Pattern Making Techniques

Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

PATTERNMAKING TOOLS To work efficiently, the patternmaker must have the proper tools and supplies. To communicate effectively in the workroom and to minimize errors due to misunderstanding, the patternmaker should know and understand terminology. This chapter introduces tools, supplies, and definitions of terms used in industry. The professional patternmaker arrives on the job with all tools required for patternmaking. Each tool should be marked with an identity symbol and transported in a carrying case. Tools may be purchased from apparel supply houses, art stores, department stores, and yardage stores. Specialized tools, such as a rabbit punch used to punch pattern holes for hanger hooks, are generally supplied by the manufacturer 1. Straight pins: ___ Dressmaker silk #17 for draping and fittings. 2. Straight pin holder: ___ Pincushion, or magnetic holder for wrist or table. 3. Scissors: ___ Paper scissors. ___ Fabric scissors. 4. Pencils and pens: ___ Mechanical pencil and sharpener. (Use #4-H lead for pattern work.) ___ Red and blue colored pencils to identify pattern changes. Black, green, red, and blue felt-tip pens for pattern information.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping 5. Rulers: ___ Flex general rule—1/2 × 12-inch (very accurate). ___ 36-inch ruler. ___ 18 × 2-inch plastic rule (flexible for measuring curves). ___ Tailor’s square—24 × 14-inch metal ruler with two arms forming a 90° angle that measures, rules, and squares simultaneously. ___ Triangle with measurements to square lines.

6. Curve rules: ___ French curve, Deitzgen #17 is one of several curves used for shaping armhole and neckline. ___ Sleigh curve, shapes necklines, armholes and other curves, pockets, collars, and cuffs. ___ Hip curve rule to shape hipline, hem, lapels. ___ Vary form curve to blend and shape armhole, neckline.

7. Hanger hooks or ringers: ___ To hold patterns together while hanging on rods. Arun Kadve (11500UMSCFD1600001)

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping 8. Push pins: ___ For pattern manipulation and transferring muslin patterns to paper.

9. Stapler and remover: ___ Prevents pattern slippage when Cutting several ply’s of paper together. 10. Magic mend scotch tape (Transparence tape): ___ To mend pattern work. 11. Black twill tape: ___ Placement of style lines on form and to hold ease in place. 12. Notcher: ___ Cuts a 1/4 × 1/16-inch opening at the pattern’s edge to indicate seam allowance, center lines, and ease notches and to identify front and back of patterns. 13. Tracing wheels: ___ Pointed wheel transfers pattern shapes to paper. ___ Blunted wheel is used with carbon paper to transfer pattern shapes to muslin.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping 14. Awl: ___ Pierces 1/8-inch hole in the pattern to indicate the ending of darts, pocket, trim, and buttonhole placements. 15. Metal weights (several): ___ Hold patterns in place for tracing and marking. 16. Measuring tape—60 inches long: ___ Metal-tipped, linen or plastic to measure the form. Metric is on the other side. ___ Metal tape 1/4 inch wide inside a dispenser. It is convenient, flexible, and very accurate. 17. Tailor’s chalk: ___ Clay, chalk, chalk wheel, or chalk marking pencils in black and white. Use for marking adjusted seams and style lines.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

BASIC BODICE BLOCK Measurement:   

Bust girth (circumference) Neck to waist (CB NK to CB W) Waist girth (circumference) Shoulder length

- 92 Centimetre’s - 43 cm. - 67 cm. - 12.5 cm.

  

Half across back Neck size Sleeve length

-17.5 cm. -38 cm. -56 cm.

Drafting method:Square across and down from point 0.           

