Congo Foundings Stanley Part I

Frontispiece to Vol.

HIS MAJESTY LEOPOLD

II..

KIXG OF THE EELGI.iXS.

I.

THE CONGO FOUNDING OF

ITS

FREE STATE

A STORY OF WORK AND EXPLORATIOX.

BV

HENRY

IN

M.

STANLEY.

TWO VOLUMES. VOL.

I.

WITH OVER ONE HUNDRED FULLPAGE AND SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS. TWO LARGE MAPS AND SEVERAL SMALLER ONES.

CHEAPER EDITION.

LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, AIAESTON, SEARLE, k RIVINGTON ^

188,

FLEET STUKET. 1886. t^All

rights reserved.)

THIS NAEEATITE OF

LABOUE, EXPLOEATIOX AND DISCOVEEY, AIiD

HISTORY OF A GREAT AST) SUCCESSFUL

POLITICAL AXD DIPLOMATIC ACHIEVEMENT, IS,

BY SPEQAL PERMISSION,

^lost rcs^iedftiUg

^ciiiaitci) to

HIS :\IAJESTY LEOPOLD

IL,

THE KING OF THE BELGIANS, THE GENEROUS 3I0XARCH WHO SO XOBLY COXCEIVED, ABLY COSDUCTED, AXD MUSIFICENTLT SUSTAINED THE ENTERPRISE WHICH HAS OBTAINED THE RECOGNITION OF ALL THE GREAT POWERS OF THE WORLD, AND HAS ENDED IN THE ESTABLISHMENT OF

THE CONGO STATE: AND ALSO TO ALL THOSE GENTLEMEN WHO ASSISTED HIM BY THEIR ZEALOUS SERVICE, TALENTS, MEAXS, AND SYMPATHY, TO REALISE THE UNIQUE PJBOJECT OF FORMING A FREE COMMERCIAL STATE IN EQUATORIAL AFRICA,

BY THEIR HUMBLE AND OBEDIENT SERVANT,

THE AUTHOE. London, April 1835.

PKEFACE. A WISE

Englisliman has said that pure impulses and

noble purposes have been oftener thwarted by the devil

under the name of Quixotism than by any other sinuating phrase of obstruction.

my

was flung in

in-

In 1878 that word

teeth several times, especially

by Man-

chester men.

If I delivered a speech or a lecture, or

wrote a

about the probabilities of success attend-

letter,

ing a judiciously conducted enterprise in Africa, a

Manchester

editor, or a

Manchester merchant, almost

me

with being a " dreamer," a

invariably taunted

"Quixotic journalist," or a mere "penny-a-liner." do

not

quarrel with

the

phrases,

but

I

certainl}^

deprecate the uses to which they were applied.

charge

of

Quixotism,

mission, deterred

many

being

directed

I

against

The

my

men in Manchester from new markets, and deepened

noble

studying the question of

unjustly their prejudices against Africa and African projects.

In the Daily Telegrciph of November

12_,

1877,

tlie

PREFACE.

vi

following words of mine were published.

my own

prove

at least,

" I feel

convinced that the question of this mighty political

discovered

its

mouth

—refuse

I fear to

have in Africa, or in

my

length of reasons

why

it

it

because she

—England,

to recognise her right.

damp any

interest

you may

this magnilicent stream,

could

letters, I

would be a

yet,

have put forth

but the great Powers

;

Am.erica, and France

were not that

to

Portugal claims

the right of control.

As

one in time.

however, no European Power seems

it

will,

consistency of belief.

water-way will become a

If

Thej

by

the

show you very strong deed to

politic

momentous question immediately.

I

settle this

could prove to

you that the Power possessing the Congo, despite the cataracts,

would absorb

to itself the trade of the

of the enormous basin behind.

This river

is

whole

and

will

be the grand highway of commerce to "West Central Africa."

Gambetta, the great French 18*78, also uttered

statesman,

in

July,

a prediction which has been since

verified.

"

You have thrown

the light of knowledge on what

you have well described only,

sir,

as the

Dark Continent.

have you ojDened up a new Continent

Not to our

view, but you have given an impulse to scientific and philanthrojDic effect

enterprise

which

M-ill

on the progress of the world.

the action

of private

What you have done

have a material It is not only in

individuals that that

is

seen.

has influenced Grovernments

proverbially so difficult to be

moved

— and

the impulse

PREFACE.

you have imparted on growing year Besides the

to

them

vii

am

will, I

convinced, go

after year."

work

of the International Association, of

which these volumes are the record, the English Baptists have carried the banner of peace up the Congo beyond the Equator the

;

and the American Baptists, taking up

work begun by

urging on the

the Livingstone side

by

Mission, are

side with their

London and Church Missionary

English brethren. Societies

work

civilising

Congo

have planted their Christian

on Lakes

flags

The African Lakes Company

Victoria and Tanganika.

and the Free Kirk of Scotland are earnestly at work on Lake Nyassa, and are advancing Serpa

Pinto

and Weissman

to

Lake Tanganika.

have

crossed

Africa

Ivens and Cape^lo have performed remarkable journeys to the east of

Monsieur de Brazza has given

Angola.

France a West African Empire

Germany has entered

\

the field of colonial enterprise, and has annexed the territory in south-west Africa, between

and British colonies territory,

and a

in

fertile

Cape Frio

South Africa, the Cameroons province in east Africa

has annexed territory on the

Red Sea

has annexed the Niger Delta possesses 700,000

all

;

and

;

;

Italy

Great Britain

now

Portugal

square miles of African territor3^

Thus the expressed conviction

of the statesman

Gam-

betta has been realised.

Nor shortly

has the end yet been reached.

come when other grand

published.

The impulse

is

meating throughout Europe.

The time

will

faits accomplis will

still

be

throbbing and per-

These volumes

will tend

PREFACE.

viii

They

to quicken rather than to allay the fever.

will

be printed in eight different languages, and the words

and of

of enterprise

many ujD

man

a

action,

it

move

hoped, will

is

out of the 325,000,000 of Europe to be

and doing.

The world has heard enough of the of " horrible climate," of fancies of timorous

"

old wives' tales

Quixotism," and

all

such

Hundreds of

and feeble minds.

raw European youths have been launched

the

into

heart of the "murderous continent," and the further

we

inland

sent

physique.

It

them the more they improved

now what may

matters not

-interested traders,

publicists,

selfish

in

be said by

narrow

-

minded

grasping merchants, or discharged agents about the

dangers

of this

We

climate.

There

thoroughly for six years. half in the

Congo

have tested is

even in

basin,

pared condition, than there

is

less

its

At

not serve

it

all

by

present unpre-

its

my

population

desire to serve Africa,

at the expense of truth.

companies being launched

to exploit "West

In regard to West Africa,

Africa.

sickness

last twenty-five years.

the same time, with

I will

most

" in the " bottom lands

of Arkansas, a state which has doubled

during the

it

I

I hear of

and East

am bound

to

say

that almost every available point which promised to

remunerate enterprise has already been occupied. coast

is,

after all, but a thin line.

of the Kwanza_,

Muni,

The lower

The

courses

Congo, Chiloango, Kwilu, Ogowai,

Cameroons,

the

Oil

rivers,

Niger,

Roquelle,

Gambia, and Senegal rivers have been dotted with

FEEFACE. factories,

while along

ix

intervening coast-lines com-

tlie

Not

mercial establishments are pretty thickly sown.

know

a single firm that I

of requires assistance in the

On

purchase of the native productions.

we have son,

and Daumas, Beraud

their

way up

New

Congo

Company, Hatton and Cook-

the great Dutch

&

who have pushed

Co.,

to the foot of the cataracts

Company

the National African

the

;

on the Niger

firmly

is

established.

companies seeking to outbid these establishments

in the purchase of the native produce are preparing

themselves periods of

for

pecuniary

On

and most probably

trial,

loss.

the East

Coast there

is

but

little

room

for

European, as he can scarcely compete with the

the

frugal Arab, Hindi

and Banyan,

let

him be ever

so

economical and enterprising.

There only remain exploited commercially

the great river basins

to

be

the principal of which are the

;

Congo, Nile, Niger, and Shari.

But these require

railways to connect their upper basins with the sea. Until railways are constructed that

it is

useless to suppose

any remunerative trade can be made.

of the

traffic

The value

upon the river banks which would be

thrown open by these railways may be best seen in the following table

:

Rivor bauks.

Railway,

Congo, between Vivi and Stanley Pool 147 miles long 10,800 miles. 5,600 Nile, Suakim to Berber 280 „ „ 4,400 Niger, above Rabba to Komba 250 „ „ 1,800 Shari and Lake CI uad,Kibago to Mogolo 150 „ „

....

Totals

.

.

.

.

.

.827

22,000

PREFACE.

X

The would,

capital

of

required at

£4000

include

labour,

course,

*

per mile, which

and rolling

rails

material for each railway, would amount to

Congo railway and

flotilla

Nile

„

„

Niger

„

„

Shari

„

„

.... .... .... ....

:

£ 000,000 1,160,000 1,010,000

620,000 £3,420,000

The area

of country and the masses of population

which these railways would make immediately sible,

according to the most careful calculations, are

as follows

:

Area

Congo Nile

Niger

in square statute miles.

Population.

1,090,000

43,000,000

.... ....

Shari

The

The

would be equal

The aggregate mercial

660,000

23,760,000

440,000

8,800,000

180,000

5,400,000

2,370,000

80,960,000

entire continent of Africa

miles in length. line

acces-

15,500 English

four river banks if stretched in

in length to 22,600 statute miles.

areas immediately accessible to

enterprise

miles deep

is

may

com-

be said to equal a belt 155

drawn around the

entire continent.

Such

a belt would require thirty-four souls to the square

mile to produce a population equal to the 80,960,000 inhabitants of the four river basins.

Again, almost the *

least

exploited portion

of the

These figures are but assumed for the purpose of the argument, of The cost of railway mileage may be more or less.

course.

PREFACE. African

coast-line, 2,900 miles

Gambia

to St.

long,

that from the

is

Paul de Loan da, which gives an annual

The banks of

trade of £32,000,000. if

xi

these four rivers,

equally developed, ought to furnish a trade seven

The gross

and a half times greater, or £240,000,000.

sum required

to create

this

enormous trade

is

only

£3,420,000

Let us suppose that a continent abounding with tropic produce, populated

people,

and showing a

by 81,000,000 of workable

coast-line of 22,600 miles in

length, suddenly rose from the

Imagine the scramble

Powers

bosom of the Atlantic,

for the possession of

Yet here are four river basins

!

civilization at the rate of l|c?. per acre,

it

b}^

the

offered to

with an annual

trade of over 35. per acre almost guaranteed, which certainly very

much cheaper than what

is

offered

is

by a

land company at the present time in East Africa.

Of

course, I little expect that

any of these grand and

advanced ideas will ever be put to the

test.

But when

I hear of perpetual lamentations about depression of trade,

am

of the silent spindle, and the cold foundry, I

tempted to ask what has become of

tional energy

which made Britain

so

all

that tradi-

famous in the

commercial world.

upon the wisdom of the proceedings in The total exports and connection with Egypt to-day. Let us

reflect

imports of

amounted

Lower Egypt and the Soudan

to £16,805,001,

Government can

in

1882

and yet before the British

issue out of the present contest satis-

factorily they will

have expended quite £16,000,000,

PEEFACE.

xii

over four-and-a-half times more money than the sum

which

required to give in a few years an augmented

is

trade to the world of £240,000,000, of which no doubt three-fourths

would

body of Great

may

basin

be absorbed by the mercantile

Let us hope that the Nile

Britain.

be rescued, however, from the fate which

hovers over

If lost to Britain,

it.

hope that some other nation will

us

let

do

its

preserve this basin open to civilisation.

at

least

utmost to If France

only prosecutes her present great enterprise intended to connect the

Upper Xiger with the Senegal, one of

the three other gTeat river basins will be saved from

waste

;

and

will find

if

she

is

wise and liberal in her

tariffs,

ample recompense in the commercial

she

inter-

course she will have estabhshed with the 8,800,000 inhabitants of the Xiger banks.

These volumes now issued contain minute

what

is

produced in the greatest and most populous

river basin in

and

details of

Africa.

The information

so painfully

so patiently acquired is for the benefit of those

natives of Europe

who can

read and are interested not

only in Africa, but in the commercial prosperity of the world.

Any two

rich

men

in

Great Britain, Belgium,

France, Germany, Italy, Holland, Spain, Portugal, or

Sweden and Norway, may combine together and the Congo

railway.

build

I shall be surprised if before the

end of the year some such railway has not been started.

to

me

At

the same time,

personally

it

is

perfectly immaterial

whether an attempt be made

realise the project or not.

to

PREFACE.

At

same time,

tlie

chester,

which

I

xiu

have a strong hope that Man-

1878 was so apathetic, and in 1884 so

in

bravely strenuous in defending the commercial liberty of the Congo basin, will unite with Berlin, Paris, and Brussels in the subscription of £600,000 to build this

At any

railway.

Commerce, and

its

rate, the

Manchester Chamber of

excellent President, J. F. Hutton,

Esq., and the Manchester editors deserve the thanks

of every reader of these books for the persistent defence of the principles which

the

author advocates,

and which he maintains can alone rescue Africa from the slough of despond and inutility in which

it

has

remained so long.

