February 2020

DON’T MISS: HOW TO FIGHT BACK FROM YOUR HOMESTEAD

WHY DRONES NEED TO BE PART OF YOUR PLAN

IN THIS ISSUE:

SIMPLE TRAPS TO CATCH YOUR DINNER DON’T LET FROSTBITE SNEAK UP ON YOU STAYING SAFE WHEN YOU’RE WALKING ON ICE

FEBRUARY 2020

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN YOUR RIFLE SCOPE PRACTICAL TIPS FOR A FASTER EVACUATION BUG OUT SUPPLIES TO SURVIVE THE CITY and more…

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020

Contents FEATURED

HOW TO FIGHT BACK FROM YOUR HOMESTEAD You already know you’re leagues ahead of your neighbors when it comes to being prepared, but one area too many survivalists fail to account for is just how far hungry and deprived people…

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WHY DRONES NEED TO BE PART OF YOUR PLAN When I first got a drone, I had a lot of fun just playing around, recording silly aerial movies of me and my kids, but it actually comes in handy on our property. Far more than I thought…

page 5

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN YOUR RIFLE SCOPE If you’re wanting to boost your accuracy with your rifle, I have one simple suggestion. You need to get a scope. You’ll land more shots, send your kill rate through the roof, and bring home…

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PREPPING STRATEGIES FOR THE SOLO SURVIVALIST I used to think prepping with my entire family was tough, and since I started I’ve been blessed to bring a couple of trusted families into my circles so we’ve now got an incredibly strong…

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BUG OUT SUPPLIES TO SURVIVE IN THE CITY I spent the better part of my life in office towers, traffic jams and the constant bustle of people, and it’s only been recently that my work and my family have been able to relocate to…

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SIMPLE TRAPS TO CATCH YOUR DINNER There are a number of ways you can trap different animals to put food on your plate, but let me make this very clear. Trapping is not a guarantee. In fact, a lot of the time you will find…

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DON’T LET FROSTBITE SNEAK UP ON YOU There’s no question it’s a lot easier spending time outdoors during summer, the sunny days and warm nights are comfortable, and easy to enjoy. But I’m also a big winter fan, and after a near…

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STAYING SAFE WHEN YOU’RE WALKING ON ICE This last week I had a close encounter of my own, where the ice we were fishing on cracked through as we made our way home for the day. We’d crossed to the opposite bank to drive out…

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PRACTICAL TIPS FOR A FASTER EVACUATION With the bushfires raging across Australia it’s got me thinking about the importance of evacuation. Many of the lives lost have been people, trapped in their homes, in their cars, as… …

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VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020

HOW TO FIGHT BACK FROM YOUR HOMESTEAD You already know you’re leagues ahead of your neighbors when it comes to being prepared, but one area too many survivalists fail to account for is just how far hungry and deprived people will go when the SHTF. Your home, and all of your stockpile is like a giant target, and it’s in your best interest to know how to fight back when they’re trying to take what’s yours. Your job is not only to be ready for whatever comes, but to be able to protect and defend your home, from the criminals who were too lazy, or too unwilling to prepare themselves. In today’s post, I’ll share exactly how you can keep your home safe, and fight back from your homestead. Let’s get right into it. COVERING ACCESS POINTS For starters, you need to cover every entry point to your home, every route onto your property. Look to any driveways, roads or even potential access points, and pay particular attention to any open spaces that could be driven through with an ATV or a 4WD. You don’t want to give any intruders a straight shot to your house, so cover these access points.

Yes, they’re also your escape routes, but don’t let the bad guys drive up to your door. We’ve added quick growing pines along all of our perimeter (thick enough that a car cannot pass), to create a natural barrier that deters unwelcome guests. I’ve also got cattle drains on every road in, double spaced and dug out at least 2-3-feet-deep, so as soon as we remove the grids, you can’t drive a car over the gulley’s which means in a crisis it’s going to take real effort to get in close. In addition, there’s trees strategically planted that can be felled over both the entry points (and main drive in from the road) to conceal and cover the access points to our property. Unless you know it’s there, you are more than likely going to drive right past our homestead. MAPPING OUT DISTANCES Next comes the range. If you’re used to long distance shooting you know how important it is for your accuracy to zero in your firearms for specific ranges. We’ve got an almost arsenal of weapons at our disposal, but even longrange rifles aren’t going to be effective

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if you’re not zoned in on your targets as they come up on approach. We’ve painted markers on the trees starting from 200 yards out, and then at 150, 100 and 50. I’m a good shot and I improve when I know the range, but I’m no sharpshooter, and I know I’m not all that accurate shooting at long distances above and beyond this. Plus, our property is pretty heavily wooded, and you can’t see much further than this anyway.