1 Out from o 2 Down from o 3 Down from 2 5 Down from 2

= Half of the bust girth + 3 cm. Square down. = Back neck depth 2 cm. Square out. = Neck to waist. Square out to point 4 = Armhole depth ¼ of the bust girth. Square out to point 6. Point 7 is the midpoint of point 5 to point 6 8 Out from 7 = 5 mm. all sizes. Square up to point 9 and down to point 10. Point 11 is the midpoint of point 2 and point 5. Square out. 12 Out from 11 = Half across back. Square up to point 13 and down to point 14. 15 Out from 6 = Equal to point 5 to 14 plus (+) 5mm. Square up to point 16. 17 Out from 2 = Half back neck width, 1/5 of neck size minus (-) 5 mm all sizes. Square Up to point 18. Join the point 18 and point 2 with a French curve. 19 Out from 1 = Half front neck width, 1/5 of neck size minus (-) 5 mm all sizes. Square Down. 20 Down from 1 = Front neck depth (Drop), 1/5 of neck size Plus (+) 5 mm all sizes. Square out to point 21. Join the point 21 and point 1 with a slant line 22 Up from 21 = 3.5 cm approximately (on 21 to 1 slant line). Join the point 19, 22 and point 20 with a French curve.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping  23 Out from 19 = Bust dart 1/16 of the bust girth. Point 24 is the midpoint of point 6 to point 15.  25 Out from 24 = 1 cm all sizes. Square down to point 26 (on waist line) extended line. Join the point 19 and point 25 with slant line Join the point 23 and point 25 with aslant line  27 Down from 9 = Shoulder slope 1/12 of the bust girth minus 3 mm. all sizes. Join the point 18 and 27 with slant line. Join the point 18 and 23 with slant line.  28 Out from 18 = Back shoulder length.  29 Out from 13 = Front shoulder length. Draw an extended slant line at 45⁰angle from point 14 and 15.  30 Up from 14 = 3 cm approximately.  31 Up from 15 = 2.5 cm approximately.  32 Up from 15 = Front pitch point, 6 cm for all sizes. Join the point 28 and 12 with French curve. Join the point 12, 30 and 8 with French curve. Join the point 27 and 32 with French curve. Join the point 32, 31 and 7 with French curve. Point 33 is the midpoint of point 5 and point 14. Square down to point 34 (on waist line) extended line.  35 Down from 25 = 1.5 cm all sizes.  36 Down from 35 = 1.5 cm all sizes.

Waist dart intake calculation:A. Half of the bust girth +3 cm ease = 92/2 + 3 = 49 B. Half of the waist girth + 1 cm ease = 33.5 + 1 = 34.5 A – B = 49 – 34.5 = 14.5 Divide this amount into 3 parts 5.5 + 5 + 4 Front waist Back waist Side waist Arun Kadve (11500UMSCFD1600001)

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping        

37 out from 26 39 out from 10 41 out from 34 43 down from 26 38 out from 26 40 out from 10 42 out from 34 44 down from 34

= 2.75 cm (2.7) = 2 cm = 2.5 cm = 1.3 cm approx. = 2.75 cm (2.7) = 2 cm = 2.5 cm = 1 cm approx.

Join the point 36 and 37 with extended slant line. Join the point 36 and 38 with extended slant line. Join the point 8 and 39 with slant line. Join the point 8 and 40 with slant line. Join the point 33 and 41 with extended slant line. Join the point 4 and 43 with a pattern master. Join the point 39 and 43 with a pattern master. Join the point 40 and 44 with a pattern master. Join the point 3 and 44 with a pattern master.

Basic Bodice Block Drafting

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Front ready pattern:Trace along the points 19, 22, 20, 6, 4, 43, 39, 8, 7, 31, 32, 29, 23 and till point 19 including bust & waist dart then cut.

Back ready pattern:Trace along the points 18, 2, 11, 5, 3, 44, 40, 8, 30, 12, 28 and till point 18 including waist dart then cut

Neck facing pattern:Close Bust dart of front pattern. Trace front and back pattern with neckline, shoulder and center line Draw parallel lines with neckline with 2 cm width (facing width) for both pattern front and back. trace facing on paper and cut.

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Waist facing pattern:Close waist dart of front and back pattern Trace front and back pattern with waistline, side and center line Draw parallel line with neckline with 4 cm width (facing width)for both pattern front and back Trace facing on paper and cut.

Armhole facing pattern:Trace front and back pattern with armhole, side and shoulder seam. Draw parallel line with armhole with 2 cm width (facing width) for both pattern front and back trace facing on paper and cut.

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Front production pattern:Add 1 centimeter seam allowance on ready pattern (Shoulder, waist and Side seam). Add 0.5 centimeter seam allowance on ready pattern (Neckline).

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Back Production pattern:Add 1 centimeter seam allowance on ready pattern (Shoulder, waist and side seam Button and button hole extension 2 cm.(Button radios + 1 cm)

Neck, Armhole & Waist Facing Production pattern:Add seam allowance on all facing as per body pattern.

