Pocahontas: Pattern

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This

 

is

a

pattern

to

crochet

Pocahontas This

pattern written

@ Chi

was

by

crafts

a

who hopes you'll enjoy

@chiacrafts, copyright

it

a

lot

all

!

Read me, I’m the licence! :)  Hello, and thank you for being about to try this pattern!   It was made with lots of love, and I hope it will be useful    This  pattern  was  prepared  by  me,  Chiara  Cremon  aka  @chiacrafts, and kindly shared for free.   Please  DO  NOT  distribute  this  pattern  yourself,  and  give  credits  to the author when posting online or selling the product.    If you are going to share pictures on Instagram, please remember  to:  ★ insert “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and   ★ use the hashtag #chiacraftspatterns.  If  you  don’t,  I  would  very  much  like  to  receive  a  picture  of  your  work anyway :)        For any doubt, you can contact me on Instagram! 

 

 

Enjoy heal t

the

the

pattern !

wait

to

result

.

-

@chiacrafts, copyright

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Chiara

Stitches  MR = Magic Ring  sc = single crochet  inc = increase (invisible)  dec = decrease (invisible)  dc = double crochet  hdc = half double crochet  ch = chain  sl = slip stitch  tr = treble crochet  BLO  =  back  loop  only  (corresponds  to  the  inner  loop  when working in rounds)  ★ FLO  =  front  loop  only  (corresponds  to  the  outer  loop  when working in rounds)  ★ TD  =  turn  directly  without  making  the  additional  loop  at  the end of a row  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

 

Indications  ★ Rounds are worked with continuous rounds technique.  ★ When  working  in  rows,  work  through  the  entire  stitch,  not  back  loop  or  front  loop  only  (unless  specified  elsewise).   ★ The  last  loop  to  be  made  at  the  end  of  each  row  is  not  counted  between  those  indicated  in  the  pattern.  You  should always add it if not indicated elsewise.  ★ After  a  chain,  always  work from second loop from hook if  not indicated otherwise   

Tips  Use stitch markers  Count your stitches  Try working tight  If  you  don’t  have  the  correct  yarn  size,  better  to  go  for  a  measure less than one more, same for the hook size  ★ You  can  find  some  tutorials  on  my  Instagram  account,  I  will add more  ★ ★ ★ ★

   

@chiacrafts, copyright

Material used  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

3.5 mm hook (hair)  2.5 mm hook (dress)  2.0 mm hook (body)  Tapestry needle  Black safety eyes (mine are 8mm)  Stuffing  (poly  fiber  fill  is  the  best,  otherwise  some  cotton  wool will do)  Beige yarn size 3-3.5 (skin)  Orange yarn size 3-3.5 (tattoo only)  Brown yarn size 3-3.5 (dress details only)  Black yarn size 3-3.5 (hair)  Ochre yarn size 2.5 (dress)  White yarn size 2.0 (dress)  Light blue yarn size 3-3.5 (necklace only) 

  Note:  for  a  good  result,  better  to  respect  the  sizes  of  thread and  hooks  .  If  you  can’t,  I’d  advise  you  to still respect the proportions  between  the  threads  and  between  thread  and  hook  size  (indicated  at  each  step).  This  way  the  clothes  will end up having  the correct thickness and proportions :) 

 

 

@chiacrafts, copyright

Body  Work the entire body using beige yarn and 2.0 hook. 

Legs  R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)  R2-54: 6 sc  R6-R13: 6 sc (6)  For  the  first  leg:  pull  out  the  yarn  and  cut  it  (leave  a  long  tail  in  case some sewing should be needed).  Instead,  after  making  the  second  leg,  don’t  cut  the  yarn;  you’ll  keep on working from there to join the legs. 

