Bali & Beyond Magazine September 2009 Edition

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

BALI & BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 VOLUME 11 NO. 112

PEJENG:

BETWEEN PAKERISAN AND PETANU VISITING THE PEJENG VILLAGE HELPS ONE UNDERSTAND ANCIENT BALI AND THE BALINESE PAST THROUGH VARIOUS RELICS

BALINESE HERITAGE IN A MADURA VILLAGE DISCOVERY OF BALINESE HERITAGE IN A REMOTE VILLAGE NEAR SUMENEP ON THE MUSLIM ISLAND OF MADURA

HATCHLINGS’

HIGH HOPES +

COMPLIMENTARY

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

N E W & N E W S • I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I • C LBALI&BEYOND A S S I F I E DSEPTEMBER C O L U2009 M N 1S

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TEAMTALK

teamtalk 09.09 On the cultural side and close to the center of the island, this month we visit the primordial village of Pejeng through Craft & Culture where we admire the archeological features throughout the village and trace the stream of the rivers Pakerisan and Petanu, all of which help us understand more of ancient Bali and the Balinese past through the various relics scattered about the vicinity.

SOULFUL SEPTEMBER ‘Om Swastyastu...’ Welcome to the island and welcome to the September 2009 edition of Bali & Beyond... and a special “welcome back” to those of you who decided to visit again to further experience Bali and its surrounding islands.

For a bit of action and adventure we share with you some environmental conservation aspects. Last month we had the opportunity to travel on the Bali Hai II to Nusa Lembongan and attend a presentation by the Marine Program Director for Conservation International Indonesia and member of the Marine Turtle Specialist Group, who told us about “best practices” in preserving Indonesia’s endangered turtle population.

Visiting the island this month will present you with many memorable opportunities, as the ‘peak season’ is continuing on from the previous month’s peak holiday period. Your camera, we believe, will be an indispensable item… so keep your film ready to load, your memory cards free of space, and your forefinger ‘shutter release happy’ throughout your adventures on Bali and beyond. Last month we saw Sanur’s share of festive highlights with the fourth Sanur Village Festival. And after much anticipation and a series of question marks regarding its continuity, the Kuta Karnival has recently announced its return this month from September 19-27. Led by the Kuta Small Business Association (KSBA), this 7th annual Kuta Karnival will again ‘celebrate life’; and invites all to the various events bound for the Kuta Beach area.

The trip was part of the Bali Hai Cruises effort, working with the villages of Kurma Asih, to launch a turtle adoption and release program, which was started in July. After the presentation at Bali Hai’s Beach Club, the ‘adopters’ headed to Sunset Beach where we all had the chance to participate in giving the “Gift of Life” by bidding farewell and a safe journey to the baby turtles scuttling towards the waves. We share the experience with you in this month’s Action & Attraction. Pictured here is a token of the trip.

PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

In this the Muslim month of Ramadhan, we go Beyond Bali to feature a religious ceremony on the island of Madura. Tim Hannigan shows us his discovery of some Balinese heritage in a remote village near Sumenep on this Muslim island.

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contributors

Arvid Nicolas shoots for international travel and lifestyle magazines; when not traveling he dwells at his professional studio (obscurastudio.net)

Hary Subastian is MRA Media’s senior photographer and his portfolio spans Indonesia’s high-end fashion and lifestyle magazines.

Kathy Petite spends her time writing about travel, lifestyle, arts and culture. She also writes songs, and is writing a novel she never gets to finish.

We hope you enjoy your time and adventures. And while you’re at it, always keep safe. Enjoy! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

Tim Hannigan first came to Indonesia to surf the world class waves of Bali, but it was the potential for adventure on dry land that really got him hooked.

BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager Managing Editor

GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA [email protected] NYOMAN ARI GUNADI [email protected]

Editorial Assistant

NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI [email protected]

Editorial Advisors

A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS

Graphic Advisor Graphic Designer

WENIAR PRAMESTI PUTU PARTAJAYA [email protected] MADE SUWARDANA [email protected]

Advertising & MarComm. Manager

ANDI BEHANS [email protected]

F&A Supervisor

A.A. KETUT SUKERTI [email protected]

GA & Personnel Adm

I GEDE ADARA [email protected]

Distribution Graphic Design Intern

NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA MARIA PUTRI KHARISMA

Contributors GENTRY AMALO, HENNY DESTYARINI, GUSTRA, TIM HANNIGAN, JUSTIN LEWIS (GETTY IMAGES), JESPER MEYER, ARVID NICOLAS, KATHY PETITE, HARY SUBASTIAN Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 120 C / Lt. 2, Kuta, Bali 80361 Tel: (62-361) 764 274, 752 684 Fax: (62-361) 762 096 E-mail:[email protected] http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

Endorsed by

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

A member of

www. skal.org [email protected]

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contents 09.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... TH E SUR F... T HE CULT URE OF PARADISE AN D OVER 18,000 SURROUN DIN G ISLA N D S

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THE HOT AND SMASHING POTATO

Kathy Petite brought her inquisitive mind and appetite to a recently-opened hot and hip restaurant on the outer edge of Pacific Place’s ground floor in Jakarta. BALI&BEYOND

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CRAFT&CULTURE PEJENG: BETWEEN PAKERISAN AND PETANU Visiting the idyllic village of Pejeng, one can easily find and further understand ancient Bali and the Balinese through various centuries-old remnants and relics.

26 INVITE&INDULGE BEACHFRONT DISCOVERY The Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas stand as among the most familiar and unofficial ‘landmarks’ of the area.

PHOTO COURTESY DISCOVERY KARTIKA PLAZA HOTEL

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CAPITALCORNER

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PHOTO BY KATHY PETITE

September 2009 Volume 11 No. 112

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contents 09.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

September 2009 Volume 11 No. 112

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

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COVER Turtle Crawling Towards Ocean Photo by Justin Lewis (Getty Images)

COURTESY BILLABONG ASIA

INSPIRING THE WHOLE WORLD

Bali & Beyond meets up with four fingered South Korean pianist Hee Ah Lee before her inspiring concert.

+ 34 PONDERINGPOINT “TRULY” INDONESIA Malaysia has used Bali’s Pendet dance in its tourism promotion, and it has become a serious issue in Indonesia.

12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island. 54 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali.

COURTESY PHOTO

36 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS HATCHLINGS’ HIGH HOPES Bali Hai Cruises joined forces with Kurma Asih village foundation and Conservation International through a new turtle ‘adoption and release’ initiative on the island of Lembongan.

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COURTESY BALI HAI CRUISES

BEYONDBALI BALINESE HERITAGE IN A MADURA VILLAGE The discovery of Balinese heritage on a Muslim island reveals a people proud of their unique heritage.

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58 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events. 62 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.

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NEW&NEWS

TEJAKULA TRIPLE

PHOTO BY GENTRY AMALO

The vice regent of the Buleleng regency, Made Arga Pynatih, recently introduced sea management zones on the Taoka Coast in the village of Tejakula. This collaborative effort between groups of local fishermen and the local village administration, together with the local government and related parties including Reef Check Indonesia, set up zones that will be part of a chain along Tejakula’s beaches. The area is approximately 1.3 kilometers across and 180 meters from the coast, with three zones named the Core Zone, the Support Zone, and the Utilization Zone. Recent social activities highlighted its introduction. Reef Check Indonesia, www.reefcheck.or.id

ASIAN INSIGHTS PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

Editions Didier Millet introduces The Sultan and the Mermaid Queen by Paul Spencer Sochaczewski, a collection of essays that describe rarely written-about Asian people, places and events. From the last elephant hunter of Vietnam, Alfred Russell Wallace, to the Sultan of Yogyakarta’s love affair with a Mermaid Queen. www.edmbooks.com

BEYOND ACRONYM Indonesian traditional cosmetics producer Martha Tilaar (pictured center) launched her new book Bali S(hui) P(ani) A(merta): Secrets of Holistic Healing on the Island of the Gods, at the Periplus bookstore of the Mal Bali Galeria in Kuta. In her 200-page book, Tilaar writes about ancient Balinese medical treatments that use water as the main ingredient. The book was jointly written by Tilaar, Balinese shamans and local healers. Periplus Bookstore, (0361) 751-197; www.periplus.co.id

APARTMENT-STYLE O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger is the largest all-suite luxury resort in Legian. The apartment-style hotel, managed by Hawaiian-based hotel operator Outrigger Hotels & Resorts, comprises five levels housing 112 spacious contemporary style suites. The C Bistro & Lounge dishes up Mediterranean and Asian cuisine, while the Flying Fish opens for dinner serving fresh seafood. O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger Jl. Arjuna 88X, Legian (0361) 737-400; www.outrigger.com 12

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COURTESY PHOTO

COURTESY PHOTO

ROOMY! Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa recently appointed Mr. Siswo Susetyo as Rooms Division Manager of the 381room hotel. From his first role at Sahid Bali Seaside Hotel, to several positions with Bali Hilton International, Mr. Siswo has continued to gain extensive experience through roles in the Rooms Division throughout Bali. In 2003, Mr. Siswo was appointed Director of Rooms of Hard Rock Hotel until 2007, when he joined Nikko Bali Resort & Spa. Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, (0361) 771-210

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NEW&NEWS

IN THE HILLS, AT THE BAY

COURTESY PHOTO

Four Seasons Resorts Bali introduces new highlights at its Jimbaran and Sayan resorts. Jimbaran Bay’s open-air signature restaurant Taman Wantilan has recently been transformed into an authentic Italian ristorante. Milanese native Senior Chef de Partie Loris Pistillo experiments with Mediterranean flavors and Italian culinary secrets while the ambience remains tropical Balinese. At Sayan, “A Day in the Life of a Balinese Farmer” is a unique experience in which guests will learn about farming, planting rice seeds, enjoying a river spa ritual, and tasting a traditional ‘Nasi Campur’ lunch. The spas at both Four Seasons Resorts Bali at Jimbaran Bay and Sayan have recently launched 100% chemical free treatments including the new signature “Sodashi Water Valley Treatment”. Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay; (0361) 756-988; bali.queenstandoor.com

InterContinental Bali Resort welcomes Adam McDonald as Resort Manager. Adam assumes overall responsibility for the operations of the 418-room property. The Australian born and active Australian Rules Football enthusiast has spent his entire career working in the luxury hotel sector, and joins InterContinental Bali Resort straight from a 4-year stint as Resident Manager at InterContinental Sydney. InterContinental Bali Resort (0361) 701-888 www.bali.intercontinental.com

COURTESY PHOTOS

AUSSIE RULES?

