Craftwise Magazine

Projects and techniques

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Cake Decorating: Easter Bunny Basket

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Mosaic Box

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Painting: Guardian Angel

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Easter Bunny Cake Topper

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Beading: Cluster Pearl Bracelet, Netted Cuff Bracelet and Triple Drop Joy

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Sculpting: Diva of Dance & Bunny Doorstop

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Mixed Media: Bowled Over

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Easter Gift Bag

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Stained Glass: Sweet Treat that Lasts

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Lady Rainbow Nuggets

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Mixed Media: Karoo Painting

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Mixed Media Memories

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Easter Decorations

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Easter Lampwork Charms

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Items of Interest 35 66

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Scrapbooking: Happy Easter

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Scarve: Print Bold Purple Medallions

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Papercraft: Tea for Two

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Stained Glass: Time for Tea or Coffee

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Painting: White Flower

MASA Cancer Community Project Craftilicious

Regulars 5 41 71 72 74 81 82 83

New Products and Books Sudoku Wordsearch 102 & Winners Back Issues Subscriptions Classified Smalls Suppliers Pages Patterns

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ISSN 1029 2837 EDITOR Marichen van Zyl [email protected] SUB-EDITOR Sharon Calverley [email protected] SENIOR ARTIST & PHOTOGRAPHER Hannalie Hurter [email protected] SUBSCRIPTIONS Marietjie Breet [email protected] ADVERTISING Lauren Barwick [email protected] AD DESIGN Owen F. Calverley [email protected] PUBLISHER Owen Calverley [email protected] SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADVERTISING, EDITORIAL & GENERAL ENQUIRIES Mon-Thurs 08:00 - 16:00 Fri: 08:00 - 13:00 Sharecall: 0860 62 63 62 Switchboard: +27 (0)44 601 7500 Fax: +27 (0)44 691 3367 CONTRIBUTOR ELVES & SUPPORT ELVES Just too many to list here... Thank you to all of you for your inputs, your fantastic projects, the inspiration you provide and most of all for your willingness to share. You are ROCK STARS!!

RETAIL DISTRIBUTION - SOUTH AFRICA RNA - Fransie Smuts: 011 248 3500 PUBLISHED BY Tucats Media CK1998/51811/23 PO Box 193, Mossel Bay, 6500, South Africa

www.tucats.co.za Sold in Craft Supply Shops, Stationers, Supermarkets, Chain Stores & Newsagents throughout Southern Africa. Available by subscription worldwide. While the publishers take every care to ensure that the content of this publication is accurate, we cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions that may occur. The views expressed in articles are not necessarily those of the publisher, staff or contributors. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system by any means without the prior permission of the publisher. The copyright of designs featured in this magazine remains with the originators of the designs and such designs may not be used for financial gain in any way unless the permission of the copyright holder has been obtained. While every effort is made to safeguard original material, no responsibility for damage or loss can be taken for samples, manuscripts, illustrations, photos and images while in our possession or in transit. The editor reserves the right to edit material submitted and also to reject any unsuitable advertising or editorial material.

©

Noo Noos for Yoo!

H

ands up everyone who still finds themselves writing 2014! If you're anything like me you're still wondering where 2014 went. I suspect it just may have got lost somewhere between 2013 and 2015. I blinked and missed it. Down here at the coast we had the most unbelievable weather over the summer holidays, with a sweltering January. If you were one of the million who made the trek down south you know what I mean. Mossel Bay was its usual crazy December self with traffic jams and topless beer-boeped simians in the supermarket queues. Lets be honest here, most of us can still appreciate bikinis in the queue at Spar, but hairy backs and beer-boeps are really not cool. And you should see some of the men! Two of our younger elves (no names) have taken up surfing. Two of the (older) elves have taken up lawn bowls and have coaxed/coerced the rest of the team to play in the local business bowls league on Thursday nights. They are actually quite good and the other teams are starting to take notice of the Tucats Media chicks! Moving on, there is some crazy exciting news to share with you. In mid July we are planning to run the In2Crafts Expo at Emperors Palace in Johannesburg! Craft shopping, handson workshops and fun, fun, fun for three days. Start saving now so that come July you can splash out on some me-time crafting fun. We are lining up exhibitors representing every craft possible so that no matter what your creative passion, it will be there at the In2Crafts Expo. Visit our website to be kept up to date with developments. www.in2crafts.co.za and also on our FB page www.facebook.com/in2crafts. If you would like to be an exhibitor or teach a workshop, please contact me urgently by phone or email. So what about this issue? Well bearing in mind that Easter is coming

up, our intrepid contributors have had great fun creating bunnies big and small. Now those of you who read this column regularly will know that I seldom do a walk-through. This time though I am so excited about the variety of crafts and projects that I am going to break with tradition. Here goes: Vanessa has created a yummy Easter cake; Marietjie and Marichen have been playing with a brilliant "paper clay" recipe which they share with you; Cher has been sticking glass nuggets on a store mannequin; Ronel shows you how to paint a Guardian Angel and a floral scene; Hannalie shares her Karoo landscape; the Creative Talents team have a multimedia memory canvas; Heather and Stan share more glass decoration secrets; Monique and Angie share an innovative way to make bowls; Gwen has a lead-glass bowl; Melanie prints with found objects; Sue and Karen show us how to create a Teapot album; Jacqui has a lead glass teaspoon holder for you; Glenda shows us an Easter scrapping layout; Manda's got some adorable miniature bunnies; Petro has an easy mosaiced box and Beads Direct have a whole range of beaded jewellery projects. Lots and lots of different things to do! I will leave you with that and simply wish you happy reading, happy dreaming and most of all, happy playing with messy things!

Emails to: [email protected] Faxes to: 044 691 3367

www.facebook.com/craftwisemag

Post (last resort!) : PO Box 193, Mossel Bay 6500

www.facebook.com/in2crafts

Lesley Riley's TAP Transfer Artist Paper Iron-On image Transfer sheets Print on them with an Inkjet, paint, stamp, or draw images onto TAP, then iron on to virtually any surface. Transferred images are crisp and colourfast. Washable and crack-resistant on fabric. Each package includes free bonus sheet of Silicone Release paper. 8½” x 11". Available now from www.thefatquarter.co.za

Water Marks Paint flowers with water, colour and texture Author: Monique Day-Wilde Publisher: Metz Press Softcover 128 pages ISBN: 978-1-920479-86-2 (AFRIKAANS: Water (verf) Kuns) To most of us, the term "watercolours" conjures up images of soft landscapes and floral scenes, with translucent washes overlaid by muted ethereal tones. In this book Monique takes you beyond that, to a world of rich and vivid colours as she introduces other water-based media such as ink, fabric dye and coloured pencils complemented by texture mediums for body and texture. Learn as you experiment with a variety of both conventional and novel techiques and materials, including wet-on-wet, bleeding, mixing, salt, wax paper, posterization, cling film, metallic pens, wax, masking fluid and much much more. The step-by-step projects include clear photos and good descriptions of the techniques used, with suggested variations to allow you to personalise your artwork. Fine artists will find this book useful, crafters will find it absolutely fascinating and will not want to stop reading. Highly recommended.

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I am sending you a few photos of my shell art deco. I am a partially paralysed 67 year young pensioner and this is my passion. I do wall tiles, wall and mirror deco and fridge magnets. My problem is that I live in a small village on the KZN South Coast and don't have an outlet for them as I cannot drive any more. I don't want to make a great profit. I just need to recoup my expenses viz. Glue and varnish.

Dear all I am such a great fan of Craftwise, but all the work in this magazine makes me feel so tired! Time to "T/O". I'd better soon pick up on my reading skills, as I understand this great mag is issued every 2 months. Pheeewie. Regards to my fellow Craftwise fans. MUFFIN Sasolburg Groete / Greetings BABS

Sincerely Gail Howard Cell 0768324122 P.S. I look forward to your mag appearing on the supermarket shelves with much anticipation every 2nd month!

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Dear Owen and Craftwise Elves My name is Natalie Heydenrych and I live and work in Bonnievale (the town with the best kept secret). I have a tiny art and coffee shop in Bonnievale. I just wanted to show you all the light that my husband and I make together! Thanks for a lovely mag! Yours, Natalie

CAKE DECORATING

by Vanessa Broughton [email protected] 083 456 1903 Materials/tools available from: Hostess Pro Sugar Craft www.hostesspro.co.za

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REQUIREMENTS: • Basic cake – size of your choice • White fondant to cover cake and for bunny • Butter cream • Tape measure • Silicone mat • Hand mixer 4 texture roller / impression mat • Scale • Cake smoother • Fondant : yellow with added tylose • Fondant : pink, blue, purple, green • Tylose or CMC • Flower wire • Extruder • Edible glue

• • • • • •

• • • • • •

Brush Edible glitter Melted chocolate Cerise colouring powder for lace butterflies 20g Crystal lace signature blend Ready made twine lace or make your own with twine lace mold and crystal lace Butterflies & More lace mold / any lace butterflies Blossom veiner mold and cutter Blade and ruler Pearls 2 x stamens Teardrop cutter

Cover your cake with white fondant.

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Ruffles on basket Measure the circumference and height of your cake. Roll out a length of yellow fondant to the height + 1 cm and ±4 x the circumference of your cake (plus a little bit extra for joining). My cake has a circumference of 20 cm so I rolled out two 45 cm lengths of fondant. Using a tape measure as a guide start folding ruffles till you reach the measurement you need.

Blanket Roll out a piece of purple fondant to approximately fit the top of your cake. Add texture to it with the texture roller or impression mat. Cut into a square. Place on top of your cake so that it looks like a blanket with folds.

Leave to dry then glue around outside of your cake.

4 Handle Bend the wire into a handle shape and measure to ensure it is long enough to go from one side of your cake to the other. Roll white and yellow fondant strips. Twist together then insert both into the extruder. Using your extruder make long 'worms' which will be twisted around the wire to make a handle. You will make 2 layers. The first one thinner then the second one thicker. This gives it a chunky look and is much stronger. Insert your handle into your cake.

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Eggs Using different fondant colours make egg shapes.

Flowers. Roll the fondant out on the silicone mat and using the cutter which comes with the veiner flower mold, cut out the shape. You will do this with pink, purple and blue fondant. You will need 3-4 of each colour.

Make 3 of each colour depending on the size of your cake and how many eggs you want on your cake.

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Take the cut out shape and place it on the one side of the mold, folding the other half over and pressing down to make the blossom shape and adding the veins. Remove from mould and add a dot of edible glue to the centre. Glue a pearl in the centre. Do this with all the flowers.

7 Butterflies If you do not have ready-made lace butterflies you can make them using the following directions: Mix 20 grams of Crystal Lace Signature Blend Powder as per the instructions on the pack. Colour with cerise pink colouring powder.

8 Bunny Make a white bunny for the centre. Remember to add tylose to your paste before making the figurine so that it will set.

Let it stand for an hour or more then its ready to use. First take a brush and dust the butterfly parts of the mold with edible glitter. Place a spoonful of the mixture on to the lace mat and using a scraper work the mixture into the mold. When all grooves have been filled, scrape over the mat from one side to the other, cleaning any excess mixture off the mold. Place the mold in the sun or on a hot tray until set.When ready, remove from the mold. Fold a business card in half, one for each butterfly. Hang the butterfly upside down over the business card and paint with chocolate. This is done to stiffen the butterfly so that it keeps its 'flying' shape. Leave to dry.

Ribbon Cut two 1.5 cm strips from the twine lace to wrap around the basket. Assembling After all the parts are complete and set you are ready to assemble. Now attach the bunny, eggs, flowers and butterflies to top of purple blanket using edible glue. Don’t forget to attach some flowers and a butterfly to the handle! Finally join the twine strips and wrap around the cake. Add a butterfly to the front and your cake is done!

