Practical Fishkeeping 2018-02.pdf

The GOLD Cardinals coming to a shop near you

How to set up a river aquarium …and what to put in it

FRIENDLYGHOSTS Whyyouneed Phantom tetras in your life

32

Issue 2 February 18 £4.40

AIR PUMPS TRIED & TESTED

&

THE BRIGHT THE BOLD THE BEAUTIFUL

Discover Flagfin angelfish, Zebra plecs, Carpet anemones, Sardine cichlids and more

STEP-BY-STEP

Takeiteasywithour lowmaintenance island aquascape

900S

1200S

1500S

1800S

600SCube

OASE HighLine Aquariums Pure design, no compromise The HighLine range of aquariums from OASE help make fish-keeping easy including contemporary design, hidden technology and reduced cleaning and maintenance. Filter technology is located in the cabinet which is hidden from view but still easily accessible. Modern, energy efficient LED lighting creates the right atmosphere while beautifully lighting your fish and encouraging plant growth. Quality and individual design - a new standard in Indoor Aquatics. Ɣ Available in three sizes - 200L, 300L & 400L Ɣ Available in three decors - glossy white, glossy anthracite and natural oak Ɣ Pull out shelf Ɣ Adjustable feet for stability Ɣ No handle doors For more information please visit www.oase-livingwater.com

Welcome Learn from the best

JEREMY GAY is a former PFK editor and now Evolution Aqua’s Business Development Manager. He spotlights a very un-cichlid-like cichlid from Lake Tanganyika. Page 36.

DAVE WOLFENDEN is curator at the Blue Planet Aquarium in Cheshire Oaks. He offers advice on keeping carpet anemones on page 46.

NATHAN HILL is an aquatic journalist and PFK’s features editor. He profiles phantom tetras, discovers a gorgeous new ‘gold’ Cardinal tetra and offers advice on fast-flow set-ups. Pages 8, 18 and 78.

One of the first fish I ever kept as a newbie in the 80s was the Black phantom tetra. These are gorgeous little fish and, kept in a decent ratio of boy and girls, you’ll see plenty of displays between rival males. At the time I was a very inexperienced fishkeeper, and while I’d noticed the males, with their elongated dorsal fins and black attire, I hadn’t really taken notice of the females, which were looking washed out in the sales tank. I assumed in my naivety that they were a different species (the shop regularly mixed the fish in its tanks). Once the assistant had confirmed that they would be okay in my set-up, I left him to bag me some up. It wasn’t until I got home that I realised I had three Black phantoms and three ‘other fish’. Rather than make what would have been a 50-mile round trip back to the shop, I muttered something unpleasant about the assistant and acclimatised them all to my tank. In my defence there was no Internet back then, with research limited to books and magazines. It didn’t help that the only photo I had of Black phantoms — in black and white — showed a single male. However, as the females coloured up and became gorgeous in their own right while the males sized one another up with stiffened fins and displays, it was obvious even to a newbie that they were different sexes of the same species. In fact, when I visited the shop again I bought a few more — and they were even better in bigger numbers. I still have a soft spot for these delightful fish. Find out more about them on page 8. I’d like to take this opportunity on behalf of everyone at PFK to wish you all a very Happy Christmas and a fish-filled 2018!

24 Reader’s amazing hanging reef aquarium.

8 Phantastic Phantoms.

36 Keep sardine cichlids.

Get more PFK! Like us on Facebook.com

Karen Youngs, editor NES WITH MUCKY HOMES

GABOR HORVATH is a Hungarian aquarist with over 35 years of fishkeeping experience. He tests a range of aquarium air pumps on page 96.

Get the next three issues of Practical Fishkeeping for SEE just £5! PAGE

MARI NES S

Get spawning! Banish winter blues with our breeding project ideas

No m e

101

FASCINATING FISH FACTS Discover what make th

a ids

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

FR EGU 24-PA GE IDE TOBEGINN ER

Why Aussie oughnuts un rings around other corals

contra arium st

es

All the colours the rainb of ow Disco

ver dazzl ng the — the Mic o Lord co ee keepe al every r is a ter!

GOLDF AB ISH —

a fancy

for pond s

Follow us @PFKmagazine Watch us on youtube.com/ user/practicalfishkeeping

52

5

February Cover image: Neil Hepworth

ON THE COVER

08

PHANTASTIC PHANTOMS You don’t have to be garish to leave a lasting impression, and the subtle, understated charm of the Phantom tetras will win you over in a heartbeat.

18

SEASONAL DELIGHTS

36

HOW TO KEEP SARDINES

42 46 54 58 78 96 6

46

Oddities are in full swing this month, with some very unconventionally coloured new arrivals... No, not the kind you buy in tomato sauce! These sardines are the gorgeous Cyprichromis, from Tanganyika. Every Rift Valley fan should keep them at least once…

A SOFT SPOT FOR STRIPES The Zebra plec is one of the most iconic freshwater fish in the hobby. Johnny Jensen puts together an ideal home for these lovely catfish.

MAGIC CARPETS The carpet anemones are among the most beautiful and imposing invertebrates you’ll see and in the right set-up they can make an amazing centrepiece.

THE TAKE-IT-EASY ISLAND Aquascaping doesn’t have to be hard work. You don’t need super high lighting, loads of liquid fertilisers, expensive CO2 injection and huge water changes...

78

HOIST THE FLAG A stunner on every front, the Flagfin angel is a slightly wildcard marine showpiece that’ll liven a dull FOWLR system, or — with an element of risk — a well planned reef.

GOING DOWN THE RIVER While most aquaria are static cubes of water, many fish hail from waters that are much livelier — and there’s plenty to gain from going with the flow…

THE BIG AIR PUMP TEST

42

We compare 32 aquarium air pumps over a range of tank sizes, with some surprising results.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

70 FISHKEEPING KNOW-HOW

60

PARENT POWER

68

INSPIRATIONAL AQUARIUMS

70

AQUATIC SCHOOL

The underwater world is a dangerous place and young fish need all the help they can get to make it to maturity. For many species, the key to survival starts with their parents.

In association with

DIPLOMA

60

The colours of the cichlids in this Malawi set-up contrast beautifully with the almost monochrome rocky hardscape. The final part of our Diploma series looks at tank management, and the tasks that you need to perform to keep things healthy.

84

84

HAPPY, HEALTHY NEW YEAR Make a new year’s resolution to improve your fishkeeping this year. One small change can bring lots of benefits.

YOUR FISH & TANKS

24

OFF THE WALL Ralph Moorman discovered a way to have a large, heavy reef tank in a fourth storey apartment without it falling through the floor.

30 34

58

24

TANK COMMUNITY The place to share your fish, tanks and experiences.

ME AND MY TANK Gavin Little’s aquaria are a paradise for L-number catfish and elephantnoses.

NEWS & REVIEWS

14 102 106

FISHKEEPING NEWS All the latest on the aquatic front.

NEW GEAR We review the products coming to a shop near you soon.

106

SHOPTOUR We visit retailers in Dublin and Wembley.

PROBLEMS SOLVED

87

36

PLUS

52 114

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

FISHKEEPING ANSWERS Some of the world’s top experts answer your questions.

SUBSCRIBE TO PFK!

87

Save money when you take out a subscription to PFK.

TAILPIECE Nathan Hill is suffering with the heat.

7

Phantastic

PHANTOMS You don’t have to be garish to leave a lasting impression, and the subtle, understated charm of the Phantom tetras will win you over in a heartbeat, given the chance.

WORDS: NATHAN HILL

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

I

f you ever fancy getting lost within a single genus, you could do worse than immersing yourself into the Hyphessobrycon of South America. Fishbase, the online ‘fishcyclopaedia’ of species, currently has no less than 140 species marked as valid. Wikipedia, either ahead of the curve, or still including outdated species, lists 154. Understanding the relationships between different Hyphessobrycon is a feat at best. Taxonomists put in long hours to tidy things up, but these far-reaching and loosely homogenous fish make it hard work. In some cases, the construction of clades (a kind of tighter ancestral link within a genus) has lifted imbricated clusters of fish out of the confusion. Particularly switched on readers may have heard of the Rosy tetra clade, for example, where DNA analysis has highlighted the relationships between a handful of species. A consequence of ongoing reclassification is that it tears apart some of the old ‘colloquial’ associations we’ve known and trusted for years. In the early days, fish were routinely lumped together on the basis of similar appearance alone, and the hobby came to recognise them as such. Now the old ties are being broken at a scientific level. Among those tossed around in this new world order are the gorgeously trapezoid fish that are the Phantom tetra.

Three of a kind If you’re out of the loop, you might be confused — Phantom tetras are Meglamphodus, not Hyphessobrycon, surely? Well, they were, up to 1997 when Meglamphodus was made a synonym. If you’re hauling old books off the shelf, like the Baensch or Axelrod atlas, then they’ll be written up as Meglamphodus all the way. You’re also forgiven if you’re using retailer labels as identification. Whether lazy or oblivious, I still to this day see Phantoms sold under the old scientific moniker. Almost all of us will have seen the regal Black phantom, Hyphessobrycon megalopterus. Fewer of us may have sifted out Red phantoms, Hyphessobrycon sweglesi, from retailer tanks filled with similarly shaped, similarly marked Hyphessobrycon on offer. But you’ll need an acquired taste — likely you’re a biotope buff — if you know the Yellow (or Golden) phantom, Hyphessobrycon roseus, too. This sliding scale from well-known to scarce ties in with their availability. Black phantoms are almost entirely farmed, en masse in the Far East or Eastern Europe. Red phantoms tend to be a mix of farmed and wild caught imports. The best Yellow phantoms are those that come in wild — the farmed versions are the blandest of the bunch.

Yellow phantoms, Hyphessobrycon roseus.

8

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

Fish of the month

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

Red phantom, Hyphessobrycon sweglesi.

Male Black phantom, Hyphessobrycon megalopterus. www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

9

Black phantoms Getting a Black phantom to bloom requires clever housing, and a little patience. Young fish in stores (especially in tanks denuded of substrate) are the piscine equivalent of bedroom-dwelling teenagers — pale and gaunt, and a little bit moody too. If you want them at their best you should buy multiple males, and plenty of females for them to show off to. Sexing them is pretty easy. A big dorsal fin, leading to a bit of a point, and it’s a young male. A round paddle of a dorsal, and some orange-red in the anal fin and belly, means it’s a lady. Now, get them in a tank. Rest assured, they’ll flourish in almost any choice of decor (I’ve seen them as a curious contrast, looking stunning in a tank with ‘clown

vomit’ gravel and dayglow plastic plants — not mine, I should add). They’ll look even more stunning in a biotope. Black phantoms, originally from Bolivia and Brazil, are often found in vast wetlands. For the aquarist, that’s a biotope blessing. Wetlands mean plants, plants and more plants, as much or as little sunken wood as you like, and totally clear water. I’d want a tank of around 100cm long for a decent shoal (12 to 18 individuals), preferably with a respectable width as well as length. Some of the new aquascapeoriented tanks have ideal footprints, but make sure you can cover them. Black phantoms are known to launch themselves from open aquaria. On the base, plump for something dark,

like a planting substrate, or one of the dark sands from JBL or Dennerle. Lighter sand will look stark against a jet-black fish. Besides, these tetras lend themselves to a tank that’s moody, dull and secretive. You want them to completely relax in their surroundings. Go mad on plants — Sagittaria, Eleocharis, Bacopa and Echinodorus are all great. Toss on some floating Salvinia and let it proliferate, and it’ll all add to the wetland ambience, while keeping excess nutrients in check. Finish your tank off with a few fallen branches and a generous handful of leaf litter. You’ll need to soak the leaves for a long time before use — I simmer mine on the hob for an hour or so, replacing the stained

Male Black phantoms grow to live up to their name. Gone are the wishy washy greys and in comes a sheen as black as coal. The dorsal fin becomes a long, arcing scythe of bellowing skin. Now is when the magic happens.

10

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Fish of the month BLACK PHANTOM

ALAMY

water with fresh every ten minutes or so. The aim of the game is not to stain the water — you want to get a nice, wilderness feel on the bottom of the tank. You may even get a bit of an ecosystem down there, with little worms and copepods that the phantoms can tuck in to. Don’t panic if you do happen to get some water discolouration, the fish won’t mind a bit of tannic acid in the water. Just avoid turning everything the colour of amber. Sit back and wait. Feed them well with a mix of fresh, live and frozen foods — don’t forget to add some greenery to it. Those young, greyish fish will mature, and oh, will they mature into something special. Females will stay the blander gender, but as adults they’ll have wonderful, burnt-orange

ventral fins, and a charming red adipose fin, as subtle as a brooch. On their flanks, the unique ‘Eye of Sauron’ markings will be at full shine, an inverted black teardrop set arly sheen of green, urquoise. males will grow to live o their name. Gone e the wishy-washy Watch for whitespot reys and in comes a when buying Black phantoms. sheen as black as coal, with only a splash of While not especially prone to powdery, bright the disease, they can be carriers, colour behind each and newly imported fish in pectoral. Look to the particular may have the odd dorsal fin, and where it was only slightly spot. Inspect all the fish in nlarged before, there’s the sale tank, not just the w a long, arcing scythe ones you’re buying. llowing skin. This is he magic happens. tuck to a decent male to female ratio (40/60 is a safe bet), the men of the tank will now display to each other, full of moxie and proud as Adonis. Two fish will approach each other, with an eye on becoming the tank’s alpha, raising their disproportionate dorsal fins while stretching their anal fins to capacity, and they’ll dance a tight dance to one another, each vying for dominance. There’s no biting involved, no chasing or bullying. Everything comes down to who is the biggest, and who dances the best. Look closely for the finesse of the moves, especially the slight sideways tilt at the last moment. The whole affair looks a little like the kind of circling combat seen in ocean sharks. Tank mates can include anything that’s peaceful, not too large, and ideally South American. Avoid pugnacious cichlids like Angelfish — small Apistogramma would be best suited, but avoid species that need extreme blackwater conditions. Torpedobodied tetra will be ignored and pencilfish and hatchets will fit in nicely. A shoal of NATHAN HILL

TOP TIP

Why the Hyphessoconfusion?

A trio of Black phantoms, with the female to the left.

We have French Icthyologist Jacques Géry to blame for bundling some tetra together in groups where they no longer fit. In his defence, he was dashing around, formally describing the phantoms in 1961, a year before Watson and Crick were given a platform for their discovery of DNA. With relatively primitive morphological tools at his disposal, it made sense to Géry to arrange fish by colour relations.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

G Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon megalopterus (High-fess-oh-brr-eye-con meg-ah-lop-terr-uss). G Size: Usually to around 3.5cm, females slightly smaller. G Origin: Bolivia and Brazil. G Habitat: Wetlands, ponds, pools, lakes, backwaters. Found in shoals around plants. G Tank size: 60 x 30cm minimum footprint for a small shoal. G Water requirements: Soft and acidic to neutral: 5.5 to 7.0pH, hardness 1 to 12°H. G Temperature: 20 to 28°C. G Temperament: Hierarchical but not aggressive. G Feeding: Flakes, pellets; live and frozen Daphnia, Cyclops, bloodworm and Calanus; greenfoods algae supplements, fruit. G Availability and cost: Common, from around £2.50 each. 0

Temp C

pH 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

Tank volume

54 l+

5

Corydoras whiskering about in the substrate will help to keep leaf litter aired.

Red phantoms While the Black phantom comes in one type, and one type alone, there seem to be a handful of different morphs masquerading under the Red phantom name. The most common fish are the farmed ones. They have a body shape similar to, but slightly more stretched than, the Black phantoms. They’re mostly orange with a hint of transparency. On the flank, the black spot is more splodge than teardrop shaped, and lacking any kind of blue/green backdrop. The anal, ventral and caudal fins are the same orange as the body, if a little deeper. The dorsal may be orange-bottomed with a broad black blotch covering the upper two-thirds, though it may also be orange throughout. Sometimes, there’s a white tip to the dorsal, too, while the adipose fin can be either white or orange. To be controversial, I think many of these farmed Red phantoms are frauds. I think that somewhere along the line, some broodstock has been contaminated with other Hyphessobrycon species. It certainly wouldn’t be the first time. Wild imports come in from Venezuela or Colombia and tend to be clearer in the body, but redder in the fins — the dorsal, ventral and caudal fins in particular have an intensity not found on the farmed species. The black splodge on the flanks is still there, but to my eye always looks a little ‘rougher’ than those of farmed fish. Again, the dorsal

11

Male Red phantom (top) with the female below.

The only connecting theme with these fish is the ‘phantom’ in the name. Rather than blood brothers, they are loose cousins. But related or not, all make for superb aquarium denizens. are higher maintenance than their Black counterparts. They’re unforgiving of swings in pH or hardness and the dreaded whitespot will be hot on the heels of a poorly kept specimen. Behaviour and shape wise, there isn’t a huge difference between these and Black phantoms. Males will dance, erecting their elongate, sickle-shaped dorsal fins, while smaller, less glamorous females watch with indifference. Suitable tank mates are also similar — Red phantoms are no more or less waspish than Black ones, happy to spend their time displaying to each other and ignoring all

RED PHANTOM

G Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon sweglesi (High-fess-oh-brr-eye-con sway-gels-eye). G Size: Usually to around 3.5cm, females slightly smaller. G Origin: Colombia and Venezuela. G Habitat: Wetlands, ponds, pools, lakes, backwaters. Found in shoals around plants and Morichale roots. G Tank size: 60 x 30cm minimum footprint for a small shoal. G Water requirements: Soft and acidic to neutral: 4.5 to 7.0pH, hardness 1 to 12°H. G Temperature: 20 to 28°C. G Temperament: Hierarchical but not aggressive. G Feeding: Flakes, pellets; live and frozen Daphnia, Cyclops, bloodworm and Calanus; greenfoods algae supplements, fruit. G Availability and cost: Farmed fish are common, from around £2.50 each. Wilds usually on request, starting around £3.50 per fish. 0

pH

Temp C 8 7 6 5

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

Tank volume

54 l+

4

12

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

fins may be plain orange, or they may be imprinted with a large black blob. Then there’s the Red phantom ‘Red’ or ‘Rubra’ variant, often brought in from Colombia. Here, the body has very little pigmentation, while the head and fins are the fiercest red of all. The adipose fin looks almost see through it’s so pale, while the dorsal fin carries a black streak along the front. In contrast to the other Red phantom types, the flanking black splodge tends to be washed out. The ‘Rubra’ examples seem to come from flowing blackwater regions, with high tannins and high acidity, while the tamer variants are found across the tropical grassland plains of Los Llanos. Here, Red phantoms are found in close proximity to Moriche palms — a tree that will only grow where it can live with its roots underwater. Phantoms are often found around the fallen palm leaves and associated vegetation at their bases. However, all of that means nothing if you’ve got a run-of-the-mill supplier. Farmed phantoms haven’t seen a palm leaf in their lives. But note that even farmed Red phantoms

Fish of the month Yellow phantoms may be the least colourful of the trio, but they will be perfect for a biotope set-up.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

YELLOW PHANTOM

else. If it’s small and torpedo shaped, or if it shuffles across the substrate, it will be fine.

Yellow phantoms The Yellow phantom is the two-door hatchback compared to the family saloons of the Black and Red relatives. It’s a smaller fish, with comparatively muted colours. At its worst, this is a silvery-yellow tetra, with hints of red around the caudal peduncle. The spot on the flank is present, at a darker and higher resolution than its cousins. Any black in the fins is washed out at best, and that’s where black exists at all. Mostly, the fins are a light orange hue, and wholly underwhelming. As you can tell, I’m not sold on them. Until, that is, you show me a wild import. Suddenly the yellow of the body becomes all the more intense. The fins brandish bright tips, with hints of a dark central band through the dorsal — much like the X-ray tetra. Fed well, with a carotenoid-rich diet, the red of the caudal region becomes a glowing beacon. With a little work, this phantom can be reclaimed from the land of drab. Yet, they still lack the ‘oomph’ of the Red and Black phantoms. Their compact bodies reach maybe half to two thirds the mass of the others here. The dorsal fin, for its colours, never attains the sail-like stature. It www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

is, I’m sad to say, a species that needs to be appreciated on its own merits. Those merits include being a subtle fish in an outstanding biotope. Yellow phantoms are associated with iragapés — the indigenous name for canoe paths — which are shallow, blackwater, packed with leaves and fallen wood, with maybe a little vegetation here and there. They’re great fun to set up at home, too. Get fine sand (silver is fine). Toss in a few branches. Rain dried leaves over it all like some South American snowglobe, and maybe plant a little hairgrass here and there. Use ultra-soft water (invest in some RO) and let those leaves release their staining tannins. The Yellow phantoms will love it. That’s pretty much it! If you’re not too fussed about owning a communitope, add some bright pencilfish species (this aquarium is crying out for the likes of Nannostomus mortenthaleri) and a handful of small Corydoras, and you’ve an enviable set-up. Just note that of all three, wild Yellows are the least tolerant of high or fluctuating pH values, so keep things soft and acidic. But that really isn’t an issue with the farmed ones. For their blandness, I’ve seen them kept in communities alongside tank mates that prefer things in the 7.5pH upwards mark.

G Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon roseus (High-fess-oh-brr-eye-con row-see-uss). G Size: Usually to around 2cm, females slightly smaller. G Origin: French Guiana and Brazil. G Habitat: Slow, shallow streams with heaps of fallen wood and leaf litter, and overhanging vegetation. G Tank size: 60 x 30cm minimum footprint for a small shoal. G Water requirements: Soft and acidic to neutral: 5.0 to 7.0pH, hardness 1 to 10°H — farmed fish to 7.5pH, hardness to around 16°H. G Temperature: 22 to 28°C. G Temperament: Hierarchical but not aggressive. G Feeding: Flakes, pellets; live and frozen Daphnia, Cyclops, bloodworm and Calanus; greenfoods, algae supplements, fruit. G Availability and cost: Farmed moderately available (check larger chain stores in particular), starting around £2.50 each. Wild caught fish available intermittently from specialists, starting around £2.50 each. 0

pH

Temp C 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

54 l+

5

13

FISHKEEPING NEWS Latest news and events from the world of aquatics. SPECIAL REPORT

The best (and worst) of the China show WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: GABOR HORVATH The China International Pet Show is Asia’s — if not the world’s — largest pet show, with hundreds of exhibitors. 2017 year saw its 21st show, which took place in November in Shanghai, in four enormous halls, each big enough to swallow a football stadium. CIPS is a giant showcase, where potential buyers from all over the world can find suppliers, and I actually met quite a few representatives from the UK, looking for new ideas.

Full of colour One of the first things that struck me was the abundance of colour everywhere. There were neon green filter pumps, purple air pumps and yellow submarines (which actually turned out to be aquarium heaters). You could also find tank decorations in every shape and colour, including underwater volcanos, pink jellyfish with flashing LEDs. Fortunately, for those (like me), who prefer their decor a bit more natural, there was still plenty to see. An international aquascaping contest was included in the program and many of the contestants were on hand to answer questions, as well as holding workshops during the four days of the show. Several stalls presented a wide range of rocks, wood and other aquascaping hardware.

Wi-Fi control The key theme of this show seemed to be the intelligent aquarium with Wi-Fi controllable products. Among them was SICCE, which recently introduced its smart Syncra SDC Wi-Fi Controllable pump series. There were lots of claimed ‘world’s firsts’ at the show, including Wi-Fi controlled Moon-LEDs, wavemakers, top-up systems, feeders and even power sockets. Many of them had a mini USB input allowing them to be run or charged by mobile power banks. Other companies focused on smart monitoring systems, many offering complete set-ups with built-in dashboards, which looked very sleek and futuristic. Perhaps we’ll soon find ourselves controlling fully automatic aquariums from our mobiles, doing water changes or feeding our stock from the comfort of an armchair without getting our hands wet — although for me, that would take the joy out of my fishkeeping.

No more water changes? Having said that, I’m not against products that reduce aquarium chores, giving me more time to spend on my favourite fish related activities. Therefore, when I saw the DBS stand boasting

14

that no water changes were necessary in the tanks they build, I decided to investigate further. According to the manager, their special filtration system based on natural minerals removes all the harmful materials from the water, so there is no need for a water change. In a moderately stocked tank (in this case a 3m long aquarium with six 45cm long Koi and a Pearl Arowana) you need to replace one of the four filter cartridges every six months. In the first two years the replacements, sent to you directly by the manufacturer, are included in the original price (which is $1000 per metre aquarium) and would set you back $50 a year afterwards. The manager told me they have tanks more than five years old running in the test lab with this system. The only issue is that this filtration only works in a bare bottomed tank. Equipment-wise, I didn’t see many new products. There were some minor improvements on the existing lines, but nothing major. Nevertheless, it was a great experience to meet the big Chinese companies and browse their immense offerings. Many of the aquarium products you can buy in the UK originate from China, with several well-known brands getting their supplies from factories here — there really are some quality products coming from China, especially if you stick to the well known brands. I found a few very promising new companies bringing fresh ideas to the market. One of them is a company from South-Korea, called ZISS Aqua (PFK recently reviewed its ingenious egg tumbler), but there are plenty more products in this range. The build quality looked exceptional. However, I also came across other companies (some of the names pop up regularly on online marketplaces) whose products looked like the mainstream stuff of ten years ago, and in some cases the build quality was appalling.

A Chinese dragon made an appearance in the marine aquascaping competition.

These bowls take the word ‘ornamental’ to the extreme.

Flowerhorns are still very popular in China.

Global Championships CIPS isn’t just a trade show — there was a Global Ornamental Fish Championship in several categories, featuring outstanding specimens of stingrays, Loricariids, ornamental shrimp, crayfish, Flowerhorns, Guppies, Betta, Koi, Discus and Arowana. There was also an international marine aquascaping contest. I felt like a child in a sweet shop. While waiting for my train after the show had finished, inspired by all the amazing fish I had seen, I began to contemplate my choices in case of a lottery win: should it be an Arowana, Discus or Stingray tank? However, as I managed to squeeze myself into the already full metro car another fish came to mind: sardines… PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Fancy a McDonald’s theme?

Superb Koi Plakat fighter in the Betta show.

An international aquascaping contest took place at the show.

These cylindrical fish tanks had everything up to and including bathing elephants mounted on the hood and sides.

This eye-catching stingray is likely to be a hybrid.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

15

RETAIL NEWS

PFK Top Staff Member award This year Practical Fishkeeping launched a new award for the top shop staff member of 2017. We asked shop owners and managers to nominate their employees for what we wanted to be an extension of the PFK Retailer of the Year, to recognise the hard-working and often unsung heroes of our hobby. What we weren’t prepared for was the sheer number of nominations, by both people in the trade and shop customers. The support for this award has been quite overwhelming, making choosing a winner more difficult than we expected. But finally, after much deliberation, we are delighted to announce that the winner of the 2017 award is Martin Chamberlain of The Aquatic Store in Bristol, who was nominated by the shop’s owner, Nicholas Cox.

Walking encyclopedia Martin is the fish house manager and he has worked at The Aquatic Store for the past seven years. Nicholas describes him as a ‘walking encyclopedia’, loyal and passionate, offering great customer service as well as being a keen aquascaper. He tells us: “Martin’s knowledge is second to none. From South/Central America to Australia, he knows the fish, biotope and care of most freshwater species. “He always goes above and beyond the call

“Martin refuses fish sales daily, either because the tank wasn’t set up correctly or the fish doesn’t suit the aquarium size or tank mates.”

Martin Chamberlain (right) with boss Nicholas Cox, who nominated him for this new PFK award.

of duty, including going to customers’ houses in his own time to help people either set up a new aquarium or help resolve issues they are having. “A while back we had a wild Brazilian shipment due in at 1am — I was very unwell at the time and couldn’t make it in, so Martin went into the store for 1am and put the whole shipment away on his own; he didn’t leave until 5am.” The welfare of the fish is paramount to Martin and he always puts them first, Nicholas says. “As the fish house manager, he brought in a policy that we don’t stock any goldfish at all in the store, so people physically cannot purchase goldfish from us to go into tiny bowls, small tanks or even aquariums in general. “Martin refuses fish sales daily, either because the aquarium was not set up correctly or the fish does not suit the aquarium size or tank mates.” As winner of the PFK Top Staff Member award, Martin wins £100 worth of gift vouchers. He says: “After almost 10 years in the aquarium trade it is an honour to receive this award. If it

Martin is the fish house manager at The Aquatic Store in Bristol.

16

wasn’t for the support and dedication from every customer and aquarist I’ve worked with over the years I wouldn’t be where I am today. “With almost 150 aquariums in my care, I always strive for perfection whether it be measuring and altering water chemistry specific to the needs of individual fish or ensuring customers leave with compatible fish that they’ll be capable of caring for correctly, I am always happy to get to work. “I am never afraid to refuse a sale if I feel the customer won’t be able to provide a suitable home or cater for the individual needs of the fish. The wellbeing of the fish comes first and any sell or purchase ties into a duty of care. “A huge thank you to Nick, who took over The Aquatic Store this year, for his recommendation and for upholding the extremely high standards of fish care and customer service we have always offered. A great boss and the most dedicated aquarist I know!”

