Interweave Make It Knits Special Issue 2014.pdf

, from the editors of Interweave Knits <

new

Make it!

33

®

KNITS

Quick, Easy, Cool

knits

Big Z yarns! Z

from worsted to bulky

FALL STYLE

L hats L cowls L shawls

LEARN

Knitting Basics How to Substitute Yarn

+ more!

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SIMPLE, SOPHISTICATED

Knitted Garments

Heather Zoppetti 144 pages, $24.99 ISBN 13: 9781620331354

Full of simple garments and accessories for everyday life, this book will become your new favorite! In this collection of 18 garments and accessories, using lace motifs for edging is only the beginning. Join Heather Zoppetti as she shows you how lace can be easily incorporated into feminine garments meant for daily wear: as a simple panel insert, as edgings and bands, and in an increasingly all-over manner. Hidden among the collection of lovely garments is a thorough introduction to the basics of lace knitting, including various cast-ons and bindoffs appropriate for lace knitting.

Order online at www.InterweaveStore.com

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Contents

features 04 15 34 57

Make it! Knits 2014

Knitting Pattern Basics A Guide to Reading Charts

Ann Budd

Knitting in the Round Karen Frisa

How Much Yarn Do I Need?

Lori Gayle

projects 06 ALAMEDA COWL

62 FLAMBOYANT SHAWL

08 LODI CARDIGAN

64 MIXT COWL

10 VICTOR SHAWL

66 OVERDYED RAGG SCARF

12 EAST HALE CARDIGAN

68 AMSTEL HAT

18 BRAZEL BERET

70 NEDERLAND CIRCLE SCARF

20 GRAND PALAIS SHAWL

72 AMY’S SLIPPERS

22 A SIGN OF AFFECTION HAT

74 EMERSON HAT

24 MANGANESE COWL

76 BRYONY CAP

26 AMPLIFIED COWL

78 RIBBY SLIPPER SOCKS

28 SOLSTICE SCARF

80 FLASH MITTS

30 WAVED WRAP

82 TWEED SCARFLET

36 MOUNTAIN ASH PULLOVER

84 INSIGNIA SHAWL

38 OANA SHAWL

86 SERPENTINE COWL

Jocelyn J. Tunney Tanis Gray

Ruth Garcia-Alcantud Alexis Winslow Katya Frankel Tanis Gray

Caitlin ffrench Betty Chang

Kate Gagnon Osborn Cheryl Beckerich Cheryl Beckerich

Melissa J. Goodale Kirsten Kapur

Maria Leigh Cirilia Rose

Nancy Shroyer

Courtney Kelley

Cecily Glowik MacDonald Amy Palmer

Erica Jackofsky

Tammy Eigeman Thompson Cathy Carron Amy Polcyn

Sarah Fama

Cecily Glowik MacDonald Angela Hahn

42 KNUCKLE DOWN MITTS Erica Jackofsky

44 BIG THOMPSON SCARF Christa Giles

46 VERONICA SLOUCH Brenda K. B. Anderson

50 WAVY LACE CAPELET Cecily Glowik MacDonald

52 LEADVILLE COWL

depts 02 STRANDS 92 GLOSSARY 95 PROJECT INDEX

Annie Watts

54 THREE’S A CHARM TAM Catherine Shields

60 AMBROSIA COWL Katya Frankel

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ON THE COVER:

Amstel Hat, page 68. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE HANCOCK

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strands Welcome to this brand-new special issue from Interweave! These projects and articles collect some

of the best simple, quick knits from Interweave Knits and Knitscene magazines. We wanted to put together a collection for newer knitters and for knitters who seek out projects for the yarns they buy most— worsted- to bulky-weight yarns that are easy to substitute. If you’re like me, you have a stash of odds and ends, precious yarns from fiber festivals, bags of wool bought at discount, homeless skeins that are waiting for the right pattern to come along. This issue is for you! All the patterns provide full yarn information, including the standard yarn weight and an estimated yardage, so that you can easily pick and choose from your stash or the sale bin at your favorite shop. If you’re new to reading knitting charts (page 15), working in the round (page 34), or determining yarn needs for a project (page 57), we’ve got you covered with educational tutorials on these topics. I hope you enjoy this collection of fun and fabulous knits. If you’re unfamiliar with the Interweave family of knitting products, check us out at www.knittingdaily.com. We offer magazines, books, video tutorials, a free newsletter, and so much more. Happy knitting!

Make it!

KNITS

EDITORIAL

Editorial Director Karin Strom Editor Lisa Shroyer Managing Editor Allison Mackin Assistant Editor Hannah Baker Senior Project Editor Joni Coniglio Project Editor Holly Priestley Technical Editors Tracey Davidson, Karen Frisa, Larissa Gibson, Robin Melanson Copy Editor Nancy Arndt Knitting Daily Editor Kathleen Cubley CREATIVE SERVICES

Designer Bekah Thrasher Senior Production Designer Dean Howes Project Photography Individually Credited Illustration Gayle Ford, Marjorie Leggitt MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Advertising Manager Diane Kocal

Lisa Shroyer

Ad Trafficker Mary Lutz Classified Advertising Stephanie Griess

FOUNDER, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Linda Ligon VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Shahla Hebets VICE PRESIDENT, CONTENT Helen Gregory VICE PRESIDENT, MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald BOOKS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Allison Korleski DESIGN TEAM MANAGER Larissa Davis SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER Nancy Pollock ECOMMERCE MARKETING MANAGER Evelyn Bridge DIRECTOR, MAGAZINE MARKETING & FULFILLMENT Mark Fleetwood ONLINE CIRCULATION SPECIALIST Jodi Smith

F+W, A Content + eCommerce Company CHAIRMAN & CEO David Nussbaum

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER & CFO James Ogle PRESIDENT Sara Domville CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER Chad Phelps VICE PRESIDENT, ECOMMERCE Lucas Hilbert SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Phil Graham VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNICATIONS Stacie Berger

F+W MEDIA INC. COLORADO OFFICE 4868 Innovation Drive • Fort Collins, Colorado 80525-5576 • (800) 272-2193

Enjoy the entire family of Interweave fiber magazines

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VISIT US ON THE WEB

knittingdaily.com • interweave.com • fwmedia.com 2 Make it! Knits 2014

Marketing Manager, eCommerce Annie Hartman Bakken

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at interweaveknits.com/corrections. Make it! Knits does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Make it! Knits. Nor does Make it! Knits evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Make it! Knits. Make it! Knits is a special issue of Interweave Knits® (ISSN 1088-3622) published annually by Interweave, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576. (800) 272-2193. USPS #017-249. All contents of this issue of Make it! Knits are copyrighted by F+W Media Inc., 2014. All rights reserved. Visit the Interweave website at interweave.com. For advertising information, call Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120, email [email protected], or visit the website at interweave.com. For sales information, call (800) 272-2193, email sales@

interweave.com.

For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email knits@

interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576.

Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store, please call (866) 949-1646, email sales@ interweave.com.

Join Vickie Howell for another great season of how-to television!

SERIES 1300 IS NOW AIRING!

Purchase the entire 13th series on DVD or download all 13 episodes instantly. Visit KnittingDailyTV.com.

BACK to the CS BASI

Knitting Pattern Basics

Here are the basic techniques and concepts you need to know to make the projects in this issue. For more knitting help, see the glossary on page 92.

Skill Level Beginner Projects for first-time knitters. Easy Projects using basic stitches and simple shaping and finishing. Intermediate Projects with a variety of stitch patterns and more complex construction and shaping methods.

Knitting Needle Sizes The size of the needle affects the size of your stitches—this is very important. In the United States, we use a simple numerical system for sizing needles, starting at 000 and going up to 50. The rest of the knitting world uses the metric system for sizing needles, based on the diameter of the needle in millimeters. The patterns in this magazine give you both sizes, listed like this: Size 7 (4.5 mm) That’s the U.S. size, then the metric size. You can use straight needles, circular needles, or double-pointed needles, depending on the project and your preference, but make sure you use the right size needle.

Picking a Yarn for Your Project You can use the specific yarns listed in a pattern or choose your own. Before buying yarn, here’s what you need to know: • Always take your pattern with you to the yarn shop or craft store 4 Make it! Knits 2014

• You can’t just pick any yarn to make your project • Certain yarn weights (or thicknesses) match certain needle sizes • A certain yarn weight + a certain needle size will make a certain stitch gauge • To make a project, you need to aim for the stitch gauge listed in the pattern, or your project will end up a different size and the fabric will look different

* . . . ; rep from * • when you see this combination of asterisk and semicolon, it’s shorthand for telling you to repeat something, e.g., “*k2, p2; rep from * 4 times” tells you to work the k2, p2 sequence a total of 5 times. end with a WS row • the last row you work should be a wrong-side row. The next row will be a right-side row. end with a RS • the last row you work should be a right-side row. The next row will be a wrong-side row. with RS facing • as you hold your knitting ready to knit, you’ll be looking at what will be the right side of your project. place marker • markers are used to help you keep track of groups of stitches. To place a marker, put a purchased marker (a little ring) or tie a piece of yarn on your needle, work the next stitch, and carry on. Whenever you come to the ring, simply slip it from the left needle to the right needle. bind off in patt • as you bind off stitches, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl ones.

There are seven basic yarn weights (see chart at right). Each pattern in this magazine will tell you the basic yarn weight of the project; use this info to get help at your yarn shop. You can tell the shop owner “I need a DK weight” and she’ll be able to help you right away. If you go to a big craft store, look at the recommended needle sizes on the yarn labels. If the needle size matches the size in the pattern, it’s a safe bet the yarn will work for your project.

every other row • sometimes your pattern will tell you to work an increase or decrease every so often. Most patterns ask you to work decreases or increases on right-side rows. Every other row means working the increases or decreases on every right-side row; every fourth row means you’ll work the increase or decrease on the first row, work 3 rows even, then on the next row (right side), work the increase or decrease again.

Pattern Lingo

Cast On

work even, work even in patt • continue what you are doing without increasing or decreasing. You’ll often find this phrase right after you’ve worked the armhole shaping (bind off and decreases).

To get started, you need to make stitches—this is called casting on. The most basic method is called the long-tail cast-on. You need a ball of yarn and one needle to cast on. See glossary for this technique.

work stitches as they appear • this means that if the next stitch looks like a knit stitch, you knit it, and if it looks looks like a purl stitch, you purl it.

Bind Off To get the knitting off the needles, you need to bind off the stitches. See glossary for this technique.

Seaming and Sewing Many patterns will require you to seam edges together. Mattress stitch is the best method for sewing knitted edges together—you can sew the side edges or the cast-on and bind-off edges together with mattress stitch. You can also use mattress stitch to sew stockinette stitch and garter stitch fabrics.

Mattress Stitch for Garter Stitch Step 1: Lay the two pieces next to each other, right sides facing up. Thread a tapestry needle with a length of yarn at least three times as long as the area you are sewing. Step 2: Working from the bottom up, weave the seaming yarn from front to back on the bottom corner of one piece and then, from back to front, bring it through the bottom corner on the other piece (Figure 1). Pull the yarn snugly to join the bottom edges. Step 3: Insert the needle from bottom to top into the purl bump of a side stitch on one side. Bring the needle up through the bottom edge of the slightly higher

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

stitch on the other piece. Continue sewing on alternate sides in this fashion until you finish the seam (Figure 2). Pull tightly, and the two pieces should join seamlessly. Weave the yarn end into the seam for a few inches.

Mattress Stitch for Stockinette Stitch Step 1: Lay the two pieces next to each other, right sides (smooth sides) facing up. Thread a tapestry needle with a length of yarn at least three times as long as the area you are sewing. Step 2: Working from the bottom up, weave the seaming yarn from front to back on the bottom corner of one piece and then, from back to front, bring it through the bottom corner on the

Figure 4

other piece as for seaming garter stitch (Figure 3). Pull the yarn snugly to join the bottom edges. Step 3: Insert the needle under the two horizontal “bars” between the first two stitches from the edge on one side of the seam and then under the two corresponding bars on the other piece (Figure 4). Continue sewing on alternate sides in this fashion, pulling the yarn every so often in the direction of the top of the seam. When finished, pull tightly, and the two pieces should join seamlessly! Weave end back into the seam for a few inches.

CYCA Standard Yarn Weight System Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle sizes YARN WEIGHT SYMBOL & CATEGORY NAMES TYPE OF YARNS IN CATEGORY

Fingering

KNIT GAUGE 33–40** sts RANGE* IN STOCKINETTE STITCH TO 4 INCHES

Sock, Fingering, Baby

Sport, Baby

DK, Light Worsted

Worsted, Afghan, Aran

Chunky, Craft, Rug

Bulky, Roving

27–32 sts

23–26 sts

21–24 sts

16–20 sts

12–15 sts

6–11 sts

RECOMMENDED NEEDLE IN METRIC SIZE RANGE

1.5–2.25 mm

2.25–3.25 mm

3.2–3.75 mm

3.75–4.5 mm

4.5–5.5 mm 5.5–8 mm

8 mm and larger

RECOMMENDED NEEDLE U.S. SIZE RANGE

000 to 1

1 to 3

3 to 5

5 to 7

7 to 9

11 and larger

9 to 11

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle sizes for specific yarn categories. ** Laceweight yarns are usually knitted on larger needles to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. See more at www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html.

knittingdaily.com 5

Brad Bartholomew

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

AlamedaCowl by Jocelyn J. Tunney

sing increases and decreases makes the fabric skew in a spiraling diagoU nal in this fun accessory. This easy project works up quickly in a worstedweight yarn with fairly basic knitting skills.

1

2

Size 25" long and 9" tall Yarn #4 Medium Weight – Worsted, about 400 yards Shown Here O-Wool Classic Worsted (100% certified organic merino; 99 yd [90 m]/50 g): • #4401 barn, 4 skeins Gauge 14 sts and 23 rnds = 4" in St st Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" circular (cir) needle • Size 7 (4.5 mm) or smaller spare cir needle • Markers (m) • Waste yarn for provisional CO • Tapestry needle • Eight ⅞" buttons

k4, sl m, M1, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, k2. Rnd 2 Knit. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 until piece measures 23½" from CO, ending with Rnd 2. Buttonholes: Rnd 1 K2, sl m, k2tog, [k2, k2tog] 8 times, k4, M1, sl m, k4, sl m, M1, k3, k2tog, [k2, k2tog] 7 times, k3, ssk, sl m, k2—68 sts rem. Rnd 2 K2, sl m, k4, yo, [k3, yo] 7 times, k5, sl m, k4, sl m, k5, yo, [k3, yo] 7 times, k4, sl m, k2—84 sts. Rnd 3 K2, sl m, k2tog, knit to m, M1, sl m, k4, sl m, M1, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, k2. Rnd 4 Knit. Rep last 2 rnds once, then work Rnd 3 once more. Do not BO.

Close tube: Weave in ends. Place 42 sts onto spare needle. With WS tog, join end of tube tog using three-needle BO. Remove provisional CO, placing 42 sts onto cir needle and 42 sts onto spare needle. With WS tog, join end of tube tog using three-needle BO.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Handwash in cold water with gentle detergent; block flat to dry. Sew buttons near CO end of tube opposite buttonholes. Find Jocelyn J. Tunney online: www.o-wool.com.

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Cowl

Using a provisional method, CO 84 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Set-up rnd K2, pm, k38, pm, k4, pm, k38, pm, k2. Rnd 1 K2, sl m, k2tog, knit to m, M1, sl m, knittingdaily.com 7

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Joe Coca

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Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Lodi Cardigan by Tanis Gray

nit a top-down raglan cardigan with garter-stitch elements and K knitted-in buttonholes—and no seaming! This quick knit is a classic in a trans-seasonal worsted weight.

Yoke

Sizes 31¼ (35¼, 39¼, 43¼, 47¼)" bust; shown in size 31¼" Yarn #4 Medium Weight – Worsted, about 700–1100 yards Shown Here Classic Elite Yarns Solstice (70% organic cotton, 30% wool; 100 yd [91 m]/ 50 g): • #2381 brass button, 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins Gauge 16 sts and 24 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle • Size 7 ( 4.5 mm): 24" cir needle • Size 7 (4.5 mm): set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Tapestry needle • Six ¾" buttons • Markers (m)

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

Notes L Cardigan is worked from the top down. L Buttonholes and bands are worked

simultaneously with the body. The first buttonhole is worked ½" down from cast-on edge. Work buttonholes every 31⁄2 (33⁄4, 4, 4, 41⁄4)" after the first buttonhole, with the last one being worked 1½" up from the bind-off edge.

Body

even in patt until piece measures 9" from underarm. [Work 2 rows in garter st. Work 2 rows in St st] 3 times. Change to larger cir needle and work even in patt (St st with garter edges) until piece measures 13" from underarm. Change to smaller cir needle and work in garter st for 1". BO all sts pwise.

Sleeves

Transfer 49 (53, 59, 63, 67) held sleeves to dpn. CO 3 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts at underarm, knit around sleeve, pm, and join in the rnd—52 (58, 64, 70, 74) sts total. Shape sleeve: Dec 1 st each side of m every 5th rnd 6 times—40 (46, 52, 58, 62) sts rem. Work even in St st until piece measures 5½" from underarm. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 3 rnds] 3 times. Work even in St st until piece measures 10" from underarm. [Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd] 5 times. BO all sts pwise.

Finishing

Sew underarm seams. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew buttons to right-front band, opposite buttonholes. Find Tanis Gray online: www.tanisknits.com.

Change to smaller cir needle and work 6 1⁄2 (7, 8, 8 1⁄2 , 9 1⁄2)" 13 (14 1⁄2 , 16, 171⁄2 , 18 1⁄2)"

1 1⁄2 (1 1⁄2 , 1 3⁄4 , 1 3⁄4 , 1 3⁄4)"

body 14"

Stitches

Buttonhole: (worked over 5 garter sts of left-front band) (RS) K2, yo, k2tog, k1.

