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THE 99% MIXING AND MASTERING EBOOK ProdbyJack & MG Written by MG
INTRODUCTION Mixing can be so fun, yeah right, right? Mixing and fun don't belong in the same sentence for some. So let this book guide you to get that sorted. Im explaining it in my own words as a hip hop producer/engineer and beatmaker to other hip hop producers and engineers. This guide will break down the important sides of the mix and how you can quickly adopt a mixing workflow that will make you a better mixer and a quicker mixer working smarter to keep making beats rather than mixing them. There isn't a one size fits all for all mixing techniques so it's time to break some down so you can really begin to learn exactly what it is you're doing. Mixing isn't a race. Take your time and give your ears plenty of rest. Everything will fall in place after implementing some good practices. This Ebook is designed to pave that for you and place you on the road which seemed foggier before. 1
EQ EQ is one of the most integral components of a good mix . Many sounds and sound sources we use in production have unnecessary frequencies within them which create overlaps, phase issues and a host of other problems that if not correct, will ultimately cause issues further in the mix when applying other effects and processing. The foundation of most good mixing is EQ. I would always advise someone to start with a reductive approach to their EQ , just cutting out frequencies that are if no relevance or importance to a sound . For example, a piano will have present frequencies over wide range a cutting out overly apparent bass and high end with simple low cut and hi cuts will balance out the mix to start with. I would stress that each of the mixer channels start with an Eq, even if it only has a very simple reduction occurring , so long as we priorities cleaning up the mix first , the rest of the process will feel a lot easier. Mixing with Eq is particular to each sound and there isn’t really a recipe so to speak that works perfectly. It isn’t a one size fits all process but there are a few general pointers that will really help to improve the tidiness if a mix. Reductive EQ In any Eq that has the ability to isolate the frequencies we affect, we can carve out unwanted mud or piercing top end. Take pro q2 for example - by pressing the headphone icon on a frequency band it allows us to listen to the target frequency we’re cutting. It usually is a low boomy sound in the bottom or a hissy incoherent noise in the top end. I would suggest you don’t get too used to boost and sweep methods because they can really annoy the ear , highlight a specific frequency that is annoying by itself at a high volume but is sometimes an actual characteristic of an instrument. Reductive Eq should be simple
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Most of the time if the sounds we are using are initially produced well. You shouldn’t need to dip 500hZ on the snare drastically or take out too much high end with tight bell shaped Eq unless the noise is obviously harsh and annoying . listening to an isolated channel without the rest of the mix to actually provide a reference point is equally detrimental at times . Spending 30 mins on a snare by itself then unsoloing it to find it’s gone missing and lacks punch etc isn't exactly a great thing for your morale! Mid/Side EQ Eq on the face of it, as we mostly know it, loads up and you get a few things to play around with, moving the bands about, the shape of them etc. but one powerful tool often overlooked is splitting your eq channel between mid and side. Unlike the conventional eq curves we mainly use, mid and side EQ allows us to effectively look at our speaker and divide frequencies between the areas we prefer. For example, removing the side of a bass or low element equates to you narrowing its stereo field and bypasses you from including bass end in stereo end of your mix.in the high end, it is useful to roll of some frequencies at times front the mid and side channels just you you get more high end into the tweeter side of your speaker, which is responsible for producing most of the high end. Here is an example to set your mind at ease when reading this for the first time Look at the mode section of the stock ableton 10 eq, M/S is what you need to find on your eq
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Here is a screenshot of me taking out some low and his from a chord leads of the mid channel
And one of me taking out the bass from the side and boosting a touch of high end.
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Sometimes if you can't find a way to make that top end sparkle and just keep adding more and more eq curves and volume to a top end sound without the desired effect, try this! This will really help you cut back on wasted frequency spectrum if you’re finding it hard to position things in the mix in general. Mid and side is so good in mastering because it can really help you to select exactly what portion of the speakers you're affecting. In the master section , i'll go through my mastering chain i use and how you can adopt those methods for yourself Great third party eqs to add to your arsenal, amazing for reductive eq and generally too Fabfilter PRO Q2 - literally the only one i use for reductive stuff Fabfilter PRO Q3 -upgrade of 2 that i haven't found too much love for, 2 just seems like the one for me but there is a handy brick wall eq for really hard cuts if a sound is really bothering you Your Stock DAW eq - you can get by with this. You actually don't need anything else most of the time. This thing will low cut and hi cut like everything else. Try not to use this to add anything though , like boosting with one of these often makes the sound a little less satisfying. Sonible Smart EQ2 - if you're starting out this one here can help to teach you different eq curves. Its algorithm based and works via an A.I to get the most out of a sound Waves REQ 2-6 - T his series of eqs are so simple and classically designed and work great on vocals. They are a bit trickier because they don't display the pre and post analyzer but sound great. So anyone intermediate/experienced with access to this start using asap
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Waves F6 - F6 is particularly unique because it has an inbuilt compressor into it. Which makes it powerful for squeezing out the sections of the sound you need to have more prominence. I use this on the kick top end a lot to give a greater impact anywhere in between 2-5kHz Additive EQ Signal chain wise itd go after compression and tidying up the sound but before reverb or any effects amazing eqs for this are: Waves PuigTec EQP1A and MEQ5 Any Waves API unit SSL G Channel, SSL EQ, SSL Channel Additive eq is about the character. Most of these are modelled on vintage equipment to bring back that gritty saturation or presence of an original hardware unit. I use additive eq separate to reductive eq because i mostly Compress directly after reductive eq, meaning when I add something to it wth the listed analog units, it can help accentuate the clean and compressed signal, rather than the muddy un treated signal. what I'll do is I'll load up one of my favourite EQs which I've listed to basically amplify the sound further or bring out a certain characteristic of it that I like. I use the waves API units most of the time for mostly each element in the mix because it just has a really nice sound. The Pultec EQs which are the PuigTec EQs in Waves are really powerful because they have what's called the ability to make a resonant band. A resonant band is where you increase the volume of a frequency then decrease it simultaneously bringing about a presence and width to an element, which can be really useful for the bass. Using the PuigTec EQP1A on an 808 boosting 60hz by one on the boost section and 6
