Bunka Patron Cuerpo

FEMININE CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION DESIGN (Luo

Xianqun)

Unit 1. Base of General Feminine Clothing Construction Unit 2. Further Adaptations of General Feminine Clothing Construction Design Unit 3. Cutting and Wearing of National Costume

Unit 1. Base of General Feminine Clothing Construction 1.1 The Basic Bodice Blocks (2,3 kinds of Drafting ways) 1.2 Pattern of Feminine Clothing from Good Brand 1.3 Comparison Between Trousers and Jeans Cutting

1.1 The Basic Bodice Blocks (2, 3 kinds of cutting ways)

1.1.1 Bunka Prototype ⑴ Drafting of A Bodice Block a. The nape to waist and the bust girth

→Dialectic.

38.5

→Ease (feel close and easy fitting clothing against one’s body).

20.6

→Get down to the cutting ways of general blocks.

b. The S.N.P to the breast and the x- back, x-chest

24.9

？ S.N.P breast B/5.

to

？ X-chest, xback, scye, from body’ measurements.

17.8

16.6

？ Relationship between back and shoulder.

c. The front and the back and the neck and the shoulder slope, shoulder width

? Chinese houcuo is 2.4-

less than 1.5cm. ? The back opening is wider than the front opening.

6.9

7.1 18° 22° 1.8

2.6 (? 1/4+0.7)

7.4

？ Effect of dart laid in different positions. ？ Calculation of dart width. ? Relationship between the bust girth and the breast.

d. The back dart on the shoulder line and the breast dart on the armhole

1.51.8

8 10 18.3°

9

[Discussion 1]

Subject: Relationship between the bust girth and the breast.

⑴The Photographs Show the Scanning Women Bodies by SYMCAD

→ The breast is comparatively flatter when the bust girth is about 84 cm. → The breast is comparatively higher when the bust girth is about 83 cm. Bust girth 84 cm

Bust girth 83 cm

⑵ Scatter Graph and Correlation of the Difference and the Bust Girth A scatter graph shows the relationship between two quantities. If two quantities are closely related, the points of their scatter graph will lie roughly along a straight line. and changes in one are accompanied by changes in the other. The differences (Difference = Outline measurement – Linear measurement) and the bust girths of 20 persons measured by body scanner [TC]2 are recorded in the table below. 83.33

0.52

89.78

3.34

69.67

0.14

77.60

3.34

84.24

3.22

89.85

3.64

84.07

0.62

79.96

1.96

87.69

1.9

82.41

2.45

87.52

2.96

82.83

3.09

87.19

2.85

82.63

3.12

85.41

4.45

94.02

3.94

81.59

2.75

103.86

6.94

83.83

1.86

91.13

3.85

(The interviewees are chosen in an unbiased way).

(Contd)

These values can be plotted as points to make the scatter graph shown opposite.

Weak, positive correlation: The points are not very close to the line of best fit. This graph shows not that, the greater a person’ bust girth, the greater their breast high. And that span of the person’s differences are large, as graph above, the difference is 0.4, 1, 1.5, 2.5, 4 cm and more when bust girth are about 84 cm. And the majority of persons are in middle size.

e. The armhole and the darts on the waist line

→ Consult about the classic waist shaping in the forepart.

→69+6=75, 37.5. →83+12=95, 47.5. →47.5-37.5=10.

Brief Summary 6.9 2

7.1 8

2.4

1.5, 1.8

18° 12.3+1.8

→First of 10

20.5

8

22°

17.8

21.5

all learn these numerical values by heart.

11 7.4

2.9

16.6 2.6,. 5.8

2.6

20.6

12.3

18.3°

2.3 9

10.5, 17.5

38.5 1.4/2

1.8

3.5

1.1

1.5,1.5

1.4

47.5

(Contd)

→1st, center piece of upper part on front panel. →2nd, side piece of upper part on front panel. →3rd,center piece of lower part on front panel. →4th, side piece of lower part on front panel. →5th, center piece of upper part on back panel. →6th, side piece of upper Part on back panel. →7th, center piece of lower part on back panel. →8th, side piece of lower Part on back panel. →9th, underarm piece close to front part. →10th, underarm piece close to back part.

5th

6th

7th

8th

10th 9th

2nd

1st

4th

3rd

(Contd)

→Place a armhole depth line around one’s body.