COU RTESY PHOTOS

Bali Dynasty Resort announced its completed renovation of 125 Deluxe and Family Rooms located in two wings of the hotel. Each room has been fully modernized and equipped with new furnishings and luxury facilities, with en-suite bathrooms completely refitted. Family Rooms are located on the ground floor with views and access to the garden and pool via an outdoor terrace, enabling the kids to play outside. Each is designed to accommodate up to five people in two spacious sleeping areas, separated by a half partition wall. All bathrooms are wheelchair accessible and are complemented by well-lit wall mirrors, a thoughtful array of amenities and non-slip floors. This latest renovation project is part of a multi-million dollar makeover to Bali Dynasty Resort over the last year, including the transformation of the lobby and the stylish new Sen5es international restaurant. Bali Dynasty Resort, Jl Kartika, Tuban, South Kuta, (0361) 752-403 www.balidynasty.com

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COURTESY PHOTO

TRANSFORMED...

FOOD ARCHITECT Padma Resort Bali’s Japanese Chef, Shoichi Shiraiwa, is ready to provide the best Japanese culinary treats for guests. He has spent many years in the Unites States working for New York’s Sushi Taro and several Japanese restaurants in Florida. He also has extensive experience in Japan and the US with building and construction projects. These skills determine his attention to detail, thus assuring the quality of his Japanese dishes. Padma Resort Bali at Legian, Jl. Padma No. 1, Legian (0361) 752-111; www.padmahotels.com

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NEW&NEWS

ON THE SOUTH END As this goes to press, Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence is launching as the newest hotel on Jalan Wana Segara at the southern end of TO

Kuta. Conceived as a contemporary sanctuary just a 50 meter stroll SY PH O

from the beach, the Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence features a total of outlets including the Sugar & Spice coffee shop, the Ruby Tuesday lobby lounge, the Lighthouse rooftop restaurant and the Tropical Bliss

SIGN ON

pool bar. Other facilities include spa & body treatments, a business center, a swimming pool and a kid’s pool and kids club.

C O U R TE

209 rooms on 5 floors, each with full amenities and a range of F&B

Balinese surf star and all round nice guy Rahtu Suargita has again signed with world leading surf brand Billabong. In his own words, Billabong has supported him not only in surfing, but has also given him a chance to expand himself in other fields such as video editing while also providing the platform to show them to the world. “I really appreciate that,” he said. Billabong also couldn’t be more happy about it. “We’re so stoked to have Rahtu on the team again,” said Peter Thew, Billabong South East Asia Marketing Manager. “He’s starting to really clock some results on the Indonesian tour and has nailed some amazing shots this season. He’s a great asset to Billabong and definitely one of the stars on the SE Asian surf scene.” www.billabong.com/asia

Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence, Jalan Wana Segara, Kuta

PHOTO COURTESY ASTON KUTA HOTEL & RESIDENCE

(0361) 754-999; www.astonkuta.com

KARNIVAL RETURNS COURTESY PHOTO

After much anticipation, the Kuta Karnival returns September 1927. Led by the Kuta Small Business Association (KSBA), the 7th Kuta Karnival will again celebrate life, with the organizing committee excited to invite all to the fabulous events happening on Kuta Beach. The Opening Ceremony, Kite Festival, Traditional Sunset Dance, Bali Hotels Association Bartender Competition, Surfer Girl’s Big Splash Surfing Days, the Bali Food Festival, a Closing Ceremony & Parade and many other highlights on the agenda. Check website for updates. Kuta Small Business Association (KSBA), (0361) 758-995 www.kutakarnival.com

PHOTO BY HENNY DESTYARINI

GOLFER’S CHOICE

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Nirwana Bali Golf Club was awarded The Choice Golf Course – Overseas 2009 from The Golfers’ Choice Awards 2009 presented by Golf Vacations Hong Kong Magazine in July in Hong Kong. The Golfers’ Choice Awards covers three categories, namely “Golf & Travel”, “Consumer Brands”, and “Equipment” respectively. Golfers’ Choice Awards sets up a platform for golf lovers to express their preference and choice. An enjoyable golfing experience comes not just from a good-conditioned golf course, but also from many other environmental and human-related factors such as ease of travel, the availability of amusements for non-golfers nearby the golf course, the golf ambience in the neighbourhood of the golf course, etc. For most recreational golfers, the most important thing is playing happily and playing healthily. Le Méridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort (0361) 815-900, www.lemeridien.com/bali

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NEW&NEWS

SENSORY ESCAPES Maya Ubud Resort & Spa announces the introduction of the Tropical Rejuvenation spa care line by Pevonia Botanica. The Spa at Maya in conjunction with Pevonia Botanica has carefully created five new spa treatments using these tropical spa care products. The Tropical Rejuvenation range includes three facial treatments; Rescue & Repair Facial, Detailing F acial for Him, and Hydration Infusion Facial, and two body treatments; Tropical Escape Papaya-Pineapple Crème Fraiche Wrap and its anti cellulite Slimming Green Coffee Body Wrap. The Spa at Maya’s well-known signature “Riverside Special” as well as many other original spa treatments are also available. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa, (0361) 977-888; www.mayaubud.com

GRILL IT, JAPANESE WAY PHOTOS COURTESY MAYA UBUD AND PEVONIA BOTANICA

Canang Bali Yakiniku Restaurant opened recently, enriching the culinary options in the Kuta area. This grillroom opened in early August and is managed by Wayan Suanda. His previous experience at The Legian Bali built up his confidence for running this business. This restaurant not only offers genuine Japanese yakiniku but also continental cuisine. In general, Yakiniku uses beef, pork, and innards and is grilled just like barbeque. In a yakiniku restaurant, guests will choose their own ingredients and grill their meat choices on an built-in stove at their table. To enjoy charcoal grilled meat, they need to first dip the meat in tare sauce. Canang Bali Restaurant; Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 21, Kuta (0361) 766-203, www.canangbalirestaurant.com

KERAMAS KING

COURTESY PHOTO

Dean Bowen (Australia) won the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) Grade 5-Rated Billabong Pro Junior Bali, the only ASP rated event for 2009 in Indonesia, in late July. Held in magnificent surf over a four day period at the famous Keramas Rivermouth on the east coast of Bali, Bowen’s powerful backhand on-face surfing proved too strong for Teale Vanner (Australia) in a one sided final. Bowen’s top two rides of a 7 and a 7.5 and final total of 14.5 eclipsed Vanner’s two wave total of 7.5 for the win. www.aspaustralasia.com, www.isctourcom

C O U R TE

SY PH O

TOS

STAR KIDS

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The St. Regis Bali Resort in Bali, comprising the St. Regis Bali Resort, the Westin Resort Nusa Dua, the Laguna, and the Le Meridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort proudly launched the ‘Anak Bintang Campaign’ in support of the community and children of Bali. This first ever campaign in Indonesia provides children in Bali with motorcycle helmets for safe use on the roads. The four hotels have come together to provide initial funding, and then will seek to raise funds through public contributions. www.starwoodhotels.com

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CRAFT&CULTURE

PEJENG: BETWEEN PAKERISAN AND PETANU

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Tracing down the streams of the Pakerisan and Petanu, and visiting the idyllic village of Pejeng, one can easily find and further understand ancient Bali and the Balinese through various centuries-old remnants and relics.

Opposite page: a Beji, a place for holy water at Pura Pengukur-Ukur temple; right: a cave at the temple where Kebo Iwa supposedly meditated.

W

ater is the most

have been found in that area, and most

find accounts of natural disasters such as

fundamental

are kept in a village named Pejeng.

earthquakes, floods, volcanic eruptions

element in human

Ancient Balinese archaeological

and landslides that may indeed have

life. Humans

sites range from Tirta Empul, a bathing

thrive when

place in Tampaksiring, to the Durga

abundant water

Kutri temple in the village of Kutri. But

disappeared, not only by natural causes

supplies exist, so it’s no wonder that large

all of it is basically centralized in Pejeng,

but also possibly by human factors and

communities develop in areas rich in water.

a village believed to be Bali’s central

war. When one dynasty wins over the

Thus many cultures have begun by the

kingdom until the rise of Asta Asura

previous one, they will usually move the

riverside.

Ratna Bumi Banten, who was the last

capital city and destroy the old palace,

Many ancient kingdoms were located near

covered up such a site. That important site may have

king of classical Bali before its fall due

as is believed to be the symbol of the

the banks of a river or in coastal areas. Egypt

the Majapahit empire’s expansion in the

previous dynasty’s hegemony. But the

developed by the river Nile. Indian culture

14th century.

things that cannot be disturbed are the

started on the banks of the Indus. Sriwijaya,

In regards to the government, people

temples, the sacred places of devotion.

one of Indonesia’s largest historical kingdoms

will instinctively imagine a palace as the

in the 7th century, ruled from the side of the

king’s house. But after looking around

under Hinduism they lived as many sects,

Before the Balinese beliefs were united

Musi. And on our island here, ancient Bali

Pejeng or going through the river’s

namely Siwa, Budha, Bhairawa, and

was centralized between the Pakerisan and

streams, you soon realize there is no

Wisnu. People used statues as media

Petanu rivers. Many archaeological relics

such relic. According to history, we

to represent their gods and deities and BALI&BEYOND

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PHOTOS BY MADE SUWARDANA

Pura Penataran Sasih, where the nekara and ancient statues are kept. A Sangku Sudhamala from 1329 A.D. kept at Pura Pusering Jagad. Opposite page: the ‘Arjuna Metapa’ site.

placed them in temples. This established

representative in Bali, as Kebo Parud was

Based on Hindu belief the center is Siwa,

the temple as the institution that keeps

also a Bhima Bhairawa adherent.

and as the place devoted to Siwa you

everything together over time. Over time,

Bhairawa is a religion that focuses on

the temples boasted another function - a

devoting Durga as the Goddess of Death

(shrine monument). The 1.2 meter phallus

silent witness of history.

and of the Underworld. Every devotion

is symbol of Siwa, while the 0.8 meter Yoni

related to Durga is described with demonic

symbolizes the feminine counterpart, in the

statues and archaeological relics in them.

symbols or sinister properties, such as

form of a vulva.

Entering the village, there is a temple next

scary facial features or sharp tusks. Many

to the Museum of Archaeology named the

statues like that are found in this temple.