Neck facing final pattern

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Waist facing final pattern

Armhole facing final pattern

Note:- After preparation of all production patterns - Mark grain line, fold line, Notches, drill marks, Cut quantity, style number and other special information (Pocket, embroidery placement etc.) if required

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sleeve

Introduction:Sleeves have been used as a device for changing the silhouette of garments throughout the history of fashion. In the 1880s, the dominant silhouette was a leg-of-mutton sleeve—a sleeve that puffs out from the shoulder with the lower section tapered toward the wrist. For the next 10 years, the sleeve puff varied from slim to voluminous and billowy. In the 1920s, a sleeve with a darted or an extended cap became popular. In the 1940s, the sleeve was smooth and included padded shoulders ranging from square and tailored to oversized exaggeration. There was a return to a natural shoulder with minimal padding in the 1950s. This gave tailored garments an even look along the shoulder seam. Since then, these important sleeve silhouettes have appeared and disappeared and will probably reappear again. There are two major classifications of sleeves: the set-in sleeve cut separately and stitched into the armhole of the bodice and the sleeve combined with part or all of bodice.  Set-in Sleeve:- Set-in sleeves can be designed to fit the armhole smoothly or with gathers. They can be designed fitted or with exaggerated fullness and can be cut to any length. The hemline of the sleeve can be finished in a number of ways. Example of set-in-sleeves: Cap sleeve, Puff sleeve, circular sleeve, Bell sleeve, petal sleeve, lantern sleeve, leg-of-mutton sleeve, wedding sleeve etc.  Combined Sleeve:- The sleeve and top of any garment (blouse, dress, jacket, or coat) can be combined in a variety of ways. Example combined sleeves: Kimono sleeve, Dolman sleeve, Raglan sleeve etc.

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Basic Sleeve Introduction:The basic sleeve is a mounted sleeve stitched to the basic bodice armhole. A sleeve is to fit an arm, which is one of the most efficient and mobile parts of the human anatomy. The arm functions primarily in a forward motion but is capable of moving in every direction. This flexibility should be considered when testing the fit and comfort of the sleeve. The center grain of a well-fitted sleeve should align with or be slightly forward of the side seam of models having a perfect stance. The arms of models with stooped shoulders tend to hang too far forward from the side seams. The arms of models with an upright stance tend to hang too far to the back from the side seams. In either case, the sleeve should align with the position of the relaxed arm without regard to alignment with the side seam.

Sleeve Terminology Grain line:- Straight grain of the sleeve, which is the center of the sleeve from top of cap to wrist level. Biceps level:- Widest part of the sleeve dividing cap from the lower sleeve. Sleeve cap:- Curved top of the sleeve above biceps line. Cap height:- Distance from biceps to the top at the grain line. Elbow level:- Placed at the articulation point of the arm, and the location of the elbow dart. Wrist level:- Entry for the hand Notches :- A notch at the top of the sleeve cap divides cap ease between front and back sleeve and armhole of the bodice. One notch identifies the front sleeve, and two notches identify the back sleeve. Ease begins and ends at the front and back notches. Cap ease:- Ranging from 3 cm. to 4 cm. (depending on size) between front and back notches.

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Measurement: 

Armscye (Armhole round) Sleeve length

- 92 Centimeters - 56 cm.

 

Biceps measurement- _____ (Measure from Basic Bodice) Cap height - _____

Drafting method:Draw a line on paper, mark and label.  0 To 1  0 To 2 for Biceps line  2 To 3 Elbow line  0 To 4

 2 To 4  0 To 5  2 To 5  1 To 6  1 To 7

= Sleeve length. Square across both ways for wrist line = Cap height, 1/3 of Armscye minus ( - ) 1 cm. Square across both ways = half of point 1 to point 2 minus ( - ) 2 cm. Square across both ways for = Half of armhole round plus ( + ) 0.5 to 1 cm for cap ease. Place rule on point 0 and pivot until the measure touches biceps line. Join point 0 and 4 with slant line OR = Half of biceps measurement. Join point 0 and 4 with slant line = Equal to point 0 to 4. Join point 0 and 5 with slant line OR = Equal to point 2 to 4. Join point 0 and 5 with slant line = Equal to point 2 to 4 minus ( - ) 5 cm. = Equal to point 1 to 6. Join points 4 and 6 with slant line mark point 8 on elbow line Join points 5 and 7 with slant line mark point 9 on elbow line Divide point 0 to 5 into equal four parts and mark 10, 11 & 12.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping Divide point 0 to 4 into equal four parts and mark 13, 14 & 15. Mark square lines from the point 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 & 15.