“it’s in your best interest to know how to fight back…”

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020 cont. DIGGING IN FOR COVER To fight back you need cover, and the best fortifications are those you’ve been able to plan in advance. From our home we’ve got heavily fortified shooting locations from the basement (which ties into our escape plan), but in our surrounding yard we’ve also created natural rises and defenses. I borrowed an excavator a couple of years ago to help with this, cutting into the natural hills and rises around our property, and building up those that were there. Right now, there’s at least 4 different positions you can shoot from with dense earth cover, and a couple of spots in the trees we’ve setup “for our kids” to play in, and as a high position for anyone with a rifle, complete with ziplines back to our home. The kids love them, while being completely practical too. USING FORCE MULTIPLIERS Unless you’re part of a large survival group you’re probably going to be on your own on your property, with a handful of close family members trying to defend against a more mobile, (and probably much larger) attacking force. In this instance, you’re going to want any advantage you can get, and that’s where force multipliers come into play, advantages that help to support and augment your defense. Anything that can give you an edge in a fight is a multiplier, and you’ve got an advantage already because it’s your property. I’ve got fences and razor wire protecting some of the more remote areas of my property, as well as motiontriggered lighting and security cameras. It may seem like overkill, but being able to tell you, at the click of a button, who has just walked up to our gate, or whether there is movement along one of the perimeter fences helps us sleep far better at night knowing we are safe and secure in our bubble. Not to mention the motion-triggered lighting that brightens up our home like a football field on game night, and the guard dogs which have been trained to be decidedly vicious to anyone not in our family. These are all force multipliers you need to take advantage of to keep your home safe.

PLANNING FOR AN ESCAPE Of course, even with the best laid plans you can’t account for everything, and with enough people and enough time, even the most fortified homes can be overrun. Your job in this instance is to plan for your escape. To have a hidden way out that allows you and your family to run for safety when all hope is lost. Perhaps they’ve gotten close and firebombed your home, or simply overpowered your defenses with sheer numbers. You need an escape plan, otherwise you risk getting trapped and being at the mercy of your attackers. Ours is rather simple, though it was a headache to get built. From our basement you can access our safe room, which is essentially just an underground bunker.

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But the kicker is the hatch in the roof, which opens up to a tunnel just a couple of feet underground. Using drain pipes, we built a 50-60ft escape tunnel, that gets you to the other side of a large thicket of trees, and a small shed containing two ATVs and a motorbike, so we can get out of dodge fast, and unnoticed, no matter what’s happening at our main homestead. I t’s not ideal, but in a pinch the last thing I want to be is trapped, and at the mercy of those trying to break in. Being prepared is key when it comes to defending your home, and the smart survivalists, the ones who are actually going to make it through a SHTF event aren’t the ones who built up a big stockpile of supplies. The ones who survive are the ones who know how to fight back, and defend everything they’ve painstakingly put together.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020

WHY DRONES NEED TO BE PART OF YOUR PLAN When I first got a drone, I had a lot of fun just playing around, recording silly aerial movies of me and my kids, but it actually comes in handy on our property. Far more than I thought it would, and it got me thinking about just how practical they can be as tools. I mean, there’s a reason the military uses drones, using them for everything from surveillance to tactical missions. You can get a feel for a situation with a drone, before sending the troops in. Now, I’ll fill you in on how I plan to use my drones (yep, that’s a plural) in a minute, and how I’ve been using my latest tech toys around my property. But first though, comes the all-important question… HOW TO KEEP IT CHARGED? We all know power is going to be in short supply in a grid down scenario, and drones are power-hungry little machines. You’ll get maybe 15 to 20 minutes of flying time on a single charge. That’s not a lot, and you need to be sure you’re generating enough juice through your off-grid sources to keep the batteries going or you’ll wind up with a bunch of paperweights. So, run your numbers and make sure your setup is generating enough power before you start buying drones for your homestead. Once that’s sorted, here’s how they can help. SCOUTING YOUR FENCES If I were to walk my entire fence line, it’d take me the better part of the day. Even riding it on an ATV takes far too long, burning petrol (which is in short supply too). But in a SHTF situation riding my fence line puts me in danger. On my property, that’s where I’m most likely to be spotted. With a drone, I can fly the entire route on a single charge, from the comfort of my dining room, and check everything is alright. This is especially important after a storm, when branches or fallen trees could have damaged parts of the fence line where my cattle can get out.

SEARCHING NEW RESOURCES When we built our bug out cabin it took months of exploring until we found the perfect location, a hidden spring tucked away deep in the back of our property. But on a recent fly over I noticed something. The pond that forms is quite visible from the sky, but almost impossible to find on foot. If I was using the drone back then, I could have saved so much time from our search. If you want to quickly search an area, looking for new resources, using a drone is one of the most effective ways to find what you’re looking for. PATROLLING A BORDER Now here’s where things get fun. It took me a while to figure out but there’s also a pre-programmed setting on my drone that allows me to record a flight path and send the drone on patrol. Once I set this up it became that much easier scout my fence lines (I simply run the program and watch the feed), but this has another practical use.

Insurgents have already been using this technique against our military, and while a tad controversial, it’s also rather effective. Fit a grenade to your drone and crash it into someone trying to storm your property? That’ll get far more range than I could throw it, and I’m sure it’d take any approaching force by surprise. HOW ABOUT THE NOISE?

In a SHTF situation, you could use your drone to run surveillance along a border during a firefight. Obviously, it may be the drones last flight (anyone intent on doing you harm will probably shoot it down), but you’ll get some valuable intel on your feed as to what’s coming.

