Practical Fishkeeping - Spring 2019.pdf

Welcome THE EXPERTS

STEVE BAKER

SUBSCRIBE TO

AND GET 13 ISSUES FOR JUST £43.96* See page 40 *Price is based on a one-year print subscription and Direct Debit payment

PFK’s new home: Warners Group Publications.

Steve’s had a busy month, visiting a reader with an amazing loach-based set-up, visiting a new store in Norwich, and writing all about Neolamprologus.

INGRID ALLAN Ingrid has been tackling the tricky situation of moving home with a tank, as well as exploring livestock options for the unheated aquarium.

RICHARD ASPINALL Marine expert and former aquarium magazine editor Richard writes on setting up a Red Sea marine biotope, based on his travels there.

OLEG LABUTOV Oleg co-founded the Biotope Aquarium Design Contest and is a high flyer in the biotope world. He shares with us the best 10 habitat tanks of 2018.

ABHISEK MALLICK Shrimp breeder and Indian fish enthusiast Abhisek shares the details of his recent exploration of the fishes and habitats of West Bengal.

BOB MEHEN Bob has been keeping his finger on the pulse with the latest aquarium news and gossip, as well as giving us his time to answer all your fishkeeping enquiries.

TIMES ARE changing, dear reader! As you read this, the PFK team is in the middle of a seismic shift. After this issue, we will no longer be a part of Bauer Media, but instead we’ll be the freshest acquisition of Warners Group Publications. What does that mean for you? In the immediate short term, very little. Our operations remain the same, and the PFK format will stay unaltered. In the longer term, it spells exciting times, and I hope you’ll be as thrilled about developments as I am. Warners is keen to explore fresh ideas, and I assure you I’ll be pitching hard for a National Aquatics Expo in years to come. For now, send any enquiries/letters and so on to the usual email addresses. They’ll be changing over the next couple of months, but we’ll keep you informed. Oh, and we are REALLY excited about this!

Stay in touch Watch us on youtube.com/ user/practicalfishkeeping

Dwarf gourami, Trichogaster lalius. Photograph by Neil Hepworth.

Ever heard about the creature you can cut in half and it forms two new whole animals? Find out on page 68

Nathan Hill, Associate Editor

Email us at editorial@ practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

ON THE COVER

Follow us at facebook.com/ PFKmag

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK

5

Contents

SPRING

12

43 INSPIRATION

8 12

MINI MARVEL A chance buy from the aquatics store, one strange little Hasselt’s leaf catfish turned out to be full of surprises.

NOWHERE ELSE ON EARTH With their habitat specialisations and highly developed social structures, the Neolamprologus of Lake Tanganyika are unique.

22

30

32

43

READER VISIT Meet PFK reader Sophie Washer and her dramatic, centrepiece tank of a tank, filled with Clown loach, barbs, plecs and a single agnificent Fire eel

YOUNG FISHKEEPERS

82

Part three of our series for junior fishkeepers looks at water changes, gravel cleaning, and introducing some more easy care species to your tank.

BENGAL ADVENTURE Two explorers journey to Bengal in the north-ea India to observe speci in their natural habit

Editor’s Pick

THE BEST BIO IN THE WOR

90

TREASURES OF THE RED SEA

WS & VIEWS HKEEPING NEWS charity to conduct diversity survey in Borneo, ngelsharks in Welsh waters, and how to age a Lungfish.

WARM FRONT Why a temperate community tank can be just as varied, colourful and full of personality as any tropical aquarium.

Dwarf by name, giant by nature, Trichogaster lalius is a stunning little gem. Take care to source healthy, virus-free specimens and it will brighten any tank.

Take inspiration from the wild world of ‘nems and Nemos, and create your own ravishing Red Sea biotope.

Feast your eye top 10 winnin annual Bioto Design Cont

74

THE LITTLE BIG GOURAMI

R PAGE 22

LETTERS Aquarium microscopy, plea for

5

THINGS YOU WILL LEARN IN THIS ISSUE

1

How to move house with fish.

When you should take your fish to the vet – and how you can stop it from swallowing foreign bodies in the first place...

2

Discover four plants that will thrive in a coldwater aquarium

4 What to do with your marine co l when they start to lose their colour.

3

T dwarf gour spit for food e an archerfish!

5

98

82 more plant features, and a genius use for tumble dryer waste water.

tanks – the Superfish Qubiq 30, Fluval Flex 123 and Tetra Starterline 105.

GEAR & REVIEWS

42 98 108

REGULARS

WIN A FILTER! Three fantastic Ocean Free Hydra Filtron filters are up for grabs in our fab competition!

40

ROADTRIP From established fish shops to aquascaping specialists, PFK visits three very different aquatics stores in Norfolk.

55

MANUFACTURERS POLL: THE WINNERS The results are in. Which aquarium, food, lighting, heater, filter and more did you vote the best of the best?

GEAR GUIDE

110 A first look at three smart new

90

64

to ease the stresses of moving day for you and your fish.

68

KNOW-HOW: PLANARIA

72

KNOW-HOW: FOREIGN BODIES

SUBSCRIBE TO PFK Save when you take out a print subscription to Practical Fishkeeping – and never miss an issue.

FISHKEEPING ANSWERS PFK’s crack team of aquatics experts are on hand to answer your questions. This month: how much food to feed, killifish aggression, the likelihood of hybridisation, and whether tank temperature determines the sex of shrimp.

KNOW-HOW: MOVING HOUSE WITH FISH Practical advice and handy hints

All you need to know about these strange, regenerating, hermaphrodite flatworms – and what they mean for your tank.

The goldfish who swallowed a pebble – a fishy tale (and happy ending) from the vet’s casebook.

MONTH 107 NEXT Glorious guppies, marines of the Mediterranean, and our biggestever LED comparison test!

114 TAILPIECE Guest contributor Max Pedley on why he left his job in aquatics retail – and what might have persuaded him to stay.

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK

7

FASCINATING FISH Leaf catfish

Mini marve

The Hasselt’s leaf cat, Silurichthys hasseltii, strikes me as a ‘Honey, I shrunk the Wels catfish’ kind of affair. WORDS: STEVE BAKER

8

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

I was fully expecting to have to wait a fortnight or more to catch a glimpse of my Leaf cat patrolling the surface after lights out, but on day two, moments after feeding, it was there! In full sight with the lights on, scouring the substrate for tasty morsels! You see, in nature these are said to be highly cryptic, nocturnal fish. They hide under submerged branches, leaf litter and dense aquatic plants by day, and roam the water’s surface by night to hunt down fallen insects and larvae. But in my tank I’ve seen my Leaf cat every evening under strong lighting, feeding off the substrate. It’s not as if they’re bred on a commercial level, so I can’t put it down to generations of conditioning to life in aquaria. In fact, I’ve found no accounts of breeding so far, so this is most likely a wild fish. Also, I was all prepared to supply frozen glassworm and floating, insect-based dried foods once the lights were out, but I didn’t get a chance. Has its behaviour changed this dramatically during the time it’s been captive? Since it left the collectors in Indonesia to the day I bought it in Nottingham? Who knows, but it’s a joy to see it each day, and this way I can be completely confident of its health.

My Leaf catfish feeds alongside an eel and loach.

NEIL HEPWORTH

I

HAVE A natural magnetism towards predatory fish. I’m also very concerned about being fair to the fish (or other animals) I keep, imagining what it would be like to be in their situation and wanting to give them sufficient space for interest and exercise, but I’m restricted on tank size in my two-bedroom flat. However, with patience and trips out to specialist shops, I do manage to find some cracking mini monsters to keep in my more modestly sized tanks. On one such trip I called in to Wharf Aquatics, and stumbled across some ideal fish for my 120cm oddball community tank. One of them I’d never seen or even heard of before, which adds hugely to the attraction for me. The label read ‘Leaf catfish, max size 5 inches’ with a price of around £18. A bit of research to make sure it would be happy in my water conditions and tank set-up and into the bag it went. With many similar features to the giant Wels catfish, this Leaf cat seems like a 13cm version of a 5m beast, and although not even I can say the Wels cat is pretty, it’s an impressive fish. It moves with grace and is perfectly suited to its surroundings and lifestyle.

Above: caption, caption, caption WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK

9

NEWS

Aquatic News Bob Mehen gathers the latest news and events from the world of aquatics. EXPEDITION

UK charity to conduct biodiversity survey Team plans to investigate previously unresearched river system on the island of Borneo.

A

RESEARCH TEAM from the Freshwater Life Project, a registered UK charity, is gearing up to head deep into the rainforest in Brunei, on the island of Borneo, to conduct a biodiversity survey of a previously unresearched river system. The team, headed by the charity’s founder Jinesh Shah, aims to identify critically endangered wildlife dependent on the river, as well as develop a solid case for indefinite protection of the habitat, and establish a research centre. While Borneo is known to suffer from extreme instances of habitat loss due to deforestation for unsustainable palm oil plantations, Brunei, which occupies just 1% of the island, remains largely unexplored. It’s thought that Brunei’s rainforests may be some of the last safe havens for the endangered wildlife of Borneo, some species of which live nowhere else on earth. The survey will try to observe mammals, reptiles, amphibians, birds, bats, plants and fish, and will even use day and night vision camera-trapping and bio-acoustic monitoring to unearth new occurrences of endemic species like the Bornean rhinoceros, Sunda pangolin, Bornean elephants, orang-utans, Bornean freshwater crocodile, and the Brunei beauty, Betta macrostoma, among others.

10

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Joining the team is biotope expert ABOVE: Borneo needs Chris Englezou, who remarks that: protection. “It is highly likely the research, which will be published in respected LEFT: Many scientific journals, will uncover both habitats will be plants and animals new to science researched. while helping to identify the presence of existing threatened species, providing they can meet MORE INFO the target of £10,000 to fund the first stage.” To help with a donation Find out more to the project, visit about the charity and gofundme.com/ its Brunei project at freshwaterlifeproject freshwaterlifeproject.org

AQUATIC DRUGS STASH FILTER THIEF SPARED JAIL A man who tried to steal an external filter worth £292 from a shop has been spared jail. Dean Hodson, from Bury, Lancashire, took the pricey filter from Dave’s Aquarium in Bolton in November. He was given a 20-week suspended sentence, ordered to receive treatment for drug addiction and pay £400 in compensation and costs.

Police officers searching a property in Orford, Cheshire, for possible drug dealing soon found the culprits’ watery hiding place – their fish tank. Three men were arrested and a large quantity of class A drugs retrieved from the tank after officers spotted one of the residents trying to hide them among the fishy inhabitants.

CALL FOR ZEBRA PLEC OWNERS! A team of scientists from Canada and Brazil is working on a paper to explore the opinions and population of Zebra plec breeders worldwide. If you keep Hypancistrus zebra, and are interested in taking part in the research by answering a short, anonymous survey, please visit https://sciencelive.geog.mcgill.ca/zebrasurvey

Australian lungfish

PROJECT

LONGEVITY

How to age a Lungfish The endangered Australian lungfish, Neoceratodus forsteri, is generally believed to be one of the longest-lived freshwater fish, with ages in excess of 100 years often cited. Well-documented captive specimens aside, however, it has been impossible to back up this assertation with facts. Typically the age of a fish is read by looking at the otolith, a small bone in the fish’s ear that carries growth rings similar to those on trees. To examine this, though, you generally need to kill the fish (not a great idea with endangered species…). Plus, in the case of this particular fish, a Lungfish’s otolith is not like that of other species. A team from the Australian National University in Canberra has now managed to crack the problem by reading carbon 14 levels in the fish’s scales. An unexpected side effect of nuclear weapons testing is a

‘bomb curve’, which shows that the quantity of carbon 14 in the atmosphere started to rise in the 1950s and peaked in 1963 when a treaty to ban nuclear testing came into force. This distinct carbon 14 profile makes it easier to determine when Lungfish were born. Scales were removed from 500 Lungfish taken from the Brisbane, Burnett and Mary Rivers, and a sub-sample of these scales were then aged using bomb radiocarbon dating techniques. The results showed fish ranging from three to 78 years old. They also showed how reproduction had occasionally stopped completely in some areas for decades. Previously researchers had had major difficulty in identifying juvenile fish. This led some scientists to believe that there was only an ageing population of mature fish left, and the species was dying out as a result.

Communities in Wales are being asked to share their encounters, past and present, with rare Angel sharks around the Welsh coast. The Angel Shark History Roadshow is an initiative organised by Natural Resources Wales and the Zoological Society of London to gain more information on the species. The Angel shark, Squatina squatina, was once widespread in the coastal waters of the north-eastern Atlantic, but is now considered critically endangered. Its last known stronghold was around the Canary Islands, but reports from fishermen suggest that a population of these unusual, dorsally flattened sharks, which can reach 2.4m, is alive and well off the Welsh coast. Angel shark

SHUTTERSTOCK

ALAMY

ANGEL SHARKS’ STUDY UNDERWAY IN WALES

JAPAN

Are Oarfish really prophets of doom? The appearance of three dead Slender oarfish, Regalecus russelii, off the coast of Japan in January caused frenzied social media speculation that they were harbingers of an impending tsunami. The dead fish were discovered over a nine-day period in Tomaya Bay in the Sea of Japan. Traditionally, these magnificent, silver, serpent-like deep sea fish, which can reach up to 8m in length, have been seen as a sign of an approaching tidal wave – their Japanese name translates as ‘messenger from the palace of the dragon king’. Similar sudden appearances were reported before the deadly tsunami of 2011. However, Japanese scientists suspect the appearance of the fish is simply coincidental. They are seldom seen, and usually appear at the surface only when dead or dying.

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 11

SPECIES SHOWCASE Neolamprologus

Nowhere else ON EARTH With complex life strategies and highly developed social structures, the Lamprologines of Lake Tanganyika are truly unique. WORDS: STEVE BAKER

12

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Lamprologines that have diversified and thrived – 95% of Lake Tanganyikan cichlids are found nowhere else on earth. With a shoreline of 1,136 miles and an estimated volume of 4,500 cubic miles of water, this historic lake has an abundance of different habitats and feeding niches for fish to take advantage of.

Genera jumble

In 1997, a comprehensive morphological study of nearly all Lamprologines by Melanie Stiassny concluded that Lamprologus is restricted to river-dwelling species (from the Congo and Malagarasi rivers) that share a common ancestor (monophyletic). The genus name Neolamprologus literally means a new or revised form of Lamprologus, pointing to the fact that the fish of this genus we find in Lake

Lemon cichlids offer both colour and character.

The Lamprologini family comprises eight genera. Neolamprologus has by far the most members, but there’s much confusion surrounding the Lamprologus and Neolamprologus genera. If you look through a number of books or websites about Tanganyikan cichlids, you’ll probably find some using the genus name Neolamprologus, others using Lamprologus, and even a mixture of the two.

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 13

ALAMY

E

COLOGICALLY, ALL the lakes of the African Rift Valley are highly significant, whether you’re considering one of the oldest and largest lakes on the planet with mind-blowing biodiversity, or the smaller, inhospitable water bodies such as the extreme alkaline soda lakes, inhabited by a few very specialised fish. The Rift Valley region is known for the evolution of more than 800 cichlid species, most of which are found in Lake Victoria, Lake Malawi or Lake Tanganyika, each a vast lake containing fish with intriguing gene pools and advanced social structures. Lake Victoria and Lake Malawi are both dominated by members of the Haplochromine lineage, but Lake Tanganyika – the oldest and largest tropical freshwater body in the world – is different. Here it’s the

SPECIES SHOWCASE Neolamprologus

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS

Neolamprologus cylindricus

Tanganyika today descend from those riverine Lamprologus. Not all have adopted this definition, and literature continues to be mixed, but for the remainder of this article I’ll adopt the structure set out by Stiassny. The type species for Lamprologus (that is, the particular species from which the genus is named) is Lamprologus congoensis, a fast-water lover found in the rapids of the River Congo. It’s thought to be the basis of the Lamprologini family and it’s easy to see the similarities with some lake fish like Neolamprologus tetracanthus.

Fairy tale FACTFILE STRIPED LAMPROLOGUS 6Scientific name: Neolamprologus buescheri 6 Pronunciation: Neo-lam-pro-low-guss boo-cherry 6Size: 7cm 6 Habitat: Cave dweller, mostly found at depths of 20m and more 6 Tank size: 90x30x37.5cm for a small group, 120x60x60cm for a mixed tank 6Temperament: Aggressive and territorial 6 Availability and cost: Not so common; from around £12

100 l+

In the hobby, the fish most associated with the Neolamprologus genus is N. brichardi, the Fairy cichlid or Princess of Burundi. This species is readily available, easy to keep, easy to breed, and often seen as the best introduction to keeping Tanganyikan cichlids, possibly even cichlids in general. I followed this route myself – the Fairy cichlid was the first fish to go in my very first Tanganyikan tank. N. brichardi has a strong, confident character – quite the opposite to the

species’ dainty look. They rarely shy away from the viewer; in fact, they’re more likely to confront you face on and display to you beautifully. The real interest with this and other closely related species is when it comes to rearing the young. Their social structure is wonderful to see. The parents’ defence of a first batch is admirable as they hover above their rocky safehold, but when you see the second and third batches of young being defended and corralled by their 3-4mm siblings from the first spawn, it’s pretty eye-opening. In larger groups, it’s been noted that both related and non-related fish sometimes form a creche service, looking after other couples’ young while they feed on drifting plankton away from their territory. Batches of young from different couples may even be protected at the same time. This behaviour has been compared to the social activities of chimpanzees, showing that in evolutionary terms this fish behaviour is ahead of most. They are also known to selfregulate their population in confined

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS

Neolamprologus buescheri

14

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS

Neolamprologus brichardi rarely shy away from the viewer; in fact, they’re more likely to confront you face on and display to you beautifully

N. brichardi can form large congregations in the wild WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 15

SPECIES SHOWCASE Neolamprologus

Feeding Neolamprologus Neolamprologus species are primarily insectivores. Though they specialise to fit different feeding niches – N. brichardi, for example, feeds on water-borne phytoplankton and N. leleupi finds crustaceans in rocky crevices – feeding different species in aquaria is pretty similar. Mostly they are happy to feed on dried diets, but vitality is improved when they’re fed on a diet of mainly frozen and live foods. Mysis shrimp and Krill offer excellent nutrition, while enriched brineshrimp, Daphnia, chopped mussel and Tanganyikan mixes offer good variety. A small amount of spirulina, blanched spinach or vegetable matter in dried foods is good, and mimics the vegetable proteins they’d accidentally eat when collecting insect larvae from biofilm and algae. Avoid feeding foods collected from acidic environments though, including bloodworm, black mosquito larvae and glassworm. These have been linked with bloat (also called Malawi bloat or cichlid bloat), where digestion problems can lead to health issues and possibly death.

Aggression is always heightened during breeding.

habitats, either by producing fewer eggs or eating some of their young when space or food is scarce.

Brichardi complex In the vastness of the lake, the rocky habitats may be as far apart as isolated reefs are in the oceans. Miles of sandflats or muddy habitats surrounding river mouths separate the rocky areas N. brichardi call home. In these situations, localised strains are frequent but after such isolation for years on end, these local strains differentiate enough to become valid species in their own right, giving rise to what’s known as the Brichardi complex. This is a group of closely related species that together inhabit every rocky habitat

around the lake. Differences between these species can be very subtle. Neolamprologus pulcher ‘Daffodil’ is one fish you may come across in shops that displays more yellow colouration in its finage than most of the Brichardi complex, while Neolamprologus falcicula has a darker body as an adult, but juveniles display vivid yellows and blues.

Shell story Another behavioural trait found only in Lake Tanganyikan cichlids has been adopted by a group of generally smaller Neolamprologus species, known as the shell-dwellers. A huge abundance of snails in the lake means that thousands upon thousands of empty snail shells litter

FACTFILE 6 Scientific name: Neolamprologus brichardi 6 Pronunciation: Neo-lam-pro-low-guss brick-are-dee 6Size: 9cm 6Habitat: Hovers above areas of rocky shoreline at depth of 4-20m 6 Tank size: 60x30x37.5cm for a pair, 120x30x37.5cm for a group or a mixed tank 6Temperament: Territorial and aggressive, especially when defending young. Mix with fish of different habits, such as shell dwellers and open water fish like Cyprichromis spp. 6Availability and cost: Very common; around £10

the lake bed – so many so, that there are accounts of ichthyologists burrowing through them for several feet and still not finding the lake floor. Small fish using empty shells for shelter seems like a no-brainer to me, but it’s only ever been observed in this one lake, even though other cichlid-containing lakes also have vast snail populations, and the means to develop the same behaviour. The shell-dwellers are the feisty terriers of the cichlid world. If any cichlid is going to draw blood while you’re carrying out tank maintenance in its territory, it’s Neolamprologus ocellatus, the Ocellated shell-dweller and the most pugnacious of them all. Both ‘gold’ and ‘orange’ strains are available, showing slightly different

65 l+

body colour and iridescent scale markings. Unlike most shelldwellers, this species is found where shells are sparsely distributed over sandflats – possibly the reason for it being so defensive of its territory.

Property empire Where most ‘shellies’ move closer to prized real estate the more they climb the hierarchical ladder, one species has a different tactic. The male Neolamprologus callipterus is far larger than most of the genus, reaching up to 15cm (females grow to 6cm), which puts him out of contention for hiding in snail shells. With a harem of diminutive females, the protection of a large male is a bonus, but the fact this

FACTFILE LEMON CICHLID

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS

FAIRY CICHLID

6Scientific name: Neolamprologus leleupi 6Pronunciation: Neo-lam-pro-low-guss le-loo-pie 6Size: 10cm 6Habitat: Rocky recesses of the shoreline at depths of 20m and more 6Tank size: 75x30x30cm for a pair, 120x30x37.5cm for a group or a mixed tank 6Temperament: Territorial and semi-aggressive 6Availability and cost: Common; from £7.50

65 l+

fellow is large enough and strong enough to pick up and carry a shell gives him a whole different edge. Not only does it mean he can position a cluster of shells in a defensive area, it also means males that compete with each other by sneakily stealing a neighbour’s shell, increasing their estate, and possibly also increasing their community of females if there’s one living inside the shell at the time. It’s not always the big male that gets the girl though. ‘Sneaker males’ can be seen in octopus, dung beetle, lizard and salamander species among others, and they play their part in N. callipterus communities too. Small males masquerading as females work their way in to the shell nests of larger males, secretly fertilising eggs when the time is right. Being physically smaller means most shell-dwellers are the least demanding in terms of tank size. Pairs can happily be kept in tanks of 45x30x30cm, while breeding colonies can be housed in a tank of 75x30x30cm. Keeping them in a mixed-species tank is perfectly feasible if they are given space, and WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 17

SPECIES SHOWCASE Neolamprologus

Set-ups for Neolamprologus To live contentedly in an aquarium, the shell-dwellers obviously require empty shells. Many aquarists use escargot shells as they are readily available and a suitable size for most species. Authentic Neothauma snail shells are hard to come by, but they may turn up occasionally at club auctions and the like. In mixed tanks, the cluster of shells should have a boundary of around 15cm of open substrate to avoid territorial clashes with rock-dwelling fish. Other Neolamprologus are rock lovers, whether that’s living in rocks (N. leleupi) or over rocks (N. brichardi), so rocky structures with lots of caves and crevices are ideal for creating territorial boundaries and breaking up sightlines. Good flow through and around these structures helps to avoid the build-up of waste in hard-to-reach areas. I found that a strong powerhead aimed into a rock structure and fired up for just one minute twice a day (using a plug timer) keeps settled waste on the move, allowing the filter to pick it up. Hard, alkaline water conditions are needed for Tanganyikan fish. For Neolamprologus spp. water should be 9-12°KH, 18-25°GH, 8.0-8.7 pH and 24-27°C. To achieve these conditions some aquarists use calcium-based substrates and rock, such as coral sand and ocean rock or limestone. Others – including me – use commercial buffers like Seachem’s Cichlid Lake Salt and Tanganyika Buffer.

18

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

a cluster of shells with a margin of 15cm or more of surrounding substrate is ample. There are several other shelldwellers commonly available in the shops too, including N. multifasciatus and N. brevis, but don’t be tempted to keep different shell-dwellers together. Direct competition will usually lead to physical damage and often the death of the weaker fish.

