Fitting Fundamentals: For Sewers

FITTING FUNDAMENTALS for Sewers

Created exclusively for Craftsy by: Linda Reynolds, Maris Olsen, Beth Galvin & Pauline Alice

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

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4 Key Fitting Opportunities Hemming 101 Mastering the Moulage Technique Plus-Size Fitting Tips Petite Fitting Tips

4 Key Fitting Opportunities

Before the First Pattern Piece Is Cut By Linda Reynolds

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When it comes to garment construction, getting the fit just right is by far the most challenging part to sewing clothing. Fitting patterns, by and large, is a process that begins before the first pattern piece is cut and continues throughout the entire assembly and construction process. It is not a singular step but rather a series of adjustments that take place at various stages throughout the process of sewing any garment. Learning to properly fit and adjust patterns takes a great deal of time and practice to master, but once done, is a skill that will pay huge dividends in beautifully made clothing that look good and will last a lifetime. The steps you take well before the first pattern piece is cut are among the most critical to getting the right fit. Below we cover four key fitting opportunities that every garment sewer must perform to ensure the right size is cut and the most important pattern adjustments are made before layout and cutting begins.

1. Select the Right Pattern Size

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Its important to remember that pattern sizes are not the same as the sizes represented in brick-and-mortar stores. Pattern sizes are typically anywhere from 1-3 sizes larger. Yes, larger. Get over it! It is what it is and size is but a number. Cutting out patterns that are too small typically can’t be fixed, so be sure to pick the right pattern size from the start — it’s imperative. Plus, you’ll feel like a million bucks in a garment you sew yourself that fits like a dream. Pattern sizes are based on three basic body measurements: the fullest part of the bustline, the natural waistline and the fullest part of the hips and buttocks. These are all circumference measurements that are done with a good measuring tape. The measurements should be perfectly horizontal to the floor. Make sure the tape fits snuggly, not tightly, around the body, and, by all means, be honest with yourself.

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2. Use the FGM to fine-tune pattern size selection or to help in-between size decisions. The finished garment measurement (FGM) is the circumference measurement of the garment once completed at the same three basic body points. They are the sum of the body measurement plus both wearable ease and design ease. The FGM is a great tool to use to help zero into the right pattern size especially in those cases when your body measurements are in between two sizes. By placing a measuring tape around each body point using the FGMs for both the smaller size, and then the larger size, you can get a feel of how the finished garment will fit around your body. Then pick the size where the fit feels right for you.

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HOW TO USE FMG: AN EXAMPLE SKIRT To illustrate how this works, let’s pretend your hip measurement is 37”. That falls in between a size 12 and 14 for the example pattern. To determine which of the two sizes would work best, begin by finding the FGM for the smaller of the two sizes. In this case, that’s 39 ½", or 3 ½" of ease added to the body measurement.

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Now, wrap a measuring tape around your hips to that FGM (39 ½" for size 12). See how that measurement feels and looks. Is it too snug, too big or just right? Now, do the same with the larger FGM (41 ½" for the size 14). Whichever feels or looks best is the pattern size you would select. FGMs are also very helpful in determining how much to add, or subtract, when adjusting patterns to your measurements. Let’s use this same skirt example to illustrate this point. The amount of ease factored into the design of this pattern is 3 ½" at the hipline. So it should equal a FGM of 40 ½" for a body measurement of 37" plus the ease. This means 1” needs to be added to the circumference at the hipline for the size 12 skirt. Based on the design and number of seams in the skirt, simply divide or distribute that 1" among each seam to achieve the adjusted FGM.

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By understanding how to use the finished garment measurements, you can limit the amount of adjustments you have to make later and create a better fitting garment.

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3. Measure With Tissue Pattern Fitting By pinning the base (tissue) pattern pieces together and placing them on the body critical fitting issues can be identified. This is an important step to sewing the right fit. For the best fit, the tissue fitting should be done over the undergarments you intend to wear with the garment you are making. Since tissue fitting is done on only half the body, make sure to secure (or pin) the front and back pattern pieces to your center front and back.

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KEY FITTING ISSUES TO CHECK WHEN TISSUE FITTING INCLUDE: • Make sure the shoulder and side seams are properly positioned. • The bust darts are sufficient and properly directed to your bust apex. • The bodice, sleeve and bottom patterns are long enough as this can’t be adjusted once the patterns are cut. • Check the armhole and neckline for gaps as these need to be addressed before patterns are cut. • Make sure crotch seams sufficiently fit over the buttock and follow the curves of your body appropriately. Now is the time to make all of the adjustments needed for a good fit on pants.

