Top Projects In Overshot

Best Of

A Baker's Dozen

Top Projects in Overshot

A

lmost no experience in weaving can equal the thrill of placing your first pattern picks in overshot. How is it possible that only four shafts can provide so much pattern! Most of us have to weave a lot of overshot before we understand it well enough to create our own drafts and design our own pieces, but the lure to do so is irresistible. Whether you’re new to this structure or a longtime overshot fan, you’ll love weaving the projects in this collection or using them as springboards to new designs. This seventh book in the Best of Handwoven series includes thirteen favorite projects in overshot, from tiny pieces like pincushions to scarves and placemats to a large coverlet. The use of color and materials in these projects spans the range from traditional to contemporary. You’ll find many interesting and unique design innovations, such as creating color effects in the warp and tabby weft, drafting border designs that contrast with the central field, and placing isolated inlaid motifs on a plain-weave cloth. There are enough great ideas in this book to fill your house with gloriously patterned overshot fabrics.

c o ntents Blue Point Ru nn er — Gi sel a Ev i tt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Ov e rshot Placem a t s in P in k a n d W h it e — M ar g ar e t G ayn e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 C a lliope Pu rse — Margaret Sheppard wi th Janic e Jo ne s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Te a Coz y with P l a c em a t s — Beth K amphu is . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Pi ne Bloom Cov er l et — K athr yn Wertenbe r g e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Ov e rshot Ru nner w it h Bor d er s — Gene E. Valk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 C o untr y Oversh ot Ta b l e M a t — Jani ce Jo ne s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 I nl a id Overshot P l a c em a t s — Av i s Perr y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Ov e rshot Pincu sh ion s — Sue Beev ers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Bo r dered Overs h ot R u n n er — Sue Beeve r s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 We dding-Presen t P il l ow s — Nancy Arth u r H o s kins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 N a me-Draft Ov er sh ot S c a r f — Gi sel a Ev it t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Runn er for an A n t iq u e Ch est — Donna Le e A dams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Ti p s for Plannin g a n d Fin ish in g Over s h o t F abri cs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

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Blue Point Runner Gisela Evitt draft 2

3

4 2

5x 3

4

3

2

3

2

3

4

3

4 2

1

2

3

4

3

4

1

4 1

4 1

1

2

3

2

1

M = 1 strand 20/2 light blue and 1 strand 20/2 medium blue D = 1 strand 20/2 dark blue and 1/strand 20/2 medium blue

2

1

2

3

2

1

2

1

2

3

4 2

1

4 1

4

3

4

3

4

1

1

1

2

3

3

2

Heddle count 64 67 76 70

277

shaft 4 shaft 3 shaft 2 shaft 1

M

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot. FINISHED DIMENSIONS 83⁄8" wide by 35" long. Hems use an additional 21⁄2" at each end. (Add to the number of repeats for a wider runner.)

Yarn Sources 20/2 pearl cotton is available from most weaving retailers.

M M M M M M M M M

M M

M M

M M

NOTIONS and other materials White sewing thread. TOTAL WARP ENDS 277. M M M

E.P.I. 30.

M

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 M pattern M M M M M M M cont’d. M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M D M D M D M D M D D D D

←

WARP LENGTH 21⁄4 yd (allows 4" take-up and 33" loom waste).

3

3

4 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 1 1 1

border

/

/

M M M

M

M M M M

M M M M M M M M M

19x

WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 20/2 pearl cotton at 8,400 yd/lb, 975 yd natural. Pattern weft: 20/2 pearl cotton at 8,400 yd/lb: 320 yd medium blue, 275 yd light blue, and 45 yd dark blue.

M

2

←

M M M

3

4

plain weave, tabby

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (alternating between treadles 1 and 2).

PROJECT NOTES From among the 1,752 name drafts we developed for the registrants of Convergence 1990 in San Jose, California, I chose Suzanne Middlebrook’s to weave into a runner. The runner was among several pieces we displayed at the conference so that participants could see how their name drafts might be used.

M

M M M M M

M M

M M

M M

M M M M M M M M

M

M M M M M

M

M

cont’d.

Work a row of hemstitching over groups of 4 ends and the last 2 weft picks. Weave 1 pick of plain weave. Then weave the pattern section of the runner, following the treadling in the draft. Weave the plain weave (hemstitch), border, and hem sections as at the beginning, but in reverse.

WIDTH IN REED 91⁄4". P.P.I. 58 (29 for tabby, 29 for pattern). TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 8% in width and 10% in length. WEAVING Begin with 21⁄2" plain weave using natural 20/2 tabby weft. Weave the border using two strands of 20/2 cotton together for the pattern weft as indicated in the draft and end with 5 picks plain weave with the tabby weft only. © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

2

4

      

               

FINISHING Turn ends twice so that the full pattern shows on the right side and the fold on the wrong side meets the beginning of the hemstitched plain weave. Slip-stitch the hem in place with sewing thread. Handwash the fabric in warm water with mild detergent; lay flat to dry. Press while still damp.          h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

1

Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1997, pp. 37, 78                     © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

2

Overshot Placemats in pink and white M a r g a r e t G ay n e s 2x

Draft 1

2

3

4 1

2

1

2

3

2

3

4

3

4

3

4

3

2

3

= floating selvedges

4 2

1

2

1

3

2

1

2

3

4

P = white pattern weft

PROJECT NOTES These placemats are woven with a nontraditional color arrangement—the pattern weft is the same color as the warp; the contrasting color is used for the tabby weft. You can choose to follow a traditional color arrangement instead (use the same color for warp and tabby weft and a contrasting color for the pattern weft). The draft is based on Johann Schleelein’s No. 123, page 131, in Marguerite Porter Davison’s A Handweaver’s Pattern Book (see also pages 19–22 in this book). FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot. FINISHED DIMENSIONS Four placemats 131⁄2" wide by 171⁄2" long each, in­cluding 1⁄2" hems. WARP and WEFT Warp: 22/2 cottolin (50% cotton, 50% linen) at 3,170 yd/ lb, 1,130 yd white. Tabby weft and hems: 22/2 cottolin, 705 yd pink. Pattern weft: 10-ply cotton at 990 yd/lb, Tahki Cotton Classic, 565 yd white. YARN SOURCES 22/2 cottolin is available from most weaving retailers. Tahki Cotton Classic is available from most knitting shops. NOTIONS and other materials Matching pink sewing thread. TOTAL WARP ENDS 323 (includes 2 floating selvedges).

1

2

1

2

3

2

3

4

3

4

3

/ = violet tabby weft

4

3

2

3

4 2

1

2

2x 3

1

2

1

plain weave, tabby

Use tabby: After every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (use treadle 1 after the first pattern pick in each section and alternate between treadles 1 and 2 for the rest of the section).

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 /

/

P P

P

P

P

P P

P

P P

10x

P

P P

3x

P P P

11"

P WEAVING P P Begin and end each placemat with P P 1 3⁄4" plain weave for hems. For the P 3x P body of each placemat, follow the P P treadling in the draft, using tabby: P P Weave 10 repeats of the overshot P P 10x stripe section, 3 repeats of the overP shot pattern, 11" of overshot stripes, 3 repeats of the overshot pattern, 10 repeats of the overshot stripes. Beat firmly. The order of the tabby trea­dles in the overshot sections is important. The tabby treadle that follows the first pattern pick must be the 1-3 tabby for the pattern to have the correct appearance. Separate each placemat with two picks of plain weave in a colorfast contrasting color. Leave these marker threads in until after the fabric is washed and dried.

