In Mg: How To Set Up A Repair Business

in mg ewin

And

How to Set up

a Repair Business

Complete Guide to Repairing Sewing Machines Editor: H Waller

ISBN-10: 1904891292

KARNAK PUBLISHING London

KARNAK PUBLISHING London

CONTENTS

Introduction

1

Basic Parts & Controls

3

Sewing Machine Skips Stitches

5

Machine Does Not Stitch Properly

7

Sewing Machine Breaks Upper Thread

14

Lower Thread Breaks

15

Machine Breaks Needles

17

Machine Will Not Feed Fabric Through

17

Machine Doesn't Run Smoothly

18

Machine Does Not Run, But the Motor Runs

19

Motor Does Not Run

19

Shuttle Systems For Sewing Machines

21

Timing The Needle Bar

21

Sewing Machine Tension

25

Tension Assembly, Example 1

25

Removal and Disassembly

26

Tension Assembly, Example II

27

To Reassemble the Tension Unit

28

Tension Assembly, Example HI

31

Adjustments To The Tension Assembly

32

Cleaning, Oiling and Lubrication of Your Machine

34

Oiling And Creasing the Machine

35

Specific Sewing Machine Timing

37

Timing The Shuttle Hook To The Needle Bar

38

Example One - P-260/P-360 Machines

39

Adjusting Needle To The Shuttle Hook

42

Example Two-A Necchi Straight Stitch Machines

42

Clearance Between Needle and Shuttle Hook

44

Shuttle Hook In Shuttle Carrier Adjustment

45

The Presser Bar And Its Purpose

46

Feed Dog Adjustments - Straight Stitch Machine

47

Needle/Shuttle Clearance - Zigzag Machines

49

Free-Arm Sewing Machines

50

Machines With Slanting Shuttle Rotary Hook

52

Example Three - Shuttle Hook And Needle Timing

»

52

Machines With Gears

55

Example Four - Timing The Shuttle Hook & Needle Bar

55

Timing The Shuttle Hook

57

Machines With Belt Drive Assembly

59

Example Five - Timing The Shuttle Hook To The Needle "S" Series...59

Example Six - Timing Shuttle Hook To Needle "N" Series

61

Timing The Needle Bar To Shuttle Hook

63

"Model Number" Chart

64

Example Seven - Adjusting Needle Bar Height "Bro" Series

65

Shuttle Hook Point Clearance-Transverse Race Models

66

Timing Shuttle Hook to Needle - Transverse Race & Free Arm

67

Height Of Presser Bar

69

Adjustment of Feed Cam

70

Adjusting The Height Of The Feed Dog

72

Shuttle Driver Shaft and Raceway Clearance Separation

73

ZigZag Width Adjustment

74

ZigZag Satin Stitch Seams

75

Feed Regulator Grooved Cam Adjustment

76

Adjustment To Center Needle In Needle Plate

77

Trouble Shooting Chart For "Example Seven" Machines

78

Hints For The Sewer/Crafter

81

Fabric/Thread/Needle Compatibles

84

Fibers and Usage

85

Fabric, Thread, Needle and Stitch Length Chart

87

Sewing Machine Attachments

89

Fabric Conversion Chart

90

The Sewing Room

91

Sewing Machine Repair as a Home Business

105

Starting Your Business

107

Naming Your Business

109

Business License

Ill

State Government Information Numbers

113

Work Out Of My Garage Or Find A Business Location?

116

Bookkeeping

117

Help From the Small Business Administration

121

Setting Business Goals

129

The Sewing Machine Repair Market

132

Charging For Sewing Machine Repair

133

Advertising Your Services

135

Important Disclaimer

142

Checklist for Starting Your Sewing Machine Repair Business

143

Sample Forms and Advertisements

156

Wholesale Suppliers

168

Blindstitch/Hemming Machines

169

Computerized Sewing Machine Example

179

Mechanical Parts Layout

180

Disassemble and Reassemble

184

Adjusting Mechanical Areas

195

Adjusting Electrical Functions

209

NOTES

INTRODUCTION Sewing machine repair is one of the fastest growing profes

sions in the world today. Never before have the money making opportunities been so great in this field. Sewing magazines,

fabric

stores,

high

schools

and

colleges

are

encouraging

millions of women to do their own sewing, as well as sewing for their children, husbands, boy-friends, etc. Statistics show that over 85,000,000 (yes, 85 million)

American women, because of the high cost of ready to wear garments,

as

well as poor quality workmanship, are

making almost all the clothing for their entire family.

now

Most of

these women find true satisfaction and enjoyment in making the family wardrobes on their own sewing machines. When you consider the fact that there are 85 million or more

sewing machines in homes today, not counting another ten million

sewing

machines

in grade schools, high

schools,

colleges, dry cleaners, tailor shops, hospitals, prisons, there is a

never ending supply of sewing machines that need to be cleaned, adjusted, timed, etc.

All sewing machines need to be

serviced AT LEAST once a year, some as often as quarterly.

"Sewing Machine Repair as a Home Business" will teach

you how to do over 80% of the repair jobs as well as how to set up your business, how to advertise, how to charge, etc. I recommend that those repair jobs that require parts to be replaced or major overhaul be taken to an authorized service center for that particular machine.

It would require a very large

inventory of parts to allow you to do repairs on all the makes and models of sewing machines that are available today.

The

vast majority of sewing machine repair jobs will be simple cleaning, oiling, adjusting the tensions and timing, all of which require no special tools or inventory of parts.

NOTES

A few foreign models require special tools that are made to

adjust their machines only.

and all machines,

Your best bet on these machines,

is to get as much information as possible

from the caller, so you'll know exactly the type of repair job you're looking at when you take the job. If the sewing machine owner talks about a broken part, broken gears, or a major repair, I would recommend that you send these customers to

your local contact for major repair jobs. Or, if your local repair shop has agreed to repair these machines FOR YOU, then you an pick up the machine, take it to be repaired, then pick up the

epaired machine and return it to the customer with an added harge for the service. Remember this is a service business and

he better service we give our customers, the longer you and I

will stay in business. Excellent service will reward you with epeat business as well as "word of mouth" advertising as one eamslress tells her friends about your great service!

If this is your first attempt to do any work on a sewing nachine, I would suggest that you find a machine or two at

yard sales and, using this book as a guide, proceed to fix the Machines and get them humming again; then turn around and re-sell the repaired sewing machines. The more you work on

sewing machines, the more proficient you will become at diagnosing the problem and getting it fixed.

BASIC PARTS AND CONTROLS Thread guide

Slitch width regulator

Pressure regulator

Spool pin Needle position selector Bobbin winding assembly

Take-up lever

Handwheel

Thread guide

Thread check spring —\—

Sewing Tension discs

'Hiread guides

Stitch length regulator

Reverse stitching

Tension regulator

Needle clamp Presser tool clamp I*resser fool

Needle , Throat plate

Feed

Bobbin case

Bobbin Slide plate

There are dozens of sewing machines on the market

today, each one emphasizing what they do that other ones cannot do. In addition, there are hundreds of older models that are in homes and sewing shops all over the country.

With the emphasis on the differences, it's sometimes easy to forget how basically similar all sewing machines are. All of the operating parts that are labeled on the machine on this page are common to any average machine that will do both straight and zig zag stitching. The position of some of these

items may differ and be placed somewhat differently on some machines, but all the parts are there. The basic requirement of all the various sewing machines is a precisely timed movement of the needle and shuttle hook to manipulate the top and bottom (bobbin)

thread to make a stitch. The method the machines use to make the stitches is shown in figure 101:

Bobbin-winding tension spring

1) The needle penetrates the fabric to take the top thread into the bobbin area.

2) As the needle rises, the top thread forms a loop for the shuttle hook to catch.

3) The shuttle hook carries the thread loop around and under the bobbin case. 4) The loop slides off the hook and bobbin case, and goes around the bobbin thread. 5) The threads are pulled up and are set into the fabric as a lockstitch.

Because of the similarities between all of the sewing

machines on the market, it is thus possible to write a sewing machine repair manual that would apply to all machines. The instructions written throughout this book are

general in nature and apply to any type of sewing machine. There may be an exception to some instructions because

there are hundreds of different makes and models of sewing machines made all over the world. To make a book of this type, usable by anyone owning a sewing machine, it is

necessary to write in general terms. If there is an exception,

and our suggestion to a particular problem does not seem to

work on your machine, please refer to your sewing ma chine's operational manual - the manufacturer's instruction manual does take precedence. If the problem you're having is one of a broken part, worn gear that needs to be replaced, etc., you must take the machine to an authorized service center for repair.

Fig.

102 GROOVED SIDE

f FLAT SURFACED SIDE

The problems addressed throughout this book refer to ones dealing with threads, tensions, fabric problems, cleaning, etc., which covers over 75% of the problems any

seamstress/crafter or home sewer encounters. I.

Sewing machine skips stitches: 1)

Needle inserted improperly. A. The flat side of the needle must face the shaft, (see figure 102)

B. The groove in the needle faces away from the shaft; (this applies to needles that are

round, with no flat side (see figure 102). Correct needle insertion is mandatory for the proper

use of your sewing machine. Raise the needle bar to the highest point, then loosen the clamp screw to remove the old needle. Place the new needle in the clamp with the flat side of the needle facing the back (or if using a round needle, the groove in the needle should face away from the shaft). Push the needle all the way up to the stop, or as far as it will go, then tighten the needle clamp screw (figure 103). Fig.

103

Needle Bar

Needle-Clamp Screw

Needle Clamp

Flat Side to Back

Changing Ihe Needle

NOTES

2.

Possible bent needle - lay the needle on a flat

surface and roll the needle over. If the needle does not roll true, then replace the needle. 3.

Blunt needle point - if the needle make a

popping sound when the needle penetrates the fabric, the needle point is blunt and needs to be replaced.

4.

Needle is not all the way up in holder - loosen needle clamp screw and push the needle up until it stops; tighten clamp screw.

5.

Incorrect threading - check your instruction manual for proper threading of your sewing

machine. It only takes one missed step in the sequence of threading to cause your machine to skip stitches.

6.

Wrong needle for your machine - Check your instruction manual for the proper needle for the make and model number of your particular machine. Some machines can use a generic type needle with no problem; however, some

machines require the specific ones mentioned in the instruction manual.

7.

Size of needle and thread not compatible - In some cases sewers get in too big a hurry to get

started on the sewing or craft project to take the time to be sure they're using the correct needle and thread for the type of fabric they'll be using. By using the wrong type of needle for the job, the end result is not what you want, and

perhaps will even cause stitching problems throughout the project. A needle too fine for heavy fabric can bend or break when it hits the fabric, while too large a needle for the fabric can make puncture holes in the fabric and also cause the thread to pull unevenly while stitch ing. The best practice is to check before beginning a project to be sure you're using the

right fabric/lhread/needle combinations (refer to chart in the back of this book). 6

II.

Machine does not stitch properly: 1.

The first things you will want to check are if

both the upper and lower tensions are adjusted properly. Remove the bobbin case from the shuttle, then remove the shuttle from the shuttle

carrier. Put the bobbin case and shuttle to gether (figure #104). Hold the thread (figure

#104) and shake gently. If the bobbin case and shuttle slide down the thread fast, then turn the adjusting screw clockwise to tighten. If the bobbin case and shuttle will not slide down the thread at all you will need to loosen the adjust ing screw counter-clockwise until the bobbin

and shuttle slide down a little, but stop when you stop gently shaking the thread. This pro cedure works on nearly every sewing machine. Fig.

104

Bobbin case

Shuttle

Now that you have the lower tension adjusted prop

erly, put the shuttle back into the shuttle carrier of the sewing machine and put the bobbin case back into the shuttle. Once you have adjusted your lower tension following the previ ous instructions, some minor adjustment of your upper tension may be necessary to obtain proper tension for your sewing machine. You should now sew a little on some scrap material to finalize your upper tension adjustment. Adjust your upper tension until your thread ties as shown in Figure 105 sample "A" next page:

NOTES

NOTES

UPPER

105-A

CORRECT

TENSION

If your stitching looks like sample "B", the upper

tension is too tight, and if it looks like sample "C", the lower tension is too tight We recommend that you use a different color of thread on top than in the bobbin in order to readily see how your stitching line looks on the fabric.

105-B

05-C

UPPER TENSION TOO TIGHT

LOWER TENSION

TOO TIGHT

NOTE:

In most cases you will not have to adjust your

lower tension. However, if you cannot get the upper tension to adjust properly, then and only then do you adjust your lower tension according to the instructions previously given. NOTE:

As you change to sewing on different weight

materials, test sew on a piece of scrap material of the same weight before beginning the actual sewing project so that you can adjust your upper tension to that particular material.

As an example, if you're changing from a denim type material to a silky type material, you would definitely want to make sure the tension is correct and the stitching looks right before you actually start to sew on the garment. To determine whether the upper tension is too tight or too loose for the fabric you're wanting to use, try the

following test. Take a small scrap of the fabric, fold it, and stitch a line on the bias of the fabric, using different colors

of thread in the bobbin and on top. Grasp the bias line of stitching between the thumb and index finger. Space the hands about 3 inches apart and pull with an even, quick force

until one thread breaks. If the broken thread is the color of the thread in the needle, it means that the upper tension is too tight. If the broken thread is the color of the bobbin thread, the upper tension is too loose. If both threads break together

and take more force to break, it means that the tensions are balanced (figure 106). Fig.

106

NOTES

NOTES

2.

Stitches ragged - This problem most likely will happen when two different sizes of thread are being used. Use the same thread in the bobbin

as on the spool. Never mix different sizes of thread. (The exception to this is if you're doing

sewing machine embroidery, where you might be using a heavier thread on the top to get a

certain effect for the embroidery project)

3.

Length of stitch erratic - This happens if the feed dog is not at the right height Refer to your

sewing machine instruction manual for the

adjustment of your feed dog. Presser bar adjustment might also need to be made. Check your machine manual, but in most cases the adjustment is a dial knob on top over the drop lever that lets down the presser foot Other types are press down adjustment knob, screw down, or sometimes a dial knob inside the sewing opening at the left end of the sewing machine where your light bulb is. This presser

bar adjustment is very important when you change from light weight material to a heavy weight material. The presser bar adjustment controls how fast or slow the feed dogs "walk" your material through the sewing area.

The following diagrams show, first of all, how each of the presser bar adjustments work, so that you will be able to easily locate the type you have on your machine (figure

107). Secondly, figure 108 shows you what the pressure and feed area on the machine looks like, and the various parts that interact together.

10

Fig.

108

Pressure

Regulator

Spring

D Presser

foot

lifter

(down)

Push bar

foot

bar

\JuiJ 1/ A.

The dial on the side of the machine will either

have numbers or words for the selection process. The words are self-explanatory.

If your machine has numbers, the

higher the number, the greater the pressure.

B.

The dial on the top of the machine could also

have either numbers or words. If the settings are words, they are usually "maximum", "minimum" or "darn". C.

The push bar regulator has a "lock-release"

collar around it. When the bar is pushed down to increase

the pressure, the collar locks the bar into place. When the collar is pushed, the bar is released and the pressure is decreased.

D.

The screw type regulator is turned clockwise

to increase the pressure, and counterclockwise to decrease the pressure.

Figure 108 shows how the pressure and feed interact with each other to' produce an evenly stitched seam. Pres

sure is the downward force that is placed on the fabric by the presser foot to hold the fabric layers taut in order that they

might move together during the stitching process. spring on the presser foot bar controls the amount of ii

The

pressure applied. The pressure is changed by the use of the pressure regulator previously described and shown in figure 108. NOTE: The pressure on the presser foot can be changed only when the presser foot is in the "down"

NOTES

position.

Feed is the upward force that moves the fabric under

the presser foot. The "stitch length" knob controls the feed. The shorter you have the stitch length set, the shorter is the

distance the feed moves the fabrics between each new stitch. The longer the stitch length is, the greater is the distance between each new stitch. The following diagrams (figure 109) show how the feed and pressure work together to make the stitches. Fig.

109

A

A.

While the needle and thread penetrate the

fabric, both the feed and presser foot hold the fabric taut. As

the needle descends, the feed descends, leaving only the presser foot in contact with the fabric.

B.

As the needle is coming up out of the fabric, the

feed is moving forward. While this is happening, the presser foot continues to be in contact with the fabric. C. As the needle continues to move upward and to bring the stitch with it, the feed is also moving up toward the fabric. The presser foot continues to hold the fabric.

12

D. As the stitch is being set into the fabric, the feed comes up to help the presser foot keep the fabric taut and then to advance the fabric one stitch length (the stitch length being regulated by the "stitch length" knob).

NOTE: Never pull your material through the sewing area! Let the feed dogs walk your material through -- that's what they are there for!

4.

Stitches loose - Loose stitches indicate a ten sion problem. Go back to the instructions for adjusting then tensions to correct this.

5.

Thread loops on bottom - Looping thread could be caused by two tilings - a blunt needle

or a tension problem. Check the needle first. If

it is even slightly rough and "blunt" at the tip, change it. Don't wait for a needle to actually break before changing it - many times stkching problems could be prevented altogether if a proper sharp needle is used. If the needle is okay, check the tension by using a scrap piece

of material of the same weight as the sewing project, and refer back to the section on tension adjustments.

6.

Frayed stitches - Clean the machine of all lint in the lower bobbin assembly area. Also re move the feed dog (throat plate) in the needle area by removing the screw and lifting the

plate off (figure 110) and brush out the lint. 7.

Zig Zag stitches uneven - Check the tension to

correct this problem. Refer to the section on tension adjustment, and again, by using two

different colors of thread you will be able to see quickly the tension adjustment that needs

to be made.

rl

no

13

NOTES

III.

Sewing Machine breaks upper thread:

There are several possibilities why the machine breaks the upper thread. Use the following check list to sec which is the problem in your particular instance: 1.

Needle in backwards - in many cases the sewer

either may not be aware that there is a right or wrong way to insert the needle, or she may be in a hurry and unknowingly put it in wrong. In

over 50% of my machine repair jobs the needle is in backwards, so this is definitely something you should be aware of and always put the needle in correctly (refer to diagrams in Section I).

2.

The upper tension may be too tight - Refer to the section on tensions to correct this.

3.

The needle may be bent - Try rolling the needle on a flat surface to see if it is bent or not. If

the needle is bad, change it. 4.

The thread may be hanging up on the bobbin case - check this area for lint or fragments of old threads that need to be cleaned out.

5.

Knotty or cheap thread is being used - Always use a good quality thread for your sewing.

The pennies you save buying cheap thread could cost you big dollars on your sewing

machine maintenance bill. Try holding a length of the cheap thread up to a lighted window and just look at all the fuzz on it. The fuzz causes

a weakening in the thread which will cause the thread to break off when it goes through the needle's eye and bobbin case and also lints up your machine and causes your machine to clog

up and drag, which will end up costing you big bucks from the maintenance person. Buy

good quality thread, test it, and look at the

difference between the two threads. U

IV.

Lower threw) breaks: 1.

The most probable cause of lower thread break ing is an improperly wound bobbin. Refer to your instruction book to see where to wind your bobbin. It may be the type thaL rewinds right in the machine, or maybe the winding

mechanism is on the top near the hand wheel or on the front side near the hand wheel. Re

gardless of where you wind the bobbin, the basic rules apply to every type:

A)

Always start with an empty bobbin. Never wind one color over another color.

B)

Choose thread that is identical in color and type as the one to be used for upper threading.

Q

D)

Wind the bobbin evenly across and in level layers (see figure 111), for the right and wrong way to wind a bobbin. Don't wind the bobbin so full that it would be tight and hard to insert into the bobbin case. Most machines have an

automatic "shut off when the bobbin gets full, but if yours does not, be care ful not to fill it too full. Fig.

111 Kight

2. 3.

Bent bobbin - replace the bobbin and throw the old one away.

Lint build-up in the bobbin case - frequent cleanings will eliminate this problem. The more you use the sewing machine, the more often it needs to be cleaned.

4.

Thread catching on a spring or latch on the bobbin case - check to see that the bobbin is in serted completely and correctly, and that you

are using the right kind of bobbin. Check your

NOTKS

NOTES

owners manual for the type of bobbin you

should use. Be sure lo replace any bobbin that is worn, nicked or cracked, as a damaged

bobbin can cause sewing problems. It is good to have several extras on hand. The following

chart shows the various types of bobbins (figure 112):

A)

Most drop-in bobbins are made of plas tic, but they can also be made of metal. They are smooth surfaced and the sides are usually rounder than other types of bobbins.

B)

Special drop-in bobbins are made for those machines that have a re-wind mechanism built into the machine, that

allows you to rewind the bobbin with out taking it out. This type of bobbin is made of clear plastic and the top half is sometimes larger than the bottom half. The top side also usually has circular

Q

lines indicating fullness of the bobbin. Removable case bobbins may be made of plastic or metal. Their sides may be smooth surfaced, but some of the metal ones have several holes in each of the sides.

16

NOTE:

Not just sewing machine companies make

bobbins - you can get generic type bobbins especially for the "removable case" bobbins and others as well, just make sure they are the same type and look the same as the one pictured in your owner's manual.

V.

Machine breaks needles;

1.

Make sure you are using the right needle for your type of sewing machine. Most machines can use the generic "Schmitz" needles; how

ever, there are cases where the machine will only use the ones specified in the owner's manual.

2.

The presser foot may not be installed properly.

3.

Use the correct needle for the type of fabric you are working with; too fine a needle on heavy fabric or too coarse a needle on silky or

jersey fabrics will cause problems. Refer to ihe "fabric/needie/lhread" chart for assistance

4.

here.

The operator of the sewing machine is pulling the fabric through the presser foot. Let the feed dogs guide the cloth through and under the presser foot; this is their job!

5.

The needle is not all the way in - make sure Ihe needle is set all the way up against the stop when you insert it.

VI.

Machine will no! feed fabric through: 1.

The stitch adjustment control is set at "0" adjust the stitch length to the proper "normal" setting.

2.

3.

The presser foot thumb screw is not tight. The feed dog adjustment is in the wrong posi

tion. Check to see that it is set to a raised position and not dropped down to the 17

NOTES

NOTKS

"darning" position. 4.

Presser bar not adjusted correctly - adjust as needed. For thin material adjust to a little pressure on the fool; heavy fabric (denim, etc.)

will need more pressure on the foot. Refer to the section on presscr bar adjustments.

Ml.

Machine doesn't run smoothly: I.

The moving parts may need oiling - the simple way to know what to oil and where is "if it moves, oil it". Check your operation manual

fora picture of the sewing machine and it should tell you where the locations are that

need oil. (NOTE: Do not oil the electrical wiring or motor! Some older model motors have a location at each end for a drop of oil. Again, check the operation manual of your particular machine for specific oiling information.) 2.

Lint and thread may be clogging the shuttle and hook assembly area (this is where your bobbin is located). Also, lint and thread may be jammed under the presser foot and feed dog area. Remove the screw holding the plate down and clean all of the lint and thread from this area. If your machine is used a lot, this cleaning should be done once a month: if it is

used only once a week, then every three months should be often enough. 3.

If you just cleaned the shuttle and bobbin area, check that area again to see if you may have

4.

mis-aligned something and it is binding, caus ing your machine to run hard. If you just replaced a motor belt, it may be too tight - adjust the belt so it will press together about half an inch or less (using the thumb ami 18

index finger). Try running the machine again; adjust again until your machine stops running hard. (CAUTION: If the motor belt is left too light, it could burn out the motor, so it's better

to have it a little loose than to be too tight.)

5.

