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Material used  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★  

3.5 mm hook  3.0 mm hook  2.5 mm hook  Tapestry needle  Black safety eyes size 8.0 mm  Stuffing (poly fiber fill is the best, otherwise  some cotton wool will do)  Light peach yarn size 3-3.5  Bright pink yarn size 3-3.5  Black yarn size 3-3.5  Purple yarn size 3-3.5  Bordeaux yarn size 2-2.5  White yarn size 2  Blue yarn size 2  Violet yarn size 3-3.5    Bordeaux

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Body  Work  the  whole  body  (legs,  torso,  arms  and ears) using  light peach yarn and a 2.0 hook. 

Legs  R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)  R2-R13: 6 sc (6)  For  the  first  leg:  make  a  slip  stitch  and  cut  the  yarn  (leave  a  long  tail  in  case  some  sewing  should  be  needed).  Don’t  cut  the  yarn  after  making  the  second  leg  instead,  you’ll keep on working from there to join the legs 

Torso  First, we Join the legs  R14:  3  sc  in 2nd leg, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back  side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)  R15: 16 sc (16)  Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!  R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)  Flower R17: 18 sc (18)  R18: 18 sc (18)  page ) R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)  Booty finished :)  R20: 16 sc (16)  R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)  R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)  R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10)  R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)  R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) 

Neck  Now 2 rounds for the neck  R26-R27: 6 sc (6)  Neck done, now we start the head 

Head  R28: 6 inc (12)  R29: 12 inc (24) 

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Work  the  whole  body  (legs,  torso,  arms  and ears) using  light peach yarn and a 2.0 hook. 

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Legs 

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R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)  R2-R13: 6 sc (6)  For  the  first  leg:  make  a  slip  stitch  and  cut  the  yarn  (leave  a  long  tail  in  case  some  sewing  should  be  needed).  -3 Don’t  cut  the  yarn  after  making  the  second  leg  instead, you’ll keep on working from there to join the legs 

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First, we Join the legs  22 → R14:  3  sc  in 2nd leg, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back  → 21 side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)  20 → R15: 16 sc (16)  Is → Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!  to → R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)  17 → R17: 18 sc (18)  16 → R18: 18 sc (18)  15 → R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)  Booty finished :)  → 14 R20: 16 sc (16)  → 13 R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)  12 → R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)  It → R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10)  → to R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)  s → R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) 

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Neck  Now 2 rounds for the neck  R26-R27: 6 sc (6)  Neck done, now we start the head 

Head  R28: 6 inc (12)  R29: 12 inc (24) 

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R30: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)  At  this  point,  your  stitch  marker  is probably somewhere  Make enough stitches behind  the  doll’s  back  (use  the  booty  as  a  reference  to  understand  which  is  the  front  and  which  is  the  back).  to move the stitch marker You  must  now  make  enough  stitches  to  position  the  stitch  marker  right  on  the  left  side  of  the  doll  before  from here to there ! moving on with the next round.   If  you’re  indeed  on  the  back,  this  operation  should  not  Stitch marker Back increase  the  number  of  rounds  you  count  on  the face of  the  doll.  However,  if  you  were  somewhere  just  past the  Left side left  shoulder,  you  are  indeed  adding  one  round  to  the  face.  It  won’t  impact  a  lot  the  look  of  the  doll,  you  just  have  to  keep  in mind to place the eyes one round higher  than indicated :)  Why  are  we  making  this?  Because  we’re  about  to  give  Front an  asymmetrical  shape  to  the  head  to make the face… if  you  don't  place  the  stitch  marker  correctly,  you  risk  to  ! Booty ← ' end  up  with  a  doll  facing  left, right, or, even worse, with  i the head completely twisted around!  [Just  as  an  indication,  I  made  11  additional  sc  and  placed  the  stitch marker on the last stitch before moving  on with the next round]  R31: (1 sc, inc) x 9, 18 sc (45)  R32-R33: 45 sc (45)  R34: (2 sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38)  R35-R40: 38 sc (38)  R41: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)  Stop  and  place  the  safety  eyes  between  round  35  and  round  36  8  sc  apart.  Feel  free  to  modify  the  position  to  where you feel suites at best the personality of your doll.  I  personally  think  that  placing  the  eyes  very  low  and  quite apart gives a sweeter look :)  If  you’d  like  to  make  an  embroidery  for  the  eyes,  that’s  the best moment to do it!  R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)  R43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)  Keep stuffing while you close the head!  R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)  R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)  R46: 6 dec (6)  Cut  the  yarn  leaving  a  long  tail  for  sewing.  Using  a  tapestry  needle,  pass the tail through all the loops of the  last  round,  and  pull.  Make  a  knot  and  hide  the  yarn  inside the doll’s body. 

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Arms  Make two  R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)  R2-R10: 5 sc (5)  At  the  end  of  each  arm,  cut  the  yarn  leaving  a  long  tail  for sewing.  Sew  the  arms  so  that  the  upper  part  corresponds  to  round 23 of the body (right below the neck). 

Ears  Chain  2,  then  make  3  stitches  in  the  second  loop  from  hook.  And a ear is done! Make 2.  Leave  a  long  tail  for  sewing  (tail  2).  Also,  I  find  it  handy  to  leave  a  long  tail  at  the  beginning  as  well,  before  starting the chain (tail 1).  To  sew  the  ears,  insert  tail 1 at the same row where the  eyes  are,  5  stitches  apart  from  the  eye.  Sew  the  rest  accordingly, trying to keep the shape of the ear round.   