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PAINTING

‘”FRIENDS ARE ANGELS WHO LIFT US TO OUR FEET WHEN OUR WINGS HAVE TROUBLE REMEMBERING HOW TO FLY’ Have you ever had a feeling that you are not alone, that there is a lot of positive thoughts, energy, love and care that surrounds you? My painting is a very spiritual painting for all my wonderful friends and readers who, after the loss of my husband, just embraced me with love and spiritual guidance as if an angel was holding my house in her arms watching over me and my fourlegged children. This angel is very special to me, hanging in my bedroom where I can see her last thing at night and first thing in the morning!

GUARDIAN

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Brushes used:

Americana paints used:

Flat: in different sizes Round: numbers 4 and 6 Fine liner Nail art kit (very fine brushes) Shader brush

Teal green Antique teal Snow white Sea breeze Desert turquoise Soft blue Silver sage green Paynes grey Burnt sienna Flesh and highlight flesh

Canvas flower stamp Dotting tool Saral transfer paper and stylus Acrylic sealer/gel

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Basecoat the canvas with acrylic sealer or gel mixed with some teal green and soft blue. Make sure you cover the top background with a lighter mix than the foreground. I used antique teal mixed into the gel. Transfer the angel onto the canvas. Roughly sketch in the houses.

Shading flesh Whispering turquoise Dark chocolate Ochre Marigold Black forest green Metallic peacock green Silver

2 Roughly sketch in the wings only as an indication. First paint the wings with a darkish colour as you want the flowers to show up against the background. Fill the wing area with stamped flowers. These flowers depict my friends - each and every one of them. Yes - angels can definitely have flower wings! Basecoat the angel with flesh colour. Shade in with the darker flesh colour. Leave the hair for later.

Basecoat the dress with silver sage green. Remember to work from the background to the foreground: background, wings, dress then house. Use highlight flesh on the arms and cheeks as well on the neckline and nose.

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Start painting in the dress in the colours of your preference. I used desert turquoise, teal green, antique teal, whispering turquoise and sea breeze. Once I have decided how to paint the dress, I started adding a lot of Bling with peacock metallic, shimmering silver as well as some glitter paint. Use the dotting tool or the back of a fine liner brush or a toothpick to make perfect little dots.

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Start painting in your home. Dearest readers, I believe there is a little bit of heaven in each and everyone’s home. This is my home (well sort of, I ran out of space for the garages and left out the stained glass windows in front. It’s facebrick with a green roof and many, many windows for light. Paint in the windows with Paynes grey for darkness on which you will shade in the curtains. I used a very tiny shader for this.

My angel’s dress is full of embroidery and bling - she is very fashionable!

Remember your garden in front of your home. Just dot in the plants and flowers as the house is the focal point and not the garden.

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Start painting in the hair, again to preference. I painted the hair darker and started highlighting it from dark to light and ended up with some white streaks for more light. I used dark chocolate, burnt sienna, ochre, marigold and white. Use the rigger brush, load well with a watery paint to get smooth streaks of colour.

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Here I used the brushes from my nail art kit to paint in her face, and her eyes looking down at my home. I tipped her lips with shading flesh and white for light. Do not forget her eye-make up and nail polish!! Shade now using the shader and Paynes grey where shading is necessary. I shaded on the side of her arms to show up the wings, under her chin, bottom of her dress, etc. Complete your dress. Shade in soft folds and a lot of light to resemble movement. Paint on pearls and embroidery onto the skirt then outline with white very loosely - just here and there. The more bling, the better.... For the foreground I painted in a very dark background first, using Paynes grey mixed mainly with colours in my wetbox. I wanted to use the same flower stamp for the very foreground. The focal point is the angel so I painted a very faded, but still dark enough foreground for effect.

I have good news I must share with you dearest readers! My wonderful friend of more than 20 years, Colleen Amos is coming to share my house with me and my beloved home will be “Our Home” again. Her son, Gavin, made this all possible for us. See - there are angels out there looking after us!

‘WHAT I LOVE THE MOST ABOUT MY HOME IS WHO I SHARE IT WITH’ by Ronel Swart

For more information on this project you can email Ronel Swart: [email protected]

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BEADING

Cluster Skill level: Beginner Created by: Henrietta Nel of Beads Direct SA

Bracelet

REQUIREMENTS: • • • • •

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6 mm Chinese glass pearls 4 mm Chinese glass pearls 8º Miyuki rocaille beads 5 m Beading thread 2 x Beading needles

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Step 1: Thread needles on both ends of a comfortable length of beading thread. Pick up 1 x 6 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 6 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 6 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 6 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille. Move the beads to the centre of the thread and go through the first pearl added to form a ring.

Step 1

Step 2: use needle 1 and pick up 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille. Use needle 2 and pick up 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl and go through the last 8º rocaille added with needle 1. Step 3: Use needle 1 and pick up 1 x 4 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille. Use needle 2 and pick up 1 x 4 mm pearl, 1 x 1 x 8º rocaille. Steps 4 & 5: Go through the opposite side 6 mm pearl in an opposite direction with both needles (criss cross). Pull the thread snug at all time. The beads added in steps 2 & 3 should lay snugly on top of the 6 mm pearls. Step 6: From now, you will only work with 1 needle. Pick up 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl and 1 x 8º rocaille. Go through the same pearl in an opposite direction as well as the 8º rocaille laying between the two 6 mm pearls and the next 6 mm pearl. Step 7: Pick up 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl and 1 x 8º rocaille. Go through the same pearl in an opposite direction as well as the 8º rocaille laying between the two 6 mm pearls and the next 6 mm pearl.

Steps 8 & 9: Repeat Step 7.

Step 2

Your work should look like a ╬. End off both threads by sewing criss cross through the beads a few times. You may make knots in-between to secure your work.

Step 8

Repeat Steps 1 to 9 to create a second ╬. Do not end off.

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 10: Attach the clusters as follows: use needle 1 and pick up 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille and go through the 4 mm pearl, 3 x 8º rocaille's, 1 x 4 mm pearl from the first cluster created. Pick up 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl, 1 x 8º rocaille and go through the 4 mm pearl, 3 x 8º rocaille's, 1 x 4 mm pearl from the cluster you have just created. Use needle 2 and go though all these beads in Step 10 an opposite direction. Repeat this a few times to secure your work. End off.

Step 9

Repeat Step 10 until you have Step 11 reached the desired length for your wrist keeping in mind that a standard size clasp measures ± 2 cm. Step 11: Add your clasp. Ensure that the beading thread exits between a rocaille and a pearl. Pick up 1 x 8º rocaille, 1 x 4 mm pearl, 3 x 8º rocaille, 1 side of the clasp, 2 x 8º rocaille's, go through the 8º rocaille added after the pearl, then pick up 1 x 4 mm pearl and 1 x 8º rocaille. Go through the rocaille between the two pearls, the pearl, 3 x rocaille's, the pearl and the rocaille where the thread exited. Repeat this a few times to secure your work. End off.

For any enquiries please phone: 012 3455466 Materials available at: Beads Direct cc SA Web: www.beadsdirect.co.za E-mail: [email protected]

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BEADING

Skill level: Beginner Created by: Christina Wynbergen of Beads Direct SA

REQUIREMENTS: • • • • •

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11º Miyuki rocaille beads 15º Miyuki rocaille beads 4 mm Swarovski bicone crystals Beading thread Beading needle

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Go through the 2nd to last bead, this is forming a point and the turn. Pick up 5 x 11º Miyuki rocaille's. Skip the next 5 beads of the previous column. Go through the 6th bead. Repeat this step 2x. Pick up 4 x 11º Miyuki rocaille's. Go through the 2nd to last bead to form the point and the turn.

Thread the needle on a comfortable length of beading thread. Pick up 2 x 11º Miyuki rocaille's, go through the first bead, this forms a point and the turn. Pick up a 22 x 11º Miyuki rocaille's. You should have a total of 24 beads. This is the first half of a column in the base.

Step 1

3

Step 2

4 Repeat step 2 until you have reached your wrist size, remember to add in the measurement of your clasp. This bracelet should fit relatively tight as it is a “cuff bracelet”.

Thread the needle with a comfortable length of beading thread. Go through a few beads to secure the end of the thread. Sew through the next few beads until you reach the 1st “open diamond”. Pick up 1 x 15º Miyuki rocaille, 1 x 4 mm Swarovski bicone crystal and 1 x 15º Miyuki rocaille. Go through the centre bead. Repeat this step until you reach the end of the row or the “point”. Sew through the point and down the next few beads until you reach the next “open diamond”. Repeat the above until you have filled all the “open diamonds”. End off by sewing zig zag through a few beads, cut off the remaining thread.

Add your clasp to both ends and sew all loose ends away.

Step 3

Step 4

For any enquiries please phone: 012 3455466 Materials available at: Beads Direct cc SA Web: www.beadsdirect.co.za E-mail: [email protected]

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BEADING

Skill level: Beginner Created by: Christina Wynbergen of Beads Direct SA

REQUIREMENTS: • • • • • • • •

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±135g 4 mm Miyuki magatama beads 9 m beading thread cut into 9 x 1 m pieces 1 x Big eye beading needle 4 x 3-hole 23 mm connectors 2 x 16 mm bead caps 2 x Head pins 2 x 6º seed beads 1 x Clasp

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1 Use 1 m thread and thread the needle. Pick up enough magatama beads until it measures 24 cm. Use another piece of thread and add enough magatama beads until it measures 25cm. Repeat the above and thread 7 more strings that measure: 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 and 32 cm.

2 Use the 3 strands that measure 24, 25 and 26 cm. Thread all three stands through the big eye needle. Thread through the first hole of the connector. Add 10 magatama beads and thread through the second connector out at the side. Add 50 beads. Remove the needle and add a bead stopper. Repeat the above on the opposite side.

3 Use the 3 strands that measure 27, 28 and 29 cm. Thread all three strands, together through the big eye needle. Thread through the centre hole of the connector. Add 10 magatama beads and thread through the second connector out at the middle. Add 50 beads. Remove the needle and add to the bead stopper. Repeat on the opposite side.

4 Use the remaining 3 strands that measure 30, 31 and 32 cm. Thread all three strands together through the big eye needle. Thread through the third hole of the connector. Add 10 magatama beads and thread through the second connector at the third hole. Add 50 beads. Remove the needle and add to the bead stopper. Repeat on the opposite side.

5 Remove the bead stopper; use 1 x head pin, add a 6º seed bead to the head pin. Knot all 9 strands around the head pin. Slide the knot to the bottom and add glue to the knot. Leave to dry and cut the ends off. Add the bead cap, make an eye and add the one part of your clasp.

6 Remove the bead stopper. Slide all the beads down ensuring that there are no spaces in between the beads. Use 1 x head pin, add a 6º seed bead to the head pin. Knot all 9 strands around the head pin. Slide the knot to the bottom and add glue to the knot. Leave to dry and cut the ends off. Add the bead cap, make an eye and add the second part of your clasp.

For any enquiries please phone: 012 3455466 Materials available at: Beads Direct cc SA Web: www.beadsdirect.co.za E-mail: [email protected]

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MIXED MEDIA

REQUIREMENTS: • •

• • • • • •

Canvas Acrylic paint in Prussian blue, cerulean blue, magenta and white Paintbrushes Old toothbrush Poem, lyrics and wind pump pattern on pattern sheet Wood glue Fine permanent black pen Dressmaker’s carbon or Saral transfer paper

by Hannalie Hurter

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1 Draw, then paint the mountain with cerulean blue. Paint the sky starting at the top with Prussian blue and blending into cerulean blue. Paint the foreground with cerulean blue.

