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March/April 2018 9 771029 283002

18004

R44,90 (VAT incl.) Other Countries R39,39 (Excl. Tax)

26

2

5

Vintage Suitcase Rack by Denelda van der Westhuizen

8

The Ceramic Water Jug by The Clay Club

10

Chyba the Boxer: Needlefelting by Charlize Stone

16

Old Fashioned Taste: Decorative Painting by Ronel Flemming Swart

46

Lazy Susan Mosaic by Marina Giovitto Ehlers

20

Dr Owl to the Rescue: Knitting by Kirsten Rettig

48

Recycled Glass Glow Lights by Sue Human

22

Poppy the Felted Bug by Charlize Stone

50

Pot Hangers by Life is a Garden

26

Funky Rock Pigeon by Sharon Calverley

52

Keep Calm & Keep Colouring by Cá Momberg

29

Beaded Flower Bracelet by Christina Wynbergen

54

Heartland: Chalkboard Painting by Ronel Flemming Swart

36

A Polymer Patchwork Landscape by Manda Theart

62

Flying your Kite High by Jacqui Holmes

39

Birds of a Kind Necklace by Johan de Lange

66

Printed Silk Scarf by Melanie Brummer

42

Double Pack Playing Card Holder by Geert Schuiling

68

Country Landscape Mosaic by Petro Strijdom

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52

30 34 56

What to do (in and out of) the garden by Life is a Garden Super Smoothies by Life is a Garden If you build it, they will come! by Sue Human

4

Editor’s Letter

15

Book Review

60

Back Issues

71

Digital Subscriptions

72

Smalls

73

Suppliers Index

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3

The 20 year journey

T

wenty years older and 120 issues later we have arrived at a very important milestone for arts and crafts in South Africa and the questions is: where to next? In 1998 two very bold and perhaps even foolhardy people saw the need for a publication that would show people how to use crafting products, assist them in finding these products and generally help to grow the crafting sector to the benefit of all. Sharon and I set ourselves a tough task and looking back right now, knowing how rough the journey has been, I am not totally sure we would have gone down this road if he had known fully what was required of us. Magazine publishing does not allow one a "normal" nine to five job - your working hours are dictated by inflexible printing deadlines to the extent that a friend talking about their recent dream six week vacation can literally tip you over the edge as you recall the last long weekend break you indulged in a few years back. You work, you meet the deadline, you catch your breadth, you start again. In recent years we had the assistance of our grown children and Lauren, Hannalie, Marichen and Marietjie to share the workload, but as they have one by one moved on to new challenges, Sharon and I once again have arrived at the point where we need to consider how we want to spend the next twenty years. (Lauren and young Owen have chosen the rural life in Sedgefield and Kim is running her own business - we wish them every success as they start their own new chapters!) Do we continue publishing two

[email protected]

ISSN 1029 2837

PUBLISHING EDITOR Owen Calverley [email protected] SUB-EDITOR Sharon Calverley [email protected]

separate magazines in the current harsh economic climate where magazine compete with basic foodstuffs in the family budget or is it time to relook at how we are serving this sector. In 1998 the arts and crafts sector was unsophisticated with opportunities for people to open their own craft supply stores. We saw ceramics, scrapbooking, decoupage and beading each take their turn as the #1 most popular craft. We saw rival publishers launch niche titles to benefit from these crafts, only to fade away when tastes changed. Craftwise on the other hand promised to serve ALL crafts and I can honestly say that we stuck to that promise . Each "#1 craft" was given more space in Craftwise, but the rest of the crafts have never been neglected. That has always been our secret ingredient: in diversity there is strength. Ten years back we spun off Stitches Magazine to focus on the needlecraft sector and Stitches has done well, overtaking Craftwise in popularity, which means that we need to factor that into our plans for the next twenty years. The only constant in life is change, so you can look forward to some new things in coming months and years. Thank you for your support over the past years and thank you in advance for your continued support!

086 427 4480

PO Box 193, Mossel Bay 6500

The print version of Craftwise Magazine is sold in Craft Supply Shops, Stationers, Supermarkets, Chain Stores & Newsagents throughout Southern Africa. Available by subscription worldwide in both print and digital formats.

SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADVERTISING, EDITORIAL & GENERAL ENQUIRIES Mon-Thurs 09:00 - 16:00 Fri: 09:00 - 13:00 Tel: 044 691 3763 NEW!!! Fax: 086 427 4480 PUBLISHED BY Tucats Media CC CK1995/51811/23 PO Box 193, Mossel Bay, 6500, South Africa

While the publishers take every care to ensure that the content of this publication is accurate, we are human and cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions that may occur. The views expressed in articles are not necessarily those of the publisher, staff or contributors. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system by any means without the prior permission of the publisher. The copyright of designs featured in this magazine remains with the originators of the designs and such designs may not be used for financial gain in any way unless the permission of the copyright holder has been obtained.

OFFICIAL WEBSITE www.tucats.co.za

While every effort is made to safeguard original material, no responsibility for damage or loss can be taken for samples, manuscripts, illustrations, photos and images while in our possession or in transit.

RETAIL DISTRIBUTION RNA - Fransie Smuts: 011 248 3500

The editor reserves the right to edit material submitted and also to reject any unsuitable advertising or editorial material.

PRINTED BY

www.facebook.com/craftwisemag

Vintage suitcases In this project we will be turning a blank wooden drawer into a stunning vintage suitcase. You can use your own embellishments or save time by purchasing the kit.

REQUIREMENTS ŸWooden stacker drawers ŸFrench Collection craft paint: Fabulux ŸPaintbrushes ŸStencil of your choice ŸTexture paint ŸPallet knife Ÿ80 grit Sandpaper ŸTile scorer

by Denelda van der Westhuizen for Creative Talents Craft Shop

ŸRuler ŸPodge ŸDark wax ŸBlack permanent ink stamp pad ŸCreative Talents travel themed stamps ŸResin suitcase sets ŸCraft paints in: black, gold, grey and white ŸMasking tape

ŸStencil brushes ŸGlue gun ŸLeather strips ŸCraft glue Internet access and laser printer to download and print travel tags

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INSTRUCTIONS 1. Basecoat the set of drawers with the grey craft paint. Remember to also paint the bottom and inside of the drawers. Allow to dry.

Collection paint. Allow to dry.

2. To give the illusion of suitcases stacked on top of each other, score lines on the sides and front of the stacked drawers with the tile scoring tool and a ruler.

Allow ink to dry. Remember to envision the drawers as 3 suitcases on top of each other and not 1 solid item. Use the main photo as a guide. 8. Use white paint and a round hog hair brush to stencil onto the side of the outer drawer. Repeat the stencil on the inner drawer if desired. All these little accents create a stunning end result!

The latches will eventually be positioned along the front line.

9. Take an old rag and dip the corner into the dark wax. Apply the wax to the drawer with a light circular motion. Use the scored lines drawn in the beginning as a guideline. Only apply wax to the corners, edges and in the grooves of the score lines.

5. Once the drawer is completely dry, sand lightly with an 80 grit sandpaper. Keep sanding until some of the grey basecoat starts showing through. Sand a bit more on the corners and edges to achieve a weathered look. Lightly sand over the texture paint until some white texture paint is visible. Wipe all excess dust away with a dry paintbrush or cloth. 3. Position your stencil just under the drawer handle. Keep it in place with masking tape. Use a pallet knife to apply a thick layer of texture paint. Make sure the texture paint is applied evenly. In one motion lift the stencil off. Repeat on all the drawers. Also stencil an image on the top of the set of drawers. Allow to dry.

6. Download travel tags from the internet and print them with a laser printer. Cut them out and randomly podge onto the drawers. Allow the podge to dry before applying more layers. 10. This step can be done while waiting for previous steps to cure/dry. Give all the resin items a basecoat of black paint. Make sure they are covered completely. Once the basecoat has dried, dry-brush with

7. Using black ink and your choice of clear stamps, randomly stamp the decals onto the drawers as desired.

4. Paint over the stencil with the French 6

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grey and gold to colour the items. Use gold for the handles and clips and grey for the corners and clasps. This will make the findings look more authentic. 11. Using craft glue or a glue gun, glue the leather straps onto the drawers. It is more visually pleasing to glue them in double or triple rows.

12. Mark the positions where the latches will meet the leather strips with a line of masking tape on each side of the outer box.

13. Using craft glue or a glue gun, stick down all of the findings. Place the handles at the opening of each draw with the clips over the lines you scored. Also attach the corners on the sides and back along with the stoppers and the hinges. Your drawers should look like stacked suitcases now!

For more information contact Danelda at Creative Talents Craft Shop Tel: 016 427 1030 www.creativetalents.co.za Craftwise

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The Ceramic Water Jug

by The Clay Cub

The perfect finishing touch to your guest room - a mosaiced water jug for the dresser!

REQUIREMENTS Ÿ Ceramic jug with glazed inside Ÿ Four 3D flowers Ÿ Four magnolia flowers Ÿ Two small heart flowers Ÿ Four small discs and four small dots Ÿ Four fat and four long leaves Ÿ Three packets of ceramic tiles

Ÿ Six 10 x 10 cm imprint tiles Ÿ Grout Ÿ Flex glue Ÿ Old towel Ÿ Sponge Ÿ Toothpick

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Start by making a border from the ceramic tiles around the top and bottom of the jug. TIP: use an old towel that's folded up to support the jug on its side so the tiles don't slip off.

4. Cut the imprint tiles into random shapes and place them so that they fill up the gaps between the flowers.

retains peaks and valleys – add more water. If it settles immediately – add more grout. The right balance is if the grout settles sluggishly. Now liberally smear the grout over the surface of the tiles, ensuring that you force grout between all the tiles and those on the edge of the mosaic. Take a little grout with your finger and rub between the tiles on the border and the base all around the edge to ensure that you have filled the little gaps. Using a spatula, remove as much of the excess grout as possible. Sprinkle a little dry grout over the entire mosaic and leave to dry for a few minutes. Using old scrunched up newspaper in a circular motion, remove all the extra grout. If you find a pothole or crater, rub a little grout into the gap until it is filled.