The Author craves the permission introduce to his or her notice

of the reader to

the President of the

International Association, Colonel

Strauch, to whose

genius for administration, thoughtful care, and wise provision, the success of the Expedition

due

and

;

MajoVy

was

also

qfficier

was

to Captain Thys, of the

d'ordonnance du Hoi,

sorely tried, especially

when

the

so largely

corps Etat-

whose patience

Commander

of

the Expedition was sending his peremptory orders for supplies.

Finally, the British reader

Author

must be persuaded by the

to believe that the expedition has

been largely

indebted to the munificence of William Mackinnon, Esq., of Balinakill, Clachan,

various

times

we

Argylleshire,

from

whom

at

obtained substantial help, and in-

variably the most generous sympathy with the kindliest advice.

PREFACE.

xiv

There a

a law of Nature which has decreed that

is

man must

by the sweat is

The Divine law

work.

brow

of his

man

shall a

declares that only

There

eat bread.

a law pretty generally recognised

among

vanced nations, that every honest labourer

is

the ad-

worthy

of his hire, but only the conspicuously meritorious

The

deserve special commendation. the world

is

that

man

shall not obtain his food for

Unless he labours in his vocation, neither

nothiug. shall

that a

stern practice of

he receive wages.

It is also

generally conceded

any man who distinguishes himself by goodwill and

may

endeavour, however incompetent he consideration, but

any man who

intelligence, effective labour

be, deserves

exhibits capacity with

with honest goodwill^ shall

For

receive reward commensurate with his services. thriftlessness the

world has naught but contempt

;

for

condemnation

;

for

natural debility only pity failures,

for vice,

Obeying these general laws and

oblivion.

practices, those

;

whom

I think

have proved themselves

most deserving of recognition for their gallantry, moral courage, and fortitude under privations, for the greatest intelligence duties,

and capacity

in the

performance of their

have received honourable mention at

my

hands

in the chapter on Europeans. It

has been customary with

me

to

compliment

my

publishers upon the energy and care with which they

produce their books. to their usual

author.

I

happy

am also

These volumes are no exception art of pleasing both public

indebted to Mr.

J.

and

D. Cooper for the

pains he has taken to faithfully reproduce the

many

PBEFACE.

X7

photographs of landscape and persons in the engravings

now

for the

The

published;

manner

large

map

and

also

to

Mr. John Bolton

is

our successive voyages up and principal stations between Yivi

I

that

a

down

made during

the Congo.

now commit it

my six years' mission. my work to the public,

will efi'ect a

greater impetus

happy change to

the

The

and Stanley Falls have

finally fixed after several observations

each place during

maps.

the result of nearly four hundred

observations for latitude and longitude

been

my

in which he has produced

true

taken at

in the

for Africa, civilising

hope

and give

influences

which are seen in the advancement of commerce and in the vitality of Christian missions.

The Author. London, Ap-il 1885.

CONTENTS. {l-olJ.)

CHAPTER L PREVIOUS HISTORY OF THE CONGO. Early discoveries

—

—Erroneous nomenclature—Inaccurate descriptions in following the

Difficiilties

1816

Expedition of scientific

result

—Its

—Livingstone's

New York

Telecjmph and

old chroniclers^Tlie

misfortunes, but finally

last Expedition Herald Expedition, 1876

PAGE

British

successful

— The Baili/ — Discovery of

the continuity of the Congo

I

CHAPTER

II.

THE POLITICAL HISTORY OF CONGO-LAND.

— —

'Kingdom of the Congo' Chronicle of the Capuchin Expedition— The stone jjillars of the Portuguese their purpose Conversion of the King to The capital of Congo-land Christianity Missions and ancient religious edifices— Hostile incursion of the Jaggas Territorial claims of the PortugueseExpulsion of the Portuguese from Congo-land The slave trade The missions of Rome and France Boundaries and general description of Congo-land The position and power of its chiefs

Piqafetta's

—

—

— — Treaties of

—

—

—

—

tlie

:

International Association

CHAPTER

9

III.

THK SEQUEL TO THE BOOK, 'THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.'

My

return from the

"Dark Continent"

Leopold's Commissioners at Marseilles

— Fatigue and an unavailing search Switzerland

— Negotiations

to bo its character ? "

—

for

the

in

1878— Met by King

— The

King's proposition

for repose

new

— Three weeks in —" What was

enterprise

King Leopold's invitation to Brussels The meeting there in December 1878 The " Comite d'Etudes du Haut Congo" formed Final preparations for the journey-

—

—

Again e«

VOL.

I.

rc/wie to

Africa

..

b

..

'JO

CONTENTS.

xvi-i

CHAPTEE

IV.

THE AFRICAN' IXTEEXATIONAL ASSOCIATION.

—Witbdrawal of the English members —General Sanford's description of the Association — My relations with the International —My instructions to M. Cambier —Karema, a prosperous station— My instructions to Captain Popelin — Draft of propositions for the organisation of an Expedition — Farewell to Zanzibar—The SS. Albion starts on her

PAGE

Foiuidation of the Association

first

33

long voyage

CHAPTEE

Y.

EX ROVTE TO THE COXGO. Bankruptcy of Dutch merchants

at the

mouth

of the

Congo

:

its

—Letter to Colonel Straiich—The Expedition charged with being mysterious— Groundlessness of the charge —My personal conduct in the matter—Accident to the Albion — Compelled to at Sierra Leone — An amusing misunderstanding— An old friend — Kind attentions —Arrival at the mouth of the Congo effect

call

.

CHAPTEE BANAXA

.

50

YI.

POINT.

— Appearance of the coast— The majestic Congo — Our manly pilot — Banana Point —A good anchor— Advice as to clothing, food, and age— Effects of tropic general behaviour— The petite verre de Cognac^'' — Senseless abuse of Africa — Description of our boats— The eccentricities of

Approaching land

The

factories

life "•

the

En

.4i'an<— Clamours

among

the staff— Expenses, pay, and

—Description of the factories—A factory dinner Youth of the managers— The coloured helps—A busy scene A varied collection of stores —Immense i^owder supply and pui'pose — A melancholy spot — Banana Creek — Seething mud Local origin of the name " Banana —Prediction regarding the precedence

its

'"

Gl

fate of the i^eninsula

CHAPTEE

YII.

UP THE " MIGHTY " CONGO.

The

flotilla

proceeds up the river

—

—Braving the giant stream—Silence — — — —

Kissanga Ponta da Lenha Dutch on the wooded shores Guarding against floods The dangers of hospitality factories Depth of the river its volume The dry and rainy seasonsTidal action- -Fetish rock— " The d—1 had done it '—Ma-taddi Iszazzi, " Lightning Stone "— Boma, the principal emporium of trade Means of communication Loneliness and cheerlessness

—

:

—

—

CONTEXTS.

xix

— The blood-curdling history of Boma — Horrors of the slave-trade— A terrible punishment — The trade of Boma- The " wicked white man "—Progress of Boma^Historical treatment of the rirer— Hungry whites BafBed by the stream — " Hippopofcimus that's a rock, mun " A dead shot —Departure of the SS. Alhion for Europe

/•AIJE

A

change— African sunshine

refreshing

?

CHAPTEE L'P

Buka

THE CONGO

— Chinsalla

Island

officers of the

:

!

YIII.

BOMA TO

FROil

YITI.

Creek— Prince's Island— Burial-place

Tuckey Expedition

79

—Viuda-le-Xzaddi

of

village

— Number of trading establishments —Navigation of the Congo— Ultimate point of navigation —Eeconnaissance for a site for our chief station— Amount of steam-power required to breast Mussuko

us of a site— Castle — Dedede, the merry chief, —" Sure, beautiful, this —A fiery clearance—Amiable natives —Features of the district — Access and routes to the station — Arrangements for a " palaver "— Advantages of the chiefs of Yivi and their Yivi country exploration — The " men-at-arms— A splendid market for old clothes—The " palaver —A tight bargain- —Congoese shrewdness in trade —Lingenji, the the current

tells

!

Hill

it is

:

"

five

its

boy trader of Bolobo

— " Are

one?"— The

not Yivi and Nsanda

109

bargain closed

CHAPTER THE FOrXDlN'G OF VIVI

An

unpromising

field for "

:

IX.

A STORY OF WORK.

work—" He makes

his mark,

and many

— The signal given —Work olfered to the natives their astonishment—Eoad-making— Transport of stores of houses — I gain the name of Bula Matari, — Mapping the " Breaker of Eocks"— Garden-making —Duration of our working day —Native fondness of grog— Completing the head-quarters Extracts from descriptive to the President — Oflicers and marks make a road :

sites

letters

men

HO

at Yivi

CHAPTEE vivi TO isangila:

—

X.

a reconnaissance.

wagon route The gardens of Banza Somlio— Tho Loa Banza Uvana Fine view from Kaishaudi ^Vc visit our friend Dedede - Eeception of thirty chiefs and their retainers A conference Mysterious councils and final

Looking out

for a

valley of the

—

—

—

—

decisions— Distribution of gifts—A dear bargain

plateau— The Bundi valley— A

fine retreat for a

—A

deserted

recluse

-Ad-

CONTENTS.

XX

PAGE

—

ventures -nith buffaloes and elephants Harassing search for a herd-track " ]\Iabriiki, are you hurt or dead ? " A lucky fall

—

The course

of the future road revealed

— — Eest at Ndambi Mbongo

— Difficulty of our task— A tropical nest —" Tuckey's Furthest —Faithful " Mirambo "—The penitent chiefs of Isangila— Future operations — Proposed raihvay — Infusing confidence — Extracts from

ICO

Strauch

letters to Colonel

CHAPTEE VIVI TO ISANGILA

My

XI.

ROAD-MAKING

:

—

—A

CURIOUS CHAPTER.

— — —

— —

working force The whites Camp in the Loa valley Tracing a way through the tall grass Our first day's road-making " When in Eome you must do as the Eomans do," a mistake What food to take in the tropics Tillage idols A bigoted medicine-man Yahie of buffalo and hippoiiotami tracks Gin-drinking chiefs

—

A

—

determined old toper

—Difficulty

—

about the names of the

—Yellala Falls — Market-days— Snakes — Abundance of section — The sun at noon—Birds — Completion of the of our road — Overland conveyance of the steam-launch Boyal — " Troubles with the Europeans— Arrival of Belgian " commercials — The coldest part of the country— Death of a promising member of the Expedition — My sickness — A day's thermometer readings — Swinburne —Settlement of a trade dispute—Eesult 195 of IGO days' hard work — Eeports to the President Congo

game

first

first

ill

CHAPTEE

XII.

VIVI TO ISANGILA

continued.

— " Seize him, boys "—Fiote law— Trial and — The axe and the forest—In search of game ^Nostalgia — No more Europeans wanted — Our rain-stormHauling the En Acant overland— A Day of Eest— Arrival of Le !

Liitete, a truculent chief fine

of Lutete

first

Comte Savorgnan de Brazza— His

—A diflicult

and adventures

travels

— Successful formation of a road round the Point—Isangila— Captain Anderson's services— A year's progress — Our and losses 218 Ngoma

Point

engineering feat

toil, trials,

CHAPTEE

of

men and

gila scenery

quantity of stores

—

:

bound

— Ntombi's

The Long Eeach sands— Advantages

..

XIII.

BETWEEN THE CATARACT REGIONS

Number

,.

TO MANYANGA, for

—

Manyanga

—Isan-

dark ravine Crocodiles chasing us Curious rock-formations Eomjjing on the

—

of geniality

and

liveliness in dealing

with

CONTEXTS.

—Kilolo Point— Getting current — Kuvoko— We encounter

aborigines

XX

i

I-AGK

up steam pressure

for a stiff

—

two missionaries Their rcby tlie natives at Kinshassa and Mfwa Soudi of Ituru is " killed by a buflfalo Natives still friendly " A'kumbi, kumbi Nzambi Eapids The Kwilu—Procuring food A whirlpool Kimbauza Island A memory of 1877 Hamadi's slavery and wonderful escape Repairing our steamers Minnow iishiug Ndunga Eapids A place for suicides Ndunga dancing An exciting and extraordinary jDerformance Manyanga "Tol^ulse

—

—

— — — —

—

morrow we

shall

—

—

not work

;

we

—

!

—

—

— —

shall see the

—

—

strangers "

Doubtful reception from the natives

CHAPTER

'Ii'2

XIV.

FEVER AT MANYAXGA. I

am

prostrated by fever— Preparing for

death— Awakening

to life

— Joyful news —Reinforcements from Zanzibar— Lindner's arrival — Agreement with the chiefs of Manyanga A

voracious appetite

—Erecting the station

271

CHAPTER

XV.

A EECONJfAISSAXCE TO STANLEY POOL. All outrage iipon custom,

Death of M. Neve

and

—Letter

its

result

—Turbulent

marketing

respecting the support of

Manyanga

—A boy —Native pomp I\Ialameen bearing the French tricolour — A treaty regarding territory — The Gordon-Bennett — Mfwa — Malima — Gamankono, an old acquaintance — Instance of retentive memory " We are kings " —Arrival of IMalameen, whose fables alarm the villagers— Friendship supplanted by hate — Forced retirement from Malima — Evil news us — Stojiped by an armed crowd —" Tanlcy, Tanlcy — A timely arrival 281 — On the march to drowned — Bwabwa

Stanley Pool Njali, a

— Reception

by natives

dissembling chief

api:>ears,

all

2'i'ecedes

"

!

