Presented By: 5 Free Mixed-media Designs For Wearable Art And Steampunk Jewelry

making art to wear: 5 free mixed-media designs for wearable art and steampunk jewelry

presented by cloth paper scissors

®

1

3

4 3 5

1  2 

wearable art cuff teresa stanton

chronorevelator earrings steampunk style jean campbell

3

muslin pendant remix kristal wick

4

art pendants: mini collage under glass patty szafranski

5 

la flora fedora kathy cano-murillo

Mixed-media jewelry artist Kristal Wick shows how to make found object jewelry in “Muslin Pendant Remix.” These lovely pendants can be made from bits and bobs you probably already have in your stash.

w

hen you’re an artist you want to announce it to the world. So why not make art to wear? In this free eBook Making Art to Wear: 5 Free MixedMedia Designs for Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry, we’ll show you how to make mixed-media jewelry and art to wear on your head, wrist, neck, and ears. Two of the designs are in the style called Steampunk Jewelry. What is Steampunk? It’s a mixture of industrial and Victorian styles using upcycled jewelry, watch parts, and other found objects. Teresa Stanton’s Wearable Art Cuff focuses on the feminine Victorian aspect of Steampunk design, featuring fabric, lace, and found jewelry parts. This design is easy to put together with basic sewing skills.

Artists who want to turn their collages into art to wear can follow the directions in Patty Szafranski’s tutorial “Art Pendants: Mini Collage Under Glass.” These upcycled jewelry collages are easy to make and look like collaged jewels. Finally, Crafty Chica Kathy Cano-Murillo gives wearable art her glittery flair in “La Flora Fedora.” This jaunty hat, decorated the Crafty Chica way, will help announce to the world, I am an artist! Whether your style is Steampunk design, found object funky, mixedmedia jewelry posh, or glitter and be gorgeous, you’ll find a project for wearable art you like in Making Art to Wear: 5 Free Mixed-Media Designs for Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry.

Making Art to Wear: 5 Free Mixed-Media Designs for Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by

Cloth Paper Scissors®

online editor

Cate Prato

creative services Division Art Director



Photographer

Larissa Davis Larry Stein

Projects and information are for inspiration and ­personal use only. Interweave Press LLC is not ­responsible for any liability arising from errors, ­omissions, or mistakes contained in this eBook, and readers should proceed cautiously, especially with respect to technical information. Interweave Press LLC grants permission to photocopy any patterns published in this issue for personal use only.

Where mixed -media artists come to play

Warmly,

Cate Prato Online Editor, Cloth Paper Scissors Today

In Chronorevelator Earrings Steampunk Style, Jean Campbell shows how to make jewelry from recycled materials. This wearable art jewelry with a Steampunk twist will be sure to get the wearable art conversation started.

clothpaperscissors.com Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 2

wearable

Adapted from Cloth Paper Scissors® July/August 2011

art cuff

by

Teresa Stanton

fabric and found objects for your wrist

w

hat better way to express yourself than wearing your

own art? A wearable art cuff is a chic fashion accessory that can be easily made with upcycled remnants and repurposed found objects. How about feminine gossamer, antique lace, and rescued bling, or perhaps robust weaves, tooled leathers, and steamy metal gears? Let the nuances reflected in your combination of materials express your theme and define your inner artist. As a cuff-making artist your task is to integrate a harmonious theme through the manipulation of design elements. This is an organic process of pinning, measuring, and assembling that works for all skill levels. note: I use an organic approach in the preparation, design, and creation of my cuffs. The cuffs develop in a handson manner rather than from extensive planning and precision patterning. I spend a lot of time auditioning the fabric layers, the placement of the focal point, and the fit of the cuff. Feel free to try working in this improvisational manner throughout the project.

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 3

design 1.

Place the backing panel horizontally on your work surface, this serves as a general measurement guide for the

of the backing panel. Determine if you want to neatly trim the overlays for clean edges or go with unraveling edges. I prefer the shipwrecked look of wrapped, torn selvages.

overlays. You will be cutting the cuff to size later in the process. (Figure 1) 2.

Place the fabric layers in a graduated stacked or staggered manner on top 3.

After deciding on the order and placement of the fabric layers, remove the backing panel and set it aside.

4.