5. Let the project dry overnight before starting the grouting. 2. Use a pencil to draw the curls on the ceramic jug and start placing large flowers in the centre of the jug with the leaves under the petals. Glue them down. Place the rest of the flowers where you would like them and glue down. 3. Cut some of the ceramic tiles in half. Shape them to fit the curls and glue them on the pencil line, curling around the dots and discs.

Leave the project to dry for half an hour and remove any remaining grout with your fingernail or damp cloth.

6. Buff the ceramic jug, then use a toothpick to clean out any bits of grout in the imprinted tiles. GROUTING Empty most of the grout into a container and slowly add water, stirring all the while till you have the consistency of toothpaste A good indication of the right consistency is when you stop stirring: if the mixture

All inserts available from The Clay Club. Tel 012 803 0772 or place your order online at www.theclayclub.co.za

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by Charlize Stone

Chyba is the Czech word for “error” or “mistake”. In this tutorial I want to teach you my golden rule: In needle felting there is no such thing as a mistake and I want Chyba, your Boxer, to be your constant reminder of that. In needle felting a mistake is just an opportunity to better or beautify your project, from now on see every “mistake” as a challenge. Opportunity awaits, start poking away! (Chyba is quite big - 37 cm, but you can make him smaller if you want.) 10

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REQUIREMENTS ŸWool roving: White (400g), chestnut brown (100g), dark brown (15g) and black (15g)

ŸNeedle felting sponge ŸA felting needle Ÿ16 mm glass eyes

ŸStrong thread (All materials available from Charlize Stone - see Source at end of project)

bottom opposite side of the head. Repeat this step for the other eye and make sure they are aligned. Start with one eye, pull the thread tightly so that the eye appears sunken in its “socket”. Secure the thread under the head by tying a few knots. Repeat with the other eye. Do not worry about the knotted thread sticking out at the bottom of the head, you will cover it up later. (Use a small pliers to flatten the wire loop at the back of each eye. It is easier to pull the eye into the head when the wire is flattened.)

Attaching the ears: Place one ear on the side of the head, attach it at the base of the ear and let the ear fold over as in photo below.

INSTRUCTIONS Take a generous amount of white roving to make the head. Place it onto the sponge, roll it into a ball shape while poking it with the felting needle until it is nice and solid. Make the muzzle separately and needle felt it onto the head. Shape the muzzle as shown in the photos below.

Use tiny amounts of black roving, make 2 thin, long strips and attach them above and under the eye to form eyelids.

Use the diagram on page 33 as a guide.

Poke all around the outside of the eye with your felting needle until the eyelids have opened. Add small amounts of white roving to the corners of the inner and outer eyes to accentuate them.

Use black roving to make the nose and needle felt it onto the muzzle by poking it around the base of the nose. Make 2 nostrils by poking little holes on either side of the nose.

Attach the other ear in the same way. After I finished the head I realized that my boxer’s face was too “slim” and his head too round. I also made the wrinkles on his head by shading it with a darker colour which I did not like. I had to make his muzzle much fuller, his face less round and only use indentations for the wrinkles and not a darker brown to shade it. Here was my first “opportunity” to better my work. I added roving onto his face where the face was too slim. I also added roving to his head to re-shape it. When I was happy with his fuller face, I added the “wrinkles” to his muzzle and head by only poking the indentations and not shading it with a darker colour. In the photo below I changed the one half of the face for you to see the difference.

Shade the head using brown, chestnut brown and black. Punch indentations on both sides of the head (above the muzzle) to form the eye sockets. Make sure the eye sockets are aligned. Use strong thread to insert the eyes. Thread it through the wire loop of the glass eye and thread both ends through the needle. Insert the needle where the eye socket is and push it through to the

Using chestnut brown roving for the ears. Take a long piece of roving and fold it in a triangle. Take your time to work on the ears because they must be nice and thin when finished (about 3 mm). Use the diagram as a reference.

For the body I used about 300g of white roving. Needle felt the body into the shape as shown on the diagram. Make the legs (refer to diagram) leaving Craftwise

11

enough fluff at the base of all the legs for attaching them to the body. Attach the limbs and then you can attach the neck to the back of the head as shown in photo.

Here is where my next "opportunity" arose… after attaching the legs and head, my dog could not stand on his own. His head and body were too heavy for his legs which were too thin.

Congratulations on completing you first “mistake-proof” project. Never be scared to take risks when needle felting. You can always re-shape, add wool where needed or reduce the size by poking that area more. Needle felting is a very forgiving craft.

Remember…no mistakes - only opportunities. In the next issue of our Kennel Club Series, we will be going a bit “dotty”.

I attached white roving to the legs, wrapping it around the leg like one would wrap a bandage. Needle felt it onto the legs, keep adding wool until the legs are nice and firm and he can stand all on his own. Needle felt a tail as per diagram leaving a bit of fluff at the base and attach it to the back of the body. Fill the back of the head and shape it by using white roving. When the head has the correct shape you can start shading the back of the head as well as the body. (I left his feet white, but you can shade your Boxer as you like.)

SOURCE: Contact Charlize for kits and products on 060 963 3606 or e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.charlizestone.com Facebook: Charlizestone 12

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Enlarge templates from A4 to A3 Front leg Make 2 1 reversed

Head Top view

Head Top view Ear Make 2 1 reversed

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Enlarge templates from A4 to A3 Tail Back Paw Make 2

Hind leg Make 2 1 reversed

Body

Front Paw Make 2

14

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Paint Techniques: Decorative Finishes To Enhance Any Space Author: Winnie Saayman ISBN: 9781928376231 Softcover, 128 pages Upcycling furniture, giving an old piece a facelift or just adding that special touch – this books will show you how. Whether it’s old second-hand furniture that you want to upcycle, or a modern piece that needs a soft, aged look, this book shows you how to transform an old wooden piano, a metal cabinet, cement floors, tables and chairs, a plain built-in wardrobe, brick wall, staircase and even an entire bathroom into works of art with an innovative approach to paint techniques. The author starts off with basic information on understanding colour and how it can affect you and the space you live in, followed by a description of all the tools and products you will need for the techniques and projects in this book. Clear step-by-step photographs and instructions show you how to apply the different paint techniques like colourwash, layering, distressing, ombré, gilding, stencilling, dragging,

"Shop in your pajamas"

wood graining and more, to any surface or piece of furniture in your home. More than 40 inspiring projects are accompanied by beautiful photographs of the finished look, easy instructions and helpful tips to enable you to create pieces that are original and somewhat out of the ordinary. Available at all good book stores or contact Metz Press 021 913 7557 or [email protected]

Sat Mar 17 & 31 (Easter) Sat April 14 & 28 Sat May 12 Closed for Winter

www.thefatquarter.co.za Craftwise

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Old Fashioned Taste 16

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Happiest flower in the garden is the pansy, without doubt. As it unfolds its petals, it at times looks inside out. Terry Hoffman - "Pansies"

REQUIREMENTS ŸWooden box and frame ŸWooden or Plaster of Paris mouldings ŸGlue gun ŸDecoArt Decorating Paste ŸFaux glazing medium mixed 1:1 with

paste ŸNylon round brushes ŸSmall shader ŸFineliner ŸAmericana Decor light satin varnish (for

final coating) ŸMulti-purpose sealer to use on the raw

wood ŸTransfer paper ŸPencil ŸWeathered wood crackle ŸGold metallic paint

ŸAmericana Acrylic Paints: Khaki tan Buttermilk Alazarin crimson Bubblegum pink Red violet Black plum Coral Burnt orange Marigold Purple pizzazz Country blue White Leaf green Irish moss Black green Soft black

by Ronel Fleming Swart email: [email protected]

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Seal the box and the frame with multi-purpose sealer mixed 1:1 with khaki tan. You might need 2 coats.

5. Transfer the pattern to the inside of the wooden box. (Outline slightly so as not to lose the pattern.)

2. Paint the background with buttermilk and khaki tan. Use either stippling or paint it very wet, using crisscross strokes.

6. Basecoat the flowers in the colours of your choice. Apply the basecoat in two layers, following the direction of the veins in the flowers and petals.

3. Paint the frame with metallic gold, then leave to dry. Apply a thick coat of weathered wood crackling medium. Let dry for 60 minutes, then apply a coat of buttermilk. Cracks will appear almost immediately. To age the frame even further you can scratch the cracks open a little more with a blade. 4. Paint the mouldings with the same colour scheme. Dry-brush with buttermilk and lightly touch with gold.

7. Mix the decorating paste and glaze medium 1:1 to a smooth consistency - it must roll off your brush, i.e. not too thick. Build up the flowers and leaves, applying the paste thickly, rolling it off your brush sideways. Several coats may be needed, as it does shrink as it dries. Build up as many layers as you like, pulling in veins into the flowers. 8. Wash colour into the flowers and leaves, using the following colours: Pink flower: Alizarin crimson and bubblegum pink, shaded with red violet and black plum. Orange flower: Coral, burnt orange and some marigold, shaded with black plum. Purple/blue flower: Purple pizzazz and country blue, shaded with black plum. Foliage: Leaf green, Irish moss. Shade with black green.

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9. I kept on shading and highlighting over and over to create more depth. Use black green to shade the centre vein into the leaves.

10. Once you are satisfied with all the shading, you can "dry-brush" very gently with white to create the built-up effect.

11. Paint in the little pansies faces now: dot with yellow, thin lines with soft black. Add the white commas framing the little faces.

12. Use the glue gun to stick the frame to the box and then to glue the mouldings in place.

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Pattern

Enlarge or reduce to fit frame Craftwise

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Dr Owl to the Rescue! 20

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by Kristen Rettig www.knitrowan.com

Nothing beats the blues like a hot water bottle. Make yours extra snugly with this Dr Owl knitted cover. REQUIREMENTS • Yarn: 1. Rowan Pure Wool Worsted, colour Granite plus scrap of contrasting yarn for leaves

ABBREVIATIONS: C1F: slip next stitch to CN and hold in front, K next stitch, K stitch from CN (2 sts.)