Martin has 150 aquariums in his care.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Advertisement feature

Createatalking point in your home! If you want an aquatic centrepiece that looks great and creates a real talking point, Tetra’s AquaArt Explorer provides the perfect solution. As simple as splish, splash, splosh! Maintain crystal clear waters in three easy steps

1

PREPARING THE AQUARIUM Many fishkeepers don’t realise how harmful the chemicals in untreated tapwater can be to fish. Tetra’s AquaSafe turns tapwater immediately into fish safe nature-like aquarium water through neutralising harmful substances while also supporting long-term health in fish. RRP £5.40/100ml*.

2

BALANCING BACTERIA Beneficial bacteria is essential in lowering the levels of harmful ammonia and nitrate in tank water which rapidly rise when fish are introduced. If the correct balance is not maintained, fish can be poisoned by their own waste. Adding FilterActive after every water change helps replenish necessary bacteria to help protect fish from disease. RRP £6.15/100ml*.

3

T

etra’s AquaArt Explorer range combines modern design with state of the art equipment, allowing fishkeepers, both new and experienced, to create a beautiful underwater world, which is also easy and convenient to maintain. Available in both 30 l and 60 l and boasting an attractive curved design, Tetra’s AquaArt Explorer range features premium-quality aquarium glass and a long-lasting, powerful LED light with low power consumption to provide natural looking light inside the aquarium for a relaxing glow. The EasyCrystal filter, which is also included, does all the hard work of removing waste to promote optimal water quality for healthy fish. Thanks to the Tetra Aquatics App, which helps to maintain positive water quality through a water test feature, you can also set up www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

STABILISING WATER The pH levels in water change over time and an increase can lead to high levels of nitrate, which can be harmful to fish if left for too long. EasyBalance stabilises water parameters, prolonging the time between partial water changes for up to 3-6 months while adding essential vitamins and trace elements for a healthy aquarium. RRP £5.10/100ml*. *Please note any reference to pricing is purely indicative. Retail pricing is entirely at the retailer’s discretion.

filter change reminders to make the process even easier than before. If that wasn’t enough, both aquariums come complete with food and care products. For those looking to keep tropical fish, the Tetra AquaArt Explorer 60 l also comes complete with a Tetra HT50 heater, perfect for fishkeepers looking to expand their experience. The Tetra AquaArt Explorer 30 l aquarium is available with an RRP of £87 and the 60L, £125*. *Please note any reference to pricing is purely indicative. Retail pricing is entirely at the retailer’s discretion.

O WANT TO KNOW MORE? For more information about Tetra, the AquaArt Explorer aquarium and to view the full range please visit www.tetra-fish. co.uk or check out Tetra UK on Facebook to join in the conversation.

17

Seasonal delights!

Oddities are in full swing this month, with some very unconventionally coloured new arrivals...

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: NATHAN HILL

Seen at Neil Hardy Aquatica, Carshalton

GOETHE’S CHARAX y species within its genus, the tiny ax goethei is a nano-biotope dream in Usually, these things come in as couple here and a couple there d Cardinal tetra. Wholesaler Neil k full of the things. ed to be really gentle when handling g five into a bag (and I take great m of my netting skills) and all of from being caught. They rolled ught they might even die. It took snap back out of it. Next up, assuming you can get them transported safely, is to get a magnifying glass and have a good look at their mouths. All tetra are ‘toothy’ (that’s one of the traits of being a characin) but these guys are more ‘fangy’. Rather than being close to the likes of Glowlights and Neons, these are closely related to the Freshwater barracuda and Dog characins — those high-speed, needle-toothed, hook jawed predators. For their rough connections, in aquaria they seem as peaceful as Tibetan monks. Get them a little planted tank with leaf litter, and they’ll shine.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Fish in the shops

GOLDEN CARDINAL TETRA

Okay, so how do I approach these? Technically, the fish in question are ill, or at least they were once. As they are here, they’re in rude health. They’re just at the zenith of unusual (read ‘gorgeous’) markings for a Cardinal. Gone are the classic electric blue and red layers, and in comes this intense golden-platinum sheen. This metal-plating effect is only ever seen in wild caught fish, and is a sign of an active immune system. Long story short, some wild tetra become infected with a tiny trematode parasite (a microscopic flatworm) and by way of reaction they produce light-reflecting guanine that deposits in the skin. The gold-guanine response is seen in several wild-import tetra species (famously in the Gold tetra) but this is the first time I’ve seen it to such an intense degree on Cardinals. Note that if you spawn them, the golden sheen isn’t inherited. You’ll just get ordinary Cardinals. Which is no bad thing. Being wild caught, you’ll need soft and acidic water, and some discolouring tannins in the water would be a definite advantage.

G Scientific name: Hoplocharax goethei. G Size: To 3cm. G Origin: South America, including Brazil, Venezuela G Habitat: Slow moving forest streams, usually in blackwater and associated with overhanging vegetation. G Aquarium size: Minimum 45 x 30cm footprint. G Water requirements: Soft, acidic, blackwater conditions: 5.0 to 7.0pH, hardness to 4°H. G Temperature: 23 to 28°C. G Temperament: Peaceful. G Feeding: Fine flakes, Cyclops, microworms, Artemia nauplii. G Availability and cost: Rare as can be, these are currently at a wholesaler —– ask your retailer if they stock Neil Hardy fish to get a price.

0

pH

Temp C 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

Tank volume

40 l+

5

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

G Scientific name: Paracheirodon axelrodi. G Size: To 3.5cm. G Origin: Brazil and Venezeula. G Habitat: Slow moving forest streams, usually in blackwater and associated with overhanging vegetation. G Aquarium size: Minimum 60 x 30cm footprint. G Water requirements: Extremely soft and acidic: 5.0 to 6.0pH, hardness below 4°H. G Temperature: 23 to 28°C G Temperament: Peaceful. G Feeding: Flakes, pellets, live and frozen Daphnia, Cyclops, bloodworm. G Availability and cost: Gold Cardinals of this calibre are extremely rare, these are currently at a wholesaler — ask your retailer if they stock Neil Hardy fish to get a price.

Temp C 9

Seen at Neil Hardy Aquatica, Carshalton

Tank volume

0

pH

8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

54 l+

5

19

ALBINO SPOTTED HOPLO The Japanese have, for decades past, trumped us on interesting catfish, and that’s exactly where these specimens were headed until something went wrong and UK wholesaler Neil Hardy needed to ‘rescue’ the box from limbo. As I understand it, these are being commercially produced by a breeder, but who and where that breeder is, I do not know. In early 2017, I noticed a batch of the same fish crop up on a Glaser import list, so someone out there has the touch. Neil Hardy has already grabbed a handful to slip into the breeding section out back (who knows if they’ll breed true?), but the rest are up for grabs to retailers who are fast enough. On inspection, they really are albino, too. Check out the bright pink eyes! On the downside, that means they come across as pretty short-sighted (they seemed oblivious to me coaxing them around the photo tank with net handles) and so you’ll want to house them in a tank where they’re not going to need to see any territorial boundaries.

 Scientific name: Megalechis thoracata.  Size: To 15cm.  Origin: Widespread over South America, including Brazil, Peru, Paraguay, Trinidad, Guyana and Venezuela.  Habitat: Pools, ponds, oxbows, floodplains.  Aquarium size: Minimum 120 x 30cm footprint.  Water requirements: Tolerant, but best in soft and acidic: 6.0 to 7.8pH, hardness 4 to 16°H.  Temperature: 20 to 28°C.  Temperament: Peaceful.  Feeding: Sinking pellets and granules, live and frozen Daphnia and bloodworm.  Availability and cost: Albinos pretty much unheard of, these are currently at a wholesaler — ask your retailer if they stock Neil Hardy fish to get a price. Tank volume 0

pH

Temp C 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

108 l+

5

GOLDEN FALSE UPSIDE-DOWN CATFISH That’s an awful long-winded name, but it is at least accurate. This fish is Synodontis nigrita, the not-quite upside-down catfish from all across Western Africa. Given its wide distribution and ubiquity, it was inevitable that colour morphs would spring up sometime. This is an imposter on two fronts. It isn’t a true albino (you can tell by the black eye) and importantly, it isn’t a real upside-down catfish, Synodontis nigriventris, either. That second point is essential to note as there’s a size difference between the species — this fish can reach maybe 27cm or so at full stretch, making it great for bigger and oddball communities, but not so hot if you’re planning a 90cm community of tetras and barbs. Considering they have no scales, these are up there as some of the most robust fish you’ll ever meet. I’ve seen them in some very rough and tumble tanks giving just as good as they get.

0

pH

Temp C 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

Tank volume

108 l+

5

 Scientific name: Synodontis nigrita.  Size: To 27.5cm.  Origin: Widespread across Western Africa, including Nigeria, Ghana, Niger, Chad, Senegal and Gambia.  Habitat: In pools adjacent to rivers, usually underneath fallen trees and other cover.  Aquarium size: 120 x 30cm footprint or larger.  Water requirements: Soft acidic to slightly alkaline: 6.2 to 7.8pH, hardness 4 to 18°H  Temperature: 21 to 27°C.  Temperament: Generally peaceful, but can chomp tiny fish. Can be stubborn with territorial species.  Feeding: Sinking pellets and tablets, live and frozen bloodworm.  Availability and cost: Golden variants unusual, these are currently at a wholesaler — ask your retailer if they stock Neil Hardy fish to get a price.

20

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Fish in the shops Seen at Neil Hardy Aquatica, Carshalton

Seen at Neil Hardy Aquatica, Carshalton

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

21

Seen at Wharf Aquatics, Pinxton

PEARL PARROT Has science gone too far? Perhaps we should leave the scientists alone and go straight to the ethicists instead. Are these a fish too far? As a man who formally studied ethics, even I’m ducking out of this one. The fact is, Parrot cichlids are a major seller, so they’re not going to disappear any time soon. Quite the opposite, in fact. Breeders are now melding more and more fish together, creating numerous morphs of a morph. Parrots are hybrid cichlids to start with, and so all farmers need to do now is toss more compatible genes into the mix to see what happens. As deviations from nature go, these Pearl parrots are only slightly distorted. In particular, when I see a parrot I go straight for the mouth — a telltale sign of how mutated these fish are. In the case of these Pearls, they actually had relatively normal mouths — none of that weird puckering that blights so many Parrots. As for where the markings come from… Texas cichlid, maybe? The problem for me is that it’s now reached the point where there could be almost any Central American fish involved, so your guess is good as mine.

 Scientific name: Amphilophus/Paraneetroplus hybrids.  Size: Usually 20 to 30cm  Origin: Made in Taiwan (not joking).  Habitat: None.  Aquarium size: Something around 120 x 30cm footprint suits them.  Water requirements: Endures a wide chemistry range: 6.5 to 8.0pH, hardness 8 to 25°H.  Temperature: 23 to 28°C  Temperament: Semi-peaceful cichlids, not good with tiny fish.  Feeding: Flakes, pellets, live and frozen foods. Unfussy.  Availability and cost: This strain is newer and less common, but Parrots in general are now everywhere. These fish were £45 each. Tank volume 0

Temp C

pH 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

108 l+

5

22

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Fish in the shops

HUMPBACK PUFFER Hawwww! That face! Those chubby cheeks! The adorable big eyes! I lost a chunk of finger flesh to one of these a long time ago, and still have bitter memories of it. For placid looking lumps, they can sure move fast when you’re distracted and cleaning their tanks. Humpbacks are ambush predators, and ravenous fish eaters, so that’s pretty much any idea of a community tank out of the window. A few years back, I knew a guy who had some with Pterygoplichthys catfish, but I don’t know how that worked out in the long run. I’m guessing not great. In the context of the are they/aren’t they debate when it comes to puffers and brackish water, the Humpback is totally freshwater. Unlike some of the other ambush puffers, this one doesn’t bury itself in the substrate, so you’ve a good chance of seeing it, but you do need to give it some cover or it’ll just sit and sulk. Relatively easy to cater for, just ensure a good-sized tank, as they can hit near to 20cm, and make sure you stock up on plenty of shellfish to feed them — offer too much soft food and the beak will overgrow, so those shells are essential!

 Scientific name: Tetraodon palembangensis.  Size: To 19.5cm.  Origin: Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia.  Habitat: Pools, ponds, slow streams and rivers, over mud, sand and debris.  Aquarium size: Ideally 150 x 30cm minimum footprint for a full grown adult.  Water requirements: Neutral to slightly alkaline: 6.8 to 7.5pH, hardness 10 to 20°H.  Temperature: 25 to 28°C.  Temperament: Highly aggressive, house as a species only.  Feeding: Shellfish such as cockle, mussel and clams, prawn, fish chunks.  Availability and cost: Specialist retailer territory, these fish were on sale at £36 each.

Seen at Wharf Aquatics, Pinxton

Tank volume 0

pH

Temp C 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

135 l+

5

23

PHOTOGRAPHY: IVAN MIKOLJI UNLESS STATED

E H T F F O

24

! L L A W

Reader visit

This sensational reef tank belongs to Dutch aquarist Ralph Moorman, who discovered that there is a way to have a large, heavy aquarium in a fourth storey apartment without it falling through the floor... WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: GEORGE FARMER

25

Ample space between corals allows room for growth and prevents too much warfare.

N

ow and again I stumble across an amazing tank that I just have to see in person. I found Ralph’s Reef, a beautiful peninsulastyle mixed reef system on Facebook almost by accident. It immediately caught my attention with its unusual hanging design and awesome aquascape. After a brief message exchange, I booked some flights to Amsterdam armed with camera kit and notepad. Only 15 minutes’ drive from the airport I met up with Ralph, hosted by my Dutch friend, Stefan Pracht. Not surprisingly, the tank was even more impressive in the flesh. The colour and movement was almost too much to take in. The stunning nature of the livestock and layout was matched by the way the system fitted in with Ralph’s amazing fourth floor apartment. It’s no wonder that this tank is internationally well-known and respected by many reefkeepers, and it was a real privilege to be able to witness, photograph and film it. Here’s what Ralph had to tell us about his amazing reef aquarium...

26

Meet the reefkeeper

Squarespot anthias.

O Name: Ralph Moorman. O Age: 41. O Occupation: Author of health books, health expert. O Favourite fish: Hypsypops rubicundus and Apolemichthys trimaculatus. O First fish kept: Goldfish. O Time in hobby: 15 years. O Favourite coral: Stylophora.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Reader visit PFK: Tell us about your background in the hobby. How did you get into reefkeeping? RM: When I was a kid I started with goldfish, then I progressed to a community aquarium with tropical fish. After that I kept Malawi cichlids at my parents’ place. I then gave the hobby a ten-year break. But there was still one big wish on my list — a saltwater reef — and four years ago my dream came true! PFK: Your tank design is amazing! Can you explain the hanging structure and installation process in more detail? RM: I always wanted a big ‘look through’ aquarium. But with a weight of almost 3000 kg it was impossible to put it on the floor in my fourth floor apartment. A friend of mine, Peter van Wieringen, is a reefkeeper and contractor. After calling an engineer he told me that the only possibility was to use a steel construction and hang it on the two opposite bearing walls. One extra advantage was that with this construction we could make a free hanging aquarium — an awesome effect — and we put the sump against the wall and disguised it as a dresser that blends seamlessly with the room. When it’s closed it looks just like a piece of furniture. PFK: What challenges have you faced since the aquarium was set up? RM: This set-up has been running for just over four years so it’s no wonder that I’ve faced a lot of challenges. Almost all of the equipment has failed at least once, which has been really frustrating for me. I was also dissatisfied with the lights. I started with Pacific Sun Triton LED lights and the coral growth and colours were not what I expected. After I switched to just T5 lights the reef really started to shine.

Purple tang.

PFK: You have a beautiful mix of corals from soft to SPS. What’s the key to keeping them all happy despite their different demands? RM: I think it is key to start with easy corals and let the reef do its work. I formed large groups of the best growing corals and waited patiently. I think a lot of reefkeepers buy too many types of corals too soon — rather like they are collecting stamps. I am lucky to have a big aquarium and a lot of spaces between the corals, so they won’t interfere with one another too much. PFK: Are you completely happy with the aquascape or are you always looking for improvement? RM: I am happy with the aquascape right now. But I know that with the fast coral growth that I have, I will have to frag soon. Less is more in this beautiful open aquascape to keep the tangs happy and healthy. PFK: What’s the biggest lesson this tank has taught you? RM: Don’t trust your equipment too much and check a lot! I also got myself a lot of help by hiring Martin van ter Meij every two weeks for maintenance. He checks everything and does a 400 l water change. This ensures that on the occasions when I’m too busy, the reef remains well maintained.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

27

Reader visit The Flagfin angel is one of Ralph’s favourite fish.

I think it’s key to start with easy corals and let the reef do its work. A lot of reefkeepers buy too many types of corals too soon — rather like they are collecting stamps.

What’s in Ralph’s reef?

Ralph’s set-up

FISH O Nine Yellow tangs, Zebrasoma flavescens O Two Purple tangs, Zebrasoma xanthurum O Flagfin angelfish, Apolemichthys trimaculatus O Seven Common clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris O Two Mandarins, Synchiropus splendidus O Two Squarespot anthias, Pseudanthias pleurotania O Radiant wrasse, Halichoeres iridis O Jewelled leopard wrasse, Macropharyngodon lapillus O African pygmy angelfish, Centropyge acanthops O Flame angelfish, Centropyge loricula O Two Watanabei angelfish, Genicanthus watanabei O Three Blue green chromis, Chromis viridis

OAquarium size: 3.10 x 1.00 x 0.75m; 2300 l volume. OLighting: 36 x 39W HO T5 Gieseman Corallight ‘new generation’ + Aquablue, 15 hours. OCirculation: 70,000 lph. OSump size: 300 l. OProtein skimmer: Bubble King 300 Supermarin. OAdditives/media: Calcium reactor, magnesium supplement, carbon and phosphate removal. OWater changes and salt used: 400 l every two weeks, using Reef Crystals salt. ODecor: Started with ‘dead rocks’. OSubstrate: Coral sand. OParameters: NO3 0.1ppm, PO4 0.12ppm, Mg 1320.

Ralph switched back to T5s from LED lighting.

CORALS O Stylophora pistillata O Acropora blue O Acropora neon green O Entacmaea quadricolor O Seriatopora hystrix: pink and yellow O Montipora plates: green, red, yellow, purple O Montipora digitata: white, red, yellow O Mushroom leather coral: White and green polyps O Green Nepthea leather coral O Maze brain coral O Plexaurella dichotoma (gorgonian) MORE INFO: www.facebook.com/ralphsreef or @ralphsreef on Instagram Tank build by Peter van Wieringen, www.aqualuxury.nl www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

The aquarium houses a total of eleven tangs.

28

TANKCOMMUNITY The place to share your fish, tanks, letters and photos One of Beth Marsden’s two rescue Corydoras.

FORUM

+

STAR letter

Find the popular fishkeeping forum at http://forum.practical fishkeeping.co.uk.

Whyismytankstill cloudy? KrisMeredith I have just put sand in my tropical aquarium. I washed it like there was no tomorrow...but it’s still cloudy in the tank! Any suggestions?

JessicaMacRae Have you got any filter wool? Lots of water changes will help.

KrisMeredith Yes — I have filter wool. What should I do with it?

JessicaMacRae Put as much as you can into your filter — it will help collect fine particles.

MarkRaw This happens from time to time and is really nothing to worry about — no matter how much you wash sand there are always dust like particles left but they will settle or get filtered out over time. Is the tank a new set-up?

Tale of two corys This photo shows one of two beautiful Peppered Corydoras that I have had for six years now — two sisters. They were rescued when 1cm long (along with 30+ others) from a tank with a film of ice across the top of 2in of water, which had been dumped in a back garden in Liverpool when I was a student

at University. The fantastic owners of Smithdown Aquarium in Liverpool took in all the babies and I took two home — and they are wonderful, healthy, stunning fish — who probably due to their upbringing, do fantastically in an unheated tank! They have lived in three different tanks and are now in a small

The writer of each star letter will win a 250ml pot of their choice from this quality range of food, which uses natural ingredients. Email: editorial@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

OCongos worth the

Yes, it’s new. I’ll give it a day or two then thanks.

wait

Congo tetra, Phenacogrammus interruptus, especially young fish, can look a little dull and unimpressive in bright shop tanks, but given time and correct care they just keep getting better with age. These fish belong to Jacob Annison.

MarkRaw

Antony Swindale Wait for a day or two and it should clear on its own.

JOINTHEPFKCOMMUNITY

There are five different ways to get in touch with Practical Fishkeeping: Tweet, like us on Facebook, drop us an email, join the forum or simply send a good old-fashioned letter:

 editorial@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

30

BETH MARSDEN, GRIMSBY

Win FishScience aquarium food

KrisMeredith

I asked because you may be having a bacterial bloom in the water which can give a milky clouding. It’s quite normal and harmless and will go in a week or so but doing water changes in this situation can make things worse.

community set-up with six danios, two of whom are now blind and a bit grumpy at seven years old! I’ve been buying the magazine ever since, and despite having five tanks of fish now, I ALWAYS keep a look out for articles about little Corydoras.

facebook.com. Search Practical Fishkeeping



http://forum.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk twitter.com/PFKmagazine Practical Fishkeeping, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

TANKCOMMUNITY FROM FACEBOOK

ALAMY

Responses to our question ‘How much and how often do you do water changes?’

Are you a weekly or a fortnightly fishkeeper? Jason Beard: 30to50%once

aweek. Matt Branch: 20%weekly,

externalfiltermonthly.Just seemstowork.Morecan disruptthechemistry,less andyougetbuildupofcr*p andalgae. Tim Caldwell: None. Matthew Ellam: 90%every otherweek. Richard Neave: 50%weekly. Chanelle Irish: 50%,Ithink routineisimportantforthe fishsoalwaysweekly. Paul Jones: Whatarewater changes? Paul McNaughton: Ido 25%everytwoweeks.The nitratesoutthetaparepretty highinthisarea.Ifit’sleft longerthenitratesgetreally highandthefishstarttoget healthissues. Michael Rice: 10%weekly. Paddy Flint: 40–50%weekly. Irufflethesubstrateabitand removeoldplantlitter.Iclean thefiltereveryeightweeksor so,dependingonload. Su Delve: Wetake6-8 bucketsoutofourbig330l tankevery7–10days,andtwo bucketsoutofthesmaller tankaboutfortnightly.Wedo itwheneverthebottomneeds hooveringandtheglassneeds cleaning,anditseemstowork outprettyregular. Darren Paul: Waterchange andfiltercleanonceayear. Oliver Pate: 50%weeklyasa minimum. Mike PA Calnun: Weekly, usinga30%ROandfiltered rainwatermix.Ineedtokeep TDSaslowaspossiblefor manyofmydwarfcichlids.I don’treallyunderstandwhy somanyseem‘anti’water changes.Itcanonlybeagood thingright?

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

OA welcome return

Andrew Williams is returning to the hobby after a 12-year long absence and has made a great start with this bright, smart looking tank. Stock includes Black neon and Glowlight tetras as well as Albino corys.

OYou’d have 2B mad not to

love these Pencils!

Pencilfish seem to often get overlooked when it comes to choosing attractive, small, softwater South American fish. With an adult size of just 25mm, Dwarf pencilfish, Nannostomus marginatus, are the perfect smaller tank resident as seen here in Alex Bell’s photo.

Where are the women? First of all, I wanted to say a massive thank you to all PFK staff — I’ve been living on a steady back-issue diet of the magazine for the past two months in the lead up to my dream tank which arrived last week. The incredible knowledge passed down in truly awesome easy to understand fashion has been just utterly invaluable to me. Those writers will never know how incredibly grateful I am. However, while pouring over the past few years’ issues I noticed something. Where are the women? There have been quite a few in the Me & My Tank features but that seems to be very much the only place we see them. Is the whole industry really that guy-heavy? If so, any idea why? Is it the ‘techy’ side that keeps us ladyfolk away? Is there a way to bring more of us into the hobby, do you think? Or is it a case of the guys are louder, more out there? It seems more gender equal in the online forums. Please could you also pass an extra thanks to your photographers? They’ve really inspired me to

try and improve my macro fish/tank life photography by pushing myself. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts. Now to continue with April 2017...

MAGGIE GALBRAITH, EMAIL Editor, Karen Youngs, says: There are certainly more women in the hobby than when I first started keeping fish 30-odd years ago. Back then if I walked into an aquatic shop and asked a question, the usual response was for the staff to give me the answer while looking at my husband, as though I’d either asked the question on his behalf or wouldn’t possibly be able to understand their reply! But our research suggests that we still have more male readers than women — and they definitely outnumber the girls at all the events I’ve been to. We’d love to see more women featured in PFK — we know they’re out there, judging by the members of the PFK Chat Room and Facebook pages. So, come on, girls — if you have a set-up you’re proud of, get in touch!

31

U

OGo wild for real Angels

Although there are dozens of domesticated Angelfish varieties, it’s hard to beat the wild fish for striking beauty as seen in this Pterophyllum scalare ‘Manacapuru’ owned by Phillip Mackie.

CONTACT US Address: Practical Fishkeeping, Bauer Media, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA Email: [email protected] If you or someone you know are aged between 16 and 24 and are interested in work experience opportunities at Practical Fishkeeping go to www.gothinkbig.co.uk

EDITORIAL Phone 01733 468000 Editor Karen Youngs Features Editor Nathan Hill Art Editor Katie Wilkinson Editorial Assistant Nicki Manning

ADVERTISING Phone 01733 468000 Key Accounts Stephen Tanner Display Advertising Executive James Belding MARKETING Phone 01733 468329 Brand Manager Lynne Fairburn Direct Marketing Julie Spires Head of Newstrade Marketing Leon Benoiton Deputy Newstrade Marketing Manager Samantha Tomblin

PRODUCTION Phone 01733 468000 Print Production Manager Richard Woolley Advertising Production Nicholas Greenwood Printed by Wyndeham Group in the UK Distributed by Frontline SUBSCRIPTIONS AND BACK ISSUES To ensure that you don’t miss an issue and for the best subscription offers visit www.greatmagazines.co.uk For subscription or back issue queries please contact CDS Global on Bauer@ subscription.co.uk Phone from the UK on 01858 438884. Phone from overseas on +44 (0)1858 438884

BAUER CONSUMER MEDIA Managing Director - Hobbies Nicola Bates Editorial Director June Smith-Sheppard Head of Digital Charlie Calton-Watson Group Direct Marketing Director Chris Gadsby Finance Director Lisa Hayden Group Finance Director Sarah Vickery Group Managing Director Rob Munro-Hall CEO Paul Keenan Practical Fishkeeping magazine is published 13 times a year by Bauer Consumer Media Ltd, which is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 01176085, registered address Media House, Peterborough Business Park, Lynch Wood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA. No part of the magazine may be reproduced in any form in whole or in part, without the prior permission of Bauer. All material published remains the copyright of Bauer, and we reserve the right to copy or edit any material submitted to the magazine without further consent. The submission of material (manuscripts or images etc.) to Bauer Media whether unsolicited or requested, is taken as permission to publish that material in the magazine, on the associated website, any apps or social media pages affiliated to the magazine, and any editions of the magazine published by our licensees elsewhere in the world. By submitting any material to us you are confirming that the material is your own original work or that you have permission from the copyright owner to use the material and to authorise Bauer to use it as described in this paragraph. You also promise that you have permission from anyone featured or referred to in the submitted material to it being used by Bauer. If Bauer receives a claim from a copyright owner or a person featured in any material you have sent us, we will inform that person that you have granted us permission to use the relevant material and you will be responsible for paying any amounts due to the copyright owner or featured person and/ or for reimbursing Bauer for any losses it has suffered as a result. We accept no responsibility for unsolicited material which is lost or damaged in the post and we do not promise that we will be able to return any material to you. Finally, whilst we try to ensure accuracy of your material when we publish it, we cannot promise to do so. We do not accept any responsibility for any loss or damage, however caused, resulting from use of the material as described in this paragraph. COMPLAINTS: Bauer Consumer Media Limited is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (www.ipso.co.uk) and endeavours to respond to and resolve your concerns quickly. Our Editorial Complaints Policy (including full details of how to contact us about editorial complaints and IPSO’s contact details) can be found at www. bauermediacomplaints.co.uk. Our e mail address for editorial complaints covered by the Editorial Complaints Policy is complaints@bauermedia. co.uk.

OStunning Stendker

Breeders have brought a huge variety of colour into the Discus hobby in the past few decades and the German breeder Jorg Stendker is responsible for many of these stunning fish in John Allder’s tank.