CHAPTER XVL NGALYEMA OF NTAMO.

— Threat of Bwabwa Njali — blood brother — Prosperity fraternity— Ngalyema demands my

Apin-oacliing starvation—Relief delayed

Arrival of

Ngalyema

of

Ntamo— A

c)f

—A grasping servant Dualla — We meet a Roman Catholic Mission — Its repulse the natives — More demands upon our stores — The cost of our negotiations —Richer goods required — Arrival in the Ziiiga disa native chief

l)y

trict

8(»2

COXTEXTS.

xxii

CHAPTER

XVII.

SETTLEMEKT AT STANLEY TOOL.

The

onli/

study of mankind

is

— Braconnier's

axle-tree

man — " Killing

accident

—"We

the road "

— A hroken — "The

encounter Susi

news from Ngalyema is good and bad "—Ivory traders' intrigiaes Ngalyema in reality a powerless chief Our "appetite for Itlack babies" lyumbi mountain Makoko^A six-foot beard Overtures to Makoko His reply " But, my friend, rememlier

—

—

—

—

— — — Mild but valorous — " Influential men"^ gives me his sword —Ngalyema comes to tight— Our preparations for war — A ruse — Ngalyema comes to the camp A dissembling welcome— Masked hostility—" What nice things has my brother brought " —" Make up your mind that I go to or near Kintamo " — A war fetish — The signal of the gong " Strike— strike I you "— My force spring up like armed madmen — A general stampede — Success of the ruse — " Ah, I was not afraid, was I?" — Peace, brotherhood, and conviviality 313 —

we own Hakoko

the country"

?

it,

tell

!

..

CHAPTER

XYIII.

THE FOUNDIXG OE LEOPOLDVILLE.

— Prospects of road-maldng—Payment —Ngamberengi's account of Ngalyema's —Fightingstrengthof tribes— Our advance on Kintamo—Native callages— Selecting camping ground — Leopold Hill — An from Ngalyema — New camp formed 3^5

Susi reconnoitres the country of native workers

life

offer

CHAPTER XIX. THE FOUNDIXG OF

hilOFO'LTtVILl.E— continued.

Ngalyema and " Bula Matari "—Wily

tactics of

Ngalyema— A

one-

—Strained relations—" Everybody's iinger on the trigger "—Armed — Gorgeous apparel—" Speak, Ngalyema peace or war "—" Ay, me, Bula Matari The brotherhood not broken —Kintamo a populous place Proposed palaver— Outbreak imminent-—Mysterious disappearance of two of my men— Arrival of Konko — The palaver takes place — The trouble ended — Noisy rejoicing— Trading operations—Kinshassa —Nchuvila— Our block-house — News from Vivi —New recruits—Bwabwa convenient forgetfulness Strength of the expedition — Malingering —Anxiety about the exploring party— Selling to the natives —Witchcraft —Profit on ivory — Thriving gardens—A party—Engeli's enmity—Ivory transactions—The people anxious to trade— Brotherhood with sided balance sheet

is

visits

;

is it

?

kill

!

is

is

Njali's

lost

Ngalyema

.,

857

COXTEXTS.

CHAPTER XX. rP THE COXGO TO LAKE LEOPOLD

Naming

the

new

station " Leopoldville

ster," or " ivory trader,"

— Description

and

"

If.

—" The middleman,"

his inflnence

—Fine

r.vo K

" ling-

— Docility of Xgalyema

yiew from Leopold Hill Companionable neighbours The pomp of death A rich bnt neglected land what might be made of it Departure of the first Upper Congo expedition Bamu Island "Wild animals Stanley Pool Slow progress— The fierceness of crocodiles Impressions of scenery Comparison with Scotch scenery "Width and soundings of the Congo Yohame of the river with its tributaries Jottings for future pilots Mswata New acquaintances^ Gandelay's favourable decision Giral, a French quartermaster Eeturn to Kintamo a cordial greeting Susii Mpembe, the "White Chicken "—The KwaPdver 3SG of Leoi^oldville

—

—

——

:

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

— —

—

—

;

CHAPTER

XXI.

DISCOVERY OF LAKE LKOPOLD Start on the exploration of the

scenery of the

—

11.

Kwa — The Mbihe and

Kwa — Fertile

soil

—Towing canoes

the Mfini

— The

unsuccessful

—" Don't frighten Gankabi too much —Kemeh — colours of the river — Musye —Eela, the faithless — Mosquitoes in myriads — Natives extracting from grass — Gankabi, Queen of Musye — A commantling woman— " Follow me this instant to Ngete "— Scarcity of food—Musye Munono— Difficulty in getting information banks—An unexiDCcted lake — Film Hostile natives on the of dust upon the water-— Bays and wood-clad shore — Our lessening food — Encounter with native canoes — Fright and skurry Pursuit and a dive for a capture —" There are many better than I in our village"— Repelled by natives— Circumnavigation of Lake Leopold IL — Hunger, and return to Leopoldville "

Curious natives

Island— Sepulchre of chiefs

Difi"erent

salt

!

river's

illness,

Rest at Isangila

410

CHAPTER XXIL RETURN TO EUROPE.

—No progress— Dr. Peschuel-Loeche— Zanzibaris sent Paul de Loanda — Appearance of to Yivi — the city— Absence of sanitary measures — The hospital and prison — A Howard wanteil — Tiie Governor-General in the past

Iletum

to Vivl

home—Good-bye

St.

Neglected water and railway works of call

—Discomforts

Atlantic

of the voyage

Eu

routv to

—Madeira,

Lisbon

— Ports

the Pearl of

Ww It"

CONTENTS.

XX iv

CHAPTER

XXIII.

CONDITION OF AFFAIRS ON THE CONGO. TACE

Tlie position explained to the

Comite—A

railroad

imperative—Im-

—

portance of retaining the guardianship of the territory The prospects of trade Arrangements for the Upper Congo expedi-

—

tion

—Difficulty in getting an efficient

Assistant Chief

.

.

,

.

462

CHAPTER XXIV. TO STANLEY POOL.

—

—

Lisbon to Banana Creek Dismal news— Yivi demoralised Elliott's Massala shot by a French trader exijedition to Kwilu-Niadi An enormous fine I act as peacemaker Lieutenant Van de Yelde's mission to Kwilu-Niadi Appearance of the Saggitaire

—

—

—

—

—Bad

— — —

news from Leopoldville starving station Ferry traffic on the Congo Kindly attentions from the natives Leopoldville neglected and grass-gi'own Canoe sad state of matters An unfortunate young officer accidents A false alarm of murder A siiicide— Ee-establishexpedition

Piclief of Elliott's

— —

—

!

—

—

—

!

—

ing friendly relations with the chiefs— An important conference,

and

its results

— Noble work of English missionaries

,.

..

..

408

CHAPTER XXV. TO BOLOBO.

—

Improving Leopoldville Departure of the Upper Congo Expedition Gambiele, Its equipment Kimpoko, " Good View Station " chief of Kimpoko Stanley Pool again Papa Gobila Makoko of Mbe—Fumu Ntaba— " Bula Matari, don't you go to Mbe "— Growth of Mswata town The beer of ]\Iantu The Lawson-

—

—

—The

—

—

—

—

—

—

—A splendid —My former repulse by the wild men—Two-Palm Point— 3Iurder of two of our men— Bolobo district—A pojjulous neighbourhood—Difficulty in finding Europeans adapted for intercourse with natives —Ibaka, the senior chief of Bolobo —Incidents in his —A bellicose garrison—A jealous chief, and conjugal —" Blood must be shed for blood, or money must infidelity i>ay for —A tardy payment—Dangers of beginning war—Bolobo

Lufini river

real heart of equatorial Africa

region

life

it "

cession of territory

498

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. (Vol L)

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE

so. 1.

His Majesty Leopold

2.

The

II.,

King

.

,

.

5.

" Albert, in a frenzy of delight,

(].

Headquarters, Vivi Station, and Castle Hill.

7.

The

8.

View

9.

Tlie ascent of a slope in the

Boma, opposite the

a photograph)

..

..

..

..

..

..

..

..

..

..

..

..

..

Ascending Nyongena Hill

11.

Ngoma

12.

The

..

13.

A

14.

On

(From a

..

..

..

Soudi of Ituru

Manyanga ..

..

Station.

..

in the wilderness

..

..

.,

120

..

„

l.io

..

..

..

..

202

..

..

..

.,

209

..

..

.,

228

..

.,

23G

,,

252

..

..

..

View down ..

..

(From

river.

..

..

..

between the Mpalanga and I-ulu

(From, a photograph)

..

..

..

his senses completely "

of Leopoldville

Up

Ach Gott I.

,

322

foe, lost

..

..

..

..

••

341

..

..

..

..

•-

388 394

Lake Leopold

20 " Another glance, and '

..

283

April 1884

the Mfiui to

VOL.

..

and Kintamo

,,

rivers. ..

..

Every native present, would-be friend and would-be

18. Leopoldvillc,

107

27.">

the Plateau of

View

,,

,

a photograph)

16. "

100

..

..

Farewell

Camp

.,

photo-

Point after the great wagon-road had been completed. (From a photograph) .. .. .. .. .. .. fate of poor

98

(From a photograph hy

Mpagassa (jorge .

„

(From

]\Iboma.

(From a photograph)

of Yellala Falls from left bank.

10.

19.

Buka

68

Boma.

at

must first bcstriile the carcase, .. his papa at Copenhagen " ..

Interior of Vivi Station.

Dr. Allabd)

17.

..

..

that he might write to

graph)

Isle of

..To face

.

View down river from behind the English Factory (From a photograph) .. .. .. ..

A portion of

15.

Banana Point,

.

4.

Frontiqyicce.

..

Flotilla of the International Expedition at

near the Dutch Factory 3.

of the Belgians

!'

it

4:^3

II.

seems

to

be overwhelming him, when,

he springs overboard

"

..

..

..

..

..

C

M')

LIST OF ILLUSTBATIOXS. PACK 21.

The Head

ti'I.

The West Coast Native Employe's

of

Lake Leopold

2o. Crossing the 3Ipalanga. 24.

Women

To face

II

in the Plaza of Vivi

(^From a photograph)

in the Market-place

;

470 480

..

for Le'opoldville, before

called a town, must possess a market.

US

it

can be

{From a photograph)

r)01

SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS. The Kingdome

Congo "

25.

'•

2tj.

Colonel Straiich

27.

The Forested Banks

28.

Group

of

10 5.")

of Natives

of the

Lower Congo

99

on the Lower Congo

29. Island

110

','•0.

Down

ol.

Native House with a Family Group

'.'•2.

Sketcli

o3. Native

89

—Men, Women, and Youths

the river from Tivi

Map

119

.

122

of Yivi

125

Chicken Seller

131

i'i.

Congo from Landing-place, Vivi

V>5.

Specimens of our Employe's

140

View of Yivi Headquarters from the North Yiew of Y'ivi Station from the North

150

i'.G.

o7.

134

..

158

88. Ba.sundi Native

174

i'-D.

General View of Yivi.

40.

Diagram

of

Truck

for

(From

a sketch

Machinery

by Mr. Naets)..

200

41. Fetish Idols

42. Elevation of Steel Ligliter

43. L'pland

188 198

.

211

..

Road through Forest Encampment

229

44.

Mons. de Brazza

4.").

Elevation of Sailing Boat

252

40.

Plan of Sailing Boat

252

47.

Plan of Lighter

48.

Diagram

49.

Plan of Steamer

263

50.

Caravan Grouj)

289

5L

Ivory Carriers

52.

Ngalyema, Chief of Kintamo

53. 54.

The Narrows near Msampala The Cascades of the Mpalanga

55.

Looking towards Stanley Pool from high ridge inland

56.

A Yiew

of

232

261

New

Steamer Le Stanley, since added

to the Flotilla of

the Association

from a

2G:!

294

Camp

57.

One

58.

Bateke Native

59.

Types of our Coloured EmpLoye's

of the Bateke'

.

. .

300

'

318 322

..

..

.

324

320 330

.

338 .

347

LIST OF TLLUSTBATIONS. 60.

Types of our Employes

Eye View of Shiulcy Fix Ndua Lieutenant Van de Veldc Our West Coast Employ I'V ..

61. Bird's

il

62. Village of 6:!.

61.

.

65. Lieutenant

Orbau

66.

Sketch of a Banana Garden

67.

60.

View from tlie Terrace below Kinipoko .. View from Kimpoko The Upper Congo issuing into Stanley Pool.

70.

Papa Gobila

68.

(From a

of iMswata

71.

Types of our Coloured Emploje's

72.

By-Yanzi

73.

Native Method of Holding a tJun.

..

(Fi-om a sletdi hy

THE CONGO THE FOUNDING OF

FREE STATE.

ITS

CHAPTER

I.

PREVIOUS HISTORY OF THE CONGO. Early discoveries

—Erroneous nomenclature— Inaccurate descriptions — The British Expedition

Difficulties in following the old chroniclers

of 1816

— Its

misfortunes, but finally successful

Livingstone's last Expedition

— The Dally

scientific

result

Tehgraph and Xeio York

—Discovery of the continuity of the Congo.

Herald Expedition, 1876

The

discovery of the mouth of the Congo

Diego

Cao_, or

Cam, a Portuguese naval

Gentleman of the Household of Portugal.