Pin the fabrics together down the center of the length of the layers. (Figure 2)

assembly 1.

m at e r i a l s

Machine stitch along the horizontal center of the cuff, removing the pins as you go. Wrap the cuff around your

• Fabrics: complementary colors with

contrasting textures and weights, 5 pieces, approximately 10" long and 2"–4" wide

• Backing panel, 10" × 4",

comfortable, medium-weight textile

• Straight pins • Sewing machine with a

Figure 1

ball-point needle for medium- to heavy-weight fabrics

• Thread (I used a coordinating polyester thread.)

• Corsage pins • Painter’s tape • Pencil • Needle, for hand stitching • Fabric scissors • Measuring tape or ruler • Focal piece, suitably sized for top of

wrist (I use filigree, old jewelry parts, and gears.)

• Leather scrap, 11/2" × 3" • Elastic, coordinated thick hair band • Button, 1" or larger optional

• E-6000® glue • Drill, variable speed, and small drill bit for metals

Figure 2

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 4

Figure 3

wrist to determine if more stitching is needed to secure the overlays. A successfully stitched spine should produce a cuff that comfortably conforms to the anatomy of your wrist while allowing flexibility for the edges of the layers to flare freely with movement. (Figure 3) 2.

3.

Size your cuff. Attach 2 pieces of painter’s tape on the right edge of the cuff layers. (Figure 4) Flip the cuff over and lay your wrist, palm-side up, on the center of the cuff. Wrap the right end of the cuff, with the painter’s tape on it, to the back side of your wrist, pressing the tape to your wrist to hold it in place. Bring the left side of the cuff over the back of your wrist, adjusting for a comfortable fit, and mark the location of the overlap with a corsage pin. Remove the cuff from your wrist. Lay the cuff right-side up on the work surface and measure the distance from the pin marking the overlap to the opposite end of the cuff. This is the cuff body

measurement. Add 2" to this measurement to get the full cuff length measurement. 4.

5.

Center the focal piece on top of the cuff and mark the placement with a corsage pin. Remove the pin marking the overlap and mark the cuff length on the cuff with a pencil, using the focal piece pin as the center point guide. Cut away and discard any excess fabric from the layers now, and cut the backing panel to size.

6.

Determine how the focal piece will be attached and, if necessary, bend or mold the focal piece to fit the contour of your wrist. Mark and drill stitch holes in the focal piece, if needed.

7.

Hand stitch the focal piece onto the cuff using the focal placement mark as your guide.

note: Another option is to glue the focal piece on top of a filigree base finding that has been stitched in place, but do not glue the focal piece onto the filigree base until the cuff is completed.

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

Figure 4

finishing 1.

On one end of the cuff, mark the vertical center for placement of the elastic band closure.

2.

Slip the leather piece through the elastic band and then fold the leather strip in half with the elastic band in the crease. Place the folded end of the leather strip down on the edge of the cuff at the location marked in the previous step. Securely stitch the open end of the folded leather strip to the cuff. (Figure 5)

3.

Place the cuff right-side up on the work surface and flip the elastic band away from the edge, toward the center of the cuff. Place the

clothpaperscissors.com 5

Figure 5

backing panel right-side down on top of the cuff. Align the edges, pin, and mark a 1" seam allowance along the 2 short ends. Machine stitch the ends, using the seam allowance marks as your guide, and then trim close to the stitching. Do not stitch the horizontal edges; unbound edges allow for better fit and functionality. (Figure 6) 4.

5.

Turn the cuff right-side out, align the edges, pin, and machine stitch across the horizontal center from each short edge up to the focal item. Discretely hand stitch around the focal piece. (Figure 7)

Figure 6

Figure 7

Wrap the cuff around your wrist to determine button placement, while modestly stretching the elastic band, and then stitch the button in place at this location.