• Needles: 4½ mm circular needle, 40 cm long

C1B: slip next stitch to CN and hold in back, K next stitch, K stitch from CN (2 sts.)

• 2 markers, cable needle, darning needle

BC: slip 3 stitches to CN and hold in back, K next 2 stitches then K 3 from CN (5 sts.)

• 2 small, two-hole buttons for eyes

FC: slip next 2 stitches to CN and hold in front, K next 3 stitches then K 2 from CN (5 sts.)

Gauge: 20 stitches x 25 rows per 4 inches (10 cm)

K1FB: K1 through front and back of stitch (to increase)

INSTRUCTIONS Starting at the bottom, cast on 48 stitches, place marker A at beginning of row and marker B at 24th stitch. Knit in the round increasing 4 sts. on each row as follows: (knit to one st. before marker, K1fb, SM, K1fb, K to end) repeat. Increase this way for 6 rows to 72 stitches. Check size, make more or less increases to customize. Next, knit 8 rows then begin pattern below. Keep both markers in; marker A is the beginning of round, marker B will be used again at shoulder decreasing.

Rounds 1-6:

K5, p1, k1, p1, k to end, slipping marker B and knitting all “back” stitches.

Round 7:

K6, C1F, knit to end.

Round 8:

K7, C1F, knit to end.

Round 9:

K8, C1F, knit to end.

Round 10:

K9, C1F, knit to end.

Round 11:

K10, C1F, knit to end.

Round 12:

K11, C1F, knit to end.

Round 13:

K12, C1F, p16, knit to end.

Round 14:

K10, C1B, k6, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 15:

K9, C1B, k6, p1, BC, FC, p1, knit to end.

Round 16:

K8, C1B, k7, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 17:

K7, C1B, k8, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 18:

K17, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 19:

K6, C1B, k9, p1, k10 p1, knit to end.

Round 20:

K17, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 21:

K5, C1B, k10, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 22:

K4, C1B, k12, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 23:

K3, C1B, k12, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 24:

K2, C1B, k13, p1, K10, p1.

Round 25:

K1, C1B, k14, p1, BC, FC, p1, knit to end.

Rounds 26-30:

K17, p1, k10, p1, knit to end.

Round 31:

K17, p1, BC, FC, p1, knit to end.

Rounds 32-41:

Knit all stitches.

Now measure your work and add more or less knit rows to suit your bottle. To decrease for shoulders: (K2tog, k to 2 sts. before marker B, k2tbl). SM and repeat decs. for back, 4 sts. dec. each row. Repeat this dec. row each row to 48 sts. Begin funnel: K2P2 rib for 4 in (10 cm). or to fit. BO loosely. Make 2 leaves as follows: CO 5 sts. Row 1:

(RS) k2,yo, k1,yo, k2 (7 sts.)

Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl Row 3: K3,yo, k1,yo, k3 (9 sts.) Row 5:

SSK, k5, k2tog (7 sts.)

Row 7: SSK, k3, k2tog (5 sts.) Row 9: SSK, k1, k2tog (3 sts.) Row 11: Sl 1, K2tog, PSSO (1 st.) Fasten off. Sew on leaves using a slip stitch. Sew on button eyes and seam bottom. Fold bottle in half and fit through funnel opening. Fill with hot water and relax! The cover will fit a bottle of 19 cm x 31 cm Rowan yarns are available from Arthur Bales (011) 888 2401 Craftwise

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DIY in the garden by Charlize Stone

A very easy project that can easily be made by a beginner.

Take care when using needle felting tools as you can quite easily prick yourself! REQUIREMENTS AND INSTRUCTIONS ŸRed, black and white wool roving ŸFelting needle ŸFelting sponge

1. Take ±10 g of red wool and roll it into a ball. Needle felt it until it is a nice solid ball. 2. Use the diagram as an indication to shape the head and body.

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Contact Charlize for kits and products on 060 963 3609 Email [email protected]. Website: charlizestone.com. Facebook: Charlizestone

3. Needle felt an indentation line from the head, down the middle to the body. 4. Cover the head, middle line as well as the body with black wool roving. 5. For the eyes: Make 2 small white circles and 2 smaller black circles. 6.

Attach it to the head.

7. Use black wool to make 10 small circles and attach them onto the wings. 8. Make 2 little antennae and attach it to the head just above the eyes. Well done, your Poppy is finished!!

Diagram

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www.beyondlaser.co.za [email protected] T 011 674 1645 M 082 920 9258 CNC Co2 Laser Cutting Machines Non metal cutting and engraving. Such as wood, perspex, leather, paper, cardboard etc. Suitable for arts & crafts, Advertising, Leather apparel, Model and Studio industry.

CNC Routers Engraving Machines Cutting and engraving, prototyping and carving in a wide variety of materials. Suitable for manufacturing arts and crafts, decorating and advertising.

Imperial Steam by Neil Bennett

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Funky Rock Pigeon This is a fun project and can be made by a teenager with a bit of guidance. Decorate your rock pigeon with anything from wool to beads - the choice is yours! This funky bird can be used as a small accent cushion, or if you carefully insert a dowel in the bottom and attach it to a sturdy base, you will have a fun décor item!

by Sharon Calverley

REQUIREMENTS Ÿ 2 sheets (30 cm x 45 cm) of grey wool felt. You can

purchase this online from www.thefatquarter.co.za Ÿ Off cuts of fabric and different coloured wool felt Ÿ A3 sheet of copy paper and pencil Ÿ Clover chalk marker - any colour Ÿ Some round objects to use as templates for the eyes and decorative circles. My largest was 7 cm diameter and the smallest was 5 cm diameter Ÿ Embroidery thread in any colours you like as well as slightly thicker thread such as ColourSpun #8 in any colour you like 26

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Ÿ Embroidery needles to fit threads Ÿ Appliqué paper Ÿ Beads, embellishments i.e. rick rack and two buttons Ÿ Free motion foot Ÿ Sewing thread in medium/dark grey and dark blue Ÿ Doll stuffing (Fibrefill) Ÿ Sewing machine and usual sewing requirements

Suggestion: I would invest in a really good Stitch Dictionary - this is the perfect opportunity to practice embroidery stitches!

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Copy the bird pattern onto an A3 sheet of paper and cut out on the outside lines.

If you wish, you could add another layer of circles (smaller) on top of the felt circles. 13. Embellish the rick rack with embroidery. I added French knots in a contrasting colour.

2. Fold the felt in half lengthwise, right sides inside and place pattern on top. Pin in place.

14. 3. Cut out shape. This is a freestyle bird so you are going to draw your own patterns onto them. 4. Place the two bird shapes next to each other (facing each other). Your seam allowances are included in the pattern so keep in mind that you need to leave at least a ½" open all around the outside. 5. Using the chalk marker and largest circle template, draw in the eye and line behind it as a guide for placing the appliqué. Do the same with the other side. It doesn't have to be exactly the same - just similar!

6. Using the same template you used for the large eye, cut out two circles of appliqué paper. Fuse them to the back of your choice of fabric. Cut out on the lines and fuse in place.

8. Trace two smaller circles onto appliqué paper and fuse to your colour choice of wool felt. 9. Cut out on the lines then fuse the two circles onto the larger eye circles. 10. Using two strands of your choice of colour embroidery thread, blanket stitch the eye in place. TIP: You could use a naive blanket stitch instead of a regular blanket stitch - it adds a fun aspect!

11. Embellish the line next to the eye. You could couch wool or use rick rack if you wish.

7. Fit the free motion foot onto your sewing machine. Drop the feed dogs. Load your bobbin with the same dark coloured thread as you have in the top. Free motion stitch the fabric circles in place. Don't worry about being too neat with this it must be roughly stitched. The centre doesn't need to be stitched because you are going to cover it with another circle.

Attach a button to each eye.

12. Continue appliqueing circles to the bodies . Get out your Stitch Dictionary and experiment with different types of stitches to add texture. Add in some beading for fun. Don't forget to keep the ½" seam allowance open all around the outside.

Continue embellishing the body as much as you like. 15. Place the two body pieces right sides together and stitch all around using a ½" seam allowance and leaving the opening indicated on the pattern, open. Double stitch the start and stop of your stitching line. 16. Clip corners, turn right side out and push out neatly. Stuff really well with doll stuffing. When closing the opening try manipulating it slightly so that it is slightly curved. It then looks as if it has tiny feet.

17. Cut two beaks from any colour felt that contrasts with the grey felt. Stitch sides together, leaving bottom open. Trim back seams and turn right side out. 18. Fill with doll stuffing then hand stitch in place. (You don't need to turn a hem at the bottom). If you wish, make a tail with strips of felt.

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Funky Rock Pigeon templates

Leave open

Beak

Leave open

Enlarge by 200%

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Beaded Flower Bracelet

by Christina Wynbergen of Beads Direct 012 345 5466 email: [email protected] www.beadsdirect.co.za

Take time out from your hectic day to day life to chill and be creative. Beading is the perfect craft for this because not only do you focus entirely on what you are doing and all cares are pushed to one side, but you can make your own unique jewellery for a fraction of the cost of bought ones. This stylish bracelet will complement any outfit and is an easy design to make.