Finally, and I did get asked this a lot, but how about the noise? When a drone is close, you can definitely hear the buzz, but once you get a few hundred feet in the air it’s much harder to notice. Unless you’re planning on flying right up to someone, there’s a high likelihood they won’t even notice that you’re flying a drone, and that’s exactly how I like it.

INVESTIGATING DISTURBANCE

PROTECTING AGAINST DRONES?

A

I also use my drones as investigators. They’ve got flashlights I can turn on and off, so when I get an alarm from one of my far-flung motion sensors during the night I can quickly boot one up and go see what’s happening. It’s a relief most of the time (we’ve had a couple of deer and one bear so far), but knowing I’ve got the ability to see what’s happening, on all parts of my property in minutes, well it gives me more peace of mind, especially living this isolated. It also makes it really easy to check whether or not there’s any mail, without the mile walk to our letter box at the end of the driveway. DROPPING A PAYLOAD Now I’ve not tested this yet (I rather like my drones thank you), but I have considered weaponizing my drones as a last line of defense against an attack.

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Unfortunately, there’s not a lot you can do to protect against a drone. They’re quick, and you can’t get your hands on the lasers or signal jammers the military uses to protect against them. My advice, if you see a drone investigating your property (after the SHTF of course) is to shoot it down. It’s good target practice, and shows whoever watching they better not step into your property because you’re ready and willing to fight back. The last thing you want is people snooping on everything you’ve been preparing so they can steal it for themselves. In my opinion, drones have been a fun addition to our homestead. The kids love flying them, and they’re also quite practical, giving me the ability to scout disturbances and see what’s going on in all corners of my property, without having to trek there myself. Saving me time, effort, and freeing me up for everything else that needs to get done.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020 DO I EVEN NEED A SCOPE? Unless your only firearm is a handgun, my opinion is yes. You need a scope for all of your rifles. You’ll have a better chance of hitting your target (whether you’re aiming at a deer, or some other intruder who needs to be defended against), and that’s critical. Because you’ve only got so much ammunition, you want to make every bullet count. Plus, some scopes even come equipped with night vision, which means you’ll be able to better defend your home, even in the middle of the night. And let’s face it, that’s probably when the bag guys will come. CHOOSE THE RIGHT SCOPE To me, there’s a few things I look for when buying a scope.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN YOUR RIFLE SCOPE If you’re wanting to boost your accuracy with your rifle, I have one simple suggestion. You need to get a scope. You’ll land more shots, send your kill rate through the roof, and bring home more meat after every hunt. It’s that simple. I even have a scope on my little .22 rifle now, because it makes my shots so much cleaner, and I’m missing almost no rabbits now. WHAT DOES A SCOPE DO? At the most basic level, a scope for your rifle is simply a telescopic lens, allowing you to see targets at a distance more clearly. When you close your other eye to look through the scope, you’ll see what I mean. But unlike a pair of binoculars which have a clear field of view, you’ll notice an overlaid grid as you peer through. That’s the reticle, and that’s how you aim. Using a scope on your rifle increases your range incredibly. Of course, it’s not automatic. You will need to practice, and learn how to adjust for factors like elevation, wind, and take some practice shots. But as you get used to shooting with a scope, you will find yourself landing better and better shots. UNDERSTAND THE TERMS I got confused with all the terms at first too, so let me explain it to you.

If there’s a range of numbers on your scope, say a 3x-9x, this means you’ve got a variable range of magnification, basically, your scope can zoom in and out. This is ideal if you’re going to be shooting in different conditions, at different ranges. If it’s a single number, like a 3x or 5x, that’s a fixed scope, and it won’t change the level of zoom. The next number that comes is size of the lens. Generally, it’s something like 32, which means there’s a 32mm lens in your scope. You can get bigger lenses that let in more light, but these also get heavier and larger and you’ll need to manage that accordingly. Then comes reticle patterns. Personally, I’m a fan of the simple duplex pattern, it’s what I started using first and I got used to it. In the military they use the Mildot reticle, which help to estimate the distance a target is from you, and there’s also ones that help you gauge how the bullet will drop over long range. Finally, you’ve got the focal plane. First Focal Plane (FFP) means the size of the reticle will adjust as you change magnification, so it’ll enlarge as you zoom in. The Second Focal Plane (SFP) reticle stays the same, no matter how you zoom. For me, I like the SFP because it’s always clear, no matter how the magnification changes.

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You want the ability to adjust for wind and elevation, which is advertised as having audible and reliable turrets. That way you can adjust the scope for the conditions you’re in, sighting in your shots so you’re always shooting true. I’d also make sure there’s plenty of distance between the scope and your eye when you’re shooting, at least 3 or 4 inches so there’s some buffer for the recoil of your gun. You don’t want to give yourself a black eye! Finally, buying the right scope all comes down to what you’re planning to shoot. As a hunter, if you’re chasing small game, rabbits or perhaps even looking for a scope that’ll help you defend your property, you should choose a scope with a magnification of 1x-4x. As a big game hunter, chasing animals that won’t let you get in close (but still within about 200 years), you’re going to want a little more magnification, something that’s at least 5x-8x so you can zoom in and shoot with accuracy. As a long-range shooter, you want as much magnification as possible, which is basically a 9x magnification or anything above. That’ll give you plenty of magnification, then all you’ll need to worry about is finding a stable base and zeroing in your shots. If you’re serious about defending your home, bringing home a catch after a day out hunting, or simply becoming a more accurate shooter, it’s a smart decision to invest in a scope for your rifle. The increased magnification will help you to land more of your shots, because when it comes to shooting, you want to be as accurate as possible.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020

PREPPING STRATEGIES FOR THE SOLO SURVIVALIST I used to think prepping with my entire family was tough, and since I started I’ve been blessed to bring a couple of trusted families into my circles so we’ve now got an incredibly strong team that’ll band together to make it through whatever comes our way.