FINISHING Machine zigzag raw edges. Machine wash on a regular cycle with warm water and deter­gent. Tumble dry and steam press lightly, if desired. ASSEMBLY Machine stitch along both sides of contrasting-color marker threads and then cut placemats apart, removing the marker threads. Turn all ends under 1⁄2" twice and sew hems by hand or machine.

Warp Length 31⁄2 yd (allows 6" take-up and 32" loom waste). E.P.I. 20. WIDTH IN REED 163⁄10". P.P.I. 20 in plain-weave areas, 30 in pattern areas (15 for tabby, 15 for pattern). TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 17% in width and 11% in length.

© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

11x

      

                

treadling tips for overshot Here are some tips for making the weaving process error-free! 1. Write out the treadling sequence on a Post-It or strip of paper. If the sequence is long, divide it into smaller groups that are easier to remember. Attach the paper to the castle or near an end of the beater where it’s easy to see.

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

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2. Practice the sequence. Before you weave, press the treadles in order and check that the right combinations of shafts are raised (and/or lowered). If necessary, change the tie-up so that the treadles work in a sequence that is comfortable for you. 3. Using a smooth thread that contrasts in color with the warp, check the treadling by weaving a short sample. Check for any threading errors. 4. Check the sample against a drawdown of the pattern if you have made one or against a photo of the fabric if you are weaving a project from a magazine. 5. Check the underside of the sample. Sometimes it is easier to discover threading errors on the wrong side. 6. Check your shuttle position at the beginning and end of marked treadling sequences. As you complete a sequence each time, check to see that the shuttle is in the right place (if the shuttle takes an odd number of picks in the sequence, it

will take two repeats for it to return to the original position). For overshot, which requires using two shuttles, I always follow the same shuttle order: a pattern pick from the right, a tabby pick from the right using the rightmost tabby treadle, a pattern pick from the left, and finally the other tabby pick from the left using the leftmost tabby treadle. Because the tabby shuttle always follows the pattern shuttle, the two shuttles are on the same side of the web at the end of a pattern segment. If you find the shuttles out of position, you’ll know you’ve skipped a pick somewhere or made some other error. 7. Watch the fabric closely as you weave. I like to watch the pattern develop along a stripe or a small group of warp threads. The sooner an error is noticed, the fewer picks you’ll have to remove to fix it. 8. Talk to yourself. I often find myself chanting: “One, two three four . . . ” as I weave. If my chant is on “three” but my feet are on “four,” I know there’s a problem!

Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1992, pp. 33, 82                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

                

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

4

calliope Purse M a r g a r e t S h e p pa r d w i t h j a n i c e j o n e s

PROJECT NOTES

draft

The draft for this purse is an overshot name draft based on the word ”Calliope,” created by Margaret Sheppard and based on her memories of the calliope calls from riverboats near her childhood home in West Virginia. Using this draft, Janice Jones designed and wove a small evening bag. The purse has a zipper closure and is trimmed with metallic yarns twisted into a rope. A “gold” chain purchased from a hardware store makes a delicate handle. The purse, in glowing colors of pearl cotton, evokes thoughts of a moonlight cruise aboard a river boat.

3

9x

4 1

2

3

4

3

2

3

4 2

1

2

1

1

2

1

2

3

3

2

4

3

4 2

1

3

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 1 1 1

plain weave, tabby /

/ = tabby weft, cinnamon 5/2

L = pattern weft, lavender 10/2

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (alternate between treadles 1 and 2). “L” represents the pattern picks only.

/

L L L

L L

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot. FINISHED DIMENSIONS One purse 63⁄4" wide by 51⁄2" high. (The finished fabric is 73⁄4" wide by 14" long.) WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/lb, 350 yd Light Rust #108 (add 190 yd each additional bag). Pattern weft: 5/2 pearl cotton at 2,100 yd/lb, 87 yd #64 Violet (lavender; add 87 yd each additional bag). YARN SOURCES UKI pearl cottons are available from most weaving retailers. Notions and other materialS Matching rust sewing thread; 6" rust zipper; 71⁄2" by13" piece of coordi­nating lining fabric; 50" length of chain or purchased cord for handle (or you can prepare a twisted cord). TOTAL WARP ENDS 204. WARP LENGTH 11⁄4 yd (allows 2" take-up and 27" loom waste). Add 1⁄2 yd length for each additional bag. E.P.I. 24 WIDTH IN REED 81⁄2". P.P.I. 40 (20 for pattern, 20 for tabby). TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 11% in width and 12% in length.

© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

L L L

L

L L L L L L L L

L L

L L

L

WEAVING Weave the fabric following treadling sequence (use tabby), beating firmly, for 16". FINISHING Machine zigzag raw edges. Wash by hand with liquid detergent in warm water. Lay flat to dry. Press with a warm iron. ASSEMBLY Machine stitch two rows across the middle of the fabric length and cut between stitching lines to make two pieces, each the width of the warp by 7". With right sides together, sew the sides with 1⁄2" seam allowance. Turn right side out. Fold top edges to the inside. Open the zipper and pin zipper tape along the folded raw edge inside the purse, with the zipper teeth facing the top fold. Close the zipper to be sure it works and lines up correctly. With the zipper open, stitch it in place through all layers 1⁄4" from the zipper teeth, starting at the closed end, folding down the excess zipper tape at the open end, and continu­ing back to the closed end. Turn right side out and check. Turn inside out again and sew bottom seam. Turn right side out. Cut two pieces of lining fabric 71⁄2" by 61⁄2" each. Sew sides and bottom, right sides together, with 1⁄2" seams. Fold down 1" to the wrong side at the top edge and press. Insert lining into purse (wrong sides to wrong sides), match seams, and sew lin­ing in place by hand just under the zipper stitching.

        

handwovenmagazine.com

5

The bag handle is a thin gold chain (purchased from a hardware store) attached with S-hooks at the top of the bag, and a metallic yarn rope (made by twist­ing multiple strands of gold metallic yam together) is stitched with gold thread to the

side seams and lower edge. You could instead make a twisted cord with warp and weft yarns and sew it to the outer edges. (To grasp the zipper pull easily, attach a matching tassel to the pull. A fa­vorite charm may even be better.)

Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1991, pp. 80, 97–98                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

6

Tea Cozy With Placemats Bep Kamphuis PROJECT NOTES These placemats and tea cozy are woven with a linen pattern weft and an all-cotton ground cloth. (In traditional overshot, the pattern weft is usually wool. For kitchen fabrics, linen is more practical.) If you‘d prefer to use all linen, you can substitute either 40/2 or 20/1 linen for the warp and tabby weft. If you do, be sure to beam the warp under firm and even tension. A flexible 3⁄4" thick foam plastic insulates this cozy—polyester fiberfill, cotton batting, or carded wool will also work (although the resulting cozy will not be quite as firm and free-standing). The woven part of the tea cozy is easily removed for laundering. The overshot draft is an adaptation of one that is sometimes called Double Bowknot. FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot. FINISHED DIMENSIONS One tea cozy 91⁄2" high by 12" wide by 2" thick, including an 8" cuff turned to the inside as lining; four placemats, each 121⁄12" wide by 163⁄4" long including hemstitched openwork and a 11⁄4" hem on each end. WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 20/2 cotton at 8,400 yd/lb, 3,879 yd natural. Pattern weft: 16/2 linen at 2,580 yd/lb,1,060 yd golden yellow. (Amounts include enough to weave the cuff lining of the tea cozy instead of using commercial fabric.) YARN SOURCES 20/2 cotton (pearl or unmercerized) is available from most weaving retailers. 16/2 linen is available from the Lone Star Loom Room. Notions and other materials Matching off-white sewing thread; a few yards of smooth cord (to hold space for hemstitched openwork); one piece of 3 ⁄4" foam rubber 111⁄2" by 19"; two pieces of cotton fabric at least 121⁄2" by 20" to cover the foam; optional two pieces of fabric 8" by 12" for inner cuff if you don’t weave it; Velcro for attaching cozy cover to padding (optional). TOTAL WARP ENDS 431 (includes 2 floating selvedges). WARP LENGTH 5 yd (allows 7" take-up and 31" loom waste). E.P.I. 30. WIDTH IN REED 141⁄2". © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