attenuating 1 in the attenuation section it will actually create this resonant layer in between the boost and cut and achieves this thick sounds that a lot of us try to achieve. Creating a big bass with just a couple of steps Equally proficient on hi end information. You can actually use it to affect spectrums with really wide band EQ bringing out a total character of the high end information on a lead or snare without relying on an analyser like you see on a stock EQ with the graph showing you all the frequencies. You can really train your ears to ‘hear’ using this. In this way your ears become more trained to calculating what you are hearing and what you need to add and take from am mix instead of relying on your eyes seeing the eq graph/analyser change. It adds a level of excitement to your eqing and can bring about some really great results going in blind like that. Separating the additive EQ section like this really helps your workflow because you can go back to the compressor and reductive eq separately without having to affect something in the chain by changing it . What I Mean is, when you boost after compression, you bring in new elements into the sound with your new clean signal. You won't lose all these boost but would have if you included all your EQing in one plug in. 7
Compression With modern day kits we use in our production etc, a lot of the sounds are either heavily compressed already or have limiting applied to them to finalise the sound. For us that basically means that there isn't too much of a dynamic presence in the sound to start with. Meaning that if we continue to add more compression, we lose the character and body of the sound and the natural texture , and we end up having a block of sound that overall isnt too good sounding. Basic Compression Principles Now compression can be useful and is a very powerful tool that can help elements in a mix stand out, I mainly use it on leads and vocals that have a lower volume and need some oomph. Compressors basically bridge the gap between the loudest point of a sound and the quietest. Without any auto gain or make up gain on a compressor, the sound becomes a lot lot quieter. Take for example a soft piano sound that intensifies. Let's say the quiet bit of the piano is -12dB and the loudest point is -3db, what compression will do is bring down the -3dB level closer to the -12dB level based on what we out into the compressor. The ratio is really important in maintaining a dynamic sound. Briefly, a 1:2 dB ratio means for every 1dB you put into the compressor, you take of -2dB. So if we have a kick with a compression ratio of 1:2 then we actually lose 2 decibels per 1 we put into the compressor. This would suck if we couldn't amplify the signal again. But here is the question. If the kick is sounding good, why compress it further. It'll just reduce the energy it had. The threshold is the next important area of the compressor which determines when the compressor acts. For example your compression threshold is 0 and your sound doesn't get louder than -5db, you aren't gonna reduce practically anything. Some compressors, especially vintage model ones have some character boost when you just put them on the sound 8
without touching anything but a bog standard DAW compressor will do mainly nothing to the sound until you take down the threshold so the compressor can actually have a sound to act on, reducing the threshold here therefore will get the compressor to start acting. Now let's say your -5db sound is playing, you put your compression threshold down to -9db, it'll be active and reducing enough gain to even out the sound. Let's pick up the example of our piano again, let's say we take our compressor and put it on the piano and take the threshold down so it takes of -6db of gain reduction, you'll see this occur in the meter section of the compressor. Now the loudest and softest point will have a smaller gap between their dynamic range. Retaining this in a modern mix is really important but evening out the sound is equally beneficial, you'll now never lose the piano in the overall beat. Here is an example using fabfilter pro c-2. I'll show you a lead here which has a quiet and loud point and how we can even it out so it overall has a lower dynamic range but better presence.
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Here is the sound. As you can see, the start is quiet and it gets louder, considerably, about 12db. Now let's grab a compressor and i'll show you how it acts.
You can see roughly the same shape in the compressor as you can in the waveform , basically no reduction is happening, nothing much going on. But with the metre over the threshold dial, you can see the peak of the sound and how much threshold to roughly apply here it is at the quietest point.
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So if we set our threshold to around 10 o'clock , we can even out this sound quite nicely
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You can see from the diagram that the new waveform is a lot closer together, and in the background , in dark grey you can see the original , so this signal is now compressed and quite close together, losing the difference between the loudest an qualitest is spot. Now the attack time here is quite quick. The attack time in a compressor basically tells it how fast to act, so you more or less instantly duck the sound as soon as the compressor hears it. If you set this higher, the compressor will take longer to act, for leads and synths this can be quite nice because it'll allow the instrument to breath and you won't choke out all the dynamics, plus when gain is applied and you're not just reducing it with compression, you'll see why it's important, it'll appear more natural and steady rather than abruptly killing the quality of the sound
Here i moved the attack longer. The release longer and added lookahead. OMG what are all of these aadhgpojlketlkjbd!
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Attack and release settings are very subjective and are really a preference of the engineer. It depends how harsh you want the compression to be. Here are the basics of all the parametres. Threshold we've been through, ratio we have covered. Attack how long it takes for the compressor to start compression, quick attack settings are more useful for drums to lock in the punch, sowere ones retain the dynamic information so are great for leads and synths etc. Release When the compressor turns off, how long it takes for it to stop compressing. If it's a pluck sound you'll want it to be shorter, just so it isn't holding any empty rumbly sounds or hissssss .For pads and pianos and evolving sounds, you might want to slightly longer, to enhance a portion of the tail of the sound to bring it out more if it has a unique character Lookahead will let you compressor check what it's compressing before the signal hit, it'll check what and when to compress, way more taxing on the cpu but it'll help to really retain character of drums etc. How do i know what settings to use. Use your eyes and ears really. If the sound start sounding stupid or dull and you've done a crazy compression on it, you can see why, take the threshold and move it close to 0 so it's not so active; is your ratio on 1:infinity? try aim for 2 or 3 to 1 or in between there for most sounds, you want to retain as smooth a sound as the original. Are there any other compressions about?
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Well multi band compression is a similar beast to compression but it's mostly more useful for overall sound enhancement, like the complete mix.
