Delicious 201402

FEBRUARY 2014 | VOTED AUSTRALIA‘S BEST FOOD MAGAZINE

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SIDE WITH T U O IT E K A T INNERS FUSS FREE D ESSERTS AND COOL D

Barbecued pizzas: prosciutto with tomato and mozzarella; chilli prawn with zucchini and pesto.

VALLI LITTLE Beach holiday menu KATIE QUINN DAVIES Valentine‘s Day JILL DUPLEIX Luscious frozen yoghurt

editor’s letter.

This issue…

Whether you’re still enjoying a break or are back at work, this issue is all about ways to keep that holiday feeling going right through summer. Barbecues and picnics are high on the agenda, of course – try Valli’s beach-inspired seafood menu (p 48) or chef-turnedbutcher Colin Holt’s grill favourites (p 90). You could also opt for our clever cover idea – chargrilled pizza bases on the barbecue, then have everyone load them up with their favourite toppings. Add some cool, fruity desserts, such as ice cream sandwiches or tropical popsicles (Wicked, p 74), and you’re all set. You don’t have to wait for a weekend event, though. Take even a simple Daily Special (p 58) pasta or salad outdoors on a Tuesday night and feel the workday stress melt away, as you keep that holiday mood going. Also this month, we take a cook’s tour of Lake Como, Italy, and celebrate Lunar New Year with some of Sydney and Melbourne’s top Asian chefs, who share their favourite dining spots. Plus, you’re invited to join us in Perth and Noosa as we showcase each state’s best at special delicious. Produce Awards dinners. Hope to see you there.

photography jeremy simons

Danielle Oppermann, Editor

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Luigi Bormioli’s Canaletto, the dazzling glass.

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Our COver barbecued pizzas Serves 4 If you’re entertaining, make these pizza bases and let guests assemble their own toppings. 21/4 cups (360g) bread & pizza flour or 21/2 cups (375g) plain flour 1/4 cup (50g) fine semolina 1 tbs dried instant yeast 1/2 tsp caster sugar 2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush Prosciutto with tomato and mozzarella Good-quality tomato pasta sauce, torn buffalo mozzarella, vine-ripened cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced prosciutto, black olives and rocket leaves Chilli prawn with zucchini and pesto Chargrilled zucchini slices, chilli-marinated prawns, basil pesto and basil leaves Combine flour, semolina, yeast, sugar, oil and 1 tsp salt in an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add 1 cup (250ml) warm water, then knead for 8-9 minutes until smooth. (Alternatively knead on a floured surface for 10 minutes or until smooth.) Place in an oiled bowl, cover and set aside in a warm place for 3 hours or until doubled in size. Knock back dough, then separate into four rounds. Place on an oiled baking tray, cover with a tea towel and rest for 30 minutes. Preheat barbecue or chargrill pan to high. Roll out dough on a floured surface to a 5mm-thick oval. Brush both sides generously with oil (to prevent it from sticking to the grill). Chargrill for 2-3 minutes each side until charred. Add toppings, then serve.

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Cover stories 48

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66 Recipe Valli Little Styling Vivien Walsh Photography Alan Benson

Valli Little’s beach holiday menu Sunset on the beach is complete with a fresh catch of seafood and Valli’s simple barbecue menu. Fuss-free dinners Our daily specials have every night of the week covered, from chicken salad to pork tacos. Katie Quinn Davies’ Valentine’s Day menu Set the scene with Katie’s elegant 3-course menu.

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Cool desserts Gorgeous Sydney blog The Food Dept. create wicked tropical desserts, including macadamia biscuit ice cream sandwiches and homemade ice pops, so you can keep your cool. 116 Jill Dupleix’s luscious frozen yoghurt Jill’s shares four light and easy gluten-free desserts for warm weather, including a yoghurt and berry gelato terrine.

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Hotspots Dishes from Wood Fire Grill in Noosa, Rushcutters in Sydney and Melbourne’s Fatto Bar & Cantina. Easy does it Easy summer tarts make the ideal picnic food. Hot blogs Lighten up your cooking with our round-up of the best vegetarian and wholefood blogs. Guest chef Colin Holt of Hudson Meats shares his tips and recipes for the ultimate barbecue.

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58 124 82

Escape 124 Global flavours Valli travels to Lake Como for an Italian cooking class with Sydney-based chefs Alessandro Pavoni and Giovanni Pilu. 136 Postcard Peter Gilmore escapes to Fiji’s luxe Laucala Island. 138 24 hours in Lyon Take a tour of France’s gastronomic capital, Lyon. 142 Locavore: Lunar New Year Top Aussie-Asian chefs share their must-eat spots in Sydney and Melbourne.

Regulars 5 10 13 15

Editor’s letter Menus Inbox Out & about Join us for a special dinner at Sydney’s Ormeggio at The Spit, plus photos from our reader dinner at Rushcutters.

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Produce Awards 2014 Join us for two special dinners in Queensland and Western Australia. 23 Insider The latest food trends, products, books and restaurant news. 28 What to drink when. Andrea Frost embraces the outdoors with summer wines. 42 S reasons to… Matt Preston has so many reasons to get grilling. 44 Subscribe to delicious. Receive a Pyrex gift set. 152 Recipe index 154 Secret address book Chef Rene Redzepi from Denmark’s Noma shares his favourite food spots.

99 Jamie Oliver exclusive section 100 Fun in the oven Jamie shows woodfired ovens can turn out more than just pizza with his alfresco cooking ideas, including a summer fruit crumble. 108 In the mix Jamie’s light, fresh Asian-inspired salads are just the thing for warm evenings at home.

The Test Kitchen uses meat supplied by Hudson Meats; hudsonmeats.com.au.

THE PUREST EXPRESSION of AUSTRALIAN SAUVIGNON BLANC “Every wine should tell a story, and this Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc is no exception. Its tale is one of perfect unity between region and variety, enriched by the distinctive elements of the vintage. Using gentle winemaking techniques, the story that’s told is honest a pure expression of Australian Sauvignon Blanc.” WILLIAM HARDY {5th Generation}

www.hardyswines.com

Enjoy Hardys responsibly.

Mix and match recipes from this issue to create three fresh summer feasts, from a bright and healthy dinner, to a smoky barbecue lunch and an Asian spread heady with herbs and spice.

hot summer nights Asparagus, grape & haloumi salad with vinaigrette

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Peach & pork tacos

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Yoghurt & berry gelato terrine

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barbecue lunch King prawns with chimichurri

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Barbecued lamb racks

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Chocolate s’mores

asian feast Vietnamese chicken salad (goi ga)

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Barramundi in banana leaf with coconut rice

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Fruit skewers with gingersnap crumbs and coconut cream

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2014 The World of Shakespeare 8 nights in the UK Celebrate this incredible milestone of literary popularity with 3 special anniversary performances by the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford-upon-Avon. Uncover Shakespeare’s hidden secrets in exclusive Odyssey lectures from renowned academic, Professor Stanley Wells, in London and enjoy 3 more performances. Extend your tour with the option of the world famous Chelsea Flower Show. 28 May ‘14

5 June ‘14

Reserve your seat by calling 1300 888 225 or visit odysseytraveller.com

SAVE $250 FOR EARLYBIRD BOOKINGS Book your 2014 The World of Shakespeare tour before 31st March 2014 and pay only $4,700 per person, twin share*. *Single supplement applies. Terms and conditions at odysseytraveller.com

PROUDLY NOT FOR

PROFIT

Educational Travel Specialists for over 50s since 1983

EDITOR Danielle Oppermann [email protected] FOOD DIRECTOR Valli Little [email protected]

EDITORIAL Deputy Editor Shannon Harley [email protected] Senior Subeditor/Online Editor Lara Zilibowitz [email protected] Junior Subeditor Heidi Finnane heidi.fi[email protected] Editorial Coordinator Amy Pagett [email protected] Editorial Enquiries (02) 8062 2791, [email protected] ART Art Director Shannon Keogh [email protected] Senior Designer Kate Skinner [email protected] FOOD Assistant Food Editor Warren Mendes [email protected] Food Assistant Sarah Murphy [email protected] Food Enquiries [email protected] Senior Editor Matt Preston Contributors Jill Dupleix, Andrea Frost, Bill Granger, Jamie Oliver, David Prior, Katie Quinn Davies, Stephanie Westcott National Advertising Director Prue Cox NSW Sales Director Paul Blackburn (02) 8062 2563 NSW Group Sales Directors Nicole Bence (02) 8062 2670, Sam Tomlinson (02) 8062 2314, Belinda Miller (02) 8062 2663 Group Sales Partnerships David Rogers (02) 8062 2066 VIC Sales Director Kim Carollo (03) 9292 3204 VIC Group Sales Directors Sally Paterson (03) 9292 3217, Lisa Mikkelsen (03) 9292 3206, Astrid White (03) 9292 3222 QLD Sales Director Rose Wegner (07) 3666 6903 SA Advertising Representative Maree Marasco (03) 9292 2749 WA Advertising Representative Bronwyn Robinson (08) 9326 9806 Classifieds Advertising Rebecca White 1300 139 305 Brand Solutions Director Sam Smith Group Brand Solutions Manager Jane Purves (02) 8062 2946 Brand Solutions Manager Kate Corbett (02) 8062 2012 Brand Solutions Coordinator Caitlin Griffith-Pecset (02) 8062 2917 Advertising Creative Director Richard McAuliffe Advertising Creative Manager Zoe Tack Senior Art Director, Creative Services Lisa Klaus Production Director Mark Moes [email protected] Production Manager Neridah Burke [email protected] Ad Production Manager Katie Nagy (02) 8062 2170; [email protected]

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Publisher ABC Magazines Liz White [email protected] Publishing Editor ABC Magazines Marija Beram [email protected] Commercial Manager, Food Laura Lane [email protected] Marketing Manager Anthony Whittle [email protected] Brand Manager Renee Gangemi [email protected] Marketing Assistant Lucy Johnston [email protected] Group Circulation Manager, Food Sheri Mohamed [email protected] Chief Executive Officer Nicole Sheffield Group Publisher, Food Fiona Nilsson General Manager, Commercial Development Marcus Williams Commercial Director Miffy Coady Director of Communications Sharyn Whitten Marketing Director Diana Kay General Manager, Retail and Circulation Brett Willis Subscription Enquiries 1300 656 933; [email protected] Enquiries: Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015, tel: (02) 8062 2791, email: [email protected]. Melbourne Office, HWT Tower, Level 5, 40 City Rd, Southbank, Vic 3006, tel: (03) 9292 2000. delicious. is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906), 2 Holt St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010, tel: (02) 9288 3000. NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178). Copyright 2013 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. “ABC” and the “Wave” device trademark are used under licence from the Australian Broadcasting Corporation. Colour separations News PreMedia. Distributed by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd, tel: 1300 650 666. No material may be reproduced without prior written permission of the publisher.

issn 1448-4455

Comedies, histories, tragedies and romances.

Send your emails to [email protected] or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.

Letter of the month Charged with making my wife Kate’s birthday cake, our sons Charlie, 2, Alex, 4, and I proceeded with an enormous amount of trepidation to her collection of delicious. magazines to seek out the culinary master that would walk us through the process. The winner was Katie Quinn Davies and her gorgeous basil and lemon olive oil cake with strawberries in syrup (November 2013, p 116). The cake turned out perfectly. Thank you Katie and delicious. for producing amazing recipes. Justin Fay, Lake Wendouree, Vic ed’s note: Congratulations, Justin! You’ve won a Zyliss Knife Block Set, Carving Set and Smart Touch Salad Spinner, valued at $300. Visit: zyliss.com.

memory Lane back many wonderful memories of my time there studying Italian. I couldn’t believe that Gelateria Pomposa was featured – the description of mascarpone gelato topped with warm caramelised figs transported me straight back to the cobblestone streets. Millicent Golding, Biggera Waters, Qld fired up I am the first to admit that while cooking is not my thing, I like to think of myself as a bit of a barbecue king. After reading Jamie Oliver’s Griller Tactics (November 13, p 84), I realised that the time had come to change up my usual sausage, onion and tomato sauce repertoire and challenge my tastes with new sensations – time to fire up the barbie. Kevin Nathaniel, Riverview, NSW

delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters.

hidden gems Thank you so much for showcasing Perth in November’s Locavore (p 143). All too often I think there isn’t anything exciting happening in the food scene in Perth, but it seems I need to get out more and explore the uncovered treasures! Leesa Plester, Melville, WA confident cook My first reaction upon receiving an annual subscription to delicious. magazine for my birthday was one of nervousness, as I believed it would be too sophisticated for my cooking skills. What a revelation! I have gained more confidence and am now willing to cook more of the recipes featured, it’s been a great success, thank you delicious. Shirley-Anne Lukeman, Bonnet Bay, NSW Follow us: @deliciousAU

facebook.com/deliciousmagazine @deliciousmagazine

HOW DO YOU SPOT AUTHENTIC ITALIAN PASTA?

FROM ITALY TO YOUR TABLE WITH NOTHING LOST IN TRANSLATION

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NUMBER 1 IN ITALY

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Events • Photo galleries

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with Giovanni & Alessandro at Ormeggio This month, we followed two of our favourite Australian-Italian chefs, Giovanni Pilu of Pilu at Freshwater and Alessandro Pavoni from Ormeggio at The Spit, on their adventure in Lake Como, Italy as they cooked up regional specialities (see our story, p 124). Join us as we celebrate the chefs’ return home with an exclusive delicious. reader dinner at the recently revamped two-hatted Ormeggio at The Spit. Giovanni and Alessandro will create a five-course feast that spans Italian cuisine from north to south, including canapes on arrival, and each course will be matched with fine Italian wines.

Where:

Ormeggio at The Spit, d’Albora Marinas The Spit, Mosman, NSW When: 7pm, Wed, February 19 Price: $120 for 5 courses matched with fine Italian wines Bookings: Taken from 10am, Monday, January 20, tel: (02) 9969 4088

In association with

Canapes on arrival

* Biodynamic veal vitello tonnato with toasted pine nuts and capers

* Agnolotti pasta with asparagus, aged sheep’s milk ricotta, black olives, nduja and watercress

* Sa cassola (Sardinian seafood and tomato soup) with fregola

* Carrot, fennel seed and farro with vinegar caramel

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event.

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does dinner

to launch Love to Cook at Rushcutters, Sydney

In association with

PhotograPhy ANDY LEWIS

Readers gathered with Lallier Grand Cru Champagne in hand to launch our latest book, Love to Cook, at Rushcutters in Sydney. Food director Valli Little teamed up with executive chef Martin Boetz and head chef Kasper Christensen (above left) to showcase dishes from the book and the restaurant. The shared feast included baby beetroot and goat’s curd salad, and slow-cooked lamb shoulder with chilli mint sauce, all matched with South Australian wines from Grant Burge. For more photos, visit: delicious.com.au.

Coast to coast This month, join us for two special reader dinners in Queensland and Western Australia as our state judges showcase the very best produce from their state.

Where:

Thomas Corner Eatery, 1/201 Gympie Tce, Noosaville, Qld When: 7pm, Thursday, February 27 PrICe: $100 for 4 courses with Catalina Sounds wines BookIngs: (07) 5470 2224

asparagus, grape & haloumi salad with vinaigrette serves 4 as a starter Last year’s From the Dairy finalist Cedar Street Cheeserie’s haloumi is beautiful when pared with 2013 From the Earth finalist LiraH sweet apple vinegar.

To make vinaigrette, whisk vinegar, oil and mustard in a small bowl. Set aside. Heat half the butter and oil in a frypan over medium-high heat. Add breadcrumbs and cook for 2-3 minutes until golden and crispy. Remove from heat and set aside. Drain currants, then combine with asparagus, grapes and vinaigrette. Heat remaining butter and oil in a frypan over medium-high heat. Add haloumi and cook for 1 minute each side or until golden. Top salad with breadcrumbs, haloumi, vino cotto and parsley, then serve.

* Panko are coarse Japanese crumbs from supermarkets. Vino cotto is a condiment made from cooked grape must and is from gourmet food shops.

Taste the best of WA’s Produce Awards winners and finalists with state judge Hadleigh Troy of Restaurant Amusé as he joins Kiren Mainwaring at acclaimed East Perth restaurant Co-op Dining. This four-course lunch will be matched with local wines from Myattsfield Vineyards. Where:

Co-op Dining, 2/11 Regal Pl, East Perth, WA When: 7pm, Wednesday, February 5 PrICe: $100 for 4 courses with matching Myattsfield Vineyards wines BookIngs: (08) 9221 0404

NOMINATE AND WIN! 18 delicious.

styling ViViAn WAlsh

Taste the best of Queensland’s past Produce Awards winners and finalists, including the salad featured here, from state judge David Rayner of Thomas Corner Eatery.

ShowcaSe dinner: weSTern aUSTraLia

food photography AlAn Benson

ShowcaSe dinner: QUeenSLand

1 tbs apple cider vinegar (we used LiraH sweet apple vinegar) 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp Dijon mustard 40g unsalted butter 2 tbs olive oil 1/2 cup (25g) panko* or dried breadcrumbs 1/4 cup (35g) currants, soaked in 2 tbs port 20 asparagus spears, trimmed, blanched 160g (about 36) red grapes, halved 350g haloumi (we used Cedar Street Cheeserie haloumi), cut into strips 11/2 tbs vino cotto* or balsamic vinegar Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve

produce awards.

Asparagus, grape & haloumi salad with vinaigrette

for blending, chopping or whipping – it makes light work of all recipes. Visit: kitchenaid.com.au. To nominate a producer and for terms and conditions, visit: deliciousproduceawards.com.au.

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KiTcHenAiD® ADverTising feATure

Easy breezy

The versatile, simple-to-use KitchenAid® Deluxe Hand Blender helps you make the most of top seafood from the delicious. Produce Awards right through summer.

Help is at Hand Great for small, daily jobs that require a quick, smooth and uniform result, the KitchenAid® Deluxe Hand Blender ($249) is a joy to use. Perfectly weighted with a rubber grip, its powerful 180-watt motor quietly blitzes through any culinary task, whether it’s blending, mincing, chopping, whipping, puréeing or frothing. The 1L, BPA-free jug allows you to blend, serve and store in one container, while the 0.6L chopper makes light work of small jobs. Switching between attachments, from chopping blades to whisk, is easy, and the patented removable pan guards protect your cookware when mixing directly in the pan.

FRom tHe sea Try these simple ideas for making the most of delicious. Produce Awards ‘From the Sea’ finalists using your KitchenAid ® Deluxe Hand Blender:

* Using the chopper, make a fragrant Thai curry paste to cook with Kinkawooka Petit Bouchot Mussels. * Use the S-Blade attachment to purée potato and leek soup until velvety smooth. Chill and serve as a canapé in small glasses topped with Yarra Valley Caviar salmon roe. * Use the whisk attachment to whip up a batch of creamy herb mayonnaise, then serve with fresh seafood or grilled fish such as Cone Bay Barramundi. * Using the chopper, make a fresh herb salsa or chunky guacamole to serve with Mexican style fish tacos made with Palmers Island Mulloway. * Serve One Sea Rottnest Island Scallops on a bed of cauliflower purée blended with the S-Blade attachment. For more recipe inspiration, visit: kitchenaid.com.au.

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The Beach Club bar at Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel has a beach-shack vibe. Left: Sydney’s new Clubhouse.

Words Lara ZiLibowitZ, shannon harLey, heidi Finnane, LiZZie LoeL & hiLary mcnevin

TABLE TALK • Surf Life Saving Australia’s national headquarters in Rosebery, Sydney, has been given a lift with the newly opened bar and restaurant Clubhouse. The laid-back beach vibe of this all-day venue works well with a share menu from Rafael Tonon (ex-Barrio Chino). Visit: clubhouseaustralia.com. • Perched on a harbourside peninsula in Sydney, the Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel has relaunched with a stylish new Vt-out complete with large open kitchen, timber sundeck and cruisy Beach Club cocktail bar. Plus, there’s a seafood-dominated summer menu by executive chef John Pye (ex-Doltone House). Visit: watsonsbayhotel.com.au. • Set on the edge of St Kilda beach and with stunning views of Port Phillip Bay, Captain Baxter has become a favourite outdoor spot in Melbourne. Chef and co-owner Matt Dawson has created a Texible menu with drink-friendly snacks for lazy afternoons, think salt and pink-pepper squid with Korean hot sauce. Visit: captainbaxter.com.au. • With windows overlooking the surf at Burleigh Heads in Queensland, The Fish House, owned by restaurateur Simon Gloftis, is a celebration of all things from the sea. According to seafood expert John Susman of Sydney-based Fishtales: “The Fish House is what eating seafood in Australia is all about – unpretentious, professional and seriously delicious food based on the very best from the ocean.” Visit: theVshhouse.com.au.