Front cap line: 10 To 16  11 To 17  12 To 18

= 1.5 cm. (App.) = 0.5 cm. (App.) = 1 cm. (App.) Join point 0, 16 and 17 with French curve. Extend this line for Blending cap line Join point 5 and 18 with French curve touching through Blending line

Back cap line: 13 To 19  14 To 20  15 To 21

= 2 cm. (App.) = 1.5 cm. (App.) = 0.7 cm. (App.) Join point 0, 19 and 20 with French curve. Extend this line for Blending cap line Join point 4 and 21 with French curve touching through Blending line

Basic Sleeve Drafting

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Elbow dart construction: 8 To 22  22 To 24  23 To 24  7 To 25  24 To 26  26 To 27

= 0.7 cm. Join point 4 and 22 with slant line. Point 23 is the midpoint of 3 to 22 = 2.5 cm. = 23 to 22. Join point 23 and 24 with slant line = 2 cm. Join point 24 and 25 with an extended slant line. = Equal to point 9 to 7. = (On wrist line) Equal to point 6 to 7. Join point 27,8 and 4 with a slight curve.

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Ready pattern without elbow dart:-

Ready pattern with elbow dart:-

Trace along the points 0, 16, 17, 18, 5, 9, 7, 1, 6, 8, 4, 21, 20, 19 and till point 0

Trace along the points 0, 16, 17, 18, 5, 9, 27, 26, 24 23, 22, 4, 21, 20, 19 and till point 0

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Final (production) pattern:Add 1 centimeter seam allowance on ready pattern (Cap, Inseam and Hemline). Hemline may be self fold with 5 centimeter hem height.

Note:After preparation production patterns - Mark grain line, Notches, drill marks, Cut quantity, Size and style number etc. Arun Kadve (11500UMSCFD1600001)

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BASIC SKIRT BLOCK Measurement:  

Skirt length Waist girth Placket opening

- 55 Centimetre’s - 68 Cm. (Include 1 cm waist ease) - 14 Cm

 

Waist to hip (Hip depth) Hip circumference

- 21 Cm. - 94 Cm.

Drafting method:Square across and down from point 0.     

1 Out from 0 2 Down from 0 4 Down from 0 6 Out from 4

= Half of the Hip measurement + 1.5 cm. Square down. = Skirt length. Square out to point 3. = Hip depth. Square out to point 5. = ¼ Of hip measurement + 1.5 cm. Square up to point 7 and down to point 8.

Back: 9 Out from 0

= ¼ Of waist measurement + 5 cm. Square up.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping  10 Up From 9

= 1 cm. Join point 0 and 10 with slant line, join point 6 to 10 with broken line. Divide 0 to 10 into equal three parts and mark 11 and 12 Square down from both points 11 and 12  13 Down from 11 = 14 Cm.  14 Down from 12 = 12.5 Cm. Construct two darts from point 11 &12 with 2.5 cm width. Join point 10 and point 6 with 0.5 cm. Outwards curve.

Front: 15 Out from 1  16 Up From 15

= ¼ Of waist measurement + 2.5 cm. Square up. = 1 cm. Join point 16 and 1 with slant line, join point 6 to 16 with broken line.  17 Out from 16 = 1/3 of point 16 to point 1 measurement. Square down from points 11.  18 Down from 17 = 10 Cm. Construct a dart from point 17 with 2.5 cm width. Join point 16 and point 6 with 0.5 cm. Outwards curve.

Basic Skirt Drafting

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Front ready pattern:Trace along the points 1, 5, 3, 8, 6, 16. 7 and till point 1 including waist dart then cut.

Back ready pattern:Trace along the points 0, 4, 2, 8, 6, 10, 12, 11 and till point 1 including waist dart then cut.

Front production pattern:Add 1 centimeter seam allowance on ready pattern (Waist and side seam). Add 5 + 1 centimeter seam allowance for bottom fold and edge finish.

Back Production pattern:Add 1 centimeter seam allowance on ready pattern (Waist and side seam) Add 5 + 1 centimeter seam allowance for bottom fold and edge finish.