REQUIREMENTS AND INSTRUCTIONS (24) 6 mm Czech pearls (3) 8 mm Czech pearls 4 mm Czech crystals 11° Miyuki rocailles Clasp of your choice 1.25 m Fireline Beading needle (Materials all available from Beads Direct) Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ

1. Use a comfortable length of Fireline and thread the needle. Pick up 5 x 11° rocailles, one part of the clasp and 4 x 11° rocailles. Pass the needle through the first bead to form a circle. 2. Pick up 6 x 11°, 1 x crystal, 6 x 11°, 1 x 6 mm pearl, 6 x 11°; pass the needle through the crystal, pick up 6 x 11°. Pass the needle through all these beads 2x (to secure your work) and exit through the 6 mm pearl. 3. Pick up 1 x 11°, 1 x crystal, 1 x 11°, 1 x crystal, 1 x 11°, 1 x crystal and 1 x 11°. Pass the needle back through the 6 mm pearl, 11°, crystal, 11° and exit through the next crystal. **Pick up 1 x 6 mm pearl, 1 x 11°, 1 x 6 4. mm pearl, 1 x 11°, 1 x 6 mm pearl, 1 x crystal, 1 x

6 mm pearl, 1 x 11°, 1 x 6 mm pearl, 1 x 11° and a 6 mm pearl. Pass the needle back through the crystal you have exited from. This will form a ring. 5. Pick up 1 x 11°, 1 x 8 mm pearl and 1 x 11°. Pass the needle through the crystal on the opposite side in the opposite direction. Pick up 1 x 11°, 1 x crystal, 1 x 11°, 1 x 6 mm pearl, 1 x 11°, 1 x crystal, 1 x 11°. Pass the needle back through the crystal you have exited from. This will from a ring. Pass the needle through the next 11°, crystal, 11° and the pearl. 6. Pick up 6 x 11°, 1 x crystal, 6 x 11°, 1 x 6 mm pearl, 6 x 11°; pass the needle through the crystal, pick up 6 x 11° and pass the needle through the 6 mm pearl. Pass the needle through the next 6 x 11°, 1 x crystal, 6 x 11° and through the pearl. Repeat from the ** till you have reached the desired length.

Crystal Beads, Czech Beads SuperDuo, MiniDuo Brick & Tile Beads Silky Beads, Seed Beads Miyuki Beads, Beading Kits String Materials Beading Tools

www.beadsdirect.co.za Unit C2, Prospect Close, 311 Regency Drive, Route 21, Irene, Pretoria Tel: (021) 345 5466

Remember to add the second part of the clasp as you have added the first part. Sew away all loose ends.

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What to do in (and out of) the garden

by Life is a Garden

I

t's not really autumn yet, it's simply late summer with a 'day-old beard growth' - a lovely time of year when there is much to do and to plant in the garden... May the forest be with you! A new trend is called "forest bathing", and on March 21, (also Human Rights Day in our country), it's International Day of the Forests too. 'Forest bathing' does not entail a tiring hike through a huge plantation, and nor does it mean standing naked under a tree when it is raining, to save shower water... It means a little bit of quiet "metime" in the company of green giants, to appreciate their huge value to our planet, and our mental health in general - being in the shade and protection of trees does seem to soothe anxiety! It is therefore important that we do not allow trees to be chopped down right, left, and centre. It's equally important that we take time to choose the appropriate tree for 30

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different situations, (your local GCA garden centre will know!) and to support all treeplanting initiatives in our communities. Trees are the green lungs of our urban areas and planting them is a symbol of love for future generations to come. Smart planting - "The golden age" You may have seen that metallic colours like rose gold and copper are still on-trend. Metallic décor and plants with golden foliage or bright variegation is still very 'in' – and they create lightness and bright accents in pots or in a garden. Plant lots of dwarf Coprosma hybrids with their glowing foliage which will start intensifying as soon as it's a little cooler. The foliage of a star jasmine called 'Summer Sunset' is coppery and gold, and the beautiful new cordyline varieties like 'Electric Pink' and 'Electric Star' are very 'in' too. Another glowing specimen to plant, is

home grown Leucadendron 'Red Devil'. All of these are great hardy plants! Bedding besties March is too early for the traditional winter annuals, but a perfect time to plant the hardy and adaptable verbenas, lobelias, alyssums, dianthus and petunias (albeit only in summer rainfall areas). They will enjoy the last heat of summer, as well as cooler weather when autumn really arrives. Hot tip: Visit GCA garden centres on Fridays or Saturdays for the best and widest choice of seedlings as they usually receive fresh stock just before the weekend. Rose care - promote abundant leaf growth Build healthy leaves by fertilising with a rose specific fertiliser this month. With lots of leaves, the process of photosynthesis remains in full swing, strengthening the plants' stems for fast spring sprouting, and

also to enable it to flower magnificently on new stems well into winter. The cute factor It is trendy to go for smart, large containers filled with pretty fruit trees like a calamondin orange, lemon tree, lime tree, or kumquat. Potted citrus trees can give you a harvest of fruit throughout winter. Finish off your potted fruit tree orchard with pretty companion plants like curled parsley, nasturtiums and dwarf marigolds. Green lawn in winter If you want a lawn that stays green for 365 days of the year, think out of the box – a box of lawn seed! Choose a cold-hardy lawn variety, which tolerates sun to light shade, or one which will cover bald spots in deep shade. These lawn seeds are not only handy to start a new lawn, but can also be used to overseed old, motley lawns that go dormant. The two grass types are compatible and blend seamlessly into each other. Germination is as speedy as between 5–10 days, and if all goes according to plan, you can achieve reasonable coverage within 8 weeks, provided there is no foot traffic over it. Seed your grass today! Trending: The social networking of plants The idea behind this trend for 2018 is communities of plants which 'network' together, so natural prairie gardens with swathes of ornamental grasses and floriferous perennials are hot news! If you are still planting 'one of a kind', leaving large areas of soil unplanted, you will be creating a lot of maintenance for yourself. Rather pick a limited palette of adaptable plants, and send them to ground in numbers! Recommended grasses: Fabulous fountain grasses include Pennisetum 'Fireworks', 'Rubrum' and 'Vertigo', pink muhly grass, Miscanthus sinensis 'Zebrinus' (Zebra grass), Carex 'Frosted Curls', Coman's 'Khaki', Festuca 'Silver Eye catch' and also the pretty indigenous restios like Elegia tectorum (Cape thatching reed). Perennials, especially those that flower well into autumn, are worth every cent. They supply lots of flowers for long periods without fuss and can be left to their own devices once planted.

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Do try some of these trouble-free perennials for all conditions and tastes: Long-flowering; acanthus, campanula, centranthus, diascia, gaura, Japanese a n e m o n e , k a n g a r o o p a w, n e p e t a , rudbeckia and echinacea. Drought resistant; armeria, artemisia, bergenia, felicia, eryngium, salvia and penstemon. Evergreen; ajuga, dierama, hellebore, heuchera, kniphofia, liriope and ophiopogon. Windy and coastal gardens; indigenous forget-me-not, geranium, stachys, limonium, lychnis, pelargonium, agapanthus, centaurea, crocosmia, dietes, and salvias. Note: Most of these will grow everywhere and in any region. If you have any concerns or need some advice, ask your local GCA garden centre. Bug watch ŸItalian cypress aphid - start treating

conifers against this pest with a systemic insecticide as a spray or soil drench. ŸAnts - spray with contact insecticide for up to 3 months' protection, or apply granular ant bait to eradicate the nest (the bait will be carried to the nest). ŸTermites - apply a systemic insecticide to control wood destroying termites or use a granular bait for harvester termites. ŸCool season herbs to plant: ŸChives and garlic chives – grow in sun or

partial shade. They also grow well in window boxes indoors, provided there is enough light. ŸCoriander – grows in light shade or indoors on a window sill. ŸCalendula – healing herb with pretty, edible flowers. Grow in full sun. ŸRocket – the peppery leaves are rich in iron, chlorophyll and various vitamins. Grow outside in a sunny spot and even try it indoors on a sunny window sill. Products to shop for now ŸBe an early bird and start buying spring-

flowering bulbs which are available in variety now, before they sell out. It's still too early to plant them as the soil temperature needs to cool down some 32

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more. ŸBuy a specialised micro-element mixture

to treat azaleas and gardenias that may be turning yellow and which need a pep up. ŸStock up on acidic fertiliser and acidic mulch (bark nuggets or chips) to feed azaleas, camellias, brunfelsias and gardenias before winter. Inland gardening Ÿ(Gauteng, Free State, North West,

Mpumalanga and Limpopo) Sow sweet peas, poppies, primula, foxgloves, hollyhocks and larkspur. Follow the instructions on the seed packet closely. ŸDig and prepare planting holes for new deciduous fruit trees – fresh stock will be available in nurseries soon.

ŸIf you notice that water is simply running

off the surface, leaving the soil beneath bone dry, you need to add a soil conditioner – enquire at your nearest GCA nursery. These products help change the structure of the soil to allow water to soak in. Sandy or compacted soil is particularly vulnerable. Follow up by improving the soil further with layers of organic matter laid on top. ŸFeed all shrubs and the lawn with a potassium-rich fertiliser to strengthen the cells and stems before winter comes. ŸIf your summer veggie patch has not produced well, and you can use enough water to irrigate regularly for a short while, dig up spent veggies and sow green manure crops in beds which will be left

empty in winter, like mustard, buckwheat, clover, linseed, lupines, lucerne and borage. When flowering (they are pretty!), dig them into the soil. They improve the soil structure (for better water retention) and increase the fertility of it for the next round of summer crops. ŸBefore the cold sets in and the job becomes uncomfortable, clean out your water features. Check that your pump is clean and in good condition. Coastal gardening (Western Cape, Northern Cape, Eastern Cape, and KwaZulu-Natal) ŸSow California poppies, cornflowers,

godetias, bokbaaivygies and Namaqualand daisies in situ. ŸCut back spent heliconia and cannas, and cover root areas with a mulch of compost, or well-rotted kraal manure. ŸBe kind to camellias and azaleas, with ample and deep watering in dry spells or they will drop their buds. ŸSow lettuces, Asian greens, radishes, Swiss chard, peas, all the cabbage types, carrots and beetroot. If you do not have a dedicated veggie patch, you can grow most of the above squeezed in anywhere, or in containers. ŸStart preparing a bed for strawberries by digging in well-rotted kraal manure, compost, a dusting of flowers of Sulphur (they like acidity) and general fertiliser. Strawberries can also be grown successfully in containers and hanging baskets – use a good quality potting soil. ŸWaste not want not, so harvest crops like basil and coriander, and process into pesto for the winter season. ŸPlant wild dagga (Leonotis leonurus) as it is a fast and easy-growing shrub that flowers profusely and attracts wildlife to the garden such as birds, bees and butterflies. The flowers are tubular and bright orange in colour; however there are white and salmon coloured ones available too.