YOU ARE YOUR ONLY BACKUP When you’re doing this on your own, you don’t have anyone else you can rely on. You need to take extra precautions with everything that you do.

But it’s not like this for everyone, in fact, many people are tackling survival alone. If that’s you, I tip my cap to you.

That means no unnecessary risks, no “Bear Grylls” type escapades, because if something goes wrong or you get into a spot of trouble, you’ve got no one to call.

What you’re doing is tough as hell, but I do understand you may not have a choice. And that brings me to Marty (*not his real name).

In fact, there may not even be anyone who knows where you are.

You see, Marty is a bit like you, my kids call him the friendly neighborhood prepper man. But really, we don’t know all that much about him. He has his own cabin in the area a few miles from ours, and I’ve bumped into him just a few times over the last decade. The last time we were up there, Marty came by for a drink, and I could tell he was a little lonely. We got to talking, and after more than a few drinks he opened up and I started hearing his backstory, and there were a few lessons in his stories that I’d like to share with you, especially important if you’re also planning on surviving solo.

He was craving for contact, but you could tell he only wanted small doses. In fact, the way he spoke I got the feeling this was the most interaction he’d had with the outside world for months. If you’re planning a lifestyle like this, you need to be ready for long periods without much other human interaction at all. And after a crisis, you never know who you can really trust.

Take your time, be safe, and don’t let yourself get caught out. Marty rolled his ankle last summer, (he said that’s the “bugger of getting old'”), and yet there was no one to help. It took him two days to get back to his cabin, he’s just happy the nights were warm and he’d already shot a rabbit to cook that first night. When you’re solo, you are your only backup, and you need to be prepared for it. The only one who can save you, is you. YOU WILL GET LONELY I could see this all over Marty’s face.

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“The only one who can save you, is you.…”

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020 cont. My advice to him was to get a dog (he used to have but it had since passed away), and the next time we head up there I’m going to bring him a rescue from our local shelter. It’ll give him some of the companionship he’s craving. Plus, a dog makes for an excellent lookout as another pair of eyes and ears for any threats. YOU’LL NEED TO DO EVERYTHING Of course, skills come with time and practice, but there’s a few things in our household I know I’m rubbish at. Like cooking. Unless it’s grilled over a flame, the taste of what I make does leave a bit to be desired. Now expand that to everything. You’re going to have to find your own food, repair your own cabin, cook your own meals, and take care of yourself when you get sick. There is a massive amount to learn and master, when you do this solo. You’ll need to know where to find food, and how to purify water. How to mend your clothes, and grow your garden. How to fix a leaky roof or get the engine running in your car again. So many tasks, it almost seems impossible at the first glance, but all of this can be learnt. You just need to start small, and start learning today. YOU’LL ONLY HAVE YOUR TWO HANDS Along the lines of this last point, is there will only ever be one of you. Shoot a deer, and you’re going to have to carry it home yourself. I can’t imagine building a cabin solo, but that’s exactly what Marty did. Using ingenuity, and in his own words “a boatload of ropes and pulleys” he even invited me up there on our next trip to inspect his handiwork. I’m still in shock. The last cabin we built for our survival group took a month, and there were six of us, plus some pretty heavy-duty equipment. Marty is a beast, I can’t wait to see it.

As a solo survivalist you’ll need to think of ways to accomplish big tasks like this, with just your own two hands. You’ll need to create systems and mechanisms that make your life easier, because there is, and only ever will be, just one of you. Whether it’s a bike trailer to help you haul a fresh kill, or a set of traps that are working to bring you meals while you get on with other jobs, you will need to find ways to multiply your effectiveness as a solo survivalist.

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Surviving on your own isn’t for everyone, but if that’s what you’re thinking you need to know what you’re in for, so you can prepare. Both mentally, physically, and ensure you’ve got the knowledge, know-how and grit, to keep yourself alive and thriving, even while the rest of the world descends into chaos. If this is you, you’ve got my respect, I know I couldn’t do it alone. Which makes you a stronger man (or woman) than me. Kudos, and respect.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020

