Build Beck Pulser

‘Bob Beck’ Blood Electrifier Low Voltage 4Hz Pulser

Building Instructions

Dedicated to my friend ‘Dogman’ – a gentleman and scholar.

This document is public domain and free to all those who wish to experiment with this device and ‘take back their power ’from International Drug Cartels that purposely enslave us and profit from an unhealthy population. These instructions shall not be sold, but given freely; in the original spirit of Dr. Robert Beck DSc. Instructions on the use of this device are contained in a separate document; or they can be found on the internet by using a search engine.

1. Background History In 1991 Dr Robert Beck DSc, a Physicist, began treating diseases using pulsed micro-currents delivered to the skin above blood vessels in the arm, that was found to neutralize viruses, bacteria and other pathogens circulating in the blood. The technique was based on earlier work carried out by Doctors William Lyman and Steven Kaali in 1990, where during laboratory tests they found that viruses were neutralized in HIV infected blood, when the blood was subjected to low electrical currents of 50 to 100 microamperes. Lyman and Kaali later published a technical paper detailing their work, which has since disappeared, but they patented a proposed invasive means of applying their technique in 1993 (US Patent 5,188,738). In 1996 Dr Beck improved his design by replacing the relays in his original circuit with an integrated circuit, making it solid state and more durable. The unit runs on 3 of 9V PP3 batteries (total 27V) and delivers approximately 100 milliamps to the skin above the radial and ulnar arteries on one wrist via two short electrodes. Allowing for resistance losses through the tissues above the arteries, between 50 and 100 microamps of current is delivered to the circulating blood. At the time of writing (2015) many blood ‘pulsers’ are available on the market at a range of prices. Probably the most well known of these products is made by SOTA, who worked closely with Dr Beck and who were endorsed by him. Their product ‘The Silver Pulser’ is an implementation of Dr Beck’s 1996 circuit and provides microampere pulsing to the blood, as described above, and also makes colloidal silver. It is however, our belief that a colloidal silver generator should be a separate device powered by a mains supply, whilst the blood electrifier should run on batteries and be a stand-alone unit. This document is a comprehensive set of instructions to help the interested person to build their own blood electrifier-pulser. The electronic components available today are of better quality than those available when Dr Beck first made his circuit. A small modification has been made to the battery indicator LED part of Dr Beck’s circuit to compensate for the different properties of LED resistance and output now observed in newer components. The resourceful builder may choose to make their blood pulser of a different configuration to that described here. This is perfectly acceptable, and with determination the builder may find he can make a device cheaper than that detailed here. Our design incorporates some of the more expensive components, like battery compartments and case, because they are resilient and well made. Following these instructions will still enable a functioning device to be made at a fraction of the cost of anything similar available through retail channels. What the enthusiast requires is some practical skills such as drilling, soldering and bolting small objects together. Sufficient illustrations and photographs are included to make the job easier. By way of tools, a good fine-pointed soldering iron, small screwdrivers, small pliers and snips, small drill and drill-bits, file, craft knife and masking tape are minimum requirements.

   

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2. General Specifications Dr Beck’s blood electrification device can be built from the circuit schematic and instructions freely available on the internet. However, some knowledge interpreting circuit diagrams and also a feeling for how the device can be designed are necessary. We have written this document in order that those with no experience of electronics are capable of building this device, empowering them to ‘take back their health’. As already stated, if the experimenter wishes to deviate from these instructions, for example use a different enclosure and battery compartments, he is free to do so; provided the circuit schematics are followed, a good working device can be made. Below is a picture of the completed device as described. Note that the 3.5mm mini-jack socket where the electrode leads are connected is situated on the front face of the device, out of picture.

Figure 2.1. Blood Pulser Unit General Arrangement (Electrode leads not shown) The enclosure is 150mm long, 80mm high and 50mm deep, which is the smallest size box capable of being used with the specified battery compartments. Electrode leads made from 1.3 metre long twin core flat pair mains cable (5A) fitted with a 3.5mm mini jack plug take the signal to the treatment site.    