4. Prepare A Muslin To prepare a muslin means to create a prototype of the base garment using inexpensive fabric. This process helps isolate all fitting issues and will provide the most comprehensive fitting adjustments needed for a good fit. Not all projects require making a muslin, but for those with intricate styling details or that require exact fitting, a muslin is best. It is also important to note that even with a muslin, more fine-tuning of the fit will be required throughout the construction process as fashion fabrics will perform differently than muslin fabrics.

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HOW TO FIT A MUSLIN: Step 1: Try the muslin on, right side out. If you have a dress form filled out to your measurements, you’ll probably find it easier to fit your muslin on that. For some patterns (like a dress with a back zip), having a fit helper might make the process easier. If no one’s available to pin you into the garment, it’s in your best interest to add any closures to get the best idea of how the garment actually fits. Be sure to baste them in and you’ll be able to easily rip them out and reuse for your final garment. If you’re satisfied with the garment fit, congratulations! You can skip to Step 3. More than likely, though, you’ll need to make some adjustments.

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Step 2: Try the muslin on, wrong side out. This is when you’ll pin and mark any adjustments for the final garment (or the next muslin, if you’re having major fit issues). Perhaps the side seams need to be taken in, you need to lengthen the bodice so that the waist is in the correct spot, or the bust darts need to be let out or taken in. Craftsy has many online classes that address specific fit issues.

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Step 3: Once you’re satisfied with the fit, take the muslin off and deconstruct it. At this point, you can either transfer any changes directly to your pattern (if they are small changes) or make new pattern pieces based on the muslin (if the changes are more complex).

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Hemming 101 By Linda Reynolds

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Whether finishing a homemade garment or altering a store-bought one, knowing the proper way to hem is an important life skill for anyone to have. It will save you tons of money on alterations and, the good news; it’s pretty easy to do. The hardest part will be figuring out where you want the hem to be in the first place.

Where Should the New Hemline Be? Let’s begin by first figuring out where that hem should be. If you are trying to figure that out on yourself you can simply replicate the hem length of a similar garment you have in your closet. Measure the inseam of a pair of pants or the waist to hem measurement on a skirt and then use those measurements as your guide for the new garment. Then there is the trial and error approach. Try on the garment and pin up the hem to where you think you want it be. I know, that’s not easy to do on yourself, but with one or two attempts you should be able to settle on a hemline you like. The best method is to try on the garment and have someone else turn up the hem. Train your child, friend, or significant other to help you and you are set for life when it comes to hemming.

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Ready the Garment for Hemming Once the location of the new hem is determined, pin the excess fabric up to the underside around the entire circumference of the garment. Try on the garment once again. Look to make sure the hemline is where you want it to be, and make sure the pinned up hem is even all around. The hem should be equal distance from the floor at all points. The only exception here is women’s dress pants. Some women prefer the back side to be a bit longer to accommodate wearing high heels. If that is the case, make the desired adjustment.

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Trim and Ready the Hem With the pins still in place, iron the hemline so when the pins are removed the ironed crease is visible. If your fabric doesn’t hold a crease, hand baste the hem in place about ½” from the folded hemline edge. Remove all pins.

A hem can be any width you want it to be, but for guidance, pant hems should be around 1 ¼” – 1 ½” and dress or skirt hems around 1 ½” – 2”. Whichever hem width you choose, trim away any excess fabric. Do this by measuring and then marking the hem width with a fabric pen or chalk. Use that mark as your guide to cut away the excess.

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Finish the Raw Edges All garments should look as clean and finished on the underside as it does on the public or right side, so some careful finishing of the hem’s raw edge is necessary. There are essentially three ways to finish a plain hem. The type of garment fabric will determine the appropriate approach. The objective is to secure a hem that is invisible from the public side of the garment. Here are your options: 1. For standard types of fabric, like cotton, serging the edge is the easiest approach and will produce a clean finish. The serged stitching will prevent the raw edges from fraying and provides a medium for the final hand stitching. 2. For lightweight to medium-weight fabrics, a turned edge looks clean and finished. Of utmost importance, the added bulk of the double layer of fabric should not bleed through to the public side of the garment when pressed. To be sure that is the case, test the turned edge on a piece of scrap fabric first. To do a turned edge, simply fold under the top raw edge of the hem by 1/4” and press it in place. Then stitch the folded edge down 1/16” to 1/8” from the fold.