If your motor belt is located inside the ma chine, it is best to take it to a dealer or author

ized service repairman to replace it.

VIII. Machine does not run, but the motor runs: 1.

The motor belt is probably broken. You can replace the belt, but as previously mentioned,

if the motor belt is located inside the machine, you should take it to an authorized service center for repair.

2.

The motor belt may be loose - adjust it so that the belt is light, but not too tight.

VIV. Motor docs not run: 1.

The electi'icai cord may be defective - replace with a new electrical cord.

2.

The electrical cord may have come unplugged from the wall socket (don't laugh - this hap pens more often than you might think!)

3.

The motor may be burned out - smell the motor to see if it smells like a pair of dirty smelly socks. If the motor smells, it needs to be replaced.

4.

The foot control may be defective - if this is the case, you need to lake it to un authorized

service repairman to be replaced. (NOTE: If the foot control is partially burned out, the

control will run at high speed only. Again, this problem needs to be taken care of by an author ized repairman.)

19

NOIKS

CAUTION: I recommend lhat you make it a habit to turn off the power and light switch before changing needles, presser feet or throat plates and when leaving the machine unat

tended.

This will eliminate the possibility of a child or

someone starting the sewing machine by accidentally press ing the speed control fool.

SHUTTLE SYSTEMS FOR SEWING MACHINES: There are three basic sewing mechanisms in the

lockstitch category (Figure 113). The simplest type is the

"vibrator" (long shuttle) (A). These machines have a vibrator mechanism and are relatively simple to operate. There are many variations of the "oscillating hook" mechanism (B). The Class 15 and Class 66 are the most popular. Foreign manufacturer's prefer the Class 15. "Class" refers to the type of shuttle used. The third type of shuttle system is the "rotary" shuttle (C). The rotary mechanism makes a complete revolution instead of the oscillating type. Figure

113

Shuttle Assembly:

(A) Long Shuttle

(B) Oscillator (C) Rotary.

shuttle Shuttle rotary

shuttle long

bobbin round

i

bobbin

rotary

shuttle

bobbin

carrier

bobbin

case

bobbin

TIMING NEEDLE BAR TO SHUTTLE - CLASS 15:

The needle bar on the conventional Class 15 machine is controlled by a connecting link, fixed to a stud that is threaded into the main shaft cam.

Figure 1 14 shows the

relation of the cam to the needle bar, and the parts which

NOTES

NOT1SS

must be removed to disassemble it. Screw 114A is accessable through a hole cut in [he body under the machine arm.

To loosen screw 114A, turn it counter clockwise allowing

the needle bar to be removed, or timed, whichever is necessary. The Class 15 Sewing machine can be timed at the needle bar with a simple adjustment. Turn the hand wheel until the take-up arm is at it's highest point of travel. Move the hand wheel toward the

front of the machine until the set screw (114A) is visible through the access hole. Remove both screws, then remove the needle plate. Loosen the set screw (114A). Lower the needle bar manu ally while turning the hand wheel to the front of the machine until the shuttle point aligns with the needle eye.

As the shuttle point comes close to the needle eye, set the shuttle point about 3/32" above Ihe eye of the needle (Figure 115). Figure Figure

( 1 14A)

22

115

Tighten the set screw (114A), replace the needle plate, tighten both screws, and sew off on test material. When you reset the timing on a sewing machine, always replace the needle first before doing the test sewing.

The new needle will assure that you won't have a problem with a slightly bent needle or one that is damaged. When a sewing machine is properly timed, the shuttle point will reach its intersect point just above the eye of the needle, immediately after the needle reaches its lowest point, hesitates, and starts its upward stroke. Most late model Class 15 machines have a "timing mark" on the needle bar. To time a machine with a timing mark, remove the face plate, turn the hand wheel to the front

until the set screw (114A) is visible through the access hole on the underside of the arm. Loosen the screw and move the needle bar until the timing mark is flush with the lower end of the needle bar bushing. Tighten the set screw and replace the face plate.

CAUTION: When adjusting the needle bar, always hold the needle bar in its place so it won't twist to one side. The

smallest turn will cause the machine to skip stitches. If this timing process seems too difficult for you, please have your local sewing machine repair technician complete this task.

NOTE: Before setting about to time your machine, check the needle clamp and stop screw. Sometimes the stop screw will break off and when the needle is inserted in the clamp and the needle will slide up too far, causing the machine to skip stitches or will not pick up the lower thread at all.

23

NOTKS

NOTES

The Automatic Zig Zag machine started in the early

1950's. Elna was the first, then Pfaff, Nccchi and Viking. We will cover a Pfaff model (230/360) just to show

how to time the zig zag machine. Set the machine for the widest zig-zag stitch and put the needle position lever in the center position. Remove itie face and needle plates. Turn the hand wheel until the needle is on its "down" stroke. Loosen screw "A" (Figure 116) through the opening in the needle bar frame.

Hold the

needle bar firmly so the needle bar does not turn. Adjust the needle to the correct height - the point o( the shuttle hook should be .02" above the lop of the needle eye. Position the needle bar and tighten the set screw (A). Figure

116

NOTE: Most sewing machines are timed generally

the same - adjust the needle bar with the needle in place to

the point of the shuttle that catches the upper thread and pulls the upper thread down and around the shuttle, which

then picks up the lower thread, giving you the lock stitch effect.

It would be impossible to cover each of the hundreds and hundreds of different models that the various manufac turers throughout the world make.

However, if you just

understand the above procedures in general, then all you need to do to time any sewing machine is locate the screw 24

that holds the needle bar secure, then loosen it and adjust the

NOTES

needle bar so the shuttle point picks up the upper thread from the needle eye as it starts its upward movement. You may have to adjust the needle bar on a trial and error basis to get your type of machine timed, but in many cases so do the

sewing machine service technicians.

SEWING MACHINE TENSIONS TENSION ASSEMBLY Example I - Thread Tension Unit

As a general rule most tension assemblies are nearly the same. The most important task when removing your

tension unit from the machine is to MAKE SURD you lay out each part as you remove it from the shaft! In other words, make sure you know how it comes apart so lhat you

can reassemble it in the same order as it came apart. If you place one part in the wrong position, your tension will not

work properly when you reinstall it in the machine!

In the NOTES section of your book write down all the date pertaining to your machine. For example, write down how the tension assembly came apart noting each piece as it comes oft" the machine. If somehow your tension parts get mixed up, or if you have to stop in the middle of the job and

someone comes by and gets the parts out of order, etc., without the detailed notes on disassembling the tension, it

would be impossible to get it back together right Figure 117

is an example of a thread tension unit, as it comes off the machine.

Figure Releasing

Pin

1 1 7

Indicator Stop

Thread Guard

Spring \

Cup \

Stud

iio

Dial

25

NOTES

Some foreign manufactured machines have tension units that are different than the American made machines.

REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY

Open the face plate, loosen the stud screw and re

move the entire tension assembly as illustrated in Figure 117. Loosen the set screw in the dial and remove the dial.

Turn the adaptor to the left until it is free from lite stud. Remove the indicator stop, spring, cup, and tension releas ing pin. The check spring, tension discs, and thread guard

should be removed from the stud as a unit (Figure 118). Figure

118

Vr5

Hi.* lea a i mj Pin

/

Stud

26

Tail

v/

chock Spring

of

Spring \

Check

Thread Guard

T^J

Spring -—~4-s?

REASSEMBLY AND RElMJtCEMENTOFTENSION Replace the releasing pin in the stud. Place tension

discs on the thread guard, aligning the coil of the check spring with the holes in the tension discs and thread guard and place the assembly on the stud with the tail of the check

spring entering the top groove of the sprocket on the stud.

Replace cup spring, indicator stop and adaptor. Replace dial, making sure that the stop on the inside of the dial is in contact with Lhe left side of the indicator stop tab when the

dial is set at zero "0" tension. Tighten the set screw and insert the entire assembly into the machine, making sure the check spring is resting on die top surface of die check spring stop (Figure 118).

TENSION ASSEMBLY Example 11 - Graduated Tension

1.

Loosen the set screw (Figure 119) and remove the tension assembly from the machine.

Figure

2.

119

Turn the tension adjusting nut (Figure 120 "B") until zero on the tension index flange (Figure 120 "D") is opposite the pointer on the tension indicator (Figure 120 "G"). Figure

120

NOTES

NOTES

3.

Next press in the index flange (Figure 120

"D") lo disengage the pin (Figure 120 "C") in the tension adjusting nut (Figure 120 "13") from the flange, and remove

the tension adjusting nut and flange, the flange slop, motion washer (Figure 121 "E"), tension spring (Figure 121 "F), indicator (Figure 121 "G")« tension releasing pin (Figure

121 "J") and the tension disc assembly (Figure 121 "H") which includes the thread take-up spring, thread take-up spring thread guard and two discs.

NQ1E: Always lay out the parts as you remove them,

in the order that they come off the stud to make easier reassembling.

TO REASSEMBLE HIE TENSION UNIT 1.

Put the two tension discs (Figure 122 "L") with

the convex sides facing each other. Place in position on the

thread take-up spring thread guard (Figure 122 "M"). Pass

the eye of the thread take-up spring (Figure 122 "N") under the thread guard (Figure 122 "M"), making sure that the coils of the spring are above the tension discs. Figure

122

N

2.

Put the threaded end of the tension stud (Figure

123 "O") through the coils of the take-up spring (Figure 123 28

"P") (hen through (he holes in (he (wo tension discs (Figure 123 "L") and thread guard (Figure 123 "M") and through the eye of Ihe take-up spring, letting the end of the take-up

spring enter one of the grooves in the stud (Figure 123 "Q"). 3.

Next place the tension releasing pin (Figure 123 "J")

in the tension stud. Figure

1 23 o

I Q

4.

Hold the parts already assembled against the

shoulder of the stud and put the tension indicator (Figure 324 "G") on Ihe stud. Now insert the tension spring (Figure

124 "F") in the indicator with the first half-turn of the spring below the stud or away from the pointer of the indicator

(Figure 124).

5.

Figure 124

Now put the index flange stop washer (Figure

124 "E") on the stud with its extension toward the indicator pointer.

If the spring and stop washer are in the correct

position, the extension (Figure 125 "S") will clear the first coil of the spring. Figure

125

29

NOTES

NOTES

6.

Put Ihe tension index flange (Figure 124 "D")

on the stud, placing it so the number I is opposite the pointer on the tension indicator (Figure 124 "G"), pressing ft inward

until the tension adjusting nut (Figure 124 "B") can be turned onto the stud.

7.

Now insert the pin (Figure 124 "C") into dif

ferent holes in the flange until you find one which permits the full range of tension from light tension to tight tension to be produced with one revolution of the tension adjusting nut.

8.

Lower the presser bar to eliminate the pressure

on the tension releasing pin (Figure 124 "J"). 9.

Put the complete tension assembly back into

the machine, having the long lug (Figure 123 "K") enter the

hole (Figure 126 "U"), with the pointer (Figure 124 "G") at the top, and the thread take-up spring resting on the slack thread regulator (Figure 126 "V"). Figure

10.

126

Push the complete tension unit in as far as it

will go, then tighten the set screw (Figure 126 "A"). 11.

The tension of the thread take-up spring (Fig

ure 124 T) should be just taut enough to take up the slack of the needle thread as the eye of the needle penetrates the

fabric in its downward motion. A slight adjustment in the tension on the take-up spring may be made by loosening the tension set screw (Figure 124 "A") and turning the tension

30

stud, wilh the indicator (Figure 124 "G") to the left for more tension, or to the right for less tension.

If the correct tension cannot be obtained without turning the indicator pointer (Figure 124 "G") to a position

that you cannot read, remove the assembly from the ma chine then remove the end of the thread take-up spring fromthe groove (Figure 123 "Q") in the tension slud. Turn the spring and place its end in the groove in which it produces the correct tension.

The tension on the needle thread is obtained by turning the tension adjusting nut (Figure 124 "B"). If the

right tension cannot be obtained by this method, adjust the tension as follows:

1.

Press in the tension index flange (Figure 124 "D") to disengage the pin (Figure 124 "C") in the tension adjusting nut (Figure 124 "B")

from the flange. 2.

Reset the pin in one of the other holes in the flange.

3.

Turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise to

increase the tension. 4.

Turn the tension adjusting nut counter-clock wise to decrease the tension.

TENSION ASSEMB1Y Example III

The tension assembly works for two different tension jobs: 1.

Pre-tension of approximately 10 grams for rewinding your bobbins, and

2.

Your sewing tension adjusts from "0" to approximately 500 grams, so that you can

manually adjust, with your tension dial setting, from "0"-"9".

31

NOTES

Before you make any adjustments to your tension

unit, he sure the pressure on the pull-pin in the tension assembly is released when the tension dial is set at "0" or when the presser bar is in the up or raised position. When your presser bar is in the raised position or your

tension dial is set at "0", the pre-tension applies approxi mately 10 grams of drag on the needle thread. When you wind a bobbin and the thread is very loosely wound and loops of thread show around the bobbin, it is an indicatorion that your prc-tension adjustment is not corrcet. Too much pre-tension ean and will cause your thread to break when winding a bobbin.

ADJUSTMENTSTO11IE TENSION ASSEMBIY Figure

mm®

127

E F G -

.uzir

B

1

1

Figure

128

!

1.

Remove face plate and the top cover.

2.

Remove the thread guard screw "A"; swing

out and remove thread guard "B". 3.

Remove set screw "C".

4.

Remove outer nut "D".

5.

Remove inner nut "E".

NOTE:

Be very

careful when removing this inner nut "E". If you do not have

a reversible pliers set, you can use the handle end of a small screw driver that has a rubber covering on the handle. Be sure thai you do not use a metal tool on the inner nut as you may damage it.

6.

Remove the slotted friction washer "F".

7.

Adjust ihe pre-tension adjusting nut "G" clock

wise to increase the drag and counter clockwise to decrease the drag on your tension.

8.

Check the tension by pulling thread through

the tension discs for a slight drag. 9.

Replace the slotted friction washer "F" and

inner nut "E".

JO.

Thread the outer nut "D" and check for dis

tance between the center disc "1" and the left tension disc

"H". This clearance should be approximately .020 inches. 11.

Reinstall hex socket set screw "C" in the outer

nut"D". 12.

NOTE; If you still have problems with your

tension adjustments, contact your local service technician for more in-depth repairs.

33

■ -..-- I

NOTES

CLEANING,OILING AND LUBRICATION OFYOUK MACHINE I cannot stress the fact often enough that you need to keep your machine clean, oiled and lubricated. If you have a problem with your thread breaking or your thread loose

(looping ii]) under your fabric) or stitches too light, etc., the very first step to take is vo clean all lint, broken thread, etc.

from the machine. Cleaning 1.

Clean the lint and broken strands of thread

from between the tension discs (Figure 129). Figure

129

Oil Behind Face Plate

Oil Oil

Tension

Discs

Oil

2.

Clean the lint and broken strands of thread

from around the feed dog area (Figure 130). Figure

130 Brush

Oil

34

3.

Clean the Jint and broken pieces of thread from

around the shuttle and bobbin area ( Figure 130). All of the above three problem areas can and will cause tension changes which directly affect your thread's running smoothly throughout these areas.

OILING AND GREASING THE MACHINE A general rule of thumb to remember is "if it moves,

oil k". (Only a drop will do\) Do not over oil your sewing machine - just oil it a little more often. 1.

Remove the two screws holding the top cover

down, exposing the moving parts. Put a drop of oil on each area that moves (Figure 131). figure

131

011

Oil

Gear

Lubricant

XT)

_ i

=TBt f 2.

Grease all the gears with a light weight grease,

and again, only a dab will suffice (Figure 131). Lift the machine up to expose the bottom of the machine. All sewing machines are generally built the same.

Some parts are in different places and were designed a little differently by the various manufacturers, but overall the same principles apply to all of them.

I.

As you did for the top part of the machine, turn

the hand wheel to note all the moving parts on the under neath part of the machine. Where two parts are joined 35

NOTES

together, there will be a bushing joining them together.

Sometimes (here will be a small hole where you can apply a drop of oil. If there is not a small hole, just oil the joint (Figure 132). Remember never oil the motors or bells! Figure Oil

132 Oil

Oil

It is a good idea to make a cleaning and oiling

schedule for your sewing machine, just like mechanics do

for oil changes and tune ups for automobiles. Depending on the amount of sewing you do, you should mark on your calendar to do the regular cleaning and oiling every 3

months or every 6 months. This regular maintenance schedule will keep your machine running smoothly, in addition Lo keeping it out of the repair shop!

36

NOTES

SPECIFIC SEWING MACHINE TIMING

,015

-.040

0.4mm - 1.0mm

GENERAL NOTE Almost all machines are limed using the shuttle

hook point and the needle (see figure S-Xl Item A). measurements are approximate.

All

YOU have to make sure

your sewing machine shuttle hook poini enters the loop made by the upper thread during the straight stitching mode and also during the widest zigzag mode.

If, during

any of the above stitching modes, the hook doesn't enter the thread loop made by the upper thread, then you may have to change the distance between the needle eye and where the hook point centers the needle (up or down). Example, the distance may have to be adjusted to 0.6 or 0.8 mm's, according to how the manufacturer engineered

the

machine.

This timing

fact

applies regardless

of

whether your machine has a vertical or horizontal shuttle hook system. 37

NOTES

TIMING THESHUTTLE HOOK TO THE NEEDLE BAR Bach machines

manufacturer has differently

standards.

engineered

according

to

their sewing

their

particular

Therefore the adjustment and methods of

accomplishing the same task of timing the needle bar (needle) to the shuttle hook will be different, depending on

whether your machine has gears, bells or other methods of adjustment.

We will ivy to explain in detail the different

methods used. any

of ihe

If your machine configuration doesn't fit

following

examples,

study

the

examples

carefully, and using your sewing and mechanical ability, you'll be able to figure out which is closest to yours. Keep tlits fact in mind - as the needle starts the

UPWARD movement from the LOWEST point of its stroke, the needle thread forms a loop (see Figure P-l). U

is at this time that the shuttle hoop point has to enter the loop, which takes it around the bobbin case, forming the lock stitch of the lower and upper threads. (P-l)

\

38

EXAMPLE ONE: P-260/P-360 MACHINES

NOTI5S

Fig. P-2

To

adjust

the

first

step should

be to

turn

the

liandwhee! forward (counter clock-wise) towards you until the shultle hook is at the center of the needle (Fig. P-2) and the needle MUST be on its' upward movement.

If the

needle doesn't come all the way down to the shuttle hook and starts its' upward movement before the shuttle hook

gets to its' top dead center point, you may have pushed the needle bar up during a sewing project by hitting a button, zipper, etc., therefore knocking your machine out of time, '['his is the easiest type of liming to correct. Loosen either one or two set screws, that secure your needle bar, MOLDING your needle bar in its present

NOTES

position (axis). Let your needle bar down to a point where

the shuttle hook is approximately .02/.05 mm or 3/32" above the eye of"the needle. I3y HANI) turn your machine

in the forward motion (after threading your machine) just to be sure the shuttle hook picks up the thread and takes it around the shuttle case. Be sure to tighten the set screws securely so this will not happen again.

TIMING THE SHUTTLE HOOK TO THE NEEDLE

Some models can only be timed by adjusting the lower driving bell sprocket on its shaft (see Fig P-3 & P-4) Fig. P-3

40

Fig. 4

NOTES

Remove side panel on hand wheel side.

Two set

screws on the lower drive belt gear can be reached from this position. You may have to remove the switch box to get a clear shot at the drive belt gear. Alter gaining access to the gear, loosen the two screws on the drive belt gear. NOT!:: Make sure the needle is on its upward movement

(no more than 2.0 mm on its upward stroke). Turn the shuttle hook until the point of the hook has reached the center of the needle (see Fig. P-2). At this time make sure the needle and shuttle t\o not move - lighten the two set screws securely.

41

NOTES

ADJUSTING NEEDLE TO THE SHUTTLE HOOK EXAMPLE TWO/A: NECCHI STRAIGHT STITCH MACHINES

(A) Rotate hand wheel toward you (by hand) as if you were sewing (NOTE:

make sure your machine is

unplugged from the electrical outlet), and center the shuttle

hook behind Ihe needle (see Tig. N-l). Fig.N-J

The

point

or

the

shuttle

hook

should

be

approximately 2mm or 3/32" above the needle's eye. To adjust (he needle bar up or down to insure the correct distance above the needle's eye (Fig. N-2) loosen the set screw that holds the needle bar secure and adjust the needle bar to the above measurements. NOTE: Make sure the needle position doesn't rotate during this procedure, because the shuttle hook will not be able to enter the thread loop (see Tig. N-3-A&B).

42

Fig. N-2

Fig.N-3(A&B)

NOTKS

NOTES

CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE HOOK

The needle should be as close as possible to the

shuttle hook point, but MUST NOT touch each other (Fig. N-4).

The distance should be no more than 0.1 mm as

shown.

Fig. N-4

To adjust (he shuttle in or out to get the desired

results, loosen screw "A" (sec Figure N-5) just a little, making sure shuttle doesn't tuna on its axis, then lap lightly in or out at point "13" with a brass punch. Fig. N-5

44

NOTE:

Performing this adjustment may alter the

timing of your needle and shuttle hook (if shuttle rotates

leit or right). Check the timing adjustment (I7ig. N-2) and adjust if required by rotating the shuttle hook (Fig, N-5). Loosen screw "A" slightly and rotate shuttle hook to

obtain the desired results (Fig. N-2).

SHUTTLE

HOOK

ADJUSTMENT

IN

SHUTTLE

CARKIEK

Fig. N-6

If you're having problems with your thread breaking or hanging up in the bobbin area and you've checked all other areas, you may have to make an adjustment within

the shuttle hook/shuttle carrier mechanism. The shuttle area is one of the most important areas of your machine. This area MUST be free of lint and dirt.

All surfaces must be perfectly smooth, any rust, nicks, rough spots, etc., MUST be removed with a jewelers file and/or emery cloth.

NOTES

The shuttle hook (opposite end of the hook POINT) NOTES

and the shuttle carrier spring must measure 0.4 mm (l/32")(I''ig. N-6). If this space is larger than these measurements you will have an excess of noisy clattering.

If the space is too small, your thread will hang up and break or jam around the bobbin case.' This distance is factored in at the factory and cannot be adjusted except by lighlly bending the shuttle carrier (spring tip area), using a brass punch and tapping lightly with a hammer. NOTE: This should be done by an experienced technician.

THE PRESSER BAR AND ITS PURPOSE The main purpose of the presser bar is to apply different amounts of pressure on fabric from heavy material to lightweight material. If you are having problems maintaining a good straight uniform stitch, it could be the amount of pressure that is being applied by your presser bar. In general, the heavier the material the more pressure you will need to let the ^t^\ dog walk your fabric through

smoothly.

The thinner or lighter the

material, the less pressure you need.

If the pressure is too

much and you are using light weight and/or silky type material, it could cause Ihc feed dog to damage your

material and/or cause your stitches not to be uniform.

To adjust the pressure on the presser bar, and in turn, the fool, locate the thumb screw at the top of the

machine (Fig. N-7). Fig. N-7 Lll

, - B

By rotating the thumb screw clockwise (CW), you will increase the pressure, a counter clockwise (CCW) turn will decrease the pressure.

