Murphy Moose: Design By Alison North Kornflakestew

Murphy Moose

Design by Alison North Amigurumi Pattern Written in English using American crochet terms

KornflakeStew

1|Page Please note this pattern is for PERSONAL use only. You may make as many items as you wish for yourself or as gifts. You may sell any items you produce from this pattern but please link back or give credit to me as the designer. Please do NOT share, reproduce or sell this pattern in part or as a whole. Please do not use any pictures. Please respect my rights as a designer. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me by email [email protected] Or send me a message at my Etsy shop, Thank you :) Murphy Moose will be approx. 18 inches tall from head to toe when using the recommended yarn and hook. Feel free to experiment with different yarns and hook sizes but please be aware this will change His size.

Skill Level *** ***PLEASE READ THROUGH THE ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE YOU BEGIN*** Stitches and techniques used. Slip stitch Insert hook in next st, yo and draw through all loops. Single crochet Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo, draw through both loops on hook. Half Double crochet Yarn over, insert your hook under the next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch ( 3 loops on your hook) yarn over again and pull through all 3 loops. Single crochet Invisible decrease [ sc- dec] Please note that when making the invisible decrease you will be working in the front loops only of your two stitches. Insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch. Do not yarn over and pull up yarn as you would in a traditional decrease. Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch. You will need to turn the tip of your crochet hook downward to do this. Then swing your crochet hook up, and under the front loop of the 2nd stitch. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops on your crochet hook, leaving 2 loops on your hook. Then yarn over again and pull yarn through the last 2 loops on your crochet hook. Magic adjustable ring (magic circle) First make a loop with your yarn leaving 3" long tail. Insert hook in centre of loop made, yo and draw up loop. YO, pull through to make your first chain. (Do not count this as your first sc) Continue to crochet over the loop and the yarn tail until you have the required number of sc for your first round. For example, if the pattern calls for 6 scs, then sc 6 times into the ring. (Insert hook into the center of the ring and draw up loop, YO and draw through both loops.) When you're finished, pull the tail to close the ring.

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YOU WILL NEED

ABBREVIATIONS

3mm crochet hook

Sc – single crochet

5mm crochet hook

hdc- half double crochet

2 balls of Scheepjes soft fun in cream: 2622 (main colour)

Inc – increase Sc-inc – single crochet increase

1 ball Drops alpaca silk in blue for the dungarees. ( you can use any D.K weight yarn)

Sc-dec – single crochet invisible decrease St – stitch

Tiny amount of light pink yarn (cheeks)

Ch – chain

9mm safety eyes

Rep – repeat

Toy stuffing

Sl st – slip stitch

Stitch marker (scrap of yarn)

Yo – yarn over

Always move your stitch marker up at the end of each row as you will be working in continuous rounds. Stitch count is in ( ) at the end of each row. Use your 3mm crochet hook throughout, you will only need the 5mm hook to make the dungarees. HEAD (using main colour) You will be starting at the mouth, working around the foundation chain. Round 1. Ch 15, sc-inc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each of the next 12 ch, sc x 4 in the last ch, turning to work up the other side of the ch. Sc in the next 12 ch, scinc in the last ch. Place marker (32) Round 2. Sc-inc in the first st, sc x 14, sc-inc x 2, sc x 14, sc-inc in the last st (36) Round 3. [ sc x 5, inc ] rep (42) Rounds 4-9. Sc in each st around (42) Round 10. [ sc x 12, sc-dec ] rep (39) Rounds 11-12. Sc in each st around (39) Round 13. [ sc x 11, sc-dec ] rep (36) Rounds 14-15. Sc in each st around

(36)

Round 16. [ sc x 10, sc-dec ] rep (33) Rounds 17-18. Sc in each st around (33) Round 19. [ sc x 9, sc-dec ] rep (30)