32

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Advertisement feature

Introducing

AQUARIUMfromRESCUE All Pond Solutions Keep your aquarium, water and fish in top condition with this new range of treatments. Readers’ poll

2017

E

nsuring your aquarium water stays well balanced and maintained is vital for the health and happiness of your fish and other livestock. Whether you are setting up a new fish tank, or carrying out your weekly water change, the new Aquarium Rescue® treatment range from leading aquatics retailer All Pond Solutions offers safe and effective treatment for tropical, marine and coldwater aquariums. ³ AQUARIUM RESCUE ALGAE CONTROL Available in 100 and 250ml. Prices from £5.49 Apart from looking unsightly, the deoxygenation of water caused by algae will have a detrimental effect on your tank’s inhabitants. Aquarium Rescue Algae Control is a proven formula designed to control and successfully eliminate green, brown and blue algae in your aquarium, as well as prevent green slime forming on glass, ornaments, rocks and plants. ³ AQUARIUM RESCUE SNAIL CONTROL Available in 100ml. Priced at £5.49 Snails often come into the aquarium with aquatic plants, and once established can rapidly multiply. Aquarium Rescue Snail Control is an advanced treatment for the quick and effective removal of snails and other pests like Hydra from your aquarium. It is harmless to fish and plants. ³ AQUARIUM RESCUE SLUDGE CONTROL Available in 250ml. Priced at £7.49 Sludge build-up not only looks unsightly, but creates unhealthy water conditions for your livestock. Aquarium Rescue Sludge Control is an effective and fast-acting treatment that reduces the fish waste, sedimentation, and pollution that can lead to aquarium sludge, and will help keep your aquarium clean, clear and healthy. www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

³ AQUARIUMRESCUEPARASITE&WHITESPOTCONTROL Available in 100ml. Priced at £5.49 It’s distressing to see fish struggling with breathing and irritation when infected with a parasite. Aquarium Rescue Parasite & White Spot Control is a powerful and fast-acting water treatment that safely disinfects and removes aquatic parasites from your aquarium water with just one application. ³ AQUARIUM RESCUE DECHLORINATOR Available in 100/250/500ml. Priced from £5.49 Aquarium Rescue Dechlorinator safely and quickly conditions tapwater by removing chlorine compounds and chloramines, and contains additives to help stabilise aquarium water and prevent nitrite poisoning. It’s the perfect water treatment to protect delicate fish membranes and provide a balanced, healthy tank environment. ³ AQUARIUM RESCUE BACTERIA & FUNGUS CONTROL Available in 100 / 250ml. Prices from £5.49 Aquarium Rescue Bacteria & Fungus Control is a fast-acting and effective disinfectant water treatment for all fungal and bacterial water problems, including finrot, ulcers, cotton wool growth and cloudy eyes. ³ AQUARIUM RESCUE BACTERIA BALLS Available in 280ml. Priced at £6.99 Aquarium Rescue Bacteria Balls are ideal for maturing a new filter when starting up an aquarium, or as an easy way to keep the water clean and clear. These balls are packed with millions of healthy bacteria and enzymes to help combat harmful nitrite and ammonia levels and keep your water healthy and crystal clear. For more information on the Aquarium Rescue® range, visit www. allpondsolutions.co.uk

33

TANKCOMMUNITY

Me & my

TANK

G Fishkeeper:

Gavin Little. G Age: 29. G Occupation:

Sales advisor for O2. G Whereabouts: Penrith, Cumbria. G Time in the hobby: 17 years. G Number of tanks: Three. One 700 l set-up, plus a 250 l and a 70 l. I also have a pond.

What attracted you to the hobby? From an early age I was fascinated by aquatic life, but when I started secondary school I got the opportunity to go and work at my uncle’s aquatic shop, North Lakes Aquatics, at weekends to earn a bit of pocket money. My uncle, Sid Boulter, will be known to a lot of PFK readers and is renowned in the fishkeeping world for his endless knowledge of the hobby, especially catfish.

How would you describe your tanks? A fish paradise for the fish that I have; all my tanks are bespoke for each fish species I keep. For instance, my largest tank is heavily planted with wood and has low lighting, to suit the L-number plecs and Peters’ elephantnoses that live in there. My pond is a memorial to my mother, who loved the sound of running water and enjoyed sitting and watching wildlife. She loved the patterns you can get on Koi, so I’ve stocked the pond with these.

Gavin’s large aquarium houses a group of ten elephantnoses.

My current fish G Blue-eye plec, Panaque cochliodon G Papa Panaque (L090), Panaque bathyphilus G Sunshine plec (L14), Scobinancistrus aureatus G Watermelon plec (L330), Panaque cf. nigrolineatus G Zebra plec (L46), Hypancistrus zebra G Scarlet plec (L025), Pseudacanthicus sp. G Titanic plec (L273), Pseudacanthicus sp. G Orinoco angel plec (L201), Hypancistrus sp. G Golden cloud plec (L048), Scobinancistrus cf. pariolispos G King tiger plec (L066), Hypancistrus sp. G Shampupa royal plec (L418), Panaque titan G Gold-line royal plec (L027c), Panaque cf. nigrolineatus G Royal Panaque (L191), Panaque sp. G Blue phantom plec (L128), Hemiancistrus sp.

PHOTOGRAPHY: GAVIN LITTLE UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

What’s your favourite fish? Royal Panaque. Against a lighter background their striking black lines just ooze class and elegance, and I can’t help but say ‘wow’ whenever I see one. They’re the Rolls Royce of the L-numbers. But my pride and joy has to be my big Blue-eye Panaque — highly sought-after by L-number collectors and very difficult to get your hands on.

What’s the most challenging fish you have kept? This has to be the Peters’ elephantnose fish. It is highly sensitive to water quality and can also be aggressive towards members of its own species, so it’s all about getting the balance right. After many years of keeping this fish, I have finally got a group of ten as my feature fish in the large tank, but there have been a lot of late nights and plenty of perseverance involved!

34

Gavin is a big fan of the Royals.

G Green phantom plec (L200), Hemiancistrus subviridis G Chocolate Zebra plec (L270), Hypancistrus sp. G False Zebra plec (L173b), Hypancistrus sp. G Flash plec (L204), Panaqolus albivermis G Gold nugget plec (L18), Baryancistrus xanthellus G Red finned leopard plec (L114), Pseudacanthicus cf. leopardus G Sultan plec (L264), Leporacanthicus joselimai G Candy stripe plec (L15), Peckoltia vittata G Rusty plec (L310), Hypostomus cochliodon G Peters’ elephantnose fish, Gnathonemus petersii G Clown loach, Chromobotia macracanthus G Giraffe catfish, Auchenoglanis occidentalis G Network cory, Corydoras reticulatus G Corydoras sterbai G Slate cory, Corydoras concolor G Panda cory, Corydoras panda G Adolfo’s cory, Corydoras adolfoi G Black cory, Corydoras schultzei G Corydoras duplicareus G Peppered cory, Corydoras paleatus G Dwarf neon rainbowfish, Melanotaenia praecox G Melanotaenia boesemani G Red rainbowfish, Glossolepis incisus G ‘Boris’ the Figure eight puffer, Tetraodon biocellatus G False cuckoo catfish, Synodontis petricola

And the easiest? Rainbowfish and Torpedo barbs, along with my Corydoras; they look after themselves and the tank. It’s all about keeping your fish happy, getting their habitat right and keeping stress levels to a minimum.

Do you have a favourite plant? Anubias and other plants that will root onto wood. PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

You have to be able to keep water before you can keep fish. Plecs are not for cleaning tanks and they do not just eat algae. If you need a fish to clean your tank then you should question if you are in the right hobby. Patience is a virtue: good things come to those who wait. Do your homework and don’t be too proud to ask for advice. You will have ‘downs’ in this hobby, but don’t look at them

as negatives; learn from them and pass on your knowledge. Filtration is key! Save money: Build your own aquarium stands if you have the ability to do so. The stand for my large tank cost about £90 to build and can take twice the weight that is actually sitting on it, but the stand that came with the tank would have cost me around £500! Things I wish I’d known: How expensive some of the L-numbers would get due to things like import restrictions!

Elephantnoses are highly sensitive to water quality issues.

My wish list...

NEIL HEPWORTH

My top tips for newcomers to the hobby

Leopoldi stingray.

What fish would you like to keep?

L-number plecs feature heavily in Gavin’s tanks.

I have been lucky enough to have worked in a well-run, established aquatic shop that has sourced some of the weird and wonderful species from around the world. This means I have been able to try my hand at all angles of fishkeeping. Although I don’t have a wish-list as such, I would still like to try keeping a Black diamond stingray, Potamotrygon leopoldi, or a Super red Arowana, Scleropages formosus.

What would be your dream aquarium? I already have it! I always wanted a tank that looks like the one I have — as though I’ve cut a section out of a river and placed it into my living room. I think with my large tank I have finally achieved this. I may upgrade to a 10ft tank, which would give me even more room to play with. That’s the beauty of the hobby: you see an image in your head and then you can create it.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Super red Arowana.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

35

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESSCOM

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

Cyprichromis leptosoma ‘Bulu Point’

C. leptosoma ‘Chisanza’.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESSCOM

C. leptosoma ‘Chisanza’.

No, not the kind you buy in tomato sauce! These sardines are the gorgeous Cyprichromis, from Tanganyika. Every Rift Valley fan should keep them at least once… WORDS: JEREMY GAY

AQUARIUM PHOTO .DK

36

C. microlepidotus.

C. leptosoma ‘Nangu’.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

NEIL HEPWORTH

C. sp. ‘Jumbo’.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

C. microlepidotus.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

C. leptosoma.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESSCOM

C. leptosoma ‘Malasa’.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

C. leptosoma ‘Karilani’.

L

C. leptosoma ‘Mpulungu’.

C. leptosoma ‘Kapembwa’.

C. microlepidotus.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

C. pavo.

C. leptosoma ‘Malasa’.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

C. leptosoma ‘Utinta’.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

C. leptosoma ‘Kétésé’.

ake Tanganyika is full of cichlid varieties of all shapes and sizes, but the contenders for the least cichlid-like of them all in terms of both looks and behaviour must be the Cyprichromis. These open-water swimmers are often referred to as Sardine cichlids, and it’s a moniker which describes these slender fish rather well. Lake Tanganyika endemics, Sardine cichlids congregate in huge shoals in open water, where they feed on zooplankton. Shoals may be thousands strong, offering security in numbers when faced with the constant onslaught from predatory birds, predatory cichlids and man. Females, juveniles and non-breeding males are plain (in order to disguise their outlines in the abyss) but sexually-active males sport bright blues and yellows on their fins and tails in order to court females. Cyprichromis are maternal mouthbrooders — no big surprise there considering the African rift lake they live in. But what is unusual is the way in which they spawn compared to other mouthbrooders. Typically, female mouthbrooders lower themselves onto rocks or substrate, before dropping the eggs and then swiftly picking them up in their mouths. In the case of Cyprichromis, however, because they live and spawn within the water column, they don’t use the substrate for spawning. The large eggs are dropped one at a time into the water by the female, after she has snapped at the male’s quivering anal fins to take in his milt. The females then back up and spiral downwards, snapping up each egg as it is ejected. This same spawning behaviour can be seen in an aquarium if you are lucky, but the real draw with these fish has to be the spectacular colouration of the males.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

C. leptosoma.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

Cichlids

37

Three species of Cyprichromis are recognised: C. leptosoma, pavo and microlepidotus. However, there are many geographical variations of each, and a few undescribed species too. Of the above, the first species that I kept, Cyprichromis leptosoma, is my favourite, and males may have either blue or yellow tails. These are probably the most widely available in the shops too, followed by C. leptosoma ‘Jumbo’, which can come with yellow tails, blue tails, all-yellow fins, all-blue fins, or even all-blue or all-yellow bodies! What’s more, several Cyprichromis species will swim and feed together and even breed next to one another in the lake, so how natural hybridisation doesn’t occur, and how females can choose the right male of their species when even they are sporting differing colours, I have no idea.

Cyprichromis microlepidotus.

The breeding behaviour of the males is fascinating. Being open-water fish with no hard surfaces to defend, Cyprichromis form a mid-water, three-dimensional territory which they defend on all sides from rivals. Sexually-active males space themselves out into territories measuring one cubic metre, where they hold their place in the water column, display and entice females into their space. We don’t get to see this in the aquarium, of course; at best we cram several males into tanks which may offer just one quarter of that three-dimensiona volume. If only a public aquarium would one day offer over one of its ten-metre deep, one million-litre display tanks to the fishes of Lake Tanganyika: we could then get to see this incredible spawning

SARDINE CICHLID G Scientific name: Cyprichromis spp. G Origin: East Africa, Lake Tanganyika endemic. G Size: Males up to 12cm, depending o species. Females smaller. G Tank size: 120cm x 60cm tall minimum. G Water requirements: Hard and alkaline; 8.2–8.5pH. G Temperature: 24–26°C. G Feeding: Meaty invertebrate foods such as brine shrimp, Mysis and Krill. Females don’t eat while carrying eggs and fry. G Availability and cost: Usually available from cichlid specialists; expect to pay £12 or more per fish — and you’ll ideally need at least ten.

AQUARIUMPHOTO.DK

Three-dimensional territory

TOP TIP

You will be able tell Cyprichromis leptosoma from sp. ‘Jumbo’ in the shop (take a reference book) but even an expert will struggle to pick out regional variants in mixed groups. Buy from a cichlid specialist who receives them in separate batches, and keeps them that way, so when you breed them and pass them on you can tell the recipient exactly what they are.

Tank volume 0

Temp C 9 8 7 6 5

38

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

400 l+ AQUARIUMPHOTO.DK

pH

Cyprichromis leptosoma. PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Cichlids behaviour without having to learn to dive and then travel to East Africa...

Tank set-up

AD KONINGS

Being open water fish, with no hard surfaces to defend, Cyprichromis form a midwater three-dimensional territory which they defend on all sides from rival males.

So, open-water space is critical when keeping sardine cichlids, especially if you want to see hints of that natural behaviour. Fully-grown at 12cm in the largest species, Cyprichromis require an aquarium of at least 120cm in length, and they should be kept in shoals — ideally of ten or more individuals. Rocks are not necessary, although some rockwork helps to create the illusion of the Tanganyika lake habitat, and authentic-looking rocky background inserts can look particularly effective. Lighting should be subdued. Males will display brighter colours under a less intense illumination, and I prefer to have marine spectrum lighting over my Tanganyika tanks to add a deep water illusion. Adequate mechanical and biological filtration is needed, and an external canister filter is best, plus some carbon to keep the water looking clean. Cyprichromis don’t mind flow. Due to its size, Lake Tanganyika behaves like an inland sea, and currents can be considerable. Keep aeration high at all times, so either fit a venturi to the filter outlet or add an airstone — Tanganyikan cichlids won’t tolerate low oxygen levels. Water temperature should be 24–26°C and hard and alkaline at all times, ideally at 8.2–8.5pH. In soft-water areas, buffering materials like dolomite, oyster shells and limestone will help to keep the water hard, and Lake Tanganyika ‘salts’ can be bought and added to your replacement water at water-change time. It is always tempting to add plants to bare or rocky Tanganyikan tanks, but it isn’t biotope correct, and Cyprichromis neither want nor need them — heavy planting would get in the way of their displaying behaviour.

Cyprichromis microlepidotus, Milima Island.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

39

Cyprichromis sp. ‘Leptosoma jumbo’, Nkondwe Island.

40

TOP TIP

While it won’t be cheap, ideally you need to keep these fish in groups, and it could be argued that captive welfare would be improved by keeping these fish in numbers, as much as it would when keeping tetras together.

AD KONINGS

NEIL HEPWORTH AD KONINGS

In their natural habitat, these fish shoal in their thousands, so it should come as no suprise that they do best in larger groups in the aquarium.

Cyprichromis leptosoma — note the mouthbrooding female at the top.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Keep as few as one male and two females, and when mature, they will breed. The female’s buccal cavity (throat) will distend as soon as she takes in eggs, and will clearly be visible. The fry are huge, up to 15-20mm, when spat out, so expect the numbers to be small. They will be able to feed on zooplankton immediately. You won’t need to intervene unless you are concerned about predation of fry in the main tank. Skilled hands can ‘strip’ a female of either unhatched eggs or developed fry, and keepers these days have the benefit of being able to purchase egg tumblers, like those from ZISS Aqua. These are ready-made protective Perspex boxes which use water flow to spin eggs or fry, oxygenating them as if they were in their mother’s mouth.

G TANK MATES FOR CYPRICHROMIS

Altolamprologus calvus and compressiceps will work particularly well alongside your sardine cichlids.

Sand-dwelling Xenotilapia make good tank mates for these open-water, shoaling fish.

In a large and deep enough set-up you could keep Cyprichromis alongside Julidochromis, but ensure that the open water area is sufficiently far above the rock-dwelling ‘julies’ to avoid conflict over territory. Sardine cichlids are easily bullied.

The babies are quite big by the time the mouthbrooding female releases them.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

41

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

Breeding

PFKrecommends

NEIL HEPWORTH

aquariums that is. Large Cyprichromis with small to medium Frontosa would be fine — just avoid extremes in size difference. Steer clear of Tropheus, which inhabit shallow, rocky areas in the lake and are too territorial. More important is the vegetarian diet Tropheus require, which is in direct contrast to the small meaty invertebrate foods that Cyprichromis need. Avoid small tanks and aggressive tank mates. I added Cyprichromis to a 30in tank with lots of established Neolamprologus many years ago. My newly-added leptosoma were not received well by the resident fish, which had already formed territories. The tank was aquascaped heavily with rocks and there was nowhere for the Cyprichromis to go that wasn’t ‘owned’ by someone else.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

With a group of ten fish I would aim for three males and seven females. If you are lucky enough to be able to house 20 fish, and they are easily bred, the male to female ratio can rise to 50:50. While my usual advice would be never to mix Cyprichromis species due to the risk of hybridisation, they manage to coexist in the same shoals in the wild without doing it, so it’s up to you — just ensure you have both sexes available of whatever species you go for. In large tanks, the more Cyprichromis individuals, the merrier. Fiery males will chase each other and make physical contact as they mouth each other’s flanks. This may result in the odd split fin, but you won’t end up with males being beaten to death, as you might with Lake Malawi mbuna cichlids. I would certainly go for a Lake Tanganyika biotope tank every time when selecting tank mates for Cyprichromis. Altolamprologus calvus and compressiceps work particularly well, and will benefit from the regular brine shrimp, Mysis and Krill frozen foods that you could offer the sardines. For other lamprologines like Julidochromis and shell dwellers, the tank would have to be sufficiently large, and the open water area sufficiently far away from rock or shell territories for the Cyprichromis to avoid being snapped up, and to be allowed to do their own displaying unhindered. Sanddwelling Xenotilapia make good tank mates. Frontosa are said to predate Cyprichromis at night in the lake, although after keeping many Frontosa, I find them the least predatory of predatory cichlids — at least in

SHUTTERSTOCK

Tank mates

A soft spot for

STRIPES The Zebra plec is one of the most iconic freshwater fish in the hobby. Johnny Jensen puts together an ideal home for these lovely catfish, in the hope they will eventually breed.

ALAMY

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHNNY JENSEN, AQUARIUMPHOTO.DK

42

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Favourite fish

I

The Zebra plec has a place on many a fishkeeper’s wish list. www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

know I’m not the only one who is fascinated by the Zebra plec — extremely beautiful, expensive… and soon to be extinct in the wild, due to the effects of the Belo Monte dam on its natural habitat in Brazil. I recently decided to set up an aquarium with an aquascape that best suits the needs of these stunning fish. I wanted to create a semi-natural space for the Zebras that provided something nice to look at and, last but not least, I wanted a great looking environment to photograph them in. I took inspiration from images of the River Xingu, shown to me by my friend and co-worker at Blue Planet Aquarium, Peter Petersen. These pictures and videos showed me exactly what the river bottom topography looks like in the Zebra’s natural habitat. However, as interesting it was to see underwater footage from the Xingu, aquascaping my tank to replicate the environment exactly would be pretty difficult and, ultimately, fairly boring. So, I kept in mind that Zebra plecs prefer

dark crevices, fast moving water, plenty of oxygen, and soft water with a high temperature, and then planned the aquascape using those guidelines. I placed the tank just under a window. I like the natural light in the tank very much, but as the plecs prefer some dark areas, I covered the back of the tank up to about 2.5cm/1in from the top, meaning most of the rocks are left in relative darkness. For the best water quality, I change half the water at least once a week; using 50:50 reverse osmosis water and tapwater. I keep the temperature between 28–30°C. I feed the fish daily with Tetra Discus granular food, and once a week with some frozen foods. I have the tank right next to my home office work space, and initially I thought maybe the plecs wouldn’t show themselves much because of my presence, but those worries have been firmly put to rest. Of course, they tend to stay near their covered caves, but they are active and visible almost all the time, even though I move about right in front of them.

43

Zebra plecs require a meaty diet — they are certainly not herbivores.

’Scaping the aquarium

I packed the rocks together, sloping along the direction of the water flow, so there would be as much current as possible in the spaces between the rocks. I positioned the rocks on top of six plec caves, which sat on top of a couple of layers of slate.

1

Did

?

you know

The Zebra plecs you see on sale now are all likely to be captive bred. Hypancistrus zebra was given Appendix III CITES protection last year in an effort to curtail smuggling of wild-collected specimens. This means that any H. zebra leaving Brazil will have to come with a stateapproved export permit — and this is unlikely under the current conditions.

AQUARIUM SETUP

G Tank: All-glass aquarium, 60 x 30 x 25cm; 45 l/10 gal. G Decor: Mini Landscape rocks and slate, plus six pleco caves. G Plants: Java fern, Microsorum pteropus ‘Narrow.’ G Filter: Eheim Liberty 200, 760 lph, rated for a 200 l tank. G Heater: Cobalt Aquatics EasyTherm submersible heater.

Ensure that with all the water movement, the food actually gets to your fish. Clever aquascaping will allow areas for food to collect around rocks and caves.

I used sand of varying sizes for the foreground and bottom material. The slate layers help the Zebras to easily ‘sweep’ the sand away from the caves, which is apparently what they prefer.

2

I added the Java fern on top of the rocks, where they seem to thrive. I know there isn’t much plant life in the Xingu where the plecs live — and if there was, it certainly wouldn’t be Java ferns — but the plants are there for my own pleasure.

3

44

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Favourite fish ZEBRA PLEC, LO46

PFK recommends

G Scientific name: Hypancistrus zebra. G Size: 8cm/3.2in. G Origin: Rio Xingu, Brazil. G Aquarium size: Ideally 60 x 30cm footprint for a group. Height is less important. G Water requirements: Slightly acidic, soft water replicates the natural habitat best, but this species has also been found to do well and even breed in harder, more alkaline conditions. The important factors are that the water needs to be high in oxygen and warm. Aim for 6–7.5pH; hardness ideally <15°H. G Temperature: 28–30°C. G Feeding: A meaty diet is required — bloodworm, prawns, brine shrimp and sinking and granular Discus foods will all be enjoyed. G Availability and cost: Becoming increasingly captive bred, so available in more specialist shops. Expect to pay £100 or more each…

Johnny keeps his Zebra plecs with Cherry shrimp, Neocaridina davidi — in his case it’s the ‘Sakura red’ variety. Most species of Neocaridina do best in medium to hard water, with 6.5–8pH and a temperature of 20-27°C.

0

pH

Temp C 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

5

45 l+

TOP TIP

The wide water chemistry tolerance of his Zebra plecs means that Johnny can keep them with Endler’s livebearers, Poecilia wingei. These lovely little fish will be happy at 7–8.5pH and are fine at warmer temperatures. They are very peaceful and in no danger from the bottom dwelling catfish.

Provide more caves than plecs so that a choice is available. This will cut down squabbling over the best caves.

PETER PETERSEN

Zebra plec in its natural habitat.

Plenty of flow is appreciated by these little fish. www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

45

ALAMY

Clownfish are the obvious choices of tank mates for carpets — they also tend to be safer than other fish from these aggressive anemones.

46

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Marine

Magic carpets

The carpet anemones are among the most beautiful and imposing invertebrates you’ll see. As an impulse purchase, they can be a terrible choice, but in the right set-up a carpet anemone makes an amazing centrepiece. WORDS: DAVE WOLFENDEN

I

t’s easy to see how carpet anemones get their name, thanks to their wide oral discs and densely packed, stubby tentacles that give them a distinct ‘shag pile’ appearance. There’s no doubt that these are stunning anemones. But their aggressive nature and sheer size mean that they need to be considered as part of a dedicated system with carefullychosen tank mates. In the wrong set-up they could prove to be a disaster, but if you can create a suitable habitat for carpet anemones, they really are incredible. With a few exceptions, anemones in general don’t tend to fare well in a typical reef system; they really do best in a set-up based around their exacting needs. Large carpet anemones epitomise the need for this approach, and they’re often not strictly found on the reef itself, being found on the reef edge or among mangroves.

Choosing your carpet Carpet anemones belong to the genus Stichodactyla. There are six species in the genus, all but one of which reach large sizes. Of these, just two are seen in the trade with any regularity: the Giant carpet anemone, S. gigantea, and Haddon’s anemone, S. haddoni, both of which come from the Indo-Pacific. These anemones are often misidentified, so it’s best to give any prospective purchase a once-over before buying. S. gigantea tends to have a more convoluted, folded appearance and less ‘stubby’ tentacles than S. haddoni (and the tentacles of S. haddoni are noticeably stickier). There tends to be a pronounced area around the mouth of S. gigantea which lacks tentacles — on S. haddoni, the entire upper surface of the anemone is covered with tentacles, bar a region of 1cm or so around the oral disc. www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

Finally, the pedal column of S. haddoni is relatively wide in comparison to that of S. gigantea. Stichodactyla gigantea can reach a diameter of nearly one metre, making it obviously unsuitable for anything other than very large systems. In the wild, this species is found in extremely shallow water, often in tide pools where it can be exposed at low tide. It tends to be found in shallow pockets of sand within rocky microhabitats. Therefore, it needs a sand bed of a few centimetres in depth in addition to some strategically-placed rockwork to replicate its natural habitat. Brown and beige specimens are relatively inexpensive, but the more exotic forms of S. gigantea command high prices. You’re looking at perhaps several hundred pounds for some of the red morphs, but the blue, yellow, white and green forms are all still pricey. Stichodactyla haddoni reaches between 50 and 80cm in diameter. Haddon’s anemone is typically found on the reef edge in deep sand or mud, into which it can retract when it feels threatened. Therefore, a deep sandy substrate (around 20cm depth) is needed. In the aquarium, S. haddoni will attach to the tank base with its foot, the column extending through the sand. Again, the cheapest specimens tend to be a fairly drab coloration, but multiple colour morphs are available, with varying prices. The most desirable and expensive morphs tend to be vivid red in colour, although white, green and blue forms are also sought after.

Getting your new carpet home It’s obviously preferable to quarantine any livestock before introducing it to the main aquarium, but anemones pose a challenge here. Because they require

established systems, maintaining the stability they need in a Placing your carpet quarantine tank can be difficult. Essentially, you’re having to replicate the optimal, rock-solid conditions of the main aquarium in The aquarium must be able to accommodate the adult size of the a temporary tank — not an easy feat. Nevertheless, it is possible to anemone. Overall system volume is less important here than length safely house carpets in quarantine for several weeks, given suitable and width, but you are certainly looking at several hundred litres for substrate, flow and lighting. Managing water a single S. gigantea or S. hadonni. quality is key, so an established filter and/or live Carpets demand established, mature systems What’s in a name? rock are essential, along with frequent water which can provide stable conditions — any Stichodactyla is derived from changes — and avoid using freshly mixed salt fluctuations in parameters are bad news. Aim the Greek words for ‘line’ water; mature mixes are needed here. On for zero ammonia and nitrite, nitrate at less than (sticho) and ‘digit’ (dactulos). balance, many aquarists feel that the potential 5ppm and phosphate at 0.03ppm. Lighting This reflects these anemones’ stress of quarantine on large carpets outweighs should be intense for large carpet anemones, stubby, finger-like tentacles, the benefits, so they opt to introduce the animal and warmer spectrums generally provide the which frequently seem to be directly to the aquarium — it’s your call. optimal useable light. The use of higher-kelvin arranged in rows. Acclimation techniques for anemones are blue lighting is in vogue for reef aquariums, but similar to those used for corals. Specimens that it’s not the best for anemones. have had a relatively short trip of just a few hours Stichodactyla anemones require fairly brisk can be safely drip acclimated for an hour or so. Those shipped water movement to rid the animal of wastes and ensure adequate overnight should be transferred more rapidly into optimal gas exchange, but how the flow is provided is important. Avoid conditions, as gradual drip acclimation runs the risk of causing directly blasting the anemone and aim to provide chaotic, turbulent ammonia spikes. In this case, it’s much safer to equalise water movement rather than strictly laminar flow. temperature and salinity over 15 minutes or so, and introduce it to Do be aware that large carpets will move around if they’re not the tank. happy. This is one of the reasons they can be a problem for a mixed

Large carpet anemones will move around if they’re not happy…providing a suitable sandy substrate will encourage them to feel at home, and appropriately-placed rocks on the sand zone’s margins can provide enough of a barrier to prevent them from upping sticks.

ALAMY

Giant carpet anemones can reach a metre in diameter.

48

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Marine reef tank — as they wander round in search of an ideal spot, they can cause mayhem, stinging corals in their path. In the case of S. haddoni and S. gigantea, providing a suitable sandy substrate should encourage them to feel at home, and appropriately-placed rocks on the sand zone’s margins can provide enough of a barrier to prevent them from upping sticks. Introduce the anemone directly to the space you’ve prepared for it, providing full lighting to dissuade it from wandering off in search of a more brightly-lit spot. For the first few hours, dial the flow down to allow the anemone to settle without being blown around the tank. Your aquarium should be anemone-proof; a wandering anemone

Carpet burns Avoid touching carpet anemones with bare hands when acclimating and moving them. Many large carpets can deliver painful stings thanks to their potent cnidocytes (Haddon’s anemones, in particular, can pack a real punch). Touching them with bare hands can also damage the anemone’s delicate tissue. If you must handle these anemones at all, wear disposable gloves.

can easily become sucked into filter and pump inlets, so these should be inaccessible in case yours decides to take a walk.