Note:- After preparation of all production patterns - Mark grain line, fold line, Notches, drill marks, Cut quantity, style number and other special information (Pocket, embroidery placement etc.) if required

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Waist Band: 0-1  1-2  0-3

= Waist measurement. = Extension width (3 Cm) = Waist Band height. Square out to 4 & 5. Point 6 is the midpoint of 0 – 1. Square down to 7(Mark for side Seam-Right) Point 8 is the midpoint of 0 – 6. Square down to 9 (Mark for Centre front) Point 10 is the midpoint of 6 – 1. Square down to 11(Mark for Centre back)

Waist Band Final Pattern:One piece waist band Align 0 - 2 with fold and trace Add 1 cm seam allowance on ready pattern @ sides, waist seam Mark notches, Grain line

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Two piece waist band Trace Waist band ready pattern on paper Add 1 cm seam allowance on ready pattern @ Top, Bottom & sides. Mark notches, Grain line

Fly facing:Trace front ready pattern with waist line and side seam line.  A-B  A-C  A-C=B-D

= fly opening length. = facing width (3 Cm) Trace A, B, D, & C on paper and cut.

Fly facing Final pattern:Add 1 cm seam allowance on ready pattern and mark notches, Grain line

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Fly Extension:Trace Back ready pattern with waist line and side seam line.  E-F  E-G  F- H

= fly opening length. Draw square line from point E & F = Extension width (3 Cm) = E – G Minus 5mm. (3 - 0.5 = 2.5) Trace E, F, H & G on paper and cut.

Fly Extension Final pattern:Align G-H with fold and trace Add 1 cm seam allowance on ready pattern and mark notches, Grain line

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DART MANIPULATION Principle. A dart can be transferred to any location around the pattern’s outline from a designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of the garment. Corollary. The dart excess (space between the dart legs) can be used as gathers, pleats, tuck-darts, style lines (those that cross over the bust point or within 1 inch of the bust), cowls, flare (unstitched dart legs), or ease in the armhole for casual garments. The creative use of the dart excess is called a dart equivalent. The dart or its equivalent will always be somewhere within the pattern where it was first developed. Dart(s) or dart equivalents will direct themselves toward the pivotal point. A dart ends before reaching the pivotal point and should not go beyond it, especially the pivotal point of the bust. Style darts

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Multiple darts Stylelines

Gathers

Flare

Tuck-darts

Cowl

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Techniques of Dart Manipulation • Slash-spread and overlap: Through this method, the patternmaker is able to see how the original working pattern changed into a design pattern. • Pivotal-transfer: This method does not require that the working pattern be slashed in order to change its original shape into a design pattern. It is a faster method and, with experience, it is preferred.

Charting Dart Locations To prepare for the following projects, trace a copy of the basic front bodice pattern on tag board and draw guidelines from bust point, marking each dart location. The guidelines establish common areas for dart relocation and for creating design patterns. However, they are not the only dart locations because a dart can be transferred anywhere around the pattern’s outline. The selected dart locations have specific uses and names. The names should be learned for clarity when communicating in the design room. Label the waist dart legs A and B. The French dart can be placed at any angle below the straight dart; the C.F. (center front) bust dart and straight dart are squared from the center front. The mid-armhole dart is directed from bust point to the armhole notch, and the shoulder dart is placed at the princess line. The shapes of the patterns that encircle the charted pattern differ from one another and are the result of transferring the original waist dart to the designated locations. Arun Kadve (11500UMSCFD1600001)

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SINGLE-DART SERIES SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE

1. CF Waist Dart Pattern Plot and Manipulation 

Trace the charted pattern. Mark the center front waist dart. Label dart legs A and B.



Draw slash line from center front waist to bust point.



Slash pattern from center front waist to, not through, bust point



Close dart legs A and B. Tape.



Place pattern on paper and retrace.



Center dart point 5/8 inch from bust point.



Draw dart legs to dart point



Add seams to pattern or muslin, as shown.



Complete pattern, using general pattern information for guidance, if necessary



To test fit, cut on fold for full front; for halfmuslin,



Add a 1-inch extension at front. Cut back pattern to complete design.

CF Waist Dart Arun Kadve (11500UMSCFD1600001)

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1. Mid Shoulder Dart Pattern Plot and Manipulation 

Trace the charted pattern. Mark the Mid Shoulder dart. Label dart legs A and B.



Draw slash line from Mid Shoulder to bust point.



Slash pattern from Mid Shoulder to, not through, bust point



Close dart legs A and B. Tape.



Place pattern on paper and retrace.



Centre dart point 5/8 inch from bust point.