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Photocopy the lyric text on the pattern sheet. Tear into strips and paste onto canvas with wood glue to represent the “veld” area of the landscape.

Trace the wind pump onto the left hand side of the canvas. Make sure that the legs go over the strips of text.

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Paint the wind pump with cerulean blue.

Shade with Prussian blue.

Shade in between the strips of text with Prussian blue. I used my finger to shade the paint while it was still wet. I also shaded the mountains in the background using my finger.

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Mix some watery white paint. Dip the toothbrush in and spatter onto the top of the canvas (stars).

Copy and trace the poem onto the canvas. You can use dressmaker’s carbon or Saral transfer paper for this.

Line and fill the poem with the permanent black pen.

2 Paint the sunset behind the mountain with magenta. Add a small amount of white as you blend into the light blue (cerulean blue).

Leave to dry flat, otherwise the spatters might run.

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MIXED MEDIA

Multi Media Memories

By Delancé La Mont, Sharné Smit & Denelda Van Der Westhuizen For Creative Talents Craft Shop – Head Office Tel: 016 427 1030

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REQUIREMENTS: • • • • • • • • • •

Large wooden canvas Sheet of glitter paper Scrapbook paper of your choice Craft paint to match your paper colour choice Assorted wooden frames in different shapes and sizes Small wooden canvas (used upside down Wooden bunting Wooden stars Craft glue Glue gun

• • • • • • • • • • •

Podge Paintbrushes: assorted Glitter Nail file Ruler Craft knife Rubber roller (brayer) Resin rose Wooden alphabet letters Bunny cut outs Embellishments of your choice

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Get a feel for your layout and plan what you would like to use where on your large wooden canvas. Tip: take a photo of your layout to help you later in the project.

We decided to do a colour blocking technique for the background. Start with the large canvas and apply a coat of craft glue on the area where you are going to stick your background paper.

We repeated this on the other side of the canvas with glitter paper. Again applying craft glue and rolling it with the rubber roller.

Place the paper on the wet craft glue and roll over it with the rubber roller. Use pressure when doing this to remove any air bubbles.

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Now you can start painting and adding the elements to your canvas. We painted our upside down canvas with black craft paint.

Now measure the inside of the canvas and cut the scrapbook paper to size.

We used a “&” as a wooden letter in our design. Paint the letter with craft paint we used white as a basecoat and then yellow as our main colour.

Apply craft glue to the inside of the canvas and stick the scrapbook paper in place. Set it aside for now.

Tip: using white as a basecoat for the yellow – the yellow is just so much more brighter.

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We wanted to elevate the letter from our background – so we used acrylic beads to lift the letter. Stick three acrylic beads to the back of the painted letter.

Apply glue to the beads and stick it in the canvas we prepared earlier.

Next we painted the deco frame with black craft paint and allowed it to dry. Apply a coat of podge to the frame and, while it's still wet, pour black glitter over. Allow it to set for a few minutes and then remove the excess glitter.

10 Now using the larger frame, paint the edges with craft paint. We used mint. Now apply a coat of craft glue onto the frame. Place the scrapbook paper over it and roll over it with the rubber roller.

13 Paint the large bunny cut out's edges black. Apply a coat of craft glue on the bunny and place onto back of scrapbook paper. Rollwith a rubber roller.

11 Remove the excess paper with a craft knife and then smooth the edges with an old nail file. Paint a smaller wooden frame with yellow craft paint and glue a scrapbook paper strip on one side.

14 This is the stage where you need to fill the frames with your photos. We used bunting, stars and chipboard words as embellishments.

12 We painted another small frame black and allowed to dry. Apply a coat of craft glue to the front of the frame and place some scrapbook paper in the frame. Remove the excess paper with a nail file.

15 To get a sense of where we're going we placed all our elements back onto the main canvas. When you're happy with what you see, start sticking everything in place using a glue gun and craft glue where needed. Insert photos into a chosen frame then glue the frame in place. Now add all the embellishments and knick-knacks. Allow time for glue to dry.

Remove the excess paper with a nail file.

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Hang and enjoy!

GLASS FUSING

REQUIREMENTS:

by Heather & Stanley Micallef of Dragon Glass.cc

Tools and materials • Glass cutter and grozing pliers • Grindstone • Sifters for enamel • 2 mm glass pieces - If you cannot get 2 mm, 3 mm glass is also suitable. NOTE - you cannot use non-reflective picture glass, as it does not fire with a clear finish. • Enamel powders • Frit for decoration • Paint Medium and PreFire glue • Cheap hairspray - unscented is best • Marking pen • Small, fine paintbrush • 1.2 mm thick copper wire • Wire cutters and chain nose pliers • Thin wooden dowel sticks

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Preparation

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Cut a piece of the 1.2 mm thick copper wire about 30 cm long. Bend it in half and close the loop as shown. Cut one for each item you are making.

Copy the pattern pieces from the back of the magazine. We will start with the chick shape, as it has some fairly deep curves which are harder to cut and break out. Place the glass over the pattern, and mark the chick outlines with a felt pen.

Apply 2 thin coats of warm glass kiln wash to the kiln shelf. Dry by setting the kiln on to your firing glass schedule, but do not let it heat over 400 degrees C! Switch off the kiln and let it cool.

Cutting the glass chick 1

2

3

Cut lines need to run from one edge of the glass and off the other edge to get a clean break as shown.

Cut the second line, and do not be too worried about keeping within the lines, as this is will round off in the firing.

This is a tricky cut as it is quite a deep curve inwards. Score the cut, then turn the piece of glass over.

Score and break off the first piece.

The tiny bump left can be nibbled off with grozing pliers.

Tap gently along the score line with the little ball end of the cutter.

4

Watch to see the cut opening, it catches the light as it does!

Score and break the next piece, taking care to ensure the beak does not break off too! Score and break off the last piece. Any small bumps left can be nibbled off. Finish by cleaning off the sharp edges with the grindstone.

You need two layers of glass, so you need to cut another chick. Place the cut piece on another square of glass, and draw around it with your marking pen. This will ensure the second layer of glass is the same shape as the first. Score the cut lines INSIDE the pen mark, or the piece will be too large! Cut a small wing shape for your chick. Cut more chicks as required.

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Turn the glass back over to the right side, and gently prise the piece off with the grozing pliers. Tidy up the small bump to round the curve.

The bunny 1

2

3

Cut and break the first 4 sections as marked.

Score section 5, turn over and tap to run the score, turn back over to right side and break out.

Trace the bunny and mark the sections.

4

5

Trim off the last small foot piece and any little bumps.

Run the grindstone around all the cut edges of the pieces to dull the sharpness, so that you can handle them safely.

Cut an ear and tail for your bunny. Cut a bottom layer for all your pieces.

Easter egg The Easter egg can be cut as shown, remembering cuts always begin and end at the edge of the glass.

Wash all the glass pieces very well to remove any oil residue from cutting, and oily fingerprints.

Adding the colour 1

2

3

To emphasize the beak and wing feathers on the chick, use diluted paint medium to "draw" the outlines with a fine paintbrush. Sift black enamel over the wet areas, let dry, and tap off the excess.

Fill in the rest of the beak with paint medium, and sift over red or orange enamel, let dry and tap off excess again. The feathers can be added to the wing in the same way!

Spray the whole chick with hairspray, and sift over the yellow enamel. Let dry, tap off excess and turn over to see your chick.

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4

5

6

Colour the wing the same way. Here we have also added a little amber frit to the tail, using PreFire glue to hold it in place, as well as a piece of larger black frit for the eye.

This chick has only had the red enamel sifted over the beak area using hairspray, and then orange on the tail. A couple of lines scratched into the enamel on the tail add a little interest and can be seen once the yellow enamel has been added.

The Easter eggs are fun to decorate! Here we have painted paint medium in bands and sifted over red enamel. Then the small lines have been added and enamelled with dark blue. Finally the whole egg was coloured with two shades of pink.

7

8

To decorate the bunny, place your glass over the pattern, and using the paint medium and black enamel. Add the nose, whiskers, neck and leg lines. Also add a line and some fluff to the ear piece.

Use hairspray to add the first darker colour to the bunny face and feet.

Assemble your pieces in the kiln. Place the base clear glass down, add a dot of PreFire glue to the bottom, and position the wire loop about 1 cm in from the bottom as shown here. Let this dry as much as you can, so as to make it easier to position the top coloured pieces. Place the coloured top piece carefully over the base, lining it up as best as possible. Make sure the wings or ears are still in the correct position!

Arrange the pieces carefully so the wires are spaced between them. You can see we have decorated some with frit dots, and bright colours. Fire the kiln using the schedule. After firing a final Easter egg was added on the right using bubble powder and frit! The small black spots you can see around the wire is the oxidation popping off after cooling. This is nothing to worry about, it always happens with copper wire! The wire is also very soft after firing, so handle it carefully until you can harden it by running a cloth down the length a few times, This not only removes a lot of the black coating, but "work" hardens the wire. Give it a final polish with fine sandpaper.

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Firing Schedule

To add the next colour, you need to spray quite heavily with the hairspray, but not quite dripping wet! Sift over the enamel, let dry and tap off as before. Turn over to see your cute bunny. Place the ear, add a small tail piece enamelled white, and a piece of frit for the eye.

KiIn with Computer Controller Leave the lid of the kiln open about 2 cm at the beginning of the firing, until the hairspray and glue has burned off. You can usually close the kiln at about 400 °C. Programmable kilns use the following schedule: First ramp - 425 °C per hour to 500 °C Second ramp - 503 °C per hour to 835 °C (Those at sea level fire to 795 °C - or watch through spyhole to see when properly fused) Hold for 5 minutes Firing down - 300 °C per hour to room temperature - approximately 30 °C If your kiln is well insulated and does not cool faster than 300 °C per hour, you can switch it off after the 5 minute hold time, and let it cool naturally. For those who only have an energy

controller on their kiln - fire as follows: Set controller on low for one hour with the lid slightly open to burn off the hairspray. Turn to medium for an hour, or until temperature reads 400 °C. Close the kiln, and turn to high, but make sure the rate of climb is no more than 425 °C per hour. Check every 10 minutes or so till 835 °C is reached (or 795 °C as above). Hold for 5 minutes, then switch off and allow to cool to room temperature. If your kiln cools too quickly, you may have to switch it on again at 600°C and hold at this temperature for 30 minutes, before switching off. It should not cool faster than 300 °C per hour.

There are a few ways of using your Easter creatures. The 2 wires can be twisted together for a shorter tail to push into a pot to add colour when there are no flowers. They could also be wired onto a trellis, or a strong creeper for fun.

1

2

3

To attach the wire onto a short dowel stick, first file a small angled slot in the end of the stick, as shown here .

Then twist the two wires together a couple of times just below the glass. Place the wire against the stick, and pressing one piece into the slot, twist it tightly around the stick twice, trapping the other wire against the other side of the stick..

Then wind each wire around the stick, above and below this point, and end with a small spiral. Pinch down hard against the stick with the pliers to secure.

These can be pushed into flower boxes, or even into flower arrangements. Have fun deciding! Tools, enamels, frit, bubble powder, PreFire Glue, Paint Medium and Warm Glass Kiln Wash are available from Dragon Glass cc. Contact Stan or Heather on 0118496430, or 0824572951. e-mail [email protected] If you wish to learn more about glass fusing, our comprehensive DVDs are available to teach you all you need to know.

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31

LAMPWORK

lampwork charms Project by Glass and Fire

We used our charms to create a charm necklace and a bag charm. Tutorial: Beginner – requires some experience in glass bead making

REQUIREMENTS: • • • • •

32

Basic bead making equipment (torch, safety glasses, etc) 2.4 mm mandrel coated with bead release Shaping tool Tweezers Effetre colours used: rods of dark ivory and light lemon yellow and different stringers of your choice.