P.P.I. 30 in plain-weave areas, 52 in pattern areas (26 for tabby, 26 for pattern). TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 13% in width and 10% in length. WEAVING For each placemat: Weave 31⁄2" plain weave with cotton weft, leaving a long tail of weft for hemstitching. Hemstitch over the last 4 picks, including 4 ends in each stitch. Lay a length of smooth cord into the next shed, leaving tails at both sides. Weave 4 picks of plain weave and hemstitch over these picks as before. Weave 4 picks plain weave and then weave pattern following the draft on page 9. Finish with plain weave and hemstitching as at the beginning, but in reverse. Repeat for four placemats, separating them with 1 or 2 picks of a contrasting color. The front and back of the tea cozy are woven as one long piece (about 29" long after washing). It is turned sideways (the pattern weft runs vertically), folded, and boxed with the liner cuff stitched to the selvedge on one side. To weave the fabric for the cozy: *Weave the table (i in the draft) and then the bowknot (h); repeat from * three times; end with a fifth table. Weave an additional 16–18" of plain weave for the liner cuff (or you can use commercial fabric for this). FINISHING Remove the fabric from the loom and machine zigzag raw edges. Machine wash, dry, and press while still damp. Machine zigzag on both sides of the separating marker threads, cut pieces apart, and trim ends close to stitching. For the placemats, remove the smooth cords between the rows of hemstitching. Fold the edges under 1⁄2" and bring the fold up to meet the lower row of hemstitching. Sew the hem in place with matching cotton thread, overcasting to the hemstitched row or blind stitching. Repeat for both ends of all four placemats. tea cozy sewing and assembly For the tea cozy, use the assembly diagram, page 9, and follow these steps (study the diagram and your fabric and adjust for cuff size as necessary): 1. Overlap the 8" by 12" cuff pieces with the selvedge of the right side of the patterned fabric face up and stitch. 2. Fold fabric in half (right sides together), matching cuff pieces across center at EF in the layout diagram. Seam

                                                                         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

7

cuff and patterned fabric together at ABC, matching pattern carefully and sewing across centers of tables, tapering to cuff. (Notice that cuff is narrower than the outer cover so that it can be folded inside the padded liner snugly.) 3. Sew other edge of cuff and angle DE. 4. Box top corners F and CC. 5. Turn and hem ends of cuff AD and DA. Turn entire piece right side out. 6. Make fabric loop and stitch to center of top for lifter. 7. Insert the covered padded liner (with the open end

down) and tuck cuff up inside as far as it will go. Make the padded insides of the cozy by encasing the piece of foam rubber (or batt or stuffing) with a fitted cover of commercial fabric. Fold this covered pad in half (bringing the short ends together) and slip-stitch the side edges together, leaving the end open. Fit the woven cozy over the padded liner and turn the cuff of the cover to the inside. (The ends of the cuff can be anchored to each other, or the liner can be anchored to the cozy at the top of the inside by a strip of Velcro.) Get ready to serve tea!

Originally published in Handwoven®, March/April 1989, pp. 46, 80–82                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

                                                                         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

8

4x

Draft

4

2x

4

3

1

4

8x

4 1

c

1

2

1

2

4 1

4 1

1

4x

4

1

2

3

e 4 1

3

4

3

1

2

3

4 2

2

1

4

1

3

1

4x 3x 4x 2

3

3

2

4

2

1

4

3

1

3x 2

3

3

2

2

4

1

4

3

4

3

1

2

3

4 2

2

1

2x 3

1

2

b 4 1

2x 3

2

a

1

plain weave, tabby

2x 2

4

3

2x 3

2x 2

4 1

1

2x

2

4

3x

3

2

4

2

1

3

2

4

3

3

1

4 1

2

1

2

3

floating selvedges

2

2

2

3

4

3

4 1

3

3

4

1

3

2

1

4

3

2

3

2

3

4

3

1

2

4

1

2

3x 3

2

3

2

2

3

2

3

4

2

1

4

3

1

2

3

2

3

4

4

1

1

2

4

4 1

2

3

2

3

2

4

1

2

In the threading, a–b is the border b–c is the bowknot c–d is the table d–e is the second bowknot e–f is the second border

3

2

3

2

1

2

4

3

4

3

1

2

3

3

2x

4 1

2

3

4

g

/

1

border 1

1

2

3

4 2

1

2

d

2x

3

1

2

2

1

4

← cont’d.

3x 3

1

3

4

/

← cont’d.

3x

4x 3x 4x 3

3

4x 3x 4x

3x

1

4

1

3x

4 1

2

1

4 2

4x 3x 4x

3x

4

←cont’d.

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1

4

4 1

1

2

1

2

3

2

3

4

3

2x

4 1

2

3

4

5 1

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick, alternating treadles 1 and 2. Numbers in the treadling indicate the number of times to use each pattern treadle.

h

bowknot

3

1

assembling the cozy 1

A

12"

8"

B

E

F

D

12"

A

Front

Cuff

8"

B

Boxed Corner Folded Side

Weave 31⁄2" plain weave, hemstitch, insert a heavy cord, weave 4 picks plain weave, hemstitch, weave 4 picks plain weave. Weave border section g, bowknot section h, table section i, bowknot section h, border section j. Repeat plain weave and hemstitching in reverse.

4

2

1

To weave the tea cozy fabric:

i

table

C

Boxed Corner

Stitch

Seamed Side

1

2

4

4

2

1

1

2

4

4

2

1

1

1

3

5

4

2

1 1

2

4

5

3

1

1

2x 1

2x 1

4

5

3

1

2x

8

2x 1

3

5

3

1

2x

4

4

j

border

Taper

© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

5

Weave table section i, bowknot section h; repeat both three times, end with table section i.

Boxed Corner

Seam

3

To weave the placemats: Back

Cuff

D

C

1

8x

4

1

1

1

2x

To sew the tea cozy: Sew 8" by 12" cuff pieces to selvedge. Fold fabric in half (right sides together) at EF. Seam cuff and patterned fabric together at ABC, matching pattern carefully and sewing across centers of tables. Sew other edge of cuff and angle DE. Box top comers F and CC. Turn and hem ends of cuff AD and DA. Turn entire piece right side out. Make loop of fabric and stitch to center of top for lifter. Insert covered padded liner (open end down) and tuck cuff up inside as far as it will go.