Pejeng has many old temples with

Pura Kebo Edan. In it is a gigantic 3.6-

Only a few meters from Pura Kebo

can find Lingga and Yoni at the pelinggih

When Lingga meets Yoni, fertility and life results. The temple guard says many infertile couples come to the temple,

meter Bima statue that is described as

Edan is Pura Pusering Jagat. The name

begging for a child and so pray in front of

dancing on a stack of skulls. This statue is

describes it as the center of the world.

the shrine.

also known as Bhairawa and hails from the

This temple is one of six important temples

13th century, during Kertanegara’s rule of

in Bali and it is located in the axis of the

Sudamala, a large stone vase used to hold

the Singosari Kingdom in East Java. When

island, hence its name ‘puser’ (meaning

holy water. This vase has reliefs which tell

he ruled, he placed Kebo Parud as his

center) and ‘jagat’ (meaning the world).

about the world’s rotation conducted by

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SEPTEMBER 2009

Another relic in the temple is Sangku

the deities and demons. The rotation is

people believed it was a moon that fell

done to achieve amerta (or holy water),

from the sky. A folk tale tells that a long,

which promotes immortality. This vase

long time ago the earth had two moons,

dates from 1251 Saka or 1329 A.D.

so the night was as bright as if it were day.

Besides the vase, there are many

This caused thieves to restrict carrying out

statues that can be found in this temple.

their activities at night. Then one day a

These relics are similar to those in Pura

powerful thief flew up and urinated on the

Penataran Sasih, another temple about

moon, which made it lose its gleam, and

500 meters from the Pusering Jagad

subsequently it fell down to earth. That

temple. The ancient stone statues stand

moon fell in Pejeng; the local people kept

neatly in the temple. But there is one

the “moon” in the temple and worshipped

special building with special relics, relics

it. The temple’s name, Penataran Sasih,

that are not made up of stone but made

means ‘place of the moon’.

of bronze. One is the nekara or kettle drum, made

Archaeologists estimate that the kettle drum is a medium for ancestral worship

during the bronze age by the Dongson

and is also a tool for praying for rain. One

culture around 2,000 years ago. This kettle

thing that is certain about the bronze relic

drum is 1.86 meters in diameter and it has

is that it is the largest bronze kettledrum

a unique story behind it. The surface is

found in South East Asia.

round just like a full moon and so the local

Archaeologists estimate that this kettle drum was a medium for ancestral worship and was also a tool for praying for rain. One thing for sure is that it is the largest bronze kettledrum found in Southeast Asia.

Continuing on the trail of the Balinese

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in Pejeng. All relics such as statues or temples are kept where they belong and are kept by the local people who care for them from generation to generation. A staff member at the museum said that the relics are not moved to the museum but are left for the locals to keep. Because the relics have functions other than as mediums of devotion. What the government body does is to build the data and protect the sites. One such example includes a building for the Arjuna Metapa site in the middle of a rice field near the Kebo Edan temple. There is a statue of Arjuna with two of his servants and some fairies who tried to tempt him. Arjuna is a prince from the Mahabharata epic. In Java, this epic was

Many relics are found not only in temples but also in the middle of ricefields.

A temple next to the Museum of Archaeology is Pura Kebo Edan. In it is a gigantic 3.6meter Bima statue that is described as dancing on a stack of skulls. past, go to the Pura Pengukur-ukur in Pejeng Kelod. In this temple is found an

the Indonesia archipelago), including Bali. Behind that temple there is a gateway

re-written through the Arjuna Wiwaha book by Mpu Kanwa, dating back to the

inscription that dates back from 1116 Saka

with ancient stone steps named Goa

9th century. At the Arjuna Metapa site you

or 1194 A.D.

Garba. Below the gateway there is a hole

can see that Arjuna is praying in order to

carved in a riverbank. It was considered

acquire a magical weapon.

This temple has a tight connection with the Prime Minister of the King of Bali. The Balinese consider Kebo Iwa to

Kebo Iwa’s meditating place. The shrine is just beside the river, so

Tracing the streams of Pakerisan and Petanu, and visiting the Pejeng village,

be a Balinese hero for his patriotic action

when you stand in front of the shrine, you

helps us to understand ancient Bali and the

against Gajah Mada, the leader of the

will clearly hear the sound of water. It is an

Balinese through these various relics. ■

Majapahit troops, with his mission to

ideal place to meditate.

Text and photos by (Pejeng native)

dominate Nusantara (the other name for 24

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

There are no archaeological excavations

Ni Luh Dian Purniawati

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

25

INVITE&INDULGE

BEACHFRONT DISCOVERY

L

ocated on the popular beachfront near the southern part of Kuta, the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas stand as among the most familiar and unofficial ‘landmarks’ of the area. The hotel offers a mix of 318 ocean view rooms, suites and luxury beachfront villas, all surrounding a splendid pool and spread over 8 hectares of tropical gardens. The villas form only one of the many

choices at the resort. More familiar are its Superior rooms, located on the second up to the fourth floor along the hotel’s perimeter, boasting comfortable and spacious rooms with garden views. Its Ocean View rooms are centered on the resort’s garden and main pool, and are uniquely angled for ocean, garden and pool views with their private triangle-shaped balconies. The Private Garden and Pool rooms in the main building have direct access from the private balcony to a private garden. Families may opt for the Garden View Family or Ocean Front rooms. The exclusive and stylish Discovery Beach Front Villas are very spacious. They each offer 24-hour butler service, air conditioning, and access to all the 5-star facilities of the hotel. The villas each have two master bedrooms, a kitchen, a luxurious bathroom,

26

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

The Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas is located on the popular beachfront of the southern part of Kuta, and stands as among the most familiar and unofficial landmarks of the area.

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

27

The recently renovated beachfront villas are perfect for honeymooners and also for the ultimate seaside escape.

an outdoor tropical shower and a private

carte international menu all day as well

plunge pool overlooking the sea.

as a weekly themed nightly dinner each

The most spacious Discovery Beach

reasonably priced Asian restaurants in

party of up to 20 people, making the

Bali, serves sushi and sashimi and la carte

precious moment even more memorable,

Asian dishes such as the special Grilled

matched with impressive decorations and

Mahi-Mahi steak and Sop Buntut Goreng,

combined with magnificent views, excellent

the Indonesian favorite of ox-tail soup.

food and service.

La Cucina serves up Italian, with pasta,

The recently renovated villas are perfect for honeymooners and also for the

The KulKul Bar is where you can swim to in the main pool and grab light snacks,

have recently been upgraded to a very

pizzas, sandwiches, refreshing beverages

high standard, and this includes a free WiFi

and cocktails. The Sunset Lounge, located

Internet connection.

in the lobby, offers pool and ocean

at The Pond Café, which serves an ala SEPTEMBER 2009

persons.

the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas

the biggest breakfast buffets on the island

BALI&BEYOND

pizzas and light meals and seats up to 68

ultimate seaside escape. All the rooms at

Dining choices abound. Enjoy one of

28

evening. Teppan Noodle, one of the most

Front Villa can even be used for a wedding

views and serves light snacks, assorted beverages and cocktails. The ‘Green Globe Benchmark’ status

The hotel offers a mix of 318 ocean view rooms, suites and luxury beachfront villas, all surrounding a splendid pool and spread over 8 hectares of tropical gardens.

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

29

According to the hotel staff, sea turtles regularly come ashore at the sandy beach in front of the hotel and the villas. To give them a better chance of survival on the busy beach, the eggs are relocated to the nearby hatchery. and Best Practice results achiever is on its The resort has a wide choice of restaurants and sporting facilities as well as business and meeting facilities, and it shares its vicinity with the namesake grand Shopping Mall and beachfront amphitheater.

According to the hotel staff, sea turtles

path to securing a sustainable future for

regularly come ashore along Kuta Beach

the environment. The first large scale solar

at the sandy beach in front of the hotel and

hot water system in Bali has just started

the villas. To give them a better chance of

operating here.

survival on the busy beach, the eggs are

And recently, together with the Kuta Beach Sea Turtles Conservation, the

relocated to the nearby hatchery. Guests at the Discovery Kartika Plaza

Discovery Kartika Plaza started its ‘Protect

should be ready for surprises, as they may

The Sea Turtles’ program in late July,

well stumble upon ‘discoveries’ such as

releasing 90 baby sea turtles on the

these. ■

hotel’s beachfront. This environmental

Text by Nyoman Ari Gunadi

event is planned to be held regularly

Courtesy photos

at the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel in cooperation with the Kuta Beach

30

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

■ Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas,

Sea Turtles Conservation during “turtle

Bali, Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta

season”, to help create awareness and

Beach, (0361) 751-067

protect the sea turtles.

www.discoverykartikaplaza.com

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

31

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

Inspiring the

Whole World

Following her inspiring concert in Jakarta, four-fingered pianist Hee Ah Lee visited Bali for a holiday as well as to hold a charity concert on August 14 in support of UNICEF, hosted by the Westin Resort Nusa Dua.

W

hen we were

its special program, we thought, “ sure

fingers on each hand, no legs below the

notified that The

we’ll make it there... it might be Steinway’s

kneecaps, and mild brain damage.

Westin Resort

Adam Gyorgy yearning to come back

Nusa Dua was

to the island again with another of his

Sun, started her on the piano to train her

extending an

impressive recitals”.

hands, as she couldn’t even hold a pencil.

effort to raise

But our interest grew by leaps and

When she was 7 her mother, Woo Kap

Indonesia, amidst it August

funds for the Check Out for Children

bounds when it was revealed that this

Independence Day celebrations, had the

program (a global partnership between

extraordinary guest was the four-fingered

honor of having Hee Ah perform in Jakarta

Starwood Hotels & Resorts and UNICEF)

pianist Hee Ah Lee. Hee Ah Lee (born on

together with an orchestra of disabled

and that The Westin Resort Nusa Dua

July 9, 1985 in Seoul, Korea) was born with

children, to the awe of the audience.

was to invite an extraordinary pianist to

severe disabilities, including having only two

And following her inspiring concert in Indonesia’s capital city, the four-fingered pianist visited Bali for a holiday as well as to hold a charity concert on August 14 in support of UNICEF, hosted by the Westin Resort Nusa Dua. Shortly thereafter, Bali & Beyond’s Nyoman Ari Gunadi secured a brief meeting with this inspiring persona and her mother at the resort’s Club Lounge. Mild-mannered and smiling cheerfully as she entered on her wheelchair, assisted by her manager and mother, she immediately dispersed a unique aura throughout the lounge. And as soon she was assisted on to the sofa, she pressed her palms together and said the Balinese welcoming phrase “Om Swastiastu” fluently - to everyone’s

32

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

Surely I will! When the concert evening came, she performed 10 compositions, including the promised “Fantasia Impromptu”, a simple example of the achievement made by Hee. And the surprise followed after, as Hee not only could play the piano, but could sing as well. Sun came to the stage to talk together with Hee in between her compositions, and joked that her daughter’s singing was “not as good as her piano playing.” But the audience in general considered her voice “unique”. Another surprise was that she sang the heartfelt Indonesian song “Bunda” fluently in Indonesian, while her piano partner Lee Chun Hee played the grand piano. “Bunda”, meaning “mother” in Indonesian, was her tribute of respect and love to her mother, the “figure in the background” of her success. The bond surprise. In broken English, with the aid

just like a ten-fingered performance, I could

between them was ever apparent, and the

of an interpreter, we engaged in a warm

only play with my fingers until a special

ambience of love was reflected through the

conversation with Hee Ah.

pedal was brought up. Since then I have

touching song, easily bringing tears to some

had four different piano teachers.

of the audience’s eyes - but not for too long.

been on the island for a while already!