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3. Circuit Schematics The figure below shows Dr Beck’s circuit diagram from 1996. There is nothing wrong with this circuit. Literally thousands of these devices have been built by experimenters over the past 18 years. However, electronic components, especially LEDs, have undergone some minor improvements since this circuit was designed. After testing the circuit with good quality LEDs available today, we found it necessary to make a minor alteration to the battery indicator part of Dr Beck’s circuit, in order that a clearer indication of the batteries state of charge can be determined.

Figure 3.1. Original 1996 Bob Beck Improved Schematic The above diagram includes the facility to produce Colloidal Silver. This may have some use if the owner of the device is travelling and unable to access mains power for long periods of time. Another advantage would be the convenience and portability of having the two devices in one enclosure. Our opinion is that a Colloidal Silver Generator should be a separate device operating from mains electricity stepped down by a regulated power supply. Much experimentation has convinced us that the best quality Colloidal Silver requires several hours to produce, using a DC voltage that has its current limited to an optimum value governed by the electrode surface area. In addition, it is better to produce Colloidal Silver in minimum quantities of between one and two litres for product consistency. With this in mind we have written comprehensive instructions on how to build a superior Colloidal Silver Generator, contained in another document. Therefore our implementation of Dr Beck’s circuit does not include a means to produce Colloidal Silver. It is a stand alone Blood Electrifier.

   

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Figure 3.2. Modified Schematic Circuit Diagram The above schematic is Dr. Beck’s 1996 circuit with the battery indicator part redrawn to optimize performance of LEDs available today. It can be seen that the layout of the circuit has been changed to make it simpler to follow. If you don’t believe this, just compare with figure 3.1 and trace the lines from each component to the next. You will see it is the same circuit. The circuit is built on ‘Veroboard’, which is a reinforced plastic sheet with copper tracks on one side. An array of holes is drilled in the sheet and the components’ contacts are passed through these holes and soldered onto the copper tracks on the opposite side of the board. It is a very simple and effective means of building electronic prototypes. ‘Veroboard’ is a proprietary name and a similar product may be available having another product name, such as ‘Eurocard’ or ‘prototype board’. The board size used here is 100mm x 160mm, with 1mm diameter holes set in an array of 2.54mm pitch. This is a common specification and allows standard components, such as chip sockets, to fit the board precisely.

   

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4. Preparation A piece of the ‘Veroboard’ needs to be cut to fit the enclosure, and your circuit will be built upon this piece of board. The board is cut easily by scoring along a line using a steel straight edge and a sharp craft knife (e.g. ‘Stanley Knife’). Once scored, the board can be bent along the line of the scored groove and it will break cleanly along the groove. When cutting along the direction of the tracks, score the line between two tracks on the same side as the copper tracks, and break. When cutting across the tracks, score your line deeply along a line of holes on the same side as the copper tracks so that the line passes through a line of holes. Bend and break the board along your line as before.

Figure 4.1. Veroboard Cut to Size to Fit the Enclosure Side to Side You will want your piece of Veroboard to be a good fit in your enclosure, so try to be accurate in cutting to plus or minus 1mm if possible. You can cut slightly oversize and file the board down to the exact size you want. Remember not to bridge the gaps between each track, as there must be no electrical contact between them. You can clear debris between the tracks using the tip of your craft knife. A magnifying glass is useful to inspect your finished board. The enclosure we have selected to build the device is made to accommodate ‘Veroboard’, and as such it is slotted within in both directions so that pieces of board can be held between the slots on each side.