11"

10 (11 1⁄2 , 13, 14 1⁄2 , 15 1⁄2)"

2

6 (6 1⁄2 , 71⁄4 , 8, 8 1⁄2)"

1

With smaller cir needle, CO 78 (82, 94, 98, 106) sts. Do not join. Work in garter st (knit every row) for 1". Change to larger cir needle. Next row (RS) K13 (14, 16, 17, 19), place marker (pm) for front, k13 (13, 15, 15, 15), pm for sleeve, k26 (28, 32, 34, 38), pm for back, k13 (13, 15, 15, 15), pm for sleeve, k13 (14, 16, 17, 19). From this point, first and last 5 sts of every row will be worked in garter st for front bands, with buttonholes worked along left front (see Notes and Stitches). Row 1 (WS) K5, purl to last 5 sts, k5. Row 2 (RS) *Work to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo; rep from * 3 more times, work to end—8 sts inc’d. Rep last 2 rows 17 (19, 21, 23, 25) more times—222 (242, 270, 290, 314) sts: 31 (34, 38, 41, 45) sts for each front, 49 (53, 59, 63, 67) sts for each sleeve, 62 (68, 76, 82, 90) sts for back. Work 1 WS row even. Divide body and sleeves: (RS) *Work to sleeve m, place sleeve sts on holder, CO 3 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts with backward-loop for underarm; rep from * once, work to end—130 (146, 162, 178, 194) sts rem for body.

30 3⁄4 (34 3⁄4 , 38 1⁄2 , 421⁄2 , 46 1⁄2)"

31 1⁄4 (35 1⁄4 , 39 1⁄4 , 43 1⁄4 , 471⁄4)"

knittingdaily.com 9

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Hats Y

Victor Shawl by Ruth Garcia-Alcantud

big and cozy shawl starts with a picot edge at the bottom, transitions into A garter stitch shaped with short-rows, and finishes with an easy lace pattern. This project requires some intermediate skills, but on size 15 needles, it goes quickly!

k on RS, p on WS yo k2tog

using short-rows as foll: *Knit to last 5 sts, wrap next st, turn; rep from * once more. *Knit to 5 sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn; rep from * 17 more times—12 sts rem unwrapped in center. Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Next row (WS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Work Rows 1–18 of Edging chart. BO all sts as foll: K2, *transfer both sts back to left needle, k2tog, k1; rep from * to end.

k on RS, p on WS

ssk

yo

pattern repeat

k2tog ssk Edging pattern repeat

15 13 11

Finishing 1

2

Size 56" wide and 13" tall Yarn #6 Super Bulky, about 270 yards Shown Here Blue Sky Alpacas Bulky (50% alpaca, 50% wool; 45 yd [41 m]/100 g): • #1218 azalea, 6 skeins Gauge 8 sts and 20 rows = 4" in garter st Tools • Size 15 (10 mm): 46" circular (cir) needle • Tapestry needle See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Shawl

Using the cable method, CO 4 sts, BO 2 sts, sl rem st to left needle, *CO 5 sts, BO 2 sts, sl rem st to left needle; rep from * 33 more times—104 sts on left needle. Do not join. Inc row (RS) K1, yo, knit to last st, yo, k1—2 sts inc’d. Next row Knit. Rep last 2 rows 3 more times—112 sts. Knit 4 rows. Shape shawl

10 Make it! Knits 2014

17

Block shawl to measurements. Weave in ends.

9

Find Ruth Garcia-Alcantud online: www.rockandpurl.com.

5

7

3 1 10 st repeat

Harper Point Photography

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Brad Bartholomew

Make it! Knits

Z Intermediate Y

East Hale Cardigan by Alexis Winslow

trong details elevate a simple men’s sweater. An offset shoulder seam, garter S trim, I-cord edging, shawl collar, and top-down sleeves make for subtle style. Though the knitting itself is simple and quick, this pattern requires intermediate construction techniques, as well as short-rows. 1

2

3

Sizes 37½ (41¼, 45¼, 49)" chest circumference, closed; shown in size 41¼" Yarn #4 Medium – Aran, 950–1400 yards Shown Here Cascade Yarns Ecological Wool (100% undyed Peruvian Highland wool; 478 yd [437 m]/ 250 g): • #8019 antique, 2 (3, 3, 3) skeins Gauge 16½ sts and 22½ rows = 4" in St st on larger needles Tools • Size 9 (5.5 mm): 36" circular (cir) needle • Size 9 (5.5 mm): set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 8 (5 mm): 36" cir needle • Size 8 (5 mm): set of dpn • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle • 20" separating zipper • Sewing pins • Sewing needle and matching thread See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Notes L The garter-stitch border has a different

row gauge than the stockinette-stitch body, so short-rows are used to compensate and help the border lie flat. L Short-rows are also used to shape the sleeve cap, but the wraps should not be worked with the wrapped stitches. L Slip all stitches of I-cord edging purlwise with yarn in back. L Work short-row wraps together with wrapped stitches when you come to them.

Body

With smaller cir needle, CO 154 (170, 186, 202) sts. Do not join. Set-up row (RS) Sl 3 (I-cord edging; see Notes), k5, place marker (pm), k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 8 sts, pm, k5, p3 (I-cord edging). Rows 1, 3, and 5 (WS) Sl 3, k5, sl m, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to m, k5, p3. Rows 2 and 4 Sl 3, k5, sl m, k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to m, k5, p3. Row 6 (Short-row sequence) Sl 3, k5, wrap next st, turn. (WS) K5, p3, turn. (RS) Sl 3,

k5, knit next st and wrap tog, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to m, k5, p3, turn. (WS) Sl 3, k5, wrap next st, turn. (RS) K5, p3. Rep Rows 1–6 two more times. Change to larger cir needle. * Next row (WS) Sl 3, k5, purl next st and wrap tog, purl to m, k5, p3. Next row (RS) Sl 3, k5, knit to m, k5, p3. Rep last 2 rows once more, then rep WS row once more. Next row (Short-row sequence) Sl 3, k5, wrap next st, turn. (WS) K5, p3, turn. (RS) Sl 3, k5, knit next st and wrap tog, knit to m, k5, p3, turn. (WS) Sl 3, k5, wrap next st, turn. (RS) K5, p3. Rep from * until piece measures 16" from CO, ending with 1 WS row after short-row sequence. Divide for armholes: (RS) Sl 3, k5, sl m, k28 (31, 34, 38) and place 118 (131, 144, 156) rem sts on a holder (keeping m in place)—36 (39, 42, 46) sts rem for right front.

Right Front

Shape armhole: Rows 1, 3, and 5 (WS) Purl to m, k5, p3. Row 2 (Dec row) Sl 3, k5, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 st dec’d.

4¼ (4¾ , 5¼ , 6)" 6¼ (6¾ , 6¾ , 7¼)" 4¼ (4¾ , 5¼ , 6)"

5¼"

2¾"

6 (6, 7, 7)"

6½ (6¾ , 7½ , 7¾)"

left front

back

body

14½ (15½ , 17½, 18½)"

3¼ (3½ , 4, 4½)"

right front 20¼"

sleeve

16"

7¾ (8¾ , 8¾ , 9¾)" 37 (40¾ , 44¾ , 48½)"

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Z Intermediate Y

Make it! Knits Row 4 (Dec row and short-row sequence) Sl 3, k5, wrap next st, turn. (WS) K5, p3, turn. (RS) Sl 3, k5, knit next st and wrap tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 st dec’d. Row 6 Rep Row 2—1 st dec’d. Rep Rows 1–6 once more, then rep Rows 0 (1–2, 1–4, 1–6) once—30 (32, 34, 37) sts rem. Next row (WS) Rep Row 1. Next row Sl 3, k5, knit to end. Next row Rep Row 1. Next row (Short-row sequence) Sl 3, k5, wrap next st, turn. (WS) K5, p3, turn. (RS) Sl 3, k5, knit next st and wrap tog, knit to end. Beg collar and neck edge shaping: Work 3 rows even, cont border at edge. Next row (Inc row and short-row sequence) Sl 3, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before m, k1f&b, wrap next st, turn. (WS) Knit to last 3 sts, p3, turn. (RS) Sl 3, knit to m, sl m, knit wrap tog with st, ssk, knit to end—1 st inc’d. Rep last 4 rows 3 more times—34 (36, 38, 41) sts: 18 (20, 22, 25) shoulder sts; 16 collar sts. Cont collar shaping: Work 3 rows even. Next row (Inc row and short-row sequence) Sl 3, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before m, k1f&b, wrap next st, turn. (WS) Knit to last 3 sts, p3, turn. (RS) Sl 3, knit to end, working wrap tog with st when you come to it—2 sts inc’d. Rep last 4 rows 4 (5, 5, 6) more times—44 (48, 50, 55) sts: 18 (20, 22, 25) shoulder sts; 26 (28, 28, 30) collar sts. Work even until armhole measures 9½ (10½, 11½, 12½)", ending with a RS row; about 1½ (1¾, 2, 2¼)" of front at armhole will fall to back of shoulder when seams are joined. Next row (WS) BO all sts pwise to m, remove m, knit to last 3 sts, p3—26 (28, 28, 30) sts rem. Back of collar: Next row (RS) Sl 3, knit to end. Next row (WS) Knit to last 3 sts, p3. Rep last 2 rows until collar section measures 2¾" from shoulder BO, ending with a WS row. Place sts on a holder. Break yarn.

Back

With RS facing and working from right to left, transfer 6 (8, 10, 10) sts onto a separate holder for underarm, transfer 70 (76, 82, 90) sts onto larger cir needle. Leave rem 42 (47, 52, 56) sts on their holder. With WS facing, join yarn and work as foll: Shape armholes: Row 1 (WS) Purl. Row 2 (Dec row) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 5 (6, 7, 8) more times—58 (62, 66, 72) sts rem. Work even in St st for 24 (24, 26, 26) rows, ending with a RS row. Armhole measures about 6½ (6¾, 7½, 7¾)". Shape

14 Make it! Knits 2014

shoulders: Next row (WS) P1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1—2 sts dec’d. Next row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 8 (9, 10, 11) more times, then WS row 0 (0, 0, 1) time—22 sts rem. BO all sts.

section measures 2¾" from shoulder BO, ending with a RS row. Place sts on holder. Break yarn, leaving a 1 yd tail. Graft collar pieces using Kitchener st and long tail. Sew front shoulders and collar to back shoulders and neck.

Left Front

Sleeves

With RS facing, starting at right side, transfer 6 (8, 10, 10) sts from holder onto separate holder, then transfer rem 36 (39, 42, 46) sts onto larger cir needle. With RS still facing, join yarn and work as foll: Next row (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, p3. Shape armhole: Rows 1 and 3 (WS) Sl 3, k5, purl to end. Row 2 (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, p3—1 st dec’d. Row 4 (Dec row and short-row sequence) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, p3, turn. (WS) Sl 3, k5, wrap next st and turn. (RS) K5, p3—1 st dec’d. Row 5 (WS) Sl 3, k5, purl next st and wrap tog, purl to end. Row 6 (RS) Rep Row 2—1 st dec’d. Rep Rows 1–6 once more, then rep Rows 0 (1–2, 1–4, 1–6) once—30 (32, 34, 37) sts rem. Next row Rep Row 1. Next row (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, p3. Next row Rep Row 1. Next row (Short-row sequence) Knit to last 3 sts, p3, turn. (WS) Sl 3, k5, wrap next st and turn. (RS) K5, p3. Beg collar and neck edge shaping: Next row Sl 3, knit to m, purl next st and wrap tog, purl to end. Work 2 rows even. Next row (Inc row and short-row sequence) Knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, sl m, k1f&b, knit to last 4 sts, k1f&b, p3, turn. (WS) Sl 3, knit to m, wrap next st and turn. (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, p3—1 st inc’d. Rep last 4 rows 3 more times—34 (36, 38, 41) sts: 18 (20, 22, 25) shoulder sts; 16 collar sts. Cont collar shaping: Next row Sl 3, knit to m, purl next st and wrap tog, purl to end. Work 2 rows even. Next row (Inc row and shortrow sequence) Knit to m, sl m, k1f&b, knit to last 4 sts, k1f&b, p3, turn. (WS) Sl 3, knit to m, wrap next st and turn. (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, p3—2 sts inc’d. Rep last 4 rows 4 (5, 5, 6) more times—44 (48, 50, 55) sts: 18 (20, 22, 25) shoulder sts; 26 (28, 28, 30) collar sts. Work even until armhole measures 9½ (10½, 11½, 12½)", ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) BO all sts kwise before m, remove m, knit to last 3 sts, p3—26 (28, 28, 30) sts rem. Back of collar: Next row (WS) Knit to last 3 sts, p3. Next row (RS) Sl 3, knit to end. Rep last 2 rows until collar

Note: The front shoulder pieces are longer than the back; the shoulder seam is not at the top of the shoulder but lies on the back. To determine the top of the shoulder, place a marker in the center of the sts on holder at bottom of armhole, with 3 (4, 5, 5) sts on each side of marker. Lay the cardigan flat on a table with the marker on the side fold. Place another marker at the fold for the shoulder line. Fold the piece in half the other way, with markers touching and centered between halves of the armhole. Place markers at new folds to divide the armhole into four equal parts. With larger dpn, beg at underarm m, k3 (4, 5, 5) from holder, pick up and knit 12 (12, 13, 14) sts along armhole to first quarter m, 15 (16, 18, 19) sts evenly between each of next 2 m, then 12 (12, 13, 14) sts along rem armhole edge, knit rem 3 (4, 5, 5) sts from holder—60 (64, 72, 76) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Short-rows (RS) K40 (43, 48, 51), wrap next st and turn. (WS) P20 (22, 24, 26), wrap next st and turn. (RS) K21 (23, 25, 27), wrap next st and turn. (WS) P22 (24, 26, 28), wrap next st and turn. Cont short-row shaping, working 1 more st at end of each row, until 6 (8, 10, 10) underarm sts rem. Next row (RS) Knit to beg-of-rnd m. Cont working in the rnd. Knit 5 (5, 3, 3) rnds. Dec rnd Ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 6 (6, 5, 5) rnds 13 (13, 17, 17) more times—32 (36, 36, 40) sts rem. Work even until sleeve measures 17". Change to smaller dpns. Next rnd *K2, p2, rep from * around. Rep last rnd 18 more times. BO all sts loosely in rib.

Finishing

Weave in ends. With sewing needle and thread, sew zipper to fronts keeping I-cord edging ⅛" from zipper teeth. On inside, sew edge of zipper tape to WS. Block. Find Alexis Winslow online: www.knitdarling.com.

BACK to the CS BASI

Making Sense of Symbols

A Guide to Reading Charts by Ann Budd Many beginning knitters pale at the sight of a knitting pattern, temporarily paralyzed by the seemingly complicated abbreviations and symbols (k2tog, ssk, brackets, parentheses, asterisks, . . .). But most knitters quickly realize that pattern language is actually quite simple; rather than an unbreakable code, it is truly a useful shorthand. Curiously, however, many knitters never make the jump to following charted patterns, failing to understand how logical and, yes, easy to follow, they really are. Charts have several advantages over row-by-row knitting instructions written out in words: They let you see at a glance what’s to be done and what the pattern will look like knitted; they help you recognize how the stitches relate to one another; and they take up less space than written instructions. These days, more and more patterns are being charted instead of written out row-by-row, and that means it is more important than ever to learn how to read them. Once you add this skill to your repertoire, your choices as a knitter expand nicely.

The Anatomy of a Chart Charts are a visual representation of a knitted fabric viewed from the right side. Charts are plotted on graph paper so that one square represents one stitch and one horizontal row represents one row of knitting. The symbols or colors in the squares indicate how to work each stitch. For colorwork charts, the colors represent yarn colors; for texture work, the symbols represent stitch manipulations. Unless otherwise specified, charts are read from the bottom to the top, right to left for right-side rows, and left to right for wrong-side rows. When knitting in the round (where the right side of the knitting is always facing out), all

rows are read from right to left. Most charts, including the ones in Make it! Knits, are plotted on a square grid. Because knitted stitches tend to be wider than they are tall, motifs worked from such charts will appear squatter in the actual knitting than they appear on the grid. To avoid this discrepancy when designing your own project, you can use proportional knitter’s graph paper (available at knitting stores). Symbols: Though not all publications use exactly the same symbols (for example, some use a horizontal dash to denote a purl stitch, others use a dot), for the most part, the symbols represent

what the stitches look like when viewed from the right side of the knitting. Symbols that slant to the left represent left-slanting stitches. Symbols that slant to the right represent right-slanting stitches. Notice how the symbols in the charts on page 16 mimic the stitches in the knitted fabrics. Because charts are presented as viewed from the right side only, most symbols represent two different maneuvers—one for right-side rows and another for wrong-side rows. For example, for stockinette stitch, you knit the stitches on right-side rows and purl them on wrong-side rows. However, charted stockinette stitch shows only the right, or knit, side. A list of the most common symbols and their right- and wrong-side definitions is presented in the box on page 16. No stitch: Many stitch patterns, especially lace, involve increases or decreases that cause the stitch count to rise or fall, thereby requiring the number of boxes in a chart to vary from one row to the next. For some patterns, these variations are simply represented by uneven chart edges. For other patterns, adding or subtracting boxes at the edge of a chart may disrupt the vertical stitch alignment. In these cases, a special symbol for “no stitch” is used within the center of the chart. These symbols accommodate “missing” stitches while they maintain the vertical integrity of the pattern. In Make it! Knits, missing stitches are represented by gray shaded boxes. When you come to a shaded box, simply skip over it and continue to the end of the row as if it doesn’t exist. Row numbers: Rows are numbered along the side of most charts, especially long or complicated ones. Row numbers appearing along the right edge denote right-side rows to be read from right to left. Row numbers appearing along the left edge denote wrong-side rows to be read from left to right. For example, if the number 1 is on the right edge of the chart, that and all subsequent oddnumbered rows are right-side rows; all even-numbered rows are worked from knittingdaily.com 15

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the wrong side (from left to right). With few exceptions, charts in Make it! Knits designate Row 1 as a right-side row. For some patterns, this necessitates a “set-up row” be worked prior to the first row of the chart to get the stitches in the necessary sequence of knits and purls. Pattern repeats: All charts show at least one pattern repeat. If the repeat is complex, more than one repeat is charted to help you see how the individual motifs look adjacent to each other. In row-by-row instructions, pattern repeats are flanked by asterisks or square brackets. On charts, these repeats are outlined in heavy or colored boxes, or they’re annotated at the lower or upper edge of the chart. Some patterns that are worked back and forth in rows require extra stitches to balance a charted pattern. In rowby-row instructions, such patterns are reported as repeating over a multiple of a number of stitches plus extra stitches (i.e., balanced 2x2 ribbing worked back and forth is a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2). On charts, these balancing stitches appear at the right and left margins of the chart, with the repeat clearly marked

in between. On right-side rows, work from right to left, working the stitches on the right edge once, then the repeat as many times as necessary, and end by working the stitches on the left edge once. On wrong-side rows, work from left to right, working the stitches on the left edge once, the repeat box as many times as necessary, and end by working the stitches on the right edge once. Charts for multisized garments will most likely have different numbers of edge stitches for the different sizes. Read the instructions and chart carefully, and be sure to begin and end as specified for the size you are making.