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1

2

3

To make the decorated egg bead:

Heat the glass while rotating the mandrel until the glass is evenly balanced and smooth. Point the mandrel upwards and use gravity to move the glass towards the bottom so that the bead resembles an egg shape.

Add more glass to the top of the bead, so that the top of the egg is more rounded and doesn't end in a sharp point.

Start by applying a footprint of glass onto the mandrel ±12 mm wide. Add more layers of glass to create an egg shape.

4

5

Add lines and dots in various colours to decorate the egg. Heat the decoration until glowing and flatten using a shaping tool. Repeat the heating and flattening until everything is smooth.

Fire-polish in the back of the flame, then let the bead cool out of the flame until it is no longer glowing and place in a preheated kiln to anneal at 520 degrees Celcius.

Melting the decoration in this way will help you to preserve the egg shape.You will lose the bead shape if the whole bead gets too hot.

6

7

8

To make the hatched egg bead: Start by applying a footprint of glass onto the mandrel ±10 mm wide. Add more layers of glass to create the bottom half of an egg shape.

Heat the glass while turning the mandrel until the glass is evenly balanced and smooth. Point the mandrel upwards and use gravity to move the glass towards the bottom so that the bead resembles half an egg shape.

Add lines and dots in various colours to decorate the egg, melting in as before.

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33

9 Add glass onto the mandrel right above the half egg with the light lemon yellow. Add more layers of glass to create a doughnut shape bead for the body of the hatched chick. Heat the new glass until glowing, then point the mandrel upward and allow gravity to move the yellow glass down until it attaches to and sits on top of the half egg bead.

12 To create the eyes: spot one side of the head with a thin black stringer, poking into the blob to create the eye socket. Wait for the glass to stiffen up, then wiggle the stringer until it breaks off to leave a black spot for the eye. Repeat on the opposite side.

15 Tip: To create a sharp beak, heat the dot, then out of the flame, touch the dot with the hot stringer point and pull away slowly, creating a sharp beak.

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10 Spot heat one side of the yellow doughnut and add a blob of yellow onto the upper side of the bead to form the chick's head.

13 Using a light brown or red stringer, add 3 tiny dots on top of the head to form the comb. Heat these until properly attached, but don't melt it flat!

16 Add a small blob in yellow for the tail and use the tweezers to flatten.

11 Hang the head blob down and heat until glowing, then remove from the flame and allow to cool, turning it upwards after a second or two to form a nice round head sitting on the doughnut bead. It takes practise to know exactly how long to let it hang or when to turn the bead up to form the head. Be prepared to try a few times until you get it just right!

14 With light brown or red stringer, add one dot to form the beak.

17 Now add random dots of dark ivory around the chick on the top edge of the egg. Heat, flatten and use the shaping tool to shape to resemble points of a broken shell.

MASA 2015 COMMUNITY SERVICE PROJECT18 Tip: Use the same technique for sharpening the beak to create sharp points of broken eggshell.

FOR KIDS WITH

CANCER

in support of LITTLE FIGHTERS CANCER TRUST Mosaic Association South Africa has launched its 5th national community service project in support of Little Fighters Cancer Trust.

19 Fire-polish in the back of the flame, then let the bead cool out of the flame until it is no longer glowing and place in a pre-heated kiln to anneal at 520 degrees Celcius .

20 Use headpins, beadcaps and findings of your choice to turn the beads into charms, then use as desired.

The project invites mosaic artists and crafters to create a butterfly in mosaic. This could be either a 20×20 cm wood base or butterfly cut-out (not to exceed 40 cm) and to be mosaiced in bright, cheerful colours. These mosaics will then be displayed at entrance halls to oncology and wards that look after children with cancer. Although a gold ribbon depicts childhood cancer, there are 12 different cancers, each represented by a different colour (information available on the LFCT website) It may make it more meaningful for the participants to choose their favourite colours and know which childhood cancer they are supporting. Participants would also be requested to donate R50 with their butterfly, because although the mosaics are pretty to look at, do not buy essentials for the care and support of young cancer patients. Children under the age of 18 who create a butterfly mosaic will not be requested to also make a cash donation unless they wish to. The project will be completed at the end of August 2015. The mosaics will be uploaded to the MASA website and members asked to vote for their favourites. The Top 20 will form part of the annual MASA Mosaic Exhibition to be held in Johannesburg during October 2015.

Mosaic Association South Africa www.mosaicassociation.co.za

Little Fighters Cancer Trust www.littlefighters.org.za

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MIXED MEDIA

1 Cover the whole box with one or two layers of gesso. It seals the box and prevents glue and paint from soaking into the box. It also gives the surface a little more texture for the tiles and paint to adhere.

2 Choose some tiles in the same size but different colours and cut them in triangles. Do a triangle design alternating the colours. Decide where to start with your design and attach with wood glue to the lid of the box ,keeping your grout line narrow.

Insert some of the small flowers or hearts as part of your design and do some areas without inserts.

By Petro Strijdom for Trunell crafts

3

REQUIREMENTS: • Blank wooden box • Gesso • A selection of glass tiles, all your left overs and some more • Square handmade ceramic insert tiles • Small ceramic flowers and hearts • Wheeled nipper • Dove grey grout • Wood glue

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• • • • •

Rubber kidney for grouting Black craft paint, I used Americana Paintbrush Decorative metal corners -optional Glossy accents to glue corners to box • Clear lacquer spray to varnish painted sides

Cut some tiles into smaller squares or use bought squares. Fill one area with these tiles. See main photo for an example.

4

5

6

Continue cutting the tiles into triangles, squares, rectangles of all different sizes. Continue filling the lid with different patterns. Don’t forget to insert some of the ceramic tiles as they add interest.

You can also use a design with whole tiles and triangles to create a new square block (a bit like a square in a square block in quilting!)

Mix the grout as per manufacturer's instructions until you get the consistency of toothpaste.

Work the grout over the tiles with a rubber kidney or your hand, making sure the grout fills all the spaces. Remove the excess grout from the surface of the mosaic before completing the grouting.

7

8

9

Use a toothpick or old toothbrush to clean the grout around the inserts.

Use black craft paint and paint the edges of the lid as well as the box. If you wish, you can paint the box in a different colour - I used black because I preferred it. Allow to dry.

Varnish the painted sides of the box. Allow to dry. Glue the metal corners to the box using the glossy accents. I find that letting it stand a bit with the glossy accents to get tacky help it adhere better.

Use a paper towel to clean the rest of the grout from the tiles and then polish it with a soft cloth to a shine. Allow to dry.

Enter to win R500 worth of Trunell ceramic inserts from our online store by: liking our Facebook page: Trunell mosaic, joining our email list at www.trunell.co.za or Sending us a picture of your completed mosaic box using Trunell ceramic inserts on your box together with your name, surname and town of residence before April 21, 2015. The winner will be announced in the next issue of Craftwise. And the winner of our Spring has Sprung, Summer is Here competition is Joanne Louw of Johannesburg!

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37

POLYMER CLAY

cake topper Let us celebrate Easter with a festive bunny cake topper. This bunny is special because the it’s made from polymer clay and will live forever!!

REQUIREMENTS: • • • • • • • • • •

38

Polymer clay: white, black and four pastel colours Glass or ceramic tile to work and bake on Stanley blade Indenting tool Needle Glamour powder Brush Micro glass beads Fimo gel or wood glue Oven to bake

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You do not need special or expensive tools to create beautiful polymer pieces. A Stanley blade with a little baked on handle works perfectly. Bake handles on a selection of needles and sock knitting needles - these make the best indenting tools. If you do not have micro glass beads and Fimo gel, you can use plastic beads and wood glue diluted with a little water. You can use any eye make up or powdered food colouring instead of glamour powder. Most importantly…don’t forget to have fun. Remember to keep your hands very clean when working with white clay.

1

Roll the white clay into a uniform sized log. Cut into 4 equal parts. Divide one part and add one piece to any of the other pieces. Roll into balls. The large ball will form the body. One medium ball will be the legs and one will be the head and ears. The little ball becomes the arms. I teach the “two in one” method, where one piece of clay becomes two, this makes it much easier to judge size. Roll the body ball into a teardrop (not too pointy). Roll the leg ball into a log then cut in half . Holding between your index finger and thumb, press the feet upwards with your other finger. (When you assemble and the legs are too long, cut a piece of on the cut side). Form the arms the same way with the smallest ball.

2

Roll into a string and cut a quarter of it off. Set aside for the ears. Roll the head ball into a teardrop and let it rest between your fingers, do not hold too firmly. Draw lines and indent eye sockets.

Roll a tiny piece of black clay. Cut in half and roll into two little eyes. With your needle pick up the eyes and place into the eye sockets (do not poke or press with your finger, you do not want a blind bunny).

Flatten and “stitch” with your needle.

With your indenting tool, curve the ears and press on either side of bunny’s head.

Roll a pink little nose and press onto her face. Roll ear clay into a log with pointy ends, flatten and cut in half. Roll a smaller piece of pink clay the same way and lay it on top of the white clay.

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3

5

Roll a log of clay and flatten between your finger (keep in mind the clay can stretch you do this - so dit it very gently). You need a very thin piece for the ribbon.

Gently press the cut sides of the legs and arms on the tile to flatten slightly. Place on either side of the body and press gently. Place head on shoulders and say “Hallo” to your beautiful bunny.

Fold a piece over to resemble a folded silk ribbon. Wrap around bunny’s head and set some aside for the Easter eggs. Make a bow by folding as a “Aids” ribbon, bring the middle down and form your bow. Gently place it on bunny’s head and finish the centre with a piece of the folded ribbon.

4 Make small pink buttons and attach to the shoulder joints. Roll a piece of Pink clay into a log divide and roll two balls (buttons), flatten slightly with your fingertip , then indent with your indenting tool to form little buttons. Poke two holes with your needle and add a tiny string of white clay to resemble the cotton.

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6

Roll different size and colour balls into egg shapes. Make ribbons and little daisies and decorate the eggs. When done dust with glamour powder and place on bunny’s lap. Gently press her arms around eggs so that she holds the eggs.

7

Roll a thin string of pastel colour clay. Cut 8 small pieces and gently roll on your tile with your fingertip, it will form little petals. Build a cross with a tiny opening in the center and fill in the gaps with the rest of the petals. Take a thick needle and indent each petal. Lift the daisy with your blade off the tile, holding it at an angle.

8 Bake for 40 minutes at 130 ° Celsius. Always let your work cool completely before handling. If using micro glass beads and Fimo gel, add a small drop of Fimo gel in the centre of each flower. Wet a toothpick with a little gel (the beads will be easier to handle) and place a few beads in each flower centre. Bake for 10 more minutes. If you use plastic beads and wood glue, you do not have to bake again. The same applies to glass beads - just use wood glue and no baking.

Send your entry by fax, post or even email, just please include your name, postal address and LANGUAGE PREFERENCE. FAX:

Photocopy this page and fax to 086 508 8677. or POST: Photocopy this page and post to: Sudoku 102, Craftwise, PO Box 193, Mossel Bay, 6500. or EMAIL: Send a list of the missing numbers in sequence from left to right, top to bottom. No spaces between numbers. (e.g. 37615498289567...) Send to [email protected]. Subject: sudoku 102

Have a wonderful and a blessed Easter Till next time… lots of love Manda Classes are available countrywide Manda Theart Cell nr 083 226 1521 email:[email protected] please visit my Etsy Shop online

SUDOKU SUDOKU 102

Entries must reach us by 30 April 2015. Only ONE entry per person please.