Success—a wearable art cuff that is quintessentially you. You accomplished the task by manipulating your personal blend of treasures into a magnificent work of art. edmdesigns.etsy.com

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 6

chronorevelator  earrings

From the top: Admiral’s Secret Cuff, Portal Explorer’s Necklace, Chronorevelator Earrings, and Steamedheart Necklace.

steampunk style

m

by

Jean Campbell

ad Max meets Jane Austen. Sid Vicious shakes hands

with Charlotte Brontë. Vivienne Westwood dances with Charles Dickens. These images are how I describe Steampunk. It’s a fashion style influenced by science fiction based in Victorian England. It’s easy to jump into designing with this hot trend. Watch parts, found objects, brass, and filigree are all great materials to use, giving you an instantaneous Steampunk look and feel. Adapted from Cloth Paper Scissors® September/October 2010

m at e r i a l s • Fabrics: complementary colors with contrasting textures and weights, 5 pieces, approximately 10" long and 2"–4" wide

• Mask and safety glasses • 2 metal, round, two-loop open bezels (18mm)

• Cotton cloth • Clear packing tape • Tray

• Clear UV-curing resin • Toothpick • Sunshine or UV light • Tweezers • 4 metal watch gears (5mm–9mm) • 2 brass head pins (2") • 2 white crystal teardrop pearls, or beads of choice (12mm × 8mm)

• 2 natural brass bead caps (6mm flower, or other)

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

• 2 brass spacer disk beads (3.5mm) • Wire cutters • Round-nose pliers • 2 brass ear wires • Chain-nose pliers optional

• 300-grit sandpaper • Match • UV light

clothpaperscissors.com 7

You don’t need to be a jewelry expert to make this fun project—you just need a visit to your local bead and craft shop and a spirit of adventure. I've chosen to use a pearl drop and bead cap to embellish my earrings, but you can substitute other beads for the dangles.

what is steampunk? In an effort to help define the characteristics of Steampunk style, we’ve put together this list for you.

• Silk over polyester • Goggles in place of sunglasses

directions

• Brass and copper instead of aluminum

prepare the bezel

• Distressed as opposed to new

1.

Age the look of the bezels by sanding off any bright finish. The bezels I purchased for this project were covered with a bright silver finish. When I removed the finish, I was happy to find that the metal underneath was copper, a near-perfect material (next to brass) to capture the feel of the Victorian era.

caution: Be sure to work with plenty of ventilation and wear a mask and safety glasses.

• Rivets as a substitute for glue • Dark versus light • Glass instead of plastic —the editors

2.

note: It’s okay if the sanding marks show—they add to the look.

resin part 1 1.

aging metal I do all sorts of experiments on metal findings to age or alter their look, including heating them with a small butane torch (like the type you’d use in your kitchen for crème brûlée), dipping them in liver of sulfur (for various color shadings or a patina effect), sanding them, and pounding them with a rounded hammer. No matter what process I’m engaging in, I’m always careful to wear a mask and safety glasses, and I work with plenty of ventilation. I often don’t know what type of chemicals or other materials have been used to finish my commercially-purchased findings, so I err on the side of safety every time.

Use the cloth to thoroughly wipe the bezel clean, removing any dust.

2.

Place a piece of clear packing tape across the back of the bezels. Run your fingers over the tape several times to ensure a tight seal. Set the taped bezels on the tray with the taped side down.

Gently squeeze a small bit of resin into the centers of the bezels, but don’t fill the bezels. You want just enough to provide a thin layer from edge to edge, completely covering the tape.

3.

Use a toothpick to move the resin to the edges of each bezel so there are no gaps in coverage. Avoid creating any bubbles in the layer. If you do get a bubble, use a match to pop it (see box, next page).

All stepout photos by Jean Campbell.

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 8

cure the resin 1.

2.

Squeeze a small amount of resin into each bezel, completely covering the watch parts.

3.

Use the toothpick to arrange the watch parts and move the resin around as necessary.

4.

Allow to cure in UV light as before, indoors or out.

Find a protected spot outdoors in the sun, safe from wind and dirt, and let the bezels cure for 15–20 minutes. You can also cure the resin indoors, using a UV light.

note: It is important to keep the resin as clean as possible. 2.

Once the resin is cured, remove the tape. Inspect the backs of the bezels, checking for any resin that wasn’t exposed to the sun. If necessary, fill in any holes with resin and re-cure.

resin part 2 1.

Use tweezers to place 2 watch parts inside each bezel on top of the cured layer of resin.

removing bubbles Keeping your piece bubble free is key to making a clean resin piece. For the UV resin used in this project, you can remove bubbles in one of two ways: Use a toothpick to move the bubbles to the side of the piece and then give them a chance to pop. Or you can hold a match over the piece and this slight bit of heat will make the bubble rise and pop. The latter is the easier method.