Greedy feeders Although they harbour zooxanthellae, large carpets are greedy feeders, and you’ll need to provide food frequently — twice a week is usually sufficient, although many aquarists feed more frequently. Frozen krill, mussel and chopped fish are all ideal, and it’s best to enrich this with a HUFA (highly unsaturated fatty acid) and vitamin preparation to maintain health and coloration. Offering specialised anemone pellets in addition to enriched frozen feeds is also recommended — these may contain additional vitamins which will benefit the animal. To feed, simply place food on the tentacles using tweezers. This should rapidly elicit a feeding response, where the anemone will draw the food towards its mouth. Every now and then, the anemone will eject pellets of waste — these should be removed from the tank as soon as possible to help maintain water quality.

Suitable tank mates The large Stichodactyla anemones are extremely aggressive. They will munch just about any unlucky fish or mobile invertebrate which bumbles into them, and they will sting corals and other

The stubby tentacles are arranged in rows.

Gigantic sea anemone, Stichodactyla gigantea.

Periclimenes shrimp make interesting tank mates.

BRIAN LOW, CREATIVE COMMONS

NICK HOBGOOD, CREEATIVE COMMONS

Haddon’s anemone with resident porcelain crab.

Essential points to look for when buying your anemone: O A well-inflated specimen with no signs of damage. O A mouth that doesn’t gape excessively. O No evidence of stringy white mesenterial filaments being ejected from the mouth — this is a sign of an anemone in potential trouble. O No signs of tears or trauma to the pedal disc (foot). Many injuries occur here during collection. O The anemone should be actively adhered to the substrate. Many dealers keep anemones on AstroTurf in their holding tanks as it allows the anemones a reasonable grip, but still facilitates safe and easy removal when required. O Check the anemone is feeding — it might not be possible to witness this first hand but if you can, so much the better.

ALAMY

ALAMY

6 signs of a good carpet

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

49

Marine sessile invertebrates, including other anemones. Having said that, it is possible to keep several carpets together in the same system providing the tank is large enough and the aquarium is aquascaped in such a way as to prevent them from encountering one another. The bottom line is that their aggressive tendencies severely limit the choice of tank mates. Indo-Pacific carpet anemones will naturally host a range of clownfish species in the wild, and it’s possible to recreate this symbiotic relationship in the aquarium, so many folks opt for clowns as the sole fish in carpet anemone systems. Even so, it has been known for large carpets to occasionally eat even clowns, so it’s not a given that they’ll be immune from predation. It’s safest to try and pair the anemone with a species of clownfish with which it would naturally associate in the wild. Various species of crustacean form commensal relationships with Stichodactyla anemones (in which the anemone derives no apparent benefit), and these symbionts are a safe bet. Shrimp from the genus Periclimenes as well as the Sexy shrimp, Thor amboinensis, make fascinating additions to a carpet anemone set-up.

Mini carpets While the majority of carpet anemones reach large sizes, one member of the genus is much more manageable. Topping out at a maximum of 10cm in diameter (with most specimens significantly smaller), the Mini (or Mini-maxi) carpet anemone, S. tapetum, is a pint-sized alternative. However, it has a potent sting, so be warned. This Indo-Pacific species is potentially a good candidate for a nano tank but Mini carpets will eat small fish and they’re not a natural host species for clownfish, so there are still risks with keeping them in a mixed nano reef. As with their larger cousins, they’re best kept in a species tank with commensal shrimp — Sexy shrimp are ideal. Cultured specimens are available in a variety of colours; the anemones are propagated by splitting them in half, and they can also reproduce asexually in the aquarium. Provide a mixed substrate of sand and live rock, and feed regularly.

One for huge tanks On rare occasions, Merten’s anemone might be seen in the trade. Stichodactyla mertensii has a narrow pedal column relative to the animal’s overall diameter, and although there may be some folding apparent around the edges, the disc is generally flat. The non-sticky tentacles are quite short and stubby (particularly towards the outer edge of the oral disc), and warty verrucae (adhesive projections) help the pedal disc to adhere to the substrate. This Indo-Pacific anemone is not frequently collected, however. This is due partly to the fact that it is found in deeper water, but it’s mainly because it lives on rocky substrates, and the pedal disc is extremely difficult for collectors to prise off without the animal being damaged. The stalk is also very thin and fragile, adding to the risk of damage during collection. The very few specimens making it into the trade are therefore expensive. While it’s not necessarily any more demanding than other carpet anemones providing it’s given a suitable hard substrate, stable parameters and optimal lighting, this anemone’s ultimate size is an issue. This species reaches a diameter of well over a metre, so it needs a very large dedicated system to thrive — definitely one for experts with a huge tank who are able to create a suitable tailored habitat.

Merten’s anemone is difficult to collect without damaging the foot.

CREATIVE COMMONS

ALAMY

Mini-maxi anemone.

ALAMY

A cluster of carpet anemones among mangroves.

50

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

EXCLUSIVE SUBSCR

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS

y 5

To take advantage of this fantastic subscription offer all you have to do is either:

CALL 01858 438884 quote Z802

IPTION OFFER PRINT ONLY

O First three issues for only £5 followed by a

six-monthly direct debit of £21 O 13 issues for £50 when you pay by credit/debit card

Subscribe today! O Never miss an issue.

O Get free delivery to your door or free download to your digital device. O Save on shop prices. BEGINNERS’ GUIDE TO MARINES FREE24-PAGE

EET THE MARINES WITH MUCKY HOMES

December ‘17 issue 13 £4 40

Get spawning! Banish winter blues with our breeding project ideas

101

FASCINATING FISH FACTS

3

Discover what makes the

EASY TO ACHIEVE AQUASCAPES TO INSPIRE YOU

25

aquarium pumps on test

TAMASABA GOLDFISH —

Subtle shades

Keep t gloriously laid back Mesonauta cichlids

Why Aussie Doughnuts run rings around other corals

a fancy for ponds!

Delightful tetras to add contrast to your community aquarium Could we lose the charming Channa?

THINK FESTI

November 17 Issue 12 £4 40

Why our snakeheads are worth fighting for

All the colours of the rainbow Discover the dazzling Micro Lord — the coral every reefkeeper is after!

Uncover how Practical Fishkeeping remains the definitive one-stop-shop for inspiration, species information, problem solving and great-looking aquariums.

SUBSCRIBE NOW! TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Terms & Conditions Subscriptions will start with the next available issue. You will not receive a renewal reminder and the Direct Debit payments will continue to be taken unless you tell us otherwise. This offer closes on 16th Jan 2018. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Cost from landlines for 01 numbers per minute are (approximate) 2p to 10p. Cost from mobiles per minute (approximate) 10p to 40p. Costs vary depending on the geographical location in the UK. You may get free calls to some numbers as part of your call package – please check with your phone provider. Order lines open 8am-9.30pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-4pm (Sat). UK orders only. Overseas? Please phone +44 1858 438828 for further details. Calls may be monitored or recorded for training purposes.

or visit www.greatmagazines.co.uk/PFK

The

take-it-easy island Aquascaping doesn’t have to be hard work. You don’t need super high lighting, loads of liquid fertilisers, expensive CO2 injection and huge water changes. Just plan ahead and consider a few key components... WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: GEORGE FARMER

This set-up is proof that low maintenance ’scapes can still look amazing.

54

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Aquascaping

The lighting is run at just 10% intensity to slow plant growth and reduce maintenance.

N

ot everyone has the time required to keep a high end aquascape looking its best, let alone the money that’s required for the expensive kit to run it. The good news is that you can achieve some fantastic results without having to go down this route. I was recently asked to set up a lowmaintenance but high-impact aquascape for the Managing Director’s office at Evolution Aqua in Wigan, UK. My previous layout in the same aquarium in the same office was high-impact but also required a lot of work to keep it looking its best. With me not being local enough to maintain it regularly it saw periods of neglect and consequently there was a constant battle with nuisance algae. Keen not to tread a similar path, I planned for an aquascape that would tolerate periods of infrequent water changes and sporadic fertiliser dosing. As long as the fish were fed and the water quality was maintained, which they were, the plants could be almost forgotten about to no ill-effect and there would be minimal risk of nuisance algae.

5-step plan

1 The aquascape design

I wanted something that was easy to maintain. No carpeting plants to trim, no stem plants to prune, just plants that I could add and ignore. The obvious choices were Java fern, Anubias and Cryptocoryne — all classic low-light tolerant plants that grow slowly. The Anubias and ferns do best attached to hardscape and crypts grow well in a nutrient-rich substrate. The aquarium www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

measured 150cm /60in so a lot of planting would be required to fill it if we went for a regular aquascape. I was keen to limit the amount of plants and to rely on lots of open space to give impact. An island design was the obvious choice where we could use impactful wood and rocks to create an immediate effect.

2

Lighting

TANKSET-UP

O Aquarium: Evolution Aqua Aquascaper 1500, 150 x 60 x 55cm. O Cabinet: Evolution Aqua, Raw Concrete Grey. O Lighting: 2x Kessil A360we Tuna Sun lamps with Spectral Controller, set for eight hours a day, 10% intensity, 50% colour.

We had three Kessil A360we Tuna Suns from the previous set-up. Due to the island composition with plants in the central area of the aquarium, I removed one of the lamps and adjusted the other two on the lighting hanging kit. I set the lighting intensity to just 10% on the Kessil’s Spectral Controller unit to grow the plants as slowly as possible. An eight-hour photoperiod would be plenty, with it being set to regular office hours.

complete liquid plant food every time the fish were fed.

3 No CO injection

5 Filtration and circulation

2

The addition of CO2 injection was a no-go area due to the fact that it promotes rapid plant growth. This leads to a higher nutrient requirement (more liquid fertilisers) and need for large frequent water changes. CO2 injection means higher maintenance.

4 Liquid fertiliser

We used mature plants in pots from Dennerle, as these would be able to tolerate lean periods due to their large nutrient store. With low levels of lighting and no CO2 injection the plants’ nutrient demands are also very low. That said, plants do best with a daily feed, even if it’s just a small quantity, so I suggested adding 5ml of

O Substrate: 3 x 8 l Dennerle Scaper’s Soil, Unipac Maui Sand. O Fertilisers: The Aquascaper Complete Liquid Plant Food, 5ml per day

Two large external canister filters would be plenty for this size of aquarium. I usually recommend ten times turnover in a higher energy planted tank, which in this case would equate to 5000 l per hour. However, in such a low-energy system we could go much lower. So, with the plan in place I set about organising the wood and rocks, most of which I already had laying around at home from previous aquascapes. I purchased some additional rocks as required and we re-used the Maui Sand from the original set-up. Plants were supplied direct from the German greenhouses of Dennerle and I set about creating this easy island ’scape….

55

Tips for low-maintenance aquascaping Use the lowest lighting levels you can get away with. Figure out your most demanding plant and cater for that and no more.

1

2 3

Avoid using CO2 injection in low maintenance planted tanks.

Do use good filtration. It will help to prevent excess waste organics collecting in the aquarium.

Choose slow growing plants. Typically avoid stem plants as these grow faster than rheophytes (plants that attach to decor). Rosette plants are a good option — these are plants that grow new leaves from the same root stock such as crypts.

4

This aquarium contains 20 Black widow tetras.

Avoid carpeting plants. They usually require higher lighting levels, CO2 injection and can trap waste, leading to algae problems.

5

Stock lightly with fish and heavily with shrimp. The shrimp will help to keep away algae and produce relatively little waste.

6

BLACKWIDOWTETRA

O Scientific name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi. O Origin: Brazil, Bolivia, Argentina. O Size: 6cm/2.2in. O Aquarium size: Minimum floor plan, 90 x 30cm, 80 l volume. O Water requirements: Hardy and adaptable; pH 6 to 7.5, 5–20°H. O Temperature: 20–26°C. O Feeding: Easy — takes most suitably size dried foods with relish. Supplement with frozen bloodworm, Daphnia and brine shrimp. O Availability and cost: Common. From £2 upwards. 0

pH

Temp C 9 8 7

A few snails managed to make it in.

6 5

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

80 l+ THANKS TO Dennerle: Plants and ’Scapers Soil Unipac: Maui Sand JBL : 1501e external filters

Stocking lightly with fish results in less nutrients to feed troublesome algae.

56

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Aquascaping

How the aquascape came together

1

A bag of Dennerle ’Scapers Soil is added to the middle of the aquarium — this substrate contains nutrients to feed the plant roots and also helps to buffer the pH of the aquarium water to around 6.5. This specialist planting soil doesn’t require rinsing and its porous and light structure makes it ideal for root penetration. More soil is added later.

2

The most dominant piece of wood is added. It’s positioned with consideration given to the rule of thirds, which gives the focal point aesthetic balance. This main piece of wood is pre-soaked so it will not float or leech tannins that can stain the water. The top of the wood protrudes from the top of the tank, which adds another dimension to the design.

3

4

Around 50Kg of Mini Landscape Rock is added around the soil. The rocks are positioned to give the most attractive appearance with attention paid to their strata and aesthetic balance. The rocks also act as a barrier between the soil and the cosmetic sand that will be added later.

5

Around 10Kg of Unipac Maui Sand is added around the rocks. This is an inert quartz product that won’t affect the water chemistry. It does tend to attract algae because it is very pale but gently turning it over before every water change limits the algae build up.

6

All of the rheophyte plants are attached to the wood and rocks. We use a mixture of Anubias nana and Microsorum pteropus ‘Trident’. These plants do best attached to hardscape because their rhizomes need to be exposed to the circulating water.

8

The tank is filled with de-chlorinated tapwater. We use a colander while filling to help disperse the water flow — this prevents the water from disturbing the substrate. The water in Wigan is very soft, making it suitable for most plants and fish.

9

7

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

The remaining pieces of wood are placed in the aquarium. A total of four pieces of wood are used. This wood has not been pre-soaked before use, so to prevent the pieces floating about in the water, we have used cable ties to attach the wood to rocks placed on the bottom of the tank. These rocks are then partially buried in the soil.

The Cryptocorne are planted into the soil. I use 12 pots of various species including Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Green’ and ‘Brown’, C. becketii, C. petchii and C. undulata. Crypts often lose their leaves in the first few weeks, but if this happens they will grow new leaves that are much more robust.

The filters and external inline heater are fitted. The filter media is already mature from the previous set-up so we can add fish right away in this case — 20 Black widow tetras compliment the aquascape beautifully. This aquarium is big enough to safely stock a lot more fish but sometimes less is more…

57

Hoistt

f la

A stunner on every front, the Flagfin angel is a slightly wildcard marine showpiece that’ll liven a dull FOWLR system, or — with an element of risk — a well planned reef. WORDS: NATHAN HILL

I

t has to be said that the Flagfin angel has a lot going on. There’s the stark white and black clash on the anal fin. There’s the golden flecking in the scales. The triangulation of noggin-spot, opercular spot and black eye making up the points of a triangle over the head. Then there’s the bold lemon-yellow of the body — a shade and sheen that only marine fish seem able to command. But I always wondered why the common moniker overlooks the obvious. Among the many things it could have drawn attention to with the name, it ignores the blue ‘beak’ of hastily applied lipstick, jutting forward, prominent as a Baboon’s backside. Housing one requires a leap of faith and a bit of space. In the wild, these fish can get large by aquarium standards — 25cm/10in or more isn’t unknown. But in aquaria, that maximum length is shortened considerably — I’ve yet to see a tanked Flagfin much over 15cm/6in long, lips-to-tail tip. The leap of faith comes in regard to a heated temper, and a likelihood to turn territorial. In the wild, male fish collect up harems of females, from a couple to over a half-dozen females, and guard them with gusto. That doesn’t normally spell trouble on a reef, but in the confines of a tank, with nowhere to flee to, if a male takes exception to any particular fish, things can get nasty. Buying up females isn’t a way to avoid trouble, either. These are protogynous hermaphrodites — a female can swing her sex and become a male if it’s needed.

NEIL HEPWORTH

Reef or fish-only set-up? On the whole, most keepers will report peaceful fish, with an occasional rogue. Part of the trick, it appears, is to manipulate the stocking in such a way that everything is roughly the same size. Bullying looks to be a downwards affair, with considerably smaller fish chased. And whatever you do, don’t mix a Flagfin with other angels. There’s also the issue of invert nipping. If you’ve got a Flagfin that hasn’t already been weaned on to aquarium foods (and I know that some folks are all too eager to rush a purchase) then you’ve a heck of a time

58

teaching it how to eat. In the oceans, sponges and tunicates are on the menu. In aquaria, you’ll not be culturing enough of those any time soon to keep an angel filled. In the reef tank, you need to play it clever. Zoanthids, Palythoa, Xenia are safe enough, usually. Many broad LPS and jagged SPS are untouched. Clams are likely to get nibbled. Branching ‘softies’ may receive a bite out of curiosity. If you’ve got a monumental reef set-up filled with prize corals, maybe ensure you have a way to haul a rogue Flagfin back out before you add one. In a fish only system, live rock in abundance is a must, especially for juveniles. This has the dual benefit of providing shelter, as well as the impeccable water quality you’ll need to keep them happy. As young fish, Flagfins are quite deep dwellers (well below the 25m mark) and hug close to boltholes and caverns. As they age, they gain confidence, still remaining in visual range of aquatic ‘panic rooms’ but with a laid-back demeanour. Initially, they’ll vanish whenever you do anything in the tank, but over time you might find them spectating when you’re algae wiping.

Feeding time Feeding is probably the tallest hurdle, and one you’ll need to use trial and error to overcome. Frozen Mysis or brine shrimp is a good entry point, especially when enriched with a liquid prior to feeding. Getting some fresh fruit and veg, along with dried seaweed into the tank will keep them tip top. If you’ve got a non-feeder, chances are you’ll want live foods to get things going. Dried foods, while not an impossible proposition, will be more likely refused than accepted. But for all that, as marine angels go, these are well worth a look, especially if you’ve always wanted a Goldflake angel but could never justify the price. If you’ve experience with Dwarf angel species — Coral beauties and the like — then it’s doubtful you’ll have any real issues with Flagfins. Just do yourself one big favour and ensure that it’s feeding before you buy one. PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Marine

This fish’s common name overlooks the obvious. Among the many things it could have drawn attention to, it ignores the blue ‘beak’ of hastily applied lipstick, jutting forward, prominent as a Baboon’s backside.

FISH FACTFILE

 Common name: Flagfin angelfish.  Scientific name: Apolemichthys trimaculatus.  Origin: East Africa, north-east to southern Japan, and down to northern Australia.  Habitat: Reef-associated, from surface 2m to around 80m depth.  Tank size: 120 x 60 x 60cm aquarium advised. 400 l volume minimum.  Water requirements: 8.1 to 8.4pH, 8 to 12°KH, 1.020 to 1.025 specific gravity.  Temperature: 23 to 25°C.  Temperament: A gamble. Usually peaceful with all but other angels, but there are exceptions.  Reef safety: Risky, known to nip.  Feeding: Ideally, sponge-rich angelfish food, brine shrimp, Krill, Mysis, fresh greenfoods.  Availability and cost: Relatively common, starting around £50 for a juvenile. 0

Temp C

pH 9 8 7 6

30 28 26 24 22 20 18

400 l+

SHUTTERSTOCK

5

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

59

ALAMY

PARENT

A male Betta blows a nest of bubbles in which to nurture eggs and fry.

60

Behaviour

POWER

The underwater world is a dangerous place for young fish and they need all the help they can get to make it to maturity. For many species, the key to their survival starts at home with their parents. WORDS: CHRIS SERGEANT

F

or the species that don’t feature at the top of the underwater food chain, the aquatic world can be one that’s fraught with danger at every turn, and animals are never more vulnerable than during their early life stage. At this point in their development, larval animals need all the help they can get to survive to adulthood. From selecting suitable nesting sites through to caring for their eggs and young, a whole array of commonly occurring aquarium species invest everything they can to try to ensure the survival of their offspring.

That’s the spot… In terms of parental care and concern, even the minutest of details can help influence the survival or hatching success of larval animals. Take the Zebra danio, Danio rerio, for example. These popular aquarium fish hail from the Himalayan region, inhabiting still or slow-moving bodies of water. Using dawn light as a cue, males and females rush to the shallow edges of their immediate environment to spawn. While they don’t demonstrate any direct care for their offspring, laboratory studies have shown a distinct spawning preference for gravel substrate in both wild caught and domesticated Zebra danios, indicating that consideration goes into their spawning sites. In one study by Rowena Spence at the University of Leicester, wild caught Zebras produced no eggs when provided with a silt substrate, despite it being the most common substrate in the area they originally inhabited. Eggs laid on a silt substrate are in danger of being either exposed to predatory species, or being buried, and deprived of oxygenation as a result. In contrast, the particle complexity of the gravel provides interstitial spaces within the substrate for the eggs to be hidden from predatory fish, and increases the oxygen flow around them. So, while Zebra danios might show no www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

interest in the outcome of their young once they hatch, they actively choose the best possible egg deposition sites to boost their offspring’s hatching chances.

Building a nest With conscientious parents, care starts straight after fertilisation, and a good nesting spot goes a long way to help safeguard unhatched eggs, as well as increase the chances of attracting a member of the opposite sex. Nests can be simple, such as those favoured by salmonids. Female salmon excavate small pits in the gravel substrate, known as redds, using their tail, and the eggs are deposited and consequently buried, hidden from view. Male Three-spined sticklebacks, Gasterosteus aculeatus, also start by excavating small pits in the substrate, but then go on to create a far more elaborate structure, filling the pit with filamentous algae and other debris, and then gluing it all together using a substance called spiggin, an adhesive protein synthesised in their kidneys. Closer to home, many aquarists will be familiar with fish species creating bubblenests at the surface of the tank, known as aphrophils. The most commonly encountered in the trade are from the suborder Anabantoidei, and consist of gouramis, climbing perches and Betta, but other bubblenest makers include the African pike characin, Hepsetus odoe, Armoured catfish, Hoplosternum littorale, and the Electric eel, Electrophorus electricus. In the case of all these species, they typically occur in still or stagnant tropical waters, gulping air from the surface to enable them to survive these hypoxic conditions. Male members of the Anabantoidei family tend to build nests in the presence of females, but other factors such as temperature or rainfall fluctuations can influence this behaviour. Where possible, nests are built

61

close to structures that break the water’s surface, such as twigs, branches and plants, with the male intolerant of the female’s presence during this construction process. The nest itself will usually just consist of bubbles coated in saliva, densely packed together, although other species such as the Armoured catfish, Hoplosternum littorale, use the surrounding vegetation to create a plant mound held together with the oxygen-rich foam. The foam not only provides shelter and protection for the eggs and newly hatched young, but can help by elevating and oxygenating the eggs above the surface of the water, while preventing possible desiccation. For the most part with Anabantoidei, it is the males that continue with the parental care after successful breeding, chasing away the female, along with any other intruders from the vicinity. For the duration prior to the eggs hatching, the male carefully tends to the nest, collecting and returning any fallen eggs, and will not seek to feed during this time. Nest quality is important, as bubbles that are only loosely connected are liable to disintegrate during the spawning event, resulting in the loss of eggs or fry. Parental care continues after hatching too, with the male guarding the fry, spitting any fallen individuals back into the nest, until they are capable of free-swimming and he is relieved of his duties. Some species of snakehead, such as the Rainbow snakehead, Channa bleheri, share parental responsibilities and will both patrol the perimeter of the nest and return dropped eggs or fry together. Common occurring and readily breeding Anabantoidei species in the aquarium trade include the Dwarf gourami, Trichogaster lalius, the Pearl gourami, Trichopodus leeri, the Gold gourami, Trichopodus trichopterus, and Siamese fighter, Betta splendens. With all these species, warmer water temperatures (25–28°C) and minimal flow are key, so as not to physically disturb the best. In most cases, it’s best to set up a separate breeding aquarium for pairs, with a sponge

The egg scattering Zebra danios put more thought into the survival of their offspring than you might think...

Cave breeders

filter to provide gentle water circulation and cover objects or a number of live plants to enable the female to hide from the male if he gets over-amorous. Add the female first and condition her using live or frozen meaty foods before adding the male once the female is visibly gravid. For more details on breeding Betta specifically, Gabor Horvath’s excellent article in PFK’s July issue goes into much more detail.

ALAMY

A pair of sticklebacks breeding in the nest constructed by the male.

62

Not all nests need to be self-constructed, and many species will happily make use of naturally occurring small alcoves and caves formed under rocks and sunken logs instead. In an aquarium setting, it’s easy for the aquarist to manipulate the decor to incorporate such shelters into the tank layout for appreciative occupants. Bristlenose catfish, Ancistrus sp, are one such group of popular aquarium fish that will make use of artificial caves. These secretive spawners readily breed in aquarium settings, laying large numbers of amber-coloured eggs inside or underneath aquarium furnishings, with the male of the species being the parent who tends to them. The eggs can take five days to hatch, so he will spend the duration of this period on guard duty, while using his pectoral fins to continually aerate the eggs. Once hatched, the fry will initially attach themselves to the decor, before free-feeding and swimming once their egg sacs have been fully absorbed, and it is at this point that the male’s parental duties stop. When housing breeding pairs, be sure to protect the filter inlets with sponge to prevent any damage to the young. Otherwise, these fish are fairly undemanding, other than their need for bogwood for grazing purposes, as they extract lignin from the wood as a key part of their diet. PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Taking the kids along For some animals however, guarding a nest just isn’t an efficient enough method, as it limits behaviours such as feeding until the eggs hatch, which is particularly an issue if you are sizing up to being a single parent. So, the other alternative is to bring the eggs along for the ride, and this behaviour occurs all over the aquatic kingdom. The family Syngnathidae in the marine world are famed for such examples, with male seahorses carrying their eggs inside a brooding pouch, while the males of other species, such as the leafy seadragon, Phycodurus eques, stick their eggs to the underside of their tails. But some freshwater species also carry their

Did

eggs too, and in the absence of a brooding pouch like the seahorses, they need to be creative. The male Nurseryfish, Kurtus gulliveri, carries its eggs on a specialised hook on the front of its head, the Eeltailed banjo catfish, Platystacus cotylephorus, carries its eggs on the ventral surface of its body, while the cavefish Amblyopsis spelaea incubates its eggs within its gills. A

Baby Bristlenoses are cared for by the male.

?

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

you know

With stable water parameters and a predominantly vegetable based diet, Bristlenose catfish are capable of spawning at regular 6–8 week intervals.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

Bristlenose catfish are undemanding and, provided you have a pair and a cave, they will regularly breed in the aquarium.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

63

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

Behaviour

mouth, to avoid being picked off under the cover of darkness. In the wild, Tocantins eartheaters are found in soft, acidic waters, and show a preference for either clear or black water environments, avoiding the turbulence surrounding white water rapid habitats. As with all fish, water quality is important, but these species are particularly sensitive to deteriorating water conditions and wild fluctuations in water parameters. While set-ups can be to the taste of the aquarist, a

section of Lake Tanganyika, they do best in groups in larger aquariums with rocky structures in place to provide refuge and to reduce aggression levels. A pH in the region of 7.8–8.6 should suffice, along with water temperatures between 24–27°C, but parameter stability is just as important as matching these numbers. These deep-water cichlids are predatory, so care should be taken when selecting suitable tank mates, and any smaller species are liable to end up on the menu.

Provide Kribs with a choice of caves and adequate food, and you are almost guaranteed success. They are dressed to the nines in an electric array of yellows, reds and blues, too.

64

sandy bottom is a must to allow these fish to engage in their natural foraging behaviours without the risk of physical damage to their gills, or internal damage as a result of ingested substrate. Another mouth brooding cichlid available within the aquarium trade is the Lake Tanganyikan Frontosa, Cyphotilapia frontosa. Translated as ‘hunchback with big head’, these striking cichlids can reach in excess of 30cm/12in length, and sport large, bulbous foreheads. Found in the northern

Protective parents

Other cichlid species adopt different, but equally attentive parenting methods. Kribensis, Pelvachromis pulcher, are one of the most commonly encountered, and popular, cichlid species available in the trade. These dwarfs retain that renowned cichlid personality, but without the huge growth spurts, bouts of rage and exact water parameter requirements of some of their family members display. Kribs are a perfect ‘beginners’ breeder fish — provide them with a choice of caves, adequate food source and you are almost guaranteed success. Add that to the fact that they are dressed to the nines in an electric array of yellows, reds and blues, and that they will tolerate most communitytank set-ups — what’s not to like? As with the vast majority of other dwarf cichlids, Kribs are cave spawners, laying their eggs on the underside of logs, rocks and caves, with both parents taking an PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

host of other fish however retain their eggs in their mouth. If you are lucky enough to host a large enough aquarium, the Silver arowana, Osteoglossum bicirrhosum, will mouth brood, but for the majority of fishkeepers who wish to keep fish with this behavioural trait, you will need to look for species within the cichlid family. Famed among aquarists for the parental care afforded to their fry, cichlids are freshwater fish from the family Cichlidae, and from the same suborder, Labroidei, as marine damselfish and wrasse species. Found predominantly across the Americas and Africa, all cichlids engage in parental care, with a huge variety of species found across the aquarium trade. The Tocantins eartheater, Geophagus altifrons, is a mouth brooder found in the majority of the tributary drainage basins that feed into the lower to mid Amazon. Like other mouth brooders, the female will carry the eggs around in her mouth until they hatch, ceasing to feed during this period. Once the fry hatch, the female and male take turns in continuing to mouth brood the young, switching duties by placing the fry in depressions built in the sand during the swap. As the fry develop, they spend longer outside of their parents’ mouths, but should danger be detected, a rapid movement of the ventral fins warns the fry to take cover in the adult’s mouth once more. While at a vulnerable size, the fry also spend the night inside the parent’s

ALAMY

NATHAN HILL

Eel-tailed banjo catfish take their eggs with them, attached to their undersides.