3. For heavier fabrics or ones that either fray excessively or will be too bulky to handle a tuned edge, it is best to finish the edge with some hem tape. This keeps the fraying in check, conceals an otherwise unattractive edge and most importantly, prevents a bulky hem edge from bleeding through to the public side of the garment. Hems edged with hem tape produce the most professionally looking hems, especially for garments that are unlined.

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Slip Stitch for Hemming Hand stitching the hem in place is by far the best approach to a well executed hem. If done properly, it is hardly visible and produces a secure hem. The hand stitch I use almost exclusively for hemming is the slip stitch. I like it best because when done properly only a small pick stitch is visible on underside of the garment and nearly invisible on the public side.

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HERE IS HOW TO SLIP STITCH A HEM: Step 1: Position the garment so the hem is turned up (north) and facing you. You are going to sew from right to left. Thread a needle with roughly a 20” length of thread. To strengthen and prevent it from knotting up, run it through some beeswax and then iron it. Now knot one end of a single thread.

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Step 2: Insert the needle into the hem’s top edge starting from the underside up through the top of the hem edge (this becomes 6 o’clock). Notice the needle placement is roughly 1/8" or less from the hem edge.

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Step 3: Now take a tiny (no more than a thread) stitch directly above (at 12 o’clock) into the garment base. The resulting stitch should be quite small and perfectly vertical.

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Step 4: Angle the needle to enter the hem edge approximately 3/8" to 1/2" from the first stitch. (The space between each stitch will depend on the fabric). Bring the needle up at the 6 o’clock position and repeat the process described in Steps 2 and 3.

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Step 5: Continue this process throughout the hem making sure only a thread or two is captured of the garment fabric. Also make sure the spacing between each stitch is consistent and even. On the right side of the garment, only small, evenly spaced pick stitches should be visible. If applying on lofty or dense fabrics, the stitches will most likely not be visible at all.

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Mastering the Moulage Technique By Maris Olsen

The moulage, or “mold” fitting system was developed and used in couture houses to reduce client fitting times. Home sewers can also learn to create a moulage, which in turn can be used to draft personal slopers for a blouse, dress, jacket or an overcoat. The main difference between a moulage and a sloper is that the moulage has zero wearing ease added — it is a reflection of an individual’s actual body measurements. Slopers include minimal wearing ease and are used as the basis for creating new patterns with additional unique design lines. Learn the steps to the moulage technique and be on your way to making beautiful garments that fit like a glove

Photo via Craftsy member Artesia Rose www.craftsy.com

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Tools and Supplies You’ll Need: • • • • • •

Large sheets of paper (30" wide is ideal) Graphite pencils + colored pencils Measuring tape Straight edge ruler Square Tape

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Several yards of elastic (1/2" or so wide) Chain necklace Tracing paper Tracing wheel (dual tracing wheel preferable) Muslin fabric 30" separating zipper

Suzy Furrer demonstrating a moulage measurement process in her her class Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper

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Give the Moulage Technique a Try! Step 1: Measurements It is really necessary to have a “fitting” buddy to help you with this step; preferably someone you are comfortable with standing around “lightly dressed.”

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Measurements should be taking in close-fitting but not constricting clothing. Lightweight yoga pants or tights can work for the lower body, a snug T-shirt for the upper body — also, a well-fitting bra is a must.

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One piece of elastic is tied around the waist, and a second piece is tied around the fullest area of the hips. Place the necklace so that the chain sits at the base of the front neck, about 3/4" below the hollow. The person taking the measurements should pull the tape snugly around the body, keeping the forefinger under the tape and the thumb on top to hold the ends together. This helps increase accuracy and allows just a smidgen of ease in the final muslin. The measurements should be recorded on a moulage measurement chart to the nearest half or full inch (or half or full centimeter)

Custom moulage drafted and constructed by Craftsy member LeahBoyan

Step 2: Calculations Once all the moulage measurements have been taken, it is time for a little math. Nothing too complicated is needed, just simple algebra. The calculations are recorded on a worksheet and this worksheet is then used as the basis for drafting the actual moulage.

Step 3: Draft the Moulage You will draft a moulage back and a moulage front using your body measurements and the calculation results from the moulage worksheet. To begin, you will use the straight edge, square and a pencil to draw reference lines on the large pieces of paper, and then start adding your personal information to create the paper pattern for your moulage.