THREE LUCKY WINNERS will each receive a copy of “Sew Useful ” or "So nuttig" by Debbie Shore with the compliments of

METZ PRESS www.metzpress.co.za CRAFT • GARDENING • PARENTING • LIFE

The winners of Sudoku 100 are: Miep Morris, Glenstantia • Ingrid Tubb, Bothasig • Maxie Naude, Britstown. Congratulations, your books are already on their way to you!

9 3 6 8 3 9 5 6 9 6 5 3 8 6 1 8 2 5 7 8

1 3 9 7 6 2

2 4 1 7 7 9 1 3 6 4 2 6 2 1 9

8 2 3 9 1 5 4

Your name: _____________________________________________ Address: _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ Email:________________________________________________ Cell no: ___________________________________________ Language preference: ENG AFR

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41

SCULPTING

by Marietjie Breet

Making air dry clay

REQUIREMENTS: • • • • • • •

42

Wire and Bonsai or soldering wire Aluminum foil Masking tape Air dry clay (see recipe alongside) Basic sculpting tools Wooden block ± 15 cm square Craft paint and paintbrushes

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• Really cheap toilet paper (pulped so that you have 1¼ cups) • 1 cup joint compound from the hardware store (get pre-mixed “regular,” not “fast set” or “light”) • 3/4 cup wood glue • 1/2 cup white flour • 2 tablespoons linseed oil (or vegetable oil) • A dash of Milton sterilising liquid (stops it getting mouldy) How to make the clay Remove the core of the toilet paper and place in a bucket. Add warm water and cover paper completely. Leave for a while to soak. Squeeze out the water and throw water away -you just want the soggy paper. Break up the soggy mass into bits with your fingers. Add all the other ingredients to the bucket. Stir with a wooden spoon or stick so that everything mixes thoroughly. Now you might need to add a little bit more joint compound to get a nice, smooth consistency - this you will have to judge by feel. Store any leftovers in an airtight container and the clay will keep for a few weeks.

1

2

3

Form a length of wire into a stick figure by folding it in half and twisting it together to form a loop at the top for the head. Take in consideration how tall you want to make the figure.

Start shaping the body with aluminum foil. Don’t add too much or you will end up with a chubby shape.

Wrap tightly with masking tape.

4

5

Add another piece of wire for the arms. Refer to human proportions diagram on pattern pages to get an idea of measurements.

Start adding thin layers of air dry clay, building the shape of the body as you go. Try to keep the finish as smooth as possible.

Lastly add the face and hair.

Wrap with softer more pliable wire like Bonsai wire or soldering wire. Don't go up to the ends of the feet or hands as it will be too bulky.

When the clay is almost dry to the touch start adding finer detail like the calves, bust and bottom.

Leave to dry completely. Paint with a light grey or colour of your choice and leave to dry again. Dry-brush with a darker shade making sure not to add too much paint. It’s easier to build up the colour than to remove the colour if you have added too much! Once dry, seal with a matt craft sealant and leave to dry again. Stain or paint the base. When everything is dry and sealed, put a drop of glue in each hole and the bottom of the feet and reposition the figure on the base. Leave to dry completely before moving it to where you want it display

Drill holes in a wooden block and position the figure on it - this makes it easier to work with.

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43

SCULPTING

Use air dry clay recipe on previous page.

1

2

Cover a stone with scrap paper and roll into a ball.

Add more paper and shape into a bunny. Cover with brown gum paper and allow to dry. Now add the air dry clay and shape further into a bunny.

3 Press where the ears will attach. Shape the two ears and press in place. Allow to dry thoroughly then paint with colour of choice. Your bunny is ready to stand guard at the door!

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MIXED MEDIA

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REQUIREMENTS:

• • • • •

1 •

Bowl for a mould Plastic wrap (clingwrap) Wood glue diluted 1:1 with water Brush Different materials to make the bowl: I used tissue paper, used tea bags with the tea removed, and plaster of Paris bandages Chalk

Optional additions Serviette with interesting pattern • Foil and glue • Gold leaf and size/glue • Paint • Gel pen in gold or your choice of colour • Cover the underside of the bowl/s with cling film and then paint with watered down wood glue.

3

2

Continue adding layers of the glue and material until the bowl is quite sturdy. The amount of layers will depend on the thickness of what you are using, i.e.., tissue paper will need more layers than tea bags.

Cover with a layer of your choice of material – tea bags are shown in the above example.

4

5

4. Once you have built up enough layers, finish off the edges by cutting neatly or, if possible, tearing away the excess.

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When finished, lift the bowl off the mould, remove the plastic and allow to dry thoroughly.

For more information please contact Monique 083 458 3396 or Angie 082 228 2220 www.moniquedaywilde.co.za and www.facebook/moniquedaywildeatart www.angiefranke.com www.facebook/art&aboutatangiefranke

The bowls can be finished off in various ways 6

7

Colour the bowl slightly with a wash of colour – I used pale pinks and blues. The example below is the tissue paper bowl though I did the same on the one made with plaster of Paris bandage.

Add a pretty pattern torn from a serviette – glue in place as if it were another layer.

8

9

This can be further embellished by adding more lines with a gel pen.

10

To add foil detail as I did on the plaster of Paris bowl, draw a pattern with chalk, trace it with a glue pen and allow to dry tacky.

11

To add a metal leaf detail, draw a pattern in chalk and fill in with stencil glue or size. Stick the foil to the glue and lift of: the foil will stick to the glue lines only. If the foil doesn't adhere well, repeat, placing the foil onto the glue in a slightly different position and lift again.

*

Other ideas to use to make the bowls include skeleton leaves, hand-made paper, lace, string, yarn, coffee filters, confetti, recycled paper, and anything else you can glue down!

When the glue has dried tacky, place the gold leaf onto it and press lightly. When it has adhered, brush the excess away with a stiff brush. Sprinkle your hands with talcum powder to stop the gold leaf sticking to them.

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Make a unique gift box for Easter gifts using the Brother ScanNCut machine and a Brother embroidery machine!

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REQUIREMENTS: • • • • • •

Brother ScanNCut machine Brother V3 Embroidery machine Embroidery 10 cm x 10 cm hoop Embroidery threads of own choice Scrapbooking paper of own choice Felt to embroider on

3 Take a ruler and fold all the pieces that need folding and measure window area that needs to be cut out.

1

2

Photocopy Pdf template of the box on the pattern sheet (enlarge by 50%). Place paper template on the standard mat and scan into the ScanNCut machine (scan to cut).

Save the design. Open pattern and clean up the design you are cutting out. Use the low tack mat, cutting blade 3 – 3.5 and pressure 0. Cut out the box.

4 At the embroidery machine hoop a piece of felt in a 10 cm x 10 cm hoop. (No stabilizer is being used).

Now you can start to embroider. After the first border is finished remove the hoop and make sure the border fits inside the window.

Open the borders icon on your machine and choose a square patterned border. Size it till it is just smaller than the window in the box. Add a design and size it smaller so that it fits inside the border. Now add another border, square but with just a single outline and make it about 5 mm bigger than first one.

5 Continue with embroidery until the last step. Remove the hoop. Tape some thin doublesided tape all around the back of the window and place it firmly over the embroidery. Replace the hoop and stitch the last step on the slowest speed.

6 Remove from the hoop and cut closely around the stitches to remove excess fabric. Fold the box and glue together. Embellish as preferred.

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49

STAINED GLASS

A treat that lasts Easter is almost upon us, and we all look forward to those sweet treats. Lets make a bowl for the treats that can be used for years to come!

Gwen Young of Classic Stained Glass -Port Elizabeth Cell: 082 385 2230

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REQUIREMENTS: Tools • Glass cutter • Running pliers • Grozier pliers • Glass grinder • Lengths of straight bar for the jig. Thin aluminium strips work best with holes drilled at regular intervals for pins • 100W Soldering iron • Soldering Iron controller if your soldering iron does not have a built in thermostat to regulate the temperature.

1

2

a) Using the bowl template, cut out 2 panels face up and 2 panels face down from the stained glass.

Grind your pieces matching them up to the template you have used to cut them out using the jig for the bowl.

b) Using the bunny template cut out the pieces remembering to number them.

NB – If your soldering iron gets too hot, the glass can crack during the soldering process. • Cutting board to cut your glass pieces (a ceiling board offcut is ideal) • Lathekin (for ironing out the copper foil once it is applied to the glass pieces). • Sharpie pen • Prestik • Craft knife • Laminated template pattern This is not a traditional pattern where you have a few pieces that are numbered, but two separate items Bowl: One piece that you need to cut out 4 times (2 facing up and 2 face down) Bunny: Traditional numbered piece • Newspapers for easier cleaning up as you go along. • Safety glasses if you don't wear specs.

3

4

Once you have ground the all the pieces use the ¼ inch black copper foil to foil around each one.

Solder the pieces together. Starting with the bowl, replace in the jig to keep correct shape, paint with flux on join lines and spot solder. This is done by dropping blobs of solder to keep pieces in place, do this with all sides of the bowl. Then repeat process with the bunny.

Use the lathekin to iron out any creases. If it is slightly uneven, use a craft knife to trim the foil.

Other materials • Stained glass of your choice. You can use one colour for the bowl or make a multi coloured bowl. Colours for the bunny and loose eggs if desired • 1 large jump ring if you wish to turn the bunny into a sun catcher. • ¼ inch black back copper foil • Solder • Flux • Patina: black or copper.

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5 Hold two bowl pieces next to one another at 90° angle, making sure the top ends of the two pieces line up. Spot solder these together. This means you need to add some flux to the join and just drop a couple of blobs of solder onto the join to keep the pieces together but in such a way that you can adjust them if you need to. Spot solder the other pieces into place, going all around until all four of the sides are joined together. There will be a square opening in the bottom. Now place the bowl on a piece of glass (can be same as the bowl, clear or mirror) and trace carefully around the bowl. Cut, grind and foil as before. Spot solder in place. Remember to do the inside and the outside of the bowl. Now you can solder the seams that you have spot soldered by melting the blobs into the seams.

6 Now do the bunny. Remember to bead the seams on the bunny, this is done by turning your soldering iron on its side and raising the lead into a rounded shape. Add more solder if needed.

7 Patina the edges of your items. Leave the patina on for a while to soak in properly and rinse again.

Rinse the pieces in soapy (Sunlight) water to which a teaspoon of bicarbonate soda has been added. Dry the pieces carefully and thoroughly.

TIP: Once your project is dry, take a soft cloth and clean it with methylated spirits. It helps to remove the oily residue left behind by the flux (and fingerprints!).

TIPS: Safety is important when working with stained glass. Always wear safety specs when cutting and grinding. If you wear specs normally, these are usually sufficient protection. Use a small scoop and brush to regularly clean your work surface. Do not be tempted to use your hand. When soldering remember: Everything that is silver is HOT.

Paint bunny's eye on either side with acrylic craft paint or with a permanent marker Polish with spray furniture polish for a lovely shine and protective layer.

TIP: If you live at the coast, wait 24 hours to polish as we have found that it allows the patina to set in better.

Place Easter eggs or other sweets into the bowl, set bunny on top amongst the eggs and admire it all year round. Refill with sweets as desired... it makes a lovely display. Do not place unwrapped sweets in the bowl, unless you silicone the soldered joins, as the solder contains lead.

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MIXED MEDIA By Cher Manning

LADY RAINBOW NUGGETS Think of all the compliments you will get when you switch this lamp on. Your Lady Rainbow Nuggets is a unique, eye catching décor piece! CRAFTWISE

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1 •

Secondhand shop mannequin (about 70 cm high)

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Light fittings (globe and attachments, switch, plug etc.)