A

→ Measure from C to A for the armhole depth on the front. → Measure from B to A for the armhole depth on the back. → Measure from C to E or G, H for the length of the second half on the front. → Measure from B to D or F for the length of the second half on the back.

C

B

J

D F

H

I

G

E

(Contd)

→CA minus JA is l1, which is a quasi dart on the side piece of upper part of front panel. →CE (or CG, CH ) minus JI is l2 , which is a quasi dart on the side piece of lower part of front panel.

l3

l1

→BA minus JA is l3 , which is a quasi dart on the side piece of upper part of back panel. →BD (or BF ) minus JI is l4 , which is a quasi dart on the side piece of lower part of back panel.

l2 l4

→Find out these materials about sleeve cutting: 1.

Shanghai Garment Headgear and Footwear Corporation /Garment Cutting.

2.

Winifred Aldrich/Metric Pattern Cutting.

3.

Academy of Cutting of Paris Compile “Ways of Men’s Clothing Cutting”,

4.

З.К. Амирова, О.В.Сакули на/Констру ирование Одежды”

⑵ Drafting of One-Piece Sleeve Block a. Relationship between the body and the sleeve

b. The y-cap (armhole depth on the sleeve ) Armhole Depth on Sleeve=5/6 of the average of actual armhole depth in the plane. In this example, armhole depth on sleeve is about 14.5cm.

? A sleeve must correspond with its bodice, the close sleeve from the close bodice,the easy sleeve from the easy bodice. → When the bodice are postulated, the sleeve is first considered to give a x-cap. (Cap girth = Finished bust girth / 3 ± a ).

c. The sleeve width and the straight lines to draw the cap curves

d. Marking points to draw cap curve

F.A.H /4 Point of inflection B

Point of inflection A 1

1

d. The outline of sleeve head and the balance points

Brief Summary

N o.

→First of all learn these Numerical values by heart.

01 A.H

42

02 Cap

4.5

03 A.H(F)

20.5

Section Size

Body dimension

Note

37

5cm bigger than Scye 3.5cm bigger than A.H

04 A.H(B) 21.5 05 Cap(F)

22

1.5cm bigger than A.H(F)

06 Cap(B)

23.5

2cm bigger than A.H(B)

07 Y-cap

14.5

08 X-cap

31.5

25.5

6cm bigger than Bicep

Exercise 1 (1,2,3 required)

1. Draft a basic bodice block to a scale of 1:1. (Preserve) 2. Measure the body of one’s own upper part about 30 Figures. (Preserve). 3. Try to make a sample garment. 4. Find out 3~5 materials about bodice block cutting (British, Russian , Singaporean and Chinese). 5. Go to garment factory to consult blouse cutting.

1.2 Pattern of Feminine Clothing from Good brand →As a covering, material has thickness itself. clothing should be longer than one’s part covered. →In direction of length, it needs to add ease, too. ? Relationship between the figure and the clothing length. → 38.5 it will be 39, 40, 41, even more after stretching,.

1.2.1 The Tailored Jacket Pattern from Good brand. ⑴ Bodice Block of tailored Jacket a. The clothing length and width (shoulder, bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, chest width and back width)

3 1

b. The Parts of bodice block (shoulder slope, shoulder → Shoulder breadth and form of pattern of western-style cloths.

breadth, shoulder line, panel style line, scye, neckline)

→Widen breast dart on the armhole to shape clothing more well-balance →Separate into Center piece, side piece, and underarm piece from the front part or the back part even if it was one-piece one.

8.5

→Draw the panel (A mellifluence figure loomed up through the pieces). Front: Transfer breast dart on armhole to side seam. Sketch style lines of panels. Close the dart on the side seam to open panel dart on armhole. Shape the panel lines into a mellifluence figure from figure to numerical value.

→Pucker 9cm dart on the waist line. Back part is more than 60%, about 5.5cm, and the front part is 3.5cm. →Hip girth of finished product is about 98cm or 100cm, and hip girth in one side of bodice is about 2.5cm bigger than breast girth of finished product. These are solved in the front part. →The whole armhole is a little more than 45.5cm: About 21.5cm in the front part, and the back armhole is about 24cm.

⑵ Collar of tailored Jacket ( Rever With →Before drafting a collar, mark button position, buttonholes, button stand. → 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3.

concealed stand) a. The working sketch of the collar

b. The lapel and the front part of the collar

→Rectangle l=8.5, w =8. →Trapezium b1= 8.5, b2=11, h= 8.

