Afv Modeller - Issue 10 - 6 - T55 - Back To Basics

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:49 pm

Page 52

Back to Basics A d a m W i l d e r b u i l d s t h e n e w Ta m i y a k i t f ro m t h e b o x Many modelers, including myself, write

knowledge. Without these basic techniques,

model is superbly detailed and molded,

articles about incorporating methods such

the experts would be unable to supply this

assembles with minimal effort, and gives

as the use of photo-etched brass, soldering,

publication with the nice work you view every

you one of the most numerously deployed

extensive scratch-building and varying

two months. Everyone wanting to get into

aesthetically-pleasing armored fighting

painting techniques that allow us to produce

the hobby of modeling must know these

vehicles ever manufactured.

the work covered in this magazine. That is

techniques. I also hope to demonstrate that

great for the veteran modelers but some of

if you choose your subjects properly, you

Getting started

us are better bankers, plumbers, business

can make a beautiful model with minimal

The kit provides you with the opportunity to

executives, athletes and waiters. Some of

after-market parts and the years of

make a number of different T-55 variants for

the subscribers to this and similar

experience needed to properly apply them.

some of the many countries in which it was

publications may feel that their own talents

52

deployed and manufactured. I chose the

are in different areas, and they might not

Choosing the Subject

option to build one of the T-55s used by the

ever be able to produce armor models like

With careful research, you will find there are

Russian army with the mounted anti-aircraft

the ones they read about every month.

a number of models on the market that you

machine gun.

During this article, I am going to try and

can build out of the box with minimal effort

bring to your awareness some of the basic

to get a beautiful scale armor model. If you

Photos 1 & 2

modeling techniques used by the masters

are looking to get into this hobby I would

Upon choosing the specific T-55 you would

that are often overlooked because they are

recommend the new Tamiya T-55. As I will

like to construct, I would recommend going

wrongly assumed to be common

show you with the aid of photos, this armor

through the instructions and highlighting

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:49 pm

Page 53

1 each of the directions that apply to your

at once because similar ones can be easily

model to eliminate possible confusion.

confused.

Photo two provides a view of the model’s

Photos 8 & 9

major components.

Make sure you align and glue part D12 before adding parts A4. I like to use the very

Assembling the Hull

dense Testor’s liquid glue to assemble the larger parts. It sets slowly allowing you to

Photos 3 to 5

properly position the parts.

When starting the construction of a model, I first cut and prepare all of the major parts

Photo 10

for assembly. Xuron cutters such as the

Parts D27 and D31 appear to be part of the

ones shown in photo four allow you to make

top plate. These parts need to be filled with

a flush cut in those difficult to reach areas

putty and sanded smooth on the front ends

between the sprues. Xuron snips and the

where the seam will not be hidden by the

other tools shown throughout this article can

turret.

2

be purchased at most stores Leave a bit of the sprue on the part when you cut it to

Photos 11 to 12

minimize any possible damage to the part,

Many of the toolboxes and the rear

and remove this carefully with the aid of a

cylindrical fuel tanks need to be assembled.

sharp hobby knife. If you damage the part

When assembling the toolboxes, first glue

while cleaning it you can fill in the unwanted

one of the sides with the top. If you center

hole or divot with fast drying putty.

the side properly with the top, the other

3

sides should assemble properly in place. Photos 6 & 7 The seams on the parts caused by the

Photos 13 & 14

molding process need to be removed. You

Testor’s liquid glue seen in photo 14 is a

can remove these seams with the back of

little denser and not as clean as the Tenax -

your hobby knife. Always keep plenty of new

7R seen throughout the other photos.

blades for your hobby knife on hand. A dull

However, it's great for thinning Tamiya brand

blade will only damage delicate parts such

putty, which allows you to brush on the

as the ones I am cleaning in photo 6. Be

minimal amounts needed to fill the small but

careful not to cut off too many parts to clean

unwanted seams on parts C33 and C35 53

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:50 pm

Page 54

4

5

6

7

8

9

12

13

D12

A4

10

D31

11

D27 C33

C35

14

15

that make up part of the light assembly. Let

it’s weight do the cutting. Again, glue the

parts are in place, they can be used to

the putty set for a few hours before sanding.

screening in place on the inside of the parts

properly align the rest of the torsion bars

Photo 14 shows the completed light

where the bond will be out of sight on the

with a straightedge.

assembly next to another small part I am

completed model. Photo 21

attaching with the aid of tweezers.

