Ariel: Crafts

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Ariel The

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Read me, I’m the licence! :)  Hello, and thank you for being about to try this pattern!   It was made with lots of love, and I hope it will be useful    This  pattern  was  prepared  by  me,  Chiara  Crmeon  aka  @chiacrafts,  and  kindly  shared  for  free.   Please  DO  NOT  distribute  this  pattern  yourself, and give credits to the author when posting  online.  If  you  are  going  to  share  pictures  on  instagram,  please  remember  to  insert  “Pattern  by  @chiacrafts” and use the hashtag #chiacraftspatterns.  If you don’t, I would very much like to receive a picture of your work anyway :)        For any doubt, you can contact me on Instagram! 

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@chiacrafs

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Chiara

Stitches  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

sc = single crochet  inc = increase (invisible)  dec = decrease (invisible)  dc = double crochet  ch = chain  sl = slip stitch  tr = treble crochet 

 

Indications  ★ Rounds are worked with continuous rounds technique.  ★ When working in rows, work through the entire stitch, not back loop or front loop only.   ★ The last loop to make at the end of each row is not counted between those indicated in  the  pattern.  You  should  always  add  it  if  not  specifically  indicated  (in  which  case,  I  specify “Turn directly without additional loop”).  ★ Always work from second loop from hook if not indicated otherwise   

Tips  Use stitch markers  Always count your stitches  Try working tight  If you don’t have the correct yarn size, better to go for a measure less than one more,  same for the hook size  ★ You find some tutorials in my Instagram account, I will add more  ★ ★ ★ ★

     

@chiacrafs

Material used  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

3.5 mm hook  3.0 mm hook  2.5 mm hook  2.0 mm hook  Tapestry needle  Black safety eyes  Stuffing  (poly  fiber  fill  is  the  best,  otherwise  some  cotton  wool will do)  Red yarn size 3-3.5 (hair)  Light peach yarn size 3-3.5 (skin)  Dark green yarn size 3-3.5 (tail)  Light green yarn size 3-3.5 (fins)  Purple yarn size 3-3.5 (bra)  Antique pink yarn size 2.5 (pink dress)  Pink yarn size 2.5 (pink dress)  White yarn size 2 (pink dress)  Black yarn size 3-3.5 (blue dress)  Light blue yarn size 2.5 (blue dress)  Blue yarn size 3-3.5 (blue dress) 

  Note:  you  can  vary  the  size  of  the  yarn,  but  you  should  keep  the  proportions.  The  thread  you  use  for  the  clothes  (especially  for  the  top  part)  should  be  thinner  than  the  one  you  use  for  the  body! This  is  because  the  doll is very small, so her arms and body are very thin:  cover  it  up  with  a  shirt  made  with  thick yarn would be like dressing  you up with a t-shirt as thick as a winter coat :) 

 

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Pink @chiacrafs

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Antique pink

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Body  Work  the  whole  body  (legs,  torso,  head  and  arms)  using  light  peach yarn size 3-3.5 and a 2.0 hook. 

Legs  R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)  R2-R13: 6 sc (6)  For  the  first  leg:  pull  out  the  yarn  and  cut it (leave a long tail in case  some sewing should be needed).  Instead,  after  making  the  second  leg,  don’t  cut  the  yarn;  you’ll keep  on working from there to join the legs. 

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Torso  First, we join the legs  R14:  3  sc  in  2nd  leg,  chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back side of the  chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)  R15: 16 sc (16)  Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!  R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)  R17: 18 sc (18)  R18: 18 sc (18)  R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)  Booty finished :)  Start stuffing the body  R20: 16 sc (16)  R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)  R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)  R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10)  R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)  R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) 

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Now 2 rounds for the neck  R26-R27: 6 sc (6)  Neck done, now we start the head 

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R28: 6 inc (12)  R29: 12 inc (24)  R30: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36) 

