Beautiful Bracelets

6 Inspiring

Bracelets Beautiful

A supplement to Bead&Button magazine

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Projects

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W

e beaders love making bracelets.

Pearl windows

3

Sparkling waves

4

Inviting vine

6

Daisies on the double

8

They work up quickly, offering us the instant gratification that we crave, yet

they’re substantial enough to stretch our skills and inspire our creativity. In this special supplement to Bead&Button magazine, we bring you instructions for six of our favorite easy-to-stitch bracelets that have appeared between our covers over the years. Requiring only

Collector’s item

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Arabesque bracelet

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Basics

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a needle and thread, a handful of beads, and a few easy-to-learn techniques, these projects make a great introduction to bead stitching if you’re a novice — or a satisfying project to make and wear if you’re a pro. Besides discovering the beautiful designs, you’ll learn different ways to apply the techniques used in these six projects, giving you a glimpse into the infinite combinations that make beading so compelling. Get out your bead stash and get ready to bead! – The editors of Bead&Button magazine

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fabulous bracelets?

Visit BeadAndButton.com today and search for projects to make from hundreds of bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and more. With scores of designs representing all skill levels, you’re sure to find several projects you’ll want to download.

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exclusive how-to videos demonstrating basic beading techniques subscriber-only projects a community forum where beaders come to talk “beads” tips to make beading easier listings of events, classes, and bead societies

1 LADDER STITCH

Pearl windows

materials bracelet 71⁄2 in. (19.1 cm) • 10–12 5 or 6 mm freshwater or faux pearls • 3 g Japanese size 1 (3 mm) bugle beads • Japanese seed beads 3 g size 110 1 g size 150 • shank button, 1⁄2–5⁄8-in. (1.3–1.6 cm) diameter • conditioned nylon beading thread • beading needles, #12 or #13

Make an easy-to-stitch bracelet with pearls framed by seed and bugle beads. designed by Katie Jo Glaves

c

stepbystep [1] On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of conditioned thread (Basics, p. 14), pick up two bugle beads, leaving an 8-in. (20 cm) tail. [2] Sew through both bugles again, and snug up the beads so they sit side by side (figure 1, a–b). [3] Pick up a bugle, sew through the previous bugle again, and continue through the bugle just added (b–c). Snug up the beads.

[4] Pick up three 110 seed beads, a pearl, and three 110s. Sew through the last bugle added, and continue through the first three 110s and the pearl (figure 2, a–b). [5] Pick up three 150s, and sew back through the pearl (b–c). Repeat on the other side of the pearl (c–d). [6] Pick up three 110s, a bugle, and three 110s. Sew through the pearl again, and continue through the first three 110s and the last bugle added (figure 3).

a b figure 1

c

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2 figure 3

LADDER STITCH

Sparkling waves

a

Waves of fire-polished beads accent a ladder stitch base.

b

[7] Pick up a bugle, and repeat steps 2–6 until your bracelet is within ½ in. (1.3 cm) of the desired length. End with step 3. [8] Pick up three 150s, the button, and three 150s, and sew through the last bugle added (photo a). Retrace the thread path a few times, secure the tail in the beadwork with a few half-hitch knots (Basics), and trim. [9] Thread a needle on the tail, pick up enough 150s to fit around the button, and sew through the end bugle (photo b). Retrace the thread path, secure the tail, and trim. w

Editor’s note:

Because their holes are large enough to accommodate five thread passes, faux pearls work best for this project. If you use real pearls, use the thinnest thread you can find and a #13 needle.

Katie Jo Glaves has been beading since 2004. She is studying psychology and art at Prescott College in Prescott, Ariz., in the U.S. Contact Katie Jo at [email protected], or visit her Web site, kjdesigns.biz.



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designed by Jan Zicarelli

stepbystep [1] On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of conditioned thread (Basics, p. 14), pick up four 80 cylinder beads, leaving a 1-yd. (.9 m) tail. Working in ladder stitch (Basics), sew through the four cylinders again, and snug up the beads so you have two side-by-side columns (figure 1, a–b). [2] Pick up two cylinders, and sew through the last pair of cylinders and the cylinders just added again (b–c). Continue adding pairs of cylinders until your band is the desired length and the number of rows is divisible by three with one remainder. To