The correct height of the presser foot from the needle plate is 7mm (Fig. N-7 //15). To adjust this clearance, loosen screw (A) and adjust the presser bar through the guide (13) (Fig. N-7 //14). Secure screw (A) firmly when the correct adjustment is obtained. The distance between the presser bar lifting arm and the presser bar guide should be 0.5mm (Fig. N-7 U\3). NOTE: Be sure the needle bar does not rotate left or right during the adjustment process. The needle must be center of the presser foot and needle plate hole,

[f this is not

centered re-adjust to the center of both needle foot and needle plate hole.

DOG ADJUSTMENTS-

STRAIGHT STITCH MACHINE The presser foot must sit flat or level with the iced dog teeth surface.

If this is not the case with your

machine, your fabric will not ih&d properly under the presser foot.

Also the feed dog must have equal clearance

on both sides of the feed dog and needle plate. rotate the hand wheel

Slowly

in a counter clockwise (CCW)

direction (toward you), and check the clearance of the feed

dog and needle plate slot. (Fig. N-8). Fig. N-8 I

1

t

1i 47

NOTES

NOTES

Next, check to sec if the feed dog and the presser

foot are level with each oilier. Raise the foot and place a piece of thin paper on each of the four corners of the feed dog (one corner at a lime). Lei the foot clown and see if the paper pulls out equally on each corner. If not, one of two tilings must be wrong. First, the presser foot may be defective and needs to be replaced. Secondly, the feed dog may be worn out and needs to be replaced. ADJUSTING

THE

FEED

DOG

LEVEL

AND

EXCESSIVE CLEARANCES Fig N-9

The i"cQd dog must be parallel lo the needle plate slot (Fig N-8).

Most often you can make any adjustments

needed by loosening two screws (Fig. N-9 Item A) and adjust, accordingly.

After you have made the adjustments

securely tighten the screws again.

If this doesn't correct

your clearances, then, with the stitch lever or knob set for its longest stitch (Fig. N-10 Item A) the distance at (he

beginning travel of the feed dog above the needle plate should be 0.4mm.

NOTES

Fig.N-10

O.H . N^TAMsisT+^sM-Vs

0.4

•

—■—J

-4 0.1 T

To adjust the clearance, loosen screw (C) (Fig. N-9), turn the shaft (B/D) slowly to obtain the desired clearance. Securely tighten screw (C). The feed dog teeth projection above the needle plate should

be

0.8mm

(Fig.

N-10

Hem

C).

Rotate

the

handwheel in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction until the teed dog is at its highest position. Check the distance and adjust if required.

Loosen screw (E) (Fig. N-9) and

turn shaft (F) as necessary to obtain the proper clearance.

Securely tighten screw (E). Almost all the instructions given on the straight

stitch machine example above will generally apply to the zigzag sewing machines also.

The following exceptions

are noted.

NEEDLE/SHUTTLE CLEARANCE - ZIGZAG The only variation from the straight stitch sewing

machine and the zigzag machine in timing the needle and shuttle is the securing screw position (Fig. N-l 1 Item A). Go back to the beginning of example #2 and follow those

instructions to adjust the needle/shuttle timing.

49

NOTES

Fig. N-11

FREE-ARM SEWING MACHINES

Exceptions from the straight stitch machine to the free arm machines are noted in Fig. N-12. Fig. N-12

A small clamp "B" is secured onto shaft "A" (Tig. N-12) on the shuttle carrier.

Pins "C" and "D" are secured

to this small block with two screws. Pin "C" connects rod "E" which controls the axial run of the shuttle carrier when

50

sewing in the zig zag mode.

The bottom pin "D" carries

roller "F" while sliding inside fork "G", will not allow the shuttle carrier to turn around its axis. ADJUSTING NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE CLEARANCE

Loosen clamp screw "H" (Pig. N-12) just enough to move as close as possible but not touching.

Secure screw

"H" firmly.

51

NOTES

MACHINES WITH SLANTING SHUTTLE ROTARY HOOK EXAMPLE THREE:

SHUTTLE HOOK AND NEEDLE TIMING Place your sewing machine in the straight stitch sewing position. Turn

the hand wheel

by hand counter-clockwise

until the needle is at its lowest point.

Gently move the

hand wheel backward and forward to insure you have the

boUovn dead center.

As the needle starts its upward

movement, no move than 2.5 mm, the shuttle hook point

should be in the center of the needle. (Fig. N-13) Fig. N-13

The required adjustments will be as follows. Loosen screw "B" of gear "C" (be sure to keep the hand wheel

motionless). Rotate the shuttle hook until the shuttle point is centered on the needle (Fig. N-13, Item A). Tighten screw "B" securely.

52

Adjust the zigzag width control to its maximum position.

Turn the handwheel counter clockwise (CCW)

by hand, then place the needle position lever to the left position (L/M/R). Lower the needle to its lowest position.

When the needle starts its upward movement, the shuttle point should be centered on the needle.

The shuttle hook

point should center the needle approximately 0.4/6 mm

above the needle eye.

It" you need to adjust the shuttle

hook point (Fig. N-14), loosen screw "A" and adjust the needle bar up or down.

Secure screw "A" tightly before

proceeding.

Fig. N-14

53

NOTES

NOTES

Test the machine's ability to pick up thread by threading the machine and turning the hand wheel by hand (CCW) to insure the shuttle hook point enters the thread

loop.

Now move the needle back to the middle position

(L/M/K)

and

try

sewing

normally.

If

any

further

adjustments need to be made to fine tune the machine, go

back to the beginning and make further adjustments as needed, following the guidelines already given.

54

MACHINES WITH GEARS

NOTES

EXAMPLE FOUR:

TIMING THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE BAR TO CORRECT HEIGHT.

The needle bar height should be adjusted as follows. Rotate the hand wheel (CCW) toward you until the needle

is aV its dead bottom position.

The shuttle hook point

should be centered behind the needle. The position of the needle should be around .004" from the hook point and the

shuttle should be approximately 0.1mm above the needle

eye (Fig. S-l). NOTE:

If (he needle doesn't come all the

way down to the shuttle hook point, you've probably hit a

zipper, button, straight pin, etc. while sewing which pushed the needle bar up, causing your machine to be knocked out of time. HOOK

Fig. S-l

POINT

004 INCH

NEEDLE

Place ihe machine in the straight Sliieh position.

The upper timing mark on the needle bar will be aligned

NOTES

with the bottom edge of the needle bar bushing.

With the

needle at its BDC position, loosen the needle bar clamping screw then raise or lower the needle bar as needed.

Be

sure the needle bar doesn't rotate during the task. Tighten the needle bar screw tightly (Fig. S-2). Fig. S-2 ECCENTRIC

DRIVING ARM

HINGE PIN

CLAMPING SCREW

CLAMPING SCREWS

VIBRATING BRACKET

COLLAR SET SCREW

NEEDLE BAR

CLAMPING SCREW

UPPER TIMING

MARK

TIMING THE SHUTTLE HOOK

NOTES

Perform the previous (ask first (needle height) Install a new needle, remove the throat plate, bed slide reel

cover and bottom cover plate. Remove the feed dog so (he

point of the shuttle hook can be seen. (Do this only if you

cannot see the shuttle hook point).

Place the needle in the straight stitch position. Rotate the hand wheel counter clockwise (CCW) toward you until the timing mark on the needle bar is at the bottom of the needle bar bushing. The needle bar should be just starting on its upward movement, with the needle bar at its timing mark as staled above. The shuttle hook point should be in the center of the needle (Fig. S-3). NOTE: The distance should be approximately 0.4mm above the needle eye in order for the hook point to enter the thread loop created by the upper thread as it starts its upward movement. Fig. S-3 HOOK POINT

ALIGNED WITH NEEDLE

57

NOTES

If the hook doesn't center the needle, loosen the two set screws in the horizontal bevel gear (Fig. S-4) Fig. S-4

VERTICAL BEVEL GEAR

SET SCREWS

HORIZONTAL BEVEL CEAR

GEAR HUB SHOULD

HOT CONTACT FACE OF BUSHING

DO NOT let the needle bar move while loosening

the set screws. Rotate the vertical bevel gear until the shuttle hook point is centered behind the needle. Secure tightly the two screws on the horizontal beve! gear. At this point make sure both gears are meshed correctly without binding and the gear base is not touching the bushing face.

58

NOTES

MACHINES WITH BELT DRIVE ASSEMBLY EXAMPLE FIVE:

TIMING THE SHUTTLE HOOK TO THE NEEDLE

Place the needle in the center position. width to "O" position.

Place stitch

Install a new needle, size

18.

Rotate handwheel counter clockwise (CCW) toward you until the lower liming mark is aligned on needle bars' upward movement (Fig. S-5). Fig. S-5

Lower

T iming Mark

At this point the shuttle hook point should be at the middle of the needle approximately 0.4 mm above the needle eye. Be sure the timing mark doesn't move during this task.

NOTES

Fig. S-6

Loosen (he two set screws (Fig. S-6).

Rotate the

shuttle hook point until the point of the shuttle hook is centered behind the needle.

Press down on the shuttle as

you tighten the two set screws tightly. Check the shuttle hook for binding. The shuttle should run smoothly with no vertical movement. Replace all parts removed while performing this task.

Test sew on a fabric scrap to see that the machine is running smoothly and properly.

60

TIMING THE NEEDLE BAR TO SHUTTLE HOOK Fig. V-3

Timing the hook

The hook point at

*rf

neudle

Selling the needle bar height

NOTES

NOTES

Set the sewing machine for straight stitch sewing. Turn the hand wheel until the needle bottoms out and starts

its

upward

movement.

The shuttle

hook

should

be

centered above the eye of the needle (approximately .059") (Fig. V-3).

Loosen the needle bar set screw (the screw that

secures the needle bar).

Secure needle bar firmly so it

doesn't rotate while you adjust up or down to obtain the proper clearance between the eye of the needle and the shuttle hook point. Tighten the set screw.

Test sew on a fabric scrap to make sure the machine is sewing smoothly.

The following "Model Number" chart applies to the machines throughout the next section.

Compare your

model number to those in the chart to see if it applies to the writings in the "Example Seven" Bro. section.

MODEL NUMBERS GROUP A GROUP B GROUPC GROUPD groupj: GROUP F GROUP G M451

M751

X1/791 M791 M803

M461.471 M761.771 XL711

XX70Q

XL703

M865

M795

B604

B703

M875

M401 M601

B875

B401 B601

B606,6O7

B8O1

B803

B701.704

ADJUSTING NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT EXAMPLE SEVEN: BRO-M-1: Fig. B-l

®' i 01 V Group A.B.C.G. 0.4 — I. Omm

r

0

\J

Gioup E

GioapD.F.

Adjust the pattern selector knob to M (on model XL7O3, turn to No. 1). Set zigzag width to "5". Place the needle (L/M/R) to

the RIGHT position. (Free arm machines place ihe needle to the LEFT side. Turn the handwheel by hand to position the needle to the left or right, depending on which type

machine you have. Loosen the set screw on the needle bar (see item 2 on Fig. B-l).

Adjust the needle bar up or down so the

distance between the top of the needle eye and the shuttle

65

NOTES

NOTES

tip is from 0.5 to 1.0mm above the needle eye ((tern 3 Pig. B-l).

Secure the needle bar set screw (Item 2) firmly. Rotate (he hand wheel toward you counter clockwise

(CCW) by hand to verify that the shuttle hook tip enters the thread loop made by the upper thread when it descends into the shuttle area. Further adjustments may need to be

made following the above instructions. NOTE: Before starting this task, install a new needle and insure the needle

is all (he way up in the needle clamp and seated firmly

against the needle stop pin.

SHUTTLE HOOK POINT CLEARANCE -

ALL TRANSVERSE RACE MODELS

Adjust the zigzag width icver to "()" and the needle

position to »M" (item l Fig. B-2).

66

Loosen the two screws holding the gear box cover exposing the race way (Item 2 Fig. B-2).

Slightly loosen

the two screws on the shuttle drive shaft bevel gear (Item 3 Fig. B-2). Adjust the shuttle race (0.01 to 0.16mm) between the needle and shuttle hook point (Item 4 Fig. B-2). Insure

the needle doesn't hit the shuttle point.

Adjust the raceway so the notch of the raceway

comes (o the center of the needle (Item 5 Fig. B-2). TIMING SHUTTLE HOOK TO NEEDLE ALL TRANSVERSE RACE MODELS AND FREE ARM MODELS BRO-M Step A Fig. B-3 A/B

I 4 — 1.8mm : l.iiiu

-2 3mm : Oiuup I) I-

67

NOTES

NOTES

Adjust the zigzag width lever to "5" (Item 1 Fig.

B-3), and move the needle to the far left side of the needle slot (Item 3 Fig. B-3A)

Loosen the screw in the lower shaft crank just enough to adjust (Kern 2 Fig. B-3A)

Rotate the handwheel toward you (counter clock wise) and bring the needle to its lowest level. Adjust the

needle bar raise so the shuttle hook point intersects with (he needle when it is on its upward movement. Adjust the raise to 1.7 to 2.1 mm (Item 3 Fig. B-3A). Make this adjustment by turning the handwheel counter clockwise (towards you) while holding the shuttle hook in place. Secure the set screw firmly (Item 2 Fig. B-3A). BRO-M Step B

Adjust the zigzag width to "5" (Hem 1 Fig. B-3A).

(For Model XL703, adjust pattern indicator at cam #1 and put the needle in the for right position in the needle plate

slot (Item 4 Fig. B-3B)

Slightly loosen the rotary hook screw (Item 3 Fig

B-3B). Adjust the shuttle hook so the distance between the hook point and needle is set at 0.01 to 0.16 mm, by

moving it back and forth (Item 4 Fig. B-3B).

C>8

HEIGHT OK PKKSSEK BAR - ALL MODELS Fig. U-4

Adjust the presser bar lever to the up position (Item 1, Fig. B-4) Slightly loosen the presser bar set screw (Item 2 Fig. B-4) just enough so you can move the bar up or

down. NOTE: Hold the bar firmly; do not let the bar twist left or right. The foot must be parallel or in alignment with the feed dog.

Measure the distance between the bottom of the

presser foot and the needle plate surface (Item 3 Fig. B-4). The clearance should be 6.0 to 6.5 mm. Adjust this measurement accordingly.

Secure the set screw (Item 2 Fig B-4) firmly.

During this check, be sure the presser foot is installed correctly - all the way up before tightening the thumb screw that holds the presser foot in place. CAUTION: If 69

NOTES

i NOTES

your machine has a thread cutter on the presser bar, be careful that you don't slip and cut yourself during the adjustment of the needle bar.

ADJUSTMENT OF FEED CAM - ALL MODELS Fig. B-5

i The top cover must be removed to expose the feed cam in order to loosen the set screw (Item 1 Fig. B-5).

Adjusl the feed cam so the two marks on (he {ttf\ cam and upper shall align as per Item 2 Fig. B-5. screw firmly.

70

Secure the set

ADJUSTMENT OF THE VERTICAL FEED CAM ALL TRANSVERSE RACE MODELS AND

GROUP"D" Fig. B-6 A/B A

s,

Remove the bottom plate to expose the vertical (c cam, if your machine has a bottom plate.

Loosen Ihe

vertical feed cam set screws (2) just enough so the cam will move (Hem 1 Fig B-6A).

Rotate the handwheel toward you (counter clock wise) and bring the crank rod to

its lowest level (Item 2

Fig. B-6A). Adjust the vertical feed cam so the distance between

the feed cam and the shaft bushing is less than 0.3 mm insure that screw "A" and "C" are in alignment with each other - in a straight line across from each other (Item 3 Fig. B-6A). Secure set screw "B" firmly.

71

NOTES

NOTES

Alter you have adjusted the feed cam in Fig. B-6A. loosen the two screws "13" and "C" on the vertical {~qc<.\

cam (Item I Pig. B-6B). screws

("A11

and

"IV).

Check (he alignment of the two The

alignment should

indicated in the lower diagram in Fig. B-6B.

be as

Secure the

set screws "B" and "C" firmly.

ADJUSTING THE HEIGHT OF THE FEED DOG ALL MODELS

ig. B-7

Rotate the handwheel towards you (counter clock

wise) and bring the needle to its highest position (Item 1 Fig. 13-7).

Set the feed dog to its highest level "UP" position (this is normally located at the right bottom side of the machine) (Item 2 Fig. B-7).

72

Loosen

the guide ring set screw (on

Free arm

machines it is located on the drop feed adjusting arm). Loosen only enough to make the adjustment. Adjust

the GUIDE

RING

to

obtain

the

correct

distance between the needle plate and the l"ccd dog top of teeth (0.8 to 1.0 mm). Item 4 upper right diagram.

For free-arm machines adjust the drop ^et\ adjusting arm as indicated in Item 3 and 4 Fig. B-7.

SHUTTLE DRIVER SHAFT AND RACEWAY CLEARANCE SEPARATION -

ALL MODELS EXCEPT FREE-ARM Fig. B-8

0.2 mm

Remove the gear box cover and loosen the two set

screws on collar for the driver shaft (Item 1 Fig. B-8).

t oosen the screws just enough to make any adjustments.

73

NOTES

NOTES

The clearance should be very dose, per diagram in Item 2. Set both distances at 0.0 mm.

Next, loosen the two set screws on the shuttle driver

shaft BEVEL GEAR (Item 3 Fig. 13-8), Adjust the driver shaft gear to fa snugly, but not loo tight, to the lower shaft gear (Item 4 Fig. B-8).

Next loosen the set screw on the shuttle driver shaft bushing (item 5) and adjust the bushing at 0.2 mm (Item 6), so Ihe distance between the bushing and driver shaft gear will be correct. Insure that all set screws are

tightened firmly. Now check the operation of the machine to insure there is no binding and i( operates smoothly Rotate (he handwheei by hand at the beginning as you

check the operation of the machine.

ZIGZAG WIDTH ADJUSTMENT -

ALIGNMENT OF HOLES, MAXIMUM DISTANCE - ALL MODELS

(A) Set needle position "I," and "M", zigzag width

"O" left and right holes. (B) Set needle position "M", zigzag width to "5", left and right holes.

Loosen the lock nut, while holding the adjusting screw in place (Item

I, Fig. B-9), using an off-set box

wrench and a screw driver to hold the adjusting screw steady while loosening the lock nut (Item 2). On free-arm machines you will need to remove the base plate.

Now you can rotate the adjusting screw to obtain the

correct stitching as per example "O" in the lower left diagram.

ZIGZAG SATIN STITCH SEAMS ALL MODELS

Fig. B-10

75

NOTKS

NOTES

Set stitch length to "Fine" and zigzag width to "5" (Hem I Tig. B-10). Use a box wrench to loosen the lock nut, while holding the adjusting screw with a screw driver. Don't let the adjusting screw move during the loosening of the lock nut (Hem 2 & 3 Fig. B-10).

.

At this lime adjust the screw left or right to obtain the correct satin stitching forward or backwards. Fine tune until the stitching is correct.

FEED REGULATOR GROOVED CAM ADJUSTMENT ALL MODELS Fig. B-M

Loosen the screw on bushing (Item 1 Fig. B-Il). Adjust the stitch

length

to "0"

(Item

2).

Rotate the

grooved cam (Item 3) so a clearance of "0" is between the

regulator adjusting plate and the direction control

7C>

stud. Secure the screw (Item 1) (Irmly. Test sew and make any line tuning as per above instructions. ADJUSTMENT TO CENTER NEEDLE IN NEEDLE PLATE-ALL MODELS Fig.B-12

Set the needle position to middle (M) (Item 1 Fig. B-12).

Adjust the zigzag width lever to "0" and use the

straight stitch needle plate (Item 2). Loosen the eccentric stud set screw slightly - just

enough to allow movement. eccentric stud (Item

Now you can adjust the

3) to set (he needle to its center

position in the straight stitch needle plate (Item 4). Secure ihe set screw (Item 3) firmly.

Rotate the handwheel by

hand to confirm the needle is correctly centered.

NOTU:

Before starling this task, always install a new needle and check to verify that the needle is not bent.

77

NOTES

TROUBLE

SHOOTING

CHART

FOR

EXAMPLE

SEVEN MACHINES:

Various problems will be listed with possible rensons for the problem as well as indicating which of the procedures detailed earlier in this section can be used to solve the problems.

IMPROPER TIMING OF NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE HOOK

See Figures B -1 & 2 and detailed instructions for correction.

MATERIAL NOT FEEDING

A.

Improper positioning of needle plate- see

instruction book "to change needle plate" section for ail

models.

B. Not enough pressure on presser foot - see Fig. B-4 and previously discussed instructions for correction. C. Improper setting of feed cam - See Fig. B-5 D. Improper positioning of vertical feed cam - See

Fig. B-6 and detailed instructions. E. Improper height of feed dog - See Fig. B-7.

NEEDLE KEEPS BREAKING

A. Incorrect needle position - See instruction book "to change the needle" section for all models. B. Wrong clearance between needle and shuttle

hook - See Fig. B-2 and B-3 A&B for correcting problem. SLOW RUNNING MACHINE

A-

Machine dry of oil - See instruction book

Oiling your machine" section - all models.

B. Lint and thread build-up in shuttle and feed dog area - See instruction book "Cleaning the shuttle hook area and your feed dog area" section - all models.

78

NOTES

NOISY MACHINE

A.

Machine dry of oil - Oil the machine per your

instruction book - all models. B.

Shuttle shaft not set right - See Fig. B-8 for

instructions on how to correct problem.

ZIGZAG WIDTH TOO WIDE

A. Zigzag width setting is adjusted improperly - See Tig. B-9 for instructions on how to correct the problem. SEAMS UNEVEN

A.

Grooved cam feed regulator not set properly -

See Fig. B-10 for instructions to correct the problem. B. Feed regulator not set properly - See Fig. B-l 1. NEEDLE ALIGNMENT WITH NEEDLE SLOT NOT SET RIGHT

A.

Needle

not

centered

-

See

Fig.

B-l2

for

instructions to correct the problem. LOWER THREAD BREAKS

A. Bobbin lias a nick or is bent - Change bobbins.

B.

Bobbin spring has a nick or is scratched where

ihread pulls througii - Change the bobbin case, or replace the spring where the thread pulls under.

C.

Bobbin case tension too tight - Adjust screw

counter clockwise to relieve

pressure on thread.

See

instruction book under "adjusting lower tension" section. D. Shuttle hook point area has a nick or rough spot -

Change out shuttle hook unit or remove scratch or nick.

NOTES

UPPER THREAD BREAKS

A.

Nick or scratch on shuttle hook - Change shuttle

or remove nick.

B. Upper thread tension too tight - Adjust tension to lower number and check to see if some thread has broken off between the tension discs. C.

Needle size too small for thread or needle hole

has a sharp edge - Change needle to new size. D.

Needle bent or has a blunt point - Change to a

new needle.

E.

Machine lias been threaded wrong - Check your

manual for proper threading procedure.

F. Needle plate incorrect or damaged at point where

needle goes through the hole - Change needle plate.

HINTS FOR THE SEWER/CRAFTER 1.

Always turn the hand wheel of your sewing machine toward you, never

turn it away from you once the machine has been threaded. Also never run a threaded sewing machine unless Ihere is a piece of fabric under the presser fool, this is probably ihe easiest way to jam the machine, break needles and throw the machine out of timing!

To eliminate the possibility of a child doing damage to your machine, always unplug it after finishing for the day. 2.

Before beginning to sew, lay both threads under and toward the back of

the presser foot. The correct way of bring the bobbin thread up after changing the bobbin is as follows (figure Figure

134):

134

A)

While holding the top ihread with the left hand, turn the handwheel with the right hand until the needle is all the way down into the bobbin area.

B)

Keep holding the thread and rotating the handwheel, bring the needle up to the highest point. As the needle comes up, a loop of

bobbin thread will come up with it. Pull on the top ihread to draw up more of the bobbin thread.

