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“ROSETTE” DOLL PATTERN
Author Myazina Julia https://www.instagram.com/julja_myzina
English translation by Serena Swartz https://www.instagram.com/swartz.serena/
he Pattern of this crocheted doll is copyrighted and not subject to distribution by third parties CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS: MR – magic ring; ch — chain; sc — single crochet; dc – double crochet; tr – treble crochet; hdc – half double crochet; inc — increase; dec — decrease; ss — slip stitch; FHL - front half loop (half loop closest to you); BHL - back half loop (half loop farthest from you) St – stitch, Sts - stitches
MATERIALS: copper electric wire in cover size 1 mm (1 m) PECHORKA “colored lace“ (482 m/50 gm) yarn (or the one you got used with); scissors; hook 0,6 mm; pliers; stuffing; fabric tape; skewer.
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Attention!!! All crochet takes place on the wrong side, so the doll will come out neater, especially face. When crocheting with the above materials, your doll will be about 21 cm. Use thicker or thinner materials if you want to change the size of the doll. In the process of crocheting, you may be faced with the fact, that the paired parts of the doll (legs, arms) could differ in lengths or thicknesses. This is due to the fact, that on different days or even within the same day, the thread tension in your hands changes. So, I advise you to crochet two paired parts of the doll in parallel (i.e. crochet several rows of one leg, then set it aside and crochet several rows of the other leg). In this pattern, I crochet with the so-called "check marks". This crocheting comes out less dense. There is also crocheting with "crosses", it comes out denser, but, for example, it will be very difficult to embroider a face. If you crocheted toys before and noticed that your marker always goes vertically upward without deviating along the axis, then you will need inevitably to make offset loops and change the position of some increases and decreases. This is due to the fact, that in this pattern described below, marker deviates vertically and goes up in a spiral. Also, due to the offset of the marker, some increases and decreases may be located asymmetrically relative to other increases and decreases. Therefore, this should not confuse you. You will find a notes each several rows, at those point you will need to check the position of indicated inc or dec. And if it will be necessary you will be working some offset sts.
P.S. I use two size of the skewer (thick and thin). A thin skewer is more convenient for stuffing small parts. Also, for your convenience, I advise you to break off the tips of both skewers, so it will be easier to tamp the filler.
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ARMS You can watch the following video for the similar hand --> https://clck.ru/WntNn Right arm:
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5 ch, 4 sl st in the chain. (4) – pinky
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6 ch, 5 sl st in the chain. (5) – middle finger
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6 ch, 5 sl st in the chain. (5) - index finger
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4) 6 ch, 5 sl st in the chain. (5) – ring finger
Watch the video, that was given in the beginning to learn how to make the 5th row. 5) 4 sc on the one side of the fingers, 6 sc on the other side of the fingers. (10) – place the marker
6)
10 sc. (10)
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7) (5 ch, 4 sl st in the chain), 10 sc. (10)
8) 2 sc in the thumb, 10 sc. (12) 9) 12 sc. (12) 10) 2 dec, sc, 2 dec, sc, dec. (7) 11)-12) 7 sc. (7)
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10) dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc. (7) 11) – 12) 7 sc (7) 13) 4 sc, inc, 2 sc. (8) 14) – 15) 8 sc (8) 16) 5 sc, inc, 2 sc. (9) 17) – 18) 9 sc. (9) 19) 6 sc, inc, 2 sc. (10) 20) – 21) 10 sc. (10) 22) 7 sc, inc, 2 sc. (11) 23) – 24) 11 sc. (11) 25) 7 sc, 3 sc in one st, 3 sc. (13) - “3 sc in one st” should be located above the pinky, other way work some offset loops. 26) 7 sc, 3 sc together, 3 sc. (11) - at the pictures below you can see how to crochet “3 sc together”.
27) 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (9) 28) 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc. (11) 29) 7 sc, inc, 3 sc. (12) 30)-39) 12 sc. (12) Work a few more sts to reach the middle of the armpit. Cut the thread and tighten the tip.