For more information on bringing Life to your Garden, visit our website www.lifeisagarden.co.za or join the conversation on our Facebook page: lifeisagardensa

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Super Smoothies

by Life is a Garden Smoothies are a great way to use your home-grown fruit and veggies, and to get your daily requirement in one quick and tasty meal. Autumn is a great time to start planting those smoothie fruits, veggies and berries, for you to enjoy smoothies and keep you feeling fresh and healthy during winter. Here are three of our favourite smoothie recipes, but don't be dictated to! There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to delectable combinations, so use whatever you've got growing in your garden. Experimentation is the name of the game!

POWER PEANUT BUTTER AND BANANA SMOOTHIE Peanut butter is a powerhouse of energy and nutrients, and its natural flavour ally is the equally nutritious banana. Ingredients: 1 banana, chopped 1 tablespoons peanut butter 1 teaspoon raw honey ¼ cup plain yoghurt 1 teaspoon chia seeds ¼ cup raw rolled oats 1 dash of cinnamon Milk or almond milk, to make your smoothie as runny as you like it 34

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Instructions: · Combine all the ingredients in your blender. Start with only a little milk. · Adjust the consistency by adding milk, if necessary. Similarly, add more honey if your smoothie is not sweet enough for you.

REFRESHING RHUBARB SMOOTHIE Ingredients: 1 cup rhubarb stalks 1 whole medium pineapple 1 cup mixed berries (fresh or frozen) 1 litre water Instructions: · Clean the rhubarb stalks. (And throw the leaves on the compost heap!) · Peel and dice the pineapple. You can include the core or discard it, depending on the power of your blender. · Pop all the ingredients into your blender and blend until smooth. Alternatives: Another great combination that makes use of your rhubarb is rhubarb, watermelon, celery, cucumber, lime, pear, kiwi and frozen strawberries. This is just the ticket for hot summer days! For a tropical flavour combine rhubarb, strawberries, coconut water, mangoes and fresh ginger. Add a touch of raw honey to taste, if necessary. IMPORTANT: Don't be tempted to add the rhubarb leaves into your smoothie – they're toxic! It's the stalks that are good for you, containing all sorts of vitamins and minerals.

GOING GREEN Ingredients: The more adventurous, health conscious of you might want to try a 'green smoothie', which is based on leafy greens. Ingredients 2 cups chopped spinach (or kale, beetroot leaves, Asian greens, or whatever else you've got growing) 1 large granny smith apple (or any apple variety) 2 kiwi fruits 1 lemon 2 cups water A few stalks of celery Raw honey, to taste Instructions: · Peel the kiwi fruits, peel and seed the lemon, and remove the seeds from the apple (or cut the flesh away from the core) · Add all the ingredients to the blender and blend until smooth.

For more information on bringing Life to your Garden, visit our website www.lifeisagarden.co.za or join the conversation on our Facebook page: lifeisagardensa

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Let's start this year with something easy, totally different from our normal type of project, but nevertheless fun. Last year I spent a few days on a farm in the mountains around Oudtshoorn and understood for the first time what is meant by "blue mountains". The scenery was absolutely breathtaking. This project is more about rolling, pressing and pulling, than sculpting and I hope you enjoy the techniques. by Manda Theart 36

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Polymer Clay: "A type of hardenable modeling clay based on the polymer polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Polymer clay is generally used for making arts and craft items, and is also used in commercial applications to make decorative parts. Once shaped or modelled, the clay is baked in a domestic or commercial oven at 120 º C for ± 45 minutes. The clay becomes fairly rigid once it has cooled down."

REQUIREMENTS Ÿ Polymer clay: * Mix shades of blue, green and brown, starting with very light colours for the sky * Darker colours for the mountains, adding in some dark blue and black for darker shades * Orange mixed with a little brown * Black and white Ÿ Rolling pin, blade and different needles Ÿ Tile to work and bake on Ÿ Picture frame

INSTRUCTIONS It is a good idea to work on the tile you are baking on, as it will be difficult to transfer the clay once you are done. Draw the outline of the inside of your frame in pencil on your tile.

This is freehand, so play a little and remember, mistakes can be fixed. Just start again if it looks wrong to you.

"Build" your mountains by adding layers of the different mountain colours one on top of the other.

SKY: Roll your light blue (sky) coloured clay into a flat rectangular sheet and place inside the framed area. (You can trim the edges neatly later once you are done.) Polymer can be cut with a blade or scissors once baked too. MOUNTAINS: Starting with your palest blue, roll into a ball, flatten and stretch to form a triangle (mountain peak). Craftwise

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FIELDS: Flatten pieces of green, orange and brown clay and press onto the tile for pastures and fields.

FINISHING OFF: Bake at 120 degrees Celsius in a preheated oven for at least 40 minutes. Wait for your artwork to cool down completely before handling. If necessary, you can now trim the edges. Place your landscape artwork in the frame and be amazed! Until next time, lots of love

Texture the fields with your needle and blade.

TREES: Scratch some dark brown clay and form some trees. Add a little lighter green trees too.

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BIRDS AND SHEEP: Roll tiny black balls of clay, then gently roll them into a string by using your fingertips. You will note the ends will be more pointy. Use your needle to form little birds, then add to the sky.

Just for fun, add a few sheep by scratching tiny bits of white clay into one of the green pastures.

You can contact Manda Theart on 083 226 1521 for classes and products.

Birds of a Kind

by Johan de Lange from Glass and Fire

Necklace A beautiful, one of a kind necklace to make for someone special.

Skills level: Beginner to intermediate

REQUIREMENTS ŸFull rods of the following opaque colours:

angel pink grasshopper green dark ivory light blue copper green medium grey light violet REQUIREMENTS opal yellow ŸCrystal clear rods ŸStandard bead making equipment, including mandrels dipped in bead release, tweezers, sharp blade and a shaping tool ŸStandard safe studio requirements apply Materials all available from Glass & Fire Tel 012 329 9803 Craftwise

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INSTRUCTIONS and the head. Melt that flat. Tip: Before you start, prepare a stringer for the eyes by encasing about 12 mm of the tip of a black rod with a thin layer of opal yellow. Heat into a ball and pull into a stringer of about 2 mm.

6. Add more glass to the tail until you get to the desired length. (See previous photo.) 7. Heat the tail part and use the marver and sharp blade to shape the tail.

1. Start the bird by making a 12- 15 mm round bead with the dark ivory.

8. With any of the pastel opaque colours, paint wings on both sides. This should be done in a quick swooping action to prevent it being too thick. You'll probably need to make two swipes. Heat up and press flat with the shaping tool.

2. Add a blob of melted glass on one side of the bead for the head. The added glass should be on the upper half of the bead. 5. On the opposite side of the head add some dark ivory for the tail.

9. Heat up the crystal clear rod and cover the pastel colour in the same manner as the previous step.

3. To prevent the glass from sagging while still hot, turn the bead upside down until the glass has stiffened. Tip: When adding glass, always make sure that the part where you are going to add the molten glass, is also heated a bit. This prevents the added part popping off later.

4. Add some glass to the neck area if there seems to be a gap between the body 40

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10. Heat the wings, one at a time, until they are soft and use the blade to shape and texture the wings. It will help if you

rest the mandrel on the torch for support. 11. Heat the area for the eye until soft. Support the mandrel on the torch and push the prepared 2 mm stringer into the soft glass. Blow on the point of contact until cool. Break the stringer off. Do the same on the other side.

It's a year almost that I have not seen her: Oh, last summer green things were greener, Brambles fewer, the blue sky bluer. It's surely summer, for there's a swallow: Come one swallow, his mate will follow, The bird race quicken and wheel and thicken. Oh happy swallow whose mate will follow O'er height, o'er hollow! I'd be a swallow, To build this weather one nest together. Christina Rossetti 1830-1894

12. Make the beak of the bird by adding a dot of opal yellow and pulling it to a point while it is still hot.

13. Gently heat up the finished bird bead in the back of the flame until the heat is evenly distributed. Put in the kiln to anneal. These are fun birds and one can use them in various ways. To make them into a lariat as shown, choose matching beads and findings. Craftwise

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by Geert Schuiling for Woodheads

Make a stylish and useful leather case to protect your playing cards. 42

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REQUIREMENTS Ÿ Leather (refer to template for sizes) Ÿ Revolving punch Ÿ Steel ruler Ÿ Craft knife Ÿ Cutting mat Ÿ Pencil or marking pen Ÿ Felt tip brush

Ÿ Cloth Ÿ Leather dye Ÿ 313 Leather sealer Ÿ Needles Ÿ Thread Ÿ Leather strap Ÿ Matches or lighter

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Print the pattern out to scale and paste onto firm cardboard. Cut out along the solid lines and punch the holes to prepare for marking the leather. Place the cut out pattern onto the leather and use a marking pen or pencil to trace the perimeter lines and holes. Cut out the leather using your knife and metal ruler, then punch the holes out with the revolving punch plier.

2. Once the three pieces have been cut out, you can colour the leather with dye to a colour of your choice. Place a generous amount of dye on the applicator. Start in the top corner using circular movements to apply the dye to the leather. You can also use the felt tip brush to dye the edges. Once the dye is dry, seal the leather by applying a 313 leather dressing or a leather balsam.

3. In preparation for stitching the components together, start by stitching the button and closing strap onto the outside flap. You can cut a leather strap as shown in the pattern or alternatively use a lace or cord.

6. Stitch both box shaped pieces onto the outside flap and end off by knotting and burning the wax thread ends.

4. Fold the edges of the inside flaps inward and press down to create a box shape, then fold the edge along the stitch line in the opposite direction. This will allow for the pack of cards to slide in easily when completed.

5. Place the box shaped piece onto the outside flap leaving one hole open on the inner spine [marked with an X on the pattern]. This allows you to stitch a double loop stitch.