Trends • News • Travel • Products • Books Femme FataLe Meet Gingerella, a sultry concoction of ginger, lemon and spice from Fairtrade co-ops around the world. $4.50/330ml; visit: karmacola.com.au.

sugar and spice The Yarra Valley Chocolaterie & Ice Creamery has looked to the garden for inspiration for their new range, including toasted coconut and curry leaf, and fig and fennel seed. $7.50/bar; visit: yvci.com.au. delicious. 23

insider.

trending now The trend for boutique infused gin has arrived Down Under with Four Pillars Gin. Made in the Yarra Valley, each bottle is infused with Australian natives such as Tasmanian pepper berry leaf and lemon

nut cracker

a MOVeaBLe FeaST

Prefer your on-trend coconut water straight from the shell? Make it easy with the CocoCut – no machete required. $29 each; visit: cococut.com.

is a handy new tool from taste.com.au,

ingredients, cooking times and even allergies. Sign up now for a free 28-day trial at tasteplanner.com.au.

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Sean Brock, Husk Restaurant, Charleston & Nashville, US

Don’t miss...

• Daylesford in Victoria plays host to the annual Regional Producers Day, which is now in its 11th year in the grounds of Lake House (pictured). This market-style celebration features over 50 stallholders, including the best farmers, producers, bakers, winemakers and brewers from the region. There are also tastings, cooking demonstrations and tutorials with a $5 entry fee. Visit: lakehouse.com.au/whats-on. • Head to North East Victoria for the Tastes of Rutherglen Festival 2014 (March 8-9 and March 15-16) for two weekends flled with fabulous food and wine as leading regional chefs and local winemakers play host to tastings, markets, music and more. Visit: winemakers.com.au. • Join Martin Teplitzky at his Take 2 Eggs Cooking Academy in Sydney as he recreates some of the recipes from his mother’s legendary cooking school in ‘Gretta Anna Revisited’ (February 1 & April 5). Visit: take2eggs.net. • The next time you fy Singapore Airlines, be sure to check out their newly designed SilverKris Lounge at Sydney airport. Renowned architectural and interior-design frm ONG&ONG are behind the sleek new lounges worldwide, which have a ‘home away from home’ ambience.

What is Husk known for? We first opened Husk in Charleston (pictured) to give a fresh outlook on Southern cuisine. What makes the restaurants unique? The dishes and ingredients tell a story of a particular place, a family, or time period. We want people to eat delicious food, but also to think about where they are and how special the US South is. What is your favourite ingredient to cook with? If I had to choose, I would have to say heirloom corn. It’s responsible for a lot of my favourite things such as cornbread, grits, hominy and of course, bourbon. Do you have a signature dish? I choose not to. Cooking is about discovery – I like the freedom of constant evolution. Visit: husknashville.com.

Take a look at the magical country of Morocco through the lens of Aussie photographer Rob Palmer and his French/Moroccan wife Sophia, in their new book Colour of Maroc (Murdoch Books, $59.99) – a collection of traditional and contemporary recipes interwoven with personal stories inspired by their travels. Head to the NSW Northern Rivers with Byron Bay – a Food Journey Through the Region (Tancred Holdings, $34.95). This collection of recipes, compiled by Remy Tancred and Nelly le Comte, highlights the finest producers and restaurants of one of our most popular travel destinations. Join Paris-based foodie Rachel Khoo on her tour de France in her second book My Little French Kitchen (Penguin, $39.95) as she seeks inspiration from famous hotpots and hidden gems around the country. Can’t get enough of French flavours? Irish-born Trish Deseine’s new book, The Paris Gourmet (Thames & Hudson, $45), is a definitive guide to Paris with must-visit addresses and insider tips. 26 delicious.

JUST ONE TASTE AND YOU’LL CHANGE YOUR TUNA Succulent chunk-style tuna fillets All natural ingredients In an Italian extra virgin olive oil blend Try it and you’ll understand why Australians have loved their Sirena since 1956

For tasty tuna recipes and more, go to www.sirena.com.au

what to drink when. by andrea frost

$

Jacob’s Creek Riesling 2012, $12

I’ve often thought that what makes anything suitable to the great outdoors is really just a matter of attitude. Well, that and the weather. Well, your attitude, the weather, food and the view. So, alfresco dining is a warm-weather activity and as such usually calls for certain styles of cooking; picnics, barbecues and casual platters. Wine-wise I’d tend toward food-friendly whites as well as lighter reds. First, be sure to pack some riesling. It’s an exquisite wine with a willingness to match to many different types of foods. Try Henschke Peggy’s Hill Riesling ($20) or (the most lauded) Grosset Polish Hill Riesling ($52). Vermentino is a savoury and easy-drinking white with racy acidity and fresh lime – a wonderful match with seafood. Try Montevecchio Bianco ($23), a blend of mainly Vermentino and Fiano, or Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards Vermentino ($24). Rosé and summer just go hand in hand. Try Freeman Rondo Rosé ($20), Le Chat Noir Rosé ($16) or La Linea Rosé ($21). Remember to serve it ice cold. When it comes to reds, try those at the lighter end of the spectrum. Grenache offers bright berry flavours and a little spice. Try S.C. Pannell Grenache ($55) or Wirra Wirra The Absconder Grenache ($70). Gamay is famous for making the lighter Beaujolais reds of France, which have floral notes, some berries and a little spice and acid; and is ideal for warmer weather. Try De Bortoli Roundstone Vinoque Gamay ($25) or Sorrenberg Gamay ($40). d. Follow Andrea at newrubypress.com; send your questions for Andrea to: [email protected] with ÔWhat to drink whenÕ in the subject line.

A wonderful example of a modern Australian rosé, this wine is pale, dry and delicious. Brimming with wafts of red fruit, rosehip and a little spice, the wine is bone-dry with refreshing acidity to finish. Chill it down and drink it up.

$$$

Wirra Wirra The Absconder Grenache 2012, $70 A variety that is doing very well in Australia, this wine is bright and charming, offering aromas of crushed red berries, some earth and a hint of spice. The palate is medium-bodied, offering berries, spice and lovely soft tannins.

“Is it ever OK to put ice cubes in wine?”

Putting ice in your wine is not against any laws, it’s merely a wine-drinking faux pas. Or is it? Well, when wine is too warm, the aromas dissipate and all you’re left with is tepid alcohol that makes for an unpleasant drink. To my mind, it’s better to put a cube or two of ice in your wine to cool it down and keep it fresh, than to drink it warm. However, when it comes to old, rare or special wine, I take all of this back.

illustrAtions sTephAnie WesTCoTT

With outdoor entertaining on the agenda, Andrea shares favourite wines for summer.

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La Linea Rosé 2013, $21

Words AndReA fRosT

Take it outside

Possibly one of the best-value wines around, Jacob’s Creek Riesling is a highly awarded and easy-drinking wine. This wine offers lovely floral aromatics, a squeeze of citrus on the palate and a gentle line of acid to finish.

EAT WELL . BE WELL .

share your corolla memories and win a goodtime in daylesford, Victoria Share your Corolla goodtimes memories and have the opportunity to create more goodtime moments with this spectacular foodie weekend away. Winners will be flown to Melbourne to go and stay at the luxurious Lake House in Daylesford to enjoy a spa experience, fine-dining tasting dinner and private cooking demonstrations. To enter, simply visit: toyota.com.a:/goodtimes and share your favourite Corolla moment Ð whether it was your first car or a road trip with friends. These days, the Corolla Hatch has a more sporty design to keep the goodtimes coming.

win the ultimate foodie weekend To enter, tell us, in 100 words or less, your Corolla goodtime story and you could go in the draw to win: • 4 x return business-class flights to Melbourne from your nearest Australian capital city. • 3 nights’ accommodation in a waterfront suite at Lake House. • A tasting-menu dinner for 4 people, valued at $250 per person. • Private cooking demonstrations for 4 people at Lake House. • Spa experiences for 4 people at Lake House. To enTer, visiT: ToyoTa.Com.au/goodTimes

• To find out more about Corolla, visit: toyota.com.a:/corolla * Entry open to Australian residents aged 18 years and over. Prize valued at up to $22,500 (incl GST). Promotion commences on 02/01/2014 at 12:00pm AEDT and closes at 11:59am AEDT on 30/01/2014. To enter, go to toyota.com.au/corolla/goodtimes and submit your entry. Judged on 07/02/2014. Winners will be notified in writing and published on the Toyota website toyota.com.au (Newsroom section) on 12/02/2014. Prize must be claimed by 07/03/2014. Prizes must be used on or by dates, and in the manner set out in the promotional Terms and Conditions. For full promotional Terms and Conditions, go to toyota.com.au/corolla/goodtimes. Promoter: Toyota Motor Corporation Australia Limited (ABN 64 009 686 097) 155 Bertie Street, Port Melbourne VIC 3207.

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insider.

words Lizzie LoeL

food photography ALAn Benson

styling ViVien wALsh

Wood Fire Grill

WHERE noosa wharf, 2 Quamby pl, noosa heads, Qld, (07) 5447 2455. WHo owner Brent ogilvie, who also owns famed rickys next door and nearby aromas cafe, with chef luke Czajkowskyj (ex-rockpool Bar & grill and flying fish) who heads up the team in the open marble-clad kitchen. THE BUZZ walls of firewood make it a cosy spot, but the parkland and river views bring salty breezes – a gentle reminder you are dining in paradise. THE MENU Cooking is centred on the roaring woodfire, and provenance is key for meat, seafood and produce. THE DRINKS Craft beers and ciders are on tap, there’s a small list of classic cocktails and a strong international wine list compliments the beef-centric menu. MUST EAT try the bone marrow with garlic and parsley on sourdough or the smoky chargrilled king prawns with herby chimichurri.

Into the fire

The team behind Noosa favourite Rickys now has a spin-off restaurant, where it’s all about fresh produce cooked over flames.

king prawns with chimichurri serves 4-6 as a starter 16 green king prawns, (shells intact), heads and legs removed 11/2 cups flat-leaf parsley leaves 1/2 cup oregano leaves 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp chilli flakes 100ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to brush 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp dried oregano Juice of 1/2 lemon, plus wedges to serve

Dilute 2 tsp salt in 1 tbs hot water and set aside to cool. Split the whole prawns lengthways and devein. Set aside. To make the chimichurri, whiz remaining ingredients, except the lemon wedges, with salt water in a small food processor until smooth. Transfer half to a large bowl. Add prawns, then cover and chill for 15 minutes to marinate. Set aside the remaining chimichurri until ready to serve. Preheat a chargrill pan over high heat and brush with oil. Grill prawns, flesh-side down for 2-3 minutes. Turn and cook for a further 1 minute or until cooked through. Serve the prawns drizzled with reserved chimichurri and lemon wedges on the side.

delicious. 33

insider.

Eurovision pork schnitzel with slaw Serves 4 7 star anise 5 bay leaves 2 tsp each fennel and coriander seeds 2 /3 cup (190g) cooking salt 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar 800g pork neck, skin and rind removed (ask your butcher to do this) to give 600g fillet 2 /3 cup (100g) plain flour 3 eggs, lightly beaten with 1 tbs water 12 /3 cups (120g) fresh rye breadcrumbs 75g unsalted butter 1/2 cup (125ml) sunflower oil Lemon wedges, to serve Slaw 1 Lebanese cucumber, thinly sliced 6 chives, roughly chopped 1 radicchio heart, shredded 1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves 2 tbs creme fraiche or sour cream 2 tbs pure (thin) cream 1 tsp Dijon mustard

34 delicious.

2 tsp white vinegar 11/2 tbs olive oil 1 tsp caster sugar Combine anise, bay, fennel and coriander seeds, salt and sugar with 2L (8 cups) water in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to the boil, then cook for 3-4 minutes until sugar dissolves. Cool completely. Transfer to a plastic container, then add pork, cover and chill overnight to brine. Drain pork, discarding brine. Cut pork into four 150g pieces, then place between 2 pieces of plastic wrap and lightly flatten with a meat mallet. Dust pork in flour, then dip in eggwash and coat in breadcrumbs. Heat butter and sunflower oil in a frypan over medium heat. Shallow-fry pork for 4 minutes each side or until golden. Drain on paper towel. For the slaw, combine the cucumber, chives, radicchio and parsley in a bowl. Whisk the remaining ingredients together in a small bowl, then season and drizzle over the slaw. Serve pork with slaw and lemon wedges.

Rushcutters

WHERE 10 neild ave, rushcutters Bay, nsW, (02) 9326 9348. WHo Keystone group has teamed up with executive chef Martin Boetz (ex-longrain) and head chef Kasper christensen (ex-Quay). THE buzz the site of the former neild avenue restaurant has been given a rustic farmhouse vibe with a vaulted beam ceiling, exposed brick walls and splashes of greenery across the bar, deli and open dining room. THE mEnu full-flavoured and seasonal, featuring produce from Martin’s hawkesbury river farm, the cook’s co-op; European-inspired with smoked meats, german-style house-made rye and simple salads. THE dRinks Wines are by the glass, beers are on tap and cocktails are made with natural sweeteners. musT EaT the plump fried sardines with sweet roasted tomatoes, and from 5pm the pick of the menu is the brined pork schnitzel.

Words Heidi Finnane location photography Mary canning food photography alan BenSon styling ViVien walSH

After 13 years at Sydney’s Longrain, Martin Boetz returns to his European roots with the new pared back, all-day diner Rushcutters.

TEN D ERIS E OR S TIRF R Y MAKE IT

insider.

cofee granita Serves 6 1/2

cup (110g) caster sugar 1 tbs instant coffee granules dissolved in 200ml hot water 50ml Kahlua (or other coffee liqueur) Whipped cream and shaved dark chocolate, to serve Combine the sugar and hot coffee in a large bowl, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add Kahlua and 200ml cold

36 delicious.

water, then stir to combine. Pour the mixture into a shallow container, then freeze for 1 hour or until partially frozen. Remove the container from the freezer and break up the crystals by scraping the surface with a fork. Return to the freezer for 1 hour, then repeat process two more times. Transfer granita to an airtight container and freeze until needed. To serve, divide the granita among 6 small serving glasses. Top with a dollop of whipped cream, sprinkle with chocolate shavings and serve immediately.

food photography alan BenSon

The home of the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra, Hamer Hall, now also houses bright new Italian eatery Fatto Bar & Cantina.

words Hilary Mcnevin

Cool concerto

WHERE 100 st Kilda rd, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 8698 8800. WHo the Van haandel group – owners of stokehouse in st Kilda and Brisbane, and Comme in Melbourne CBd – opened the hamer hall site as trocadero in 2012, but have recently relaunched it as fatto Bar & Cantina. THE BUZZ a chic redesign by design studio projects of imagination brings a mod-bistro feel, and the group’s executive chef and creative director, anthony Musarra is back in the kitchen cooking italian-influenced dishes. THE MENU there is a large appetizer section – think focaccia with whipped ricotta, crushed peas and beans – classic pasta dishes and meaty mains. THE DRINKS a savvy list of australian and italian wines and aperitivos. MUST EAT pastas are a must, try the ravioli with roasted broccoli or crab spaghettini, then skip espresso and head straight for a coffee granita. d.

styling vivien walSH

Fatto Bar & Cantina

Recipes rebecca smith & lucy williams photogRaphy maja smend styling jenny iggleden, rachel jukes & lucy o’reilly

Tarts

keep a packet of pastry on standby in the freezer and you’ll never be caught out again for last-minute summer picnics. delicious. 39

< pancetta, pecorino & herb tart Serves 4-6 300ml thickened cream 1 large (quiche size) sheet 1/4 cup (60ml) milk frozen shortcrust 1/2 cup (40g) grated pecorino pastry, thawed 150g pancetta, chopped 1 tbs each chopped flat-leaf 1 egg, plus 2 extra egg yolks parsley, mint and basil Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease a 20cm (3cm deep) loose-bottomed tart pan. Line pan with pastry, trimming any excess, then chill for 15 minutes. Line tart with baking paper and fill with pastry weights. Cook for 10 minutes, then remove weights and baking paper. Return to the oven and cook for a further 5 minutes or until golden. Meanwhile, heat a frypan over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, for 4-5 minutes until crisp. Remove from heat and drain on paper towel. Combine egg and extra yolks, cream, milk and cheese in a bowl. Season, then stir through herbs. Scatter half the pancetta over the tart shell, then pour over egg mixture and top with remaining pancetta. Bake for 30-35 minutes until filling is golden and set. Cool for 15 minutes, then remove from pan, slice and serve.

crab & watercress soufe tarts > Serves 4 2 sheets frozen shortcrust pastry, thawed 2 eggs, separated 15g unsalted butter 15g plain flour

Large pinch cayenne pepper 150ml milk 200g fresh cooked crabmeat* 1 cup watercress leaves, finely chopped

Preheat oven to 200°C and grease four 10cm loose-bottomed tart pans. Line pans with pastry, trimming any excess, then chill for 15 minutes. Line tarts with baking paper and pastry weights, then bake for 10 minutes. Remove weights and baking paper, then cook for a further 5 minutes or until golden. Meanwhile, whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until soft peaks form. In a separate bowl, beat yolks until smooth. Set aside. Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and cayenne pepper, then cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until flour is well combined. Slowly add milk, whisking constantly for 2-3 minutes until thick. Remove from heat, then add egg yolks, crabmeat, and watercress, stirring to combine. Season. Gently fold 1 tbs eggwhite through crab mixture to loosen, then fold through remaining eggwhite. Divide mixture among tart pans, then place on a baking tray and bake for 15 minutes or until filling is golden and set. Remove from pans, then serve.

* Fresh cooked crabmeat is available from fishmongers. 40 delicious.

easy does it.

< leek & feta tart Serves 6 1 large (quiche size) sheet frozen shortcrust pastry, thawed 25g unsalted butter 2 leeks (white part only), thinly sliced

100g good-quality feta, crumbled 200ml thickened cream 100ml milk 2 eggs, plus 2 extra yolks

Preheat the oven to 170°C and grease a 23cm loose-bottomed tart pan. Line pan with pastry, trimming any excess, then chill for 15 minutes. Line tart with baking paper and fill with pastry weights. Cook for 10 minutes, then remove weights and baking paper. Return to the oven and cook for a further 5 minutes or until golden. Meanwhile, melt butter in a large frypan over medium heat. Add leek and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes until softened. Season, then scatter leek and feta over the tart shell. Combine the cream, milk, egg and extra egg yolks in a bowl. Season well, then pour over the leek. Bake for 30 minutes or until filling is golden and set. Cool for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and serve.

peach & cinnamon puf pastry squares > Serves 4 1 sheet frozen butter puff pastry, thawed 1 egg, lightly beaten 4 small peaches

1/2

cup (110g) caster sugar 2 cinnamon quills Mascarpone or thick cream, to serve

Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place the pastry on a baking paper-lined baking tray. Prick all over with a fork and brush with egg. Cover with a sheet of baking paper and top with a heavy tray. Bake for 15 minutes or until crisp and golden. Meanwhile, cut a small cross in the base of each peach. Blanch the peaches in a saucepan of boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain and refresh in cold water, then peel and slice into wedges. Combine sugar, cinnamon and 1 cup (250ml) water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes until sugar dissolves. Add peach and cook for 5 minutes or until peach is tender. Remove peach and set aside, then increase heat to high and bring liquid to the boil. Cook for 7 minutes or until reduced and syrupy. Discard cinnamon and set syrup aside. Arrange the peach over the pastry, then drizzle over the syrup. Slice into 4 squares, then serve with mascarpone. d.

reasons

to barbecue

Just the thought of outdoor smokers, spits and steaks gets Matt all hot under the collar, so this month he can’t settle on only 5 reasons to grill. “You are to cut it into pieces, and the priest shall arrange them on the wood that is burning on the altar… It is a burnt ofering, a food ofering, an aroma pleasing to the Lord.” Here it is, writ large as life in The Bible… God loves a barbecue! And who are we to disagree, so rather than my usual 5 reasons, here are S reasons. Why? Because there are just so many more reasons starting with S!

SLABS

some excellent smoky flavours. You can achieve this on your lidded or kettle barbecue by buying wood chips, throwing them in a holed metal smoker box (available from barbecue shops and big hardware places), wrapping them in heavy duty aluminium foil, or arranging them in a small robust metal roasting tray, before introducing them to heat to make them smoulder. This summer, I intend to sneak round to chef Ben Shewry’s home to play with his giant US style smoker-cum-barbecue that is the size of a small locomotive and that will smoke and slow-cook everything from hogs mopped with glaze to beef brisket.

SKEWERS

Of course, the other route is to ask your butcher to cut your steaks super-thin and blast them on a searing-hot grill. I love steak done this way for steak sandwiches with slow-cooked onions, rocket, beetroot and horseradish.