54

16

Photos 17 to 20

Often the larger parts of a model can be

Photos 15 & 16

When cleaning parts such as the torsion

slightly warped, requiring you to hold them

The nylon screening provided with the kit

bars, only remove the seams that you think

together for long periods of time while the

needs to be cut to size. Use a straight edge,

will be visible on the finished model. After

glue sets. When assembling large parts

a rigid surface and a sharp hobby knife to

cleaning, glue the torsion bars in place from

such as the upper and lower hull, first use

cut the soft material. Do not press the knife

the inside using a dense, slow drying glue to

small amounts of super glue in required

or you might tear the screening. Instead,

achieve a better bond. First glue a torsion

areas to quickly attach the parts together.

make numerous passes with the knife letting

bar in each of the four corners. After these

After the quicker drying super glue sets you

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:50 pm

Page 55

can reinforce the bond with regular liquid plastic cement.

17

18

19

20

21

22

Photos 22 & 23 The only problem I encountered with this kit were large grooves on the rear of the fenders and turret for the placement of parts. These grooves should be filled with putty and sanded smooth. After filling the grooves, the areas on parts D10 and D11 need to be filed smooth as shown in photo 23 before gluing them in place. Photo 24 shows the filled groove and reworked support. The support on the rear toolbox also needs to be shortened.

Photos 24 & 25 The seams on the running gear need to be removed. Use coarse sandpaper to remove the seams, then buff the sanded areas with finer sandpaper. Photo 25 shows both the parts needed to assemble the drive and idler wheels. The hubs fit much more snugly into the wheels eliminating the slope encountered on the older Tamiya kits. The tight fit of these hubs is much more suitable

D11

for accommodating the heavier after-market tracks that are available.

The Turret Photos 26 & 27 Before assembling the bottom and top parts of the turret, holes need to be drilled to

23

24

accommodate specific parts for the T-55 variant you are building. Photo 26 shows the turret and various parts included to build the various cupolas for the different variants.

Photos 28 & 29 I glued the covering for the mantlet to the turret before assembling parts B13 and B14. These two parts do not fit snugly against the covering like they should. Just superglue one side of the part and hold it in place for a

grab-handles after they are glued into place.

Photos 34 to 36

second. After the first side is glued firmly,

These flaws can be fixed by adding a little

By this time I am sure there are a number

add a little super glue to the other side then

thinned putty then blending it with the

good quality turned brass and aluminum gun

push the part into place while the super glue

texture of the turret.

barrels on the market for this model-

sets. After the super glue sets, add a little liquid plastic glue to straighten the joint.

however, the gun provided with the kit will do Photos 32 & 33

fine. The muzzle must be properly aligned

The injection-molded tie-downs are close to

and glued together first, I use a Flex-I-File to

Photos 30 & 31

scale but are a bit tedious to assemble. Like

clean the puttied seams on the gun and

Parts such as the grab-handles are very

the fender supports on the rear of the hull

other cylindrical parts while keeping their

delicate and can easily be broken as you

displayed in photo 23, a divot will be present

proper contours. I accidentally ruined some

clean them. Sand off as much of the seams

between part C52 and the turret after

weld detail on the end of the gun barrel while

as you can before removing them from the

assembly. This will need to be filled and the

sanding the putty smooth. I recreated

sprues. Divots will still be visible around the

putty blended with the texture of the turret.

these using stretched sprue. 55

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:50 pm

Page 56

Photos 37 to 40

worth the extra cost. These tracks were also

construction photos. With the model

Part C39 was reworked to accommodate a

needed to accommodate the weathering

constructed and cleaned, I moved into the

piano wire antenna. Photo 38 is a close-up

steps, as you will see.

painting steps.

of the assembled DShK anti-aircraft

Painting

machine gun. Tamiya might want to consider selling this little gem separately.