This is pro MB over a complete song. What it aims to do is be a level of mastering before mastering. Like a pre master. This specific compressor looks at each individual segments and helps to compress and meld areas together. If you look at each crossover section it carries a certain piece of the frequency spectrum, the pink part corresponding to the bass end, the green mostly to the kick and low mid area and so forth. Multi-band is a great finalisation technique but equally but needs to be fairly soft or you destroy the mix. Side chain is important in compression because it can really help you kick and 808 to sit together better. Now it isn't the only method of side chain, like you can side chain anything to anything but it's mostly common on kick and 808, it's becoming less and less used because you 14
can achieve the same effect with an eq etc but if you want to, it's still a great way of making room for the kick. The compressor basically takes the kick and says to the 808, everyone this thing hits, you lose this amount of dB. Because the kick and 808 have so many similar frequencies, they mostly clash otherwise. It is a great beginners tactic on improving the relationship between the two, hell even a great technique to use in advanced ways as a seasoned engineer. I still use it , softly, but i do. I load my kick and 808, eq them etc, level them up etc and then send the kick in to the sidechain section of the compressor. I use a ratio of around 1:1.5 - 2 and a threshold of around -7 to -12 depending on how much kick i want, attack on 0.2 and auto release. Not much more than that is really necessary, depends how heavy you want the side chain to be. Compressors i love are Fabfilter Pro-C2 And that's it... I use the stock one and C2. it has everything I need from a cleaning up the mix standpoint. Additive compression Now this might be a bit weird but some compressors have a lovely character and are hard to overlook. I rarely use these on the beat side of things but sometimes slap them on a lead or 2 to make them get that oomph, but on vocals they are amazing. JST GR is the best thing since sliced bread. It's a crazy aggressive gain reducer, super heavy compressor that hits like no other. It can take the sound and amplify it like mad, leaving the sound super 15
compressed but very even. Using it lightly is sick because it means you can really get that gritty slap out of it. But again, I use this on vocals mostly so i'll cover out there but experiment with it equally rewarding. 660/670 fairchild The mono and stereo version of an old analog unit i use is the waves Fairchild 660/670 to give the sound more character. It's a great compressor for vocals again but if you're looking to finalise one of your sounds this one is sick. Any SSL comp, channel rack etc These things are modelled off of the big desk so speak for themselves. You aren't losing out too much if you can't get your hands on the plug ins but they are really intuitive and if you use them, they can really help your mixes. Smart Comp Just like smart eq, it's an a.i. based comp which can help set you up as the best compression for your individual elements. It Can help teach you all you need about certain instrument even to carry over to other compressors when you learn enough to do it manually. CLA 2a, 3a, 76 These are waves plugins but equivalents exist . they don't do too much more than your regular compressor and you can achieve a pro mix without them but these are generally better sounding and analog modelled which pack a punch for your drums and are really effective for gain reduction . Learn the difference between the type of compression you're doing. It's useful to know about gain reduction and compression. Take a compressor with a VU meter, if the needle slams down hard and 16
doesn't really move, that's gain reduction, if the needle is moving and wavering about, that's compression. Gain Staging and Leveling Levelling and gain staging become way more simple with clear cut positions in the frequency spectrum for each sound. It opens the ability to have a well placed and balanced mix , even if done quite quickly. Here are a few pointers and what to look for. I love these two components because they can literally make or break a mix. I went through years of shoddy levelling and gain staging to get to the position I’m in now which is pretty good. The hell of deciding how damn loud my snare should be and where i'd put the kick etc. All in all , in bassey music, we all get high on the driving 808 and knocking kick but often over egg them. Here is literally the most simple levelling tutorial you'll ever get in an ebook that you can come back and refer to however many times you want to and go out and adapt it to your own workflow. Without even touching on gain staging, you can get your mix sounding 50 times better with a little bit of levelling. Here are a few methods to this in production. Our kick is the life of the beat so we level everything off that. Kick: 0dB Snare: -3dB Perc: -7/5db ish 808: -6dB Hats: 11/9dB Instruments and synths, varies but -14 to -9 dB 17
This will get your beat sounding sweet. Slap a limiter on the master and you've got your working mix in order. You and your people can enjoy it sounding crisp and bassey. Now to save time you could literally just take another 6dB off those levels and have your levels literally sorted. So kick at -6dB, sanre -9dB etc etc. That'll give you the levels you need before adding your own touches to make it how you want. The important thing here is that that is a rough guide, if you think your kick is lacking, find a way to give it some extra punch. EQ it, saturate it; all of that good stuff and that might get you to where you need to be, Now it's all well and good mixing at those levels but let's say you want that extra professional touch. Most mix engineers will decide to actually gain stage the music before starting on the levels. So strap in and lets go. Set everything to zero/unity . take off all your mixing etc apart from if maybe you halftimed something for the entire track, leave that on because that's what we’ll be mixing but, generally take everything off, and set the mixer meter back to default. Don't press play because you'll break your eardrums. Take the master level and decrease it significantly like -12/-19 or whatever so that we don't kill our ears. Here is my kick from the example.
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Looking at it it's averagely what we see when we see our kicks wave form. Looks beefy but to get this properly gain staged we need to take out some volume . This is what the kick peaks out without me touching it. Literally what the meter reads when i drop it into ableton
it doesn't really take a genius to figure out why this isn't ideal. We are losing so much headroom it's untrue! It peaks at +4.91 dB. That's over our production level mix and is superrrr hot. Even if you just turn down the fader the original sound is already too loud so… get into the sound source and turn that down until we see that meter at -12dB. That's right , for every instrument , effect perc etc. get it to -12dB without the fader being touched . Keep the fader on unity and turn down the original sampel like so, here i took off 17db. And here's the new meter. 19
-12.1, working with a little more room than minus 12.
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follow the same step for every sound until everything is at -12. This will give us that head room and we can start to get our mix done turn your master to +6, just max it out basically and nothing should clip over the top because its all quiet etc. From here, with -12 as the start position of the kick, we can take the 808 and level it -6dB approx. from the kick. Just use the initial mix guide above to get everything sitting tidy. No sound will be clipping from the get go like our kick was initially, and everything might sound a bit quiet at first but adding that extra 6db to the master should help. Once that's all done your mix is fully levelled and gain staged. Thats it really. This will double the quality of your masters and don't forget to take your master level back down to 0. BUSS and Sends+Returns Mix is done right? everything sounding good? levelled nicely crisp etc. Not necessarily done though! In come buss effects and sends and returns, holy grails of cpu saving and holy grails of mixing in turn too! Why? Simple, they utilise the same plug in for multiple channels and her is how! This will save you bags of time if you try to include this method in your mix. Instead of loading your reverb on every channel under the sun taking up resources, and you practically load the same sound into every channel. Then pop it on a send and the job is done, exactly the same as buss routing. We've all heard of NY compression or parallel compression tech quest and if you haven't then crawl out from under the rock you've been living under because it can be one of the most useful tools you'll get. Instead of loading up a compressor on each channel , load a ridiculously heavy compression on a buss and send bits of signal to it that you want compressed. For example, all your drums could rout over to a compression buss which could glue them all together and have them sit nice and tightly together, this one buss 21
could have some crisp saturation on there and a very short reverb where you could send you claps, snares hats etc to get them more full in a mix . Here are compression setting i use on 2 different buss channels which help beef up my stuff. Generally speaking i send the bits of signal that i feel lack punch into it and they come out monstrous.