C)

Turn loose of the top thread, and pull on the loop of the bobbin Ihread to bring up the free end of the bobbin Ihread.

D)

Pass both the top and bobbin threads under the presser Foot and take them back toward the right. Both Ihread ends should be at least 4" long to prevent them from being pulled into the bobbin and

jamming as you begin sewing.

3.

When beginning or ending a seam, make sure the take-up lever is in iis

highest position.

81

4.

Put a drop of oil into the hook/shuttle area regularly.

5. Alxnil once every six months spray all moving parts with a rust preven tive fluid (like WD-40). This is done lo prevent the buildup of a light trace of rust on the metal surfaces. (CAUTION: Do not spray directly into the motor.) 6.

Be sure that the needle is in the center position when straight stitching.

Never straight stitch with the needle in the left or right positions (an exception to this is when using a zipper foot). 7.

It will save a great deal of "total working time" on a project if you will take

care of the thread ends as each bit of stitching is completed. If you fail to do this, it will lake extra time when the project is finished lo trace out each loose hanging piece of thread in order lo clip it. If you just leave the loose pieces of thread hanging, it will detract from the overall professional look of the garment.

8.

In some types of fabric, such as chiffon, you may find Ihc needle will drag

the fabric down into the needle hole when you begin to sew. Make sure you are using

a fine needle, have the tensions set properly, and if the problem still exists, place a piece of gummed tape over the needle hole in the throat plate of the machine. The tape will prevent the fabric from being "pulled" down, and can be removed easily later.

9. Back-slilching at the end of a line of machine stitching firmly fastens the end, but sometimes can cause puckering of the fabric. To prevent this, hold the fabric taut as you continue to operate the machine, taking several stitches in the same spot in the fabric. These several stitches will secure the thread, but use your own judgement in using this method, as you could cause damage to very fine lightweight fabrics. 10.

Hinged presscr feet on sewing machines require different handling from

rigid ones because the pressure of the foot is less evenly distributed throughout its entire length. The threads have a tendency to tangle at the beginning of the stitching and the machine may stall on the tangled threads. Hold the loose thread ends gently with the right hand as you begin stitching. If the threads are slightly taut, they cannot tangle or be pulled down into the bobbin area to cause a jam.

11.

To protect your sewing machine while it is not in use, you should place

a piece of fabric under the prcsscr fixrt and lower the foot onto it. Also, be sure to cover

the machine, as any dust settling in and around the moving parts can cause sewing 82

problems later on.

Never oil your sewing machine without first cleaning it as well as you

can, removing all the dust, lint, and pieces of thread from the bobbin area and throat

plate area.

13.

There are three main points to be aware of each time the sewing machine

is used: 1) Make sure die take-up lever is at its highest point when stitching is started and when the work is being removed from the machine. 2) Always drop the presser foot before changing the tension on the upper thread (if the presser foot is in the up position, you can turn the dial all day long, and the tension won't change!) 3) When winding the bobbin, always thread the loose end of the thread through the hole in (he side of the bobbin. If this loose thread end is held (Irmly, it will break off, leaving a smoothly wound supply of thread in your bobbin. 14.

The selection of your thread should be based on the type of fabric you are

using. The thread should blend with the fabric in color, fiber and size - refer to the fabric/thread/needle chart for assistance.

15.

The selection of your needle is very important. The needle should be fine

enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with large puncture holes, but still be heavy enough to pierce the fabric without bending. Remember, also, that the eye of the needle must be big enough for the thread to pass through freely, too fine a needle

will case the thread lo fray. (Refer to the fabric/threadyneedle/stitch length sizes.)

83

FABRICWIRE'AD/NEEDLE COMPATIBLES The size of the needle and thread you should use depends upon the size of the

fabric yarns in ihc fabric, Ihe finer the yarns, the finer both Ihe needle and thread need to be.

Needle types related to fabric structure - sharp point (regular) for woven's; ball point for knits, and wedgepohu for leather and vinyl. Figure 135 indicates the differences in appearance of the three types of needles. Figure

135

Regular sharp needle

A.

Ball-point

needle

Wedge-point

needle

The regular sharp point needle is ideal for all woven fabrics because it

helps to produce an even stitching and causes a minimum of fabric puckering. This needle is not recommended for knits, as it has a tendency to "cut" yarns and cause skipped stitches. This needle comes in a wide range of sizes from the finest size 9 to a heavy size 18. There are also the twin needle versions of the sharp point designed for fancy lop stitching. B.

The ball point needle is specifically designed for knit and elastic fabrics.

This needle pushes between the fabric yarns rather than "cutting through" the yarns. This needle comes in sizes 9 to 16. The larger the needle size, the more rounded the needle point is.

C.

The wedge point needle, which is designed for leather and vinyl, easily

pierces these fabrics to make a hole that will close back upon itself. This eliminates unattractive holes in the garment, and also reduces the risk of the stitches tearing the

fabric. The wedge point needle comes in sizes 11 to 18; size 11 is designed for soft pliable leathers, while size 18 is suitable for heavy or multiple layers of leather. Thread type is chosen for iLs compatibility with the fabric's structure and fiber content as well as the type of project being worked on. The following eharl shows the

various types oi' thread and its usage. Where si/e number apply, the higher the number, the finer the thread; the median size is 50. Where letters indicate the si/e, A is fine and D is heavy. 84

THREAD Basting

FIBERS AND USAGE

Cotton: A loosely twisted thread used for hand basting. Loose twist makes it easy to break for quick removal from the garment. Available only in white - safest because there is no dye to rub off on fabric.

Button ami

Cotton; cotton-wrapped polyester: Tough, thick thread (size

carpet

16) used for hand-sewing jobs requiring super thread strength. Thread usually has "glazed" finish that makes it easier to slip through heavy fabric.

Darning

Cotton: A very fine thread used for darning and mending.

cotton

Strands can be separated, if desired, for work requiring even finer thread.

Elastic

Nylon/cotlon-wrapped rubber; A thick, very stretchy thread

used for shirring on sewing machine. Elastic thread h wound on bobbin only.

Embroidery

Cotton; rayon: Six thread strands twisted loosely together,

11 OSS

made for decorative hand work. Strands can be separated for very fine work.

Ext ra-fine

Cotton; polyester; cotton-wrapped polyester: Thread (ap proximately size 60) used for lingerie or other work requiring a fine thread.

General

Cotton: A medium thickness (size 50) is available in a wide range

purpose

of colors (other sizes made in black and while only). Used for machine and hand sewing on light- and medium-weight cottons, rayons, and linens. Cotton thread is usually mercerized, a finishing process that makes it smooth and lustrous, also helps it to take dye better. The lack of give in cotton thread makes it an unwise choice for knits or other stretchy fabrics, as the stitches tend to pop.

Silk: A fine (size A), strong thread for hand and machine sewing on silk and wool, its fineness makes it ideal for basting all fabric 85

THREAD

FIBERS AND USAGE

General

types, as it does not leave holes from stitching or imprints after

purpose

pressing. Because of its elasticity, silk, is also suitable for sew-

(con't)

ing any type of knit. Recommended for tailoring because it can be molded along with the fabric in shaped areas.

Nylon: A fine (size A), strong thread for hand and machine sewing on light to medium-weight synthetics. Especially suited to nylon tricot.

Polyester: An all-purpose weight (approximately size 50), suitable for hand and machine sewing on most fabrics, but

particularly recommended for woven synthetics., also for knits and other stretch fabrics of any fiber. Most polyester threads have a wax or silicone finish to help them slip through fabric

with a minimum o( friction. Cotton-wrapped polyester: An all-purpose weight (approxi mately size 50) for hand and machine sewing on knits or wovens, of synthetic or natural fibers, or blends. Polyester core

gives this thread strength and elasticity; cotton wrapping, a tough, heat-resistant surface.

Heavy-duty

Cotton; polyester; cotton-wrapped polyester: Coarse thread (approximately size 40) used where extra strength is required

for hand or machine sewing of heavy vinyl, coating, or uphol stery fabrics. Metallic

Metallized synthetic: Shiny silver or gold-colored thread,

used for decorative stitching by hand or machine. Quilling

Cotton: "Glazed" thread (size 40) used for hand or machine quilting.

Silk twist

Silk: Coarse thread (size D) used for topstitching and hand

worked buttonholes, also for decorative hand sewing and sew ing on buttons. 86

When put all together, the fabric type, thread size, needle size, and stitch length all play a very important part in completing the sewing or craft project properly. The following chart will help you make your choices easily when you start out on your next project.

FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH CHART

FABRICS Delicate: Net, chiffon, silk, voile, fine lace, organdy.

THREAD SIZES

NKEOLE SIZES

STITCH LENGTH

Fine mercerized

9

15 to 20

i 1

12 to 15

SETTING

"A" silk Synthetic

Lightweight: batiste, synthetic sheers

50 mercerized

paper taffeta, silk, chiffon, velvet, stretch fabric, tricot,

"A" silk

(8 to 10 for

Synthetic

plastic)

plastic film.

Medium weight: Gingham, chambray

50 mercerized

pique, poplin, muslin, linen,

14

12 to 15

16

10 to 12

18

8 to 10

18

6 to 12

"A" silk

chintz, double knit, jersey,

60 cotton

flannel, wool crepe, silk, fine

Synthetic

corduroy, velveteen, satin, raw silk, wool suiting, drapery fabrics, stretch fabric

Medium heavy: Denim, sail cloth,

Heavy-duty mercerized

gabardine, tweed, heavy suit-

"A" silk

ing, coalings, slrelch fabric,

40 to 60 cotton

drapery fabrics. Heavy: Overcoatings, dungaree,

Synthetic Heavy-duty mercerized

ticking, canvas, upholstery

24 to 50 cotton

fabrics.

All weights: Decorative top stitching

BD* silkf (buttonhole twist)

\ use wiifi 50 mercerized or "A" silk in twhhin.

87

The advantages of using silk thread for sewing "drycleanable" fabrics include its strength, elasticity, smooth finish and freedom from tangling. The strength and elasticity makes for longer wear and less popping of seams at points of strain.

SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENTS

1.

ZIPPER FOOT - this foot is designed so that you can stitch very close to

a raised edge like a zipper, or on cording. 2.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT - this foot is designed to stitch an invisible

zipper. This foot is usually adaptable to both the zipper and sewing machine style by means of plastic parts, ("this is usually purchased separately from a notions supply department).

3.

HEMMING FOOT - This foot is designed to form and stitch a perfect

hem without basting or pressing in advance. U makes the small "shirt tail" type of hem. It is also used to attach ruffles, lace, or any decorative trim.

4.

GATHERING FOOT-This foot is designed to lock uniform fullness into

each stitch. It is to be used for shirring and gathering.

5.

ROLLER FOOT - This fool is designed to feed hard-to-handle fabrics

like nylon or vinyl without slipping. 6.

BUTTON FOOT- This foot is designed to hold a 2 or 4-hole button firmly

for zigzag or automatic stitching to secure it to the garment.

7.

BINDER FOOT - This foot is designed to apply bias binding to an

unfinished edge without pinning or basting in advance.

89

FABRIC CONVERSION CHART Because space on the pattern envelope does not permit the inclusion of all fabric widths, those listed arc for Ihc fabric types most suited to the design. If you plan to

purchase fabric in a width that is nol included, consult the conversion chart below for the approximate amount needed.

(You might want to make a photocopy of this

conversion chart lo carry in your purse to have handy when you purchase fabric.) Fabric requirements are carefully calculated by experts to be economical yet adequate. IZxccpt when allowance must bo made for special fabric, such as a plaid, or for involved alterations, there is no need to buy more than is specified.

FABRIC WIDTHS 35-36"

39"

41"

44-45"

50"

52-54"

58-60"

66"

1 3/4

I 1/2

1 1/2

1 3/8

1 i/4

1 1/8

1

7/8

2

13/4

1 3/4

\ 5/8

\ 1/2

\ 3/8

\ W4

\ 1/8

2 1/4

2

2

1 3/4

I 5/8

I 1/2

1 3/8

I 1/4

2 1/2

2 1/4

2 1/4

2 1/8

1 3/4

1 3/4

1 5/8

I 1/2

g 2 7/8 < 3 1/8

2 1/2 2 3/4

2 1/2 2 3/4

2 1/4 2 1/2

2 2 1/4

\ 7/8 2

1 3/4 I 7/8

i 5/8 1 3/4

2 3 3/8 £33/4 4 1/4 4 1/2 4 3/4 5

3 3 1/4 3 1/2 3 3/4 4 41/4

2 7/8 3 1/8 3 3/8 3 5/8 3 7/8 4 1/8

2 3/4 27/8 3 1/8 3 3/8 3 5/8 3 7/8

2 2 2 3 3 3

2 2 2 2 2 3

3/8 5/8 3/4 1/4 3/8

1/42 3/8 2 5/8 2 3/4 2 7/8 2 1/8 2

1/4 3/8 5/8 3/4 7/8

1 7/8 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 3/4

Add additional 1/4 yard lor: large difference in fabric widths; one-directional fabrics; styles with sleeves cut in one piece with body of garment.

EXAMPLE: If you found some very nice fabric that you want to use for a specific pattern - the fabric is 60" wide and the pattern yardages only go up lo 45" wide on the pattern package, you could be purchasing loo much fabric unless you consult this

conversion chart. If the pattern package says you need 1 3/4 yards of 36" wide fabric, you can readily see that if you have 60" wide fabric, you'd need only I yard.

90

The Sewing Room

N

O

T

E

92

S

THE SEWING ROOM Doctors, dentists, architects, and artists have special tools for special purposes. And so should the home sewer and the seamstress who makes a living doing sewing

for others. Your work will be much easier and more satisfying when you have the needed assortment of needles, thimbles, scissors, measuring guides, hem tape, chalk,

etc. You should have one "pin" cushion holding only a graded assortment of needles while another holds the dressmaker pins, as well as "clipper" scissors to clip threads

as you sew and proper shears for cutting heavy fabrics and others for cutting lighter fabrics.

While the sewing "accessory" listing on the next several pages does not include every item you may want and need in your sewing room, it will give you general

information on a variety of sewing notions available. Probably every project you work on, whether a garment or craft item, will

include some hand sewing as well as machine sewing. The proper hand sewing needle

is important to the overall workmanship of your project. Following is a listing of the various types of hand sewing needles and their general purpose. t'OriUN DAHNfcR

D ^

\CALYX

TAF ESTH y

'".■ — ■

".:

A. SHARPS (sizes 1-12) are the most commonly used hand sewing needles. They are medium length, have a round eye and are suitable for almost all fabric weights.

B. BETWEENS (sizes I-12) are also known as "quilling0 needles. Because they are shorter in length, using them will enable you to take fine stitches in heavy

fabric. 93

C. MILLINERS (sizes 3/0-12) are the longer needles In the group and work very well for basting.

D. DARNERS (sizes 1-9) are designed for darning with fine cotton or wool. E. CALYX-EYES (sizes 4-8) arc similar to sharps except that the thread is pulled into a slot rather than threaded through the eye. F. TAPESTRY needles (sizes 13-26) are heavy and have blunt points. These needles are used mainly for needlepoint and tapestry work. They can also serve the purpose of a bodkin. Of course, there arc many other types of needles (long, thin beading needles, curved upholstery needles, large eyed yarn darners, medium length, long eyed crewels

For embroidery, etc.), but you can readily see that what we have pictured will give you a big variety for most of the projects you'll be doing. Just as there are certain sewing machine needles designed for particular fabrics, the same thing is true with hand sewing needles. The following chart will give you the thread and needle sizes to use for various types of hand sewing. Embroidery

Fastenings

Embroidery floss,

Yarn darner, embroidery,

Silk D, yarn

sharps

Cotton, synthetics,

Embroidery, sharps,

Silk D, button and

betweens

carpet (for heavy fastenings) Gathering and

Cotton, synthetics,

Embroidery, sharps,

shining

elastic, Silk A

betweens

Quilting

Quilting or other

Betweens

thread, depending on the effect desired

Top-siitching

Betweens, sharps

Cotton, synthetics, Silk A, or Silk D 94

A suggestion lor threading hand sewing needles easily is u» hold ihe needle toward a white or light colored surface so that the light shines through the needle eye U you do this, you will find it easier to push the thread toward the needle rather than

moving (he needle toward the thread.

If you need to sew on a button, but the only matching thread you have is a fine

type of thread, you can make the fine thread strong by drawing it across beeswax doubling it, then roll it between the palms of your hands to form a single, twisted thread If you need extra heavy thread, simply double tin's twisted thread to form a four-niv

thread.

* J

SCISSORS

A. BENT HANDLE DRESSMAKER SHEARS are best for pattern cutting.

The angle of the lower blade lets the fabric be flat. Dressmaker shears are made in 6" to 12" lengths; however the 7" and 8" are the most widely used. B. SEWING SCISSORS are grouped in with the "miscellaneous" scissors to be used as general all-purpose sewing room cutting - come in 5" and 6" lengths.

C. BUTTONHOLE SCISSORS, just like the name, are 4 1/2" long, and are used

to cut buttonholes.

95

D. SEWING MACHINE EMBROIDERY SCISSORS make cutting and clip ping easy when you're doing sewing machine embroidery. E-F. HEAVY DUTY INDUSTRIAL SERRATED BENTTRIMMERS, shown in 8" and 10" lengths come in handy if you're doing sewing with denims, canvas, etc. G. PINKING SHEARS come right and left handed, as most scissors do. Also available are "scalloping" shears. Both are used on fabrics that may ravel, so you can

make zig zag ravcl-rcsislant edges. These are also used for decorative edges.

H THREAD CLIPS are one of the most widely used and favored scissors in the sewing room. Use them for clipping threads at the beginning and ends of seams as you're sewing, when changing colors, etc.

L HAND EMBROIDERY SCISSORS are designed for use in land embroidery projects.

Sffilv" wriL °KnO* ^ tHe nOti°nS Usted on these Pages Pensacola Fl w«« Sarah's Sewing Supplies, 7267 Mobile Hwy., tensacola, FL 32526 and request a free notions catalog. 96

MEASURING DEVICES

Ti

T—-

mkf

r EZY-HEM GAUGE

\

D620

V D691

■ MM

*

MB

A. SEE-THRU DRESSMAKER RULER - 6" clear plastic with parallel slots for marking bias strips, etc.

B. FRENCH CURVE - flexible plastic for altering patterns. C. FASHION RULER - four rulers in one; cut out slot, hip curves, French curve and straight edge, with instructions. MINI-FASHION RULER also available. D. ADJUST-A-DART - for adjusting bust darts on store bought patterns to personal cup size. E. SEWING GUAGE-6" aluminum.

F. TAILORETTE - 6" plastic with chalk for marking. 97

G. VUE-THRU DRESSMAKER GAUGE - 6 inch clear plastic with one straight edge and one with scallops.

H. EZY-HEM GAUGE - aluminum, for pressing up hems. I. TAPE MEASURE - 60" in length

J. T-SQUARE - 12" ruler with parallel cutout slots; perfect for pattern making and adjusting commercial patterns.

K. CURVED RULER - used in pattern making for making hip line curves, waistline curves, and armhole to waist curves.

RHM>ERSITH READERS

MARKING DEVICES Pin

Chalk

lti^nrt

E

A

OOOQQO Chalk

!■■( 111

Chalk

sharpener

B B

Chalk

"Sew Handy" Needle Grlpper

Holder

Chalk

Insert

push needle through

pull needle out

A, TAILOR TACKER transfers construction markings to both sides of fabric in one lime saving operation. Comes with 10 pieces of chalk. 98

B. TAILOR CHALK WITH HOLDER is a plastic case with white chalk,

sharpener and brush. Colored chalk refills are also available. C. TAILOR CHALK PENCIL comes as a unit with extra refills of colored chalk, or regular chalk pencils with a brush end are available. D. TRACING WHEELS are used with dressmaker's tracing paper to transfer pattern markings to fabric. Two choices are available - serrated edge wheel or a smooth edged wheel.

E-F-G. SEAM RIPPERS come several ways, the DELUXE (E) is hardened

steel with safety ball and clear cap. the COMPACT (F) is smaller for use in more delicate sewing areas, and the RIPPER/THREADER (G) has a seam ripper at one end and a needle threader at the other end.

H-I-J. NEEDLE THREADERS also come in various styles. The needle threader WITH MAGNIFIER (H) has a wire threader. Regular threaders for hand or

machine needles come 3 to a package, and YARN THREADERS for yarn and embroidery floss, which come 2 to a package.

K. NEEDLE GRIPPER is among the handiest tools to have if you work a lot with heavy fabrics. The needle gripper helps to get the needle pushed through and then helps you pull the needle out of the fabric.

NOTE:

locally

If

Pensacola,

you

write

cannot

to

32526

find

Sarah's

the

Sewing

and request

a

Supplies,

free

notions

7267

Mobile

catalog.

Hwy.,

MISCELLANEOUS NOTIONS

B

A. BEESWAX & HOLDER- reduces static, tangling and knotting. Strengthens thread. Plastic holder keeps wax and fingers clean.

B. POINT TURNER/BUITON GAUGE - for pushing out corners of collars. BuUon gauge for making various heights of buttons.

C. AWL - used for punching holes in leather, etc. Comes with a protective sheath.

D. LOOP TURNER - latch hook holds and turns bias tubing, 10" long. E. CLAMP TYPE BODKIN for inserting elastic, ribbon and drawstrings. F.

ROD TYPE BODKIN with ball end for turning things inside out and

threading.

G-H. PIN CUSHIONS - wrist type to keep pins handy, and the regular tomato type with strawberry emery for sharpening needles.

I. SEWING MACHINE COVER - a most important item to keep dust away

from the machine when it's not in use. J-K. LINT BRUSHES - also very important for use in keeping the machine clean and free from lint. 100

L. MAGNETIC SEAM GUIDE - insures a uniform seam width and fits all types of machines. M. "SNAG NAB-IT" - a small latch hook that repairs snags and pulls in knits,

etc. You won't want to be without this repair tool!

PIN CATCHFP Imioiihc

p i it c ii i m i iT? X m

SWISS MADE IRIS SUPER FINE PINS WON'T j LEAVE HOLES

The use of proper pins for your sewing and craft projects is as important as using the right needles and thread. We will not attempt to discuss every pin on the market, but only a few of the most popular ones.

A. IBC SILK PINS are 1 I/41 longand are super fine - finer than any other silk pin. Leaves no snags, leaves no holes. B. IBC GLASS HEAD PINS are I 3/8" long and also super fine. The ultimate

smooth silk pin, even longer than usual, glass head makes them easy to sec. 101

C IBC ALL PURPOSE PINS are 1 1/2" long, are smooth and Tine. These can

be used on even fine knits - weave the extra long pins into the fabric and they won't fall out. Can also be used on Ultra Suede as they won't leave holes.

D. IBC QUILTING PINS are 1 3/4" long and fine. These are. the same smooth pin as the all purpose pin only 1/4" longer for bulky quilting projects. The yellow head makes them easy to see.

E. IRIS SUPER F;INE PINS are Swiss made and are extra fine. These pins are I 1/4" long and won't leave holes; won't bend. F. PIN CATCHER - very important in keeping track of your pins while sewing.

This magnetic "pincushion" keeps track of your pins so you can sew faster, better, and lets you keep your eyes on your work.

G. IRONING BOARD ORGANIZER KIT - slay organized as you leave the

sewing machine and go to the ironing board. The compact organizer keeps scissors, rulers and notions at your fingertips, but never in your way.