Before painting the assembled model it was

Photos 1 to 3

The only after-market item used on this

washed thoroughly using an old toothbrush

I first painted the model with a base coat of

model was a set of Friulmodel track links.

with soap and hot water. Washing the

acrylics. Tamiya paints are very user-friendly

Although the vinyl tracks provided with the

assembled model removes any oils and

and adhere well to the plastic. Vallejo-Air

kit are very good, they still cannot compare

dust leftover from handling and construction.

acrylics are more difficult to spray but give a

to the look of realism obtained when using

I took the photos of the assembled

wonderful finish. I use both Vallejo dilutant

these workable metal links. Friulmodel tracks

unpainted model to show some more details

and tap water to thin the Vallejo-Air colors. I

are fairly easy to assemble and are definitely

that might have been missed in the

airbrushed over the base-coat of Tamiya

25

28

B14

26

27

29

30

32

33

B13

31

C52

34

56

35

36

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:50 pm

Page 57

colors with lighter colors of green focusing

37

38

the lightest hues on the upper hull and turret top. Shading the model in this fashion will add a false shadow to your model, giving it depth. You will need a good quality airbrush to perform this step. After applying the lighter hues of green, I airbrushed a coat of acrylic gloss over the entire model and running gear. The gloss will protect the base-coat and work with the following weathering steps to give a look of painted steel to the completed model. After letting the gloss set

39

40

for an hour, I started adding fusions to the model. This is the first weathering step that slightly reduces the gloss while enhancing the green tones of your model. Using artist oils, I mixed more green and yellow colors, placed them onto the model in small amounts as shown, then blended them using a brush dampened with turpentine. Make sure you use vertical downward strokes on the model’s sides to represent washing from the rain.

Photo 4 I decided to use the decals provided with the kit. Modelers often try to avoid decals because of the glossy look they can produce. If your model is a recent release from a high end manufacturer, you can frequently get away with using decals as I will demonstrate. After cutting the required decals from the model and letting them soak in tap water, place them onto the model with the aid of tweezers. Have a brush handy to remove any air and water that might get trapped under the decal. You will need a decal setting solution such as Solvaset to help your decals conform to the cast texture of the turret. Again, just simply follow the directions on the label of the bottle.

Photos 5 & 6 With the base-coat and decals applied, I started painting the winter camouflage onto the T-55. Using acrylics, I airbrushed the base of the winter camouflage onto the model. You will need to view photos of vehicles with winter finishes to see the areas where the white was wiped away as a result of usage by the crew. Leave green the areas around the hatches as well as other places were the operators might stand. After spraying the base white, green chips and scratches were added.

57

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:51 pm

Page 58

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

Photos 7 to 9

finish of the green. As mentioned, the winter

white randomly over the model. These spots

After adding the green chips I brushed on

camouflage will quickly wash away

might have been splashed on while the

and blended an enamel matt off-white color.

collecting in and around seams and details.

winter camouflage was being applied to the

You want your brush to be damp while

Using a fine brush, I added a heavy wash to

vehicle. They might also be remaining areas

blending the enamels. If your brush is

all of the seams and around the details

left over from where the rest of the

soaked, you will get a thick wash instead of

using the same off-white enamel as in the

camouflage washed away. These runs and

the blended look you see in photo seven.

previous step.

spots are important because they help contribute to the muddled appearance of a

Brush over the green chips as though they

58

faded winter wash.

are not there. After this step you can see

Photos 10 & 11

how the winter camouflage looks faded as

I simulated runs in the winter wash using

though it has been outside in the field. The

Vallejo-air. Vallejo colors have some of the

Photos 12 & 13

matt off-white also gives depth to the

best brushing capabilities I have seen.