BUG OUT SUPPLIES TO SURVIVE IN THE CITY I spent the better part of my life in office towers, traffic jams and the constant bustle of people, and it’s only been recently that my work and my family have been able to relocate to our homestead. But I’ve been prepping for a long time, and even though a fire making kit is a token addition for your bug-out-bag (and the first thing almost every list recommends), there’s a few items you should probably add if you’re a survivalist living in the city. HANDGUN OR REVOLVER With so many people in such a confined area, my biggest concern was always my safety. Get your concealed carry permit, and start carrying your firearm everywhere you go. Or if you can’t make sure you’ve at least got a license to own a gun, and you’ve got it stored securely in your home or your car. And then keep some kind of selfdefensive weapon on your person, so you’re never without a means to protect yourself. I always carried a knife, and a small canister of pepper spray on me, just in case. PAIR OF BOLT CUTTERS Now, you’re going to get a lot of funny looks carrying these around, but should the SHTF you’re going to need them. Because everywhere is going to be locked to you, supply stations padlocked shut, gates barricaded. I’m not saying here that stealing is OK, but in a real disaster you need every survival advantage you can get, and a pair of bolt cutters will help you get into a lot of places that would otherwise be off limits. SMALL CROWBAR Similar to the bolt cutters, a pry bar will come in handy in your urban bug out kit. But not just for breaking in, to help you get out of sticky situations too.

To get through a damaged door, or break through the lock, even prying open a window. Plus, in your hands a pry bar can also serve as a weapon, to fight back against anyone who is intending you harm. Again, keep this in your car, or one of your hidden caches, and you’ll be good to go. LOCK-PICKING KIT It takes a little practice to get the hang of it, but one of your best assets to survive in the city is to get where other people can’t go. Getting past locked doors, and then securing yourself inside. This is a whole other level to simply smashing a door down, because if you can open the door without a key, you can lock it shut behind you, and get a good night’s sleep. I’ve got a small set that I’ve been practicing with, and while I’m no savant, I’m surprised at just how many locks I’ve been able to pick. RAIN GEAR

I opted for the N95 respirator because while it’s not going to give the same level of protection as a full-face mask, I can still carry this with me without raising any suspicion before a crisis hits. FLASHLIGHT In a city it can be hard to know who is lurking around a corner, or tucked back into a dimly lit alleyway. And in a disaster, you can’t expect the power to stay on, so that means navigating at night will be a challenge, not to mention all the pitch-black stairways inside the office buildings. You need a source of light, and for me, that was simple. A strikelight has two key benefits, not only does it give me a flashlight, but it’s weighted and serves as a baton that you can use if you do happen to stumble across someone waiting in the dark for you. ENCRYPTED THUMB DRIVE

RESPIRATOR

It’s important you’ve got digital copies of all your important information with you. I’ve got a small USB that’s got a waterproof cover, and it lives on my keychain. Inside, so long as I can plug it into a computer or laptop, I’ve got a copy of all my personal data, along with my contacts, medical history, all of this. Now see how I called it encrypted. You need a program to encrypt this thumb drive otherwise you risk anyone having access to it if you lose your keys (or they rob you and take them by force). I’d also recommend keeping a backup in the cloud for this reason.

Did you know that thousands of the first responders to the 9/11 disaster are linking their cancer to the dust and toxins they inhaled that day? It was a scary wake up call for me too, considering that same scenario could have happened to any city in the United States. Once I learnt this fact, I started carrying my own masks.

Now, it goes without saying this isn’t a full list, and I’ve intentionally left out certain items that feature heavily when you google “the best bug out kits” because we all know you need first aid gear, and water, and food and all that. But if you’re in a city, it’ll pay you to ensure you have these extra items, so you’re prepared to survive.

Getting caught out in the rain is not ideal, and one thing many people overlook is what happens when they get wet, but can’t get dry again. You need a way to stay dry, and short of carrying a rain jacket everywhere you go, those cheap plastic ones you can pick up in almost every convenience store will help in a pinch to keep the water at bay, long enough until you find somewhere safe to shelter that’s out of the rain.

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VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020 The trigger stick should be baited (peanut butter works great), then carefully insert the trigger stick into the groove. It may collapse at this point so be very careful, and once you’ve got it, it’s ready. Any movement on the trigger will cause the support sticks to fall, and the deadfall to work. GO SETUP A GAME TRAP

SIMPLE TRAPS TO CATCH YOUR DINNER There are a number of ways you can trap different animals to put food on your plate, but let me make this very clear. Trapping is not a guarantee. In fact, a lot of the time you will find yourself going hungry, and you may even go a few days between catching a decent meal. That being said, it’s also important to know how you’re planning on making the best use of the animal you do catch, and ensure none of the meat goes to waste. Right, let’s get to the ways to catch your dinner. GO SETUP FIXED SNARES I always recommend using a strong, thin wire for my snares, but if you’re out of options fishing line can work, or any other strong cord. Now, a snare is really just a noose, that’s got a loop and will tighten once an animal gets caught inside and tries to run. For this trap to work you will need to find an area with lots of animal activity (like a game trail). You’ll notice these when you’ve spent time in the woods, they’re paths the animals create, and easily recognizable through the undergrowth that’s been pushed aside. I usually keep an eye out for good potential game trails as I hike. Then you’ll need to tie the snare off, so once an animal is trapped they cannot simply run off.