Behaviour ...and those mouths can hold a lot of growing youngsters.

ALAMY

Arowana are mouthbrooders...

Kribs are easy and rewarding to breed — and look at the colours on this female.

Did

?

you know

While Kribs tend to be unfussy about water chemistry, pH plays a factor in determining the sex ratio of offspring, with the number of females increasing along with water acidity.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

65

Baby food As well as providing care and security, cichlids take an active role in helping feed their young too. The Convict cichlid, Amatitlania nigrofasciata, escorts its fry around, lifting up leaves and moving the sand with its fins to reveal micro-sized prey. Others show a more mammalian approach

to feeding by offering up their own source of food. Discus, Symphysodon sp., Uaru, Uaru amphiacanthoides, and the Midas cichlid, Amphilophus citrinellus, all secrete a nutritional mucus on which their young feed. As with mammals, the nutritional and immunological content of the secretion changes over time, reacting to the needs of the fry to provide them with the best possible start. When fry want feeding, they engage in a process known as contacting, whereby they appear to nip the flanks of their parents to stimulate the mucus glands to swell and secrete. Discus parents share the feeding responsibilities too, with one gently flicking their brood over to the other parent when their turn is up.

Cuckoo in the nest As well as the threat of fry predation, certain Tanganyikan cichlids can fall victim to the parasitic behaviour of the Cuckoo catfish, Synodontis multipunctatus. Far from being a dedicated parent, this sneaky fish leaves the job of childcare to mouthbrooding cichlids. During the cichlid spawning process, the female cichlid lays and then gathers up all her eggs in her mouth. While she is busy collecting her eggs, the male cichlid shimmers his tail in front of her, revealing a row of egg shaped spots along the base. As she tries to grab these too, the male releases his sperm and fertilises the eggs in her mouth. At this point the catfish swoop in to feed on the cichlid eggs and simultaneously release their own fertilised eggs. In a panic, the female cichlid scoops up every egg she can, including the catfish eggs, and then unwittingly mouthbroods those too. Unfortunately for the cichlids, the catfish eggs and fry develop and grow quicker than their own, predating on the cichlid fry within the mother’s mouth. Despite their obvious catfish appearance, the cichlid is undeterred, and continues to raise and care for them as if they were her own.

Convict cichlids with their brood of fry.

66

Convict cichlids will find food for their youngsters among the leaf litter and substrate.

Ctenochromis cichlid mouthbrooding a juvenile Cuckoo catfish.

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

active parenting role. Initially, the female will guard and aerate the eggs in the shelter, whilst the male patrols and chases away any intruders in the nearby vicinity to the nest. Once hatched and free swimming, the parents will escort the fry in tank excursions, foraging for food, but always on hand to protect their bounty. During this period, it’s not uncommon for one adult to drive away the other. While literature suggests that the female often takes the dominant role, my own personal experience with Kribs has always seen the male take the lead and become completely intolerant of the female’s presence. Then, after a couple of weeks, the fry drift away to a life of independence, and your pair, after a little making up, will often look to start spawning once more. Hailing from Nigeria and Cameroon, Kribs prefer softer, slightly acidic water, but being so easily bred, those offered for sale are often adapted to a wide water chemistry range, although caves and shelters are a must. Although they produce comparatively large fry, ensure you have adequate micro live foods and crushed pellets available. During the breeding season, even the most peaceful of cichlid parents are far less tolerant of intruders on their territory, and will aggressively defend their offspring in the wake of a perceived threat. But such displays of anger use up vital resources, and when parents are relying on stored energy reserves in the absence of being able to forage, it pays to really know who your enemies are.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Discus secrete a nutritional mucus on which their young feed. They share the feeding responsibilities too, with one gently flicking their brood over to the other parent when their turn is up. Be prepared

GETTY

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

Playing happy families in your tank can be both educational and rewarding, but remember to consider the outcome of the success — a lot more hungry mouths to feed. If you are planning on housing species with the goal of breeding them, be sure to be prepared in terms of first foods and grow out tanks before you start, as this will save you the hassle when things get going.

Dinner is served — in this case on the flanks of a Discus parent.

67

ALAMY

Behaviour

BRIGHT-ON The colours of the cichlids in this Malawi set-up contrast beautifully with the almost monochrome rocky hardscape. WORDS AND PHOTOS: GEORGE FARMER

T

his aquarium system, designed and installed by Amin Aquatics, is dedicated to Malawi cichlids. It’s the perfect combination of clever equipment meeting visually appealing design. The tank was custom built with a separate ‘engine room’ situated outside that houses the filtration system so there’s no visible equipment in the tank. At a generous 120cm length and 75cm in height, this aquarium offers a large viewing window to the rock-island theme aquascape. The gravel matches the colour and texture of the large rocks and the whole design is very coherent. LED lighting from a point source offers extreme shadowing and highlights for extra dramatic effect. The effect of more than 70 colourful and active cichlids swimming among that Grey Pillar rock is stunning and provides the owners with many hours of viewing pleasure. There’s always plenty going on in this set-up.

TANK SET-UP

● Aquarium: Custom built, 120 x 60 x 75cm/48 x 24 x 30in, 540 l. ● Cabinet: Aqua Oak sump (situated outside in insulated housing: 150 x 60 x 60cm, 558 l volume. ● Filtration: Two biological media reactors with K1 media, UV clarifier, Hydra, inline heater and in-sump heating. ● Lighting: One AI Hydra 52. ● Hardscape: 140 Kg Grey Pillar rock. ● Substrate: Dennerle Baikal. ● Fish: 76 various Malawi cichlids supplied by Kevin and Scott Lynch (Kev’s Rifts).

68

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Inspirational aquariums

ROCK

The height of this aquarium helps give the aquascape more impact.

The LED lighting provides dramatic effect by shadowing some areas while highlighting others.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

69

AQUATIC In association with

DIPLOMA

SCH

The final part of our Diploma series looks at aquarium management, and the tasks that you need to perform to keep things healthy. WORDS: NATHAN HILL

PART FIVE: MAINTENANCE

S

o far, we’ve covered a lot of theoretical ground, from water quality and chemistry, physiology and habitat, filters and aquarium maturation, and diseases. Now it’s time to look at the pragmatic side of aquatics. Successful fishkeeping is about more than buying a tank, filling it and hoping for the best. Where you position your tank can have an impact on a fish’s wellbeing. Your choice of decoration may be

unintentionally harming your livestock. Feeding requirements may vary from fish to fish. The way you choose to clean your substrate and filters can have a huge impact on a tank’s ecosystem. The skills needed to run an aquarium are like household tools. Some of them you’ll draw upon frequently, while others may only ever be used once or twice. But, just like in a tool kit, even if they’ve been sat you’ll be glad you have them when the time comes.

REGISTER NOW

MISSED ANY OF THE SERIES? Buy the October, November, December and January issues at pfkmag.com with free first class postage if you live in the UK!

70

Fine, sandy substrates need careful maintenance to prevent them turning anaerobic.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

NEIL HEPWORTH

at www.practicalfishkeeping. co.uk/diploma and at the end of the course we’ll send you a link to take the free online exam. Pass the exam to receive your Fishkeeping Diploma!

In association with

Fishkeeping Diploma Part 5 Siting an aquarium

Avoid housing tanks near any of the following: ] Windows – these allow direct sunlight to reach an aquarium, potentially causing algae growth, overheating, and sunburn or heatstroke of fish. Indirect sunlight, in a bright room with multiple windows, can exaggerate algae growth. Open windows create draughts, leading to potential temperature fluctuations. ] Radiators – cause aquaria to fluctuate in temperature and dangerously overheat.

Your tank needs to be located somewhere that offers easy access for maintenance.

Ensure there are plenty of power sockets nearby.

] Audio speakers on televisions and stereos – produce vibrations, stressful to the sensitive hearing of livestock.

above the tank will be a hindrance when working inside it. Power supplies need to be nearby, but away from splashing. Avoid positioning directly over plug sockets. Long power cables can become trip and fire hazards. Increase safety by using a drip loop on any aquarium connections. These simple loops stop water from running into a socket.

] Doors – potential for collisions, draughts and noise (through slamming). Especially avoid a door’s opening arc, as a direct impact will cause a catastrophic break. You will need to consider access, power supply and traffic. Traffic means the people passing an aquarium. A quiet living room is a better choice for shy and nervous fish than a busy hallway. Note that in busy areas, the risk of tank collisions increases considerably. Access to an aquarium includes ability to reach pipework set behind it, and the outer glass on the back and sides. Obstructions

NEIL HEPWORTH

Aquarium size

Don’t place your aquarium in direct sunlight or close to radiators.

The total mass of fish in a tank is called its stocking density. Optimal stocking densities are subject to so many variables that accurate calculation is almost impossible. Among the influences on optimal stocking density are: total water volume, fish mass, feeding amount and frequency, protein content of food, fish metabolic rate, aquarium surface area to volume ration, filter turnover, biological media volume, temperature, plant density, and supplementary filtration. At purchase, few fish will have reached their full adult mass potential. For each doubling in bodily length, mass increases many times over. A goldfish of 2cm long may weigh around 0.2g, but 3g at 5cm. The larger fish, while only 3cm longer, is 15 times the mass of the smaller fish. Increased fish mass leads to increased pollution. When calculating how many fish a tank can hold, stocking density should be based around adult size of the fish being added. Biological filter capacity is the principal limiting factor of stocking density. The more the tank’s ability to convert ammonia and nitrite, the higher the number of fish it can hold. In commercial systems, 30 to 40kg (and upwards) of fish per 1000 l of water is commonplace. In aquaria, 2kg of fish per 100 l may be at the filter’s limit.

71

NEIL HEPWORTH

Sunlight, heat, and noise can all be restricting factors to positioning an aquarium. Kitchens, working garages and bathrooms make poor choices for housing tanks, because of airborne contaminants or temperature fluctuations. Site tanks away from places where children and boisterous pets may collide with them. Always use sturdy aquarium cabinets that cannot be easily tipped over.

] A hiding place for eggs and fry, or spawning medium for some fish. In some cases, the presence of substrate may be required as a trigger to facilitate spawning between fish. ] Slow release of nutrients for plants. Drawbacks of substrate can include: ] Excess mineral release into softwater (such as with coral sand in acidic tanks). ] Deep sand can turn anaerobic without adequate passage of oxygen. This can lead to the development of bacteria that convert nitrate back in to nitrite, or produce highly toxic hydrogen sulphide. ] Substrate can conceal waste like fish faeces and uneaten food, making a tank appear cleaner than it really is. ] Incorrect substrate size and texture can fish barbels and skin from repeated contact. ] Some planting substrates may initially contain a source of ammonia which may require them to be soaked in the tank without fish for some time. ] Substrates may act as a refuge for disease-causing parasites and pathogens, making them difficult to remove. ] Incorrectly sized gravel can get lodged in the mouths of substrate browsing fish.

Allow for the adult size of your fish when considering stocking levels.

A primitive way to determine stocking density is the cm (fish) per litre (water) formula. Based on the type of filtration used, and assuming that the tank will mainly house small fish with a low mass, the stocking rates can be calculated as follows: ]Tanks with undergravel filters — 0.8cm fish per litre of water. ]Tanks with internal canister filters — 1 to 1.2cm fish per litre of water. ]Tanks with external canister filters — 1.5 to 1.8cm fish per litre of water. Heavy filtration, high oxygenation, and frequent water changing combined may allow for an abnormally high stocking density A ‘six-times’ rule is sometimes used to calculate minimum tank sizes for individual fish, determining that the length of the tank should be no less than six times the fish’s full adult length. Territoriality should be factored in to tank size. Tanganyikan cichlids, for example, require a larger tank than peaceful fish of a similar size, to allow the formation of

72

boundaries. Red tailed black sharks and Sucking loaches are examples of fish that are peaceful while small, but become territorial as they age. Some fish require a shoal, which means their combined mass should be considered. Though they may be small, the weight of their numbers may require a larger tank.

Substrates may be coarse or fine. Coarse substrates like gravel are easier to clean, but provide a poor medium for plants. Fine substrates like silver sand are great for plant roots, but more prone to turning anaerobic. Deeper substrates harbour more waste and are likelier to turn anaerobic than

Substrate and decoration Benefits of substrate can include: ] Natural/calming environment for fish. ] Increased biological surface area. ] Slow release of pH buffering minerals into the water (as with coral sand). ] Rooting medium for plants. ] Feeding area for some species, such as catfish. ] A hiding place for some fish, such as burrowing catfish or loaches.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

In association with

Fishkeeping Diploma Part 5

NEIL HEPWORTH

NEIL HEPWORTH

shallow ones. At the maximum, coarse Wood and leaf litter is ideal substrates should generally be no deeper for a softwater set-up. than 5cm in a community tank. For fine substrates, no deeper than 2.5cm substrate should be used. Exceptions may include aquascapes, where deep beds of highly porous planting substrate are used for decorative effect, and natural filter systems that rely on deep gravel beds. Artificially coloured gravel (the bright and almost flourescent kind) is often made from dolomite and then coated. Dolomite is a mineral rich substrate and may cause water to become hard and alkaline, making it unsuitable for softwater tanks. Alternatively, a tank may lack substrate altogether. A bare-based aquarium can be easier to keep clean, as the accumulation of waste will be visibly obvious. It can also be easier to extract dormant pathogens on the base in the event of a disease outbreak. This type of system is often used in Don’t go deeper hospital and quarantine tanks, as than 5cm with gravel ] Dried, aquarium safe leaves well retailers with large substrates. (usually hardwood). volumes of livestock. The downside to not using ] Igneous and sedimentary substrates is that your fish rocks. miss out on all of the benefits noted above. ] Resin ornaments. Decoration in a tank is both aesthetically pleasing, and ] Terracotta tubes and pots. beneficial for the fish. Decor needs to be considered on a case by Decoration needs to be chosen with regard case basis. It may act as a boundary marker to fish behaviour and water requirements. for territorial fish, or as a hiding place for Real woods and leaves can leach shy/nervous fish. Fish may require discolouring, pH reducing tannic acid into decoration in the form of caves to spawn in the water. To reduce the effects of this, wood or on, or to retreat to at night. needs to be soaked for prolonged periods before use. Many woods also need to Decoration can be naturally or become waterlogged before they will sink. artificially derived. Examples of Some rocks increase hardness levels by aquarium decoration include: releasing carbonates as they dissolve. These ] Dried hardwood branches and roots.

can sometimes be detected by exposing them to srtrong acids and checking for a reaction. Usually, the acids required for an observable reaction are more concentrate than the lay aquarist has access to. Rocks from the ocean (such as Tufa rock and Ocean rock) typically contain carbonates. Some rocks contain dangerous metals, often visible as colourful striations. These can be reactive in acidic tanks, where they increase the acidity levels as they simultaneously release toxic metals. Rocks with sharp surfaces may be unsuited to fish that like to rest on decoration, or those that may brush against it (especially highly active fast swimmers). Cheap artificial decoration may have harmful paints that can be rasped off by suckermouthed catfish. Lead paint may be a particular hazard for fish.

GEORGE FARMER

Avoid rocks with sharp surfaces that may damage your fish.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

73

Feeding Fish need food for energy and metabolic processes, as well as protein and nutrients required for muscle growth, tissue repair and egg development. Incorrect feeding can cause nutritional diseases (see part 4). As well as these, the aquarist needs to avoid underfeeding or overfeeding. Underfeeding can lead to emaciated or weak fish, poor egg production, inability to regenerate damaged tissues, stress, lowered immunity and eventual death. Overfeeding can be problematic in several ways. Uneaten food decomposing in the aquarium produces more ‘waste’ ammonia than food that has been utilised by fish for growth and energy. Excess food consumed by fish will lead to elevated amounts of ammonia excretion. Uneaten food can lead to outbreaks of snails, planarians, copepods, and bacterial or algal blooms. Fish may be opportunists or grazers. Constant grazers (such as seahorses) cannot retain food stores and need near constant feeds throughout the day. Opportunists, like Red tail catfish, might gorge on a single meal and then not feed for weeks, until the meal has been digested. Most aquarium fish are casual opportunist feeders that will feed to excess given the opportunity. Ammonia is released relative to how fish feed. Grazers excrete ammonia constantly, while predators produce ammonia in large, intermittent spikes, whenever fed. A tankful of predators fed at the same time will experience more ammonia fluctuations than a tank filled with grazers. Community fish require two to three small feeds a day. Offer as much as they will eat in 90 to 120 seconds, and then stop until the next feeding schedule. Ideally, fish should receive food as a percentage of their bodyweight daily, which would involve weighing the fish.

Uneaten fish food can lead to outbreaks of snails, planarians, copepods, and bacterial or algal blooms. For day to day maintenance, most fish require 1% of their bodyweight in food daily. For fast growth, tissue repair or egg development, this can be raised to 2% bodyweight daily. At the extreme, 3% bodyweight daily may be offered to fast growing fry. Fish have low energy requirements compared to similar sized terrestrial dwelling animals, such as mammals. Fish need to neither generate body heat (as mammals do) nor resist gravity (their swimbladders make them neutrally buoyant), saving them considerable energy. Ensure that species can access the type of food offered: floating food for surface feeders, sinking food for bottom feeders, and so on.

Cleaning Substrate needs regular cleaning, to remove food and faeces. The best way to clean gravel is with a gravel cleaning syphon, combined with a partial water change. Sand is too fine to be cleaned this way. Physically rake through sand with an aquarium planting tool or (carefully) fingers to stir up debris. When waste settles back on top of the sand, use a siphon to skim it off. Recirculating vacuum cleaners can also be used with either sand or gravel. These lift up water and waste, returning water to the tank via a fine screen which traps debris. These vacuums can be motorised or air driven. Water changes perform several roles, including: ] Dilution of nitrate, phosphate, phenols, pheromones and dyes. Aquarium fish will gorge to excess given the chance, so offer two or three small feeds a day.

] Dilution of ammonia and/or nitrite during an emergency. ] Replenishing essential minerals depleted by fish, plants and biological filtering. The amount and frequency of water changes is linked to stocking density. A lightly stocked aquarium will deplete minerals and generate nitrate at a slower rate than a heavily stocked one. Accurate water change volumes and frequencies require regular water tests to determine. In the event of increasing nitrates and phosphates, frequency of changes should increase. In the event of declining water hardness, water changes should be increased. 10% water changes once or twice a week are wise in tanks where fish do not tolerate fluctuations in water chemistry. 25% water changes weekly are the norm for a typically stocked aquarium. 35% water changes weekly represent the upper limit of water that can be safely replaced for many community species. 50% water changes are usually reserved for emergencies, such as accidental overdoses of medication, or issues like catastrophic filter failure. Source water should be appropriate for the tank (part one of this series covers hardness and pH). Most aquarists use tapwater, or reverse osmosis (RO) water. Tapwater has a few drawbacks for fish, including: ] Chlorine, and possibly chloramine, added as a disinfectant. ] Potential contamination with nitrates and phosphates. ] Potential for very high or very low mineral content, pending its source.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Clean filter media weekly or fortnightly, depending on your stocking density.

74

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

In association with

Fishkeeping Diploma Part 5

a mineral free source such as RO if possible. Minerals aren’t depleted with LEFT: evaporating water, causing concentrations Gravel cleaner. in the aquarium water to increase slightly. ABOVE: Tapwater Repeatedly topping up with mineral rich conditioner. water increases the hardness level. Testing water should take place weekly, for the water quality parameters addressed in part one of this series. Water testing methods can involve probes, ] Possible contamination in the event of or colorimetric chemicals in liquid, tablet or groundworks. strip kits. Probes may be expensive and only test individual parameters, but are RO water is a contaminant free source usually highly accurate if maintained well. of aquarium water, but has drawbacks, Liquid, tablet and dip tests are cheaper and including: more commonly used. Colorimetric tests ] RO units for home use are expensive, and require installation into domestic plumbing use reagents that change colour to identify levels of compounds being tested. and are wasteful (many litres of water are wasted for each litre of RO produced). When testing it is vital that: ] Water removed from the tank into test ] Home RO units may be damaged if tubes is not poured back into the aquarium. pre-filters aren’t maintained.

NEIL HEPWORTH

Check it for signs of damage or wear before cleaning it gently.

NEIL HEPWORTH

Remove the filter impeller from the well.

more regular filter cleans. Filter hoses, filter cases and impellers will also need cleaning. Clean filter hoses with a proprietary pipe cleaning brush. Disconnect the hose from the tank and filter and clean it over a sink or in a bucket. Don’t use boiling water to flush the pipe, as this is dangerous. Check hose ends for signs of perishing. Where the hose has become brittle, it may need to be cut off to bring fresh hosing to the connections. Severely brittle hosing will need replacing. Filter cases, especially strainers, can become clogged with debris. Remove them from the tank, and using a small brush, such as a repurposed toothbrush, thoroughly clean any slats and apertures. Impellers need frequent cleaning. Remove them from the impeller wells when you perform filter maintenance to clean and inspect them. Look for: ] Uneven wear and tear on the magnet.

] RO water will require minerals to be added to it to make it safe to use.

] Testing takes place away from the tank to avoid accidental spillage of reagents.

] ‘Lines’ carved into the magnet to indicate detritus has entered the impeller well.

] Purchasing RO from a retailer requires travelling and carrying/storage of water.

] Gloves and safety glasses are used with any reagents that pose a health hazard.

] Misalignment of the impeller shaft.

] RO may have low oxygen content if not aerated before use.

] Test tubes are capped securely before shaking them — don’t use fingers or thumbs as they pose a health risk and may also contaminate readings.

] Missing vanes on top of the impeller.

If using tapwater for water changes, it must be dechlorinated with a proprietary dechlorinator before use. Failure to do so risks gill and skin damage, compromised immune systems and potentially damaged filtration. Always mix dechlorinator with water before being added to aquaria. Some dechlorinating devices containing carbon can be attached directly to a tap, removing chlorine as water passes through. Evaporated water should be replaced with

] Test tubes are thoroughly washed, rinsed and dried after use to avoid contamination in later tests.

Filter maintenance Most filter media requires cleaning weekly or fortnightly, pending type of media and the burden on it. Heavily stocked tanks need

] Cracks in the impeller magnet.

] Vanes that spin unimpeded on the impeller magnet body. Any of the above warrants immediate replacement of the impeller and shaft. To clean the impeller, gently brush it with an old toothbrush, and rinse thoroughly. Clean the impeller well with a cotton bud and flush out with water before replacing the impeller. Ensure the impeller can turn unrestricted before reassembling the filter.

HOW YOU CAN GAIN YOUR DIPLOMA Go to www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/diploma and register for the free online exam now. You will then be sent a link to take the exam at the end of the five-month course (there will be a paper copy option for readers without online access). If you pass the exam, you will receive your very own Fishkeeping Diploma, to show that you have successfully completed the course, and which is yours to display on the wall near your aquarium, hang in your fish house

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

— or keep somewhere safe where you can take it out and just look at it from time to time. Open to UK residents only. The Fishkeeping Diploma is not a qualification and should not be confused with the type of diploma presented by colleges, universities and other educational establishments. The Fishkeeping Diploma is awarded by PFK in association with Fluval. For more info on Fluval, visit www.fluvalaquatics.com/uk

75

is available at your fingertips too!

Subscribe today www.greatmagazines.co.uk and search for Practical Fishkeeping and you’ll get access to extra content including video

D/E/KK^d ϭϬϬ ŝƐ Ă ƟŶLJ ĂƋƵĂƌŝƵŵ ĂĞƌĂƚŽƌ ǁŝƚŚ ĂĚũƵƐƚĂďůĞ ƉĞƌĨŽƌŵĂŶĐĞ dŚĞ ĚĞǀŝĐĞ ĂĐŚŝĞǀĞƐ Ă ŚŝŐŚ ƉĞƌĨŽƌŵĂŶĐĞĚĞƐƉŝƚĞĂǀĞƌLJƐŵĂůůƐŝnjĞ ϱdžϰdžϰĐŵĂŶĚůŽǁƉŽǁĞƌ ĐŽŶƐƵŵƉƟŽŶŽĨϭǁ

MINIBOOST 100 - 192038 RRP: £9.99

To shop online for click & collect into your nearest Aquael stockist or for ŚŽŵĞ ĚĞůŝǀĞƌLJ ƉůĞĂƐĞ ŐŽ ƚŽ ǁǁǁĂůŇƚĚĐŽƵŬďƌĂŶĚĂƋƵĂĞů

Improve your Fishkeeping Practical advice and great ideas to ensure you get the most from your hobby.

78

Going down the river Many fish hail from waters that are far livelier han those in the average aquarium — and here’s plenty to gain from going with the flow.

Fishkeeping Answers

84

Happy, healthy new year Great ideas to help you improve your fishkeeping during 2018.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

87

Fishkeeping Answers Some of the world’s top aquatic experts answer your questions.

77

Improve your Fishkeeping

GOINGDOWN WORDS: NATHAN HILL

ANCISTRUS — Bristlenose plec A robust South American suckermouthed catfish that thrives in high flows over rounded rocks.

78

NEIL HEPW

NEIL HEPWORTH

Fantastic fish for fast-flow set-ups

SHUTTERSTOCK

ALAMY

While most aquaria are static cubes of water, many fish hail from waters that are much livelier — and there’s plenty to gain from going with the flow…

BARILIUS — River trout Open-water swimmers that like a moderate to strong current in at least half of their tank to swim against.

NOTROPIS — Rainbow shiner North American river fish that swims in open waters. Prefers an open tank with a moderate to high laminar flow. PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Basics

THE RIVER

DEVARIO — Giant ‘danio’ Active schooling fish that like moderate to fast flows. Lots of dissolved oxygen and excellent water quality essential. www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

ALAMY

AQUARIUM PHOTO.DK

Fast flows result in a high level of dissolved oxygen in the water, which is essential if you are keeping rapids species in the aquarium.

GYRINOCHEILUS — Sucking loach Bottom dwellers that thrive in the fastest of flows. Can become territorial with age.

CHAETOSTOMA — Bulldog plec These catfish cling to rounded stones and appreciate fast and torrential flows.

79

Improve your Fishkeeping found in the middle of the river, in the open water column. In shallower waters, fish may live among or under rocks. There’s also the riparian region, or the riverbank — this is a greyer area as the fish here, while living in a river, may be subject to entirely different flows to those living in the river ‘proper’.

Shaped by the current Rivers make up a considerable chunk of freshwater biotopes. The fish that live within them have had to adapt to flowing waters, leading to body shapes that are either flattened with little drag, or torpedo-shaped and suited to scything through the water with ease. Some fish are so reliant on fast flows that they can make tragic aquarium residents, if kept

incorrectly. At a physical level, their adaptations may include a ratio of red to white muscle best-suited to continuous swimming. Denied the freedom to do this, they may become stressed, ill or both. Fish that live in fast-flowing waters are called rheophiles, and quite a few are immediately obvious; they never quite look right in a still tank. Mid-water-swimming rheophile fish — Barilius and Opsarius, for example — look fast at a glance. In an aquarium they’re notably restless, tearing around the layout with seemingly endless energy reserves. Tank mates can be a problem. Slow or nervous species can be intimidated by the restless movement of other fish. Remember that some species use the behaviour of Gobies have modified pelvic fins that act like suckers, effectively sticking them to the rocks in fast-flow habitats.

NEIL HEPWORTH

E

ver just stood and watched a river racing by? Maybe you’ve leant over a stone bridge on a scorching summer day to play ‘Pooh sticks’ in the flowing stream beneath. Don a snorkel and dip your face into that sprinting water, and you shouldn’t be surprised to see fish swimming along to their own beat. Not all rivers are the same, and even the same river can vary considerably over its length. Many can be divided into set zones. Crenon zones are the highest, where the river begins, and these can be slow-moving, relatively cool and lacking oxygen. Rhithron zones are the much quicker upstream stretches that follow the crenon — stretches with fast flows and high oxygen levels, but still quite cool water. Potamon zones are the downstream stretches, where the water is warmer, but the oxygen lower than the rhithron zone. The potamon is where we find sandy bottoms and sluggish flows. Rivers are influenced by the type of ground they run through. Mountain streams fed by melting ice peaks will be soft and clear. As they progress, they may take on minerals from calcareous rocks, making them hard and alkaline. They might run through forests filled with decaying leaves, devoid of rocks, becoming soft and acidic as a result. They may be stained black by tannins, or could be ‘white’ with particles. Across the river, fish may live in one or more of several areas. Species like knifefish and catfish may live at extreme river depths, on the bottom. Active swimmers may be

SHUTTERSTOCK

A fast-flowing rainforest river.

80

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Basics

Step-by-step manifold system Create a laminar flow in your river aquarium with this simple project. WHAT YOU’LL NEED O Enough 2.5cm/1in diameter rigid piping to span the length of your aquarium more than three times. OFour 2.5cm/1in 90° bends. OSix 2.5cm/1in tee pieces. OTwo 2.5cm/1in caps. OPipe cleaner (optional). O Pipe cement (optional). OTwo powerheads. OJunior hacksaw. O File. O Power drill and sharp drill bit. OTape measure.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

Clean the ends of the pipes and the insides of the elbows, then apply a conservative amount of cement to both. Pushing the pipes into place, hold them for ten seconds, after which they will have formed a permanent seal. When cementing you need to be accurate and fast. You only get those ten seconds!