What’s your favorite piece?

is magnificent. Spontaneous applause

How do you find it so far?

Chopin’s Fantasie Impromptu. I started

filled the air many times, together with

(Slightly giggling) Thank you. Just picking up

to learn when I was 12, and it took me 5

laughter and cheers as she and her

some phrases. Matur sukseme... (“Thank

years and 6 months to master. Practiced

mother exchanged jokes through their brief

you” in Balinese). It’s a beautiful place,

10 hours a day. This piece became an

presentations.

certainly different from Jakarta. I’m enjoying it!

inspiration of hope for listeners.

Hello Hee Ah, you sound as if you’ve

Hee Ah is a cheerful soul, and her heart

Hee Ah even brought a wave of laughter to the audience as she rendered her

Sun, tell us a bit about how you got

You obviously have many fans

interpreter short of words, and when she

Hee Ah on the piano?

worldwide. Who are you a fan of?

jokingly called Andry, the Westin host and

When I started her learning the piano at

Yes. Back in 2005 I had the wonderful

MC that evening, “MC the handsome”.

the age of 6, no piano teacher would see

opportunity to perform together with

her so she practiced with me instead. At

Richard Clayderman through “A Ballad for

bring hope and inspiration to the world

first she couldn’t even tap a beat with her

14 Fingers”. I’m a big fan of him. My other

in appreciation for life, bringing home

left hand while her right hand played the

idols are Mother Theresa and Gandhi.

the message that you can never judge a

melody. It took her six months just to be

Hee Ah Lee and Sun continue to

person by their size or the limitations of

able to pick up and play the “Butterfly”, a

What can we expect to see at your

their physique, but rather by the magnitude

Korean folksong.

concert, “Dream the Impossible

of their heart. ■

Dream” later? Hee Ah, how do you recall that

Just like its theme, I wish to inspire all to

experience?

make their dreams come true. I’ll be playing

Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali

Even though I practiced rigorously so that

10 piano compositions... and there’ll be a

(0361) 771-906; www.westin.com/bali

my four-fingered performance could sound

bit of surprise... Be there, okay?

www.heeah.com BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

33

PONDERINGPOINT

“TRULY” INDONESIA

R

Malaysia has used Bali’s Pendet dance in its tourism promotion, and it has become a serious issue in Indonesia.

ecently Malaysia has been using the Pendet dance

subject. Previously, the neighboring country has ‘claimed’ several

from Bali in some of their tourism promotional

others such as the Reog dance from Ponorogo in East Java,

material. This has now come to the attention of

the song Rasa Sayange from Maluku, the Hombo Batu tradition,

the Balinese, as previously there had been ‘claims’

the Folaya dance from Nias Island in North Sumatera, and the

over several Indonesian cultural heritage subjects

Angklung orchestra from West Java.

taken by the neighboring country.

This has caused various reactions from society. However, when

Many people who decide to go for their holidays to Bali are

it comes to a conclusion, nearly all express their disapproval of

attracted by its unique culture and traditions. One of the myriad

Malaysia’s act. Although the society has grown restless from the

of Balinese dances that are quite popular is the Pendet. In the

matter, it is indeed a bilateral matter between two countries so it

beginning the dance functioned as a ceremonial opening dance,

must be addressed by the government.

but later evolved into a secular function as a welcoming dance for important arriving guests.

On August 22, several social elements in Bali voiced their concerns. They expressed that this matter must not be ignored.

Professor Wayan Dibia from the Indonesian Arts Institute

They were right in that eventually all Indonesia’s heritage might as

in Bali, who is an avid performing artist himself, explained that

well become Malaysia’s. Meanwhile Malaysia reaps short and long-

the Pendet came from the tradition of ‘memendet’, which is to

term profits, and eventually everyone would consider Indonesia a

mark the opening of a religious

loser, as they would regard Malaysia as the ‘bona fide’ owner due

ceremony. Typical attributes

to its incessant promotion overseas. It is almost a rule that history is

include heeling movements and

made by those who have access and doctrinize their version of the

the pressing of palms together as

truth continuously to people until they no longer know the real truth.

though in worship. Also typical is the act of sprinkling and tossing flower petals. This dance later inspired the birth

and exactly when the creative process took place. Logically those having the right to patent something are the creators, thus the

been surprised by the headlines about the use of the Pendet dance as part of Malaysia’s tourism

government has no right to patent it. Malaysia, one of the countries that borders Indonesia, has indeed recently launched aggressive tourism promotions. Their motto “Malaysia Truly Asia” tries to show that they have a multiethnic (Asian) population that lives side by side in harmony and have contributed much to the Malaysia cultural scene.

promotion. By doing so, it

It is with no doubt that Malaysia has close historical ties with

is regarded that Malaysia

Indonesia. Both countries derive from the same Malay linguistic

‘has’ the Pendet and is inviting people to come and view the performance in their country. Malaysia owns the Pendet? This claiming of Indonesian culture by Malaysia is not a new SEPTEMBER 2009

local society has no idea who created the dance in the first place

creation’ dances. the Balinese have

BALI&BEYOND

people’s heritage. Due to its communal cultural nature, even the

of other ‘new Yet lately

34

Yet the matter then faces the fact of who must register the patent for this dance, and all of the cultural items that are a

family, and in the 14th century Malaysia (or at that time known as Malacca) was under the Majapahit Kingdom’s sovereignty. But this in no way means that what Indonesia possesses also becomes Malaysia’s. Both countries must uphold and respect sovereignty, ownership, and good bilateral relations. Some people have jokingly expressed that hopefully the day will never come when the motto changes to “Malaysia Truly Indonesia”, as too much Indonesian culture and heritage is claimed by the country, because in the end it would result in harsh relations between the two countries and a negative impact on tourism in the long run. ■ Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, photo by Gustra

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

35

ACTION&ATTRACTION

Bali Hai Cruises has joined forces with the Kurma Asih village foundation and Conservation International through a new turtle ‘adoption and release’ initiative on the island of Lembongan.

T

he invitation came from Bali Hai’s Director of Operations, Poldi Ridge, as they were underway with their marvelous new Turtle Release Cruise. The company, to the salute of other members in the tourism industry and

the environmental conservation community, now includes this form of turtle conservation in its tour packages, combining a fun leisure activity, social responsibility and environmental awareness all in one. And so we gladly accepted the invitation to attend one fine Tuesday in early July. Travel agents, members of the press and turtle admirers gathered in the morning at Bali’s Benoa Harbor, anxious to climb aboard the Bali Hai II to Nusa Lembongan.

HATCHLINGS’

High Hopes

A cute Olive Ridley hatchling instinctively hurrying toward the sea. Opposite page: waves await at Sunset Beach on Lembngan Island.

But before getting on board, we listened to a brief presentation on what we were to expect on the island. Present were Bali Hai’s Director of Sales Pande Ardika as well as Ketut Sarjana Putra, the Marine Program Director for Conservation International Indonesia and a member of the Marine

Turtle Specialist Group which would also be the key speaker at the main presentation on Lembongan. We then took off in the Bali Hai II and arrived “land-ahoy!” in less than an hour. However, the catamaran had to transfer the excited load of passengers to its fun-filled marine activity pontoon first, where we got to have a half an hour go at a semi-submersible tour, admiring the beauty

36

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

and aquatic life under the surface of

of Conservation International explained

Lembongan’s waters.

to the attentive participants about this

expansion possibilities. Like other sea turtles, Olive Ridleys will

On the pontoon’s deck were large

“best practice” in preserving Indonesia’s

swim across large bodies of water, mating

green fiberglass containers that contained

endangered turtle population. With past

and exploring the world, yet the females

some cute Olive Ridley hatchlings, where

efforts to save more turtles plagued by

will always come back to Perancak Beach

the guests could have their first glimpse

a lack of funds, Ketut is hopeful that the

– which has the largest turtle population

of the little creatures. Pak Ardika first

donations from Bali Hai Cruises and their

in Indonesia – for nesting. Currently the

explained a bit about the specimens to

future passengers will enable even more

Kurma Asih Foundation has 364 nests in

us, then our Adopt a Turtle group were

turtles to be saved in the future.

its conservatory, with an average 80 eggs

led onto a motorized long boat to be transferred to the island. Crossing to the island in no time,

Bali Hai Cruises has worked together with the villages of Kurma Asih in this

per nest. Ketut explained that Indonesia has 134

initiative through an adoption and release

nesting spots in its beaches, with Green

refreshments and welcome drinks

method. So far it has adopted over

Sea Turtles being the majority species.

awaited before we continued towards a

a hundred nests with 300 hatchlings

Globally, the sea turtle population was

shelter where Pak Ketut Sarjana Putra

released, and is looking for further

missing from the world for 45 years. BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

37

... a very worthy program and one which all visitors to the small island should participate in. For just US$10 you can adopt and release a baby turtle - and name it... and kiss it goodbye... - and memories will last forever.

Sunset Beach, on the southeastern edge of Nusa Lembongan, was the chosen location where participants had the chance to participate in releasing their ‘adopted’ baby turtles back into the sea. The new highlight adds to the existing activities at the Bali Hai Beach Club.