Draw dart legs to dart point



Add seams to pattern or muslin, as shown.



Complete pattern, using general pattern information for guidance, if necessary



Add Seam Allowance and make final Pattern As per design (requirement)

Mid Shoulder dart

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SINGLE-DART SERIES Pivotal-transfer TECHNIQUE

The pivotal-transfer technique involves manipulating the original working pattern into a new shape by pivoting, shifting and tracing, instead of cutting. The working pattern is placed on top of pattern paper with a push pin placed through the pivotal point. To transfer a dart to a new location, the dart is marked on the paper underneath and then traced to an existing dart on the pattern. The pattern is then pivoted, closing original dart legs while opening space for the new dart. The remaining untraced pattern is traced to paper underneath. Once an area of the pattern has been traced, it is not traced again. This will be illustrated in the following design projects. Push pins are also used to transfer stylelines within the pattern’s frame. When the pattern is removed from the paper, the lines are trued with straight or curved rulers, using the pin marks as a guide. The shaded area on the illustrations indicates the part of the pattern affected when traced. Complete the sequence of exercises and save the patterns for future use.

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1. Mid-Neck Dart Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Mid neck dart



Place the working pattern on paper with a push pin through the bust point (pivotal point).



Mark the mid-neck location (point C) and dart leg a on paper.



Trace the section of pattern from dart leg A to C (blue line and shaded area).



Pivot pattern until dart leg B touches A on paper (Close waist dart and opens space for the mid neck dart).



Trace the remaining section of the pattern from dart leg B to point C on the pattern (blue line and shaded area). Note: When the pattern is pivoted, it will overlay the previously traced pattern section. This is a natural occurrence. Remember, once a section of the pattern is traced, it is not traced again.



Remove the working pattern from paper.



Draw dart legs to bust point.



Center the dart point 5/8 inch from the bust point.



Redraw dart legs to the dart point.



Add 1/2-inch seams and 1/4 inch at neckline.

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2. Side Seam Bust level Dart Pattern Plot and Manipulation 

Mark side dart location (C) and trace pattern from A to C (shaded area).



Pivot the pattern until dart leg B touches point A on paper (closes waist dart and opens space for side dart).



Trace remaining pattern.



Remove the pattern, draw dart legs to bust, center dart point 5/8 inch from bust point, and draw new dart legs.



Add Seam allowance and complete pattern

Side dart

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TWO-DART SERIES SLASH—SPREADTECHNIQUE

A two-dart working pattern (waist and side dart) will be developed for the projects that follow. The two-dart pattern is used in industry more often than a one-dart pattern. There are advantages to dividing the dart excess into more than one location other than the creative aspects of the design. • • •

Pattern pieces fit the marker more economically. The natural bias of the fabric at side seam is less severe. Fit is improved by releasing ease around the Bust mound from two dart points rather than from one.

Pattern May be used from 2 dart front bodice draft or may be used single dart pattern to develop double dart pattern for making working pattern

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1. Mid Shoulder dart and Waist Dart Pattern Plot and Manipulation •

Trace pattern; mark bust point and mid-shoulder.

•

Draw a slash line to bust point from mid-shoulder and from dart point of the side dart to bust point.

•

Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point from shoulder and side dart (hinge).

•

Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

•

Trace the pattern.

•

Center the dart point 1 inch from bust point.

•

Draw dart legs to new dart point.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

DART CLUSTERS AND DART EQUIVALENTS

The dart excess may be divided among multiple openings and treated as a single design unit. When used as a single design unit, the dart excess may be identified as a group of basic or stylized darts, tuckdarts, pleats, or a variation in any combination desired. The following instructions ap ply to the development of darts, tuck-darts, and pleat clusters. The slash lines for cluster arrangements can vary, being made parallel or radiating.

Tuck-darts

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Darts

Pleats

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

1. Waist Cluster Pattern Plot and Development •

Trace basic bodice.

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Square a guideline out from each dart leg 1 inch below bust point.

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Draw parallel slash lines to the guideline 1 inch from dart legs. Darts may be tapered to 3/4 inch at waistline for a slimming effect.

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Connect to bust point.

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Cut the pattern from paper.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping •

Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.

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Place on paper and spread equally, and secure.

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Draw dart legs as follows:  Middle dart—center dart point 1/2 inch below the guideline and draw legs to waist.Measure the length of the dart leg.  Outer dart legs—mark dart points 1/2 inch below on one side of the slash line. Draw dart legs equal to length of the middle dart leg.