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TEMPLATES

leave hole open for double stitch

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LAZY SUSAN Mosaic By: Marina Giovitto Ehlers of Mosaic Arts CC www.mosaicarts.co.za Tel: +27 12 804 7392 Fax: +27 12 804 8498 Email: [email protected]

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REQUIREMENTS ŸA design of your choice Ÿ80gr paper and a pencil ŸWooden board. (We used a 21 mm thick

shutter plywood, 600 mm in diameter) ŸLazy Susan mechanism to enable

rotation of the board with screws ŸSelection of tiles of your choice ŸNippers and/or wheel cutters ŸWallpaper paste or papier maché glue

to stick your tiles onto the paper ŸGrey tile adhesive ŸWood glue ŸGrey grout ŸBowl ŸTrowel, notched trowel, spatula,

squeegee, sponge and newspaper

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Draw a rough sketch of the design that you wish to use and decide on your mosaic colour scheme. Using a compass draw a circle of 594 mm, 3 mm smaller than the size of your wooden base. Draw your design and plan the tile cuts on your paper circle.

3. Allow to dry completely before installing onto your wooden board. Allow yourself an hour or 2 to install the mosaic to the wooden surface. 4. In an old bowl, mix tile adhesive with wood glue and a dash of water to a smooth paste. Spread a thin layer of wood glue onto the surface of the wood with a spatula. 5. While the wood glue is still wet spread the adhesive uniformly across the surface with a trowel then comb it with the notched trowel. Work quickly now. Spread a thin layer of adhesive over the mosaic to take up any level differences between tiles of different heights and immediately lay the mosaic tile side down, paper side up, into the combed adhesive.

NB: Make sure you have enough tiles to complete the project. Remember that about 50% is wasted when cutting so provide 1½ times the tiles to cover the surface area of your Lazy Susan. 2. Start cutting the tiles and use wallpaper glue to stick them right side down onto the paper until you have completed the whole design. Remember to first do the design and border. The mosaic background must be cut last.

the centre of the board carefully and attach the Lazy Susan mechanism to the bottom of the board. Finish off the edge either by painting it or by mixing grout with wood glue and smoothing it onto the edge of the board as we did on our project.

Step 5

6. Press the mosaic down with a rubber trowel and rub to smoothen the surface. Dampen the paper for 5 to 10 minutes with a damp sponge and carefully remove the paper while the adhesive is still wet. Adjust tiles so that the joint spacing between the pieces is even. Allow to dry completely before grouting - usually 24 hours. 7. Mix grout with water to a smooth paste. Using a grouting squeegee press the grout into the spaces between the tiles and squeegee off any excess grout off the top of the tiles.

Step 6

8. Sprinkle some dry grouting powder onto the squeegeed surface. Then instead of wiping the surface with a sponge use a scrunched up newspaper to polish the surface of the tiles clean. Allow to dry overnight. 9.

Turn the board upside down. Mark

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by _______________

Recycled Glass Glow Lights by Sue Human

As a crafter, I obviously love projects and learning new crafting skills. But, sometimes, I really need a quick and easy project – and even better, one that doesn’t look like it was quick and easy. And if I can use some of my recycled bottles, even better. Add in fairy lights and making a sparkly scene to enjoy an evening picnic, and I am a Happy Crafter! Enjoy making your own glow lights!

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REQUIREMENTS AND INSTRUCTIONS Ÿ Cleaned and dried recycled clear glass

sauce jars Ÿ Glass stain Ÿ Glass liner pens Ÿ Wire fairy lights powered by a single small flat battery (you can find these at most DIY stores) Ÿ Pliable silver wire for the handles Ÿ Self adhesive clear rhinestone design Ÿ Drill or Dremel tool 1. Using the glass stain, coat the bottles on the inside by pouring the stain into the bottle, making sure all the surface area is stained. Glass jars with a very thin neck are slightly more difficult to stain and may require a few coats.

3. Once the liner has completely dried, use a drill or Dremel Tool to drill a hole big enough to sink in the top part of the fairy lights battery. Slip the lights through the hole and glue the battery pack onto the lid (the battery pack screws open from the top part, so you can still change the battery). Now you can feed the lights into the bottle.

4. We had different sized jars with different lids, so we needed to make 2 different plans in making the wire handles. The one lid allowed for a hole to be drilled into either side of it with the handle being attached by looping the ends of the wire on the inside of the lid.

5. The other two had smaller plastic lids, so for these we had to attach the wire underneath the lid, around the glass neck.

I am sure once you have made one or two of these lights you will be tempted to make a lot more of them!

2. When dry, use the glass liner pens to draw some detail onto the bottles. We drew on two of the bottles and decided to shorten our project even more and “cheated” by putting on a self adhesive clear rhinestone design.

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DIY kids

by Life is a Garden

Reuse and recycle your old t-shirts! Everyone has old tshirts lying around that are too far gone to be donated and it seems such a shame to simply throw them out. With this fun hanging planter DIY project, you'll never need to throw out old t-shirts again. Re-purposing your old tshirts into a simple, yet trendy plant hanger is a great way to display indoor plants and add a splash of colour to a room. This is an awesome DIY project for teens to do themselves, to create funky decor for their rooms, or even to give as gifts.

REQUIREMENTS ŸSome old t-shirts (that you don't mind cutting up) ŸA pair of scissors ŸA ruler ŸA pen ŸSmall-ish ceramic or metal pots ŸA variety of small plants to plant in the pots

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INSTRUCTIONS Let's get creative: 1. The first step is to take your t-shirt and fold it in half, lengthways.

of your plant hanger.

sufficient material left at the bottom to tie into one big knot - this is the knot you will hang your planter from. 9. Now that your plant hanger is complete, the final step is to place your plant into a pot and position it into your planter. Your planter is now ready to hang anywhere you wish.

2. Next, use your ruler and pen to make a marking just below the sleeves and cut that section off - you won't be needing it.

3. Keeping your t-shirt folded, measure eight equal strips along the side. Once they have all been measured, cut these strips.

6. Lay your strips flat on the table and split them into four pairs. Make a knot in each pair near the top where the first knot is. Take care with the positioning of each knot to ensure they are all on the same level when hanging.

For more information on bringing Life to your Garden, visit our website www.lifeisagarden.co.za or join the conversation on our Facebook page: lifeisagardensa

7. Again, lay the material flat on the table and spread out the knotted pairs. Take one strip from one pair and another strip from another pair and knot them together, a bit lower down from the second knot. Do this until all the pairs have been knotted, bringing the last pair to the front.

4. After you have cut all the strips, unfold the t-shirt and cut one hemmed side of each strip. This will make eight long strips of fabric.

8. Repeat step seven until you have

5. Gather all your strips and knot them together at one end to create the bottom Craftwise

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“Keep Calm & Keep Colouring in!"

by Câ Momberg Glacermo cc

I am sure that everybody is by now familiar with repeating patterns and adult colouring books which allow anybody at any time to be creative. In this project I will demonstrate colouring-in of a different kind - how to turn a pre-drawn bisque ceramic item into a 3D colouring page. Again - another wonderful colouring-in stress reliever!

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REQUIREMENTS Ÿ 1 x 3D pre-drawn bisque ceramic coloring form (available

from Glacermo) Ÿ Ordinary colouring pencils Ÿ Black and white marker pens

Ÿ Ear buds Ÿ Pencil sharpener Ÿ "Hard as Nails" varnish

INSTRUCTIONS SANITY TIPS AND TRICKS:

SUITABLE COLOURING TECHNIQUES:

COLOURING:

1. Gather all your materials before you start.

Stippling: place tiny dots all over on your form. They can be small or large and can be close or far apart.

1. When you are ready, grab your colour pencils and add colour to fill the patterns, lines, curls, background - any space available on your design. There is no wrong way to colour, no rules at all. Set yourself free, be creative, relax and enjoy.

2. The pre-drawn 3D bisque ceramic form makes it easy for you as you only have to choose a form and suitable colours. No having to worry about a design. 3. Always keep your pencils sharp! Sharp pencils require less pressure on the tip, so fewer broken tips. 4. Use a hand pencil sharpener because then you have control over the sharpener. Do not apply to much pressure on the end of the pencil. 5. Always clean out the shavings from the sharpener. 6. If your pencil sharpener produces a long continuous pencil shaving, the sharpener is in a good condition. If not, the blade is blunt - time for a new one! 7. If you get bored with same old coloured pencils it is time for a new set.

Hatching: draw a series of parallel lines all in the same direction, lifting your pencil after each line. Cross-hatching: as above, then draw another series of parallel lines in the opposite direction on top of the first set. Back & forth stroke: draw in a continuous back and forth motion without lifting your pencil. Repeat this technique a few times over and over to create a solid colour. Scumbling: make continuous circular marks without lifting the pencil. With this technique you can cover a large area very quickly.

2. For the items shown in this project, I mainly used the back & forth stroke. 3. For blending, I made use of an earbud to smear the colour to become more solid. 4. Use a white marker pen to add accent and a black marker pen to reline the design if needed. 5. Seal the entire item with two layers of "hard as nails" varnish. 6. Add more pre-drawn ceramic bisque forms to your collection and you ready to do an Easter setting that everybody will adore.

Bisque forms are available from Glacermo cc. Tel 072 222 9500 or email [email protected] www.glacermo.co.za

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HEARTLAND.. THE HEARTBEAT OF MY HOME This project started off as a Brushstrokes article but morphed into a chalkboard with many different painting techniques. You will notice that I have used very little white paint and this is solely because you need dark areas to write on otherwise you will not see the white chalk writing.

REQUIREMENTS Ÿ Hardboard canvas Ÿ Deco Art speciality products used:

Multi-purpose sealer Clear chalkboard coating Ÿ Assortment of Deco Art Americana Stencils (Your choice) Ÿ Shaders Ÿ Fineliners Ÿ Flat brushes for underpainting Ÿ Americana acrylic paint used: Antique white Mississippi mud Cool neutral Plum Frosted plum Alizarin crimson Teal green Hauser dark green Leaf green Prussian blue Victorian blue Dioxazine purple Midnite blue Ÿ Stick of white chalk

by Ronel Fleming Swart email: [email protected] 54

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INSTRUCTIONS 1. Seal the raw wood with 2 coats of multi-purpose sealer, adding a bit of white to the second coat to tint it slightly. You could also paint the chalkboard white after sealing if you wish. I prefer to work on a clean, white background - it gives me a clearer colour.

condition. Wipe chalk off and write your messages!