Seam

                                                                         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

9

p i n e b l o o m C O V E R LE t K at h r y n W e r t e n b e r g e r PROJECT NOTES Many weavers dream of weaving a coverlet but dismiss it as too hard and taking too long. But just consider the amount of time that goes into weaving and finishing a set of eight placemats! A coverlet will take less than three times as long to weave, and the satisfaction that comes from creating something so large and so beautiful is worth the time invested. The yarns used for this coverlet are no longer available. Substitutions are suggested, and the draft and instructions have been adjusted to make them easier to use than in the original article. The instructions provide for winding and threading two completely different warps for the central and side panels. Planning the border designs for the side panels and the joining of side and center-panel designs is easier this way, and both warps contain a reasonably small number of threads. FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot. FINISHED DIMENSIONS Two side panels 271⁄2" by 113" each and one center panel 35" by 113" to make a coverlet 90" by113" (to fit a double bed). WARP and WEFT Warp: 8/2 worsted wool (2,240 yd/lb), 1,409 yd Cinnabar, 1,268 yd Sable, 2,044 yd Bittersweet, and 938 yd Real Red. Tabby weft: 8/2 worsted wool (2,240 yd/lb) 4,544 yd Cassis. Pattern weft: 8/3 Maine Line wool (1,490 yd/lb) 4,395 yd Mulberry. Yarn Sources JaggerSpun Maine Line 8/2 and 8/3 worsted wools are available from most weaving retailers. TOTAL WARP ENDS 378 ends for side panels, 470 ends for center panel (includes 2 floating selvedges in each warp). Warp Length Side panels: 83⁄4 yd (allows 20" for take-up and 53" for loom waste and sampling). Center panel: 5 yd (allows 10" take-up and 49" for loom waste and sampling). E.P.I. 12. WIDTH IN REED 311⁄2" for side panels, 391⁄6" for center panel. P.P.I. 12 in plain-weave areas; 24 in pattern areas (12 for tabby, 12 for pattern). © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 13% in width, 10% in length. WEAVing Wind the warp and thread the loom for the side panels first. Weave 2" plain weave for hem using 8/2 Cassis as weft. Then weave pattern with the 8/3 Mulberry pattern weft following the treadling in the draft and using tabby (before each pattern pick, weave a tabby pick with Cassis, alternating between treadles 1 and 2). End with 2" plain weave for second hem. Weave the second panel the same way as the first (you will rotate this panel 90 degrees and place it on the opposite side of the center panel as the first side panel). To keep the panels the same length and make sure that all motifs are the same size, cut a strip of addingmachine tape about 11 ft long. Pin this tape along the web as you weave and mark the pattern-block changes (don’t allow the tape to roll onto the cloth beam). Make the marks while the warp is under regular weaving tension (never mark this tape when tension has been released). When you start the second panel, reverse the tape so the motifs will match when the second panel is rotated. Remove the two panels from the loom. Wind the warp and thread the loom for the center panel. Begin and end with 2" plain weave for hems and follow the treadling for the center panel in the same ways as you did for the side panels. Again, pin and use the tape to be sure the motifs match. (Pin the tape to the center panel in the same direction as for the first side panel. You‘ll then match the center panel to the first side panel and rotate the second side panel. Luckily, wool is very forgiving, so slight discrepancies won’t matter as long as your panels are all close to the same lengths.) Remove the center panel from the loom. FINISHING Machine zigzag raw edges. Machine wash the panels separately, cool water, with small amount of liquid detergent. Agitate on a gentle cycle for only 1 minute. Rinse. Fill and rinse again (without agitation) adding fabric softener. Spin only until all the water is removed. Hang or lay flat to dry. Press. ASSEMBLY Using the warp yarn, abut the selvedges and stitch panels together with a figure-eight stitch, catching loops from the tabby weft and matching motifs. Trim and fold the ends up twice for a narrow hem so that the first fold is at the start of the pattern areas and sew hems by hand with tabby-weft yarn. Steam press.         

handwovenmagazine.com

10

2x 4x 4x 4x 3x

Draft for center panel

B

B

B C

B

C

C

5x

C

S

S

5x 5x

S

B

B

5x

124 shaft 4 136 shaft 3 110 shaft 2 98 shaft 1

C

S

S

5x 5x

S

B

B

S

S

S

C

2x S

C

S

B

B

B

R

B

B

B

S

R

S

S

C

B

S

B

R

B

B

B

S

R

2x

C

B

3x 2x 3x 2x

/ = tabby weft

2x 3x

2x

2x 5x

S

B = Bittersweet R = Real Red

5x

C

B

R

C = Cinnabar S = Sable

Heddle count

B

R

2x 3x

2x

S

2x 5x

S

B

B

B

R

S

S

C

2x

C

S

S

2x 5x

S

B

B

B

R

B

B

B

B

S

R

S

S

C

2x

C

S

S

5x 5x S

B

S

S

C

C

plain weave, tabby

2x 5x

S

B

B

R

= floating selvedges

3x 2x 3x 2x

5x

B

B

R

B

/

←cont'd

5x B

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1

B

S

S

S

C

C

11 5

B C

B

C

C

C

5x S

S

S

5x 5x

5

B

B

B

R

R

B

2x 3x

2x B

B

S

S

S

C

C

2x S

S

S

2x 5x

B

B

B

R

B

2x 3x

2x B

B

S

R

S

S

C

C

3x 2x 5x 6x 5x 4x 4x 5x

2x S

S

S

B

B

B

R

B

B

R

S

S

B

C

B

C

C

C

plain weave, tabby Heddle count

99 shaft 4 111 shaft 3 89 shaft 2 77 shaft 1

2x 5x 4x 4x 3x 6x 5x 5x

B

376

B

B

C

B

C

C

C

S

S

B

B

R

B

2x 3x

2x B

B

R

S

S

S

C

C

2x S

S

S

2x 5x

B

B

B

R

B

5x B

R

B

←cont'd

5x

S

S

S

5

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 /

/

6

8 8 11 5

6

5

5

2x

3x

11

3x

100 10 10 10 10 10 10 148 11 5 5 5 5 11 8 8 11 5 5 5 5 11 124 11 5 5 5 5 11 11 5 5 5 5 11 98 11 6 6 6 8 6 6 6 11 470

Real Red (R) Bittersweet (B) Sable (S) Cinnabar (C)

warp color order for side panels 2x

5

10 10 10 10 10 50 149 11 10 5 5 11 8 11 5 5 5 5 12 8 8 74 12 5 5 11 11 5 5 5 5 10 105 6 6 8 6 6 6 8 11 8 378

5 11

6

6

8

© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

        

11

2x

8 8

6

4x

5

11

2x 11

5 5

10 6

5

5

3x

5 5

10 11

8

2x

6

11

5 5

10 6

8

5

4x

5

10 6

11

5

5

8

5

5

5

3x

5

10 6

11

11

5

6

11

10

8

5

5

11

8

5

10

8

6

8

11

2x

10

8

2x

11

10

5

6

Real Red (R) Bittersweet (B) Sable (S) Cinnabar (C)

11

10

3x

3x

5

5

10

6

5

8 6

6

5

11

6 5

5

10

8

5

5

5

8

6

5

6

6

5

10

8

11

11

5

10

8

11

5

10

8

5

6

warp color order for center panel

11

10 6

5

5

11

10

6

2x

8

6

6

Draft for side panels

2x

8

8

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (alternating between treadles 1 and 2). Numbers in the treadling indicate the number of times to use each pattern pick, alternating with tabby. Adjust this number, if necessary, to square the blocks.