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Left arm: 1) 6 ch, 5 slst. (5) – index finger 2) 6 ch, 5 slst. (5) – middle finger 3) 6 ch, 5 slst. (5) – ring finger 4) 5 ch, 4 slst. (4) – little finger 5) 4 sc on one side of the fingers, 6 sc on the other side (10) – place the marker 6) 10 sc. (10) 7) 4 sc, (5 ch, 4 sl st in the chain), 6 sc,. (10) 8) 4 sc, 2 sc in the thumb, 6 sc. (12) 9) 12 sc. (12) 10) dec, sc, 3 dec, sc, dec. (7) 11)-12) 7 sc. (7) 13) inc, 6 sc. (8) 14)-15) 8 sc. (8) 16) sc, inc, 6 sc. (9) 17)-18) 9 sc. (9) 19) 2 sc, inc, 6 sc. (10) 20)-21) 10 sc. (10) 22) 3 sc, inc, 6 sc. (11) 23)-24) 11 sc. (11)
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25) 3 sc, 3 sc in one st, 7 sc. (13) - elbow should de located above the pinky 26) 3 sc, 3 sc together, 7 sc. (13) 27) dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc. (9) 28) inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc. (11) 29) 3 sc, inc, 7 sc. (12) 30)-39) 12 sc. (12) Work a few more sts to reach the middle of the armpit. Cut the thread and tighten the tip.
BREAST Leave the long tip og thread about 20 cm and then work in the magic ring the following below pattern. 1) 6 sc in MR. (6) 2) 6 inc. (12) 3) (inc, sc)*6. (18) 4)-5) 18 sc. (18) Pull the long tip of thread outside (that thread that you’ve left at the beginning). That tip will be used for nipples later. Repeat for the second breast.
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LEGS Left leg: Work 5 ch, in the 2nd st from the hook: 1) 4 sc on one side of the chain, 4 sc on the other side. (8) - place the marker 2) 4 sc, inc, 3 sc. (9) 3) inc, 3 sc, inc, 4 sc. (11) 4)-9) 11 sc. (11) 10) 8 sc, 3 inc in BLO. (14) 11) 9 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc. (16)
12)-13) 16 sc. (16) 14) 8 sc, 4 dec. (12) Cut the wire 24 cm long (maybe you will need more if you use a different materials or your sts are not so tight as mine). Uncover 3 cm of the wire, bend this end in a half and wrap it with a tape as shown in the photo below. Put this end of the wire in the foot and bend the tip of the foot with a pliers.
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Stuff the heel and the front side of the foot.
15) 6 sc, 3 dec. (9) 16) dec, 5 sc, dec. (7) 17)-18) 7 sc. (7) 19) 6 sc, inc. (8) - inc should be located in the back 20)-21) 8 sc. (8) - stuff it 22) 7 sc, inc. (9) 23)-24) 9 sc. (9) 25) 8 sc, inc. (10)
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26) 10 sc. (10) 27) 9 sc, inc. (11) 28) 11 sc. (11) Stuff it. 29) inc, 10 sc (12) 30) 10 sc, inc, sc. (13) 31) sc, inc, 11 sc. (14) 32) 11 sc, inc, 2 sc. (15) 33) 2 sc, inc, 12 sc. (16) 34) 12 sc, inc, 3 sc. (17) Stuff it. 35) - 40) 17 sc. (17) 41) dec, 15 sc. (16) - dec should be located in the back 42) dec, 14 sc. (15) 43) dec, 13 sc. (14) 44) dec, 12 sc. (13) 45) dec, 11 sc. (12) Stuff it.