Not so mellow yellow When it comes to bold colour, the star of the genus is the Lemon cichlid, N. leleupi, with its bright yellow or orange body and striking blue eyes. There are communities of grey and black N. leleupi found in the lake too, but these are very rarely seen in the hobby. This slender, long-bodied fish is suited to a more reclusive life in the

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS

and at a maximum size of 7cm, cracks and crevices of rock piles you’d think it would be just as easy and underwater cliff faces where it to house, but that’s not the case. feeds mostly on crustaceans found This species is a gorgeous grump on the biofilm cover. The nature of – one of the most aggressive its habitat means the Lemon cichlid Tanganyikan fish in the hobby – so it lives a more solitary life in the lake, demands space and is best kept in a with males having little acceptance species-only set-up. Some people for conspecifics in their lair unless do have success keeping them it’s a ripe female. in a mixed tank, but it needs This pugnacious to be large – something behaviour seems to be in the region of 400 l somewhat muted in or more, with aquaria though. When mixing species in plenty of rocks I’ve kept and aquaria, make sure they look and hiding bred F1 N. and act differently to places. Keeping leleupi (fish bred avoid direct conflict them with from wild stock) in larger-bodied species a mixed tank, and between is also advised. they’ve shown fish. For a single species set-up, acceptance of others that a volume of around 100 l with know their boundaries. They’re a footprint of 90x30cm will suffice far less tolerant when harbouring for a single male with two or three fry, however. females. Naturally the male’s It’s said though that mixing N. territory will encompass several leleupi with closely related species much smaller female territories, and will lead to trouble, so avoid mixing he may breed with multiple mates. them with N. cylindricus and N. Once settled they breed frequently, mustax, two quite similar fish in habit but batches are small with younger and attitude, if not in appearance. fish producing as few as five or six Gorgeous grump eggs every two to three weeks. One small but demanding species Mature fish are more likely to have that catches my eye whenever I see 30 to 40 eggs in a batch, though this it is Neolamprologus buescheri, the is still small considering most Striped lamprologus. This stunning Neolamprologus produce 100-200 fish has markings and colours to eggs per brood. It’s a project that’s rival any softwater dwarf cichlid, high up on my to-do list for sure.

LEFT: Rocky structures and caves are loved by most Neolamprologus species. BELOW: Neolamprologus ocellatus.

FACTFILE OCELLATED SHELL-DWELLER

40 l+

MP&C PIEDNOIR AQUAPRESS

6 Scientific name: Neolamprologus ocellatus 6 Pronunciation: Neo-lam-pro-low-guss os-ell-art-us 6Size: Males to 6cm, females to 3.5cm 6 Habitat: Open sandy areas of shoreline scattered with snail shells and rocks 6 Tank size: 45x30x30cm for a pair, 75x30x30 cm or more for a colony or mixed tanks 6 Temperament: Confident and territorial. Do not mix with other shell-dwellers 6 Availability and cost: Common; from £9

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 19

Letters

FISHSCIENCE AQUARIUM FOOD The writer of our Letter of the month will win a 250ml pot of their choice from this quality range of Fish Science food, which uses natural ingredients. Email: editorial@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

ANKE MORBITZER

Your letters, your thoughts and your experiences shared.

WHEN ‘SCOPING GOES WRONG! As I’m into fishkeeping and microscopy, I stumbled across the microscope image on page 61 (April 2019 issue), which is said to show a fungus. I am fairly sure that this is not correct and the photo shows an algae (or what is left of it) of the genus Micrasterias. In the last few years I have been active at promoting microscopy for pondkeeping and fishkeeping in cooperation with JBL. So fishkeeping is now also a part of my job in some way, and I’ve read PFK ever since. With JBL, we have been attending several shows, including Interzoo, to promote the use of microscopes. Hopefully more people will get into microscopy to learn more about the biology involved in the hobby. A microscope is an important tool to improve fishkeeping in general and the health of the livestock and, of course, pond life may be a nice hobby all in itself. It’s not a coincidence that our microscopy showroom looks the way it does with a 900 l Tanganyika tank inside – see photo above! Anke Morbitzer, email NATHAN REPLIES: Good spot, Anke. That was a stock image from a photo library, and in a rush I picked the first image that had the right name tagged to it. I’m sure readers would love to know more about aquarium microscopy, so if you ever fancy writing an article on it, let me know!

20

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

MORE PLANTS PLEASE I have just read the latest edition of the magazine and am again disappointed that there are no articles on plants and planted tanks. I have been a subscriber to the magazine for over 30 years and indeed have copies in my loft from many years ago. Sadly I have noticed that over the last months the magazine has no articles about plants or planted tanks, even though you mention aquascapes in your editorial. So please can we have some articles in the future editions as we used to have? Robert Pearce, email NATHAN SAYS: Happy to oblige, Robert, and I’m currently lining up some planted tank features as we speak. Without giving too much

away, I’ve got one amazing set-up in the pipeline that even has Venus fly traps growing out of the top of it!

PUTTING A SPIN ON FISHKEEPING I would like to share my little home appliance trick with other readers. I currently have three tanks: two South American biotopes, and one biotope inspired by a forest stream in Thailand. I’m lucky to live where my tapwater has favourable parameters for me: GH = 5, KH = 3 and pH around 7.0. RO water is also useful for me, to top up after evaporation or prepare breeding conditions. Buying my own RO installation was unlikely to make sense in my case, and the nearest store where I could buy RO water is rather a long

ABOVE: For health checks or just for interest, microscopes have a place in fishkeeping. BELOW: Clown plecs have spawned in Piotr’s laundry water.

Leer of the Month

JJPHOTO.DK

TANK COMMUNITY

Win

Write to us at Practical Fishkeeping, H Bauer Publishing, Media House, Lynchwood Business Park, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire PE2 6EA

weekly water change in one of my South American tanks. Results? A colony of wild-caught Clown plecs, Panaqolus maccus, started spawning immediately, as did a group of Corydoras sp. C049! Now I’ve been using distilled water from my dryer to top up evaporation in all my tanks for over a year. The procedure is always the same: constant active carbon filtration and aeration during collection, with a minimum 24-hour period between the last few litres being collected and becoming ready for use. Benefits are less water waste and happy fish! Being rather busy with my work, I currently have no time for more ambitious breeding projects, but I will try to change this soon with some more demanding tetras or corys as a ‘target’, and using my laundry water as a base for success. I hope this information may be useful for someone with a condenser dryer in their utility room and more demanding fish in their aquarium! Piotr Szczepania, Co. Cork

º ONE £1,000 FISH? º A THOUSAND £1 FISH? YOU SAID...

77%

23%

£1 FISH WINS! 77%

SHUTTERSTOCK

way from my home in rural Ireland. Some time ago, considering Irish weather and my family’s active lifestyle, we bought a laundry dryer – a condensing model with a heat pump. This awesome machine dries the laundry using heat, which is then recycled and used again. Waste products of this process include lower electricity bills and pure distilled water! When the dryer was set up first time, I collected the ‘waste’ water, and had around 20 litres after a week. Then I checked it with all my testing kits (and my nose), and it really seemed to be pure, without even a trace of fabric conditioner smell. To be sure, I installed a small power filter with active carbon inside the container to filter and aerate the water, and collected more after every drying cycle. Having around 60 litres, I mixed my cold, well-aerated distilled water with tapwater, added some conditioners and trace elements as I always do, and used the mixture for a bigger than usual

Follow us at facebook.com/PFKmag

NATHAN HILL

Email us at editorial@ practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

WE ASKED... If we suddenly gave you £1,000 to spend on fish, how would you rather spend it?

NATHAN REPLIES: Excellent stuff Piotr! I have no idea if there is any element of risk involved in this, but I’m sure that if there is, our readers will be writing to me to let me know exactly what that is. In the meantime, all the best of success with your breeding projects!

GOODBYE TEAM! to be had from my venture into aquascaping either – deciding on whether to use slate, wood, rock or a combination. I’m now loving it more and more, becoming confident and proud that I’ve learned the names of so many plants and how they need to

SHUTTERSTOCK

Regular weekly maintenance and water change of my aquarium got me thinking. Without you (PFK editorial team) guys, it wouldn’t have been the same or even close. I’d have been denied the great joy of keeping my Panda corys (thanks to Steve Baker who suggested they would be perfect for my tank – how right he was!) and immeasurable pride to watch them breed many times over the last few months, and see the young developing into fit, healthy specimens. Pandas, although commonplace in fishy circles, are still my absolute fave. Without reading all the great pieces in the mag and encouragement daily, (while also being paid to be there), I would never have known the pleasure

be cared for. I knew none of them a few months ago. Without PFK I would probably only have one aquarium too. But recently adding an Ember tetra species-only tank for me to love and create the perfect environment for them is equally fulfilling. So, to the team, I’ll miss working with you all. It’s been a total delight knowing you, and heartfelt thanks for everything from the tips on heaters, filters, plants and substrates, to how to glue plants to wood specimens. I’ve learned so much and I’m sure the magazine I know and love will go from strength to strength with your new publisher. I will always continue to be a loyal, happy reader. Nicki Manning, editorial assistant, PFK

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 21

READER TANK Interview / Sophie Washer

HIGH IMPACT Nothing beats a single, stonking tank of a tank that shows off reader Sophie Washer’s fish and their natural behaviours to perfection. WORDS: STEVE BAKER. PHOTOGRAPHY: NEIL HEPWORTH

22

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

This tank gives me a good f-eel-ing.

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 23

READER TANK Interview / Sophie Washer

T

HE WAY the human brain processes what the eye can see is more incredible to me the more I learn about it. If you look from side to side quickly, for example, your eyes don’t have time to process what’s in between, so your brain invents that to make sense of it. It also manages to merge the two slightly different pictures from each eye – without us seeing double. And I’m forever baffled by the fact that we view the world upside down, and the image in front of us is flipped by the retina

MEET THE AQUARIST Name: Sophie Washer Age: 27 Occupation: Aquatics store manager Time in hobby: 7 years Favourite fish: Clown loach Fish you’d most like to keep: Stingrays

24

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

so our brain can understand it. So, I often find myself questioning whether I can really trust what I see, or if my eyes (or brain) are lying to me. Something that became very apparent when I visited Sophie Washer’s incredible aquarium was just how different it is to look at images, as opposed to having the real thing there in front of you. You see, I’ve known about this tank for a little while. During the past year or so, I’ve seen it on social media several times – and I’ve loved it. This really is my kind of set-up – the wood, the fish choice and the lighting are ideal. I even knew the dimensions of it, but the visual realisation of scale is so different to what I imagined in my head, that I was impressed all over again when I peered around the doorway to see what looked like a huge block of water standing proud in the kitchen-dining room. Sophie and I have met before

around fishy events, but sitting around for a few hours talking about the tank, her work and experiences in the hobby, gives you and me a chance to get to know her better… So, Sophie, when and how did you get you into the hobby? My Mum kept fish when I was young, but that wasn’t the influence for my hobby. It came much later when I worked for Pets at Home. I was interested in working with dogs in the forces, but I started getting into the fish instead. A co-worker, Lorraine [now a good friend and there on our visit – Ed], maintained the fish tanks. She took me under her wing and I was bitten by the bug. That was about seven years ago. Do you remember your first set-up? It was a Juwel Vision 260 with angelfish, swordtails, Cherry barbs and some Rams at one point. A Green phantom, a mustard spot and

a common plec were in there too. It had pea gravel and JBL AquaBasis in the bottom, and JBL’s pH control CO2 system with Vallis covering the background. Then you signed up to go to Sparsholt College to study fish – why was that? I wanted proof that I knew what I was doing. I studied a lot for myself anyway and when I was interviewed they thought it might not be worth me joining. I wanted a qualification so customers had more confidence, but I tend to do this anyway – throw myself fully into a subject. I now have level 3 Fish Management [passed with a distinction star! – Ed], as well as qualifications in art and design, and car mechanics. Learning feels good. So you’ve been working in the industry throughout your college time and ever since. Does that have an effect on

I knew I wanted a Fire eel in there from the start, so I ordered the tank to be very secure. She’s a real crowd-puller – everyone who sees her is amazed by her size, shape and character your personal hobby? At times it definitely takes some of the enjoyment out of it – sometimes I’ve just had enough of fish by the end of the day. But also, it’s the viewpoints of some customers that are hard to put up with – the “it’s just a fish” type of comments. Do you get involved in any aquatics clubs or fishy events? I’m a paid-up member of the Catfish Study Group, I’ve been to their annual convention for five years and the money goes to a good cause. I’ve been to the odd other event too, such as L-days. How would you describe your

tank? Were you aiming for this feel, or did it just happen as it came together? The idea was to have a tank big enough to see some natural behaviour, and I wanted to show how Clown loach should be kept in a big tank with lots of flow, so they get some good exercise. I know the tank’s not big enough to keep all of these fish to adult size – that will be addressed in the future – but I see behaviour in here that most people won’t see with small numbers of Clowns in smaller tanks. I’ve seen two of the younger ones fighting, followed by the matriarch interfering to split them up, and I can tell them apart to keep

ABOVE: A tank with great presence and some prominent fish!

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 25

READER TANK Interview / Sophie Washer

tabs on their individual personalities by looking at their markings, colour or size – unique differences really interest me. I also see a variety of behaviours in each genus of plecs I keep, such as where they prefer to hang out and territorial tendencies.

BELOW: A small Green phantom plec rests on wood.

Why so many Clown loach then, what’s the appeal? I was originally sold some to help out with my snail issue. I don’t condone that now – far from it – but in the early days of my hobby, I didn’t know it was wrong. My mantra now is ‘Clown loach are for

life, not just for snails!’ Anyway, I fell in love with them, and had them in several tanks around the house when I was living with my parents. As soon as I had my own place, I knew a good-sized tank for them was very important. Most of my larger ones have been rehomed from unsuitable tanks and I’ve bought quite a few with individual markings. And the other fish? I knew I wanted a Fire eel in there from the start, so I ordered the tank to be very secure. She’s a real crowd-puller – everyone who sees her is amazed by her size, shape

and character. I see rare, natural behaviours in her too. I’ve watched her blowing and nuzzling into the sand, which is very rare in tanks. The barbs have really grown on me. I was never fond of barbs before – I was just after a suitable mid-level swimmer – but now I have a real appreciation of the whole group. I get young from them in the sump now and then, which is why the K1 bed doesn’t move as much as most people’s. I removed the air pump to allow me to collect the young barbs – the adults display breeding nodules permanently. As for the plecs, I’ve had a thing

The Filament barbs are showing beautiful adult markings.

for them since my first set-up. The individual behaviour in them is interesting too, as well as the fact they look great. Do they cohabit well, or do you get any issues? No problems really. I see some of the plecs scrapping occasionally, particularly the Pseudacanthicus after feeding. I do worry slightly about the eel getting narked off with the smaller Clown loach, so I keep her well fed. She doesn’t like the Clowns in her cave and goes a bit mental to get them out, but she’s happy to have a plec or two in there. How long has it taken to get this tank going? It took some time to organise, and it has been an upheaval. I was on it as soon as I moved in, and two years later it was up and running. An affordable one-off stand was hard to come by. The original version had four legs, and I had it modified to add four more because I wasn’t confident about it. Then we cut into the flooring and insulation to get the feet onto concrete. Even

organising eight people at once to move the tank in took some time, with everyone’s work hours and so on. The window had to come out twice and it was boarded up for four months (which was cold!). The tank’s now been running for about two years. Are there any details you would change if you were starting the process again now? Nothing much; I’m happy with the tank overall. I would go for a longer sump with more mechanical filtration though. I had a 90 l tank sitting under there to start with, restricting the space. I would also tie the cork bark down to the egg crate that’s under the rocks for added security, I had one piece come loose and float, which upset the whole display and placing rocks back in is a big effort. It’s a big, tall tank – how did you get the hardscape in in the first place? That was team work – me on a step ladder and Lorraine inside the tank. Even then, with the weight of

SOPHIE’S TANK SPEC 6Tank: 213.3x91.4x76.2 cm (7x3x2.5ft) 6Sump: 147.3x45.7x45.7cm (58x18x18in) with filter brushes, sponges and K1 micro biomedia 6Return pump: Unknown pond pump (supplied by tank builder) 6Heaters: 3 x 300w 6Lighting: Kessil A80 6Flow pumps: TMC reef-tide 20000 compact

What’s in the tank ?

FISH

6Clown loach, Chromobtia macracanthus 6Fire eel, Mastacembelus erythrotaenia 6Filament barbs, Dawkinsia filamentosa 6Plecs – Ancistrus sp. 6Baryancistrus beggini 6Hypancistrus zebra 6Hemiancistrus subviridis 6Hypostomus faveolus, H. plecostomus 6 Leporacanthicus cf. galaxias, L. joselimai,

L. triactis 6 Panaqolus sp L397, P. albomaculatus, P. maccus, Panaque nigrolineatus 6Peckoltia sabaji 6 Pseudacathicus cf. leopardus, P. cf. leopardus ‘brown’

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 27

READER TANK Interview / Sophie Washer

some of these rocks, the thought of dropping them was a worry. What about maintenance: how often do you clean the filter? What about water changes? I clean the brushes and sponges from the sump roughly every three weeks. Up to two months is possible, but then it’s a big, messy job. I tried using filter socks briefly, but that led to a flood so I went back to sponges. I do a 60% water change weekly. Do you adjust your tapwater for the tank? No, not currently. It comes out at a pH of 7.6, which I’m quite happy with, but I do have high nitrates to deal with. That’s the main reason for having plants (cheese plant and peace lily) in the sump. I’m thinking about collecting rainwater, but I’m unsure. I bought a 1,000 l water container, but I worry about pollutants and I’m not even sure of the roofing material. I did make the effort to use RO water for a while, but bringing 100 l home from work every single day was killing me. How about the wood, what have you got in there? The main structure is sweet

Individual markings means Sophie can identify each Clown loach.

28

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

chestnut, which took 18 months to soak – that was a nice surprise to come home to, left on my driveway by Lorraine! It’s obviously thinner now under the light as it gets munched by plecs. I also have oak branches in there now with leaves on, but they get swapped out occasionally and sometimes I use beech. There are two big pieces of cork bark too – they take an age to soak. I did try leaf litter in the tank once, but it all got eaten very quickly. What’s your favourite aquarium product? Good quality foods are important to me mostly. My eel gets mussels, king prawns and bits out of seafood cocktail mix – strangely she won’t eat earthworms or cheaper prawns. As far as manufactured foods go, I use Vitalis catfish pellets, Evolution Aqua freeze-dried freshwater shrimp and JBL Gala mix regularly. They get Hikari Massivore as a treat now and again. What’s next? It’ll have to be in a larger house, but I want a bigger tank for the Clowns eventually and I’d really love to keep stingrays in the future.

I do worry slightly about the eel getting narked off with the smaller Clown loach, so I keep her well fed

A proud-looking Pseudacathicus. Textures of wood, river rocks, bark and sand work nicely together.

The Fire eel steals the show.

PART 3

FISHKEEPER

FRY

Fishkeeper Fry Project at fishkeeper.co.uk/ fishkeeperfry

Calling all budding young aquarists – these pages are just for you!

W

ITH THE early days of your aquarium behind you, water quality should be easier to control. Your fighting force of friendly bacteria are ready to leap into action to remove the harmful fish waste, but all of these chemicals have to go somewhere and they build up in the water. In the same way you might not want to sit in a room with someone who eats lots of sprouts without opening a window, your pets need their version of a breath of fresh air regularly!

boost oxygen levels during the day. At night, plants take in more oxygen than they produce, and this could be a problem if you didn’t have a filter to move the water’s surface and bring in oxygen from the air.

30

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

ABOVE: Danios are less messy than goldfish. INSET LEFT: Plants help with water quality. BELOW: Platies offer colour and variety.

solid waste in the filter means the bacteria have nowhere to form new colonies, so use the old water from your tank to rinse foams or other biological media. This will both keep the bacteria safe and get rid of the rubbish. This nutrient-rich water you remove from the tank is ideal for watering house and garden plants.

Stock up Now that you know how to keep your water fresh and clean, let’s look at some more of the fish species you can add to your aquarium. If you’ve been following our series, you’ll know that in the last issue we talked about

SHUTTERSTOCK

The main chemical in old water that you need to monitor is nitrate, though it’s not the only one. By measuring the nitrate content of your water, you can tell when it’s time to freshen things up, and this will depend on the number of fish you have and the amount of waste they produce. Messy fish like goldfish need more water changes than smaller fish like danios. And tanks with lots of healthy plant growth will have much lower nitrate levels than those without. Plants use waste products from the fish, such as ammonia and nitrate, but they also take the carbon dioxide that the fish produce in a process known as photosynthesis. Just like our lungs, fish use their gills to take in oxygen and expel carbon dioxide. But instead of a rib cage, fish have gill covers that work together with the mouth to create a flow of water through their gills. Whether above or below water, plants take carbon dioxide and sunlight and turn it into sugar and oxygen. For the fish, it means that bright aquarium lights and plants

SHUTTERSTOCK

Freshen up

For the waste that isn’t removed by plants, we need a solution in the form of dilution. By removing some of the old water and replacing it with fresh, harmfully high levels of nitrate are avoided. As well as the invisible pollution in the water, we also need to take out the solid waste – which means a spot of hoovering. A special gravel-cleaning syphon is a great piece of kit, and can help to keep gravel or sand free of grot. As filter bacteria are harmed by the chemicals in tapwater, this is a great time to use the waste water to rinse the filter sponges. Too much

SHUTTERSTOCK

Clean up

Zebra danios, Danio rerio, and now we can introduce some variety. Platies, Xiphoporus species, are hardy, colourful fish that originally come from Mexico, but they’ve been popular aquarium pets for years. Platies are easy to breed, which means they’ve been bred into lots of different colour and fin types – all are quite happy to mix and cross-breed. Platies like hardwater, so if your tapwater is lacking in minerals, you may need to buffer it with special chemicals to give them the conditions they need. As breeding is one of their favourite pastimes, you need to make sure the males don’t outnumber the females. Telling them apart is easy, as males have a specially adapted fin for mating, shaped like a little spike. Females have normal fan-shaped fins. Harlequin rasbora, Trigonostigma heteromorpha, are peaceful shoaling fish whose wild relatives are found in Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand, where they live in forest streams. They like the security of having plants to hide in and will swim in groups between these safe places. Honey gouramis, Trichogaster chuna, come from Indian swamps, and as these areas can get a bit stagnant,

SHUTTERSTOCK

In Association with

they’ve evolved to breath air as well as water. Watch them closely and you’ll see them come to the surface and take a breath as they spit out a bubble or two. Because swamps can be murky, they’ve also got specially adapted fins with taste buds on the end, and they use these feelers to check out objects at a safe distance.

Cool cats Peppered catfish, Corydoras paleatus, are fish that sink to the bottom, which is where they need and like to be. These busy little characters are built for life around the base of your tank and have whiskers called barbels that help them find food that’s sunk to

ABOVE: Peppered catfish swim around on the bottom.

the substrate. Like the gouramis, they can breathe air, and sometimes rush to the surface in a bit of a hurry. Peppered cats have been mooching about in aquaria in happy groups for decades, and can trace their roots back to South Brazil and Argentina. Bristlenose catfish, Ancistrus sp., are popular fish, thanks to their taste for algae. These hardworking catfish often spend much of the day asleep in their favourite hiding place before coming out to scrape the glass clean at night. All this hard work deserves a decent rate of pay, so tasty sinking pellets will be welcomed as a reward. Like the Peppered catfish, these bottom-dwelling Ancistrus sp. aren’t buoyant, and will often move about on hard surfaces using their sucker mouth – a handy way to cling on in a strong current. Male Bristlenoses give the species its name by growing a set of bushy antlers to show the females what good fathers they’d make. It’s the male’s job to guard the eggs and the young and it’s thought his bristles are meant to look like baby catfish. Wild Bristlenose cats are found over a wide area of South America, so whatever the males are doing, it clearly works.

A fishkeeper’s maze Which fish will make it to the aquarium today? Tick the winner:

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 31

Two sp

g s on how to care for them in aquaria.

Pseudolaguvia flavida

ABHISEK MALLICK Abhisek is a hobbyist of 18 years with an interest in dwarf and Indian fish species.

HE NORTHERN part of West Bengal, adjacent to neighbouring Bhutan and the Indian state of Sikkim, has a rich collection of flora and fauna. After a decent amount of planning, my friend Andrew Rao and I set off to explore the region in detail. We travelled long distances to reach our desired locations, covering a variety of sites from 53 to 2,138 metres above sea level (msl).