Skewers are a sure-fire winner with kids, about the easiest of all meats to cook, and an invitation to be creative. Lengths of spice-rubbed tenderloin served with peanut sauce for ‘satay’; skewered cubes of lamb, or coriander seed-rubbed pork, grilled as Russian ‘shashlyk’; or to make Greek ‘souvlaki’ or Turkish ‘sis kebabi’. I prefer to marinate my lamb or chicken Indian-style in yoghurt with spices, or take a leaf out of the Iranian kitchen by blitzing onions so I can steep the meat in onion juice overnight – this makes for wonderfully tender meat. My favourite skewers are not marinated at all. There’s an old Portuguese recipe that interweaves lightly crushed whole fresh bay leaves with beef onto skewers, then grills them slowly. The leaf oils give the meat a beautiful flavour and as the leaves burn, the smoke adds another layer of flavour. Also, don’t forget the Cypriot caul-wrapped ‘sheftalia’ skewers, which are not all that diferent to our next ‘S’ – the superstar of the barbecue.

SMOKE

SAUSAGES

Refers to icy cold beer obviously, as a barbecue without beer is like a pagan festival without a sacrifice. Slabs also account for meat. Get all Neanderthal and throw a whole hunk of animal on the grill to commune with your cave-dwelling ancestors. Perhaps a beef fillet (nicely seasoned with salt only as this will help a perfect crust to form; no pepper because that will burn) or a boned-out leg of lamb marinated in oil, lemon, garlic and rosemary. Start the meat on a very hot grill or flat plate over a direct heat, then when it’s got a lovely burnished surface swap it over to the cool side of the barbecue and cook it with the lid down and with only indirect heat until done to your liking.

STEAK

While Aussie ‘barbies’ are all about quick cookery, in the US South, where barbecuing is also a religion, it’s all about taking things slow ‘n’ steady, with indirect heat and pits, which are very diferent from our chrome-domed gas guzzlers. Slower cooking benefits cheap cuts of meat and also allows the meat to pick up

This is what puts the sizzle into the barbecue. Just a few tips when cooking your snags: make sure they are at room temperature before cooking; toast them up on a hot grill first; then let them finish on a far lower heat – this should ensure that they’re succulent and cooked through.

illustration Stephanie weStcott

“I received a spit for my birthday, so lambs and suckling pigs are destined to slowly turn (and turn) into dinner.”

matt preston.

SPIT

This summer, I’ll be inviting many more people round each time I throw a barbecue because I received a spit for my birthday. So, whole lambs and suckling pigs are destined to slowly turn (and turn) into dinner. You’ll find basic spits selling at mega-hardware shops for about $100.

SEAFOOD

Sure the barbecue may be all about satisfying the desire for meat but don’t forget the beauty of bugs or lobsters cooked in the half shell, or prawns cooked on skewers for ease. Or cook prawns a la plancha as the Spanish do, so they curl up orange with chunks of chorizo, capsicum and blistered cherry tomatoes.

SWEETCORN

While I understand there is a place for grilling eggplant, field mushrooms or zucchini, really the only vego solution that cuts it for me on the same level as a good snag or steak is roasty-edged cobs of sweet corn. These you can slather with butter, salt, lime juice and dark brown sugar (for a sharper version of the Dutch classic) or a mix of toasted shredded coconut, chilli powder and fresh red chilli, cut with a little sugar and salt.

SWEET

There used to be that thing when people would ask everyone to bring their own meat to the barbecue, but I would far rather they brought their own desserts. Personally I could just go a Lime Splice or barbecued bananas cooked in their skins with chunks of chocolate pushed into the flesh through a single long incision. And don’t forget that sweet works well with desserts as well as with savoury. Pineapple is a case in point. In that new cookbook of mine, I’ve got a recipe for pineapple with lime syrup and black pepper which is ace on the grill but you can also fry rings of it next to bacon for a killer Aussie burger. Why not go all out and just fry the pineapple in the bacon fat?

SALADS

Please close the curtains and disconnect the phone. What I am about to tell you might have the Secret Grill Police banging on my door to confiscate my tongs if they heard what I am about to share, to wit: I think that the salads are more interesting than the meat at a barbecue – and that’s not just because I’d rather hang out with women than men overly keen on proving their alpha-dom. I’d love to tell you more, but we’ll have to save that for my next column... d. Matt Preston’s new cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Unbelievably Delicious (Plum/Pan Macmillan; $39.95) is on sale now. delicious. 43

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Looking for summer salad inspiration? ALMOND PAN FRIED HALOUMI, ROCKET AND ORANGE SALAD INGREDIENTS

METHOD

TIPS

juice of 1 orange 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard 125g baby rocket leaves 1 cup parsley leaves 3 oranges, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 180g packet Lemnos Haloumi, cut into 1/2 cm thick slices plain flour, for dusting 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 1/2 cups fresh breadcrumbs 1/2 cup natural flaked almonds, roughly chopped oil, for shallow frying

1. Combine orange juice, oil, garlic and mustard in a jar and shake until well combined.

• This salad makes a perfect vegetarian meal.

www.lemnosfoods.com

2. Arrange rocket, parsley and orange slices on a serving platter. 3. Coat haloumi in flour, dip in egg and roll in combined breadcrumbs and almonds, pressing firmly.

• To save time, cook haloumi in advance and then flash in a hot oven for 2-3 minutes just prior to serving.

4. Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat and cook haloumi on each side, until golden. Drain on absorbent paper, before adding to salad greens. Drizzle with dressing and serve immediately.

te life the Mediterranean way

• Katie Quinn Davies’ menu for two • Tropical desserts • Valli Little’s beach barbecue

delicious. 47

valli’s kitchen diary.

goe down

What better way to enjoy a fresh catch of seafood than with a sunset beach barbecue? Simply prep your herbs and sauces in advance, then sit back and relax as the food sizzles on the open flames.

delicious. 49

valli’s kitchen diary.

Chilli soy marinade 2 small red chillies, seeds removed, finely chopped 2 tbs light soy sauce 1/3 cup (80ml) oyster sauce 2 tbs fish sauce 2 tbs palm sugar 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped For the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Add the prawns and toss to coat. Set aside for at least 30 minutes to marinate. Preheat a barbecue or chargrill to high and cook the prawns, turning, for 4 minutes or until cooked through. Combine ponzu and aioli in a bowl. Serve prawns with the ponzu aioli, lime wedges and snow pea tendrils, if using.

Serves 4

salmon escalopes with dill & avocado salad Serves 4 1/4

cup (60ml) olive oil, plus extra to brush Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tbs lemon juice and wedges to serve 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 4 x 200g skinless salmon fillets 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 1 tbs Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar Dill & avocado salad 2 Lebanese cucumbers, halved, sliced 1 avocado, halved, sliced 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked 1/2 bunch dill, fronds picked Combine the olive oil, lemon zest and garlic, then season well. Slice the salmon on a 45-degree angle into 1cm-thick slices.

50 delicious.

Coat the salmon in the marinade and set aside for 15 minutes. Preheat a barbecue or chargrill to high. Combine the extra virgin olive oil, vinegar and lemon juice. Season well and set dressing aside. For the salad, combine all ingredients. Brush the chargrill with olive oil and cook the salmon for 30 seconds each side or until just cooked and slightly charred. Toss the salad with the dressing, then serve with the salmon and lemon wedges.

chilli soy prawns with ponzu aioli Serves 4 as a starter 12 large green prawns (unpeeled) 2 tbs ponzu sauce* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56) 300g aioli* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56) Lime wedges and snow pea tendrils* (optional – see Cook’s Notes, p 56), to serve

400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp smoked paprika (pimenton)* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56) 2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush 8 fresh sardines, cleaned (ask your fishmonger to do this) 8 thin slices jamon or prosciutto 1 cup (320g) tomato chutney 2 tsp harissa Salad leaves, to serve Preheat a barbecue to medium-high. Place a frypan over medium heat. Combine chickpeas, cumin, pimenton and oil in a bowl, then add to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes or until chickpeas are crisp and golden. Wrap each sardine in a slice of jamon and brush with oil. Barbecue the sardines for 2-3 minutes each side until cooked through. Combine the chutney and harissa, then serve with sardines, warm chickpeas and salad leaves.

reCiPeS valli little & warren menDeS PhoTogrAPhy jeremy SimonS STyling DaviD morgan ShoT on loCATion AT PineTreeS lodge, lord hoWe iSlAnd (PineTreeS.Com.Au).

jamon-wrapped sardines with harissa and chickpeas

Salmon escalopes with dill & avocado salad. Opposite: chilli soy prawns with ponzu aioli.

valli’s kitchen diary.

chargrilled baby octopus with pico de gallo Serves 4 2 bay leaves 1 tbs whole black peppercorns 1/4 cup (60ml) white wine vinegar 1kg baby octopus, beaks removed 1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp caster sugar

52 delicious.

Pico de gallo cup (60ml) olive oil 2 long green chillies, finely chopped 2 spring onions, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tomatoes, seeds removed, chopped Juice of 1 lime, plus wedges to serve 1/2 bunch coriander, leaves chopped 1/4

Fill a large saucepan with water and add bay leaves, peppercorns, vinegar and

1 tbs sea salt. Bring to a boil, then add the octopus and cook for 30 minutes or until tender. Meanwhile, to make the pico de gallo, combine all ingredients and set aside. Drain octopus and combine with the oil, garlic and sugar. Season well. Preheat a barbecue or chargrill to high. Cook the octopus, turning, for 4-5 minutes or until charred. Serve with pico de gallo and lime wedges to squeeze over.

Jamon-wrapped sardines with harissa and chickpeas

Cut each crab into 6, using a cleaver, and make a few cracks in the shell of each piece using the blunt side of the knife. Heat the oil in a wok over high heat until it starts to smoke. Add onion, chilli, garlic, ginger and spring onion, then stir-fry for 1 minute or until fragrant. Add the crab and toss to combine. Add tomato, rice wine, sugar and kecap manis, then toss to combine. Cover and steam for 4 minutes or until crab is cooked. Serve immediately topped with kaffir lime leaf and coriander.

barramundi in banana leaf with coconut rice

whole baked snapper with ginger and chilli Serves 4 4 lemons, sliced, plus wedges to serve 6cm piece ginger, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 long red chillies, sliced 1 cup coriander leaves, plus extra to serve 1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil 2 whole snapper, cleaned (ask your fishmonger to do this), skin scored Thinly sliced spring onion and mint leaves, to serve Preheat a barbecue or chargrill to high. Place 2 sheets of foil on a workbench and top each with a sheet of baking paper. Divide half the lemon slices, ginger, garlic, chilli, coriander and oil between the paper and top with the fish. Cover with remaining lemon slices, ginger, garlic, chilli, coriander and oil, then season. Seal

54 delicious.

the parcels and cook on the barbecue for 25-30 minutes until cooked. Open the parcels and top with spring onion, herbs and lemon wedges.

chilli crab Serves 4 3 uncooked blue swimmer crabs* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56) 2 tbs peanut oil 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced 2 long red chillies, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2cm piece ginger, grated 2 spring onions, cut into batons 3 tomatoes, chopped 2 tbs Chinese rice wine (shaohsing)* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56) 1 tbs each brown sugar and kecap manis* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56) 3 kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded 1 cup coriander leaves

11/2 cups (265g) sticky rice* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56) 1 tbs fish sauce 1 tbs grated palm sugar or brown sugar 2 tbs grated ginger 4 x 200g skinless barramundi fillets 1 tbs peanut oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 6 spring onions, thinly sliced 1/2 cup (125ml) coconut milk 2 limes, sliced 4 large fresh banana leaves* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56) 4 kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded 2 long red chillies, thinly sliced Rinse rice, then soak in a bowl of cold water for 1 hour. Combine fish sauce, sugar and 1 tbs ginger in a bowl, then brush over fish. Set aside for 15 minutes to marinate. Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat and cook garlic, remaining 1 tbs ginger and half the spring onion for 2 minutes or until fragrant. Add the rice and stir to coat. Add 11/4 cups (310ml) hot water along with the coconut milk. Season and cook, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes or until rice is cooked. Preheat barbecue to high. Place 2 lime slices in the centre of each banana leaf and top with a fish fillet and kaffir lime leaf. Fold up to form parcels and enclose in foil to seal. Barbecue, turning, for 12 minutes or until cooked. Top with chilli and remaining spring onion, then serve with rice.

Opener: bunting from Terrace (Bondi and Woollahra NSW, terraceoutdoorliving.com.au); blue cloth (used throughout) from Cloth Fabric (Darlinghurst NSW, clothfabric.com).

Serves 4

valli’s kitchen diary.

Whole baked snapper with ginger and chilli. Opposite: chilli crab.

valli’s kitchen diary.

Barramundi in banana leaf with coconut rice

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chocolate s’mores Makes 12 24 white marshmallows 24 thin chocolate biscuits (we used Phillippa’s Chocolate Biscuits) 200g good-quality dark chocolate, melted Cocoa powder, to dust Place marshmallows on long skewers and hold over a barbecue until charred. Place 2 marshmallows on each of 12 biscuits, drizzle with melted chocolate and sandwich with remaining 12 biscuits. Dust with cocoa and drizzle with extra chocolate to serve. d.

Cook’s Note * Snow pea tendrils are from * * * *

selected greengrocers. Ponzu is a tart, citrus-based Japanese sauce, available from Asian grocers. Good-quality aioli and smoked paprika (pimenton) are from gourmet food shops and delis. Whole blue swimmer crabs are available from fishmongers. Chinese rice wine (shaohsing), kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) and sticky or glutinous rice (a short-grain rice that’s sticky when cooked) are available from supermarkets.

en chick t of t h g i al ou os to he hassle ecipes. c a t pork asy r ken t From we’ve ta these 7 e , h salad rtime wit e dinn

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styling berni smithies photogRaphy Jeremy simons Recipes warren mendes

smoked chicken & fig salad serves 4 11/2 tbs pomegranate molasses* (see Cook’s Notes) 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 radicchio, leaves torn 1/2 oakleaf lettuce, leaves torn 3 x 140g smoked chicken breast fillets* (see Cook’s Notes) 4 figs, quartered lengthways 1 Lebanese cucumber, halved lengthways, thinly sliced 50g manchego* (see Cook’s Notes) Sourdough, to serve

To make the dressing, combine the pomegranate molasses, oil and lemon juice in a small bowl. Season and set aside. Combine the radicchio and oakleaf lettuce in a large bowl and shred the chicken over the salad leaves, discarding the skin. Scatter over the fig and cucumber, then, using a vegetable peeler, shave over the manchego. Drizzle the dressing over salad and serve with slices of sourdough.

Cook’s Note * Pomegranate molasses is a Middle * *

Eastern condiment with a sweet/ sour flavour, available from delis. Smoked chicken breast fillets are available from selected supermarkets and delis. Manchego, a hard Spanish sheep’s milk cheese, is available from selected supermarkets and delis.

pan-fried blue-eye with wild rice salad Serves 4 1/3

cup (80ml) olive oil 4 x 200g blue-eye fillets Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus wedges to serve 1 tsp Dijon mustard 3/4 cup (135g) wild or brown rice, cooked to packet instructions, cooled

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100g marinated roasted capsicum, drained, chopped 1/3 cup (50g) pine nuts, toasted 1/2 bunch mint, leaves torn 1/2 bunch basil, leaves torn Place 2 tbs oil in a large frypan over medium heat. Season the fish and cook, skin-side down, for 4 minutes, then turn and cook for a further 3 minutes or until cooked through. Transfer to a plate and

set aside to rest, loosely covered with foil, for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, to make the dressing, combine the lemon zest and juice, mustard and remaining 2 tbs oil in a large bowl. Season, then add the cooled rice. Add the roasted capsicum, pine nuts, mint and basil, then toss to combine. Discard the skin from the fish and serve with the wild rice salad and lemon wedges to squeeze over.

daily special chorizo, ricotta & zucchini casarecce Serves 4 1 tbs olive oil 160g dried chorizo sausage, sliced 4 large zucchinis, halved lengthways, thinly sliced on the diagonal 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 400g casarecce or penne 1 cup (120g) frozen peas 1/4 cup (60ml) white wine Juice of 1/2 lemon 1/2 bunch basil leaves 100g ricotta, crumbled

Place the oil in a large frypan over medium-high heat, add chorizo and cook for 2-3 minutes until golden. Add zucchini and garlic, then cook for a further 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Set aside. Meanwhile, cook pasta to packet instructions, adding the peas for the final 2 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/3 cup (80ml) cooking water. Add the wine and lemon juice to the frypan, along with the pasta, peas, reserved water and half the basil, then season. Return to medium heat and stir to combine until heated through. Serve with ricotta and remaining basil.

peach & pork tacos Serves 4 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp cayenne pepper 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 4 x 140g pork loin medallions 1/2 tsp caster sugar 1 tbs apple cider vinegar 11/2 cups (100g) shredded red cabbage 8 mini tortillas 2 peaches, stones removed, thinly sliced 1/3 cup (80g) creme fraiche or sour cream Coriander leaves, to serve

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To make the marinade, combine the fennel seeds, cayenne pepper, garlic and oil. Season with salt. Rub over the pork and set aside for 15 minutes to marinate. Meanwhile, combine sugar and apple cider vinegar, then toss with the cabbage and set aside until ready to serve. Place a large frypan over medium heat. Add pork and cook for 4 minutes each side or until cooked through. Transfer to a plate and set aside to rest, loosely covered with foil, for 3 minutes, then thinly slice. To serve, fill each tortilla with cabbage, pork and peach. Drizzle over the creme fraiche and top with coriander leaves.

daily special dukkah-crusted lamb cutlets with strawberry couscous Serves 4 11/2 cups (300g) instant couscous 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 12 French-trimmed lamb cutlets 1/4 cup (30g) dukkah 250g punnet strawberries, quartered 1/2 bunch mint, leaves shredded

400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained 1 tbs white balsamic or white wine vinegar Thick Greek-style yoghurt, to serve Place the couscous in a large heatproof bowl, stir through 1 tbs oil and season. Add 11/2 cups (375ml) boiling water, cover and set aside for 5 minutes to absorb.

Meanwhile, place remaining 2 tbs oil in a frypan over medium-high heat. Season the lamb and cook, in 2 batches, for 2 minutes each side for medium or until cooked to your liking. Transfer to a plate and rest, loosely covered with foil, for 2 minutes. Press the lamb in the dukkah. Add berries, mint, chickpeas and vinegar to the couscous, then season and toss to combine. Serve with the lamb and yoghurt.

seafood espetada (portuguese skewers) Serves 4-6 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 long red chillies, seeds removed, finely chopped 2 tsp ground ginger 3 tsp sweet paprika 2 tsp dried oregano 1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil, plus extra to brush 4 limes, cut into wedges 24 prawns, peeled (tails intact), deveined 300g squid tubes, cut into 3cm strips 400g swordfish fillets, cut into 3cm pieces 4 corn cobs Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve

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If you don’t have 12 metal skewers, soak 12 wooden skewers in cold water for 30 minutes, then drain. Preheat a chargrill or barbecue to high. To make the marinade, combine the garlic, chilli, ginger, paprika, oregano and oil, then season. To make one skewer, thread 1 lime wedge, 1 prawn, 1 piece of squid and 1 piece of swordfish onto a skewer, then repeat. Repeat with remaining skewers, then coat in the marinade. Brush corn with oil and chargrill, turning, for 10 minutes, until blistered and tender. Set aside. Brush chargrill with oil and cook skewers, in batches, for 2-3 minutes each side until cooked through. Slice the corn off the cob, garnish with parsley and serve with the skewers.

daily special

garlic & ginger eye fillet with quick cucumber & radish pickle Serves 4 1/4 cup (60ml) apple cider vinegar 11/2 tbs caster sugar 2 tbs grated ginger 2 small Lebanese cucumbers, halved lengthways, sliced into ribbons (using a vegetable peeler) 4 radishes, thinly sliced

1 tsp sesame seeds 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 800g beef eye fillet, tied at 3cm intervals 2 tbs olive oil Rocket leaves, to serve For the pickle, combine the vinegar, sugar, 1 tbs ginger and 1 tsp salt in a bowl with the cucumber, radish and sesame seeds. Set aside for 30 minutes to pickle.

Preheat oven to 200°C. Rub garlic and remaining 1 tbs ginger over beef, and season. Heat the oil in a large frypan over medium-high heat. Cook beef, turning, for 4-5 minutes until browned. Transfer to a baking tray and roast in the oven for 15 minutes for medium-rare or until cooked to your liking. Transfer to a plate and rest, loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes. Slice the beef and serve with rocket and the cucumber and radish pickle. d.

recipes, photography & styling Katie Quinn Davies

katie quinn davies.

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Queen of Dim the lights and create the perfect mood to swoon this Valentine’s Day with Katie’s elegant dinner for two.