102

IRONING ACCESSORIES A

PRESS-A-MAGIC Multi-Purpose Measuring Guide

MEASURING GUIDE IL WOttE CIUM!» HXHI

PRESS

BLOCK ■■

,

<

blockimu. Bf*inQ *mo PMtssmu cloih

m

t

,:-l

:::

I

.

r A. PRESS-A-MAGIC table top measuring guide - 20" X 59", 2 color screen

printed measuring guide is used for fast and easy sewing, blocking, hemming, bias strips, quilting and more.

B.

PRESS-A-MAGIC ironing board cover- true bias guideline, hemming

guidelines, same measuring lines as "table top" in ironing board cover form.

C. PRESS 'N1 BLOCK - ironing board surface measures 10" X 24 1/2"; fits Elna press, Bernette press, Suprapress, Singer press, Huskypress and other small press and

ironing boards. Drawstring for snug fit. D. SURE BLOCK - 44" X 62" 100% heavy cotton working surface with 1" square grid line measurements. Used for blocking, needlework, knitting, quilting,

sewing, pinning, pattern layout, anchoring braiding and macrame, craftwork, and much more.

103

NOTES

104

SEWING MACHINE REPAIR AS A HOME BUSINESS

You can make $2,000 or more per month doing sewing machine repair. much or as litlle time as you want - work the hours you want. whenever you choose.

Spend as

Take a day off

YOU are the boss; this is YOUR business.

You can start

off small, just working evenings and weekends or get aggressive and turn sewing

machine repair into a full time, very lucrative business - the choice is yours. Sewing machine repair can be done with very little money up front. informing

By simply

friends thai own sewing machines that you are able to work on their

machine will get your business started.

Have a flyer made up announcing your

new business and go around to dry cleaners, big department stores, hospitals, etc. and let them know about your business.

Virtually anyone can succeed in this

business If they are willing to pul genuine effort into it.

The sewing machine

repair market has never been stronger than it is today!

This portion of the Sewing Machine Repair as a Home Business Manual contains

detailed information on how to start up your business, how to market yourself, pricing guidelines, information on bookkeeping, taxes, advertising and much

more.

A person dealing in the sewing machine repair business who approaches

their work in a serious and businesslike manner will do very well. The old saying "You are what you think you are" is definitely true.

If you have confidence in

yourself (and if you don't, you need to start giving yourself some pep talks) and keep an optimistic attitude and outlook on the business and life in general, you will find that the sky is the limit.

Train yourself, beginning right now, to think

more positively about what you are able to do, tell yourself (hat nothing is going 105

to stop you from reaching your goals (by the way - have you made some goals?) and believe in yourself and what you are doing. business!

106

You will be a success in this

STARTING YOUR BUSINESS

There are three types of business organizations that you have to choose from in order to create your business.

The three choices are (1) sole proprietorship, (2)

partnership and (3) corporation.

The most common type of business organization for home based businesses is the sole proprietorship.

This type of business only lias one principal owner who is

responsible for any debts that the business may incur and this owner pays taxes on

the net income of the business.

This type of business is the easiest to start or

terminate - and this is the type that we would recommend for you.

The second choice for your business organization is the partnership.

of business, two or more individuals agree to co-own a business.

In this type

The basic

problem with the partnership is that any of the partners could make a major decision without the approval or knowledge of the other partner or partners.

If

this major decision happens to be a bad decision, all of the partners will suffer.

If

this major bad decision causes the business to fail with mountains of bills left behind all of the partners are equally responsible, not just the one who made the wrong decision - in addition, if there are not enough assets in the business to satisfy the debts, the partners1 personal assets could be seized to satisfy the debts to the creditors. If you choose to go with the partnership, be sure to go to a lawyer and get the necessary paperwork drawn up so that each of the partners knows what their rights and responsibilities are.

107

The third type of business organization is the corporation.

A corporation is a

business set up by law to act as a single person. There are usually several people

involved in selling up the corporation. You would have to go through a lawyer to get the corporation set up, naming a board of directors, officers, etc.

The

advantage of a corporation is (hat each person involved is limited financially to the amount of money he has invested in case of a business failure. The disadvantage of a corporation for a small business is that it requires much more paperwork and recordkeeping.

Tax returns have to be filed for the corporation as well as

individual tax forms for the persons involved, which results in additional time and accounting expense.

We would advise you to keep your business organization and recordkeeping as

simple as possible in order that you can spend asmuch time as possible doing what you really want to do — make money!!

In other words, if you aren't burying

yourself with paperwork you can concentrate on building up your business. We'll go into more detail on recordkeeping a little later.

108

NAMING YOUR BUSINESS

Probably one of the first major tasks for you is to pick a name for your new business. Let me advise you against picking a fancy long "catchy" name that may be hard for your customers to remember,

h is, after all, your business, and you

can name it whatever you want, but let me warn you about the pitfalls of the fancy

"hard to remember" name. Unless you list your business name in the yellow pages of the phone book under the proper heading "sewing machine repair", your customers will not be able to get hold of you.

A general business listing in the

phone book white pages with your "catchy" name simply will not work.

Your

customers may think your business name is "cute" but a few days or weeks later

they will not be able to remember it. Sewing

Machine

Repair",

be

If you wish to use something like "Speedy

sure

to

contact

your

telephone

company

representative about yellow page advertising.

Just as we advised you to keep your business organization simple - we advise

keeping the business name simple also. Repair".

How about

"Sam's Sewing Machine

Using your name as part of the business name will be easy for the

customer to remember and you won't have to file For a fictitious name.

After deciding on your business name, you'll need to get some business cards made - usually the minimum order is 1,000 and an estimate for the cost would bearound $25 to $30.

You will want to give out a business card to all of your new

customers for repeat business and also for them to refer their friends to you. Again, make the business card simple and to the point with your business name

109

and a logo if you want to have a logo, then your address and phone number a! the bottom of the card.

In addition to business cards, you should have some small self-adhesive labels made with your name, address and phone number. Attach one of the labels to the side of the repaired sewing machine so the customer will have a ready reference to

find you when she needs you again. These labels will be permanently attached to the sewing machine so will not get lost like flyers and business cards sometimes do.

1(0

BUSINESS LICENSE

Licensing requirements vary from state to stale and city to city, so you will need to check with your city clerk's office to see what your local requirement is.

Some

cities or counties require a business license for a home-based business, while others do not. The same thing applies to sales lax - a slate requirement. Sales tax

will need to be collected if you live in a state that has a state sales tax.

You will

need to get a resale (tax) number from the state and they will send you the proper

forms and instructions for sending the sales tax you've collected back to the state either monthly or quarterly.

(See the following pages for a listing of state

government information telephone numbers).

Sales tax must be collected on

everything you seJl retail. For example, if you sell thread or needles to a customer and you live in a stale where there is a sales tax you must add tax to ihe retail sales price.

When you purchase materials and supplies to resell to your customers be sure to

give the suppliers (see listing of wholesale suppliers in the back of this book) your state tax ID number so you won't have to pay sales tax on them at the time of purchase.

The stale doesn't want to collect tax twice on the same goods (once

from you when you buy the materials and the second time from the person you sell the items to). Therefore, when you buy the materials and supplies with no tax, by

showing your tax identification number, the clerk or supplier knows you will collect tax when .you sell the item to your customer.

Ill

Don't let the requirement of collecting sales tax prevent you from making retail sales to your customers. The collection of and turning in sales tax is a very minor, but important, task in this business, and is worth paperwork!

the time it takes to do the

Look through 'The Sewing Room" section of this book and you will

get ideas of many items you will be able to sell to your customers!

It has been our

experience that Sewing Machine Repairmen that have a supply of sewing notions with them (placed in a display box or briefcase so the customer can see what is available) will make sales of thread, seam rippers, lint brushes, seam guides, etc.,

that many limes will equal or be greater than the sewing machine job itself) You can literally increase your sewing machine repair profits by 25% or more with the addition of sewing notion sales.

The addition of tax on the actual sewing machine repair job itself will also vary from state to state.

In some states there is a sales tax on "services", while other

states there is not.

Be sure to ask this question while you are at your city clerk's

office to sec what your local and state requirement is.

112

State Government Information Numbers

Alabama

(205)

832-6011

Alaska

(907)

465-2111

Arizona

(602)

255-4900

Arkansas

(501)

371-3000

California

(916)

322-9900

Colorado

(303)

839-5000

Connecticut

(203)

566-2211

Delaware

(302)

736-4000

Florida

(904)

488-1234

Georgia

(404)

656-2000

Hawaii

(808)

548-2211

Idaho

(208)

334-2411

Illinois

(217)

782-2000

Indiana

(317)

232-3140

Iowa

(515)

281-5011

Kansas

(913)

296-0111

Kentucky

(502)

564-2500

Louisiana

(504)

342-6600

Maine

(207)

289-1110

Maryland

(301)

269-6200

113

Massachusetts

(617)

727-2121

Michigan

(517)

373-1837

Minnesota

(296)

296-6013

Mississippi

(601)

354-7011

Missouri

(314)

751-2151

Montana

(406)

449-2511

Nebraska

(402)

471-2311

Nevada

(702)

885-4065

New Hampshire

(603)

271-1110

New Jersey

(609)

292-2121

New Mexico

(505)

827-4011

New York

(518)

474-2121

North

(919)

733-1110

North Dakota

(701)

224-2000

Ohio

(614)

466-2000

Oklahoma

(405)

521-2011

Oregon

(503)

378-3131

Pennsylvania

(717)

787-2121

Rhode Island

(401)

277-2000

South Caroling

(803)

758-0221

South Dakota

(605)

773-3011

Tennessee

(615)

741-3011

Texas

(512)

475-2323

Carolina

114

Utah

(801)

538-3000

Vermont

(802)

828-1110

Virginia

(804)

786-0000

Washington

(206)

753-5000

West

(304)

348-3456

Wisconsin

(608)

226-2211

Wyoming

(307)

777-7220

Virginia

115

WORK OUT OF MY GARAGE OR FIND A BUSINESS LOCATION?

WORK OUr OF YOUR GARAGE!!! This is a "Home Based Business" and vou

will have advantages thai those sewing machine retail outlets and other sewing machine repair retail outlets don't have. These fantastic advantages will bring you countless numbers of sewing machine repair jobs!

You will literally "snatch" the

repair jobs away from those in a retail environment!

First of all you can advertise "FREE PICK UP AND DELIVERY" and will be able to do it because you don't have to sit in your retail establishment all day "waiting"

for customers to come in. In addition you can advertise "IN HOME SERVICE AT NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE" and be able to do it because you don't have to sit

in your retail establishment all day "waiting" for customers lo come in.

'Chink

about all the sewing machines in those cabinets that the ladies are unable to get out of the cabinets - who are they going to call? YOU!

What about all the ladies

who have heavy sewing machines, even if they are in a carrying case, and have a problem transporting the machine.

Who are they going to call?

YOU!

What

about those that are caught in the middle of a major sewing project when the machine quits and they don't have time to take it to a shop and then wait weeks until it is ready before they can go back to pick it up? Who are they going to call

to gel IN HOME SERVICE - TODAY?

YOU!

If you are able to get to the

machine within a day or two, you will indeed be a lifesaver For the seamstress!

She will

brag about you

to everyone she

knows that

sews and

make a

recommendation that they contact YOU for any repairs they might need!

even think about a business location - slay at home with this business! 116

Don't

BOOKKEEPING

Bookkeeping is probably the most important aspect of your new business.

You

will want to keep accurate records of your expenses and income for lax purposes, and then keep your tax returns and records for a minimum of five years.

I don't

mean to scare you when I talk about the importance of bookkeeping - it actually

isn't hard, just something you need to be conscientious about.

If you get into the

habit of keeping all of your receipts (postage, bills from printers for printing

flyers, business cards, labels, etc.).

In addition, it is extremely important that you

keep track of your mileage - this will probably be the biggest tax write off you will have.

We suggest that you get a small pocket calendar in which you can keep

track of your DAILY trips.

For example on Monday the 3rd you may have

beginning odometer reading

11,235.6, ending reading 11,247.4 along with a

notation "Mary Smith".

At the end of the year go back through the calendar and

add up each days' mileage for a grand total for the year. A service business that is mostly profit, the mileage may be the biggest deduction you will have, and the

current IRS deduction of .28 cents per mile can add up to be a big deduction. The pocket calendar then becomes part of your tax records for the year.

You will need to open a separate checking account to keep the business income and expenses separate from your personal expenses.

If you will be taking charges

(Visa or MasterCard), you will have to have a business account and let the bank

officer opening your account for you know that you want to be able to take Visa and MasterCard and they will fill out ihe necessary paperwork for you and give you all of the supplies you will need, or will head you in the right direction to 117

make application that will allow you to take charge cards.

It has been our

experience that nearly all of the sewing machine repair jobs will be paid for in

cash or check. selling some

However, if at some point in time you decide you want to start inexpensive

sewing

machines

that

are

available

through

the

wholesale suppliers, you might be able to make some additional sales if you do offer to take Visa or MasterCard. Sometimes the potential customer may not have

enough casii on hand and will prefer to charge the purchase.

Other people prefer

to charge so they don't have to carry around cash and you might lose these sales if you don't offer credit card charging.

On the oilier hand, if you elect to keep your business simple and slay with just the sewing machine repair and minor sales like thread, needles, etc., it would nol be

necessary to offer Visa and MasterCard. If you choose to go the simple and easy route (at least at the beginning - you can always apply for charge cards later), you will be able to just open a personal checking account with your name, rather than

the business name, and have "special account" printed on the checks. This method will eliminate the business charges that you would have if you opened a regular business account.

You will need to get a record book that you can use lo keep track of your sewing

machine repair jobs and sewing notions you sell (you can keep track of them by day, week, or month - you'll need this information for your sales tax return, as well as for end of the year Federal taxes).

118

If you prefer you could devise a record keeping sheel instead of a book where you

can record all of the necessary information:

DATE

Sewing Machine Repair/Notions Sold

Price

You might also want to add a category to put the customer's name and address beside their order (for mailing list purposes) unless you're keeping a separate card on each customer.

We

HIGHLY

recommend

that

you

keep

a

separate

3x5

card

on

KACH

CUSTOMER, that includes her name, address, phone number, make & model of sewing machine, etc.

Write the dale of service and the problem that was repaired,

as well as any sewing notions that she bought from you.

card file and file them BY MONTH.

Keep these cards in a

Then, next year for example in February

you would take MARCH of last year's cards out of the box and call each person or send a post card (see sample in back of book) to let them know that it is time for

the annual cleaning and oiling in order to keep their machine running in tip top condition. By following this one simple task, you can DOUBLE your business!

It

seems that people are conditioned not to worry about something until it breaks

down - and that usually happens in the middle of an important project!

By

educating your customers a little about the advantage of this annual check up and

tune up, you will end up saving your customers hours of frustration and you will get countless additional referrals simply because YOUR customers1 machines will continue to run day after day after day!

119

Regardless of vvhat method you want to use for keeping track of your income and expenses, I would recommend that you go to your local Internal Revenue Service office and pick up a "Schedule C" - the form for reporting a profit or loss from a "sole proprietorship" type of business.

Look over the form to see how they have

the expense categories broken down.

By using this as a guideline, you will be

more aware of what type of expenses arc used for a lax deduction and you will be able to separate your expenses accordingly.

Whether you do your own year-end taxes or have an accountant or bookkeeper do them for you - you'll be ahead of the game if you keep all of your receipts throughout the year. Also, make sure you keep all of your tax returns, records and

receipts for a minimum of five years, just in case of an audit.

120

Help from the Small Business Administration

The

Small

designed

to

Business

help

you

get

Administration your

business

There are

many

where you

may write for information,

wealth

of

offices throughout

informational

booklets

the

and

(SBA)

started

United

is

right.

States

and they have a publications

that

you may write for - and they're all FREE, which makes it a better deal

The the

yetl

following

list

gives

you

the

addresses of

all

SBA Field Offices - write to the one nearest you

for a listing of their publications:

Boston

Massachusetts

02203

John Fitzgerald Kennedy BIdg. Holyoke

Massachusetts 01040 326

Augusta

Appleton

Street

Maine 04330

Federal BIdg., US Post Office 40 Western Avenue

Concord

New Hampshire 03301 55

121

Pleasant

Street

Hartford

Connecticut

06103

Federal Office Building 450 Maine Street Mon;oelier

Vermont

05601

Federal Bldg, 2nd Floor

87 Providence

State

Street

Rhode Island 02903 702 Smith Building 57 Eddy S

New York

New York 10007 26 Federal Plaza, Room 3930

Hato Rey

Puerto Rico 00919 255 Ponce De Leon Avenue

Newark

New Jersey 07102

970 Broad St., Room 1636 Syracuse

New York 13202 Hunter Plaza

Fayette & Salina Sts. Buffalo

New York 14203 Federal Bldg, Room 9

121 Albany

Street

New York 12297 91

Philadelphia

Ellicott

State

Pennsylvania 19004 1 Decker Square 122

Wilmington

Delaware

19801

U.S. Customs House 6th and King Baltimore

Maryland 21201

1113 Federal Building Hopkins Plaza Clarksburg

West

Virginia 26301

Lownde Bank Building 119 N 3rd Street

Charleston

West Virginia 25301

3410 Courthouse & Federal 500

Pittsburgh

Quarrier

Street

Pennsylvania 15222 Federal 1000

Richmond

Building

Building

Liberty

Avenue

Virginia

23240

Federal

Building

400 N 8th Street

Washington

D.C. 20417

1405 "I" Street NW Atlanta

Georgia 30309 1401

Birmingham

Peachtree St, NE

Alabama 35205

908 S 20th

123

Charlotte

North Carolina 28202 Addison

Building

222 S. Church

Columbia

South Carolina 29201

1801 Jackson

Mississippi 245

Gulfport

Jacksonville

Assembly

Capitol

Street

39205 Street

Mississippi

39501

2500

Street

14th

Florida 32202 Federal Office Building 400 W Bay Street

Louisville

Kentucky 40202

Federal Office Building 600 Federal Place Miami

Florida 33130 Federal Office Building 51 SW 1st Avenue

Tampa

Florida 33602 Federal

Building

500 Zack Street Nashville

Tennessee 37219

500 Union

Knoxville

Tennessee 37902 502 S. Gay 124

Memphis

Tennessee 38103

Federal

Building

167 N. Main Street Omaha

Nebraska

Federal

68102

Building

215 N. 17th Street St. Louis

Missouri

63102

Federal

Building

210 N. 12th Street Wichita

Kansas 67202

120 S. Market Denver

Colorado

721 Casper

80202

19th

Wyoming 82601 300 N. Center Street

Fargo

North

Dakota 58102

653 N 2nd Avenue

Helena

Montana 59601

Power Block Building Main & 6th Avenue Salt Lake City

Utah 84111 Federal

Building

125 S. State Street

125

Sioux Fails

South Dakota 57102 National Bank Building

8th & Main Avenue San Francisco

California 94102 Federal

Building

450 Golden Gate Ave. Fresno

California 93721 Federal

Building

1130 "O" Street Honolulu

Hawaii 96813 1149

Agana

Bethel

Guam 96910

Ada Plaza Center Bldg. Los Angeles

California 90014 849 S. Broadway

Las Vegas

Nevada 89101 300 Las Vegas Blvd. S

San Bernardino

California 92401 532 N. Mountain Ave.

Phoenix

Arizona 85004

122 N Central Ave. Tucson

Arizona 85701 Federal

Building

155 E. Alameda St.

126

San Diego

California 92101 110 West C Street

Seattle

Washington 98104 506 2nd

Anchorage

Alaska 99501 1016 West 6th Ave.

Fairbanks

Alaska

99701

510 3rd Ave. Juneau

Alaska

Federal Boise

99801

Building

Idaho 83702

216 N. 8th St. Portland

Oregon 97205

921 SW Washington St. Spokane

Washington 99210

Courthouse Bldg, Room 651

127

You may write to the SBA office closest to you and

ask

for

available.

a

listing

of

publications

that

The following list gives you

they

have

some specific

publications to order that we feel will help you to get started.

You

can just order them

by publication and

title as they are listed here. #1

Handicrafts & Home Businesses

#15

Record

#46

How to Analyze Your Own Business

#71

Checklist for Going fnto Business

#121 #144

Measuring the Results of Advertising Getting the Facts for Income Tax Reporting

#192 #193

Profile Your Customers to Expand Sales What is the Best Selling Price

Keeping Systems

128

SETTING BUSINESS GOALS

Up to this point we have talked about getting your business off on the right foot. Now we want to talk a little bit about making .sure that the business stays on the right path - through goal setting.

It is a known Fact that "if you aim at nothing, you will hit it", h is also a known fact that if you stood outside your car, put it in gear, and backed off, there's no possible way that the car would stay on the road!

By (he same token, if you don't

set some specific plans and goals for your business - how will you ever know if

you're on the right road or if you're heading for the ditch? How will you know if you've accomplished anything at all? Are you moving forward or backward, are you even moving?

Take some time right now and write down a few goals and then expand on them later.

What do you really want to accomplish with your business (some extra

grocery money?

a little more money to buy a new TV, furniture or help pay

college expenses for your child? business?).

a part-time work at home job?

a full time

How much lime can you devote to your sewing machine repair

business?

There are other questions you will think of relating to business goals. You should sit down with four sheets of paper for working out your goals - you need to have weekly goals, monthly goals, 1 year goal plan and a 5 year goal plan.

129

At the beginning your 1 year and 5 year goal planning sheet will be pretty empty,

but as you go along, they will get fuller. Your immediate attention will be on the weekly and monthly goals. These have to be specific "I will do this first, I will do this second, I will do this third" type of goals. Then each day do something! Your

weekly and even monthly goals will be changing and will need to be somewhat flexible, but that does not mean that you will disregard them! As you write and re-write the goal and daily "to do" sheets, and make sure you have accomplished something each day, you'll be amazed at how fast the whole business will come together.

After a few weeks, then months, you can look back and see that the

simple goal setting details were the very thing that helped you get your business off the ground.

You can keep down a lot of confusion and wasting of lime if you'll get a year or

18 month calendar for keeping track of advertisements coming out, etc. This will

eliminate running the same ad twice or forgetting to run it again, etc. Ifyou later decide not to run that ad or do that mailing you can X through that date and know it would be available for something else.

While we're on the subject of planning your calendar, I want to mention to you

about the tremendous potential of the Christmas Season, Back To School time, and Spring for your sewing machine repair business. We'll talk about this again in

the section about advertising, but we feel these three times of the year are so very important to the success of your business that it needs to be highlighted here.

130

You may not be aware of the fact that many retailers do half of their annual business during the Christmas season. What this means to you is that you need to get the word out about your business as often as possible from the first of October through Christmas — if you have sewing notion "gift ideas" that you could advertise during this season, you could make a considerable amount of extra

money. Also, these three times of the year is when most of the sewing gets done

as the seasons change and then at Christmas when people make Christmas gifts as well as clothing for the season.

131

THE SEWING MACHINE REPAIR MARKET

Nearly every household has a sewing machine. In some homes the machine is used only for doing alterations and mending rips, tears, etc. In other homes the sewing machine is used nearly every day. Dry cleaners almost always have one or

two stores that do the alterations for that particular cleaners, which means sewing machines that are used daily.

Most of the large retail clothing stores have an

alteration department for ahciing the dresses, suits, etc. that the customers

purchase, which means sewing machines that are used daily. Hospitals, children's homes, prisons, are among other places that would have sewing machines in use nearly every day. Sewing machine repair is a wide open market and one that is growing by leaps and bounds as mote and more people are beginning to make clothing for themselves and for their families.