Mango catfish

Day 1 Jorai River, Site 1 We visited our first spot on the Jorai River, in the Barobisha district of West Bengal, in the late afternoon. There hasn’t been much human movement into this area, and we found the water pristine and the flow moderate. It was the start of winter, so the water temperature was already down, but it generally stays quite low due to the current. The river base here is made up of coarse sand and round, clean-edged rocks, and the vegetation was mainly Vallisneria, green Cabomba, Hygrophila and macro algae. At this location we found Caridina babaulti shrimp – both green and zebra varieties – along with the pipefish Microphis deocata, which preys on shrimp eggs so the species tend to stay close. Fish collected at the site included Dario dario, Psilorhynchus balitora, Psilorhynchus sucatio, Oreichthys crenuchoides, Amblyceps mangois, Hara jerdoni, Pseudolaguvia muricata, Pseudolaguvia ribeiroi and Badis badis, along with the shrimps Macrobrachium dayanum and Macrobrachium assamese, and crabs. Shrimp and shrimplets will form part of the diet of many of these fish. The two Psilorhynchus species are among the best algae eaters and would cherish algae if kept in aquaria. Dario dario and the two Pseudolaguvia species need live foods like tubifex worms, Artemia and mosquito larvae. Oreichthys crenuchoides, Hara jerdoni and Amblyceps mangois can be trained to accept flakes, pellets and freeze-dried worms. The catfish are of dwarf size, so can be kept in a tank of 68 l or more. Various individuals of these species can be kept together, but make sure you provide enough decent hiding spaces for them. They come from a moderate flowing region, so would prefer a modera water current. For Oreichthys crenuchoides I’d suggest an aquarium of at least 90 l.

Water parameters pH – 6.65 Tds – 59ppm GH – 2-3°H KH – 0-1°KH Temperature at 4pm – 18°C Nitrate – 0.50ppm Nitrite – 0.02ppm

Typically dense Jorai River foliage

Badis badis

Psilorhynchus sucatio WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 33

Day 2 Jorai River, Site 2 The second day started early for us and by 7.30am we were on the move. The outside temperature was low and we travelled 20km from our base camp towards a second location on the Jorai River. The water at this site was crystal clear, with slightly more flow than before. Elephants come to this spot to drink. The river base is made up of round gravel with coarse sand, and among the plants were Cryptocoryne spiralis, Vallisneria and

red Aponogeton. As with our first location, the current means the water temperature stays low. The fish we found in this location included Olyra longicaudata, Pillaia indica, Badis assamensis, Macrobrachium assamense, Channa quinquefasciata, Mastacembelus armatus, Oreichthys crenuchoides, Brotia costula snails and crabs. In an aquarium, the Badis would need live worms. It’s reported they can be moved onto dry feeds, but initially a healthy supply of live worms will be handy. Ideally they need a tank of 90 l or more. Pillaia indica eels also need live foods and would do well in a tank of

Heavily planted with crystal clear water!

Water parameters pH – 7.06 Tds – 109ppm GH – 4-5°H KH – 0-2°KH Temperature at 10.12am – 20.1°C Nitrate – 0.61ppm Nitrite – 0.04ppm

at least 68 l, with hiding spaces made up of rocks. Make sure there’s no other aggressive bottom dweller that could bully them. The Tyre track eel, M. armatus, needs a tank of at least 570 l capacity. In aquaria it rarely exceeds 50-60cm, but can grow to a formidable 90cm in the wild.

The river base is made up of round gravel with coarse sand, and among the plants were Cryptocoryne spiralis, Vallisneria and red Aponogeton

Scarlet gem

Our fish list Cryptocoryne spiralis

Tyre track l

Local Name

Scientific Name

Sparkling torrent fish Bantam torrent fish Scarlet gem Drape fin barb Mango or Crevice cat Blue chameleon fish Rusty catfish Harlequin catfish Zipper loach Five stripe snakehead Fighting catfish Tyre track eel Pea puffer Tank goby Black swamp eel Hi fin barb Honey gourami Golden dwarf barb Frogmouth catfish Garela

Psilorhynchus balitora Psilorhynchus sucatio Dario dario Oreichthys crenuchoides Amblyceps mangois Badis badis Pseudolaguvia muricata Pseudolaguvia ribeiroi Paracanthocobitis botia Channa quinquefasciata Olyra longicaudata Mastacembelus armatus Carinotetraodon travancoricus Glossogobius giuris Monopterus cuchia Oreichthys cosuatis Trichogaster chuna Pethia canius Chaca chaca Schistura inglisi

Zipper loach WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 35

Pillaia indica

Jorai River, Site 3 On the journey to our second location, we’d passed an undisturbed spot not much used by humans, and decided we would stop off and study it on our way back. We reached the site around 3.30pm and found the river base made up of rocks and finer sand. There was less oxygen here, which may be due to less flow. In some

Water parameters pH – 6.61 Tds – 72ppm Gh – 3-4°H kH – 0-1°KH Temperature at 3.42pm – 18°C Nitrate – 0.1ppm Nitrite – 0.02ppm

lower flow, but still undant life

Rich foliage was common at all sites

pots, Vallisneria roots had started to ome out of the water in a spiral orm, and the stagnant water esulted in algae at many spots. Here we found Caridina zebra and Caridina green shrimps, Microphis deocata and Ctenopis nobilis. A group of Ctenopis nobilis would o well in a tank of 136 l or more. You need to provide decent floating lants for them and a low-flow quarium as they come from a egion where the flow is minimal. rimarily, they need live food, but an be trained to accept flake foods, reeze-dried worms or small oating pellets.

Day 3

Leiodon cutcutia

Sankosh River, Site 4 Today we travelled 40-odd km from our base camp to study the Caridina white-backed shrimp. We reached our location around 11am and the sun was right on top of us. The water here isn’t clear, thanks to the presence of rotting weeds, Eichhornia and also the nearby farmland. Sadly, pesticides used in farming are leaching into the river and killing the fauna. We found Vallisneria, Cabomba and floating plants here, but the river base is very muddy. Again, the current means the water temperature here stays low. The Caridina white-backed shrimp comes primarily in a maroon/ orange colour. There is also a blue and black variation, but it’s not readily available. Maybe 20 of these

blue/black variants will appear for every 500 ‘normal’ shrimps found. We also found a variety of other species here, including Hara jeordani, Leiodon cutcutia, Chaca chaca, Oreichthys cosuatis, Badis badis, Trichogaster chuna and Pethia canius, plus Macrobrachium peguensis, and Brotia costula. Hara jerdoni is a dwarf variety of

catfish, so a tank of around 68 l would suit this species nicely. They can be fed pellets suitable for bottom feeders or freeze-dried worms. Leiodon cutcutia need something a little larger, perhaps 90 l, but they shouldn’t be kept with shrimps or snails as they predate on them. Chaca chaca is a predator, and should also be kept in a tank of

Water parameters pH – 7.05 Tds - 98ppm GH - 4-5°H KH - 1-2°KH Temperature at 11.43am - 23°C Nitrate – 0.14ppm Nitrite – 0.03ppm

Sankosh River, complete with clouding and pollution!

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 37

around 90 l. They will appreciate something dimly lit, with a soft substrate, and while juveniles can be trained to eat pellets, keep some live worms handy in case they won’t accept dry food. A small colony of Oreichthys cosuatis would need an aquarium above 90 l too, and should accept pellets and flake foods. They come from rivers with slow movement water, so keep the flow moderate. Trichogaster chuna would appreciate a dimly lit tank of at least 68 l, filled with floating plants. They can be trained to eat dry food. Pethia canius are beautiful fish who need a planted tank over 68 l. They come from river locations with sluggish water, so avoid high water flow in the aquarium.

The busine end of Chaca chaca Wild Badis

Chaca chaca s a predator nd should be ept in a tank of around 90 l. They will appreciate something dimly lit, with a soft substrate

Drapefin barb

Faster streams without plants

Schistura / Nemacheilus

In the mountains! Site 5 On our last day, we headed up the mountain to around 1,100ft above sea level. We stopped near a small stream and found a species of Macrobrachium shrimp, along with a crab that was pure black in colour. The only plants were terrestrial plants growing near water streams. The only fish we collected here was Schitsura inglisi (Ed’s note: this fish has a contentious name and may be either Nemacheilus inglisi or Schistura repecula, pending whether you prefer Fishbase or Catalog of fishes as your

reference). The region cold, with fast-moving plant-filled waters, so you’re recreating an aquarium for this spec provide lots of hiding places and plenty of flow. Schitsura inglisi aren’t very popular in the hobby, however, due to their lack of colour, and currently not enough is known about their food preferences. Water parameters pH – 7.31 Tds – 118 ppm GH – 5-6°H KH – 1-2°KH Temperature at 3.15am – 12°C

Hunting loach in the mountains

SUBSCRIBE

Subscribe to

SHUTTERSTOCK

and save!

Subscribe every month and discover how Practical Fishkeeping remains the definitive one-stop shop for inspiration, species information, problem solving and great-looking aquariums.

To take advantage of this fantastic subscription offer all you have to do is:

CALL 01778 392498 quote PRFK/SPRING19

ALL THIS FOR £43.96

Subscribe to PFK in print

£10.99 every quarter by direct debit OR 13 issues for £44.99 for a year by credit or debit card

SUBSCRIBE TODAY AND BENEFIT FROM: 6Never missing an issue 6Free UK delivery 6Save on shop prices Terms & Conditions: Subscriptions will start with the next available issue. The minimum term is 13 issues. Prices quoted apply when you pay by direct debit. Alternative payment methods available – see website for details. Direct Debit will continue to be taken unless you tell us otherwise and you will not receive a renewal reminder. This offer closes on 30 June 2019.

COMPETITION

Ocean Free Hydra Filtron Competition

T

HIS MONTH WE’VE teamed up with Maidenhead Aquatics to put together a fantastic Ocean Free Hydra Filtron competition package with a value of £719.97! We have THREE Ocean Free Hydra Filtron canister filters to be won – a Filtron 1800, Filtron 1500 and Filtron 1000 – meaning that three lucky winners could have a chance at winning one of these wonderful filters. Ocean Free’s Filtron series use Hydra-Pure Technology with a new four-stage water purification system. Hydra Filtron’s 4-Stage Water Purification goes beyond the conventional mechanical, biological and chemical, with the incorporation of the revolutionary Hydro-Pure Technology that uses hydroxyl radicals (OH) to accelerate filter start-up time from four or five weeks to within just one week, as well as reduce water odour and retain a crystal clear tank. The Filtron is the first canister filter in the world to incorporate Hydro-Pure Technology into its design. Hydro-Pure Technology is a patented water detoxifying technology for marine and freshwater aquariums. It consists of two electro-plates that energise a cartridge box containing special Cata-Pure Catalyst Media to generate strong, reactive hydroxyl radicals, which is the key to the detoxifying process.

Product features

6One-pull priming – A quick pull of the primer draws water into

the canister making it ready to use. 6Valve for easy maintenance – Valve controls at the inlet and outlet pipes eliminate the hassle of dealing with water spills during routine maintenance. 6Surface skimmer – Removes unsightly surface oil film to improve oxygen exchange and increase light penetration at the water surface. The Hydra Filtron range consists of: 6Ocean Free Hydra Filtron 1800 Canister Filter, RRP £299.99 6Ocean Free Hydra Filtron 1500 Canister Filter, RRP £239.99 6Ocean Free Hydra Filtron 1000 Canister Filter, RRP £179.99

To be in with a chance of winning one of these filters, go to www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/oceanfree and answer the following question correctly: What kind of technology does the Ocean Free Hydra Filtron Canister Filter contain? A) Fish-Life Technology B) Hydra-Pure Technology C) Impeller-Sense Technology

Terms and Conditions: Competition runs from Wednesday 13 March to Wednesday 10 April 2019. For a full list terms and conditions, visit www.warnersgroup.co.uk/competition-terms/

42

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

TOTAL PRIZE FUND £719.97

BIOTOPES Contest winners

THE BEST BIOTOPES IN THE WORLD

The Biotope Aquarium Design Contest annually hosts the world’s best biotope aquaria. Here are the finest layouts from 2018...

B

IOTOPES HAVE long been soaring in popularity and, much like planted aquascapes, they’ve taken on a life and fan base all of their own. Whether it’s a tank of leaf litter and Apistogramma, or a flowing tank full of boulders and Sewellia loaches, more and more home aquarists are drifting into this exciting genre.

Enter the BADC Since 2011, Oleg Labutov, the creator of the biotopeaquarium.info project, has headed the annual Biotope Aquarium Design Contest, showcasing the world’s best biotopes and ranking them in accordance with a panel

of highly regarded aquatic judges including the likes of long-term PFK contributors Jeremy Gay and Ivan Mikolji, among many others. Over the next 10 pages, we present the top 10 biotopes of 2018 as ranked by the BADC judges. These have been painstakingly whittled down following a record year for entries, with 135 biotope aquaria submitted to the BADC from 43 different countries worldwide. Between them, over 250 different species of fish made an appearance, as well as two reptiles, two amphibians, 22 arthropods and 32 different molluscs. As well as details of each tank, you’ll find a short commentary from PFK editor Nathan Hill, writer Steve Baker, and competition founder Oleg Labutov.

MORE INFO Discover more BADC biotopes at biotope-aquarium.info

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 43

BIOTOPES Contest winners

10

Upper Bladen River, Belize. Submerged wooded stream bank area

What we think Nathan: Lee Nuttall is a regular face in PFK for his stunning biotopes, so it’s no surprise to see him ranking here. When it comes to Central America, there are few biotope designers who are better. Note how striking the Firemouths look in this setting, too. Steve: It’s classic – Central American cichlids and wild strain livebearers, and attention to detail when composing the substrate. I’d like the far right-hand side to be darker to mimic shade from foliage. Oleg Labutov: This author has three entries in the top 10, taking into account a huge competition. This is real proof of high skill. Two of his aquaria show the diversity of biotopes in one river very well.

MORE INFO LEE NUTTALL 6Tank size: 150x60x60cm 6Volume: 540 litres 6Fish species: Cryptoheros spilurus, Thorichthys meeki, Poecilia mexicana, Xiphophorus helleri 6Plants: None 6Decoration: Sand, beech leaves and twigs. Small river boulders, locally collected beech and oak branches 6Water parameters: 27°C/80.6°F, 7.5 pH, 18°GH, NH4 0ppm, NO2 0ppm, NO3 20ppm 6Equipment: Eheim classic 600 with biological and mechanical filtration, Arcadia 38W T8 freshwater lamp, Eheim Thermocontrol 250 heater

44

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

9

Huaiju River, Beijing, China. Rivulet shallow shoal

What we think Nathan: Chinese biotopes are largely denied to UK aquarists as so many fish species are deemed invasive, but this temperate Zacco based set-up gives us a taste of what we’re missing out on. This really does feel like the bottom of a rocky, flowing river. Steve: I love the bank-to-bank feel with vegetation hugging the margins at each end, just like a slice of nature. We may not be able to get Zacco here but the tank would suit plenty of species we can get hold of. Oleg Labutov: This is a great success for a Chinese aquarist utilising local fishes. The placement of the stones looks very natural. The Chinese biotopers in general have a uniquely developed sense of natural beauty.

MORE INFO XIAOLONG LU 6Tank size: 200x50x50cm 6Volume: 400 litres 6Fish species: Zacco platypus, Opsariichthys bidens, Sarcocheilichthys nigripinnis 6Plants: Hydrilla verticillata 6Decoration: River sand and mud as substrate, as well as locally sourced (in China) rocks and wood from the actual habitat 6Water parameters: 18°C/64.4°F, 7.3 pH, 15°GH 6Equipment: 1.8m over-tank ‘sump’ filter in four layers – layer one filter wool, then ceramic biomedia rings in the remaining three layers. Eheim 1102 pump, two LED lamps – 1.8m and 2m

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 45

BIOTOPES Contest winners

8

Subin River, Usumacinta drainage, Guatemala. Shallow grassy river bank area What we think Nathan: Naturally occurring Mollies may not have the colours of their hybrid community kin, but they really dominate this Central American layout. The artificial grasses make the habitat feel both mature and seasonal. Excellent choice of fish for the tank size. Steve: The yellowing fake grass is genius and screams swollen river to me. Being really picky, the wood in the tank slightly takes away that seasonal flood feel – if it was dry when a river flooded, it would float away; if it was waterlogged before a flood, it’s unlikely to lie at the base of the grasses. Oleg Labutov: This is the second entry by Lee with a magnificent natural composition. The timing of the photography is also very cool. We deducted points for cropping photos at the sides, which is unacceptable in the contest.

MORE INFO LEE NUTTALL 6Tank size: 150x50x50cm 6Volume: 375 litres 6Fish species: Firemouth cichlid, Thorichthys meeki; Shortfin molly, Poecilia mexicana 6Plants: Myriophyllum sp. 6Decoration: Sand mixed with beech leaves and twigs, small river boulders. Locally collected beech and oak tree branches and twigs. Also some replica plastic grasses to simulate yellowed underwater grass 6Water parameters: 27°C/80.6°F, 7.5 pH, 18°GH, NH4 0ppm, NO2 0ppm, NO3 20ppm 6Equipment: Eheim classic 600 with biological and mechanical filtration, Arcadia 38W T8 freshwater lamp, Eheim Thermocontrol 250 heater

46

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

7

Tanganyika Lake, Tanzania. Cape Kabogo

A valiant effort, I love the sense of depth and the atmospheric blue

What we think Nathan: A valiant effort, and while I love the sense of depth and the atmospheric blue, the wrong type of snail shells scream out at me. Steve: I’m the opposite. I’ll forgive the shells as Neothauma shells are protected and hard to come by, but in all the images of Lake Tanganyika I’ve seen, the water has a green or brown hue to it. Oleg Labutov: When I look at this aquarium it is difficult for me to distinguish it from the nature biotope. This is a brilliant fake. However, the shells are of the wrong shape, and the fishes have excessively flat bellies, indicating they are not in the best condition.

MORE INFO BARTLOMIEJ PASNIK 6Tank size: 90x50x30cm 6Volume: 135 litres 6Fish species: Neolamprologus similis 6Plants: None 6Decoration: A mixture of different sand grains have been used to replicate natural Tanganyikan lake substrate. Other decoration comprises stones, snail shells and artificial rocks 6Water parameters: 25°C/77°F, 8.5-9.0 pH, 10°GH, 19°KH 6Equipment: Aquael Unimax 250, 6500K 40W LED lighting 6Description of biotope: Tanganyika is one of the Great African Lakes of East Africa, being the longest and deepest of the African lakes – average depth is 570m while the deepest parts reach over 1,400m. It covers an area of over 34,000km2

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 47

BIOTOPES Contest winners

6

Upper Bladen River, Belize. Overhanging tree branches shoreline habitat

What we think Nathan: Some excellent use of narrow branches and twigs create an area of both refuge and interest for the fish, while the inclusion of the rarely championed wild Swordtails brings this tank to life. My only criticism is it looks very ‘clean’ for an authentic biotope. Steve: I don’t like the fact that the wood is the only difference to Lee’s 10th place ranked tank of the same river. Fish, substrate and rock positioning is exactly the same. It’s a nice set-up though, which I’d love in my front room. Oleg Labutov: This is a very spacious and natural-looking biotope aquarium. Lee Nuttall’s works are very easy to recognise. He has his own unique design style and photography technique.

MORE INFO LEE NUTTALL 6Tank size: 150x60x60cm 6Volume: 540 litres 6Fish species: Cryptoheros spilurus, Thorichthys meeki, Poecilia mexicana, Xiphophorus helleri 6Plants: Myriophyllum sp. 6Decoration: Sand, beech leaves and twigs. Small river boulders, locally collected beech and oak branches 6Water parameters: 27°C/80.6°F, 7.5 pH, 18°GH, NH4 0ppm, NO2 0ppm, NO3 20ppm 6Equipment: Eheim classic 600 with biological and mechanical filtration, Arcadia 38W T8 freshwater lamp, Eheim Thermocontrol 250 heater

5

An Giang province, Vietnam. Tra Su forest

What we think Nathan: An aquascaper has been at work here. While the tank initially appears tumultuous, the proportions show that great care has been taken. This tank has heaps of immediate impact.

Steve: It’s a shame we don’t have a full length photo showing whats above the water, I love the floating fauna and the contrast of vivid green above and dark and curious below. Filamentous roots work really well with the wood too. Is the cat from the right area?

Oleg Labutov: In design, this is the best aquarium of the contest. At the same time, its beauty is chaotic and you cannot call it too symmetrical, as in aquascapes. However, the author should take care with the selection of a compatible population.

MORE INFO LUONG QUOC HUNG 6Tank size: 120x60x50cm 6Volume: 356 litres 6Fish species: Dwarf snakehead, Channa gachua; Threespot blue gourami, Trichopodus trichopterus; Mekong mystus, Mystus mysticetus 6Plants: Duckweed, Lemna minor; Tiger lotus, Nymphaea lotus; Water cabbage, Pistia stratiotes; Water snowflake, Nymphoides indica. 6Decoration: Dimocarpus longan wood, Dimocarpus longan roots, Dimocarpus longan leaves, ADA Aquasoil Amazonia substrate 6Water parameters: 27-29°C/84.2°F, 6.2-6.6 pH 6Equipment: External canister filtration, 2 x 108W LED lights 6Description of biotope: Tra Su forest is on the Vietnam/Cambodia border. This is forest with extensive marshland, dominated by Trichopodus gouramis and Channa species of snakehead. Some areas can be as acidic as 2.9 pH

BIOTOPES Contest winners

4

Bełzyce, Poland. Sources of the Kr zniczanka River What we think Nathan: A biotope completed to an invertebrate level of detail – the Water scorpions, Caddisfly larvae and snails take the layout to a whole new level of accuracy. Choice of wood and the green of Veronica plants gives the tank a thoroughly European feel. Steve: I would like to see some sediment reasting on the leaves, maybe some hair algae growing though the plants. Otherwise it’s perfect and I love the inclusion of the inverts. Oleg Labutov: This is a great demonstration of the beauty of northern biotopes. I personally shot exactly the same not far from my home in Peterhof. It is very difficult to distinguish. I believe that these biotopes also deserve attention.

MORE INFO BARTLOMIEJ PASNIK 6Tank size: 100x50x30cm 6Volume: 150 litres 6Fish species: Three-spined stickleback, Gasterosteus aculeatus 6Invertebrates: Lymnaea stagnalis, Nepa cinerea, Trichoptera sp., Ischurna sp. 6Plants: Veronica sp. 6Decoration: Sand, mud and dried woods 6Water parameters: 17-19°C/ 62.6°F, 7.5 pH, 25°GH 6Equipment: Aquael FZN-3 hang on filter, 6500K 30W LED lighting

The Water scorpions, Caddisfly larvae and snails take the layout to a whole new level of detail

50

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

3

Nathan’s Rivers Kumardhara & Netravati, Appinanagadi, India. Rocky shallow water

What we think Nathan: Biotope perfection, from the fraying of the leaf litter to the spore growth on the branches and the skulking of the Etroplus. How this didn’t win, I don’t know. Steve: It looks dirty and messy to me – precisely what I’d like to see more of in some of the other entries. The pebble cluster in the far right corner makes me think of the habitat continuing beyond the tank. Oleg Labutov: This is really a biotope copied in every detail. Everyone can see this by watching the underwater videos used as an example. Even the mucus on the branches is as in the habitat video [See the BADC website for video links].

MORE INFO SERGEY LOBANOV 6Tank size: 150x100x50cm 6Volume: 750 litres 6Fish species: Canara pearlspot cichlid, Etroplus canarensis 6Plants: None 6Decoration: River stones sourced from the Siberian river, poplar and willow branches and twigs, willow and fruit tree leaves, dark sand from a local reservoir and volcanic lava rock substrate 6Water parameters: 25°C/ 77°F, 7.0 pH, 4°GH 6Equipment: 380 litre sump filled with 150 litres filter media consisting sponges, bioballs and Eheim substrat pro. Eheim 1260 pump, 2 x Unistar powerhead powered mechanical filters, Eheim Jager 300W heater, 4 x 10W 6500K LED lights

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 51

BIOTOPES Contest winners

2

Qingdao, China. Stream of Mount Lao after a rainfall in summer

What we think Nathan: Cyprinids, rocks and branches, in a flowing and turbulent aquaium – how much more Chinese biotope can you get? Tank size is perhaps cutting it fine for the likes of active Opsariichthys

bidens (which reach 20cm long), but at the moment they look a great fit. The indigenous snails are a nice touch too. Steve: The tank shot shows stark lighting, which I’m not a fan of, but the close-ups have

very nice shafts of light and shadows, so maybe the photography is to blame. The rest of it I really like. Looking at the image, I would have thought the tank was larger than 120cm. I think the 60cm width has been used well.

Oleg Labutov: This tank represents the first serious success of the Chinese biotopers in the contest. I am glad that the geography of the participants grows, so that we can see these very interesting species of fish that cannot be found in pet shops.