Helfpul Hints L If a chart is so small or complicated

that it causes your eyes to strain, copy it onto larger graph paper or make a photocopy enlargement. If the chart involves colorwork and you don’t have access to a color photocopier, use colored pencils or markers to color in the appropriate boxes. L Keep your place while working a chart by holding a straightedge or row finder on the chart and using a row counter on your knitting needle.

Common Chart Symbols & Definitions right side: knit wrong side: purl right side: purl wrong side: knit right side: k2tog wrong side: p2tog right side: k3tog wrong side p3tog right side: ssk wrong side: ssp right side: sl 2 sts individually, k1, p2sso; wrong side: p2tog and place st on left needle, pass next st over this st, return st to right needle M

Make 1 yarn over

b

work through back loop of stitch no stitch Right cross: place specified number of sts onto cable needle and hold in back, knit specified number of sts, knit specified number of sts from cable needle Left cross: place specified number of sts onto cable needle and hold in front, knit specified number of sts, knit specified number of sts from cable needle

Comparing Charts & Swatches

Notice how the stitches mimic the chart symbols in this simple lace pattern.

pattern repeat

The chart symbols for cables indicate the direction of the cable-twists. 11

11

9 7

9

5

5

3

3

1

1

7

pattern repeat

16 Make it! Knits 2014

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'

Think of a knitting chart as a short-hand or cartoon representation of the knitted fabric. Each square represents one stitch. The shapes and slants of the symbols imitate the shapes and slants of the knitted stitches.

'

You can place the straightedge either above or below the row you’re working on; placing it on the row above will let you see how the stitches relate to the previous row (the one you just knitted). Once you’ve worked a couple of repeats from the chart, you may be able to look at your knitting rather than the chart to figure out what comes next. L If you plan to design a sweater or other piece around a charted design, be sure to center the design over the center stitch of the piece. Otherwise, you will end up with a partial repeat at one edge that isn’t mirrored at the other. Ann Budd is an author and knitting teacher. Find her online: www.annbudd knits.com.

The Solstice Scarf (see page 28) features a simple charted lace pattern.

Traditional techniques for modern sensibilities. New Vintage Lace combines traditional knitted lace techniques with modern style featuring 18 gorgeous patterns adapted from vintage doilies. Challenge your lace knitting abilities with New Vintage Lace and start knitting beautiful shawls, hats, wraps and more! Andrea Jurgrau covers the knitty gritty details for new lace knitters while still engaging seasoned knitters. Included is a ‘recipe’ to create your own vintage pattern adaptations.

Andrea Jurgrau 160 Pages, $24.99 ISBN 13: 9781620331002

Order online at InterweaveStore.com. knittingdaily.com 17

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Harper Point Photography

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Brazel Beret by Katya Frankel

ables, bobbles, and lace make a singular panel in this modern C slouchy hat. Work in the round from the bottom up with a dreamy worsted weight singles yarn.

1

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Sizes 16 (17¾, 19½, 21¼)" brim circumference; shown in size 17¾" Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 210 yards Shown Here Malabrigo Rios (100% superwash merino, 210 yd [192 m]/100 g): • #96 sunset, 1 skein Gauge 18 sts and 26 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needles. Lace chart = 3¼" wide Tools • Size 6 (4 mm): set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 7 (4.5 mm): set of dpn • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle • Cable needle (cn) See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

rnd *K2, M1; rep from * to end—108 (120, 132, 144) sts. Change to larger needles. Body: Next rnd K36 (40, 44, 48), pm, work Rnd 1 (9, 5, 1) of Lace chart over 16 sts, pm, knit to end. Cont in patt as established through chart Rnd 12, then rep Rnds 1–12 of chart 1 (2, 2, 2) more times. Crown: Set-up rnd K2tog, k16 (18, 20, 22), pm, k2tog, k16 (18, 20, 22), sl m, work Rnd 1 of Crown chart over 16 sts, sl m, k2 (4, 6, 8), [pm, k2tog, k16 (18, 20, 22)] 3 times—102 (114, 126, 138) sts rem. Dec rnd [K2tog, knit to m, sl m] 2 times, work next rnd of Crown chart to m, sl m, [knit to m, sl m, k2tog] 3 times, knit to end—6 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd 3 more times—78 (90, 102, 114) sts rem. Next rnd [K2tog, knit to m, sl m] 2 times, work final rnd of Crown chart, remove m, [knit to m, sl m, k2tog] 3 times, knit

Finishing

With tail threaded on yarn needle, draw tail through rem sts and pull to gather. Secure tail to WS. Weave in ends and block lightly.

Find Katya Frankel online: www.katyafrankel.com. knit Bobble: [knit into front, back, and front] all in the same st; turn, p3; turn, k3tog—1 st rem.

k2tog knit

ssk

Bobble: [knit into front, back,

yo

and front] all in the same st;

Lace

turn, p3; turn, k3tog—1 st rem.

sl 3 sts onto cn, hold to back, k1, k3 from cn

k2tog

sl 1 st onto cn, hold to front, k3, k1 from cn

ssk

Crown

yo

11

sl 3 sts onto cn, hold to back, k1, k3 from cn sl 1 st onto cn, hold to front, k3, k1 from cn

Hat

Brim: With smaller needles, CO 72 (80, 88, 96) sts, place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib until piece measures 1¼ (1½, 1¾, 2)" from CO. Next

to end—72 (84, 96, 108) sts rem. Next rnd *K2tog, knit to m, sl m; rep from * to end—6 sts dec’d. Rep last rnd 9 (11, 13, 15) more times—12 sts rem. Cut yarn leaving a 6" tail.

5

9

3

7 5

1 beg on 16 sts

3 1 16 sts

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Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Grand Palais Shawl by Tanis Gray

orked mostly in knit stitches with shaping along the edge, this bulky shawl is W finished with a lace edging that is joined to the body by picking up stitches and working k2togs. You should know how to work basic lace stitches.

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Size 74" wide and 25" deep at center point, including lace edging Yarn #6 Super Bulky, about 520 yards Shown Here Tahki Yarns Montana (100% wool; 130 yd [120 m]/100 g): • #1 natural, 4 hanks Yarn distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc. Gauge 8 sts and 20 rows = 4" in garter st on smaller needle Tools • Size 13 (9 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle • Size 15 (10 mm): Two double-pointed needles (dpn) • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Shawl

With cir needle, CO 3 sts. Knit 8 rows. Next row K1f&b, k1, k1f&b—5 sts.

20 Make it! Knits 2014

Z

Inc row K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep last 9 rows 16 more times—39 sts. Knit 8 rows. Dec row K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 9 rows 17 more times—3 sts rem. BO all sts. Lace border: With cir needle, CO 9 sts. Beg at bottom of one end of shawl, work lace border up left side as foll: Row 1 (RS) K1, yo, k2tog, p1, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog. Row 2 (WS) P7, yo, p2tog, sl 1 kwise, pick up and knit 1 st from outer loop at edge of shawl, psso. Row 3 K1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog. Row 4 P8, yo, p2tog, sl 1 kwise, pick up and knit 1 st from outer loop at edge, psso. Row 5 K1, yo, k2tog, p1, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog. Row 6 P9, yo, p2tog, sl 1 kwise, pick up and knit 1 st from outer loop at edge, psso. Row 7 K1, yo, k2tog, p1, k3, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog. Row 8 P10, yo, p2tog, sl 1 kwise, pick up and knit 1 st from outer loop at edge, psso. Row 9 K1, yo, k2tog, p1, k4, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog. Row 10 P11, yo, p2tog, sl 1 kwise, pick up and knit 1 st from outer loop at edge, psso. Row 11 K1, yo, k2tog, p1, k8, k2tog. Row 12 BO 4 sts, p5, yo, p2tog, sl 1 kwise, pick up and knit 1 st from outer loop at edge, psso. Rep these 12 rows 22 more times. BO loosely. Applied I-cord border: With dpn and starting at bottom right edge of shawl, not including border, CO 3

sts. *K2, sl 1 kwise, pick up and knit 1 st from edge, psso, do not turn, slide sts to opposite end of dpn; rep from * along right edge of shawl. BO and attach to lace edging at top edge.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Find Tanis Gray online: www.tanisknits.com.

Brad Bartholomew

Harper Point Photography

Make it! Knits

by Caitlin ffrench

quirky fitted hat is worked in the round with knits, purls, short-rows, and A decreases--and just one earflap! This one-skein project would be great for a variegated yarn.

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Size 10½" circumference, relaxed; stretches to 19" Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 200 yards Shown Here SweetGeorgia Superwash Worsted (100% superwash merino; 200 yd [183 m]/115 g): • black plum, 1 skein Gauge 18 sts and 24 rnds = 4" in St st Tools • Size 8 (5 mm): 16" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)

• Markers (m) • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Hat

Z

Using the long-tail method, CO 72 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd *K3, p3; rep from * around. Rep last rnd 2 more times. Shape earflap using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) K3, p3, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) K3, p3, sl m, wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 3 K3, p3, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 P1, k3, p3, sl m, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 5 P1, sl m, k3, p3, k1, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 6 P2, k3, p3, sl m, k1, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 7 P2, sl m, k3, p3, k2, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 8 P3, k3, p3, sl m, k2, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 9 P3, sl m, k3, p3, k3, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 10 K1, p3, k3, p3, sl m, k3, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 11 K1, p3, sl m, k3, p3, k3, p1, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 12 K2, p3, k3, p3, sl m, k3, p1, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 13 K2, p3, sl m, k3, p3, k3, p2, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 14 [K3, p3] 2 times, sl m, k3, p2, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 15 K3, p3, sl m, [k3, p3] 2 times, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 16 P1, [k3, p3] 2 times, sl m, k3, p3, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 17 P1, k3, p3, sl m, [k3, p3] 2 times, k1, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 18 P2, [k3, p3] 2 times, sl m, k3, p3, k1, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 19 P2, k3, p3, sl m, [k3, p3] 2 times, k2, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 20 P3, [k3, p3] 2 times, sl m, k3,

p3, k2, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Next row (RS) P3, k3, p3, sl m, [k3, p3] 2 times, k3, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, work in rib to last 10 sts, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, p3, k3, p3. Work in k3, p3 rib over all sts until piece measures 5½" from CO, measured away from earlap. Shape crown: Note: Change to dpn when necessary. Rnd 1 *Work 10 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—66 sts rem. Rnd 2 *Work 9 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—60 sts rem. Rnd 3 *Work 8 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—54 sts rem. Rnd 4 *Work 7 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—48 sts rem. Rnd 5 *Work 6 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—42 sts rem. Rnd 6 *Work 5 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—36 sts rem. Rnd 7 *Work 4 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—30 sts rem. Rnd 8 *Work 3 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—24 sts rem. Rnd 9 *Work 2 sts, p2tog; rep from * to end—18 sts rem. Rnd 10 *Work 1 st, p2tog; rep from * to end—12 sts rem. Rnd 11 *P2tog; rep from * to end—6 sts rem.

Finishing

Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread tail through rem sts and fasten off. Weave in ends. Caitlin ffrench can be found online at www .wewilltellyouallofoursecrets.blogspot.ca.

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Z Easy Y

A Sign of Affection Hat

Harper Point Photography

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Manganese Cowl by Betty Chang

ractice your increase and decrease skills in this otherwise simple cowl. WorkP ing in the round with a combination of knits, purls, and stitch count changes makes a plush and cozy accessory. Rnd 13 *[P2tog] 8 times, [k1f&b] 8 times; rep from * around. Rnds 14–25 *P8, k16; rep from * around. Rnd 26 *[K1f&b] 8 times, [p2tog] 8 times; rep from * around. Rep Rnds 1–26 for patt.

Cowl

CO 96 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Purl 2 rnds. Next rnd *[K1f&b] 8 times, p8; rep from * around—144 sts. Work Rnds 1–26 of egg carton patt (see

1

Stitches) once, then work Rnds 1–25 once more. Next rnd *P8, [p2tog] 8 times; rep from * around—96 sts rem. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts pwise.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block lightly. Find Betty Chang online: www.bindingoff .blogspot.com.

2

Size 25" circumference and 8" tall Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 260 yards Shown Here Shibui Merino Alpaca (50% merino, 50% baby alpaca; 131 yd [120 m]/100 g): • #2017 velvet, 2 skeins Gauge 23 sts and 28 rows = 4" over egg carton patt Tools • Size 8 (5 mm): 20" circular (cir) needle • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Stitches

Egg Carton Pattern: (multiple of 24 sts) Rnds 1–12 *K16, p8; rep from * around.

knittingdaily.com 25

Make it! Knits

Z Intermediate Y

Amplified Cowl by Kate Gagnon Osborn

graphic lace stitch goes dramatic when worked in a plush, airy chunkyA weight yarn. This pattern requires working in the round, chart reading, and lace knitting. Lace chart 5 times—100 sts. Work Rnds 2–8 of chart. Work Rnds 9–24 three times. Dec rnd [P3, p2tog, p11, ssp (see Glossary), p2] 5 times—90 sts rem. [Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd] 2 times. Knit 1 rnd. BO all sts pwise.

Finishing

Block. Weave in ends.

Find Kate Gagnon Osborn online: www.kelbournewoolens.com.

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2

3 Lace

Size 27½" circumference and 12¼" high. Yarn The Fibre Company Tundra (60% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 10% silk; 120 yd [110 m]/100g): • snowdrift, 2 skeins Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens. Gauge 14½ sts and 23 rnds = 4" in Lace chart. Tools • Size 10 (6 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

knit

23

purl

21

yo

19

k2tog

work 3 times

17 15

ssk

13

pattern repeat

11 9

Z

7 5

Cowl

CO 90 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 4 times. Rnd 1 Work 18-st (inc'd to 20-st) rep of 26 Make it! Knits 2014

3 1 18 to 20 st repeat

Joe Hancock

Harper Point Photography

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Solstice Scarf by Cheryl Beckerich

his generously sized scarf is worked on size 10 needles for both instant T gratification and instant warmth. The simple charted pattern consists of yarnovers, knits, purls, and decreases.

1

2

Size 72" long and 10" wide. Yarn #5 Bulky, about 385 yards Shown Here Cascade Yarns 128 Chunky (100% wool; 128 yd [117 m]/100 g): • #9454 purple mist, 3 skeins Gauge 13½ sts and 16 rows = 4" in lace chart patt. Tools • Size 10 (6 mm) needles See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Scarf

CO 34 sts. Knit 2 rows. Work Lace chart until piece measures 71" from CO, ending with a RS row. Knit 2 rows. BO all sts kwise on a WS row.

Finishing

k on RS; p on WS

yo

k on WS

p2tog

Lace

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

11

Find Cheryl Beckerich online: www.cherylbeckerichknits.com.

9 7 5 3 1 34 sts

knittingdaily.com 29

Joe Hancock

Make it! Knits

Z Intermediate Y

Waved Wrap by Cheryl Beckerich

scrunchy stitch pattern gives reversible warmth to a cozy rectangular A shawl. This pattern is more advanced, but lets you play with some fun and unusual techniques. another. Place a different color removable marker on each side to indicate the right side or wrong side. L The Scrunch Stitch is worked every 9, 13, or 17 rows. Since the repeat is worked over an odd number of rows, it alternates from one side of the shawl to the other. See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Stitch Guide

1

2

3

Size 68" long, 16½" wide at each end, and 22½" wide at center. Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 1000 yards Shown Here Kolláge Solace (70% alpaca, 30% silk; 91 yd [83 m]/50 g]: • #7710 seaport, 11 skeins Gauge 18 sts and 20 rows = 4" in St st. Tools • Size 8 (5 mm): 24–32" circular (cir) needle • Two removable m, each a different color • One double-pointed needle (dpn) at least two sizes smaller than main needle • Tapestry needle

Notes L This shawl is reversible and has no

right side or wrong side. However, in the instructions the rows are designated as right side (RS) or wrong side (WS) to distinguish them from one

Scrunch Stitch [worked over 3 (4, 5) sts] [SS3 (4, 5)]: Fold left needle toward you so that opposite side of work is visible. Insert dpn from top to bottom into purl bump of st 6 rows below the 4 (5, 6) th st on left needle, then insert dpn in same way into next 2 (3, 4) bumps to the left—3 (4, 5) sts on dpn. Raise dpn up and hold in back of and parallel to left needle. [Insert right needle kwise into st on front needle, then into st on back needle (this st will be twisted) and k2tog] 3 (4, 5) times.