Dom

to

is

due to

officer,

Joao

II.,

and

King

This event occurred in the year 1484-5,

while, according to Duarte Lopez, a naval expedition

was

sailing along the coast of Africa for the purpose

To commemorate the

of discovering the East Indies.

discovery the

commander of the

fleet

erected a pillar

on the southern point of the debouchure, by which the river

became known

Pillar River, flowing

for a

time as the Rio de Padrao, or

through the kingdom of Congo.

Martin de Behaim, or ^fartin of Bohemia, wlio was present at the discovery, called

VOL

I.

it

the Rio Poderoso, or

B

i4S4_r,

w^^go

t'ac/,

THE CONGO.

2 1578.

Mighty River, from the immense volume of water

'^^^''

is

discharged by Lopez,

who

it

into the ocean.

Angola

visited

the " greatest river in tongue, which signifies

De Barras and century the

in 1578, describes

Merolla,

who

followed Lopez over a

name

modern Portuguese are devotedly classic

as

—the

" That lucid river ''

as

"

I know.'

'

later, also called it the Zaire, a

The term

it

Congo, called Zaire in that

probably because their it

tiiat

to

which

attached, most

poet Camoens describes

long winding Zaire."

Zaire," however, with all due deference

and geographers,

to the old travellers

is

only a cor-

ruption of Nzari, Nzali, Njali, Xzaddi, Nyadi, Xiadi,

and other

mean

different

river

limits of

in the

spellings of

many

words which simply spoken within the

dialects

what was popularly supposed three centuries

ago to be the kingdom of Congo.

About

the beginning of the 17th century

that the river began to be designated on the

we

find

maps

as

Rio de Congo, while the upper portion retained the

name of Zaire. The English map-makers ever invariably

named

Portuguese

still

Any

one

who

early globes or

almost

all

it

since

have almost

the River of Congo, while the

continue to

call it

by

its

ancient name.

will take the trouble to glance at the

maps

of Africa

will

perceive

that

the geographical information relating to

equatorial regions illustrated

its

by these must have been

founded by hearsay from natives, probably ivory or

ERRONEOUS NOMENCLATURE.

As one

slave traders from the interior. I

need only

3

proof of this

the pertinacity with which map-makers

cite

and geographers cling

famous " kingdom of

the

to

Anzichi, and the people of Anzichana living on both sides of the river Zaire."

means

or rather Nseke,

my

book

"

Anzichana," however,

people of the interior, and " Anzichi,"

literally signify

In

The

'

" inland."

Through the Dark

Continent,' I also

speak of a town or large market called Ngornbe',

whereas

after obtaining a smattering of the

language

" to

now know Ngombe mean simply inland. And during my early voyages np and down the Congo I "

I

heard of a place called Mpama, and had located

it

pretty exactly as I thought in the Uyanzi country,

Avhen suddenly

I

learned that

Mpama

in the language

of Uyanzi stood also for " inland."

Another instance of the singular ignorance of early writers respecting the lands and rivers they attempted to describe

is

the

extraordinary

description

Lower Congo given by Duarte Lopez "

The

of the

in 1578.

river is navigable for twenty-five miles with large boats

reaches a strait between rocks, where the waters pour

till

tremendous noise as to be heard nearly eight miles off. This place by the Portuguese Cachivera that is a fall or cataract, as

—

called

it

down with such is it

resembles that of the Nile."

In

the

furtlier

following three

quotations

be found

will

proof that the writers of the IGth and 17th

centuries either

were unable

to confine themselves to

exact description of what they saw,

was most

or, as

probable, they had no better authorities for their state-

ments than slave traders and coast

gossip. 15

2

i578. ^°'^*^^*

THE CONGO.

4

A

1645.

Cai^chins.

Capuchin father, belonging to the missionary

expedition sent by

Congo thus

in

1G4.'), ^Y^ites

of the

:

Of the many

*'

Pope Paul V.

and

rivers, great

small, wliicli traverse Congoland, ore

larger than the others is the Zaire,

which according

to the received

opinion even in onr times springs from some perennial waterfalls which form the Xile. Both rivers separate themselves from the same source, the Xile flowing through

Africa northwards until

all

it falls

into the

3Iediterranean Sea, and the Zaire in the contrary direction flowing down formidable precipices towards the west, winding among rocks and banks

sometimes with so

much

two or three leagues distance it The volume of such a river, flows foi-ms whirlijools, and in some places

noise that at

deafens and frightens the inhabitants. increasing in quantity as

it

expands so widely that one can hardly distinguish the opposite banks, and finally debouches by seven gi'eat mouths into the Atlantic, Its rapidity frightens even the lx)ldest pilots, who maintain that it is impossible to cross the

open channel, and therefore they seek fords where the

islands break the force of the current, and, weakening

it,

make

the pas-

These islands are very populous and very well cultivated. Throughout the kingdom of Congo are many other rivers, remarkable not

sage easier.

so

much

for their rapidity as for their

enormous serpents, and other monsters

Father writes

numbers of crocodiles, sea-horses, which we have no names."

for

despatched

Merolla,

Congo

to

in

1G82,

:

" In consequence of the waters of the Zaire being yellow, the river hs

known

many

hundred miles as it flows into the sea, and by means of kingdoms were discovered hitherto unknown."

for a

large

In another place the same writer mentions Zaire

is

voyages and travels.

he must have read

He *•'

writes of the The

the

twenty-eight miles wide at the mouth

The Engrlishman Purchas was an piler of

tliat

it

'

score, and, as

waves yield

.shore.

Congo

some

Yea,

it

is

very evident that

The Chronicles of after the following

river is of such force that

bat near to the

It

industrious com-

the Jesuits.'

manner

no ship can get in against the current,

prevails against the ocean's saltness three-

say, fourscore miles within the sea, before his

their full

:

homage, and receive that

salt

proud

temper in token of

TEE OLD

CEIiOXICLEIiS.

oTernmning the and swollen with conceit of daily conquests armies of showers are by the clouds sent to

Sucli is the hauglity spirit of tliat stream,

subjection.

low countries as

it

isiG.

passeth,

and daily supplies which his succoui', runs

now

in

twenty miles as Lojiez

Tuckey.

in a furious rage, thinking even to swallow the

With

ocean which before he never saw. giant-like

5

his

aflfirmeth in the opening,

enemy which

lies

lurldng under the

mouth gaping

eight

and

but meeting with a more

cliffs

to receive his assault,

swallowed in that wider womb.

Yet so as always being conquered he never gives over, but in an eternal quarrel, with deep and indented frowns in his angry face, foaming with disdain and iilling the air with noise, with fresh help supplies those forces which the salt sea hath consumed."

is

iDresently

From

these extracts

it is

clear that

it

time trying to follow the old chroniclers. I

is a

waste of

Frequently

have endeavoured to trace them where they gravely

give names of localities and attempt to describe the districts of

which they write, but

compelled to abandon

and grieving

my work

I

have always been

with an aching head,

at the loss of valuable time incurred in

the useless effort.

Through the sheer

describing to others

what

I

impossibility of

cannot consistently, with

the local knowledge I possess, explain to myself, I constrained to

draw the

dition despatched

year

181 G, under

reader's attention to an expe-

British Government, in the

by the

Captain James Kingston Tuckey,

which was the means of giving us a and

am

definite information of the

reliable, accurate,

Lower Congo, although

only to the extent of 172 statute miles inland.

In the instructions furnislied by the Admiralty Captain Tuckey of what

is

may

to

be found corroborative evidence

stated above.

I

quote the following

:

\

"Although the expedition about to be undertaken for exploring tlit^ course of the Zaire, which flows through the kingdom of Congo, in Southern Africa, was originally grounded on a suggestion of its being

181C.

Tuckev,

COS GO.

777^

6 itlentical

ascertain

with the Niger, this

point

is

it is

not to be understood that the attempt to object of the

by any means the exclusive

expedition."'

" That a river of such a magnitude as the Zaire, and offering so many should not be known with any degree of certainty Ix-yond,

peculiarities, if

so far as, 200 miles from its

state of geographical science,

who

mouth and

is

incompatible with the advanced

little

creditable to those Europeans

have occupied various parts of the coast near to which it empties itself into the sea, and have held communication with the interior of the country through which it descends by means of missionaries and slave agents. So confined indeed is our knowledge of the course of this remarkable river that the only chart of it which can for nearly three centuries

have any pretension to accuracy does not extend above 130 miles, and it is called, is more than questionable." " There can be little doubt, however, that a river which runs more

the correctness of this survey, as

and discharges more water than either the Ganges or the Nile, and which has this peculiar quality of being almost at all seasons of the year in a flooded state, must not only traverse a vast extent of country, but must also be supplied by large branches flowing from diff"erent and l^robably opposite directions, so that some one or more of them must at all times of the year pass through a tract of coimtry where the rains To ascertain the soiu'ces of these great l>ranches, then, will be l)revail. rapidly,

one of the principal objects of the present expedition."

Captain

Tuckej's

expedition

numbered

fifty-six

Europeans, and, to quote the words of the Secretary to the Admiralty, " there

never was in

this, or in

any

other country, an exj^edition of discovery sent out with better

prospects

or

more

flattering hopes of success

than the one in question."

Yet,

by a

fatality that is

almost inexplicable, never were the results of an expedition

more melancholy and

disastrous.

Captain

Tuckey, Lieutenant Hawkey, Mr. Eyre, and ten of the Congo's crew, Professor Smith, Mr. Crancli, Mr.

Tudor, and Mr. Gal way

—

in

all

eighteen persons

within the short period of less

—died

than three months

during which they remained in the river, or a few da3^s after leaving

it.

Fourteen of the above-mentioned

CAPTAIN TUCKET'S EXPEDITIOX.

who

Tvere of the party of thirty

journej beyond the cataracts

other

the

;

Two

attacked on board the Congo.

on

set out

tlie

four

laud

isee.

were

Livinsstone

died during the

passage out.

"When

treatino: of the

to explain the causes tality

which

members of

the

I shall

have occasion

led to this excessive

mor-

this unfortunate expedi-

which, however disastrous

tion, life,

among

cHmate*

m.ay have been to

it

furnished to geographical science a very valuable

For the

contribution.

was shorn of

myth and

all

time the Lower Congo

first

fi\ble,

with an accuracy that cannot be

and was described

much

excelled even

in the present day.

Captain Tuckey learned from the natives that the river

was known

literally

them

as

means Receiver of

all

Cruisers

of

to

many

nations

river at various times since;

added much of

its

to

Moenzi Xzaddi, which Rivers.

have visited the great

and naval

officers

our knowledge of the river's depth, and

currents, besides giving the

names of

and trading depots situated along the banks. melancholy

have

loss of life incurred

expedition served to

warn

factories

But the

by Captain Tuckey's

off all scientific

missions for

a period of over half a century.

In 18G6 Dr. Livingstone, inspired by Sir Roderick ^lurchison, set out on his final journey, with the object

of exploring the watershed between Lakes Nyassa and

Tanganika.

Li 1807 he discovered

a

large river flow-

ing westward, which he subsequently learned had *

Sec Vol.

11.

:

Climate, Piirt 11.

its

TEE CONGO. 1871.

sources in the folds of

stone!

of Mambwe'.

tlie Ciiibale Hills,

Believing, with

many

in the country

other geographers

of that day, that he had at last discovered the extremest

head of the Xile, he traced the course of

which was named Chambezi,

river,

Lake Bemba or Baugweolo, 29°.

river

until

in S. lat. 11°

this large it

reached

and E. long.

During the years 1868-1871, he found that the emerged from Lake Bangweolo under the native «

name

of

Luapula,

and

flowed northerly,

another lake called Mweru, whence

name

now

of Lualaba.

He

last

it

saw the

enter

to

issued under the river,

which was

Manyema,

of vast volume, at ISTyangwc, in

at a

distance of about 1500 English statute miles from

its

sources.

In October 1876 the expedition despatched by the

London Daily Telegraph and ^ew York Herald,

for the

completion of Livingstone's explorations, arrived at the

Arab town its

of Nyangwe',

and shortly

after set out

mission of following the river to the sea

;

on

and 281

days later this expedition sighted the Atlantic Ocean,

having proved by the navigation of the river

1660 miles, and a land journey of 140

for about

miles, that the

Chambezi, Luapula, or Lualalja was no other than the Congo, whose embouchure was discovered by the

Portuguese just four centuries ago. It is the

subsequent history of this noble stream,

and the extraordinary enterprise which

this discovery

caused to be undertaken, that, after a short politicohistorical sketch, I propose to set forth in the following

pages.

THE CAPUCHIN EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER

II.

THE POLITICAL HISTORY OF CONGO-LAND. Piqafetta's

dition

'

Kingdom

—The

of the

of Congo-land

capital

Congo '—Chronicle of the Capuchin Expe-

stone pillars of

the Portuguese: their purpose

— Conversion

King

of the

— The —

to Christianity

— Hostile incursion of the —Territorial claims of the Portuguese — Expulsion of the Portuguese from Congo-land— The slave trade — The missions of Eome Missions and ancient religious edifices

Jaggas

and France— Boundaries and general description of Congo-land The position and power of its chiefs Treaties of the International

—

Association.