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Personal sloper drafted from a moulage by Craftsy member ConnieCreates 

Drafting a bodice sloper

Step 4: Construct a Muslin Once your moulage draft is finished, you will then use this paper pattern to trace cutting and stitching lines for your moulage muslin. Like with any garment, you will need to staystitch curves, follow the correct construction order and insert a zipper in the back, allowing the moulage to be easily put on and taken off. Step 5: Fit the Muslin Try on the completed moulage, and check for the correct fit. Remember that this garment should have basically zero ease, no gaps and no wrinkles across your body. It should “fit like a glove.” Make any necessary adjustments to the muslin garment,and then transfer those same adjustments to the paper pattern. Step 6: Draft a Bodice Sloper Now that you have all the precise measurements for your moulage, you will create a sloper with minimal wearing ease added. It is this sloper that you will now use as your foundation piece to create unlimited designs with a personalized fit.

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Plus-Size Fitting Tips

It’s All the About Vertical Dimension By Beth Galvin

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When fitting a sewing pattern we are accustomed to checking the standard measurements, such as bust, waist and hip. What do these have in common? They are all measurements of circumference. But there is another dimension that is critical to getting a good fit, and that is the vertical dimension. These vertical measurements are not marked on the pattern but you can measure and adjust your patterns in both dimensions to get a good fit and be more comfortable in the clothes you make.

How to Use Vertical Adjustment for a Pristine Plus-Sized Fit The two dress forms pictured above illustrate the potential need for vertical adjustment on sewing patterns.

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The light pink form on the left shows how bust depth, which is the distance from the top of the shoulder to the bust apex, is considerably longer with a plus-size figure, or full busted figure. The horizontal line marks the bust apex on both dress forms, and that is the point on your pattern where you want the maximum fullness to accommodate the curves there. www.craftsy.com

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Imagine a pattern with bust darts which would finish near that apex, closer for the less full bust and further away for the more full bust. So, based on the measuring tape, even though they may be the same height, the full busted form needs more length in the front to reach the waist.

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Often wrap style dresses or tops don’t include a side dart, so here is a way to adjust the pattern front and create the extra length that is needed. Step 1: Evaluate the Pattern Here is the front bodice pattern piece, which is a mock wrap front with shoulder darts. The bust apex is indicated on the pattern as the small circle with the +. The center front is marked and that should be transferred to your pattern, so that your wrap overlaps properly. There is no side bust dart but that will be added to create some shaping and allow for the longer front measurement from shoulder to waist. Step 2: Make a Muslin The test version of our pattern shows that the pattern circumference is good, it appears to fit going around the body, but the issue with bodice length becomes apparent. The yellow dots represent the bust apex on the pattern and they are about 2 inches higher than the actual apex of the form, which is shown by the upper ribbon. Also the bodice is pulling upward under the bust, so the garment waist will not be in the right place. • Measure the distance between the pattern mark of the apex and the actual apex, this will be the distance that the pattern will be lengthen over the bust. • Now, measure the distance between the bottom of the bodice and the waist. • If that is more than the difference you will be adding at the bust, you may want to add a little more at the bottom edge as well, or deepen your seam allowance to permit some adjustment when you sew the top and bottom together.

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Step 3: Split the Pattern Piece Draw a horizontal line across the pattern, through the apex or just under as shown. Be sure that line is perpendicular to the grainline. Add a few vertical lines across this horizontal line, which are used to connect the pattern piece after you split it. Cut the pattern piece in half using this line. Step 4: Lengthen the Pattern Piece Insert paper between the now split pattern pieces, in this case we have added 2 inches across the front bodice which. Connect the vertical lines to keep everything even, including the grainline.

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Step 5: Adjust the Front Cutting Line By adding the 2 inches in the middle of the bodice, the long front edge is now a bit jagged. Smooth that edge by redraw the cutting line, splitting the difference above and below the inserted piece. Step 6: Add a Dart With the added length the front bodice is 2 inches longer than the back bodice piece at the side seam. To take up that difference add a side bust dart. This kind of dart is really helpful to get a good fit on a full bust so don’t be afraid to add one where none exists.