Roll line

Stand 2.5

3.5 4.5

11

Sewing Style line line

Fall

c. The back part of the collar

→Fall height 4.5+1 (tucked-in selvage). →Shorten 0.6cm on the side of roll line of the fall. → 9, 3 / 4, -0.2, -0.2, -0.2; +0.4, +0.4, +0.4; -0.6 (in three quarters distance half neck measurement).

(-Winifred Aldrich \Metric pattern cutting)

d. The fall of the collar (overlap, splay or make dart)

e. The stand of the collar → Mandarin collar: Draw rectangle, l=19, w =4. Divide into three sections, cut out. Then overlap 0.3, 0.3cm.

→Shorten the side of roll line by making darts.

Patch. Closed collar

⑴

and hood

(B.Z, J.P/ Basic pattern skills for fashion design.)

→The length of collar outline is shorten when shoulder points are overlapped . Then the collar will move upward along neck. →Stand height is one quarter of collar height as shoulder points are overlapped approx.5cm.

5cm

→Stand height is one third of collar height as shoulder points are overlapped approx.10cm.

⑵

10CM

→Many collar styles can be based on the method. → Shaping at collar as shown below.

? fit ? figure

⑶

(A.J/ Modern pattern design)

→ Head dimension: Head breadth approx. 15cm. Head length approx. 18cm. Nape to top approx. 24cm. Head girth approx. 56cm.

⑷

→Winifred Aldrich/ Metric pattern cutting.

⑶ Tow-piece Sleeve block a. x-cap, y-cap, sleeve length, cuff size, elbow line

→X-capgirth =B’/ 3+1.5cm 95+2.4-1.4=96 96/3+1.5=33.5 15.5-

B 8.7

16.8

→Draw Y-cap by a half AH as shown in diagram.

4

22

22.75+()=22.75 →F, 1/4. B, 2/3 1.5 → Sleeve length will be longer or shorter than one’s subject.

56

30 F 3.8

.75

b. Sleeve head (A-F, F-C, C-B, B-A) → Armhole length 45.5cm (21.5, 24): A-F 7.3, F-C 14.3, C-B 11.5, B-A 12.6. → Cap 48A-F (), F-C 14.3, (0), 15.2. C-B 11.8 (+0.3), 12.3. B-A 12.3, (-0.3), 13.

Brief Summary

→First of all learn these Numerical values by heart.

No.

Section

Size

01

Length

-

02

Shoulder width

38 +(1)

38

5cm wider than back width. Bust girth/4 + 17.25.

03

Bust girth

83+12+2.4-1.4

83

Style line of panel will cut down bust girth.

04

Waist girth

76

68

18cm smaller than bust girth of finished product. They are used to shape the waist, Front 40%, Back 60%.

05

Hips girth

100

90

4 cm bigger than bust girth of finished product.

06

X-back

17.8+0.5

17

07

X-front

16.6+0.7

16.5

08

A.H

44.5 (21.5,24 )

37

09

X-Cap

33.5 (16.8)

10

Cap

48-

Body dimension

Note Under hip

Bust 46%. A-F F-C C-B B-A

girth of finished product 7.3 14.3 11.5 12.6

26

A-F F-C C-B B-A

Straight 14.3, 11.8, 12.3,

Curve 7.3 15.2 12.3 13

Exercise 2 (1,3 required)

1. Measure detailed dimensions of each part of feminine clothing in more than 3 pieces whose respective sizes are easy, close, and in-between. 2. Measure detailed dimensions of each part of feminine clothing from good brand. 3. Make the datasheet of dimensions from measuring clothing (Preserve). 4. Make 2~3 types of collar, and give an experiment report. 5. Go to garment factory to consult a tailored jacket cutting.

1.3 Pattern Feminine Trousers

of

1.3.1 The Basic Trouser Block ⑴ Figure which links terms and locations ？Crotch extension ？Crease line → Crotch depth, waist girth.

1.5

⑵ To complete the front sections and the back sections ？ The line about pleat is deflective ？ Length of arc (l－r) 2π, h= (l2-r2)1/2, θ =( 2 π l – 2 π r) * 360° /2π l. ？Back crotch line is lower. → Figure, smoothly.

balance,

1.3.2 The Jeans block (Close Fitting Trousers) →Winifred Aldrich/ Metric Pattern cutting. →Helen Joseph Armstrong/ Pattern making for fashion design.