I added a number of washes to the model

camouflage while contrasting with the glossy

During this time I also added small areas of

using a mixture of artist oils and enamel

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:51 pm

Page 59

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

paints. Washes help to further highlight

random chips in the winter camouflage. You

tanks. This is also a way of adding more

details while also contributing to the false

want to perform this step to all of the

interest to the model’s finish.

shadow obtained when spraying the lighter

corners and small details that are covered

hues of green onto the base-coat. You can

with the winter camouflage. You can use this

Photo 18

add large washes over entire details as seen

step to further fade the white areas as

With both the winter wash and chipped

in photo no. 12. You can also use a fine

shown in photo 14.

paint finished and dry, I added a filter using enamels over the entire model to subtly

brush to keep the washes more precise without altering the base color as

Photos 15 to 17

blend all of the different colors giving an

demonstrated in photo no. 13. Over time

During this time I started adding the areas of

oxidized hue to the areas of white. Adding a

you will decide which types of washes you

chipped paint. I add my chips in a two-step

filter such as this will also help to blend the

prefer and when to use them.

process starting with a green that is lighter

decals with the rest of the model. Note

then the base-coat. Focus mostly on the

how I blend the colors on top of the pallet to

Photo 14

corners and sheet metal parts such as the

get an idea of the filter’s shade before

For the next step you will want to find a

fenders. You do not need to cover the entire

applying it to the model.

brush with semi-rigid bristles and cut them

model with chips. Next, I added rust over

flat with a pair of scissors. Mix a green color

the green chips again using a mixture of

Photos 19 to 21

resembling your base using acrylics. Dip

artist oils and enamels. Pigments were also

I then started working on the details such as

your flat brush into the green and wipe off

added to the mixture of rust to give it more

the anti-aircraft gun and wheels. I painted

the excess paint onto a lint-free napkin as

of a matte oxidized appearance. Do not

the anti-aircraft gun a steel color using a

shown in the photo. When you have

cover the lighter green areas entirely with

mixture of acrylics. Next, I gave the gun a

removed all of the excess paint from the

the rust. Note in photo 17 that one fuel tank

heavy wash of artist oils. After the oils dried I

brush start gently tapping the white areas

is white while the other is green. Sometimes

rubbed graphite over the gun using my

with a vertical motion to simulate more

these fuel tanks were swapped between

fingers. The rubber around the road wheels 59

AFV/10 May/June 03

60

17/4/03

3:56 pm

Page 60

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:56 pm

Page 61

was also painted during this time.

31

32

33

34

35

36

37

38

Photos 22 to 24 The log included with the model was painted with a base of acrylics then given a wash of enamels. I then attached the log to the model where I finished it's detailing. Lighter wood chips were added, then areas of brown were applied simulating its grain structure. I painted the tow cables in the same manner as I did the model.

Photo 25 Adding graphite to simulate wear was the final step needed before adding the earth colors. I placed the graphite around all of the hatches, corners of the fenders and any other place that I felt would be constantly polished by the crew and the usage of the vehicle.

Mud Although the times are changing, many modelers still feel that one uses mud and snow to simply cover mistakes. Mud and snow is a vital part of the mix when building realistic looking armor. Mud collects on vehicles in different ways. Like the winter camouflage, it is very important that you first study photos of armor to get an idea of the result you are looking for on your model. There are many colored photos of T-55s available. You need to find a picture of one of these vehicles (or a similar vehicle ) that is in the same terrain as the one you are modeling. Let’s start with the mud.