   

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Figure 4.2. Enclosure and Veroboard Fitted Between Internal Slots Now that your piece of ‘Veroboard’ fits snugly between the slots inside the enclosure, you can proceed to the other steps in preparing the parts for assembly. First ensure that the enclosure lid fits without interference. There needs to be a gap if about 4mm between the top of the Veroboard and the inside of the lid. When the device is complete, thin wires will pass across the top of the board and they must not be pinched between the lid and edge of the board. The next step is to remove a small part of two copper tracks where the LM358 chip will be positioned. The LM358 chip has two rows of four pins (8 pins in total) that are separate contacts, and so the portion of track between opposite pins must be removed so that each pin is electrically isolated. This will be made clear in the following illustrations. Removing portions of the copper tracks is relatively easy. Again, a magnifying glass makes this easy. Where you cut can be marked first using a CD marking pen if need be. Use a straight edge and craft knife to score across the tracks through the copper only. Score two lines through the tracks you want to remove, but do not score outside the area to be removed. Be careful not to score too close to the holes where the LM358 chip pins will be soldered. You must leave enough copper around these holes to solder onto.

   

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Figure 4.3. Veroboard Track Removal Configuration (Viewed from plain side) The above diagram shows the amount of copper tracks to be excavated using your craft knife. First score the tracks then peel away with the tip of the knife, making sure that no copper remains and the end result is neat and tidy. Note that the diagram above shows the board looking from above, onto the plain side without the tracks. The tracks are on the underside of the board, the components are mounted on the top (plain) side. Note also the numbers and letters. These must be followed exactly, as your components are placed according to the numbers. The chip is housed in a chip socket, and it is the chip socket that will be soldered into holes H20, I20, J20, K20 and H23, I23,J23,K23. Be sure you remove the copper tracks only from where you must. Cutting across any other copper track will render it useless. In the diagram above, holes from 1 to 6 have not been shown for clarity, as the circuit is built mostly to the right hand side of the board.

   

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Figure 4.4. Veroboard With Track Areas Removed for Fitting of Chip Sockets The above photo shows two prepared boards with copper track removed from between the holes where each chip socket will be soldered. Once the track has been removed, carefully insert the chip socket through the holes on the plain side of the board. Make sure the orientation of the chip socket is correct. The socket will have a small indentation at one end between where pins 1 and 8 are located. See Figure 5.1 for clarity. It is important that the socket is fitted the right way around. To ensure the socket is soldered such that it is all the way ‘home’, or as far onto the board as it can go, you can use something to weigh the board down during soldering, so that the socket pins are fully through the board. The following photo shows the chip socket soldered when viewed onto the back of the board. A soldering iron with a five tip is needed for this work. Also remember to complete each soldered joint quickly, and do not let components overheat by a too long application of the soldering iron. This is especially important when soldering diodes and transistors; it is why we use a chip socket and don’t solder the pins of the chip itself directly onto the board.

   

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Figure 4.5. Chip Socket Soldered Once the chip socket is soldered into position the rest of the circuit is built around it. You can start by soldering the wire linkages between the various holes as shown in Figure 5.1. Fine single-core insulated copper wire, often called ‘prototype wire’ or ‘alpha wire’ is used. Cut to length and trim the insulation from each end about 4mm back. Surplus wire protruding from the track on the reverse of the board can be trimmed after soldering with small snips. A pair of small long nosed pliers can be used to bend the wire neatly. Remember to keep your work neat and tidy. Try not to use too much solder, as a large blob of solder can bridge the gap between the tracks and conduct electricity where it is not wanted.

   

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5. Building the Circuit The illustration below shows all components soldered into position on the completed board when viewed onto the plain side. Soldering is carried out on the back side where the copper tracks are. Note the chip orientation. Pin 1 is always at the top left corner of the chip and the pin numbers run sequentially anti-clockwise around the chip by convention. The chip will either have pin 1 identified or have an indentation at the top centre between pins 1 and 8. Similarly, the chip socket will have the top centre identified with an indentation.

Figure 5.1. Wiring Schematic on the Veroboard (Viewed from above) It is better to start the work by soldering the linkage wires first, as already mentioned. These are shown in brown on the sketch above. When this is completed, the board will look like the following photo.