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Add seams, and allow excess of paper below waistline for shaping darts. Cut from paper.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping •

Fold dart excess toward center front (allow pattern to cup). Waistline will be uneven.

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Draw blending line across waistline. Draw seam allowance, 1/2-inch line parallel with waistline.

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Cut excess while darts are folded, or trace (with tracing wheel) across seam allowance line.

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Unfold and pencil in perforated line.

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To complete the patterns, cut three copies for practice. Choose the dart equivalent desired (darts, tuck-darts, or pleats).

A. Dart Cluster •

Center punch hole 1/2 inch from dart point and circle.

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Notch pattern, including dart legs.

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Draw grainline. Cut basic back for test fit.

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B. Tuck-Dart Cluster •

Mark the center fold of each dart for punch holes one-half the distance to dart point (varies).

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Mark punch holes in center and 1/8 inch from dart legs.

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Circle all punch marks.

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Notch seam allowance and dart legs.

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Draw grainline. Cut basic back and complete for test fit.

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C. Pleat Cluster •

Notch each dart leg (broken lines indicate original dart legs).

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Draw grainline. Cut basic back and complete for test fit.

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Punch holes—not required for gathers.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

2.

Center Front Bust Cluster

Pleats

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Darts

Tuck-darts

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping Pattern Plot and Development •

Trace basic bodice pattern. Label dart legs A and B. Square a line from center front to bust point.

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Draw a guideline 1 inch from bust point, parallel with center front.

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Draw line 3/4 inch out from each side of line to guideline.

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Connect to bust point as shown.

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Cut pattern from paper.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping •

Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.

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Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

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Place on paper and spread equally. Secure.

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Draw dart legs to guideline as shown.

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3. Shoulder Cluster

Pattern Plot and Manipulation • • • • •

Trace basic bodice. Mark mid-shoulder and label dart legs A and B. Draw a slash line from mid-shoulder to bust point. Square a guideline 1 1/2 inches above bust point. Draw parallel line 1 inch out from each side to guideline. Connect to bust point.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping •

Cut slash line to, not through, bust point.

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Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

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Place on paper and spread slash lines equally.

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Draw dart legs to guideline.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

Graduated Darts

Design Analysis: Design features graduating darts along the shoulder line. The longest dart ends at bust level.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

Pattern Plot and Manipulation •

Trace bodice front and label darts legs A and B.

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Square a line from the center front to the side seam, passing through the dart point.

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Draw a slash line from center front to 1 inch past the dart point. Label C.

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Draw four slash lines equally spaced from shoulder to guideline.

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Cut from paper.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping New Pattern Shape •

Cut from neck to C and from C to dart point.

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Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

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Cut slash lines to, not through, guideline.

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Place on paper, spread, and tape. (Corner at neck will not meet, and part of guideline overlaps.)

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Trace the pattern and blend neckline.

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Center dart point 1 inch up from slash lines.

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Draw dart legs, fold and blend shoulder.

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Complete 1/2 inch seams. Trim fullest dart legs to within 1/2 inch of seam line. Add 1/4 inch at neck.

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Radiating Darts

Design Analysis Design features radiating darts from neck, with the longest dart placed at midneckline and directed to bust point.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping Pattern Plot and Manipulation •

Trace basic pattern. Label dart legs A and B.

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Draw a slash line from mid-neck to bust point. Label C.

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Locate mid-point on line C. Square out 1 inch on each side. Label D and E.

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Measure out 1/2 inch on each side of C. Mark and draw slash lines to D and E and to bust point.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping New Pattern Shape •

Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.

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Place on paper. Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

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Spread lines D and E 1/2 inch at neck. Remaining excess is taken up by middle dart.

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Locate dart points between guidelines as shown, with middle dart point 1 inch from bust point.

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Draw dart legs to dart point. Fold darts and blend neckline.

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Trace basic back, add seams, and complete pattern for test fit.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

ASYMMETRIC DARTS

Asymmetric darts cross center front of the garment. Pattern shapes will change radically from that of the working pattern. Asymmetric darts require special pattern handling and identification, as do all designs that differ from side to side. Compare pattern shapes with each design. Cut basic back to complete the design for test fit. • • •

A full front pattern is required. Right-side-up instructions are necessary. The existing dart of the working pattern may interfere with the placement of a stylized dart. If so, the dart should be transferred temporarily to another location (such as mid-armhole) before the pattern is plotted, Seam allowance is illustrated for each pattern because of the dart’s unique shape and location (1/4 inch at neck; 1/2 inch at shoulder, armhole, and waist; and 1/2 to 3/4 inch at side seams).