Photos 26 to 29 I was able to find good close-up photos of some Norwegian armor on manoeuvers in the snow. On these tanks I observed that the limited mud was dark and damp in appearance. With this in mind I first airbrushed a coat of dark earth to the lower hull, under the chassis, to the tracks and

Slush, Snow and Ice

had returned to notice lots of frozen slush, snow and long icicles hanging from the cars

lightly over the running gear. Pigments were

and trucks around my city.

then brushed over all of the areas of the dark

There are many articles available about

earth base and randomly to the upper hull

adding winter camouflages to models. I

and turret. The pigments were then

wanted to take this article a step further

I knew that I wanted to simulate this effect

brushed with enamel thinner to help them

giving an added sense of environment to the

on my T-55 but at the time did not know

settle into the cracks and around the details

model. This past winter in my home state of

how. I knew the icicles would be easy but it

where mud usually collects. Like the winter

Maine, located in the northeastern part of

was making realistic looking frozen slush and

camouflage and chipped paint, mud collects

the United States, was extremely cold. The

snow that had me baffled. I kept this thought

randomly leaving some areas of the model

cold was broken up by a couple spells of

in my mind while I continued to assemble

dirty while others remain clean.

warm weather quickly melting the snow,

and paint the model. When the time arrived I

which lasted about a day each. I would

felt that I had come up with a solution. A

awake the mornings after the cold weather

company from New Berlin New York called 61

AFV/10 May/June 03

62

17/4/03

3:57 pm

Page 62

39

40

41

42

43

44

AFV/10 May/June 03

17/4/03

3:57 pm

Page 63

Golden Artist Colors Inc. manufactures a number of different artist mediums to enhance, or use in conjunction with, their paints. One of the mediums they provide, called “Extra Heavy Gel (Gloss)”, is used to add texture to acrylic paints. It looks milky in appearance when you first take it of the container but solidifies to an absolutely clear glossy hard substance with just a bit of elasticity.

Photos 30 to 32 I mixed the gel with a product called “snow” manufactured by Hudson & Allen Studio to get the frozen slushy snow look I wanted. Other modellers have told me they use silica to represent snow and I imagine this would work well in place of the Hudson & Allen Studio product. I applied the snow mixture sparingly under the chassis using an old brush as shown in photo 31. The snow mixture was also placed on the upper hull in places were it might collect. I finished painting and assembling the running gear while the snow dried. I observed on both cars and trucks that areas of snow will get dirty while other areas remain clean. Earthcolored pigments dampened with enamel thinner was brushed randomly onto the snow to duplicate this effect.

Photos 33 to 36 After painting the tracks with a base coat of Tamiya Dark Earth I added another coat of dark wet mud. All of the ingredients used to make the mud are displayed in photo 32 except the Humbrol chocolate paint (which I forgot to place in the picture). You will need to experiment with the amounts of each ingredient to get the density of mud that works best for you. The inside of the track was then marked with an artist pencil and blended further with a piece of dinner napkin. The areas of worn steel on the drive and idler wheels was painted with a mixture of steel colored enamel paints then rubbed with graphite using my finger. More slushy snow was added to the outside of the tracks. After letting the snow dry for about 15 minutes, I rubbed the outside of the track with sandpaper to simulate wear on the cleats. It is important that you place the wheels and track onto the model at this time before the snow solidifies making the track

Photos 37 to 39

only under the patches of snow. Stretched

With the track and running gear in place, I

sprue is transparent but not glossy enough

could add the final details. The icicles were

and too straight. Icicles vary in thickness and

made from the transparent sprue that was

are extremely glossy in appearance. This

heated over a candle and stretched. The

problem can be easily solved by brushing

stretched sprue was then cut into random

the sprue icicles with the Golden gel straight

lengths and glued into place with super glue.

from the container. Try to make the icicles

If you view the completed model you will

thicker at their foundation where they attach

notice that I placed the icicles on the model

to the vehicle.

too rigid to place on the model.

63