Shawl

CO 80 sts. Edging: Row 1 (WS, see Notes) Purl to last 4 sts, k4. Row 2 (RS) P4, knit to end. Row 3 Rep Row 1. Body: Rows 1–8 P4, [k6, p6] 6 times, k4. Row 9 P4, [SS3 (see Stitch Guide), k3, p6] 6 times, k4. Rep last 9 rows 5 more times, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) P4, *k1, k1f&b, k2, k1f&b, k1, p1, p1f&b, p2, p1f&b, p1; rep from * once more, [k6, p6] 4 times, k4—88 sts. Work even in patt for 11 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) P4, [SS4, k4, p8] 2 times, [SS3, k3, p6] 4 times, k4.

Inc row (WS) P4, [k6, p6] 2 times, *k1, k1f&b, k2, k1f&b, k1, p1, p1f&b, p2, p1f&b, p1; rep from * once more, [k8, p8] 2 times, k4—96 sts. Work even in patt for 11 rows, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) P4, [SS3, k3, p6] 2 times, [SS4, k4, p8] 4 times, k4. Inc row (RS) P4, [k8, p8] 4 times, k1, k1f&b, k2, k1f&b, k1, p1, p1f&b, p2, p1f&b, p1, k6, p6, k4—100 sts. Work even in patt for 11 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) P4, [SS4, k4, p8] 5 times, SS3, k3, p6, k4. Work even in patt for 12 rows, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) P4, SS3, k3, p6, [SS4, k4, p8] 5 times, k4. Work even in patt for 12 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) P4, [SS4, k4, p8] 5 times, SS3, k3, p6, k4. Work even in patt for 12 rows, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) P4, SS3, k3, p6, [SS4, k4, p8] 5 times, k4. Inc row (RS) P4, *[k2, k1f&b] 2 times, k2, [p2, p1f&b] 2 times, p2; rep from * once more, [k8, p8] 3 times, k6, p6, k4—108 sts. Work even for 15 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) P4, [SS5, k5, p10] 2 times, [SS4, k4, p8] 3 times, SS3, k3, p6, k4. Inc row (WS) P4, k6, p6, k8, p8, *[k2, k1f&b] 2 times, k2, [p2, p1f&b] 2 times, p2; rep from * once more, [k10, p10] 2 times, k4—116 sts. Work even in patt for 15 rows, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) P4, SS3, k3, p6, SS4, k4, p8, [SS5, k5, p10] 4 times, k4. Inc row (RS) P4, [k10, p10] 4 times, [k2, k1f&b] 2 times, k2, [p2, p1f&b] 2 times, p2, k1, k1f&b, k2, k1f&b, k1, p1, p1f&b, p2, p1f&b, p1, k4—124 sts. Work even in patt for 15 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) P4, [SS5, k5, p10] 5 times, SS4, k4, p8, k4. Work even in patt for 16 rows, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) P4, SS4, k4, p8, [SS5, k5, p10] 5 times, k4. Work even in patt for 15 rows, ending knittingdaily.com 31

Z Intermediate Y

Make it! Knits with a RS row. Dec row (WS) P4, k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1, [k2, k2tog] 2 times, k2, [p2, p2tog] 2 times, p2, [k10, p10] 4 times, k4—116 sts rem. Next row (RS) P4 [SS5, k5, p10] 4 times, SS4, k4, p8, SS3, k3, p6, k4. Work even in patt for 15 rows, ending with a WS row. Dec row (RS) P4, [k10, p10] 2 times, *[k2, k2tog] 2 times, k2, [p2, p2tog] 2 times, p2; rep from * once more, k8, p8, k6, p6, k4—108 sts rem. Next row (WS) P4, SS3, k3, p6, [SS4, k4, p8] 3 times, [SS5, k5, p10] 2 times, k4. Work even in patt for 15 rows, ending with a RS row. Dec row (WS) P4, k6, p6, [k8, p8] 3 times, *[k2, k2tog] 2 times, k2, [p2, p2tog] 2 times, p2; rep from * once more, k4—100 sts rem. Next row (RS) P4, [SS4, k4, p8] 5 times, SS3, k3, p6, k4. Work even in patt for 12 rows, ending with a RS row.

32 Make it! Knits 2014

Next row (WS) P4, SS3, k3, p6, [SS4, k4, p8] 5 times, k4. Work even in patt for 12 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) P4, [SS4, k4, p8] 5 times, SS3, k3, p6, k4. Work even in patt for 12 rows, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) P4, SS3, k3, p6, [SS4, k4, p8] 5 times, k4. Work even in patt for 11 rows, ending with a RS row. Dec row (WS) P4, k6, p6, k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1, [k8, p8] 4 times, k4—96 sts rem. Next row (RS) P4, [SS4, k4, p8] 4 times, [SS3, k3, p6] 2 times, k4. Work even in patt for 11 rows, ending with a WS row. Dec row (RS) P4, [k8, p8] 2 times, *k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1; rep from * once more, [k6, p6] 2 times, k4—88 sts rem. Next row (WS) P4, [SS3, k3, p6] 4 times, [SS4, k4, p8] 2 times, k4. Work even in patt for 11 rows, ending with

a RS row. Dec row (WS) P4, [k6, p6] 4 times, *k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1; rep from * once more, k4—80 sts rem. Next row (RS) P4, [SS3, k3, p6] 6 times, k4. Rows 1–8 P4, [k6, p6] 6 times, k4. Row 9 P4, [SS3, k3, p6] 6 times, k4. Rep last 9 rows 5 more times, ending with a RS row. Rep Rows 1–8 once more, ending with a RS row. Edging: Row 1 (WS) P4, knit to end. Row 2 Purl to last 4 sts, k4. Row 3 Rep Row 1. BO all sts in patt. Find Cheryl Beckerich online: www.cherylbeckerichknits.com.

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BACK to the CS BASI

Knitting in the Round How to join and knit small circumferences

by Karen Frisa

Double-Pointed Needles

Joining in the Round Once your stitches are cast on, you will need to join them into a circle. Hold the knitting with the working yarn coming from the needle in your right hand—it will be attached to your last cast-on stitch (Figure 1). When you use that yarn to work the first stitch on the needle in your left hand (your first cast-on stitch), the stitches in your right hand are joined to the stitches in your left hand. You can see this happen: After you work that first stitch, pull on the working yarn and watch the stitches snug up beside each other. After that first stitch, your work is joined in the round. Sometimes you’ll notice some looseness at the join. This generally disappears after a few rounds.

Joining without a Twist Instructions will often contain some variant of “join, being careful not to twist stitches.” “Twist” in this case means spiraling or wrapping the cast-on edge around the needle. Use the small ridge

Figure 1

that forms at the base of the cast-on to determine whether the cast-on is twisted. Push the ridge toward the center of the circle and make sure that it hasn’t wrapped around the needle. The loops of the stitches should run along the top of the needle without interference. If you’re working with double-pointed needles, check for twists in the spots where the double-points meet, too. It can be tricky to tell whether your cast-on is twisted, especially if the stitches are scrunched up on your needle; they tend to ruffle. Consider working a row or two before joining. If you do this, you will need to sew a short seam during finishing to join the flat knitting.

Working Methods When I first started working with circular needles, I thought that if I was making a sweater that measured 40", I needed a 40" long needle. While this will work, it’s much easier to move the stitches along a shorter needle. A 24"

Figure 2 Figures 1 and 2: Joining the work in the round on a circular needle and double-points.

34 Make it! Knits 2014

circular is easily long enough to work a 40" sweater in the round. But what if you’re knitting a narrow tube, such as an 8" sock? Many methods can be used to work small tubes in the round: double-pointed needles, a short circular needle, two circular needles, or one long circular. Don’t let the method chosen by the designer keep you from working a piece just because you’d prefer a different method. In the end, it’s all just stitches in a circle.

Double-points, or dpn, were the primary method of knitting small-circumference tubes for a long time. With doublepoints, several needles (usually 3 or 4, see Figure 2) are used to hold the stitches and another needle is used to work the stitches. The stitches are often distributed evenly onto the needles. If working a stitch pattern, place whole repeat(s) of the pattern onto each needle. For working socks, place the instep stitches onto one needle and divide the sole stitches between another two. This is especially helpful if you’re working one stitch pattern on the instep and another on the sole. The “short” and “long” needles also make it easy to see the beginning of the round. It’s easiest to cast all of the stitches onto one needle (a dpn, a spare circular, or straight needle), then slip them onto the double-points to distribute them. If you try to cast some stitches onto one dpn then more onto another, it can be difficult to make a nice transition between the needles. When working with double-points, it’s not uncommon for “ladders,” or columns of loose stitches, to form between

Figure 3 Figure 3: Working with two circular needles

the needles. To remedy this, work the first stitch of a needle like normal. To work the second stitch, insert the right needle into the stitch as usual, then, before wrapping the yarn around the right needle, pull on the working yarn. Pull hard enough to feel the previous needle snug up against the new needle. Keep the yarn taut while wrapping it around the right needle to form the new stitch. Finish this stitch as usual. Doing this for the second stitch on every needle will prevent ladders. If you feel like you have a lot of needles to juggle, remember that you only need to focus on the two that you’re using to knit; the others are just acting as short-term stitch holders. Orient your working needles either above or below the others so that you’re able to move them freely. The other needles should not get in your way (much).

Two Circulars

Short Circulars

This method is closely related to the two-circulars method. With this method, half of the stitches are placed onto the needle, then a loop of the cable is pulled out and left without stitches, then the rest of the stitches are placed onto the needle. The stitches are divided in half, just like they are with the twocirculars method, but they’re arranged on the two tip ends of one long needle, held parallel (Figure 4). Before starting to work across the stitches, the tip held in back is pulled to the right, allowing you to use that tip to knit across the stitches on the front tip. As you’re working across the stitches, you actually have two loops: one at each end of the groups of stitches (Figure 5). Some people use a 36" needle for this method, but I find it uncomfortable

For me, anything shorter than a 16" circular is “short.” Short circulars come in 12", 9", and even 8" lengths. These needles are challenging to work with because the solid noncable part of the needle is much shorter than most needles. (It needs to be short so that the ends can meet in a circle.) But once you’re comfortable with them, the work goes very quickly; no stopping to switch double-points, find the other end of a circular, or pull out loops—just keep knitting around! To develop proficiency with these needles, experiment with different ways of holding them. Try angling the tips away from you or pointing them toward the ceiling or floor to see if the position is more comfortable for you.

The two-circular method has been popularized in recent years. With this method, half of the stitches are placed onto one circular needle and the rest are placed onto another (Figure 3). The key to this method is to use both ends of the same needle to work across the stitches on that needle. After working across the stitches, drop both ends of the needle, pick up both ends of the other needle, and use them to work across the stitches on that needle. The two needles do not have to be the same length. I find it easier to select the correct needle tip if the lengths are different. A 16" and a 24" are convenient, and these are also the two sizes you’d most likely need to make a sweater, so the set does double duty.

One Long Circular AKA “Magic Loop”

Figure 5

Figure 4

Figure 4: Stitches arranged on one longer circular before joining in the round. Figure 5: Using the back needle tip to work across the front tip; the cable of the needle makes a loop at each end.

with a needle shorter than 40". Some interchangeable needle sets will let you join cables together (or come with long cables). This arrangement makes the magic loop method much easier.

Placing a marker Usually a ring marker is placed on the right needle to mark the beginning of round. It’s slipped from the left needle to the right needle at the end of every round. This method works well when using one circular needle, but when working with double-pointed needles or two circulars, the stitch marker will fall off the needle. Instead, you can mark the beginning of round by noting where the cast-on tail hangs and always keep the stitches on the same needles (don’t shift them around). It’s usually easy to follow up from the cast-on tail to see which needles it falls between. Other options: • place the marker one stitch in from the beginning of round • place a removable marker (such as a coilless safety pin) in your work just below the beginning of round and move it up the work as needed • shift the stitches so that the beginning of the round is not at the beginning of a needle; you can then use a ring marker and it will stay in place

L Note that if you have a ring marker

on your needle and you stop at the end of a round, the marker will fall off. Instead, stop one stitch before or one stitch after the end of the round.

References Bordhi, Cat. Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles. Friday Harbor, Washington: Passing Paws Press, 2001. Galeskas, Bev. The Magic Loop. East Wenatchee, Washington: Fiber Trends, 2002. KAREN FRISA works as a freelance technical editor for Interweave and other companies, and she teaches at Stitches events around the country and at her LYS, K2TOG.

knittingdaily.com 35

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Mountain Ash Pullover by Melissa J. Goodale

his women’s pullover uses solid and variegated yarns to create dynamic T stripes. Tubular cast-ons and bind-offs make for a new learning experience, as well as clean edges. If you can work in the round and work basic shaping, you can knit this sweater.

Notes L This pullover is worked in the round from the top down.

L Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in back unless indicated otherwise.

Yoke

2

Sizes 35 (39, 43, 47, 51)" bust circumference; shown in size 35" Yarn #4 Medium - Worsted in 2 colors Shown Here Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Worsted (100% merino; 225 yd [206 m]/114 g): • Grant Park (MC), 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) skeins • Washington (CC), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Gauge 18 sts and 22 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needle Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 8 (5 mm): 16" and 24" cir needles and set of dpn • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Waste yarn • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

24 (24, 25¼ , 25¼ , 26¾)" 13 (13¾ , 15½ , 16½ , 18¼)" 8½ (9, 9½ , 10½ , 11½)"

1

With smaller cir needle, MC, and using the tubular method for k1, p1 ribbing, CO 108 (108, 114, 114, 120) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for ¾". Change to larger cir needle. Next rnd With CC, *sl 1 (see Notes), k1; rep from * around. With CC, knit 6 rnds. Inc rnd With CC, *k3, M1; rep from * around—144 (144, 152, 152, 160) sts. With CC, knit 2 rnds. Next rnd With MC, *k1, sl 1; rep from * around. With MC, knit 1 rnd. Next rnd With CC, *sl 1, k1; rep from * around. With CC, knit 2 rnds. Inc rnd With CC, *k4, M1; rep from * around—180 (180, 190, 190, 200) sts. With CC, knit 2 rnds. Next rnd With MC, *k1, sl 1; rep from * around. With MC, knit 3 rnds. Next rnd With CC, *sl 1, k1; rep

from * around. With CC, knit 3 rnds. Next rnd With MC, *k1, sl 1; rep from * around. With MC, knit 2 rnds. Inc rnd With MC, *k5, M1; rep from * around—216 (216, 228, 228, 240) sts. With MC, knit 2 rnds. Next rnd With CC, *sl 1, k1; rep from around. With CC, knit 1 rnd. Next rnd With MC, *k1, sl 1; rep from* around. With MC, knit 2 rnds. Inc rnd With MC, k0 (0, 0, 0, 3), *k36 (9, 6, 4, 3), M1; rep from * to last 0 (0, 0, 4, 3) sts, k0 (0, 0, 4, 3)—222 (240, 266, 284, 318) sts. With MC, knit 6 rnds. Next rnd With CC, *sl 1, k1; rep from * around. With CC, knit 1 rnd. Next rnd With MC, *k1, sl 1; rep from * around. Break CC and cont with MC only. Work even, if necessary, until piece measures 8½ (9, 9½, 10½, 11½)" from end of neckband, measured at center back neck. Divide for body and sleeves: K34 (37, 41, 44, 49), place next 44 (46, 52, 54, 62) sts on holder for sleeve, then using the cable method, CO 12 (14, 16, 18, 18) sts for underarm, k67 (74, 81, 88, 97), place next 44 (46, 52, 54, 62) sts on

15

body

15¾"

¾

(1

5¾

,1

35 (39, 43, 47, 51)"

Z

6¼

,1

6¼

,1

6¾ )"

9 (9¼ , 9¼ , 9¾ , 10¾)"

33¼ (37¼ , 41¼ , 45¼ , 49¼)" 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)"

36 Make it! Knits 2014

Harper Point Photography

holder for sleeve, CO 12 (14, 16, 18, 18) sts for underarm, k33 (37, 40, 44, 48)—158 (176, 194, 212, 230) sts rem for body.

Body

Next rnd K40 (44, 49, 53, 58), pm for side, k79 (88, 97, 106, 115), pm for side, k39 (44, 48, 53, 57)—79 (88, 97, 106, 115) sts each for front and back; beg-of-rnd is at center back. Work even until piece measures 3½" from underarm. Shape waist: Dec rnd [Knit to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, k1, k2tog] 2 times, knit to end—4 sts dec’d. Work 11 rnds even. Rep Dec rnd on next rnd—150 (168, 186, 204, 222) sts rem. Work 11 rnds even. Inc rnd [Knit to 3 sts before m, RLI, k3, sl m, k3, LLI] 2 times, knit to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 12th rnd 2 more times—162 (180, 198, 216, 234) sts. Work even until

piece measures 11½" from underarm. Next rnd With CC, *k1, sl 1; rep from * around. With CC, knit 5 rnds. Next rnd With MC, *sl 1, k1; rep from * around. With MC, knit 1 rnd. Next rnd With CC, *k1, sl 1; rep from * around. With CC, knit 9 rnds. Break CC and cont with MC only. Change to smaller cir needle. Next rnd With MC, *sl 1, k1; rep from * around. Work in k1, p1 rib for ¾". Using the tubular method, BO all sts.

Sleeves

With MC, larger dpn, and RS facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 7 (8, 9, 10, 10) sts along underarm CO sts, k44 (46, 52, 54, 62) held sleeve sts, pick up and knit 7 (8, 9, 10, 10) sts along other half of underarm CO—58 (62, 70, 74, 82) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Dec

rnd K6 (7, 8, 9, 9), k2tog, k42 (44, 50, 52, 60), ssk, k6 (7, 8, 9, 9)—56 (60, 68, 72, 80) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 2" from underarm. Dec rnd K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 9 (8, 5, 5, 4) th rnd 7 (8, 12, 13, 15) more times—40 (42, 42, 44, 48) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 15 (15, 15½, 15½, 16)" from underarm. Change to smaller dpn. Next rnd *Sl 1, k1; rep from * around. Work in k1, p1 rib for ¾". BO all sts, using the tubular method.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Find Melissa J. Goodale online: www.scknits.com.

knittingdaily.com 37

Brad Bartholomew

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Oana Shawl by Kirsten Kapur

nit lace at a big scale with this dramatic shawl. You should be able to K read charts and work lace, as well as manage changing stitch counts, but this is a great first lace shawl for a newer knitter.

point, increasing upward to the top edge. L Fringe is added at the end by looping 8" pieces of yarn through eyelets at the edge of the shawl.