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46) 4 sc, 4 inc (in front of the leg), 4 sc. (16) 47) inc, 15 sc. (17) 48) 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, sc, inc, 2 sc. (16) 49) sc, inc, 14 sc. (17) 50) 14 sc, inc, 2 sc. (18) 51) 2 sc, inc, 15 sc. (19) - inc should be located in the back 52) 16 sc, inc, 2 sc. (20) 53) 3 sc, inc, 16 sc. (21) 54) 18 sc, inc, 2 sc. (22) 55) 22 sc. (22) 56) 19 sc, inc, 2 sc. (23) Stuff it. 57) 23 sc. (23) 58) 20 sc, inc, 2 sc. (24) 59) 24 sc. (24) 60) 21 sc, inc, 2 sc. (25) 61) 25 sc. (25) 62) 22 sc, inc, 2 sc. (26) 63) – 70) 26 sc. (26) Stuff it. Work a few more sts to reach the middle of the inner side of the thigh (It took me 12 sc).Cut the thread and tighten the tip.
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Right leg: Work 5 ch, in the 2nd st from the hook: 1) 4 sc on one side of the chain, 4 sc on the other side. (8) - place the marker. 2) inc, 7 sc. (9) 3) inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc. (11) 4)-9) 11 sc. (11) 10) 9 sc, 2 inc in BLO. (13) 11) inc in BLO, 9 sc, inc, 2 sc. (15) 12) inc, 14 sc. (16) 13) 16 sc. (16) 14) 11 sc, 4 dec. (12) - place the marker here Cut the wire 20 cm long (maybe you will need more if you use a different materials or your sts are not so tight as mine). Uncover 3 cm of the wire, bend this end in a half and wrap it with a tape. Put this end of the wire in the foot and bend the tip of the foot with a pliers. Stuff the foot. 15) 6 sc, 3 dec. (9) 16) dec, 5 sc, dec. (7) 17)-18) 7 sc. (7) 19) inc, 6 sc. (8) - inc should be located in the back 20)-21) 8 sc. (8) - stuff it 22) sc, inc, 6 sc. (9) 23)-24) 9 sc. (9) 25) 2 sc, inc, 6 sc. (10) 26)10 sc. (10)
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27) 3 sc, inc, 6 sc. (11) 28) 11 sc. (11) Stuff it 29) 2 sc, inc, 8 sc. (12) 30) 5 sc, inc, 6 sc. (13) 31) 3 sc, inc, 9 sc. (14) 32) 7 sc, inc, 6 sc. (15) 33) 4 sc, inc, 10 sc. (16) 34) 9 sc, inc, 6 sc. (17) Stuff it 35)-40) 17 sc. (17) 41) 8 sc, dec, 7 sc. (16) - dec should be located in the back 42) 8 sc, dec, 6 sc. (15) 43) 8 sc, dec, 5 sc. (14) 44) 8 sc, dec, 5 sc. (13) 45) 8 sc, dec, 5 sc. (12) Stuff it 46) 4 inc (should be located in front), 8 sc. (16) 47) 11 sc, inc, 4 sc. (17) 48) dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, inc, sc. (16) 49) 10 sc, inc, 5 sc. (17) 50) 15 sc, inc, sc. (18) 51) 11 sc, inc, 6 sc. (19) - inc should be located in the back 52) 17 sc, inc, sc. (20) 53) 12 sc, inc, 7 sc. (21) 54) 19 sc, inc, sc. (22) 55) 22 sc. (22) 56) 20 sc, inc, sc. (23) Stuff it
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57) 23 sc. (23) 58) 21 sc, inc, sc. (24) 59) 24 sc. (24) 60) 22 sc, inc, sc. (25) 61) 25 sc. (25) 62) 23 sc, inc, sc. (26) 63)-70) 26 sc. (26) Work a few more sts to reach the middle of the inner side of the thigh (It took me 12 sc). DON’T cut the thread!
