November 2018

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DON’T MISS: CRITICAL PRE-WINTER PREPS

WHY YOU NEED A SHOVEL IN YOUR BUG OUT KIT

IN THIS ISSUE:

NOVEMBER 2018

THE DANGERS OF RFID IDENTITY THEFT

BUY THE PERFECT BUG OUT PROPERTY

SANITIZING LONG-TERM WATER STORES

AVOID BEING SURPRISED IN YOUR CAMP

USING SHIPPING CONTAINERS IN YOUR SHTF PLANNING

STRATEGIES FOR RATIONING YOUR SUPPLIES and more…

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018

Contents

,

FEATURED

DON’T FORGET THESE CRITICAL PRE-WINTER PREPS Before you know it, winter will be here. The cold, snowy weather that makes doing anything outside extremely unpleasant. And on my homestead, it sneaks up on me every year…

page 4

WHY YOU NEED A SHOVEL IN YOUR BUG OUT KIT I can't tell you the amount of times I've packed, and repacked my bug out bag. I've lost count myself. Because I'm always trying to rotate in new tools and bits of gear that I've heard…

page 5

BUY THE PERFECT BUG OUT PROPERTY It's tough to find the perfect piece of property. I know, we spent the better part of 5 years with a watchful eye on the market before we found right piece of land at a price we could afford…

page 6

SIMPLE TACTICS TO AVOID BEING SURPRISED IN YOUR CAMP When you're camping you're uncomfortably vulnerable. All that's between you and any animals (or people) intent on what you have is either a thin layer of tent. Or perhaps not even this…

page 8

DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW TO RATION YOUR SUPPLIES? No matter how much you plan, the risk is always there. You don't have enough food to go around. Eventually it will run out, because you've got extra mouths to feed, or a crisis that has …

page 9

THE DANGERS OF RFID IDENTITY THEFT I'm a big fan of technology. It's what enables me to create these posts and share my experiences and adventures in survival with you. But with new technology comes risks, and there are a…

page 10

SANITIZING CONTAINERS FOR LONG-TERM WATER STORAGE A ready supply of water is vital for anyone planning ahead for a crisis. The CDC recommends a minimum of a half-gallon, per person, per day, but I'd aim for three or four times this amount…

page 11

SHOULD YOU USE A SHIPPING CONTAINER IN YOUR SHTF PLANS? I'm a big fan of shipping containers. They're sturdy, available second-hand for just a few thousand dollars, and are much easier solution for shelter than anything else on the market…

page 13

SMART LESSONS FROM THE TRAIL TO APPLY TO YOUR BUG OUT Getting your bug out bag together is just the first step. You've jammed it full of everything you think you need over the next 72 hours, and you're all set to make the hike to your bug out…

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VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018

DON’T FORGET THESE CRITICAL PRE-WINTER PREPS Before you know it, winter will be here. The cold, snowy weather that makes doing anything outside extremely unpleasant. And on my homestead, it sneaks up on me every year. Every year I promise this will be the last time, and it seems that despite my attempts to get organized, there's always something pulling me away. Taking my attention. A new project that has me "putting off" what I should be doing to make this winter better than all of those before it. So, I'm putting this out there. Over the next couple of months, I'm making a commitment to follow through on all of these tasks. They will be done before winter hits, and if you're a homesteader like me, or someone who simply wants to be prepared when winter strikes, I recommend you follow along too. BUILD UP MY STOCKPILE OF WOOD Let's face it. You can never have enough pre-cut firewood. I use firewood to heat my home, and we've also got a closed-off outdoors area where we barbeque, even during winter. Having a source of fuel to keep your home warm and cook your food is a smart idea. And however much you're thinking you need, I can tell you this. You're going to need four or five times that amount. I've built my own woodshed to keep my supplies out of the elements, and off the ground.

It's also where I keep most of my tools, like the axes and our chainsaws. For a quick fix you could even stack up firewood along the sides of your home (so it's offered some protection by the overhang of your roof), but I'd really recommend buying a waterproof tarp to ensure it stays dry. GIVE MY HOME A WINTER ‘ONCE OVER” There's a long list of tasks you should really get to before winter hits. Get someone out to sweep out your chimney, or buy the appropriate brush and rods to do it yourself, and give it a good clean. Get a ladder and go around your entire roof, clearing out the gutters of any branches, leaves and other debris, so the down pipes will work once it starts to rain. I even like to get a hose up and give our roof a good hosing down, then get up in the roof to check for any leaks. It's much easier to plug a leaky roof on a sunny day at the end of summer than it is during a massive winter storm. Once you're done it'll also pay to check the insulation on any pipes that will be hit by the cold, so these don't burst. Oh and ensure you've got everything you need to deal with the snow. Plenty of ice melt, salt, and a shovel and snowblower that are in good working order will help tremendously before the first snow drops.

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START BUILDING YOUR FOOD SUPPLY The time is now to be filling freezer after freezer of meats and ready to eat meals. Hunting once the temperature drops below zero is not fun, I'd much rather be able to grab a handful of deer steaks out of the freezer than spend a day trudging through the snow. There's also a nice little benefit if the g rid g oes down, when you're experiencing freezing weather you won't have to worry about keeping it all frozen without power.