Perancak Beach in Bali however, had a 30-year gap before their return. It is due to these many missing years that most of sea turtles species are listed as endangered. Bali also has the somewhat shocking history of eating turtle meat. And according to Ketut, this led to huge complaints from many countries around the world. And it was around 20 years ago that Ketut decided to turn his full attention to sea turtle conservation. “Among my main goals was to reform the Balinese mindset about the use of sea turtles as food, rather than being repressive. Fortunately it turned out to be a successful effort.” In 1996, Ketut met Wayan Tirtan, a former sea turtle hunter and the eventual founder of the Kurma Asih Foundation. “Back when I started the whole 38

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

PHOTO BY ARVID NICOLAS

campaign, there were about 30,000 turtles

carapace is a dark olive green in color with

being slaughtered yearly. Now, there are

a yellowish underside, hence the name.

almost none,” said Ketut. However, some

When they are young, Olive Ridley

places on the island still offer illegal sea

turtles have black-colored shells, which are

turtle satay and lawar, off-the-record.

actually scales to protect themselves as

After the inspiring presentation at Bali

they live around reefs.

Hai’s Beach Club, which opened new

At the age of three, the color of the

horizons among the participants, the

penyu sisik semu will turn grayish. And by

‘adopters’ hopped into the bemos owned

the age of 10 they will turn brownish and

and operated by the village community

totally lose their scales.

and headed towards Sunset Beach,

It is believed that the Olive Ridley

a place on the southeastern edge of

(Lepidochelys olivacea), also known in

Nusa Lembongan that was the chosen

Indonesian as penyu sisik semu literally

location for guests to have the chance to

‘psuedo-fish-scale turtle’, return to nest on

participate in releasing their ‘adopted’ baby

the same beach where they hatched. Olive

turtles back into the sea.

Ridleys are omnivorous, feeding on crabs,

Olive Ridleys are lightly built turtles that

shrimp, rock lobsters, sea grass, algae,

have an average adult weight of around

snails, fish, sessile, pelagic tunicates and

50 kg. They have a high-domed shell with

small invertebrates. They are sometimes

a carapace length of only 70 cm. The

seen feeding on jellyfish in shallow waters BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

39

PHOTO BY HARY SUBASTIAN

COURTESY PHOTO

PHOTO BY JESPER MEYER

Besides the new turtle release highlight, Bali Hai Cruises has the fun-filled Reef Cruise pontoon, a semi-submersible to view the beauty of the underwater realm, a private ‘Castaway Cruise’ onboard its Aristocat sailing catamaran, and accommodation options with its collection of Hai Tide Huts.

and can forage offshore in surface waters,

packed into a white Styrofoam box, waiting

successfully home and the empty sand

but can dive to depths of 150 meters.

for their chance to choose one that they

left only the happy participants moving

could then release.

slowly back from the waves. It was quite

This unique conservation program underway with Bali Hai Cruises does more

Several hours before, the turtles had

impressive to see the interest from all the

than merely help save the turtles. Villagers

been sent all the way from the Kurma

participants, the children in particular,

are also rewarded for turtle eggs they bring

Asih Foundation at Perancak Beach in

having felt so ‘close to nature’.

into the safety of the hatchery, preserving

the Jembrana Regency to Nusa Penida’s

them from dogs and other natural

Lembongan Island — some 22 kilometers

one which all visitors to the small island

predators. The money paid to the villagers

east of the Bali strait.

should participate in. For just US$10

In all, this is a very worthy program and

provides additional income for them.

The baby turtles instinctively headed for

Later in the process, local people

the waves. Some turtles were momentarily

- and name it... and kiss it goodbye... and

are also employed to take care of the

tossed back by the torrents, only to get

memories will last forever.

hatchlings until they are eventually released

back on their flaps and scuttle towards the

back into the sea. The project is run under

waves before eventually disappearing into

currently running multiple release cruises.

the continuous support and supervision of

the white foam. Some guests gave their

Please contact them for release schedules

Conservation International Indonesia, Pak

released turtle names, before watching

and further program information. ■

Ketut and his team, who assure proper

them hurry into the water. Some, although

Text and photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi

care while keeping detailed records for

in only such a brief encounter, became

research purposes.

quite attached to their adopted child that

The participants, who also consisted of children, eagerly watched the about 100 adopted baby Olive Ridley turtles that were 40

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

brought cheers as well as tears. But overall it did provide a ‘release’ for each adopter. Each of the tiny hatchlings made it

you can adopt and release a baby turtle

The Bali Hai Turtle Team is also

■ Bali Hai Cruises Turtle Team Benoa Harbor, (0361) 720-331 www.balihaicruises.com

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

41

BEYONDBALI

The beach at Lombang on the eastern tip of Madura. Right: there are deserted beaches like this one at Slopeng all along the north and east coasts; and all of the adult population is employed in the manufacture of salt in the village of Pinggir Papas.

NYADAR:

Balinese heritage in a Madura village 42

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

The discovery of Balinese heritage in a remote village on the Muslim island of Madura reveals a people proud of their unique heritage.

T

he murmur of Sanskrit

start flights to Sumenep from Surabaya and

mantras drift through the

Bali. But for now the only way to reach

village beneath the white-

Madura is by ferry.

flowered frangipani trees.

A history of rebellion against the

In the shade of a communal

kingdoms of old Java, coupled with mass

pavilion, old men with batik

immigration from the island in more recent

head cloths prepare offerings of leaves,

years, has left many Indonesians nervous

petals and holy water for the spirits of the

of the place and hardly likely to recommend

ancestors while women load ceremonial

it as a holiday destination, so few people

platters with sacred rice. But this is not

visit. This is a shame, for the Madurese

Hindu Bali; this a remote village near

people are among the friendliest you’ll

Sumenep on the Muslim island of Madura.

meet, and the landscape of limestone hills

Here a community of salt-makers holds

and rice and tobacco fields is remarkably

annual ceremonies to give thanks for their

beautiful, also with some perfect deserted

prosperity and to commemorate their

beaches on the eastern coastline.

ancestors – a party of Balinese soldiers. Madura is separated from East Java by

Madura’s reputation as rough and uncultured proves wildly unfounded in

a narrow strait. Sometime soon a bridge

the old royal capital of Sumenep, which

will connect the island with the nearby city

boasts a fine palace, or keraton, the last

of Surabaya, and Merpati Airline plans to

one surviving in the province of East Java.

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

43

Villagers rush to be first into the inner sanctuary that houses the tombs of their ancestors.

Madura’s reputation as rough and uncultured proves wildly unfounded in the old royal capital of Sumenep which boasts a fine palace, or keraton, the last surviving in East Java.

44

BALI&BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009

Long the seat of Madurese kings, people

by Angga Suto, a local holy man. Angga

here are proud of their refined and courtly

Suto was walking across the mudflats that

traditions. Beyond Sumenep there is plenty

surrounded what was then a poor fishing

more to explore. Aside from the beaches

village, when he noticed that the seawater

and beautiful landscapes there is the

that gathered in his own footprints left a

fascinating traditional culture. In the village

crust of fine, white salt crystals when it

of Slopeng you’ll see the very best of the

evaporated

carved dance masks found in Bali’s up-

But it is not just their trade that makes

market souvenir shops, made by craftsmen

the people of Pinggir Papas unusual. Other

who learned the trade from their own

Madurese confirm that the salt-makers

fathers. In other villages, batik and inlayed

speak a strange dialect, riddled with

woodwork are specialties. But nothing

Balinese words, for their forefathers actually

is quite as fascinating as the mysterious

came from Bali.

ceremonies known as Nyadar, held by the people of Pinggir Papas. Pinggir Papas lies beyond the fringe of

In the 1560s, the story goes, a Balinese king led an army against Sumenep. They landed on Madura’s eastern coast and

the forested land southeast of Sumenep.

advanced on the royal capital. But the

The village is surrounded by a stark

Madurese soon drove the invaders out,

moonscape of salt pans, and every adult in

torching their camps and destroying their

the community works in the salt industry.

warships. One small band of Balinese

According to legend, the process of making

soldiers fled the battlefield and found their

salt was discovered many centuries ago

way to a salty village on the coast where

they begged for asylum. It was given, on the condition that they converted to Islam,

ancestral shrines. Nyadar is the most important time of year

When the sun sets, the people of Pinggir Papas do not return home across

and so the refugees settled in Pinggir Papas,

for the people of Pinggir Papas, and even

the river. Instead they take refuge with the

intermarrying with the locals and creating a

those who have left Madura to seek work in

villagers of Kebun Dadap and spend the

unique syncretic culture all their own.

the big cities return for the ceremony. And

long, hot night preparing offerings of rice to

when the gate of the complex that houses

be heaped in a neat cone on special plates

Balinese heritage still finds expression in

the tombs of the ancestors is opened, a

known as panjeng – an important heirloom

the Nyadar ritual. Three times a year during

spectacular though good-natured struggle

for each family.

the dry season on dates that are fixed

erupts to be first into the inner sanctum. Old

according to the full moon, the people of

men in batik sarongs leap over gravestones,

alleyways are deserted. The salt-makers

Pinggir Papas leave their work on the salt

pushing the younger men aside in their mad

have returned to the shaded ground near

pans to don traditional dress and cross a

dash, while bulky women in headscarves

the tombs for the second stage of the

narrow river through the mangrove forest

jostle with their own husbands and sons for

Nyadar ritual. Here an enormous spread of

to the neighboring community of Kebun

a prime position.

upturned red and black baskets sheltering

More than four hundred years later this

Dadap, where Angga Suto and the other revered ancestors are buried.

Once everyone has squeezed into the inner courtyard, prayers mixing Sanskrit

At first light the next morning the village

the rice offerings make a bizarre sight. A traditional religious leader known as a

and Arabic are made and the tombs

kyai leads the ceremonies, reciting a string

amongst the trees beside the river. It is

are anointed with petals and holy water.

of Arabic prayers, Sanskrit mantras and

here that the Nyadar ritual is held. Every

Villagers mark their foreheads with a

fragments of old Javanese and Balinese,

family brings a package of petals and

murky paste made from rice-water and

blending the sacred languages of Islam

shredded leaves – reminiscent of the daily

betel nut – another mysterious echo of

and Hinduism into a seamless chant.

Balinese offerings – to place before the

Hindu practice.

Four old men called pangolo assist the

The sacred tombs stand on a low hilltop

The royal tombs, burial place of the kings of Sumenep, at Asta Tinggi near Sumenep.

