Radiant Charging Circuits

Best Radiant Charging Circuits These two circuits have proven to the very best for radiant charging. You can use either circuit. John Bedini’s solid state circuit, shown at the bottom, is easier to setup and requires less parts, but both work excellent and use very little input energy. Both of these circuits resonate at exactly the proper frequency to provide “just enough” power to L1 coil. These circuits run cool because they automatically lock onto the best frequency for the battery and don’t waste power. You can run these circuits for days at a time, even without a heat sink on the transistor because they use such a small amount of energy. If you find the transistor running warm on either of these circuits, the transistor could be burned up, or you might need to put a higher ohm resistor on the base of the transistor. For example, if you use a 1K resistor on the base, the transistor will run warm, if you switch to a 2.2K it might run at room temperature. However, if you notice the transistor getting hot, it is most likely burned up and it should be considered unsafe because it could fail at anytime and put the circuit into a shorted condition. These circuits destroy transistors in a few seconds if you try to run the circuit with no charging battery hooked up. Or, if you put a capacitor on the output, that’s fine, but you cannot go above 60 volts with a 2N3055 transistor, because that is what it is rated for. If you charge a capacitor to 200 volts to test the circuit, expect the 2N3055 transistor to fail. If the charging output wires go beyond 60 volts, even one time, do not consider the transistor to be “safe.” It could burn up at anytime. Do NOT leave this charge running unattended at any time. Carry some extra 2N3055 transistors in case you happen to burn one up. They are not very expensive. You do not need a heat sink, but it is still recommended just in case. When charging batteries, it may take several days to charge it, especially batteries that aren’t conditioned for this process. As they condition, through charge/discharge cycles they should charge much faster. Start with a brand new 2N3055 or better NPN transistor and NEVER run the transistor with the output wires disconnected. Don’t use a transistor that has been run with the output disconnected because it could fail at any given time, probably when you are not paying attention! In this case, the transistor is not very expensive, it is not worth the danger of using a partially damaged transistor. If you insist on using a bad transistor, be sure to watch the circuit carefully because the transistor could short out at anytime and cause excessive heat! The easiest way to know that the battery is done taking a radiant charge, it will start boiling, just like it does with a conventional charger. Otherwise you can stop the charger when you disconnect it and see a stable resting voltage above 12.00 volts. If you charge your battery and it goes down below 12 volts and starts boiling, it probably has shorted plates. The plates

have got so corroded that you have effectively lost 2 volts from the battery forever, and there is no way to get it back. Stop charging batteries that begin boiling below 12 volts! The battery should charge above 12 volts and then start quietly boiling. This charging process should take days on a discharged battery, or hours on a fully charged battery. You can use a high ohm coil (50 ohms) for the main L1 coil, but it won’t charge a battery very good. Batteries have low ohm resistance (less than 10 ohms). You want to use a coil that has lower ohms, about 2-8 ohms because it will charge the battery better. This applies for any radiant charging circuit. Some people use 0.50 ohm coils and it works fine. It is better to have thick wire with less wraps than very small gauge wire with lots of turns for the main winding. You can use any normal core material to wrap the wire. You should be using laminated transformer steel, black sand and epoxy, powdered iron and epoxy, Xerox copier machine developer powder (iron) and fiberglass resin, welding rods, or non magnetic silicon steel. Better yet, you don’t need a core material for these circuits, they work almost as good with no core material (air core).

Here is the circuit I am using for the picture above. This is originally designed by John Bedini, however it is not exactly as he recommends, since he recommends using a 3rd coil. I find the 3rd coil to be unnecessary, unless you have a specific reason to use a 3rd coil.

For those of you who don’t want to solder. You can build this circuit without soldering any transistors. You will just need a step down transformer from Radio Shack, 12 volts, 3.0 amps. You will need an automotive spark module from an early 80’s car without computer controlled ignition. 1981 VW Rabbit or 1984 Toyota is a good example. You then use the distributor trigger wires and hook them to the AC current, which tricks the module into firing. The module is robust and designed to handle a low ohm primary coil. Throw away the stock ignition coil and use your own coil. Then just send the high voltage “back EMF” pulses from the coil and charge up your battery. This is a simple circuit that I developed. I’ve never seen anyone else use this, but I’ve tested it and it works very well. Though, it is not the most efficient circuit. You’ll want to have a very high inductance coil because a lot of current is allowed to pass at 60 hz. Ideally you would want to raise the frequency to at least 400 hz to reduce power consumption and raise the output energy. The charging coil will use less energy as you raise the frequency because it the reactance (resistance) of the coil increases as you increase the frequency.

Here is a circuit I built using a 1980’s Toyota spark module. The module uses the exact circuit shown above, and triggers with 60hz AC current from the main input. The frequency is not adjustable. It charges very well, but consumes a lot of power. If you want to build this circuit, you will need a 2.0 or 3.0 amp 12 volt transformer, and you will need a high inductance (heavy core) for the charging coil. The benefit is that it is very solid, since no soldering is required, and the module won’t burn up if it runs while disconnected. These modules can be had for very cheap.

And lastly, there is this circuit, which could be scaled up and made into a very large and powerful charger. Be careful because you might end up with too much current draw. Adjust this circuit until your transistors do not run warm. This circuit seems slightly harder to get right than the Bedini circuit and Meissner circuit’s shown earlier. If you could combine this circuit idea, with multiple coils, with the circuit of Meissner or Bedini, you would have the best efficiency, though I haven’t tried that yet. Note that these extra coils will not raise the peak voltage, but they will lower the total coil impedance and raise the overall charging efficiency. With each extra coil that you add, you are going to charge the battery a little faster. From the circuits I’ve seen, everyone winds the additional coils on the same core. I’ve not seen anyone winding the separate coils on a different core. The idea is, the additional coils add exponential power to the other coils when wound together on the same core. For best results, you should wind the entire thing as one unit. Do not add more coil windings later. They should all be wound together on the same core at the same time.

Good luck! Copyright 2009 by Charles Seiler