A simple h comp like this can get those drums knocking like crazy, and because you're only blending the compressed signal into the orignal, they stack on top of each other and make for a really clean hard hitting piece of percussion. I love this one on the kick because it can get the pio out of it more and bring that knocking sound into it . Really and truly you can adapt all of these busses to be whatever you want them to. For instance, if you have a compressor like this maybe set to 50% wet and then add a saturator afterwards, it could compress then saturate whatever signal you run through it. This is quite powerful because you'd be able to experience the benefit of both plugins on multiple different channels, which means ultimately that 22
although all of your instrument and drums are separated, if they all fed into this and came out the other end together you'd create a really nicely blended layer that would help to gel the mix through together. The way you can do this on ableton on a send and return like i explained or on a track group. Now I know pro tools has track grouping as well and i'm sure FL Studio and Logic Pro do too or you may have to adapt a method of doing it but this is an example which works slightly differently to send and return which could equally help your mix out. Say you group all the tracks of the drums together, you have them all levelled and hitting hard af, you can affect them all a stage before a send and return merging the sound more to make it more wholesome and fuller. This is the example, I threw some drums out to a chopped loop, and you can see highlighted in light blue the group of drums. On this group is the solid state logic meter acting as the glue for the drums. The settings are simple, super slow attack, super fast release , no threshold and a touch of make up gain. This combines all the drums together and sounds super rewarding to the ear. It is literally discernible instantly that it is active. From this stage I can parallel compress further using the method described earlier if im doing it for a certain characteristic. The important thing here is not too much compression!! Just gentle touches here and there will bring out some life and character.
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Everything described here can equally be applied with different plugins. let's say you seperate the kick and 808 out to a different group because you want your claps and hats to get the same reverb and delay settings. Here's how it would look. The overall group with the ssl would stay the same and a new group within that group would be created with just the high end percussion and drums
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As you can see 3 new plugins are affecting just the hi percussion group and the kick and 808 have gone into their own low group within the overall drum group. So the initial SSL is still working on top of all the new processing. 25
Signal chain Once the sound is cleaned, up any post processing things like effects saturation ete come in to play. The signal chain is very important here because depending on where you put certain plugins affects the sound. For example, saturation before reverb means that the sound is initially saturated then reverberated which may appear cleaner. Saturating after the reverb: you're saturating the reverberated signal meaning there is more chance for it to have phase issues etc or you may have actually created a more desired sound. The sound is consequently ;altered and differs from sat>rev vs. rev>sat Once you have the sound the way you want it it's time to re-level it against your original sound. For example, if you had your snare levelled to -9dB and it sat well in the mix at that volume, then now with all your effects the snare grows to -2db, take of around 6db again to put it back in the same place as you had it before for it to not cut too sharply in the mix This is my processing chain, and how I do it varies at times but this is how it goes EQ>SATURATION>COMPRESSION>ADDITIVE EQ>EFFECTS - HALFTIME, PORTAL, CHORUS, RC20, REVERB+DELAY LAST> FINAL EQ (USUALLY LOW CUT) Signal chain is effectively like a jigsaw puzzle which you can put together in multiple ways and the way you put it together is how pretty it comes out (ie what plug in follows the other). It can be really effective to put different effects plugins in different orders and experiment with the sound that comes out but you'll generally want to do all your tidying up work, EQ and compression first, and time 26
based effects like delay and reverb at the end. It's quite subjective but at times its better to compress a sound first and then eq it if the sound of it is extremely low or has really wavering dynamics. What you won’t want to do is calen up a sound , add reverb and saturate it, add portal and halftime because effectively you start to half time the mushy spread out widened reverb layer too, not just the instrument or drum. It may be helpful to you if you struggle with mud in the mix to do this. Anything you do to your instruments think of the clarity and the purpose of it first. It might not even need any effects and you're just adding them because you think that's what needs to be done. Once you have your sound cleaned up, think of it like this. What kind of sound is this? Bass Element, percussion, main lead, small recurring melody. Does it need to be wider or spacier? if yes, reverb and delay along with chorus are great, stereo width plugins like matthew lane stereo delta or JST Sidewidener, echoboy, panman, timless2. Panning really helps with this too and is mostly used on leads and percs. Does the sound need to be thicker? if yes, compressor, clipper, saturation, overdrive, oneknob pumper, decapitator Does the sound needs to be clearer? maybe a volume thing or try a boost in hi’s or low’s, alternatively scoop out some mid>maybe it's just some left over mud- best thing is nothing is set in stone so go back and change it if you don't like it.
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Is the sound clashing with another element in my mix? Grab another EQ, put it last and take out some bass or eq out some hi’s. Harmonics Saturation: adds frequencies above present frequencies in the sound, helps to intensify and crisp the sound, T Racks soft clipper, Soundtoys saturator Kush ubk-1 Waves Apex Sometimes initially saturating a sound before eq and anything else can enhance the natural character of it without being detrimental to the mix. Sometimes saturation after initial eq can help to bring out the character of the sounds you kept. It is quite subjective but try making the decision whilst your mixing, what do you prefer the sound of. What sounds closest to the record you like to listen to ? harmonic processing is effectively doubling frequencies at the octaves or depending on the algorithm at different frequencies. It makes the sound harmonically richer increasing the character of the sound whilst retaining good dynamics. Effectively, the sound gets louder through harmonics but often it doesn't have an overall effect on the meter so the sound only appears to be louder to the ear. This can save us masses of headroom. The best plug in for this is sound toys decapitator. It has an auto gain reduction feature which depends on how hard you push up the drive of the plug in. All the settings on decapitator are based on the old school desks and you have 5 profiles to choose from. The E setting is 28
especially good on drums really bringing out the knock of the drums and making them very well rounded but punchy. The A setting is very well balanced and coupled with the light and dark tone switch, it can really help to shape your sound. If you want a duller sound, go for dark, and something a bit higher and sharp go for bright to crisp up that high end. It’ll give that extra Edge and sharpness that it might lack otherwise. It acts as an alternative for just boosting with eq or making a sound louder with a fader. With this plug in, or most saturation in general, you don't really lose the original sound too much and don't have to mess around with your mix too much more levels wise. This can really be effective in Buss routing or group effects. You can apply saturation to the drums overall or the leads overall and have them gel together alternatively to compression. The sound will go through the decapitator and saturate together blending the harmonics nicely. If you're missing the blend on two seperate elements, try it, it's saved me hours faffing with EQ and compression. Effects Some of the best effects that you can use are effectrix, portal, halftime gross beat and I'll mention some great chorus, delays and Reverbs. Halftime and Gross Beat are 2 powerful units which can provide a variety and a natural ebb and flow in a mix. The way a mix works really is to have the ability to continually engage the listener . If elements in the mix are changing and morphing tastefully then ultimately it makes a beat or track more interesting. It’s purpose is to guide the listener through the track and adding a variety of darkness or glitchiness to a certain layer in the beat really achieves that; modulating the music in a way that enhances elements of the mix and effectively makes it way more appealing to the ear. Think of mixing 29
as a creative element rather than just cleaning up the sounds. Sure of course you want to get it all sharp and punchy but sharp and punchy all the way through becomes really boring after a while. Try grab a halftime and throw it on hi hats for a bar with the mix at 10%. Mess around with Gross Beat the same way, use the complex section of the presets and really trip up the main lead. SugarBytes Effectrix is another staple to add to the arsenal. It is essentially a multi effects processor that enables you to use certain effects and trigger them to start or stop with in a period of time in the beat. Now you can do this with multiple effects to get some real crazy and unique sounding stuff. Automating when it turns on and off can really help you to achieve a contrast in your music you haven't reached before and using this subtly would be insane on your productions. Think about the arrangement of the beat and ask yourself, is this instrument doing the same for too long?; is there something i can do to vary it up slightly?; I even used gross beat on vocals to chop and screw them like crazy for like a mega effect section which is a thing I would say experiment with. You may surprise yourself with the things you find and might make a little signature out of it! GrossBeat + Halftime- incredible tools but side note; eq after pleaseeeee. When you halftime the sound, it gets bassier, look at an eq graph after you apply a halftime on to it . Take those lows back out, don't let it crap your kick and 808 up.