MATERIALS bracelet 63⁄4 in. (17.1 cm) • 199 3 mm oval fire-polished beads • 7 g size 80 Japanese cylinder beads • 2 g size 150 Japanese seed beads • 2-strand slide clasp • conditioned nylon beading thread • beading needles, #12

reinforce the band, zigzag back through its entire length. Secure the thread with a few half-hitch knots (Basics), and trim. [3] Thread a needle on the 1-yd. (.9 m) tail, pick up one 3 mm fire-polished bead, four cylinders, and a 3 mm. Sew through the second pair of cylinders on the ladder and the next pair of cylinders in the opposite direction (figure 2, a–b). Repeat for the length of the bracelet. Exit from the last row on the ladder. [4] Pick up one 3 mm and two cylinders, and sew through the last two cylinders of the previous stitch (c–d). Sew through the two new cylinders again. To reinforce the ladder, zigzag back through the cylinders (d–e) along the entire length of the second half of the band. [5] To add the interior waves, exit between the two end cylinders at one end of a ladder, and tie a half-hitch knot. Pick up one 150 seed bead, a 3 mm, a 150, a 3 mm, and a 150, and wrap the working thread around the thread bridge between the fourth pair of cylinders (figure 3). Repeat along the length of the band, wrapping around the thread bridge between every fourth pair of cylinders. [6] Sew through to the other side of the band, exit between the two end cylinders, and repeat step 5 to add waves to the other ladder.

[7] To add the edge waves, exit an exterior corner cylinder, and anchor the thread by wrapping it around the thread bridge between the first and second cylinders. Pick up a 150, a 3 mm, a 150, a 3 mm, and a 150, and wrap around the thread bridge between the third and fourth cylinders (figure 4). Repeat along the edge, wrapping around every third thread bridge. [8] Stitch through to the other side of the band, and repeat step 7 to add waves to the other edge. Secure the tail, and trim. [9] To add the clasp, secure a comfortable length of thread near one end of the band. Sew through the beadwork to exit between a cylinder and a 3 mm at the end of the band. Sew through the first loop of one half of the clasp, and sew through the cylinder again. Retrace the thread path five or six times. Sew through the 3 mm and a cylinder. Secure the second loop the same way (figure 5). Secure the working thread in the beadwork, and trim. Repeat to add the other half of the clasp to the other end. w Contact Jan Zicarelli at [email protected].



a

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FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 5

Editor’s Note:

Using colored thread with crystal-colored beads will enhance the wave effect.

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Beautiful Bracelets



3 BEAD WEAVING

Inviting vine Drops of color blossom on this delicate vine bracelet. designed by Donna Graves



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d

stepbystep Vine [1] On a comfortable length of Fireline, attach a stop bead (Basics, p. 14), leaving an 8-in. (20 cm) tail. [2] Pick up three color A 110 seed beads and five color B 110 seed beads. [3] Sew back through the As (figure 1, a–b). Skip the last bead, and sew back through the other two As (b–c). [4] Pick up three As and five Bs. Sew back through the As, and continue through the last B from the previous leaf (c–d). [5] Pick up three As and five Bs. Sew back through the As (figure 2, a–b) and the first B from the previous leaf (b–c). [6] Continue stitching the vine by alternating steps 4 and 5 until your bracelet is the desired length. [7] Pick up four As, the split ring, and three As. Sew back through the first A and several vine beads (photo). Retrace the thread path through the loop. Secure the thread in the beadwork with a few half-hitch knots (Basics), and trim. [8] Remove the stop bead, and thread a needle on the tail. Pick up three As, the lobster claw clasp, and three As. Sew back through several vine beads. Retrace the thread path through the loop. Secure the tail, and trim.

Flowers [1] Secure 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread in the vine, and exit the last B of the first leaf (figure 3, point a). [2] Pick up a color C 110 seed bead, and sew through the B again (figure 4, a–b). [3] Pick up three Cs, and sew through the same B again (b–c).