1. Asymmetric Radiating Darts

Design Analysis: Both darts end at the waist on the same side, forming tuck-darts. Scoop neckline completes the design. Transfer waist darts to mid-armhole location, where they will not interfere with plotting of the stylized darts. Beginners may want to use a basic neckline (bow not illustrated).

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping Pattern Plot and Manipulation •

Trace pattern on fold, transferring waist dart to mid-armhole dart location. Draw neckline.

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Cut from paper. Unfold.

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Draw slash lines from bust points to side waist.

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Crossmark 3 inches up from the corners of each slash line to indicate the length of the tuck-dart.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

New Pattern Shape • • •

Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point. Close dart legs. Tape and trace. Label right-side-up. Draw grainline and add seams.

Tuck-Darts •

Draw seams across open dart 1/2 inch below each crossmark.

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Cut from paper. (Broken lines show the discarded part of dart legs.)

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping

2. Asymmetric Intersecting Darts

Intersecting darts resemble asymmetric darts and dart equivalents. The darts cross center front and intersect with each other. To complete the design, use basic back patern. See Chapter 16 for guidance in developing facings

Design Analysis: Darts are treated as pleats in the “V” section. The neckline is cut away.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping Pattern Plot and Development •

Trace pattern on fold, transferring waist dart to midarmhole.

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Draw neckline 1 inch in from neck at shoulder. Blend to center front neck.

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Cut from paper. Unfold.

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Draw slash lines intersecting at center front.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping •

Cut slash lines to, not through, bust points.

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Close dart legs. Tape.

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Pleats: Fold darts.

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Add seams and notches for pleats.

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Draw grain and label right-side-up.

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Cut from paper.

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Style lines Introduction Stylelines fall into two classifications: those that cross over the bust and those that do not. Stylelines discussed in this chapter are those crossing over the bust, replacing dart legs with style seams. Stylelines that absorb dart excess within stitchlines control the fit of the garment and are called dart equivalents, as discussed in the corollary for, Dart Manipulation. The original size and fit of the garment remain the same, even though the shapes of the pattern pieces have been changed through manipulation. equivalents. The panel design included in the chapter represents this type and clarifies the difference between the two styleline types.

Classic princess styleline The classic princess should be developed and perfected as a seamless working pattern. It is a popular base for other design variations. Seams are added as a guide for all stylelines Design Analysis The classic princess is distinguished by a styleline that starts at the front and back waist darts, continues over bust points and shoulder blades, and ends at midshoulder dart of the back (position of dart point can vary to improve styleline). Stylelines (dart equivalents) replace darts. The design can be based on the one- or two-dart pattern.

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping Pattern Plot and Manipulation Front Bodice •

Trace front of two-dart pattern.

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Draw styleline from mid-shoulder (in line with back shoulder dart) to bust point and from bust point to dart leg at waist.

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Crossmark for ease control notches, 2 inches above and below bust point.

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Draw slash line from bust point to dart point of side dart.

Separate pattern •

Crossmark 3/4 inch from bust point (new pivot point). Label X.

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Cut and separate pattern along styleline

Side bust ease •

Cut slash line from bust point and dart point to, not through, point X.

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Close side dart legs. Tape. (This provides ease for the side bust.)

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping Shaping Styleline •

Retrace side front panel.

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Shape bust curve, as shown. (Broken lines represent original shape of panel.)

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping Optional Front Panel Shaping •

To shape front panel, place side panel on top of front panel, matching waist and bust points.

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Trace side panel curve to front panel from waist to bust. Blend. (Broken line represents original shape of front panel and pattern underneath.)

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Adjust ease control notches on side front panel when walking the patterns.

Back Bodice •

Trace back pattern.

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Place skirt curve on the shoulder dart leg and waist dart point and draw the princess line.

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Shift shoulder dart point to the styleline and redraw dart legs. (Broken line indicates original dart.)

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Advance Garment Construction Technique/ Draping •

Crossmark dart points on styleline Cut and separate pattern pieces.

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Front and back classic princess patterns are complete as seamless for use as a working pattern

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