Automation This is one of my most underused techniques really but is so so powerful. You can mostly automate all parameters in a DAW so to create further contrast in an instrumental, you can take the mix dial 30
on a halftime plug in for example and automate it to go from 0-100% in a transition section, or automate the drive on an overdrive to intensify over time. Think of a static effect you love. Lets say its delay. Imagine the delay feedback increasing or the intensity of the delay increasing at the end of each bar on a pluck or synth. This would add a colourful texture to your stereo field and be way more captivating and creative than just using it standardly. You can even couple this with buss effects for some crazy results, like have the whole mix drop into a lofi section or filter it out the top end with an EQ. Just those little nuances would kick your mix into life. Here are some of my favourite PlugIns you could start using that you may have not heard of just yet. Effectrix Portal RC 20 Air Music Technology - effects pack. Sound broad but these are so wide use and so sick. They have the OVO 40 lofi unit, some neat chorusses , reverbs , padmakers JST pixalator, ridiculous bit reducer/ lo-fi maker. Sounds so sick Reverb For me there is only one reverb company and that's Valhalla DSP. These guys will take your mix from good to great. Just using its simple interface makes it so rewarding to use, and flicking through the presets and adjusting the mix dial to taste can really spark some creat creative results. Try short wide reverbs on snares, Thick reverb on vocals or play around with experimenting with reverb on a bass element. Sounds crazy i know but with the valhalla plugins you can take out the bass end so you only affect the top end stuff that can be reverbed and stereo. Sometimes it provides some eerie sounding stuff or helps gets some width into areas that would feel otherwise flatter. 31
Obviuosly dint throqw a reverb on the basss and think why does this sound stupid but you can experiment with some stuff just to see how it sounds. You might find a use for it other than using it as a bass. It may become more useful as an effect etc etc. Just some things to think about really to help you spruce up your workflow and get used to using more creatively . Valhalla make a few different reverbs but: Vintage Verb Plate Room Are the ones that you’ll find so much love for. Couple of honorable mentions are UberMod Shimmer Delay
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Mixing the ... I wanted the mixing the ...Part of the book to be kind of the lowdown on how Mix the big power players in our beats that people often ask about. 808 Mixing the 808 is one of the most important things in a hip hop or production track. You want it to be thick and bassey but not overpowering as such. How do you achieve that? Initially you’ll want to prep the sound with some EQ, low cutting anything under 25-30Hz being a general sweet spot. Not a lot of speakers can actually reproduce that sound very well and therefore it isn't necessary in the mix. Plus in bigger speakers this can get really boomy and overbearing so not really a characteristic of a bass that you weren't. It’ll sound like it's making your mix more shallow and like it swallowing all of the available are for everything to breath.
My favorite additive EQ to use on this would be the aforementioned EQP1-A. Once again , boost and attenuate by 1 at 60hz to get that resonant band which appears fuller and wider across all speakers and headphones. This trick you can really feel and hear. Sadly it only really works with this specific EQ unit because of the way its coded to match the original hardware but you can achieve similar effects with 33
a standard eq and a little saturation. use one EQ to dip out 60hz by 0.5 of a dB ish and one to raise it by the same and apply a little saturation. One of the best 808 tools ive used is RBass from waves. You get this really simple interface and really clean big bodied intensity from the bass which enriches its harmonics and blends it into the orignal 8080 signal. It's like a slight compressor, touch of saturation and expansion. It's an amazing tools to boost out that bass and make it feel super fat. Once again, it can equally be achieved by saturation but the fact that this is specifically built with bass in mind gives it that edge in class for me.
An amazing way to heighten the stereo effect of your 808 whilst maintaining the bass in mono is to duplicate the channel. High Cut everything on the main 808 that goes past 350-500 hz (find that sweet spot for you) and low cut everything on the new duplicate to the same frequency. On the duplicated channel with the low cut on it, take a stereoizer plugin like matthew lane delta and crank up the dry wet 34
for that element and literally hear it grow. It’ll evenly spread nicely a little bit wider and in turn create this sound of an overall thicker bass.