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BODY 1) 3 ch from the right leg, continue with the left leg: 18 sc, 5 inc in BLO, 3 sc, 3 sc in the chain, 3 sc, 5 inc in BLO, 16 sc, dec, 3 sc in the chain. (67)– place the marker
5 inc 3 sc 3 sc
5 inc
3 sc
3 sc
18 sc
18 sc
2) dec, 13 sc, dec, 14 sc, skip 3 sc, 14 sc, dec, 17 sc. (61) 3) 16 sc, (inc, sc)*5, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, (sc, inc)* 5, 19 sc. (70) 4) 13 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 4 sc. (66) 5) 1 sc, dec, 28 sc, dec, 33 sc, (64) 6) 11 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 14 sc. (61) 7) 28 sc, dec, 31 sc. (60) 8) 10 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 13 sc. (57) 9) 26 sc, dec, 29 sc (56) 10) 23 sc, skip 8 sc, 25 sc. (48) - there is no need to sew the hole after skipping sts Bend the wires from the legs closer to each other and connect them with the tape as shown in the photo below.
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11) 11 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 13 sc. (44) 12) 11 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 13 sc. (42) 13) 11 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 13 sc. (38) 14) 11 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 13 sc. (36) 15) 11 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 13 sc. (34) 16) 34 sc. (34) - stuff it tight
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17) 11 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 13 sc (32) 18) 32 sc. (32) 19) 11 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 13 sc. (30) 20) – 22) 30 sc. (30) 23) 8 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 6 sc. (32) - increases should be on the sides of the body 24) – 26) 32 sc. (32) 27) 9 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 4 sc.(31) – place the marker Stuff it.
At this poin attaching of the breasts will begin. 28) 5 sc (chest + breast), sc, 5 sc (chest + breast), 23 sc. (34)
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In the next row you will crochet on the top of the breast. 29) skip 1 sc of the beast, 12 sc (on the top of the right breast), 1 sc , 12 sc (on the top of the left breast), skip 1 sc, 23 sc. (48)
12 sc
12 sc
1 sc
23 sc
30) skip 1 sc, 23 sc, skip 1 sc, 23 sc. (46) 31) skip 1 sc, 21 sc, skip 1 sc, 20 sc. (41) In the following row you will attach the arms (the same way as you did for the breast). 32) 3 sc (body + right arm), skip 1 sc, 19 sc, skip 1 sc, 3 sc (body + left arm), 17 sc. (36)
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33) 9 sc (arm), 19 sc, 9 sc (arm), 17 sc. (54) 34) – 37) 54 sc. (54) Uncover electric wire, bend one end for 0,5 cm and put it in the arm. Mesure how much wire you will be needed for the second arm and cut it. bend the second end of the wire as shown in the photo below. Put the wire in the arms between the 2 wires from the body. Connect together the two wire from the body above the wire from the arms (see the photo below). Stuff the arms using a toothpick, but not too thight.
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38) 4 dec, 21 sc, 4 dec, 17 sc. (46) 39) 4 dec, 13 sc, 4 dec, 15 sc, dec. (37) 40) 2 dec, 13 sc, 3 dec, 12 sc, dec. (31) Stuff it. 41) 2 dec, 9 sc, 3 dec, 10 sc, dec. (25) 42) 2 dec, 5 sc, 3 dec, 8 sc, dec. (19) 43) dec, 5 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc. (16) 44) - 48) 16 sc. (16) 49) 8 dec. (8) 50)-64) 8 sc. (8) - that’s the pin where you will place the head Cut the thread, close the remaining hole.
Additionally, you can make nipples and navel with the thread you’ve left outside the breast. For the navel, you just make a couple of stitches outside the belly. And how to make a nipples is shown in the photos below (you make 2 turns of the thread around the needle and return the needle to the same point where the thread comes out and tighten the thread so there a neat knot remains outside.