Look for something solid, like a thick branch or a tree trunk that will not break as they fight against your snare. Create a sliding loop in the wire, and position it just off the ground. I find I get the best results if I camouflage my snare with some leaves or branches, and set it behind a curve or another obstacle in the trail. Then go setup more, the more snares you setup, the better your chances of a decent meal. GO SETUP DEADFALLS Deadfalls are a great trap if you’re trying to catch rodents, like pack rats or even squirrels. You’ll need to find a big heavy rock, that’s your deadfall, along with a few sticks to hold the trap in place. Without too much gear, I like using a split-stick deadfall. Take a length of branch about a foot long, and an inch thick, and cut it in half for your support sticks. In each side of the cut, carve a groove, big enough to fit a pencil in. So when you press the two lengths of branch together, they fit together clean, with a hole you can see through. Go find a trigger stick, about the size and length of a pencil, you may need to whittle this down so it sits flush inside the groove between the two support sticks. Then holding the two support sticks together, prop up your deadfall.

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Now I’m all for big game, but the reality in a SHTF event is that anything large is going to be taken down pretty quickly. But one place you can still get your calories in are birds and other small critters. Using a different snare (it needs to be under tension) this is pretty easy. You’ll need two forked sticks (for the stake and the trigger), and a sapling you can bend down to add the tension. Drive the stake into the ground so the fork creates the shape of an “A” to give your trigger point. Tie a loose noose in your cord, and behind the loop, tie the trigger stick in, and then tie the cord to the top of the sapling you’ll use for tension. You may need to experiment to get the right cord length, but the idea is you’ll bend the sapling down, getting the trigger to gently hook into the stake you’ve driven into the ground. They shouldn’t “lock” together, it’s more like a very delicate balance. Spread the noose out on the ground, and toss out some bait. Grains or rice will work. And once an animal (or a bird) comes in to feed on the bait, they’ll bump or move the noose, setting the trigger free and the sapling will spring back into place. As it does, the noose will snap shut, trapping whatever part of the animal was inside it at the time. When you come back, they’ll be stuck waiting for you in your trap. I’ve been hunting and trapping for years, and the danger I see with these techniques is twofold. First, you need to be ver y careful setting snares, particularly when they are under tension because if you slip, and it activates with your finger inside, it can do a world of damage (especially if you’re using wire). And two, make sure you’re not leaving any traps behind when you decide to move on. They are deadly, and there’s no point leaving a lethal trap activated if you won’t be there to make use of your catch. Oh, and remember how I said there are no guarantees? I’d also think of a backup plan, because there will be days when you’ve done everything perfectly, and you catch nothing. That’s just life, so be prepared.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020

DON’T LET FROSTBITE SNEAK UP ON YOU There’s no question it’s a lot easier spending time outdoors during summer, the sunny days and warm nights are comfortable, and easy to enjoy. But I’m also a big winter fan, and after a near disastrous ice fishing trip a couple of weeks ago, I wanted to write an article on frostbite. You see, I almost fell through the ice, ATV and all, and while it was definitely my own fault, there’s a few things I wanted to share with all of you. I believe every survivalist should know how to treat frostbite. It’s a surprising situation, that can sneak up on you (or someone in your group) without you even knowing. WHAT IS FROSTBITE? When your skin is exposed to extremely cold temperatures, the blood leaves the area as fast as it can, to keep your core as warm as possible. This is a basic survival mechanism of your body, to ensure your heart and lungs stay working, and you keep breathing. But the parts of your body that don’t get fresh blood, all of your extremities like your fingers, toes, and even your ears, now start to freeze. That’s frostbite. The trouble is, when it gets bad enough it actually kills the living tissue, and the frostbitten tissue dies. HOW BAD DOES IT GET? Typically, we measure frostbite by the level of degrees (like we do burns).

“every survivalist should know how to treat frostbite…”

First Degree Frostbite. This is a very mild case, and you’ll notice your skin has gone red, there may be some mild pain and when the warmth and blood returns, there will be a hot red flush to the area. Generally, this won’t result in any long-term damage to your skin. Second Degree Frostbite. This is a more serious case, as your skin has actually frozen. It may feel hard to the touch, like ice, and once you’ve warmed up again there will be pain. The skin will generally blister after a few days, but after a few weeks will heal. Though that in that particular area you may have a permanent sensitivity to cold from then on out. Third Degree Frostbite. This is the most serious case, as not only the skin has frozen, but your muscles, arteries and everything underneath has too. If you’ve let it get to this stage, you need to be prepared for the loss of limbs, as the affected areas may need to be amputated. Certain people, like the elderly, are at high risk for this level of frostbite. HOW DO I FIX FROSTBITE? My advice is to be careful. If you heat up someone suffering from frostbite too quickly it can cause a great deal of pain, not to mention their body can go into shock and they can die from being warmed up too quickly. Sounds unlikely I know, but the reality is this particular phenomenon is one of the biggest risks. You can’t shock the patient. Start with a passive rewarming, getting them into a warm area, into warm clothes, and using blankets or shared body heat to rise their core temperature. Starting a nearby fire is a good idea, just be careful they don’t get too close as they may not have any feeling yet in their skin, and you don’t want to be dealing with burns and frostbite too. Oh, and while it may feel like you’re helping, try to keep the patient as still as possible and “rubbing” them to create friction warmth is a very bad idea. The ice crystals that have formed in their skin are razor sharp, and moving these around will only cause more damage to the patient. Once they start warming up, you can switch to active rewarming. It’s important to start this as fast as possible (just not immediately), because the faster you get their extremities warmed up the better, as it reduces the chances of any longterm damage.