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TANJUNGBUMI

BANGKALAN

MADURA

Madura Island SAMPANG

SUMENEP

KALIANGET SAPUDI ISLAND

PAMEKASAN RAAS ISLAND

SURABAYA CAMPLONG

GILIRAYA ISLAND

GILI-GENTENG ISLAND

The people of Pinggir Papas are proud of their unique heritage, and for them the Nyadar ritual and the memory of Angga Suto are at the heart of their culture. During the Nyadar ceremony graves are blessed with holy water and offerings of petals and betel nut are made.

kyai. They wear patchwork waistcoats

Papas where the sacred rice is dried then

of their unique heritage, and for them the

of colored cloth, passed down through

a little of it added to the cooking pot each

Nyadar ritual and the memory of Angga

the generations and only used during the

morning during the coming year, passing

Suto are at the heart of their culture. They

Nyadar ritual. Their task is to make a

its luck and blessings on and into the daily

are happy to let respectful visitors watch

careful count of the rice offerings.

meal. Within half an hour the place is

the event – and even to share a little of

When prayers are over, the villagers

deserted, with only a few scraps of leaves

their sacred rice with them when prayers

open the baskets and scoff a few handfuls

fluttering on the soft breeze to mark where

are over. And although they consider

of the rice, now blessed by god and the

the ritual took place.

themselves to be devout Muslims, they

ancestors. Then they hurry home to Pinggir

The people of Pinggir Papas are proud

are proud of their Balinese heritage and of the hospitality that saw their ancestors give asylum on this remote coastline. The Nyadar ritual is their way of showing this. ■ Text and photos by Tim Hannigan For information about the Nyadar ceremony, or about Sumenep and the rest of Madura (well worth a visit at any time of year), you can contact Kurniadi Wijaya of the official Sumenep tourist office. He can

INDONESIA 46

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be reached on (+62) 081-793-306-48 or at [email protected].

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47

CAPITALCORNER

A huge mural of spaceships and some other objects by the internationally acclaimed Yogyakarta artist Eko Nugroho fill the interior features of the recently-opened Potato Head.

THE HOT I

& SMASHING POTATO

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sn’t it always interesting to see what kind of places steal the hearts of Jakarta’s hang-out goers? Having heard all the buzz and fuss about the recently-opened Potato Head, Kathy Petite decided to bring her inquisitive

mind and appetite to this hot and hip restaurant on the outer edge of Pacific Place’s ground floor. But it’s not a weekend today! That’s what I mumbled to myself with a tone of surprise while looking at the mostlyoccupied tables and the crowd that was queuing at the front. Is it a magnet of being a new place or what it offers that leads to this addiction? I was about to find out. Walking into the place for the first time, what caught my eye was the huge mural of spaceships and some other objects by the internationally acclaimed Yogyakarta artist

Eko Nugroho. Cute and warm, it brings

Accompanied by sweet caramelized onions

to share with a couple of friends. Chicken

out the playful side of the restaurant.

on a bed of wild rocket, the beef tenderloin

and Prawn Dumpling came next. Freshly

was nice and juicy. The salmon got along

homemade, the dumpling was filled with

opposite the giant mural wall, was a long

very well with its spicy and sour tropical

minced chicken, prawn and mixed spices

bar. Going up to the upper floor there

fruit salsa, whereas the Peking duck

drowned in a deep brown, kind of salty

is a comfortable mezzanine reached by

was very rich although a bit sweet. The

chili vinegar dressing. For Escargot fans,

traversing a wooden bridge. The subtle

joy of a crunchy bite came from the Nori

Potato Head offers a rich one that was

lighting of the space was accompanied a

Wrapped Prawn. The dish they gave me

prepared with gratin of garlic and herb

lovey-dovey couple in their mid-twenties

had a plate of three crispy prawn “spring

butter.

exchanging passionate looks. Next to their

rolls” wrapped in Japanese seaweed and

table was a gathering of friends, bursting

a tiny bowl of creamy roasted capsicum

Cheese Steak Sandwich is a great option.

out in laughter and engaging in chitchat.

wasabi dip. A sizeable amount, enough

Coming on a wooden cutting board, you

I walked further. On my left side,

For sandwich or bread junkies, the Philly

But even more liveliness came from the outdoor area downstairs. Cozy large lounge sofas and tables were crowded by yuppies and expats sipping different kinds of colorful cocktails and munching appetizers. It was fun and relaxed. Having taken a glimpse of the place I finally sat down at my reserved table. There were four starters listed on the menu and they all did a good job of making me drool. The Trio of Mini Flat Bread came on a wooden platter. There was seared Tasmanian salmon, thin slices of beef tenderloin, and crispy Peking duck with cucumber scallion salad.

“Having taken a glimpse of the place I finally sat down at my reserved table. There were four starters listed on the menu and they all did a good job of making me drool.”

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49

The desserts are another side of heaven. Don’t you dare walk out of the place without trying the heavensent Oven Baked Apple Berry Crumble. Even when it gets soaked and drowned in the melting vanilla ice cream.

will be blown away by the satisfaction of

with saliva-inducing names, I had to take

chili, garlic, sweet cherry tomatoes and

enjoying the big, thick, long bread with

some time before putting my finger on

fresh basil leaves, the Tuna Spaghetti Aglio

melted white cheese covering the top.

something. Enjoying the Basmati Basil Rice

Olio came as a delicious pick from the list

Stuffed inside were thin slices of tenderloin

Pilaf, the Lemon Chili Garlic Prawn came

of pastas.

steak sautéed with sweet onions and

in quite a hearty portion. But what turned

mixed mushrooms. Lying next to it was a

out to be the ultimate satisfaction from

it be a real Potato Head evening without

handful of French fries and a small portion

the main courses was certainly the Char

exploring their cocktails? Of course not.

of salad. If you desire no presence of meat,

Grilled Prime Black Angus Beef Tenderloin

Getting ready to drink more than just the

you will still find gastronomic pleasure at

Tornado. Made perfectly with caramelized

very adventurous Ice Lemon Tea, I turned

Potato Head. The Grilled Vegetable Panini

onions and a mixed peppercorn sauce that

my eye towards their extensive list of

is proof. It’s ciabatta bread filled with a mix

was all buttery and sweet, every slice was

cocktails. For Martinis only, there is quite

of grilled vegetables and sweet basil served

a tender and succulent delight. Coming

a range of choices including a Vanilla &

with homemade tomato jam.

with baby cress salad, you can choose

Maple Syrup Martini, the PH Espresso

either shoestring potato fries or mashed

Martini, the JM’s Martini and the Pistachio/

potatoes. With a combo of green capers,

Rock Melon Martini just to mention a few.

As usual, choosing the main course could not be done instantly. Spoiling me 50

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A thought came to my mind. Would

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51

Freshly homemade, Chicken Prawn Dumplings were filled with minced chicken, prawn and mixed spices drowned in a deep brown, kind of salty chili vinegar dressing.

JM’s Martini came in a deep seductively

try the moist Warm Sticky Toffee Date

red color with a slice of dragon fruit, while

Pudding. A range of delectable flavors from

the Pistachio/RockMelon Martini offered

Haagen-Dazs ice creams are available

a mix of fruit with the zing of vodka. With

too. If sharing, enjoy the sinful delight of

shaken vodka and a twist of lime and

the Mini Profiteroles Glace, showered with

lemon, the Citrus Sorbet Gimlet came out

warm chocolate sauce. See if you still want

zesty and refreshing. The stronger kick

to share it the next time you come!

came from their Mary’s such as the Potato

Starters range from Rp 42,000 (Nori-

Head Signature Mary and the Australian,

Wrapped Prawn) to Rp 55,000 (Escargots

the latter requiring a little time to get used

or Trio of Mini Flatbread). Mains start from

to its bitter taste. For something simpler

Rp 80,000 and go up to Rp 260,000 for

and lighter, go for Bellini.

the Char-Grilled Prime Black Angus Beef

The desserts are another side of

Tenderloin. Desserts are from Rp 40,000

heaven. Don’t you dare to walk out of the

to Rp 55,000 with Rp 25,000 for each

place without trying the heaven-sent Oven

scoop of ice cream. Cocktails range from

Baked Apple Berry Crumble. Even when

Rp 80,000 to Rp 95,000. ■

it gets soaked and drowned in the melting

Text and photos by Kathy Petite

vanilla ice cream, no piece of it got soggy, it stayed crispy. Another to die for dessert is the Blueberry Galette, crumbly polenta

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■ Potato Head, Pacific Place Mall G51A,

galette wedges with blueberries and sweet

SCBD, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53,

lemon infused in a yoghurt topping. Or

(021) 5797-3322

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BEYONDUPDATES

FROM EAST TO WEST Aston International announces the opening of its Aston Natsepa Ambon Resort & Spa as the first internationally managed 4 star resort in Ambon. The hotel offers 96 deluxe rooms and suites, all with large private balconies and breathtaking ocean views. Also recently announced was its three star Aston City Hotel brand expansion by signing a management agreement for the Aston Soll Marina City Hotel on Sumatra’s Bangka Island. The new property is the 10th hotel to become a member of Indonesia’s fastest growing 3 star hotel group and will feature 120 modern and functional rooms and several meeting rooms. Aston International, (021) 831-8800; www.aston-international.com

RETAINING REPUTATION Telkomsel has successfully maintained its award status for 7 consecutive years for its kartuHALO postpaid services and simPATI prepaid services. Pictured is Telkomsel Merchant Program Manager Abdullah Fahmi (right) at the Indonesian Best Brand Award (IBBA) 2009 reception with SWA magazine Editorial Head Kemal Effendi Gani (left) and MARS Director Asto Sunu Subroto in July. Telkomsel achieved the highest IBBA Platinum Award rating for retaining its status. The IBBA award presented by SWA Sembada magazine and MARS marketing research institute is a form of appreciation of brands with the best business operations throughout the year. Surveys are carried out over a number of product categories in 7 large cities in Indonesia (Jakarta, Bandung, Surabaya, Makassar, Medan, Semarang, and Balikpapan) and involve 2,600 respondents through multistage random samplings. www.telkomsel.com