“the more I can get organized before winter, the better…”

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018 cont. My wife actually likes to pre-cook lots of our winter meals, so we're not spending hours fussing around in the kitchen. As a rough rule of thumb, we keep meals like servings of pre-made pasta sauce with ground beef for 2-3 months frozen, though they could probably last longer too, so when we need an easy meal we can boil up a little pasta, defrost the rest and it's hot on the plate within about 10 minutes. One less thing we need to worry about in an emergency. WASH AND CHECK ALL OF YOUR WINTER GEAR Despite being cleaned before going into storage, when you're pulling out clothes that haven't been looked at for 6+ months, they're going to need a good wash. Get everything out now, and either give it a wash or a chance to air out. Any mold can be killed with vinegar, but if it's ruined your clothes now would be a good time to go buy yourself a new jacket, or whatever. Same goes for all your thermals. Wash it, and make sure it's all in good working order, the elastic is still functioning, and you can still fit into it all. Check all of the linings and seams on your boots, and that there's no play in the sole. When I pulled out the new pair of boots I bought last winter I was a little shocked the rubber sole was peeling off. The glue had given out. It's been repaired now and works a treat. CHECK YOUR ELECTRONICS Without working batteries, your electronics are useless. Do a stock take in your home, and check everything is in good working order. I try not to store anything with batteries in, as they tend to leak eventually and ruin that particular piece of gear. But now is a good time to check it all. Open up the back and either replace the batteries, or remove them altogether. Swap a new set in and check it all still works, and take the batteries out and put it back into your stockpile. The only things that should have batteries in are things you're using, like smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. DON’T LET YOUR STOCKPILE GO TO RUIN I've mentioned this before but it's very important. Everything you've got sitting in your stockpile will be ruined if you let it freeze, unfreeze, freeze, unfreeze.

This is especially critical if you've got perishables stored in an additional building, like the shipping container we use as a backup storage unit. Move your perishables and any food items to an area of your home that will be kept warm enough to stop them freezing. It's a big task, but it also gives you the chance to do a full stock-take of your shelves, and you may even notice that there's some items missing that you thought you had. We did this a couple of weeks ago, and unfortunately found a nice little family of rats had chewed through the solid plastic containers our oats were in and they we're enjoying the endless buffet. The damaged food has been tossed and we've heavily baited everything to stop this happening again.

I'm pretty handy but I'm no mechanic, so I usually just drop it into my local auto shop for a tune up.

GET YOUR CAR READY FOR WINTER

Once these are done I should be pretty prepared for the winter.

The final step in my plan is to give my car a once over.

How about you?

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Fix anything that's needed, like the almost thousand dollars on a new automatic transmission my baby needed a few weeks back, so she's good to go. I've also got a couple of "in-car" bug out kits that go into my trunk during winter. Mostly fire-making gear, bedding and winter clothes, and enough food to last 2-3 days. You will want to keep an eye on this though, as anything stored in your trunk will most likely freeze. Which is usually fine, but once it thaws out you will need to toss it.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018

WHY YOU NEED A SHOVEL IN YOUR BUG OUT KIT I can't tell you the amount of times I've packed, and repacked my bug out bag. I've lost count myself. Because I'm always trying to rotate in new tools and bits of gear that I've heard mention, or been recommended to use by a trusted friend. Often, they're ideas that sound great on paper, but don't actually make it into my long-term packing list. They're either cumbersome, add too much weight, or not something I need in my bug out kit. A luxury instead of a "must have." Over the years I've gotten pretty good at knowing what works (and doesn't work) for me and my kit. I've hiked thousands of miles with it on my back, and spent many nights under the stars (or hiding from a storm). I know what's what. And it's not often I add new things to the list. It's just not worth the extra weight, which slows me down and puts extra strain on my ageing joints. But recently I discovered a new piece of gear. One I hadn't personally carried in my pack for ages. A shovel. The last one I had weighed a couple of pounds, and whilst it was a great improvised weapon, the weight alone had me swap it out for a hatchet after a couple of trips. I needed firewood more than the ability to dig holes. And that's where the mini shovel comes in. At just 230mm when fully extended, it folds up to a miniscule 130mm by 60mm. That's smaller than the new iPhone, and it comes with a handy little case to store it in. It's tiny, lightweight. And practical. Now you see, when I was a kid one of the pieces of gear we always had to carry on our camping trips with the Boy Scouts was a shovel. Sure, it was a folding one, but looking back, we did spend a lot of time digging. It always felt like it was my task to cut the trench around our tent to ensure any runoff from the rain didn't run through and soak us all. Perhaps our scout leader just didn't like me.