AYiTH the discovery of the mouth of the River Congo

1501. Piqafette.

Cam

by Diego Land.

begins the poHtical history of Congo

Mrs. Margarite Hutchinson has lately given a

The Kingdom

of

Congo,' by Filippo Piqafetta, Rome, 1591, wherein

we

translation of

an old book called

are told that the "

kingdom

miles long, and that

GOO miles

;

it

"

'

had a

coast-line of

G30

penetrated inland a distance of

but the author of the voluminous chronicle

of the Capuchin expedition, published in 1G70, very cpiaintly

says

informed, and

that

some

"

who

claim

to

who perhaps do come near

be well

the truth,

reckon up a mixed collection of peoples, potentates,

and

princes,

who

held joint possession of

of country which

And

if,

is

called

the

in addition to all that

is

all

that tract

Kiugdom

of Congo.

certainly

known, we

THE CONGO.

10 1670.

The Capuchins.

add that

wliicli Is guessed,

persuade ourselves tion

of the

tliat,

we may with some

assurance

just as Africa is a great ^^or-

terrestial globe,

divided and subdivided

into divers kingdoms, so in the

same way Congo was

divided into various dominions." It

has been already stated that a memorial in the

shape of a stone

pillar

was erected by the Portuguese

discoverer on the southern point of the river,

known to-day

the discovery.

It

as

mouth of the

Point Padron, to commemorate

was a custom with the old Portu-

guese navigators, when starting on a voyage of maritime exploration, to take with them several of these stone pillars, to set up on prominent points of

new

land, not only as memorials of discover}-, but also to indicate

Crown

an intention

of Portugal.

to

annex such new lands

However,

this

to the

raising of pillars

MISSION L ABO UBS.

11

only signified at the utmost an intention to occupy, or

show possession of such

to

from pre-emption.

as are derived

privileges

If they did not immediately occupy

the ground or settle upon

it

within a reasonable length

of time, those privileges to which they were entitled after discovery, or the act of pre-emption, lapsed.

Congo Proper extended to about

The

200 miles.

in

an easterly direction

river that derives its

name

from the ancient kingdom was generally known as

its

northern boundary, though there were several inde-

pendent the

then, as now, lying between

districts

To

river.

Kwanza.

The

south

the

capital

was

it

and

extended as far as the

it

Ambeze,

called Ambassi, or

but on the conversion of the king to Christianity, in the beginning of the IGth century, to

Europeans

as

San Salvador.

nearest landing-place on the

it

became known

Its distance

Congo

is

from the

about eighty-

five statute miles.

The King of Congo must have proved a subject

for

a

since

p^roselyte,

fitting

the Portuguese were

so successful in their missionary efforts that in a short

time almost

all

persons

who were

to the mission established at

San Salvador

A cathedral

verted and baptised.

in authority to

came

be con-

and several churches

were erected, and in 1534 we read of a bishop having been appointed. Thirty-six tlie

years

later

occurred

tlie

incursion

of

savage Ajakkas, variously called Jaggas, Giagas,

\'akkas,

who overran

the entire country, burning and

slaughtering wherever they went

—and

the Christian

1570.

jaggL

TEE COXGO.

12 1570.

San Salvador, with

city of

Portu|nese "^'^s

and the missionaries, Horses

refuo-e in the Isle of

Boma

An

number of

his

Congo and took

— one of those

laro-e islands

capable of

affording shelter to

people.

appeal for help was despatched to the

Portugal,

600

fled to the

king,

probably, since above that neighbourhood

there are no islands

a large

cathedral and churches,

Bcfore the invaders, the

destrojcd.

court,

near

its

who promptly responded

soldiers,

with

the

to

it

King

by sending

of whose firearms

aid

of

the

Jaggas were ignominiously expelled from the country,

and the King of Congo was enabled and the missionaries It

that

stated

is

Loanda there

to restore their churches.

the archives

in

tlie

Portuo-uese

coast from the Pillar Point, at the

Kwanza

of St. Paul de

a document, dated 1570,

is

the Kino- of Cono;o ceded to

to the

to rebuild his city,

by which all

of the

mouth of the Congo,

Piver, as a reward for the aid given

to the distressed

king during the savage invasion

;

but

Dapper, the Dutch geographer, relates that the Congo

king only offered

and

to

accept

to

pay an annual

tribute of slaves,

the Portuguese king as his suzerain,

which His Faithful Majesty magnanimously

refused,

saying that he considered the King of Congo as his brother in arms, and that he was fully repaid by the

knowledge of the

About

King

constancy in the Catholic

sixty years later

Congo broke

of

guese, in districts

latter's

we

faith.

are informed that the

off all allegiance to

the Portu-

consequence of which Sonho, one of the

of Congo, rebelled

;

the mission established

EXFULSIOX OF THE FOFTUGUESE.

13

San Salvador was broken up, and the bishopric

at

established St.

1534

in

that

at

city

was transferred

to

Paul de Loanda in Angola.

In 1781, about 150 years after the expulsion of the

made

Portuguese, an attempt was

work

San Salvador.

at

Unfortunately the rightful

king was at that time a missionaries,

to reopen the mission

banished

man, and

having met him outside his

the

and

city,

learning from him the distracted state of the country,

withdrew, and returned to Loanda.

Then

follows a silence and a blank in the history

of Congo-land, and cathedral

town

ruin

We

own.

for its

until Dr. Bastian, the

claims the

once promising

hear no more of

eminent German

exploring in that locality

in

it

traveller, after

1857, writes that

it

is

only " an ordinary native town, with a few scattered

monuments of other

days.''

In 1873, Lieutenant Grandy, of the West African Livingstone Search Expedition, passed through San Salvador.

According

to his

account he found nothing

but ruins, and a pagan ignorance of everything bear-

Some

ing the least semblance of civihsation.

of the

native leaders of coast caravans understood and spoke a lingua-Portugueza, but the explorer eu countered

no

welcome.

The year subsequent

to

my

descent of the Congo

witnessed the arrival at San Salvador of the missionaries of the Baptist Missionary Society,

who

succeeded

in establishing a Protestant Mission therein.

To

the north of the

Congo River about

thirty miles,

isrs. cn-audj-

THE CONGO.

14 1816.

and

on the

situate

Tuckey.

^Qj,^|-^y

coast, is

Kabinda

— the

only place

q£ being distinguished in the political history

of this region (by an attempt of the Portuguese to establish the authority of the

King

of Portugal near

the Congo) since the raising of the memorial stone

by

Diego Cam.

In 1784, the Portuguese commenced to

construct

Kabinda a

at

fortlet,

from other European nations,

which drew protests

until they

were

finally

compelled, by a French squadron under the Marquis

de Marigny, to demolish the fort and withdraw from

Kabinda.

During the days when the slave trade was in

full

operation the Portuguese possessed a few offices on the

Congo

for the

shipment of slaves to the Brazils; but

when it was ascertained that Angola could furnish as many slaves as were necessary to meet the demands of the Brazilian planters, these also were withdrawn

and transferred

Paul de Loanda.

to St.

In 1816, according

to Captain

2000 slaves shipped annually

Tucke}^, there were

to the xVmericas.

That

Captain Tuckey was a truthful and honourable gentle-

man can

be

testified

by

all

who

liave

been on the Congo

and compared what he describes with themselves have seen

;

tliat

which they

he observed with a keen eye

all

manner of things

in the

about to explore.

In no part of his notes, nor in any

of those

of his

companions, can be discovered the

slightest evidence of

cised authority

little-known region he was

Portuguese occupation or exer-

on either bank of the Congo.

All the Portuguese

whom

Captain Tuckey met were

SUPPRESSION OF THE SLAVE TRADE. slave

owners of slave barracoons

traders,

;

15

and the

i^^"Sliive

natives of

Boma

informed him that,

if

the English de-

sired the like privileges as the Portuguese,

cede to them

Down

all

to a late

profitable

they would

the land which they would require.

period

trading was the only

slave

employment followed by the Europeans

Portuguese, French, S]3aniards

—

— on the Congo.

In 1810 the European Powers resolved to suppress Portugal, which had been the

the slave trade.

was the

to start the traffic,

abandon his book,

it.

Tuckey mentions

when he

writes

power

last

in

first

Europe

to

this fact incidentally in

that he

was compelled

to

the natives that no other nation but the Portuguese

tell

was permitted

to trade in

This arrangement

slaves.

be found in the Treaty of Alliance entered into

will

between England and Portugal, 19th February, 1810. In the treaty of the 22 nd January, 1815, Portugal

renounced the right to carry on the slave trade north of the equator, Ijut with regard to the south the privilege

was again granted

tories of the it

reserved

to

her both

in the actual terri-

Portuguese Crown, and in those its

rights under the

to

which

preceding treaty of

1810.

In 1817 the British Government declared the slave trade to be piracy,

and

it

was accordingly the

object of

vigorous suppression outside of Portuguese waters, that is

to say, in all

waters not actually fronting Portuguese

possessions.

In the support of this policy a British cruiser iu 184G captured a slave-ship a

little to

the north of Amhriz.

Trade,

THE COS GO.

16 1846.

Trade.

The capture gave

rise to

diplomatic correspondence be-

twecn the Governments of Grreat Britain and Portugal, concerning the rights of the latter country, wherein the Portuguese were informed that, though their rights

between the 8th and 18th degrees of the British

recognised,

S. Lat.

were

Government maintained the

liberty of unrestricted commercial intercourse S. Lat. 5° 12'

between

and 8^

by the Portuguese

Missionaries had been employed

San Salvador and other places inland,

Government

at

but with

decay of

tbie

fully

its

power these were withdrawn,

and those who survived the were

ill-understood,

which was very

climate,

transferred

Angola.

to

Rome,

under Pope Paul T. (1621) and Innocent X. (1G52), despatched no peditions,

less

than six separate missionary exaltogther

consisting

chin monks,

who were

Congo, Angola,

Loanga, Bamba,

at

Capu-

appointed to the missions of

Pemba, Sonho, and Sundi.

was organised

of ninety-five

A

Batta,

Masangano

French mission

also

an early period in the 18th century

under the Abbe Belgarde,

who was

styled,

according

to the fashion then prevailing in Angola, " Prefet de la Mission de

Loango, Kakongo, and other kingdoms

beyond the Zaire."

Whatever may have been

the extent of

the various countries adjoining

it

Congo and

in the 15th, IGtb,

centuries, or the character of the poli-

17th,

and 18th

tical

power invested

in the persons

grandiloquently

styled "kings," '^potentates," "princes," "dukes,"

" counts,"

by the old

chroniclers, there

is

and

no evidence to

TEE BOUNDABIES OF COXGO-LAND. he gained at

tlie

17

memory

present time, dating from the

of the oldest chief I have met, that the condition of

things differed greatly from what exists to-day.

Congo-land I find to be an inland country, bounded

on the south by the upper part of the Ambrizette River; western boundar}' runs northerly to a point about

its

thirty miles from Nokki,

and thence runs easterly sixty

geographical miles, thence in a curving line easterly, south,

south-

and south-westerly, along the western

base of the Montes Quemados, or Burnt Rocks, to the

Ambrizette River, making altogether an area of about

4000 square miles

(geo.).

The

town

cliief's

the natives Ambassi, but the Portuguese

name

of

the

town

in 1878, describes the king,

as

^Ir.

an unimportant person, although

was H.M. flag

Dom

was dark

Pedro,

King

still call it

by

named

his

Totela,

assumed

The

of Congo.

national

and along the

sea-coast, is

left

bank of the

absorbed by minute

many chiefs; many groups of

subdivisions of power, under as it

generally happens, under as

varying, according to the size of the

district,

to ten persons.

The native

elder possessing

two or three slaves

title

or,

as

elders,

from three

of a chief or of an

nally meaning, without doubt, king. slave owners

title

blue, with a golden star in the centre.

All the rest of the country on the river,

by

Comber, who visited

the

San Salvador.

called

is

is

Nfumu,

origi-

Now, however,

having become so numerous, the

title

has

descended from the fortunate victor over thousands,

who

— of their olden times—

became owner of the captives as their liberties, in the

VOL.

I.

bodies as well

to the arrogant

c

i878.

comber.

THE CONGO.

18 1878.

pohSi

and ambitious

slave, "who

by dint of roguery,

amassing property

ness, or frugality, has succeeded in sufficient to

along the

who

Usansi,

Here and

purchase two slaves.

is

in

as

bank_,

left

slirewd-

the case

of

there,

Makoko

the son of another Makoko,

who

of

died

a wealthy and powerful lord over a large acquired territorv,

suzerain

native

a

may

be

whose

found,

nominal power extends over an area approaching to a

whom

thousand square miles, to respect and obedience

is

a certain

amount of

shown by a large number of

Buguku of Uburna is another instance suzerainty. Even this forra of power, how-

village chiefs.

of a like ever,

is

only a tacit acknowledgment of seniority in

rank, like that which

is

shown by

a wealthy merchant

in Eno-land according due precedence to the scion of

On

a noble house.

the right

bank of the Congo may

Manipambu

be found two or three superior chiefs.

Loango, and Mpumu-Ntaba of Mbe' the

Makoko

so

prominent in

—the

of

successor of

jJulJic notice lately

—and

Samuna, the chief of Nsanda, near Yivi.

The agents

having

of the Inteniational Association

made over 400

treaties

with the native chiefs on both

banks of the Congo, whose sig-natures number over 2000,

perforce

and had

to

distribution

became acquainted

these

facts,

conduct themselves accordingly in the of the

payments made by them.

these cmious groups of chiefs there

knowledged

witli

senior, who,'

is

always an ac-

although his rank

undisputed, has only the privilege

of

Over

may

be

demanding a

superior consideration for his favour, sometimes of a

SUBDIVISIONS OF KINGDOMS. very

trifling

amount

;

but the smallest chief has

quently the power of stopping a bargain to consideration

19

if his

fre-

claims jSScai condition.

have been disregarded or neglected.