[4] Repeat with four Cs (c–d). [5] Sew through the vine, and exit the first B of the fourth leaf (figure 3, point b). Repeat steps 2–4 to make another flower. [6] Continue stitching a flower on every third leaf at the point where the leaf meets the vine. When you have finished the flowers, secure the thread, and trim. w

b

c

ab

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a d b

c

a b a c Figure 1 b dc a d

Contact Donna Graves at Planet Bead, Inc., (503) 615-8509, e-mail her at kissmybead@planetbeadllc. com, or visit planetbead.net.

b a c d

c c

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a

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c b 2 a Figure

b b

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a a

Materials bracelet 7 in. (18 cm) • size 110 seed beads, 10 g each of 3 colors: copper-lined clear, color A silver-lined green, color B purple, color C • 10 mm lobster claw clasp • 6 mm split ring • Fireline 8 lb. test • beading needles, #12

d b

c

a



a

Figure 3

b a c d

Figure 4



d

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4

DAISY CHAIN

Daisies on the double The classic daisy chain is defined by simple seed bead circles. Doubled and dressed up with dangles, the original stitch takes on an appealing sophistication while retaining its youthful appeal. designed by Julie Walker

stepbystep

MATERIALS bracelet 61⁄2 in. (16.5 cm) • 14–16 6 mm top-drilled beads • 30–34 4 mm oval beads • 15–17 3 mm round beads • Japanese seed beads 5–7 g size 80 5–7 g size 110 • 2-strand clasp • Fireline 6 lb. test • beading needles, #11



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Daisy chain [1] On 1 yd. (.9 m) of Fireline, attach a stop bead (Basics, p. 14), leaving a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. [2] Pick up two 110 seed beads, three 80 seed beads, two 110s, and three 80s. Sew through all the beads again, exiting the first 110 (figure 1, a–b). [3] Pick up an 110, a 4 mm bead, and an 110, and sew through the upper 110 on the

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opposite side of the ring (b–c). [4] To make the connecting tab between the rings, pick up an 110, and sew through the next 110 on the ring. Pick up an 110, sew back through the 110 just added, and snug up the beads (c–d). [5] Pick up 10 110s, and sew through the next 110 (d–e). [6] Pick up a 4 mm, and sew through the upper 110 on the opposite side of the ring (e–f). [7] Repeat step 4 to make a tab. [8] Pick up three 80s, two

110s, and three 80s, and sew through the lower 110 on the tab. [9] Repeat steps 3–8 until the band is the desired length minus the length of the clasp. [10] Repeat step 4, leaving the remaining Fireline for attaching the clasp. [11] On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of Fireline, make a second daisy chain, as in steps 1–10, but start by picking up 12 110s for the first ring. Stitch the same number of rings, ending with a tab.

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f e

a figure 1

through the left half of the tab (e–f). [8] Pick up an 110, sew back through the 3 mm, pick up an 110, and sew through the corresponding 110s in the second daisy chain (f–g). [9] Pick up two 110s, an 80, an 110, a 6 mm, an 110, an 80, and two 110s (g–h). Sew through the tab beads as shown (h–i). [10] Repeat steps 2–9 for the length of the band.

e

f

c d

Clasp [1] To add the clasp, thread

Assembly [1] Lay the two daisy chains parallel to each other. [2] With the working thread from the second daisy chain, sew back through the beadwork as shown, exiting at figure 2, point a. [3] Pick up an 110, a 3 mm bead, and an 110. Sew through the corresponding 110s in the first daisy chain (a–b). [4] Sew through the two 110s on the left half of the tab. Pick up an 110, and sew back through the 3 mm (b–c). [5] Pick up an 110, and sew through the corresponding 110s in the second daisy chain. Sew through the lower half of the next ring, exiting from the upper 110 of the next tab (c–d). [6] Pick up an 110, a 3 mm, and an 110, and sew through the corresponding 110s in the first daisy chain (d–e). [7] Pick up two 110s, an 80, an 110, a 6 mm bead, an 110, an 80, and two 110s, and sew

b

a

i

a needle on the tail of the first chain, and exit the upper right corner of the tab. Pick up an 80 and an 110, and sew through a clasp loop. Sew back through the 110, pick up an 80, and sew through the two 110s on the right half of the tab (figure 3, a–b). Retrace the thread path. [2] Stitch through to the end tab on the other band (b–c). [3] Repeat step 1 to connect the other daisy chain to the clasp. Secure the working thread in the beadwork with a few half-hitch knots (Basics), and trim. [4] To add the other half of the clasp, remove the stop beads and repeat step 4 of the daisy chain to stitch a tab on the end of each chain. Repeat steps 1–3 of the clasp.

g

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figure 2

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figure 3

Editor’s Note:

Julie Walker owns The Bead Cage in Dayton, Ohio, in the U.S., where she also teaches her designs. Contact Julie at (937) 395-0590, e-mail her at beadcagequeen@aol. com, or visit her Web site, beadcage.net.

You may choose to reinforce each loop of the chain by sewing through the ring again before adding the center bead.