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HEAD Make 12 ch and close it to the ring with a sl st. 1 - 5) 12 sc. (12) – place the marker 6) In FLO all this row: 6 sc, (3 ch, 2 sc in the chain), 6 sc. (14) 7) (inc, sc)*3, (inc, sc)*2 in the chain, (inc, sc)*3. (24)
(inc, sc)*2
(inc, sc)*3
(inc, sc)*3
8) (inc, 2 sc)*8 (32) 9) 32 sc. (32) 10) 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc)*4, 3 dec, (2 sc, inc)*4. (37)
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11) 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 2 dec, inc, 10 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc. (41) 12) 1 sc, (3sc, inc)*3, 16 sc, (inc, 3 sc)*3 (47) 13) 13 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc 11 sc. (50) 14) 50 sc. (50) Push the first 5 rows into the head, this is the basic for the swivel head.
The following 3 rows we will crochet the nose. 15) 25 sc, skip 1 sc, (in one st: 2 sc, 1 dc, 2 sc), skip 1 sc, 22 sc. (52) The nose should be right above the chin, if it is not the case, than work a few offset sts.
16) 25 sc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc, 2 hdc in one st, 1 sc, skip 1 sc, 22 sc. (51) 17) 17 sc, 3 dec, sc, skip 1 sc, 4 sc together, skip 1 sc, sc, 3 dec, 14 sc. (40)
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18) 40 sc. (40) 19) (7 sc, inc)*5. (45) 20) (8 sc, inc)* 5. (50) 21) - 26) 50 sc. (50) 27) (8 sc, dec)*5. (45) 28) 45 sc. (45) 29) (7 sc, dec)*5. (40) 30) (6 sc, dec)*5. (35) 31) (5 sc, dec)*5. (30) 32) (4 sc, dec)*5. (25) Stuff the head. But before you need to insert the skewer into the bottom hole or put the head on the neck pin. This is necessary to save the hole for the swivel head. Pay attention to the chin stuffing. You need to stuff whole head very tightly. 33) (3 sc, dec)*5. (20) 34) (2 sc, dec)*5. (15) Stuff it. 35) (sc, dec)*5. (10) 36) 5 dec. (5) Stuff it and close the hole. Add more stuffing through the hole for the neack. Sculpt the nose and the whole head with your fingers. Take the nose and pull it. Sculpt the chin and the jaw line to make the lines smoother.
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face embroidery materials: embroidery threads: black, white, brown, pink, navy blue, blue, light blue. scissors; marker for fabric; needle; F-6000, B-6000 or Е-6000 adhasive.
Watch my detailed video for the eyes made in the same technique by c l i c k i n g o n t h e l i n k b e l ow i f yo u h ave a ny d i f fi c u l t i e s https://youtu.be/ky03k33Yg8w . The first step is to mark out where your eyes, lips and eyebrows will be. To do this, use a special fabric marker which disappears by itself over time.
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If you have a problem with drawing symmetrical eyes, then you can use a stencil. Just draw eye on a piece of paper or take any eyes you like on the Internet, cut them along the contour, secure with needles on the head and circle with a marker. Thread one black thread and fold it in half. Push the needle through the back of the head to the front in to the pupil. Stick the tip of the needle into the center of the pupil (this is necessary to facilitate the winding of the thread). Glue the pupil with glue and begin to wind and press the thread in a spiral, as in the photo below.
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Make several turns of the thread around the needle, filling the space of the pupil. Then withdraw the needle to the other pupil and repeat the same thing, since it is better to make the eyes in parallel so that they come out symmetrically.
Next, embroider the upper eyelid in one thread of brown or black color. Withdraw the thread at the outer corner of the eye. Glue the upper contour of the eye, apply a thread and bring the needle through the inner corner of the eye. If desired, make 1-2 more shorter stitches to thicken the eyelid line.
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Change the thread to the color for the iris, fold it in half. Withdraw the needle at the pupil on the border with the upper eyelid. Glue the area along the contour of the pupil with glue and glue the thread. Repeat the same actions several more times until the entire iris area is filled
P.S. You do not need to coat the entire iris area at once, but it is better to do it in stages for each stitch separately.