But as a survivalist, a shovel can be a handy tool. Since adding the mini survival shovel to my kit, here's what I've used it for. 1. Latrine. When you've got to go you've got to go, and being able to dig a hole quick smart to bury any waste is one of the best ways you can be a considerate camper. A small shovel makes this task far easier than using your hands, a stick, or your knife. 2. Gathering. It's not always possible to yank yams and other edibles out with your bare hands, and a small shovel makes it easy to dig these up to add to your pot. I'm always keeping an eye out for things to eat when I'm hiking, and the faster I can collect these, the faster I'm on my way. 3. Bait. I take a small fishing kit everywhere I go, and I'm usually pretty fortunate to catch a fish or two when I'm living off the land. A shovel makes it so easy to dig up earthworms for bait, I'm kicking myself I didn't start carrying this sooner. 4. Seafood. I'm also much more comfortable using the blade of the shovel to chip off oysters and dig for clams in the sand, instead of my knife. So, my knife stays sharp for other jobs, and I'm not risking injury from any slips with the blade. 5. Trenches. Despite my hatred for digging, if you're caught in a bit of bad weather a small trench is one of the best ways you can divert any runoff from your camp. And I was stuck with this duty just last month. You laugh now, but it did help us stay dry. And all of these are only what I've used mine for so far. You could use your shovel to dig a Dakota fire hole to keep the flames out of sight if you're worried about your campfire being spotted during a griddown event. You could use your shovel to help you dig out dig a pit trap and catch substantially bigger game, like a wild pig, than what you could catch on your own. You could use it to dig out your car tires should you get stuck in ice or mud while driving off-road, or to load in rocks and gravel to give your tires a little traction without sticking your hand down there.

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You could use it to cut a hole in the ice to actually break through and fish on a frozen lake or stream you previously were unable to reach. You could use it to dig and hide a cache of supplies, if you're being tracked and want to offload some gear, or if you simply want to leave a stash of supplies for next time. There's so much you can do with a shovel, and in my opinion it's a key piece of gear. But is it worth it? For me, I'd say one thousand percent yes. A tiny addition to my bug out kit makes a world of difference. Primarily because I'm not ruining the edge on my knife or hatchet by using these tools for digging. Which saves me time because I'm not having to resharpen them as much in camp. It's also much safer, as I'm using a tool that's been specifically designed for its job. Digging. It's so much easier to cut a trench, dig a latrine and even collect food with the right tools. So, do yourself a favor, ensure you've got a shovel in your bug out kit. It's worth it.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018 ABUNDANCE OF FOOD Much like water, your bug out is going to be rather challenging if you're not able to secure a steady supply of food. My advice is to find a property that backs onto a state forest, so you've got a larger area you can explore and hunt on when the SHTF. The stream that runs through part of my property has a decent supply of fish, and most of my attempts at fishing so far have always yielded a fish or two. I've done a bit of hunting and was surprised at just how much activity is around, but I do know this will be hit hard once the SHTF and everyone else is hunting too. So we've started gardening with a long-term view, planting heritage crops that are hardy enough to thrive during the cold months, like kale, spinach and potatoes, as well as establishing a ton of different fruit trees. ABUNDANCE OF FUEL

It's tough to find the perfect piece of property. I know, we spent the better part of 5 years with a watchful eye on the market before we found right piece of land at a price we could afford. It's not easy, and there's much that went into the decision. If you want to avoid buying a piece of land that you'll regret, take a look at what went into our decision. It's three years on now, and I couldn't be happier with our purchase.

WHO ELSE LIVES NEARBY I was surprised at just how much people talk once we moved to a small community. Think about who else lives nearby, and what this means for your safety. Can you meet them and build a friendship should you ever need help, or are you totally alone and needing to invest in additional security to ensure your family is safe?

Finally, because we get rather cold winters here, there needs to be a variety of different sources of power generation. We've got plenty of trees, though I don't also want to be cutting these down for firewood and fuel. Inside our cabin is a portable solar kit, complete with alternator and a couple of batteries, that gets locked up inside when we're not around. I also DIY'd a water turbine that goes into the stream and helps keep the batteries charged when winter hits. And we've got a generator too, with enough fuel to keep it running at least a month, more if we only pop it on a couple of hours a day.

WHERE IT IS IN THE WORLD

WHAT THE WEATHER IS LIKE

ANY ZONING RESTRICTIONS?

We wanted was a remote location. Our major homestead is closer to town, as it makes it much more convenient when we need to drop into a mechanics, or buy anything from a store, but we wanted our bug out to be private. Ultimately the swathe of land we bought was far bigger than we initially planned (we wanted 5 to 10 acres but ended up buying closer to 50), because it ticked all the other boxes.

If you're buying a piece of land close to where you live, you should have a good idea of the local climate. But once you start pushing up into the mountains, or getting right down by the water can change the temperatures pretty drastically. Make sure you'll be able to use your property as you intend.

Do your due diligence before buying anything, and ensure you're not going to hit any difficulties building your home on the land you purchase. It can be very difficult to secure permits in wilderness protected areas, and if there's no agricultural zoning you may encounter hurdles with any livestock you plan to raise. Oh, and make sure there's no outstanding timber contracts on your land. The last thing you want is to purchase a pristine bit of property only to have a logging company clear cut swathes of your forest because you didn't look into the fine print.

BUY THE PERFECT BUG OUT PROPERTY

HOW YOU’RE GOING TO GET THERE Depending on how developed the piece of land is you're buying, you're going to need a decent four-wheel-drive to get in and out. I prefer dirt roads for, as it's easier to conceal and may help to keep any prying eyes from "exploring" up your driveway once supplies dry up and people start looting.