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 9

1

2

the dangles

3

3.

While the resin is curing, you can prepare the dangles. 1.

Slide 1 pearl, 1 bead cap, and 1 spacer bead onto each head pin.

2.

Use the wire cutters to cut the wires, leaving 3⁄8" above the spacer.

4.

Use the round-nose pliers to grasp the end of the wire and turn a loop that sits tightly against the spacer; set aside.

Open the loop of one dangle, using the chain-nose pliers, and connect

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

finishing

the loop to the bottom loop of a bezel. Close the dangle’s wire. 2.

Using the chain-nose pliers again, open the loop of an ear wire and connect it to the top bezel loop.

3.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to finish the second earring.

Repeat to form a second dangle.

finishing 1.

4

jeancampbellink.com

clothpaperscissors.com 10

muslin pendant

Adapted from Cloth Paper Scissors® July/August 2010

remix

Above: The finished pendant on a beaded necklace and two pendant variations.

by

Kristal Wick

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 11

A steampunk version—paint-splattered muslin, a silver pendant finding, watch parts in resin.

This pendant was painted with four Smooch inks and a Swarovski Crystal Rocks round was added to the center.

This muslin pendant was painted with SmoochTM inks, and an embellished brass t-shirt and sun charm were added.

b

m at e r i a l s

eing a mixed-media artist, I tend to save everything. A few inches of beautiful fiber or WireLace, a bit of fabric, a little charm—I can’t part with

any of it. I had no real plans for these trinkets and treasures until I decided to create custom-shaped pendants.

These pieces cost pennies to make, and the best part is that they are quite easy. What could be better? While all of these pendants are shown as jewelry, they can easily be transformed into great focal pieces on other works of art without the straw hole.

directions the embellishments 1.

Mix the 2-part epoxy according to the manufacturer’s directions.

2.

Using a toothpick, apply small dabs of the epoxy to the metal focal point

where you want to place the crystal flatbacks and large rivoli. 3.

Place each of the flatback crystals on the epoxy dabs, using the tweezers, and place the rivoli in the center. Let the epoxy cure, according to the manufacturer’s directions.

the pendant 1.

Cut 6 pieces of muslin, 2" × 2".

2.

Squeeze out a quarter-size amount of the glue on top of the first muslin square and, using the credit card, squeegee the glue across the square.

• 2-part epoxy (My favorite is Devcon®.)

• Antique metal focal piece • Toothpick • Tweezers • 10 Swarovski flatback crystals

(I used 2028 SS07 XILION rose, copper.)

• Swarovski 16mm Rivoli (I used 1122 volcano.)

• Muslin • Rotary cutter/mat/ruler or scissors • WeldBond® Glue (This adhesive is easy to find and absolutely my favorite.)

• Old business or credit card for scraping glue

• Coffee stirring straw • Plastic wrap • Heavy, flat object • Acrylic paints (I use Plaid® FolkArt®

paints: purple, antique gold, amethyst, copper, silver, and plum.)

A lacy ribbon was layered onto a painted muslin pendant and embellished with flatback crystals. This piece can be used as jewelry, but I added it to the front of a journal.

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

• Disposable plate or palette • 2" foam brush • Small sea sponge • Water • Paper towels • WireLace®, 2 colors (I used 6mm chocolate, 20mm titanium silver.)

clothpaperscissors.com 12

Muslin squares, layered squares with the straw in place, and the finished muslin pendant ready to be embellished.

4.

Apply glue to the third muslin square, as in Step 2, and place it on top of the other muslin squares.

5.

Lay the straw horizontally across the third muslin square about 3⁄4" down from the top. Apply glue to the fourth muslin square and place it on top of the third square, covering the straw. Using your fingers, rub the top muslin square, smoothing out the edges.

tip: Avoid the urge to pull, cut, or rearrange any stray strands until everything is dry. Once your canvas is completely dry, cut the muslin into any shape pendant you like and trim any stray threads.

edges. Be sure to paint inside the hole openings, and let it dry. 8.