2. Start sketching in your patchwork design. I have used a wooden heart cut-out for the heart design as pattern. Decide on a pattern or use mine as a guide. Also refer to patchwork design books for ideas. Use your imagination! Owls instead of hearts also work well as a design. 3. Start by blocking in colours according to your taste. You will notice I have used my favourite colours again - pinks, blues, turquoise greens, purple and then a bit of cream for contrast. 4. Once you are satisfied with your design and colours, start underpainting the dark background areas. You should work from dark to light but in the same colour tone. You might need 2 coats. 5. Decide what patterns you want on the patchwork areas. I painted in checks using the masking tape technique as well as some stencilling. The designs are painted in lighter colours. This gives texture to your patches. 6. Shade around each patch with your brush's heel tipped in water and the toe in Prussian blue (a beautiful colour for shading). 7. Now the Hearts! Complete your designs by weaving lace designs on the inside of the hearts. The secret here is to hold your brush very straight up and to thin your paint down with water to resemble ink. I used a very small shader, double loaded, to paint roses inside the hearts. Leave to dry. 8. Paint with Clear Chalkboard Coating. This product transforms all kinds of surfaces into chalkboards! When doing this you need to paint 1 coat horizontal. Then once dried, 1 coat vertical. 9. Leave to cure for 24 hours. Then lightly rub white chalk over the surface to Craftwise

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Imagine a space where money has no worth and the currency is your Talent. Where children roam free range, safely. All the adults are care givers and the forest gang of dogs is adored by all as they run wild. There are free hugs, no inhibitions, peaceful living, meaningful connections, mindful consciousness, non-judgmental openness and LEARNING – an off grid creative energy space so tangible one can touch it. The day begins with yoga and meditation and as the sun sets the Clan emerge from the forest dust to The Circle of Dreams for a communal, harmonious thunder of a drum circle connecting dance and rhythm.

If you build it, they will come!

by Sue Human

I

n the evening, around fire pits people gather to share food, stories, ideas, experiences and LEARNING of the day. Music is everywhere and for everyone, to play or enjoy. The Sacred River refreshes and entertains while the forest trees bring 100 years of wisdom and shade – life giving yet playful, their branches enabling us to fly. The festival is The Learning Clan and it all takes place near Riviersonderend for a week 56

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over New Year. The Learning Clan Website, www.learningclan.net explains how this amazing community was born – "The idea to gather in this way was sparked at the SA version of Burning Man. We loved the idea of radical self reliance and the co-creation of a town in the desert without the use of money. One night, in the face of a wall of flames, we realised that in these turbulent times, we'd like to be learning stuff more than burning stuff… like how to be more resilient against a global agenda that is

increasingly repressing our freedom to thrive, how to grow food, how to reduce our impact, how to have an economy we can trust, how to work with all the natural materials and medicines freely given by Nature." The Talent currency centers around the CES, Community Exchange System w w w. c e s . o r g . z a " T h e C o m m u n i t y Exchange System (CES) is a communitybased exchange system that provides the

means for communities to trade and exchange their goods and services, both locally and remotely. " To purchase a ticket to Learning Clan, one must register on the CES. At the Festival, no money changes hands. 1Rand = 1Talent. The idea is that everyone brings something to offer to earn Talents and uses those to share in others offerings. Children are encouraged to register too. And everyone is encouraged to use the system throughout the year. Each person that registers enters their specific talents and one can trade goods and services anytime – and it is global. At the festival, one simply must find a way of earning Talents, because there are so many reasons to spend them. Not only to attend enlightening workshops, purchase goods from the daily market and indulge in the many meals on offer (including delicious daily pancakes), but also to be able to give Talents to the many musicians and fire dancers that energize the forest. And to pay for using the communal charging station and recycling initiative. Yes, the entire 8 night festival is run off grid, powered by the sun. And the forest is left just as we found it, thanks to the recycling initiative. No dustbins. All waste, including compost accounted for. And with 600+ Clanners, that is no small task. My biggest surprise was how quickly and fervently the children immersed themselves in the system. I thought that because there was no tangible money, they would not take it seriously. But the opposite was true. My daughter and her friend (both 8) decided to collect rocks, paint and decorate them and open a "Love Rocks" stand at the market to earn Talents. They, of course, NEEDED to purchase pancakes. They learnt firsthand how much hard work it takes to earn Talents, but were surprisingly giving when it came to spending Talents at workshops where they had fun and LEARNT something. The daily workshops are well organized on boards where one can write up their offerings. But, some exchanges of LEARNING happened sporadically. One afternoon we were sitting in the Children's Zone and down sat Neil. He had a wood carved mask which

immediately interested the group of children on our mat. He took out his tools and began teaching. It was not long before we needed a bigger mat. The King of The

Forest (Neil) sat for hours entertaining the children and asked nothing for his exchange. He left his tools with us and the children went on late into the night, and Craftwise

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continued as their eyes opened the next morning – now avid wood carvers. Thank you Neil. And so a lot of the LEARNING just developed organically. The children took on roles a parent would normally have to blackmail them into at home. Communal living seems to suit them quite well. Camp set up, collecting kindling, making a fire to cook food, recycling and even dishwashing was shared. And all of that was richly rewarded with freedom – a wild river to explore, daily fun activities (tug of war, slack line obstacle course, music through sound, hula-hooping, woodcarving, storytelling, nature crafts, drumming, turning pipes and straws into musical instruments, water balloon slingshots, scavenge hunt, talent show, pancake making challenge...), sleeping under the stars... Over the week, nobody really worried about lock, stock and barreling their cars and campsites and if you happened to forget something somewhere, when you went back for it, there it was right where you left it. There was a Lost Property, but as far as I could tell – nobody had anything "disappear". Hard to believe, isn't it? And the mood? Well, over the week I never heard a child saying "I'm bored". I never saw a child playing on a tablet or phone. I did not hear any words spoken in anger by anyone, or see a child being disciplined or reprimanded in an "inappropriate" manner. Everything just seemed to work. The Clan children ran free range making friends, playing with dogs, swimming, swinging from the tree swings…. The phrase "there is always one…." comes to mind, but honestly if there was one that challenged or defied the system, I never saw or heard about it. And all the conversational exchanges were so positive too, not so specific that one noticed it while being there, but when we returned, we did find it difficult to engage in normalcy – i.e., conversations about issues parents are having with their children, gripes about work colleagues, neighborhood niggles and general mood dampening glass-half-empty issues. This place is a small miracle that brings together a massive force of considered thinking, creative exchanges, organic 58

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living, shared music and mindfulness. Caring for our planet and all its people with kindness and respect. Such a miracle that I found it extremely difficult to capture it in words and even more so with photo's. Somehow, it feels like a sacred spot. I fully believe that every person and life form on earth is equally important and necessary – yet I can't escape feeling that our Earth took a deep breath of a sigh of relief over this festival. Leaving it and the people in attendance with a new life giving and preserving energy. Eckhart Tolle: "…whenever there is inspiration… and enthusiasm…there is a creative empowerment that goes far beyond what a mere person is capable of.” Wouldn't it be lovely if Learning Clan was the reality, and we went to a mall for a week holiday …… to poison our bodies with junk food, poison our minds at the arcade centre, poison the earth with litter, throw money at already ridiculously wealthy clothing labels and global franchises, have your personal property stolen, stand in irritable queues and listen to people whine about life. At the end of the festival we were challenged to take home what we had learnt and apply it to our every day. Our Clan camp are already planning CES markets back home (something that is already happening frequently in Cape Town) and thinking of ways to contribute more at the next gathering. When I was first introduced to the concept, my friend told me that it changed her thinking. I asked her what she meant and she said that it proved that there is a better way. The Learning Clan force is very strong, and I am completely sold.

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61

Flying Your Kite High by Jacqui Holmes Classy Glass Art Studio

This project was inspired by a gift a friend gave to me many years ago. I wanted to make a fairly large glass kite with some colourful pieces of glass for the tail. I decided to make use of clear glass bevels for this.

Jacqui Holmes of Classy Glass Art Studio-Port Elizabeth. Tel 041 369 0004 Cell: 082 782 2381, [email protected] www.classyglass.co.za Follow us on Facebook: “Classy Glass Art Studio” And on INSTAGRAM: @classyglassartstudio PHOTOGRAPHY BY: Cindy Barnes of Cindy Barnes Photography – Port Elizabeth. CONTACT DETAILS: 084 512 7224. [email protected]

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REQUIREMENTS TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: Ÿ Glass cutter Ÿ Grozier pliers Ÿ Glass grinder Ÿ Cutting board Ÿ Prestik Ÿ Soft cloth Ÿ Safety glasses (if you do not wear specs) Ÿ Sharpie pen to draw the pattern onto your glass Ÿ Paintbrushes or flux brushes to paint flux onto your project Ÿ 100W soldering iron – either with an internal thermostat or with a soldering iron controller. (Soldering irons reach ± 370 deg C, and uncontrolled, your glass may crack from the heat.) Ÿ Lathekin (to flatten and remove creases from the copper foil once it is applied) Ÿ Newspapers for easier cleaning up as you go along Ÿ A solution of dish washing liquid and bicarbonate of soda diluted in

water to clean your project Ÿ Latex gloves for applying patina if

you have sensitive skin Ÿ Furniture polish to polish your

project once it is completed

large diamond and 1 for the bottom) Ÿ Small jump rings to solder to each point of the smaller diamond Ÿ Nylon or strong braided fishing line

MATERIALS: Ÿ 1 large clear glass bevel 15 cm x 22

cm Ÿ A variety of coloured glass cut into diamonds 5 cm x 10 cm – I used Spectrum Rough Rolled in sky blue, cobalt blue, emerald green and light amber Ÿ Glass gems (available at your local mosaic shop) – 4 large for points of big diamond. Smaller ones for around the large diamond. I laid them out around the diamond to work out how many I would need Ÿ Copper foil – I used black back ¼ inch copper foil Ÿ Flux Ÿ Solder (60/40) Ÿ Black patina Ÿ 2 large rings (2 for the top of the

INSTRUCTIONS 1. If you are using a bought bevel for the main part of the kite, grind around it very gently. Decide how many smaller diamonds you would like to hang from this. I did 4. Create a diamond shaped template that measures 5 cm x 10 cm. These measurements are from point to point. 2. Place your template face down on the wrong side of the glass and using the Sharpie or other marker, trace the shape onto the glass. Score the glass with the cutter. Use the running pliers and/or grozier pliers to break where you have scored.