ABUNDANCE OF WATER When prepping I always like to stick to the rule of three's, that is, have at least two reliable backups for everything I am stockpiling. The same goes for water. Look for a property that has a reliable water source, whether it's an underground well you can tap, a stream that doesn't dry up during summer, or even a private lake or pond. Oh, and make sure you've got the rights to use this water.

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Finding the perfect piece of land isn't impossible, but it can take time to find the right property for you. Think about all of these points, so when it does become available, you can buy it without question, and have the perfect location for your bug out.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018

SIMPLE TACTICS TO AVOID BEING SURPRISED IN YOUR CAMP When you're camping you're uncomfortably vulnerable. All that's between you and any animals (or people) intent on what you have is either a thin layer of tent. Or perhaps not even this because you've built a quick lean-to shelter. You're exposed to theft and any people who intend you more harm than that, and its vital you get advance notice they're coming. Today, I'm going to run through a variety of different strategies to keep you safe when camping, on your own in the woods. The more of these you do the better, but even using just one could give you the edge you need on someone sneaking up to your camp. To wipe the sleep from your eyes and grab your handgun. It could save your life. GET A DOG The simplest, easiest, and often one of the most effective methods is to get another set of ears and eyes. Get a dog. Preferably a smaller one, because they're often more alert. Owing to their size. Our mongrel Dane-Boxer is far less concerned about someone sneaking up on it than our Pomeranian. I know which one I'd rather as an alarm, though in a fight big George would be far better suited. But if I've got enough warning to wake and load my gun, there won't even be a fight.

GET AN ALARM Next, you need to consider an actual alarm. Systems like the Camp Alert Pe r i m e t e r S e c u r i t y s y s t e m a r e inexpensive, come with their own trip wires, and take up about as much space in your pack as a bar of soap. Just stick the batteries in, extend your tripwires, and anything that disturbs it will be met with an insanely loud siren, more than enough to deter any bear walking up on your camp, or give any human intruders second thoughts on catching you unaware.

If there's an option to have your back to a cliff, a particularly thick patch of brambles, or anything that forms a natural barrier, use it to your advantage. The less paths a potential intruder has to your front door the better, as it gives you less area to protect (and setup trip wires), but also lets you know which direction you need to shoot. GET OUT OF SIGHT The other aspect to think about is how visible your camp is, especially if you're somewhere remote.

GET TRIPWIRES Without an alarm, the next best option is to setup a series of tripwires around your camp. And here's where a couple of things I keep in my fishing kit come in handy. I've got plenty of fishing line which makes the perfect tripwire, and a couple of small fishing bells clipped to it make a surprising amount of noise on a clear and calm night. The only downside is if conditions are bad the sound may be muffled, or branches and other small animals can disturb it too, waking you unnecessarily. GET YOUR BACK COVERED When choosing a location for your camp, think carefully about where you set up so you’ve got additional cover.

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“it’s vital you get advance notice they’re coming…”

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018 cont. Try to find a way to tuck your tent and your camp out of sight, so anyone looking for things to loot doesn't immediately see your setup. Just moving your tent back from a clearing, or inside a line of trees can break up the outline and make it much harder to spot. The more concealed you are from any prying eyes, the better. GET A FIRE Depending on what particular threat you're expecting, a fire at night can work two ways. For animals like bears and wolves, the light can help to keep them at bay. For people, it's an attractant, and the glow from a fire can be seen for miles on a clear night. Consider what it is you're most concerned about, and act accordingly. For me, where I usually camp bears are a much bigger potential threat than a random hiker intending me harm, so I'm quite comfortable to build a big, warm fire. GET RID OF YOUR FOOD If you're wanting a peaceful night's sleep, the last thing you want is to have food in your camp, especially in bear country. Bears can smell bacon grease up to 3 miles away, and you can bet they'll some snuffling about looking for the source. Do all of your cooking and eating at least a few hundred yards from your camp, and if you've got any food items, string them up so they're out of reach. A hungry bear is not how you want to be woken in camp at 3am. GET A WARNING LIGHT Any attack you face is most likely to come at night, and one of the best ways you can gain the upper edge in a confrontation is light. If you've opted for no fire because of security, a flashing strobe light can be disorientating to an intruder, while giving you the ability to see what's happening. A tactical flashlight is a key piece of gear every survivalist should have in their kit. Simple, lightweight, and gives you the upper hand should you get confronted at night.

GET TRAIL CAMERAS If you're worried about who may be sulking around your property, investing in trail cameras is a smart move. Rugged and waterproof, you can set these up and leave them for weeks at a time (or longer, depending on your model and the memory card size), to then come back and see what's triggered each photo or video. The only thing you need to watch out for is these getting stolen.

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As anyone with ill intent will probably just take your camera too, so take care to camouflage these properly. I love camping, but there's a few things to be careful of when you're out in the woods, especially if you're on your own in a remote area. Keep these tips in mind, and ensure you're never surprised in your camp by an unwelcome visitor.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018

DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW TO RATION YOUR SUPPLIES?

