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This
is
a
pattern to
crochet
.
pattern NBee⑧⑧e⑧¥÷÷÷÷÷ This
was
written
@ Chi
a
by
crafts
who hopes you'll enjoy
@chiacrafts
it
a
lot
all
!
Material used ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
3.5 mm hook 3.0 mm hook 2.5 mm hook 2.0 mm hook Tapestry needle Black safety eyes Stuffing (poly fiber fill is the best, otherwise some cotton wool will do) Dark brown yarn size 3-3.5 Light peach yarn size 3-3.5 Yellow-gold yarn size 3-3.5 Yellow yarn size 2.5 White yarn size 2 Red yarn size 3-3.5 (for flower only) Green yarn size 3-3.5 (for flower only)
Note: you can vary the size of the yarn, but you should keep the proportions. The thread you use for the clothes (especially for the top part) should be thinner than the one you use for the body! This is because the doll is very small, so her arms and body are very thin: cover it up with a shirt made with thick yarn would be like dressing you up with a t-shirt as thick as a winter coat :) When I had only size 3 yarn, I used to split the thread to make it thinner!
Dork
brown
Red
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Greeny
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@chiacrafts Yellow
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Gold
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light peach
Body Work the whole body (legs, torso and arms) using light peach yarn size 3-3.5 and a 2.0 hook.
Legs R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) R2-R13: 6 sc (6) For the first leg: make a slip stitch, pull out the yarn and cut it (leave a long tail in case some sewing should be needed). Instead, after making the second leg, don’t cut the yarn; you’ll keep on working from there to join the legs.
Torso First, we join the legs R14: 3 sc in 2nd leg, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16) R15: 16 sc (16) Now we’re enlarging to create the booty! R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18) R17: 18 sc (18) R18: 18 sc (18) R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16) Booty finished :) R20: 16 sc (16) R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14) R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10) R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8) R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Neck Now 2 rounds for the neck R26-R27: 6 sc (6) Neck done, now we start the head
Head R28: 6 inc (12) R29: 12 inc (24) R30: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)
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At this point, your stitch marker is probably somewhere behind Make enough stitches the doll’s back (use the booty as a reference to understand which is the front and which is the back). You must now make enough to move the stitch marker stitches to position the stitch marker right on the left side of the from here to there ! doll before moving on with the next round. Why this? Because we’re about to give an asymmetrical shape to the head to make the face… if you don't place the stitch marker Stitch marker Back correctly, you risk to end up with a doll facing left, right, or, even worse, with the head completely twisted around! Left side If you’re already close to the left side, you can simply continue with R31. Otherwise, you must make this additional stitches. If you’re indeed on the back, this operation should not increase the number of rounds on the face of the doll. However, if you , Front were somewhere just past the left shoulder, you are indeed adding one round to the face. It won’t impact a lot the look of the doll, you just have to keep in mind to place the eyes one round ! ← Booty higher than indicated :) [I've made 6 additional sc and placed the stitch marker on the last stitch before moving on with the next round] : R31: (1 sc, inc) x 9, 18 sc (45) R32-R33: 45 sc (45) R34: (2 sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38) R35-R40: 38 sc (38) R41: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36) Stop and place the safety eyes between round 35 and round 36 8 sc apart. Feel free to modify the position to where you feel it suits at best the personality of your doll. I personally think that placing the eyes very low and quite apart gives a sweeter look :) If you’d like to make an embroidery for the eyes, that’s the best moment to do it! R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30) R43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24) Keep stuffing while you close the head! R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18) R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12) R46: 6 dec (6) Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the loops of the last round, and pull. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the doll’s body.
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Arms Work with gold yellow yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.0 hook R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5) R2-R6: 5 sc (5) Change to light peach yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.0 hook
@chiacrafts
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R7: Inner loops only 5 sc (5) R8-R10: 5 sc (5) Then make a slip stitch, turn, make 2 sc, one more slip stitch. This should give you the curvature for the shoulders. You can also decide to stop at R10. Make 2. At the end of each arm, pull out the yarn and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the arms so that the upper part corresponds to round 23 of the body (right below the neck).