MORE INFO SUN KAI 6Tank size: 120x60x45cm 6Volume: 324 litres 6Fish species: Rhinogobius brunneus, Opsariichthys bidens, Pseudorasbora parva 6Invertebrates: Cipangopaludina cathayensis 6Plants: Phragmites autralis 6Decoration: Stream sand and stones, Chinese wingnut, Pterocarya stenoptera wood and leaves 6Water parameters: 26°C/ 78.8°F, 6.5 pH, 1°GH 6Equipment: Eheim classic 600 External canister filter, 2 x 50W LED

52

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

1

Buenos Aires, Argentina. Banks of the El Espinillo creek in the dry season What we think Nathan: Thoroughly researched, and most of the decoration was hand collected from the type of biotope being recreated. Outstanding authenticity. Steve: Great work, awesome realism and a lovely looking tank. But although I know it’s authentic looking, it still feels composed like a display tank to me. Lovely, but I want something different. Oleg Labutov: This aquarium is good in every sense. This is a comprehensive research work, displayed in the form of beautiful photos and fascinating video. The author approached the case with commendable meticulousness.

MORE INFO WALTER VAZQUEZ 6Tank size: 150x60x60cm 6Volume: 540 litres 6Fish species: Astyanax stenohalinus, Australoheros facetus, Bryconamericus iheringii, Corydoras paleatus, Gymnogeophagus meridionalis, Pimelodella laticeps 6Plants: Ceratophyllum demersum, Ranunculus apiifolius, Schoenoplectus californicus 6Decoration: Locally sourced wood, substrate, rocks and stones, empty snail shells and bivalve shells. Substrate is clay/silt consistency and comes with remains of wood, rushes and thistles from collection 6Water parameters: 20°C/ 68°F, 8.0 pH, 10°GH 6Equipment: 2 x Attman 3338 canister filters, 3 x 6000K LED lights

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 53

If you love your car

you’ll love our Cheapest Price Guarantee* See if you can get insured for less with love from mustard.co.uk

mustard.co.uk or call 0330 022 8381 Ŗ$_bvo@;ubv|o0;-|ou1_;-r;v|omѴbm;Ѵbh;=ouѴbh;1-uķ-moulo|ou0bh;bmvu-m1;to|; $_;]-u-m|;;omѴ-rrѴb;v|o-mm-ѴroѴb1b;v-m7|o|_;0-vb1roѴb1rub1;omѴ $_bv o@;u; 1Ѵ7;v|;Ѵ;r_om;to|-ঞomv-m7omѴ-rrѴb;v|or;ul-m;m|u;vb7;m|vbm|_;&ķ; 1Ѵ7bm]|_;_-mm;ѴvѴ-m7v );u;v;u;|_;ub]_||ou;t;v|ruoo=o=ķ-m7-Ѵb7-|;ķ -Ѵ|;um-|;to|;v-v;ѴѴ-vruoo=o=|_;bm=oul-ঞomoruob7;7|oo0|-bm|_;to|;vŐ; ] 1oro=7ubbm]Ѵb1;m1;ouঞѴb|0bѴѴő0;=ou;ou]-u-m|;;bv_omou;7 lv|-u7 1o hbv -mrrobm|;7!;ru;v;m|-ঞ;o=(-v|(bvb0bѴb|blb|;7_b1_bv|_oubv;7-m7!;]Ѵ-|;70|_; bm-m1b-Ѵom71||_oub|

ADVICE

Answers

Got a fishkeeping question? PFK’s crack team of aquatics experts are on hand to answer whatever you need to know... questions@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk THE EXPERTS

Win

The Question of the Month gets a Tetra goodie box!

Golden orfe can reach 4kg, so they need a sizeable pond

DR PETER BURGESS Pete is our disease expert. Send questions his way if you have pathogen problems.

BOB MEHEN Bob is a master of fishkeeping general knowledge and community tanks.

GEORGE FARMER George is possibly the world’s leading aquascaper. Ask him about plants.

STEVE BAKER Steve is PFK’s resident fish expert and a master on all things freshwater.

Jeremy could write books on all the aquatic info he knows – and he has!

NEALE MONKS Neale is the man for your technical queries. He loves brackish fish, too.

DAVID WOLFENDEN Dave’s so knowledgeable about aquatics he used to teach it. Marines are his ‘thing’.

POND

How big should this pond be? Please could you give me some idea of the size of pond I would need to keep a decent-sized group of Golden orfe? KEITH DANIELS, EMAIL JEREMY REPLIES: It definitely needs to be a large one. The British angling record for Golden orfe now stands at 8lb 5oz, or nearly 4kg in weight, so I would recommend a pond of at least 6x3m (20x10ft) in size. Golden orfe are shoaling fish, known for their propensity for jumping, being sensitive to some medications and being the first to die if oxygen levels in the pond drop before a summer thunderstorm. With all of the above being taken into account, a small lake would probably be even better.

EXPERT AQUARIUM CARE WITH OUR DIGITAL WATER TEST APP, DOWNLOAD HERE:

NEIL HEPWORTH

JEREMY GAY

U Every question we receive gets a reply from our experts. Include as much information as you can about your set-up. Photos are useful, too. 55

ADVICE

Answers TROPICAL

Does temperature determine the sex of shrimp? I started a shrimp breeding project four months ago. After cycling, I added 15 Red cherry shrimp and now have at least 50 in the tank. Water tests are all good and the tank temperature is 24°C. But it seems as though I have a lot more young male shrimps than females. Can the temperature or water chemistry affect the ratio of males to females? Could I try lowering the temperature by a couple of degrees for a few weeks to try to alter this? BRIAN RITCHIE, EMAIL NEALE REPLIES: Yes, there’s some experimental evidence to suggest that temperature does indeed affect the ratio of males to females in Red cherry shrimps. One study I looked at reported a 50:50 ratio at 23°C, but at lower

temperatures more females were seen, while higher temperatures resulted in more males. In fact, at 26˚C fewer than a fifth of the juveniles were female, and the authors suggested that if this pattern holds true in the wild, climate change could cause severe problems for wild Red cherry shrimp populations that find themselves made up mostly of males and very few, if any, females. Of course, other factors may play a role as well, such as pH and even sources of mortality, like starvation. Cichlid breeders have long observed that male fry seem to grow faster and tend to hog the food, causing females to starve or at least grow more slowly. It’s not impossible that something similar happens here. So I’d keep an open mind, thinking about the other

Question of the Month

variables as well, and perform your own experiments if you find that simply cooling the tank doesn’t balance the sex ratio as well as you’d hoped. I’m not aware of when embryonic shrimps become one sex or the other, so the safest approach would be to assume it could happen at any point in the process, even at fertilisation. So, I would keep the breeding colony at the lower temperature if I wanted a balance of males and females. Room temperature may well be more than adequate, and at around 20˚C you should find it’s warm enough for the shrimps to breed, but cool enough that you mostly get females. At really low temperatures, breeding tends to slow down or stop, with 18˚C being perhaps the coolest they can be kept at.

TETRA PRIZE

NEIL HEPWORTH

Brian wins a box of Tetra goodies: 100ml TetraMin and TetraPro Colour foods, Holiday Food, Pleco Algae Wafers, FunTips Tablets, 100ml SafeStart, EasyBalance and AquaSafe water treatments and Tetra Test 6 in 1.

56

EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR HEALTHY FISH

Send your questions to: Fishkeeping Answers, Practical Fishkeeping Magazine, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA. Email us at questions@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

PLANTS

Should I throw these bulbs away? I have a 23 l / 5 gal tank with a clip-on LED light. I planted two Aponogeton bulbs, a water lily and a water onion bulb 11 days ago. But I think they’re rotting. There is white fuzz around all of them and one of the bulbs has a large white patch. The water smells too. Is there any hope or should I remove them? The original plan was for the plants to help with the cycling process. ABIGAIL FLANDERS, EMAIL

The pH of the water is known to affect the sex ratio in broods of Kribensis, Pelvicachromis pulcher. In acidic conditions the number of females increases significantly, while at a neutral pH 7.0, the ratio of males to females in a brood is roughly equal.

STEVE SAYS: Sorry, but I think it’s curtains for your bulbs for some reason or another. Once you get that smell of a rotting bulb, there’s nothing that can be done other than to remove the affected bulbs while you pinch your nose. You don’t say how you obtained these bulbs and I wonder if they came to you by post? If so, they may have got too cold in transit. There aren’t many things that damage bulbs, but they are susceptible to cold and to drying out (which shouldn’t happen if they are packed in a sealed bag). I can’t imagine it’s anything to do with water parameters. Aponogeton generally like softish, slightly acidic water conditions whereas the Onion plant (Crinum sp.) is happy in harder, slightly alkaline conditions, so for the whole lot to suffer, rather than just one type, I think it’s something other than parameters. My advice from here is to remove the offending bulbs and use a gravel syphon to clean the soiled substrate. If you want to try again, either buy bulbs first-hand in a shop – ideally with some growth, even if it’s just one sprouting leaf – or use a mail order company once the weather gets warmer to lessen the risk of them being chilled on the journey.

❯ JOIN US ON FACEBOOK & PINTEREST: TETRA UK

57

ADVICE

Answers Marbled molly

ALAMY

TROPICAL

Have my fish hybridised?

NEALE SAYS: Most hybridisations happen between very closely related species, typically members of the same genus – the first part of an animal’s two-part scientific (or ‘Latin’) name. Hybrid mollies, for example, of the Poecilia genus, are common in the trade, particularly among the popular, fancy varieties. Dalmatian mollies likely inherited their spotted colouration from a spotted form of the Sailfin molly, Poecilia latipinna, while the Black molly is a hybrid based on Poecilia sphenops. Your fish, on the other hand, are not

ALAMY

Baby danio

58

especially closely related. While species such as the Scissortail rasbora, Rasbora trilineata, and the Rosy barb, Pethia conchonius, are both members of the Carp family (Cyprinidae), the rasboras and barbs represent quite distinct lineages separated by millions of years of evolution. This isn’t to say that hybridisation would be impossible, but it would be relatively unlikely. So, if you do have fish that seem different to their parents at the moment, I would be tempted to hold off calling them hybrids until they’ve grown on for a couple of months, and you’ve got some impression of their adult body shape and colouration. In any event, hybrids are something aquarists should be aware of, especially if they’re in the habit of passing on surplus fish to other hobbyists or tropical fish shops. Hybrids aren’t always fertile, but if they are, they will usually breed readily with either of their parent species. So, if you have a hybrid between a Rasbora species and a Pethia species, say, and pass on those offspring to somebody trying to breed one particular Rasbora species, that person will end up with fish containing some Pethia genes. This sort of thing is a real problem for people keeping Central American and Rift Valley cichlids, where accidental hybridisations have caused many of the fish we see in shops to be ‘mutts’, rather than any one particular species. While such fish might look nice enough, things like adult size and social behaviour will be much less predictable in hybrids than in pure-bred or wild-caught specimens.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR HEALTHY FISH

Common aquarium hybrids Parrot cichlids: Man-made hybrid. Nobody knows for sure what was used to develop these cichlids, but it was certainly Central American. Various combinations have been suggested, including Convict, Quetzal, Severum, Red devil and Midas cichlids. Flowerhorn cichlids: Man-made hybrid originating from crossing the Trimac cichlid with a whole host of other central Americans. Synodontis catfish: Those traded under the name of Valentine, Tiger or Zebra syno tend to be hybrids, but there are a lot of other dodgy synos out there. Synodontis euptera crossed with Synodontis ocellifer is sometimes sold as S. longirostris or S. velifer, for example. Rift Valley cichlids: Avoid tanks of fish marked ‘mixed African cichlids’. Chances are, they’re more of a mix than you bargained for. Flowerhorn

Send your questions to: Fishkeeping Answers, Practical Fishkeeping Magazine, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA. Email us at questions@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

NEIL HEPWORTH

Please can you tell me how often crossbreeding happens in small aquariums? My BiOrb contains danios, barbs and rasboras and over the summer I have had both danios and barbs breeding successfully in this set-up. I have saved a few fry of each and transferred them to a nursery tank, but one of the fry has taken a lot longer to grow than the others, and it looks to me as though it might be a cross between a rasbora and either a danio or a barb. Are crossbreeds such as this more delicate, and are they likely to pose any problems to the pure-bred fish in my tank? L R W, EMAIL

TROPICAL

Why are these killies so aggressive?

NEALE SAYS: Male Fundulopanchax gardneri are territorial, like most killifish. While the size of their territories probably isn’t that great, in a small tank it may well be impossible for two males to divvy out the real estate amicably. The obvious solution is to simply move one of the males to another tank, and since these fish are reasonably adaptable and easily fed – by killifish standards at least – they might be kept in a carefully stocked community tank without problems. The more complicated solution is to adopt what’s sometimes called the ‘over-stocking’ approach – add so ma males that it’s impossible for li h a stable te t t

F. gardneri – Steel blue killi.

might fight relentlessly, but a dozen surrounded by floating plants. will get along more or less peacefully. The second issue with Fundulopanchax Of course, the dilemma is that adding gardneri is that they are, like many several more male Fundulopanchax killifish, opportunistic predators. gardneri could exceed your stocking Usually that’s insect larvae and other limits and overwhelm your filtration small prey, but they will consume small system, so this isn’t always a viable fish given the chance. While F. gardneri approach. They are small fish though, are normally pretty safe with all but and allowing 4–5 l/1 gal per additional the tiniest fish (livebearer fry, for specimen should be adequate. example), if they are hungry, or simply It’s also difficult to predict exactly curious, they might snap at an how many males you would ailing Neon that couldn’t stay need to calm them all down. out of the way. Certainly, just adding one or So, it’s hard to say for two additional males is sure why your Neon unlikely to have the desired were attacked. The term ‘killifish’ comes from tetras effect, and more than They might have been the Dutch word ‘kil’, which likely you’d need to add ailing for some other refers to a small stream or six or more. reason, and the killifish In the meantime, you simply took advantage of creek, like those most could try introducing some that. While F. gardneri is killies are found in. t These will usually regarded as one of fi t is in the killifish better suited to mixed species set-ups, like any territorial species, you can end up with individuals that, for whatever reason, act outside the norm. Adding additional males (and better still, two to three times as many females too) might encourage the killifish to interact with each other and ignore their tankmates. Given the small size of these fish and their wide availability, this shouldn’t be too hard to achieve. SHUTTERSTOCK

I have two male Fundulopanchax gardneri and they are persistently sparring with each other. I recently bought eight Neon tetras and over the following couple of days, I lost two of them. The first was acting unusually, with its head facing the gravel. When I checked later, it was floating in the tank, barely alive and eyeless. Next evening, the second Neon, which had had its tail nipped off, was sitting in the flow of the filter alone. In the morning I found it in the mouth of a killie, dead and with one eye missing. That same day, the two killies were being exceptionally aggressive, with one biting the top jaw of the other and turning him over. I did have a female a while ago, but she jumped from the tank and died. Any ideas what I can do to calm this aggression between the males? Is it normal for them to attack smaller fish such as Neons? NATHANAEL BULLOCK, EMAIL

EXPERT AQUARIUM CARE WITH OUR DIGITAL WATER TEST APP, DOWNLOAD HERE:

59

MARINE

Can I add another dwarf angel?

Big tanks are needed for more than one dwarf angelfish.

I have a 120x45x45cm reef tank with mainly SPS corals. It contains a pair of Common clowns, a Pyjama wrasse, a small Purple tang and a Flame angel. Could I add a second Flame angel? I’ve had the current one for around four months and he’s doing really well. If an additional Flame angelfish is risky, is there any other Centropyge that might be okay to keep with a Flame in this set-up? NIGEL, EMAIL DAVE SAYS: Flame angels, like most Centropyge dwarf angelfish, are territorial and aggressive so they require a fair amount of room. Your tank The addition of another dwarf holds a nominal 250 l / 55 gal, angelfish species could be done, but this will probably drop to but there are risks, so to perhaps 200 l / 44 gal minimise the risks of Adding territorial fish after displacement. This squabbling you would together means neither has the would be fine for a single need to ensure that there upper hand initially, but in Centropyge, but I’d be wary of are plenty of visual barriers time they’ll challenge adding another to this set-up. to limit the sightlines each In addition, the existing angel will fish has with the other. each other. already have established a territory, The new fish would also need to meaning newcomers will likely be be very different in colour to the picked on. Flame angel as they will attack

ALAMY

ADVICE

Answers

individuals with a similar appearance. It is possible to keep pairs or even small groups in larger systems, but we’re talking a minimum volume of 500 l / 110 gal, and the fish should all be added at the same time. In your current tank, adding a second Flame angel would be very risky. Your well-established individual is unlikely to accept newly added conspecifics and there is a high likelihood of fighting. I wouldn’t recommend it.

PLANTS

Is a home-made CO2 unit reliable? I have a 70 l/16 gal tropical community planted tank, set up for 14 months. Plant growth is very slow and I’ve lost a lot of them despite feeding with Ferropol root tabs and Ferropol 24 liquid fertiliser. I think the problem is a lack of CO2. I can’t afford a CO2 unit and as I grow Vallisneria, which doesn’t like liquid CO2, this isn’t an option either. Can I make my own CO2 unit and would it be reliable? ESTHER CLARK, EMAIL STEVE SAYS: I’ve put kits together using a fire extinguisher for the canister and buying separate regulator, solenoid and diffuser to try to save money but, to be honest, I’ve not saved much compared to the kits that are now available for fire extinguishers

60

from the likes of CO2Art and others. Also, you come across compatibility issues such as differing threads, which can be a real headache. I’m not a fan of the fermentation kits myself. Although cheap to buy and run, they offer no form of control, meaning CO2 levels are morning (manually) you will have still high during darkness and a stable level of CO2. the amount produced can Performance can be fluctuate – a major increased when water Good secondhand CO2 kits cause of algae issues. flows under the diffuser often come up on both specialist One useable cheap cup, so positioning is system is the very important to use the fishkeeping sites and on basic kit with an inverted flow from the filter or a eBay, so it’s worth cup-style diffuser and a separate, small flow pump. keeping an eye low-pressured can of CO2, like However, if you are likely to out. forget to fill the diffuser daily then Colombo’s CO2 Basic Set. They you’re best off not using one at all don’t add nearly as much CO2 to the until you can afford an automated kit. water, but when they’re filled each

EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR HEALTHY FISH

Send your questions to: Fishkeeping Answers, Practical Fishkeeping Magazine, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA. Email us at questions@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

Why are my Blue mushrooms brown?

What can I do to make my Blue mushroom corals more blue? They’ve turned brown and don’t look anywhere near as colourful as they did when they were on sale in the shop. FINN WEST, EMAIL JEREMY SAYS: There are several factors at play here. All photosynthetic corals turn more brown when nutrient levels in

the water are high. It fuels the brown zooxanthellae symbiotic algae in the coral tissues. Aim to lower nitrate and phosphate levels to less than 5ppm of nitrate. and as close to 0ppm as you can get with the phosphate, and test using a really accurate phosphate test kit. Biopellets, probiotics, granular ferric oxide and macroalgae reactors or refugiums are all popular ways to lower nutrients in reef systems. Next, test your iodine and fluorine levels. Most tend to dip (especially iodine)

yet both can help enhance blue colouration in corals. Also, look at where you have placed the coral in your aquarium. Blue mushrooms, Actinodiscus spp., refract light and look more brown when you look up at them, and more blue when you look down onto the top of them. Most shop coral trays are shallow so the mushrooms look blue. Put it at the top of a deep tank at home and they will look browner than they did. Remedy this by placing it on the substrate, below natural eye level.

Feeding the right amount is hard to define.

TROPICAL

How much should I feed these fish? I am new to the hobby and have built up a 200 l / 44 gal tank containing 20 fish made up of Neon tetras, Platies and guppies, all fairly small at the moment. I don’t know how much I should be feeding at this stage – a pinch of food can vary so much. Any advice on amounts and when to feed would be great, please. MARK STALLARD, EMAIL BOB REPLIES: Feeding fish is seldom an exact science as there are so many variables at play. Different fish require different foods in different quantities. For instance, predatory species may only need one large meal once a week,

while a browsing species might need to eat almost constantly. Similarly, young fish may need smaller, more frequent meals than their adult counterparts. All this being said, most ‘community tank’ fish have similar requirements and your three species all fit into this bracket. From the ‘pinch’ reference you give, I suspect you are feeding flake food. With foods like this it’s impossible to offer a suggested weight or number of flakes as the whole pot seldom weighs more than a few grams and the flakes usually crumble into differing sizes. I would recommend you feed your fish a small pinch of food two or three times a day – basically just enough that they’ll eat

SHUTTERSTOCK

ALAMY

MARINE

all you’ve added within a couple of minutes, so there’s nothing left floating around to pollute the tank. If you’re only using flake food, then I would also recommend broadening your fish’s diet to include other dried foods like granules or tabs. Tabs are great as many can be stuck to the front of the tank, allowing the fish to nibble at them through the day. I’d also suggest trying some frozen foods such as bloodworm or brineshrimp – perhaps just one cube once a week, as a treat. It’s also worth considering adding veg like courgette slices (weighted down) or shelled frozen peas. The guppies and Platies in particular will appreciate these.

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK & PINTEREST: TETRA UK

61

TROPICAL

ALAMY

How do I stop new plants being upr

Plants such as Anubias, Java fern and Java moss can be tied to wood, stones or other decor. As they aren’t planted in the substrate, they won’t be disturbed by bottom-dwellers’ digging. ALAMY

ADVICE

Answers

Please can you offer some advice on how I can keep my new plants in the gravel where they should be? My Corydoras catfish dig so much that anything I add just ends up floating because the roots haven’t grown long enough to anchor them into the substrate. Any tips would be useful. ABRAHAM MILLER, EMAIL

Corys naturally uproot immature plants.

BOB SAYS: Digging fish can wreak havoc with planting schemes in aquariums – it’s probably one of the

reasons why you see so few Corydoras or cichlids in aquascaped tanks. As you have found, once most plants have had a few months to settle, their roots are too well established to be disturbed by the comparatively gentle digging of corys. Newly added plants, however, particularly ‘stem’ ones that don’t typically come with any roots, can end up floating. One solution is to use good old fashioned plant weights. These are typically a thin strip of a heavy type of inert metal (lead alloy or similar) that’s

soft and malleable enough to gently wrap around the base of the plant, anchoring it into the substrate. Just be careful not to squeeze them on too tight as they can crush the plant. More modern alternatives include a plastic ‘peg’ type anchor that pins new plants into the substrate until they have rooted. You could also try placing some small, rounded pebbles or large gravel around the base of the new plants to discourage the corys’ gardening activities, but check these are inert before adding them.

,

Multiple filters

TROPICAL

Where do I put these filter pipes? I have been fishkeeping for just under two years and have recently got a second external filter so I can run two at once. Is there a right or wrong place to position the filter intakes and outlets of each filter in the aquarium? I have found every answer possible online, so I’m still none the wiser. I have a Juwel Rio 125 with an Ocean Free Hydra Filtron 1000 canister filter and I’m adding a Fluval 206. JASON C, EMAIL BOB REPLIES: With a few obvious exceptions, such as out of the tank or

62

too close to the substrate, there really isn’t a right or wrong way to set up your filter intakes and outlets. Some positions, however, may be marginally more efficient or offer better flow patterns than others. My personal preference would be to have both inlets at one end and both outlets at the other. This should mean that you have circulation in a single direction, rather than a potentially turbulent middle of the tank that could mean the fish struggle to swim in a restful, normal manner – natural water courses have flow in a single direction.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR HEALTHY FISH

Bacteria will always colonise the best environment for them to feed and multiply in, and can only produce a population sufficient to deal with the waste profile of your tank. As a result, multiple filters may help to remove more physical debris, but will only have the same bacterial population as a single, suitably sized filter, just spread over the two. However, it does mean that the filters can be cleaned alternately without too much disruption to the bacteria population. Also, if one filter should stop working for whatever reason, there will still be some bacteria in the second filter to deal with the waste.

Send your questions to: Fishkeeping Answers, Practical Fishkeeping Magazine, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough, PE2 6EA. Email us at questions@practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

TROPICAL

I have seen a couple of reef lobsters for sale recently. Are they safe to keep with fish and are they reef friendly? Do they have any specific needs? HARRY BARLOW, EMAIL DAVE REPLIES: There are several species in the genus Enoplometopus that are sold as ‘reef lobsters’. They don’t grow very large (at least compared to the Panulirus ‘rock lobsters’ which can be real whoppers) – most Enoplometopus species top out at around 15cm. Some species are extremely colourful and attractive – you’ll often see Daum’s reef lobster, E. daumi, offered, which is a lovely pink and orange colour, or the Scarlet or Hairy reef lobster, E. occidentalis,

which is a vivid shade of red. It’s best to keep just one specimen if you’re going to plump for one as they can be cannibalistic, especially during moulting. As with many other lobsters, Enoplometopus sp. can be quite cryptic during daylight hours, and require a cave in which to lurk. Aquascaping should be robust and secure to ensure the lobster’s burrowing doesn’t topple rockwork. In terms of compatibility, reef lobsters are opportunistic scavengers and can actually be quite beneficial in keeping those hard-to-reach places clean. They’ll need supplementary feeding too though, and should accept a wide variety of meaty foods. They’re generally peaceful and in a moderately sized system with robust

ALAMY

Will a lobster suit my reef ?

fish they’re not going to create any Enoplometopus issues as they’re not particularly daumi. destructive. However, in nano systems with smaller fish they may create problems as they can walk over corals, which may irritate them, and could also snag the odd fish, especially benthic species.