Wet and wring out the sea sponge. Squeeze a small amount of a second paint color onto a disposable plate, and delicately dip the sponge into the paint. Dab the sponge onto a paper towel to remove the excess paint, and lightly sponge the canvas in a random pattern. Repeat with the other colors and allow to dry. Be sure to cover the back and sides of the pendant.

9.

Cut 21⁄ 2" lengths of both WireLace colors.

10. Use 6.

Above: Muslin squares can also be decorated with Smooch inks.

3.

Place the second muslin square on top of the first and rub the edges so they are secure. Check for air pockets and remove them as necessary.

7.

Carefully pull the straw out from between the muslin pieces while the glue is still wet and allow the pendant to dry. Sandwich the bottom of the pendant (below the straw hole) between plastic wrap, and place a heavy flat object on top so the muslin pendant dries flat. (I use the weight of a cold iron.) Once the glue has dried, use the foam brush to add a coat of paint to the entire pendant: front, back, and

the glue to layer the WireLace pieces on top of each other in the center of the painted pendant, making sure to glue them down well.

11. Put

a dab of glue the size of a dime on top of the WireLace and place the focal piece on top of the glue. Allow to dry. Once dry, trim the WireLace edges.

12. Lace

fibers, leather cord, or chain through the hole and it’s ready to wear.

kristalwick.com

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 13

mini

collage under glass

Adapted from Cloth Paper Scissors Gifts Holiday 2011/2012

by

Patty Szafranski

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 14

i

put pieces of cardboard and paper under my artwork on my work table

to absorb any bleed-throughs, runovers, and other disasters that might occur while I paint. I am somewhat reckless with a paintbrush. The resulting papers were very interesting and I discovered the “art beneath the

A visit to a bead store introduced me to glass pendants that proved to be the perfect showcase for these small collages. For these pendants I am recreating those painted papers, but feel free to use your “art beneath the art” if you have it.

directions

art,” became even more interesting

creating the paper

when I cut it into small pieces and

1.

created small collages.

Spread acrylic paints randomly over the paper with your fingers or a paintbrush. Add some water and do some blending. Dry thoroughly.

2.

Using a sponge moistened with water, randomly add a neutral paint color to the painted paper. I used burnt sienna. Dry thoroughly.

3.

Using the eye dropper, draw lines haphazardly over the paper with the India ink. Dry thoroughly.

4.

Stamp some images onto the paper. (Figure 1)

assembly 1.

Cut a 3" × 3" square from the black cardstock. This will be the base of the collage.

m at e r i a l s • Paper (I use a 140-lb., cold-press watercolor paper, but any paper will do.)

• Acrylic paints, 5 colors including one neutral

• Paintbrush • Water • Sponge • Black India ink with an eye dropper • Rubber stamps and ink pads • Black cardstock • Scissors • All-purpose glue • Glass pendant • Black pen • Diamond Glaze™ • Bail (jewelry finding) • Duck cloth, black • Jewelry adhesive optional

• Embossing powders • Heat gun • Thread • Toothpicks • Gel pens • Spray varnish or waterproof sealer

Figure 1

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 15

there are no rules

• Be really sloppy with paint. • Scribble endlessly. • Play with abandon since the artwork will be cut into small pieces.

• Add thread waste for color and line. • Use flat embellishments for fun and texture.

• Add embossing or distressing powders to create depth and interest.

• Don’t stress over air bubbles; they can add interest to the pendant.

Figure 2

go. Be creative. Arrange the paper strips at different angles, and fill the entire square of cardstock. (Figure 2)

note: I don’t like to go much larger than 3" × 3", as your finished product will be small and this is easier to work with. 2.

Cut the painted paper into small strips: 1/4"–1/2" in width, and no longer than 2" in length.

3.

Arrange the cut strips on the black cardstock, gluing them down as you

with the black pen and cut the paper to size. (Figure 3) 5.

tip: Don’t worry if your pieces don’t line up perfectly. Having some of the black paper showing through can look very pretty, and the embellishments you add later can cover any areas you don’t like. 4.