   

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Figure 5.2. Wire Links Soldered in Place Soldering the remaining components in place is a simple operation, provided some basic precautions are observed. Firstly, remember not to over-apply the soldering heat. Solder each joint quickly to avoid damaging the components, and use only as much solder as is required to make a neat joint. The joints are small and a magnifying class is helpful. The kind of desk magnifier with its own light source is excellent if you can get one. Use a heat sink when soldering diodes, as they are sensitive to heat. This could be a spare crocodile clip, that can be attached to the component wire on the opposite side of the board to the soldered joints. This will conduct heat away from the component during soldering. Finally, pay attention to the polarity of some components. The Zener Diodes have a coloured band around them at the negative (cathode) end. In addition, the capacitor used in this circuit has polarity and must be soldered the right way around. These capacitors also have the negative terminal marked in some way; use a magnifying glass to find the polarity. Often, one wire is shorter than the other. LEDs also have a correct polarity, and you may have to look at the component datasheet found on the internet to determine polarity.

   

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Figure 5.3. Completed Circuit Ready for Wiring Harness The completed circuit is shown above. This is now ready for soldering the flexible wires that will connect it to the batteries, switch, LEDs and mini-jack socket fitted elsewhere on the enclosure. The wire used is multi-strand prototype wire, the equivalent size to the single strand wire used as links on the board. Multi-strand is preferred as it can be bent repeatedly without breaking, and needs to be flexible.

   

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Figure 5.4. Completed Board and Wiring Harness Note that at this point the chip has not been inserted into the socket. We normally leave this step until last as the chip is easily damaged and should be protected from static discharge. Now the board is complete, you may start preparing the enclosure. You might find it useful to mark the end of each wire with masking tape and label where each wire should be soldered onto. Alternatively use coloured wires and make a note of each destination. The enclosure can be protected by masking tape and you may mark the positions of various components onto the tape with pencil. It is important to be absolutely sure where each component should go, so that it does not clash with the circuit board within the case. Do many trial fittings first. Remember, ‘measure twice – cut once’. The most important parts to locate are the battery boxes. These must be located as far down one end and as far to the bottom of the enclosure as possible, to make room for other components. It will be a tight fit.

   

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6. Completing the Enclosure The photo below shows the enclosure covered with masking tape and marked for cutting and drilling. The battery boxes require some work because they have a lip/ridge all the way around so that they can be mounted within a slot cut into an enclosure. However, since you will mount two together, this ridge must be removed on one side of each battery box in order that they may sit side by side. This is easily done with a small hacksaw, finishing off with a file. Also the opposite ends can be trimmed down to remove the remaining holes. The boxes are glued into the enclosure using fast-setting araldite.

Figure 6.1. Enclosure and Battery Boxes Ready for Cutting and Drilling The lid of the enclosure should be marked where the centres of the Potentiometer (variable resistor), LED sockets and switch are to be fitted. Be absolutely sure where these will go as to avoid contact with the board and battery boxes inside the enclosure. In addition, a hole must be drilled in the front face of the enclosure (right end in the photo above) where the mini-jack socket goes. When this has been drilled, some of the ridges inside the enclosure around the drilled hole must be pared away with a craft knife or small chisel. This is so that the mini-jack socket can fit correctly inside the enclosure. When the preparatory work is complete, your enclosure and lid should look something like the photo below. Note that the LEDs are fitted within sockets. In the photo, the LEDs have not yet been inserted into the LED sockets.    