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Note that the dart point should be about 1.5 to 2 inches away from the bust apex. I find a dart that is slanted upward is more pleasing to the eye than one which is completely horizontal. It also helps to pin your paper pattern pieces together and test on the body, you can pinch out the extra and see just where the side dart should go. Make sure the front and back bodice seams are trued up and you are ready to try a second muslin. Step 7: Make a Muslin to Test Your Adjustments Here is the new muslin of this pattern, with the bodice length adjustment and a side seam bust dart added. The bottom of the bodice hits at the waist, and retains the ease and blousing of the pattern design. The new dart is creating fullness where it is needed over the bust and allowing the fabric to drape instead of pulling the waist seam upward. Time to sew your garment!

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With those adjustments the bodice drapes nicely, the soft blousing is maintained and the dress is going to be much more comfortable to wear than it would have been without the front length adjustment. And no tugging to try to get that waist seam to stay in place.

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Sewing Tips for Petites

Finding the Perfect Patterns & Styles By Pauline Alice

Are you familiar with any of these facts? The hemline of your garments is always 2" too long; the pattern waistline meets your hip bones; the sleeves and shoulders of your muslin look like they belong to a football player… If yes, then you might be a petite lady! If you are under 5' 4", you are considered a size petite by the fashion industry, as well as the pattern companies industry. And believe me, it’s way easier for us, seamstresses, to dress our petite bodies than the mere mortals who need to rely on stores.

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Let’s review some of the basic tips you should remember if you’re petite when you look for a sewing pattern and a new project.

Tip #1: Choose the Right Neckline

If you’re petite, then V-necks are your best friends! It will elongate your neck in a very elegant way (U-necks are great as well).

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Tip #2: Find Figure-Flattering Ooptions It’s best to choose patterns that won’t overwhelm you, so avoid patterns that have lots of frills or layers. Instead, look for patterns with simple and interesting design lines, more on the fitted side than on the loose one. A good compromise would be a fitted bodice dress with a slightly gathered or pleated skirt.

Tip #3: Discover Lovely Length You want to look for skirts and dresses that hit just above the knee to create the illusion of longer legs. But, again, it doesn’t mean you can’t wear a maxi skirt. In that case, just try to look for a pattern that is not too full and find a fabric that’s either a solid or has a small-print pattern. For your trousers, the best tip would be to wear heels. However, I’ve also found cropped trousers and high-waisted pants both look great.

Photo via Craftsy member RedPointTailor www.craftsy.com

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Photo via Craftsy member GoodbyValentino

Photo via Craftsy member Fooniks

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Tip #4: Select the Right Colors and Prints As for fabric, monochromatic prints and small patterns look best on petite frames. Dressing in one color (or similar shades) creates a unity, while a contrasting top and bottom cuts the body in two. Stripes are always a debate: vertical or horizontal? It depends of the proportions, but they almost always look better if they are thin, and while horizontal seems to work best on tops, vertical typically works better on dresses. Or, you can explore something new and trendy while maintaing a figure-flattering silhouette — why not try a combination or chevron?

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Tip #5: Accentuate the Waist Try to follow a 1/3 – 2/3 rule: Accentuate your natural waistline, which is situated approximately at 1/3 of your body, by wearing your shirts tucked in, high-waisted trousers and skirts, tops with peplum or thin belts, short and fitted jackets…whatever suits your personal style. Doing so will create nicer proportions and make your legs appear longer.

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Meet the Experts

Linda Reynolds

Maris Olsen

Linda Reynolds learned to sew as a young girl and has been sewing ever since. Trained as a professional seamstress, she loves sharing her passion for the craft as a sewing instructor teaching garment sewing to teens and adults. Her blog Simply Sewing Studio offers helpful tips and easy solutions to everyday sewing dilemmas.

Maris Olsen is a seriously awesome sewing geek, and prefers to spend the majority of each day in her sewing studio. Since retiring from a hi-tech career, her new life-mission is to imbue students young and old with the love of textiles, stitching and the pure joy of creation. She blogs about her sewing and teaching adventures at Sew Maris.

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Beth Galvin Beth started sewing in 3rd grade and discovered her lifelong fascination with patterns and fabric. She sews and blogs in beautiful Northern California, where she makes far too many coats and jackets for the sunny climate. On her blog SunnyGal Studio Sewing she shares her projects with tips on construction and fitting.

Pauline Alice Pauline is a French independent sewing pattern designer who started her own line, Pauline Alice Sewing Patterns, in 2013. Her designs offer a feminine look and a touch of retro aesthetic for the modern and everyday lady. She also shares her sewing journey, tutorials and inspiration on her blog.

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