Now this doesn't work for all 808s but its amazing for R&B ones and really good on anything that has a little growl in it . It helps the harmonics and more melodic areas of the 808 to break through the mix a little better and will help to make it become more audible on crappy speakers, in turn enhancing the quality of the bass on big and good speakers. This effect is significantly more noticeable in headphones! I don't tend to compress a lot on an 808 because mostly, it is already compressed sound when out of the box. The only time I would would be on more of a pierre/zaytoven type 808 where it has that unique character at the start of the 808 sound. Now i'll set the attack really high so that it doesn't affect this area but has an affect on the remainder of the tail end of the 808 making it fuller and tiger. Keep the release time relatively short too and the jobs a good`n. You get a bit more 808 out of it and it feels a good bit more basey and mean. 35
Kick When You're ear identifies a kick, especially in an instrumental it looks for certain characters within the sound.. Many of us think that just by boosting bass ends, we’ll achieve what we want from the kick but often it gets lost in the mix. TRY THIS! Take a slight EQ curve and boost somewhere around 2.5khz to 5kHz. This will simulate the skin on a real life kick drum being hit by the beater when a drum player presses the pedal. The slight tap sound there can really help your kick jump out in the mix and be more present ever you feel it lacks that little bit of character but you've boosted crazy amounts of bass already and the mixing the kick is just driving you insane. The SoundToys decapitator i mentioned in the saturation section is amazing on kicks. Any saturation is really done correctly. Just gentle touches of saturation can amplify the boom and hit of the kick, that coupled with some tone control so you don't saturate too many low frequencies and too many high ones really helps us get that extra volume out of it. Depending on the kick, may sure you low cut enough room to allow the 808 to carry thoise sub and low frequencies. Getting a tighter kick is really eq choices and cutting from around 50 Hz to 70 Hz will help you get that slappy nature in the kick and it’ll have less overlapping frequencies with the 808, the less frequencies they share, the better you’ll hear each individual element. That's why sidechain became very popular, because it literally let the kick move the 808 out of the way for a brief amount of time to get it that punch. With some good EQing and practice, you’ll find needing to rely on sidechain will be made more obsolete and you’ll be finding ways to use it more creatively than as a saving grace in your mix. If we can make the room in the frequency spectrum ourselves, why rely on the computer to automatically do it, it isn't always as accurate as it seems. 36
Ultimately, don’t do too much. Keep it simple and sounding clean. Snares and Claps Snares and claps can be stressed a little more with processing. They can have reverb delay etc. applied on to them with less effect on the overall phase correlation of the instrumental meaning that the mix will stay clean and correct even when you manipulate the snare around. I like to use both hi cut and lo cut in the snare to make room for the hi hats and stop it from overlapping the bass and hogging the middle of the mix. Try Mixing in mono to get this right , it’ll stop you from hearing the stereo and help your ears to discern the frequencies better. Because the snare is usually placed mono with the kick and bass, it'll help you find the pocket of sound to put it into . Saturation can help make the snare a lot more dramatic. It'll crisp up the top end further and amplify the role of the clap or snare. Once again you won't rely on a volume fader and can get a little more juice out of the snare. I love a short wide reverb on the snare . Valhalla obviously amazing for it , there is a really smooth preset which’ll just add some width and polish to the sound without sounding like a huge reverb smothering the snares sound. It’ll be really short and snappy, just as you want to keep it.
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I often use transient shapers like izotope neutron on a snare to get a little less tail and a little more snap into the sound. It can be done manually by turning down the tail end of the sound
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Hi Hats hi-hats EQ is really simple, take out a lot of the bass. I compress them with a higher ratio this time just because I want more of the tail of the hi hat. I often use Kush ubk-1 because it has a compressor already built into a saturator and has the ability to bring up the Punch and the snappiness of the hi-hats simultaneously. You can use the density dial to get the sound feel as if it has a little more pressure.
Halftime or Grossbeat with the ½ speed setting and the mix really low can add and enhance your triplet hi hats and hi hat runs. Keeping the mix really low will darken them and add a layer underneath that’ll help bolster the variety hearing new sounds the listener haven't heard yet. It's Just a little piece of ear candy. A key to getting hi hats right is panning. I always separate hi hat channels in to multiple, and pan them slightly differently, the main hi hats staying close to the centre and any runs or triplets panned a bit more slightly left or right. 39
Panning Panning can be a fantastic way to create space in the mix and it is mostly under utilized it can really help ensure each element of the beat has its own pocket to sit in and helps to disperse the energy across the instrumental. One thing to note that when you incorporate panning into a mix, you often will need to relevel certain things because they will begin to appear audibly louder against their original volume and position as they no longer coincide with other frequency shared by other elements, for example, snare and hi hats, snares and instruments etc. Panning is a versatile tool which can add the extra clarity and dimension you may lack in your mix today. You can use some plugins like the Sennheiser Orbit and Boz digital poan knob as an alternative to using your DAW pan knob.
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The inbuilt pan in the DAW is fine to use but these plug ins are a little more diverse and more accurate at pocketing the sound properly . For instance, the Sennheiser Orbit plugin is a 360 panning VST that can create and further dimension in the mix. You can use in line with automation to get a lot of movement into the mix and have elements swap place to create more interest. You can use it on 808 glides when the 808 is high and playing more of a melodic note, panning each slight left and slight right to give some direction and highlight the sound out to the listener. One main point is to keep the bass in the middle, don't pan out the kick and bass or snare for that matter to muo much. That's the heart really of the beat and otherwise you can risk the mix sounding a bit too hollow. Or empty. Panning i find quite fun to experiment with. I love adding different directions to percussion sounds and changing where they appear as the beat progresses. It catches the listener out in a good way and elevates the feeling of progression, protecting you from having a beat sounding too samey. 41
Vocals
This is a working mix which helps you hear a finalised sound without touching too much Whenever I work with an artist I literally just use the JST GR and Antares Auto-Tune 5 vocals and a couple of reverbs and delays and stuff like that really gives complete sound. GR gives such a clear tone that I use it even in my final mixes. It's very versatile but quite aggressive. Sometimes using the deluxe version instead with the dry wet mix dial really helps so you can tone down the aggression and just get that clarity out of the plug in. I have a few different approaches to mixing vocals. It differs based on the vocal but I usually start with a Vocal Rider plugin to even out dynamics without compression. Basically it's a plug in with a fader that auto 42
levels the performance of the vocals boosting super quiet sections and taming the louder parts to an overall smaller range in vocals. Because rap vocals often need to stay in one consistent stream, this tool work fantastically to even things out and gives you a foundation to build upon. EQ is the first most important step in mixing a vocal, removing out low end that's unnecessary depends on the voice but look out for any boomy areas in the low end and anything super high up like 18khz which is not friendly on your ears. Don't do any boosting just yet or keep it really really slight. The main goal here is to correct some of the things that bother you in the vocal. The next stage is really compression. Your first point of evening out any dynamics that jump over the volume threshold. So the first compressor is to control. Use a heavier threshold to keep any spikes in check. Follow it with a longer attack higher release time, shorter threshold compressor. Like the