In the following chapters will be found, a detailed

account of the proceedings with the various chiefs with

whom may

I

had a personal intercourse, by which the reader

perceive into

what

infinitesimal

subdivisions

of

power are distributed those powerful kingdoms whose splendours Lopez, Merolla and. others loved to describe

two and three centuries ago.

c 2

ists.

TEE CONGO.

20

CHAPTER THE SEQUEL TO THE BOOK,

'

III.

THROUGH THE DARK

CONTINENT.'

My

—Met by King Leopold's — The King's proposition—Fatigue and an unavailing search for repose — Three weeks in Switzerland — Nego" " ^^^lat was to be character tiations for the new enteri^rise — —King Leopold's invitation to Brussels The meeting there in December 1878 — The " Comitu d'Etudes du Haut Congo " formed Final prei^arations for the journey — Again ea route to Africa.

return from the " Dark Continent " in 1878

Commissioners at Marseilles

its

"

How

often have

we

seen some such adventurer, and

?

much censured

wanderer, light on some outlying and neglected i)rovince, the hidden treasures of

which he

till

the

completed, thereby in these his seemingly aimless rambles planting

new

The

"

new

Thomas

habitable colonies."

Carhjle.

Dark Continent " bad been traversed from

January. Europe,

and kept proclaiming

discovered,

was

standards and founding 1878.

first

general eyes and effort were directed thither, and the conquest

.

,

to west, its great lakes, the

\

.

.,

ictoria

east ,

JMyanza and the

Tanganika, bad been circumnavigated, and tbe Congo

Kiver bad been traced from

Ocean

!

Tbe members

Nyangwe

to tbe Atlantic

of tbe late exploring expedition

had been taken to tbeir bomes, tbe living bad been vv^ortbily

rewarded, and tbe widows and orphans bad

not been neglected.

Wben

I finally

reached Europe in January 1878,

slowly recovering from tbe effects of famine and fatigue

endured on tbat long journey,

little

did I imagine tbat

KING LEOPOLD'S PROPOSITION.

21

year I should be preparing

before the close of the

another expedition for the banks of that river on

which we had

But

suffered so greatly.

at Marseilles

railway station, as I descended from the express just arrived from Italy, two Commissioners from His Majesty the

King

was two hours

before I

King

It

II.,

met me, and

was made aware that

older I

Le'opold intended to undertake to do something

substantial assist

Belgians, Le'opold

of the

for

Africa,

and that

was expected to

I

him.

would be needless

Any

to describe ray feelings.

person acquainted with what

I

had

so recently under-

gone can well imagine the reluctance with which

I

listened to the suo'O'estion that I should return to the

scene

of

so

much

disaster

and

though

suffering,

heartily as^reed with the Commissioners that

great and a good

work

perform, and that

it

King was

that the

would be a great pity

occurred to thwart his good intentions. willing to give details

and

best advice,

lead under

"as

its

if

anything

was

I

quite

right

proper organisation, which would

management

for myself," I said,

a successful issue

to

"I am

that I should personally conduct

so sick

it.

Six months hence,

I

})resent I

cannot think of anything more

and

should view

things

and weary

any suggestion

perhaps,

Even

inclined to

to furnish those

that I cannot think with patience of

rest

was a

necessary for the complete equipment of an

expedition, and

but,

my

it

I

differently

;

but

tlian a

at

long

sleep."

a personal visit to His Majesty I was unable to

i878.

£m.one.

TEE

22 1878.

Europe.

COy'GO.

and

pay, being utterly unfit, Utterly out of order

my

system so

entire

and, had I sought medical advice,

;

no doubt that needful

and quiet which

rest

I

so

from

all

ardently desired would have been prescribed.

But good

and

food, comfortable shelter,

relief

anxiety and strain of the mind, were doing wonders for

my emaciated frame dually I

The '

and half-ruined

was persuaded by my publisher was that by the end of

result

Through the Dark

hands, and for the

—

time in

first

May

to begin work.

the book, called

was in the

Continent,'

Gra-

constitution.

many

printer's

years I

felt free

move, to act as I pleased, unrestrained by

free to

pledges or promises, and without that terrible, compelling and oppressive law

and

persistent call to action,

Lightened of

all

neighbouring

my

which in

had seen

But was

so

first

paid,

them.

that

many

my

I hastened

head.

to

the

indulge in that luxury

thousands doing

—

viz.,

long-deferred visit to

I there learned that,

fit

time,

Happily

for

A wise man

is

me

still

to

it

my

know,

was not

Le'opold II. lie

had not

His Majesty

still

fully infoimed

to attempt to realise

imraediate,

and

my

own.

he who knows how

best advantage.

Eang

and when he was

was necessary

lounging.

though

to realise his intentions.

loved liberty was

to

my

travels through Em'ope, years before, I

purposed, at a all

to

constant

its

hanging over

cause to labour,

continent

and

commenced

of

—duty — with

to use his liberty

Unfortunately, though I had in-

dulged in luxurious reveries while imprisoned within the rocky caiion of the Congo, and

banqueted bHss-

THREE WEEKS IN SWITZEELAXD. fully

on thoughts of how

once free from work,

should enjoy myself

I

a hermit,

wilderness, could scarcely be

issuing

when

from some

more innocent than

the art of enjoying one's libert}-. others from

23

America and England,

I of

Like hundreds of thought the art

I

lay in dressing a la mode, sipping coffee with indolent attitudes

on the flagstones of the Parisian boulevards, or

and Strasburg beer

testing the merits of Pilsen

declining health and increasing

me

that these

were

loss of time, health,

Some Dieppe

friends

but

;

my

moody

and

but

my

informed

spirits

vanities, productive of

;

nothing but

usefulness.

suggested

Trouville,

Deauville,

wretchedness increased.

I explored

those famed seaside resorts, and discovered that I

getting more and more unfit for

what

or

my

was

neighbours

called civilised society.

A friend finallj' suggested Switzerland— and I obeyed Three weeks in

the hint. to health

;

and

I

this hapi3y land restored

then understood that

all this

time I did

but that three weeks of pedestrian

not need

rest, quiet,

exercise,

even in England, would have shaken

morbid

feelings,

shattered

constitution,

had ever been in Africa.

" liberty "

became insipid and

to forjret

^Yitli restored healtli,

joyless, that luxury of

lounging which had appeared desirable to an lated

off those

and wrecked

svstem, and would liave enabled me almost that I

me

ill-regu-

and unhealthy fancy became unbearable.

With

such views, a letter from one of the Commissioners, requesting an interview, and appointing a meeting in Paris,

was very acceptable.

ists. June.

Europe.

THE CONGO.

24 1878.

from

It is

.'"'..

Europe,

"t^^^-t

which took place in August,

this meeting,

August.

I clatc the

formation of the project of the

np the Congo.

enterprise

For

as yet

first

was only

it

generally understood that, as the Congo was explored,

and the core of the Dark Continent

accessible

somethhvj ought to be done to render

it

the humanities

roadless regions fatal to all good-doing.

my

concurred in the proposition that

Congo had opened a highway possible to utilise

way ?

enterprise

AVljat

what character

Congo

to the

Shall

commercial

lanthropic,

once

?

shall a

on a railway

Congo

?

it

it

high-

this

In

?

be purely geographical, phi-

Or

?

shall

we adventure

its

at

lower to the upper

Each question was discussed

The

were

expedition be despatched

To a purely geographical

results.

descent of the

to utilise

to join the

one great objection was

by

All readily

be undertaken

shall

new

around

into Africa,

But how

it.

it,

serviceable to

encompassed

were

that

by

in its order.

or exploring exjoedition

great expense with meagre

names of

addition of a few dozens of

native villages, the outlining of a few small streams,

the defining of a few ranges of

hills,

and the

insignificant districts, with a chapter or

customs of races of people to one another,

who

are

limits of

two upon

more or

local

less related

from the sea to the Kwa, did not appear

to be sufficient results to

were

warrant the expenditure of

to be a purely philanthropic enter-

£20,000.

If

prise, its

magnitude would depend entirely upon the

means that

it

a society

A commercial

would consider

to lie at its disposal.

enterprise should also be on a grand scale

THE CEARACTER OF THE EXPEDITION. to ensure success

otherwise

;

it

25

were useless to attempt

i87s.

August.

long established on the lower river,

to rival the traders

while the services of a peculiar body of Europeans initiated into the mysteries of ledgers

would have sufficient

to be secured,

and

it

and double entry

was very doubtful

if

a

number could be obtained who were acquainted

with the Congo languages and manners and customs,

and possessed

stamina to resist the

sufficient

vicissi-

tudes of the climate.

To

create a railway for over 200 miles

through a

little-known country would require a preliminary sur-

vey of the land through which

An

line should run.

it

was proposed the

exact knowledge would have to

be gained of the laws which governed the natives proprietary rights along the protection,

if

its

proposed course

;

;

of

and of

any, which could be guaranteed by

the native chiefs to such a road.

All these questions

were subjected to a very searching analysis, and

esti-

mates laboriously made of the expense that would be likely to attend his

any

effort,

and the Commissioner, with

voluminous papers, returned

to Brussels to lay

them

before His Majesty.

Meantime September, October and November were passed by me, sometimes lecturing on Africa, in respond-

ing to numerous requests for ideas upon the African continent

relating

to

other projects in

embryo from

Manchester and London, and in maintaining a constant correspondence upon topics upon which the Commissioner at Brussels wislied to have a

Early in November 1878

little

I received

more

light.

an invitation

Em-ope.

THE CONGO.

26 1878.

to

be at the Royal Palace in Brussels at a certain

November. Euroi>e.

^^^c and hour.

t

i

Punctual to the time, I there discovered

various persons of more or less note in the commercial

and monetary world, from England, Germany, France, Belgium, and Holland, and presently we were

all

After a few minutes

into the council-room.

ushered

it

trans-

pired that the object of the meeting was to consider the best

way

of promoting the very modest enterprise of

studying what might be made of the Congo River and its

basin.

how much

This body of gentlemen desired to of the

Congo River was

by light-draught

vessels

know

actually navigable

Wliat protection could

?

friendly native chiefs give to commercial enterprises

Were ligent

along the Congo sufficiently intel-

the tribes to

?

understand that

would be better

it

for

their interests to maintain a friendly intercourse with

the whites than to restrict

it ?

or imports, if any, would be chiefs for right of

way through

What

tributes, taxes,

levied

by the native

their country

?

What

was the character of the produce which the natives would be able

to

exchange

for

European fabrics?

Provided that in future a railway would be created

to

Stanley Pool from some point on the lower Congo, to

what amount could

this j^roduce

of the above questions were others were

not.

It

be furnished

?

Some

answerable even then,

was therefore resolved that a

fund should be subscribed to equip an expedition to obtain accurate information

assuming the name and

Haut Congo."

;

title

A portion

the subscribers to the fund

of "Comite d'Etudes du

of the capital amounting to

THE WOBK OF THE EXPEDITION.

27

£20,000 was there and then subscribed for immediate

ists.

November, rise.

Europe.

A series of resolutions subscriber

was drawn up by whicli every

bound himself

answer each

to

further funds were necessary.

call

A president,

when

secretary,

The expedition was to be immediately organised and equipped, and I was and treasurer were appointed.

lionoured with the charge of

and

to effect the object for

constituted.

was

I

its

personnel and materieU

which the committee was

to erect stations

according to the

— after due — for and future

means furnished along the overland route consideration of their eligibility

utility

the convenience of the transport, and the European staff in charge, to establish steam-communication w^herever

available

and

The

safe.

dious and sufficient for to be

made on them.

enough was

stations w^ere to be

all

By

commo-

demands that were lease or purchase,

likely

ground

to be secured adjoining the stations so as

become self-supporting

to enable tliem in time to

if

the

dispositions of the natives should favour such a project.

If

it

were expedient

adopted for the

also,

traffic

land on each side of the route

was

to be purchased or leased, to

prevent persons ill-disposed towards us from frustrating tbe intentions of the Committee through sheer love of

mischief or jealousy.

Such acquired land, however,

might be sublet

to

who would agree

to abstain

any European,

at a

nominal rent,

from intrigue, from inciting

the natives to hostility, and from disturbing the peace

of the country.

In brief, during this and subsequent meetings every

THE CONGO.

28

harmony and good-

1878.

2:»lan

that could teud to promote

Europe,

Will,

and nisure a peaceable and thorough

made

the experimental efforts about to be

known country was

in a

little-

The

chari-

and philanthropic character of the resolutions

table

clearly

even

discussed and formed.

for

trial

showed whose hand and mind had formed them,

if I

had not had the honour of learning the

senti-

ments of the Royal Founder of the enterprise from his

own

lips at private audiences.