Drill holes in two lengths before cementing on the caps. These are then connected to the tee pieces at one end of the manifold. Don’t cement them, to allow you to access and clean them. At the other end of the tank insert two lengths at the height you want the pumps to sit.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

Measure the lengths of pipe. We’re using three 77cm/30.3in lengths to go from end to end, allowing space for the bends. Cut shorter, but equal-sized lengths to fit between bends and tee pieces. Have a ‘dry’ run and lay the parts out to establish what will go where.

Cement a tee to each end of the outside lengths of pipe, ensuring they sit at the same angle. Then, using smaller pieces of pipe, connect a tee to each corner bend. Pieces must point up 90° from the rest of the manifold, as these will house the pumps and the strainers.

After placing your finished manifold into the bottom of the aquarium, fit the powerheads at one end using the conical adaptors provided. Once in position, add your chosen substrate to cover one end of pipework.

Using a level surface, cut the piping. Ensure that the cuts are as straight as possible to avoid inconsistencies when fitting the manifold together. Once cut, take care to file the swarf from the inside ends of the pipes, as any that’s remaining may come loose and damage the pump impellers when running.

Cement the remaining short pipes to the tee pieces and, using the two outer assemblies, ‘sandwich’ them onto the centre length. You can now focus on the uplift pipes you want to act as strainers and pump holders. Here we cut lengths of pipe around 17cm/6.7in long.

Now it’s simply a case of decorating the tank using the large, rounded type of stones that you’d expect to find in a fast-flowing river. Once you have everything in place, you just need to fill the tank!

NEIL HEPWORTH

We’re using a Hagen Studio 900 aquarium, 94cm/37in in length. Be aware that with some tanks there may be a central bracing bar that makes it difficult to get the finished manifold into place. In tanks with drilled bases, as with this model, you’ll need to factor this into your design.

81

Improve your Fishkeeping

It’s important to note that flow can be laminar or turbulent. Laminar flow, which is what you’d experience in a slow, wide river, is orderly — all the water moving from Point A to Point B in a nice, straight line. Turbulent flow, which is what you’d find in crashing river rapids or under a waterfall, is violent and chaotic, with small, localised movements of water going in any and all directions. In aquaria, turbulent flows are the easiest to create. Laminar flows need some forward planning and a bit of DIY pipework.

High oxygen demands If you’ve managed to get the flow right, then oxygen should naturally follow, but it still doesn’t hurt to keep oxygen levels higher than you would in a normal community tank. Species like Sewellia, Chaetostoma and Barilius have exceptionally high oxygen demands. Sewellia and Chaetostoma often come from torrential streams with a constant, churning action that saturates the water with oxygen. An undersized canister filter running at half power in the corner of a tank isn’t much of a substitute for that. Generating surface movement is a great way of upping oxygen. Repositioning

ALAMY

Rivers and streams can be fast. At the top end, crashing river rapids may peak at outrageous velocities of around 14mph — in aquarium terms, that would be equal to shifting all the water from one end of a 6.5m-long tank to the other end in one second. Thankfully, we don’t need to go quite that far to make a river tank. More sedate rivers — the Nile, Amazon and so on — tend to have velocities ranging from around 30cm per second at their slow end, to around 2m per second in wet seasons. Taken as an average, the Amazon river (home to many of our aquarium species) flows at around 1.5mph — roughly 65cm per second.

PAREUTROPIUS — ‘Debauwie’ catfish These prefer a tank with both high and low-flow areas, as well as open space.

82

pumps so that they cause splashing and ripples increases the surface area of the tank, allowing a larger interface for oxygen to get into the water. Air pumps help to a degree, mainly through boosting the water’s surface area. To increase oxygen and produce a realistic look for turbulent river rapids, consider a venturi device connected to a pump or powerhead. The venturi works by using water flow from the pump to draw a fine stream of air down an air line. This is then blasted out of the pump outlet as a fine mist of tiny bubbles. It’s a great way to provide a ‘crashing’ rapids effect, with minimal effort.

Waste management Rheophilic fish are never exposed to their own waste in the wild, but produce a large amount of ammonia by virtue of being so active — high activity equals high metabolism. When setting up a river tank, you will want a slightly larger filter than usual. Where possible, go for external canisters, and plump for a good balance of foam and biomedia. As the tank has such a high flow, less waste will settle in the substrate than it would in a ‘slow’ set-up, meaning that mechanical

RHINOGOBIUS — Dragon gobies Come from shallow rivers in China where they form territories around stones. Like moderate to high flows.

SEWELLIA — Hillstream loach Originate from shallow, cool, fast-flowing streams. Prefer aquarium flow that is high to very high. PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

SHUTTERSTOCK

NEIL HEPWORTH

This river aquarium uses turbulent flow.

ALAMY

The right flow

TOP TIP Remember that perpetually swimming fish have high metabolisms. They’ll need more food and frequent feeds compared to their tank mates, and this can lead to a lot of pollution.

SHUTTERSTOCK

those around them as a barometer for how safe things are; if fish are frenzied and look like they’re trying to escape something, that screams ‘predator’ to nervous prey species. Active swimmers also have little concept of territories and boundaries. As their own ranges are ever shifting and never confined, the idea that an aggressive cichlid wants to defend a third of an aquarium is alien to them, and they will keep blundering across the lines, over and over, to the detriment of both themselves and the poor fish trying to defend its patch. Bottom-dwelling rheophiles are often equally as obvious at a glance, but their bodies are different in shape to the mid-water swimmers. Examples include loaches like Sewellia, and goby-shaped cichlids like Blockheads. Rather than swim against the flow, these fish reduce drag as much as they can and try to get under the flow. Many bottom-dwelling rheophiles have tiny swim bladders, making them ‘heavier’ in the water. Some have adapted fins on their underside, which they use as suckers to cling to rocks. Others have powerful suckermouths that they can use to cling and feed at the same time. If you’re going to keep rheophilic fish, it’s worth keeping them right. And that means you need to consider three key areas: flow delivery, oxygen, and waste management.

Basics including the circular flows needed for a river set-up. The XF150 model starts at 5,500 lph at the lowest setting, up to almost 19,000 lph at full power. It attaches to the tank glass with a magnetic holder. The market is alive with flow pumps, mostly designed for marine tanks. Models in the Fluval Sea range start at a flow rate of 1000 lph, up to 5,200 lph, and attach to the glass via a sucker. Hydor’s Koralia range of flow pumps start with flows as low as 900 lph, up to a high of 12,500 lph, and connect via a magnet to the glass. Many movement pumps can be used with a controller to switch them on or off at preprogramed times or, in high-end models, to adjust flow rates throughout the day. As opposed to movement pumps or a gyre, powerheads only draw water from one set area. The drawback here is that they can suck up and kill fish — something movement pumps will not do. They also have a much lower flow-to-wattage ratio than movement pumps, making them expensive to run. But, unlike movement pumps, powerheads can be attached to a river manifold design to create a true laminar flow.

. Yangtze River in China

filters (foams and sponges) clog relatively quickly. It can be hard to spot the reduced flow coming from the filter with multiple pumps running. If the flow is impaired for a while, it will have a drastic effect on the biological filtration, potentially leading to ammonia and nitrite build-up.

one end of the tank, the best approach is to construct a river manifold. This will provide a continuous, linear flow at the height you require. When it comes to pumps, Maxspect’s Gyre is designed explicitly to create flow,

Get the pump right

ABOVE: Maxspect’s Gyre. LEFT: Maxijet powerhead.

TELEOCICHLA — Cylindrical cichlids These fish live close to substrates and like a moderate water flow. www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

STURISOMA — Whiptail catfish Often found hanging onto fallen wood in rivers, these prefer moderate to high flows.

ALAMY

SHUTTERSTOCK

RIGHT: Fluval Sea flow pump.

RADEK

For open swimming rheophilic fish (certain barbs, characins, Barilius and so on) you want to try to create a laminar flow in the region of 10 to 15 times the tank’s volume every hour. So, a 200 l tank would need a flow of 2000 to 3000 lph. Because you want a predictable flow, it would be best to source all the pumps at one end of the tank to create a circular, undisturbed flow. For bottom-dwelling rheophilic fish (loaches and some catfish) you can go for either laminar or turbulent flow, though laminar is preferred for most. Aim for a flow of 10 to 20 times the aquarium’s volume every hour. So, for a 200 l tank, you need a flow of 2000 to 4000 lph. That may sound incredibly high, but even this is considerably slower than wild fish would be used to. While you can create a circular flow for bottom dwellers using multiple pumps at

STEATOCRANUS — Blockhead cichlids Heavyset bottom dwellers that live over and between rounded stones. Like moderate to high flows.

83

Improve your Fishkeeping

ALAMY

HAPP HEAL N Make a new year’s resolution to improve your fishkeeping in 2018. One small change can make a big difference... WORDS: DAVE HULSE, TECHNICAL CONSULTANT AT TETRA Dave Hulse is Tetra’s Technical Consultant. He has 20 years of experience within the aquatics industry, and has been involved in education and training for the last 15 years, having taught at both Sparsholt and Reaseheath Colleges. He is currently based at the School of Life Sciences at Keele University where he turns his hand to other subjects in the biological sciences — although he usually manages to crowbar a piscatorial reference in at some point! With such a varied and rich background in aquatics, Dave brings a wealth of experience to support Tetra and its customers.

84

Many of us start the new year by making a pledge to change our lives in some way whether it’s to lose weight, stress less or clean the house more often. However, for fishkeepers, getting your aquarium or pond in the best shape could be the most rewarding resolution to make. Here are my top tips for 2018.

Record water chemistry data Water chemistry parameters change over time. Carbonate hardness, which balances the pH levels, declines in all closed fishkeeping systems, and close monitoring of ammonia and nitrites gives vital feedback on the health of the biological filter bacteria. Many fishkeepers reach for the water test kits only when problems begin to arise but this is too late for the fish and can result in health

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Health If your sockets look like this, sort them out!

ALAMY

small amounts of food throughout the day rather than eating full meals. In addition to storing food, the stomach is also the site of protein digestion by enzymes. For carnivorous fish, taking large, protein-rich meals infrequently requires their stomach to expand and accommodate the meal and to enzymatically digest the protein. Research has shown feeding tropical community fishes little and often leads to more food being digested. This in turn means less waste leading to less water pollution.

Help pond plants beat algae Algae is the scourge of garden ponds but it can be beaten if attacked early in the growing season and on several fronts. Algae loves the increasing day length and warmer water temperatures. Have a new UV clarifier bulb ready, clean the quartz sleeve in your UV unit and add a preventative dose of algaecide. Give pond plants the best possible start in spring to help them outcompete algae for the available nutrients and sunlight. Repotting plants in new aquatic compost and adding a liquid fertiliser will allow them to come out of winter dormancy and into spring in peak condition.

issues. If tested regularly problems can be nipped in the bud before catastrophe arises, which is why professional aquarists maintain water chemistry logs of all their systems. Although this is a legal requirement in public aquaria, it’s a great routine for fishkeepers to get into, as it will alert you to any changes. Tetra have developed an app meaning your smart device can do all this for you. Simply dip one of the 6 in 1 test strips into the tank or pond water, take a photo of the strip and let the device do the rest. The app will interpret the values for you and most importantly, it will store the data allowing you to observe the trends. Easy!

Upgrade to a larger tank If you have the space and money, upgrading your aquarium will give you more stable water chemistry, extra swimming space for your fish and increased aquascaping opportunities.

Don’t always trust the internet

I searched ‘treat aquarium whitespot’ and the first result told me to ‘use aquarium salt at one Keep an eye on expiry dates teaspoon per gallon.’ So, what’s wrong with this advice? Salt is effective against protozoal Food that is past its expiry date will lack infections, but at a dose much higher than nutrients and will be unappetising to the fish. specified here. Also, the whitespot parasite Also, once the freshness seal is broken, the shows much resistance. The advice made no decay of these volatile nutrients accelerates, mention of side effects — many especially if the food is stored in a softwater fish are salt intolerant, warm, damp place. At Tetra, we and it’s good way to kill off most can guarantee that unopened aquarium plants! Finally, no food will have the specified reference was made to the concentration of vitamins, diagnosis of the disease and what minerals and types of oils for the cause of the problem might be. happy healthy fish, if it’s kept in a A novice fishkeeper reading that cool, dry space. advice is unlikely to successfully Keep wiring tidy purge the infection from their tank, and may make matters far worse. Pumps, filters, heaters, lighting The internet is a great source of — the tank may look fantastic but information but there is rarely any what’s the wiring like? Overloaded editorial control, so be critical of power adaptors can overheat what you read online. Fact checking creating a fire hazard — check the and cross referencing is essential. A power rating of any extension good fishkeeping magazine or cables and multiway adaptors you are using, and ensure they are not Only buy enough fish book, written by experts and overloaded. Coiling power cables food to last you six reviewed by other experts puts you in much safer hands. look neat, but can also overheat if months at a time.

Most community fish digest their food more effectively when fed little and often.

NEIL HEPWORTH

If you want to beat algae in your pond this summer you’ll need to start before spring.

the current is sufficient. Use cable tidies and shorten power cables where possible to keep wiring neat and organised.

Feed little and often Most community fish lack a stomach in their alimentary canal meaning they forage for

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

85

TIME TO STEP OFF THAT TRE ADMILL Press pause once in a while and curl up with your favourite magazine.

To find out more about Press Pause, visit;

pauseyourday.co.uk

Fishkeeping Answers Send your questions to PFK and you’ll receive a personalised reply from one of our top experts. Remember to include as much information as you can about your set-up — a photo is useful too. There’s a box of goodies from Tetra for the letter of the month.

OUR TEAM OF EXPERTS TRISTAN LOUGHER works in aquatic retail and has sold marines for 15 years. He has written books and taken part in research projects. Tristan works at Cheshire Waterlife. BOB MEHEN has been keeping fish since the 1970s and has a particular passion for catfish. He helps to moderate the PFK website forum and excels at advising and guiding new keepers.

TROPICAL

Q. What’s wrong with my fish’s eyes? One of my tetras has a problem with its eyes, which seem to be protruding more than usual. Could this be pop-eye? If so, what should I do? C. DEAL, EMAIL

My first port of call here would be Epsom salt. It’s a mild laxative, which helps with bloating, but also with things like pop-eye. Use 1-3 teaspoons per 20 l of aquarium water, mixing it up first in a little warm water in a jug. Add it to the tank in stages across, say, 20 minutes, pouring it somewhere near the filter outlet so that it gets evenly mixed across the aquarium. You can also raise the temperature of the tank by a degree or two (within the limits of the species being kept, of course) to speed things up. While Epsom salt isn’t a miracle cure, it’s quite good at

A

helping otherwise healthy fish get themselves sorted out. Of course, you want to ensure such fish are also getting a good diet and plenty of water changes (adding the appropriate amount of Epsom salt to each new bucket of water). Pop-eye is a swelling behind the eyeball that causes it to push out. As a rule-of-thumb, if a single eye is pushed out, it’s often an injury, and the Epsom salt will work nicely. If both eyes are popped out, there’s a good chance that bacterial infection or severe environmental stress are to blame, and antibacterial medications will also be required. Pop-eye is rarely lethal in itself, but is a good sign that something is amiss, and warrants further investigation. NEALE MONKS

GEORGE FARMER is a world-renowned aquascaper. He co-founded the UK Aquatic Plant Society and now works as a freelance aquatic specialist. NATHAN HILL is PFK’s features editor. He’s worked as a public aquarist, managed a number of aquatic stores and has lectured in aquatics.

NEALE MONKS has kept fish for over 20 years. He has authored a number of fishkeeping books and has a particular passion for brackish species.

PHOTOMAX

JEREMY GAY has kept fish most of his life. He’s managed an award-winning store and is a former PFK editor. He’s now Evolution Aqua’s business development manager.

Pop-eye is often the result of bacterial infection or environmental stress.

Send your questions to us at: Fishkeeping Answers, Practical Fishkeeping Magazine, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA, or email them to us on questions@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

Expert aquarium care with our digital water test app, download here: www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

87

Fishkeeping Answers TROPICAL

Q. Can my fish recognise me? to them, but you have to be a bit careful before saying that it clearly knows who’s looking after it. If the owner is the person who turns on the lights, moves carefully around the tank, or even picks up the food container, then perhaps that person’s behaviours are being recognised, rather than their face. Justifying the belief that fish can’t learn faces is the fact that their brains lack the neocortex that allows mammals to perform the sophisticated processing required to recognise a face. However, some recent studies are challenging this view, providing clearer evidence that some fish can recognise faces. They might not be doing it in the same way as we do, but are able to do it nonetheless, perhaps by spotting patterns rather than actually knowing what a face should look like. The evidence for this has come from archerfish, the brackish-water fish sometimes kept by aquarists that are famous for their ability to spit at insects above the

I recently conducted a homemade ‘experiment’ to see if my fish could tell me apart from the rest of my family. They didn’t do what I thought they would, as they reacted in the same way to every member of my family. Can aquarium fish such as gouramis recognise faces? FINN MURRAY, EMAIL

The ability of fish to learn faces has been discussed many times, even in scientific literature. Konrad Lorenz was probably the first person to really document in depth the complex behaviours of aquarium fish. He kept and studied species such as cichlids, and if you get the chance to read his popular account of animal behaviour, King Solomon’s Ring, you’ll probably come across a few interesting behaviours that you’ve witnessed yourself. That said, the general consensus among animal behaviour experts has been that, while many fish clearly learn to recognise human beings as potential sources of food, whether they can tell one person apart from another is more open to question. Even if we all look the same to them, the simple fact that a wild-caught fish can overcome its fear of a big hulking monster like us is pretty impressive, and demonstrates that many fish are much smarter than people think, being able to adapt their behaviours to the peculiar conditions of aquarium life. Things are a bit different when we’re talking about farmed fish though, particularly those species, like goldfish, that have been as thoroughly domesticated as cats and dogs. To a goldfish, humans are a normal part of their world, and begging for food is as natural to them as squirrels climbing trees to find nuts. Some goldfish owners say that their fish ignores other people but responds

A

waterline, thereby knocking their prey into the water and getting at food that other fish can’t reach. Archers are certainly smart fish, accounting for refraction before they spit — which sounds more like a physics A-level question than something a fish would do! Scientific experiments have also shown archerfish learn that if spitting at photos of certain faces gets them a reward, they’ll spit at the right face even when presented with a second face of similar size, colour and brightness. It’s impressive stuff, and difficult to explain given the relatively simple structure of the fish brain when compared with ours. The sort of experiment you’re doing at home is ‘citizen science’ of the best sort, collecting data that will help scientists to build up the big picture. What I suggest you focus on is controlling the other variables, so that you perform what’s called a ‘fair test’. In other words, try to keep everything the same except the variable you’re changing — the food-giver.

These snakeheads certainly seem to be reacting to the presence of their owner...

LETTER OF THE MONTH

NEIL HEPWORTH

Finn Murray wins a box of Tetra goodies: 100ml TetraMin and TetraPro Colour foods, Holiday Food, Pleco Algae Wafers, FunTips Tablets, 100ml SafeStart, EasyBalance and AquaSafe water treatments and Tetra Test 6 in 1.

Everything you need for healthy fish 88

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

POND

Goldfish will often actively ‘beg’ for food when a human approaches.

Q. How big should I make my vegetable filter?

SHUTTERSTOCK

I have a 4,000 gal garden pond which is filtered through a Nexus 210 filter, and has a skimmer running to a Kockney Koi three bay and vortex filter box. The pond contains a mixture of Koi and goldfish. I would like to build a vegetable filter to run off the other filters but am not sure how big I would have to make this in order for it to be beneficial to the water quality. Please could you offer some advice?

Have everyone move at the same speed, hold their faces close to the tank for the same amount of time and at the same distance, maybe even put on a dressing gown or something so you all look like you’re wearing the same thing. The only thing you change is who gives them food. I guess you’d need to do this for a while, at least a week or two, and then see what happens. Basically, what you’re doing is changing just a single variable — who offers food — and making sure the fish have a chance to learn who’s who. Crucially, it avoids the problem mentioned earlier that the fish might be learning about the behaviour of the food-giver rather than his or her face. It may well be that face-recognition is something that occurs patchily in the group of animals we call fish, some of them having the skill, and some of them not. So, persist with your experiment, and if you can, let us know how things turn out! NEALE MONKS

DAVE FLOWERS, EMAIL

The size of the vegetable filter you build is entirely up to you. It looks as though you have the biological filtration side of things already taken care of, so I’m guessing that you’re considering the addition of a vegetable filter to mop up nitrates and phosphates and help naturally to fight off algae..? I’d consider anything upwards of 60cm/24in square (and that’s planted) as a decent sized vegetable filter, but if you have sufficient space you could go for something of 90cm/36in square or larger. If it makes things easier and you have room, one of the black preformed pond vats at 6 x 4ft would make a great vegetable filter as well as increasing your pond volume slightly. The key with a vegetable filter is to plant it with fast-growing oxygenators, marginal and floating plants. Then remove the excess plant growth to permanently remove all those nutrients that the plants have locked inside them. This will also encourage lots of new plant growth, resulting in more nutrient uptake.

A

JEREMY GAY

Julidochrom is have bee n shown to recognis e the faces of their own family members.

Join us on Facebook and Pinterest: www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

A vegetable filter will help deal with nitrates and phosphates.

Tetra UK 89

Fishkeeping Answers Fuzzy dwarf lionfish are quite short-lived, but have a high fecundity.

Q. Can I keep some mini lions? Is it possible to keep Fuzzy dwarf lionfish in pairs in an aquarium? If so, is there anything I need to bear in mind? How do I sex them and what size of tank would be preferable? MIKE SCOTT, EMAIL

Lionfish might not be the first species we think of when considering marine fish pairs for the aquarium, but they can and do spawn in captivity, so keeping a pair of Fuzzy dwarf lionfish, Dendrochirus brachypterus, is perfectly possible. The challenge is to obtain a pair, and due to the lack of obvious external characteristics in the smaller individuals more commonly imported for the hobby, this invariably involves acquiring two or three and growing them on together in the hope that you have at least one male and one female. Even when pairs are achieved they spend little time together, apart from during courtship and spawning. These are quite short-lived lionfish, with around three years being the average. However, their short lifespans are offset by a high fecundity, which is achieved by specialisations to the ovaries of the f emale, enabling her to be readying another batch of eggs when one is ready for imminent release. So, if you can get a pair, expect regular production of gelatinous egg masses. A tank of around 200 l could easily house a pair of these fish in the long-term, as they

A

are not very active unless it’s feeding time. This isn’t an aggressive species towards tank mates, but males may be intolerant of same-sex individuals in the same aquarium, particularly if the tank is relatively small. The greatest issue is their ability to swallow tank mates, notably fish and shrimp, up to half their own size or more. Keeping them well fed

reduces this risk substantially. The Fuzzy dwarf lionfish has venomous spines, but these should not cause too many issues unless you happen to be allergic to the venom. It hurts, but it’s bee-sting levels of pain — and in those instances where it does occur, it’s usually the aquarist who’s to blame. TRISTAN LOUGHER

Males may be intolerant of same-sex individuals in the aquarium.

SHUTTERSTOCK

ALAMY

MARINE

Everything you need for healthy fish 90

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

TROPICAL

SHUTTERSTOCK

Q. How do I make rainwater safe?

Most rainwater benefits from the addition of buffering chemicals. A few months ago I decided to have a shot at breeding my fish. Unfortunately, after using rainwater to replace the water I’d removed, I suffered a series of deaths. I’ve done many water changes over the intervening weeks to bring everything back to safe levels, but it has taken a while. How do I detoxify rainwater to use in aquaria so this doesn’t occur again?

Your guttering should be clear of decaying leaves and other debris.

NATHANIEL BULLOCK, EMAIL

Rainwater is a viable substitute for reverse-osmosis or demineralised water, but it isn’t quite pure water. It certainly shouldn’t be used ‘as is’ for any aquarium. There are two issues to consider. The first is that rainwater (or RO, or demineralised water) contains no buffering chemicals. This means the background acidification that occurs in most aquaria will quickly cause the pH of the system to plummet. Normally aquarists will add some sort of buffer (often called Discus Salts) to the water to prevent this. By adding the buffer you create something more akin to the soft, acidic water that you’d find in the Amazon or Congo. Alternatively, if you only need moderately soft water (say, around 10˚dH, pH 7.5) then mixing rainwater with hard, alkaline tap water at a ratio of around 50:50 should create those sorts of water conditions without any additional expense. Simply by halving the amount of general and carbonate hardness in the bucket you’ve created water that’s soft enough for nominally soft-water community fish to thrive and for the more adaptable of them to happily breed. The second issue with rainwater is that it can pick up toxic chemicals at various stages. Airborne pollution can be a problem if you live in an urban or industrial area. Chemicals used to treat certain types of roofing can be another source of trouble, primarily flat roofs and other types where sealants of various kinds need to be used to keep the roof watertight. Ordinary slate and brick roofs should be fine though. Some plant leaves contain poisons, but there’s also the risk that any herbicides used in the garden end up in the rainwater, should leaves be blown into the gutters and then get washed into the Ensure your water butt is water butt. drinking water safe — and NEALE MONKS

SHUTTERSTOCK

A

Rainwater dos and don’ts DO use a drinking water-safe water butt. DON’T collect water from any roofs other than those incorporating non-toxic roofing materials — slates and brick tiles being the obvious examples. DO keep your guttering clean, and empty out the butt regularly. The less decaying muck in the system, the better!

SHUTTERSTOCK

DO filter the water through activated carbon to remove any remaining chemicals in the rainwater. Get an internal canister filter, load it with carbon, and leave it running in a large covered bucket of rainwater before use. A filter rated at 480 lph (like the Eheim Aquaball 60) will ‘turn the water over’ in a five-gal bucket about 21 times in an hour. That should provide ample opportunity for fresh carbon to work its magic! DO add water conditioner to all new water, even if half or more of it is rainwater. Good quality water conditioners will not only neutralise ammonia (which will be produced by decaying leaves or even dead animals in the water butt) but also render heavy metals safe too, thereby adding another level of protection. DON’T use rainwater ‘as is’. If you prefer not to mix it with tap water, some sort of Discus buffer will be necessary, simply to provide the stable pH necessary for healthy fish.

clean it out regularly.

Expert aquarium care with our digital water test app, download here: www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

91

Fishkeeping Answers TROPICAL

NEIL HEPWORTH

Q. Why are my Dwarf gourami dying? My 170 l tank was set up at the beginning of September. It has a gravel substrate, rocks, bogwood and some plants at the back. I am running it at 25°C, 7.2–7.6pH, a hardness of about 8°H and nitrate and other parameters all in acceptable regions. I change 10% of the water weekly. I introduced both blue and red Dwarf gouramis. They came from different suppliers — the blues about two weeks after the tank was set up and the reds in the middle of October. Although they seemed happy for the first few weeks, the blues started to decline and all of them died over

a six-week period. The reds seem fine at the moment but I’m worried that something in the environment caused the first group of blues to die. Tank mates are a small Angel, five Golden barbs, six Cherry barbs, 12 Neon, eight Emperor tetras, five corys and a 15cm/6in Sailfin plec. Can you please advise? TIM JENKINSON, EMAIL

You don’t mention how many Dwarf gourami you added, but it sounds as though you introduced several of each variety. Despite their size, Dwarf gourami,

A

Trichogaster lalius, can be quite aggressive to one another, especially the males, and are usually best kept as mixed sex pairs. You could have a dominant red male that has harassed the blues enough to cause them to either become ill or fail to compete for sufficient food. Another possibility is ‘Dwarf gourami Iridovirus’, a rather nasty viral infection that has decimated stocks of these fish and made them a less straightforward community choice than they used to be. Some seem to have a natural immunity to this disease and it may be that the blue variants didn’t have this immunity but the red ones do. A final thing worth mentioning is your stock level, which is high for a 170 l tank, especially when the adult sizes of some of your fish are taken into account. The Sailfin plec, Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps, can grow to 45cm, so you will need to rehome it unless you are considering a much larger tank. This high a stock level in a relatively new tank could mean your filter is struggling to cope, which may be another contributing factor to the dead gouramis. They are also a relatively shy, subdued species and might be being stressed by the sheer number of tank mates, especially the more boisterous ones. My advice would be to closely monitor your water and to carry out larger water changes of 25% weekly if possible. Don’t add any more fish and keep a close eye on those you do have, particularly the gourami. BOB MEHEN

NEIL HEPWORTH

Despite their small size, male Dwarf gourami can be aggressive to one another.

Everything you need for healthy fish 92

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

TROPICAL

Tank cycling is far easier if you already have a mature filter or three...

Q. What is the safest way to cycle a tank quickly?

NEIL HEPWORTH

I would imagine that many people who read your magazine are serious fishkeepers who often need to s such, it would be good to get a clear ide cycle a tank quickly. There are so many p so much conflicting information out the the fastest and safest way to cycle a tan RICHARD, EMAIL

There are many ways to cycle a tank take differing amounts of time. This number of factors, aside from the source bacteria; things like water chemistry and play a critical role. Adding mature media from another tan the best and quickest ways of achieving a If you have enough media (be careful not much or you may cause a ‘mini-cycle’ in t mature tank) then there is no reason why stock sensibly small numbers of fish almo immediately. If you can’t take the actual m squeezing some mature foam media into up tank and allowing the filter to clear thi get the bacterial population established r quickly. You will need to add an ammonia feed this bacteria and get things balanced add the first fish, which may take anythin week to a month.