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5 CROSSWEAVE TECHNIQUE

Collector’s item Whether made of cut glass, metal, or Bakelite, the special qualities of vintage buttons imbue this bracelet with the glamour of a bygone era. designed by Melody MacDuffee

stepbystep Base [1] Thread a needle on each end of a 4-ft. (1.2 m) length of Fireline or Power Pro. With one needle, center three color A 110 seed beads, the large button, three A 110s, a color B 110 seed bead, a color C 4 mm fire-polished bead, and a B 110. With the other needle, cross through the last three beads (figure 1, a–b). [2] With each needle, pick up four A 110s, a B 110, and a color C 110 seed bead (b–c, l–m). Cross both needles through a small button (c–d, m–n). [3] With each needle, pick up a C 110, a B 110, two A 110s, and three 3 mm firepolished beads (d–e, n–o). Sew through the last four beads before the button, cross through the button, and continue through the next four beads (e–f, o–p). [4] With each needle, pick up an A 110, a B 110, and a C 110 (f–g, p–q). Cross both needles through a C 4 mm (g–h, q–r). [5] With each needle, pick up a C 110, a B 110, an A 110, and a color A 4 mm 10

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fire-polished bead (h–i, r–s). Sew through the last three beads before the C 4 mm again, cross through the C 4 mm, then continue through the next three beads (i–j, s–t). [6] Repeat step 2, but pick up two A 110s instead of four (j–k, t–u). [7] Repeat steps 3–6 six times. Add or omit repeats to alter the length by 1-in. (2.5 cm) increments. [8] Repeat step 3. [9] With one needle, pick up an A 110, a B 110, a C 110, a C 4 mm, a C 110, a B 110, and an A 110 (figure 2, a–b). With the other needle, cross through all seven beads (c–d). Pick up enough beads to form a loop that will fit over the end button (d–e). Sew back through the last five beads before the end button, through the button, and continue through the next four beads (e–f). Sew through the loop again to reinforce it (f–g). [10] Secure each end with a few half-hitch knots (Basics, p. 14), dot the knots with glue, and trim.

Embellishment [1] Secure 4 ft. (1.2 m) of Fireline or Power Pro at the loop end, exiting at figure 3, point a. [2] Pick up an A 110, a C 110, a color D 110 seed bead, a C 110, and an A 110 (a–b). Sew through the 3 mm below this bead group (b–c). [3] Sew through the next 3 mm. Pick up an A 110, a C 110, a D 110, and a C 110, then sew through the first A 110 from the previous step and the 3 mm (c–d). Repeat (d–e). [4] Pick up two A 110s, and sew through the next 4 mm (e–f). Pick up two more A 110s, and sew through the next 3 mm (f–g). [5] Repeat steps 2–4 along each edge of the bracelet. [6] For additional embellishment, add pairs of D 110s as shown in figure 4. Repeat along both edges, secure the thread, and trim. w

a o

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figure 3

Materials bracelet 7 in. (18 cm) • shank buttons 5⁄8 in. (1.6 cm) or 3⁄4 in. (1.9 cm) 8 3⁄8 in. (1 cm) or 1⁄2 in. (1.3 cm) • fire-polished beads 14 4 mm black, color A 9 4 mm silver, color C 48 3 mm silver, color C



b e

figure 2

f e

d

f

figure 4

• size 110 seed beads, 2 g each of 4 colors: black, color A hematite, color B silver, color C silver-lined crystal, color D • Fireline 4 lb. test or Power Pro 10 lb. test • beading needles, #12 • G-S Hypo Cement



Melody MacDuffee has been beading for 20 years and is the author of several beading books. Contact her at [email protected].

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6 CROSSWEAVE TECHNIQUE

Arabesque bracelet

Intricate layers of crystals and seed beads bring out the glamour in this crossweave technique bracelet. designed by Joanie Jenniges

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Materials bracelet 7¼ in. (18.4 cm) • bicone crystals 24 6 mm, color C 12 4 mm, color A 34 4 mm, color B 24 4 mm, color D • Japanese seed beads 3 g size 110 3 g size 150 • toggle clasp • 2 4 mm jump rings • Fireline 6 lb. test • beading needles, #12