The

first

meeting assembled on the

25tli

November,

1878, at the Ko^'al Palace of Brussels, at which Colonel Strauch, of the Belgian

Army, was

elected President of

Haut Congo and

the society called Comite d'Etudes du

my

first

tion

;

instructions to begin organising the Expedi-

du Haut Congo were written

meeting, held on December

9, I

At

out.

the second

was requested

to

all

the plans and estimates for expenses for the

six

months ready

The at

first

to be laid before a general council to

be held on the 2nd of January, as

had been unable

have

many

to appear at the

third meeting, held

of the

members

December meeting.

on the 2nd of January, 1879,

which there were present representatives of Belgium,

Holland, England, France, and America, was the final one,

when

sums voted.

the plans were adopted and the necessary

By

personally effect

the 23rd of January, all that I could in

EurojDe

was accomj)lished

while the steamer Albion, of Leith expedition

—was steaming

— chartered

;

for the

to the Mediterranean, I

hurrying through France and Italy proceed to Zanzibar to enlist as

to

and

was

meet her,

many

of

my

to

old

FINAL ABRANGEMENTS. comrades as might

be willing to try their luck on .

.

my

Daring

great river agani.

the

29

absence on the

East Coast of Africa advantage could be taken

by

the builders of the steamers, lighters, and steel whaleboats,

by the

makers

of

portable

wooden

houses,

corrugated iron stores, wagon-makers, and provisionpackers,

complete

to

and by the time Zanzibar, the

I

they had received

the orders

should accomplish

larger

my

mission at

steamer Barga, also chartered,

would no doubt have arrived

at the

Congo, and have

discharged her passengers and her cargo of expeditionary material.

The following

letter,

dated London, January 7th,

1870, to Mr. Albert Jung, a director in the present

Afrikaansche Handels-Yenootschap

—successor

Afrikaansche Handels-Vereeniging

— then

of the great Iviver, will

and

Dutch Company

at

chief agent

Banana Point, Congo

perhaps better serve to explain the measures

objects briefly described above

"Dear

of the

:

Sir,

"I

am infonnccl that you arc already partly aware of what is about attempted by a number of gentlemen in Holland, Belgium, France, England, and America, who have formed tljemselves into a commission to be

called the less

'

Comite d'Etudes du Haut Congo.'

heard that I

am

You have

selected as chief of the expedition

also doubt-

which

is

about

Congo under the auspices of the Committee. " Before proceeding with the request which I have to make to you, with your kind permission I will endeavour to explain luore clearly what tlie Committee have in view.

to set out for the

" \Vithin the vast basin

the Congo there

is

known

in geographical i)arlance as the basin of

a vast field lying untouched by the European merchant,

and about three-fourths unexplored by the geographical explorer. For tlie most i)art it is i)eoj)led by ferocious savages, devoted to abominable cannibalism and wanton murder of inoffensive peoi)lc; but along the

i879. Jamiavv.

Eurofc.

THE CONGO.

30'

1879. January,

Europe,

numerous amiable European merchant, ^nd hasten to him with their rich produce to exchange for Manchester cloths, Venetian beads, brass wire, hardware and cutlery, and such other articles as generally find favour with the Africans in your vicinity. Their manners are gentle, and their instincts are entirely for trade. Hitherto, however, they have been unable to benefit themselves by commercial relationship with the white man, such articles of European manufacture having arrived only after a tedious process and the lapse of many months, perhajDS years, among them, because between them and the coast extends a broad belt of country inhabited by warlike tribes and turbulent natives, who are not only accustomed to tax heavily all articles boiand for the interior, but to often lay violent hands on the almost defenceless wayfarer. Having on a successful journey, which terminated last year, studied the problem of uniting the amiable tribes above in close trading relationship with European merchants, and obtained the clue to the mode of putting great river towards the Livingstone Falls there dwell tribes

who

'wonld gladly embrace the arrival of the

into practice this idea for the benefit of the

whom

I

many kind

met above, and such merchants as we may be

the business, I

am

on the eve of having

my

African friends

able to interest in

anticipations realised.

You

must know that not many hours' joui'ney from Boma to the confines of the Babwende territory the road is rendered unsafe for the more amiable jieople above by the turbulent and rapacious petty chiefs who dwell along the route, and whose number is legion. These would be a great obstacle

me

to

also if I did not avail

myself of varioiis roads which penetrate

through the unpeopled wilderness, my explorations through the country having given me such a general knowledge of the interior that I shall be able to pass by these chiefs unmolested and I have perfect confidence that if I live a road will be found both practicable, easy, and safe for the ;

natives of the upi^er regions to visit the lower station with their produce. This, as

you must know, would materially assist us in j^lanting the benefits commerce among them, and opening the great heart of Africa,

of legitimate

with

its

various productions, to the enterprise of Europe.

It cannot be

done, however, without great tact, patience, long-suffering, and winning

The many made blood-brotherhood with the chiefs above will stand good stead now and whatever virtue is required to realise my

manners, even with the friendly peoj^les of the upper regions. times that I have

me

in

anticipations

;

and

to effect the objects the

Committee have in view,

shall

be thoroughly practised. "

You will observe from the above remarks that our purpose is threefold

that they are philanthropic, scientific, and commercial.

They

are philan-

inasmuch as our principal aim is to open the interior by weaning the tribes below and above from that savage and susjDicious state which they are now in, and to rouse them up to give material aid voluntarily. "When we shall have shown them that the white men near the sea wait to extend a courteous welcome to the dark strangers from the interior, that

thropic,

LETTER TO MR. ALBERT JUNG.

31

is not beset by diflBculties and and harm, the j)roblem is solved, and it may then be left to the white men to expedite matters by creating a more rapid means of communication, or to time to ripen the good seed that we shall have sown. At any rate I doubt that the road thus created by mutual goodwill and mutual confidence will ever again be closed.

the road between the sea and their country

trouble, Texation

"

Our

i^urpose

is

also scientific, because

we intend

to

make a

systematic

survey of that country lying between the Stanley Pool and Boma, either

on the north or the south side of the Congo, and to determine with exactitude the positions of all important towns and villages, and all i^rominent points which shall be of interest to the geographer

we

and the merchant.

how may venture into commercial relationship with the tribes above, by inviting them to exchange such products as they may possess for the manufactured goods of civilised states. We may thus obtain valuable "

Our aims are commercial

also,

because

intend to experiment

far people

statistics,

which

and and shall be able to note well we come in contact.

shall be a guide to future merchants, of the nature

cxuantity of African produce in the interior,

the general disposition of those with whom " Yet on the threshold of the enterprise

we

are encountered with the

serious necessity of providing ourselves with suitable

may

men

in

whom we

repose a confidence that the mere sight of a drunken chief will not

dissipate at once our hopes,

and have hoped

and destroy those dreams we have cherished

to realise.

" After a conversation with ^Messrs. Kcrdyck

&

Pincofis,

who

are greatly

you must be aware, I have been requested and advised to apply to you, and this I do witli the greater confidence that I already have had the honour and pleasiire of an interview with you in London. " While I set out for Egypt and the East African Coast to collect a few trusty men, you could materially assist me by collecting a number of Kruboys or Krumaners, from 75 to 130 men, by hiring them from the chiefs for a given time, with the promise of either renewing the contract, or returning them to the chiefs according to such agreement as you may make with the chiefs or with the people themselves, and engaging for me from twenty to thirty or forty Kabindas at such wages as you deem just, and in accordance with the custom of the West Coast. " Messrs. Kcrdyck and Pincoffs have also spoken to mc about a younggentleman who is at present engaged in your establishment at P>anana Point, and I believe and hope that they will write to you about him. If it is quite decided that he accepts office under me, will you kindly instruct him what to do. He could assist you materially in looking after those men whi^m you engage for me if no Kabindas sufficient could 1)0 collected at Banana itself, he might go personally to Kabinda, I'^irc, and do valuable service liy collecting all that he could induce to accept such wages as you may offer. And whatever contracts you may make in my name it would interested in these plans of ours, as

—

^gyg January, Europe.

THE CONGO.

32 1879. January.

Europe.

and simple as possible, to prevent misyou can collect 150 men of all classesKabindas and others for me by the time I have arrived, you -will have done me and the Committee also a most important service, "wliich they •would be bound to acknowledge. "I may very probably arrive at the Congo about the beginning of August, i)erhaps before, if all goes well, where I shall hope to find you and thank you in person for the favour that I hope you shall have done as well to have

^^6

them as

iTnderstanding in future.

clear

If

—

me.

for

" I have not by any means, I

am

well aware, exhausted this subject or

others that I might have enlarged upon, but I

know that

I

am

addressing

a gentleman of large experience with Afi-ican customs and manners, and one who will be able to fill up the lack of sufiicieut detail with his o"«^l

ample stock of good common sense and profound and wide knowledge of what ought to be done. " ^Meantime until my arrival various things will be shipped to your care, which I beg you to store for me in your store-rooms, and such gentlemen who come in my name pray receive as hospitably as your circumstances will warrant, and your knowledge of their condition in a sti'ange land will suggest. I need not have touched upon that, for the Congo merchants, as I

know from

experience, are always ready to extend hospitality.

Any

any duty that you may incur for me, or in my behalf, I shall gladly repay, but your goodness and your compliance with the above favoui's that I have asked of you would be above recompense, yet by far of greater value, which I shall leave to good fortune to enable me to show exxtense in

my never-dying gratitude. " Please commimicate the details of this letter to Mr. deBloeme; and

you

it

would be as well to suggest that until my arrival such persons as have no interest in knowing of our business it would be as well not to communicate our affairs to them. " Present my best respects to Mr. de Bloeme, and believe me, dear Sir,

" Faithfully yours, (Signed)

'-'Hexby M. Stakley."

FOUNDATION OF THE ASSOCIATION.

CHAPTER

33

lY.

THE AFRICAN- INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION.

—

Foundation of the Association "Withdrawal of the English members General Sanford's description of the Association My first relations with the International My instructions to M. Cambier Karema, a

—

—

station^My instructions

prosjierous

propositions for the organisation of an

Zanzibar— The

The

— Expedition — Farewell

Popelin— Draft

to Captain

SS. Albion starts on her long voyage.

foundation of the African International Association

took place while I was Africa.

I

am

still

in the heart of equatorial

therefore obliged to have recourse to the

printed accounts of

its

formation, and from the Royal

Geographical Society's ^Proceedings' of July 1877 quote the following "

of to

The

I

:

fresh impulse to African exploration originated in the Conference

at Brussels,

on the 12th,

^Majesty the

King

graphers of

tlie

13tli,

and llth of September

of the Belgians invited a

chief nations of Europe.

number

which His

last, to

of the leading geo-

Eeju'esentativcs from

Germany,

Austro-Hungary, Belgium, France, Great Britain, Italy and Russia were present at the Conference, and, as a result of their deliberations,

agreed that an International Commission, having

its

it

was

seat at Brussels,

should be founded for the exploration and civilisation of Central Africa,

and that each nation willing

to co-operate should

form National Com-

common object, and send delegates thus centralising as much as possible tlio efforts

mittees to collect subscriptions for the to the

Commission

made, and

;

facilitating

by co-operation the execution of the resolutions of

the Commission. "

Belgium was the

first

to establish a National Committee, the

bers of which assembled under the presidency of the

November, 187C.

VOL.

I.

At

tliis

mem-

King on the Gth of

meeting the statutes were formulated and

D

1877 July. Brussels.

THE CONGO.

34 1S77.

July l>nissels

agreed

to,

the preamble of whicli set fortli that the Committee was con-

stituted for the purpose of carrying into effect, within tlie limits of Belgium,

the the

programme '

of the International Conference,

which was stated

to be

repression of the slave-trade and the exploration of Africa.'

Committee made an appeal

The

to the Belgian public for subscriptions,

with

considerable success. " In England, when the organisation of a similar Committee came to be discussed, difficulties of an obvious nature were foreseen, it

which rendered

desirable that such a Committee, whilst maintaining friendly relations

of corresi^ondence with the Belgian and other Committees, should not

trammel

itself

with engagements of an International nature, or with

objects other than those connected with geography. this decision; delegates

In consequence of

have not been appointed to the International

Commission at Brussels. " Germany. In resi^onse to the views of the Brussels International Conference, a National Committee was formed at Berlin who decreed, on the 18th of December, 1876, the establishment of the German African Society, the functions of which will be to carry out the same objects as the International Commission, viz. 1, the Scientific exploration of the

—

:

unknown

regions of Central Africa

to civilisation

and commerce

the slave trade.

The

:

and,

:

2,

the oi^ening-up of Central Africa

3, as, iilterior object,

affairs of the Society are to

the extinction of

be administered by a

Council, of which Prince Henry YII. Eeuss is the president. Dr. George von Bunsen the secretary, and Dr. Nachtigal, Hcrr Delbriik, Dr. A. Bastian, Dr. Herzog, Baron von Eichthofen, Dr. Pioth, and Dr. W. Siemens, the members. The Society will maintain relations with the International Commission at Brussels, and have appointed Dr. Bastian, Dr. G. von Bunsen, and Baron von Eichthofen as German Delegates. " The Society is to consist of Foiuiders and Members, the former comprising those who contribute a donation of 300 marks to its funds, the all latter to include all annual subscribers of five marks and upwards corporations, chambers, and scientific societies to bo admissible in their corjDorate capacities as members, on payment of proportionate sub-

—

scriptions. ''

As

to the disposal of the

funds accumulated by the Society,

it

has been

decided that only a portion of the yearly income shall be contributed to the International Commission, the remainder and greater part being set

German undertakings of discovery and exploration in Africa. Like the Belgian Commission, a leading feature of the German operations will be the foundation of stations in the interior of Africa, which are to apart for

serve partly as bases of operations for travellers, and partly as centres for

the spread of civilisation and commerce. " Belgium. The 'International Commission of the African Association

—

'

met, on the invitation of the King of the Belgians, at Brussels on the 20th and 21st of June last His Majesty presiding. Delegates from all the ;

NATIONAL COMMITTEES.