Place the glass pendant over the square and Figure 3 move it around the surface of the artwork to determine which section of the paper you would like to use for your pendant. Trace around the pendant

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

Add some embellishments to the painted paper. Try some embossing powder or consider wrapping several strands of threads around one area. (Glue any loose threads to the back of the paper.) Add more paint with a toothpick, or doodle with gel pens.

tip: Draw a thin line of glue with a toothpick. Sprinkle some embossing powder onto the line and brush off any excess, and then heat with a heat gun. Sometimes when glaze is applied, some of the powder will spread out, which also can make an interesting finish. 6.

Apply a thin coat of Diamond Glaze to the back side of the pendant. Press the collage firmly against the glass, applying even pressure to eliminate any air bubbles. (Figure 4)

clothpaperscissors.com 16

tip: It is sometimes difficult to apply the exact amount of glaze. If you use too much, it will seep out on the edges of your pendant. If this happens, wipe it away quickly, as glaze dries fast and will leave undesirable ridges that cannot be removed. 7.

Cut the duck cloth slightly larger than the pendant and glue it to the back of the collage with all-purpose glue. Allow the glue to dry.

8.

Cut the excess duck cloth off around the glass pendant. If desired, coat the back of the pendant with a waterproof sealer. Let dry.

9.

Glue the bail to the top of the pendant on the back side. (Figure 5)

etsy.com/shop/ciennamoss

Figure 4

Figure 5

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 17

flora fedora la by

Kathy Cano-Murillo

w

hat others perceive as a black hat, I see as a thirsty wearable canvas:

   two empty sides, primed for painting.       An accessory armed for amplification.

Adapted from Cloth Paper Scissors® September/October 2010

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 18

m at e r i a l s • Pencil and paper • Canvas fedora (Stick with canvas;

other hat materials are more difficult to paint.)

• Chalk • Acrylic paints • Paintbrushes, a variety of sizes • Glue (I used Crafty Chica® Extreme Embellishment Glue™.)

• Glitter (I used Crafty Chica Chunky

2.

Once you feel confident with your design, use the chalk to draw it onto the side of the fedora.

3.

Choose your paint colors and/or mix some colors.

4.

Start painting your shapes. Because black is so opaque, you may want to use white as a base coat before applying the other paint colors. Let dry.

5.

Glitter™.)

• Flat-backed crystals or rhinestones (Tulip® Glam-it Up!™ Iron-on Crystals™ work wonderfully.)

• Ribbon, 24" long • Charm(s) (I used Crafty Chica Charm™–Day of the Dead.)

I recently came across a wall display of fedora hats in a rainbow of shades. As always, my first thought was to buy one of each color. But then I took a deep breath, calmed down, and lovingly selected one for an artistic makeover. I love bright colors, and knew a black background would be a perfect start. And so the creative process began. While I love painting in books and creating fabric collages, there is something more personal about dressing up something to wear. It allows you to share it with the world and send the message that you live by your own rules.

Using a thin paintbrush, apply glue to the first area you want to cover with glitter. While the glue is still wet, pour on the glitter. Tap away the excess, and then add more glue to the next area you want to cover with glitter. Continue with all the glitter areas.

6.

Use paint and the end of the paintbrush handle to create dots on the background. Outline the whole design with black paint.

7.

Use glue to add crystals around the design.

8.

Add more motifs as desired. I added polka dots to the top of the hat and painted designs onto the strand of ribbon.

9.

1.

Make a sketch of your design on the paper. I drew a mix of half circles, heart shapes, and scalloped edges.

Paint one section at a time, letting neighboring sections dry completely before proceeding.

Use a small paintbrush to add the embellishment glue for the glitter.

Let the paint dry and then glue the ribbon around the base of the hat to create a hat band. Add painted designs to the hat brim and glue a charm to the half circle. While the glue is still wet, cover it with glitter and then shake off the excess. A soft brush will help facilitate removal of excess glitter.

The beauty of this project is that it will work for any skill level. You can choose to paint an elaborate scene, or just add random dots of happy; do whatever fits your style.

directions

Use chalk to sketch your design onto the fedora as a guide for painting.

note: These stepouts were created on black canvas material for photography. All of these steps should be completed on the actual fedora. craftychica.com

Use the back of a paintbrush or a pencil eraser to paint (stamp) uniform dots. Step-out photos by Scott Wilkinson

Making Art to Wear: Wearable Art and Steampunk Jewelry presented by ©Interweave Press LLC

clothpaperscissors.com 19