No matter how much you plan, the risk is always there. You don't have enough food to go around. Eventually it will run out, because you've got extra mouths to feed, or a crisis that has gone on for far too long. Even now, I am still concerned that I've only got about a years' worth of food. There's always something. A bad storm could ruin my crops. A disease could kill off my livestock. People could raid my stores and take everything I've prepared. When food starts getting scarce, the best way to make your supplies last is to ration. WHO GETS FIRST DIBS? This is a tough question when ever yone's stomach is growling. Especially if you've got kids, as many a parent would rather starve than see their child wilt away from hunger. Just remember. You also need strength if you're able to continue hunting, foraging and protecting your family. I can't tell you what's right or wrong, and who "should" get food first, especially if you've got elderly parents or disabled members in your group who are unable to provide. T hese hard-hitting questions are the ones to bring up now with your survival group, so you're all clear when the SHTF. For me, we've got the following hierarchy in our group: - Hunters get first dibs, they need the energy to keep supplying food. - Physical laborers second, they need the energy to keep camp up to par. - Pregnant women get third, they need the energy to actually grow a baby. - Our kids next, but we agreed we'd probably share our rations anyway. - The elderly, or those unable to help with camp duties are here. Ideally, we'd have a minimum number of calories we could allocate to everyone so no one is going hungry, like a base of 1,000 per day, and then a surplus we could use to give a little extra to those putting out the most energy.

Rationing is tough, and we've got so many plans and contingencies we sincerely hope it never comes to a "Lord of the Flies" battle for survival, but knowing who is where on the totem pole is a good start to planning your rations. HOW TO RATION YOUR FOOD First, you've got to divvy up your supply. Know how much of everything you've got, and split it out into daily allocations per meal. It's pretty easy if you're looking at a handful of protein bars in your bug out bag, as you can see that 8 bars, with one for breakfast and dinner will only get you 4 days. If you're eating four a day, you're going to run out of food in two. Use this logic to stretch your food supplies out as long as possible, while ensuring you're getting some calories, every day. If you've got a bigger stockpile, this logic still applies, though you may need spreadsheets or a checklist to work it all out. Good news is it's not that hard, just write down what you've got, work out what you need to allocate per person in a day, then see how many days you've got. HOW TO SAVOR YOUR MEALS Let me be the first to say, rationing sucks. I'm a big guy, with a healthy appetite, and I've been known to demolish a buffet or two in my time. But I've also done training exercises on strict rations, so I know what to expect, and how far I can push my body with limited supplies of food and water. It's much further than you think, but there is a limit. You will eventually burn out.

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What I found was the best way to savor what little food I had was to: 1. Be strict and not eat my food at once. Even a couple of bites of a protein bar will kick your metabolism into gear, and give you a slight energy boost. Restrict all temptation to "eat everything all at once." It ensures no one in your group can steal your supplies, but after a day or two without any food, you'll wish you saved some. 2. The smaller bites you can take, the better. As a fast eater, I do what my wife likes to call "inhaling" when I'm hungry and needing food. When you're on rations this is the opposite of what you want. The smaller bites you take the better. It tricks your brain into thinking you're eating more than you are, especially if you take the time to chew. Chew the little food you have into oblivion, as it'll make it easier to digest, and you get the nutrients faster. 3. Drink plenty of water. Of course, when water needs to be rationed too this could be tricky, but water can reduce hunger pangs, while also ensuring proper digestion of your food. Drink a big glass of water 5-10 minutes before starting to eat, and you'll feel much "fuller" once you're done. I sincerely hope I never have to put my survival group through a series of strict rations. It sucks, and there's nothing fun about being surrounded by a group of hungry, irritable survivors. But should we get into a worst-possiblecase scenario, knowing the basics about rationing our supplies could keep us alive and well for far longer.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018 • Ruining your credit score until you've spent weeks undoing the damage. • Wasting your time on calls with banks and service providers to solve it. Heck, a smart thief could even take the stolen information, and use it to create a dummy credit card to run up charges. Effectively bypassing all of the safeguards that the credit card companies have put in place with onetime authentications. Or they could do it even easier if they fence your card to any unscrupulous merchants willing to accept your stolen cards. Even if it only works once, a $500+ transaction would kill my finances until it was all sorted out. And that's a risk I'm not willing to take. Especially as it's so easy to do.

THE DANGERS OF RFID IDENTITY THEFT I'm a big fan of technology. It's what enables me to create these posts and share my experiences and adventures in survival with you. But with new technology comes risks, and there are a handful of innovations you need to be careful of. RFID chips are one of them. Radio-Frequency Identification, otherwise known as RFID, is a microchip that's found in most of the new credit cards, debit cards, and even your passport these days. But that's not the scary part. The same technology that allows you to "tap and pay" with your credit card when you're buying groceries can be harnessed by thieves to steal your data, using a technique known as RFID skimming. A powerful enough device can even capture this data from many feet away, as once the data is requested the microchips emit a radio signal that just needs to be received. You know the small device you can install on your windshield to automatically pay the tolls you drive through? That uses the same RFID technology. And it works. Now here's the big dilemma. Security experts all over the world are saying RFID isn't a problem. That the dangers are all in our heads. Why would thieves risk themselves on camera in a crowded place, like a shopping mall, hoping to scan just a handful of people's data?