EPIC INSPIRED The Hotel Tugu Lombok has been listed in the Hot List of the World’s Top New Hotels 2009 in Conde Nast Traveler Magazine, featuring beautiful artifacts and antiques with a heavenly tropical landscape, as well as an architectural style that has been inspired by the beautiful legends of the Mahabharata epic. In 1361 three books were written by Empu Prapanca from the Majapahit Kingdom. The most famous one is known as Negara Krtagama, literally ‘the course of the creation of a country’, and was recorded during the golden times of King Hayam Wuruk. The Negara Krtagama describes East Javanese temples that functioned as a silent, peaceful places to worship. It is these temples in Negara Krtagama which inspired the architecture of the Hening Swarga Spa Temple at Hotel Tugu Lombok. The open-air spa temple boasts giant open-air room with nooks lit by oil lamps, an extra-long spa bed for both spouses to enjoy treatment headto-head, and a giant Jacuzzi bathtub with jets. Facing the Indian Ocean, reliefs of temples and staircases lead up to the top of the temple and then to a magical dinner under a full moon. Yoga or meditation can be held next to the soaring tower of beautiful Singhasari and Majapahit statues with a 180-degree ocean view surrounded by palm trees. Contact Hotel Tugu Lombok for this month’s interesting packages. Hotel Tugu Lombok, Sire Beach, Sigar Penjalin village, Tanjung, Lombok, (0370) 620-111; www.tuguhotels.com 54

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BEYONDUPDATES

APPRECIATION OF LIFE Vivi Yip Art Room presents an exhibition of art in appreciation of life through Faeries. The meaning of life is not always arrived upon at the conclusion of a grand debate or journey. It can be felt. It can be sensed. It can be stumbled upon like delicate little plants that strive for light in the most unlikely places. Attempting to grow out of the darkest chasm – even polluted places long abandoned. Absorbing carbon from the air to free oxygen, giving green hope to grey bareness. Faeries represent this subtle, eternal striving to move towards light. Vivi Yip Art Room celebrates this hope through the works of eight visual artists (Ali Rubin, Erika Ernawan, Indra Leonardi, Lovis Ostenrik, Mayumi Haryoto, Rudi Mantofani, Syagini Ratna Wulan, and Tromarama). Many forms came to be in the space dedicated for faeries. Each artist’s visual exploration of the friction between these magical forces of hope with his or her personal concerns became sculptures, paintings on mirrors, photography printed on canvas, manual and digital illustrations, installations and a video documentary. Vivi Yip Art Room, Lot 2-3 The Promenade Jl. Warung Buncit Raya 98, South Jakarta (021) 7900-480; www.viviyipartroom.com

PAINTING PAILS The Melia Purosani Hotel donated painting pails to the Taman Pintar in Yogyakarta on August 1st to show their commitment to society and to the environment through its Community Involvement Program. The Melia Purosani invited elementary school students in Yogyakarta to join in cleanup and painting activities. They collected 23 garbage bins and donated them to Taman Pintar, a city park built by the Yogyakarta government as a place where people can study and relax. This program’s aim is to encourage the students’ sense of belonging to the environment. The assignment was opened by Edy Heri Suasana, manager of Taman Pintar, and followed by Melia Purosani management and Yogyakarta’s city government officials. Melia Purosani Hotel, Yogyakarta, (0274) 589-521 www.meliajogja.com

ILLUMINATION The Tony Raka Art Gallery in Jakarta presents an art exhibition titled “Illumination”, presenting paintings by selected contemporary artists including Mangu Putra, FX Harsono, Putu Sutawijaya, Yunizar, Sutjipto Adi, Made Djirna, I.B. Purwa, Made Arya Palguna, Wayan Sujana Kenyem, Wayan Sudarna Putra, Rudy Sri Handoko, Ipong Purnama Sidhi, Walter van Oel, and Filippo Sciascia. They belong to different generations of artists who actively color the Indonesian art scene today – from the “senior” ones such as FX Harsono (b. 1949) to the younger ones such as I.B Purwa (b. 1977). This exhibition is designed to highlight some interesting facets of Indonesian contemporary art, and will be held at the Sampoerna Strategic Square, Exhibition Room #GF – 03A, Ground Floor, North Tower, Jl. Jendral Sudirman, Kav 45, Jakarta, from Monday – Friday: 10 am – 7 pm, Saturday – Sunday: 10 am– 5 pm, and runs through September 13. Tony Raka Art Gallery, Jl. Raya Mas No. 86, Mas, Ubud (0361) 781-6785; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com 56

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COMMUNITYCALENDAR

THISORIENTED 2ND STAGE

EMOTIONAL ALLEGORIES Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of paintings by Ida Bagus Ipong Purnama Sidhi titled ‘Emotional Allegories’ from September 3 to October 5. In his current work each canvas is dominated by a human figure(s) or face displaying a distinct emotional state. Interaction with others and symbolic peripheral images are used to create virtual allegories. Ipong’s technique is strongly influenced by graphic art sensibilities with extensive use of black outlines over bright colours. Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay (0361) 701-010, www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay

‘TERRORANCE TOLERISM’

Biasa Artspace presents an exhibition featuring the works of Matteo Basilé through September 30. This exhibition is in collaboration with Il Ponte Contemporanea - Rome. It is the second chapter of a project that Basilé recently presented at the 53rd Venice Biennial (2009). Biasa Artspace, Jl. Raya Seminyak 34, Kuta (0361) 847-5766, www.biasaart.com

THE GARDEN

Hanna Art Space presents a painting exhibition featuring the works of I Ketut Teler titled ‘Terrorance Tolerism’ from September 11 - 30. Works by I Ketut Teler are inspired by his deep journey and fight to invent the essence of diversity. The differences in color, ideology and or clan sometimes raise conflict. The two inseparable sides are only harmonized with tolerance (accepting diversity as the power of life). Hanna Artspace, Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, (0361) 978-216 www.hannaartspace.blogspot.com

Komaneka Fine Art Gallery presents an exhibition titled Taman, literally meaning ‘garden’ in Indonesian, featuring the works of namesake artist Pande Ketut Taman. Following his last solo exhibition in Jakarta in 2004, Pande Ketut Taman now returns working with various forms and elements upon his canvases. Elements are present in the form of paintings, sculptures and installations. The exhibition opens September 25 and runs through October 25. The gallery is open everyday from 8 am – 8 pm. Komaneka at Monkey Forest, Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, (0361) 976-090, www.komaneka.com

BEJEWELED The Gallery Boutique of the Maya Ubud Resort & Spa features a unique collection of jeweled batik tapestries designed by Annemarie Kipar that are on display through September 15. The German-born artist decorates her beautiful batik selection with beads, sequins and stones piece by piece, creating beautifully glittering tapestries. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa (0361) 977-888 www.mayaubud.com 58

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MEMORY OF ASIA Tonyraka Art Gallery presents an exhibition of art by Midori Hirota from September 3 to 26. Hirota has singlehandedly restored between herself, the Japanese woman and the war victims of the Japanese, the bond of humanity. Tonyraka Art Gallery Jl. Raya Mas No. 86 Mas, Ubud, (0361) 781-6785, www.tonyrakaartgallery.com

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MEANWHILE... THIS MONTH RETROSPECTIVE Griya Santrian present the works of I Nyoman Mandra, the leading artist of the “classical” school of Balinese painting, the art of the Kamasan village in Klungkung. Born in 1946, Mandra comes from an important family of artists, his maternal grandfather being Rambug, probably the best of the painters working in the late 19th and early 20th century. Mandra is exhibiting his works in Griya Santrian through September 30. There are also some Kamasan works of Mangku Sura, I Wayan Pande Sumantra, Ni Wayan Sri Widani, I Nyoman Adi Prabawa, and Ni Made Sri Rahayu at the Gallery. Griya Santrian Gallery, Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47, Sanur (0361) 288-181, www.santrian.com

RIPPLES Alila Living Gallery at Alila Ubud features a solo exhibition by Rie Mandala titled “Wandering Ripples”, through September 27. From her native country of Japan, across Asia, to Canada and to the US, Rie has lived, travelled and encountered a mix of different cultures along the way. This collection of 20 works of art offers a glimpse into her journeys. Alila Ubud, (0361) 975-963 www.alilahotels.com

UBUD: GREENER The Ubud Hotels Association (UHA) is promoting Ubud as a green destination with a series of charitable and environmental activities and hosting a seminar. The UHA is a non-profit, nongovernment organization comprised primarily of hoteliers and allied members who actively service the hospitality industry. The UHA will visit the temple of Pura Gunung Rawung in the village of Taro to pray and to plant 300 white cempaka trees this month, as well as promote the spirit of ecological responsibility in Ubud by participating once again in the annual ‘Clean Up the World Weekend’. On September 8, the UHA will be hosting a seminar with key speakers marketing specialist Rhenald Kasali and spiritual master Anand Krishna, as well as other prominent representatives. Anand Krishna will talk about “Spiritual Tourism – the spirit of tourism”, at the Convention House at the Royal Pita Maha Resort. This will be followed by a cocktail party to celebrate UHA’s anniversary. Ubud Hotels Association c/o Pita Maha A Tjampuhan Resort & Spa www.ubudhotelsassociation.com 60

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September 1 Police Women’s Day National observance September 4 Purnama ketiga, The third full moon Balinese Hindu observance September 8 Alphabet (Aksara) Day National observance International Literacy Day. International observance recognized by the UN Its aim is to highlight the importance of literacy to individuals, communities and societies. September 9 National Sports Day National observance September 11 Indonesian Radio Day National observance

Local Bali observance September 21 and 22 Idul Fitri 1430 Hijriyah, Muslim New Year - Muslim observance September 21 International Day of Peace. Dedicated to peace (specifically the absence of war) such as might be occasioned by temporary ceasefire in a combat zone. International observance, recognized by the UN World Alzheimer’s Day International observance September 22 World Car Free Day International day September 24 Agricultural Day National observance

World First Aid Day International observance

September 26 Statistics Day National observance

September 15 International Day of Democracy International observance recognized by UN

European Day of Languages Aimed to encourage language learning across European countries. European observance

September 16 International Day for Preservation of the Ozone Layer International observance recognized by UN

September 27 Post, Telecommunications and Telegraph Day National observance

September 17 Indonesian Red Cross Day National observance National Transportation Day National observance September 18 Tilem ketiga, The third New Moon Balinese Hindu observance September 19 Tumpek Pengatag/Uduh, Day devoted to Sang Hyang Sangkara, guardian of plants Balinese Hindu observance International Talk Like a Pirate Day. Parody holiday created in 1995 by John Baur and Mark Summers of Albany, Oregon. September 20 Hari Puputan Badung Commemorating the Badung Kingdom’s war against the Dutch, culminating in the whole royal family committing suicide

World Tourism Day International observance September 28 Railway Day National observance Right to Know Day International observance World Rabies Day A global initiative to raise awareness about the continuing burden of rabies and how the disease can be prevented International observance September 29 National Scholar’s Day National observance September 30 Commemoration of the September 30, 1965 movement. National observance Last week of September World Maritime Day International observance, recognized by the UN.