RICHARD

HEALTH

What’s wrong with my Discus? My largest Discus has developed a swelling at the base of his body. After some research I thought this was constipation and treated with Epsom salts, but it remained. Thinking it might possibly be an internal bacterial infection of some kind, I carried out a three-day course with Esha Hexamita, but again, no change. The swelling does not appear to be getting any larger and

his scales don’t appear to be protruding but it is affecting his swimming. Could you offer any advice, please? RICHARD, EMAIL PETER SAYS: The pictures you sent in were very helpful. The swelling is in the region of the liver and gut, so possibly one or both these organs are affected. I’m assuming this Discus is not a

Discus can be troubled by dietary issues.

recent acquisition (bought in the last couple of weeks, say) and that the other Discus sharing its tank appear normal. Did the swelling develop slowly, perhaps over a few weeks? If so, it may be a tumour, possibly affecting the liver. Dieter Untergasser, in his book ‘Discus Health’, refers to older Discus developing liver and spleen ‘cysts’, which are types of tumours. These abnormal growths can get quite large over time and may press on other internal organs such as the gut and swim bladder, causing further problems. They are, unfortunately, incurable and may eventually kill the fish. Poor diets (especially fatty diets) can cause liver damage and enlargement, and this too could account for a gradual swelling of the abdomen. I’m sure you are feeding a proper diet, but dietaryrelated diseases are something Discus keepers should be aware of, particularly given the continued practice of feeding lots of beefheart. If the swelling has occurred more rapidly, say over days rather than weeks, then it could be a sign of an internal infection and/or possibly a gut blockage. These infections can be caused by bacteria (and sometimes by viruses or parasites). Internal bacterial infections can be tricky to cure using over-thecounter remedies, so you might want to consider contacting your local vet practice with a view to taking the fish in for examination, and see if they agree that antibiotics would be worth trying.

EXPERT AQUARIUM CARE WITH OUR DIGITAL WATER TEST APP, DOWNLOAD HERE:

63

ADVICE

Know-how

On the move Packing up and moving house is stressful at the best of times, but when fish are relocating too, there’s a whole lot more to consider.

64

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

A freelance writer with a day job in aquatics retail, Ingrid is a huge fan of anabantoids and biotopes.

T Get ready

It’s worth collecting together all the equipment you could possibly need a few days before the move. If you have only a short window in which to clear out and load everything up, the last thing you want is to be nipping to the shops every five minutes. Though fish bags and elastic bands are a given, I’d also recommend asking if your local fish shop stocks the big plastic barrels used to transport RO water. Saving a substantial amount of water from your tank (ideally 50% or more) will help your fish settle in better at the other end. This is especially important if you’re moving to a different part of the country where the water chemistry varies hugely from what your fish are used to. Acclimatising my softwater-loving Scottish fish to the hard, alkaline tapwater of the south-east was a challenge, as was getting fish who’d only ever known those hard, alkaline conditions used to the more acidic ones.

Emptying the tank Most of us won’t have time to faff around with buckets on moving day, so if you have a large aquarium, invest in several metres of flexible hosing (the sort sold for external filters). Once you’ve salvaged as much water as you can, run the

Spiny fish may pierce transport bags.

SHUTTERSTOCK

INGRID ALLEN

HE AVERAGE British citizen moves house three times between the ages of 18 and 45, but with a huge increase in the number of under-25s uprooting themselves regularly (in a survey by ‘The Independent’, 54% of respondents said they’d lived in three or more places by their mid-twenties), it would seem our lives are more mobile than they used to be. Having moved five times in the last six years myself, I’ve become something of a pro at managing the chaos of tank transportation, so to help those of you planning a move to transport your fish safely, I’ve honed what often seems a stressful process into a series of simple steps.

residue into the nearest drain. Even tank. Small characins and other if you’re a meticulous gravelmid-water shoaling species can be cleaner, chances are a huge amount literally scooped out of the water of sediment and detritus will be column once plants and ornaments stirred up once you reach the lower have been removed. The more you levels, so it’s a good idea to remove chase a fish around the tank, the all rocks, plants, ornaments and fish more stressful the experience will before you get to that point. be for the fish – and for you. Put rocks, wood, sand and The surest way to avoid stressornaments into spare buckets or related casualties in smaller species polystyrene boxes. Live plants can is to use as little movement as be bagged up in much the same possible. Many of my retail way as fish to stop them colleagues who catch and from drying out. bag up large numbers of Remove your filter fish on a daily basis last of all, as the employ a ‘double culture of good net’ method that If you own aggressive bacteria built up allows them to species like African cichlids, in its sponges drive fish into a ensure you have enough will start to die larger net with a bags to separate all almost immediately. smaller one. of your larger After 12 hours out of Most aquatics shops males. water (about the time it will have plenty of takes to drive from Sussex to polystyrene boxes lying Edinburgh if you hit heavy around to accommodate prickly traffic), they’ll have perished and you predators who might spike their may have to begin the cycle anew. way out of bags. Plecostomus and Synodontis species are the most Catching & transport obvious culprits, but Oscars and Studies have shown that when other large cichlids also have catching small fish, green or blue formidable dorsal rays that they will nets are more effective than black extend if they become stressed out ones as they’re less likely to be or entangled in the bag. mistaken for the dark gaping mouth If using poly boxes, the water of a predator. Go for the largest net level doesn’t need to be particularly that will comfortably fit in your deep. Even monster Koi are usually WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 65

ADVICE

Know-how

packaged with enough water to cover the gill plates, but not much more, despite many been flown to the UK from Japan. Small bunches of plants or loose Catappa leaves can provide a bit of cover. However, it goes without saying that no hard-edged object should be placed in with the fish, not even driftwood.

If transporting fish in bags, ideally there should be about two thirds air to one third water. Not many of us have access to an oxygen tank to inflate the bags fully, but most of us have our own technique for trapping as much air as possible before tying the bag tightly with an elastic band. (Personally I favour the old ‘smash

and grab’ method of opening the top, then very quickly clasping it so it looks like a blown-up balloon.) Bags can then be laid on their sides – to provide more swimming space – and packed tightly into a light-proof box (poly boxes work best for keeping the heat in).

Fret not Most of us worry far too much at this stage, fretting that our fish will suffer horribly en route and we’ll unbox a dozen floating corpses at the other end. This is where a better understanding of the trade can be both helpful and reassuring. It won’t have escaped your attention that the majority of fish you see for sale in shops have not come from UK breeders. In fact, some of the most common species have travelled from as far afield as Thailand, Singapore, Sumatra, Brazil, the US, Kenya, Israel, Hong

Saving a substantial amount of water from your tank (ideally 50% or more) will help your fish settle in better at the other end

How to package your fish for the move 2

3

4

NEIL HEPWORTH

1

Two-thirds air to one-third water keeps the water oxygenated. When travelling long distances, you can use oxygen tablets or compressed O2.

66

Place your fish bags in a polystyrene box for insulation. Cover with newspaper to reduce light shock when you open the box on arrival.

Pack them with care. To stop them rolling around, use extra packing like polystyrene, newspaper, or one or two extra fish bags blown up.

Cover neatly and seal. Depending on temperature and time, you may want to add a hand-warming heat pack like those used when camping.

HANDY HINTS

SHUTTERSTOCK

If you haven’t managed to save any water from your previous set-up, having a small quarantine tank already set up at the other end can be a lifesaver, and helps to relax the whole process a bit. You can take your time aquascaping and arranging the new layout, rather than just having to chuck in all of your fish and plants on the same day. If you’re moving to a different house in the same city (or within a 20-mile or so radius), many aquatics shops will board your fish for a small fee – usually around £5-10 per week. Taking your fish to the shop the week before your move is also much less stressful than trying to catch them on the big day. If fish have been in their bags for more than six hours, immediately remove them from the water they came in, as the second that water makes contact with the air, any ammonia that has built up in the bag from fish waste will oxidise and become much more toxic.

Kong and Niigata in Japan – home to the world’s best Koi farms. By the time these fish reach your local shop or wholesaler, some have spent upwards of 20 hours in their bags. Suppliers almost always include heat packs to protect them in draughty aeroplane holds, but otherwise, there’s little more than the foam sides of their poly boxes to protect them from the hazards of the journey. Casualties are amazingly low. Although such transport is not without risks, even the tiniest species can travel great distances and still be feeding happily the next day.

At the other end If your tank is above 200 l, it’s worth checking the structural integrity of the floors at your new property. Those with concrete floors needn’t worry, but if you’re relocating to a flat or older building, try to find out which way the floor/ceiling joists run. Angling the tank parallel to the direction of the floorboards and against a load-bearing wall is by far the safest option as the tank will likely run over multiple joists, ensuring the weight is spread more evenly. The first thing to get up and running is the filter. If it’s been switched off for more than six

hours, some live bacteria should ideally be added to the sponges to ensure it can still cope with the bioload if all the fish are to be added in one go. Even if you’ve salvaged a substantial amount of water from your fishes’ previous set-up, testing the parameters of your new tapwater is a must. If it’s almost an exact match for what you’re putting in, fill the rest of the tank and the effect on the fish will be no different to doing a substantial water change. If you get dramatically different readings to your previous parameters, err on the side of caution and fill the tank very slowly over a few days to give your fish chance to adjust. Your fish can now be acclimatised in much the same way as if you were adding brand new ones. Though they may appear paler in colour and shyer at first, they will soon perk up and, after a day or so, should be swimming around and feeding as normal. So unless you’re moving five tanks and over 100 fish from one end of the UK to the other, there’s no reason why your hobby should provide excess aggro on moving day. Then again, that’s never stopped me.

The equipment you buy to help with the move depends largely on how far you’re travelling. Oxygen tablets and battery powered air pumps that can be inserted through a hole in the top of a poly box are optional extras, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. Many shops stock some variety of stress-reducing chemical (though stronger sedatives like Koi-calm can knock smaller species out cold). These might be useful, especially if you’re travelling at midday when bright light can mean extra stress for your fish. As far as possible, never lift an aqu arium with even a few inches of water in it, especially if it’s going to be bumping about in the back of a van . Drain it completely before you try to move it. And unless it’s a nano aquarium of less than 60 l, ensure at least two people are on hand to lift it – big aquari ums of 2m-plus can be a six-man job, depending on the thickness of the glass. Lay the tank gently on a large she et of polystyrene for the duration of the journey and wedge lots of heavy items around it to prevent any mo vement.

new home Even if the floor in your s always wise looks perfectly level, it’ level. If you to check it with a spirit , move the want to be doubly sure position, place aquarium cabinet into the cabinet the spirit level on top of and check again.

If you’re moving to an area with very different w chemistry, variou ater s tricks may hel p your fish adju You can try drip st. acclimatisation for delicate spec or add small am ies, ounts of water to the old water you’ve salvaged over the course of a week. For fish that sim ply won’t adapt, have a stack of oak leaves, b ogwood, aquati c soils and other botanicals on h and for softwate r fish moving to hardwater area s. Bring limesto ne, ocean rock, mineral buffers, coral sand and aquarium salts hardwater spec for ies relocating to softwater areas.

These worms are tougher than old boots.

E

ADVICE

Know-how

P SHUTTERSTOCK

LANARIA ARE flatworms that can grow up to around 15mm long in aquaria. You can tell them apart from other aquariumdwelling worms through two obvious features. First, planaria have tiny eyes at the head end. Look from above and if there are two tiny black dots near the front, that’s a planarian. Secondly, look at the head. If it’s rounded and blunt, then chances are you have harmless Rhabdocoela worms. If it’s shaped like an arrow with a broad triangular point, that’s a troublesome planarian. The ‘wings’ on the head are chemical nd tactile sensors (like catfish skers) to help them hunt. r tank is a leaf-ridden biotope, to love them. If you’re a er, breeding many prize ou’ve got a problem. enera associated irst is the of the genus rent to uts of h or

WHAT ABOUT MY SNAILS? Planaria are very fond of snail eggs and will eat them where they find them. While this does have a degree of control over nuisance snail populations, it will blight keepers of fancy nerites.

snails, shrimplets, crustaceans, fish and shrimp eggs and even adult shrimps. At full size they’ll nail adult Daphnia. When a shrimp gets near to them, they’ll lunge for it, getting under the shell and eating the living flesh.

Where do they come from? zoophagous, hunting down smaller inverts including snails, worms, leeches and copepods, and in order to help them do that they produce a mucus secretion – it also makes them less palatable to predators. While the evidence is thin on the ground, it would appear that this secretion has a toxic effect on shrimps – or more specifically when the planaria invade the carapace of a shrimp. The other genus is the white planarian, Procotyla fluviatillis, which is the most common aquarium denizen. If brown planarians are accidental hazards for shrimps, then the white ones are a zombie apocalypse. White planarians are active hunters. They’ll happily eat their own kind hen they’re chasing

Planaria come in hidden on plants, wood and any other submerged decoration. They may even arrive directly on a fish or in the shell of a shrimp. Most are hermaphrodites. When two meet, one slides on top of the other, moving over it to stimulate it. Then they lift their tails and copulate in an act that can last up to an hour and a half. After that, they’ll deliver cocoons of eggs that will each release a handful of newborns. Planaria can also asexually reproduce, budding off an extra head from themselves and eventually dividing in two. Temperature plays a role in reproduction, with higher temperatures leading to budding, while sexual reproduction happens in cooler conditions. Some fishkeepers make the mistake of trying to ‘squish’ the worms when they see them. But bash a planarian against the glass, or try grinding it

ADVICE

Know-how

up in a handful of substrate and it’ll be back in greater numbers. Planaria pieces regenerate at incredible speed. Get one, chop it into five pieces, and within a week or so you’ll have five fully formed worms. Each portion will wiggle off and do its own thing, growing some new eyes and a fresh mouth. Like other nuisance invertebrates in a tank, planaria are a symptom of bad husbandry. Much as snails will thrive in any tank where

there’s detritus, planaria will flourish in any tank that caters to their needs. While they are active micropredators, the worms are happy to fatten up on any easy available food sources. Tanks with uneaten dry food on the base are prime real estate for the worms. A dead fish left in the aquarium will cause a population explosion, while tanks where live foods of Daphnia, bloodworm and Cyclops are offered – fine cuisine for planaria – are particularly prone to outbreaks. Leafy biotopes are also prime candidates for a planaria population, because the deep organic beds give CAN I WAIT FOR THEM rise to all the organisms that the worms like to TO JUST DIE? prey on. However, While there’s no literature on the it might be argued lifespan of planaria, it appears that in such a they have a near infinite ability to natural setting, these regenerate their tissues, and can important predators even absorb their own tissues play an essential as energy in the event of role in biotope long-term starving. management and may be best left alone.

Special planaria traps are available.

How do I control them?

NEIL HEPWORTH

White planaria are a menace.

In a fish-only system, you could try a copper-based snail medication. Results appear to be mixed, with some aquarists reporting success and others noting no effect. If you have shrimps or snails, then this is a no-no, as copper is highly toxic to both. Next option is to try a planaria trap. You can buy these cigar-shaped traps online – JBL’s PlaCollect is available for under £10. All you do is place some bait into the trap at night – raw chicken or beef liver works well – and submerge it in the tank. The

HOW DO I IDENTIFY PLANARIA ATTACKS? Due to the toxic secretions, shrimp with a planaria infestation become lethargic and unresponsive as they become stunned. If you see offbalance shrimps struggling to move on the tank bottom, have a close look. Chances are you’ll see the worms moving over and under the shell as they eat the dying shrimp.

70

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Well-fed fish won’t eat planaria.

SENSORY LOBES

EYESPOTS

GANGLIA

SHUTTERSTOCK

GASTROVASCULAR CAVITY

PLANARIA CAN REGENERATE EITHER END!

small entry points allow the worms access but make it hard for them to escape. While a trap will help to control populations, it’s unlikely to catch all the worms, however. Fenbendazole-based dog wormers are used by some aquarists, but establishing the correct dose is difficult, and not recommended without consulting a vet first. Some aquarists have reported limited success using NT Labs Anti-Fluke & Wormer treatment, although the

active ingredient in this is different. Note that fenbendazole will also kill any snails you have in the tank. The best treatment is betel nut extract, found in Genchem’s No Planaria. A single treatment should be sufficient to wipe out most populations, although you need to follow up after 72 hours with a partial water change, and replace any carbon to remove the last of it. Note that betel nut can still affect snails, so expensive or desired

VENTRAL NERVE CORDS

PHARYNX

specimens should be relocated first. Also note that a handful of keepers have reported deformed shrimp offspring after use, though whether this is linked isn’t known. A 50g bag of No Planaria costs under £15. Any method of control should also incorporate a tank overhaul. Remove the food source that the worms are eating or they’ll soon be back. A series of water changes with gravel cleans, and an appraisal of your feeding routines is essential.

ABOVE: Planaria biology.

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 71

SHUTTERSTOCK

WILL FISH EAT THEM? While there are many species of fish that eat planaria – such as Dwarf gourami types (Trichogaster) – the paradox is that if you have a planaria problem it’s almost guaranteed that the tank is getting overfed, and those fish have no incentive to hunt down the worms.

FOR EIG N

IES BOD

ADVICE

Know-how

WHAT HAPPENS?

Foreign body ingestion can occur in all animal species, including aquatic ones. Vets are often presented with this problem in fish, as well as other species such as Axolotls. Depending on the nature of the ingested object, animals may or may not be able to regurgitate the offending matter without assistance. This also depends on individual species’ anatomy.

WHAT ARE THE SIGNS?

Changes in behaviour or swimming may be a subtle indication of ingestion of a foreign body. Objects such as pebbles, for example, are not always visible externally, especially when lodged deep in the oral cavity. It is vital the tank is examined for any missing objects, especially decorative pieces, but this may be difficult in set-ups with loose substrate. Gasping or ‘piping’, erratic swimming, holding the fins close to the body, hiding near the bottom of the enclosure, or sudden onset WHAT WILL anorexia are just some examples of abnormal behaviours related to this MY VET DO? problem. Acute or chronic buoyancy Due to the risk of ongoing issues may also be a non-specific trauma to internal tissues, sign of foreign body ingestion. your vet will probably ask you to bring the animal into the practice as soon as possible. Radiography is a quick and non-invasive way to establish the nature and size of the foreign body, as well as its location and positioning, which is vital in attempting any removal. Sedation of the animal is often required for this procedure to prevent any further trauma, but this can be achieved quickly and effectively in most species. WHAT CAN I DO AT HOME? After removal of any foreign body, your vet may External examination of the fish is prescribe a course of anti-inflammatories and antibiotics important in establishing what the for you to take home, depending on the type of the object problem may be before making any removed and the inflicted injury. These medications are attempt to handle it. Handling the animal available in oral or injectable forms. may cause severe distress and, as the fish The most important thing in cases of foreign is already in an compromised state, may body ingestion is quick thinking and quick action. lead to injuries. Depending on the nature Gill damage, necrosis or oral cavity scarring of the ingested object, excessive or forceful can occur quite rapidly and, even after the object handling could lead to severe gill damage. has been successfully removed, may cause If gentle massaging and pressure upon further issues post-ingestion, sometimes leading the oral cavity is unsuccessful, contact your to weeks of follow-up treatment. nearest exotic veterinary practice immediately.

72

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

VET’S CASE STUDY When Florence the goldfish swallowed something she shouldn’t, an emergency trip to the vet was in order. A goldfish named Florence was presented to Trinity Vet Centre in Maidstone, Kent, after its owner observed it trying to regurgitate a small black object. It was presumed that the object had been ingested earlier that day as this behaviour had only been displayed for a few hours. The owners had tried to remove the object with the goldfish still in the tank, but they were unsuccessful and so brought the fish into the clinic. On physical examination, the goldfish appeared to be bright, alert, responsive and in good body condition. It did not display any swimming or balance abnormalities, and no external physical abnormalities were detected. A small, round black object could be seen in

the goldfish’s mouth intermittently each time it tried to regurgitate. It was recommended that the goldfish was anaesthetised to facilitate removal of the foreign body. The goldfish was anaesthetised using 2-phenoxyethanol (Aqua-Sed) at a concentration of 500ppm added to a small volume of water that had been removed from its tank. Anaesthesia was achieved after five minutes, and was determined by a loss of righting reflex. A dorso-ventral X-ray was taken to confirm the presence of only one foreign body. A single, small, radiopaque object was visible on the radiograph, just inside the mouth. A small pair of artery forceps was used to retrieve the object, which was

discovered to be a small, flat, circular pebble. The fish was then immediately placed back into its original transport tank and moved around the container until it had regained its righting reflex. A small amount of bleeding was noticed coming from the right-side gills – this was thought to be due to mild trauma associated with the removal of the foreign body and stopped after two minutes. The goldfish was observed for several more minutes before being returned to its owner. It was recommended that the tank substrate be changed to a much larger pebble size to avoid reingestion in the future. Florence the fish returned home, and has not ingested any foreign bodies since. Example of how easy it is for a fish to eat gravel that’s not the correct size.

Florence and the stone that was removed.

The shape of a goldfish’s mouth if it has swallowed a foreign body. X-ray of Florence.

AGATA WITKOWSKA & NISHA TUCKER Agata is a small animal and exotic clinician at Trinity Vet Centre, with a special interest in diagnostic imaging. Vet Nisha interned in Europe and Central America, joining Trinity in 2018.

Florence lives! WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 73

COMMUNITY Temperate tanks

WARM FRONT Choose carefully and a temperate community tank can contain just as much colour and personality as any tropical aquarium.

INGRID ALLEN A freelance writer with a day job in aquatics retail, Ingrid is a huge fan of anabantoids and biotopes.

74

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 75

NATHAN HILL

Red shiner, Cyprinella lutrensis.

COMMUNITY

NEIL HEPWORTH

Temperate tanks

C

ONVINCING INEXPERIENCED fishkeepers that modern aquarium heaters are totally safe is one of the most tedious parts of a retailer’s job. And who can blame them when horror stories of yesteryear’s malfunctioning heaterstat technology, and diagrams showing Bunsen burners beneath fish tanks haven’t yet disappeared from our collective memory. Luckily, most aquatic shops stock a wide range of fish species that don’t need a heater at all, but for a while now I’ve sought to discover whether there was more to the fish and plants of this misunderstood sector than a drab substitute for tropical species.

Temperate world In the average British home, an unheated tank can vary from 15-23°C, depending on the time of year. Provided it’s out of direct sunlight and the temperature changes are never too drastic, this can be ideal for species that would enjoy the same seasonal range in the wild. Anyone keeping Koi or goldfish in a pond will have witnessed the effects of varying temperatures on their fishes’ appetites. In summer, they might be gulping at the surface the second a shadow passes over; in winter, when metabolisms slow 76

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

right down, they skulk, almost lifeless, species that like similar temperature at the bottom. While most of the ranges tend to be a bit scarcer. research into the effects of climate At present, it’s near impossible to on feeding involves sporting species import the beautiful North American like trout, it’s equally applicable to Rainbow darter, Etheostoma indoor temperate aquariums. caeruleum, to the UK without a Since fish can metabolise more licence – a great shame as they’re protein in warmer water, not only fascinating to watch, but a experiments carried out on good indicator of water quality as Common carp and Atlantic salmon they only inhabit pollution-free found significant growth increases rivers. Most of the Sunfish enjoyed when water temperatures were in the hobby throughout the ‘80s raised by as little as 5°C. and ‘90s seem to have Working out just how much disappeared too. food temperate fish need On a brighter note, the at different times of Rainbow shiner, year can be a Notropis chrosomus, challenge. Tiny is gaining in Give Cryptocoryne legroi species like the popularity. A plants some iron-enriched White Cloud colourful native of fertiliser to help them Mountain minnow, the Mobile River keep their Tanichthys albonubes, are system, which stretches colour. content with just one or from north-east Alabama to two small meals a week, while the Gulf of Mexico, few the grazing Tiger hillstream loach, temperate species can match this Sewellia lineolata, needs a constant modest-sized cyprinid for sheer supply of palatable algae. wow factor. Watching a shoal Most temperate species enjoy acclimatising, I struggled to work intense flow, but lighting should also out what colour they were supposed be strong to allow algae to build up to be, with everything from blues for grazing species. and purples to reds and oranges on show as they interacted. Colourful choices Though they can take a year to Temperate fish in the trade tend to reach sexual maturity and rarely originate from two distinct regions. live beyond 22 months in the wild, The minnows, danios and gobies of the Rainbow shiner is relatively South East Asia can be found in easy to keep and breed as long as every aquatics store, but American appropriate flow and good water

ABOVE LEFT: The Mackerel barb is a shoaling fast-flow lover. ABOVE RIGHT: Many plants do well in cooler conditions.