Shawl

1

2

Size 74" wide and 21" deep (not including fringe) Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 500 yards Shown Here O-Wool Classic Worsted (100% certified organic merino; 99 yd [90 m]/50 g): • #4400 sumac, 5 skeins Gauge 12 sts and 20 rows = 4" over 8 st repeat of Chart 2 Tools • Size 10½ (6.5 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle • Size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

Notes L This shawl is worked from the bottom

CO 4 sts. Do not join. Row 1 (RS) [K1, yo] 3 times, k1—7 sts. Row 2 (WS) K1, yo, k5, yo, k1—9 sts. Row 3 K1, yo, k7, yo, k1—11 sts. Row 4 K1, yo, k9, yo, k1—13 sts. Row 5 K1, yo, k11, yo, k1—15 sts. Row 6 K1, yo, k13, yo, k1—17 sts. Row 7 K1, yo, k15, yo, k1—19 sts. Row 8 K1, yo, k17, yo, k1—21 sts. Row 9 [K1, yo] 2 times, ssk, k13, k2tog, [yo, k1] 2 times—23 sts. Row 10 K1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k11, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k1—25 sts. Row 11 K1, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k1—27 sts. Row 12 K1, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k7, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k1—29 sts. Row 13 K1, yo, k9, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k9, yo, k1—31 sts. Row 14 K1, yo, k11, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k11, yo, k1—33 sts. Row 15 K1, yo, k13, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k13, yo, k1—35 sts. Row 16 K1, yo, k33, yo, k1—37 sts. Row 17 [K1, yo] 2 times, ssk, k12, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k12, k2tog, [yo, k1] 2 times—39 sts. Row 18 K1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k10, ssk, yo, p3, yo, k2tog, k10, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k1—41 sts. Work Row 1 of Chart 1, placing markers (pm) as indicated by the blue lines on the chart—43 sts. Work Rows 2–6 of chart once—53 sts. Work Rows 1–8 of Chart 2 nine times—197 sts. Work Rows 1 and 2 of Chart 2 once more—201 sts. knittingdaily.com 39

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Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Top Edge

Row 1 (RS) K1, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k8, k2tog, sl m, yo, knit to next m, yo, sl m, ssk, k8, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k1—203 sts. Row 2 (WS) K1, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k6, ssk, sl m, yo, knit to next m, yo, sl m, k2tog, k6, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k1—205 sts. Row 3 K1, yo, k9, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, sl m, yo, knit to next m, yo, sl m, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k9, yo, k1—207 sts. Row 4 K1, yo, k11, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, sl m, yo, knit to next m, yo, sl m, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k11, yo, k1—209 sts. Row 5 K1, yo, k13, yo, ssk, k2tog, sl m, yo, knit to next m, yo, sl m, ssk, k2tog, yo, k13, yo, k1—211 sts. Row 6 K1, yo, k15, ssk, sl m, yo, knit to next m, yo, sl m, k2tog, k15, yo, k1—213 sts. BO all sts.

Finishing

Block shawl to measurements. Weave in ends.

Fringe

Cut 430 pieces of yarn 8" long. Holding 2 pieces of yarn tog, fold in half. With crochet hook, pull the folded end of the yarns through an eyelet on the edge of the shawl. Secure by pulling the ends of the yarn through the folded end. Rep for all 215 eyelets.

k on RS; p on WS p on RS; k on WS k on RS; p on WS

yo

p on RS; k on WS

k2tog on RS

k on RS; p on WS

yo

ssk on RS

p on RS; k on WS

k2tog on RS

ssk on WS

yo

ssk on RS

k2tog on WS

k on RS; p on WS

k2tog on RS

ssk on WS

pattern repeat

p on RS; k on WS

ssk on RS

k2tog on WS

marker placement

yo

ssk on WS

pattern repeat

k2tog on RS

k2tog on WS

marker placement

ssk on RS

pattern repeat

ssk on WS

marker placement

Find Kirsten Kapur online: www.throughtheloops.typepad.com.

Chart 1

5

k2tog on WS

1 Begin on 37 sts

pattern repeat

Chart 2

3

marker placement 7 5 3 1 8 st repeat Begin on 53 sts

40 Make it! Knits 2014

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27 Knits

straight from a

Fairy Tale!

INTRODUCING THE SPECIAL ISSUE ENCHANTED KNITS Discover how knitting can be your own magical spell. With Enchanted Knits you will become enchanted by every type of project, from the ordinary to extraordinary to the sinister and to the classical patterns of our most beloved mythical creatures and charmed stories. Available at your local yarn shop or online at the InterweaveStore.com

Harper Point Photography

Make it! Knits

Z Easyl Y

Knuckle Down Mitts by Erica Jackofsky

ery brief and very simple, this unisex mitt design is a great project for leftover V yarns. If you have trouble using double-pointed needles, try working the onelong circular method of knitting in the round.

Stitches

Paradiddle Rib: (multiple of 8 sts) Rnd 1 *K1 through back loop (tbl), p1, k2tbl, p1, k1tbl, p2; rep from * to end. Rep Rnd 1 every rnd for patt.

Right Mitt

1

2

Sizes 6½ (8)" palm circumference and 5¾ (7)" wrist circumference; shown in size 6½" Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 200 yards of MC and less than 200 yards of CC Show Here Sweet Georgia Yarn Superwash Worsted (100% superwash merino wool; 200 yd [183 m]/115 g): • nightshade (MC), 1 skein • tumbled stone (CC), 1 skein Gauge 28 sts and 26 rnds = 4" in paradiddle rib patt relaxed on larger needles; 20 sts and 27 rnds = 4" in rev St st on larger needles Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm): set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of dpn • Markers (m) • Waste yarn • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

With CC and smaller dpn, CO 40 (48) sts. Cut CC and join MC. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Cuff: Knit 1 rnd. Work in paradiddle rib (see Stitches) until piece measures 1 (1½)" from CO. Change to larger dpn. Adjust stitch markers: Remove beg-of-rnd m, p8 (10), pm for new beg of rnd. Hand: Next rnd Work in established rib patt over 22 (26) sts, p18 (22). Rep last rnd 4 (6) more times. Shape thumb gusset: Rnd 1 Work 22 (26) sts in patt, p3 (4), M1, p5 (6), M1, p10 (12)—42 (50) sts. Rnds 2, 4, and 6 Work even. Rnd 3 Work 22 (26) sts in patt, p3 (4), M1, p7 (8), M1, p10 (12)—44 (52) sts. Rnd 5 Work 22 (26) sts in patt, p3 (4), M1, p9 (10), M1, p10 (12)—46 (54) sts. Size 8" only: Rnd 7 Work 26 sts in patt, p4, M1, p12, M1, p12—56 sts. Rnd 8 Work even. Both sizes: Next rnd Work 22 (26) sts in patt, p3 (4), place next 11 (14) sts on waste yarn, then using the backward-loop method, CO 5 (6) sts over thumb gap, p10 (12)—40 (48) sts. Upper palm: Next rnd Work 22 (26) sts in patt, purl to end. Rep last rnd 4 (5) more times, or until palm measures 1" less than desired length. Work paradiddle rib over all sts for 5 rnds. Change to CC and knit 1 rnd. BO all sts using the sewn method. Thumb: Using CC and larger dpn, pick up and knit 5 (6) sts in

thumb CO, k11 (14) held thumb sts—16 (20) sts. Knit 1 rnd. BO all sts. Try using the sewn BO for a decorative option (see our online Glossary).

Left Mitt

Work as for right mitt to thumb gusset. Shape thumb gusset: Rnd 1 Work 22 (26) sts in patt, p10 (12), M1, p5 (6), M1, p3 (4)—42 (50) sts. Rnds 2, 4, and 6 Work even. Rnd 3 Work 22 (26) sts in patt, p10 (12), M1, p7 (8), M1, p3 (4)—44 (52) sts. Rnd 5 Work 22 (26) sts in patt, p10 (12), M1, p9 (10), M1, p3 (4)—46 (54) sts. Size 8" only: Rnd 7 Work 26 sts in patt, p12, M1, p12, M1, p4—56 sts. Rnd 8 Work even. Both sizes: Next rnd Work 22 (26) sts in patt, p10 (12), place next 11 (14) sts on waste yarn, then using the backward-loop method, CO 5 (6) sts over thumb gap, p3 (4)—40 (48) sts. Complete as for right mitt.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Do not block ribbing.

Find Erica Jackofsky online: www.fiddleknits.com.

knittingdaily.com 43

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Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Big Thompson Scarf by Christa Giles

n easy scarf is worked in biasing garter stitch with eyelet rows. Simple inA creases and decreases create the diagonal graphic. A completely reversible scarf worked on large needles makes for a fun and functional knit.

L All shaping occurs at the end of rows:

one stitch is increased at the end of every row on Side A (increasing to 31 stitches), while one stitch is decreased at the end of every row on Side B (returning count to 30 stitches).

Stitches

Bias Garter Stitch: Row 1 (Side A) Knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—31 sts. Row 2 (Side B) Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—30 sts rem. Rep Rows 1–2 for patt; 1 ridge = 2 rows.

Scarf 1

2

Size 6¼" wide and 88" long Yarn #5 Bulky, about 435 yards Shown Here Classic Elite Yarns Ariosa (90% merino, 10% cashmere; 87 yd [78 m]/50 g): • #4809 aquarius (navy), 5 skeins Gauge 14 sts and 26 rows (13 ridges) = 4" in garter st Tools • Size 11 (8 mm) needles • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Notes L Because the scarf has no right or

Z

wrong side, the sides are referred to as Side A and Side B. For ease of working, mark Side A. Count ridges on Side A only.

44 Make it! Knits 2014

CO 30 sts. Work Rows 1 and 2 of bias garter st (see Stitches) 6 times—12 rows; 6 ridges. **6-row eyelet section: Rows 1 and 5 (Side A) K1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, yo, k1—31 sts. Rows 2 and 4 Work Row 2 of bias garter st. Row 3 Work Row 1 of bias garter st. Row 6 Work Row 2 of bias garter st. Work Rows 1 and 2 of bias garter st 12 times—24 rows; 12 ridges. Rep from ** 12 times more—13 eyelet sections total. Work 6-row eyelet section once more. Work Rows 1 and 2 of bias garter st 5 times—10 rows; 5 ridges. BO all sts kwise.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Block if desired. Find Christa Giles online: www.christagiles.com.

Joe Coca

Harper Point Photography

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Veronica Slouch by Brenda K. B. Anderson

he chunky cable in this hat makes the perfect frame for three special buttons. T This quick project requires knitting in the round, reading a chart, and working cables and decreases.

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Hat

1

2

Z

Brim: With smaller cir needle, CO 75 (81) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Set-up rnd Work Cable chart over 12 sts, pm, *k1tbl, p1; rep from * to last st, k1tbl. Cont in patt as established for 6 more rnds—81 (87) sts. Change to larger cir needle. Body: Next rnd Work in chart patt to m, knit to end. Cont in patt as established through Row 20 of chart,

then work Rows 9–20 once more, work Rows 21–23 (21–22) of chart once. Larger size only: Dec rnd (Row 23 of chart) Work chart to m, sl m, k3, [k2tog, k9] 6 times—81 sts rem. Both sizes: Shape crown: Note: Change to dpn when necessary. Rnd 1 Work chart to m, sl m, knit to end. Rnd 2 Work chart to m, sl m, [k9, k2tog, k10] 3 times—76 sts rem: 16 chart sts, 60 sts in St st. Rnd 3 Rep Rnd 1 —72 sts rem: 12 chart sts, 60 sts in St st.

Sizes 18¾ (20¼)" brim circumference, 21¼ (23)" circumference at widest point, and 9¾" tall; shown in smaller size. Yarn #5 Bulky, about 210 yards Shown Here Malabrigo Chunky (100% pure merino wool; 104 yd [95 m]/100 g): • #83 water green, 2 skeins Gauge 14 sts and 20 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle; 18-st cable panel = 3¼" wide. Tools • Ribbing—size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" circular (cir). • Body—size 10 (6 mm): 16" cir and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. • Markers (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle • Three 1" buttons

Notes L This hat is worked in the round from the bottom up.

knittingdaily.com 47

Z Easys Y

Make it! Knits Rnd 4 Work chart to m, sl m, k4, [k2tog, k5] 8 times—64 sts rem: 12 chart sts, 52 sts in St st. Rnd 5 Rep Rnd 1. Rnd 6 Work chart to m, sl m, k1, [k2tog, k4] 8 times, k3—54 sts rem: 10 chart sts, 44 sts in St st. Rnd 7 Rep Rnd 1. Rnd 8 Work chart to m, sl m, [k3, k2tog] 8 times, k4—44 sts rem: 8 chart sts, 36 sts in St st. Rnd 9 Rep Rnd 1. Rnd 10 Work chart to m, sl m, k4, [k2tog, k2] 8 times—34 sts rem: 6 chart sts, 28 sts in St st. Rnd 11 Rep Rnd 1. Rnd 12 Work chart to m, sl m, k2, [k2tog, k1] 8 times, k2—24 sts rem: 4 chart sts, 20 sts in St st. Rnd 13 Rep Rnd 1—22 sts rem: 2 chart sts, 20 sts in St st. Rnd 14 [k2tog] 11 times—11 sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, draw tail through rem sts and pull to gather.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block. Sew one button at center of each cable.

Cable

Find Brenda K. B. Anderson on Ravelry as yarnville.

35 33 31

knit

29

purl

27 25

k1tbl

23 k2tog

21

ssk

19 17

p2tog

15

work 2 times M1R

13 M1L

11

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k3, p1 from cn sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k3 from cn sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in back, k3, k3 from cn sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front, k3, k3 from cn

48 Make it! Knits 2014

9 MR

ML MR

7

ML MR

ML

5 3 1

12 to 18 to 2 sts

Kathryn Martin

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Wavy Lace Capelet by Cecily Glowik MacDonald

an easy capelet in a wavy lace pattern with a super-bulky yarn on large Knitneedles. You don’t need to read charts to work this lace!

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

Stitch Guide

Rib Pattern: (multiple of 9 sts + 6) Row 1 : (RS) K2, *k4, p5; rep from * to last 4 sts, p2, k2. Row 2 : Knit the knits and purl the purls. Rep Rows 1–2 for patt.

1

2

Sizes 32 (38, 44, 50)" circumference at top, buttoned, and 11½" long. Capelet shown measures 32". Yarn #6 Super Bulky Shown Here Blue Moon Fiber Arts Icelandic (100% wool; 250 yd [229 m]/226 g): • winter solstice, 1 (1, 2, 2) skein(s) Gauge 11 sts and 16 rows = 4" in wavy lace on smaller needle. Tools • Sizes 13 (9 mm) and 15 (10 mm): 32" circular (cir) needles. • Tapestry needle • Two 1¼" buttons.

Wavy Lace: (multiple of 9 sts + 6) Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7: (RS) K2,*k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4. Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl. Rows 9, 11, 13, and 15: K2, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4. Row 16: Purl. Rep Rows 1–16 for patt.

Capelet

With smaller needle, CO 114 (132, 150, 168) sts. Do not join. Work in rib patt (see Stitch Guide) for 4 rows. Buttonhole row: (RS) Work in patt to last 5 sts, yo, p2tog, p1, k2. Work 5 more rows in rib. Rep Buttonhole row. Work 1 more row in rib. Work Rows 1–16 of wavy lace (see Stitch Guide). Change to larger needle and work Rows 1–16 once more. BO all sts kwise on RS.

Finishing

Block piece to measurements. Sew buttons about 6" in from left-hand edge, aligned with buttonholes. Weave in ends. Block again, if desired. Find Cecily Glowik MacDonald online: www.cecilyam.wordpress.com.

Notes L Capelet is worked back and forth

in rows on circular needle, from the neck down, and is designed to overlap several inches at neck edge. Button placement may be adjusted as desired. edge measures 43 (493⁄4 , L The1 bottom 1 56 ⁄2 , 63 ⁄2)" wide.

knittingdaily.com 51

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Leadville Cowl by Annie Watts

his cowl is worked in the round, then folded in half and seamed to creT ate the double layers. One side features an easy lattice cable, while the other is worked in ribbing.

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

Cowl

1

2

Size 25½" circumference and 8½" tall Yarn #5 Bulky, about 360 yards Shown Here The Fibre Company Tundra (60% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 10% silk; 120 yd [110 m]/100 g): • mink, 3 skeins. Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens. Gauge 17 sts and 22 rnds = 4" in Lattice patt on larger needle. Tools • Size 9 (5.5 mm) needles • Size 10 (6 mm): 24" circular (cir) needles • Marker (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle.

Notes L Cowl is worked in the round and then

With smaller needle, CO 108 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1. Rep last rnd until piece measures 2½" from CO. Change to larger needle and cont in rib patt until piece measures 3½" from CO. Work Rows 1–16 of Lattice chart 2 times, working Row 11 of chart as foll: K1, *p1, M1P, p1, k2tog; rep from * to last st, sl last st to right needle, remove m, return slipped st to left needle, k2tog, pm. Work Rows 1–9 of chart once more— piece measures about 11" from CO. Next rnd K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1. Cont in rib patt until piece measures 12" from CO. Change to smaller needle and cont in patt until work measures 18" from CO. BO all sts loosely in patt.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Turn cowl inside out. Fold CO edge up and BO edge down and seam them tog. Turn cowl right side out, wash, and lay flat to dry, adjusting cowl so that lattice panel is centered on outside. Laying a tall glass in the center of the cowl to separate the sides will help expedite the drying of the thick layers. Find Annie Watts online: www.wattsolak.com.

knit purl k2tog p2tog M1L M1 pwise sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, p1 from cn sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p1, k1 from cn pattern repeat

Lattice ML

ML

15 13

MP

MP

11 * 9

ML

ML

7 5

MP

MP

3 1

4 st repeat * Work as given in directions

the cast-on and bind-off edges are sewn together to form a doubled fabric with the ribbing on the inside and the Lattice pattern on the outside.