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3|Page Rounds 20-21. Sc in each st around (30) Round 22. [ sc x 8, sc-dec ] rep (27) Rounds 23-24. Sc in each st around (27) Place safety eyes now between rows 10-11, approx. 11 stitches apart. Making sure that when the head is flattened the eyes will be in the right place (see picture below) Begin to stuff, keep adding stuffing as you continue to decrease to close the head. Round 25. [ sc x 7, sc-dec ] rep (24) Round 26. [ sc x 2, sc-dec ] rep (18) Round 27. [ sc x 1,sc-dec ] rep (12) Round 28. [ sc-dec ] rep (6) Sl st into the next st to finish off, leave an extra long tail. Weave through the front loops of the last 6 st and pull tight to close the hole. Keeping the tail threaded on your needle take it through the head to a stitch close to the outer edge of an eye. Put it back in just above the eye to make the eye lids. Put 3 stitches across the top of each eye and then take the tail back through the head to the back and make a double knot to secure. Hide the tail inside the head and cut the remainder of the yarn. EARS X2 Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker. (6) Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep (12) Rounds 3-9. Sc in each st around (12) Sl st into the next st to finish off, leave a long tail. Pinch the bottom of the ear together and sew through to the other side to keep them pinched together. (see picture below) Sew the ears in place.

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4|Page ANTLERS X2 Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker (6) Round 2. [ sc x 1, sc-inc ] rep (9) Rounds 3-6. Sc in each st around (9) Remove marker Round 7. Ch 8, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each of the next 6 ch and putting a sc into the same st the ch started. Sc around the next 9 st and back along the foundation ch, place marker (24)

Round 8. Sc-inc in the first st, sc around x 22, sc-inc in the last st (26) Round 9. Sc in each st around (26) Round 10. Sc in each of next 5 st, join to the 4th st back from your marker with a sc, sc in each of the next 4 st. Remove marker

Round 11. Sc around the next 9 st, leave an extra long tail. Flatten the end and sew together. (see next picture) Stuff the antler then sew along the flat under part to close. Use your needle to take the tail back through the antler and keep it attached as this is what you will use to sew the antler to the head. (see the 3rd picture below)

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2ND ANTLER BUMP Round 1. 8sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop (8) Rounds 2-5. Sc in each st around (8) Flatten and sc through both sets of stitches to close putting 2 sc into the last set. Leave a long tail and sew the ‘bump’ to the top of the main antler. Sew the antlers to the top of the head at an angle.

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6|Page ROSY CHEEKS X2 (using light pink yarn and darker pink for sewing) 10 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and leave a long tail. Place the cheek where you’d like it to be then using your tapestry needle, take the tail of yarn through the head and leave it hanging out of the back. This should keep the cheek in place while you sew around it with a darker pink to secure it to the face. Take the darker pink thread in from the back of the head and bring it out just next to the cheek, leave a tail hanging out at the back of the head, sew obvious decorative stitches around the cheek then take the tail back through to the same position that the tail is coming from, make a double knot to secure. When both cheeks are sewn in place knot the ends together at the back of the head and hide the tails inside the head to finish off.

LEGS X2 You will need to make 2 legs but don’t fasten off on the second leg as you will be joining them and continuing on to make the body. Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker (6) Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep (12) Round 3. [ sc x 1, sc-inc ] rep (18) Rounds 4-30. Sc in each st around (18) Finish off on the first leg and leave a long tail.

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7|Page Round 31. At the end of the 2nd leg ch 6, sc into the last st of 1st leg to join. Sc around the 1st leg and into each of the ch 6, continue on and sc into each st of the 2nd leg and up the other side of the ch 6, place marker (48)