Raspberry, prosecco & mint cocktail (recipe p 71)

I’ve never really been one for heading out to a restaurant on February 14th, opting, more often than not, to cook at home. Coming from Ireland, I grew up with Valentine’s Day falling smack bang in the middle of the coldest month of the year, but now that I live in Australia, my world’s literally upside down and I have to think of lighter fare when planning a special dinner for two in February. So, first of is a light and colourful cocktail using prosecco – a wonderful alternative to Champagne. It’s lighter, more afordable and pairs superbly with fresh raspberries and mint. Valentine’s Day is as good excuse as any to splurge on special-occasion ingredients, such as lobster, used as a filling

for tortelloni. I like to use lobster fresh from the fish markets, but you can substitute prawn – it’s a perfectly good alternative. It was inevitable steak was going to feature on this menu (requested by my husband, Mick) so I’ve opted for a rib-eye steak on the bone, served with a lemon, caper and dill butter, and paired with a beetroot and maple-roasted walnut salad. Rather than the usual chunky chips, I’ve made some oven baked ‘crisps’, and I challenge you not to eat half of them straight from the tray before serving. For dessert, cardamom panna cotta, which can be prepared the night before, is embellished with pistachio praline for efect – all you need to add is a glass of a good sticky wine. Visit: whatkatieate.com.

“valentine’s day is a good excuse to splurge on special ingredients.”

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katie quinn davies.

Lobster & ricotta tortelloni with prosecco & tomato sauce

katie quinn davies.

Rib-eye steaks with lemon, caper & dill butter; beetroot, blue cheese & maple-roasted walnut salad; baked salt & vinegar potato crisps and thyme kumara crisps.

raspberry, prosecco & mint cocktail Makes 2 1/4

cup (55g) caster sugar 125g punnet raspberries 1/4 cup (60ml) vodka Handful mint leaves, half torn Small pinch dried chilli flakes 1/2 cup (125ml) prosecco or Champagne Place sugar and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook for 1-2 minutes until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and cool, then cover and chill until needed. Whiz half the berries in a food processor until smooth. Strain, discarding any solids. Half-fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add vodka, torn mint leaves, chilli, raspberry puree and 2 tbs sugar syrup. Shake well, then stir in prosecco. Fill glasses with ice, strain over cocktail and serve with remaining mint and berries.

lobster & ricotta tortelloni with prosecco & tomato sauce Serves 2 2 tsp olive oil 3 vine-ripened tomatoes, chopped 1 tsp caster sugar 50g unsalted butter, chopped 1 cup (250ml) prosecco or Champagne Tabasco sauce, to taste Juice of 1/2 lemon 6 wonton wrappers or homemade pasta dough (recipe follows) Dill sprigs (optional), to serve Lobster & ricotta filling 1 tbs olive oil 2 eschalots, very finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1/2 cup (125ml) prosecco or Champagne 400g cooked lobster meat, chopped 1/3 cup (80g) ricotta 1 egg Juice of 1/2 lemon For the filling, heat oil in a frypan over medium heat. Add eschalot and garlic, then cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until

softened. Add prosecco, then bring to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes or until slightly reduced. Add lobster and cook for a further 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a food processor. Add ricotta, egg and lemon juice. Pulse until a coarse paste, then season. Transfer to a bowl, then cover and chill until needed. To make the prosecco and tomato sauce, heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add tomato and cook for 2-3 minutes until slightly softened. Add sugar and butter, then cook for 2-3 minutes until butter melts. Add prosecco, then cook for 25 minutes or until liquid has reduced by half. Remove from heat and use a stick blender to process until smooth. Stir in Tabasco and lemon juice to taste. Season and keep warm until ready to serve. If using pasta dough, cut dough into six 12cm squares. Place 2 tsp lobster filling in the centre of each wonton wrapper or pasta square, brush edges with water and fold into a triangle, pressing to seal and pushing out as much air as possible. Fold the 2 corners on the longer side into the centre and pinch together. Place on a floured tray and repeat with remaining wrappers or pasta dough and filling. Cook tortelloni in a large saucepan of boiling, salted water for 3-4 minutes until al dente. Drain, then serve with the sauce and garnish with dill sprigs, if using.

elastic. Keep rolling the dough through the settings, reducing the thickness each time, until 2mm thick. Place pasta on a flour-dusted tray and cover with a tea towel while you roll remaining dough.

rib-eye steaks with lemon, caper & dill butter Serves 2 80g unsalted butter, softened 2 tsp capers, rinsed, drained Few dill sprigs Finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon 2 x 350g rib-eye steaks (on the bone) Olive oil, to drizzle Baked crisps and beetroot salad (recipes follow), to serve Whiz butter, capers, dill, zest and juice in a food processor until combined. Transfer to a bowl, then chill until ready to serve. Heat a chargrill pan over high heat. Pat steak dry with paper towel, then season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and drizzle with oil. Cook steaks for 4-5 minutes each side for medium-rare or until cooked to your liking. Cover loosely with foil and set aside to rest for 3-5 minutes. Serve steaks immediately with lemon, caper and dill butter, baked crisps and beetroot salad.

pasta dough

baked salt & vinegar potato crisps and thyme kumara crisps

Serves 2

Serves 2

200g ‘00’ flour* (see Cook’s Notes, p 72) or plain flour, sifted 2 eggs

1 each large desiree potato and kumara (sweet potato), scrubbed, thinly sliced (using a mandoline) 2 tbs malt vinegar Olive oil spray 3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked

Whiz flour and eggs in a food processor until mixture comes together in clumps. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 2-3 minutes until smooth. Enclose in plastic wrap and chill for 15 minutes to firm up. Divide dough in half, then enclose 1 portion in plastic wrap and set aside. Start on the thickest setting of your pasta machine and run the dough through 1-2 times, folding it in half each time until

Preheat the oven to 180°C and line 2 large baking trays with baking paper. Arrange the potato slices in a single layer on 1 baking tray. Brush with vinegar, spray with olive oil and sprinkle generously with crushed sea salt flakes. Place kumara slices on the remaining tray, spray with a little olive oil, then delicious. 71

season with crushed sea salt flakes, freshly ground black pepper and thyme leaves. Bake, turning once and rotating trays halfway through cooking, for 35 minutes or until crisp and golden, then serve.

beetroot, blue cheese & maple-roasted walnut salad Serves 2 2 beetroots, peeled, cut into wedges 2 tsp balsamic vinegar, plus extra to drizzle 2 tsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 3/4 cup (75g) walnuts 1 tbs maple syrup 75g mild blue cheese (such as gorgonzola dolce), crumbled Watercress, to serve Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a large baking tray with foil. Place beetroot, vinegar, oil and thyme in a bowl. Season, then toss to coat. Place on baking tray

and roast for 50 minutes or until cooked through. Cool completely on tray. Meanwhile, line a separate baking tray with baking paper. Toss walnuts in maple syrup, then roast for 12 minutes or until golden. Cool completely on tray. Arrange watercress on a serving plate, top with beetroot, maple-roasted walnuts and cheese. Drizzle with a little extra oil and balsamic, then serve.

cardamom panna cotta with rosewater syrup and pistachio praline Makes 2 Begin this recipe a day ahead. 2 /3

cup (165ml) thickened cream cup (165ml) milk 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar 3 cardamom pods, bruised 1 titanium-strength gelatine leaf* (see Cook’s Notes) Dried rose petals* (optional – see Cook’s Notes), to serve 2 /3

Rosewater syrup 1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar 1 tsp rosewater* (see Cook’s Notes) 1-2 drops pink food colouring Pistachio praline 1/2 cup (75g) unsalted pistachio kernels 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar Combine the cream, milk, sugar and cardamom in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes for the flavours to infuse. Remove from heat. Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes to soften. Squeeze excess water

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from gelatine, then stir into cream mixture until melted and combined. Stand the cream mixture for 10 minutes, then strain, discarding solids. Divide mixture between two 1 cup (250ml) serving glasses, then cover and chill overnight to set. For the syrup, combine sugar, rosewater and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low and cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until sugar dissolves. Swirl through food colouring. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely. Pour over panna cottas, then chill for 1 hour or until syrup sets. Meanwhile, for the praline, line a baking tray with baking paper, then place the pistachios in the centre. Combine sugar and 2 tbs water in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high, bring to the boil, then cook, without stirring, for 12 minutes or until golden. Immediately pour over the pistachios, then chill for 1 hour or until set. Break the praline into shards, then place in a small food processor and pulse until crumbs. Sprinkle over the panna cottas and top with rose petals, if using, then serve. d.

Cook’s Note * ‘00’ is a super-fine Italian flour grade *

*

used to make pasta, from gourmet food shops; substitute plain flour. Gelatine leaves are available from gourmet food shops and selected supermarkets. Check the packet for setting instructions. Dried rose petals and rosewater add a floral note and are available from Middle Eastern shops, delis and selected gourmet food shops.

katie quinn davies.

Cardamom panna cotta with rosewater syrup and pistachio praline

Macadamia biscuit ice cream sandwiches. Opposite: homemade lemonade ice pops.

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recipes , photography & styling The Food depT.

Colourful, refreshing and packed with bright tropical flavours, you’ll make these gorgeous desserts from Sydney blog The Food Dept. all summer long.

wicked.

wicked. passionfruit & white chocolate eclairs Makes 16 2 cups (500ml) milk 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 3 eggs, lightly beaten, plus 6 extra egg yolks 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 1 cup (150g) plain flour 60g unsalted butter Pulp from 3 large passionfruit, 1 tbs strained passionfruit juice (from 2 passionfruit) 1 cup (150g) icing sugar, sifted 200g white chocolate, melted 1 tbs light olive oil To make the passionfruit custard, place milk and vanilla pod and seeds in a saucepan over low heat and bring to a simmer. Combine the egg yolks, sugar and 1/4 cup (35g) flour in a bowl and whisk until light and creamy. Discard the vanilla pod and gradually pour the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture, whisking constantly until combined. Return custard to the saucepan over low heat and cook, whisking constantly, for 8-10 minutes until thickened. Transfer to a bowl, cover the surface with

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plastic wrap to prevent a skin forming and chill for 2-3 hours. Preheat oven to 230°C. Place butter and 3/4 cup (185ml) water in a saucepan over medium heat until the butter has melted. Bring to the boil. Add the remaining 3/4 cup (110g) flour, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon for 2-3 minutes until the mixture forms a smooth ball. Set dough aside to cool slightly. Place dough in a large bowl, add beaten egg, a little at a time, beating well with electric beaters after each addition until smooth. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a large star nozzle and pipe sixteen 8cm lengths onto a baking paper-lined baking tray. Sprinkle eclairs with water and bake for 7 minutes. Reduce oven to 180°C and cook for a further 20-25 minutes until golden. Pierce one short side of each eclair with a skewer and set aside to dry and cool. Remove custard from fridge, fold through the passionfruit pulp and return to fridge for 1 hour to set. Place custard in a piping bag fitted with a plain 1cm nozzle. Pipe custard into the holes in the eclairs. To make the passionfruit icing, combine the icing sugar and passionfruit juice in a bowl and stir until smooth. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a fine nozzle and set aside. Combine the white chocolate and oil in a bowl, and stir until smooth. Dip the top of each eclair into the white chocolate and place on a sheet of baking paper. Drizzle the passionfruit icing, back and forth across the eclairs, then run a bamboo skewer up and down the length of the eclairs to create a marbling effect. Allow the icing to set, then serve.

fruit skewers with gingersnap crumbs and coconut cream Serves 4 You can use any fruit – select varieties with contrasting colours and flavours. 1/2

cup (125ml) thickened cream cup (125ml) coconut cream 1/2 cup coconut sugar * (see Cook's Notes, p 81) 125g gingersnap biscuits 1 each mango, kiwifruit and banana 2 star fruit 1 tamarillo or peach 1/2 papaya 1/2 small pineapple 1/2

Soak 12 wooden skewers in water for 15 minutes. Combine thickened cream, coconut cream and 1 tsp coconut sugar in a bowl and whisk until the cream has thickened. Chill until ready to serve. Whiz the biscuits in a food processor until fine crumbs, then set aside until ready to serve. Slice the fruit into equal-sized pieces and thread onto skewers. Place the skewers on a baking tray lined with foil and sprinkle the fruit with half the remaining coconut sugar. Using a blowtorch, brulee the fruit until the sugar has melted and caramelised. (Alternatively, place skewers under a hot grill, turning, for 4 minutes or until caramelised.) Sprinkle the remaining coconut sugar over the fruit and brulee again until a deep golden colour. Serve skewers immediately with coconut cream and gingersnap crumbs.

Passionfruit & white chocolate eclairs

black sticky rice with chilli caramel mango Serves 6 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 11/2 cups (300g) black sticky rice* (see Cook's Notes, p 81) 3 pandan leaves* (see Cook's Notes, p 81), tied in a knot 1 cup (270g) finely grated dark palm sugar, plus 2 tbs extra 3 large mangoes 1/4 tsp dried chilli flakes 1 cup (250ml) coconut cream

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Soak the rice in cold water overnight. Drain and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear. Combine the rice, 3 cups (370ml) water, pandan leaves and a pinch of salt in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over low heat. Simmer for 35 minutes or until the water has been absorbed and the rice is tender. Remove from the heat, cover and leave to steam for a further 15 minutes. Discard the pandan leaves. Combine the palm sugar and 1/3 cup (80ml) boiling water in a heatproof bowl and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Stir three quarters of the palm sugar syrup through the rice, reserving the remaining to serve. Cover the rice to keep warm. Cut the cheeks from the mangoes and sprinkle with chilli and extra palm sugar. Drizzle the rice with coconut cream and remaining palm sugar syrup, then serve with mango cheeks.

wicked.

Fruit skewers with gingersnap crumbs and coconut cream

macadamia biscuit ice cream sandwiches Makes 10 125g unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 /3 cup (150g) raw sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 egg 3/4 cup (110g) plain flour 1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 11/4 cups (110g) rolled oats 1 cup (150g) salted macadamia nuts, coarsely chopped Selection of store-bought flavoured ice cream (we used coconut, passionfruit and strawberry) Preheat oven to 180ºC. Combine butter and sugar in a bowl. Using electric beaters, beat until thick and pale. Add vanilla and egg, then beat until combined. Sift together the flour and bicarbonate of soda. Add the flour mixture, oats and macadamia nuts to the creamed butter and sugar, and stir to combine. Line 2 baking tray with baking paper and place tablespoonfuls of mixture on the trays, flattening to 1/2 cm thick. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden and crisp. Allow to cool on trays. To serve, sandwich the ice cream between the biscuits. Serve immediately or keep in the freezer.

homemade lemonade ice pops Makes 8 You will need eight 1/3 cup (80ml) ice block moulds for this recipe. 1/2

cup (110g) caster sugar cup (125ml) lemon juice 11/2 cups roughly chopped tropical fruit (cut to fit your moulds – such as papaya, pineapple, mango, star fruit, lychee, kiwifruit and passionfruit)

1/2

Combine the sugar and 1 cup (250ml) water in a saucepan over low heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Once cooled, add the lemon juice. Divide the fruit among the ice block moulds, pressing the cut surfaces against the sides. Pour over the homemade lemonade, then cover and place in the freezer for at least 6 hours or overnight until frozen and set. Remove the ice blocks from the moulds to serve.

hummingbird cake with tofee pecans Serves 8-10 1kg pineapple, peeled 180g softened unsalted butter 11/4 cups (275g) raw caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 eggs 1 large ripe banana, mashed 1 cup (90g) shredded coconut 2 /3 cup (80g) pecans, roughly chopped 2 cups (300g) self-raising flour, sifted 1 tsp ground cinnamon Cream cheese icing 2 x 250g packets softened cream cheese 80g softened unsalted butter 11/3 cups (200g) icing sugar Toffee pecans 1 cup (220g) raw caster sugar 1 cup (140g) pecans

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Preheat oven to 100°C. Cut 10 x 2mm-thick slices from the pineapple. Arrange in a single layer on a baking paper-lined baking tray and bake for 1 hour. Turn slices over and return to oven for a further 1 hour or until pineapple is dry. Remove from oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Core the remaining piece of pineapple and roughly chop. Use a food processor to whiz the pineapple until just crushed. You will need about 250g crushed pineapple for the cake. Grease and line two 20cm round cake pans and increase the oven to 180ºC. Using electric beaters, beat butter and sugar together until combined. Add the vanilla and eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the crushed pineapple, banana, coconut and pecans, then stir to combine. Add flour, cinnamon and a pinch of salt, then stir to combine. Divide the mixture between the cake pans and bake for 35-40 minutes until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Allow cakes to stand in the pans for 15 minutes to cool slightly, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. To make the icing, place the cream cheese, butter and half the icing sugar in a bowl and beat with electric beaters for 5 minutes. Add the remaining icing sugar and beat for a further 3 minutes or until light and fluffy. Chill until needed. To make the toffee pecans, combine the sugar with 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and cook, without stirring, for 10 minutes or until golden. Using a skewer, dip each pecan into the toffee. Drain off excess toffee and place the pecans on a baking paper-lined baking tray and allow to set. To assemble, secure one cake to a serving plate with a little icing. Spread 1 cup icing on the cake, then top with the second cake. Spread remaining icing over the top and sides of the cake. Decorate with dried pineapple and toffee pecans. d. Visit: thefooddept.blogspot.com.

wicked. Cook's Note * Coconut sugar is extracted

*

from the bud of a coconut palm and has a caramel flavour. It's available from supermarkets and health food shops; substitute brown sugar. Black sticky (glutinous rice) and pandan leaves are available from Asian grocers.

Hummingbird cake with toffee pecans

Point and shoot

If you’re looking to start the new year on a lighter note, there’s plenty of inspiration to be found online. Here’s our round-up of the best vegetarian and wholefood blogs out there – from a chic Scandi stylist to a creative Californian couple, these bloggers are bringing healthy and exciting vego fare to the mix.

Strawberry & rhubarb ripple frozen yoghurt (recipe p 88). Below (from left): David Frenkiel and Luise Vindahl of Green Kitchen Stories with daughter Elsa; grilled haloumi and peaches with dukkah (recipe p 86); Sarah Britton of My New Roots.

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hot blogs.

Spiced millet pilaf with beetroot, feta and mint

hot blogs.

SPROUTED KITCHEN This blog by Californian Sara Forte and her photographer husband, Hugh, documents their creative take on wholefoods. Their beautifully styled recipes make the most of seasonal ingredients allowing the quality and flavour of the produce to speak for itself. Their book The Sprouted Kitchen: A Tastier Take on Whole Foods (Random House, $34.95) is a mostly vegetarian journey into eating well and Sara and Hugh’s love of sharing food with family and friends. Visit: sproutedkitchen.com.

ranchero breakfast tostadas Serves 4 8 small corn tortillas Extra virgin olive oil, to brush 1 tbs coconut oil* (see Cook’s Notes, p 88) or unsalted butter 8 eggs 1 cup (120g) grated cheddar 2 avocados, halved, thinly sliced 1/3 cup (20g) chopped coriander 1 lime, cut into wedges Hot sauce, to serve (optional) Black bean mash 400g can black beans (frijoles), rinsed, drained 1/4 cup (60g) light sour cream 2 spring onions, finely chopped 1 tsp ground cumin For the black bean mash, place the beans in a saucepan over low heat. Add sour cream, spring onion, cumin, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper and 1/4 cup (60ml) water, then coarsely mash with a fork until heated through. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm. Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Brush the tortillas with oil and place on a baking paper-lined baking tray. Bake, turning once, for 6-8 minutes until golden.

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Place the coconut oil in a frypan over medium heat. In 2 batches, crack the eggs, 1 at a time, into the pan. Cook for 5 minutes for soft yolks or until cooked to your liking. To serve, top each tortilla with the bean mash, a sprinkling of cheese, 1 egg, some avocado and coriander. Serve 2 tostadas per person with lime wedges and hot sauce, if using.

MY DARLING LEMON THYME New Zealand-born, Perth-based blogger Emma Galloway worked as a chef for many years before becoming a mother. Soon after, she discovered that her family suffered from gluten and lactose intolerances. With her foodie know-how, she took on the challenge of creating vegetarian, gluten-free dishes for her family using fresh, seasonal flavours that she shares with the world through her sweetly named blog. Visit: mydarlinglemonthyme.com

spiced millet pilaf with beetroot, feta and mint Serves 6 1 bunch baby beetroot, leaves reserved 1/4 cup (60g) ghee* (see Cook’s Notes, p 88) or olive oil 2 tsp black mustard seeds 2 tsp yellow mustard seeds 2 tsp cumin seeds 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 11/2 long green chillies, finely chopped 3-4 curry leaves 1 tsp ground turmeric 11/2 cups (315g) hulled millet* (see Cook’s Notes, p 88) 1/2 cup (65g) cashew nuts, toasted, roughly chopped Coriander and mint leaves, feta and lemon wedges, to serve

Mint & beetroot leaf pesto Trimmed leaves from the baby beetroots, washed 1 cup (60g) packed mint leaves 1/2 cup (65g) cashew nuts, toasted 1/2 long green chilli 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup (60ml) lemon juice Place beetroots into a saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 20-25 minutes until tender. Remove from the heat, drain and set aside until cool enough to handle. Peel the beetroot and cut into pieces. Place ghee in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the mustard and cumin seeds. When the seeds start to pop, add the onion and cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes until tender. Add the garlic, chilli, curry leaves and turmeric, then cook, stirring, for a further 30 seconds or until fragrant. Stir in the millet and 1/2 tsp salt, then cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes to toast the grains. Pour in 3 cups (750ml) water (it will splatter, so take care). Stir to combine and cover with a lid. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, without stirring, for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, leave the lid on and set aside for 5 minutes before fluffing up the millet with a fork. Cover to keep warm until ready to serve. Meanwhile, place all the pesto ingredients in a small food processor and whiz until a smooth paste. Season. To make the pesto thinner, simply add a little more lemon juice and olive oil until it’s the desired consistency. Set aside until ready to serve. Stir the cashews, coriander and mint through the pilaf. To serve, spoon pilaf onto plates, top with beetroot, crumble over the feta and drizzle with pesto. Serve with extra lemon wedges to squeeze over.