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Joe Hancock

Make it! Knits

by Catherine Shields

dense cable pattern makes for a rich and rustic beret. If you’re ready to chalA lenge yourself with a complex chart while working up a small project, this hat is for you!

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

Notes L Slip all stitches purlwise unless otherwise indicated.

Stitch Guide

Sk2p: Sl 1 kwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over—2 sts dec’d.

Trinity Stitch: (multiple of 4 sts)

1

2

3

Size 20" circumference at brim, 30" circumference at widest point. Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 250 yards Shown Here Tahki Yarns Tara Tweed (80% wool, 20% nylon; 122 yd [112 m]/ 50 g): • #013 rosewood, 2 balls Yarn distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc. Gauge 17 sts and 30 rnds = 4" in Trinity St on larger needle; 30 sts of Cable chart = 5¼" wide. Tools • Brim—size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" circular (cir) needles. • Body—size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" cir and set of double-pointed needles (dpn). • Markers (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle

Rnd 1 *Sk2p, [p1, yo, p1] in same st; rep from * to end. Rnds 2 and 4 Purl. Rnd 3 *[P1, yo, p1] in same st, sk2p; rep from * to end. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

Hat

Brim: With smaller needle, CO 90 sts.

Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1". Inc rnd *[P1f&b, p1] 3 times, p1, [k1, M1] 3 times, p1, [M1, k1] 2 times, [p1f&b] 4 times, [k1, M1] 2 times, p1, [M1, k1] 3 times, [p2, M1P] 3 times, p1, pm; rep from * to end—150 sts: 50 sts between each pair of m. Body: Change to larger cir needle. Next rnd *Work Trinity St (see Stitch Guide) over 8 sts, p2, work Row 1 of Cable chart over 30 sts, p2, work Trinity St over 8 sts; rep from * to end. Cont in patt as established through Row 35 of chart. Shape crown: Rnd 1 *[P2tog] 2 times, p6, work Row 36 of chart, p6, [p2tog tbl] 2 times; rep from * to end—138 sts rem. Rnd 2 *P8, work Row 37 of chart, p8; rep from * to end. Rnd 3 *[Sl 1 kwise] 3 times, k2tog, p3sso, [p1, yo, p1] in same st, p2, work Row 38 of chart, p2, sk2p, p3; rep from * to end—126 sts rem.

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Z Intermediate Y

Three's a Charm Tam

1 st from right needle to left needle, pass 2nd st on left needle over first st, sl st to right needle; rep from * once more

Z Intermediate Y

Make it! Knits Rnd 4 *P6, work Row 39 of chart, p6; rep from * to end. Rnd 5 *[P2tog] 2 times, p2, work Row 40 of chart, p2, [p2tog tbl] 2 times; rep from * to end—114 sts rem. Rnd 6 *P4, work Row 41 of chart, p4; rep from * to end. Rnd 7 *[P2tog] 2 times, work Row 42 of chart, [p2tog tbl] 2 times; rep from * to end—102 sts rem. Rnd 8 *P2, work Row 43 of chart, p2; rep from * to end. Rnd 9 *P2tog, work Row 44 of chart, p2tog tbl; rep from * to end—84 sts rem. Rnd 10 *P1, work Row 45 of chart, p1; rep from * to end. Cont in patt, working p1 before and after each chart section, through Row 56 of chart, changing to dpn when necessary—9 sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a 10" tail. Thread tail through rem sts and pull tight to gather.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block if desired. Find Catherine Shields online: www .studiomarlowe.com.

Z Tech Tip Y

The cables in this hat are simple enough to provide perfect practice for cabling without a cable needle, and the tweedy yarn is “sticky” enough to keep you from accidentally dropping stitches as you get used to the technique. See Beyond the Basics, Interweave Knits, Fall 2009, or www.knittingdaily.com/ losethatcableneedle.

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn

4

5

knit

p3tog

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn

purl

p3tog tbl

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn

sk2p, return st from right needle to left needle, pass 2nd st on left needle over first st, sl st to right needle

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn sl 1, sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, return sl st from right needle to left needle, k2tog, return sl st from cn to left needle, k2tog

[sl 1 kwise] 2 times, k1, *pass 1 sl st over, return 1 st from right needle to left needle, pass 2nd st on left needle over first st, sl st to right needle; rep from * once more

sl 1 kwise, sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, psso, sl 1 kwise from cn, k1, psso sl 1, sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, return sl st from right needle to left needle, k2tog, k1, k2 from cn

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k1 from cn, sl 1 kwise from cn to right needle, k1, psso

Cable

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in 5 56 back, k2, k2 from cn sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

5 5

54 52

sl 1, sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, return sl st from 4 right needle to left needle, k2tog, return sl st from cn to left needle, k2tog

50 48 46 44

sl 1 kwise, sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, psso, sl 1 kwise from cn, k1, psso sl 1, sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, return sl st from right needle to left needle, k2tog, k1, k2 from cn sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k1 from cn, sl 1 kwise from cn to right needle, k1, psso

42 40 38 36 34 32 30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2

56 Make it! Knits 2014

30 sts

ND BEYO the CS BASI

How Much Yarn Do I Need? A Mathmatical Approach

by Lori Gayle Suppose you have a fabulous idea for an original sweater. You’ve studied instructions for similar garments, covered scraps of paper with sketches and notes, and you’re confident that you can figure out how to knit your dream project. One question remains: how much yarn to buy? Depending on your personality, you may want to wing it—take an educated guess and cross your fingers—or you may want to do some swatching and figuring and come up with a careful and, likely, accurate estimate.

Winging It If you want to wing it, consider referring to one of the many reference guides that give yarn requirements based on garment size and yarn thickness (see some recommendations on page 59), but keep in mind that the information in them is intended to be used only as a general rule of thumb. Alternatively, purchase yarn according to amounts given for a similar sweater in a published pattern, if you trust that the yarn amounts there are correct. To arrive at a more dependable estimate based on the details of your particular project, apply the easy-to-follow mathematical formulas here.

Using Your Math To estimate yarn needs accurately you need to determine how many ounces/ grams or yards/meters of the chosen yarn are required to produce a piece of knitted fabric of a certain size. Then you need to determine the sizes of all your garment pieces. The following example walks you through the estimation of yarn required

for a solid-color child’s pullover worked in one stitch pattern.

Step One: Knit a Swatch Like many other knitting adventures, the first step in determining yarn needs involves making a swatch, for which you will need at least a single skein of your chosen yarn. You can use the same swatch to determine gauge. Knit a generous swatch—at least 5" (12.7 cm) square. Let’s assume for our example that the gauge of your stitch pattern works out perfectly to 20 stitches and 28 rows in 4" (10 cm). If you cast on 25 stitches and make a 5" (12.7 cm) square swatch, you will have a piece of fabric knitted in your pattern stitch that covers 25 square inches (161.3 square cm). You now need to discover either the weight of the swatch or the length of yarn used in it. Swatch Weight Method For this method, a digital scale or triple-beam balance is ideal, but postal or kitchen scales, which measure in fractions of grams/ ounces, will also work well. Check the

yarn label for the weight of the ball of yarn. You’ll save yourself an extra step later on if you work with the same system reported on the yarn label—grams or ounces. Let’s say that the yarn for our example project contains 109 yards (100 meters) in each 50-gram skein. Therefore, you’ll want to find out the weight of the swatch in grams. For our example, let’s suppose that the swatch weighs 10 grams. (If you weighed your swatch in ounces, multiply the number of ounces by 28.35 to get grams.) You can now determine the weight of yarn in each square unit of knitted fabric: 10 grams ÷ 25 square inches = 0.4 grams per square inch (10 grams ÷ 161.3 square cm = 0.06 grams per square cm) Swatch Length Method This method is based on the length of yarn required to knit the swatch. Unravel the swatch (after measuring it, of course). If necessary, stretch the unraveled yarn slightly to straighten out any kinks (but avoid pulling it tight, especially very elastic yarns, or you will get an artificially long result) and use a yardstick (or yardage counter, spinner’s niddy-noddy, or weaver’s warping board) to measure the total length. Let’s say that the yarn from the unraveled swatch measures 21.8 yards (19.9 meters). You can now determine the length of yarn in each square unit of knitted fabric: 21.8 yards ÷ 25 square inches = 0.87 yards per square inch (19.9 meters ÷ 161.3 square centimeters = 0.12 meters per square centimeter)

Step Two: Draw a Schematic The next step is to determine how many square inches or centimeters there are in the entire garment by drawing a schematic. Here’s a quick technique for getting a good estimate. If your algebra skills are still sharp, feel free to use a more exact method. Draw a sketch of all the garment pieces laid out as if you were going to cut them out of imaginary rectangles of fabric. Remember to include elements not typically shown on schematics like knittingdaily.com 57

neckbands, button bands, armhole bands, collars, pockets, and facings. The illustration below shows the pieces of our project arranged on three rectangles. Note: If you’re planning to work your project in the round, still draw the pieces as if they had been cut apart like the ones in the example. The back and front fit into a rectangle that measures 16" x 30" (40.5 cm x 76 cm), or 480 square inches (3078 square cm). The sleeves fit into another rectangle (one sleeve is drawn upsidedown to nestle close to its mate) that measures 11" x 23" (28 cm x 58.5 cm),

or 253 square inches (1638 square cm). The shaded areas in the rectangle, which represent areas of no knitting, allow for an extra ”fudge factor” in the estimate. The neckband is shown on the third rectangle, measuring 1" x 18" (2.5 cm x 46 cm), or 18 square inches (115 square cm). In our sample, the neckband is 1" (2.5 cm) deep and we’ve given a generous estimate for the length of twice the back neck width plus twice the front neck depth.

Step Three: Add it All Together The next step is to add the areas of the three rectangles. Our sample sweater

will require about 751 square inches (4831 square cm) of knitted fabric. Remember that the yarn chosen for this project contains 109 yards (100 cm) in each 50-gram skein. If you used the Swatch Weight Method, you know that each square inch weighs 0.4 grams, and each square centimeter weighs 0.062 grams. Multiplying these weights by the total area required gives you the total weight of yarn required: 751 square inches x 0.4 grams per square inch = 300.4 grams (4831 square cm x 0.06 grams per square cm = 289.9 grams)

Drawing a Schematic to Estimate Yarn Needs 1" 2.5 cm 30" 76 cm

18" 46 cm

16" 40.5 cm

23" 58.5 cm 13" 33 cm

7" 18 cm

3" 7.5 cm

Drawing a schematic this way allows you to determine how many square inches or centimeters there are in an entire garment.

11" 28 cm

58 Make it! Knits 2014

Each of these estimates requires approximately six 50-gram skeins. If you used the Swatch Length Method, you know that each square inch takes 0.87 yards of yarn, and each square centimeter takes 0.12 meters. Multiplying these lengths by the total area required gives you the total length of yarn required: 751 square inches x 0.87 yards per square inch = 653.4 yards (4831 square cm x 0.12 meters per square cm = 579.7 meters) Each of these estimates requires approximately six 109-yard (100-m) skeins.

The slight differences between the answers are the result of rounding the numbers up or down. It is always a good idea to add an additional 10% safety margin to cover any minor errors in weighing or measuring, and to accommodate design changes that may occur as you knit the garment. In this case, an extra 10% would bring the estimate to 6.6 skeins, or a purchase of 7 skeins.

Resources!

Lori Gayle is a technical editor for many knitting publications.

The Nancy’s Knit Knacks Yarn Yardage Estimator Kard, available at www .nancysknitknacks.com

To determine typical yarn yardage requirements for different kinds of projects in different yarns, check out these tools: The Knitter’s Handy Guide to Yarn Requirements by Ann Budd, available at www.interweavestore.com

Collect the premiere knit.wear special issues This collection is available on CD or as an instant download. Shop for this at your local yarn shop or online at InterweaveStore.com. knittingdaily.com 59

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Ambrosia Cowl by Katya Frankel

nit up in an unusual combination of rib and garter, the Ambrosia Cowl is a K perfect project for a skein of lofty alpaca. You should be able to keep track of stitches and work basic cables and decreases.

1

2

Size 21" circumference and 9" tall. Yarn #5 Bulky, about 150 yards Shown Here Artesano Aran (50% alpaca, 50% Peruvian highland wool; 144 yd [132 m]/100 g): • #C859 walnut, 1 skein Gauge 14 sts and 26 rnds = 4" in garter st. Tools • Size 8 (5 mm): 16" circular (cir) needles • Markers (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Notes L Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in back.

Stitch Guide

1/2 LPC: Sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p2, k1 from cn.

60 Make it! Knits 2014

Cowl

CO 3 sts, place marker (pm), CO 89 sts—92 sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Rnd 1 K3, sl m, sl 1 (see Notes), *p3, sl 1; rep from * to end. Rnd 2 P3, sl m, 1/2 LPC (see Stitch Guide), p1, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to end. Rnd 3 Knit to m, remove m, k2, pm, sl 1, p1, sl 1, *p3, sl 1; rep from * to end. Rnd 4 Purl to m, sl m, 1/2 LPC, *p3, k1; rep from * to end. Rnd 5 Knit to m, remove m, k2, pm, sl 1, *p3, sl 1; rep from * to end.

Rnd 6 Purl to 2 sts before m, p2tog, sl m, 1/2 LPC, p1, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Rnds 3–6 ten more times—81 sts rem. BO all sts.

Finishing

Weave in ends and block lightly. Find Katya Frankel online: www.katyafrankel.com.

Harper Point Photography

Joe Coca

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Flamboyant Shawl by Maria Leigh

egin this shawl at one tip, increase to the widest point, then decrease to the B second tip. The ruffled edge is worked by picking up stitches and working short-rows. This is a great project for practicing slightly more intermediate skills. along one long shaped edge for ruffle.

L Ruffle is shaped using short-rows.

Since the short-rows are worked in garter stitch, there is no need to work the wraps together with the wrapped stitches. L Piece is worked back and forth in rows. A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches. L Slip stitches at beginning of wrongside rows purlwise with yarn in front. Bring yarn to back of work again before knitting the next stitch.

Finishing

Block piece to measurements. Weave in ends. Find Maria Leigh online: www.amigurumikr.com.

Shawl

1

2

Size 56½" from tip to tip and 11½" at widest point. Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 480 yards Shown Here Manos del Uruguay Rittenhouse Merino 5-ply (100% extrafine merino; 240 yd [220 m]/100 g): • #509 maroon, 2 hanks Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers Gauge 18 sts and 32 rows = 4" in garter st. Tools • Size 7 (4.5mm): 29" circular (cir) needle • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

Notes L This shawl is worked in garter stitch

from tip to tip, increasing stitches to center point, and then decreasing stitches to end. Stitches are picked up

Using the long-tail method, CO 3 sts. Do not join. Work incs: Rows 1, 3, and 5 (WS) Sl 1 (see Notes), k2. Rows 2 and 4 Knit. Row 6 (RS) Knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1— 1 st inc’d. Rows 7, 9, and 11 Sl 1, knit to end. Rows 8 and 10 Knit. Rep Rows 6–11 thirty-six more times, ending with a WS row—40 sts. Work decs: Row 1 (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1— 1 st dec’d. Rows 2, 4, and 6 Sl 1, knit to end. Rows 3 and 5 Knit. Rep Rows 1–6 thirty-six more times, ending with a WS row—3 sts rem. Shape ruffle: Next row (RS) K1, k2tog, turn piece clockwise and work [k1, p1] into each slipped st along long shaped edge, turn piece clockwise and pick up and knit 2 sts along CO edge—454 sts total. Do not join. Beg short-rows: Short-Rows 1 and 2 Knit to last 16 sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-Row 3 Knit to 16 sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Rep Row 3 eleven more times, ending with a RS row. Knit 3 rows across all sts. BO all sts. knittingdaily.com 63

Carmel Zucker

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Mixt Cowl by Cirilia Rose

wist the cast-on a couple times before joining this cowl in the round T to get a Möbius shape. An easy lace pattern is worked in long rounds from top to bottom.

1

2

Size 48" circumference and 11" high. Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 400 yards Shown Here Berroco Boboli (42% wool, 35% acrylic, 23% viscose; 206 yd [189 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): • #5329 jammie, 2 balls Gauge 14 sts and 14 rows = 4" in lace patt. Tools • Size 9 (5.5 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle

Cowl

Using the long-tail method, CO 168 sts. Twist CO row twice before joining. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Lace patt: Rnd 1 : *Ssk, k1, yo; rep from * around. Rnd 2: Knit. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 until piece measures 11" from CO. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts pwise.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Gently block if desired. Find Cirilia Rose online: www.ciriliarose.com.

knittingdaily.com 65

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Overdyed Ragg Scarf by Nancy Shroyer

n easy knitted lace scarf is worked in blocks of three colors. Worked in two A pieces from the ends to the center, the scarf is grafted at the center with Kitchener stitch. An easy two-row lace pattern is completely reversible.

1

was worked for the entirety of one skein. The hot pink skein was divided in half for the two sections at the center of the scarf, which create one section equal to the others once the two halves are grafted together. L To avoid having to weave in tails, knit to the end of the row before a colorchange row; break off yarn leaving almost no tail. Rip back about 10 stitches and spit-splice the yarn. Wait a few minutes to dry and complete row.