There are 85,000.000 (MILLION) home sewers in this country and the figure is growing every day!

'flu's docs not take into consideration the other sewing

machines that also need to be cleaned and repaired at schools, hospitals, retail clothing outlets, dry cleaners, etc.

Use your telephone book and go through the yellow pages looking for schools,

cleaners, etc. thai you KNOW have sewing machines and begin to contact them. Do up a flyer to hand out to friends, relatives and co-workers telling them about

your new business. We'll cover methods of advertising in depth in the advertising section.

We simply want to impress upon you that sewing machine repair is a

wide open field and the .sooner you get into it the sooner the money will come!

132

CHARGING FOR SEWING MACHINE REPAIR

The quickest way to find out what the going rate for sewing machine repair iIll your area is would be to look up "Sewing Machine Repair" in your telephone book

yellow pages and call and ask what they would charge to clean, oil and adjust whatever kind of sewing machine you've bought at a yard sale that you're going to practice on. If there's more than one sewing machine repair shop call them too and ask the same question, It" your telephone book has several other towns in it, call those people also and get the prices from towns all around you and including your own town. You can price your sewing machine repair jobs at the same price

or at the beginning perhaps you'll want to go $5.00 under the going rate so if a customer calls you with the intention of calling others as well in order to get the best price, yours will be the best price. However, you should keep in mind and be

sure

to

mention

to

your

callers (and

make sure

it's

in

your

flyers

and

advertisements!) the fact that you pick up and deliver or have "in the home" repair. This will set you apart from the others and will bring the business to you.

The average sewing machine repair charge runs between $35.00 and $50.00 depending on the area of the country and how much competition there actually is.

it usually takes 1/2 hour to an hour for most repair jobs.

However, many of the

simple problems (needle in backwards, etc.) can lake only ten to fifteen minutes.

If this is the case, be sure to do a thorough cleaning and oiling on the machine and do some trial sewing on the various stitches (zig zag, straight stitch, reverse) to be sure that is the only thing wrong. Your customer may think you are over charging

133

her if you only stay 1 0 minutes and leave, so we would recommend that you spend a fillle extra time on the cleaning, etc.

Also, regarding the charging tor your services - many people have a lower opinion of their own work than others who need the work done. some sewing

overhead

machine

technicians believe that

And, we've found that

because they don't

have the

their "retail establishment" competitors have (hey should charge about

half the price. These ideas are all wrong! You are a professional at what you are

doing and you need to be paid a good price For what you do. In addition, you are doing "in the home" repair, which is unheard of these days, so you need to be compensated for that extra service you provide.

134

ADVERTISING YOUR SERVICES

How do you get the word out that you are now in the sewing machine repair business and ready to go out and work?

There are several ways that you can advertise your business. First of all, give out those business cards to friends and family to inform them and also tell them to pass the word along to anyone they know that has sewing machines that you can now work on them.

Mailing flyers to a local area is an excellent way to get the word out in mass. If you want to try this type of advertising, there are several things you will need to

do. First of all, go to your local Post Office and make arrangements to get a bulk mail permit. This permit will cost you an initial one-time fee of around $75, and at the beginning you'll have to pay the annual fee of around $60.00. The one-time fee is, of course, paid only once when you set up the builk mailing account.

The

annual fee is, naturally, paid every year, and the year runs from January 1 through December 31.

So, if, around the middle of October you decide you'd like to do

this type of advertising, determine how many leaflets you're going to mail out to see if it would be to your benefit to pay the annual fee at that time, and then have to pay it again in December for the following year.

The good thing about using the bulk mailing is that letters or flyers you send out

will cost you, right now, 22.6 cents each, instead of the regular 32 cents, which is the first class rate (these rates are subject to change as postal rates may change).

135

With the bulk mail you have to send out a minimum of 200 in each mailing (the

post office will give you instructions and all the necessary items you'll need to

start your mailing), but if you want to get your leaflets out to the public, you'll probably be sending out more than 200 anyway.

Who will you send your Leaflets to? You can start by going through your phone book yellow pages and finding every business that you think would have a sewing machine in use (dry cleaners, hospitals, schools, retail clothing stores, etc.).

One good way of getting the word out to every home in the community would be to call your local post office and find out their procedure for sending out a bulk mailing to every person on a particular route. For example, maybe Rural Route 2

has 150 patrons that the mail carrier delivers to every day.

A bulk mailing to

everyone on "Route 2", since you don't have all the names, would be done by typing "Postal Patron" instead of an individual person's name. Take a look at the mail that you receive and you will find many pieces of mail that are addressed "Postal Patron". Contact your local post office to get the details on how they want this type of mailing done.

(See the last section of this manual for sample flyers

that were sent out by bulk mail).

There are two general types of advertising that you might want to consider classified advertising and display advertising. be placed in advance.

Both types of advertising have to

Be sure to check all of your local newspapers and

niaga/.ines for their advertising rates and deadlines.

You should make a note of

these deadlines on the annual calendar we talked about earlier.

136

For classified

advertising you have to be able to "sell" your service in a few words and make the

ad appealing enough for the consumer to want to pay for your services (for sample classified ads, see the last section of this manual).

Classified ads are generally short, 15 to 20 words, so you have only a little space to prove to your prospects that your services are going to be useful to them.

You need to zero in on the customer's hot buttons.

What is good about your

business that will make a customer call you? Tell the customer why your service is better.

Include "Free pick up and delivery" or "In the home repair".

Let the

customers know what sets you apart from the others.

A good ad, whether a classified or display, has four key elements: a) a description of what you are selling, b) a sales pitch, c) a premium incentive, and d) a response vehicle.

a)

Description of the service.

You will have to motivate people of the

value of your service to them.

b) The sales pitch.

A good sales pitch gets the prospect involved at once.

Just as we talked about earlier, use the catchy words. A few persuasive words can

motivate people to come to you, if used correctly in the course of your advertisement.

137

c) Premium incentive. A good classified ad will give the reader a reason to

contact you.

What can you do for the prospect if he answers your ad

immediately? Maybe you have some free gift (lint brush, etc.) or a couple of dollars off for the new customers.

d) Response vehicle. This is simply a return address or phone number to which they may come see you or call you.

Your sewing machine repair classified ad should be placed under the heading of "Services" if your newspaper has that column heading. Look through the headings that are available to see which category your ad would fit best.

One side note about classified advertising.

Usually small local newspapers will

not be very expensive For your classified ads. Or if you have a "Shopper" "Thrifty Nickel" "Penny Saver" type of paper, you may want to try putting your classified ad there.

It has been our experience that people will usually place one classified

ad and if they don't gel Hooded with phone calls they never advertise again. This

is the WRONG attitude! NOT a one-time thing!

business.

Classified advertising (and advertising in general) is

It is those people who continue to run the ads that get the

For example, your first ad might not have resulted in a single sewing

machine repair job. However, the second or third time the same ad comes out and people keep seeing it, they'll start thinking "This person must be having good results with this ad and must have a thriving business - think I'll go ahead and get my sewing machine repaired".

Some weeks you may not get any calls, but other

weeks you might get 5 or 10 calls for sewing machine repair jobs. 138

You never

know who might just be reading the paper that needs the service you offer. So our advice to you is to keep tiie classified ad running.

Display ads are the big picture ads you see in every magazine and newspaper you pick up. These ads are costly, but vary in price from one periodical to another. Again, ask your local newspaper office for a "media kit", which will give you all the information you'll need to know about prices, sizes of ads, deadlines, etc. Look through the newspaper to see the way various ads are laid out and what all is said in the display ads. This might be the time you could go for a "coupon" ad - a small display ad in which you would give a discount on the sewing machine repair job if they have the "coupon" from the newspaper.

(See the back section of the

manual for sample display ads).

There is money to be made in both display and classified advertising, but you have to keep accurate records to make sure you are getting enough business to pay for the cost of the ad. If you find an ad that doesn't pay off, you might try re-writing the ad, sometimes just a different choice of words makes all the difference. Trial and error will teach you some big lessons, but at least if you learn from them, you will have accomplished something.

Other methods of advertising you can use are simply handing out leaflets or flyers to people, tack a flyer to bulletin boards at grocery stores, fabric stores, etc., (see the sample copy of a flyer in the back section of this manual). Flyers and leaflets are inexpensive to make and the more people you hand them out to the more business you will get.

In addition, instead of mailing a flyer to the schools,

139

hospitals, dry cleaners, you could spend a day or two visiting those places and personally hand them the leaflet or flyer and one of your business cards.

You'll

find thai this "personal" touch can bring in a tremendous amount of business and most likely will be immediate business because some of those places you visit will

have a sewing machine with a problem or one that needs cleaning, oiling and adjustment. You can then just set a time the next day or whenever is convenient with the customer so that you can come back and work on the machine. Be sure to

let all of the commercial customers (schools, cleaners, etc.) know that you will COME TO THEM and that there is not an extra charge for that service. You may

have several customers lined up before you go back home!

Don't stop with just

one or two businesses - take the listing that you made from the yellow pages of your lelphonc book and make a committment to contact EVERY one of them.

If

there are too many for one day, set aside one day each week to call on prospective sewing machine repair customers until you have contacted all of them.

You will

be surprised and pleased at how many of them will be THRILLED with the fact

that you will do the sewing machine servicing at their location.

This will save

much time for the business owner — the owner must find someone to take the sewing machine to a shop, then be without it for a week or two or three, and then

find someone else to go pick it up.

You will be a lifesaver for the business

owners with the service that you offer!

You may also just be able to make a

considerable amount of extra money with the sewing supplies that you have with you.

White and black thread, as well as other basic colors, and seam rippers, lint

brushes, etc., will gladly be purchased by the business owner!

Again, you arc

saving them a lot of time because they don't have to send someone to the store to get supplies.

We've mentioned il before and we'll mention it again, the basic 140

sewing supplies and notions that you have on hand can mean an extra $5.00 to $50.00 on each sewing machine repair job you go out on.

'The main thing to remember in your own business is not to give up.

You may

make many mistakes at the beginning, and we all have done that, you just need to

learn from them i\nd go on. The sewing machine repair business is an extremely profitable business, whether you decide to wovk it part time or full time.

Good luck in your new business venture1.

141

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER

[n this book, the author and publisher have tried to get you enthused about starting your own business.

We have talked about the sewing machine repair business

which we believe to have good profit potential for the beginning entrepreneur.

However, you must realize that the possibility of failure is a fact of life in the business world.

There is no business on this earth where everybody succeeds (if

there were such a business, every person in America would immediately quit their current job and go into that business).

There arc many, many variables, any one of which could make your business venture show little or no profit.

Your own initiative and desire will play the

greatest part in whether your business will be a success.

We remind you that

nothing printed in this book should be interpreted as a guarantee, on the part ofthe author or the publisher, that your business will be profitable.

All ofthe information in this book reflects the opinions ofthe author.

While we

believe that the information is accurate as ofthe date of printing, it is possible that

there arc errors of omission.

This book is not intended to give legal or financial advice, since neither the author nor the publishers are accountants or attorneys.

Whenever you need such advice,

you must consult a professional lawyer or accountant, or both.

142

CHECKLIST FOR

STARTING YOUR

SEWING MACHINE REPAIR BUSINESS

143

The "checklist for starling your sewing machine repair business" is simply a guide

for you to follow as you get your business up and running.

The purpose of this

section is to give you a "handle" on your business venture. Many times in a new business the small things arc overlooked, and every detail, whether large or small is important to a profitable business.

By following this guide the new business can be started in a systematic way. This guide is a scries of questions that you may answer so that you'll know at a glance what has been done and what needs to be done yet. Answer the questions in your

own unique way and according to your needs now. The various subjects are listed in alphabetical order - you may re-arrange them if you wish.

144

ADVERTISING

1. Do you have a budget for advertising?

2. I lave you decided which type of advertising to do first - newspaper advertising or mailing out flyers?

3. Have you visited several printers and checked prices on printing? (Check with several and ask the same questions of each of them - how long until you'd get your finished

printing,

prices,

will

they

help you

choose

paper colors or give

suggestions to make your tlyers better?)

4.

Have you made arrangements to have your business cards made?

(This is one

of the first things you need to do).

5.

Have you contacted your local Post Office to get information about bulk

mailing?

They have packages of information already

made up to give to

individuals who are thinking about doing this type of mailing for advertising purposes.

6.

Have you checked with fabric stores and general merchandise stores to see if

you can put a full or half page flyer on a bulletin board or wall where their customers can see it?

145

BUSINESS NAME

1.

Have you avoided

the trite and

n_oi called your business

"Your Name

Enterprises?"

2. Is your name selection appropriate to your business?

Will potential customers

know what type of business you're actually in? ("Jim's Repairs" tells the customer nothing, whereas "Jim's .Sewing Machine Repair" tells the whole story!)

3.

Is your name short enough that it will help cut costs in the Classified Ads that

you will be placing ("Jim's Sewing Machine Repair" is certainly fewer words than "Jim's Sewing Machine Repair and Sewing Notion Supplier", even though you do sell sewing notions.

Save the Sewing Notion Supplier for flyers and display ads

where the words are not charged individually, like they are in Classified Ads.

4.

Have you tried out your name with others (family, friends and business

associates) before going to the printer for letterhead and business cards?

5. Will ilie name you select lend itself to a distinctive logo, if you choose to use a logo?

6.

Add up the costs of using your selected name for a year (ads, business cards,

dyers, etc.) then consider how much it will cost you to change it.

Are you ready

to live with it or risk that extra expense? Also, changing names several times is lo your regular customers - what is your name Tl IIS week?

146

CLASSIFIED ADS

1. Have you written tile ad out in full? (Don't worry about the word count now, but get all the benefits to the reader down on paper. Benefits include FREE pick up and delivery

in home repair, etc.)

2. Does your ad contain the AIDA, or similiar principle for all good advertising -Attention, Interest, Desire and Action?

3. Did you begin your ad with a benefit to the reader?

4. Have you started your ad with the popular "pulling power" words or with an active verb, such as "Get11, "Save", "Make", etc?

"How to..."

The most powerful

word of all - "FREE", can certainly be used in this home based business of sewing machine repair!

"FREE pick up and delivery" — "In the home repair AT NO

EXTRA CHARGE".

5. Is your name and address (and phone) complete and correct?

6. If you get a call tomorrow, are you ready to set the appointment and go?

147

COMPANY

1.

(low have you organized your company? Have you compared the advantages

and disadvantages of single proprietorship, partnership, corporation?

2.

Have you

talked with

your accountant about the tax advantages and

disadvantages for ihe different methods of organizing your business?

3. 1 lave you gone to the local Internal Revenue Service or your accountant to pick up a copy of a "Schedule C" so you can become familiar with all the various types

of expenses that are allowed by the Internal Revenue Service and deductions that you can make?

4.

Mave you picked up a pocket size calendar that you'll need to keep in your

vehicle to note mileage each day and also make a notation of where you went ("Mary Smith - Sewing Machine Repair" or "Post Office - mail flyers")?

5.

Have you thought about some extra items you'd like to sell to your sewing

machine repair customers - needles, lint brushes, scissors, thread, etc.? Have you called Brewers Sewing Supplies to get information on setting up an account with them so you will be able to purchase notions wholesale then sell them to your customers at the retail price?

(48

COMPLAINTS

1. liven though the customer is not always right, do you treat your customers as you would like to be treated?

2. Do you take care of complaints quickly? (Prompt response is more than half of the solution to the complaint.

If you repair a sewing machine today and in two

days the customer calls back with the same problem, she may be doing something that is causing the problem to be repeated.

For example, if you went out and the

needle was in backwards and you fixed it, cleaned and oiled the machine, etc. and

when you left everything was working great.

If the lady wasn't aware that she

wasn't putting the needle in right, she might change the needle and have the same problem all over again.

Your response should be to go back

and check out the

problem - at no charge - and show the customer how to properly put the new

needle into the machine.

This will satisfy the customer and at the same time

prevent future minor problems of this type for this customer.)

149

.R PAYMENT

1. Arc you aware of the problems that could arise if you go with a "Bill Me" payment method'? (Larger accounts such as hospitals, schools, dry cleaners, etc.

would work very well on a "bill at the end of the month - clue by the 15th of the following month" schedule; however, it is our opinion that individual customers should "pay when the job is completed".

We've found that customers expect to

pay when the machine is repaired and rarely will anyone ask about being billed.)

2. Do you accept checks? We've found that very few checks bounce, but if you're not sure on new customers, you can always go straight to the customer's bank and cash it immediately instead of running it through your own bank.

3. Do you offer credit card .service? This is not a "must" and will not slow down your business.

However, in some instances, if you are selling higher ticket items

like a new sewing machine, or if someone wants to purchase a large amount of sewing notions they may ask if you take cither Visa or MasterCard.

At the

beginning we would advise you lo just stick with cash and checks for (he sewing

machine repairs and sewing notions that you sell.

150

1. Does your ad use a simple headline that promises an immediate benefit to the reader?

2. Is your copy (wording within the display ad) lively and oriented to the reader?

3. Does your ad tell why your service is unique and why the customer should give you a call?

4.

Have you given the price? Are your going to give them a "Special Price" or a

"coupon" that gives a discount off the regular price?

5.

Have you listed the customer benefits? (Free Pick Up and Delivery...In Home

Repair Service).

6. Mave you ended your ad with your company name, address and phone number?

How can anyone contact you if you forget to put your phone number in the ad?

151

PRICING?

1. How do you arrive at the price for your sewing machine repair service?

2. Are yoct familiar with the competition's pricing? 1 lave you called around to see that the "retail establishment" sewing machine repair stores are charging?

3.

Are you familiar enough with the psychology of pricing that you know that a

cut-rate price does not always mean a jump in sales?

(After all, you're offering

benefits that the "retail establishments" cannot offer -- in home service; pick up and delivery; and many times same day service.

152

RECORDS

1.

Have you set up a system for keeping full and accurate records of your

customers? I lave you purchased a card file to indicate dates of service of each of your customers so you'll be able to send out your "Annual Check Up" notice to each of the customers.

2.

Do you have a record of the results of your mailings of flyers — how many

people responded and how many sewing machine repair jobs did you get?

3. Are you keeping track of the classified ads?

4.

If you've placed your business in the yellow pages of the phone book (and we

highly recommend that you do since that's the first place someone would look when they have problems with their machine!), are you making a note on the customer record card that she got your name from the phone book?

5.

Do you know the months that are best for major advertisements of your

service? (End of winter for Spring sewing; May for Summer sewing; August for Back to school sewing; and October/November for Holiday sewing).

153

REFERRALS

[. Do you ask your customers to refer you to their friends and co-workers? Have you given them business cards to pass out?

2.

Do you suggest additional purchases when you are doing a sewing machine

repair job -- let the customer see your selection of notions for sale.

If you don't

mention it, she won't even know you have something else available for her to buy.

154

SKWINK NOTION PRODUCTS

1.

Have you made a decision whether to offer sewing notions to your sewing

machine repair customers?

2. Have you contacted sewing notion suppliers (Brewer's etc.) For inibrmation on setting up accounts with them?

3. Have you made a listing from the section "The Sewing Room11 of various items

you might want to offer to your customers? You might want to start out with just a few items, then expand as your business grows.

155

SAMPLE FORMS

AND

ADVERTISEMENTS

156

SAMPLE BUSINESS CARD FOR SEWING MACHINE REPAIR

You may not know enough about vacuum cleaner repair to add that item to your business card.

Your card may simply read "

Sewing Machine

Repair".

EXPRESS Sewing Machine & Vacuum Repair

Reuben O. Doyle 7267 Mobile Highway

(904) 944-2960

Pensacola, FL 32526

Free Pickup & Delivery

157

SAMPLE WORK ORDER FORM (Fill out when calls come in)

7267 Moble Hwy.

Pensacola, FL 32526 (904) 944-2960

Sewing Machine b Yocnnm Repair Name

Address. Phone

Pickup Date:

.Time:

Delivery Date;,

Time;

Work Description;

Special Instructions;.

Amount Due: All bills due and payable upon rcccipl, unless otherwise arranged.

Signature: X_

FREE Pickup & Delivery! 158

7267 Mobile Highway

Pensacola, FL 32526

ctiK A vacm

air

(904) 944-2960

159

Special! Sewing Machine Tune-up * Cleaned & oiled

* Check & adjust tension

* Check and adjust timing

* Check motor

* Check wiring

* Adjust belts

* Inspect nil moving parts

* FREE New needle

* Parts extra

»»

1" >M"d"'""""'"

Call 944-2960 Now! FREE Pickup & Delivery or In-Home Repair Service! 160

SAMPLE DISPLAY ADVERTISEMENTS OR MINI-FLYERS TO HAND OUT

FREE Pickup &

Delivery!

or In-Home Repair (904)

Service

944-2960

Mon. - Fri. 8 am to 6 pm Sat. 9 am to 5 pm

Special!

Sewing Machine

Cleaned & Oiled

Regular

$40

Special

$28 (save $12)

No pans included.

Call 944-2960 Now! FREE Pickup & Delivery or In-Home Repair Service! 161

Sewing'IucHk ft Yacm itepair

Sewing Special!

Special! Sewing Machine

Sewing Machine

Cleaned & Oiled

Cleaned & Oiled

Regular

$40

Special

$28 (save $12)

Regular

$40

Special

$28 (save $12)

No parts included.

NopntLs included.

Call 944-2960 Now!

Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & D-I!very

FREE Pickup & Delivery or In-Home Repair Service!

or

Sewing mtuie ft Vacnua Kepair Special!

Sewing Machine

Cleaned & Oiled

& Oiled Regular

$40

Special

$28 (save $12)

Regular

$40

Special

$28 (save $12)

No parts included.

No parts included.

Call 944-2960 Now!

Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & Delivery

FREE Pickup & Delivery or In-Home Repair Service!

or In-Home Repair Service!

uiiK & Vacm Special!

air

Sewing Machine

Special!

Cleaned & Oiled

Sewing Machine

Cleaned & Oiled

Regular

$40

Regular

$40

Special

$28 (save $12)

Special

$28 (save $12)

No parts Included.

No pans included.

Call 944-2960 Now!

Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & Delivery

or Iit-IIonic Repair Service!

FREE Pickup & Delivery

162

or In-Home Repair Service!

^■■■■■■■■■■iia

(904)944-2960

Pensacola, FL 32526

7267 Mobile Highway

Sewing Kddiliie & Vdeuam' Repair

you monthly.

just sign for your finished work and we invoice

With a business charge account at Express, you

Express Charge Account

Home Repair Service.

deliver right to your door. Or try our special In-

Get Express quality repairs without even leaving yourhomeoroffice. Justcallus. Wepickupand

FREE Pickup & Delivery!

Check us out and see.

Low Prices Since sewing machine and vacuum repairs are all we do, and we do so much of it, we can afford to give you much better deals and price cuts!

and service, and you get them/izyr.

Repair - Fast! When your repairs have to be done quickly, by a professional, call Express! You get quality work

Quality Sewing Machine & Vacuum

VYiiv

or In-Home Service

FREE Pickup & Delivery

Sat. 9am - 5pm

Mon. - Fri. 8am - 6pm

(904) 944-2960

i i i i i i i

Special! Sewing Machine Tune-up * Cleaned & oiled * Check and adjust timing

* Check & adjust (elision * Cheek motor

* Check wiring * Inspect all moving pails

* Adjust bells * FREE New needle

* Parts extra

ve $12)

Call 944-2960 Now! FREE Pickup & Delivery or In-Home Repair Service! 164

SAMPLE POSTCARD

(To use for Annual Check-Up Time)

EXPRESS SEWING MACHINE REPAIR 7267 MOBILE HWY PBNSACOLA, PL 32526

Place Stamp Here

IT'S THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN!!! Our records indicate that it is time for the annual denning and tune-up for your sewing machine.