Above (from left): spiced millet pilaf with beetroot, feta and mint; Emma Galloway of My Darling Lemon Thyme. Below (from left): Sara and Hugh Forte of Sprouted Kitchen; ranchero breakfast tostadas.

hot blogs.

Cutting down on carbs? Replace regular rice stick noodles with this lighter zucchini variety and serve in a fragrant coconut broth.

My new roots Canadian Sarah Britton trained as a nutritionist and chef, so it’s no wonder that holistic, vegetarian cooking that appeals to omnivores is the focus for this self-confessed “wholefood lover”. She lives in Copenhagen, Denmark, with her husband and new baby where she also finds the time to work on her first cookbook. Stay tuned for more recipes for busy mums. Visit: mynewroots.org.

grilled haloumi and peaches with dukkah Serves 4 as a starter 4 ripe peaches, cut into wedges 350g haloumi, cut into cubes 2 tbs maple syrup Lemon juice and olive oil, to serve 1/2 small bunch mint leaves, shredded Dukkah 11/2 tbs cumin seeds 1 tbs coriander seeds 1 tbs whole black peppercorns 1 cup (150g) hazelnuts, toasted, skins removed 1/2 cup (75g) sesame seeds, toasted Soak 20 wooden skewers in cold water for 1 hour. Drain. To make the dukkah, place the cumin and coriander seeds in a dry frypan over medium heat and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until fragrant. Place in a mortar and pestle with peppercorns

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and grind until fine. Place hazelnuts and sesame seeds in a small food processor and pulse to roughly chop. Transfer to a large bowl with the spices and 1 tsp salt, then stir to combine. To make the skewers, preheat a barbecue or chargrill on medium-high. Alternately thread the peaches and haloumi onto the skewers, then cook, turning, for 5-6 minutes until the peaches have charred slightly and the cheese has browned. Transfer to a serving platter. Drizzle with maple syrup, a squeeze of lemon juice and a little olive oil, then top with mint and sprinkle with dukkah.

Love and LeMons Texan couple Jeanine Donofrio and Jack Mathews are the creative minds behind this blog. Jeanine, graphic designer and “lemon-obsessed foodie”, creates the colourful recipes, while Jack, a self-declared cheese lover, is the “website tech-guy”. Together they aim to excite readers about how to make vegetable-centric, healthy food taste amazing. Many of their recipes are food allergy-friendly with options for vegan or gluten-free. Visit: loveandlemons.com.

zucchini & coconut noodles Serves 2 2 roma tomatoes, halved, seeds removed, chopped 2 cups (70g) baby spinach leaves

1 cup (35g) basil leaves 3 zucchinis, thinly sliced (using a mandoline), cut into long, thin strips 1 cup (35g) coriander leaves Crushed roasted peanuts, to serve Sriracha sauce* (see Cook’s Notes, p 88), to serve Coconut broth 1 tbs coconut oil* (see Cook’s Notes, p 81) 3 spring onions, finely chopped, plus extra to serve 1 tsp finely grated ginger 1 long red chilli, finely chopped 2 kaffir lime leaves 1 lemongrass stalk (inner core only), bruised 1 can (400ml) coconut milk 2 tsp tamari Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime Pinch coconut sugar or brown sugar To make broth, place the coconut oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the spring onion, ginger, chilli, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass, then cook for 1 minute. Add coconut milk and tamari, then simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes for flavours to infuse. Add lime zest and juice, and sugar to taste. Add the tomato, spinach and basil to the broth, then stir until just wilted. Remove broth from heat, discard lemongrass, then add zucchini. Serve immediately topped with coriander and peanuts, and sriracha on the side.

Clockwise from top left: Jeanine Donofrio of Love and Lemons; zucchini & coconut noodles; grilled haloumi and peaches with dukkah; Sarah of My New Roots.

hot blogs.

Nutty chocolate ricotta cups and a tart fruit-laced frozen yoghurt make ideal gluten-free desserts.

scandi Home Maria Laitinen – the blogger and stylist behind Scandi Home – was born in Finland and moved to Sydney in 2005. She is passionate about Scandinavian cuisine and design, and her style is heavily influenced by her Nordic background. As well as travel stories and Scandi-chic inspiration for your home, you’ll find wholesome recipes and many healthy baking ideas. Visit: scandifoodie.blogspot.com.

chocolate & ricotta cups with walnut crust Makes 10 You will need a silicone mini-muffin mould, from kitchenware shops. 1 cup (100g) walnuts 1 tbs almond meal 1 egg, plus 1 eggwhite 50g dark chocolate 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tbs honey 100g ricotta Finely grated zest of 2 oranges Icing sugar, to serve Preheat the oven to 170ºC. Place the walnuts in a food processor and whiz until they resemble coarse breadcrumbs. Add the almond meal and eggwhite, then pulse 2-3 times to combine. Take tablespoonfuls mixture and press into the bases and sides of ten 11/2 tbs (30ml) capacity silicone mini-muffin moulds. To make the filling, place the chocolate, vanilla and honey in a

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heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch the water) and stir until melted and combined, then set aside to cool. Combine ricotta, egg, cooled chocolate mixture and half the orange zest in a bowl, then stir until smooth. Spoon the filling into the walnut cups. Bake for 20 minutes or until puffed and just set, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. Dust with icing sugar and top with remaining orange zest to serve.

GReen KiTcHen sToRies Health-conscious Swedes David and Luise are the co-creators of this beautifully photographed, award-winning blog. Be inspired by the vegetarian food they create in their idyllic Stockholm home, including child-friendly dishes for daughter Elsa. Green Kitchen Stories is an intimate glimpse into the way this young family live, eat and entertain, and with their book, The Green Kitchen (Hardie Grant, $49.95), and two apps, one focusing on healthy desserts, David and Luise are successfully spreading the green message. Visit: greenkitchenstories.com.

strawberry & rhubarb ripple frozen yoghurt

Place the rhubarb, strawberry, vanilla pod and seeds, and 1/3 cup (120g) honey in a saucepan. Cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod and use a fork to mash the fruit to a puree. Place in the fridge for 1 hour to chill. Combine the yoghurt, the remaining 60g honey and three-quarters of the fruit puree in a large bowl. Pour the yoghurt mixture into an ice-cream machine and churn according to manufacturer’s instructions. (Alternatively, pour mixture into a shallow container and freeze for 2 hours or until frozen at edges. Remove and beat with electric beaters. Return to container and refreeze. Repeat 2 or 3 times.) Swirl through the rest of the fruit puree so you get a ripple effect. Pour the frozen yoghurt into a container and freeze for 3 hours. Place frozen yoghurt in the fridge 20 minutes before serving to allow it to soften to scooping consistency. d.

Cook’s Note * Coconut oil is extracted from the

Makes about 1L

*

2 cups (220g) chopped rhubarb 2 x 250g punnets strawberries, coarsely chopped 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 1/2 cup (180g) honey 2 cups (560g) Greek-style yoghurt

* *

kernel of matured coconuts. It’s available from health food shops and selected supermarkets. Ghee (clarified butter) is from supermarkets; substitute olive oil. Hulled millet is a gluten-free grain available from health food shops and selected supermarkets. Sriracha is a hot Thai chilli sauce available from Asian food shops; substitute sweet chilli sauce.

From top: Maria Laitinen of Scandi Home; chocolate & ricotta cups with walnut crust; David and Luise of Green Kitchen Stories; strawberry & rhubarb ripple frozen yoghurt.

do the char char

We grilled Colin Holt, chef and co-owner of Hudson Meats in Sydney and Melbourne, to find out how the experts throw the perfect summer barbecue.

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guest chef.

Slow-cooked oyster blade steak with tomato relish

slow-cooked oyster blade steak with tomato relish Serves 6-8 1 tbs smoked paprika (pimenton) 2 tbs brown sugar 1 tsp cayenne pepper 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 1.5kg oyster blade steak, trimmed 1/2 cup (125ml) red wine 1L (4 cups) beef stock Roast potatoes and watercress sprigs, to serve Tomato relish (125ml) tomato sauce (ketchup) 400g can chopped tomatoes 1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar 2 tbs white wine vinegar 2 tbs Worcestershire sauce Finely grated zest of 1/2 orange 1 tbs Tabasco sauce

Colin Holt of Hudson Meats. Opposite: skirt steak with chargrilled vegetables.

skirt steak with chargrilled vegetables Serves 4 6 echalots, finely chopped 300ml verjuice* (see Cook’s Notes, p 95) 1/4 cup (60ml) white wine vinegar 1 thyme sprig 1L (4 cups) veal stock* (see Cook’s Notes, p 95) or beef stock 1/2 cup (80g) sultanas 2 x 500g skirt steaks Olive oil, to brush Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve Chargrilled vegetables 4 zucchinis, sliced lengthways 2 red capsicums, sliced lengthways 1 red onion, cut into wedges Olive oil, to brush

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Combine the eschalot, verjuice, white wine vinegar and thyme in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Season with freshly ground black pepper, then cook, skimming any impurities from the surface, for 15-20 minutes until slightly reduced. Add the stock and cook for a further 15 minutes or until thickened and reduced by half. Add sultanas, then remove the pan from the heat. Keep warm. Meanwhile, preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan to medium-high. Brush steaks with oil and season. Chargrill, turning, for 8 minutes for medium-rare or until cooked to your liking. Rest, loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes. Brush vegetables with oil and season. Chargrill, turning, for 5 minutes or until charred and cooked through. Thinly slice steaks and serve with vegetables, parsley and eschalot sauce.

Preheat the oven to 130°C and preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan to high. Combine paprika, sugar, cayenne pepper and oil in a bowl. Season, then add oyster blade steak and turn to coat. Chargrill, turning, for 6-7 minutes until charred and browned. Transfer to a roasting pan over medium heat. Add the wine and stock. Bring to a simmer, then cover with baking paper and foil. Roast, turning after 2 hours, for 4 hours or until tender. Remove from pan and rest, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes. For the tomato relish, place all the ingredients and 1/2 cup (125ml) cooking liquid from the meat in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to the boil and cook, stirring, for 10 minutes or until reduced and thickened. Slice steak and serve with roast potatoes, watercress and tomato relish.

ReCiPeS COlin HOlT LoCATion PhoTogRAPhy Paul RaeSide/livingeTC/iPC + SyndiCaTiOn PoRTRAiT & Food PhoTogRAPhy vaneSSa leviS STyLing BeRni SMiTHieS

1/2 cup

guest chef.

guest chef.

“lamb is a rich meat, so a little lemon zest or juice helps balance out the favours.”

Barbecued lamb racks

barbecued lamb racks Serves 4 You will need a lidded barbecue for this recipe. 2 tbs truffle oil* (see Cook’s Notes) 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped 1 cup (250ml) olive oil, plus extra to brush 1 tbs sweet paprika Finely grated zest of 2 lemons, plus wedges to serve 4 x 375g forequarter lamb racks* (see Cook’s Notes), trimmed 1 bunch asparagus 250g punnet vine-ripened cherry tomatoes To make the marinade, combine truffle oil, parsley, olive oil, paprika and lemon zest in a bowl. Season lamb, then add and turn to coat. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight to marinate. Preheat a barbecue (with a lid) or chargrill pan to medium heat. Drain lamb, then grill, with the lid closed, turning, for 20 minutes for medium or until cooked to your liking. Remove and rest, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes. Brush asparagus and tomatoes with oil, season, then grill over medium heat for 4 minutes or until slightly charred. Slice lamb racks, then serve with asparagus, tomatoes and lemon wedges.

toulouse sausages with frisee salad Serves 4-6 You will need 4 long metal skewers for this recipe. 2 x 500g spiral Toulouse sausages* (see Cook’s Notes) Olive oil, to brush 1 frisee (curly endive), roughly torn 1/2 bunch spring onions, thinly sliced on an angle 2 soft-boiled eggs, halved Chargrilled sourdough, to serve

Toulouse sausages with frisee salad

Mustard vinaigrette 1 tbs wholegrain Dijon mustard 1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil 1 tbs verjuice* (see Cook’s Notes) or white wine vinegar 1 garlic clove, crushed Preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan to medium-high heat. Using 2 metal skewers for each sausage spiral, spear them on the diagonal to hold them in place. Brush with oil, then cook for 5 minutes each side or until charred and cooked through. For the vinaigrette, whisk all ingredients with 1 tbs warm water in a bowl. Season to taste and set aside. Place the frisee and spring onion in a bowl, then toss to combine. Top with egg and drizzle over the vinaigrette. Serve sausages with frisee salad and chargrilled sourdough.

Cook’s Note * Verjuice (unripe grape juice, used

*

* *

in similar ways to lemon juice or vinegar), veal stock (substitute beef stock) and trufe oil (substitute extra virgin olive oil) are all available from gourmet food shops and delis. Toulouse sausages are available from selected butchers, or ask your butcher to unlink sausages and form a coil; substitute pork sausages. Forequarter lamb racks are available from butchers; substitute French-trimmed lamb racks. Spatchcocks are young chickens, available from selected butchers and specialty poultry shops. To butterfly spatchcocks, cut out backbones using poultry scissors, then flatten birds with the palm of your hand. Or ask your butcher to butterfly them. delicious. 95

guest chef.

“try a variety of beef cuts, such as brisket, skirt and oyster blade steak, for different textures and favours.” spatchcock with tarragon & garlic butter Serves 4 You will need a lidded barbecue and 8 long metal skewers for this recipe. 3 garlic cloves, crushed 250g softened unsalted butter 1 bunch tarragon, leaves chopped Juice of 1 lemon 4 x 500g spatchcocks, butterflied* (see Cook’s Notes, p 95) Olive oil, to brush Green bean, olive and fennel salad (recipe follows), to serve Combine the garlic and butter in a small food processor and whiz to a paste. Add the tarragon and lemon juice, then season and pulse a few times to combine. Carefully run your hand under the skin of the spatchcock breast and thighs to separate the skin from the flesh, being careful not to tear the skin. Rub the tarragon and garlic butter into the breast and thigh meat, under the skin. Using 2 skewers for each spatchcock, spear each bird on the diagonal from the wing to the opposite thigh, to ensure the birds hold their shape during cooking. Rub any leftover butter over the spatchcock skin. Preheat a barbecue (with a lid) to medium-high heat. Brush each spatchcock with olive oil and place, skin-side down, on the grill. Barbecue for 5 minutes or until the skin is golden. Turn, being careful not to break the skin, then

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reduce the heat to medium. Close lid and cook for a further 20 minutes or until cooked through. (To test if spatchcocks are cooked through, the juices should run clear when the thickest part of the thigh is pierced with a skewer.) Remove from the heat and rest, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes. Remove skewers from spatchcocks then serve with the green bean, olive and fennel salad.

green bean, olive & fennel salad Serves 4 as a side 500g green beans, trimmed 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 tbs red wine vinegar 1 packet flatbread crisps (we used Lavosh crackers) 1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced (using a mandoline) 200g Ligurian olives or other small black olives 1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked Cook the beans in a saucepan of boiling salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and refresh in a bowl of iced water. Whisk the olive oil and vinegar together in a bowl. Season, then set aside. Break the flatbread into small pieces, then combine in a bowl with the fennel, olives, parsley and drained beans. Drizzle dressing over the salad, then gently toss to combine. Serve salad with the spatchcocks. d.

Colin’s barbeCue tips The chef of Sydney’s former 2-hatted Bistro Pave, co-owner of Hudson Meats (visit: hudsonmeats. com.au) – now with stores in Sydney and Melbourne – and delicious. Produce Awards expert panellist shares his barbecue tips. * Generally try to barbecue on medium-high heat, around 190°C. too low a temperature and the meat will stew, too high, and it will burn. always allow the barbecue to preheat before using. * bring meat to room temperature before cooking, this allows the meat to cook evenly. * Don’t play with your meat! turning meat constantly means that you are taking it on and off the heat and leads to an uneven cook. i turn my steak no more than three times. * Don’t be tempted to cut into steak to check if it’s done, as you will lose precious juices that make the meat tender when resting. instead, press the centre of the steak; it should spring back for medium-rare. * rest cooked meat, as this allows the muscle fibres to relax and the meat to maintain moisture and flavour. rest prime cuts, such as t-bone, sirloin and scotch fillet, for 10 minutes. larger cuts need a longer resting time. rest meat in a warm spot on the side of the barbecue or in a low oven.

Spatchcock with tarragon & garlic butter; green bean, olive & fennel salad.

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Jamie’s outdoor cooking special and Fresh asian-inspired salads

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ROASTED FRUIT

fun i the ovn If you have an outdoor woodfired oven, it's time to think beyond pizzas! To get you started, Jamie shares some brilliant ideas for feasts cooked alfresco that you can also make in a regular oven.

Recipes Jamie Oliver

Styling Ginny Rolfe

Photography David Loftus

jamie’s diary

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W

oodfired ovens have become fashionable, but you may wonder what it is about them that’s so enticing? Tat’s easy – first up, they look amazing. Secondly, there’s something hypnotising about watching the open flames, with whatever you’re cooking ticking away in the background. Tey also have a really dry heat, so you get an incredible rendering of fat and crisping of skin on meat that’s hard to recreate elsewhere. And lastly, you get that subtle, invisible seasoning from the wood that you’re burning and, of course, the smoke. When you think about it, it was only 60-odd years ago when the whole scenario of a modern oven became available. For thousands of years, us humans have cooked over fire in one way, shape or form;

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I’m sure that’s why people are often mesmerised by fires, or get excited and light a barbecue as soon as the sun comes out. It’s a primal instinct. Here are my tips for creating the perfect woodfired oven. Start your fire early and wait for flames to die down and hot coals to form before you start cooking. Regulate the heat by having a small fire burning to keep the coals glowing, as these are your main heat source in the oven. Larger pieces of wood will result in larger coals to maintain even heat, but don't feed the fire too much as the temperature of the oven can soar. Invest in some heatproof tools, such as pizza shovels or pan hooks long enough to reach into the oven. Be careful when reaching for items and keep your eye on the food inside. It takes some time to get going, but the result is worth the wait.

Roasted gRapes with cheese

Serves 8 as a starter • 1kg black grapes (on the vine) • 1 tbs caster sugar • 2-3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked • Extra virgin olive oil • Splash of red wine vinegar • 75g creme fraiche or sour cream • 50g cheddar, roughly chopped • 250g camembert or brie • 1 bunch sage, leaves picked • Fresh bread and walnuts, to serve 1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly 220°C (check your thermometer) and the smoke and flames have died down, start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat your regular oven to 220°C.) 2 Place the grapes in a large roasting pan, sprinkle with sugar and thyme, and drizzle with oil and vinegar. Roast for 5–10 minutes, keeping

an eye on them and turning when necessary, until the grapes are just starting to catch and burst open. 3 Remove the tray from the oven and spoon over dollops of creme fraiche, scatter over the cheddar chunks, then tear up the camembert and nestle the pieces among the grapes. 4 Drizzle the sage leaves with olive oil and scatter over the top. Return the dish to the oven for 5 minutes or until the cheese just starts to melt. 5 Serve in the middle of the table with bread and a bowl of walnuts.

Grilled cucumberS WiTH almond cream

Serves 4–6 as a side • 3 telegraph or 8 Lebanese cucumbers • Olive oil • 1 heaped tsp cumin seeds • 4 spring onions • ½ small bunch flat-leaf parsley • ½ small bunch mint • 1 lemon Almond cream • ⅓ cup (55g) blanched almonds • 400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained • 2 tsp tahini • ½ tsp honey • Seeds of 1 vanilla pod • Milk, to loosen 1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly 220°C (check your thermometer) and the smoke and flames have died down, start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat your regular oven to 220°C.) 2 Gently bash cucumbers with a rolling pin so they split slightly, then pop in a roasting pan, drizzle with oil and season. Roast for 15 minutes or until starting to char, adding the cumin seeds to the pan for the final 3 minutes. 3 Tip the contents of the roasting pan onto a board and roughly chop the cucumbers into different-sized chunks. Finely slice the spring onions, parsley and mint. Add everything to a bowl and dress with a squeeze of lemon juice. 4 For the almond cream, whiz nuts in a food processor with chickpeas, tahini, honey and vanilla seeds until smooth. Add a splash of milk to loosen, if needed. 5 To serve, spoon the almond cream onto a serving plate, top with the cucumber mixture and drizzle with the lemon dressing from the bowl.