2

Size 6½" wide and 97½" long, after blocking Yarn #4 Medium – Aran in 3 colors, about 150 yards of 2 and 75 of 3rd color Shown Here Nashua Handknits Snowbird (72% wool, 28% alpaca; 73 yd [66 m]/ 50 g): • #2315 natural, 2 skeins • #1792 coral, 2 skeins • #5764 hot pink, 1 skein Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers Gauge 16½ sts and 17 rows = 4" in lace patt Tools • Size 10½ (6.5 mm) needles • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Stitches

Double Decrease (dbl dec): Sl 2 sts tog kwise, k1, p2sso—2 sts dec’d.

Scarf

First half: With natural and the knitted method, CO 27 sts. Knit 1 WS row. Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), k1, *yo, k1, dbl dec (see Stitches),

k1, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyb, knit to end. Rep last 2 rows 40 more times. Join coral and work Rows 1 and 2 forty-two times. Join hot pink and work Rows 1 and 2 nineteen times, then work Row 1 once more—hot pink section measures about 9½"; piece measures about 48¾" from CO. Cut yarn. Place sts on holder. Work 2nd half as for first. Cut yarn, leaving a 25" tail for grafting. Leave sts on needle.

Finishing

With RS facing, place 27 sts of first half onto empty needle. Use Kitchener st to graft sts tog. Weave in ends. Pin to measurements and block by spraying liberally with water. Let dry. Find Nancy Shroyer online: www.nancy-shroyer.com.

Z

Notes L Scarf is worked in two pieces worked

from the cast-on edge to the center of the scarf. The live stitches of both pieces are then grafted together. L For the sample scarf, each color block 66 Make it! Knits 2014

overdyed ragg scarf.indd 66

8/26/14 11:46 AM

Joe Coca

Joe Hancock

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Amstel Hat by Courtney Kelley

simple chevron, elaborated and repeated, becomes a rippling allover texture A in this four-cornered hat. An unusual cast-on makes for a neat beginning at the top of the hat; you can use a simpler cast-on if you prefer.

Finishing

(pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd [K1, k1f&b] 4 times—12 sts: 3 sts on each needle. Work Rnds 1–10 of Chevron chart, changing to larger cir needle when necessary—88 sts: 22 sts on each needle. Work Rnds 11–24 two times, then work Rnds 25–30. Change to smaller cir needle and work chart Rnd 31—72 sts rem. Contknit in rib patt as established for 1¾”. BO all sts.

Pull CO tail to close hole in center. Weave in ends and block. knit

Find Courtneypurl Kelley online: www.kelbournewoolens.com. no stitch 2

purl

1

knit

Size 20" brim circumference, with ribbing stretched. Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 140 yards Shown Here The Fibre Company Road to China (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere; 69 yd [63 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): • blue tourmaline, 2 skeins Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens Gauge 16 sts and 28 rows = 4” in charted patt (Rows 11–24) on larger needles. Tools • Body—size 8 (5 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of 5 double-pointed needles (dpn) • Brim—size 6 (4 mm): 16” cir. needle • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

Notes L Hat is worked from the top down. Hat

k1f&b

2

Using the Emily Ocker method, CO 8 sts, divided evenly over 4 dpn. Place marker

2

purl no stitch Chevron 2

no stitch

p3tog

k1f&b

pattern repeat

p3tog

k1f&b

pattern repeat

31 29

p3tog

27

pattern repeat

25 23 21 19 17

work 2x

15 13 11 2 2

2 2

9

2 2

2 2

7

2 2

2 2

5

2 2

2 2

3

2 2 2

1

3 to 22 st repeat

knittingdaily.com 69

Carmel Zucker

Make it! Knits

by Cecily Glowik MacDonald

ork in the round and follow a cable chart with this warm, chunky, oversized W cowl. It’s a quick project, once you are familiar with the chart, and makes a great unisex gift.

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Z

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block piece so that patt is slightly stretched open. knit

Scarf

CO 240 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work Rnds 1–16 of Cable and Rib chart 2 times—piece measures about 6" from CO. Loosely BO all sts in patt.

Find Cecily Glowik MacDonald online: purl www.cecilyam.wordpress.com. pattern repeat sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k1, p1, (k1, p1) from cn sl 4 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2, (k2, p2) from cn

knit purl

sl 4 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, p2, (k2, p2) from cn

pattern repeat

1

2

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k1, p1, (k1, p1) from cn sl 4 sts onto cn, hold in

Size About 6" wide and 48" in circumference. Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 290 yards Shown Here Alpaca with a Twist Highlander (45% baby alpaca, 45% merino wool, 8% microfiber, 2% viscose; 145 yd [133 m]/100 g): • #4012 Scots pine, 2 skeins Gauge 20 sts and 21 rnds = 4" in cable and rib patt. Tools • Size 8 (5 mm): 29" circular (cir) needle • Marker (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle

Cable and Rib back, k2, p2, (k2, p2) from cn

15

sl 4 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, p2, (k2, p2) from cn

13 11 9 7 5 3 1 20-st repeat

knittingdaily.com 71

Z Easy Y

Nederland Circle Scarf

Amy's Slippers by Amy Palmer

ined with needlefelted roving, these top-down slipper socks are worked both L flat and in the round, in a cozy knit-and-purl stripe pattern. They’re sized for men and women, and the foot length is adjustable.

Kathryn Martin

Make it! Knits 1

2

3

Notes L These slipper socks are worked with

positive ease to accommodate the fiber lining. Choose the circumference size closest to your actual foot circumference. Work the foot at least ½" longer than your actual foot length. L If desired, use a longer circular needle and work the slippers in the round using the magic-loop method.

Stitch Guide

Welting Pattern in Rows: Row 1 : (RS) Knit. Rows 2 and 3: Purl. Row 4: Knit. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt. Welting Pattern in Rounds: Rnds 1 and 2: Purl. Rnds 3 and 4: Knit. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt. Double Moss Stitch: (multiple of 4 sts) Rnds 1 and 2: *P2, k2; rep from * to end. Rnds 3 and 4: *K2, p2; rep from * to end. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

Right Slipper

With cir needle, CO 48 (54) sts. Do not join. Work welting patt in rows (see Stitch Guide) as foll: Row 1 : (RS) Knit. (First 6 sts make up the buttonhole band.)

k2tog, k1, sl m, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of sole, k2tog, k1—4 sts dec’d. Rnd 2: Knit. Rep last 2 rnds 6 (7) times more—14 (16) sts rem. Cut yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Divide sts evenly between 2 needles and use Kitchener st to graft toe.

Left Slipper

With cir needle, CO 48 (54) sts. Do not join. Work welting patt in rows as foll: Row 1 : (RS) Knit. (Last 6 sts make up the buttonhole band.) Row 2 : (WS) Purl. Row 3: P42 (48), k6. Row 4: P6, k42 (48). Rep Rows 1–4 once more. Buttonhole row: (RS) Work to last 6 sts, k1, ssk, yo, k3. Work as for right slipper, with band worked at end of RS rows, to Joining row, ending with patt Row 4. Joining row: (RS) Knit to last 6 sts (buttonhole band sts); sl last 6 sts to spare dpn; with RS still facing, fold piece into a tube with buttonhole band sts on spare needle in front of first 6 sts of row; *knit 1 st from buttonhole band tog with 1 st from cir needle; rep from * 5 more times—42 (48) sts rem. Pm for beg of rnd and cont to work in the rnd as foll: Work Rnds 1–4 of welting patt in rnds 2 times. Heel: Short-Row 1: (RS) K20 (23), wrap next st, turn. Short-Row 2: (WS) P19 (22), wrap next st, turn. Cont as for right slipper, reversing RS and WS rows, until last row worked is: Short-Row 32: (WS) P20 (23), purl wrapped st and its 2 wraps tog, ending at original beg of rnd, wrap next st, turn. Foot: Resume working in the rnd as foll: Rnd 1 : K3, work double moss st over 16 (20) sts, k2, pm, work welting patt in rnds over 21 (24) sts. First 21 (24) sts make up the sole and last 21 (24) sts make up the instep. Complete as for right slipper.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Turn slipper inside out. Tear roving into wide strips roughly 10" long. Using a felting needle, beg at toe, lightly needlefelt roving into the slipper, attaching roving to foot in 2" increments. Cont needlefelting until foot and top of foot are covered. Beg at heel, lightly needlefelt roving into slipper leg. Turn slipper right side out. Attach buttons to leg, opposite buttonholes. Find Amy Palmer online: www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/knitscene. knittingdaily.com 73

Z Intermediate Y

Sizes 9¼ (10¾)" foot circumference, 10½ (12)" leg circumference, and 9 (10¾)" long from heel to toe (see Notes about sizing). Foot length is adjustable. Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 320 yards Shown Here Halcyon Botanica (100% wool; 160 yd [146 m]/113 g) • #32 blue (#47 olive), 2 skeins Gauge 18 sts and 35 rows = 4" in welting patt, unstretched; 19 sts and 26 rows = 4" in St st. Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm)16" circular (cir) needles and set of double-pointed (dpn) needles • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle • Spare dpn in same size (or smaller) as main needles • Roving or fleece for lining (Halcyon Marvelous Merino shown here) • Needlefelting needle and needlefelting sponge/foam for holding behind work • Six ⅝" buttons.

Row 2 : (WS) Purl. Row 3: K6, p42 (48). Row 4: K42 (48), p6. Rep Rows 1–4 once more. Buttonhole row: (RS) *K3, yo, k2tog, k1, work in patt to end. Work in patt for 13 (15) more rows. Rep from * once more. Rep Buttonhole row. Work in patt for 7 more rows, ending with Row 4—piece should measure about 5 (5½)" from CO. Note: You can change to dpn at this point or work on one long cir needle. Joining rnd: (RS) Knit to last 6 sts, sl last 6 sts to spare dpn; with RS still facing, fold piece into a tube with sts on spare needle held behind first 6 sts (buttonhole band); place marker (pm) for beg of rnd and *knit 1 st from buttonhole band tog with 1 st from spare needle; rep from * 5 more times, knit to end of rnd—42 (48) sts rem. Cont to work in the rnd as foll: Work Rnds 1–4 of welting patt in rnds (see Stitch Guide) 2 times. Piece measures 1¼" from joining rnd. Heel: Heel is worked over 21 (24) sts. Turn piece and work short-rows (see Glossary) as foll: Short-Row 1: (WS) P20 (23), wrap next st, turn. Short-Row 2: (RS) K19 (22), wrap next st, turn. Short-Row 3: P18 (21), wrap next st, turn. Short-Row 4: K17 (20), wrap next st, turn. Cont to work 1 fewer st between wrapped sts on every row; last row is worked as foll: Short-Row 16: (RS) K5 (8), wrap next st, turn. Pick up wrapped sts as foll: Short-Row 17: (WS) P5 (8), purl wrapped st and its wrap tog, wrap next st, turn. Short-Row 18: K6 (9), knit wrapped st and its wrap tog, wrap next st, turn. Short-Row 19: P7 (10), purl wrapped st and its 2 wraps tog, wrap next st, turn. Short-Row 20: K8 (11), knit wrapped st and its 2 wraps tog, wrap next st, turn. Rep Short-Rows 19 and 20, working 1 more st every row before picking up double-wraps, until last row worked is: Short-Row 32: (RS) K20 (23), knit wrapped st and its 2 wraps tog, ending at original beg of rnd; do not turn. Foot: Rnd 1 : Work welting patt in rnds over 21 (24) sts, pm, k3, work double moss st (see Stitch Guide) over 16 (20) sts, k2. First 21 (24) sts make up the instep and last 21 (24) sts make up the sole. Work in patt as established until foot measures 2¼ (2½)" less than total desired length. Toe: Rnd 1 : K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of instep,

Make it! Knits

Z Beginner Y

Emerson Hat by Erica Jackofsky

Emerson Hat is worked flat in a pattern of knits, purls, and slipped Thestitches, then whipstitched with a contrasting color for a visible seam.

1 Sizes 18¾ (20½)" brim circumference and 8¼ (9¼)" tall; shown in size 20½" Yarn #3 Light – DK, about 160 yards Shown Here Filatura di Crosa Zara Plus (100% superwash merino; 77 yd [70 m]/50 g): • #28 charcoal gray (MC), 2 balls (see Notes) • #12 camel (CC), about 3½ yd (3.2 m) Yarn distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc. Gauge 16 sts and 26 rows = 4" in double rice st on larger needles; 18 sts = 4" in double rice st on smaller needles Tools • Size 6 (4 mm) needles • Size 7 (4.5 mm): straight and set of double-pointed (dpn) needles • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle

Notes L The sample hat used all of two balls

of yarn; consider purchasing an extra ball for assurance. See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

74 Make it! Knits 2014

Stitch Guide

Double Rice Stitch in Rows: (even number of sts) Row 1 : (RS) Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back (wyb), *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 2 : Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), purl to end. Row 3: Sl 1 kwise wyb, *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 4: Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to end. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt. Double Rice Stitch in Rounds: (even number of sts) Rnd 1 : *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rnd 2: Knit. Rnd 3: *P1, k1; rep from * around. Rnd 4: Knit. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

Hat

With CC and smaller needles, CO 84 (92) sts. Change to MC. Purl 1 row. Work double rice st in rows (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 1½ (2)" from CO, ending with a RS row. Change to larger needles. Cont in patt until piece measures 6½ (7½)" from CO, ending with

Row 3. Do not turn. Change to dpn. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Shape crown: Rnd 1 : *K21 (23), pm; rep from * 3 more times. Rnd 2: *K1, ssk, work in double rice st in rnds (see Stitch Guide) to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1; rep from * 3 more times—8 sts dec’d. Rep Rnd 2 every rnd 7 (8) more times—20 sts rem. Next rnd: *K1, sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso, k1; rep from * 3 more times—12 sts rem. Next rnd: *K1, ssk; rep from * 3 more times—8 sts rem. Cut yarn, thread tail through rem sts, and fasten off.

Finishing

With CC threaded on a tapestry needle, use whipstitch to sew seam. Cont whipstitch up along crown dec line to center top of hat. Weave in loose ends. Block hat as desired, taking care not to stretch fabric beyond desired circumference. Find Erica Jackofsky online: www.fiddleknits.com.

Harper Point Photography

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8/28/14 12:33 PM

Kathryn Martin

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Bryony Cap

by Tammy Eigeman Thompson

imple, chunky cables dress up a rustic hat with a deep ribbed brim. You S should be able to work in the round, work basic cable crosses, and shaping. The yarn used here is a thick-and-thin worsted that knits up closer to an Aran or chunky weight.

Cable Pattern: (multiple of 12 sts) Rnds 1–4: Knit. Rnd 5: *3/3 RC (see Stitch Guide), k6; rep from * around. Rnds 6–9: Knit. Rnd 10 : *K6, 3/3 LC (see Stitch Guide); rep from * around. Rep Rnds 1–10 for patt.

Hat 1

2

Size 22" brim circumference. Yarn #4 Medium – Aran, about 280 yards Shown Here Manos del Uruguay Wool Clásica Naturals (100% wool; 138 yd [126 m]/100 g): • #702 gray, 2 skeins Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers Gauge 18 sts and 19 rows = 4" in cable patt; 16 sts and 19 rows = 4" in 1×1 rib (stretched) Tools • Size 10½ (6.5 mm) 16" circular (cir) needles and set of double-pointed (dpn) needles • Marker (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle

Brim: With cir needle, CO 88 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in 1×1 rib (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 4½" from CO. Crown: *K11, M1; rep from * around—96 sts. Work Rnds 1–10 of cable patt (see Stitch Guide) 2 times—piece measures about 9" from CO. Shape crown, changing to dpn when necessary: Rnds 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11: Knit. Rnd 2: *K1, ssk, k7, k2tog; rep from *

around—80 sts rem. Rnd 4: *K1, ssk, k5, k2tog; rep from * around—64 sts rem. Rnd 6: *K1, ssk, k3, k2tog; rep from * around—48 sts rem. Rnd 8: *K1, ssk, k1, k2tog; rep from * around—32 sts rem. Rnd 10 : *Ssk, k2tog; rep from * around—16 sts rem. Rnd 12 : [K2tog] around—8 sts rem. Cut yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle and run through rem sts. Cinch to close.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends. Find Tammy Eigeman Thompson online: www.woolencollectibles.wordpress.com.

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms

don’t know. For our master glossary, Z Z youvisit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Stitch Guide

3/3 RC: Sl 3 sts to cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn. 3/3 LC: Sl 3 sts to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn. 1×1 Rib: (multiple of 2 sts) Rnd 1 : *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rep Rnd 1 for patt. knittingdaily.com 77

Amanda Stevenson

Make it! Knits

by Cathy Carron

athy Carron turns simple ribs into plush, striking texture with a chunky yarn C in these slipper socks. Cozy and comfortable, a clever construction makes the socks easy to knit in five sizes, from toddler to adult. • CC: #2007 light blue Small woman (not shown): • MC: #1003 porcupine (light khaki) • CC: #2001 dungaree blue Large woman: • MC: #1001 lynx (medium khaki) • CC: #2014 olive Man: • MC: #1002 silver mink (light beige) • CC: #2001 dungaree blue Gauge 15 sts and 15 rows = 4" in 1×1 rib with MC on larger needles, relaxed; 14 sts and 23 rows = 4" in 2×2 rib with CC on smaller needles, relaxed. Tools • Size 11 (8 mm) set of double-pointed (dpn) needles • Size 8 (5 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn) needles • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle

1

2

Sizes 4¾ (4¾, 4¾, 6½, 6½)" foot circumference and 6 (7½, 9, 10½, 12)" from tip of toe to back of heel. To fit toddler (child, small woman, large woman, man). Yarn #6 Super Bulky and #4 Medium Shown Here Blue Sky Alpacas Bulky (50% alpaca, 50% wool; 45 yd [41 m]/100 g): • MC, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) ball(s) Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Hand Dyes (50% alpaca, 50% wool; 100 yd [91 m]/100 g): • CC, 1 ball (all sizes). Shown in colors as foll: Toddler: • MC: #1003 porcupine (light khaki) • CC: #2014 olive Child: • MC: #1002 silver mink (light beige)

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

7)" from toe tip. Leg opening: Working back and forth in rows, cont in 1×1 rib for 3 (3½, 4, 4½, 5)" more—piece measures 6 (7½, 9, 10½, 12)" from toe. Join back of heel: Place 9 (9, 9, 12, 12) sts onto each of 2 dpn. Holding these dpn parallel with RS tog, use the three-needle BO to join back of heel. Cuff: With smaller dpn, CC, and RS facing, beg at top of heel seam, pick up and knit 36 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts around leg opening. Divide sts onto 3 dpn and join in the rnd. Work in 2×2 rib for 4 (4, 5, 5, 5)". BO all sts loosely in rib. Weave in loose ends. With MC threaded on a tapestry needle, close any rem hole at toe. Find Cathy Carron online: www.cathycarron.com.