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@chiacrafs

42

At  this  point,  your  stitch  marker  is  probably  somewhere  behind the  doll’s  back  (use  the  booty  as  a reference to understand which is the  front  and  which  is  the  back).  You  must  now  make  enough  stitches  to  position  the  stitch  marker  right  on  the  left  side  of  the  doll before  moving on with the next round.   Why  this?  Because  we’re  about  to  give  an  asymmetrical  shape  to  the  head  to  make  the  face…  if  you  don't  place  the  stitch  marker  correctly,  you  risk  to  end  up  with  a  doll  facing  left,  right,  or,  even  worse, with the head completely twisted around!  If  you’re  already  close  to  the  left  side,  you  can simply continue with  R31. Otherwise, you must make these additional stitches.  If  you’re  indeed  on  the  back,  this  operation  should  not  increase  the  number  of  rounds  on  the  face  of  the  doll.  However,  if  you  were  somewhere  just  past  the  left  shoulder,  you  are  indeed  adding  one  round  to  the  face.  It  won’t  impact  the  look  of  the  doll  a  lot, you just  have  to  keep  in  mind  to  place  the  eyes  one  round  higher  than  indicated :)  [I've  made  6  additional  sc  and  placed  the  stitch  marker  on  the  last  stitch before moving on with the next round]  R31: (1 sc, inc) x 9, 18 sc (45)  R32-R33: 45 sc (45)  R34: (2 sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38)  R35-R40: 38 sc (38)  R41: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)  Stop  and  place  the  safety  eyes  between  round  35  and  round  36  8  sc  apart.  Feel free to modify the position to where you feel it suits at  best  the  personality  of  your  doll.  I  personally  think  that  placing  the  eyes very low and quite apart gives a sweeter look :)  If  you’d  like  to  make  an  embroidery  for  the  eyes,  that’s  the  best  moment  to  do  it (there’s a tutorial in my Instagram profile on how to  do it!)  R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)  R43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)  Keep stuffing while you close the head!  R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)  R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)  R46: 6 dec (6)  Cut  the  yarn  leaving  a  long  tail  for  sewing. Using a tapestry needle,  pass  the  tail  through  all the loops of the last round, and pull. Make a  knot and hide the yarn inside the doll’s body. 

Arms  R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)  R2-R10: 5 sc (5)  Then make a slip stitch, turn, make 2 sc, one more slip stitch. 

@chiacrafs

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This  should  give  you  the  curvature  for  the  shoulders.  You  can  also  decide to stop at R10.  Make 2.  At  the  end  of  each  arm,  pull  out  the  yarn  and  leave  a  long  tail  for  sewing.  Sew  the arms so that the upper part corresponds to round 23 of the  body (right below the neck).  looks sewed @ R N B In the pic it   .

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Tail and fins  Tail  Work with dark green yarn yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.0 hook  Start working in rows, you’ll join later on to work in rounds  Row1: chain 19 (18)  Row2-Row3: 18 sc (18)  Join the extremities and start working in rounds  R4: (8 sc, inc) x 2 (20)  R5: 20 sc (20)  R6: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc (18)  R7: 18 sc (18)  R8: (7 sc, dec) x 2 (16)  R9-R13: 16 sc (16)  R14: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)  R15-R17 14 sc (14)  R18: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)  R19: 12 sc (12)  R20: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)  R21: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)  R22: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)  Cut  the  yarn  leaving  a  long  tail  for  sewing. Using a tapestry needle,  pass  the  tail  through  all the loops of the last round, and pull. Make a  knot and hide the yarn inside the tail.  Switch to light green yarn yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.0 hook  Go back to R1, and make:  (chain 2, sc) x 8, 1 slip stitch, (chain 2, sc) x 9   

Fins  Work with light green yarn yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.0 hook  This part is worked in rows  R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)  R2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)  @chiacrafs

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R3: 8 sc (8)  R4: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)  R5: (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12)  R6: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)  R7: 14 sc (14)  R8: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)  R9: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)  R10: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)  R11: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)  Cut  the  yarn  leaving  a  long  tail  for  sewing. Using a tapestry needle,  pass  the  tail  through  all  the  loops  of the last round, and pull. Fasten  off,  pass  the  yarn  inside  the  fin.  Use  this  yarn  to  sew  a  bit  in  the  middle  of  the  fin  if  you  want  to  make  it thinner. Pull the yarn out on  R1 extremity. You’ll use this yarn to sew the fin to the tail.  Make two and sew them to R22 of the tail   

Little bra  Work with purple yarn yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.0 hook  First, chain 7  1 double crochet in 2nd and 3rd loop from hook.  Cut the yarn leaving a very long tail and pull it out.  Using a tapestry needle, pass it through the 4th loop of the chain  Yarn  over  in  the  5th  loop  of  the  chain,  chain  2,  make  a  double  crochet  in  the  6th  loop  of  the  chain.  Make  a  knot  between  the  two  yarn extremities left.  Put it on the doll and sew it a bit to the body so it will stay in place.   

Pink dress  Work with antique pink yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook  Start  by  working  in rows, the extremities will be joined later to work  in rounds​.  Row1: chain 21 (20)  Row2: 20 sc (20)  Row3: (1 sc, inc) x 10 (30)  Row4: 4 sc, skip 7, 8 sc, skip 7, 4 sc (16)  Row5: (7 sc, inc) x 2 (18)  Row6: 18 sc (18)  Don’t  fasten  off.  You’ll  start  from  here  to  work  both  skirt  and  petticoat. 