ROAStED GRAPES wIth ChEESE

GRILLED CUCUMBERS wIth ALMOND CREAM

EGGPLANT AL FORNO. OPPOsiTE: bAkEd-bLAckbERRy bELLiNi.

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CAPTAIN CAVEMAN CHOPS

Baked-BlackBerry Bellini Makes 6 • 200g blackberries • 2 tbs caster sugar • 750ml bottle prosecco or Champagne

1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly 200°C (check with your thermometer) and the smoke and flames have died down, start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat your regular oven to 200°C.) 2 Tip blackberries into a snug-fitting roasting dish and scatter over the sugar. Roast for 10 minutes or until the berries start to soften and burst. Remove from oven and leave to cool. 3 Whiz the roasted blackberries in a blender or squash them with a fork until smooth, then pass through a sieve. Pop in the fridge until chilled. 4 Evenly distribute the chilled fruit puree among 6 Champagne glasses and top up with your favourite bubbles.

eggplant al forno

This Sicilian-inspired dish is a lovely alternative to cheesy parmigiana. Serves 4 as a side • 3 eggplants, cut into 1cm slices • Extra virgin olive oil • ½ tsp ground cinnamon, plus an extra pinch • 4 spring onions, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced • Handful vine-ripened cherry tomatoes • Red wine vinegar, to drizzle • ⅔ cup (50g) fresh breadcrumbs • ⅓ cup (50g) pine nuts • 2 tbs raisins 1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly 220°C (check your thermometer) and the smoke and flames have died down, start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat your regular oven to 220°C.) 2 Place the eggplant slices in a baking dish. Brush lightly with oil, then sprinkle over the cinnamon and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 15–20 minutes, adding the spring onion, garlic and cherry tomato after 10 minutes.

Once the eggplant and tomatoes have all softened and charred, add a splash of vinegar to the pan. 3 In a bowl combine the breadcrumbs, pine nuts, raisins, a pinch of cinnamon and a drizzle of oil, then season well. Sprinkle over the aubergine mixture and cook for a further 5–10 minutes until crispy and golden, then serve.

captain caveMan chops

Serves 4-6 • 12 x 100g lamb cutlets (not French-trimmed) with long bones • Olive oil, to drizzle • ⅓ cup (55g) pitted prunes • ¼ cup (55g) dried apricots • ¼ cup (60ml) red wine vinegar • 2-3 mint sprigs Gremolata • Small bunch flat-leaf parsley • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon • Finely grated zest of 1 orange • 1 small garlic clove • 250g cracked wheat (burghul) 1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly 220°C (check your thermometer) and the smoke and flames have died down, start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat your regular oven to 220°C.) Preheat a large roasting pan. 2 Using a sharp knife, carefully score crosses into the fat of the cutlets, then season and drizzle with oil. Transfer the lamb to your preheated roasting pan and cook for 10–15 minutes until golden and cooked. Transfer to a plate and rest, covered with foil, for 5 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, place the prunes and apricots on an oven tray and roast for 5 minutes or until softened. Add to a bowl with the vinegar and leave to soak for 5 minutes to plump up. 4 Whiz the soaked fruit with the mint in a blender, adding a splash of water to loosen, if needed. Set aside. 5 For the gremolata, finely chop the parsley on a board along with the citrus zests and garlic. Set aside. 6 Cook the cracked wheat according to packet instructions. Dress with a little olive oil and the juice of 1 lemon. 7 Pile the cracked wheat onto a large serving platter, then stack the chops

on top. Scatter over the gremolata and serve with the prune and apricot sauce to drizzle over.

roasted fruit

Serve this as it is with ice cream, or turn it into a crumble. Serves 8 • 1kg stone fruit (such as plums, peaches, apricots and nectarines), halved, stones removed • 2 pears • 2 apples • 200g frozen blackberries • Splash of brandy (optional) • ¼ cup (55g) caster sugar • 1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked • 1 vanilla pod, split, seeds scraped • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon • 2 bay leaves • Vanilla ice cream, to serve Crumble topping (optional) • 120g plain flour • 60g chilled unsalted butter • ⅓ cup (50g) hazelnuts, chopped • 2 tbs raw sugar • Handful of oats 1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly 200°C (check your thermometer) and the smoke and flames have died down, start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat your regular oven to 200°C.) 2 Place the stone fruit, pears and apples in a shallow roasting pan with berries. Drizzle over brandy, if using, and sprinkle over sugar, rosemary and vanilla seeds. Scatter over citrus zest and squeeze over the juice, then add the bay leaves. 3 Toss to coat, then spread everything out into an even layer. Roast for 5 minutes (or 20–25 minutes in a regular oven), until the fruit is soft but still keeps its shape. 4 If you’re making the crumble topping, rub the flour and butter together in a bowl until it resembles breadcrumbs. Mix in the nuts, sugar and oats, then sprinkle over the fruit. Bake for 5 minutes (10–15 minutes in a regular oven), until golden. 5 Serve the fruit crumble with scoops of ice cream.

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Recipes Joss Herd

Photography Jonathan Gregson

VIETNAMESE cHArGrIllEd EGGplANT SAlAd (rEcIpE p 114)

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It

MIX

JAPANESE GRILLED SALMON & SEAWEED SALAD (REcIPE P 1144

Now is the time for light, bright and super-fresh salads – cue these gorgeous Asian-inspired recipes, from Japanese salmon and seaweed salad to golden Vietnamese chicken with mint.

Vietnamese chicken saLaD (Goi Ga)

This chicken and cabbage salad is a Vietnamese classic. Allow as much time as you can to marinate your chicken for maximum flavour. Serves 4 • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 1 tbs fish sauce • 1½ tsp caster sugar • 4 chicken thigh fillets, cut into 2cm pieces • 2 red (Asian) eschalots • 2 cups (500ml) peanut oil • Small cube of bread (to test the oil) • 1 tbs honey Dressing • 1 tbs fish sauce • 2 tbs rice vinegar • 1 tbs caster sugar • 1-2 small red chillies, finely chopped • 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped • Juice of 1-2 limes Salad • 1 tbs jasmine rice • 200g white cabbage, shredded • 2 large carrots, shredded • 10 shiso leaves* • Handful mint leaves 1 Place the garlic, fish sauce and sugar rojAk wiTH PrAwnS

Rojak with pRawns

Hot, salty, sour and sweet, this Malaysian/Singaporean salad packs a real punch. To make this work for vegetarians, simply replace the prawns with crispy fried tofu and omit the shrimp paste. Serves 2 • 1 tbs sesame seeds • ¼ cup (35g) roasted salted peanuts • 1 green apple, thinly sliced • 1 small firm mango, thinly sliced • ¼ pineapple, sliced into wedges • ½ cucumber, peeled, seeds removed, thinly sliced • 6 thin baguette slices, toasted • Juice of 2 limes • 150g cooked, peeled prawns, halved Dressing • 3 tbs grated palm sugar* or brown sugar • ¼ cup (60ml) kecap manis* • 2 tbs sambal oelek*

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• 2 tbs tamarind paste • ½ tsp shrimp paste* 1 For the dressing, place all ingredients

in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. 2 Toast the sesame seeds in a small, dry frypan over low heat for 3–5 minutes until golden. Add to a mortar and pestle with the peanuts and pound until coarse. Set aside. 3 Add the apple, mango, pineapple, cucumber and baguette to a large bowl and squeeze over the limes. Add the prawns and dressing, then toss to coat. 4 Divide between 2 serving dishes and scatter with the peanut topping. Serve immediately. *Kecap manis (sweet Indonesian soy sauce), sambal oelek (Malaysian chilli paste) and shrimp paste are all available from Asian food shops.

in a bowl and stir to combine. Add the chicken and marinate for at least 1 hour. 2 Thinly slice the eschalot and rinse under cold water, then pat with paper towel. Set aside to dry. 3 Meanwhile, heat oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Drop in a cube of bread, if it browns in 10 seconds, the oil is hot enough. Carefully lower eschalot into oil, in batches, and fry for 2 minutes or until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. 4 For the dressing, place the fish sauce, rice vinegar and sugar in a small pan over medium heat, bring to a simmer and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Add chilli, garlic and lime juice, then transfer to a bowl to cool. 5 Stir-fry the chicken in a dry wok over medium-high heat, tossing, until cooked and golden. Transfer to a bowl, drizzle with honey and keep warm. 6 Toast the rice for the salad in a dry frypan over medium heat until golden, then grind to a coarse powder in a mortar and pestle. 7 Toss the remaining salad ingredients in a bowl with the dressing, top with the chicken and toss gently. Add the ground

vietnamese CHiCKen saLaD (goi ga)

prawn & nOODLE SaLaD wITH SwEET CHILLI SaUCE

toasted rice and toss gently again. Serve immediately, topped with the crispy eschalot. *Shiso, also known as Japanese basil, looks like a large nettle leaf. It’s related to mint and has a pungent, grassy flavour. You should be able to find it at your local Asian grocer but if not, substitute with mint leaves.

Prawn & noodle salad with sweet chilli sauce

This recipe uses rice noodles in stick form, which just need to be soaked briefly, but you can use any type of rice noodles you like. The balance of sweet mango, creamy avocado and spicy chilli makes this a brilliantly fresh, pick-me-up dish. Serves 2 • 100g packet 3mm rice stick noodles • 1 small mango, chopped • 1 avocado, chopped • 100g cooked, peeled prawns or shrimps • 1 bunch coriander cress* or coriander, leaves picked Sweet chilli sauce • 50g caster sugar • 50ml rice wine vinegar • 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced • 2–3 long red chillies, seeds removed, finely chopped • 1-2 small red chillies, seeds removed, finely chopped 1 For the sweet chilli sauce, pour the

sugar, vinegar and ⅓ cup (80ml) water into a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves, then add the garlic and chilli. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the sauce is reduced and syrupy. Set aside to cool completely. 2 Soak the noodles according to the packet instructions. Drain thoroughly and toss in ¼ cup (75g) cooled sweet chilli sauce, adding a little extra to coat all the noodles, if necessary. 3 Add the mango, avocado and prawns to the noodles and toss gently to combine, then add the coriander. Serve immediately. *Coriander cress is a micro herb with a strong citrus and pepper flavour, available from selected greengrocers and farmers' markets.

CriSPy bASil SAlAd wiTh Pork & PiCkled CArroTS

crisPy basil salad with Pork & Pickled carrots

A fusion of Thai and Chinese, this salad is packed with great zingy flavours. To save time, make the pickled carrots in advance and refrigerate until needed. Serves 2 • 2 cups (500ml) peanut oil • 300g pork mince • Pinch ground white or black pepper • 3 spring onions, finely chopped, reserving one to serve • 1 tbs red Thai curry paste • 300ml chicken stock • Small cube of bread (to test the oil) • 1 bunch holy basil*, leaves picked • 1 iceberg lettuce, leaves separated Pickled carrots • 200ml rice vinegar • 100g caster sugar • 1 tsp fennel seeds

• 1 star anise • 2 carrots, thinly sliced (using a mandoline) 1 To make the pickled carrots, add the

rice vinegar to a saucepan over a medium heat with the sugar, fennel seeds, star anise and 1 tsp sea salt. Bring to a simmer and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, tip in the carrots and stir to coat. Leave to cool completely, then pickle for at least 30 minutes. 2 Heat 1 tbs peanut oil in a wok until smoking hot. Add the pork, season with the white pepper and a pinch of salt, then stir-fry until golden and starting to crisp. 3 Add 2 chopped spring onions and the red Thai curry paste, and cook for a further 1 minute. Pour in the stock, and reduce the heat, then cook for a further 20 minutes or until the stock

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has evaporated and the pork is tender, cooked and starting to crisp up again. 4 heat the remaining peanut oil in a separate saucepan. Add the cube of bread, if it browns in 10 seconds, your oil is hot enough to start frying. In batches, fry the basil leaves for 3 seconds or until they’re translucent and crisp (careful of the hot oil, as it may spit). Remove the crispy leaves with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. 5 To serve, place the lettuce leaves on a serving plate, scatter over the pork, pickled carrots, reserved spring onion and the crispy basil leaves. Drizzle with a little of the carrot pickling liquid and serve immediately. *Holy basil is a spicy herb similar to both mint and basil, it's available from Asian and selected grocers; substitute regular basil.

Japanese grilled salmon & seaweed salad

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The magic ingredient in this dish is togarashi seasoning, a mix of chilli, orange peel, ginger, sesame seeds, Szechuan pepper and seaweed. It adds ‘wow’ factor to salmon. Serves 4 • 500g skinless salmon fillet, pin-boned • 2 tbs soy sauce • 2 tbs honey • 1 tbs togarashi seasoning* • Juice of 1 lime • 1 tbs black sesame seeds* • 20g dried seaweed salad (wakame)*, shredded • 4 spring onions, shredded • 1 cos lettuce, roughly torn Dressing • Finely grated zest of 2 limes, plus juice of 1 lime • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange • 3cm piece ginger, grated • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 1 tbs soy sauce • 1 tbs sesame oil 1 Preheat the grill to high and line

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a shallow baking dish with foil. Place the salmon, skin-side down, in the dish, spoon over the soy and honey, and sprinkle with togarashi seasoning. 2 Grill for 15–18 minutes until dark, sticky and the salmon flakes easily

when tested. Remove from the grill, squeeze over the lime and set aside. 3 In a small dry frypan, fry the sesame seeds over a medium heat until just toasted, then set aside. 4 Place the dressing ingredients in a bowl and whisk until combined. Add the seaweed and spring onion and toss to coat, then do the same with the lettuce. Divide between plates, top with the flaked salmon and sesame seeds. *Togarashi seasoning, black sesame seeds and wakame are available from Asian food shops.

Vietnamese chargrilled eggplant salad

Tamarind cuts beautifully through the melt-in-your-mouth charred eggplant. Serves 2 • 1 tbs jasmine rice • 2 small eggplants, sliced into 3mm-thick rounds • 1 tbs peanut oil • 3 spring onions, thinly sliced • 75g beansprouts • 1 long red chilli, finely sliced • Handful mint leaves • 30g punnet micro garlic chives (optional) • 1 tbs roasted salted peanuts, chopped Dressing • 1 tbs fish sauce • 1 tsp tamarind paste • 1 tsp grated palm sugar or brown sugar 1 For the dressing, heat fish sauce,

tamarind and sugar in a small pan over medium heat, stirring, for 3–5 minutes until sugar has dissolved. Cool. 2 Toast the rice in a dry frypan over medium heat, shaking occasionally, for 8–10 minutes until golden and crisp. Using a mortar and pestle, grind it to a coarse powder, then set aside. 3 Heat a chargrill pan over high heat, brush the eggplant slices with oil and chargrill for 6 minutes, turning, until tender and charred. 4 Divide the eggplant between 2 plates, scatter over the spring onion, beansprouts, chilli, mint and micro garlic chives, if using, then drizzle generously with dressing. Finish with a scattering of the chopped peanuts and the toasted rice powder.

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Cgandcherry.com What was the hardest part of trying to conceive? And the best? When I didn’t conceive in the frst month we tried I cried and moaned that it was probably because I was “too old”, but I was only 29 at the time. My poor husband had to put up with that kind of melodrama ofen in those days. I was convinced that losing weight would increase our fertility. We weren’t big fatties to start with, but we had just spent 6 months travelling (read: eating) all over Europe, Africa and Asia, and had piled on a bit of weight. As the main cook in our house I promptly overhauled our meals, banned alcohol and strongly encouraged daily exercise. Yes, I was bossy, but hubby was 100% on board. For the record though, I have really mellowed since then, and was not nearly as strict with hubby the second time around! The second month we tried to conceive, we had success. Hubby, understandably, felt very stud-like. I was also much more relaxed. I knew when I was ovulating so we timed the attempts, but we didn’t stress too much about the result. It was more about enjoying ourselves.

It’s rIdIculously easy to eat well in summer, especially when it comes to dessert. Put out a plate of ripe peaches and a handful of juicy strawberries, and you’re done. Chop a few diferent coloured melons for a cooling salad, or stock the freezer with sweet summer sorbets to cool down a crowd. My natural instinct with fruit is to keep things very simple and light, and not load it up with heaps of desserty-things. On the other hand, a little chocolate jelly, however, or a vanilla-yoghurt cream? Yes, please. Whether it’s whisking up an instant gluten-free banana soufe, building a yoghurt and berry trifle around flourless chocolate cake, or having ready-made sorbets in the freezer, a little bit of what you fancy does you good.

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Recipes Jill dupleix photogRaphy ben dearnley styling vicki valsamis nutRitional analysis kate skinner

With the excess of the holiday season behind us, Jill takes a look at the lighter side of cool summer desserts.

jill’s fab four.

Low in fat Yoghurt & BerrY gelato terrine This tangy gelato terrine is perfect for stress-free entertaining – just slice and serve on a hot summer’s day.

jill’s fab four.

Gluten-free banana & lime souffle with toasted coconut These easy souffles rise miraculously and taste like a banana milkshake.

3 Low-kilojoule dark chocolate jellies with caramel popcorn Top these silky chocolate jellies with the sweet crunch of caramel popcorn.

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4 High in protein cake & berry trifle This combination of flourless chocolate cake, dreamy vanilla yoghurt and tangy berries proves that trifles don’t have to be heavy.

jill’s fab four. yoghurt & berry gelato terrine

banana & lime soufe with toasted coconut

Serves 8

Serves 4

1/2

cup (110g) caster sugar 500g thick Greek-style yoghurt 1 cup (150g) pure icing sugar, plus 2 tbs extra

1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp rosewater 3 x 125g punnets raspberries, plus extra to serve Mint leaves, to serve

2 tsp unsalted butter, melted 1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar, plus 2 tsp extra 1 banana 1 tbs lime juice 1 tbs dark rum (optional)

3 eggwhites (at room temperature) 2 tbs shredded coconut, toasted, plus extra to serve Pure icing sugar, to dust

To make sugar syrup, combine caster sugar and 2 cups (500ml) water in a saucepan over high heat. Bring to the boil, then cook, for 3 minutes or until sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool. Whisk yoghurt, icing sugar, vanilla and 200ml cooled sugar syrup together. Transfer to a container and freeze, stirring every 1 hour, for 3 hours. Spoon half into a 1.25L terrine lined with plastic wrap and freeze. Chill remaining yoghurt gelato in the fridge. Meanwhile, whiz rosewater, 250g berries and remaining 300ml sugar syrup in a food processor until smooth. Strain, then transfer to a container and freeze, stirring every 1 hour, for 3 hours. Spoon berry gelato into terrine and freeze for 2 hours. Top with reserved yoghurt gelato. Cover and freeze for 4 hours. Blend remaining 125g berries and 2 tbs icing sugar until smooth. Strain. Uncover terrine and invert onto a plate, remove plastic wrap and slice, then serve with berry puree, mint and extra raspberries. Per serve: 866kJ (207 cal), fat 1.6g (saturated 0.9g), protein 6.8g, carb 42.6g, fibre 3.0g, chol 3mg, sodium 21mg.

Preheat the oven to 190°C. Brush four 1/2 cup (125ml) ramekins with melted butter, then coat with the extra 2 tsp caster sugar, shaking off any excess. Place ramekins on a baking tray. Whiz the banana, lime juice, and rum, if using, in a food processor until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside. Whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in caster sugar until stiff and glossy. Gently fold the meringue mixture into the banana mixture. Divide among ramekins, then run your finger around the inside edge (this will help the souffles rise as they cook). Scatter with coconut, then bake, on the centre shelf of the oven, for 12 minutes or until golden and risen. Dust the souffles with icing sugar and top with extra toasted coconut, then serve. Per serve: 720kJ (172 cal), fat 3.0g (saturated 2.0g), protein 3.4g, carb 32.9g, fibre 1.6g, chol 5mg, sodium 56mg.

dark chocolate jellies with caramel popcorn

flourless chocolate cake & berry trifle

Serves 4

Serves 4

1/3

cup (75g) caster sugar 100g dark chocolate, chopped 1 tbs instant coffee, diluted in 2 tbs hot water

3 titanium-strength gelatine leaves* Store-bought caramel popcorn, to serve

Place sugar and 11/2 cups (375ml) water in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, then add chocolate and coffee, stirring until melted and smooth. Meanwhile, soak gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 minutes to soften. Squeeze excess water from gelatine, then stir into the chocolate mixture, whisking until combined. Chill, stirring every half hour, for 11/2 hours or until slightly thickened, then stir mixture until smooth. Divide among four 1/2 cup (125ml) jelly moulds then cover and chill for at least 6 hours or until set. To serve, dip the base of each jelly mould briefly in hot water and turn out onto serving plates. Serve with caramel popcorn.