In fact, many credit card providers have even updated their technology so each card no longer sends an unencrypted card number, but a one-use code to confirm a transaction. The risk is limited, they say. One expert even claimed it was so easy to buy stolen credit card data on the dark web, why would any thief go to the trouble? Wouldn't they choose the "most efficient" option? Personally, I'm not convinced. The fact that someone intending me ill, can target my wallet with a RFID reader and get enough of my personal information to conduct identity theft, and rack up one big purchase on my credit card is scary. It'll involve visits to the police station to clear up, god knows how much time spent on the phone to my bank, and all of which is just a major hassle. Because what all these experts tell you is a bit narrow minded. Sure, a thief may just get your credit card number and expiry date from your credit card. But if they happen to know your address because they've been actively targeting you, or scrape other data from your license or passport, things start spiraling towards identity theft really fast.

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Buying a RFID scanner will set you back under a hundred bucks. That all it takes for a thief to start using this technology to steal your information, and potentially cause major issues in your life. It's scary it's so affordable, and a quick online search shows just how readily available they are. I'm not willing to be a victim. Even if there's only a small chance this could happen to me, choosing to remain ignorant of the danger isn't the way I live my life. Being a survivalist is about embracing the risks, and putting plans, preparations and strategies in place to ensure I'm never caught out. • There's a small chance I'll become victim of a home invasion, but you can bet I've armed myself and my family knows what to do, just in case. • There's a small chance I'll need the 8+ months of stockpiled food and water at some point over the next few years, but my family won't go without, just in case. • There's a small chance my family will need to leave our home to into our bug out location in the mountains, but we've got it set up, just in case. If there's even a small chance I could be targeted and have my information stolen from a thief with an RFID scanner, it's not in me to not to take the steps to prepare. Especially as it's rather easy to defend against. All you need is a RFID blocking wallet. That's when you'll have real peace of mind, and can walk through a crowded place knowing your cards and personal information is completely secure.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018

SANITIZING CONTAINERS FOR LONG-TERM WATER STORAGE A ready supply of water is vital for anyone planning ahead for a crisis. The CDC recommends a minimum of a half-gallon, per person, per day, but I'd aim for three or four times this amount. The trouble comes, because you can't keep your water in just anything. Even though water will remain potable for pretty much forever, you need to store it in the right conditions, in the right container, to ensure it remains usable and doesn't become a breeding ground for harmful microbes and bacteria. WHAT SHOULD I BE USING? I want to make this very clear. Just because you've got an ample supply of old milk bottles and other containers around your home, these can pose a serious threat to your water supply. Because not all containers are certified and graded for food use. The risk, is your water slowly leeches dangerous compounds and chemicals from the container it's held in, which poses a massive health concern if you drink it. In my opinion, it's just not worth it. The other big question that comes up is glass. Being on a homestead we try to be as "environmentally responsible" as possible and we've transitioned much of our kitchen supplies and our tupperware into glass alternatives.

“you can never have enough water in a crisis…”

But I wouldn't recommend glass for long-term storage. Once you start getting into larger bottles it's just too heavy, and it's also incredibly fragile. Should you get hit with an earthquake (or any other ground-shaking event), it'd be frustrating to see your entire water supply flowing your basement, in amongst a million shards of glass. HOW TO CLEAN A WATER CONTAINER? Once you've found a ready supply of water containers, you need to clean them properly before putting any water in. There could be residue from manufacturing (if they're brand new), or contaminants inside from whatever they were holding before. But before we get into this I want to make this point crystal clear. Never, ever, use a container for water storage if it's held harmful chemicals in it before. You simply cannot clean these enough to be 100 percent safe, and it's just not worth it. Right, on to the cleaning. The first step is a normal wash, with dishwashing detergent and water. Your goal is to clean off any dust, dirt, or debris that may be inside, giving it a good scrub and rinsing multiple times to ensure there's no soap left inside once you're done. The next step is bleach. This is to kill any bacteria that may have gotten inside (despite your cleaning), you just need to pick up a bottle of unscented, liquid bleach. Dilute it down to about 1 teaspoon of bleach to a quart of water, and give it a good mix. Fill a little in each container, and give it a good shake so the bleach mixture coats the inside of your container. About 20 to 30 seconds of shaking should do it, then drain it out. Finally, position your cleaned water containers upside down (so they can drain), and let them drip dry for at least 24 hours before you refill with water. If you're in a rush, you could also wash the bleach out with a couple of rounds of rinsing, before you refill, but it's better if you plan ahead and can let your containers air dry properly. WHERE DO I STORE ALL OF MY WATER? This is where things get challenging. Keeping your water in potable condition requires a little foresight.