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SEE&SEEN

DOUBLE DIVA TAKES Hard Rock Centerstage featured a concert by the phenomenal Indonesian singer Anggun, who entertained her Indonesian fans on the Anggun Roadshow 2009 of five cities, Bali, Surabaya, Bandung, Yogyakarta and Medan. Anggun began her “step” in Sand Island, and collaborated with Indonesian singer, Dewi Sandra. In March, America Online (AOL) Survey chose her as number four of the world’s diva singers after Kyle Minoque, Vanessa Paradis, and Rihanna. www.anggunroadshow2009.com

OUT TO SEA! Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas together with Kuta Beach Sea Turtles Conservation held ‘Protect the Sea Turtles’ in late July, releasing 90 baby sea turtles on the beach in front of the hotel. This event is to be held regularly during the “turtle season” to help create awareness. Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas, Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta, (0361) 751-067 www.discoverykartikaplaza.com

THAI HIGH Black Canyon Coffee Indonesia received the Thailand Best Friend (TBF) Award 2009 from the Thai Prime Minister in early August. The award was given as a token of Thailand’s appreciation towards its business partners outside of Thailand. 52 companies from all over the world received awards in various categories. Black Canyon Coffee Indonesia received its award in the restaurant category. Black Canyon is expanding with what is anticipated to be the world’s largest outlet in Denpasar.

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CANGGU CHAMPION Mustofa Jeksen from Kuta Beach won his first ever Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Champion Tour contest at the 6-Star Oakley Pro 2009 in Canggu Beach on August 21. He surfed against fellow Kuta Beach local Dedy Santoso in a 25 minute final. Jeksen has a well-deserved reputation as one of the best up-and-coming young surfers in Bali at 20 years of age, having a great repertoire of radical maneuvers. Placing equal third were Garut Widiarta and Devis Ratif, both also from Kuta. The day was the culmination of four days of competition at Canggu Beach, the west coast of Baliís premier surfing arena. The next event on the Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship tour will be the Rote Open 2009, from September 16-19 on the island of Rote in East Indonesia. ISC Office, (0361) 768-293; www.isctour.com

HOTELHIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud. CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Telp: (0361) 283286; Fax.(0361)283017 Email: [email protected]; Website: www.mentarisanur.com

HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach. CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax. (0361) 750-792 E-mail: [email protected]; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com

HIGHLIGHTS: Pioneering three in one concept, hotel, suites and villas located in the heart of hippest Seminyak Area. Famous area for clubs, boutiques and restaurants. Walking distance to beaches. With perfect concept “Naturally Elegant” post Perfect palace for honeymooners, party goers and fashionista. FACILITIES: 96 hotel rooms, 60 spacious suites, 7 villas with private pool in each, function and meeting rooms, Three Main swimming pools, Atma Spa, SABEEN Healthy Restaurant, Gym, Library, Tirta Pool bar, butler services, Limousine service, LCD TV’s, Broadband Internet connection. Honeymoon package, Meeting package, Bed and breakfast package and Photo-shoot wedding Package. LOCATION: 15 Minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, walking distance to beaches, Shopping area, and Boutiques. CONTACTS: The Haven Hotel, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 – Bali, ph : 0361-738001 The Haven Suites & Villas, Gg. Raja, Jalan Double Six – Seminyak - Bali, Ph: 0361-738001 Fax : 0361-738002 Sales : 0361-738008 E-mail: [email protected]; Website: www.thehavenbali.com

HIGHLIGHTS: Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock! FACILITIES: Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles. LOCATION: Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury. CONTACTS: Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta. Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: [email protected]; Website: www.hardrockhotels.net

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FOURTH FESTIVITY The fourth Sanur Village Festival (SVF) took place from August 12 – 16 at the Mertasari Beach in Sanur. This year’s festival was themed “Marine Life”, with various activities and events highlighted in the five day fun-filled event. An opening ceremony was held with Balinese artists presenting a special contemporary musical performance as well as an arts and cultural parade marking the start of the festival. www.gotosanur.com

LEGENDS LIVE Nikko Bali Resort & Spa welcomed five maestros of Balinese dance at the opening night of the fourth annual Nikko Bali Cultural Appreciation Nights, held at the Kupu Kupu Amphitheatre on August 5. The five maestros were Ni Jero Puspawati, Ni Jero Gadung, Gusti Ayu Raka Rasmi, Ni Ketut Arini and Ida Bagus Oka Wirjana. Each of them performed a dance that amazed guests. At the conclusion of the event, the management of the Nikko Bali Resort and Spa honored these maestros and the audience also had the chance to take photos on stage. Nikko Bali Resort and Spa, (0361) 773-377; www.nikkobali.com

REIMAGINED

CLEAN-UP The Beach Clean-up Campaign 2009 was part of the Sanur Village Festival 2009, with hotels, restaurants, travel agents, dive shops, art shops and other businesses in the Sanur area showing their enthusiasm and support. Members of the Sanur tourism industry volunteered to coordinate this campaign in three different zones throughout the Sanur area.

The Patra Bali Resort & Villas held a re-launch event on August 14, inviting travel agents, media, and the hospitality industry of Bali to attend. It was hosted by new GM Hakim Affan and his team. The resort started a major renovation in March of 2002 and now further introduces its villas. The Patra Bali Resorts & Villas, (0361) 764 250

BRIAN ‘N HIS BRAIN Dominic Brian, a 12-year-old boy from Kuta, accomplished his “Guinness World Records” attempt at Bali Zoo in mid August after successfully displaying his ability to memorize 76 random numbers in 60 seconds. Brian previously broke the Indonesia Record Musuem’s (MURI) record of memorizing 52 cards in 100 seconds and 100 numbers in 12 minutes. Pictured is his father Gidion Hindarthio and Guinness World Records Asia representative Alex Iskandar Liew. www.slcbali.com

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KITE FLYIN’ The Bali Hyatt held its 12th Annual Kite Competition on July 29. All departments challenged each other with their modern and colorful traditional kite creations and their kite flying abilities. Respective kite artists from each department took turns making kites at the Temple Garden for 9 days with a “Green” theme. The event commenced with a parade from the Telaga Naga Restaurant. Bali Hyatt Sanur, (0361) 281234 www.bali.resort.hyatt.com

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RECHARGE RESTART... Bali & Beyond and ENVY presented Recharge Night, a hospitality industry and marketing party on August 7 at the newly launched beachfront dining venue of the Holiday Inn Resort Baruna on Jalan Wana Segara in Tuban. The party was themed ‘Recharge Your Vices’ tying in with the venue’s name. Entertainment highlights included Capoeira performances by world famous Senzala, Djembe drummers by United Percussion and DJ performances by DJ Aan (ENVY), and a ‘Vice Hunt’. The team at Bali & Beyond Magazine would like to thank all those who attended the fun night. Further thanks go to Stephane Varoquier, General Manager of Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali, and Billy Latief, Tasya Auliya and the whole team of ENVY for hosting the party with such a nice venue, good food and attractive entertainment - and also to the main sponsors Gigi Van Kuijk and Derry Hasibuan of Hatten Wines, and Andy of Bali Moon Liqueurs. Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali Jalan Wana Segara 33, Tuban (0361) 755-577 www.bali.holidayinn.com 66

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SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends

SPLENDID CHINESE MEAL AT BALI DYNASTY‘S GOLDEN LOTUS RESTAURANT A Splendid Chinese meal at Bali Dynasty‘s Golden Lotus Restaurant, with fully loaded “Lazy Susan’s” carrying a veritable feast to the 90 members and guests comfortably seated at the large circular tables in the newly redecorated Golden Lotus Restaurant. The wonderful menu included hot and cold appetizers, braised minced beef soup “Sihu” style with coriander, stir fried prawn with Vietnamese sauce, braised beef Saigon style with black pepper and spring onion, deep fried crispy chicken with Szechuan sauce, braised vegetables with oyster sauce, special fried rice and chilled fresh mango pudding. WOW! UPCOMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 160 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar are: October 2 - The Samaya - Seminyak November 6 - Hu’u Bar/Nutmegs Restaurant - Petitenget December 12 - Annual Festive Season Ball - Grand Hyatt - Nusa Dua January 8 - Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort - Nusa Dua February 5 - Sanur Paradise Plaza - Sanur ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the largest travel and tourism organization in the world with over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries. Members are tourism industry management and professionals in fields of accommodation, transportation, tours, travel, marine and cruise tourism, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas and travel media. Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth For information on joining Skal and participation lunches and events contact Gede Juwena at the Skal Bali secretariat on (0361) 784 0212 or at [email protected]

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CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS

ACCOMMODATION

during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s

VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3

/ quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different

villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete,

locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be

shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian,

arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.

Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510

BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766;

E-mail: [email protected]; www.dianagrouphotel.com

Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com

ACTION & ATTRACTION

INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the

NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from

beauty of walking among hundreds of

anywhere of the world. Chose from 1012 titles of 79 countries, daily, weekly or

beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia,

as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your preferred

Ginger and other interesting plants.

hometown newspaper on the same day of publication to your hotel or

A peaceful, natural and safe haven

residence on Bali. Contact your hotel or villa reception or call or email them for

close to the city. Enjoy a drink and find

the selection and pricelist 0361 769414 /

unique souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax:

[email protected]

466-011; www.baliorchidgarden.com; E-mail: [email protected]

TOURS & TRAVEL ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE

BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours

WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo

both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive.

& Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750

Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all

971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56,

kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields,

Email: [email protected]

crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views

www.adventureindonesia.com

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INFOINDEX AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369

■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: [email protected] ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: [email protected] ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: [email protected]

■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: [email protected]

■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: [email protected]

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: [email protected]

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: [email protected] ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: [email protected]

■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: [email protected] ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: [email protected] ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur

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HOSPITAL ■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate. ■ BIMC HOSPITAL: Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the KutaSanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Tel: (0361) 761-263. ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: [email protected] www.kasihibu.co.id

MUSEUMS

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: [email protected]

■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar.

■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: [email protected]

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm.

CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: [email protected] www.dfat.gov.au

fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

HEALTH & MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue

SEPTEMBER 2009

■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS ■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings. ■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience. Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.

TOURIST INFORMATION ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.

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