3x 4x 4x 3x

6

8

5x 3x

R

/

5 5

10 6 8

11

2x

6

handwovenmagazine.com

11

Originally published in Handwoven®, Fall/Winter 1980, pp. 47, 70–71                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

        

handwovenmagazine.com

12

Overshot Runner with Border G e n e E . Va l k

FINISHED DIMENSIONS 155⁄8" wide by 48" long. WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 22/2 cottolin (50% linen, 50% cotton) at 3,170 yd/lb, 1,400 yd dark brown. Pattern weft: Linnay (50% linen, 50% rayon, 1,200 yd/lb) from Scott’s Woolen Mill was used for this project and is no longer available. Substitute 3/2 pearl cotton (1,260 yd/lb), Light Rust #108, or Berroco’s NaturLin (55% rayon/45% linen, 1,052 yd/lb, 115 yd/50 g ball), Cinnamon, 422 yd. Yarn Sources Cottolin and 3/2 pearl cotton by UKI are available from most weaving retailers. Berroco’s NaturLin is available from most knitting shops (for a store near you, see www.berroco.com). E.P.I. 20. WIDTH IN REED 181⁄5". © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

              

2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 /

2

2 2

2

2

2

2 2

2

3

2 2

3

3 1

2

2 2

2

2x

2

1

2

2

2 2

3

2

2

3 3

2x

repeat

PROJECT NOTES Draft 2x 2x 1 Too often, one sees examples of poorly designed 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 pattern weaving. Part of the total “picture” of a 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 pattern-woven placemat, dresser scarf, rug, or / floating selvedges plain weave, tabby afghan is the use of a suitable frame or border. Even ← cont’d. 9x if a border is not desired, the repeats should be 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 planned so that the viewer’s eye is not carried off at 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 a tangent but continues around and back to the main 1 1 1 1 pattern. I always encourage my students to center ← cont’d. 2x 2x their patterns and design appropriate borders, even 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 for samples. Someday they might want to frame a 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 sampler or combine several as a wall hanging. Here Heddle count Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, are some handy tips for arranging suitable borders: weave a tabby pick (alternate between 109 shaft 4 treadles 1 and 2). Numbers in the 1. Use one or two twill repeats for borders with very small shaft 3 116 treadling sequence indicate the number 72 shaft 2 of times to use each pattern treadle, repeating patter ns. Sometimes reversing the twill shaft 1 64 alternating with tabby. 361 creates added interest. Another option is to thread point twills to get diamond border motifs. TOTAL WARP ENDS 363 (includes 2 floating 2. Repeat a small portion of the pattern. Find the turning selvedges). block and repeat from that block to the next turning block. WARP LENGTH 3. Use a compatible table, circle, or star motif and draft 21⁄2 yd (allows 3" for take-up and 33" for it as the border; it becomes a corner unit that weaves as a loom waste). border when the central units are woven. 4. Decrease the size of pattern blocks, in proportion, to P.P.I. 20 in plain-weave areas, 30 in pattern gain extra ends needed for the desired number of pattern areas (15 for tabby weft and 15 for pattern weft). repeats or to gain enough ends for a border. Take-up and Shrinkage FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot. 13% in width and 6% in length.

3 3

2

2x

2

2

2

2

2x

Warping and weaving This draft is adapted from Marguerite Porter Davison’s A Handweaver’s Pattern Book, Snowballs, page 181. The treadling sequence gives the pattern picks only. Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick, alternating between treadles 1 and 2. Weave 3" of plain weave and then follow the treadling sequence. The border (the section before the repeat) measures about 22⁄3"; each repeat is about 11⁄4". Weave the repeat until the pattern part of the runner measures about 48", then follow the rest of the treadling sequence and end with 3" of plain weave for the second hem. FINISHING Remove the fabric from the loom. Machine zigzag edges to prevent raveling. Machine wash on a gentle cycle using lukewarm water and a liquid detergent. Line dry. Steam press using press cloth. Turn ends under twice and sew hems by hand. Steam press again.          h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

13

Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1983, Cover, pp. 83, 109                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

        h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

14

country overshot table mat janice jones Draft 4x

= brown 16/2 cotton

= unbleached 16/2 cotton

= blue 16/2 cotton

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1

plain weave, tabby /

= tan 16/2 cotton

4x ← cont’d.

/

3 7 7 3

brown

6

3 unbleached

brown

6 7

←

cont’d.

warp color order 4x

12 3 224 28 28 3 10 10 95 3 19 19 190 19 19 521

3 7 7

blue tan unbleached brown

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (alternating between treadles 1 and 2).

3

7 7

PROJECT NOTES Elegant and graceful, this table mat will bring lasting pleasure to all who see it. You’ll find the pattern-on-pattern effect of overshot on a plaid background always interesting and appealing to look at. Consider using the draft and color order with color choices of your own. In this piece, the pattern weft is a single color throughout. Color changes occur in the warp and in the tabby weft, creating the plaid background for the overshot patterning.

3

3 3 tan

6

4x

unbleached

3 blue

unbleached

6 7

3

Tabby colors:

6

3 tan 3

brown 3 unbleached

6

brown

WARP LENGTH 11⁄2 yd (allows 2" for take-up and 32" for loom waste). E.P.I. 30. WIDTH IN REED 172⁄5".

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot.

P.P.I. 42 (21 for tabby, 21 for pattern).

FINISHED DIMENSIONS 151⁄2" square with hems on all four sides.

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 10% in width and length.

WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 16/2 unmercerized cotton at 6,300 yd/lb, 181 yd unbleached, 430 yd tan, 395 yd brown, and 25 yd blue. Pattern weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/lb, Flaxon #91 (cream), 300 yd.

WEAVING Weave 1⁄2" at the beginning and end of the mat with brown 16/2 for hems. Then follow the treadling sequence in the draft using the colors indicated for the tabby weft and 10/2 Flaxon for the pattern weft. Weave a tabby pick before every pattern pick.

Yarn Sources 16/2 unmercerized cotton is available from Glimåkra USA and Lone Star Loom Room. 10/2 UKI pearl cotton is available from most weaving retailers. Notions and other materials Cream sewing thread. TOTAL WARP ENDS 521. © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

FINISHING Machine zigzag raw edges. Wash the mat by hand in warm water with a mild detergent. When it is almost dry, press the wrong side with a hot iron. Turn under plain-weave raw edges and then turn under all four edges along the unbleached stripe in the first brown section. Miter the corners and sew hems by hand.          h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

15

Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1985, pp. 48–51, instruction supplement: 7–8 © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

              

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

16

Inlaid Overshot Placemats Av i s P e r r y

PROJECT NOTES For these placemats, I started by designing an original 4-block profile draft. I then miniaturized it and interpreted it in a 4-block overshot threading. Since I wanted the inlay motifs using this design to alternate in my final piece, I first drafted each motif on a separate set of four shafts and used two more shafts (for a total of ten) to thread plain weave between motifs. In this four-shaft version, the 4-shaft design is repeated across the entire warp and the inlay weft simply placed where the motifs are desired. FABRIC DESCRIPTION Plain weave and overshot.

WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 16/2 unmercerized cotton at 6,350 yd/lb: 2,370 yd tan. Pattern weft: 6-strand cotton embroidery floss at 2,080 yd/lb: 208 yd off-white. YARN SOURCES 16/2 cotton by Borgs (#0216) is available from Glimåkra USA. Embroidery floss is available from craft, sewing, weaving, and knitting stores. TOTAL WARP ENDS 420. WARP LENGTH 31⁄4 yd (includes 4" take-up and 29" loom waste). E.P.I. 30. WIDTH IN REED 14". P.P.I. 30. TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 7% in width and 10% in length. WEAVING Allowing 11⁄2" unwoven for fringe, weave 11⁄2" plain weave and hemstitch over the first 4 picks, including 4 ends in each stitch. To weave the inlay, treadle the first pattern pick (treadle 6) and find the five inlay pattern areas, each bordered by a

      

5x

7x 5x 4

4 1

4 1

1

2

3

4

3

2

3

2

3

3x 4

13x 3

4

3

2

3

2

3

4

3

4 2

1

plain weave, tabby

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 /

/

1

2

Numbers in the treadling indicate number of inlay weft rows in each set of inlay designs. Before every inlay weft row, weave a tabby pick.

4

3

4

2 2

1 1

2

FINISHED DIMENSIONS Four placemats—each 13" wide by 16" long with 11⁄2" fringe on each end.

© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Draft

               

3 2

2x

1

1 4 4 1

ten-thread warp group threaded on shafts 1 and 4. Using a butterfly of embroidery floss for each area, inlay the pattern weft in the first, third, and fifth pattern areas, tucking the tails back into the row. Weave a pick of tabby. Treadle the second pattern pick and continue the inlay in this manner, following each pattern inlay row with a pick of tabby. When the first three inlaid squares have been completed, weave 1" plain weave. Inlay the next set of squares in the second and fourth pattern areas; follow with 1" plain weave. Continue, alternating the inlaid areas in checkerboard fashion with 1" plain weave between sets of squares, ending with the first, third, and fifth areas (there will be five rows of inlay designs). Weave 11⁄2" plain weave, hemstitch, and leave 3" unwoven for fringes between placemats. Repeat for each of four total placemats. (Another option is to plan hems for the placemats since repeated washings can fray cotton fringes. Add 11⁄2" plain weave to each end of each mat. To reduce hem bulk, you can weave 1" of this section with sewing thread weft.) FINISHING Remove the placemats from the loom and cut apart in the middle of the unwoven fringes between mats. Machine wash on gentle cycle; line dry. Steam press face down.

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

17

Originally published in Handwoven®, January/February 1995, pp. 60, 88                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

18

Overshot Pincushions Sue Beevers

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot. FINISHED DIMENSIONS Ten pin­cushions, each 4" wide by 3" long.

YARN SOURCEs 10/2 pearl cotton and 8/2 Maine Line wool by JaggerSpun are available from most weaving retailers. NOTIonS and other materials Matching sewing thread; size 0 crochet hook. TOTAL WARP ENDS 213. WARP LENGTH 21⁄4 yd (allows 4" take-up and 27" loom waste). E.P.I. 24. WIDTH IN REED 87⁄8". P.P.I. Blue pincushions: 40 (20 for tabby, 20 for pattern). Pink pincushions: 39 (13 for tabby, 26 for pattern). TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 10% in width and length. © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

3

4 1

2

8x 3

4 1

2

1

2

3

B = blue pattern weft D = dark pink pattern weft L = light pink pattern weft

2

3

4

3

4

3

4

3

2

3

4 2

1

2

1

3

4 2

1

plain weave, tabby

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1

3 3 /

/

For the blue pincushions, use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (alternate between treadles 1 and 2). B represents the pattern picks only.

B

For the pink pincushions: Weave 1 tabby pick after every 2 (DL) pattern picks (i.e., weave dark pink, light pink, tabby).

B B B B B B

WEAVING For the blue pincushions: Begin and end with 1 ⁄ 2" plain weave using white pearl cot­ton. Weave three repeats of the pattern, using blue wool pattern weft alternating with cotton tabby weft. Repeat for five pincushions. For the pink pincushions: Begin and end with 1⁄ 2" plain weave using white pearl cot­ton. Weave three repeats of the pattern, following each pair of dark pink (D) and light pink (L) pattern picks with 1 pick of cotton tabby weft. Repeat for five pincushions. FINISHING Remove the fabric from the loom. Wash by hand in warm water; lay flat to dry. Steam press.

ASSEMBLY Cut pincushions apart. With right sides together, fold each cushion in half, joining the selvedges and being careful to center the pattern. Sew around the edges, leaving an opening for turn­ ing and stuffing; turn right side out. Stuff with thrums; sew the opening shut by hand. For each blue pincush­ion: make a twisted cord with 6 strands (3 blue, 3 white). Tie overhand knots at each corner and trim resulting tassels to I". Sew edging to the pincushion. For each pink pincushion: uwsing light pink wool and a cro­chet hook, make a chain long enough to go around the cushion. Row 2: Chain 5 and join to the third loop of the first row. Repeat to the end. Sew the edging to the pincushion, tuck­ing the ends inside the cushion.

B

B

B B B

B B B

B

L

B B

B B

L

D

L

D D L L

D

L

D

L L L L

D

D L L

L

D

D

D

D

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

D

D

D

L

B B

L

L D

B B

D

D L

B

B

L

D L

B

pink pincushion

WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/lb, 712 yd white. (A very fine gold metallic that is no longer available was used for alternate tabby picks in the blue pincushion.) Pattern weft: 8/2 wool at 2,240 yd/lb:120 yd French Blue (blue), 90 yd Rose (light pink), and 80 yd Raspberry (dark pink) for pattern weft. Amounts are enough for five blue pincushions and five pink pincushions.

Draft

blue pincushion

PROJECT NOTES These pincushions are an ideal way to begin your exploration of overshot if you’ve never tried it before. Two different treadlings are used with a single threading for the pincushions. After you’ve used both of the treadlings, you’ll be ready to create your own. Crocheted edging, tassels, and twisted cord made from thrums and leftover bobbin wefts finish the pincushions with panache. (The blue pin­cushion has a twisted cord made from thrums and leftover bobbin weft sewn to the edge and tied in fringed knots at each corner; the pink pincushions feature a crocheted finish for a lacier look. The designs are variations of Johann Schleelein’s draft no. 123, page 131, from A Handweaver’s Pattern Book by Marguerite Porter Davison (see also pages 3–4 and 21–22 in this book).

D

19

Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1991, pp. 79, 96–97                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

              

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Bordered overshot Runner Sue Beevers

3

4

14x 3

4

3

4

3

2

3

4 2

1

2

1

3

4 2

1

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1

plain weave, / / tabby R /

This treadling section shows all picks, tabby and pattern.

/

FINISHED DIMENSIONS 14" wide by 22" long, including a 13⁄4" hem on each end. This is a small runner, table-mat size. For each additional 12" of runner length, add 14" to warp length.

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (alternate between treadles 1 and 2).

Brooks’ Bouquet

P P

/ /

P

P P P P

WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/ lb, 1,000 yd cream or natural. Pattern weft: 8/2 wool at 2,240 yd/lb: 200 yd pink. Accent weft: 3/2 pearl cotton at 1,260 yd/lb, 2 yd rose. For each additional 12" of woven runner, add 290 yd for warp/tabby weft and 130 yd for pattern weft. YARN SOURCES 10/2, pearl cotton, 3/2 pearl cotton, and 8/2 Maine Line wool by JaggerSpun are available from most weaving retailers. TOTAL WARP ENDS 373. WARP LENGTH 13⁄4 yd (allows 4" take-up and 29" loom waste).