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Figure 6.2. Enclosure and Lid After Fitting Components Note that in the above photo the ridges around the battery boxes have been trimmed back so that the boxes can fit together. The ridges around the other 3 sides of each box have been trimmed back so they protrude about 3mm from the box. This is sufficient to prevent them slipping inside the enclosure and facilitates gluing in place later. It is a good idea to put masking tape on the enclosure where you do not want to get epoxy adhesive by mistake. When the battery boxes are glued in place, the tape can be removed before the glue sets hard. This will ensure a neater job. Nail varnish remover will clean epoxy provided it has not set. Using another solvent might damage the surface of the enclosure. The variable resistor (potentiometer) usually has a turning arc of about ¾ of a turn or more from ‘low’ to ‘full’. Do not worry too much about orientation, as this can be resolved when you come to fit the knob later.

   

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Figure 6.3. Battery Boxes Glued in Place

Figure 6.4. Reverse Side of Board Showing Soldering    

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7. Assembly

Figure 7.1. Additional Component Wiring Schematic The above schematic shows the layout of additional wiring used to complete the enclosure and join the additional components with the circuit board. Pay attention to the way the LEDs are wired. We have used two dual-colour (red/green) LEDs. They both flash red and green alternately, and if wired in parallel with opposite polarity, as shown above, they will both light at the same time but of different colour, and change colour 4 times per second. This is better for determining the battery condition. As battery voltage drops over time the LEDs will no longer flash green, though the red will still be visible until battery voltage drops below anything useful. Then it is time to change the batteries. The LEDs should be fitted within the sockets in the lid and wired together by using a small offcut of ‘Veroboard’. They are soldered onto the ‘Veroboard’. As mentioned previously, LEDs are very sensitive to heat and must be soldered using a heat sink clipped to the LED wire that is being soldered. Try to keep soldering time to a minimum and blow repeatedly on the soldered joint to cool it before removing the heat sink. The photo on the following page shows the arrangement for soldering the LEDs using a small piece of spare ‘Veroboard’ to join them in parallel, positive to negative, so that they light red and green alternately.    

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Figure 7.2. LED Soldering Method Once the LEDs are soldered, the remaining components can be joined as shown in Figure 7.1. Some care should be taken when connecting the mini-jack socket. Note that the LED battery indicator should light only when the electrode leads are unplugged. Inserting a mini-jack plug into the socket, breaks the flow of electricity through the LED part of the circuit. It is important to find out what terminal of the mini-jack socket does what. There is a contact to the positive (tip) of the jack plug and a contact to the negative (main part) of the plug. The third (often centre) contact of the mini-jack socket does nothing when a plug is inserted, as the contact with the positive terminal is broken. You can use a jack plug and voltmeter to determine which contact is which prior to soldering wires to the terminals. The remaining soldering is fairly straightforward. However, care needs to be taken when considering which contacts on the variable resistor are used. There will be 3 contacts and only 2 are required for soldering. Use a multimeter set for measuring resistance and find out which pair of contacts give the lowest resistance when the potentiometer is turned fully clockwise. One of the contacts will be the centre and the other correct contact will be one of the two end contacts. If this is not done correctly, the current control know will work in the opposite direction to that which is desired, i.e. low current when the knob is turned fully clockwise. A little care at this point will help avoid any embarrassing mistakes.

   

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Figure 7.3. Soldering of All Components Completed Your completed wiring should look something like in the photo above. Test that the lid will fit and no two components touch one another. The LM358 chip is very sensitive to static electricity discharge, and can be destroyed easily if you touch it when your body holds a static charge. Your body can be discharged using an earthing (or grounding) strap fitted to your wrist. The strap connects by cable to an earthing point on a mains outlet wall socket. If you do not possess such a thing, then an alternative is to wire up a standard mains plug so that just the earth terminal is connected to a wire, the other end of which is pared back and held in the hand. The wall outlet can be switched off. You can touch your screwdriver and pliers with the wire in order to discharge them also. Once you are satisfied that you have discharged your body and any tools you might use, remove the LM358 chip from its antistatic bag. Note the position of pin 1 on the chip and ensure it goes in the socket the right way around. Again, a magnifying glass is helpful to ensure all the pins are located in the corresponding holes in the socket. You might find a small screwdriver helpful for springing the pins of one side into the holes. Push the chip firmly home.