Pro C2 has a great vocal setting where it autos the ratio so you just do everything through the threshold dial. This should get the vocal sounding polished and clean. So Far we have EQ>COMP>COMP lightly The next step here would be to de-ess the vocals, removing any sibilant sound, the sss out of the vocals. I often follow up with a lighter ds afterwards after processing considering a lot of additive EQ and othe [processing can add this back in to the vocals. This really 43
tames the vocas and keeps the sound of them under control for the whole song. The next step is really a case of taste. I like the Boz digital EQ on vocals and the fairchi;le 660/670 but you can use an API/SSL, MAAG EQ4, or any of the Puig Tec Waves EQs. API also has a compressor which has real nice vocal settings. You don't really want to slam the vocals in this case because you've tamed the dynamics before but its just as an extra character giver. A little bit extra pop and fullness within the sound. Directly after this, you can start to add more character effects like saturation, parallel compression, reverbs, delays and all that jazz. Anything to enhance the vocal sound and that's totally discernible by you. I usually do all the character processing on channels on Buss/Sends and Returns Scheps have a really good plugin called parallel particles which is perfect for on grouped vocals. It has 4 different parameters which you can use to process the totality of the vocals for a rougher mix or use it more lightly on a final mix. It’s a really complete tool that’ll help you understand how to describe what your vocal need more of or lack and help you 44
think about certain sounds in a way that's a slight bit more visual. A lot of the vocal is in the initial recording. You need to make sure you don't get any clipping within the recording so that you have enough room for all your effects. It's better for the vocal to come out a bit quiet and quality rather than super load with a load of audible issues like distortion. Mastering Basic Mastering A basic master is simply achieved with a bit of limiting or multi band compression once the mix is done and complete. It can be done with an all in one solution like the izotope ozone vsts (which I'll mention below) or with a couple of limiters and a bit of dynamic processing. The easiest way to master a beat is eq out any left over bass, add a bit of top sheen with a high shelf and low end beef with a low boost ( just a touch on both) and let the limiter or multi band do the work of increasing the volume. You want to leave an ample amount of headroom in your mix so that you can achieve a better master all in all. Somewhere between -9dB to -6db of headroom is usually good enough but the more room the merrier. You have a lot more freedom to use those dynamic plugins and can even try a bit of tape saturation or a touch of standard saturation to softly energise the beat a little more. The Ozone Mastering Suites are really cool tools that can analyze your audio with an A.I. to help you master it. The best thing would be to learn how the parameters work and do it yourself yet it's a very powerful tool for learning how to master better . You'll learn the ins and out of all the plugins involved in the master chain , even by 45
loading up a simple preset . it’ll walk you through all the components you could use to master a beat. Once again, the simpler the better. You wouldn't want to drive things too hard and destroy the dynamics in the beat but you wouldn't want it to lack in volume in comparison to other beats or songs out in the world on the market or in the charts. Waves TG Mastering This plug in is amazing for pre mastering. It has a couple of different levels to it but it offers a really clean and customisable pre master sound. Similar to just applying a multi band compressor on the mix, this plug in can get you a really polished sound and if you have access to it, I recommend you try it out. You can use it to complete your master or use it as i do and add gentle adjustments to the sound. It lets you split mid and side channels like the m/s EQ we went through but on a grand scale. Really it’s just an extra touch, nothing make or break about it (you won't have a worse master if you don't use it) but it has a couple of parametres like inbuilt eq, saturation, compression, stereo widening. To learn how to use this one is a little trickier but load up any Lu Diaz preset and you’ll be able to pick apart what's going on. Mastering with Clippers T racks soft clipper can add an edge to your mix. Using it instead of alimiter gives a louder sounding mix which you could choose to couple with limiting but for simple hard hitting master, any soft 46
clipper will do . A little touch of drive , (hell even crank it hard and dial it back down) will get you the elevation you need in a quick master that’ll give you the volume and body if you need to send out beats quickly but ready sounding. Mastering with Limiters Limiting is a dangerous thing if not done properly. You need to achieve a target threshold. Youtube spotify and apple music have made this easy for us. The basic figure here is , get your mix to -12 lufs (approx) in the master. This will ensure your master stays consistent across every digital and non digital platform. What is LUFS? LUFS is basically another word for dBs but has a slightly different algorithms. It is true that losing 1 lufs in loudness is the same as taking off a decibel of sound with a meter but lufs (loudness units full scale) have become the across the board way to measure and adjust the volume of sound. With the target LUFS in mind, you can use your limiter to reach that unit. You can use any of the metres underneath in the metering section to check the overall loudness of a track. If its going too high say -8/-9 lufs then your elosing dynamic quality and all major streaming platforms will turn down the master to match their threshold. So getting your audio closer to that target, sounding crisp and punchy is ideal. It was introduced to stop people's music sounding too loud or much louder than another track, and if you think about it, everytime you hear a good master on a track, you often hear it at a very similar volume across the board from track to track. It was a way to standardise how loud things hgo and to stop them from being squashed littles square looking waveforms here is the example. Take your master, master it to -12 lufs, and take the same master and master it to -6 lufs. -6 lufs will lose quality but appear louder to you at first. As soon as spotify or youtube recognises it it turns the master down by about 6-8 luf ( effectively dB) and for the -12 lufs counterpart, it keeps it at the same level. You’ll have maintained a lot more dynamics using the -12 method and overall get 47
a better sound out of it and keep in check all the work you've done in mixing, not sorting all those tiny intricacies you spent so hard working on. Mastering is the final step to get the volume up and accentuate all the good work, mixing is the bread and butter heavy changes you need to make to get it to sound better louder. Mastering won't just fix a crappy sounding mix, it'll make any problems more and more obvious. With the ‘loudness wars’ having been over the last few years if not more, music is being mastered more dynamically with less onus on turning music up as loud as possible. Metering solutions Here are my favourite master metres to make sure everything is a good level and balance. Mastering the mix Levels - Solid plug in that’ll help you to understand everything about modern mastering, and it really helps checking your mix too HOFA 4U Master Meter Nugen Mastercheck/ Pro - allows you to hear how audio would sound when uploaded to a streaming platform. You Lean Meter - Checks the LUFS of a track, really simple plug in Waves WLM LOUDNESS PLUS - simple metre that has a loot of inbuilt and accurate detection of loudness and volume Waves Dorough - has a great classic interface but does the same thing basically 48
Referencing Referencing can help to show you how your mix sounds against another track. You can load a reference track into the vst and a/B it with your master to make sure everything is up to scratch. Mastering the miox reference can help to show you where you're mix lacks in comparison to another but most plugins, (any referencing plugin can really help you learn how to get your sound more like the pros) Advanced Masting Here is my master chain i use on most of my tracks when I'm finishing them off. I apply some of the premastering stuff i went through if i find it necessary but here is my chain i use that i've tried and tested over time. It gets real nice rsluts and is easy to set up. SSL Compressor - really simple, just like the buss compression I mentioned earlier, this just ods the same thing but overall . does not do a lot, high attack quick release, lowest threshold so the needle just moves a tiny bit and no make up gain. M/S EQ I use this to cut out any unwanted frequencies in the speakers. I split it into mid side to control the tone of what comes through which section of 49