[8] Secure a new 1-yd. (.9 m) length

Embellishment [1] Thread a needle on each end of a

stepbystep Base [1] Thread a needle on each end of a 2-yd. (1.8 m) length of Fireline, and center 10 150 seed beads. [2] With one needle, pick up an 110, a color A 4 mm bicone crystal, and an 110. Cross the other needle through all three beads (figure 1). [3] With each needle, pick up an 110, a color B 4 mm bicone crystal, and an 110. Cross the needles through an 110, a color C 6 mm bicone crystal, and an 110 (figure 2, a–b and g–h). [4] With each needle, pick up an 110, a C, and an 110. Cross the needles through an 110, a C, and an 110 (b–c and h–i). [5] With each needle, pick up an 110, a B, and an 110. Cross the needles through an 110, an A, and an 110 (c–d and i–j). [6] Repeat steps 3–5 six times or to the desired length. [7] With one needle, pick up ten 150s, and cross the other needle through all 10 beads Cross both needles through the last 110, A, and 110. [8] Secure the tails in the loop of 150s with a few half-hitch knots (Basics, p. 14), and trim.

of Fireline in the beadwork, exiting at figure 4, point a. [9] Sew through the 110, the four 150s, and the B (a–b). [10] Pick up an A, and sew through the next B (b–c). Continue to sew through the beadwork, exiting at point d. [11] Repeat steps 9 and 10 along the length of the bracelet. Secure the tails, and trim. [12] Open a jump ring (Basics), and attach it to half of the clasp and the loop of 150s on one end of the bracelet. Close the jump ring. Repeat on the other end. w

new 2-yd. (1.8 m) length of Fireline. Center it in the 110, C, and 110 at one end of the bracelet (figure 3, a–g). [2] With each needle, pick up an 110 and a color D 4 mm bicone crystal. With both needles, sew through an 110 (a–b and g–h). [3] With each needle, pick up a D and an 110. Cross the needles through the next 110, C, and 110 on the base (b–c and h–i). [4] With each needle, pick up four 150s. With both needles, sew through a B (c–d and i–j). With each needle, pick up three 150s. Cross both needles through the next 110, A, and 110 on the base (d–e and j–k). [5] With each needle, pick up three 150s. With both needles, sew through a B (e–f and k–l). With each needle, pick up four 150s, and cross both needles through the next 110, C, and 110 on the base (f–g and l–m). [6] Repeat steps 2–5 along the length of the bracelet, ending with step 3. [7] Secure the tails in the loop of 150s, and trim.

Joanie Jenniges has had several of her designs published in the past few years. Contact Joanie at [email protected], or visit her Web site, beadworkdesigns.com.

figure 1

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Beautiful Bracelets

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Basics Conditioning thread Use either beeswax (not candle wax or paraffin) or Thread Heaven to condition nylon thread. Beeswax smooths the nylon fibers and adds tackiness that will stiffen your beadwork slightly. Thread Heaven adds a static charge that causes the thread to repel itself, so don’t use it with doubled thread. Stretch the thread, then pull it through the conditioner.

Ending/adding thread To end a thread, weave back into the beadwork, following the existing thread path and tying two or three half-hitch knots around the thread between beads as you go. Change directions as you weave so the thread crosses itself. Sew through a few beads after the last knot before cutting the thread. To add a thread, enter several rows prior to the point where the last bead was added. Weave through the beadwork, tying half-hitch knots as you go, and exit where you left off.

Stop bead Use a stop bead to secure beads temporarily when you begin stitching. Choose a bead that is distinctly different from the beads in your project. String the stop bead about 6 in. (15 cm) from the end of your thread, and sew through it again in the same direction. If desired, sew through it one more time for added security.

Square knot Cross the left-hand end of the thread over the right, and bring it around and back up. Cross the end that is now on the right over the left, go through the loop, and pull both ends to tighten.

Jump rings: opening and closing

Half-hitch knot Pass the needle under the thread between two beads. A loop will form as you pull the thread through. Cross over the thread between the beads, sew through the loop, and pull gently to draw the knot into the beadwork.

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Hold a jump ring with two pair of chainnose pliers or one pair each of chainnose and bentnose pliers. To open the jump ring, bring the tips of one pair of pliers toward you and push the tips of the other pair away from you. Reverse the steps to close the open jump ring.

c a

b

Ladder stitch Pick up two beads, sew through both beads again, and snug them up so they sit side by side (a–b). Add subsequent beads by picking up one bead, sewing through the previous bead, and then sewing through the new bead (b–c). Continue for the desired length. To reinforce the ladder and even out the tension, zigzag back through the beads in the opposite direction.