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Dress  Top part  Work with bright pink yarn and 3.0 hook.  This part is worked in rows.  Row1: chain 5 (4)  Row2: 4 inc (8)  Row3: 8 inc (16)  Row4: inc, chain 2, skip 4, 6 sc, chain 2, skip 4, inc (14)  Row5: 14 sc (14)  Then,  stitch  all around the front part of the dress using a  2.5 hook and violet yarn (I made 15 stitches overall). 

Sleeves  Work with pink yarn and 3.0 hook.  Sleeves are worked in rounds.  Start  crocheting  the  sleeves  in  the  hole  left  by  (chain  2,  skip  4)  in  Row4  of  the  top  part.  You  should  start with 8  sc,  which  means  you  must  make  1 stitch in each loop of 

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the  chain,  1  stitch  in  each  of  the  4  stitches  skipped  +  2  stitches  in  the  junctures  between the two. Overall, you’ll  get the 8 sc of round 1  R1: 8 sc (8)  R2: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)  R3-R4: 10 sc (10) 

Skirt  Work with bordeaux yarn and 2.5 hook  It  starts  in  rows,  but  we’ll  join  the  ends  later  on  and  work in rounds.  Row1-Row4: make a rectangular stripe 18 sc long (18)  Join  the  end  and  the  beginning  of  the  stripe,  and  start  working in rounds  R5-R7: 18 sc (18)  R8: dec, 16 sc (17)  Now,  we’re  about  to  start  cutting  the  dress  in  order  to  make  it  asymmetrical  and  leave  the  space  where  to  show  the  white  part.  If  you  shall  feel  it’s  too  complicated,  just  drop  the  white  part,  and  make  a  few  more  rounds  of  17  sc.  Otherwise,  you  can proceed with  the instructions.  R9: 11 sc, slip stitch  Turn  and  start  working  in  the  other  direction  (don’t  make the additional loop at the end of the row)  R10: 9 sc, slip stitch  Turn  and  start  working  in  the  other  direction  (don’t  make the additional loop at the end of the row)  R11: 7 sc, slip stitch  Turn  and  start  working  in  the  other  direction  (don’t  make the additional loop at the end of the row)  R12: 5 sc, slip stitch  Turn  and  start  working  in  the  other  direction  (don’t  make the additional loop at the end of the row)  R13: 3 sc, slip stitch  Pull out the yarn and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Skirt lower layer  Work with white yarn and 2.5 hook.  If  your  yarn  is  not  very  thin,  don’t  try  this,  it  will  be  a  mess.  R1: chain 17  Join the two extremities and start working in rounds.  R2-R5: 17 sc (17) 

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This part should fit inside the bordeaux part.  Sew  it  on  the  inner  face  of  the  skirt  only,  to  avoid  the  stitches to be visible from the outside 

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Blue part  Work with blue yarn and 2.5 hook.  This part is worked in rows.  Row1: chain 23  Row2-Row8: 22 sc (22) 

Bordeaux stripe  It’s just a long chain, make it as long as you like   

Purple stripe  It’s  just a long chain + all the way back with slip stitches.  Make it as long as you like.   

How  to  sew  the  dress  to  the  body 

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First  of  all,  put  the  Pink  part  on.  Sew  the  lower  part  to  the  body  so  it  will  stay in the correct position. If needed,  you  could  also  sew  a  bit the sleeves to the body to keep  the arms lower.  Then,  you  can  put  on  the  red  skirt  (inside  which  you  should  have  already  sewed  the  white  part,  if  any).  The  upper  part of the skirt should touch the lower part of the  pink  shirt.  Better  if  you  sew  it  to  the  body  to  keep  it  in  place.  Then,  roll  the  blue  part  around  the  doll.  The  upper  part  of  the  blue  stripe  should be positioned almost under the  doll’s  armpits.  Sew  it  on  the  back.  It  doesn’t  have  to  be  very tight as we’re about to add the bordeaux stripe.  Last  touch:  tie  the  bordeaux  stripe  in  the  middle  of  the  blue  part.  You  can  twist  it  a  couple  of  times  for  a better  look.  This  should  be  tight  to  accentuate  the  shape,  so  pull hard!   

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Work with black yarn and 3.5 hook.  First chain 17.  long 1st You’re going to create one hair in each loop of this chain.  Then,  you’ll  get  to  sew  the  hairs  one by one to the head  (feeling lucky, eh?)  You should make (in this order):  R1: chain 17 (main chain)  R2:  chain  16  in  second  loop  from  hook,  go  back  to  the  main chain with 15 sc, make a stitch in loop after  R3-R4:  chain 8 in second loop from hook, go back to the  main chain with 7 sc, make a stitch in loop after  F   chain  16  in  second  loop  from  hook,  go  back to  R5-R15: the main chain with 15 sc, make a stitch in loop after  R16:  chain  6  in  second  loop  from  hook,  go  back  to  the  main chain with 5 sc, make a stitch in loop after  Efta

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000000000000000,0 R5  is  the  hair  that  goes  behind  the  left  year.  R3-R4  are  some  shorter  hairs  to  fill  the  part  below  R5  when  it  will  be  bent.  R16  is  the  smaller  hair  in  the  middle  of  the  forehead.  Pull  a  piece  of  yarn  through  all  the  loops  of  the  main  chain, pull and make a knot.  First  sew  the  central  part  of  the  wig  on  the  top  of  the  head  (pay  attention  that  the  hairs  should  be  in  the  correct  position).  Then  you  can  proceed  with  sewing  it  in  the  middle  and  then  in  the  lower  part.  Maybe  the  graphic instructions are more explicit :)    Foo

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Work with white yarn and 2.0 hook  Start with 5 sc in magic ring.  For each sc in the magic ring make:  chain  3,  sc  in  second  loop  from  hook,  double  crochet,  slip stitch in next sc of the magic ring.     

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