* Gelatine leaves (check the packet for setting instructions) are from delis and gourmet food shops. Per serve: 908kJ (217 cal), fat 7.4g (saturated 5.2g), protein 6.1g, carb 33.6g, fibre 0.8g, chol 6mg, sodium 20mg.

100g dark chocolate, melted 1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar 75g unsalted butter, melted 1/2 cup (60g) almond meal 11/2 tsp vanilla extract 3 eggs, separated

2 tbs pure icing sugar 200g strawberries, halved 200g low-fat yoghurt 100g ricotta 125g punnet blueberries

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line a 20cm springform cake pan. Combine chocolate, caster sugar and butter in a bowl. Add almond and 1/2 tsp vanilla, stirring to combine. Add egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until stiff peaks form, then gently fold through chocolate mixture. Pour into pan and bake for 25 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. Cool. Meanwhile, whiz icing sugar and half the strawberries in a food processor until smooth. In a separate bowl, whisk yoghurt, ricotta and remaining 1 tsp vanilla until smooth. Crumble cake and divide among 4 glasses. Top with vanilla yoghurt, coulis, blueberries and remaining 100g strawberries. d. Per serve: 2205kJ (527 cal), fat 36.0g (saturated 18.2g), protein 15.7g, carb 35.6g, fibre 4.1g, chol 180mg, sodium 180mg.

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• Asian hotspots in Sydney & Melbourne • Postcard from Fiji • A taste of Lake Como, Italy

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photography MarK roper words vallI lIttle

It may be George Clooney’s favourite holiday destination for its luxury villas, but if you explore a little deeper, Lake Como is also a foodie paradise. Valli joined two of Australia’s top Italian chefs, Alessandro Pavoni and Giovanni Pilu, for a weekend-long cooking class to discover regional Lombardy dishes.

recipes GIovannI pIlu & alessandro pavonI

Hidden depths

global favours.

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global favours. The GlisTeninG waTer, craggy peaks and verdant surrounds of Lake Como in the Lombardy region of Italy have lured tourists and celebrities looking for a secluded getaway for hundreds of years. Earlier this year, two of Australia’s top Italian chefs teamed up for a cooking adventure in their homeland organised by Sue Jenkins of Sydney’s Accoutrement. For Ormeggio at the Spit chef and owner Alessandro Pavoni, who grew up close by in Brescia, it was a chance to cook with flavours from his childhood. “Lemons, olives, good olive oil and freshwater seafood are the flavours I grew up with and the hero ingredients in many dishes from the region,” says Alessandro. For Sardinian-born Giovanni, who owns Pilu at Freshwater on Sydney’s northern beaches, the getaway provided the opportunity for some fresh inspiration. “There are vast diOerences in the reginal specialities around Italy. For example when it comes to cheese, in Sardinia we really only produce pecorino, whereas in Como we had access to a variety

of incredible cheese such as Taleggio and gorgonzola, which we incorporated into our menu,” says Giovanni. The luxe lodgings of Villa La Cassinella, perched on the waters’ edge, oOer panoramic views of the region and nearby town of Lenno. The plush styling and traditional furnishings were the launching pad for a weekend spent exploring the lake and towns of Bellagio and Varenna, stopping for tastings at local wineries and artisan food producers along the way. In the evenings, Giovanni and Alessandro led hands-on cooking classes and demonstrations back at the villa, before dinner on the lakeside terrace overlooking the tranquil water. “Alessandro and I love working together,” says Giovanni. “We have a lot of fun and there’s always a touch of healthy rivalry because he’s from the north and I’m from the south.” Thanks to Singapore Airlines for their assistance with this story. Singapore Airlines operate five flights a week from Australia to Milan. For bookings, tel: 131 011 or visit: singaporeair.com.

Clockwise (from far left): Giovanni and Alessandro on Lake Como; the lounge room at Villa La Cassinella; the villa is only accessible by boat; scallops with bottarga butter and pancetta; classic Italian style at the villa; baked fish with white wine and green olives (recipe p 132).

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global favours.

Terraces in the town of Lenno. Left: polenta with truffled mixed mushrooms. Opposite: the view of the lake from Villa La Cassinella.

slices and place one on top of each. Place in the oven for 30 seconds or until butter begins to melt. Immediately top each scallop with a slice of pancetta and serve.

polenta with trufed mixed mushrooms Serves 4

scallops with bottarga butter and pancetta Serves 4 50g bottarga* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134), finely grated 1/2 tsp chilli powder 200g softened unsalted butter 12 thin slices pancetta 12 scallops on half shell, roe removed Preheat the oven to 180ºC. To make the bottarga butter, combine bottarga, chilli powder and 150g butter. Place a large piece of plastic wrap on a workbench. Spoon butter along the centre of the plastic in a long strip and fold one

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end over to enclose the butter. Hold the sides of the plastic and roll into a neat log 2.5cm in diameter, then twist ends firmly to secure. Place in the fridge to chill. Arrange pancetta slices on a baking paper-lined baking tray. Place another tray of the same size on top to keep the slices flat. Roast for 8 minutes or until crisp and golden. Remove the scallops from their shells and season. Heat a non-stick frypan over medium-high heat. Add remaining 50g butter and, when sizzling, add scallops and cook for 1 minute on one side, then turn and cook for 30 seconds or until golden but still opaque in the middle. Return scallops to shells and place on a baking tray. Cut bottarga butter into thin

40g dried porcini mushrooms 11/2 cups (250g) instant polenta 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 200g mixed mushrooms, cut into small even-sized pieces 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped 75g gorgonzola piccante* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134) 50g parmesan, finely grated Truffle shavings or oil* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134) and rosemary sprigs, to serve Place porcini in a heatproof bowl and pour over 1 cup (250ml) boiling water. Soak for 10 minutes, then drain. Meanwhile, cook the polenta according to the packet instructions. Heat oil in a frypan over medium-high heat, add porcini, mixed mushroom and garlic, then cook for 5 minutes or until golden. Stir in parsley. Remove from heat. When the polenta is ready, stir in the gorgonzola and parmesan, then cook for a further 2 minutes or until melted. To serve, divide polenta among plates, top with mushrooms, truffle shavings or truffle oil and rosemary sprigs.

“lake como is home to incredible freshwater fsh and seafood.” tagliolini with sardines Serves 8 as a starter You’ll need a pasta machine for this recipe. 100ml extra virgin olive oil 50g unsalted butter 1 white onion, finely chopped 24 sardine fillets* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134), skin on, pin-boned 11/2 tbs dry white wine 1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves finely chopped Tagliolini pasta dough 300g ‘00’ flour* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134), plus extra to dust 3 eggs Lemon breadcrumbs 50g unsalted butter 1 cup (70g) fresh breadcrumbs 1 garlic clove, finely chopped Finely grated zest of 1 lemon For the pasta dough, sift the flour into a bowl. Add the eggs and use your hands to bring the mixture together into a firm dough. Tip onto a floured workbench and knead for 5 minutes or until smooth, dusting hands or the bench with a little more flour if it starts to stick. Enclose in plastic wrap and place in the fridge for 30 minutes to rest. Divide dough into 6 pieces and flatten 1 piece slightly into a neat rectangle. Cover the remaining pieces with a clean tea towel to prevent drying out. Starting on the thickest setting of your pasta machine, run the dough through a few times, folding it in half each time, until elastic. Keep rolling the dough through

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the settings, reducing the thickness each time, until 2mm thick. Cut the sheet into 3 equal lengths (about 25cm), dust with flour and feed through the flat pasta-cutting attachment on your machine to create tagliolini. Place tagliolini on a flour-dusted tray and repeat with remaining dough. For the lemon breadcrumbs, melt butter in a frypan over medium heat. Add crumbs and garlic, then stir until golden. Remove pan from heat, add lemon zest and a pinch of salt, then toss to combine. Set aside. Heat oil and butter in a frypan over low heat. Add onion and a pinch of salt, then cover and cook, stirring, for 15-20 minutes until very soft, but not coloured. Add sardines to the frypan, increase heat to high and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until sardines are almost dissolved. Add the wine and stir to combine. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a saucepan of boiling, salted water for 2 minutes or until tender, then drain. Toss pasta with sauce and parsley, then serve sprinkled with lemon breadcrumbs.

lamb with fregola & olive salad Serves 4 4 x 350g French-trimmed lamb racks 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil Flat-leaf parsley leaves and lemon wedges, to serve Fregola & olive salad 1 cup (200g) fregola* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134) 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 tbs good-quality red wine vinegar 20 (120g) Bosane olives* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134), pitted, finely chopped

1 rosemary sprig, leaves finely chopped 1 marjoram sprig, leaves picked 1 mint sprig, leaves finely chopped 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced Finely grated zest of 1 orange Remove lamb from fridge 1-2 hours before cooking. Cover and set aside to bring to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Season lamb generously with salt. Heat 1 tbs oil in a large ovenproof frypan over medium-high heat. Add 2 racks of lamb, skin-side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes each side or until well browned. Repeat with remaining 1 tbs oil and racks. Transfer the lamb racks to a baking paper-lined baking tray and roast for 15 minutes for medium or until cooked to your liking. Remove lamb from the oven, cover loosely with foil and set aside to rest for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, for the fregola and olive salad, bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil over high heat. Add the fregola and cook for 10 minutes or until al dente. Drain, then toss with 1 tbs oil. Spread out on a tray to cool. Combine the vinegar with the remaining 1/4 cup (60ml) oil, and season. Combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl, add the fregola and drizzle over the dressing, then toss to combine. Divide the fregola salad among 4 serving plates. Slice the lamb into cutlets and arrange on top of the fregola. Place the resting juices from the lamb in a frypan over high heat and bring to the boil. Drizzle over the meat and serve with parsley and lemon wedges on the side.

global favours.

Clockwise (from top left): villas on Lake Como; Giovanni and Alessandro; lamb with fregola & olive salad; mosaic in the villa gardens; tagliolini with sardines.

creamy, adding a little more hot stock if necessary. Transfer to a serving platter. Place the fish on top of the risotto. Spoon the remaining sage butter from the pan over the fish, then serve.

baked fish with white wine and green olives Serves 4 Alessandro and Giovanni used local lake fish for this recipe, but we have substituted rainbow trout.

perch with risotto and sage butter Serves 6 as a starter 1.5L (6 cups) fish stock 200g unsalted butter 2 cups (440g) carnaroli rice* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134) 100g finely grated parmesan 1/2 cup (75g) plain flour 500g silver perch fillets, pin-boned 16 sage leaves Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle Place stock in a large saucepan over high heat and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until needed. Melt 25g butter in a deep frypan over medium heat. Add rice and a pinch of salt,

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and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until well coated. Add stock, 1 ladle at a time, stirring and allowing each one to be absorbed before adding the next, until the rice is al dente (about 20 minutes). Remove risotto from heat, add cheese and 75g butter. Cover, without stirring, and set aside for butter and cheese to melt. Meanwhile, place flour on a plate and season. Cut fish into strips and dust in the flour, shaking off excess. Heat 50g butter in a frypan over medium heat. Add half the sage leaves and half the fish, then cook, turning, for 2-3 minutes until cooked through. Transfer to a plate and repeat with remaining 50g butter, sage and fish. Drizzle the risotto with oil and use a wooden spoon to beat the risotto until

4 x 300g whole rainbow trout, cleaned 1 spring onion, white part thinly sliced 2 rosemary sprigs, leaves finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 20 Bosane olives* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134), cheeks cut from the stone 4 fresh bay leaves 1 cup (250ml) dry white wine 2 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves Preheat oven to 180ºC. Score one side of each fish with four diagonal slits. Place fish on a baking paper-lined baking tray, scored-side up. Scatter the spring onion, rosemary, garlic and olive over the top and place a bay leaf on each fish. Pour over wine and sprinkle with parsley, salt and a generous amount of pepper. Bake, basting with the pan juices halfway, for 20 minutes or until just cooked. Transfer fish to a serving plate. Pour the cooking juices into a small saucepan and bring to the boil, then spoon over the fish to serve.

global favours.

Perch with risotto and sage butter. Opposite: the meandering gardens of Villa La Cassinella.

global favours.

Pears poached in red wine with ginger semifreddo. Right: alfresco dining at the villa.

pears poached in red wine with ginger semifreddo Serves 8 8 small pears, peeled (stems intact) 1L (4 cups) red wine 10 cloves 1 cinnamon quill Pared zest of 1 orange, cut into large strips, white pith removed 400g caster sugar Crushed amaretti biscuits, to serve Ginger semifreddo 6 egg yolks 150g caster sugar 2 tsp finely grated fresh ginger 200ml cream, whipped to soft peaks

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For the ginger semifreddo, using electric beaters, beat egg yolks until creamy. Place sugar and 150ml water in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 4 minutes or until slightly reduced. Slowly drizzle the hot sugar syrup into the egg, beating constantly. Continue beating for 7-8 minutes until mixture is cool, glossy, pale and tripled in volume. Fold the ginger through the whipped cream, then in batches, gently fold the ginger cream into the egg mixture until just incorporated. Pour into a 1.5L (6 cup) loaf pan or plastic container, then cover and freeze for at least 6 hours to set.

Arrange pears upright in a single layer, in a saucepan. Add wine, cloves, cinnamon, orange zest and sugar, and cover the surface closely with a piece of baking paper. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 25-30 minutes until pears soften but still hold their shape. Remove pears from pan, then return the poaching liquid to medium heat and boil for 30 minutes or until reduced to a syrupy consistency. Strain, discarding solids. Slice the pears in half through the stem and serve with scoops of semifreddo, then top with crushed amaretti and syrup. d.

Cook’s Note * Bottarga is a dried, cured mullet * * * * * * *

roe, available from delis and Asian food shops. Gorgonzola piccante is a piquante Italian blue cheese available from selected supermarkets and delis. Fresh truIes and truIe oil are available from gourmet food shops. Sardine fillets are available from fishmongers and the seafood counter at selected supermarkets. ‘00’ flour is a super-fine Italian flour grade, used to make pasta or bread. It’s from supermarkets and delis. Fregola is a small Sardinian pasta, from delis and Italian food shops. Carnaroli is a high-grade Italian risotto rice from delis. Bosane olives are large green olives from Bosa, Italy; substitute Sicilian green olives.

postcard.

Run to paradise A green speck in the South Pacific, Fiji’s private island Laucala is the ultimate luxury getaway. Peter Gilmore takes a break from the kitchen at his Sydney restaurant Quay to cook with fresh island produce.

“Fresh produce on Laucala island spans everything from plump vanilla beans to wild pumpkin and ginger.”

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coconut cream with vanilla granita, lychees and raspberries Serves 6 This recipe is inspired by the abundance of coconuts and tropical fruit on the island. I made a similar dessert for guests at the resort, using tree-ripened bananas and fresh mango. 100ml milk 100ml pure (thin) cream 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar 100g coconut milk powder 1/3 cup (80ml) double thick cream 24 fresh lychees, peeled, halved, seeds removed 125g punnet raspberries Vanilla granita 2 cups (500ml) sparkling white wine 13/4 cups (385g) caster sugar 2 vanilla beans, split, seeds removed For the vanilla granita, combine the wine, sugar, vanilla pod and seeds and 2 cups (500ml) water in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to the boil and whisk to combine. Strain the mixture through a sieve, allowing the vanilla seeds to pass through, then set aside to cool. Place the mixture in a shallow container and place in the freezer for 2 hours or until partially frozen. Remove the container from the freezer and break up the crystals by scraping the surface with a fork. Return to the freezer for 1 hour, then remove and scrape crystals again. Repeat twice. For the coconut cream, combine the milk, pure (thin) cream and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil. Place the coconut milk powder in a heatproof bowl, then pour over the hot milk mixture, whisking to combine. Chill until cool, then whisk with the double thick cream until soft peaks form. Spoon the coconut cream into serving glasses, then top with lychees, raspberries and vanilla granita. d.

LocAtion PhotoGrAPhy PETRINA TINSLAY Food PhotoGrAPhy ALAN BENSON StyLinG VIVIENNE wALSh

my first glimpse of Laucala island is from the private plane; a green speck of palm fronds surrounded by a thin frame of white sand rising from a turquoise lagoon. The island’s only resort consists of 25 luxury thatched villas spread out over 1400 hectares of tropical paradise, and by that I mean lush coconut groves, powder-white beaches and craggy clif tops with 360-degree views. I was lucky enough to be invited to Laucala Island Resort to prepare a dinner for guests with the resort chefs. The island is like no other I’ve been to, with ongoing eforts towards conservation and a sustainable approach to hospitality at the heart of its ethos. Almost all resources are produced on the island, from water and electricity to organic crops and livestock – it’s the ultimate chef’s playground. Fresh produce on the island spans everything from plump vanilla beans to wild pumpkin, ginger, cassava and all manner of herbs and greens. Tropical fruits are in abundance and, depending on the season, can include papaya, mango, banana, star fruit and lychee. The farm is also home to a herd of goats, sheep, Wagyu cattle and wild boar-hybrid pigs. There’s an apiary producing honey and a coconut press that extracts all the oil and milk needed for daily use in the kitchen and health spa. Using the bounty of island produce, I created a seven-course menu, and I can honestly say that the pressures of the Quay kitchen seemed a galaxy away, with the ocean breeze in my hair as I whipped around the island on a jet ski before service.

WHERE Laucala Island Resort, Fiji. WHEN There isn’t a bad time to go to Fiji, but the dry season (May to October) is milder and less humid. WHY A tropical foodie paradise oOering sandy beaches, turquoise lagoons, island-grown produce and plenty of activities, from water sports to horse riding. Must-do After a lazy breakfast overlooking the palm plantation, hit the water for kite-surfing, game fishing, jet-skiing and snorkelling; practise your swing on the 18-hole golf course; explore the island’s farms and crops; or unwind with a volcanic stone scrub at the spa. HoW Fly to Nadi International Airport, Fiji, then onto Laucala via a 40-minute flight in a private plane operated by the resort. Visit: laucala.com and lhw.com.

Clockwise from top left: Peter Gilmore with resort executive chef Martin Klein in the hydroponic herb garden; coconut cream with vanilla granita, lychees and raspberries; the view from the beach; Laucala Island Resort’s pool.

24 hours. including popular offal and pork dishes. Try authentic Restaurant Daniel & Denise (156 Rue de Créqui) for the meat and fish pies, foie gras and omelette de cure (omelette with cured meats).

2pm choc full Save room for dessert, as the laboratory and boutique of master chocolatier Sébastien Bouillet can’t be missed. choKola (3 Rue Austerlitz) has a wall of liquid chocolate to greet you, with an abundance of chocolate bars to takeaway.

3pm chill out Vieux Lyon (the Old City) is well worth a visit. Discover the many alleyways and winding streets originally used by the city’s famous silk merchants. If you have room, get another sweet fix at ice cream parlour terre adélice (1 Place de la Baleine). Their range of flavours is inventive and exotic – think lavender, foie gras, Roquefort or gingerbread, to name a few.

5pm put youR feet up Time to rest those weary limbs and unwind at Spa Saint-Jean (31 Rue de Boeuf). They offer a range of body therapies and scrubs perfect for soothing tired feet.

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Rise and shine When you're staying at hotel le Royal (20 Place Bellecour), you need to look no further than your own digs for the best breakfast in town. It's the training ground for students at L'Institut Paul Bocuse, who train under the watchful eyes of the masters as they cook for hotel guests.

off to maRket No visit to Lyon is complete without visiting the market les halles de paul Bocuse (102 Cours Lafayette), named after the famous Lyonnais chef. Guided tours are available, or explore on your own. Be sure to stop in at charcuterie Sibilia for sausages, including local cervelas, and la Mère Richard for cheese.

9am top shelf Explore the boutiques at Place Bellecour, including librairie in cuisine (1 Place Bellecour), a bookshop devoted entirely to gastronomy. Admire the range of cooking utensils, grab a coffee or sign up to a class.

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12pm dine like a local The city's famous bouchons are enjoying a renaissance. Neither a bistro nor a brasserie, these cheap and cheerful eateries are simple kitchens serving up local fare

dRink and be meRRy Bar Baragones (5 Place Saint-Paul) is a great spot to experience goneries (small snacks). Choose from the extensive wine list or enjoy an aperitif amongst the vintage decor.