→For a personal fit, the front and back crotch level should measure from 2.5 to 4cm more than the upper thigh measurement. → Measure front and back crotch length, spread centre back to increase the measurement to amount needed.

Brief Summary

→First of all learn these Numerical values by heart.

No. Section

Note

01

Crotch extension

0.13, 0.14, 0.15, 0.16, 0.17, 0.18 Hip

02

Crease line

1/8 – 2.5 Hip girth of finished product

03

Slant of back centre line

θ =( 2 π l – 2 π r) * 360° /2π l

Exercise 3 (2,3 required)

1. Study 3～5 methods of trousers pattern (including Chinese style pants (slacks) etc); 2. Draft pattern of feminine trouser (1:1). 3. Compare, and make a jeans (3-5 popular brands of jeans). 4. Draft pattern about culotte, baggy pant, high-waist pant, hip-hugger pant, jumpsuit, leotard (1:1).

Unit 2. Further Adaptations of General Feminine Clothing Construction Design 2.1. A Way of Raglan Sleeve Cutting. 2.2 A Way of Gusset Cutting. 2.3 Changes of Dart and Drape. n n n

Change of Dart British Practice to the Drape American Practice to the Drape

2.1 A Way of Raglan Sleeve Cutting

→B’/4 ±0.5 →Shape, first of all is beautiful

2.1.1 The Back of The Raglan Sleeve a.

b.

→(B’/3+2.5) /2±1 →Curve of armpit →Curve of cap →Consider to move center line of sleeve cap 2cm forward in the position of sleeve opening

2.1.2 The Front of The Raglan Sleeve

？Stretching out ？An angle of Forty five degrees

→Length →Smooth →Beautiful shape

Exercise 4 (1,2required)

1.Make and analyze the sample of raglan sleeve (1:1); and try to cut a raglan sleeve like the form of sleeve of westernstyle clothes. 2. Collect and summarize the good examples of raglan sleeve designs ( Pay attention to aspect of dimension). (Preserve). 3. Make 1, 2 kinds of designs (1:1), considering raglan sleeve cutting.

2.2 A Way of Gusset Cutting

→To enlarge the bust and the depth of the scye. →X-cap (B’/3+4cm) →Line 2, draw an arc of radius AH line →Cut the red line of the gusset from the point of Intersection

2.2.1 The Back of The Gusset a.

b.

→ Shaping

the

underarm seam and the side Seam after tacking the gusset. →The fork Point is about Armpit when Raising arm.

2.2.2 The Front of The Gusset: ？The width of gusset can be narrowed down, but the gussets in the front and in the back, wide or narrow, all should be equal.

a.

Exercise 5 (1,2 required)

1. Collect and summarize the good examples of gusset designs (Pay attention to aspect of dimension). (Preserve) 2. Make 1 ， 2 kinds of designs (1:1), considering gusset cutting. (Preserve)

2.3 Change of Dart and Drape

→Self-study “Helen Joseph Armstrong: Pattern Making for Fashion Design”

2.3.1 Change of Dart :

→Find out Bernard/ Basic pattern skills for fashion design” and Martin Shoben and Janet Ward/Pattern Cutting and Making up”

2.3.2 Draped Collar (1) British practice to the draped collar

(2) American Practice to the Drape

→Collar width exceeds 16cm*2 →Collar width exceeds 12cm*2

Exercise 6 (1,2 required)

1. Collect and summarize the good examples of designs of drape and change of dart (Pay attention to aspect of dimension). ( Preserve) 2. Design and make 1~2 bodices with draped collar. (Preserve)

Unit 3. National costume 3.1. Chinese-style Clothing Construction Design. n

Duijin Blouse

n

Dajin Qipao

n

Pants

3.2. Foreign Costume (Discussion). n

Wrapped Clothing (Sari, Assam ,Quechquemitl. )

n

Cylinder Form ( Basic Block of Kimono)

n

Pant Garment (Turkish Slacks)

3.1. Chinesestyle Clothing Construction Design

→Find out Shanghai Garment Headgear & Footwear Corporation/ Collection of Garment Cutting of Shanghai.

3.1.1 Chinese Blouse of Duijin ⑴ Cut button stand for buttonhole a.

b.