WIDTH IN REED 152⁄3". P.P.L 24 in plain-weave areas, 40 in pattern areas (20 for tabby, 20 for pattern).

P P

P

P P

P P

P

P

P

P

P

WEAVING For the runner: Weave 21⁄2" plain weave, border pattern, 1" plain weave. Work a row of Brooks’ bouquet and end the border with 1⁄2" plain weave. Weave 20" following the pattern repeat. End the runner with the border and Brooks’ bouquet, but in reverse. (Work the Brooks’ bou­quet on an open plain-weave shed, not on a closed shed as shown in the diagram.) Add 123⁄4" woven length of the pattern repeat for each desired additional 12" finished runner length.

ASSEMBLY Turn under the raw edges and fold up to just below the Brooks’ bouquet and sew hems by hand with the warp yam. Blindstitch to close hem openings along the selvedges.

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 10% in width and 13% in length.

      

P P

P

FINISHING Machine zigzag each end of the runner to secure raw edges. Machine wash in warm water with mild detergent. Lay flat to dry and steam press lightly.

E.P.I. 24.

© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

P

P

pattern repeat; use tabby

This section shows only the pattern picks.

/

/

R

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot.

/

border

Draft PROJECT NOTES Soft pink overshot patterning gives a dainty look to 4 4 3 3 3 this runner with its wide hem bands. Contrasting a 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 heavily patterned area with a wide plain border R = rose 3/2 cotton can be an effective design finish. In this runner, a P = pink 8/2 wool / = natural 10/2 cotton row of Brooks’ bouquet just before the hem adds to the delicate feeling. The small wheel pattern is Johann Schleelein’s draft #123, page 131, from Marguerite Porter Davison’s A Handweaver’s Pattern Book (see also pages 3–4 and 19–20 in this book).

               

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Originally published in Handwoven®, May/June 1991, pp. 73, 86                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

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Wedding-Present Pillows Nancy arthur Hoskins Draft

1

2

3

2x

4 1

2

1

2

1

2

3

2

3

2

4

3

2

1

2

1

2

4

1

1

4

4

1

3

4

2x 4

3

3

4

1

4

4

1

1

4 1

1

2

1

2

3

2

3

4

5x

3

4

3

4 1

2

3

4

3

4 2

5x 3

4

3

4

3

1

2

floating selvedges

4x

1

2

3

4 1

2

1

2

3

3

4 2

1

2

4x 3

2

1

1

plain weave, tabby

2

3

4

5x

3

4

3

4 1

2

3

4

3

4 2

5x 3

4

3

4

3

1

2

3

4 2

1

2

1

4 1

4 1

PrOJECT NOTES This pair of pillows was woven as a very special wedding present to be used as kneeling cushions during the ceremony and decorative pillows afterwards. The large overshot design (a modification of one from Marguerite Porter Davison’s A Handweaver’s Pattern Book) is selected for its combination of a single floral ring and the cruciform motifs in the tables, symbolizing the wedding theme and complementing the bride’s traditional tastes. The pillow backs are plain weave, woven on the same warp. A silk warp and tabby weft with a wool pattern weft give the pillows an heirloom quality. FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot and plain weave. FINISHED DIMENSIONS Two pillows, each 151⁄2" square and 4" thick. WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 8/2 medium spun silk at 1,980 yd/ lb, 1,678 yd natural. Pattern weft: 8/3 wool at 1,490 yd/ lb, 263 yd French Blue. YARN SOURCES 8/2 medium spun silk is available from The Silk Tree. 8/3 Maine Line wool by JaggerSpun is available from most weaving retailers. Notions and other supplies Matching off-white sewing thread; two 16" square pillow forms. TOTAL WARP ENDS 303 (includes 2 floating selvedges). WARP LENGTH 31⁄4 yd (allows 5" take-up and 28" loom waste). E.P.I. 16. WIDTH IN REED 191⁄8". P.P.I. 16 in the plain-weave areas, 24 in pattern areas (12 for tabby, 12 for pattern). © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

4 1

2x 3

4

3

4

3

4

4 1

4 1

2x

4 1

1

2

1

2

1

2

3

2

3

←cont’d.

2

3

4 2

1

2

1

2

3

1

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick alternating treadles 1 and 2. Numbers in the treadling indicate the number of times to weave each pattern pick.

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 /

/

2

2

4 4

2 1

1

1 1

2

4

4

TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 15% in width and length. wEAVING Begin and end each pillow face with about 1" of off-white silk plain weave for seam allowance. Hemstitch the beginning and end of each pillow face, if desired. Then weave one repeat of the pattern using the blue wool as pattern weft and the natural silk as tabby weft (the pattern section will be about 19" long under tension). Use spacers, contrasting marker threads, or extra plain weave to separate each pillow face from the next. I wove the two overshot pillow faces first, measured each of them (including plain-weave seam allowances), and wove matching lengths of natural silk plain weave for the backs. ASSEMBLY If you did not hemstitch the ends of each section, machine zigzag the raw edges of the two pillow faces and the two pillow backs. Cut the pieces apart. For each pillow, place a face and a back together, right sides together, aligning the edges. Stitch three of the four edges and turn right side out. (A narrow twill is threaded on both sides of the overshot design to act as seam allowance.) Embroider the pillow backs with monogram, initials, or date, as desired. Insert the pillow form into each pillow cover and blindstitch the fourth edge shut, turning seam allowances to the inside.

4 4 2 4

2

4 2 4

1 1

1

1

                                                                         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

4x

4 2 4

1

1

4

2

4

1 1

2

4 2 4

2

4x

1

2

4

2

2

4

4

1

1

4

4

1

1

4

4

2

4x

2

4 2

2

4

1 2

4x

23

Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1990, pp. 55, 76–77                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

                                                                         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

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Name-draft overshot Scarf Gisela Evitt

draft 3

2

3 1

6x 4

2

1

2

1

4 1

4 1

4 1

2

1

2

1

4 1

2

1

2

1

4 1

4 1

1

2

1

2

3

2

3

4

3

4

3

4

3

2

3

4 2

1

2

1

4 1

4 1

4 1

2

1

2

1

4 1

2

1

Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, weave a tabby pick (alternating between treadles 1 and 2). P = pattern weft

2

1

4 1

FINISHED DIMENSIONS 81⁄2" wide by 60" long plus 3" fringe at each end. WARP and WEFT Warp: 20/2 pearl cotton at 8,400 yd/lb, 831 yd natural. Tabby weft: 60/2 Bombyx silk at 15,000 yd/lb, 555 yd blue gray. Pattern weft: for the handspun kid mohair singles at 2,800 yd/lb, substitute 8/2 Heather worsted wool at 2,240 yd/lb in Cobalt, Boysenberry, and Amber: 520 yd total. Yarn Sources 60/2 Bombyx silk is available from Treenway Silks; JaggerSpun Heather wools are available from most weaving retailers. WARP LENGTH 3 yd (allows 4" take-up and 29" loom waste). E.P.I. 30. WIDTH IN REED 91⁄4".

© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

plain weave, tabby

277

/

/

P P P

shaft 4 shaft 3 shaft 2 shaft 1

TOTAL WARP ENDS 277.