Torso  First, we join the legs  R14:  3  sc  in  2nd  leg,  chain  2,  6  sc  in  1st  leg, 2 sc in back side of  the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)  R15: 16 sc (16)  Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!  R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)  R17: 18 sc (18)  R18: 18 sc (18)  R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)  Booty finished :)  Start stuffing the body  R20: 16 sc (16)  R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)  R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)  R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10)  R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)  R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) 

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Now 2 rounds for the neck  R26-R27: 6 sc (6)  Neck done, now we start the head 

Head  R28: 6 inc (12)  R29: 12 inc (24)  R30: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)  @chiacrafts, copyright

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At  this  point,  your  stitch  marker  is  probably  somewhere  behind  the doll’s back (use the booty as a reference to understand which  is  the  front  and  which  is  the  back).  You  must  now  make enough  stitches  to  position  the  stitch  marker  right  on  the  left  side  of  the  doll before moving on with the next round.   Why  this?  Because  we’re  about  to  give  an  asymmetrical  shape  to the head to make the face… if you don't place the stitch marker  correctly,  you  risk  to  end  up  with  a  doll facing left, right, or, even  worse, with the head completely twisted around!  In  R31,  the  (1sc,  inc)  x 9 is supposed to be on the front, whereas  the 18 sc should be on the back.  If  you’re  already  close  to  the  left  side,  you  can  simply  continue  with  R31.  Otherwise,  you  must  make  some  additional  sc  so that  • youàll start
Arms  R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)  R2-R3: 5 sc (5)  R4-R10: 5 sc (5)  Then make a slip stitch, turn, make 2 sc, one more slip stitch. 

@chiacrafts, copyright

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This  should  give  you  the  curvature  for  the  shoulders.  You  can  also decide to stop at R10.  To make the tattoo, change color for R8 only to orange.  Make 2.  At  the  end  of  each  arm,  pull  out the yarn and leave a long tail for  sewing.  Sew  the  arms  so  that  the  upper  part corresponds to round 23 of  the body (right below the neck). 

Dress  Start with ochre yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook  This part is worked in rows.  Row1: ch 17 (16)  Row2: 16 sc (16)  Row3: 6 sc FLO, ch 2, skip 4, 6 sc FLO (14)  Row4: 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc (16)  Row5: 16 sc (16)  Row6: 15 sc, sl, TD (15)  Row7: 14 sc, sl, TD (14)  Row8: 13 sc, sl, TD (13)  Row9: 11 sc, sl, TD (11)  Row10: 9 sc, sl, TD (9)  Row11: 7 sc, sl, TD (7)  Row12: 5 sc, sl, TD (5)  Row13: 3 sc, sl, TD (3)  Row14: 1 sc, sl, TD (1)  Fasten off.  Go  back  to  Row2,  ​use  white  yarn  size  2.0  and  2.0  hook  and  make  Row3-bis  6  dc  BLO,  4  sc  (in  the  4  stitches  skipped  in  R3),  6  dc  BLO  Then,  using  same  yarn  and  hook,  stitch  with  DC  all  around  the  end of the dress.   If  you  want,  you  can  embroider  some  “x”  using  brown  yarn  on  one  side  of  the  dress.  Also,  always  using  brown  yarn,  you  can  prepare a short chain to be used as a belt.  Then put the dress on the doll and sew it on her left side. 

Necklace  Work with blue yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.5 hook  ch 4, sc in second loop from hook, chain 3  Necklace

@chiacrafts, copyright



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Hair  Work with black yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.5 hook (pay attention to  this  hook  change:  this  makes  the  hairs  longer  and  thicker.  Crochet intentionally loosely to keep the hair straight).  To  prepare  the  hair  wig,  you  must  start  with  a  long  chain  (main  chain)  long  11.  You’re  going  to  crochet  one  single  hair  in  each  loop of this chain.  ● First  9  hairs:  (ch  19,  18  sc)  +  1  sc  in  the  next  loop  of  the  main chain  ● 10th hair: (chain 23, 22 sc)   You  can  add  more  hairs  if  needed  (you  must  check  for  them  to  cover the head).  You  can  also  vary  the  length  of the hairs if you think they are too  short or too long.   Once  you’re  done,  pass  a  thread  in  all  the  loops  of  the  main  chain, pull and make a knot. 

Sew the hair to the head  Sew  the  wig  on  top  of  the  head.  The  10th  hair  must stay on the  front.  Sew all the hairs to the head @R44 of the head.  Sew all the hairs but the 10th one @R32  Make  an  S  with  the  longer  hair  to  cover  the  front  and  sew  it  to  the other hairs (this is why it’s longer).  If  you  want  to  make  the  hair  even  straighter,  you  can  sew  the  together.

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@chiacrafts, copyright

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