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Base (optional)

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26 packets 250 g mixed small nuggets *

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4 packets 250 g large black nuggets

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2 tubes silicone

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Tile adhesive

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Bonding liquid

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Acetone

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Pencil

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Paint pemover

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Paintbrush

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Putty knife/paint stripping tool

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Sandpaper

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Black grout, mixing tub and spatula

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Old ballpoint pen or wooden chopsticks

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Newspaper

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Small scrubbing brush with nylon bristles

*

Because the bags of mixed nuggets do not have equal amounts of the same colours in each bag, I needed 40

The mannequin was painted a horrible brown/beige colour and because I wanted the translucent fibreglass as a base, it was first necessary to remove all the paint. Make sure that your paint remover will not affect the fibreglass base and follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions (gloves etc.) Apply liberal amounts of paint stripper to the mannequin using the paintbrush. Wait a few minutes for the paint to bubble then scrape it off with the putty knife or paint stripper tool. Difficult areas may need a number of attempts before all the paint is removed and you may need to use sandpaper to remove the last little bits of paint. When all the paint has been removed to your satisfaction, wash the mannequin with warm soapy water to remove the last of the dust. Make a slurry (very runny mixture) of tile adhesive and bonding liquid and apply 2 or 3 coats to the mannequin, leaving each application to dry thoroughly before applying the next coat.

packets to sort them and be able to have the same quantity of each of the 9 colours

2

This will create rough surface to give the silicone additional grip. Using a pencil, draw the outline of your design/pattern directly onto the mannequin to serve as guidelines for the application of the nuggets. (Photo below right.)

Working with silicone is a messy business at the best of times, but if you keep your work area clean as you go along, it does help. When you press down on a nugget to glue it in place with silicone, more often than not, the silicone will ooze out the sides. Use your craft knife to remove the excess. If you miss cleaning up and later find that the silicone has hardened, use your craft knife to slice away the hardened piece, instead of pulling at it as all that achieves is to have it snap back as it is now very elastic. Use a small amount of acetone (nail polish remover) on a rough cloth to remove silicone which may land on top of the nuggets and will attract dust and dirt.

Member of Mosaic Association South Africa.

www.mosaicassociation.co.za

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4

Start at the bottom of the mannequin so that nuggets have something to rest on – otherwise they will keep falling off! Stick the large black nuggets right around the bottom of the mannequin with a dab of silicone applied to the nugget itself before sticking it into place. I was concerned that the mannequin would become top-heavy and unstable so gave it two rows of the black nuggets to give it a heavier base . As far as possible, try and offset the nuggets in the next row between two nuggets on the bottom row to minimize the gaps left between them. Should the gaps really annoy you, you can either cut nuggets to fill the gaps or use beads and other small bits of glass. Using a blend of smaller and larger nuggets creates an interesting effect

Empty about a cup of grout into a container and slowly add water, stirring all the while till you have the consistency of toothpaste or cake batter. This time you need to add a bit more water so that it is slightly more runny because we need to fill large gaps between the nuggets, this slightly runny grout will fill those spaces better. Liberally smear the grout over a small surface of the nuggets (an area not much larger than 20 x 20 cm) ensuring that you force grout between all the nuggets. Nothing is more effective here than your fingers so the use of gloves is recommended. Scrape away the excess grout with newspaper and then use the old ballpoint pen or chopstick to remove the grout from around the nugget to expose as much of the glass dome as possible.

Try and avoid solid lines of nuggets of the same colour when changing to the next colour by randomly placing a few nuggets of the new colour between the old colour and again inserting old colour nuggets amongst the line of new colours When you do the top of the neck, stick a row of nuggets just below the top, so that the nuggets on the flat part of the neck overlap those underneath Continue sticking the different colours onto the mannequin until you have completely filled it.

Using a small nylon scrubbing brush, rub the surface in small circular motions to help remove any residue grout or silicone from the nuggets before starting on the next section. If you find a pothole or crater, rub a little grout into the gap with your finger until it is filled. Leave the project to dry completely and then remove any remaining grout with your fingernail or damp cloth.

Should a nugget dislodge during grouting, re-apply silicone to the nugget and return it to its place, gently filling the sides and surrounds with grout to repair the gap. Avoid work in this area until you are sure that the nugget has properly stuck and continue cleaning up your project. Sometimes a small amount of silicone will remain on the top of the nugget. Using acetone on a rough cloth, gently rub until the silicone is removed. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO GROUT THE ENTIRE MANNEQUIN ALL AT ONCE! By the time you have applied all the grout, the first section will be dry and hard making the removal of extra grout around the nuggets almost impossible

o Clean the mannequin of all dust, debris and bits of silicone that might have attached itself. o Using a soft cloth, polish your mannequin to remove the last of the dust and bits of grout which may remain. o Insert the light fitting inside the mannequin and attach it to the base.

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PAPERCRAFT

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DYEING

Printing with found objects can be such a joy! Occasionally I find an object so fabulous that you can use it all on its own to create striking effects. This packaging from an apple pie (thank you Scheepers De Bruin) is one of those objects. When we lifted the apple pie out of the container, I gasped in delight! 58

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REQUIREMENTS: •

2 m Habotai silk

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Blanket

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Sponge roller

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Purple and Black fabric paint

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Lid, tile or tray for inking up on

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Plastic cake tray

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Pre-cut lino stamp

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A pair of scissors for trimming

1 First trim the ridged edge of the tray away with a pair of scissors so that you have a practical working surface for printing.

the edge off the tray •

Bucket with water for washing up

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Old, damp towel for catching spills and wiping hands

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Spray bottle with water in for keeping ink moist as you work

3 Cover the surface of your scarf with stamped images.

4 Although the scarf looked quite finished at this point and I could easily have stopped here, I wanted to play a bit more so I added black centres to the floral shapes using a small pre-cut lino stamp so that it would match nicely with my black jacket.

2 Cover your table with the blanket. It not only catches the mess, it also provides a soft layer of padding that you can press into to make sure that all of the surfaces of your stamp touch the fabric with enough pressure to transfer the ink in a smooth, even layer. The blanket is the key to clear prints. Lay your silk scarf flat on the blanket and smooth it out. I recommend ironing it before you start as creases will register in the prints. Scoop some fabric paint onto your lid with a knife. Scoop up a small amount of paint onto the sponge of the roller. Roll the ink out on the lid. Roll the sponge back and forth with the gentlest pressure to condition the ink and coat the outside of the sponge with a very thin, even coating of paint. Apply a thin layer of purple fabric paint to the surface of the plastic using a sponge roller. Press the stamp into the fabric to transfer the paint into the surface of the cloth. A firm hand press on the back is enough. Apply even pressure all round for even prints. Peel the stamp back carefully to avoid smudging.

You will find more detailed information about making your own lino stamps in my book, 50 Silk Scarves / 50 Syserpe (Metz Press). Are you interested in more of my lino designs? Send me an e-mail with the words “Lino Prints Rock!” in the tagline, and I will send you a complimentary e-bookwith a selection of my designs in. [email protected] Written by Melanie Brummer Copyright exists in this material

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PAPERCRAFT

I just couldn't resist this project. And besides, when you live down the road from “The Scrap Queen” and her daughter just happens to be your daughter's “sister of the heart”, it just seemed like the perfect “bribe, beg, demand” project to ask: “Can I learn from you, use all of your amazing toys, utilize your scrap room, steal your supplies, copy your years of experience …?“ kind of project! It was great to do together and we certainly also drank lots of tea in the process.

Thank you Karen Muller for my first Scrap Queen Lesson, I learnt loads inbetween the fun.

by Atmosphere 60

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REQUIREMENTS: • • • • • • • • • •

Teapot die-cut mini album from Fab Scraps Selection of scrapbook paper Victoria Roses selection from Fab Scraps (or any similar for paper roses) One filigree die cut frame Selection of chalks Pearl rhinestone stick-ons Jewel to embellish top of teapot Alphabet stickers Selection of ribbons, stickers, rhinestones, sequins to embellish at will Paper thin double-sided tape - various widths

1 This is the most time consuming step. Karen has been scrapping for 22 years and swears that using paper thin double-sided tape for adhering paper and photographs is the best way to go. She says that by experience, it is the only thing that lasts forever. Well, at least for 22 years! Believe me -she has tried it all. So cover the piece with the lattice surface with double sided tape. Peel off the paper backing and adhere chosen scrapbook paper. Remember which side you want on top and remember which page your are working with because the pieces only fit together one way -you can't change the sequence. After you have adhered the scrapbook paper, cut off excess paper. We used these amazing Fiskars pen like cutters that laugh at fussy cutting. Continue to cover all the pages - both back and front. See you for step 2 in a couple of hours.....

2

3

4

Next is the chalking of the edges. Gotta love chalk!

For page 1 I used Fab Scraps' Victoria Roses. A couple of my friends bought these amazing books and we got together one afternoon to just sit and make roses. They are no good lying flat in a book. Now we have a selection at the ready for any projects.

For the first page I spray painted (using Rustoleum, of course - always) a die cut frame in cream. Then I layered some paper and used alphabet stickers for my title.

Besides covering up any scrappy bits, it adds a touch of detail and makes your pages pop.

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5

6

Page 2 – Here I bordered my cut out photograph (again with the help of Fiskars and anything you can find that is round for a stencil) and framed it with a cardstock circle, slightly bigger. Then I added some pretty filigree stickers.

Page 3 and 4 – Again I framed the cut out photographs with cardstock. This time I used some ribbon threaded down the one side with a little bow at the bottom. You can make these cuts yourself or use a ribbon punch (which of course the Scrap Queen had in her well stocked selection of punches). Then a few sequence flowers with rhinestones in the middle for balance.

7 Page 5 and 6 - Here I cut out the stars of the Tea Party, put them onto cardstock circles and cut out a branch and some leaves for the detail.

8 Page 7 and 8 – The Scrap Queen found some gorgeous lacey border frames and I thought it only “fair” that I should “borrow” some too.You can of course just cut and glue on any ribbon or braiding. These I finished off with “procured” pretty button flowers. The rest of page 8, which is the tea pot, absolutely had to be blinged up a little, but with elegant style, hence the pearl finish rhinestone stick-ons. Totally love these and I have to have loads - just in case. One never knows!!! And I finished it off with this pearl- like jewel that used to be a bead slider in another life. (Rumour has it that she was totally disgruntled being chained up in between beads, and is much happier on the teapot!)

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9 Let's not forget the back cover. It simply would not do. After all, it does hold it all together. And the date has to be there for those who suffer from memory loss. Besides having fun, it was wonderful to see how excited Millah was to receive the finished mini book. Such a fabulous memory of a happy afternoon. In fact, if I didn't already have the photos, it would have been a wonderful excuse to engineer such an afternoon just to make such a book.

by Jacqui Holmes of Classy Glass Art Studio-Port Elizabeth. A huge thank you to my son Dylan Holmes for all his help with this project

Years ago my friend, stained glass teacher and co-author of our book, Gail Brown, gave me the pattern for this square box. She showed me how to make it, but it was bigger and used as a candle holder. I reduced it to turn it into this little teaspoon holder. Sadly, Gail passed away on 12.12.2014 and I would therefore like to dedicate this to her. Without her passion, enthusiasm and patience as a teacher, I would never have become involved with stained glass. This is for you my friend.