Z

Slipper

With MC and larger needles, CO 12 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 dpn, place maker (pm) to indicate beg of rnd, and join in the rnd. Rnd 1 : Knit. Rnd 2: *K1, k1f&b; rep from * around—18 sts. Rnd 3: Knit. Sizes large woman and man only: Rnd 4: *K2, k1f&b; rep from * around—24 sts. Rnd 5: Knit. All sizes: Rnd 6: *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rep Rnd 6 until piece measures 3 (4, 5, 6, knittingdaily.com 79

Z Easy Y

Ribby Slipper Socks

Make it! Knits

Z Beginner Y

Flash Mitts by Amy Polcyn

beginner project, these mitts are worked flat in an easy knit-andAgreat purl rib. Sew up the sides and leave a hole for the thumb and you’re done!

Stitches

K2, P2 Rib: (multiple of 4 sts + 2) Row 1 (RS) K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS) P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

Mitt (Make 2)

CO 34 sts. Work in k2, p2 rib (see Stitches) for 7". BO all sts in rib (knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts as you BO).

from BO edge and one 21⁄2" below the first. Rep on other edge. Fold mitt in half lengthwise so that pins at each edge match up. Use mattress st to sew seam from CO edge to the lowest pin. Leave the next 21⁄2" open for thumb opening, then sew a seam from highest pin to BO edge. Weave in all ends. Find Amy Polcyn online: www.amypolcyn.com.

Finishing

With one mitt laid flat, place 2 pins along one side edge as foll: one 1" down

1"

1

21⁄2"

Size 71⁄2" hand circumference (stretched) and 7" long Yarn #4 Medium – Worsted, about 210 yards Shown Here Lorna’s Laces Green Line Worsted (100% organic merino; 210 yd [191 m]/100 g): • #501 argyle (red/blue), 1 skein Gauge 18 sts and 25 rows = 4" in rib patt, stretched

31⁄2"

Tools

• Size 8 (5 mm) needles • 4 pins • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

80 Make it! Knits 2014

Z

this section will be the thumbhole

Joe Coca

Joe Coca

Make it! Knits

Z Beginner Y

Tweed Scarflet by Sarah Fama

his cowl is just a rectangle of knitting, all in garter stitch, with a simple accent of T four buttons to keep it closed. This is a great beginner project, consisting of knit stitches, a short piece of knitting, and super-simple buttonholes. project along to make sure that your buttonholes can stretch enough to accommodate the button diameter. L Sometimes it can be difficult to find buttons with eyes large enough to be sewn with yarn. If that’s the case, use a regular sewing needle and matching thread.

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Scarflet

1 Size 5¼" wide and 26" long Yarn #4 Medium - Worsted, about 130 yards Shown Here Berroco Blackstone Tweed (65% wool, 25% mohair, 10% angora; 130 yd [119 m]/50 g): • #2637 plum island, 1 skein Gauge 18 sts and 32 rows (16 ridges) = 4" in garter st Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles • Tapestry needle • Four 3⁄4" buttons

Z

WS row, so next row will be on RS. Buttonhole row (RS) K4, yo, k2tog, k12, ssk, yo, k4—2 buttonholes; no change in st count. Knit 31 rows, ending with a WS row. Work buttonhole row once more. Knit 7 rows. BO all sts.

Finishing

Block to measurements. Sew buttons on RS of scarflet, on end opposite buttonholes, taking care to align the buttons with the buttonholes. Weave in ends. Find Sarah Fama on Ravelry as Caryatid.

CO 24 sts. Beg with a RS row (mark this side; see Notes), work in garter st (knit every row) until piece measures 21" from CO—about 84 garter ridges. End with a

yarnover (yo) After knitting the stitch before the yarnover, bring the yarn forward between the needle tips. When you knit the next stitch, bring the yarn up and over the right-hand needle to the back of the work again, ready to knit the next stitch. The strand that travels over the top of the needle is the yarnover, and it counts as one stitch.

Notes L For ease of working, mark the right

side with a removable marker or piece of yarn looped through the front of a stitch. L To count rows in garter stitch, count purl ridges instead of individual rows. One ridge equals two rows of knitting. L When choosing buttons, bring your knittingdaily.com 83

Tweed Scarflet.indd 83

8/26/14 11:47 AM

Joe Coca

Make it! Knits

Z Easy Y

Insignia Shawl by Cecily Glowik MacDonald

egin with a long cast-on and decrease every row to make a wide and shallow B triangular shawl. Worked all in knit stitches, the stripe pattern is achieved by changing needle sizes.

1

2

Size 18¾" at widest point (neck to lower back point) and 69" long from end to end Yarn #4 Medium Weight – Worsted, about 650 yards Shown Here Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fleece (80% cotton, 20% merino; 215 yd [197 m]/50 g): • #CW-345 gold dust, 3 skeins Gauge 14 sts and 26 rows = 4" in garter stripe patt, alternating needle sizes, as directed Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm): 29" circular (cir) needle • Size 10½ (6.5 mm): 29" cir needle • Tapestry needle

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Notes L After you have worked a few rows,

Z

you may want to place a marker to indicate the right side of the fabric, to

make it easier to see which side you are working.

Stitches

Garter Stripe Pattern: Rows 1–8 With larger needle, knit. Rows 9–16 With smaller needle, knit. Rep Rows 1–16 for patt.

Shawl

With larger needle, CO 242 sts. Work Row 1 of garter stripe patt (see Stitches). Cont in patt throughout and shape shawl

as foll: Dec row K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every row 118 more times—4 sts rem; piece should measure about 18½" from CO. Next row Ssk, k2tog—2 sts rem. Next row K2tog—1 st rem. Fasten off last st.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Find Cecily Glowik MacDonald online: www.cecilyam.wordpress.com.

knittingdaily.com 85

Make it! Knits

Z Intermediate Y

Serpentine Cowl by Angela Hahn

slightly more advanced project, this cowl is worked in the round and calls for A chart reading and lace knitting. Patterning is worked every round, creating rapid diagonal movement and revealing the bold motif in relatively little space.

1

2

9 sts before m, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, sl m; rep from * around—12 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every rnd 3 more times—132 sts rem. Work Rnds 1–20 of Serpentine chart once, then rep Rnds 1–14 once more. Dec Rnd 1 : *K5, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k5, p1; rep from * around—114 sts rem. Dec Rnd 2: *Ssk, p1, [p2tog] 2 times, k2tog, k1, ssk, p1, p2tog, p1, k2tog, k1; rep from * around—72 sts rem. Next rnd : *K1, p3, k2; rep from * around. Rep last rnd 5 more times. BO all sts loosely in patt.

3

Size 16½" top circumference, 27½" bottom circumference, and 8" high. Yarn #4 Medium – Aran, about 300 yards Shown Here Cascade Yarns Cash Vero (55% merino extrafine wool, 33% microfiber acrylic, 12% cashmere; 98 yd [90 m]/50 g): • #026 burgundy, 3 skeins. Gauge 19 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st; 22 sts and 29 rows = 4" in chart patt. Tools • Size 8 (5 mm): 20" circular (cir) needles • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle.

Z

See the Glossary on page 92 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit KnittingDaily.com/glossary.

Cowl

Z

CO 180 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Rnd 1 : *K1, p3, k2; rep from * around, pm after every 30th st around (after every 5th patt rep). Rnds 2–7: Work in rib patt as established. Dec rnd : *K1, ssk, k1, yo, k2, ssk, knit to 86 Make it! Knits 2014

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Find Angela Hahn online: www.knititude.com.

Serpentine 19

knit

17

purl

15 yo 13 k2tog

11 9

ssk

7

k3tog

5 sssk 3 pattern repeat

1 22 st repeat

Harper Point Photography

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glossary beg bet BO CC cm cn CO cont dec(s) dpn foll g inc k k1f&b k2tog kwise LC m(s) MC mm M1 M1R (L) p p1f&b p2tog patt(s) pm psso p2sso pwise RC rem rep rev St st rib rnd(s) RS rev sc sc sk sl sl st ssk ssp st(s) St st tbl tog WS wyb wyf yo * ** () []

beginning; begin; begins between bind off contrasting color centimeter(s) cable needle cast on continue(s); continuing decrease(s); decreasing double-pointed needle(s) following; follows gram(s) increase(s); increasing knit knit into front and back of same st knit two stitches together knitwise left cross marker(s) main color millimeter(s) make one (increase) make one right (left) purl purl into front and back of same st purl two stitches together pattern(s) place marker pass slipped stitch over pass two slipped stitches over purlwise right cross remain(s); remaining repeat; repeating reverse stockinette stitch ribbing round(s) right side reverse single crochet single crochet skip slip slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise unless otherwise indicated) slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease) slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease) stitch(es) stockinette stitch through back loop together wrong side with yarn in back with yarn in front yarn over repeat starting point (i.e., repeat from *) repeat all instructions between asterisks alternate measurements and/or instructions instructions that are to be worked as a group a specified number of times

92 Make it! Knits 2014

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2 (3, 4, 5) Stitch One-Row Buttonhole Work to where you want the buttonhole to begin, bring yarn to front, slip one purlwise, bring yarn to back (Figure 1). *Slip one purlwise, pass first slipped stitch over second; repeat from * one (two, three, four) more time(s). Place last stitch back on left needle (Figure 2), turn. Cast on three (four, five, six) stitches as follows: *Insert right needle between the first and second stitches on left needle, draw up a loop, and place it on the left needle (Figure 3); repeat from * two (three, four, five) more times, turn. Bring yarn to back, slip first stitch on left needle onto right needle and pass last cast-on stitch over it (Figure 4), work to end of row.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Backward-Loop Cast-On *Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle backward (with right leg of loop in back of needle). Repeat from *.

Cable Cast-On If there are no established stitches, begin with a slipknot, knit one stitch in slipknot and slip this new stitch to left needle. *Insert right needle between first two stitches on left needle (Figure 1). Wrap yarn as if to knit. Draw yarn through to complete stitch (Figure 2) and slip this new stitch to left needle as shown (Figure 3). Repeat from *.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

glossary Emily Ocker’s Circular Beginning Make a simple loop of yarn with the short end hanging down (Figure 1). With a crochet hook, *draw a loop through main loop, then draw another loop through this loop (Figure 2). Repeat from * for each stitch to be cast on (Figure 3). After several inches have been worked, pull on the short end (shown by arrow) to tighten the loop and close the circle.

Figure 1

Figure 3

Figure 2

I-Cord (Applied) When attaching to an edge without live stitches: With doublepointed needle, cast on number of stitches directed in pattern. With right side of garment facing, *pick up and knit one stitch from edge, slide stitches to opposite end of double-pointed needle, knit to last two stitches, knit two together through the back loop; repeat from * for I-cord.

Long-Tail Cast-On Leaving a long tail (about 1⁄2" to 1" [1.3 to 2.5 cm] for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot and place on right needle. Place thumb and index finger of left hand between yarn ends so that working yarn is around index finger and tail end is around thumb. Secure ends with your other fingers and hold palm upward, making a V of yarn (Figure 1). Bring needle up through loop on thumb (Figure 2), grab first strand around index finger with needle, and go back down through loop on thumb (Figure 3). Drop loop off thumb and, placing thumb back in V configuration, tighten resulting stitch on needle (Figure 4).

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 1

Step 1: Bring threaded needle through front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle. Step 2: Bring threaded needle through back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch on needle. Step 3: Bring threaded needle through first front stitch as if to knit and slip this stitch off needle. Bring threaded needle through next front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle. Step 4: Bring threaded needle through first back stitch as if to purl (as illustrated), slip this stitch off, bring needle through next back stitch as if to knit, leave this stitch on needle. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until no stitches remain on needles.

Figure 4

Make 1 (M1) Increases Left Slant (M1L) and Standard M1

Kitchener Stitch (St st Grafting)

Figure 3

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).

Figure 2

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the front (Figure 2).

Right Slant (M1R)

Figure 1 Figure 2 Purl (M1P)

For purl versions, work as above, purling lifted loop.

Mattress Stitch Seam Knitted Cast-On Place slipknot on left needle if there are no established stitches. *With right needle, knit into first stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and place new stitch onto left needle (Figure 2). Repeat from *, always knitting into last stitch made.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 1

With RS of knitting facing, use threaded needle to pick up one bar between first two stitches on one piece (Figure 1), then corresponding bar plus the bar above it on other piece (Figure  2). Figure 2 *Pick up next two bars on first piece, then next two bars on other (Figure 3). Repeat from * to end of seam, finishing by picking up last bar (or pair of bars) at the top of first piece.

Figure 3

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glossary Provisional Cast-On Place a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold waste yarn next to slipknot and Figure 2 around left thumb; hold Figure 1 working yarn over left index finger. *Bring needle forward under waste yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure 1), then bring needle to the front, over both yarns, and grab a second loop (Figure 2). Repeat from *. When you’re ready to use the cast-on stitches, pick out waste yarn to expose live stitches.

Short-Rows (Knit Side) Work to turning point, slip next stitch purlwise (Figure 1), bring the yarn to the front, then slip the same stitch back to the left needle (Figure 2), turn the work around and bring the yarn in position for the next stitch—one stitch has been wrapped and the yarn is correctly positioned to work the next stitch. When you come to a wrapped stitch on a subsequent knit row, hide the wrap by working it together with the wrapped stitch as follows: Insert right needle tip under the wrap from the front (Figure 3), then into the stitch on the needle, and work the stitch and its wrap together as a single stitch.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 2

94 Make it! Knits 2014

Figure 2

Standard Bind-Off This is the most common, and for many knitters, the only method for binding off. Use this method for edges that will be sewn into seams or finished in some way (such as stitches being picked up and knitted). Slip 1 stitch, *knit 1 stitch, insert left needle tip into first stitch on right needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch, and off the needle—1 stitch remains on right needle and 1 stitch has been bound off. Repeat from *.

Three-Needle Bind-Off Place stitches to be joined onto two separate needles. Hold them with right sides of knitting facing together. Insert a third needle into first stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together as one stitch. *Knit next stitch on each needle the same way. Pass first stitch over second stitch. Repeat from * until one stitch remains on third needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.

Tubular Cast-On for K1, P1 Rib (Even Number of Stitches) Leaving a tail as for long-tail cast-on, make a slipknot on right needle (counts as the first purl stitch). Insert your left thumb and index finger between two strands, with tail end on thumb side. To create the next knit stitch (Figure 1), bring needle toward you, under front strand, up between strands, over back strand to grab it and pull it under front strand to make loop on needle. To create the next purl stitch (Figures 2 and 3), take needle away from you, over both strands, under both strands, up to grab front strand and pull it under back strand to make loop on needle. Continue alternating knit and purl stitches, ending with a knit stitch. Turn work. Keeping strands crossed to preserve the last cast-on stitch, work 1 row as foll: *p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Figure 3 Figure 1

Ssk (Single Decrease) Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time (Figure 1). Insert point of left needle into front of two slipped stitches and knit them together with right needle (Figure 2).

Figure 1

Figure 3

Short-Rows (Purl Side) Work to the turning point, slip the next stitch purlwise to the right needle, bring the yarn to the back of the work (Figure 1), return the slipped stitch to the left needle, bring the yarn to the front between the needles (Figure 2), and turn the work so that the knit side is facing—one stitch has been wrapped and the yarn is correctly positioned to knit the next stitch. To hide the wrap on a subsequent purl row, work to the wrapped stitch, use the tip of the right needle to pick up the wrap from the back, place it on the left needle (Figure 3), then purl it together with the wrapped stitch.

Figure 1

Ssp (Single Decrease) Holding yarn in front, slip two stitches knitwise one at a time onto right needle (Figure 1). Slip them back onto left needle and purl the two stitches together through back loops (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Figure 2

Whipstitch With right side of work facing and working one stitch in from the edge, bring threaded needle out from back to front along edge of knitted piece.

Figure 3

project index

Alameda Cowl Page 06

Lodi Cardigan Page 08

Victor Shawl Page 10

East Hale Cardigan Page 12

Brazel Beret Page 18

Grand Palais Shawl Page 20

A Sign Of Affection Hat Page 22

Manganese Cowl Page 24

Amplified Cowl Page 26

Solstice Scarf Page 28

Waved Wrap Page 30

Mountain Ash Pullover Page 36

Oana Shawl Page 38

Knuckle Down Mitts Page 42

Big Thompson Scarf Page 44

Veronica Slouch Page 46

Wavy Lace Capelet Page 50

Leadville Cowl Page 52

Three’s a Charm Tam Page 54

Ambrosia Cowl Page 60

Flamboyant Shawl Page 62

Mixt Cowl Page 64

Overdyed Ragg Scarf Page 66

Amstel Hat Page 68

Nederland Circle Scarf Page 70

Amy’s Slippers Page 72

Emerson Hat Page 74

Bryony Cap Page 76

Ribby Slipper Socks Page 78

Flash Mitts Page 80

Tweed Scarflet Page 82

Insignia Shawl Page 84

Serpentine Cowl Page 86

Make it!

KNITS

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