A

TROPICAL

Q. What can I keep with these tetras?

ucts are increasingly effective (unlike some of ancestors) and many claim to allow instant nstructions are followed correctly. from a mature tank will have little effect by will contain very little of the bacteria required Adding fish food to an empty tank will to cycle a tank; the beneficial bacteria will find he tank in due course and multiply using the od for sustenance. this classic method of fishless cycling then controllable, measured source of ammonia such mmonia solution or Waterlife ‘Biomature’ is ethods will need careful, close monitoring with ke sure that they are progressing as expected, nstant’ of them needing close scrutiny as at risk should anything go wrong.

Black widow tetras are a robust and hardy species.

I have a 35 l planted aquarium housing two Black widow tetras. Please could you tell me what other fish I could add to this set-up? The Black widow tetra, Gymnocorymbus ternetzi, is a hardy, generally peaceful, chunky tetra species that grows to around 6cm and is ideal for newcomers or those wanting something more robust than smaller species such as Cardinals or Neons. Like so many tetra species, they do best when kept in numbers — ideally six at the very least — and unfortunately, here is where you have a problem. Your tank is simply too small for a group of this size; something at least double your tank’s volume with appropriate dimensions to allow these active fish to move around is required. My advice would be if, at all possible, to rehome the two tetras (many shops will be happy to do this if they are healthy) and to re-stock the tank with something more size-appropriate. If you like tetras then have a look at the Ember tetra, Hyphessobrycon amandae, a truly tiny species which at no more than 2cm would easily allow you to stock a nice group of ten or so in your tank.

NEIL HEPWORTH

JOHN COOPER, EMAIL

A

Join us on Facebook and Pinterest: www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

NEIL HEPWORTH

Ember tetras can be stocked in small tanks.

Tetra UK 93

Fishkeeping Answers Prior planning makes upsizing reef tanks a painless experience.

NEIL HEPWORTH

MARINE

Q. How do I move my reef tank? I have a 100 l reef tank with corals, fish, crabs, shrimp and live rock. I’m upsizing the tank to a 200 l version with more live rock, an oversized skimmer and a Fluval 406. Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of to ensure a stress-free move for the inhabitants? PETER ALKER, EMAIL This should be a very straightforward operation; the key is planning everything out in advance. It’s going to be a lot easier if you can set the new tank up in a different spot to the original; if you’re putting the new tank in the same place, you’ll have a bit more juggling to do, and the livestock will need to be placed in suitable containers while everything is shifted around. In any case, get plenty of buckets, hoses, nets and all the other equipment you’ll need to hand, and have as much salt water mixed up in advance as possible. If the new tank is already in place, get this filled and as much of the equipment installed and working as possible. If not, just get everything ready so you can set it up with the minimum of fuss. Begin stripping the old tank down by first removing the fish and corals. These should be kept in buckets, food-safe plastic containers or polystyrene fish boxes with aeration. Keep the containers covered to reduce stress and prevent the fish from jumping. Next, start taking out the live rock; for a brief period, this can be simply kept damp, but again, it’s possible to maintain it in water if strong aeration is provided — it’s your call. Remove the sand either by syphoning or netting it out of the old tank. This can be kept damp in a bucket. If you’re moving the new tank into the old one’s position, you can do this and fill it with mature, preheated saltwater and connect the equipment.

NEIL HEPWORTH

A

Either way, you’re now in a position to stock the new system. Check the temperature and salinity — try to match these to the original tank water to minimise the acclimation time. Begin by adding the live rock, then the sand; it’s best to place the rock first, as this is more stable on the aquarium’s base than placing it on top of sand. The water may become a little cloudy while you’re setting up, so allow the tank to settle for a short while. Acclimate the livestock briefly; if you’ve matched the salinity and temperature to within a part per thousand or so, and a couple of degrees, just 10–15 minutes with acclimation with the new system water should be perfectly adequate. Finally, keep the lights off for the first few hours to minimise stress to the livestock. DAVE WOLFENDEN

Place the rock on the base of the tank before adding the sand. This will make it more stable.

Everything you need for healthy fish 94

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

TROPICAL

Q. What happened to my Neon?

The fading colours on the Neon tetra sounds like textbook ‘Neon tetra disease’, although in all fairness, this name may well apply to a Columnaris-like bacterial infection as often as it does the ‘true’ Neon tetra disease parasite, Pleistophora hyphessobryconis. In either case, there’s no treatment, and euthanasia is generally the best option. Let’s tackle the true version of the disease first. The classic symptoms are loss of colour, withdrawal from the school, weakness, and eventually death. While associated with Neons and other small tetras in particular, a wide range of other fish have been reported to occasionally suffer from it, including danios and angelfish. Given that

A

Pleistopho is highly c want to pr gy q g evidence that transmission can occur via cannibalism, and a dead or dying fish in your aquarium will certainly be viewed as a potential meal by the other fish. Hence removal and euthanasia is best. The ‘false’ version of the disease is believed to be caused by the same bacterium species, Flavobacterium columnare, implicated in the well-known disease misleadingly called Mouth fungus (or Columnaris). There are medications available for treating Mouth fungus, but the problem here is that by the time the Neon exhibits symptoms it is already so riddled with the bacterium that its internal organs are unlikely to respond well to standard medications. Healthy fish in good environmental conditions generally resist Columnaris without too much trouble, so let’s recap what Neons need in order to thrive. They’re low-end tropical fish, so something between 22–25°C suits them best. A low hardness of 1–10°H is ideal, though slightly harder water might be tolerated without problems. Keep pH in the range of 6–7.5 if possible. Neons are shy, gentle fish and want a quiet, shady tank with similar-sized tank mates. The bigger the group, the better your chances of success. But be ruthless about removing sickly individuals, and never buy Neons from tanks containing specimens displaying signs of Neon tetra disease. NEALE MONKS

PHOTOMA

I have a 100 l freshwater tank, stocked with Neon tetras, Endlers and two Nerite snails, and planted with Java fern and Anubias. Water parameters are fine, and until the other day I’d had no deaths since setting up the tank in February. Over the course of a week, one of my eight Neons had started to lose colour, and stopped shoaling with the others. I also noticed it was not breathing normally. The tetra was feeding, but that was its only normal behaviour — for the last two days it was hanging out at the top of the tank with the Endlers. I woke up this morning and it was nowhere to be found. I think it may have died, before being eaten by tank mates. What do you think happened? ALEXANDER MARCOS, EMAIL

Neons show loss should ing colour be removed .

PHOTOMAX

Neons thrive best in large groups.

Join us on Facebook and Pinterest: www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

Tetra UK 95

Buyer’s guide The BIG air pump test We compare 32 aquarium air pumps over a range of tank sizes, with some surprising results… WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: GABOR HORVATH

E

very fishkeeper should own an airpump. These practical and often inexpensive bits of kit can do far more than just run an airstone or open and close that treasure chest — they could save the lives of your fish in an emergency. While air isn’t something we necessarily associate with fish, they do need oxygen. Although some of them are able to take it directly from the atmosphere, the majority rely on their gills to extract dissolved oxygen from the surrounding water. Water’s maximum O2 ‘storage capacity’ depends on the temperature — cold water can hold more of this valuable gas.

NEIL HEPWORTH

Increasing the oxygen

96

In aquarium conditions the oxygen level is usually well below the saturation point, as the various biological and chemical processes are continuously consuming it. Plants can replenish some of the oxygen, but most of it comes from the atmosphere, through the surface of the water. It’s generally advised to create some sort of surface agitation to increase the contact area between air and water, to improve the efficiency of the above process. It’s worth mentioning that the same movement helps with the removal of CO2 as well — very useful in the general aquarium, but unwanted in a plant-heavy aquascape. What if more dissolved oxygen is needed, but the surface area of the water in your tank can’t be

increased any further? Well, you still can enlarge the ‘contact area’ by pumping air into the water to create bubbles. This has two advantages. Firstly, each of those tiny pearls has their own surface area upon which — while they are rising in the tank — a level of oxygen exchange takes place. Secondly, the rising bubbles cause surface agitation, which in turn increases the contact area between water and atmosphere. Even a small air stone can significantly increase the amount of dissolved oxygen and prove extremely helpful in emergency situations such as poisoning, disease treatments or during heatwaves. Safe to say, every aquarist should have at least one air pump on standby. Besides simply aerating the water, air pumps can fulfil a series of other important roles, and needn’t just be left on the bench awaiting their turn. They can run sponge filters and other air-driven devices, including protein skimmers. They can be used to create soft currents to prevent dead spots; to operate Artemia-hatcheries; to create decorative air curtain effects; or even to open and close that plastic treasure chest or clam! It isn’t complicated to build a complete airsupply system, one which is easily expandable and safe to use, with no electric cables dangling down. Plus, the initial costs are low — all you need is the right-sized pump, a central air pipe with taps, and a few metres of air line to reach every aquarium. PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

97

The BIG airpump test IR PUMP DOS AND DON’TS

hoos ng your pump If you don’t have a fish house (yet) you can still make good use of an air pump. Just make sure you choose one that’s the right size for your needs. OBased on my own experiments, for gentle aeration and moderate currents you would need to plan for around 40–120 l of air, per hour, per air stone, depending on the size of your tank. With a single bubbler running for decoration or moderate aeration purposes in a small (up to 50 l) tank, a pump of 40–80 lph capacity will suffice. OFor aquariums up to 100 l you would need 100–200 lph pumps. If you have even bigger tanks, use either a bigger air stone or several smaller ones. OShould you plan to add an air-driven filter, the situation gets more complicated. Based on my own tests a double sponge filter

needs 50–85 lph to operate efficiently, reaching the maximum flow rate at the top end of that range. Jet-lift requires lots of air, so if you run one or more of those, you really need a beefier pump. My DIY version needs 90–120 lph for optimal operation, but pushes through twice as much water as the regular air-powered filter. OOnce you have calculated the quantity of air needed, add at least 30% (there is always some loss at the valves, junctions or air stones) and you will have the right-sized pump. OIf you have several tanks, it’s usually more economical to run one or two powerful pumps instead of numerous smaller ones. In my fish house I use two slightly oversized air pumps connected to one system. Should one fail, the other would be able to operate the filters (at a lower flow rate) until the fault is fixed.

DON’T use the air pump inside the fish tank. They are not meant o be submerged! DO place the air pump above the water level to avoid water ackflow, which may occur in the case of an electricity shortage. If ou have no other choice, then at least use a one-way flow valve to revent accidents. DO keep a spare diaphragm set to hand. They have a habit of iling when the shops are closed, so buying a few in advance can e a lifesaver... quite literally! DO have a smaller air pump on standby. You never know when ou might need it. Think about medication, quarantine or oisoning. DO get a slightly bigger air pump than you think you may need. ’s good to have some extra air sometimes (well, always). O DON’T switch off the air pumps at night, especially if you are running air-driven filters. By doing so you might kill the useful bacteria in your filter media. O DO replace the air stones regularly. They get clogged-up over time, which negatively affects their performance. O DON’T throw away your air pump if the performance drops significantly. Often it’s only the diaphragm or the valve that needs replacing — which is much cheaper than buying a new pump! OYou should also take into consideration the depth of water to which the air has to be pumped. The deeper you go, the lower the amount of air the pump can deliver, as it needs to fight against the pressure of the water column. Remember that the maximum airflow indicated on the box is usually measured at the top of the water column. Sometimes the packaging will tell you the maximum depth as well, but this is not related to the maximum capacity in any way at all

Other manufacturers give the maximum pressure instead, indicated in MPa, mbar or psi. It’s easy to calculate the maximum depth from this figure, provided you know that 0.01MPa = 100mbar = 1.45psi is needed to push the air down to 1m under the surface. Therefore, a device with a 125mbar maximum pressure can reach 1.25m depth. Most of the pumps can cope with tanks of average height relatively easily, but choose wisely if you want to go deeper than 50cm.

TOP TIP

98

to the 150 l/min ‘hurrica makers’ that are able to dozens of aquariums. Other types of pump include those based on air compression. If you’ve ever had a flat tyre on your bike then you’ll be familiar with a bicycle pump. By moving the lever up and down the small piston in the cylinder presses the air out through the valve. Air compressor pumps work in a very similar way. They are usually highly efficient devices, capable of churning out large volumes — often exceeding 100 l/minute of air. These pumps are frequently used in Koi ponds or aquaculture (and in fish houses) due to their relatively low cost and compact size, but for the average home aquarium they would be overkill and way too noisy.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Types of air pump The pumps featured in this review are diaphragm pumps. These utilise the theory behind the operation of toilet pumps. However, instead of dirty water, they push out air through a one-way valve by resonating one or more rubber ‘bells’ or membranes. As there’s not much friction — the diaphragm is moved electromagnetically — the only noise comes from the humming of the magnetic coils and the resonance of the flexible plastic parts. They are affordable and require almost no maintenance (except for regular cleaning of any air intake filters), so it’s no surprise that they are so popular. Diaphragm pumps come in several sizes and configurations, from tiny, single-outlet 25 l/hour ‘whisperers’, suitable for nano tanks, right up

Check the T-junctions and air valves in your system regularly, especially when using transparent air lines. They can become clogged, sometimes completely blocking the airflow.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

HOW THE AIRPUMPS WERE TESTED hose — connected to a pump — under the opening. When the decreasing water level — pushed out by the pumped-in air — reached the top mark, I started my stopwatch. When the water level reached the one-litre mark, I noted the time. From this it was a simple calculation to arrive at the air output, in litres per hour. The test worked well Outputs were (the measured amount measured at was very close to the several depths. figure indicated on the box), so I prepared a more advanced test to measure the outputs at different depths. I cut off a piece of drainpipe which was 3cm shorter than the water depth in the butt. This ensured that the top was submerged, allowing me to move the upside-down measuring bottle above it without issue. Four 5mm diameter holes were drilled at 2cm, 22cm, 47cm and 72cm intervals from the top.

I cut the top off a plastic bottle and poured in some water. I marked the water level, topped it up with exactly one litre of water and made another mark. I filled up the measuring bottle and lifted it out upside down, until only a small part of the neck remained submerged. Then, while holding it with one hand, I moved the end of the air

A plastic bottle was used to gauge the basic air output of the pumps.

Then I connected four equal lengths of air hose to the pipe by pushing them through the holes. The bottom end was weighted down so that it stood vertically in the water. The air pumps were then connected to the system and their performances tested at the different depths. The timing was repeated three

times at every level and an average result taken. For the tests of the dual output pumps, four more holes were drilled at the same depths as the others, and the airline lengths were also the same. In their case the combined output of the two outlets is indicated in the comparison table overleaf.

BEST BUYS Tanks up to 180 l

Tanks from 200–400 l

Tanks over 400 l

Newa Wind NW22

Fluval Q series pumps

Tetra APS 400

Tanks up to 60 l

Tanks up to 25 l

Tanks up to 100 l

Tetra APS 50

AllPondSolutions AP-Nano

AquaEl Miniboost

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

99

The BIG airpump test THE RESULTS Some of the pumps performed way below their expected level, while others exceeded it by quite a margin. Interestingly, the underperformance mainly occurred with the larger, 200-500 lph output pumps of several brands. This seems to support the experiences of many of my fishkeeping friends; when it comes to air pumps, there can be significant discrepancies between batches.

O The Newa Wind pumps provide good output for very low electricity consumption. The actual measured airflow of the first three of the family was quite close to or even above the nominal value, but the performance of the NW3 was highly disappointing. This could be a one-off stumble, and on the whole these pumps were good, especially the NW22, which was my favourite in the range.

O All three Interpet air pumps tested were designed for nano or small tanks, so don’t expect too much from them. They are good for decorative bubbles, but the smallest of the line-up may struggle with just one air stone. The APMini would be my pick of the bunch.

O The other Italian brand in the test caused no surprises. The SICCE pumps delivered a steady flow of air. These were solid performers, so definitely worthy of consideration.

O The AllPond Solutions APS-Nano, as the name suggests, is another pump for tiny tanks, with a measured 27 lph output. This pump is extremely quiet, so could be used for that small tank next to your bed.

O The Aqua One Air O2 Pods catch the eye with their unique design. They look like Bluetooth speakers, so would easily blend into the contemporary environment. Luckily, they’re quiet as well, so won’t interfere with your music. A quirky air pump with a solid performance.

O The AquaEl Miniboost really punches above its weight, producing a surprisingly large amount of air from extremely low electricity usage. Ideal for moderately-sized tanks.

O The measured performance of the EHEIM Air Pump 100 was slightly below the expected level, especially considering the relatively high wattage it uses.

O The smallest AquaNova product — the NA-100 — was the weakest performer in the test, producing only 20% of the expected output. The flow control on the largest NA-450 didn’t work at all. The NA-200 is the safest bet of this trio, and a good budget buy for tanks of up to 150 l.

O On testing the SuperFish Air-Flow1, I had to check twice to ensure I’d read the stopwatch right — but this pump really did produce 60% more air than expected. This performance and the included free diaphragm makes it excellent value for money. Highly recommended. O The Aqua Air pumps from Maidenhead Aquatics could be the twin brothers of the above pump — they even come with the same branded spare diaphragms. So, no wonder the performance was also almost identical. An affordable and wise choice for those on a budget.

O One of the biggest surprises of the test was the poor performance of the larger JBL ProSilent air pumps. While the small a50 was right on the money, the a200 and a400 really disappointed with their low outputs. They look beautiful though… O With the futuristic-looking Tetra APS range, the APS 150 and APS 300 pumps were slightly off the scale, while the results of the APS 100 and APS 400 were on a par with, or slightly above, the competitors. The star of the line-up is the APS 50, the best performing 50 lph pump here by a mile.

100

O The Fluval Q Series pumps, produced huge amounts of air and quite literally blew away most of the competition. They may not be the smallest or the most economical in terms of electricity consumption, but these are definitely the ones to buy if you need reliable and constant power.

Contacts O Tetra: tetra-fish.com O Fluval: uk.hagen.com O All Pond Solutions: allpondsolutions.co.uk O Aqua Nova: novaeuro.com O Maidenhead Aquatics: fishkeeper.co.uk

O Eheim: eheim.com O Superfish: aquadistri.com O Interpet: interpet.co.uk O Newa: newa.it/en/ O Sicce: sicce.com O Aquael: aquael.pol/en/ O JBL: jbl.de/en/

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

HOW THE PUMPS COMPARED * Please note that the Fluval factory maximum flow figures are measured at 45cm depth.

PUMP

FACTORY MAX. LPH

5cm

25cm

50cm

75cm

MEASURED AT 5CM/NOMINAL

EXTRAS

WATTAGE

PRICE RRP

AllPond Solutions APS-Nano

27

24

19

15

10

88%

Free air hose and air stone

0.9W

£10.00

Interpet NeoAir

45

35

27

18

9

78%

1.5W

£23.99

Tetra APS 50

50

85

76

69

58

171%

Free control valve

2W

£17.90

JBL ProSilent a50

50

56

47

42

32

112%

Free air hose and air stone

3W

£14.79

Interpet APMini

60

68

60

50

43

113%

SICCE Airlight 1000

60

56

45

26

8

93%

Interpet AVMini

75

48

43

42

39

63%

Free air hose and air stone

Newa Wind NW1

90

85

61

41

18

95%

Free air hose and air stone

2W

£16.99

Aqua Air air-pump 1

96

161

146

109

81

167%

Spare diaphragm

2W

£13.99

SuperFish Air-Flow1

96

156

133

113

92

162%

Spare diaphragms £3

2W

£10.99

EHEIM Air Pump 100

100

92

80

64

56

92%

3.5W

£28.00

AquaNova NA-100

100

24

20

12

7

24%

2.5W

£10.99

Tetra APS 100

100

94

85

79

68

94%

2.4W

£24.05

AquaEl Miniboost

100

119

99

83

63

119%

1.8W

£9.99

Aqua One Air O2 Pod 100

100

94

84

64

51

94%

Free air hose

2.5

£16.99

Newa Wind NW2

110

108

99

82

65

99%

Free air hose and air stone

2W

£19.99

Fluval Q0.5

120*

184

179

173

167

144%*

4.5W

£19.44

Tetra APS 150

150

105

102

96

85

70%

3.1W

£30.65

AquaNova NA-200

200

186

164

145

89

93%

2.7W

£13.49

Newa Wind NW22

200

238

202

164

133

119%

Free air hose and air stone

2.5W

£24.77

Newa Wind NW3

200

164

156

143

118

82%

Free air hose and air stone

3.5W

£23.99

SICCE Airlight 3300

200

224

188

164

138

112%

4W

£26.99

JBL ProSilent a200

200

75

68

60

53

38%

Free air hose and air stone

3.4W

£30.45

Fluval Q2

216*

313

281

245

195

113%*

Repair kit £10-15

4.5W

£36.70

Fluval Q1

240*

275

267

254

243

106%*

4.5W

£28.29

Aqua Air air-pump 2

240

249

198

154

121

104%

Spare diaphragms

4W

£19.99

Aqua One Air O2 Pod 240

240

214

212

183

148

89%

Tetra APS 300

300

259

248

228

222

86%

Free control valves

4.5W

£38.60

AquaNova NA-450

400

222

184

155

140

56%

3.8W

£19.99

Tetra APS 400

400

383

367

340

292

96%

Free control valves Spares kit: £6-9

4.5W

£46.00

JBL ProSilent a400

400

197

177

151

125

49%

Free air hose and air stone

5.5W

£43.95

Aqua Air air-pump 4

600

506

394

307

230

84%

Spare diaphragms

8W

£34.99

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

£17.99 1.8W

Free control valve

Free control valve

£13.99 £22.49

101

PFKNewGear

Nathan Hill reviews the latest fishkeeping products.

Seneye Magnetic Holder Pro I love reviews where I can be brief. Pretty much everything you need to know about this Seneye holding device is right up there in the name. What you need to know: O It’s actually really smart. O It’ll hold through glass up to 16mm with ease. O Makes your tank look 70% more futuristic. O Considerably less annoying than the sucker version — I used to love coming in to the room and seeing my Seneye swinging about in the water, like a bear’s arm fishing for salmon. O Seneye slips in and out perfectly. O Not the cheapest thing out there. At £29.99, this is a product that’s probably pitched at the more image conscious reefkeeper or planted tank aquascaper, but if looks are your thing, then get involved. I’d probably go the extra mile and keep cleaning it of any encrusting algae in a reef aquarium, but that’s just me. Price: £29.99 (Seneye device not included). More info: seneye.com

Zoo Med Floating Betta Log Zoo Med is definitely taking a lead in weird products. A while back I reviewed the Zoo Med Leaf Hammock, which, while appearing to be quirky-on-the-brink-of-bonkers, turns out to be a massively selling great product. Now it’s the turn of a log. The first thing — the only thing, perhaps — that marks this out from any other resin decor you might see on sale is that it floats. Usually the exact opposite of what we want our decor to do, this rounded, brown and alarmingly unconvincing hoop of ‘wood’ bobs about on the surface. Thing is, Betta LOVE these things. Well, Betta splendens males do, at least. I can’t vouch for other species. Much in the same way that cats can’t help themselves from climbing in to boxes wherever they see them, give a Fighting fish male something to claim as a territory near the surface, and he’ll take it. If you think about it, it makes sense. An obligatory air-breathing fish, which feeds from the surface, breeds at the surface, and spends most of its life at the surface is going to benefit from shelter at… the surface. To stop the thing careening around the tank like a raft down whitewater rapids, you want to have very little surface movement or flow in your tank.

102

If you happen to have a community tank and flow is unavoidable, then maybe use a little thread to anchor it to something. To top it all off, there’s even a hole in the top of this thing, so the Betta needn’t even leave the log to breathe. Moreover, he needn’t move outside to feed, as you can sprinkle food straight on top of him. Better still, he can use the log as a base of operations for spawning, building a bubblenest in the aperture on top, to hold eggs. Yeah, it’s odd, and if I’m honest I could make something similar with a piece of cork broken in to bits, and some superglue. If I wanted to be really basic, I’d just hack some drainpipe apart and stick a bit of polystyrene to it. But for what is currently a wide-open market, Zoo Med has the best-looking offering. You want the downside? Even if you’ve got a little water movement, and the tank is somewhere within audible range when you’re trying to sleep, you’d best be looking forward to that ‘dink, dink, dink’ sound as it gently bashes the side panes all night. If you’re a Fighter keeper, you’ll really like these things. It’s not huge either, at 7 x 7 x 9cm in size. Price: Around £10. More info: zoomed.com

CTICAL FISHKEEPING

Aquarium Systems Mega M A simple, straightforward range of products that work out tremendous value for money. Mega Media comes in three different grades of (predictably) small, medium and large. Each comes as a 500g portion, which doesn’t sound much but when it’s in front of you it’s huge. The packages are as long as my gangly arm, and at over six feet tall, I’m hardly short-limbed. The media is synthetic, and is tough to the touch. Unlike some media I’ve handled, this stuff feels substantial. It has some integrity, you can pull it and shape it like Play-Doh. I can get a handful of the large media, for example, and tear it up into 20 small bits. Then I scoop them all up into a ball, grind them together and they form a whole again. I’m not used to that. I’m used to media that pulls apart at the first bit of rough housing. The benefit of that? It means I can vigorously clean the stuff and re-use it, and that’s a claim that Aquarium Systems is making here. Once soiled, I can beast this stuff in hot water, blast it with a hose, do all I can to get it clean again, and it’ll be good for a second run. Not that I need to re-use it, of course. I’m only running a couple of 60cm tanks right now. There’s enough media here to see me through to 2025, I reckon. Being inert, there’s no chance of alteration of water chemistry, and it doesn’t leach anything, making it suitable for freshwater and marine use. If you’ve got a big marine sump, you’ll be able to fill it to your heart’s content — if that’s your approach. If you run external canisters on freshwater set ups, you’ll be set for years if you buy a pack of each size. As a bonus, the large media makes a really good spawning

substrate alternati Probably hiding pl fry, too. Excelle filter me sort of th Price: 50 medium More info: aquariumsystems.fr

Aquarium Systems A la Carte Reefmist food You know how you sometimes buy a bag of crisps, and when you open it there’s about 1cm of crisp down right at the bottom of the bag, and you literally need to get wrist deep just to pull one out? That’s what this stuff is like. 30g is not a big amount in a packet of this size. In a bag over 20cm tall (opened) my food barely gets up to 3.5cm on the ruler I’m jamming in to it. So what’s in it? Not a clue. The packaging claims micro and macro algae, phyto and zooplankton, and yeast, but doesn’t specify anything else. It has a real spirulina smell, so your guess is as good as mine. What I can say for sure is that it’s 40% protein, 10% fat, and 12% fibre. In reality? It looks a lot like the stuff I’m left with after I’ve gone hammer and tongs on a handful of flake food with my pestle and mortar. There are occasional flecks in it, something white that hasn’t crushed down in the manufacture stage — I’ve no idea if that’s deliberate or not. The pack comes with a pouch of silica gel inside to keep this powder really dry. Despite that, mine is heavily clumped together, though it separates easily enough with a little pinching. You’ll want to keep this pouch locked tight between uses if you don’t want it to spoil. It’s aimed at a range of marine organisms: anemones, stony and soft corals, fish, fanworms, clams, sponges, copepods, rotifers — you get the idea. It also suggests on the packaging that it can be used to enrich frozen foods, without specifying how exactly. Day to day use involves adding a quarter teaspoon per 80 l volume daily. There’s also a curious claim that “ReefMits (sic) activates also the nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria’s.” (sic) As both a writer and fishkeeper, I don’t know what troubles me more there. Anyway, it could be amazing. As I haven’t got a reef tank running at present, I can’t put it to the test personally, and feedback from actual users seems scant. It’s also quite pricey for 30g of food, so it had better have some amazing ingredients in there. Price: £15.99 for 30g More info: aquariumsystems.fr

103

PFKNewGear NATURAL DECOR

returns! It must have been around this time last year I received my first batch of Tannin botanicals, and since then, I’ve been preaching the benefits to anyone who’ll stay still long enough to listen. Maybe I’m coming at it through tinted glasses (see what I did?) because I’m already a convert, but when this new consignment turned up I couldn’t hold down my delight. For those new to Tannin goods, the packages arrive in fine form. The little touches help. Opening the box, the first thing I see is a sticker on the inside – ‘tint the world’. Your mood is lifted before you’ve pulled out the first bag. Whatever you order, it comes in individual clearly labelled, and with the wonderful caut human consumption! Do not ingest! Thanks about to scoff a load, washed down with a gla In each order you get a hessian bag, which i before. I thought it was something to soak th the amusement of Tannin owner Scott Fellm perfectly plausible theory for my error — we

suggested (Tannin is based in the USA). I have to confess, that’s probably right. Give me something that needs soaking, and a little hessian bag, and I’m filling in the gaps… Tannin’s product diversity is a million worlds away from the leaves you’ll pick up off the ground, or the huge sheets of Catappa offered in many stores. In fact, to make that point, I’m not even going to mention a leaf. This review will be for pods alone! Note that the prices given are for products alone and don’t incorporate freight from America.

bDried Casulo pods Okay, first up, don’t bother Googling any of the real identities remain a trade secret, so the nam freshly invented all the way. Casulo pods look a lot like big, fat, pea pods. T and hollow, and out of the packet they’re rigid a shoes and float like a lifeboat. Soak ‘em for a lo an hour simmering at least — and they soften u bb ‘Bl dd k’ i t d b

EEPING

`Dried Estalo pods Remember the film ‘Dune’ with folks running about in the desert, and giant worms leaping about eating people? These pods look exactly like the business ends of those worms. They need a long boil to get them to sink (45 minutes upwards) and even then they’ll leach some acid out in to the tank. Which is great! From a functional perspective, they don’t really do much. They’re too tiny for fish and shrimps to hide in. From an aesthetic perspective, they are great. Combine them with some Snapping Lampala pods, and a bed of leaves, and they make everything look a lot more uniform. If you’ve dabbled with bigger pods before, you’ll know n, look a bit These things on, making the s. o amazing as ano or pico set-up. — Ten. ).