3. Grind the pieces gently to make the edges rough so that the copper foil will stick properly to it. 4. Once you have finished grinding, you can foil each of the pieces with ¼ inch foil. It is important that the pieces are all clean Craftwise

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and thoroughly dry. So clean and dry them off with a soft cloth before you begin to foil. It's much easier to work upside down. You need to get the glass in the centre of the foil. Hold the sticky side facing up and place the glass onto it. Press flat with your thumb then fold down over the sides of the glass. Work in small sections to ensure the foil fits tightly once you are done. Try not to go all the way around your glass piece and then only flatten the foil, as it will be too loose. Iron out the creases and crinkles in the foil with the lathekin.

5. Tin around the edges of all the diamonds. All the foil must be silver after this. Tinning: Paint flux on all the copper foil and melt solder along the foil. When you are done the edges and sides of all the copper foil will be silver (covered in solder).

Make sure you have soldered them onto the front of your project as well as the back. Solder 2 large rings at the top of the diamond and one at the bottom.

Then place them in a plastic container with a lid. Shake the container for a short while and when you remove them the foil will be neat with all the creases ironed out.

7. Tin around all of the gems. Much easier than trying to do this once they are soldered to the diamond.

9. Solder a small jump ring to the top and bottom of each of the smaller diamonds.

6. Grind gently around each of the glass gems then foil them.

8. Lay all the gems around the outside of the large diamond, placing the larger ones at each point (top, bottom and sides).

10. Rinse off all the diamonds with the soap and bicarb solution and dry thoroughly.

The easiest way to foil gems is to place foil around the edges as tightly as possible. 64

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Position the others between these the larger gems, then solder them in place.

11. Put on the latex gloves and using a brush, apply black patina over all the solder. Rinse these again to remove excess patina from the glass.

12. Cut lengths of fishing line and tie the smaller diamonds to the larger ones whichever way you would like them to hang.

13. Polish your project with a spray on furniture polish and soft cloth. 14. Find a place to hang your project. Somewhere where it gets a lot of light will be perfect. The bevels create amazing reflections when the light shines through them. Enjoy your creation!

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Art Deco Print On Silk Scarf In recent articles I have shown you how to carve your own lino designs. bybyMelanie Brummer Now I am going to show you how best to print them. Melanie Brummer REQUIREMENTS Ÿ Silk scarf (contact Melanie to find out

where to get them) Ÿ Aquatex fabric paint in your choice of

colour Ÿ Pallet knife Ÿ Sponge roller Ÿ Rubber roller Ÿ Plastic bucket lid Ÿ Newspaper Ÿ Spray bottle Ÿ Lino stamp Ÿ Towel Ÿ Blanket

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This is the method I used... I used a very light coating of acrylic fabric paint on a sponge roller. I have a bottle of paint that I scrape my waste off into that became this metalic brown color that I thought would work well in the shiny habotai silk.

First I cover the sponge roller in a very thin coating of fabric paint, and then I cover the surface of the lino stamp in an even layer. Use the bucket lid to run the roller back and forth to evenly coat the sponge.

If your coating of paint is even and smooth, your imprint will be too. I place the stamp where I want it and apply pressure to the back of it to transfer the paint from the stamp onto the cloth. Because I print on an old blanket, it creates a padded surface that helps to get the print to transfer evenly. If you try to print on a rigid surface you will experience challenges.

The acrylic paint air dries quite quickly and then I heat set the paint using an iron. I ironed the silk scarf so that all of the new prints were exposed to 140 degrees for six minutes. This make the prints wash fast so that the colour remains bright and strong, wash after wash. I am very happy with the way it turned out. If you would like to know more of my secrets for creating interlinking stamps for printing on cloth, send me an email with the words… “I want to learn the secrets of tiled prints” in the tagline and I will send you a complimentary eBook that shares detailed step-by-step tutorials with pictures.

I work slowly and patiently to line the stamps up edge-to-edge. Always take your time with this!

I repeated the process until I covered the whole surface of the silk scarf in prints. I love the gentle shimmer of the metallic paint.

Email Melanie: [email protected]

Copyright exists in this material

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# 67

Country Landscape by Petro Strijdom for Trunell Crafts

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REQUIREMENTS Ÿ Wooden blank size: 380 x 700 mm Ÿ Cold glue Ÿ Grout: dove grey Ÿ Rubber kidney or old credit card for

grouting Ÿ Flexible tile adhesive Ÿ Selection of green and blue ceramic tiles

for fields and sky and brownish tile for road Ÿ Variety of ceramic houses, flowers, trees,

"Country roads, take me home To the place I belong West Virginia Mountain mamma, take me home Country roads." John Denver (Henry John Deutschendorf Jr)

bushes and other inserts of your choice to create a country landscape Ÿ Tile nipper Kit available from Trunell

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Use a pencil to draw in lines for the hills and road. Start by placing the flowers in the front, mixing large and small. Cut the stem inserts into little pieces with the nipper and glue as stems for the flowers. Add a variety of leaves to the stems.

5. Mix the grout as per manufacturer's instructions until you get the consistency of mayonnaise. 3. Start the background by breaking the brownish tile into little pieces with the nipper and mosaic the road. 2. Arrange the houses, caravan, trees, birds and bushes then glue them down. Place the small houses, trees and bushes on top of the hill to create the illusion of distance.

4. Continue to mosaic the rest of the fields using different coloured green tiles. Start with the darker tiles in the front and lighter to the back of the fields. Do the sky with the blue tiles. Leave to dry.

TIP: Ceramic tiles are porous, so the grout needs to be quite runny. If it is too thick it will be difficult to fill the gaps in between the tiles. 6. Work the grout over the tiles with a rubber kidney or your hand, making sure the grout fills all the spaces. Remove the excess grout from the surface of the mosaic before completing the grouting. 7. Use a toothpick or old toothbrush to clean the grout around the inserts. Use a paper towel to clean the rest of the grout off the tiles, then polish with a soft cloth. 8. For more interest, glue some small inserts like a bicycle and small flowers onto the project with the flexible tile adhesive. Craftwise

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Enlarge to 38 x 70 cm

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Wish you could carry your whole library with you?

You can!

www.zinio.com/craftwise OR www.magzter.com/p/Craftwise

CLASSES / COURSES ART CLAY SILVER We recommend an introductory hands-on workshop to get inspired! Contact Dragon Glass, 011 849 6430 or 082 457 2951 (business hours) or e-mail [email protected] for details of an instructor near you. [ref: sml8] Ladybird Crafts - Mosaic, Decoupage, Paint Effects & Gilding. Group Workshops & Weekly Classes in Pta East. Mosaic with tiles, china, ostrich shell & smalti. Decoupage furniture, gild & distress. Under glass decoupage. Contact Carol Tait cell 0824565923/ [email protected] www.ladybirdcrafts.co.za. [ref: sml87] CRAFT / ART SUPPLIES HANDSPUN WOOL: Specialising in Angora Rabbit Wool (bunny wool), and merino Sheep wool, available in natural and dyed. Alpaca and mohair occasionally available. All wool is balanced

2ply, unless specified. Mail order or visits by arrangement. Contact Yolande on cell 0732786125 or visit my website, www.angorarabbits.co.za. [ref: sml103] GLASSWORK DRAGON GLASS - suppliers of all you need for the craft of Warm Glass. Our range of instructional videos is recognised world wide, NOW AVAILABLE ON DVD! Agents for the full Thompson Enamel range, “Vidriarte” glass sheet and accessory products, and CBS dichroic coated sheet glass, all Float compatible. We supply kilns, and all other tools and consumables for the craft including our superior kiln wash/mould release! Contact Stan or Heather (011) 849 6430 or e-mail: [email protected] [ref: sml22] MISCELLANEOUS

and crafts shop. All under one roof. We do decoupage blanks, paper, serviettes, beads, scrapbooking, pewter, mosaic, lazer items, polystyrene, mirrors, feathers, etc etc. We also do classes and mail orders. Contact us on Tel:021 911 0962, Fax: 086 5172699 Cell: 082 4524524, email: [email protected] ONLINE SHOP:www.itzvanallez.co.za [ref: sml62] VIDEOS DECOUPAGE UNDER GLASS AVAILABLE ON DVD This video titled “Decoupage Under Glass and Advanced Background Techniques”, is now available from Dragon Glass. Join us in a visual workshop. Step-by-step instructions on how to create masterpieces under glass. Includes instructions on glue-chipped glass, and lots more! Contact Stan or Heather on (011) 8496430 or email: [email protected] [ref: sml31]

Itz van Allez, your one stop arts

Place YOUR classified smalls ad by either submitting it online at www.craftwise.co.za or by emailing it to [email protected] • 300 characters maximum (spaces included). • R120 for ONE insert or R600 for SIX inserts. • Proof of EFT payment to accompany your booking. • Please make payment to: Tucats Media cc, FNB branch 210314, Cheque acc 545 000 38764. • No ads will be placed until payment has been received. No ads will be accepted or changed after the closing date. • N0 hand written ads will be accepted. • Ad deadline for the next issue is 31 March 2018.

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Windhoek

061 269 152

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GAUTENG

011 792 5616

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WESTERN CAPE

KZN The Craft Shed NAMIBIA Jenny's Place

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