Then you take a thread of a lighter shade than the iris and make a color transition on the iris with short stitches. You can take 3 colors (for me it is blue, light blue and white).
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Next, change the thread to white (fold the thread in half) and fill in the area of the white of the eye, glueing each stitch with glue. Adjust the stitch length if you want uneven protein thickness around the outer and inner corners of the eye. Fill in the entire area of the protein and repeat for the second eye.
Using the same white thread make a “glare”.
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Change the color of the thread to brown and make the lower eyelid, as in the photo below.
Change the thread to pink (in one thread). You can watch the video for the lips by clicking on the following link --> https://youtu.be/M8StjXelIkA . Put the dashed seam along the contour of the upper lip.
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Then close this seam with the second one, threading the needle under each stitch of the first seam.
After that, fill the resulting space with satin stitch. If you want your dolls lips to look more voluminous, then go over again with a satin stitch on top. Repeat the same actions for the lower lip. Then take a needle with a brown thread and glue it between the upper and lower lips (or do a single stitches at the corners of the lips).
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Using the same brown thread make a fold of the upper eyelid .
Change the thread to the color for eyebrows (one thread). Bring the needle and thread to the outer corner of the eyebrow. Embroider eyebrows by analogy with the lips. Fill in the resulting eyebrow space with stitches if necessary. Repeat for the second eyebrow.
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ears Use the same pattern below for both ears. LEFT EAR: In MR 2 sc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, sc. (7) - leave the ends 5 cm long RIGHT EAR: In MR 1 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 sc. (7) - leave the ends 5 cm long
Attach them to the head with the ends of the threads you left and then you can additionally sew them.
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EYELASHES (STEP 1) materials: Embroidery threads or sewing threads (the color you want the doll's eyelashes to be); Scissors; Tailor's pins; Acrylic varnish or PVA glue; Paint brush (or something other you will use to apply varnish to the eyelashes); Stick from a helium pen or a wooden skewer.
Make eyelashes in 2 stages. It is more convenient to perform the first stage before attaching the hair, the second stage is performed after attaching the hair. You can see how eyelashes are made in the same video as for eye embroidery. However, in that video, I am not using tailor's pins to secure the threads. The technique of making eyelashes with pins, described below in this MK, I like more with its result.
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Take the thread with which you will make the eyelashes, thread it into a needle (in one thread), tie a knot at the end. You can also make eyelashes in two strands if you want thicker eyelashes. Draw the needle through the back of the doll's head to the border of the upper eyelid. Pull the thread through the back of your head along with the knot. Cut off the thread so that the tip is 5 cm long (or more). This will make it more convenient after separating the eyelashes. Repeat the same steps a few more times for one and the other eye. In the same way, you can make eyelashes on the lower eyelid of the eye.
At this stage, for now, leave the eyelashes in this state. It is better to finish the eyelashes after the hair is glued, otherwise the eyelashes will wrinkle.
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attaching of the hair materials:
weft 1 m or mohair curls about 10-15 gm (depends on the curls length); Scissors; Marker for fabric; F-6000, В-6000 or B-7000 adhesive.
If you would like to make the hair from acrylic yarn yourself, then you can watch the video on my channel --> https://youtu.be/wH9E0LE_SdY
P.S. I would also like to note that acrylic hair should be used only for interior dolls, as they require special care. Watch the video of how to make a mohair weft here--> https://clck.ru/WUL4G Using a marker for fabric mark out the hair line on the head. Glue the hair starting from the back of the head and along the hair line. After you finish to glue this row, continue to glue the hair in a spiral. If you’ve got a thin hair, as I used for my doll, then you should glue them back to back each row. But if you got a thick hair then you should glue them leaving a few millimeters between the rows on the back of the head, other way you are going to have to much hair volume on the dolls head.