_Dried Snapping Lampada pods Looking like miniature dried pears that have torn straight up the middle, I had to stop (almost slap) a co-worker who explained they hadn’t opened up fully and was about to crack one like a pistachio nut. These are absolute rotters to get sinking (mine, anyway), but well worth the near hour or so you’ll spend simmering them to get them to stay down. In rainforest regions, seed pods like these make up a big chunk of the scattered debris, so they look very much in place. Leaching seems minimal, so don’t expect a wine-red tank after adding a handful (besides which, you’ll lose much tannin during the simmering stage). Size wise, mine range from about 4cm up to about 7.5cm. O Package quantity — Six. O Price $5.00 (Around £3.75).

Tannin’s product diversity is a million worlds away from the leaves you’d pick up off the ground, or the Catappa offered in stores.

aDried Sino Xicara pods Far and away, the most ‘forced’ product in the Tannin range, these have a clean-cut opening that makes them look less natural than most. Apparently, these are pretty big in the frog world, and I can see why they’ve not been embraced too much by the aquarium world. For one, they don’t sink. Boil them all you like, they’ll keep on floating. You know what I do? Glue a stone to one side, then hide the stone just under the substrate. Benefits? Despite the clean cut, they look pretty cool. And they make awesome caves for smaller cave spawners. Got some cute little Betta species you need a natural cavern for? Right here. O Package quantity — Three OPrice $8 (Around £6).

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

105

P

Shoptour

This month takes us to shops in Dublin and Wembley.

Dublin Wembley

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: GEORGE FARMER AND NATHAN HILL

Seahorse Aquariums Address: Unit 3 St Joan’s Industrial Estate, Turnpike Road, Ballymount, Dublin 22, Ireland. Telephone: +353 1 459 5650. Website: www. seahorseaquariums.com Opening hours: Mon–Wed and Fri–Sat 9.30am–6pm; Thurs 9.30am–8pm; Sun 11am–6pm.

What is it?

Seahorse Aquariums is a large, well-established retailer based in Dublin, Ireland. Its owner and marine biologist, Kealan, has a background in seahorse conversation, hence the name. It stocks a huge range of freshwater and marine fish, inverts, aquarium plants and dry goods. The shop also has its own laboratory for diagnosing fish ailments, custom-building aquarium factory, breeding facilities, two quarantine facilities, a dedicated staff training and meeting room, and some of the best quality fish and displays you’re ever likely to see. It has a sister store in Galway and between the two stores employs 20 staff.

High points

You’re greeted on entry by an incredible L-shaped reef that’s probably one of the finest in Europe. I’ve seen my fair share of reef displays and this was something else. Each member of staff is clearly passionate and an expert in their own field, from aquascaping to breeding fish, high-end reef to marine biology. Every part of the hobby is very well catered for whether you’re an absolute beginner or seasoned pro. The shop is clean, well-presented with some inspirational displays covering most genres of fishkeeping. A clever addition is the second floor full of dry displays in a makeshift living room, which demonstrates how aquariums can fit into your own living space. Seahorse employs highly skilled and passionate

STAR RATING: Excellent 11111 106

Crosshatch trigger.

fish breeder, Ioan Micu, who supplies many of the shop’s rarer fish at highly competitive prices.

Low points

It’s almost impossible to pick any fault. Set aside plenty of time to visit the shop. I wish I had two days there, such was the sheer quantity of great livestock and inspirational displays. Pondkeepers will have to look elsewhere for livestock.

Verdict

I’ve visited a lot of shops all over the world in my time and this has to be my favourite so far. There’s something for everyone. I challenge you not to be impressed by this shop or its staff. Forget the Guinness Storehouse when you visit Dublin. This should be any fishkeeper’s number one priority!

Mantis shrimp.

Star rating

Tropical fish 11111 Discus 11111 Cichlids 11111 Catfish 11111 Oddballs 11111 Indoor plants 11111 Pond plants NS Koi NS Pond fish NS Fancies 11111 Indoor coldwater 11111 Marine fish 11111 Marine inverts 11111 Indoor dry 11111 Pond dry 11111 Freshwater inverts 11111 Labelling 11111

What stood out

(prices in Euros) G Iguana tetra €9.99 G Orange oto €9.99 G XL discus €199.99 G Blue Stiphodon goby €7.99 G Green laser cory €39.99 G Lemon orange Bolivian tetra €4.99 G Wild diamond tetra €7.99 G Freshwater moray eel €150 G Green peacock mantis shrimp €85 G Crosshatch triggerfish €2,500 pair G Flame dwarf parrot fish €550 G Pot-bellied seahorse €750

Iguana tetra.

Good 11111 Average 11111 Below average 11111 Poor 11111 Out of season OS Not stocked NS

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Magnificent tank displays abound here.

Stiphodon gobies.

Diamond tetra.

Tube anemone.

Pot-bellied seahorse.

Flame parrot cichlid.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

107

PFKShoptour Maidenhead Aquatics @ Wembley Address: The Greenhouse, Chilcot Nursery, Birchen Grove, Wembley, NW9 8RY. Telephone: 0208 2003545. Website: fishkeeper.co.uk Opening hours: Mon to Sat 9am–5:30pm; Sun 11am–5pm.

Low points

This is a long-established Maidenhead Aquatics branch that has evolved into a real catch-all superstore of aquatics, set over a huge indoor footprint. It’s a large one, for sure.

A couple of young ‘big boys’ lurk about in one or two tanks (Hydrocynus Tiger fish, Sorubim shovelnoses). Some marine inverts seemed a little staid and passé in the face of modern trends for exciting zoas and exorbitant frags. The pond side, by virtue of being indoors, looked sparse because it was winter at the time of our visit. Oh, and there was Dracaena on sale in the plant vats. Fear not, I swore at the manager for that one...

High points

Verdict

Different staff members cover different areas, and these guys are passionate about what they do, so speak to them. Ask them if any of the fish on sale were formerly theirs — one guy in particular here is a breeding wizard, while a few of the nicer fish spotted, when I asked, turned out to be fish that the staff had nurtured at home themselves. The tropical range is spread over several banks, conveniently (but informally) organised into sections of ‘community’, ‘community with caution’, and ‘specialist’. There’s a cracking selection of Angelfish, and Stendker Discus looking at their peak, and a smattering of wild and unusual imports really lifts the tropical house. Catfish and cichlid fans will have lots to choose from. Be sure to check out the display turtles, too.

The balance here is wonderful. I could send a newcomer with as much enthusiasm as I’d send an expert aquarist. This Wembley branch has been around long enough to explore what does and doesn’t work, and wise enough to play to its strengths while discarding any weak lines. Dry goods, trops, marines, coldwater, whatever — it’s all thoroughly represented.

What is it?

What stood out: G Stendker Pigeon blood Discus £80 G Amazon blue Angelfish £14.95 G L200 Green phantom £70 G Dwarf Pangasius £9.95 G Redhook Myleus (big!) £29.95 G Brochis multiradiatus (big!) £35 G Barbus fasciolatus £6.95 G Geophagus megasema £32.50 G Anomalochromis thomasi £8.95 G Yellow tang £99

STAR RATING: Excellent 11111 108

Brochis multiradiatus.

Pseudeutropius catfish.

Star rating Tropical fish 11111 Discus 11111 Cichlids 11111 Catfish 11111 Oddballs 11111 Indoor plants 11111 Pond plants OS Koi OS Pond fish OS Fancies 11111 Indoor coldwater 11111 Marine fish 11111 Marine inverts 11111 Indoor dry 11111 Pond dry 11111 Freshwater inverts 11111 Labelling 11111

There are plenty of dry goods in all areas.

Cherry shrimp.

Good 11111 Average 11111 Below average 11111 Poor 11111 Out of season OS Not stocked NS

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Barbus fasciolatus.

All sectors of the hobby are catered for, with individual staff having their own specialist areas.

Anomalochromis thomasi.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

There’s a great balance of fish in this big, established store.

Green phantom plec.

109

TOP of the SHOPS! Scotland

North East Northern Ireland

THE ROLL OF HONOUR Retailer of the Year Lincs Aquatics, Alford, Lincs. Runner up: Charterhouse Aquatics, London

TOP 40 (IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER)

North West

Yorkshire & Humberside

Republic of Ireland

East Midlands Wales

Online Retailer of the Year

London

AllPond Solutions Runner up: Charterhouse Aquatics

South West

Small Retailer of the Year Octopus 8 Aquatics, Brough, East Yorkshire Runner up: Aqua Design Aquatics, Skegness

East West Midlands

South East

Shrimp Retailer of the Year Seahorse Aquariums, Dublin Runner up: Wharf Aquatics, Pinxton, Notts.

REGIONAL South east Maidenhead Aquatics @ Windsor Runner up: Crowder’s Aquatics, Hampshire

South west Emperor Tropicals, Devon Runner up: The Aquatic Store, Bristol

TOP SPECIALISTS Marine Retailer of the Year Lincs Aquatics Runner up: Seahorse Aquariums, Dublin

Cichlid Retailer of the Year Wharf Aquatics, Pinxton, Notts. Runner up: Seahorse Aquariums, Dublin

Catfish retailer of the Year Seahorse Aquariums, Dublin Runner up: Wharf Aquatics, Pinxton, Notts.

Discus Retailer of the Year

Wales Maidenhead Aquatics @ Wenvoe Runner up: Maidenhead Aquatics @ Cardiff

London Charterhouse Aquatics, London Runner up: Wholesale Tropicals, London

East Midlands Lincs Aquatics, Alford, Lincs. Runner up: Wharf Aquatics, Pinxton, Notts.

Abacus Aquatics, Kent Aqua Design Aquatics, Skegness Aquahome, Leyland, Lancs. Aqualife, Leyland, Lancs. Aquatic Finatic, North Yorkshire Bow Aquatics, Devon Carrick Aquatics, Co Monaghan Charterhouse Aquatics, London Clearly Aquatics, Co. Down Crowder’s Aquatics, Hampshire Cuddra Aquatics, St. Austell, Cornwall Discovery Aquatics, Dundee DL Discus, Co. Durham Emperor Tropicals, Plymouth, Devon Ferrybridge Aquatics, Wakefield FishCove Aquatics, Wimborne, Dorset Fishkeeper Braehead Fishkeeper Coatbridge Fishkeeper Inverness H2O Habitat, Surrey Innovation Aquatics, Southampton Lanchester Aquatics, Co. Durham Lincs Aquatics, Alford, Lincs Maidenhead Aquatics @ Mere Park Maidenhead Aquatics @ Shirley Maidenhead Aquatics @ Wenvoe Maidenhead Aquatics @ Windsor New Concept Aquatics, Bonnybridge Octopus 8, Brough, East Yorkshire Pier Aquatics, Wigan, Lancs Real Reefs, Gloucs. Riverside Aquaria, West Lothian Seahorse Aquariums, Dublin Sweet Knowle Aquatics, Warks. Tank Terror Aquatics, Cornwall The Aquatic Store, Bristol The Waterzoo, Peterborough TriMar, Cornwall Wharf Aquatics, Pinxton, Notts. Wholesale Tropicals, London

North east DL Discus, Co. Durham Runner up: Lanchester Aquatics, Co. Durham

North West

DL Discus, Co. Durham Runner up: Devotedly Discus, East Sussex

Plant retailer of the Year

Scotland

East

Emperor Tropicals, Plymouth, Devon Runner up: Seahorse Aquariums, Dublin

Discovery Aquatics, Dundee Runner up: Fishkeeper Inverness

The Waterzoo, Peterborough Runner up: Amwell Aquatics, Soham

Pond retailer of the Year

Republic of Ireland

Yorks and Humber

Lincs Aquatics, Alford, Lincs. Runner up: Seahorse Aquariums, Dublin

Seahorse Aquariums, Dublin Runner up: Carrick Aquatics, Co. Monaghan

Octopus 8, Brough, East Yorkshire Runner up: Ferrybridge Aquatics, Wakefield

Northern Ireland

West Midlands

Clearly Aquatics, Co. Down Runner up: Exotic Aquatics, Belfast

Maidenhead Aquatics @ Mere Park Runner up: Maidenhead Aquatics @ Shirley

Aquahome Aquatic Centre, Lancs. Runner up: Pier Aquatics, Wigan

Oddball Retailer of the Year Wharf Aquatics, Pinxton, Notts. Runner up: Tank Terror Aquatics, Cornwall

NEXTMONTH

in the arch issue of

On sale January 17th 2018

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS.COM

CHERRY PICKING The stunning little Cherry barb is our fish of the month. Discover the appeal of this long-term community favourite. SHIFTERS AND SIFTERS We spotlight the bottom dwelling marine fish and invertebrates often added as substrate cleaners in the reef tank. Are they really as beneficial as we think?

NEIL HEPWORTH

ALAMY

NEIL HEPWORTH

GLOWING EMBERS Pretty, polite and perfectly proportioned — the fiery orange Ember tetra graces aquariums across the globe. Find out how to keep them in yours.

LET THE CAT OUT OF THE BAG! We look at some of the most under-rated community catfish out there.

Plus

O The wacky world of Victorian aquariums O Readers’ tanks O Coral warfare O New gear reviews O Step-by-step guides O Your questions answered by our experts

111

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

BRISTOL

LONDON

From plants to Cichlids, Stingrays to Snakeheads

14

The Aquatic Store Really does have it all! www.theaquaticstore.co.uk 01179 639120 28 North Street Bedminster Bristol BS3 1HW COUNTY DURHAM

LEICESTERSHIRE

Retailer of the year North East The only true aquatic Superstore, with over 250 stock tanks specializing in community, rare and unusual cold water, tropical and marine fish inverts and corals. Largest range of aquariums, dry goods, frozen and live foods and Tropical plants.

Fish Alive

www.leicesteraquatics.com

Leicester Aquatics

Opening hours weekdays 10.00 - 18.00, Saturdays 10.00 - 17.00, Sundays 10.00 - 16.00, Closed on Wednesdays

133 Dawes Road, London. SW6 7EA

0116 2709 610

Units 10 & 11, Dragonville Retail Park, Durham DH1 2YB Phone and fax: 0191 3843590

Tel: 020 7385 6005 www.thefishbowlltd.com

KENT

email: thefi[email protected]

OFFICIAL JUWEL STOCKISTS PLUS SPARES

ABACUS AQUATICS Voted one of the Best shops in the UK for the last 6 years

Aquatic and Pet Shop. Open 5 days a week 10am to 6pm. Closed all day Thursday and Sunday

Now open on Sundays For more details about the shop and our opening hours please visit our website

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

www.abacus-aquatics.co.uk 168 Halfway Street, Sidcup, Kent, DA15 8DJ 020 8302 8000 / [email protected]

Huge range of livestock in more than 600 tanks! TROPICAL - MARINE - POND & COLDWATER - REPTILES Six-time winner of top UK aquatic retailer

www.wharfaquatics.co.uk

LINCOLNSHIRE

Readers’poll

2017 ODDBALL RETAILER OF THE YEAR

Readers’poll

2017 CICHLID RETAILER OF THE YEAR

Tel: 01773 861255 Marine direct: 01773 811044 Reptile direct: 01773 811499

LINC

Open 7 Days - 65-67 Wharf Road, Pinxton, Notts. NG16 6LH (near M1 J28)

QUAT SA I CS

Classified To advertise here please call the sales team on 01733 366410

The Fish Bowl Ltd

LINCOLNSHIRE Hanger1 • Strubby Airfield Woodthorpe • Nr Alford • LN13 0DD

01507 451000

EAST YORKSHIRE Hedon Road • Burstwick East Yorks • HU12 9HA

01482 898800

SOUTH YORKSHIRE Great North Rd Doncaster • DN10 6AB

01302 711639

To all our customers – thank you for your support with the PFK Awards LARGE SELECTION OF • Aquariums • Fibreglass ponds • Working Water Features • Waterfall Display • Pumps

HUGE SELECTION OF • Koi & Ornamental Pond Fish • Marine Fish & Invertebrates • Tropical & Fancy Cold Water Fish • Pond & Tropical Plants

lincsaquatics-lincolnshire

Come & feed our friendly fish • Discounted Pond Liners • Lighting • Food • Ro-Water • Tropical & MarineMix • Treatments All fish are packed to travel anywhere in the UK

lincsaquatics-eastyorkshire

lincsaquatics-southyorkshire

YORKSHIRE

Here at DKP we specialise in producing bespoke fibreglass fish tanks for the discerning customer who wants the BEST for their fish. The DKP product range includes Filters, Bakki’s and Tanks 400, 450, 900 & 1500 gallons in rectangular with 700 & 800 gallons in circular but any bespoke size can be catered for including viewing windows.

www.denbykoiponds.co.uk 01773 863991/07773186198 [email protected]

SHEFFIELD’S LARGEST AQUATIC CENTRE

Rare breeds - Discus, L-number Plecs etc Over 150 aquariums and ponds Tropical, Coldwater & Pond 2700 Litre Malawi section

0114 231 0225 www.sheffieldaquatics.co.uk

SCOTLAND

www.lincsaquatics.co.uk

House of Pisces ~ Scotland’s largest aquatic superstore by far

LONDON

112

With over 1000 aquariums full of tropical, marine and cold water fish Huge range of aquariums, aquarium furniture and equipment at discount prices

Unit B/G, 207 Strathmartine Road, Dundee, Scotland, DD3 8PH

01382 832000 www.tropicalfish-scotland.com RS ONLY

RETA IL SHOPPE r all your Thank you fo 1967! e support sinc , London, E2 l Green Road 0 77292444 220 Bethna 02 x: 5356 Fa Tel: 020 7739

G TIMES

AY: CLOSED ● TUES, WED & FRI 10.30-6.00 ● SAT 10.00-6.00 ● SUN 10.00-2.0 0

ww.wholesaletropicalsaq uat

ics.co.uk

To advertise in the Practical Fishkeeping classified section please contact James Belding on 01733 366410 or email: [email protected]

FOR SALE

Don’t miss the next issue of

BUSINESS FOR SALE AQUARIUM RENTAL & SERVICE BUSINESS

Northwest area covered currently. 10 years accounts available. No storage required - vehicle included. Only 10 days per month required. O TE8YVRSZIV  KVSWW TVS½X

www.aquarist-classifieds.co.uk

On sale 17th Jan

£42,000

Call Jason 07703068545

NATIONWIDE DISTRIBUTORS

Barlows Aquatic Trading

INTERNET

www.

INTERNET

AQUARIUM MANUFACTURERS..supplying direct to the public at trade prices

.co.uk

T:01254 208245

EVERYTHING FOR THE AQUARIUM, PONDS AND REPTILES, TOP BRANDS AT ROCK BOTTOM PRICES.

EBO

HUGE SELECTION OF GOODS, FROM ALL MAJOR BRANDS LOYALTY POINTS SCHEME 5 STAR RATED SERVICE AND AFTER SALES

FINANCE AVAILABLE ON ALL ORDERS OVER £300.

FRIENDLY AND PROFESSIONAL ADVICE

OK Ring: 01254 388815 www.barlows-aquarium-supplies.com e mail: [email protected]

or call in and see us at: Brisol Works, Mount St., Accrington, Lancs BB50PJ

WHOLESALERS

1000’S OF PRODUCTS IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE DESPATCH FREE NEXT DAY DELIVERY ON ORDERS OVER £50!

 HiVcYVgY h^oZh [gdb hidX` BVYZidbZVhjgZ ;^aigVi^dcheZX^Va^hih###hjbeh!l^Zgh!XdbWh! e^eZ! ejbeh ZiX#### C:L##EaZXdÆdliVc`h!WgZZY^c\XjWZh di]Zg h^oZh A^`Zjh dc ;gZZXdchjaiVi^dcVcYYZh^\c FAC

fb.com/completeaquaticsuk @completeaquatic pinterest.com/aquaticsuk

Fluke-Solve TM

Established 1973 55 John Street, Porthcawl, CF36 3AY Tel: 01656 784646

www.aquariumgardens.co.uk 01480 450572 [email protected]

AQUASCAPE FISH IMPORTS

The simple solution for skin flukes, gill flukes & tapeworms Easy and effective Fish Treatment Ltd. www.fish-treatment.co.uk New 50g Sachet

Tropical & Coldwater Live Fish Wholesalers Unusuals inc Rays, Turtles, Crabs, Shrimps, Lobsters

DAILY NATIONWIDE DELIVERIES CALL NOW FOR FREE monthly TRADE lists 8QLTXH ¿VK ODEHOOLQJ V\VWHP Tel: 0121 331 1212 Fax: 0121 331 1414 ZZZDTXDVFDSHFRXN ZZZ¿VKODEHOVFRXN [email protected]

Car insurance as individual as you are

Say yes to... cheaper car insurance and yes to our Cheapest Price Guarantee* Compare car insurance quotes today and see if you can get covered for less

mustard.co

Ŗ$_bvo@;ubv|o0;-|ou1_;-r;v|omѴbm; 1-uķ -m ou lo|ou0bh; bmvu-m1; to|; $_; ]-u-m|;; omѴ -rrѴb;v |o -mm-Ѵ roѴb1b;v -m7 |o |_; 0-vb1 roѴb1rub1; omѴ $_bvo@;u; 1Ѵ7;v|;Ѵ;r_om;to|-ঞomv -m7 omѴ -rrѴb;v |o r;ul-m;m| u;vb7;m|v bm |_; &ķ ; 1Ѵ7bm] |_; _-mm;Ѵ vѴ-m7v ); u;v;u; |_; ub]_||o u;t;v|ruoo=o=ķ-m7-Ѵb7-|;ķ-Ѵ|;um-|;to|;v -v ;ѴѴ -v ruoo= o= |_; bm=oul-ঞom o ruob7;7 |o o0|-bm |_; to|;v Ő; ] 1or o= 7ubbm] Ѵb1;m1; ou ঞѴb|0bѴѴő 0;=ou;ou]-u-m|;;bv_omou;7 lv|-u7 1o hbv-|u-7bm]m-l;o=-;uomvl;u;7b-blb|;7_o-u;-m-rrobm|;7u;ru;v;m|-ঞ;o=(-v|(bvb0bѴb| blb|;7_o-u;-|_oubv;7-m7u;]Ѵ-|;70|_; bm-m1b-Ѵom71||_oub|m7;uCulu;=;u;m1;ml0;uƔѵѵƖƕƒ

113

To advertise here please call the sales team on 01733 366410

P L A N T E D AQ UA R I U M S P E C I A L I S TS

MISCELLANOUS

NAOMI BRAISBY

Tailpiece with Nathan Hill

“

The poor fish house manager might be there until the small hours, working in almost no light, trying to identify pale fish in bags with no markings, and that’s assuming the fish sent were even the ones ordered.

R

emember that old TV programme where the main prize was a trolley dash in a huge supermarket, and frenzied consumers would ransack the aisles for all they could get their grubby mitts on? Well, that’s me every time I go to the fish wholesaler Neil Hardy Aquatica with a camera. Things get pretty wild in there. I’m blatantly boasting here, as Neil Hardy’s doors are not open to the general public. It’s the place where your local retailers get a lot of their oddballs, so it’s always a safe bet I’ll get to shoot a lot of stuff I’ve not seen in a while. I’m fortunate enough to have a long friendship with Jason, one of the chaps working there, so I can go pretty much whenever.

The thing with livestock wholesalers is that every time I visit I’m reminded of the arduous working conditions behind the scenes. Right now, it’s likely you’re comfily sat at home. Your tank might be sat to one side, whirring away with your gorgeous selection of tropical fish (and I bet it all looks lovely, too). Your fish suppliers are probably not sitting quite so comfily. Weeks before you bought them, the fish in your tank might have rocked up to a store sometime around 11pm, after delays at airports and traffic jams on the road. The poor fish house manager might be there until the small hours, working in almost no light, trying to identify pale fish in bags with no markings whatsoever — and that’s assuming the fish sent were even the ones ordered (things are frequently substituted). Then that same manager enjoyed the delights of trudging home afterwards, exhausted, for a late supper and a little sleep before turning up at 8.30am for another full day (some aquatic staff are known to ‘overlook’ the 11–hour gap required between working full-time shifts, which is why some look so tired and haggard midweek).

Indoor downpour Your fish might have come from a wholesaler, with densely-packed fish houses where the air temperature hangs around the high-twenties or low-thirties, and the humidity is so high that as

114

Climbing a stepladder to photograph these mudskippers almost resulted in heat exhaustion.

NATHAN HILL

Arduous working conditions

”

condensation hits the ceiling it falls back in a constant indoor downpour. At Neil Hardy’s, as I collect fish for photographs (see Fish in the Shops on page 18 for a little of what I found) I experience the heat and humidity first-hand. Climbing up a stepladder to get hands-on with some mudskippers, the temperature is like a fist. I cling to the ladder and panic as I think I’m about to flake out. “Jesus Christ,” I wail to nobody and everybody. “I’m DYING here. I’ve just been sick in my mouth.” To make matters worse, as I work I get a huge splash of water right in the face, from a tank of fish fresh out of Africa — one thing I had hoped to avoid. Thanks, Congochromis. Really helpful. Several hours later when I get home I throw up. After a night of stomach cramps, I wake up and wonder if it’s just a stomach bug or whether I should Google ‘amoebic dysentery.’ I was only there for one day. For the staff who work at fish wholesalers, those are often normal conditions. But what about a step further back, pre-wholesaler, when the fish are still at the collection stage? Surely it can’t get any worse?

Too dangerous… Well, yeah, it really can. When you have fish coming from places like the Democratic

Republic of Congo, where life is cheap and child soldiers roam the jungles, happy to shoot first and ask questions later, it can get a lot worse. Whenever I ask about the lives of collectors over there, the response is frequently ‘Yeah, they packed it in because it got too dangerous.’ I’d pack it in too, if I’d been shot at. In fact, with all of that in mind, paying out £5 or so for an unusual Congolese tetra comes across as a bit of a steal. A small price for the amount of late nights, sweating (and possibly vomiting) involved. And frankly, if I was heading out into a jungle where there was a high chance a teenager was going to shoot me with an AK47, or at best rob me of my mobile phone, I’d say £5 to the fishkeeper was an absolute bargain. The supply chain for fish is a lot more complex than it first appears, something I think we should all be thankful for. One day, it might make a fascinating feature for me to track a fish all the way back to source, recording each stage as a journalist. The catch is, I only get as far as the wholesaler before I complain like a stubborn toddler and throw up. Maybe not, then. Nathan Hill is Practical Fishkeeping’s features editor, biotope addict and amateur photographer, and has a weak constitution and poor resistance to tropical temperatures.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Go small in a

BIG WAY

52L AQUARIUM SIZE 56 cm L x 38 cm H x 29 cm D

ALSO AVA LABLE

MINI PROTEIN SKIMMER Compatible with Fluval EVO aquarium kits (Sold separately).

FL TI

MULTI-STA FILTRATIO

Y TO SETUP MAINTAIN

Beginning your journey into the wonderful world of marine aquatics has just got easier, with the small but perfectly formed EVO saltwater set from Fluval. Its reef capable LED ensures healthy coral growth and a stunning view of your underwater paradise and the KLGGHQVWDJHƪOWUDWLRQV\VWHPHQVXUHVFU\VWDOFOHDUKHDOWK\ZDWHU Create your own, personal coral reef with the Fluval EVO saltwater kit, available from all good aquatic retailers.

EVO S A L T W A T E R

K I T S

MERRY CHRISTMAS Thank you for all your support and custom this year!

Huge savings in store

AVAILABLE WHILE

...Enjoy loads of exclusive offers throughout December & January Premium Oak Aquariums are unique in their quality and built to last a lifetime. These aquariums compliment the existing furnishings of your home

STOCKS LAST With any Biorb Aquarium 30 Litres & Above

E E FR Orbervice Bi rly S th r te Wor t Ki

9 9 . 9

a Qu

SAV

£1

UP E TO

£20

SAVE30

0

£ UPnTseO c le ted O nge AquaRa s m Aquariu

;I LEZI SZIVWXSVIWXLVSYKLSYXXLI9/WXEδIHF] LYRHVIHWSJTEWWMSREXIERHORS[PIHKIEFPIεWLOIITIVW Find a store near you today or visit εWLOIITIVGSYO 1EMHIRLIEH%UYEXMGW

$XLICεWLOIITIV

XLIεWLOIITIV

• Aqua Expert 70 • Aqua Range Home 25, 60, 80 Black & White colour options