the speaker. Nothing drastic here just a few simple cuts Tape/General Saturation Little bit of saturation. I really just love the tape sounding one but any hint of soft clip or decapitator will add that harmonic inch to the mix. Don't want to drive it too hard, you want it to sit on the master and not do a whole lot apart from a bit of analog warmth. Double Additive EQ Nothing cray here, just used some analog modeled EQ to pick out little frequencies i like or that are lacking. You can do this with in izotope ozone or the TG mastering Suite but i like to touch it up slightly separately. Literally just to taste but it can add that missing sparkle in the hi’s and the missing weight in the bass. 50
Mastering the Mix Animate Really simple here, just a character booster. I use this very softly on select frequencies just to give the extra dramatism to the master. It has dry wet for each parameter and is very detailed and explains what every parameter does. It's basically an expander (which increases the dynamic range) a bit of a compressor and saturation and a touch of steroization. A few limiters I like each of these differently for their different sounds. I generally gently limit on each to capitalize on the different way they process the audio. It sometimes sounds so forced if i'm limiting heavy because of lots of headroom so i like to use different limiters to create retain those transient hitting sounds and keep these dynamics in check. I won't usually go 51
overboard on all of them but just using a few limiters can just end up sounding a little more natural and you can get a little bit better preservation of all your hard work in the mix (about 2db on each if i'm trying to reach an overall of -6db etc. evenly distribute gain reduction across them for best results ive found) Answering some questions. I hate mixing because it is time consuming and boring, how can i make it more fun? I hope I've shared enough of my fun tis in the book to help you with this. Mixing is really about results and getting better than you were before. Think of it like gaining xp in a game. You get stronger the more you try , the better you get the harder it is to beat yourself but all the little hours you put into it come back rewarding . getting that quality quality mix after a little bit of self study and practice will be so good for your morale. Like being able to complete a mix in 20 mins flat and get it uploaded and out there, or ready to send to friends after just getting familiar with some of the tips I've shown will surely help. Using a variety of plugins and experimenting with the tools in the DAW i would say are great ways of making it fun . Get the levels right then just play around , make things sounds like they didn't originally, morph them into something you love. Rob Papaen reverse is a great plugin you can put on a lead reverse the signal and play it back after the original forward signal so you could just throw that on some hints for a bit of variety . that's a simple example to just get you to try things out! /use something you haven't used before! Have a guitar synth or lead? Put some chorus on it , make it all washed out and psychedelic sounding. Don't just do what you here in everyone else's production because it's ‘right ‘ or the ‘best’ way to do it. 52
Incorporate the mix into your workflow to speed it up and literally just experiment. Maybe you like your snare louder, put it louder. Maybe you like ping pong delay on the hiu hats. Pout it on there. See how it sounds. You’ll develop. Keep it up and get some studying done. Think how bad your first few beats were. Now think how much you've improved, smae with mixing. How do i make my mix loud without clipping? Gain stage, level, correct mastering. Read thoise bits in the book and you should be well on the way to a good master. Grab a n invisible limiter plug in like A.O.M or T racks and listen to the mix would sound if limited. Thes can really point out to you if you've added too much sauce on your drums and they start rattling the speakers in a bad way. The E book should have you up to scratch on how to retain your volume without clipping things like crazy. How do I get the mix sounding as good in the speakers as it does in my headphones? What you have to appreciate here that speakers and headphones reproduce the sound differently. It's good to swap between them because speakers can highlight obvious flaws in the mix. A lot of the time headphones are nor bassy enough and don't reproduce the bass well so a speaker will then replay the same bass to you and it'll be stupidly loud. Don't get comfortable using one medium to check you mix . try using both, chopping and changing, maybe your speakers 53
actually accurately produce the sound better but you’re listening to the voice in your head telling you that the headphones are crazy, user those. Learn how they sound and how they are different and use it to your advantage. Everything I find is a bit more obvious ins speaker . However, they do have some drawbacks. Headphones are usually the best way to check your mix for stereo field issues or stereo effects, they will sound better generally because they are close to the ear so reverb will sound fuller, delay would be a bit more prominent etc. But most of us don't have sound treated rooms so lack the ability to use speakers in the same way. That being said, i find headphones way better or checking all of my time based and modulating effects because it's a lot clearer to the ears what's going on. 54
Glossary EQ - Equalization, basically analyses the frequencies in a sound and allows you determine what to remove and what to add. They come in lots of shapes and sizes a VSTs but roughly do mostly the same stuff. All a workflow and preference thing. Reductive EQ - The act of using the EQ to remove the frequencies for a sound Frequencies - non scientifically, it's all the pitches within a sound that make up the totality of it. Mud - Low end stuff that clashes together when piled up and makes a lot of mess in the mix. Danger spots are around 125Hz, 250Hz Hz - the unit of measurement when describing frequencies or a sound area (250hz-500hz) and probably some other sciency stuff. Mid/Side EQ - The act of splitting the EQ into independent channels so you can effect the side and middle frequencies separately Stereo Field - The field in which all sounds exist. Your headphones reproduce this really well and it can be made really obvious with panning something left or right. It stops being down the centre and appears more angled in the speaker or headphones. Tweeter - The part of the speaker responsible for producing hi end. Mastering / Mastering chain - The final step to touch up the mix and get it finalised and higher in overall volume/ mastering chain is the order of plugins in the master that help you achieve this. Brick wall - the act of stopping a sound entirely at a certain point. Like closing a gate. Post analyzer - the analyzer on a plugin that shows you how the frequencies look after you've done something to them Compressor - A Dynamic VST used for reducing or evening out changes in loudness Signal chain - the order of plugins on a channel or master Additive EQ - The process of adding to a sound with an equaliser 55
Saturation - The act of creating harmonic frequencies within an original sound to raise the character and dramatism with in it. Hardware - Original real life versions of VST’s that were used in old school or new modern studios. dB - Decibels, the unit of measurement corresponding to what we know as volume DAW - Digital Audio Workstation. FL, Ableton, Pro Tools, Logic, Reaper etc. Dynamic range - the difference between the loudest and quietest points in the beat Waveform - The way the original sound looks when you view it in the DAW. Think of an audio clip and how it looks. Sidechain- the process of routing one piece of audio to another to create a ducking effect Mono (not stereo) Everything down the middle of the speaker. Kick and bass galore Levelling - the process of making sure each volume of each instrument or drum appears correct to standards set in the music world. Limiter - An aggressive compressor used to finalise a mix. 56
Outro Hope you guys have enjoyed the ebook and have learned something new whilst reading it. Or if not, hopefully you managed to become more efficient in making mixing decisions and have bettered your musical career. I tried to make everything as simple as possible to understand and tried to give you a rationale as to why I do the things I do in my mixes. This book can definitely help alleviate some of the pressure you feel when getting to the mixing portion of production and will get you up to speed and on the right track to bettering your sound, creatively and professionally. MG
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