Dress Dress base (corset + skirt) Work with yellow yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook We’ll start in rows and join the two extremities to work in rounds later on. Row1: chain 11 (10) Row2: 10 sc (10) Row3: (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12) Row4: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14) Row5: (6 sc, inc) x 2 (16) Now we start working on the petticoat. Switch to white yarn size 2 and 2.0 hook Row6: work in front loops only 16 sc (16) Row7:(1 sc, inc) x 8 (24) Join the extremities (the loops left at round 6 should be at the extern, it’s important!) and start working in rounds R8: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36) R9: 36 sc (36) R10: (17 sc, inc) x 2 (38) R11: 38 sc (38) R12: (18 sc, inc) x 2 (40) R13: 40 sc (40) R14: (19 sc, inc) x 2 (42) R15: 42 sc (42) R16: (20 sc, inc) x 2 (44) R17: 44 sc (44) R18: inc, 42 sc, inc (46) R19: inc, 44 sc, inc (48) R20: sc, inc, 44 sc, inc, sc (50) R21: 2 sc, inc, 44 sc, inc, 2 sc (52) R22: 3 sc, inc, 44 sc, inc, 3 sc (54) @chiacrafts
picture of
the
naked body
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you
car
refer
Hourglass hope R23: 13 sc, inc, 26 sc, inc, 13 sc (56) R24: 14 sc, inc, 26 sc, inc, 14 sc (58) R25: (chain 2, sc) x 58 End with a slip stitch and fasten off. Hide the tail inside the skirt. We’re now moving on with the skirt. Start again from Row6 Work with yellow yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook Row6: work in front loops only 16 sc (16) Then move on following the same instruction as for the petticoat, but stopping at round 22. The aim is that the petticoat should be visible, so the skirt must be a bit shorter. When joining to work in loops after row 7, I joined it and started to work in the opposite direction compared to what I did for the petticoat (petticoat + skirt looks a bit like an hourglass, as in the picture). I did this because it was easier for working, but it also gave a nice texture effect: working this way, you’ll reverse the skirt at the end, meaning that the texture visible from the outside will actually be the inside one. Once the skirt is ready, end with a slip stitch and fasten off. With the tail left, sew a bit the skirt to the petticoat.
Shoulders straps Work with yellow yarn size 2.5 and 2.0 hook Each strap is Chain 13, 12 sc you can adjust the length.
Dress details (“draps”) Work with gold yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.0 hook Each piece is Chain 10, 9 slip stitches Leave a long tail both at the beginning and at the end. Make 3 knots between the tails. Make as many as you need (I made 7). Then sew them on the dress. I used the tails to do so (see graphical instructions). next one Use the tail of die drop to sew it to the .
then
use
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the with
same
tail
the
next
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d rap
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← @chiacrafts
both
to the dress
.
then
Bed
Dress the doll Put the dress on and sew it on the back. Then sew the shoulder straps to the dress on the front and on the back. Make a decor with gold yarn if you wish.
Hair Loose part Work with dark brown yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.5 hook You need to first prepare a chain (main chain) long 16. You’re going to crochet one single hair in each loop of this chain. Each hair is (chain 21, 20 sc) repeat x 15. You can add more hairs if needed (you must check for them to cover the back of the head circumference from 3-4 stitches from each eye). Once you’re done, pass a thread in all the loops of the main chain, pull and make a knot.
Loose
part
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Chignon Work with dark brown yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.0 hook R1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6) R2: 6 inc (12) R3: (2 sc, inc) x 4 (16) R4: (sc, inc) x 8 (24) R5-R7: 24 sc (24)
Sew the hair on the head
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Sew the center of the wig on top of the head, then sew all hairs except the 4 on the front to the head at round 42. Sew the same hairs also at round 36. Bend the remaining 4 hairs to create the wavy part on the front, and sew them to the back. Sew the chignon on top of the head, so that it covers the loose ends of the 4 hairs on the front. You should also stuff it a bit :) To make the headband, simply make a chain long enough with the yellow yarn, and tie it around the chignon (it’s also great to cover up imperfections!). . want ⑥ . .
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Shoes Work with yellow yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook. R1: chain 5 R2: work around the chain 5: 3 sc in second loop from hook, 2 sc, 2 sc in next loop (the first one made for the chain), turn around the chain and make other 2 sc (9) R3: 9 sc in inner loop only (9) R4: 2 dec, 5 sc (7) Make two shoes and sew them to the feet. To sew the shoes I usually do this: I first put the shoe on the foot, and I pass the tail inside all 7 sc of the last round with a tapestry needle. Then I pull to well fix the shoe and I pass the needle a couple of times inside the feet to fix it. At the end I make a knot and I hide the tail within the shoe.
Rose Work with red yarn size 3 and 2.0 hook. The rose is simply: (chain 2, 4 sc in second loop from hook) x 5 Then roll is and sew it For the leaves: Work with green yarn size 3 and 2.0 hook. (chain 3, sc in second loop from hook, double crochet) x 2
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And
we're
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I
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@chiacrafts
hope you enjoyed it unit
wait
to
see
the
is
result ! ! !
Chiara