1 laving your sewing niacliine cleaned and tuned up annually by a professional sewing machine technician will add YEARS to the life of your machine, ill addition to helping

prevent breakdowns in the middle of your biggest sewing project. Ciive us a call to schedule your annual cleaning and tune-up.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE REPAIR - $40.00 ANNUAL TUNE-UP SPECIAL - $28.00 SAVE SI2 AND KEEP THAT SKWINC MAC MINK MUMMING!

EXPRESS SEWING MACHINE REPAIR - (904) 944-2960 165

SAMPLE CUSTOMER SERVICE RECORD CARD

Customer Service Record Date Customer Name

Phono

Zip.

Sink1.

City

(wL(

H

I

Profession

'rafession

Spouse's Name Children

Notes:..

Products Purchased Date

Product

Quantity

—

166

Total Retail

SAMPLE POCKET CALENDAR DAILY ENTRIES

/.PUIl

Foeis mo stubborn 1

.■

APRIL

.J

1

\

1

6

» 111 11

IJ

11 II

IV

o

!■>

J!l Vt

/)

W

IB

1.

. /J ^S JL .1

3

MONDAY

4

TUESDAY

1

- Al Alt!

[ESAGf

M -■'

THURSDAY

FRIDAY \IDAY "7

. 3 - U* \f\

5

WEDNESDAY

SATURDAY

SUNDAY Palm Sunday

9

WHOLESALE SUPPLIERS

Following are a few wholesale suppliers you may want to contact and set up accounts with, in order to get office supplies, sewing notions and minor sewing machine parts (tensions, bobbins, etc.) at wholesale prices.

VIKING OFFICE PRODUCTS

POBox 19085 Jacksonville, FL 32245 (800)421-1222

QUILL OFFICE PRODUCTS P O Box 94080

Palatine, 1L 60094-4080 (800)789-1331

BREWER SEWING SUPPLIES 3800 W. 42nd St Chicago, IL 60632 (800)444-31 11

NATIONAL THREAD & SUPPLY CORP 695 Red Oak Rd

Stockbridge.GA 30281 (800)331-7600

168

NOTES

BLINDSTiTCH/HEMMING MACHINES As with the sewing machine and sergers, the blindstitch/hemrning machine plays an important role in our sewing operations.

Those who do a lot of alterations or

make enough clothes to have the need of a hemming

machine also nzed to be aware of adjustments they can do to keep the machine humming.

The following listing of

adjustments and diagrams will tell you how to take care of

certain problems.

Keep in mind that you may never have

to make some of the adjustments that are detailed, but in

case the need arises, help is at your fingertips. A. Positioning the needle clamp: L

Insert the needle in the clamp and loosen screw

"A" to permit adjustment of lever "B" (Fig. HEM-1). Fig. HEM-1

169

2.

Adjust lever "B" so the eye of the needle comes

up past the needle slot in the pressure foot assembly, 1/32" past the edge at its highest position.

3.

Secure screw "A" and be sure the needle lever

didn't rotate on its axis around the shaft. If it did rotate, it will cause the needle to be off-center in the groove on the shoe.

Rotate the handwhcel by hand to insure that the

needle is centered in the groove,

[f it is not centered,

loosen the screw and center, then tighten the screw. B. Looper Adjustments: 1.

Rotate the handwheel until the loopcr is passing

over the needle on the right side of its travel HEIYI-2).

Fig.HEM-2

170

(Fig.

NOTES

NOTES

The clearance of the looper above the needle should

be 0.5 mm, or the thickness of a sheet of paper as it passes

over the needle (Item "C", Fig. IIEM-2). 3. The long point of the looper should pass behind the eye of the needle by 2.4 mm (or 3/32") as indicated by Item "1", Fig. I1EM-2.

4. NOTE:

If the looper passes over the needle too

close to the needle's eye or too far behind (or away from)

the needle eye, the looper rod (hem "P" Fig. HEM-3) may need to be adjusted. Fig. HEM-3

T S —'

A 1

I

'vi

t

B

D

5. The looper rod length should be 4" to 4 1/32" as indicated in Fig. HEM-3.

6. To adjust the looper rod, loosen screw "N" and nut "M" (Fig. HEM-3). Also loosen set screw "1" and remove pin "O". The looper rod fork can be rotated

clockwise to shorten ov counter-clockwise to lengthen. When you rotate either clockwise or counter-clockwise over a half turn, you must rotate at least one complete turn

171

either way. Why? If you only rotate half of a turn, screw "N" will be inaccessible and you will not be able to tighten the screws. Check (his out as you adjust 7.

Reverse the above procedures to re-asscmble.

CAUTION: snug.

DO NOT tighten screw "N" too tight - only

If you over tighten screw"N", the ears where they

are located may break or crack.

8. If the looper touches the needle or presser foot at Hem "G" Fig. HEM-2, loosen screw "11" and use a screwdriver in the slot to open a little (Item "J"), If the looper is striking the needle, rotate "J" clockwise. If the looper is too far above the needle, rotate Item .1" counter-clockwise (Fig. 1IFJV1-2).

ti in

9. If the looper touches the presser foot or the needle at Item "K" and the long prong of the looper at Item

"L", rotate the eccentric block (Item M" clockwise (Fig HEIVM). Fig. HEIVM

K

R

172

NOTES

10.

NOTES

If the looper is touching at Item "K" (Fig.

HEM-4) and the needle is touching the short prong of the looper

at

Item

"L",

you

screws"N" (Fig. HEM-3).

must

loosen

nut

"M"

and

As you rotate the (ooper rod

downward, this will clear ihe short prong of your looper at Item "L" and raise the looper at Item "K" (Fig. 1JKM-4). 11.

The adjustment

for the

looper to clear the

chain-off pin "Q" (Fig. IIEM-4) and presser fool at Hem

"R" can be done by rotating the eccentric block (Item "J" Fig. HEM-2) either left or right to give you the desired

clearance.

You have to loosen Hem "H" to adjust as

needed (Fig. HEM-2).

12.

Be sure (he looper rod carrier pin (Item "S"

Fig. UEM-3) is Hush gainst the looper rod carrier (Item •T") and does not have any play left or right.

Loosen

screw "H" to adjust as required and then tighten screw "H" when finished (Fig. HEM-2). C. Needle guide

Fig. HEM-5

If the needle guide (Item "U" Fig. IIEM-5 insert) becomes grooved or broken, remove and install a new one,

following the instructions on the following page. When replacing the needle guide, slide "U" of the needle guide into the undercut neck of screw "V" (Fig.

HEM-5).

Insure that the needle guide is pushed all the

way under screw "V". Uokl in this position and tighten the needle guide screw "V". D. Feed dog

The feeder dog should be below the presser foot a

maximum of 3/32" at point "W" and a hair less at point 11X" (Fig. HEM-6). Fig. HEM-6

Be sure the looper clears the feeder at point "Y" (Fig. HEM-5). Insure that feeder screws "Z" are firmly tightened.

174

NOTES

NOTES

1.

When the feeder needs replacement, remove the

FRONT feeder attaching screw (Item "Z" Fig. IIEM-5) and loosen the REAR feeder screw (also Item "Z" Fig. HEM-5). Remove the old feed dog and install the new one. Slide the new feed dog under the rear screw and install the front screw. 2.

Before securing the attaching screws, inspect to

see if the i^od dog is adjusted to the proper clearance. This distance should be 1/32" or .796 mm below and parallel to

the bottom of the presser foot for light and medium weight materials (Fig. HEM-7). Fig. HEM-7

1/32

175

For

heavy

materials,

the

setting

should

be

approximately 1/16" or 1.59 mm below and parallel to the

bottom of the presser foot (Fig. HEM-8). FiS. IIEM-8

1/16

These distances are intended as a guide and can be

adjusted in accordance with the fabric you are using. Now rotate the handwheel slowly away from you and check the

looper point (Item "Y" Fig. HEM-5) to see that it also clears both sides of the feeder slot and the presser foot. If there is no touching of any parts and the machine operates smoothly, lighten the feeder screws (Item "Z" Fig. HEM-5) firmly.

E. Adjustment of the depth and skip stitch:

Fig. HEM-9

u C B

F

G

176

NOTES

NOTES

I.

Rotate the depth knob all the way towards the

(more) side.

Loosen lock-nut "D" (Fig. HEM-9) and

adjust the shaft screw "E" so when the needle passes over

the rib, it just touches the rib (Fig. HEM-10 "A" and "B"). Fig. HEM-10 tfAniHi(lnB11

A

•

\

/

/

\

1?

-'■ ■ ■

TOP

VIEW

END

VIEW

With the machine set on "skip" the needle should pass over the rib as shown. Notice it will pass over the Hat

portion of the rib "A" shaft every other stitch. 2.

Rotate the "depth" knob seven (7) turns to the

(less) side. Adjust the compensating skip stitch screw "A" to a point where there is a distance of .18" between it and the push rod "B".

(.18" is about the thickness of 5 sheets

of paper). 1 Ioki screw "A" and secure the lock nut.

3.

Set the machine to the 2-1 setting (Item "H"

Fig. HEM-9).

Insure that the push rod "G" is in contact

with the skip stitch lever throughout its entire stroke in and

out.

This will insure a full push on the arm and a well

formed skip stitch.

177

COMPUTERIZED SEWING MACHINE EXAMPLE CAUTIONS: When working with electrical and computerized boards, the following items should be very strictly adhered to:

1. DO NOT touch any metal areas of the printed circuit boards with your bare hands. 2. DO wear rubber gloves when handling printed circuit boards. You don't want oils from your hands to compromise the circuits on the boards. 3. INSURE you are grounded before touching electronics boards or

equipment that is to be worked with.

This will help to prevent static electricity

from defusing the operation of that unit. 4. DO NOT let any metal object touch any printed circuit boards, such as screwdrivers, etc., even during your repair procedures.

179

MECHANICAL PARTS LAYOUT

I. PRINCIPAL MECHANISMS 1. MECHANICAL CHART Needle position (UP-'DOWN) Shu nming pulley

Isolation

Timing pulley /

Balance wh-e!

f—Upper shall

Ecctrwt :ountei

Thread lake-uo level as*e-"nbiy

Needle bar Needle bai crank Heedlc bar cank

Needle bar Need'* bat

Linear Driving bell

Main rnolO' un

leed iaU*

Low-

Hornonral l?ed Marri^niai l»sd Shall

r^gulflling mecrianiim

180

Low?» nmmg oulley

POWER TRANSMISSION CHART Generating mechanism of needle bar, thread take-up lever and zigzag movements

(B)

Movements of feed dog and shuttle hook

Uooe' lim.nq

Dullev

® p

Uopcr IMtl

-

Timing

Hoot arming I

vt local

®

Hook O'ming

Stiuille

hoo«

181

Feed stand

j

Fee<J doy

SnJ» Cul

lo««i

t*quU\at\

I Li"Bii

3. ELECTRONIC PARTS ARRANGEMENT CHART

Sub nunied orcuii board

f'<>sser loot wuch

Pane1" display Change switch ^ Bobbin wtrujet swtc

Buttonhole (3H) switch Bulionhol? switch lever

Junction lor Inol Lamp switch

n OW-v*< Switch

•e'J dog sv.ncii

Co'd

4. CONTROL SYSTEM BY MICRO-COMPUTER The micro-computer being used in Compal Galaxie is 8-bit computer fabricated on a single chip using N-MOS (Nchannel silicon gate MOS process! m dQ pms dual-in-line package with built in 4K byte mask ROM, 96 byte RAM. oscillator, timer and I/O port. Moreover 1 28K bit mask ROM and 1 6K bit RAM are expanded on external CPU All function of this machine are fully controlled by this micro-compulef

•CCONTROL SYSTEM CHART> I T«chom«iff.ytn«iito> ]

Soeed sens

H

feed *ciuaio'

Mam

^E^~h Speed wo'y

Buirer Mlin m d>i«ng

Oscillator

J RAM [ 1 6»C t)itl J

CPU

ROM \"K brrel

• *eedie coj-iiO'

■cai senio't

dev.cel (Osi'CJi

SmJb-cutlet

Rlvt'tl »"'i

<1eifCltng jwii

Bobbin v/mder

selection

l jiiicn length

Pf.Mf lOD! D deiCCIioq jwil

^•;d dog dcJiI

LEO.

LED. needle ooiii-on IUP/0O-//N) L5 7 iegm*ntj I.CD

l

Manual tflC.1

COMIOl iwiC

If" -.e,i

key.

Pjllern dijo'a snqe

Jwil

i eonc 3lle

182

Raw |95

■ synlhesi

5. THE FUNCTION OF MICRO-COMPUTER (MAL-WARNING VOICE) CPU being used in this machine is supervising the kind of selected pauern. position of presser foot, feed dog and buttonhole lever, state of bobbin-winding. Start/siop switch, reverse switch, etc. If the customer operates the m3chme erroneously, the error is pointed out by mal-warning voice.

The output of voice made byvoice synthetic system is PARC OR way which consists of 2 pcs of P-MOS LSI Oneisrnask ROM which stores information digitally analysed for the output voice, of which mernory capacity is 12BKbit.Theoiher is acting synthesis of the voice according to the information from former ROM and CPU output. The ma I-warning voice contains 10 messages in total whtch are as follows: I

Please lower presser foot lever.

2.

Please change position of red knob to right io raise feed dog

3

Please change position of red knob to left to lower feed dog.

4.

Please lower blue lever.

5

Please raise blue lever.

6

Reverse stitch cannot be obtained using this pattern.

7.

Memory capacity full

B-

Please check instruction book

9

This pattern combination is noi acceptable

10.

Please check instruction book. Refer to instruction book.

Please use a foot controller-

i. MAIN MOTOR CONTROL main motor for sewing machine is required to have slable revolution from low speed to high speed agamst load negation and temperature change. To fully comply with this requirement, this Compel Galaxie is adopting Dltage DC. motor and PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) by transistors

'. LINEAR ACTUATOR CONTROL (PATTERN GENERATING DEVICE) (LINEAR ACTUATOR CONTROL BLOCK CHART)

Pauerr\ selection

?£&

SwilcH

A"'°«

Diflarennal

Needle ba' moving

amohfiei

device

i

i

VHOC'lT

Itta : j . i

CPU

OillerenliSlor

Position Ieed-b3ck

0/A convener

—1

Deferential

amplifier

Posnion detector

J Fffed *&gulanng device

Drrwnj Citcutt

I It*tf Bit"

I

I

Oillerent'caioi

Position lee<J- bacl

183

Position oeiectoi

1

II. DISASSEMBLING & REASSEMBLING 1. OUTER PARTS 1. Raise pressure regulating lever and remove face plnie by loosening a screw. 2. Remove bobbin winder cover by loosening a screw. 3. Remove front cover by loosening three screws. 4. Remove bed cover by loosening two screws.

5. Remove extension plaie by loosening two screws.

6. Remove manual regulator cover by using screw driver. 7. Remove plug case by loosening a screw.

184

8. 9.

10.

Remove stop ring then remove zigzag connecting link Loosen a screw on eccentric counter weight.

Lower pressure regulating lever.

1 1. & 12. Remove pressure regulating mechanism by loosening two screws.

/

3.

Remove power supply base plate cover

4

Disconnect power supply switch connector A and transformer

i .;,■." —•r.iif ,„)«.;

connector B

185

'I -I 1 :: ■• •'-■■;

1 5.

Remove plug case by loosening screw.

1 6.

Remove cord reel unit by loosening three screws.

1 7.

Loosen a screw.

1 8.

Loosen a screw.

1 9. 20.

Remove a eccentric shaft from lower shaft holder (Right) Remove feed mechanism unit by loosening five screws

(1.

Remove zigzag connecting lever by loosening a stud screw.

!2.-a

Remove stop ring then remove zigzag connecting link, as done at step 8.

-b

Remove transformer by loosening two screws

■c

Remove fixing plate by loosening a screw

■d

?3.

Remove supporting plate by loosening a screw.

Remove linear actuator by loosening two screws.

Zigtig connecting link

Reassembling

24.

Deleimine Jhe position to In feed mechanism unit by a pin. of which diameter is 6 mm.

25

Fit feed mechanism unit by using five screws

26

Change the position of red knob to left to lower feed dog and make sure the clearance between stud plate and vertical arm is more than 0 5 mm.

27.

Tighten the stud plate by a screw.

28.

Insert the eccentric shaft into lower shah holder (Right)

29

Tighten tentatively.

Stud plait

30.

Meet the convex portions of linear actuator gear and feed regulator gear in face each other then tighten m|wo screws making sure the clearance between both gears is 0.03 ~ 0.04 mm.

3 1 -a

Fit the Z'gzag connecting link to vertical arm by a stud screw.

-b

Attach supporting plate to the linear actuator,

-c

Attach fixing pl3te onto supporting p)aie in 3 screw making the lower part of the fixing pj^re ho'd the nght bushing of lower shaft holder.

-d

Tighten the supporting plate by a screw.

-9

Fix transformer.

Zigzag connecnng [eve* Slut) ICftv.

Lm#ar aciuaior gear

Feed regulating gear

32.

Fit the pressure mechanism unit to vertical arm mcerting eccentric counter weight into upper shaft

33.

Tighten pressure mechanism unit in two screws. At thai lime tighten upper screw slightly and after adjusting the top of needle drop to the cenier of needle hole, tighten iwo screws securely.

34.

Assemble zigzag connecting link to zigzag connecting lever and attach stop ring together with thermoplasiic

35.

Tighien a screw tentatively.

washer.

36. Lower the needle until its lowesi position by turning balance wheel

3 7. Turn ihe balance wheel so lhai the base line oflower timing pulley is

between eccenu.c counter we.gh, and upper Shah bushing * Q^'J

38. Tighten the screw of eccentric counter weight securely.

Eccenmc counier wgi

0-0 2 mm

O mrn

,.-

39.

Loosen a screw.

40

Lower the needle from its highest position by 21.4 mm turning balance wheel forward

Aim portron \

[

| ;

\

1

.

1214 mm

b

Needle bar jiand

J

|~*Weedle bar

@'

* :

The highest poinion ol needle hs<

o

The nine mat brake is released (The brakt i> releajed at ihis pomi)

■b = a + 21 4 mm

A 1

Make sure the clearance between feed regulator and brake gum is 0 ~ 0 05 mm by turning eccentric shaft.

42.

Tighten the screw

43.

Raisetheneedlelromits lowest position by 15.2 mm turning balance wheel forward (Brake operation starting pomi)

44.

Make sure Ihe brake is properly operaied to leed regulator.

189

1 On the way

needle bar raising!

needle batjowsring

highest oomt

a : Measurement on Ihe needle ba' highesr DOin

c = a + r 5* 2 mm

4 5.

Position rotation shutter so that it can cross rotation sensor when needle >s posinonedat 22.9 mm tower than its highest position. Then position N.P. shutter so that it can cross N.P sensor when the clearance between thread take-up lever and the nb of thread guard is about 0 mm (This is temporary adjustment and make final adjustment later. Refer 10 page 34.)

1 | 1 t

22.9 mm

I

1

■

Posmoo o' roiaiion ihuiw

The measure ment should b? 0 mm

ol M P

190

46

Connect main powtii switch connector A and transformer connector B.

47

Fii (he power supply circuit board.

48.

Fit cord reel unit by tightening three screws.

49.

Fit plug case by tightening a screw.

50

Fit plug case by tightening a screw.

51

Fit extension plate with two screws

52.

Fit bed cover with two screws.

53.

Fit front cover with two screws.

54

Fit bobbin winder then tighten a screw.

55.

Fit a face plate with a screw.

56

Fit a manual stitch control switch cover

2. CORD REEL UNIT (How to remove) 1. Loosen 3 screws and remove those screws holding cord reel base so thai it does not turn. Turn cord ree) base

counterclockwise about 4 — 5 times until it is free from the tension of spsra! spring. 2. Remove cord reel wheel from cord reel cover. (How to fit)

3. Put cord reel washer on cord reel wheel. 4. Put cord reel wheel in cord reel case.

5. Make sure that cord goes as far as possible by moving the notching lever toward outside using screw driver.

6. Turn cord reel base counterclockwise about 4-5 times and hold it not to turn clockwise in the tension of spiral spring.

7. Fit cord reel base wiih 3 screws.

3. REMOVING PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS

Cord tee\ cast

LEAD WIRES ARRANGEMENT dth

5. REMOVING TRANSPARENCY DISPLAY PLATE (Tha order of disassembling) 1. Loosen a screw then remove a slop ring and a sprino

2. Remove pattern change lever. 3. Loosen 2 screws.

4. Remove transparency display plate. (The order of reassembling)

Proceed in reverse order ol disassembling. Make sure 10 fit spring as illustrated.

193

Fitting position of micro-switch 1. Make sure ihe micro-switch actuator is in line with micro -

switch body. Make sure LED 15 lighted when micro-switch lead wire is connecled to primed circuit board and pattern

n display change I

change lever is moved to fight.

2. Make sure micro-switch actuator is not contacted with pattern change lever when patiern change lever is moved

10 left. Make sure LEO continues to light to led direction when micro-switch is connected to printed circuit board and pattern change lever is moved to left then the pattern

selection switch (Left) is keeping depressed

m display cfungt

06

HO

194

POSITION OF SHUTTLE HOOK en zigzag stitch is selected and the width is set at >is maximum position. When needle raises from its lowest position by 4.0~- 4.3 mm. the hook point should meet with the side oi the needle it left needle movement.

The clearance between the hook and needle is less than 0.1 mm and never touch each other. UUSTMENT Set the machine 3t zigzag pattern Set zigzag width at its maximum position Loosen three screws

Adiust the hook to achieve above two slandard. Tighten the screws.

>TE ike sure two standard are achieved if you loosen the screws.

irk

i ■

The lowest position ol needle bar

):

The measu'emeni when hook point meet with ihe jide o' needle

4 0-d 3 mm

la-4 0-4-4 3)

2. HEIGHT OF NEEDLE BAR STANDARD

When the zigzag stitch is selected and the width is set ai us maximum posiiion.

1. The clearance between the upper top ol needle eye and bottom top of hook is 0.4 — 1.0 mm when needle and hook meet ai left needle position

ADJUSTMENT 1

Set the machine at zigzag pattern.

2. Set the zigzag width at us maximum position and seek the position that needle meets with hook point by turning the balance wheel 3

Loosen ihe screw.

4 Move the needle bar up or down io obtain correct position 5. Tighten the screw. NOTE

Care should be taken when you adjust i^e needle bar. the needle bar easily lu/ns and ii lightened incorrectly, it might be caused the trouble ol twin needle sewing

^ o a

□

c

i^i

'

'

3. BOBBIN CASE HOLDER BRACKET

4. HEIGHT OF PRESSER BAR

STANDARD

STANDARD

1. The clearance between the bracket 3nd hook is 0.5 "• 0.7

1. The clearance between presser fool and needle plate is 6.0 ""6.5 mm.

mm.

ADJUSTMENT

ADJUSTMENT

1. Select zigzag pattern and set zigzag width at "0".

I, Raise oresser foot lever.

2. Loosen iwo screws.

2

3. Adjust the position of bracket (eight to left or back and

3. Adjust the height of presser bar.

forth).

Loosen screw.