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1

Tools • Cutting board – a piece of ceiling board is ideal for this. • Glass cutter • Grozier pliers • Glass grinder • Ruler • Prestik • Soft cloth • Safety glasses if you do not wear specs • Sharpie pen to draw the pattern onto your glass • Paintbrushes or flux brushes to paint flux onto your project • 100W soldering iron • Soldering iron controller if your soldering iron does not have a built in thermostat to regulate the temperature. NB – If your soldering iron gets too hot, the glass can crack during the soldering process. • Lathekin (for ironing out the copper foil once it is applied). • Newspapers for easier cleaning up as you go along. • A solution of Sunlight Liquid and bicarbonate of soda diluted in water to clean your project. • Methylated spirits to wipe on all your soldered parts to make sure the oily residue of the flux is completely removed. • Assembly wedges

Materials • 2 x laminated copies of the pattern, numbered identically • I used wispy cobalt blue, opalescent white and clear textured iridized glass (all Spectrum glass) • ¼ inch black back copper foil • Flux • Solder (60/40) • Clear lacquer spray if you are not going to patina the project.

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2

Cut the pieces out of one of your laminated pattern copies. Leave the other intact to use as a template at your grinder, which you will place into a jig. You can also measure the strips that make up the sides of your box as well as the square in the middle. Use your ruler measure and mark on the glass. You can adjust it if you would prefer something a little bigger or smaller. You will need the teaspoon pattern to cut out your spoon. Always place patterns upside down on the wrong side of the glass, secure with Prestik, and trace around each pattern piece with a marker pen. Score and break your glass and then move to the grinder with all your pieces.

3

You will need to set up a jig to work in for this project. The 4 sides of the box must be the same size in order to be able to correctly assemble them together once you have finished. I use angle iron for jig pieces which I cut to size with a hacksaw and then drill small holes along them where I can fit my map pins through. Set up your jig before you begin grinding. Grind each of your pattern pieces to make sure they fit within the jig as well as the lines of your template.

Once you are satisfied that your pattern pieces fit correctly, apply copper foil around each piece, ironing the foil flat with the lathekin.

4

5

Place the foiled pieces back into your jig. Flux the joins and spot solder along these joins. I placed the square at an angle inside the strips to make it more interesting. Melt these blobs of solder into the joins so that your strips of glass are held together. You can then remove the panel from the jig and do the back. Remember to tin around all the edges so that all the copper parts are silver because they have been covered with solder.

Once all 4 sides are assembled, it is time to bring them together to form your box. I use a set square to bring the corners of 2 of the sides together.

6 Once the corners are neat on the inside and outside, place your box either on a piece of mirror or glass. This should ideally be 3 mm thick. It is best when doing any box to first assemble the sides and then use the box as your template to cut the bottom. You will be more accurate that way. Draw around the bottom of your box on the glass or mirror and score and break. NB- Mirror should be scored mirror side up and when you grind, you should hold with the mirror side down. Grind to make the edges rough and also to make sure it fits the bottom of your box properly. If using mirror, spray a layer of clear lacquer generously on the bottom and allow to dry. Foil the bottom and use your lathekin to iron out any crinkles or bumps on the foil.

7 Turn the box upside down and place the bottom on top. Flux and spot solder on all the corners. Then turn your box onto its side to enable you to solder along the bottom edges, joining your box to its base. Solder on the inside as well along the base. Solder your teaspoon together and tin around the edges. Place on one side of the box and spot solder it in place where the joins of the box meet with the edges of the spoon. 2 or 3 small spots should be sufficient to hold it in place. Rinse your project in the soapy solution and dry carefully. Once you have cleaned the box off, use a soft cloth dipped in methylated spirits to rub over the project removing any excess oil left by the flux that did not wash off. Once dry you can spray the clear lacquer all over the box, inside and out. This will seal it well. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Spot solder at the top and bottom in the corner, once you have fluxed. Spot solder the other 2 sides together using your set square to ensure you get a right angle. You will now have 2 sets of 2 sides for your box. Line them up (you can continue to use the set square if you like) and spot solder at the top and bottom bringing the square together. I use assembly wedges to rest the box in, which make it easier for me to solder the inside seams and also the outside seams.

8 Place the teaspoon holder on your serving tray with all your other tea and coffee time goodies and brag to your friends. TIPS: Safety is important while working with stained glass. Always wear safety specs while cutting and grinding. If you wear specs normally, these are usually sufficient protection. Use a small scoop and brush to regularly clean your work surface. Do not be tempted to use your hand. While soldering remember: Everything that is silver is HOT. CONTACT DETAILS: 0413690004, Cell: 0827822381, [email protected] Website: www.classyglass.co.za Follow us on Facebook: “Classy Glass Art Studio”

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ITEM OF INTEREST

Everybody loves a success story. Especially when the successful peoples in question are women and have decided to give up their 'day jobs' and enter into a realm where their passion takes centre stage. Read how these amazing women believed in their dreams and leapt into a different kind of a life. Mareli : Chloe Anna Mareli, who had a very good job in a corporate environment started a hobby that was to become a full time business. She says: '”I was never a good sewer in high school and used to pay the neighbour to do my school projects. My home economics teacher will never believe her eyes when she sees what I do today.” She started with costume jewellery for friends and markets but this industry was not sustainable. One day she took her mother's old sewing machine out of storage and spent the next two days making a handbag. And she got hooked! A friend asked her to make small handbags for her child's party gifts and a new business was born. “ It started with a kid's full apron, a pencil case and a stuffed toy. All of them were “how-to” painting and beading activities. Going to see my first potential stockist was nerve wrecking but what a celebration when I had an order in two seconds. I now stock local stores. I do all the production myself, from raw material through to finished product, and I am not looking back. I love what I do and to do it every day is a great blessing“. Mareli still works from home and when I wanted to get a photograph, she was extremely embarrassed and said NO WAY! I guess at the heart of every great crafter is a very messy home filled with 'projects'.

Sarah: Myang Myang was founded by Sarah Massey-Hicks, a talented young designer who started making babies shoes in her moms garage, with the help of two part time seamstresses. Her designs, radiating a strong sense of fun and unique style, caught the attention of Margi Sheard, a seasoned entrepreneur with a love of design and a desire to become involved in upliftment projects for women. This was the start of a burgeoning business, with an ever expanding range of products which have drawn admiration from international markets since its official founding in 2012. Myang runs a small design studio in Port Elizabeth where it employs five full time staff members. A further 6 part-time employees are given materials and training to create a range of hand made clothing and toys for Myang at their homes. This allows them to continue caring for their families whilst earning an income. Sarah says that she works harder now, and in the beginning stages for less money, than she has ever had to work in her life. But, she has stuck to her dream and a huge success story that continues to grow. I asked Sarah what she always has time for, she replied with a laugh, “ Pulling a weed out in my garden, we have just bought a house and it is my new love.” She is still dreaming big and says that one day she hopes to contribute in a creative way to magazines and on-line forums, and longs for excuses to make more things.

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Bridgette: Fab Scraps The owner, Brigitte Wimbush, has a fine art and graphic design background has been in the advertising industry for over twenty years. Spotting a gap in the market, Brigitte started the company as a sideline venture to her small advertising agency, with her sister Janine. Astonishingly, within ten years, the pair has grown what started off as a small venture in a loft, into the largest scrapbook manufacturer and supplier in Africa and supply dedicated scrapbooking, stationary and craft stores worldwide. They launched into America 5 years ago, and are now working with the largest craft distributor in America. Amazon.com has also taken on their full collections. Fab Scraps now distribute in Canada, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. They launched into fabric after numerous calls from large American fabric houses to turn their designs into fabric. Their fabric is being distributed worldwide. Fab Scraps has a very active, updated website. Every week projects are released on Facebook, on their web page, Twitter and Pinterest, providing the retailer with project notes on unusual page layouts to off the page and unfinished surface projects! Giveaways on Facebook happen weekly around the globe and their “YOU TUBE” channel inspires viewers with exciting projects. They are truly an amazing international success story, all with love from Africa and Fab Scraps of course.

Tracy – Kisma Kreative The foundation of Kisma is built on re-cycling. Using found objects and giving them new life – anything from old computer parts to coffee tins and chocolate wrappers. Turing trash into handmade, unique treasures. Tracy does what she loves, to create - every day! Tracy cannot even remember a time when she was not creating, beading, painting, 'glassing', paper crafting etc. Basically anything she could get her hands on. Tracy began selling her creations at The Handmade Market and after a huge success and exposure to many other like minded artists, she was inspired to open a store. In 2011, the perfect venue became available and she began her journey. Kisma and Co burst onto the creative pages of Grahamstown. Anything from handmade sweet treats, to accessories, gifts, fine art and of course Tracy's creations. She says: “ I think that our work is always a little bit different because we are a small town and we don't always have access to the big craft and supply stores. We often make a plan and use what we have to create our own unique items.” She adds that the store has become a meeting place for like minded people, who previously might have thought themselves alone in their slightly eccentric creative endeavours. They exchange patterns, ideas and know-how and they exchange and re-distribute upcycleable trash and materials. Tracy says that she always has time for a chat with a customer and a happy exchange can keep her smiling all day long. She dreams of one day being able to create everything she wants, when the mood takes her.

Well, there you have it creatives! Four major success stories and four very happy, brave woman living their creativity every day. I hope that you are inspired. Dig out your talents and make a choice to be a happy, successful dreamer. Not good luck from me, but rather happy creating.

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PAINTING

WHITE

Flower by Ronel Swart

SIMPLICITY, A SYMBOL OF EASTER 68

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1

Brushes used:

Paints used (Americana)

Variety of flat nylon brushes. Round no 4 and 6 Round script Deerfoot Shaders Saral transfer paper and stylus Canvas Gel or acrylic sealer

White Soft lilac Soft heather Whispering turquoise Salem blue Dioxazine purple Admiral blue Lilac Purple pizzazz Teal green Antique teal

Basecoat the canvas with gel/sealer. Transfer the pattern onto the canvas. Start by painting the background. I used dark colours to enable me to show up the pureness of the white flowers. Remember that white also has a shadow colour! Think about that and go and have a look how many colours you can see forming shadows on a white tablecloth unbelievable! I used whispering turquoise to paint in the left corner - one of my absolute favourites! This later lifted with a bit of soft blue for highlights. I used the beautiful and rich blue berry and blue green for the foreground to resemble foliage. I highlighted here and there with desert turquoise and touches of purple pizzazz.

2

Derset turquoise Irish moss green Mistletoe Forrest green or black forest green Dark chocolate Taffy cream yellow Soft blue Blue berry Blue green

Block in the flowers with white, dioxazine purple, blue berry and also some blue green. Tone the dioxazine purple down a bit with some green. This is a very strong colour and should be used with care. Paint in the light and shadows on each petal. Once you are satisfied with the shading and light on the petals, use Irish moss to shade in green at the calyx of the flower bending as well as the flower facing with green shaded around the little face. Paint the leaves of the flowers with a very large shader. I loaded with mistletoe and forest green to outline later with a shader using purple pizzazz.

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3 Going back to the focal flower. After shading, just touch the inner petals with a mixture of water and paint. I used soft lilac, soft heather and lilac for the petals before I started painting in the small veins on each petal with a rigger (or my favourite nail art set). This set has the most fantastic rigger brush which I can load with a watery paint to just paint, paint and paint. Remember to hold your brush very straight to enable you to paint the finest of fine lines on the petals.

4

Stipple in the centre of the flowers which I call ‘faces’. I used a deerfoot brush to get a fluffy effect. Stipple in with dark chocolate and taffy cream with touches of white for light. Stipple the outer circle with some purple pizzazz. I used my rigger for this. Paint in the stamen with the rigger. Tip with taffy cream and dot with white.

5

Start by painting in the foliage. Here I really played with my greens and my shader. Touch here and there then highlight by painting the tips of the leaves very lightly. Just enjoy what you are doing, I painted some leaves blue - why not? Double load the shader with some extender to make the paint more runny to give you more time to play with the leaves and colours. The leaves of the hellebores are normally edged with a maroon-pinky colour but mine is edged with a brighter pink. Also use a light hand when you paint in the tiny veins on the petals, it must just have a touch of colour.