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The best way to do this is a warm water immersion. So find a way to heat up some water, (just over 100 degrees Fahrenheit is good), and drop the affected area into the water. The water is a very good conductor of heat, and the blood will quickly start to flow once the body part warms up again. You need to do this as soon as you can. If you’ve got nothing for immersion, use space blankets to create a heat shield, and reflect as much warmth from the fire to the patient as possible to help the defrosting process. STAYING VIGILANT AGAINST FROSTBITE Ultimately, your best defense against frostbite is a good offense. My strategy (as you probably know very well by now) is to always be prepared. It all starts with knowing where you’ll be hiking to, the conditions you’ll face, and having the right clothing, boots and shelter to manage the cold. It’s also a good idea to waterproof all of your outerwear, if it’s not already. But there’s also the fact accidents can happen, and you need to be ready too. Mylar space blankets can help with passive rewarming, and even help you throw together a quick shelter. Ensure you’ve got a way to start and keep a fire going, even in wet and rainy conditions, and I’d even throw in emergency hand and foot warmers if you are venturing outdoors in the winter. They’re a godsend if you do start to get frostbite. Knowing how to treat and prevent frostbite is an important survival skill, especially if you’re living in an area with a frozen winter. Because you never know when you may need to treat someone you love, for frostbite.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020

STAYING SAFE WHEN YOU’RE WALKING ON ICE This last week I had a close encounter of my own, where the ice we were fishing on cracked through as we made our way home for the day. We’d crossed to the opposite bank to drive out, opting for speed instead of a much slower trail ride, and it all started splitting as we crossed. Quite a scary situation. I thought we’d done everything right, but mother nature had other plans and she wanted to drag us down into the drink. Luckily, I didn’t get dropped in the icy water, but it got me thinking about the importance of staying safe on the ice. Because let’s face it. When winter hits you may be forced to make an ice crossing as you escape the city, or perhaps you need to get out on the lake to do a little fishing for your next meal.

And while you should never fully relax when you’re walking on solid water, there’s a few safety rules I’d highly recommend you follow to ensure you don’t fall through.

If it seems a little dodgy, stop.

PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT’S AROUND YOU

WEAR ALL THE RIGHT GEAR

Once you’ve measured and are sure it’s thick enough to support the weight you need, you can start moving onto the ice. But pay attention to everything that’s going on around you. If you’re walking over a fast-moving stream, you need to know the ice is going to be weaker as the flowing water underneath melts it through. There will be thinner sections in certain parts of the ice, and if you see any areas with pooling water, you want to steer clear – this indicates the ice sheet is already sinking, and can happen after a fresh snowfall (or even the weight from your car can push it down).

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And carefully retrace your steps until you’re back on solid ice.

It may seem a little overkill but there’s

“pay attention to everything that’s going on around you…”

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020 DON’T JUST WALK ON THE ICE Just because the ice “looks” safe, it doesn’t mean it actually is. There’re so many different factors that come into play, everything from the temperature that day to how long it’s been frozen over. You need to be vigilant if you want to stay dry. Probably the easiest way to test it is to bring a small, cordless drill with you, with an extra-long bit. With no drill you could use a hammer and chisel to break through, and then measure just how thick it really is. • You don’t want to walk on ice less than 4 inches thick. • You don’t want to drive an ATV on ice less than 6 inches thick. • You don’t want to drive a car on ice less than 12 inches thick. Measure first, before you venture out on the ice, or simply stick to the shore. If you don’t know how thick the ice is that’s supporting you, there’s a good chance you’ll put too much weight on it and it’ll break through. When you’re just getting started I’d recommend drilling a few holes, about ever 20 or 30 feet as you venture out. This way you’ll get an understanding of what’s happening underneath, as most lakes you’ll find the ice does get thinner as you get further and further out.

cont. some key pieces of gear to have with you if you’re venturing out onto the ice. A dry change of clothes and a means to start a fire is a good start, but you need to remember the first priority is getting out of the water. I’ve got a light life vest I wear when I’m on the water, it’s small and barely noticeable, but I can pull to inflate it and it’ll ensure my head stays above water and my clothes don’t drag me under if I happen to break through. On all of our ATV’s we’ve got small throwable life preservers with a length of rope attached, so we can toss it to anyone unfortunate enough to fall through. And personally, I’ve also got a whistle I always wear around my neck, and I have a small pick I always wear looped around each wrist when I’m on the ice, so I can get a little more traction if I ever need to pull myself out.

Yes, it’s quite a lot of gear, but it also gives me comfort. Knowing I can quickly get myself out of the water, and that my group is equipped to help, and there’ll be a fire ready and a dry change of clothes to help fight off any signs of hypothermia before they even start. It’s very reassuring. SPREAD YOUR GROUP OUT ON THE ICE This one is just common sense, but people tend to forget it when they’re travelling in a group. You need to spread out if you’re walking, driving, or doing anything on the ice. The more weight that’s pushing down on one particular area, the more potential damage it can do. Plus, if it breaks through, your chances of survival are much better if only one person gets wet, and everyone else can help pull them out, as opposed to the entire group falling in the water.