4 Tighten the screw.

A. Tighten screws.

NOTE Make sure the presser fool and feed dog are in line

o o cm

5. HEIGHT OF FEED DOG STANDARD

1. The feed dog is higher than needle plate by 0 9 - 1 1 mm when drop feed is set at up position and it reaches its highest posiiion.

2. The clearance between the feed dog and needle plate <s more than 0.3 mm (below) when drop feed is set at down

position and feed dog reaches its highest position. ADJUSTMENT

1, Set the drop feed at up position.

2. Turn the balance wheel and seek the position that feed dog reaches its highest position Loosen the set screw and turn the stud

Tighten ihe set screw. than 0 3 r

6. POSITION OF ROTATION SHUTTER & N.P. (NEEDLE POSITION) SHUTTER STANDARD

I

Disappear the LEO indicating "H" (horizontal) when needle is reached at the position of 22.9 mm lower than its highest position by turning balance wheel ai test mode

2. In case that needle is sei at us up position, the topol needle is stopped at the position of 8 mm upper than needle plate also thread lake-up lever is stopped at the position of 14 ± 1 mm upper ihan thread tension bar. ADJUSTMENT

1.

Turn the power supply switch on wuh keeping bolh manual slitch length/width control switches depressed to be set a test mode.

2.

Set the needle at the position of 22.9 mm lower ihan its highest position by turning balance wheel

3.

Loosen a hexagon socket screw of rotation shutter.

4.

Turn the rotation shutter forth slowly and seek the position that the LEO "H" disappears

5

Tighten the screw.

6.

Start sewing and stop it by using start/stop switch.

7.

Loosen a hexagon socket screw of N. P shutter.

8.

Seek the correct stop position (highest position) of thread take-up lever to meet with above standard by turning N P

shutter forth or back.

*ln case that the shutter turns too soon, thread take-up lever stops before it reaches to its highest position. In case that the shutter turns too late, thread take-up lever stops after it is over at its highest position 9. 10.

Tighten the screw. Check if the adjustment meets with above standard when the needle stops at its up position.

>!

Needle

22 9 mm

197

7. BRAKE TIMING FOR FEED REGULATOR STANDARD

When balance wheel is turned forward, feed regulator is released from the brake at the position that needle is lowered by 2 I.d mm from its highest position and brake operates again from (he position (hat the needle is raised at 1 5.2mm until its highest position through its lowest position. ADJUSTMENT 1. Lower ihe needle by 21.4 mm from its highest position by turning balance wheel. 2. Loosen a screw.

3. Adjust the clearance between leed regulator and brake-gum to be 0 - 0.05 mm by turning eccentric shad. 4. Tighten Ihe screw.

5. Raise the needle by 15.2 mm from its lowest position through its lowest position 6. Make sure that (he brake is properly operated on feed regulator.

0" the way Needle bar

Ann poilion

-f1

highesi point

On the way

ne*dle bar is

needle bat is lowering

b

PNeedie bar Ilovw-si c

s ■ Meedls bai highesi po c = a + 15 2 mm

8. TENSION OF MOTOR BELT STANDARD

There should be same slacks (1 ~ 6 mm) when the motor belt 15 |ust pushed (about 200 g pressure.) ADJUSTMENT 1. Loosen two screws.

2 Adjust be)t tension by moving motor holder to meet with above standard

.

3 Tighten the screws.

198

9. TENSION OF TIMING BELT STANDARD

There should be some slacks (3-5 mm) when ihe liming be ft is just pushed (abotu 200 g pressure.) ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen a screw.

2. Adjust the position of idle pulley lo meet with above standard. 3. Tighten (he screw.

0 r*1'™

10. R.P.M. OF MAIN MOTOR STANDARD

CD

Speed Control Lever

lllllllHlli ■

R.P.M.

•

■HIM •

I00-120R.PM

8OO-85OR.P.M (STRAIGHT) 700-750 R.P M (ZIGZAG) 36O-42OR P.M (MEMORY & PROGRAM PATTERNS)

CAUTION As each volumes are locked by paint, turn them slighily \o the direction ol rotation and not give any pressure lo the direction of thrust. After adjustment, make sure to be again locked by paint. ADJUSTMENT

1. Sei a machine at test mode.

2. Set the speed control lever at its leltesi position (lowest speed position). 3. Start the machine and turn the volume ol VR1 clockwise or counterclockwise so that number o( rotation should be 10O-120R P.M. 4. Set the speed control lever at its nghtest position (highest speed position} and select ihe straight stitch.

5 Start the machine and'turn the volume VF12 clockwise or counterclockwise so that numbers of rotation should be SOO-85OR P.M 6. Select zigzag stitch.

7. Start the machine and turn the volume VR3 clockwise or counterclockwise so that numbers of rotation should be 700-7508 PM

8 Change to the memory mode and select one ol memory patterns (No 47—67). 9. Start the machine and turn the volume VR4 clockwise or counterclockwise so thai numbers ol rotation should be

38O-42OR PM

199

©

VH9 VRtO

o o

□

NOTE

1. Each speeds never exceed to the standard.

2. The sewing speed is indicated by 2 digits in digital display window. Ex. "12" means '"120R.P.M.".

11. NEEDLE STOPPING SPEED STANDARD When needle stops at its up position, needle threader can be usable and pass the ihread to thread take-up lever easily ADJUSTMENT

1. Set the machine at test mode. 2

Set the sewing speed at 1 dOR.P.M. by moving speed control levor.

3. Turn the volume VK5 clockwise until LED indicating (vertical) will be lighted A. Turn the volume VR5 counterclockwise until the LED will disappear

200

2. CENTERING OF THE NEEDLE fANDARD

Needle should drop at the center ol needle hole when zigzag pattern is selected with its minimum stitch width. DJUSTMENT

Set a machine at test mode.

Select the zigzag stitch. Turn the volume VR10 clockwise or counterclockwise so that needle should drop at the center of needle hole

VR10

®'

13. SETTING OF THE MAXIMUM NEEDLE SWING STANDARD

1. Needle enters the needle hole balanced when zigzag smch is selected with its maximum stitch width. ADJUSTMENT

1. Set a machine at test mode. 2. Select zigzag stitch.

3 Set the zigzag width at its maximum position. 4 Turn the volume VR9 clockwise or counterclockwise so that maximum zigzag width should be 6.8-7 0 mm.

VR9

6 8-7 0 mm-

201

14. FORWARD FEEDING AT STRAIGHT STITCHES STANDARD

1. There should be no feeding when stitch length is set at its minimum position. 2. When setting at straight stitch, 1 1 stitches are sewn in 24 mm. ADJUSTMENT

1. Set a machine at lest mode. 2. Set the speed control lever at its maximum position. 3. Turn the volume VR-8 clockwise or counterclockwise so that no leeding is obtainable in sewing on paper when

stitch length is set at its minimum position (The paper is noi led at least 5 seconds.) 4. Set the machine at pattern

Q .

5. Start this pattern on paper uniil it is finished and adjust to meet with above standard 2 by turning volume VR6 Maximum stitch length should be more than 4 5 mm.

15.

LENGTH OF FORWARD AND REVERSE STITCHES FOR SUPER AUTOMATIC PATTERNS

STANDARD

Make sure to obtain proper length of both forward and reverse stitches to make fine pattern. ADJUSTMENT

1. Change to memory mode by moving pattern change lever to right. 2. Input following pattern numbers to sew as "EPS" No 04 -f No. I 5 + No. 1 8.

3 Set the length fine adjusting volume on the right side of machine to be horizontal direction. 4. Depress the start/stop button to sew sample.

5. Turn the volume VR7 clockwise or counterclockwise so that reverse stitch meets with forward stitch. In case that longer reverse stitch is required

Turn the volume clockwise.

In case that shorter reverse stitch is required

Turn the volume counterclockwise.

POSITION OF BUTTONHOLE SWITCH LEVER JDARD ien buttonhole lever (Blue lever) and presser foot lever

lowered. BHO touches with BH 1.

; legs of buttonhole should be diameter of button plus

switch body

j mm. JSTMENT

lect buttonhole pattern.

the buitonhole loot and push the top portion of it ckward as far as it will go. osen

a screw

case lhat the legs a re shorter than i he standard, bend the 11 to be far from BHO. case that the legs are longer than the standard, bend the 12 to be near BHO. |hten the screw.

1 2

0 5 mm

f. UPPER TENSION DIAL ANDARD

The clearance between two discs should be 0 ~ 0.3 mm when presser foot is lowered and tension dial is set at 0 Spring 15 touched with spring holder and ihe top of thread release piaie begins to depress on the tension disc B. when

presser foot is lowered and tension dial is set at 8. JJUSTMENT Set upper tension dial ai 0. Lower the presser loot lever Loosen iwo screws

Adjust the position of thread tension bracket to meet with above standard 1. Tighten the screws

Set upper tension dial at 8 Loosen a hexagon socket screw

Adiust the position of spring holder to meet with above siandard 2. Tighten the screw.

203

18. THREAD TENSION RELEASE STANDARD

The clearance beiween two discs should be more than 0.5 mm when presser foot is raised and tension dial is set ai 9. ADJUSTMENT 1. Set upper tension dial at 9 and raise [he presser loot lever.

2. Adjust the position of thread tension release B to meet with above standard. 3. Tighten the screw and check if the clearance between two discs is more than 0. 5 mm by moving presser foot lever up and down.

19. SIDE-CUTTER ADJUSTMENT {LOCK LEVER POSITION) STANDARD

When the lock lever is fully pushed down (2 5 — 3.0 kgs). the lower part of lock lever should be positioned within the red mark.

ADJUSTMENT 1. Loosen two screws and take out Ihe upper plate

2. Take out bracket case and attach the side-cutter on the tubular arm. 3. Loosen a screw.

4. Turn the eccentric stud with screw driver and adjust the clearance beiween the lower side of lock lever and side-

cutter to be 3 *** 5 mm. 5. Tighten the screw.

6. Attach the bracket cover and check again.

©'

0. SIDE-CUTTER ADJSUTMENT {LOWER & UPPER KNIVES) TANDARD . When side-cutter is out of machine and upper knife holder

5. Move the holder downward and loosen a set screw. Adjust

is a! highest position, both knives meet each other by 0.7 -

the clearance between guide axis and holder be 0 mm and

1.2 mm.

then tighten the set screw

Lower and upper knives bite each other by 1 5 ~ 2.5 mm when needle bar moves to its lowest position. DJUSTMENT . Remove bracket case by loosening two screws. Keeping holder at highest position, adjust lower and upper

knives to meet each other by aboul 1.0 mm and set upper knife temporarily. Attach the side-cutter to tubular arm and set needle bar al

us lowest position making sure theymeeteach other by 1 5 *- 2.5 mm. Remove side-cutter from machine and firmly tighten the upper knile with securing holder.

21. SIDE-CUTTER ADJUSTMENT (UPPER KNIFE DOES NOT WORK) STANDARD

Upper kmle should work when it is set to machine. ADJUSTMENT

1. Attach the side-cutter to tubular arm and set the needle bar at its highest position. 2. Loosen a screw.

3. By moving the holder up and down, seek the position that the pin is fitted into guide plate. 4. Tighten the screw.

22. SIDE-CUTTER ADJUSTMETN (ATTACHING GUIDE PLATE A 8t B) STANDARD

The clearance between guide plate A and upper knife should be 0 mm. ADJUSTMENT

1. Set the holder at its highest position.

2. Loosen the screws on guide plaie A & 8 and adjust ihe clearance between the guide plate A and upper knife to be 0. 3. Tighten the Screw A & B

Guide plate 8

23.

NEEDLE THREADER

1, Needle threader accept only circle marked needle and thread combinations. 2* marked combination is not recommended since it might lead to the breakage of needle threader imperfect performance. 3 Lower the presser foot when you use needle threader

4. Do not use needle threader when you use twin needle. 5. Nylon transparent thread is applicable in needle # 1 4 — 16. 6. Do not turn the balance wheel when you use needle threader. 7 Do not touch needle threader when machine is running

8. Needle should be located above needle plate (or more than 8 mm for threading. 9 Needle threader dops not work when you use the side-cutter

"""—■*-—_^^ Thread

Meedie

"-*-<**.fc

£30

£50

»100

«120

H9

X

X

X

O

o

0

£1 1

X

X

O

O

o

■

H14

X

o

O

0

•

•

o

o

•

-

■

•

01 6

018

•

206

•

24. NEEDLE THREADER (EXCHANGE) How to exchange needle threader t. Remove needle and lower ihe presser tool. 2. Push down needle threader 10 take oui

3. Place new one so thai guide is immediately under the guide pin.

4. Push needle threader all ihe way up so that guide is placed in the pm

Take Out

25. NEEDLE THREADER (CHECKING THE HOOK POSITION) STANDARD

l.The clearance between the top of hook and the top ol needle eye is 0

2 Threading is capable when needle is locaied higher than 8 mm from the needle plate.

Needle

CHECK Case A

Hook position is too high Case B

Hook posmon is ioo Jow. (Hook enters needle eye but it :atches bottom part ol needle eye.)

0 v 201

X

Hook

26. NEEDLE THREADER (ADJUSTMENT OF HOOK POSITION) ADJUSTMENT

Case A [Hook pO'nt is too high) 1. Remove (ace plate and loosen the screw.

2. Adjust needle threader slightly down and check the clearance between the top of hook and top of needle eye is zero.

3. Check if par! (a) and par! (6) is in line. Case B (Hook point is too to-wl

Adjust needle threader slightly up and check the clearance between the top of hook and lop of needle eye is zero Note

In case part (a) and part (6) is not in line, hook does noi work. Adjust needle threader by loosening the screw.

Needle bat

Needle itmrader

208

ONNECTORS TABLE 'n display connectc

nch length line adimimenl boa'd

SiaM/iioo & leve'sa nuch connecioi

Miin D'inied crcu't board

gin linear actuator conneciof switch connector

. -n.

t

?How to adjust electric elements POWER SUPPLY supply SWilCh

Secondary voltage of transformer (P13)

Terminals

AC Voltage

1—7

about 15.5V

4-7

15.5V

9-11

about 13.0V

• Cord *eet unit & Power supply switch 1. Take out cord feel unit from machine. 2. Take oui power supply switch connector A and transformer connector B 3. Turn the power supply switch on.

4. Measure the resistance between terminal 1 & 3 on connector A.

=, No

Exchange power supply switch

1. Insert power supplv plug to outlet

2. Measure the voltage between terminal 1 & 3 on connecior B.

Exchange cord reel unit j

Notes

for circuit & main motor

for lamp

Transformer (Secondary Voltage)

1

1. Connect U anslormer connector Band takeout circuit board cover.

Fit cord reel unit to the machine. 2. Take out face plate and Iron! cover

3. Disconnect transformer connector PI 3 from common circuit board.

4 Insert power supply plug to outlet and turn the power supply switch on.

5. Measure the AC voltage between terminal 1 & 7 A & 7 and 9 & 1 1 on the connector 13.

Yes

Check other portions

1. Turn ihe power supply switch o" and conned connector PI 3.

2. Turn the power supply switch on. 3. Measure DC + 1 7.5V and DC-1 7.5V.

No 1. Turn the power supply switch 0(1. 2. Disconnect

Measure DC ±5v.

main

motor

connector

Pi 8

and

linear

actuator connector PS & P9 Irom circuit board. Internal resistance

?-Refer ©

Main motor connector PI 8 1 -2

on page 62.

about 2 .on

Linear actuator connector PS & P9 1 -2 about 8 .50

Disconnect connector P6 (lor rotation & N P. sensor). P8 (for linear actuator) and P9 (for linear actuator) from mam circuit board.

Yes

No

Exchange main motor and/ot linear actuator

Conned

connector

to main circuit board.

P6

Exchange mam cifcuit board units.

i

Exchange main circuit board units. Exchange rotat'on/N.P sensor.

Yes

e linear actuator

210

Turn the lamp switch on

}. fl between P3 connecvot ((or Samp) 81 GMO = «? R between P7 connector (for lamp swiich) & GND = «»? 2. R of P3 connector = 34~38n?

No

3. R of P7 connector at lamp switch on = 1 D?

R ol P7 connector at lamp switch off = «°? Yes

(

Normal

j

No

Exchange tamp, lamp switch

Exchange main circuit

or lead wire

board units.

Note:

' R" stands lor resistance. "GND1 stands for frame ground (It is connected lo "O'V) "00" stands for infinite resistance.

>. WHEN POWER SUPPLY IS ON, ZIGZAG STITCH IS NOT INDICATED BY LED Check if the power supply is normal.

No

(

Exchange mam circuit board units.

Refer to item 1 'POWER SUPPLY" on page 209

)

PATTERN SELECTION O Flow chan 1 (Movement of machine when pallern selecting switch is depressed)

3

Shilling to utility mode

Paite'fi selecting v%>iMm <s pane

IQI

ffi selecting out ol n»mo'v\

ini

211

J

3-1. Pattern display is not moved when pattern selection switch is depressed

1. Turn the power supply switch off.

2. Disconnect

connector

PI

from

circuit

board.

3. Measure R between terminal 4 and 5 on P-1 R between terminal 4 and 7 on P-1

No

-5-/ Exchange start/slop switch unit

Disconnect connector P14 Measure R between terminal 1 and 2 on PI

No

( Exchange main circuit board units

■( Exchange fool controller jack

)

3-2. Memory mode is not selected when pattern display change lever is moved to right

Check the

1. Disconnect connector PJO (or side-cutter

fitting position of

micro-switch.

Switch.

(Refer to page

194)

2. Turn power supply switch on and shifi pattern display change lever to right.

Yes

Memory mode is selected?

1-Disconnect

connector

PI 7

for

•{

Exchange side-cutter switch.

J

Exchange micro switch

J

micro

switch and shift pattern display change lever to fight.

2 Measure R between terminal 1 & 2 on PI 7

?•( ( Exchange main c>'cui[ board unils

)

212

~'\

3-3. Other patterns than the ones for side-cutter are selected when side-cutter is attached

1. Attach side-cutter to the tubular arm. 2. Remove connector PIO. 3. Measure R between terminal 1 & 2 on PlO

*•(

(

Exchange main circuit board units.

Exchange side-cutter switch

j

)

MAIN MOTOR Flow chart 2 (Movement of machine when start/stop button or foot controller is depressed) OFF

Positions ol buttonhole change lever.

presser (001 and feed dog ate coneci'

Motor is revoluting at setting speed?

Yes Motor is fevoluting at set

point? Yes The revolution is stopped and warning

ts made by buzier for 5 seconds.

213

4-1. Main motor does not rotate when start/stop switch is depressed Disconnect connector P1 and measure the

Warning 15 made by buiie^J

resistance between terminal 4 8, 7 on PI

Yes

while start/stop button is depressed.

Turn Ihe balance wheel both clockwise and counterclockwise.

Yes

( Exchange start/stop unit ~)

Turn the volume VR1 for adjusting lowesi speed

clockwise as far as it will go. (Refer to page 199

/Exchange main circi \^ board units.

motor >*

SO't/siop Sw.tch is 0"

Yes r/ Adjust the lowest speed. (Refer to page 199) J

Disconnect connector

PI 8

Measure the resistance

between two terminals on Pi 8.

es ->f Exchange main motor J

Exchange main circuit board units

j

4-2. Machine stops with warning buzzer in a second after it runs

Make the check as same as (a) on page 2M

Roianon & N P

No

jhu

are ooa

R

■y Adjust the rotation/N.P. shutter j

io Dag* l')7)

( Exchange N.P. circuit board. J

4-3. Out of speed controt

Disconnect connecior Pi 2 and measure the resistance between terminal 1 & 2 on Pi2.

\

Exchange main circuit board units

214

J

Exchange main

)

5. MAIN MOTOR STOP O Flow chart 3 (movement when stopping machine)

Set the machine at its lowest speed.

( Main moior Slop

O The relation of position between N.P. sensor & N.P. shutter. (Refer to page 197) When N.P. sensor is blocked by N P. shutter

Needle-up position

When N.P. sensor is opened from N.P. shutter

■■- Needle-down position

-1. Main motor does not stop Adjust R.P.M. at the Jowesi speed by turning VR1 (Refer to page 39)

Adjust needle stop speed, (flefter to page

200)

Yes

Normal condition? ——■

<

Finish

NO

(

Exchange mam circuit board unns

J

>-2. Needle stop position (UP/DOWN) is incorrect Turn balance wheel by hand Too much torque Ad|uJt mechanical poMions

Adjust the position of N P. shutter. (Refer io page 197)

Adjust the lowest speed

[Refer io page \<)1))

needle slop speed (Reter to page 200)

(

Exchange main cncuM board uniis.

)

215

6, PATTERN GENERATION O Flow chart 4 No

Horizontal feed link is

moved.

Needle bar is moved.

O Timing chart (Needle highest position « 0°) Need'e-uo position

n posiiion

Block

10*

■ N.P. shutter |lo< delecting needle slop position)

Non-block

160*

"0*

\ 180'

Needle-up position pulse

Needie-uD pos'tion pulse

Non-block Floiauon shutlnr ((Of delecting pattern putse

790'

feed

Non-locking

120'

260'

"LOCK MECHANISM" is operated to hold horizontal feed link mechanically during fabric is led V Homonial feed link is hold ai locked posiiion.

2. Horizontal feed Nnk is free at non-locked position and position of horizontal feed link can be moved by linear actuator, which means teed volume can be changed.

6-1. Zigzag width is not correct Turn the power supply switch off and move needle bar right and left by hand.

Adjust mechanical

No

portion

No

Adjust rotation jhutlBr.

Rl

lo page

197

Disconnect connector P8 and measure the resist ance between lerminal 1 a 2.

^

Exchange linear actuator unit,

j

->■( Exchange linear actualof unit,

j

Measure the resistance between terminal 3 & 4 on P8 while needle bai is moving.

No

Exchange main circuit boaid uniis

216

6-2. Stitch length is not correct Check following points: height of feed dog (reler to page 196) pressure lever, brake timing for feed regulator (refer to page 198) forward sntch

length (VR6 & VR3. refer to page 202) forward & back stitch length for super automatic pattern (VR7. rafer to page 202)

*/Adjust (refer to page 197)")

Disconnect connector P9 and measure the resist ance between terminal 1 & 2.

No

3 = about 8.50.

-( Exchange linear actuator unit, j

-*■—

Yes

Measure the resistance between terminal 3 & A while feed regulating mechanism is operated.

*■{ Exchange linear actuator unit J

C

Exchange mam circuit board units.

)

O Flow chart 5 (Buttonhole)

Movement Movement

©

©

Movement Movement

©

[f

ri

■JJ

-il

217

©

Movement

©

6-3. Buttonhole is not obtained (Different length of fight and left leg) Buttonhole lever is fully pushed backward ar far 3S it will go?

Let BHSW lever work by hand to make buttonhole

«■/ Adjust the position of BH lever. [Refer to page

Machine is automatically

slopped alte<

No V Disconnect connecioi P2. 2. Measure the resistance between terminal 1

& 2 and 2 S. 3 while 8H lever is pushed back.

( Exchange BH switch, j Yes

Measure the resistance between terminal 1 & 2 and 2 & 3 while BH lever is pushed forth.

No

-5>/ Exchange BH switch J

Yes

(

Exchange main circuit board units.

J

7. MAL-WARNING VOICE IS NOT MADE

No

Disconnect connector PI 6

-*•( Exchange switches or sensors. )

Measure the

resistance be I wee" terminal 1 & 2 on PI 6.

No

( Exchange mam circuit board units. )

218

■^=/ Exchange speaker )

Repairing

Sewing Machines