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After you reach the center of the crown, cut the weft. Take 10 cm of the weft and twist it. Glue this piece to prevent it from untwisting. Glue this srand to the top of the doll’s head. Fix this piece of hair with a Tailor’s pins until the glue dries out.
If that strand of hair will be sticking out, then just cover the head with a piece of fabric and iron that area.
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eyelashes (step 2) After attaching the hair, you proceed to the second stage of creating the eyelashes. Take a rod from a helium pen or a wooden skewer. Cut off 4 pieces of 2 cm. Put these pieces under the eyelashes (this is necessary in order to give the eyelashes a bend and so that they do not stick to the head). Then you take acrylic varnish (or PVA glue) and a brush. When using a brush, apply varnish to the eyelashes (but not to the entire length, but only to the one you plan to leave). Soak the lashes at the base thoroughly. Stretch and secure each lash strand with tailor's pins so that the strands do not touch each other, otherwise they may stick together.
Wait until the eyelashes are completely dry or use a hair dryer. Then remove all the pins and remove the rollers from under the lashes. Use scissors to trim off excess lashes. If some eyelashes are still flattened, then just wind them on a knitting needle or something like that. If a film of glue remains between the eyelashes, gently remove it with tweezers.
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shading Moving on to the final part - shading the face and body. For shading, you can use pastels or eyeshadow. I use a regular eyeshadow palette for shading dolls and blushes for makeup, as the eyeshadows have a large selection of tones and low pigmentation (you can not be afraid to overdo it with tone). And pastel, in turn, I use for toning the details of clothing, as it has more intense and persistent shades.
You will also need brushes of different sizes and matte acrylic varnish to cover the paintings (or PVA glue), to fix the shading. If you do not plan to varnish your face and body after shading, then you can apply more pigment. Well, if you use varnish, then the pigment should be applied less, since it darkens a little from varnish. I recommend shading the following areas of the face: · Cheeks; · Protruding part of the chin; · Ears; · Hair growth line; · Bridge of the nose; · Under the lower eyelid; · Over the upper eyelid; · Above the upper lip; · Under the lower lip;
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· In the corners of the lips; · Between the lips (I like to use red pastel); · Under the nose; · Under the eyebrows (you can also slightly tint the tip of the eyebrow so that there is a smooth color transition); · You can also tint the iris area with a dark color under the upper eyelid, if suddenly your doll has too wide-open (surprised) eyes.
For the body, I also recommend applying tone, as this will make the curves of the doll more expressive. The tone is applied to the following areas: · Elbows and their bends; · Brushes; · Palms; · Armpits; · Neck; · Clavicle; · Under the breast and between; · The navel;
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· Groin area; · Buttocks; · Knees and bend under the knees; · Ankles; · Toes. If you want your doll not to lose its shade (especially if the doll is a play doll, not an interior doll), then the places where the tone is applied should be covered with acrylic varnish (or PVA glue with water). Apply the varnish with a hammering motion. Especially carefully it is necessary to apply varnish on the face, otherwise the shading may "float". While you are applying the varnish on the doll’s face, you can straighten the nose again with your fingers and give the desired shape (before the varnish dries). You can also varnish the pin on which the head is put on to make it stiffer. It is imperative to varnish the doll's fingers so that they become thin, neat and do not curl. To do this, apply a generous amount of varnish to the fingers, as well as the entire palm of the doll. Let the varnish soak for 5 minutes. Then press each finger of the doll with round-nose pliers or your own fingers (see photo below). We also give the shape of the palm, without waiting for the varnish to dry. To do this, press the doll's thumb to the center of the palm.
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LINKS FOR “ROSETTE” PATTERN VIDEOS: PALM - https://clck.ru/WntNn EYES EMBROIDERY - https://youtu.be/ky03k33Yg8w LIPS EMBROIDERY - https://youtu.be/M8StjXelIkA ACYLIC HAIR - https://youtu.be/wH9E0LE_SdY MOHAIT WEFT - https://clck.ru/WUL4G