   

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Figure 7.4. LM358 Chip Located in the Socket Now the board can be inserted into the slotted enclosure. If your positioning of the LEDs, switch and potentiometer were correct, there should be adequate room for the board to be fitted and the lid to close with no clashing of components. It may be necessary to bend one or more of the resistors and/or capacitor to one side to give clearance. There should also be enough space between the board top edge and inside of lid to allow some of the wires to pass through the space above the board edge.

   

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8. Completing the Device Congratulations! You have now completed your Dr Beck Blood Electrifier. With three 9V batteries fitted, switch on the device and the LEDs should flash red and green alternately as shown below.

Figure 8.1. Completed Device Switched On If these instructions have been followed exactly, your device will work as described. If not, then you have some troubleshooting ahead. The most common cause of failure to operate is the LM358 chip is dud. Quite often you can be sold a dud chip, it does happen. Otherwise somehow you have subject it to heat or a static discharge. Carefully change the chip and switch on again. Test the output at the jack socket with a voltmeter; you should read a fluctuating voltage. If you get a reading and the LEDs still do not light, then it is likely you have dud LEDs. You can damage your LEDs (or even one of the colours) by too much heat when soldering.

   

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9. Electrodes and Leads Dr. Beck’s original instructions specify stainless steel electrodes, and these are perfectly acceptable. If the experimenter wishes to go down this route, we recommend 2.6mm stainless welding rods of 316 material. They are however, difficult to solder wires onto. We use 2mm diameter silver wire. The reason for this is that we use the same material for the electrodes in our Colloidal Silver Generators, and so we have it available. Pure silver has the benefit of being easy to solder, and is a very good conductor of electricity. It is also easy to cut, bend and shape. Cut your silver wire into lengths of about 33mm. Slightly flatten one end of each electrode with a hammer and using a file, round the opposite end. Finish off by smoothing with fine emery paper. Your electrodes should look something like in the photo below.

Figure 9.1. Completed Silver Electrodes

   

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The cable used to solder onto the electrodes can be any low resistance cable available, provided it can tolerate bending and being coiled. We use a two core mains cable like a flat pair, that is small enough to be fitted to a 3.5mm mini-jack plug. You will need a length of cable between 1.3 and 1.5 metres for each set of electrodes. Once the electrodes are soldered onto one end of the cable, we use heat-shrink covers to make a tidy job. These can be bought in most hi-fi or electrical stores. Just place over the soldered joint and heat with a heat gun or over a flame, being careful not to burn the heat shrink.

Figure 9.2. Soldered Electrodes and Heat Shrinks Over Soldering We also use heat shrinks to prevent excessive bending of the cable where it joins the mini-jack plug, and also where we split the cable about 150mm back from the electrodes to prevent it splitting further. For a neat job you can use one heat shrink above another to make a thicker sleeve over soldered joints. A completed electrode lead should look something like the first photo on the next page.

   

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Figure 9.3. Completed Electrode Leads

Figure 9.4. Beck Device and Electrode Leads Complete    

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Finally, the device should not be used with the bare electrodes contacting the skin as this can result in mild burns to the skin due to intermittent electrical contact. As described by Dr Beck, sleeves made from thin cotton or linen fabric should be made to cover the electrodes. These in turn need to be saturated with saline solution when in contact with the skin, each electrode situated above the treatment sites as specified by Dr Beck. The sleeves are made by cutting a small piece of fabric and taking 3 turns around the electrode. Using a needle and thread, make 2 or 3 stitches through the fabric at the base of the electrode then wind a spiral to the end of the electrode and take 1 or 2 stitches right through. Take 2 turns around the electrode, another stitch right through then wind a spiral back down the electrode in the opposite direction. Finish by taking a couple of stitches trough and ties off using 2 or 3 knots. You completed electrode sleeves should look like those in the photo below.