NEIL HEPWORTH

Research is still ongoing, but studies suggest super-hardy Zebra danio may even be capable of making a full recovery from fractures in the spinal column.

FACTFILE WHITE-CHEEKED GOBY 6Scientific name: Rhinogobius duospilus 6 Origin: Mostly China, with scattered populations in neighbouring Asian countries 6 Habitat: Fast-flowing rivers and streams with sandy bases 6Size: 3-5cm 6 Tank size: 80x30x30cm for a pair, much larger for a group 6 Water requirements: 7.0-8.5 pH, upwards of 10°C. Can also live in brackish water 6 Temperature: 18-22°C with a much higher level of dissolved oxygen needed in warmer water 6 Temperament: Males fiercely territorial, but shy around larger tankmates 6 Feeding: Live or frozen bloodworm, glassworm, brineshrimp, Daphnia. Will also graze algae to supplement its diet 6 Availability and cost: Uncommon; £5 upwards

NEIL HEPWORTH

70 l+

The Zebra danio is active, attractive and tough.

ALAMY

White-cheeked Rhinogobius goby.

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 77

COMMUNITY Temperate tanks

3

4

78

Asian temperate plants are more varied but one family, endemic to Sri Lanka, stands out for diversity and adaptability – the Cryptocoryne. Frequently overlooked, they are often darker in colour than your average aquatic plant and prone to ‘melting’ when added to a new tank (meaning a fair few leaves may drop off), but they add tremendous variety. Crypts appreciate good flow and will become bushier and glossier when planted in the firing line of additional powerheads. Give the taller species, such as C. beckettii and C. balansae, plenty of space, even if they seem small to begin with. Add a bit of Java fern, Microsorum pteropus, tied to bogwood or rocks if you want. The tiniest Crypts – C. parva being no taller than dwarf hairgrass – can be used like a carpeting plant, and if you want something other than dark green, try the lovely amber C. legroi. Adding shoals of Asian temperate species to this lush Cryptocoryne forest is easy. Danio varieties will mix happily with White Clouds and neon-bright cyprinids like the Rosy barb, Pethia conchonius, in multiple

Rainbow shiners display a kaleidoscope of colour.

BELOW: 1. Java fern 2. Hornwort 3. Bacopa 4. Crypt. parva

SHUTTERSTOCK

2

Cryptocoryne forest

SHUTTERSTOCK

1

ALAMY

SHUTTERSTOCK

quality are maintained. In the wild, fish over a year of age experience heightened growth rates in spring with temperatures of 16-25°C, so adding a small heater at a very low setting may help little shiners to bulk up. Although unrelated, the Rainbow shiner can be found alongside the much larger Red shiner, Cyprinella lutrensis, the males of which can reach 9cm. Care requirements for the two species are near identical and they will shadow each other beautifully in a large mixed shoal. A biotope for the two can make a great project, with tanks of 120-300 l being more than enough to house a sizeable shoal. Length of tank is more important than volume as, like their distant Carp relatives, shiners build muscle by swimming in strong currents. Few plants can tolerate torrent from additional powerheads and still grow at low temperatures, but a curtain of Vallisneria at the back of the tank will provide cover. Hornwort, Ceratophyllum demersum, is another good addition to an unheated set-up and will fit nicely into any biotope project. The Bacopa family of the southern United States can thrive at cooler temperatures and there are a variety of leaf shapes to choose from. Bacopa caroliniana is fast-growing and takes on different shades of green, orange or red in the right light, while Bacopa monnieri adds height and even flowers when grown as an emergent species.

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

shades of pink, orange and yellow, or the subtler but equally lovely Rosy bitterling, Rhodeus ocellatus. If you’re a newbie, you can’t go wrong with an old favourite, the seemingly indestructible Zebra danio, Danio rerio. We may shudder at the idea now, but there was a time when these fish – such is their hardiness – were used to fish-incycle new aquariums in preparation for more delicate species.

FACTFILE RAINBOW SHINER 6Scientific name: Notropis chrosomus 6Size: Up to 8cm, but usually smaller 6Origin: Southern United States 6Habitat: Fast-flowing rivers, but also found in smaller streams and sandy pools along the Mobile Bay drainage 6Tank size: 100x40x30cm – the longer the better 6Water requirements: 6.8-7.8 pH, under 25°H. Will acclimatise to a wide range of different water conditions over time 6Temperature: 10-20°C but aim for 15-18°C to see them at their best 6Temperament: Active shoaler, enthusiastic feeder, generally peaceful 6Feeding: Flake, pellet, frozen or live brineshrimp, Daphnia and other insect-based foods 6Availability and cost: Varies depending on availability, but expect to pay £5-15 per fish

40 l+

SHUTTERSTOCK

Buenos Aires tetras will eat soft-leaved plants.

ALAMY

South American set-up

The Buenos Aires loves planted Should danios and minnows be too tanks. That is, it loves chomping commonplace for you, why not soft-leaved species right down to consider a South American set-up their stems like some sort of crazed filled with hardy species you’d veggie Piranha, so tough foliage is a normally find in the tropical section? must. Though peaceful in a large Many of our favourite South shoal, they will outcompete shyer Americans are found right at mid-water swimmers for food, the top end of the tropical but with targeted feeding, a range (with Discus, group of Peppered corys, Rams and Cardinal Corydoras paleatus, tetras quite happy will live happily Both American and Asian in temperatures alongside them. biotopes will benefit hugely from closer to 30°C), These charming the addition of large but there are catfish have all still some gems the quirks of their rounded stones and a found in the more tropical cousins minus smattering of seasonal habitats. the need for a heater. pebbles. Argentina’s varied climate If you feel you’re missing is a good place to start. The out on livebearers, the Variatus Buenos Aires tetra, Hyphessobrycon platy, Xiphophorus variatus, fills the anisitsi, rarely gets a look-in among niche nicely. Compared to the other true tropicals as its drab juvenile temperate livebearers (such as the appearance puts off many potential characterful but dull-coloured owners. But as it matures, taking on Goodeids or Pupfish), they are deep red fins and a body that seriously colourful, with both a sky appears to be simultaneously green blue morph and the classic red and and gold, it soon turns heads. gold variety common in the trade. WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 79

COMMUNITY Temperate tanks

With tiny amounts of aquarium salt added, they’ve been known to reach a fair size too, so you might need a larger tank sooner than anticipated.

Cherry on top

Rhinogobius genus is worth checking out if you want a characterful fish. One standout oddity reflects the diversity of temperate species better than most. The Paradise fish, Macropodus opercularis, was one of the first ornamental species imported to Europe, and has all the bravado of its better-known cousin, the Siamese fighter. Being larger and more boisterous, it can dominate a set-up and tankmates should be chosen with care. Although it will obliterate goldfish, it usually behaves itself in the company of much smaller species – a shoal of Vietnamese cardinal minnows, Tanichthys micagemmae, would look stunning.

BELOW: The Paradise fish is an underrated beauty.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Now for the unexpected cherry on the cake of the unheated aquarium. Did you know there’s a bright green ‘Oto’ that can live in room temperature water? Technically, it’s not a member of the Otocinclus genus (though it’s generally sold as such), and while only described in 2004, it already has a long waiting list of fans. The Green oto, Hisonotus aky, is literally the jewel in the crown of Argentinian catfish, being a fetching shade of emerald.

It thrives in small groups when given access to the Amazon sword plant, Echinodorus bleheri. Green otos aren’t common in the trade, though, so if you want one you’ll no doubt have to join a very long queue. Another colourful and unusual centrepiece is the lovely Mackerel barb, Opsarius pulchellus. This gorgeously patterned cyprinid can easily reach 15cm in the wild, but will dazzle those who’ve got the space to comfortably house a shoal. By contrast, the White-cheeked goby, Rhinogobius duospilus, isn’t as colourful, but is full of personality. Males routinely flare their gills and spit sand at each other in disputes over territory. In fact, the entire

Green otos are much sought after, but they’re challenging fish to keep.

FACTFILE

108 l+ Flag waver The Americas boast a striking and adaptable outsider too, in the form of the Florida flagfish, Jordanella floridae. You’d be forgiven for thinking this neon-bright killi was some sort of GM-dyed experiment, but it’s entirely natural and not afraid to show off its bold colours when

squaring up to anything and everything. Smaller tankmates will be ignored, but if you want to add anything larger, opt for sedate algae-eaters like Bristlenose plecos of the Ancistrus genus. The robust Hoplo catfish, Megalechis thoracata, makes a great tankmate for almost any temperate species. Pretty much the fishy equivalent of a 4x4 vehicle, these greedy, armour-plated cats will rarely allow themselves to be picked on, and their constant snuffling will keep your sandbed in great shape too. One adult Hoplo (a formidable 15cm) needs a suitably

large tank, but will do the job of at least four Corydoras and, better still, its diminutive mouth prevents it from predating anything bigger than an Endler guppy. In the end, it doesn’t matter whether you’re a biotope purist, or like to mix it up a little, the temperate community can contain just as much colour and personality as any tropical tank. So the next time a fellow fishkeeper tells you temperate is ‘all minnows and danios’, wouldn’t it be nice to have a colourful, planted but unheated set-up that would make them eat their words?

ABOVE: The Florida flagfish is full of colour.

FACTFILE GREEN OTO

6Scientific name: Hisonotus aky 6Origin: Native to two specific streams flowing into the Ro Uruguay in north-east Argentina 6Habitat: Rainforest habitat with moderate flow. Often found on the popular Amazon sword plant 6Size: 3.5cm, though potentially larger 6Tank size: 60x30x30cm for a small group 6Water requirements: Very soft, neutral to acidic, 6.5-7.5 pH, 2-10°H 6Temperature: 18-25°C 6Temperament: Completely peaceful, will tolerate a wide range of tankmates 6Feeding: Spirulina, algae pellets, gel foods, fresh veg and a little insect meal for added protein. Give them access to the Amazon sword plant, Echinodorus bleheri, especially when young, to achieve the optimal growth rate 6Availability and cost: Rare – try specialist retailers like Pier Aquatics; from £9-15

40 l+

NEIL HEPWORTH

6Scientific name: Jordanella floridae 6 Origin: Southern Florida down to the Yucatan peninsula. Feral populations in Queensland, Australia, see be thriving 6 Habitat: Slow-flowing swamp still lakes and marshes with lots of vegetation 6 Size: Males up to 6.5cm, females smaller 6 Tank size: 90x30x30cm for a individual, 100x40x30cm for 6 Water requirements: Hardy a adaptable, 6.7-8.2 pH, 6-20°H 6Temperature: 16-24°C 6 Temperament: Peaceful towards smaller species, but may show aggression to colourful tankmates their own size. Males extremely territorial 6 Feeding: Spirulina flake, algae wafers and other green foods. Will accept fresh veg and may nibble aquarium plants 6 Availability and cost: Uncommon; from £3.50-8

SHUTTERSTOCK

FLORIDA FLAGFISH

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 81

SPECIES SHOWCASE Dwarf gourami

The little big

Gourami Dwarf by name, giant by character, this is a gourami that will brighten almost any tank that can handle it. WORDS: NATHAN HILL

82

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

ALAMY

Marine-grade markings on a freshwater fish. WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 83

SPECIES SHOWCASE Dwarf gourami

O

RNAMENTAL FISH farming has been a blessing and a curse. While farming can reduce the pressure on stocks of wild-caught fish, the procedure comes at a cost. In the case of the Dwarf gourami, Trichogaster lalius, that cost has been the emergence of a brutal and untreatable illness. Some of you will have tried to keep Dwarf gouramis already. A large number will have failed to do so. Even the successes may be hollow if they amounted to keeping the fish alive for around a year – natural lifespans, as ‘70s and ‘80s fishkeepers will tell you, were often three or four years. It’s important to know that these failures are probably not your fault. Dwarf gouramis have long been

£7.50 a pair, and that gets you a male and a female. A typical pair of dwarf cichlids, like Apistogramma, will cost you over double that for a smaller fish that’ll hide more.

some floating plants or polystyrene and a lot of decent food to condition the adults into spawning mood. It really is easy.

Husbandry: You have to offer Sexing: I mean, how easy do you some absolutely terrible food for a want to make it? Is it incredibly Dwarf gourami to reject it. They are colourful? Then it’s almost good over all substrates, with certainly a male. Is it smaller, plastic plants or real plants, silvery and with a little and aren’t big jumpers. plump belly? That’ll be Apart from some your female right initial shyness and a there. There are little territorial Some Dwarf gourami can some colourful flaring by the be trained to ‘spit’ for food like line-bred males of the an Archer fish. Encourage females out there species, they are this by using tongs now, for sure, but for good as gold and to offer them the best part they’re still wholly undemanding. insects. easy to tell apart. They’re also pretty unfussy with their water chemistry, Breeding: We’ll go into this in and an aquarium with a pH more detail later, but as bare basics anywhere between 6.0 and 7.6 will you need a smallish tank set-up, usually do just fine.

BELOW: The neon or cobalt blue line-bred variant.

Dwarf gouramis are drawn to anywhere that’s heavily planted. Typical riddled with Dwarf gourami iridovirus, or DGIV. Being a virus, there are no medications that are known to be effective against it, on or off the market. The disease spreads quickly and is highly infectious. Worse, it is rife. One study suggested that over a fifth of all farmed Dwarf gouramis coming out of Singapore alone carried the disease. In the face of that, why even bother with Dwarf gouramis at all? Well, let’s address that point by point. Size: Dwarf gouramis are small, but not Neon tetra small. They’re in that ‘Goldilocks’ zone of not being too small to be vulnerable, not too big to be predatory. They are ‘just right’ at a maximum 7cm or so. Colours: It’s rare that you get coral-reef calibre markings on a freshwater fish, but the Dwarf gourami is one species that’ll give any marine Damselfish or Tang a run for its money. Admittedly, some colours can be exaggerated in some breeds, but these can be avoided if that’s an issue. Price: A typical pair of Dwarf gouramis will set you back about 84

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Buying for health The greatest stumbling block to success is sourcing healthy stock. The figures look bad, but remember that even on the worst outlook, around 80% of farmed Dwarf gouramis are disease free and healthy. You just need to make sure you choose correctly. As almost all of the Dwarf gourami iridovirus cases seem to be linked directly to farmed fish, the first sensible option will be to see if you can source wild-caught. There is a payoff here, as wild fish specifically require softer and more acidic water than their farmed counterparts, but the benefit is that they will be virus free. If your tank has a pH below 7.0, this is a very real option. The next buying tip is so obvious you shouldn’t need reminding. Never buy from a tank where there

Where in the world? The native range for Dwarf gouramis is through Pakistan, India and Bangladesh. Beyond that, feral populations exist in the USA, South America (including Colombia) and Singapore. Unconfirmed sightings have been reported further across South East Asia.

habitats include ponds, pools, slow-flowing streams, swamps and canals

BELOW: The red neon linebred variant.

NEIL HEPWORTH

looking milky, then walk away. The eyes are a good measure here, too. They should be clear, with no white hue to them. While we’re on the eyes, are they set right in the head? Sunken eyes can be a sign of wasting associated with the virus. Bulging eyes can be an early sign of dropsy, which is a particular blight to virus-infected

NEIL HEPWORTH

are obviously diseased or dead fish. Say it with me now: “I will not buy from a tank with diseased or dead fish in it.” There, good. An awful lot of folks seem to be ignoring that rule lately. Next up, look at the colours. A healthy, virus-free Dwarf gourami has bright and vibrant colours. If it’s looking pale or, worse, if it’s

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 85

SPECIES SHOWCASE Dwarf gourami

ALAMY

When it’s time to spawn, the two will form an interlocking embrace (like two horseshoes) underneath the nest

NEIL HEPWORTH

In nature the Dwarf gourami feeds on insects and larvae on the water’s surface as well as grazing algae from plant leaves.

Male and female embracing under a nest.

ALAMY

For a biotope, you’ll be wanting the natural strain.

females. Dropsy is what happens when the kidney fails and the fish can no longer regulate the amount of fluid in its body. As the disease progresses, the fish can blow up so much that the scales stick out like a pinecone. If any fish in the tank are like this, walk away. While not as outgoing as a cichlid, Dwarf gouramis shouldn’t be too shy or nervous either. If you’re peering into a tank where everything is huddled together in one corner, that’s a bad sign. Look at the upper half of the fish, where the muscle connects to the dorsal fin. One of the symptoms of DGIV is muscle wasting, and this is where it is most obvious. If the fish’s muscles are concave, rather than outwardly rounded, this is a surefire sign of either the disease or chronic malnourishment – both reasons to walk away. Finally, look for lesions. Anything that looks like a tiny sore is a strong indication of a compromised immune system. Any little white patches with a red dot in the middle (usually around the head) are also the sign of a compromised immune system. Avoid!

Going authentic In the wild, Dwarf gouramis are drawn to anywhere that’s heavily planted. Typical habitats include ponds and pools, slow-flowing streams, swamps, canals and even rice paddies. Setting up a home tank is easy. Anything over 60cm is fine for a single pair, while 90cm or more is needed for multiples (due to the territorial nature of the males). If you fancy it, an open-topped tank can work to your advantage, too. Decoration needn’t be elaborate: a couple of small branches is more than enough. The emphasis needs to be on plants – heaps and heaps of plants. You have plenty to choose from, too. There are over 85 different types of Fissidens alone from India, as well as Potamogeton, Pogostemon, and Hygrophila to name just the tip of this iceberg. If you want an easy ride, go for either a planting substrate or silver sand and plant with a few sprigs of Wisteria, Hygrophila difformis. You won’t need much as it’s a fast grower, and you can keep taking cuttings (look for where the stems of the plants are dropping new roots

and cut just behind them) and replanting. Your tank will be a sea of green in no time. Alternatively, get a richer (read: more expensive) planting substrate and toss in rice seeds. It’ll take a while for the rice to start growing, but when it does it’ll give you a naturally grassy tank. Get ready to trim back though, as rice will easily grow to 3ft tall. If you’re cool with that, it could make for an amazing open-topped biotope.

Why do they feel things? Dwarf gouramis have extended ventral fins on the underside of their body, which you’ll often see them pushing out to ‘probe’ things. These fins are both tactile and covered in tastebuds, allowing the gourami to assess the palatability or dangerousness of things from a safe distance.

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 87

SPECIES SHOWCASE Dwarf gourami

Home spawning Breeding Dwarf gouramis is easy to do, and if you’re turning out healthy fish from a virus-free wild pair, possibly profitable too. Get a tank of about 45cm long with a bare base and an air-powered sponge filter. Add a heater and get the water up to about 27-28°C. Add some Catappa or oak leaves to get a little bit of staining in the water, and

88

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

make sure there are plenty of floating plants. Pop in a big clump of Java moss for hiding purposes. Before moving the pair into this tank, fatten both fish up with plenty of Daphnia, Cyclops, bloodworm and high-protein dried foods. When they’re nice and plump, move the female to the spawning tank and leave her to her own devices for a few days – absence makes the heart grow fonder and all that. Add the male and he’ll do one of two things. If he’s aggressive, take him back out and give it a few more days. Otherwise, he should potter about and within a day or two he’ll start making a bubblenest from the floating plants and sticky saliva. She’ll keep out of his way as he does this. When it’s time to spawn, the two will form an interlocking embrace (like two horseshoes) underneath the nest, releasing eggs and milt. They’ll repeat this a few times, and once satisfied she has laid all her eggs, the male will turn hostile – put her back in the main tank at this

Air temperature matters Like other anabantids, Dwarf gourami are part-time air breathers, using a labyrinth organ above the gills to draw oxygen from atmospheric air. Some keepers have run into problems keeping their gouramis in

NEIL HEPWORTH

Finish off with a good handful of duckweed. This will produce shade and boost gourami confidence, but it’ll also act as a spawning substrate and stop the fish from jumping. Once your plants have grown in, add a liberal dash of leaf litter. Keep flow slow. A smallish internal canister filter will do the job. Lighting needn’t be too bright, just enough to sustain the plants you’re growing. And there you have it! A Dwarf gourami biotope. All you need now is to add some danios or rasboras, maybe a small, peaceful loach, and you have something true to nature.

NEIL HEPWORTH

FACTFILE DWARF GOURAMI

6 Scientific name: Trichogaster lalius 6 Pronunciation: Trick-oh-gas-terr lal-ee-uss 6 Size: Males to around 7cm fully grown, females slightly smaller 6 Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan 6 Habitat: Swamps, streams, canals, ditches, pools, ponds, streams, rice paddies 6 Tank size: 60x30cm for a pair 6 Water requirements: Ideally soft and slightly acidic – 6.0-7.6 pH, hardness 2-20°H 6 Temperature: 23-28°C 6 Temperament: Males can be hostile in spawning mode, or territorial with other males. Females peaceful and somewhat shy 6 Feeding: Flakes and floating pellets, live and frozen Daphnia, Cyclops and bloodworm. These are surface feeders so avoid sinking foods 6 Availability and cost: Readily available; starting at around £7.50 a pair

SHUTTERSTOCK

60 l+

Liquifry, as well as plenty of infusoria. After 8-10 days they should be big enough to take microworm, and soon after that they’ll take newly hatched brineshrimp. Note that broods can be large – 600 fish or more is not uncommon. Maybe make sure you’ve somewhere for them to go before embarking on a breeding project…

ABOVE: The natural fish has a more dainty look. BELOW: They look great against the greens of plants.

NEIL HEPWORTH

point, taking care not to upset the nest when you catch her. The eggs hatch out after around 36 hours, at which time the nest will also fall apart. If you want to leave the male in place, it’s safe to do so for three or four days, after which time he will start to eat the young. Once the fry are free-swimming, feed them on liquid foods like

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 89

BIOTOPE Red Sea

Treasures of the Red Sea

ALL PHOTOS: RICHARD ASPINALL

Take inspiration from the wild, the world of ‘nems and Nemos, and create your own ravishing Red Sea biotope.

RICHARD ASPINALL A freelance writer and photographer who writes for many magazines about travel and the underwater world.

90

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

A stunning congregation of Sailfin tangs in the Red Sea. WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 91

BIOTOPE Red Sea

T

HE RED Sea stretches from the Gulfs of Aqaba and Suez in the North, past Sinai, and down to its link with the Indian Ocean at Bab-el-Mandeb, a narrow, shallow neck between the coasts of Aden and Djibouti. Along its 1,900km length, the sea is surrounded by the deserts of Egypt, Sudan and Eritrea to the west, and Saudi Arabia and Yemen to the east. Jordan and Israel have a relatively small Red Sea coast at the head of the Gulf of Aqaba. Look at any globe and you’ll see the Red Sea as a long ‘gash’ that separates Africa from Arabia; a continuation of the great split in the Earth’s crust that forms the Rift Valley. The sea’s very limited link to the Indian Ocean, and periods when it has been entirely cut off, has allowed evolution to toy with the Red Sea’s fauna, allowing many species to diverge significantly from their Indian Ocean cousins. It’s interesting to note that the geological forces that have shaped the Red Sea’s species are the same ones that

created the Rift Valley, so are also responsible for the species swarms of cichlids that are of such interest to biologists and aquarists alike.

Dotties & flashers Today the Red Sea is a unique body of water, with a character to the reefs that’s unmistakable and due in no small part to the fish that are found here and nowhere else. Roughly 150 species are considered endemic, with the Orchid dottyback, Pseudochromis fridmani, and the

Eight-line flasher wrasse, Paracheilinus octotaenia, just two of the more notable. The Orchid dottyback is the poster fish for Red Sea biotope aquaria. In the wild, these super little fish can be very numerous, and on deeper reefs and cave systems they can be found in great numbers, each at the centre of a small territory that they defend with vigour. This will chime with the general advice for keeping them in captivity – strictly one per tank! Another endemic fish suitable for

Biotope bounty The rise of interest in biotope-style aquaria has been a welcome movement in the aquarium hobby. By understanding the species composition found on the reefs in a particular part of the world, hobbyists will understand their charges better, plan purchases more sensibly and will, perhaps, become more engaged with the wellbeing of reefs in the wild. Ultimately, I think, biotope aquaria are simply more interesting, and show a commitment from the aquarium keeper that goes above and beyond the ‘stick a load of fish in and see which survive’ school of fishkeeping.

Huge numbers of wild fish inhabit the reefs.

92

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Chaetodon semilarvatus, the Masked butterfly.