P P P

P P P

P P P

P P P P P P

P P P P P P

P.P.I. 54 (27 for tabby, 27 for pattern). TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 7% in width and 10% in length. WEAVING Allow 4" unwoven warp at each end for fringe. Using the 60/2 silk tabby weft, weave 1 ⁄4" plain weave; hemstitch over the first 4 picks including 4 ends in each stitch. Weave for 67", alternating tabby and pattern following the treadling repeat in the draft. (To imitate the space-dyed look of this scarf, change weft colors randomly, sometimes after a complete repeat, sometimes in the center of one.) End with 1⁄4" plain weave in 60/2 silk and hemstitch as at the beginning. FINISHING Remove the scarf from the loom. Knot a doubled length of 60/2 silk into each hemstitched group of fringe to add to fringe bulk. Trim fringe evenly to 3". Handwash the scarf in warm water with a mild detergent. Dry flat.

P P P P

P P

P P P P

P P P

P P P

repeat

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot.

1

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1

Heddle count 67 40 70 100

PROJECT NOTES From among the 1,752 name drafts we developed for the registrants of Convergence 1990 in San Jose, California, I chose Harriett E. Ringold’s name to use as the draft for a scarf featuring my handspun mohair as the pattern weft. This scarf, like the runner on pages 1–2, was among several pieces we displayed at the conference so that participants could see how their name drafts might be used.

4

P P P P P P

P P P

P P P

         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

P P P P P P

25

Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1997, pp. 39, 79                     © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

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Runner for an Antique Chest Donna Lee adams draft R

R

R

1 2 3 4 5 6 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 R R R R R R R R R R R 1 1 1 R R R R R R R R R R R R R R plain weave, tabby R 1 ← cont'd. 8x 1 1 R W W W W W W W W 1 R R R R R W W W W W W W W 1 W R R R R R R W W W W W W W 8 W W W R W W W W W W 1 7 ← cont'd. 4 4 R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R 4 R R R R R R 7 1 R R R R R R R R R R R R 8 1 Use tabby: Before every pattern pick, 1 = floating selvedges 1 weave a tabby pick (alternate between R = red 10/2 cotton 1 treadles 1 and 2). Numbers in the treadling W = white (ivory) 10/2 cotton 1 sequence indicate the number of pattern 1 picks to weave using that treadle 1 (alternating with tabby). 1 1 1 4 1 3 2 2 2 3 white (ivory) 10/2 cotton 257 257 1 110 55 55 red 10/2 cotton 4 1 367 1 1 1 1 R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

R

25x (pattern)

warp color order

border

PROJECT NOTES Woven to complement an Empire chest of drawers, this runner features a border created by expanding the threading for the central star motif and its neighboring joins. Choosing red for the border warp and tabby weft threads provides even greater contrast with ivory threads in the central field. The runner has a traditional look that complements the antique chest while also being unique in design.

R

FABRIC DESCRIPTION Overshot. FINISHED DIMENSIONS 141⁄2" wide by 361⁄4" long. Hems use an additional 1" at each end. WARP and WEFT Warp and tabby weft: 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200 yd/lb, 900 yd Flaxon #91 (ivory), 294 yd Red #12. Pattern weft: 8/2 worsted wool at 2,240 yd/lb: 428 yd black. YARN SOURCES 10/2 pearl cotton by UKI and 8/2 worsted wool by JaggerSpun are available from most weaving retailers. NOTIONS and other materials Red sewing thread.

TAKE-UP 5% in width and 4% in length. WEAVING Start with 1" plain weave using the red cotton as weft. Then weave the first border using red cotton tabby weft and JaggerSpun black pattern weft. Weave the center repeat of the runner 25 times using ivory tabby weft and JaggerSpun black pattern weft. Then weave the second border in the same way as the first and end with another 1" of plain weave in red for the second hem. FINISHING Cut the runner from the loom, trim the plain-weave hem sections to 3⁄4", and machine stitch to secure raw edges. Fold under 1⁄4" and bring the fold to the first row of the pattern for a 1⁄2" hem. Sew hems by hand. Press with a hot iron over a wet pressing cloth and treat with a protective fabric spray. To care for the finished piece, dry clean.

TOTAL WARP ENDS 367 (includes 2 floating selvedges). WARP LENGTH 2 yd (allows 4" take-up and 27" loom waste). E.P.I. 24. WIDTH IN REED 151⁄2". © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

P.P.I. 48 (24 for tabby, 24 for pattern).

      

               

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Originally published in Handwoven®, January/February 1995, pp. 56, 87                      © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

      

               

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tips for planning, hemstitching, and fringing overshot tips Use tabby. Overshot fabrics consist of a plain-weave ground cloth patterned with a weft that is usually thicker (as much as three times) than the ground-cloth yarns. When you weave, the tabby weft always alternates with the pattern weft. (This is what is meant by “Use tabby” when tabby picks are not shown in the treadling draft to save space.) It’s a good idea to establish a consistent shuttle order (such as always weaving a tabby pick first, followed by a pattern pick) and a shuttle position (always entering the tabby shuttle from the same side as the tabby treadle you are using followed by the pattern shuttle, also from that side). Sett considerations. To determine warp sett for overshot, choose the sett that would produce plain weave with the warp and tabby-weft yarn (24 ends per inch for 10/2 cotton, for example). In theory, the tabby weft should be 24 picks per inch for a 50/50 plain-weave cloth (as many picks per inch as ends per inch). It is usually difficult to beat in both pattern and tabby wefts so this will happen (48 total ppi). If it’s not possible, the most common solution is to reduce the number of picks in selected blocks without changing their proportion. Other options are to slightly loosen the warp sett or use a slightly finer tabby-weft yarn than the warp yarn. Finishing. If the pattern weft is wool, wash the fabric in cool water with little or no agitation to keep shrinkage and fulling to a minimum. Check color fastness of all pattern wefts. If there is any potential for bleeding, roll in towels to remove excess water and press until dry. © Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

T w is t in g ( o r pl y in g ) t h e f r in g e Divide the number of threads for each fringe into two groups. Twist each group clockwise until it kinks. Bring both groups together and allow them to twist around each other counterclockwise (or twist them together in that direction). Secure the ends with an overhand knot. (Use the same method to make a plied cord by attaching one end to a stationary object.)

S i m pl e h e m s t i t c h in g Weave several picks of plain weave, ending with the shuttle on the right side if you are right-handed, left side if you are left-handed. Measure a length of weft three times the warp width and cut, leaving the measured length as a tail. Thread the tail into a blunt tapestry needle. Take the needle under a selected group of ends above the fell and bring it up and back to the starting point, encircling the group. Pass the needle under the same group of ends, bringing it out through the weaving two (or more) weft threads below the fell. Repeat for each group of ends across the fell. Needle-weave the tail into the selvedge and trim. (See * below.) d o u b l e ( i talian ) h e m s t i t c h in g Weave several picks plain weave, ending with the shuttle on the right side if right-handed, left side if left-handed. Measure a length of weft four times the warp width and cut, leaving the measured length as a tail. Thread the tail into a blunt tapestry needle. Take the needle under a selected group of warp ends above the fell and bring the needle back to encircle the ends. Next, pass the needle under the same ends but come up two or more weft rows down from the fell. Then bring the needle back around the same group of ends below the fell. Then begin again, encircling the next group of ends. (See * below.) *For both methods: To hemstitch the first end of a piece, weave a header, weave four or five picks of plain weave (or of the basic weave structure used in the piece), and hemstitch over the top two or three weft rows. Weave the piece and then hemstitch the other end over the last two or three weft rows. Remove the fabric from the loom and discard the header and weft threads below the first hemstitching.

                                                                         h a n d w o v e n m a g a z i n e . c o m

29