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You need a nice even temperature, preferably somewhere that doesn't freeze so you don't risk rupturing the containers. It's also important that you store your water well away from any possible contaminants, on a raised set of shelves so your stores aren't in direct contact with the ground. Here's what I do. 1. Once the containers are filled, they go onto a series of heavy-duty shelves I built in the basement. You've got to keep them out of direct sunlight, as the warm rays from the sun can trigger the breeding of antimony and bisphenol A (BPA). Studies on the dangers of BPA remain inconclusive at this point, but I'd rather not risk it. 2. Once the containers are on the shelves, I update the labels. I bought a ton of waterproof label stickers, and I write two things on here. The first is "DRINKING QUALITY" so I know clearly which is which, and to never use these containers for anything else, the second is the date they went on the shelf, so I know when to clean them. Which brings us to the purge. Every 6 to 8 months, I do a full stock take of all the supplies, and that includes a refresh of all our drinking water. Each of the containers gets pulled out of the basement, and taken upstairs on a nice sunny day. I pour all of the stored water onto the garden. Reclean each of the containers, let them dry, and refill and put it back in storage. It only takes a couple of hours over a weekend, but it’s better safe than sorry. With this system, I've got enough pure drinking water separated out to last me and my family about 4 months. That's completely pure, and a separate set of stores to the rainwater tanks we have, the stream and lake on my property, and the well we had drilled to tap into the underground supply. You can never have enough water in a crisis.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018

SHOULD YOU USE A SHIPPING CONTAINER IN YOUR SHTF PLANS? I'm a big fan of shipping containers. They're sturdy, available second-hand for just a few thousand dollars, and are much easier solution for shelter than anything else on the market. It's like a dream for many homesteaders, and I've got more names than I can count on my list of friends who use shipping containers in and around their properties. They're just that good. On our homestead we’ve currently got two. Here's what you can use a shipping container for: LIVE IN A CONTAINER

SHIPPING

After buying the land for our homestead, we had access to a water line, and that was it. First priority was building an outhouse and connecting the sewage tanks, and we spent the next few months of summer working on our permanent home. In the meantime, we lived in two shipping containers.

One was our home, which functioned exactly as you imagine, a giant metal tent. The other we used to store our machinery, building equipment and anything that could potentially be stolen when we weren't on the property. But that's not the best part. We bought and had the containers delivered within 3 days, and for almost zero effort. We didn't have to do anything time consuming or permanent to get a roof over our heads. Though they needed a clean to start with. STORE THINGS IN A SHIPPING CONTAINER Once we had our homestead built, we used a forklift on my tractor to move the empty containers into their now permanent locationS. One became a storage center for our stockpile, holding the majority of our long-term food stores. The other my workshop, complete with a workbench, and setup so I've got a ready spot to work on the never-ending list of "projects" that come with owning a homestead.

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It's nice having a little separation from our home for this, because you can leave things half-done or as a work-inprogress without creating a massive mess in your garage or living spaces. Despite the fact we've now got a much bigger shed built, I still prefer my workshop as we insulated it better so it stays much cooler than the shed in summer.

“you can’t simply ‘bury’ a shipping container…”

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018 CHOOSING THE RIGHT SHIPPING CONTAINER Before investing in a shipping container, there's a few key points to know. 1. Do your research to see if you need any special permits to have shipping containers on your property long-term. If you're living in a rural area you're probably fine, but best to double check, some cities do have regulations and restrictions on these. I'd hate for you to buy one and find out it's not allowed as a permanent fixture on your property. 2. There are two different heights. Standard is 8 foot 6 inches tall, while High Cube containers are 9 foot 6 inches tall. Of course, the High Cube containers are slightly more expensive, but if you want the additional headroom it's a smart buy. Both of our containers are High Cubes. 3. There are two different lengths. Actually, there's many different lengths you may come across, but generally, you're going to be looking at shipping containers which are 20 foot long, or 40 foot long. Choose the length that's right for your needs. Both of ours are 20 foot containers, a bit small yes, but we wanted the ability to move them ourselves. 4. There are different grades of quality. "A" is the best, as these containers have only been used a handful of times and will usually come with a fresh coat of paint. "B" is pretty good too, but will have some dents and perhaps minor rusting. "C" is the lowest grade, and you can expect these will leak while also looking remarkably old. My advice is to go with "A".

GROW THINGS IN A SHIPPING CONTAINER This is especially important if you live in an area with a rough winter. You still need the ability to "grow" your food supply, and a shipping container provides the perfect structure for an indoor hydroponics setup. All you need to do is install the plumbing and light/ heat lamps and you're good to grow. We've built an outdoor greenhouse on our property so haven't gone through with this one quite yet, but one of my plans for 2019 is to get an indoor grow lab setup. It's just one more step to becoming totally self-sufficient on our homestead, while also keeping our crops under stable conditions, no matter what is going on outside. Now of course, shipping containers aren't without their downsides.

Like their strength. Shipping containers are designed to withstand tremendous amounts of weight, at each of their corners. Along the rest of the structure, not so much. There's a big trend of DIY survivalists who want to bury shipping containers as their underground shelters. Whilst a good idea if you take the proper precautions and you heavily reinforce the sides, you can't simply "bury" a container and expect it to remain safe. The walls and roof of the container will buckle, and may give way under the weight of the earth. Or actually moving them around. Once your shipping container is delivered, it can be quite cumbersome to move to a new location without the proper equipment.