Round 32-42. Sc in each st around (48) Begin to stuff now, start by stuffing the legs and a little of the body and continue adding stuffing as you decrease the body. Round 43. [ sc x 14 sc-dec ] rep (45) Rounds 44-45. Sc in each st around (45) Round 46. [ sc x 13, sc-dec ] rep (42) Rounds 47-48. Sc in each st around (42) Round 49. Sc x 12, sc-dec ] rep (39) Rounds 50-51. Sc in each st around (39) Round 52. [ sc x 11, sc-dec ] rep (36) Rounds 53-54. Sc in each st around (36) Round 55. [ sc x 10, sc-dec ] rep (33) Rounds 56-57. Sc in each st around (33) Round 58. [ sc x 9, sc-dec] rep (30) Round 59-60. Sc in each st around (30) Round 61. [ sc x 8, sc-dec ] rep (27) Rounds 62-63. Sc in each st around (27) Round 64. [ sc x 7, sc-dec ] rep (24) Rounds 65-66. Sc in each st around (24) Round 67. [ sc x 6, sc-dec ] rep (21) Rounds 68-69. Sc in each st around (21)

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8|Page Round 70. [ sc x 5 sc-dec ] rep (18) Rounds 71-72. Sc in each st around (18) Round 73. [ sc x 4, sc-dec ] rep (15) Rounds 74-75. Sc in each st around (15) Sc into the next 3 st (or however many to get you to the edge of the neck when flattened) Flatten and sc through both sets of stitches to close up the neck. Sew the neck to the head between rounds 18-19 of the head.

ARMS X2 Round 1. 10 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop (10) Rounds 2-33. Sc in each st around (10) Sl st into the next st to finish off, leave a long tail and sew the arms to the sides of the body.

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9|Page DUNGAREES (using alpaca or any d.k/light worsted yarn) Using your 5mm hook Round 1. Ch 30, join to the 1st ch with a sl st to form a ring, ch 1 Round 2. Hdc into the same st as the ch 1, and in each ch around (30) Join to the 1st hdc with a sl st, ch 1 ***do this at the end of every round from now on*** **Always hdc into the same st as the ch 1 at the beginning of each round** Round 3. Hdc in each st around (30) Round 4. [ hdc x 9, hdc-inc ] rep (33) Round 5. hdc in each st around (33) Round 6. [ hdc x 10, hdc-inc ] rep (36) Round 7. Hdc in each st around (36) Round 8. [ Hdc x 11, hdc-inc ] rep (39) Round 9. Hdc in each st around (39) Round 10. [ hdc x 12, hdc-inc ] rep (42) Round 11. Hdc in each st around (42) Round 12. [ hdc x 13, hdc-inc ] rep (45) Round 13. Hdc in each st around (45) Round 14. [ hdc x 14, hdc-inc ] rep (48) Rounds 15-16. Hdc in each st around (48) We will now make the legs Round 17. Hdc in each of the next 24 st, join to the 1st st with a sl st (24) Rounds 18-19. Hdc in each st around Finish off. 2nd leg. Leave a long beginning tail. Join in yarn at the 1st unworked st from round 16 (would have been the 25th st) ch 1, hdc into the same st and in each of the next 23 st, join to the 1st st of the round with a sl st (24)

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10 | P a g e Rounds 2-3. Hdc in each st around. Use the tail you left at the beginning of the round to sew the gap between the legs closed. Weave in all ends.

STRAPS X2 Leave a beginning tail of a few inches before you make your slip knot. Row 1. Ch 11, hdc into the 2nd ch and in each ch along, ch 1 turn (10) Row 2. Hdc in each st along (10) Finish off and leave a long tail. Put the dungarees onto the moose, Thread the tail of the strap onto the needle and sew the strap to the front of the dungarees. Use the other tail, thread it onto your needle and sew the other end of the strap to the back of the dungarees. Secure and weave in the yarn tails. You will now be able to take the dungarees on and off.

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I hope you enjoyed making Murphy moose! Follow me on Instagram for my latest updates and sneak peeks into new patterns @kornflake_stew Please note this pattern is for PERSONAL use only. You may make as many items as you wish for yourself or as gifts. You may sell any items you produce from this pattern (on a small scale) but please link back or give credit to me as the designer. Please do NOT share, reproduce or sell this pattern in part or as a whole. Please respect my rights as a designer.

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