6

I wanted to keep this painting very simple because “less is more”. To me the painting should be very pure but with all the colour hidden in the shading. Lots to think about and to observe and to get your mind working. The streaks of light in the painting was exciting as I kept picturing the flowers in a forest with the light falling on the white, simple little flowers.... Till next time, enjoy!

For more information on this project you can email Ronel Swart: [email protected] 70

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EMAIL TO: [email protected] (Scan this page and attach to your email.) CONGRATULATIONS to the following winners of Wordsearch 100 who will each be receiving a hamper of Bostik products: Catherine Barnard, George • Annatjie Steyn , Alberton • Milda Strydom, Riversdale • Adele Veitch, Kenilworth • Twanet Zaayman , Duncanville

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Missed out on some issues of Craftwise or Stitches? You can order them here, or online at www.tucats.co.za

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ORDER PLEASE SEND ME the following back issues as ticked below: CRAFTWISE 80 81 83 84 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 STITCHES 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42

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Treat yourself or a friend ! Have your Craftwise sent straight to you. A Craftwise subscription just makes sense. South African addresses:

6 issues for only R205 or 12 issues for only R390

Neighbouring African countries:

6 issues for only R275 or 12 issues for only R525

All other countries:

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But that’s not all... ONE lucky Craftwise subscriber will be receiving a Dremel 3000 kit plus accessories! Total value R3 000! Draw closes 30 April 2015. ALL new subscriptions and renewals received between 01/03/2015 and 30/04/2015 will be entered in this draw.

ROUTER BIT SET

PLUNGE ROUTER ATTACHMENT

DREMEL 3000-1/25

The Dremel 3000 Variable Speed Rotary Tool is ideal for detailed DIY and hobby projects with its fully variable speed setting and reduced vibration allowing for perfect control when cutting, carving, engraving, polishing, and grinding. The Dremel 3000 features a softgrip area with finger indents and a streamlined design for comfortable handling, as well as the innovative EZ Twist nose cap for convenient accessory changes. The Dremel Plunge Router attachment converts the Dremel 3000 to rout circles, signs and inlay work, and decorative edges. The Dremel Plunge Router features a plunge lock handle, two depth stops, edge and circle guides, and guide bushing. In conjunction, the Dremel 7-piece Multipurpose Router Bit Set allows users to perform a range of routing applications (i.e. edge, corner, straight, keyhole, and word and letter) on a variety of materials, including: veneered wood, fibreboard, chipboard, laminates, plywood, softwood, hardwood, rubber, plastic, Plexiglas, and carbon. Connect with Dremel: facebook.com/DremelSouthernAfrica and on Twitter - @Dremel_SA

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LEARN A NEW CRAFT TODAY

Home of bespoke handcrafted lampwork beads [email protected]

Variety of crafts, workshops, correspondence courses, supplies and kits available! Classes available in: Recycling Textured Art, Parchment Craft, Glass Painting, Calligraphy, Dêcoupage, Sand Art and Marbling. Contact Yvonne Watson 082 855 5466

www.glassandfire.co.za

Relocated New shop and Studio at Shop 2 Duncan Yard Corner of Jan Shoba and Prospect streets, Hatfield, Pretoria Only 2 blocks from Hatfield Gautrain Station!

012 362 0156 GPS coordinates: 25º 45' 4.25" S. 28º 14' 24.47" E.

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78 Sam Nujoma Drive Windhoek Tel: 061- 269152 Fax: 061-236901 Oil, acrylic, glass, water and craft paints, glitter, american crafts, imported brushes, stencils, transfers, stamps, ribbon, pewter, beads, candle wax and moulds, new stock arriving every week. We also do laser cutting and engraving. Classes in: decorative and fabric painting, pewter, cardmaking, beading, decoupage, and lots more.

[email protected] WWW.JENNYSPLACE.IWAY.NA

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TO GET YOUR AD IN OUR PAGES CALL 0860 62 63 62

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IN STORES NOW! A l s o ava i l abl e i n d i g i t a l f o r m at w w w. z i n i o . c o m / s t i t c h e s

Classified Smalls Ads Smalls ads can be booked online at www.craftwise.co.za or by email to [email protected] - Closing date for May /June 2015 issue is 31 March -

CLASSES / COURSES

CRAFT MARKETS

ART CLAY SILVER We recommend an introductory handson workshop to get inspired! Contact Dragon Glass, 011 849 6430 or 082 457 2951 (business hours) or e-mail [email protected] for details of an instructor near you. [ref: sml8]

Walkerville Farmer's Market. Open every Saturday from 9am - 3pm. Over 60 stalls offering hand-crafts and homegrown produce. New crafters always welcome. A well attended outlet for quality handcrafts. Contact Gail 079 076 7680 or [email protected]. See www.wfmarket.co.za for more information. [ref: sml89]

Filani Polymer Clay Craft Classes. I offer beginner clay craft classes and workshops, clay bead making and children clay crafting classes in Pretoria. Also childrens parties crafting with clay. Please enquire on the dates of the classes Vanessa email [email protected] or 0834561903. [ref: sml114] CRAFT/ART CLUBS Crafters Club @ Tshwane China Mall, Sefako Makgatho Dve, Derdepoort, Pretoria. Exhibitors welcome. Membership R300.00 / month for 7 days a week or selected days. Casual trading: Saturday R100.00, Sunday R50.00, week days R30.00. Contact Jacoba 0765275720, [email protected], www.craftersclub.co.za [ref: sml121] CRAFT / ART SUPPLIES PNA STRAND/ SOMERSET MALL/ EIKESTAD MALL Whether you are a keen artist, crafter, hobbyist or a complete beginner, these One-stop Superstores have everything you will need to be inspired. We stock: stamps, scrapbooking paper and accessories, ribbons, decoupage materials and blanks, mosaic tiles and inserts and lots more. We offer craft and fine art classes. Please visit us, we would love to meet you. Contact Tana (021 854 8108). [ref: sml28]

GLASSWORK DRAGON GLASS - suppliers of all you need for the craft of Warm Glass. Our range of instructional videos is recognised world wide, NOW AVAILABLE ON DVD! Agents for the full Thompson Enamel range, “Vidriarte” glass sheet and accessory products, and CBS dichroic coated sheet glass, all Float compatible. We supply kilns, and all other tools and consumables for the craft - including our superior kiln wash/mould release! Contact Stan or Heather (011) 849 6430 or e-mail: [email protected] [ref: sml22]

4524524, email: [email protected] ONLINE SHOP:www.itzvanallez.co.za [ref: sml62] We sell PURE UNREFINED SHEA BUTTER of the highest quality. It is wonderful on its own and in homemade skin care cosmetics which are so easy to make. Friends and family will love receiving such thoughtful gifts as lipbalms and body butters to pamper them. Great in soapmaking too sheahealing.com. [ref: sml122] VIDEOS DECOUPAGE UNDER GLASS AVAILABLE ON DVD This video titled “Decoupage Under Glass and Advanced Background Techniques”, is now available from Dragon Glass. Join us in a visual workshop. Step-by-step instructions on how to create masterpieces under glass. Includes instructions on gluechipped glass, and lots more! Contact Stan or Heather (011) 849-6430 or email: [email protected] [ref: sml31]

MINIATURES WOODEN BLANKS DOLLHOUSES AND MINIATURES. Go to www.miniaturehouse.co.za to see over 1700 items with colour picture, description and Price. Order on line. Excellent postal service. Pay by credit card or direct transfer or visit our shop at 119 Vorster ave, Glenanda, JHB. Fax and telephone 011 682 2303. [ref: sml25]

Tiny Olive We laser cut 3mm or 6mm supawood. Perfect for decorating, mosiac and decoupaging. Washi tape is also for sale. Nationwide delivery. Contact me at 079 225 6868, [email protected] or visit us at www.tinyolive.co.za [ref: sml117]

MISCELLANEOUS Itz van Allez, your one stop arts and crafts shop. All under one roof. We do decoupage blanks, paper, serviettes, beads, scrapbooking, pewter, mosaic, lazer items, polystyrene, mirrors, feathers, etc etc. We also do classes and mail orders. Contact us on Tel:021 911 0962, Fax: 086 5172699 Cell: 082

No ads will be placed until payment has been received. No ads will be accepted or changed after the closing date. N0 hand written ads will be accepted.

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SUPPLIERS

ART BEADS CANDLE MAKING CARDMAKING/RUBBER STAMPING CERAMICS/POTTERY DECOUPAGE & 3D DECO. FABRIC PAINTING/ PATT. FOLK ART GLASS PAINTING JEWELLERY KILNS/FURNACES MOSAICS PAPERCRAFT/MACHÉ PARCHMENT CRAFT PEWTER / SHIM QUILLING SCRAPBOOKING SCREENPRINTING SILK PAINTING SOAP MAKING STAINED GLASS STITCH CRAFT/FABRIC TEDDY BEAR MAKING WARM GLASS WOODEN BLANKS CRAFT MARKETS MAIL ORDER SERVICE REGULAR CLASSES

ART & CRAFT COUNTRYWIDE / ONLINE Bernina RSA

Countrywide

011 726 1800

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Brother International SA

Head Office

012 345 5332

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

The Fat Quarter Store

ONLINE ONLY

www.thefatquarter.co.za

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Beads Direct

Irene

012 345 5466

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Beyond Laser

Roodepoort

011 674 1645

Buttons and Bows

Bryanston

011 463 6229

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Chemosol / Aquatex

Selby

011 493 3686

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Creative Papercraft

Gauteng

011 763 5682

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Creative Talents

Various

HO: 016 427 1030

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Dragon Glass

Benoni

011 849 6430

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

El's Crafts

Linden

011 782 9947

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Glacermo

Lyttelton

072 222 9500

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Glass & Fire

Villieria

012 329 9803

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Hostess Pro

Pretoria

083 456 1903

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Jimnettes

Lynnwoodridge 012 361 4469

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Lifestyle Mica

Randburg

011 792 5616

• • • • • •

Mosaic Arts

Silvertondale

012 804 7392

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Ribbonfields

Randparkridge 011 675 1253

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Scrap-a-doodles

Centurion/Pta

0861 72 72 70

Scrap Crazee

Alberton

011 867 4788

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Timeless Miracles

Centurion

082 783 4499

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Trunell

Vanderbijlpark

082 773 6717

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Unique Creations

Meyerton

016 362 1957

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Somerset West 021 852 6608

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Ceramic Craft Studio

KZN

031 708 2519

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Magic Moments

Everton/Gillits

031 767 0097

Ark Trading

Windhoek

061 385 900

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Jenny's Place

Windhoek

061 269 152

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Orania

084 491 1947

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

GAUTENG

•

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

•

•

• • • • • • • • • • • • • •

WESTERN CAPE Country Craft Market KWAZULU-NATAL

•

•

NAMIBIA

N. CAPE Skinki Kofé / Wire Art

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Flowers for Easter © Ronel Swart Enlarge to preference

Angel © Ronel Swart Enlarge to preference

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Windpomp © Hannalie Hurter

-Coenie de Villiers

Enlarge to preference

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Windpomp © Hannalie Hurter Enlarge to preference

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Easter Garden Decorations © Dragon Glass

Teaspoon Holder © Classy Glass Art Studio 4 panels Cut 1 - 4 x 4 Cut centre smaller and turn at an angle to solder corners of centre piece to sides.

1

Teaspoon - Cut 1 of each piece. Can be adjusted to make smaller.

4

cut slightly smaller

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PATTERNSHEET

Easter gift box © Brother

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Sweet Treat © Gwen Young of Classic Stained Glass Enlarge to A3

Diva of Dance • Marietjie Breet

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Adult Female (7 ½ heads)

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