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That’s a recipe for disaster if I ever heard one. My rough rule of thumb is to keep people about 20 feet apart, and I’d aim for at least double this if you’re driving. And don’t forget where you park. You want to keep the cars spaced out so they don’t start dragging the ice down with all that weight. In a SHTF event, you never know what situation you’re going to face, and knowing how to stay safe when you’re walking on ice is a good skill to know. To do it right, requires a little forward thinking and a lot of care. But it’s far better to be cautious, than to take a risk and wind up neck deep in icy-cold water.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR A FASTER EVACUATION With the bushfires raging across Australia it’s got me thinking about the importance of evacuation. Many of the lives lost have been people, trapped in their homes, in their cars, as they fled the danger, but they’ve gotten stuck along the way. They didn’t get out soon enough, and the flames and the fire overtook them, with heartbreaking consequences. It’s a sad story, and one that bears thinking about. Because in a crisis, a handful of minutes can make all the difference. You may escape the perimeter of a town before the army seals it off. You may make it over a bridge to safety before floodwater washes it away. You may get out of your home before the rioters reach you, and you’re able to make it to safety. Central to all of this is speed, and in today’s post I’d like to share some practical tips to help you evacuate faster. So, you’re not running around trying to collect “everything” until you’ve run out of time and it’s too late, you’re ready and on the road in minutes. Yep, minutes. Here’s how we do it.

P R E - PA C K E V E R Y T H I N G YOU’LL NEED

But I’ve tried to make this as simple as possible.

On the one hand, you never know when a SHTF-like event can happen, so you should always be ready.

In our hallway cupboard we’ve got our hiking boots and a set of clothes laid out for everyone (so we’re not rummaging looking for things if we’re evacuating in the middle of the night).

But if you’ve got advance warning, like tornado season or the news giving you a heads up of a localized disaster heading your way, pre-pack everything you’ll need. We’ve got a tub-storage system in our garage that’s essentially our SUV-bug-out kit. All I need to do is grab the four main tubs (two of food, one’s camping gear and the last is all the other suppliers), and that’s it. Then there’s the water tank, and some extra fuel and we’re done. By pre-packing, we’re able to be out of bed and in a fully packed car, in under 10 minutes. That’s pretty damn good. And it also ensures we don’t “forget” anything as I’m sure we would if we were frantically trying to rush and grab everything we need as we run out the door. KNOW WHAT ELSE YOU NEED TO GRAB Now, it’s not possible to pre-pack everything, and there’s a few extra items we will need to grab.

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So no matter when we wake, we just need to spring out of bed get dressed and run out the door. And we’re gone.

“you’re ready and on the road in minutes…”

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - FEBRUARY 2020 cont. Then is all the personal stuff. We’ve got a go-bag in our safe with cash, passports and all our important ID (it’s stored like this so we can grab it and run), and then we each get our own bug out bag, that hangs in that same cupboard by the back door. And of course, I’ll empty my gun safe and bring all of my weapons and ammunition with me too. Because the biggest danger when we’re out on the road like this is going to be all the other desperate people. KEEP YOUR CAR READY TO GO It drives my wife slightly crazy, but I never, and I mean ever, let the gas on the car drop below half. When it does, I swing by the station and get her filled up again. It’s not just for peace of mind, but by doing this I know, that no matter what has happened that day, or that week, we’ve got at least enough fuel in the tank to get us a hundred or so miles away. Same goes for servicing, you need to keep your car in good working order.

So, do all of your regular oil changes, get it checked when it needs to be done, serviced every year, and keep an eye on things that may wear out like the tires. Your car will be your lifeline if you need to evacuate and it needs to be ready to go at a moment’s notice.

Our backup bug out location is my inlaws place, it’s a few hundred miles further, and that brings challenges of its own. Like, having enough fuel in the car to get there, without relying on a gas station being open in the middle of the night.

HAVE A DESTINATION IN MIND

What we’ve done is setup caches at a halfway point, with enough hidden fuel to refill our main car twice over. The extra tanks can be brought along (they’re just jerry cans), but it gives me peace of mind. I know exactly where I’m going, which means I can drive faster.

So, with the car loaded and everyone in, it’s time to hit the road. But you need a destination. You can’t simply drive around aimlessly, especially if it’s the middle of the night. You need a plan, and some idea of how to get there. This is where thinking ahead is a great idea, and for us, we’re heading straight for our bug out cabin. It’s a different one to the shack we built on our property (as we’re evacuating the area) and I’ve got no less than three different routes we can follow to get there, and I’ve test driven them all. I know exactly where I’m going, and any workarounds we may need to face should the situation change. HAVE A BACKUP PLAN And if all goes to hell and we need another destination entirely, we’ve planned this out too.

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Faster than I would if I had no clue. Speeding up your evacuation when the SHTF is all about being prepared and planning in advance. The more you can think of now, the less stress you’ll face when it all goes down because all you’ll need to do is implement the plan. You’re not trying to solve anything mid-crisis, you’re simply going step-by-step and sticking to the plan. And in a crisis, when time matters the most, you’ll be well out of dodge before your neighbors have even finished loading their car.