Today the Red Sea is a unique body of water, with a character to the reefs that’s unmistakable and due in no small part to the fish that are found here and nowhere else Orchid dottyback.

the smaller tank is Ecsenius graviera, the Red Sea mimic blenny. This little chap will spend his days resting up in coral branches. Clownfish for the Red Sea aquarium come in one distinct flavour only, Amphiprion bicinctus, aka the Bicinctus clown. They’re found across the Red Sea and, in my experience, are some of the most ebullient of their kind. A pair, once they’ve decided on a territory and an anemone, could become a nuisance in more modestly sized tanks. Like many Clowns, they are adorable when young, but become significantly less attractive with age. However, they will host in a range of anemones (I’ll talk about ‘nems later). If you can’t find A. bicinctus, Sebae clowns may be a suitable alternative, as they are found not too far away in the Gulf of Aden.

Stunning shoals Several Damselfish species are found in the Red Sea and most of them should be left there in my book. Dascyllus aruanus and D. trimaculatus are both troublesome as they mature, but are found here in great numbers. Chromis are numerous too, with juvenile C. viridis living in unimaginable numbers amidst coral heads. While it’s tempting to keep Chromis in shoals, in normal tank volumes they can quickly descend into bullying, and you end up with only one left. Better, perhaps, to get just one in the first place? While discussing shoaling fish, it’s worth looking at Pseudanthias squamipinnis. Of all the Anthias species in the Red Sea, these are by far the most ubiquitous. On some reefs they are impossible to count in anything other than thousands. Watching them in the wild is WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 93

BIOTOPE Red Sea

Black-line fang blenny, Melacanthus nigrolineatus.

fascinating. You can see the males hovering away from the reef, feeding and keeping their eyes on their harems, and at the same time you can see just how often they pick food from the water. They have a very active lifestyle, using a lot of energy and will need very frequent feeding to thrive in the aquarium. Much has been written on keeping a shoal of Anthias – very often, sadly, it fails, but you can keep a single fish with ease. Either a male or a female will be quite happy as a solitary specimen.

Stepping up in size One of the most recognisable fish from this region is the Lionfish,

Pterois miles. While this isn’t solely a Red Sea fish, as it’s also found along the east coast of Africa, it’s an iconic species. I imagine all aquarists will be aware this a fish that can cause severe stings and should be handled with extreme care. It should only be kept with large fish that it can’t eat. Smaller Lionfish species can be found too, such as Pterois radiata, which reaches just over 20cm. One of my favourite fish from this region is Pygoplites diacanthus. Again, it’s not endemic to the Red Sea, but the ones here have the yellow chest of the Indian Ocean population, as opposed to the

ABOVE: Christmas tree worm.

One of many habitat types in the Red Sea.

greyer chest of the Pacific fish. The above are all fish for the large tank and will require plenty of hiding places in which they can shelter and develop confidence. Younger specimens may be easier to acclimatise to captive life, but be aware that they are not entirely reef safe. Specialist food rich in algae and sponges may help the fish settle in. Another fish that’s not reef safe and demands only the very best of care is the striking and aptly named Exquisite butterflyfish, Chaetodon austriacus. Keeping Butterflyfish is beyond the ability of many aquarists, so perhaps it’s best

Nudibranchs are tricky to keep.

Red Sea clownfish, Amphiprion bicinctus.

Green chromis, Chromis viridis, among coral.

to leave these in the sea. If you must have a Red Sea butterfly, the Masked butterfly, C. semilarvatus, is one of the better possibilities, though it still requires expert care. A slightly more suitable option might be a Bannerfish, particularly Heniochus intermedius, another endemic. Alternatively, H. diphreutes is also found in the Red Sea and may be more easily sourced. Tangs are common in Red Sea waters too, with large examples such as the Sohal tang, Acanthurus sohal, having the reputation of being quite aggressive – often to divers who enter their territory.

ABOVE: Acropora sp.

Naso tangs, Naso elegans, can combine into large shoals that rove far and wide across the shallows. Perhaps the best two tangs for an aquarium are the Yellowtail, Zebrasoma xanthurum, and the Sailfin, Z. desjardinii. They are also found in some numbers outside the Red Sea in the northern Indian Ocean. Both tangs are always on the go, and forever grazing, showing their need for significant amounts of algal matter, though they will feed on animal protein too. I’ve watched and photographed Sailfins greedily devouring dying jellyfish on many occasions.

Regal angelfish, Pygoplites diacanthus.

Sohal tang, Acanthurus sohal.

Corals & inverts Red Sea coral growth is hugely impressive, especially at the offshore, high-current reefs, away from the pressures of pollution and tourism. Here the corals rival any from across the world, with large walls and pinnacles of coral, many thousands of years old, supporting some gobsmacking growths of soft corals of the nephtheid (and therefore pretty much impossible to keep) variety. Don’t despair, however. Reef crests in the Red Sea are extremely attractive and very easily replicated with corals that are available as frags and maricultured specimens. Photos of the Red Sea will often

BIOTOPE Red Sea

Devil firefish, Pterois miles.

96

show significant growths of Millepora. These Fire corals (their stings resemble burns) are tough to keep and not particularly desirable, but among the dull beige of the Milleporids are the pinks and violets of Pocilloporids (Pocillopora damicornis and Pocillopora verucosa) and the finger-like growths of Stylophorids. In slightly more sheltered, but still brightly lit locations, Seriatopora hystrix, often in whites with pink tips, will be sheltering numerous small fishes, and often coral crabs too. Acroporids are a feature of the Red Sea reefs too. Acropora humilis,

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

A. hemprichii, A. microclados and A. pharaonis are commonplace, but they’re not the only species by any means. Colouration is usually cream, beige or lilac, so to be accurate in your biotope you may have to accept a muted colour palette. Among the corals, tridacnids are also abundant, occupying spaces among living corals.

Nems & Nemos Five species of anemone are particularly notable in the Red Sea. Not all will be inhabited by Bicinctus clowns, though it is the

norm. Closer inspection of anemones often reveals young, post-larval fish, small shrimps such as Periclimenes species and the occasional Domino damsel. While most ‘nems seem to exist as isolated specimens, on some reefs, and with some species – particularly Heteractis magnifica – many square metres can be covered in what local dive guides invariably call ‘Nemo city’. The majority of the anemones in the Red Sea are quite dull in colour – basically, they’re variations on brown – but, on occasion, red specimens of Entacmaea

Tridacnid clam.

quadricolor, the good old Bubble tip anenome can be found. They are a great deal rarer in the wild than in captivity, however. They make excellent aquarium candidates and are often available from fellow hobbyists who have had an anemone bud into two. Possibly one of the most splendid species of anenome found in the Red Sea, but also one that becomes quite large, is Heteractis magnifica. It has lime green tentacles and a red stalk, making stands of them look very attractive, especially in strong currents. Given the number of predators in these parts, more motile invertebrates are often highly adapted to escape becoming meals. Nudibranchs and flatworms are commonplace (but poor choices for the aquarium), as are an assortment of crustaceans, though they all tend to be active at night. Having said that, cleaners such as Lysmata ambionensis are circumtropical, so are quite suitable for a Red Sea biotope, along with Boxer shrimps, Stenopus species.

Aquascaping There are two main types of aquascape I would consider trying to create, which would best resemble Red Sea reefs. The first would be a reef wall. I know these have fallen out of favour in recent years, but a complex creation of live rock elements, perhaps secured or supported using cable ties, plastic pipework, or any of the other ingenious solutions aquarists have employed over the years, will create habitats that can offer shy species crevices and holes to shelter in. It will also create a reef with a range of light levels, allowing deeper water and cave-dwelling species to be kept alongside reef crest species.

Isolated bommies are great inspiration.

With a range of habitats from deep caves and shipwrecks to sea mounts and mangroves, you can’t fail to be inspired when planning your biotope Structural reefs could be imitated.

Water movement should be vigorous and variable to flush out detritus and provide welloxygenated conditions. My other favoured ‘scape, and one I personally find very attractive, is the isolated bommie type. A small pile (or piles) of rock is placed within an expanse of coral sand to replicate where a piece of reef has come to rest on the sea floor and become colonised by corals. Over time, these bommies can become very large, but in their infancy they’re very attractive. The example I’m sharing here (see photo above) shows only a few fish species (please ignore the Dascyllus). Such creations can be extremely attractive to the eye and involve only a small, select – but very distinctive – cast list of fish. In fact, you might only have half a dozen different coral species and the same number of fish, but the overall impact can be stunning. The Red Sea is a treasure trove filled with thousands of invertebrate species and hundreds of attractive fish species, many of them unique. With a wide range of habitats from deep caves and shipwrecks to sea mounts and mangroves, you can’t fail to be inspired when planning your biotope. Let your imagination swim free. WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 97

GEAR & REVIEWS

Roadtrip to Norfolk

Roadtrip heads eastwards to visit both newly opened and long-established aquatics shops in Norfolk TOTAL JOURNEY TIME: 4 HRS 25 MINS. MILES: 190

Visit 1 Maidenhead Aquatics @ Norwich February 13th

STEVE SAYS: Maidenhead Norwich was the surprise of the day. Walking in to immediately see a nice 180cm oak cabinet display tank booming with Cryptocoryne and housing some lovely looking Angelfish and tetras was nicely inspiring. The first stock tank I looked in had some impressively sized, well-conditioned extra large Corydoras schwartzi at £29.50 each, followed by some nice Corydoras melanistus (£12.50), C. habrosus (£4.50) and C. punctatus (£5.25) – I guess you’re seeing a bit of a trend here… There are many other fish beyond the strong Corydoras selection, including good examples of a long-time personal favourite, the Steel blue killifish (£18.50 per pair), and a new favourite of mine – the Lime green line tetra (£2.75).

98

PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

AT A GLANCE MAIDENHEAD AQUATICS @ NORWICH

The store’s junior partner, Pete, owns up to having a thing for corys and the stock list goes on – large Corydoras narcissus (£27.50), C. adolfi (£21.50), C. diphyes (£9.50), C. gossei (£19.50), albino C. sterbai (£11.50), some incredible large Corydoras CW045 ‘Lessex’ (£37.50) and more besides. Suckermouth catfish fans are well catered for too, with Royal whiptails (£22.50), Angel Orinoco plecs (£39.50), Green phantom plecs (£78.50), King tiger plecs (£74.50) and Rusty plecs (£35.50),

plus the more everyday species. Smaller suckermouth fans should delight at Zebra otocinclus (£18.50) and Otocinclus arnoldi (£19.50), both of which I rarely see. In a separate section we also found Geophagus braziliensis (£7.50), G. surnamensis (£32.50), Red-spot gold severums (£22.50) Oscars of 8-10cm (£22.50), Albino hoplo catfish (£13.50) and Black bar myleus (£27.50). Together with a selection of quite commonly seen tetras, South American fish are well covered here.

Address Notcutts Garden Centre Daniels Road Norwich NR4 6QP Telephone 01603 250100 Website fishkeeper.co.uk Number of tanks 139 Tropical 31 Marine 15 Coldwater 9 Pond Parking Garden centre car park

ALL PHOTOS: NATHAN HILL

This nine-year-old store is well presented, has experienced staff and plenty to offer to most aspects of the hobby

A multicoloured Pyjama cardinal. WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 99

GEAR & REVIEWS

Roadtrip: Norfolk The rainbowfish and gourami selection offers small and mid-sized community species and the generous barb selection contains some oddities like Platinum tiger barbs (£8.50) and albino Cherry barbs (£4.50), as well as the commonly seen species. The livebearer section is strong, as is normal for Maidenhead stores, but there are also alternative strains like Panda, Black snakeskin and Split-fin guppies (all £2.95) and Snow whites (£3.95). I’m a bit of a sucker for Green sailfin mollies (£19.50 per pair) too. Nano fish are well represented with Spotted dwarf rasbora (£4.50), Cardinal minnows (£4.50) and Celestial pearl danios (£4.50), plus a good selection of shrimp. The shop had an overall clean look, despite the staff juggling several large Aqua Oak tanks around for customer orders and little spare space. While the shop itself was clean enough, the displays were especially clean, particularly the marines, which had real sparkle to them. Given that we’d only been able to give the store seven working hours’ notice of our visit, it’s a testament to how this shop is kept on a day-to-day basis. The glistening marine section is mostly down to Tom, a relatively new recruit with a history of working with marines, and while the fish selection is a fairly safe mix of commonly seen species, we’re told that interest and

FASCINATING FISH CORYDORAS CW045 ‘LESSEX’ Corydoras sp. CW045 is yet to be formally described, hence the CW categorisation. Variants are found in different areas and labelled as such, and what marks the ‘Lessex’ from a normal CW045 type is the presence of black in the soft-rayed areas of the pectoral and ventral fins, which you see when looking from above the fish. 6 Scientific name: Corydoras sp. CW045 6 Size: 7.5cm 6 Origin: South America: Colombia 6 Habitat: Amazon River and associated tributaries 6 Tank size: 90x30x30cm or more for a group of six (80 l) 6 Water requirements: 6.0-7.5 pH, 5-12°H 6 Temperature: 25.5-28°C 6 Temperament: Very peaceful 6 Feeding: Sinking pellets and wafers, live and frozen foods 6 Availability and cost: Rare; £37.50

Lime green line tetra Corydoras sp. CW045 ‘Lessex’

sales are on the up. Plans are in place to expand and introduce SPS corals to complement the existing selection of soft corals. The fish all look healthy, colourful and active and include species like Striped cardinals (£14.50), Sulphur gobies (£35.50) and a small Goldrush tang (£43.50), while a Melanurus wrasse (£95) and a Red foxface (£89) are slightly more adventurous.

A strong base of dry goods is supported by more specialist items, like a large spread of Microbe-Lift marine products. The selection of wood is vast. Much of it is suspended on display and backed up by a decent range of rock and other wood. This nine-year old store is well presented, has experienced staff and plenty to offer to most aspects of the hobby. If the marine selection doesn’t quite supply the goods for the hardcore enthusiast right now, I suspect it will soon. What’s here now will satisfy most hobbyists anyway.

FASCINATING FISH MARBLED HEADSTANDER

Marbled headstander

100 PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

6 Scientific name: Abramites hypselonotus 6 Pronunciation: Ab-ram-eye-teez hip-sell-oh-notuss 6 Size: 12-14cm 6 Origin: South America: Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Venezuela, Paraguay and Argentina 6 Habitat: A habitat generalist, as it’s found in large, central rivers with strong flow and in small, slow-moving tributaries and backwaters 6 Tank size: 120x38x38cm 6 Water requirements: 5.5-7.5 pH, 3-14°H 6 Temperature: 21-29°C 6 Temperament: Boisterous fin-nipper. Should be housed with robust cichlids or similar 6 Feeding: Omnivore – accepts most dried foods, live and frozen foods plus fresh veg 6 Cost: £17.50

Visit 2 Scaped Nature February 13th

Albino Hoplo catfish

Here’s a new shop that’s been making waves on social media. Scaped Nature had been open for business for a matter of weeks when we visited, and is rather different to the usual Roadtrip shop. Many full-on aquatics stores have a range of aquascape-focused equipment, and plenty of shops ‘specialise’ in aquascaping, but few are so focused towards aquascaping that they don’t sell fish. Husband and wife Ray and Gill have opened this shop to facilitate Ray’s love of aquascaping and Gill’s love of house and terrarium plants. Not only do the two complement each other well, but the crossover really works. What self-respecting aquatic plant fan woul beautifully displayed t Bucephalandra enhanc with moss and contain in a glass dome? I know I do. Ray was inspired by George Farmer to get into aquascaping a few years back, and when time as a stay-at-home dad came to an end, h was determined to ma a career of it. Stepping into Scaped Nature is to be transpo

WW

AT A GLANCE SCAPED NATURE

Address 60 St Giles Street Norwich NR2 1LW Telephone 01603 761900 Website scapednature.com Number of tanks 7 display tanks Parking Roadside pay and display or public car park

GEAR & REVIEWS

Roadtrip: Norfolk

There are seven delicious display aquariums on show, some old and mature and some with just six weeks behind them serenity – display tank lig creates atmosphere, and well-maintained, balance and vibrant plant displays inspire and demonstrate equipment. Chilled music adds a nice touch too. There are seven deliciou display aquariums on sho some old and mature and with just six weeks behind (impressive when looking iwagumi display particula can see firsthand the resu Ray’s knowledge – it’s just a hunch, but I get the feeling he’ll put as much effort into getting you results as he does for himself. There’s a wide selection of plants available in tissue culture, prepacked or submerged pot forms and, of course, you’d expect a great spread of hardscape from an aquascape shop. The choice here will not let you down, including frodo stone, fossilised wood, grey petrified wood, grey mountain rock, dragon stone, black island lava rock, red island lava rock and seiryu rock, plus boxes of small bits for detailing. Then the wood selection – hornwood, gnarled manzanita, mangle wood, redmoor, opuwa

102 PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

bog wood and talawa wood. oods are all aquascape-based, ng there’s a small area with a election. Evolution Aqua are available to order in, nano tanks by Dennerle are e to carry away, plus smaller p’ ‘scape tanks. High-end nits from Kessil and Twinstar ered, while clip-on lights by are sold for smaller aquaria.

Oase, Seachem, Tropica and CO2Art offer equipment and fertilisers and a few other selected brands complete the shelving. The website isn’t quite ready yet, but from April you should be able to buy products directly online. I expected to be impressed by this shop, not only because of what I’d seen on social media, but also because I love the aquatic/terrestrial

crossover, with aquatic plants in glass vases as home decorations. I feared for my wallet, as the feel of this shop screams ‘expensive boutique’ to me. I knew that I wouldn’t be able to walk out of here without buying something, so there was much relief when I turned over a 15cm-diameter bottle terrarium to find a price of £15 (when I was expecting £30-£40), and a miniature one of the same for just £2.50. I was well chuffed and my wallet wasn’t too upset at all.

Visit 3

Swallow Aquatics February 13th Our third and final Norfolk visit sees us heading southwest from Norwich towards Thetford to a very wellestablished business. Swallow Aquatics at East Harling is part of a four-store group and this one has been trading since 1993. The size of this shop allows it to offer lots of choice and it does that well. Not just with freshwater tropical fish, but with everything. On entry you’re greeted by a range of tanks and cabinets, including Oase Highline tanks up and running with good displays.

Continue walking and you’ll come across some alternative designs from Boyu and Cleair, plus more conventional tanks from Red Sea and Fluval. Keep wandering around and the choice of accessories, ornaments and equipment continues. The range of reef octopus products alone is impressive. Walking through the store, you pass by birds, lizards, snakes and tortoises before you reach any fish. First off, I come to the range of indoor goldfish. There’s good choice from small Black Moors (£3.95), Bubble eyes (£9.95) and Calico ranchu (£9.95), to large Pearlscales (£24.95) and Ryukin the size of your palm (£49.95). Continue through to the pond section and, given the time of year, it’s normal to see sparsely stocked

pond vats, but there’s a taste of what’s to come in the spring. Goldfish, Shubunkins, Orfe, Tench and Koi will be available in a number of sizes, but then there are other, less-seen pond fish such as Silver and Golden rudd, Gudgeon, Chub, Barbel, Common and Mirror carp – even Siamese carp are labelled up from the previous season. I’ve visited this shop during the pond season and I can testify they use all of their 33 plant trays and lily ponds. It’s easier to list which plants they don’t stock, rather than those they do. The pond audience is well catered for, with pre-formed ponds and liners, pre-formed waterfall sections and a good range of pumps, filters, remedies, foods, planting equipment and a nice choice of rockery stone.

AT A GLANCE SWALLOW AQUATICS

Address Harling Road East Harling Norfolk NR16 2QW Telephone 01953 718184 Website Swallowaquatics. co.uk Number of tanks 128 Tropical 77 Marine 40 Coldwater 25 Pond Parking Large car park

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 103

GEAR & REVIEWS

Roadtrip: Norfolk In the tropical fish room, I’m greeted by livestock manager Brandon and director Mick, who give me a quick tour behind the scenes. The quarantine facilities are on a large scale, with 100 or so aquariums and 10 pond vats that are used both to quarantine new stock and hold stock bought in bulk. The sales tanks use large reservoirs for stability of water conditions and to dilute waste. In the freshwater tanks there’s a strong showing of L number plecos, including mature, strong-looking L081 Golden nugget plecs (£43.95), L011 Red-fin thresher plecs (£43.95), L029 Galaxy plecs (£44.95), L073 Angelicus ‘portel’ (£29.95) and Tiger peckolita (£19.95). Rasbora paviana (£2.95) and Candy stripe loach (£6.95) are nice to see. The Tanganyikan and Malawi selections are shrinking with reduced demand, but there’s still a greater selection than in many shops and Neolamprologus caudopunctatus (£9.95) and N. brevis (£6.95) stand out. Wild Oscars (£29.95) are an unusual find, as are Banded leporinus (£19.95). Then there are tankbusters like Pangasius catfish (£9.95), but Brandon assures me there are quite a few tropical ponds in the area. The marine section has a large selection for FOWLR tanks. There are many larger fish on offer including Big eye squirrelfish (£29.95) and a Golden puffer (£350), as well as potentially very big fish like Panther groupers with a potential size of 70cm (£39.95), and the Harlequin rock cod (£44.95) that can grow to 80cm and 6kg. There are many mature species like a 20cm Naso tang (£229.95), and an Orange shoulder tang (£159.95) of at least 15cm. There are some good-sized moray eels too, including a Leopard (£49.95), Zebra (£120) and a White eye (£49.95) – all around 3-4 cm thick, although length was harder to gauge. Damselfish are also strong here, with

104 PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Golden puffer

Dominos, Yellow tail, Sergeant major, Humbug and Bicolours, all at £7.95. The invertebrate selection had a few alternatives like a wide selection of sea cucumbers including pinks, blacks and tiger tails (£21.95), Tiger cowrie (£14.95) and Long spine urchins (£21.95), along with more normal fare like Cleaner and Blood shrimps. The size and variety of livestock are this store’s strong points across the board, but the standout here for me are the pond supplies. It’s obvious that during pond season you will be utterly spoilt for choice.

FASCINATING FISH GOLDEN PUFFER Arothron meleagris can be found in different colour stages – the Guineafowl puffer is the same fish with small white spots over black skin. In nature, colours change at different life stages, but they rarely change in aquaria. As with most puffers, its flesh is poisonous and its fused teeth make short work of biting through corals and invertebrates. 6 Scientific name: Arothron meleagris 6 Pronunciation: Ah-roth-ron melay-gris 6 Size: 50cm 6 Origin: Indo and Eastern-Pacific 6 Tank size:200x100x50cm (1000 l) 6 Water requirements: 8.1-8.4 pH, 8-12°KH, 1.020-1.025 SG 6 Temperature: 23-25.5°C 6 Temperament: Mostly peaceful 6 Feeding: Carnivore – cockles, mussels, prawns, crabs etc 6 Cost: £350

Snowflake moray eel

Long-nosed hawkfish

FASCINATING FISH LEAF SCORPIONFISH

Leaf scorpionfish

The colour of the Leaf scorpionfish vary massively from reds, pinks and browns to oranges, yellows and white. This inactive fish requires a gentle flow, but is otherwise undemanding apart from feeding. Some refuse non-live food and need gut-loaded live shrimp. 6 Scientific name: Taenianotus triacanthus 6 Pronunciation: Tay-nee-ah-no-tus try-ah-can-thus 6 Size: 10cm 6 Origin: Widespread from the Red Sea to the Indo Pacific 6 Habitat: Coastal and outer reefs mostly found by sponges or over muddy substrate 6 Tank size: 75x30x30cm (65 l) 6 Water requirements: 8.1-8.4 pH, 8-12°KH, 1.020-1.025 SG 6 Temperature: 23-25.5°C 6 Temperament: Peaceful, but will eat smaller fish 6 Feeding: Ambush predator – live shrimp and frozen lance fish 6 Cost: £39.95

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 105

coral



cultivations

Specialists in Soft Coral & LPS Frags Rare and unusual species always in stock Over 40 species of Zoo frags in stock Retail opening hours

Saturday & Sunday 11am - 4pm Full mail order service available Unit 3, Colt Industrial Estate, Scarborough Street, Hull, HU3 4TU

Tel 07940 455075 [email protected]

coralcultivations.co.uk

FOR HAPPY AND HEALTHY AQUARIUM INHABITANTS 100 % BIOLOGICAL CARE PRODUCT 15 DIFFERENT USEFUL LIVING BACTERIAL STRAINS SEVERAL YEARS SHELF LIFE STRENGTHENS THE IMMUNE SYSTEM INCLUDES PROBIOTIC BACTERIA PROTECTS THE MUCOUS MEMBRANES SUPPORTS THE INTESTINAL FLORA SUPPORTS HEALTHY FISH BREEDING

B I O T E C H N O L O G I E

exclusive

exclusive

NEXT MONTH In the May iue

On Sale

CONTACT US Practical Fishkeeping, H Bauer Publishing, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough PE2 6EA Email: [email protected]

April 10th 2019

EDITORIAL Phone 01733 468000 Group Editor Ben Hawkins Associate Editor Nathan Hill Staff Writer Steve Baker Art Editor Katie Wilkinson Production Editor Gill Shaw Editorial Assistant Nicki Manning ADVERTISING Phone 01733 468000 Email [email protected] Group Commercial Director Iain Grundy Key Accounts Stephen Tanner Display Advertising Executive James Belding

All about Guppies!