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It took my biggest tractor, fitted with forklift forks, and secure with heavy chains to ensure it was safe to lift and move the empty containers when I wanted to relocate these. I could have never done that with a full container, or without seriously heavy equipment. Make sure you know where your shipping container will sit, and get it delivered there so you don't have to move it yourself. As a piece in the puzzle of our SHTF plans, shipping containers are a god send. They helped us stay warm and dry as we built our homestead, and now they give us extra rooms that are secure, lockable, and the perfect place to store our additional supplies. Every survivalist should be using shipping containers.

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018

SMART LESSONS FROM THE TRAIL TO APPLY TO YOUR BUG OUT Getting your bug out bag together is just the first step.

One little rip, and the whole sheet will tear in two.

You've jammed it full of everything you think you need over the next 72 hours, and you're all set to make the hike to your bug out location. There's just one problem. One critical point many survivalists fail to remember.

Building a decent lean to can take hours, time you simply haven't got. At the bare minimum, buy a tarp, and have the cordage you need to string it up properly.

Will you actually be able to hike for three days? With all the gear you've packed? I've been an avid outdoors fan since before I even knew about survival. Spending my nights at secluded locations up and down the coast, pretty much anywhere interesting I could go explore on a weekend, you can bet I've been there for a night or two. As I got older, I got more and more into hiking, and I've got to say it's one of my favorite hobbies. With time, I've learnt what works when it comes to bugging out. And I'd like to share a few tips from the trail for your bug out. YOU NEED A DECENT SHELTER Forget the "emergency blanket" you've thrown in. It may last one night, but that's about all you're going to get, and they don't hold up well in bad conditions, like a storm.

YOU NEED TO STAY CLEAN On a 72-hour hike, a normal person has a lot of bodily movements. You're going to need to eat three to five times a day to keep your energy levels up, which is 15 (or more) times you risk contaminating yourself with unclean hands. Not to mention your water bottle each time you drink. In addition to the dirt and grime, you'll be urinating and pooping too. Without proper sanitation, you will get sick. YOU NEED TO CARRY THE WEIGHT No matter how else you describe it, every bit of gear that's jammed into your bug out bag is hanging from your back. You need to carry it. The most advanced backpacks with hip support can only do so much. The only thing that matters is how much you're carrying. With time, and a constant strain on your shoulders, knees, and every other part of your body holding the weight, you will not make it.

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YOU NEED TO KEEP MOVING Getting yourself and your group moving when you're hiking is a challenge in itself. It feels like you're constantly stopping and starting, and it takes so much effort to continue on the trail. One of the best ways to fix this is to keep everything you need in close reach. Your water bottle on your belt. Your snacks in an easy to reach pocket. Set yourself up so you can walk at least an hour or two before you need to "deload" and take a rest.

“I’ve learnt what works when it comes to bugging out…”

VIP SURVIVAL ACADEMY - NOVEMBER 2018 cont. YOU NEED SPACE IN YOUR BAG One of the ways I keep my pack light is to forage as I go, perhaps using a rest stop to fish for 15 minutes, or gathering a handful of tinder when I see a dry patch. But I couldn't do this if my backpack was fit to burst. You need space in your bag to fit in the different bits of food and supplies nature has on offer, so don't pack it full. YOU CAN’T RELY ON FIRE ALONE We all dream of having a roaring fire overnight. It's usually the first thing I setup in camp, but it's not always a smart idea. In a disaster, fire can be a beacon lighting up the sky to draw people to your camp. Plus, you've got to stoke it and keep it fed all night if you want to stay warm. Often, it's far more practical to use a bedroll and a sleeping bag. You'll sleep better, while staying warm.

YOUR FOOD SMELLS TOO DAMN GOOD

YOU’VE NOT GOT ENOUGH FOOD

I'm a big fan of eating, and there's nothing better than a hot meal to keep your energy levels up while you're hiking to your bug out location. But it smells. And that brings bears, racoons, squirrels and a whole host of critters to check out what smells so damn good. My advice is to not eat anywhere near your camp, and do all your cooking and prep at least 200 years away.

When you start weighing everything that goes into your pack, your food supplies are going to take up the lion's share of it all. It can be an easy way to save a few kilos by taking less food, and thinking you'll "hunt" on the way to your bug out. Let me tell you now. That's a silly way to do it.

YOU’VE FORGOTTEN ABOUT THE BUGS Until you've been swarmed by a constant stream of insects, it's impossible to actually get you to understand just how bad it can get in the wild. You need bug spray of course, but this isn't often enough. It's probably only really effective against mosquitoes, and there are hundreds of other little biters out there. Plus, it washes off as soon as you start sweating. Find ways to stop your skin being exposed. Tucking your pants into your socks and a scarf over your head may look funny, but it's better than being bitten to death. .

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You don't have time to spare, and you need to refuel with decent meals to stay on your feet. Especially when you're hiking a significant distance. Pack the food you need. No exceptions. Bugging out is one aspect of survival too many "experts" get wrong. They put too much thought into the theory, and forget the most practical aspects of actually hiking through the wilderness for 3 days with a backpack full of gear. My advice is to be smart. Learn from the people who actually do this for fun (i.e. all the hikers) and make sure you actually make it to your final destination.

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