→Find out Liu Ruizhen/How toTailor Chinese’ Qipao. →Find out Yang Mingshan:/ Chinese Clothing.

( Duijin, Dajin, Wajin, Xiaojin,, Shangyao, Zhongyao, Taijianwan, Chushou, Guajian Taijian, Xiabai, Kailing, Dajinzui, Houcuo, Yakou, Lingkoukou, Yexiakou, Yaokou, Chakou, Zoushuixian, Pingxiu,Erkou )

c.

d. →Draw out the bottom until it measured more than 1 cm for Remedying the centre parts of the front.

⑵ Draft and Cut the Slopers

→The allowance is about 0.7 in the neck loop. →The allowance is about 0.33 + 0.17Yakaou (≈0.5) in the open front →Neck depth: 36.5 /5+17=9 (including Houcuo 0.7cm.) →Neck width=Depth - 3.

⑵ Menjin and Lijin, Armhole depth →23.5, it will be bigger, after the armpit of the Chinese blouse is shaped. →Patch a facing to the open front on the side of Buttonhole (Menjin). →Patch a button stand and a facing (all in one piece material) to the open front on the side of Button (Lijin).

6

9 7 8

3.1.2 Qipao of Chinese Opening (Wajin) ⑴ Making a Chinese opening (Wajin): a.

Length + Hem depth 112 + 2.7 2.7

9 6 0.7

→Zhikai ling 36.5/5 + 1.7. →Hengkailing 3cm smaller than Zhikailing.

93/4

23.5

b. →Then the back Also is laid to Overlap about 1cm like the front

Overlap 1cm or more

→Cut along red line. →Pucker a dart about 1cm to draw up Dajin on the front neck. →

Outspread about 0.7cm to extend Xiaojin on the front neck.

c.

⑵ Draft and Cut the Slopers: a.

Square out and down from the new center line (A converse herringbone).

Trend line of on The Front

Broadwise

3.1.3 Chinese Style Pants ？Additional ease: about 35cm in waist or about 15cm in hip. →(26+26+15+4)-4=67cm

Exercise 7 (1,3 required)

1. Try to make a Chinese blouse and pants with hand stitching. 2. Write a record of Chineseclothing (Emphasize particularly on problem of dimension). (Preserve) 3. Go to factory to consult cutting and making of the Chinesestyle clothing. (Preserve)

3.2. Foreign

3.2.1 Wrapped Clothing

Costume

3.2.1.1 Sari (No-seam clothing) 3.2.1.1.1 Under-wear (First put on a fitting choli and a underskirt)

→ Tianzhong Qiandai/ National Costumes in The World.

⑴ Choli

3.2.1.1.2 Cutting and Wearing of Sari a.

→Round from right to right and tuck the waist of sari into the under skirt.

b. →Round again

c.

→ Left: draw apart the cloth to make pleats. →Right: Gather the end of the cloth with accordion pleats or other one.

→Put the puckered end of the cloth up the left shoulder from right underarm. →Make vertical pleats (a pleat is about 10cm) on the part of the cloth left out, and tuck them into the front of the waist beautifully. →Down to the knee. → One ,round. → Two, stretch. → Three, gather and put up on shoulder. → Four, withdraw to abdomen. →As a headdress, as a scarf, and could be worn in different ways following one’s inclinations and demands.

d.

3.2.1.2 Assam a.

→ Two pieces of materials (Sewing) →Barefoot. generally

→Seize A and B then tie them on left side of front

b.

A

B

3.2.2 Opening Hole 3.2.2.1 Quechquemitl (Roundel shoulder) a.

→Neck opening, (horizontal neckline) 28+28. →Clothing Length, 45 (around the waist). → Hem, about 180.

b.

3.2.3 Cylinder Form 3.2.3.1 Kimono (Sketch pattern) a.

→ Widesleeve Japanese robe is fastened at waist with a wide sash.

3.2.4 Pant Garment 3.2.4.1 A Turkish Slacks

→ A fabric consumption, 100×4 when width is 2 chi and 1cun..

Exercise 8 (1,3 required)

1. Imitate and make 3~5 kinds of national costumes (made of cloth or paper; pay attention to the way of dressing). 2. Collect 1~2 sets of national costumes. (Preserve) 3. Find out historical materials about cutting and making of the classical national costumes. (Preserve).