@chiacrafs

Petticoat  Switch to white yarn size 2 and 2.0 hook  Row7: work in back loops only 18 sc (18)  Row8: (sc, inc) x 9 (27)  Row9: (8 sc, inc) x 3 (30)  Join the extremities and start working in rounds  R10: (9 sc, inc) x 3 (33)  R11: (10 sc, inc ) x 3 (36)  R12: (11 sc, inc) x 3 (39)  R13: 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x 2, 6 sc (42)  R14: (13 sc, inc) x 3 (45)  R15: 7 sc, inc, (14 sc, inc) x 2, 7 sc (48)  R16: (15 sc, inc) x 3 (51)  R17: 8 sc, inc, (16 sc, inc) x 2, 8 sc (54)  R18: 54 sc (54)  R19: (26 sc, inc) x 2 (56)  R20: 56 sc (56)  R21: (27 sc, inc) x 2 (58)  R22: 58 sc (58)  R23: (28 sc, inc) x 2 (60)  R24: 60 sc (60)  R25: (chain 3, sc) x 60 

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Work with pink yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook  Go  back  to  row  7  of  the  dress,  where  you  worked  in  back  loops  only.  Row7: work in front loops only 18 sc (18)  Then,  proceed  with  the  same  instructions  as  for  the  petticoat.  You  should  stop  a  bit  before  the  last  round  of  the  petticoat.  As  you’re  working  with  thicker  yarn  and  hook,  it  will  get  you  several  less  rounds to do so. I stopped at R20.   

Poofy part 

@chiacrafs

the

direction

Skirt 

Work with antique pink yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook  This part is worked in Rows  Row1: chain 5 (4)  Back of the Row2: 4 inc (8)  Row3: (1 sc, inc) x 4 (12)  Row4: (2 sc, inc) x 4 (16)  Row5: 16 sc (16) 

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Fasten off.  Make  2,  and  sew  them  to  the  sides  of  the  pink  dress.  You  can then  make  a  decor  with  a  chain  using  pink yarn to cover the junctures as  I did!   

Blue dress  For  the  blue  dress,  follow  the  same  pattern  as  for  the  pink  one,  stopping at round 16.  Change yarn in this way:  R1-R3: Work with light blue yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook  R4-R6: Work with black yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.5 hook  R6-R16: WOrk with blue yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.5 hook   

Head ribbon  Work with light blue yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook  The ribbon is worked in rows  Row1: chain 9  Row2-Row18: 8 sc  Then prepare another small stripe  Row1: chain 7  Row2-Row3: 6 sc  Tie  this  smaller  stripe in the middle of the bigger stripe to create the  ribbon! 

Hair  Work with red yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.5 hook.  I  usually  make  two  levels  of  hair  wig  when  I  make  long  loose  hair.  One  is to be sewed around the head a few levels below the top, and  the  other  one  to  be  sewed  on  top  of  the  head.  I  use  this  technique  very  often  because  I  don’t  like  both  to  only  sew  the  hair  on  top  of  the  head  (the  scalp  is  visible)  and  the  shape  they  get  if  I  sew  them  completely  to  the  head.  Therefore,  I  always  make  two  layers:  the  lower  one  covers  the  scalp  and  the  second  one  gives  a  nice  bulky  effect.  If  you’re  used  to  working  elsewise  or  you’re  looking  for  a  simpler  option,  you  could  just  use  the upper layer wig. Here below I  report the complete instructions.  

@chiacrafs

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Lower layer wig  You  need  to  first  prepare  a  long  chain  (main  chain)  long  11.  You’re  going to crochet one single hair in each loop of this chain.  Each  hair  is  (chain  21,  20  sc)  repeat  in  each  of  the  10  loops  of  the  chain (starting from second loop from hook).  You  can add more hairs if needed (you must check for them to cover  the  back  of  the  head  circumference  from  3-4  stitches  from  each  eye).  To  add  some  hairs,  just  keep  working  in  series  from  the  ed  of  the  mail chain. 

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You  need  to  first  prepare  a  long  chain  (main  chain)  long  13.  You’re  going to crochet one single hair in each loop of this chain.  Each  hair  is  (chain  26,  25  sc)  repeat in the fist 11 loops of the chain  (starting  from  second  loop  from  hook).  In  the  last  loop  of  the chain,  make one longer hair (chain 35, 34 sc) .  This  last  longer  hair  is  the  one you will use to create the bangs. You  can  add  more  hairs  if  needed (you must check for them to cover the  entire head circumference).  To  add  some  hairs,  just  keep  working  in  series  from  the  end  of  the  mail chain.  Once  you’re  done,  pass  a  thread  in  all  the  loops  of  the  main  chain,  pull and make a knot. 

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Sew  the  main  chain  of  the  lower  layer  wig  at  round  42  of  the  dolls  body,  and  then  sew  each  hair of this wig to the head at round 32 of  the body.  Sew the center of the second wig on top of the head, then sew each  hair  but  the  longer  one at round 42. Roll up the longer hair to create  the bangs, and sew it to the dolls scalp and to the other hairs.    Take the upper layer wig pass a thread through   to   all the loops at the main chain Make a knot     ✓  

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