8pm the last suppeR A short taxi ride will take you to the theatre district and la Bonâme de Bruno (5 Grande Rue Feuillants), where chef Bruno and his wife create inspired dishes. Try foie gras with pickled red cabbage, grilled squid and candied lemon, and mascarpone and mirabelle plum cheesecake to finish. Thanks to Lyon Tourist Office and Convention Bureau for assistance (visit: en.lyon-france.com).

illustration Stephanie weStcott

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Words valli little

It's said that if Paris is the heart of France, then Lyon is its stomach. Valli Little puts this theory to the test with a day of local specialties.

DISCOVER THE STORY BEHIND

OUR AUSTRALIAN RED GUM HONEY

ing for gold in In the 1880’s Benjamin Robinson was min ive eucalypt honey Victoria, when he discovered the area’s nat r generations later was an untapped source of liquid gold. Fou from family hives and Robinsons are still producing honey the bees feed on the in Beechworth. Ask them their secret -frin ging Australia’s blossoms of majestic native Red Gums lts. simple billabongs and rivers. They bottle the resu It’s as and natural as that.

Only at

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Coles FiNest AdVertisiNG FeAture

A fine vintage Nestled in the heart of Victorian dairy country in Gippsland comes a family-produced, award-winning vintage cheese for the Coles Finest range, using traditions handed down from old cheddar masters.

Left to right: the Holstein dairy cows; cheddar curd being mixed by hand; cloth wrapping the cheese; the fully matured cheddar; Sam Riggall and Ferial Zekiman.

a passion for tradition It’s 4am and Sam Riggall’s day starts with the sound of his herd of Holstein cows bellowing as they come into the milking sheds. With around 250 to milk and cheese to be made, it’s going to be a long day. But he loves it. Together with his mother, Ferial Zekiman, Sam runs Maffra Cheese Company, which has been producing vintage cheddar for almost 30 years. When Ferial first started making cheese, she looked to her grandmother in Cyprus, who made some of the island’s most famous goat cheeses, to pass down her passion and artisan traditions. With her grandmother’s help and the assistance of a couple of retired cheddar masters from the local Maffra region, she began to learn the techniques that make their cheese so special today. As a trained chemist, Ferial combined the traditional techniques with her innate science knowledge, and is now recognised as one of Australia’s most experienced and accomplished cheesemakers. "Making cheese using farmhouse traditions that are 90 years old means we can play with nuance, flavour and aroma. It's about producing something that's unique to our land," says Sam. masters of their craft Ferial and Sam are now producing their award-winning vintage cheddar with milk from their farm for the Coles Finest range. It’s the beautiful balance between the science of cheesemaking and the farmhouse traditions that make their cheese so unique. Importantly, these traditions mean that the milk in their cheddar comes only from their herd, and the cheddar itself is made completely by hand and matured until ready for selection on their farm. During the maturing process they constantly check on the cheeses to see that the flavour profile is developing. It's a hands-on process

“making cheese using farmhouse traditions that are 90-years old means we can play with nuance, favour and aroma.” driven by passion for their craft and the satisfaction of seeing a product they made. “We still mix the cheddar curd by hand every day in open vats; very few factories in the world do that,” says Sam. For Ferial and Sam it’s a true labour of love as they continually perfect their cheesemaking traditions with a deep understanding of the chemistry of the milk, flavours and aroma. “The seasons of the year, what we feed the cows and the type of cows themselves all make a huge difference to the cheese,” says Sam.

unearthing australia’s finest Coles Finest Gippsland Farmhouse Vintage Cheddar is made using traditional methods, wrapped in cloth and matured for up to 24 months. It’s available at Coles supermarkets nationally.

Lunar New Year

To kick off Chinese Year of the Horse, we asked some of Sydney and Melbourne’s top Asian chefs to name their favourite dining spots in their cities and to engage in a little friendly interstate rivalry.

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words Shannon harley, lara zilibowitz & heidi finnane photography mark roper & nigel lough

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1. Brothers Jason and Michael Lau. 2. Coda’s Hervey Bay scallops. 3. Late-night dining at Supper Inn. 4. Flower Drum. Previous page (clockwise from far left): Sydney’s Mr. Wong; Paddy’s Market; Coda’s crab, chilli & lime betel leaf; Melbourne’s Chinatown; Chow Bar & Eating House; The Century; tempura udon at Nama Nama; Emperor’s Garden butcher.

Jason & Michael lau While they’ve gained a following for their ma po tofu since opening Lau’s Family Kitchen (4 Acland St, St Kilda, (03) 8598 9880) seven years ago, brothers Jason and Michael have restaurant pedigree in their blood. “My father, Gilbert, opened Flower Drum (17 Market Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9662 3655) in 1975,” says Michael. And even though he sold the restaurant in 2003, it’s still where the Lau family head for special occasions. “It’s great for parties and has good food and service,” he says. “I love the Peking duck, I would go just for that.” For a quick bite that’s more traditional, the brothers head to Crystal Jade (154 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9639 2633), a Hong Kong-style eatery. “They do good barbecue pork, noodles, seafood and all the Chinese classics,” says Jason. One of their former waiters recently opened EC Kitchen (1 Sir John Monash Dr, Caulfield East, (03) 9571 7665), which has a casual student vibe. “It’s simple and cheap with a focus on noodle bowls,” says Jason, who recommends the wonton soup. I Love Pho (264 Victoria St, Richmond, (03) 9427 7749) is another favourite for noodles (Victor Liong, see opposite,

agrees). “The family who own it is well known and have a cult following,” says Michael. “It’s fast and fresh, and there’s always a line, but you only wait for about 15 minutes. I order the combination pho, and they also have really good chilli sauce,” says Jason. Also worth queuing for are the dumplings at Shanghai Street Dumpling (342 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9600 2250). “They have every kind of dumpling and bun you can imagine.” Victor is also a regular here, naming the pan-fried dumplings “the best in the city”. Stephen Lo, who has also worked with the Lau family, has recently taken over and reinvented Ants Bistro (7 Corrs Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9639 2908). “Stephen learnt a lot from our father and he’s taken on a lot of what we do, especially with his use of fresh produce to create good clean food. It’s a great hidden gem.” The brothers recommend Coda (141 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9650 3155) for a crowd because chef Adam D’Sylva’s French-Vietnamese menu of mostly small bites “ofers something diferent,” says Jason. “The signature dish – roasted yellow duck curry – is amazing.” Supper Inn (15 Celestial Ave, Melbourne, (03) 9663 4759) in Chinatown may be hard to find, but the brothers say it’s a Melbourne institution for late-night dining. “We go with a group after work and order the salt and pepper squab,” says Michael.

“Supper Inn is a Melbourne institution for late-night dining.”

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1. Nama Nama. 2. Chef Victor Liong. 3. Neil Perry’s Spice Temple at The Crown. 4. Japanese restaurant Izakaya Den. 5. Lee Ho Fook’s elegant raw ocean trout and jellyfish salad.

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Victor Liong

After working at Marque and Mr. Wong in Sydney, 28-year old Victor recently moved to Melbourne to open “new-style Chinese” diner Lee Ho Fook (92 Smith St, Collingwood, (03) 9077 6261). When he’s not busy in his own kitchen he’s exploring the best Asian eats in his new hometown. “I go to Izakaya Den (114 Russell St, Melbourne, (03) 9654 2977) at least once a month,” says Victor, whose go-to dishes include grilled ox tongue, stir-fried eel with water spinach and mushrooms, scallops with garlic soy butter, duck liver pâté with wonton skins and Japanese omelette with cod roe. For a taste of home, Victor – whose grandparents are Chinese and parents were born in Malaysia – heads to Mamak (366 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9670 3137). “The roti and thin curry gravies will always remind me of my childhood in Southeast Asia, the formica tables and the waiters wearing Crocs make it authentic. Get the teh tarik, a frothy milk-based tea, or Milo made with condensed milk.” Pacific Seafood BBQ House (210 Toorak Rd, South Yarra, (03) 9826 3838) oaers a huge variety of seafood and roasted meats. Victor says their roast duck, char siu and roasted pork belly are “oa the chain”. He also recommends the chicken ribs with salted egg yolk sauce from the a la carte menu. “Chinese

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barbecue has got to be one of the best in the world. The unique cooking techniques add tremendous depth of flavour,” he says. For refined Cantonese cooking, Victor’s pick is Flower Drum. “It’s hands down the best Chinese restaurant experience in Australia,” he says. “Their stir-fried pearl meat with spring onions and white garlic chives is an example of perfection lying in simplicity, but my favourite dish is not actually on the menu and made on request. It’s crabmeat soup dumplings – they kill and cook the crab to order.” According to Victor, the ramen game in Melbourne is still early days, but udon is perfected at Nama Nama (31 Spring St, Melbourne, (03) 9649 9500). “Their noodles are silky and their broths clean and flavoursome. Small pony glasses of tap beers for $5 accompanying great noodles, what’s not to love?” When he’s heading out for a big night, Victor’s choice is Neil Perry’s Melbourne outpost of Spice Temple (The Crown, Southbank, (03) 8679 1888). “It’s a slick restaurant with a large menu oaering great variety and a fantastic drinks list. I could drink their Rickshaw cocktails all day long,” says Victor.

“Chinese barbecue has got to be the best in the world.”

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1. Chef Dan Hong. 2. The sophisticated atmosphere of The Century at The Star. 3. Arisun’s fried chicken and beer. 4. Eric Koh’s fresh-steamed dumplings at Mr. Wong. opposite: Momofuku Seiobo at The Star.

Dan Hong The hipster chef, who grew up in a restaurateur family, has helped reinvent Chinese dining in Sydney. When he clocks oc from his roles as executive chef at Mr. Wong (3 Bridge Ln, Sydney, (02) 9240 3000), Manly’s new Papi Chulo, Ms. G’s and El Loco, he heads to Korean restaurant Arisun (1 Dixon St, Sydney, (02) 9264 1588), known for its fried chicken, beer jugs, soju shots and K-pop. “They make their own noodles, but the real attraction is the fried chicken” says Dan. Another top late-night spot is quaint Eaton Chinese Restaurant (313 Liverpool Rd, Ashfield, (02) 9798 2332). “I come here to escape the hustle of Chinatown. They do really good live seafood and crispy-skinned fried pigeon,” says Dan. “I call it the poor man’s Golden Century.” Speaking of which, Golden Century (393 Sussex St, Haymarket, (02) 9212 3901), is a hop from Dan’s CBD home, and his pick for traditional Cantonese. “Owners Eric and his wife

Linda have been doing the same food for the past 24 years and it’s still the best place to have live seafood,” says Dan. “Their steamed lobster with XO sauce is one of my top dishes, and their salt and pepper mud crab the best I’ve ever had. Golden Century is one of the biggest influences for Mr. Wong.” Eric and Linda’s son Billy opened The Century (The Star, Pyrmont, (02) 9566 2328), which has a similar menu to the original, but with a more sophisticated atmosphere. “The best dish is stir-fried lobster with ginger and spring onion,” says Dan. While the rest of us are buying our morning latte, Dan is at Happy Chef (Sussex Centre Food Court, Haymarket), which specialises in noodle soups. His order: ‘Number 1’ ($8), a Cambodian noodle soup with pork, beef, prawns, blood jelly, pig’s liver, choy sum and spring onion in a clear broth. “This place is always buzzing. Their laksa is one of the best in town,” says Dan. When it comes to specialty dishes, Dan has a “soft spot” for the Peking duck at Lao Zhou Good Luck Chinese Restaurant (180 Liverpool Rd, Enfield, (02) 9747 4625). “You have to pre-order the duck and let the chef know what time you’re coming in, as he will only serve it fresh from the oven,” says Dan. Mr. Wong’s dumpling chef Eric Koh steams everything to order. “Eric is a dim sum master. He’s worked at Hakkasan in London and Lei Garden in Singapore, and continually comes up with the best flavour combinations.”

“Golden Century is one of the biggest influences for Mr. Wong.”

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1. Chef Chui Lee Luk. 2. Tsuke-men – deconstructed ramen – from Ramen Ikkyu. 3. Fresh produce at Paddy’s Market. 4. Sydney’s new restaurant Chow Bar & Eating House. 5. Thai restaurant @ Bangkok. 5 4

Chui Lee Luk

Despite swapping her fine-diner Claude’s for the more relaxed Chow Bar & Eating House (320 Crown St, Surry Hills, (02) 8095 9058), Chui Lee Luk, who grew up in Sabah, Malaysia, still appreciates a big ticket dinner at Momofuku Seiobo (The Star, Sydney, (02) 9777 9000). “The food and service are consistently wonderful, and they have a great wine list,” says Chui, whose favourite dish is wagyu with Korean-style black bean sauce and radish. “I like sitting at the bar watching the chefs calmly preparing each dish.” When she’s in the mood for the classics, Emperor’s Garden (96 Hay St, Haymarket, (02) 9211 2135) is the old-style Chinese restaurant that Chui always returns to. “I like the roasted meats, such as pork with crackling, as only the Chinese know how to make, char siu and roast duck.” Their butcher next door, is also Dan Hong’s go-to place for good-quality pork at bargain prices. Another favourite she shares with Dan is Chinese Noodle House (8 Quay St, Haymarket, (02) 9281 4508) for their

zha jiang mian, the northern-Chinese answer to spaghetti bolognese – thick noodles topped with stir-fried pork mince. For a taste of home, Chui likes Alice’s Makan (580, George St, Sydney, (02) 9262 7771) for their assortment of kuihs (sweet Malaysian steamed rice cakes), which you have to reserve before ordering your main meal. “I really like the char kway teow, which is famous Malaysian hawker fare of stir-fried rice noodles with a selection of toppings including prawns, Chinese sausage, eggs and bean sprouts.” Another specialty that reminds Chui of Southeast Asia are the moreish peanut pancakes at Bakso House (341 Anzac Parade, Kingsford, (02) 9662 3706). Ramen Ikkyu (401 Sussex St, Haymarket, (02) 9281 0998) in Chinatown is best for noodles. “Tsuke-men (a deconstructed ramen, where the noodles and toppings are served in a separate bowl to the soup) is my favourite style as it’s light but filling, and has an intense acidity to it.” And when noodles won’t cut it, Chui heads to @ Bangkok (730 George St, Haymarket, (02) 9211 5232). “They serve fantastic deep-fried fish and deep-fried chicken. Plus there’s a band playing until close. I’m slowly learning the Thai Top 40!” For ingredients, Chui likes Jasmine Asian Supermarket (194 Burwood Rd, Burwood, (02) 9715 6868) with staf who have an “encyclopaedic knowledge” of the items they stock; Dong Nam A & Co (14 Campbell St, Sydney, (02) 9212 6673) where she can practice her Cantonese; and for inspiration, she peruses the produce at Paddy’s Markets in Haymarket. d.

“Chinese Noodle House serves the Chinese answer to bolognese.”

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Index FEBRUARY 2014

STARTERS & LIGHT MEALS Asparagus, grape & haloumi salad with vinaigrette (v) ................................18 Baked salt & vinegar potato crisps and thyme kumara chips (v) ..................71 Beetroot, blue cheese & maple-roasted walnut salad (v) .........72 Crab & watercress souffle tarts .................40 Eggplant al forno (v) ...............................107 Green bean, olive & fennel salad (v).........96 Grilled cucumbers with almond cream (v).........................103 Grilled haloumi and peaches with dukkah (v) ......................................86 King prawns with chimichurri....................33 Leek & feta tart (v) ....................................41 Pancetta & herb tart .................................40 Roasted grapes with cheese (v) ..............102 Scallops with bottarga butter and pancetta.......................................128 MAINS Barbecued lamb racks ..............................95 Barbecued pizzas........................................7 Barramundi in banana leaf with coconut rice ..................................54 Captain caveman chops .........................107 Chargrilled baby octopus with pico de gallo . ........................................52 Chilli crab..................................................54 Chilli soy prawns with ponzu aioli.............50 Chorizo, ricotta & zucchini casarecce .......61 Crispy basil salad with pork & pickled carrots.................113 Dukkah-crusted lamb cutlets with strawberry couscous......................63 Garlic & ginger eye fillet with quick cucumber & radish pickle ....65 Jamon-wrapped sardines with harissa and chickpeas ...................50 Japanese gilled salmon & seaweed salad.................................114 Lamb with fregola & olive salad .............132 Lobster & ricotta tortelloni with prosecco & tomato sauce.....................71 Pan-fried blue-eye with wild rice salad .......................................60

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Peach & pork tacos...................................62 Polenta with mixed mushrooms (v).........132 Pork schnitzel with slaw ............................34 Prawn & noodle salad with sweet chilli sauce ........................113 Ranchero breakfast tostadas (v)................84 Rib-eye steaks with lemon, caper & dill butter.....................71 Risotto with perch fillets and sage butter .................................. 130 Rojak with prawns...................................110 Salmon escalopes with dill & avocado salad......................50 Seafood espetada

SWEET THINGS Banana & lime souffles with coconut......121 Black sticky rice with mango.....................78 Cardamom panna cotta with rosewater syrup and pistachio praline...................72 Chocolate & ricotta cups with walnut crust...................................88 Chocolate s’mores....................................57 Coconut cream with vanilla granita, lychees and raspberries ......................136 Coffee granita...........................................36 Dark chocolate jellies with caramel popcorn.........................121 Flourless chocolate cake & berry trifle ...121

(Portuguese skewers) ............................64 Skirt steak with chargrilled vegetables .....92 Slow-cooked oyster blade steak with tomato relish .................................92 Smoked chicken & fig salad .....................59 Spatchcock with tarragon & garlic butter . ........................96 Spiced millet pilaf with beetroot, feta and mint (v)....................................84 Toulouse sausage with frisee salad...........95 Vietnamese chargrilled eggplant salad (v) ............................... 114 Vietnamese chicken salad (goi ga) .........110 Whole baked snapper with ginger and chilli ............................54 Whole fish with white wine and green olives .................................128 Zucchini & coconut noodles (v) ................86

Fruit skewers with gingersnap crumbs and coconut cream ...............................76 Homemade lemonade ice pops...............80 Hummingbird cake with toffee pecans.....80 Macadamia biscuit ice cream sandwiches ..80 Passionfruit & white chocolate eclairs ......72 Peach & cinnamon puff pastry squares ....41 Pears poached in red wine with ginger semifreddo ......................132 Roasted fruit ...........................................107 Strawberry & rhubarb ripple frozen yoghurt ......................................88 Yoghurt & berry gelato terrine................121 DRINKS, SIDE DISHES & ExTRAS Bakedblackberry bellini . ...................................107 Pasta dough .............................................71 Raspberry, prosecco & mint cocktail ........71

Thanks The Test Kitchen uses Scanpan cookware and utensils, Global knives and Cuisinart small appliances from Sheldon & Hammond. For national stockists, tel: 1800 209 999.

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secret address book.

Rene Redzepi The world-renowned Danish chef and co-owner of two-Michelin star restaurant Noma shares his favourite foodie spots around the globe. The ingredienT i can’T cook wiThouT

BesT place for sMall BiTes?

is… I can’t pick one specific ingredient,

The salumi, cheeses and pizza from the bakery at Salumeria Roscioli (top left) in Rome are unbeatable.

but I would choose vegetables any day. My choice for a Top Tipple… Mikkeller Beer Bar (above left) in Copenhagen for their craft beer and cool fit-out, or Torst in Brooklyn, for its 21 beer taps and restaurant out back – Luksus, from chef Daniel Burn (ex-Noma and Fat Duck). BesT place for fresh produce? Oaxaca city markets in southwest Mexico – the bright fruit and vegetables are beyond anything else you will ever see. It even dwarfs Barcelona’s huge La Boqueria. BesT place To saTisfy sweeT cravings?

B. Patisserie in San Francisco owned by pastry chef Belinda Leong is an outstanding place with great craftsmanship and an open pastry kitchen. Try her 10-hour apple tart. My recenT foodie discovery is…

the wonderful world of bugs! favouriTe spoT for a caffeine fix?

Cafe Det Vide Hus, in Copenhagen for its cosy and laid-back atmosphere, or Tim Wendelboe (left) espresso bar in Oslo, which is a micro roaster, training centre and coffee shop all in one. 154 delicious.

BesT Meal off The BeaTen Track?

Hartwood (left) in Tulum, Mexico. All the food is prepared by hand – there are no electrical appliances – and cooked in a wood burning oven or on an open grill. Top spoT for seafood? Rafa’s, a tiny, unpretentious spot serving fresh grilled seafood (a la plancha) in Roses, Spain. The foodie experience ThaT’s BesT To iMpress? Dragsholm Slot, just outside

Copenhagen, which is actually a baroque castle, restaurant, hotel and museum in one. chef To waTch… Blaine Wetzel (ex-Noma), currently at The Willows Inn on Lummi Island in the United States. He’s a really smashing individual with great talent. where i wanT To eaT nexT… the hugely popular and frequently booked-out pub The Sportsman in Seasalter, England. who i wanT To cook for nexT… my kids. when i don’T feel like cooking…

I actually cook every day – there’s just no getting around it! d.

or

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