Figure 9.5. Cotton Electrode Sleeves To ensure good conductivity, the electrode sleeves and skin at the place of application should be soaked with saline. We use Aloe Vera gel, though any gel is conductive and will get current into the skin. Gel has been found to be better as it does not dry out so quickly, though you need to apply more at about 30 minute intervals to ensure continual conductivity. Elasticated material is useful for keeping the electrodes on the required location. Alternatively wrist bands are available in many sports shops. Remember to rinse the sleeves (whilst still on the electrodes) after use. When dry they can be carefully removed to clean the electrodes. In this way they may be replaced and used many times.

   

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10. Technical Data Component

Supplier/Order No.

Price AU$

Price UK£

Plastic Box 150 x 80 x 50mm

RS Components. 502-657

10.14

5.20

Double PP3 Battery Holder

RS Components. 501-244

12.64

6.50

Single PP3 Battery Holder

RS Components. 508-116

6.90

3.50

LED Socket 5mm

Element 14. 254976

2.17

1.10

Mini Jack Socket 3.5mm

RS Components. 106-874

1.05

0.53

Toggle Switch (SPST)

RS Components. 518-5291

8.65

4.40

Board (Veroboard) 100 x 160mm

Element 14. 451058

9.07

4.60

2 Dual Colour LED (Red/Green)

Element 14. 1142560

1.00

0.50

Potentiometer Knob

RS Components. 498-851

4.95

2.52

8-Pin IC Socket

Element 14. 1824464

0.31

0.16

LM 358 Dual Op Amp Chip

Element 14. 9486836

0.82

0.42

R5 Potentiometer 100 kΩ

RS Components. 410-233

10.80

5.50

Capacitor 0.1µF 50V

Element 14. 1871011

0.05

0.03

2 Zener Diodes 18V ½ Watt

Element 14. 1385618

0.12

0.05

Resistor R1 2.4 MΩ 5% 0.25W

RS Components. 707-7931

0.50

0.20

Resistor R2 150 kΩ 1% 0.25W

RS Components. 491-1954

0.26

0.13

2 Resistors R3/R4 100 kΩ 0.25W

RS Components. 491-1910

0.55

0.26

Resistor R6 820 Ω 1% 0.25W

RS Components. 707-7669

0.24

0.13

Resistor R7 100 Ω 1% 0.25W

RS Components. 894-9048

0.13

0.07

70.35

35.80

Total Component Cost

Table 10.1. Components Used and Their Relative Cost    

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You can see from the previous table that a Beck Device can be made for around AUS $70 or UK £36 (not including leads). Compared with retail products at today’s prices (2015) the following:




Cost for SOTA Pulser is: UK£ 195 (includes silver colloid generator (AU$350) Australia KZ-03 Beck Zapper AU$188 RSG2 Silver Pulser UK£ 228.

Of course, no money can be placed on the satisfaction gained through building a Beck Device yourself. Below is an image grab from the oscilloscope when a new device was tested with new batteries. The probe was connected to the electrode ends directly.

Figure 10.1 Oscilloscope Image of Device With New Batteries The voltage scale (vertical) is set to 10V and time scale (horizontal) to 100 milliseconds. The pulse amplitude is therefore about 27.5 volts (with new batteries tested at 28.5V) meaning a drop of 1 volt through the circuit, which is expected. This shows the circuit designed by Dr. Beck is very efficient. Note that the negative pulse time is shorter than the positive time by 20 milliseconds. This is not critical, and is a reflection of the inconsistencies between component values, in this case the resistors and capacitor. The frequency is however, very close to the 3.92 Hz (1/2 the earth’s frequency) specified by Dr. Beck in his 1996 circuit diagram. We have found experimentally that the LEDs do not flash green when the combined battery voltage drops below 23 volts, though the LEDs continue to flash red brightly. The LEDs stop flashing red when the voltage threshold drops below 21.5 volts. At this time the batteries should be changed.    

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