MARKETING Phone 01733 468000 Marketing Manager Holly Burdall Marketing Executive Amy Kirton Direct Marketing Manager Julie Spires Direct Marketing Executive Amy Dedman Head of Newstrade Marketing Leon Benoiton Newstrade Marketing Manager Christina Dillon

The showiest fish in the hobby

PRODUCTION Phone 01733 468000 Print Production Manager Richard Woolley Advertising Production Mehnaz Murad Printing Wyndeham Heron Distribution Frontline SUBSCRIPTIONS AND BACK ISSUES To ensure that you don’t miss an issue and for the best subscription offers, visit greatmagazines.co.uk For subscription or back issue queries, please contact CDS Global: Email: [email protected] Phone from the UK: 01858 438884 Phone from overseas: +44 (0)1858 438884 H BAUER PUBLISHING Managing Director Nicola Bates Editorial Director June Smith-Sheppard Head of Digital Charlie Calton-Watson Group Direct Marketing Director Kim Slaney Finance Director Lisa Hayden Group Managing Director Rob Munro-Hall CEO Paul Keenan

Regulars 6Fishkeeping know-how 6All your questions answered 6Latest products tested 6Roadtrip

Practical Fishkeeping magazine is published 13 times a year by H Bauer Publishing, which is a company registered in England and Wales with company number LP003328, registered address Academic House, 24-28 Oval Road, London NW1 7DT. No part of the magazine may be reproduced in any form in whole or in part, without the prior permission of H Bauer Publishing. All material published remains the copyright of Bauer, and we reserve the right to copy or edit any material submitted to the magazine without further consent. The submission of material (manuscripts or images etc.) to H Bauer Publishing, whether unsolicited or requested, is taken as permission to publish that material in the magazine, on the associated website, any apps or social media pages affiliated to the magazine, and any editions of the magazine published by our licensees elsewhere in the world. By submitting any material to us you are confirming that the material is your own original work or that you have permission from the copyright owner to use the material and to authorise Bauer to use it as described in this paragraph. You also promise that you have permission from anyone featured or referred to in the submitted material to it being used by Bauer. If Bauer receives a claim from a copyright owner or a person featured in any material you have sent us, we will inform that person that you have granted us permission to use the relevant material and you will be responsible for paying any amounts due to the copyright owner or featured person and/or for reimbursing Bauer for any losses it has suffered as a result. We accept no responsibility for unsolicited material which is lost or damaged in the post and we do not promise that we will be able to return any material to you. Finally, while we try to ensure accuracy of your material when we publish it, we cannot promise to do so. We do not accept any responsibility for any loss or damage, however caused, resulting from use of the material as described in this paragraph.

Plus

COMPLAINTS: H Bauer Publishing is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (www.ipso.co.uk) and endeavours to respond to and resolve your concerns quickly. Our Editorial Complaints Policy (including full details of how to contact us about editorial complaints and IPSO’s contact details) can be found at www.bauermediacomplaints.co.uk. Our email address for editorial complaints covered by the Editorial Complaints Policy is [email protected]. NEIL HEPWORTH

Marines from the Mediterranean 38 major LEDs compared in our comprehensive product test African tetra showcase Get the most from the Convict cichlid

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 107

MANUFACTURERS POLL

The results are in. Which fishkeeping products did you vote the best of the best?

T

HE VOTES have been counted and we can now reveal the winners of the 2019 Practical Fishkeeping Manufacturers Poll, where we asked you, our readers, to choose your favourite products of 2018. As well as the results of the public vote, we’ve also included editor Nathan Hill’s thoughts on each category, with a

commentary on what it is that makes the winning products so good. We’d like to take the opportunity to thank every one of our readers who took the time to vote, as well as our poll sponsors at Maidenhead Aquatics, who have generously provided the outstanding prizes for three lucky winners whose names were drawn at random from all those who took part.

The winners! Category 1: Aquarium kits You voted for: Evolution Aqua for the eaFreshwater and eaReefPro range of tanks and cabinets. Nathan says: This is hardly a surprise – EA’s modern and sleek designs (plus their ready-made cabinets) make these a hard hitter. Add to that the neat black silicone sealant, excellent LED lighting and plastic hood as standard (in the eaFreshwater range), the additional height of the tanks, and you have something with huge presence at an affordable price. I’d have thought this would be a battle between EA and the Fluval Flex aquariums, and ultimately EA romped home with this win. Editor’s pick: Evolution Aqua for the eaFreshwater and eaReefPro range of tanks and cabinets.

Category 2: Heaters

Category 3: Lighting

Category: Filters

You voted for: Eheim for the Jager thermocontrol range of heaterstats. Nathan says: I had a strong hunch that Eheim would scoop this, and personally always keep an eye out for Eheim heaters for my tanks at home. Snapping close at Eheim’s heels was Fluval with its E-series range of heaters, and if presented with the two I’d have to flip a coin to choose between them. The E-series is the prettier heater when you can’t hide them, while I know the reliability of Eheim heaters has never let me down. Editor’s pick: Eheim for the Jager thermocontrol range of heaterstats.

You voted for: Kessil for the Ocean Sun and Ocean Tuna range of LED lights. Nathan says: Kessil is an outstanding choice, especially for the specialist keeper, and there’s good reason why so many retailers use these lights on their sales systems. I personally wondered if Fluval would take this category for the Aquasky, Marine and Plant 3.0 range of LED lights, and it was close (just nine votes between them). Editor’s pick: Kessil for the Ocean Sun and Ocean Tuna range of LED lights

You voted for: Fluval for the ’06, FX and U ranges of filter. Nathan says: No surprises on this one. Fluval’s reliability, price point and easy maintenance filters meant it stormed the contest, with almost twice as many votes as its nearest competitor. The fact that the filters are almost ubiquitous and parts can be picked up from so many stores likely has a part in this too. Editor’s pick: Fluval for the ’06, FX and U ranges of filter.

108 PRACTICAL FISHKEEPIN

PRIZE WINNERS

Category: Circulation pumps You voted for: Fluval for the Fluval Sea range of flow pumps. Nathan says: Fluval’s ‘no frills’ range of flow pump plays a safe hand, but it looks like safe is what aquarium keepers want. It may be no surprise that these were arguably the most cost effective of the flow pumps in the poll selection. I’m surprised that Ecotech Marine’s Vortech range didn’t win here, but t in that. tech range

AQUATROPIC 65 LED AQUARIUM RRP £109.99 Congratulations to Sandra Jolly for winning the 1st prize in our

1ST PRIZE

Category: Planting supplements You voted for: Evolution Aqua for the Aquascaper Complete Plant Food. Nathan says: Based on a formula used and endorsed by George Farmer (possibly the world’s leading aquascaper), plant enthusiasts love this product – and so do I. This stuff takes away the hassle of mixing EI powdered plant foods, giving a mixture of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, as well as essential trace elements, all in one bottle. Editor’s pick: Evolution Aqua for the Aquascaper Complete Plant Food.

MICROBE-LIFT WATER TREATMENTS BUNDLE RRP from £88 to £95 Angela Clements takes 2nd prize, winning her choice of a Tropical, Marine or Coldwater Assorted Microbe-Lift Water Treatments Bundle, worth up to £95.

2ND PRIZE

Category: Water treatments You voted for: NT Labs for the Aquarium Treatments and Medicines range. Nathan says: Comprehensive and easy to use, I often like to have a couple of bottles of Anti-Internal Bacteria treatment or Disease Solve to hand. Nice to know that I’m not the only one who rates these products! I’m surprised that Microbelift Nite-Out II didn’t rank higher here, but NT Labs is a worthy winner. Editor’s pick: Microbelift for Nite-Out II.

Category: Food You voted for: Fish Science for the Tropical Fish Food range. Nathan says: Fish Science romped home by an absolute landslide, getting over four times as many votes as its nearest rival. Owner David Pool has been cleverly courting the club and hobby scene with a great product made from sustainable, high-quality insect ingredients. As products go, this one really is revolutionary and has changed the face of fish foods since its creation. Editor’s pick: Fish Science for the Tropical Fish Food range.

OCEAN FREE HYDRA INTERNAL FILTER AND DEPURATOR 30 RRP £49.99 Iain Sutherlan takes our 3rd place prize, winning an Ocean Free Hydra Interna Filter and Depurator 30

3RD PRIZE

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 109

GEAR & REVIEWS

GEAR

FIRST LOOK

We have our first glimpse at three new tanks to hit the market. FILTER Cartridge-style 3w 12v filter. Can also house a heater if going tropical.

SUPERFISH QUBIQ 30 First look: Steve Baker RRP: £57.99 More info: aquadistri.com

This new 30 l cube from Superfish is a definite improvement over the older Qubie model in my opinion. The design is neater and much more intergrated – that’s not up for debate. Design is a matter of taste though, so where I like the plinth that raises the tank off a surface (about 35mm), others may not. And where I prefer the straight-cut corners, others may prefer the curved glass corners of the Qubie, but the silicone on this tank is plenty neat and tidy. The 5w LED light is suprisingly pleasing. It says blues and whites in the manual, but there’s a nice pink and yellow hue provided too, which should prove fruitful for plant

110 PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

growth. A nice feature here is threestage lighting – off, bright, dim, then off again, and the transition from one to another is nice and gentle too. The filter uses a replaceable cartridge (£4.99 for two) of floss, crystal clear media and sponge. The filter is a little fiddly to take apart, but the cartridge is accessible without removing the filter. Cables run neatly down the corner spine, a glass lid rests on the tank to limit evaporation and jumpers, and the light unit hinges for access. Good value. I like the look and the light unit. I’m not a big fan of cartridge-style filters, but this could be changed.

TETRA STARTER LINE 105 First look: Steve Baker RRP: Tank £125, Cabinet £89 More info: tetra.net/en/en The new 105 l Tetra Starterline aquarium is the fourth and largest model in the range. The entry level Starter Line comes with all the basic equipment needed to keep fish alive. The EasyCrystal Filterbox 600 filter is the same item found in the Starter Line 80 kit, offering a maximum flow of 600 lph for 7.5w. The EasyCrystal is primarily a cartridge-style filter, but with a more stable, high surface area ‘BioGrid’ to house beneficial bacteria. Two packs of the carbon and floss cartridges are included. These should be replaced every four weeks and you can do that without getting a finger wet, thanks to the easy filter clip. The filter housing also conceals the non-adjustable, 100w heater which is preset to 25°C, keeping things tidier and circulating heat around the tank to avoid cool spots. The light is a 16w LED providing a bright, white light with the facility to fit a second tube if you wish. The dimensions of the tank, including the lid, are 76x48x37cm,

LIGHTING 21w Aquasky LED unit with bluetooth controllability.

FILTER 14.8w 770 lph. It has a good volume and an access hatch.

CONVEX GLASS The signature feature of the Fluval Flex range.

which is very much a classic size and ratio for home aquaria. The 5mm float glass is held together by neatly machined black silicone, and the base floats on the plastic surround. A separate stand follows the basic styling of the tank, with no cupboard or shelving provided. I reckon you could have the 105 up and running ready for fish for around

£250 – but I imagine we’ll see some outlets selling them below the RRP. The practicality of the tank means that not only will new fishkeepers be attracted to it, but I look at it myself and think it would make an ideal breeding or growing-on tank. Practical and affordable. Cartridge filter and preset heater.

FLUVAL FLEX 123

First look: Steve Baker RRP: Tank £324.99, Cabinet £194.99 More info: fluvalaquatics.com Fluval Flex 34 l and 57 l models continue to be well received by both new and experienced aquarists alike, and now there’s a bigger version on the market. The 123 l model measures 82x40x39cm and obviously keeps the main Flex family feature – that convex front panel – and gets a large volume internal filter along the rear panel. I’ve heard of some people struggling to reposition the pipework on the smaller models after cleaning the pump, but you’re unlikely to have the same problem with this one. Access is easier and the pipework more secure, with a screwed in place, two-way flow

EXTRAS All the basic essentials are included – filter, light and heater – plus dechlorinator and food.

splitter entering the tank. Another improvement is the light unit. I’m not knocking the smaller ones, but Fluval has fitted an Aquasky LED unit to this tank. With spectrum (RGB) and timing control though bluetooth connectivity, I’m a fan, and I know lots of others who are too. The lid has the option of fitting a second light unit, but with just a 39cm tank depth, I doubt you’ll need to. The honeycomb-style texturing on the top of the front glass continues on the rear panel, where it’s visible. While this is a tad invasive if you prefer a blue background or some kind of image, it’s not as if you see

much of it anyway with the filter in the middle – plus, the filter will hide any cables. It does surprise me that Fluval hasn’t included a heater in this kit, but it does mean that coldwater fishkeepers aren’t paying for equipment they don’t need, plus there’s plenty of room in the filter chamber to neatly hide away a heater if you’re keeping trops. The lid has hatches for feeding and for access to the three-stage filter without you having to remove the whole lid. The price seems quite steep for the size of tank, but curved glass is dear to produce and the light unit has an RRP of £118.99 on its own. I’m not sure I can really justify the cost of the cabinet though. Nice style, large filter, great light. Pricing is a bit steep, especially the stand.

WWW.PRACTICALFISHKEEPING.CO.UK 111

BRISTOL

LONDON

LANCASHIRE

From plants to Cichlids, 14 Stingrays to Snakeheads The Aquatic Store

Over 250 tanks stocked with Top Quality Fish and a Huge dry goods section!

Really does have it all!

Tel: 01772 623497

AQUATICS CENTRE

www.aquahome.co.uk

www.theaquaticstore.co.uk 01179 639120 28 North Street Bedminster Bristol BS3 1HW

Within Avant Gardens, (Opposite Leyland Golf Club) Wigan Road, Leyland, PR25 5XW

RS ONLY

RETA IL SHOPPE

G TIMES

r all your Thank you fo 1967! support since 2 , London, E Green Road 77292444 al n h et B 0 0 22 5356 Fax: 02 Tel: 020 7739

AY: CLOSED ● TUES, WED & FRI 10.30-6.00 ● SAT 10.00-6.00 ● SUN 10.00-2.00

ww.wholesaletropicalsa quatics.co.uk

KENT

ABACUS AQUATICS Now open on Sundays For more details about the shop and our opening hours please visit our website

www.abacus-aquatics.co.uk 168 Halfway Street, Sidcup, Kent, DA15 8DJ 020 8302 8000 / [email protected]

LINC

LINCOLNSHIRE

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

QUAT SA I CS

CLASSIFIED To advertise here please call the sales team on 01733 366410

Voted one of the Best shops in the UK for the last 6 years

LINCOLNSHIRE Hangar1 • Strubby Airfield Woodthorpe • Nr Alford • LN13 0DD

01507 451000

EAST YORKSHIRE Hedon Road • Burstwick East Yorks • HU12 9HA

01482 898800

SOUTH YORKSHIRE Great North Rd Doncaster • DN10 6AB

01302 711639

To all our customers – thank you for your support with the PFK Awards LARGE SELECTION OF • Aquariums • Fibreglass ponds • Working Water Features • Waterfall Display • Pumps

HUGE SELECTION OF • Koi & Ornamental Pond Fish • Marine Fish & Invertebrates • Tropical & Fancy Cold Water Fish • Pond & Tropical Plants

lincsaquatics-lincolnshire

Come & feed our friendly fish • Discounted Pond Liners • Lighting • Food • Ro-Water • Tropical & MarineMix • Treatments All fish are packed to travel anywhere in the UK

lincsaquatics-eastyorkshire

Huge range of livestock in more than 600 tanks! TROPICAL - MARINE - POND & COLDWATER

Six-time winner of top UK aquatic retailer

www.wharfaquatics.co.uk Tel: 01773 861255 Open 7 Days - 65-67 Wharf Road, Pinxton, Notts. NG16 6LH (near M1 J28)

lincsaquatics-southyorkshire

www.lincsaquatics.co.uk

WALES

Please mention

LONDON

The Fish Bowl Ltd 133 Dawes Road, London. SW6 7EA

Tel: 020 7385 6005 www.thefishbowlltd.com email: thefi[email protected]

OFFICIAL JUWEL STOCKISTS PLUS SPARES Aquatic and Pet Shop. Open 5 days a week 10am to 6pm. Closed all day Thursday and Sunday SCOTLAND

House of Pisces ~ Scotland’s largest aquatic superstore by far With over 1000 aquariums full of tropical, marine and cold water fish Huge range of aquariums, aquarium furniture and equipment at discount prices

Unit B/G, 207 Strathmartine Road, Dundee, Scotland, DD3 8PH

01382 832000 www.tropicalfish-scotland.com

Established 1973 55 John Street, Porthcawl, CF36 3AY Tel: 01656 784646

when responding to adverts

Aquatic Supplies & Services Wales .LQJVZD\)IRUHVWIDFK6ZDQVHD6$'7 Design installation and on-going maintenance service available for your Aquarium or Pond Coldwater • Tropical • Marine •Reef • Invertebrates 'LVFXV3ODQWV.RL *ROG¿VK$TXDWLF7XUWOHV $PSKLELDQV $TXDULXPV 3RQG3XPSV)LOWHUV &OHDQLQJ(TXLSPHQW 2UQDPHQWV 'HFRUDWLRQV)RRG 7UHDWPHQWV([SHUW$GYLFH /DWHVWVWRFN VSHFLDORIIHUVOLVWHGRQRXU)DFHERRNSDJH DQG)DFHERRN*URXS • FRESH WATER & SALT WATER TESTING AVAILABLE • • & FREE FOOD SAMPLES •

[email protected]

www.aquaticsupplieswales.com

01792 44 82 25

MISCELLANOUS

ACCESSORIES & PARTS

WHOLESALERS

Fluke-Solve

AQUASCAPE FISH IMPORTS

TM

The simple solution for skin flukes, gill flukes & tapeworms Easy and effective

Tropical & Coldwater Live Fish Wholesalers Unusuals inc Rays, Turtles, Crabs, Shrimps, Lobsters

DAILY NATIONWIDE DELIVERIES CALL NOW FOR FREE monthly TRADE lists 8QLTXH ¿VK ODEHOOLQJ V\VWHP Tel: 0121 331 1212 Fax: 0121 331 1414 ZZZDTXDVFDSHFRXN ZZZ¿VKODEHOVFRXN [email protected]

Don’t miss the next issue of

SIMPLY RIP TIP AND STIR

Fish Treatment Ltd. www.fish-treatment.co.uk

On sale 10th April

Trade enquiries welcome

NATIONWIDE DISTRIBUTORS

INTERNET

25KG BLACK SAND NOW IN STOCK

AQUARIUM SAND

P L A N T E D AQ UA R I U M S P E C I A L I S TS

7KHEHVWTXDOLW\VDQGVSHFLÀFDOO\ made for aquariums

www.aquariumgardens.co.uk

DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR

01480 450572 [email protected]

25kg sack

UNIT 20C , UPLANDS INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, MERE WAY, WYTON, CAMBRIDGESHIRE PE28 2JZ

barlowsaquatics.co.uk

www.swimfix.co.uk – all at great prices!

UK MAINLAND ONLY

W E N

NEEDLE

Waterlife's new Needle Hydrometer is a fast, accurate and easy-to-use way of monitoring salinity (saltiness) in marine aquaria. Ideal for setting up new tanks and on-going maintenance.

www.

.co.uk

T:01254 208245

EVERYTHING FOR THE AQUARIUM, PONDS AND REPTILES, TOP BRANDS AT ROCK BOTTOM PRICES.

• • • •

Water flows in

Water flows in

Bubble reducing design Fast, accurate results Range 1.010 to 1.030 Calibrated for use at 25°C

HUGE SELECTION OF GOODS, FROM ALL MAJOR BRANDS LOYALTY POINTS SCHEME 5 STAR RATED SERVICE AND AFTER SALES

FINANCE AVAILABLE ON ALL ORDERS OVER £300.

FRIENDLY AND PROFESSIONAL ADVICE

• 50 years of aquatic experience

waterlife.co.uk

1000’S OF PRODUCTS IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE DESPATCH FREE NEXT DAY DELIVERY ON ORDERS OVER £50!

fb.com/completeaquaticsuk @completeaquatic pinterest.com/aquaticsuk

Please mention

Bath Rd, Longford London UB7 0ED

01753 685696

• Effective and reliable products

when responding to adverts

To advertise here please call the sales team on 01733 366410

Ring 01254 388815 to order

Pipe, Fittings and Valves – buy online at:

Argonaut and AG Pumps

£29.99

includes P&P

OPINION

MAX PEDLEY In this month’s guest Tailpiece, contributor Max Pedley reflects on his time in the aquatics industry and wonders if anything could bring him back from a leap into the unknown...

W

ELL, THIS is the end. Not just of this month’s issue, but of my time working in the industry it seems. For three years I have immersed myself in fishkeeping on a full-time basis, trying to make ends meet. I can honestly say I’ve enjoyed it. Met some great people. Learnt some awesome stuff. Had no regrets. Actually, just one. I regret that I couldn’t have stayed in the industry longer and made a proper career of it.

I’m no expert... I don’t like the word ‘expert’. I’ve been described as such (among many less savoury terms) during my time as a sales assistant. I don’t like that word because our hobby is simply so mind-blowingly vast. A good friend once said to me, “We have the best hobby Max! Just when we think we know everything, we learn about

Max in his fish room, with PFK’s Steve Baker.

114 PRACTICAL FISHKEEPING

Max Pedley is a PFK contributor and former aquatics retailer who specialises in small, softwater species and plays competitive polocrosse in his spare time.

something we didn’t even know existed. It’s fantastic!” That couldn’t be more true. I do, however, believe I have a healthy knowledge and enthusiastic outlook on fishkeeping, plus an insatiable desire to learn more. Does the industry want that? Honestly, I’m not sure...

affected by the standard of advice provided, perhaps we should be thanking the so-called digital age. But then, if we’re to flip that back on its head, does this devalue the importance of keen, bright, enthusiastic shopfloor staff who truly love their vocation?

The digital age

Money makes the world go round

We like to blame the digital age for all manner of social ills. When I visit a shop, I love a good chin wag about fish. I can (and often do!) talk for hours. But if we just Google for all our info, do we miss out on the valuable experience and opinions of other keepers? I think we do. Here is my counter argument anyway. Shops are all too happy to employ people with very limited knowledge of the hobby and I personally find this worrying. Under these circumstances, Google becomes a much more appealing alternative. Given that the industry relies heavily on customer satisfaction which, in turn, is

Alas, that phrase is too true. Considering all the bills I have to pay, not only to run a fish house but also to survive in this day and age, the wage of a sales assistant was never going to cut the mustard long term. But I’ve often pondered on how a specially created ‘livestock specialist’ role would go down instead? Someone paid a slightly higher salary to focus on the living side of things – livestock husbandry alone – rather than stacking shelves and sweeping floors. They could concentrate on livestock health, ordering and giving out advice. Now, you’d want to carry out stringent interviews on this person, of course. Maybe make them sit a test or two. You’d want to hire the best. I’m positive this would benefit not only individual shops, but the industry itself. Imagine a knowledgeable and superenthusiastic ‘fish-head’ in every shop. We’d most certainly see a instant decrease in the ordering and selling of tankbusters, not to mention goldfish in tiny, unfiltered bowls and all those other bad practices. Good advice would flow. Your average community tank keeper would spend more time and money in the hobby. As a matter of fact, I’m struggling to think of any way such a role could negatively impact the industry. Would a position like that have convinced me to stay? Possibly. Probably. Well actually, definitely…

m riu 9 ua 201 Aq d st oo Be sh F

Fi

Aquarium Fish Foods with Insect Meal Uses cultured insect meal to recreate the natural MRWIGXFEWIHHMIXXLEXQSWXƤWLIEXMRXLI[MPH )EWMP]HMKIWXIHERHTVSGIWWIHF]XLIƤWLVIWYPXMRKMRPIWW[EWXI Environmentally friendly and sustainable Voted “Best Aquarium Fish Food” by readers of Practical Fishkeeping magazine

[[[ƤWLWGMIRGIGSYO

1

2

3

SA £100 VE O AQUA N THE GARD E ESSE NTIA N LS POND VAC