35

nations represented at the Conference of September 1876 attended, with the exception of Great Britain and Eussia, the National Eussian

Com-

mittee excnsing the absence of their delegates on the ground of their

much

lieing

occupied with work intrusted to them by their Government.

Delegates from the Netherlands attended

tiie

meeting

for the first time.

Various subjects of detail were discussed during the two-days' sittings

;

amongst them the choice of a flag for the Association, and the question of procuring reductions of passage-money and so forth, in favour of members of expeditions, from the various steamboat and trading companies connected with African seaports. With regard to this latter subject, it was announced by Signor Adamoli (Italian delegate), that the Italian Government had made a stii^ulation in its contracts with navigation companies tliat

passages at a reduced rate shall be granted to

A

scientific expeditions.

all

members

of

Netherlands delegate (M. Versteeg) also an-

nounced that the directors of the Afrikaansche Handels-Yereeniging to Eotterdam had agreed to convey baggage intended for the various expeditions free of charge, and to grant hospitality in their factories to the

members '•

A

of the expedition.

statement of the financial position of the Association at this date

was read by the secretary, by which it appeared that the Belgian National Committee had already paid over to the Central Commission 287,000 francs in donations, and 44,000 francs in annual subscriptions, totals which tlie Committee has lu'omised to increase during the current year by 11,000 francs and 58,000 francs respectively. The donations and a portion of the annual subscriptions are to be invested, and the interest only expended in the objects of the Association in this way, according to the calculation ;

of tlie treasixrer, 73,000 francs will be at the disposition of the Executive

The immediate commencement of operaand an expedition is to be despatched l)y way of Zanzibar towards Lake Tanganika, with the object of establishing stations either at the lake itself or at certain points beyond it, and also of sending explorers who will make the stations their bases Committee

for the year 1877.

tions has accordingly been decided upon,

of operations. the Executive

Tlic drawing-up of detailed instructions is confided to Committee appointed to direct the oi)e rations of the

Association. " National

Committees to co-operate with .the Belgian International Commission are stated to have been found also in :

" France

.

.

.

President Count de Lesseps.

Austro-Hungary

„

Italy

„

.... Spain ....

„

Switzerland

„

.

.

... Ilullaud ... Portugal ... Eussia

„

„ „

The Archduke Eudolf. The Prince de Piedmont. His Majesty King Alfonso. M. Bouthchier do Beamout. The Grand Duke Constantine. The Prince of Orange. The Duke do San Januario.

D 2

1877. -' ^"^i"*^ *•

THE CONGO.

36 1877.

"

^'

" The Austro-Hungarian Committee has made a

first

contribution to the

funds of the Brussels Commission of 5000 francs."

Brussel

As

the Eno'lish had withdrawn from the Association

through a fear of trammelling themselves with engage-

ments of an international nature, the United States were invited to participate in this widespread geographical

movement, and a branch society was formed in York, with Judge Daly for President,

who was

wards succeeded by Mr. Latrobe, of Baltimore General H.

of the founders of Liberia.

who

as the

representative of the English-speaking

— in

Senate, dated

— one

succeeded in the place of Sir Bartle Frere races,

a letter to Senator Morgan, of the U.S.

March

24,

ciation in the following

"Dear

after-

S. Sanford, of

Florida,

describes

New

1884

—the International Asso-

words

:

Sir,

" In reply to your request for specific information as to the origin

and

objects of the International African ^Association, I have the

to state that it

owes

its

origin to the

King

of the Belgians,

who

honour in 187G

convened a Conference of distinguished African travellers of different nationalities at his Palace in Brussels in September of that year, to devise the best means of opening up to civilisation equatorial Africa. The result of this Conference, which recommended the establishment of stations, l^rovided for a permanent central organisation and branch organisations in other countries, was the convoking a Commission or Congress, which

met

at the Palace in Brussels in

June 1877, and at which delegates from

Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Spain, Switzerland,

and the United States were

present.

An Executive Committee — consisting

of three representatives of the English-speaking, Germanic, and Latin races, in the persons of

Henry

S.

Sanford of Florida, Dr. Nachtigal (the

African explorer) of Berlin, and M. de Quatrefages (of the Institute) of Paris, for these races respectively,

under the presidency of the King

means of carrying out the and determined upon.

confirmed, and the practical

—^was

objects of the

Association were discus.sed " These were, the organisation of a branch in each of the various states

Europe and in America, which should aid in attracting attention to and in founding hospitable and scientific stations, nnder the flag of the Association, which flag it was determined should be a blue

of

this work,

'

'

GENERAL CONFEDERATION. with a golden star in the centre.

flag

It

was

37

also decided to

commence

the founding of these stations on the East Coast, at Zanzibar, stretching

over to the lakes. " An extract from the proceedings, defining what these stations, destined to form a chain of posts from ocean to ocean, should be,

given as

is

best explaining the purpose of the Association. " JMiat a station should he. The Executive Committee receives from the

—

'

International Association entire liberty of action in the execution of the

following general dispositions for the foundation of scientific and hospit-

The personnel of a station is to consist of a chief and a rumber of employes, chosen or accepted by the Executive Committee. The first care of the chief of a station should be to jDrocure a suitable dwelling, and to ixtilise the resources of the coumtry, in order

able stations: certain

that the station " '

The

may

scientific

be self-supporting.

mission of a station consists, in so far as it

is

practicable,

and meteorological observations; in the formation of collections in geology, botany, and zoology in the mapping of the environs of the station in the preparation of a vocabulary and grammar of

in astronomical

;

;

the language of the country

;

in ethnological observations ; in reporting

the accounts of native travellers of the countries they have visited in keeping a journal of all events

"

and observations worthy of

;

and

notice.

The hospitable mission of a station shall be, to receive all travellers the chief shall deem worthy; to provide them, at their cost at the place, with instruments, goods, and provisions, as well as guides and interpreters to inform them as to the best routes to follow, and to transmit '

whom

;

their correspondence.

It will also be the

duty of a station to

insui'e as

rapid and as regular communication as possible from post to post between the coast and the interior. " One of the ulterior objects of the stations will be, by their civilising '

influences, to sujjpress the slave trade.'

" The result of this to say,

from Zanzibar

movement has been the opening up of a highway, so to Lake Tacganika, mostly with capital furnished

by the Belgians, the last of the stations being at Karema, on the lake, two of the intermediary stations being founded respectively by the French and German branches of the Association. " After .Stanley discovered the Upper Congo, in 1877, a branch of the International Association was formed the year following for special work on the Congo, under the name of the Comite d'Etudes of the Upper Congo, but under tlie flag of the Association, and special contributions for it

were made by

whicli the

King

of

]ihilantlu-o}iic tlie

friends of the Association.

This work,

Belgians has taken under his especial jiersonal and

financial protection, has developed to extraordinary proportions,

had

and

lias

opening-up to civilising influences and to the this vast, populous, and fertile region, and securing certain

for practical result the

world's traffic

destruction to the slave trade wherever

its flag floats.

The only

practical

1877. Brussels.

THE COXGO.

38 1877. Brussels,

difficulty in this

which

wonderful progress proves to be an unrecognised flag, be misunderstood or abused, and the people under it

is liable to

subjected to imiieiliments in their pliilanthropic

work on the part

of those

engaged in the slave trade, or for other selfish ends. " I have the honour to be, very resjjectfully yours,

"H.

S.

Sanford,

" Member of the Executive Committee of the International African Association."

It

was well known

Le'opold

II.

to

me

that His Majesty King-

was the Founder and President of the

African International Association, and also the Founder of the .society called Comite d'Etudes Avhicli later

became known

tion of the Congo,

du Haut Congo,

as the International Associa-

and that the two

societies

had the

same secretary and the same bureau, but both were kept distinctly apart, as the contributed funds

tributions

were entirely separate.

On

of the International Association no

and the con-

the Committee

Englishman

sat,

but on that of the Comite' d'Etudes du Haut Congo

Great Britain was represented by two English gentle-

men

well

prise

and

known

in commercial circles for their enter-

their benevolence

would have joined but

;

and many more doubtless

for an unfortunate incident in

connection with the chano-e of

name

of the Afrikaan-

sche Handels-Yereeniging of Rotterdam to that of the

Afrikaansche Handels-Yenootschap, for which change the Comite' d'Etudes du

Haut Congo was

in

no way

responsible.

The

first relations

that I

had with the African

Inter-

national Association were in consequence of a short letter of instruction received just as I

was on the point

of starting for Egypt to meet the Albion.

In

tliat letter

AN EXPEDITION IN I

was requested

DISTBESS.

39

to collect all information respecting the

Association's first Expedition, which

condition of

tlie

was reported

to be in distress

somewhere

in Mirambo's

country in Unyamwezi, in East Central Africa. report was true, I

was authorised

If tlie

measures

to take all

necessary for the rescue of the travellers.

my

In December 1877, on

from Western Africa, first

I

return round the Cape

had met the leaders of the

International Expedition at Zanzibar

my

after

travellers

arrival in

Europe

had succumbed

but soon

;

heard that two of the

I

to the heat

and the

indiscre-

which inexperienced men generally and uncon-

tions

sciously

commit

in tropic lands.

The command of

the

Expedition had afterwards devolved upon Lieutenant Cambier, into

who had

succeeded in taking his Expedition

Unyanyembe, and by some means had got

some

difficulties

into

with Mirambo, owing to engagements

of an entangling nature with a Mons. Broyon, a Swiss

known

travelling trader well

at that time

on the East

Coast of Africa.

The Albion duly arrived efforts I

made

to

and

the exact condition

elicit

engaged couriers

at Zanzibar,

to

after

many

of affairs,

convey the following

letter of

instructions to Lieutenant Cambier: "

" M. Cambikr,

Zanzibar, E.

C. A.

Commanding Expedition International Association.

" Sir, " I have been requested by His Majesty the Iviiig of the I'.elt^ians, and Colonel Htrauch, Secretary-General of the Association, on this my visit to Zanzibar, to give

my

best advice and,

you and your comrades in Africa. assisting you with my advice out

if

necessary, assistance to

I write this letter with the view of of the troubles whicli your letters,

Zauzil.mr.

TEE CONGO.

40

and those of Doctor Dutrieux, give me

1879. Zanzibar,

to understand

you are

in at the

present time.

"In

brief,

the difficulties under which you suffer, as I understand

them, are as follows "

:

Mirambo, King of Uramlx), Unyamwezi, and T^ecame his friend and ' blood-brother.' M. Broyoil, advancing towards Ujiji with the London ^lissionary Society's caravan, was met by you. Tou had left forty man-loads at Urambo but on witnessing Mirambo's seizure of over 30O loads of goods from the caravan of M. Broyon, you thought it dangerous to trust your person in the j^ower of Mirambo a second time, and accordingly fled with M. Broyon to TJnyanyembe, and you are now staying at

You

visited

;

company with the

Ta1x)ra, -nith the prospect of fighting 3ilirambo in

Arabs. " It is to be regretted that you at

any time prove

vi.sited

^Mirambo, not because he might

faithless to his friendly vows,

but because the Interand might have

national Society's objects did not Lie in that direction, .

been better secured on a more southern route. You, however, are not to blame for this, as I xmderstand that you received orders fi-om Baron Grendal to do exactly as you have done. "With your jjermission I shall

what the objects of the International Society are. The society wishes to establish stations between Nyangwe and the Ea.st Coast, along

briefly state

the best secured and most feasible route that

may

be found between

Bagamoyo and Ma-sikamba on the Tanganika Lake, and Mompara's on the Tanganika and Jvyangwe route.

Being an eminently

iaoffensive

and

philanthropic society, stations cannot be established by its officers or agents in exposed countries like those districts in the neighbourhood of

Unyamyembe, northern

or central Unyamwezi, but in localities removed as far as possible from the chances of strife, visits of Euga-Enga, invasions of barbarous

and powerful chiefs like ilirambo and Xyungu. Neither wisdom to establish any station in the iromediate neighbourhood of powerful Arab stations like Tabora or Ujiji, as the local ix>litics,

wotild

it

l:>e

manners, customs,

life,

and privileges of the Arabs

at these stations are

at variance 'nith the objects of a peaceful society like the International,

and a

too familiar intimacy with the slave-trading Arabs

would embroil

the agents and officers of the society in matters with which they have no concern.

" If the International Society can secure an honourable and peaceful

among inoffensive tribes, and a tolerably safe route Ijetween Masikamba and the coast (oriental) one of its first objects has been attained, and this should be done before attempting another step. In considering your situation, I perceive that you have the opix»rtunity of

footing

securing this grand success for the International Society, and were I in

your

2X)sition,

and possessing youi- advantages, this would be my first aim. of men, and means at least sufficient to attempt duty. In 1871, when affairs were in a far more desperate

You have abundance this essential

IXSTBUCTIONS TO

M.

CAMBIER.

41

condition than they are now, I left Unyamyembe for Ujiji with twentyfour Zauzibaris and a few score of native porters, succeeded in discovering Dr. Livingstone despite Mirambo's bandits and the hostility of the Arabs.

You, armed with

my experience, and

much more than

I

was enabled

assisted

by eighty Zanzibaris, can do

to do.

" M. DutaUs, of the second Expedition, which will shortly start, will of inclose you my credentials and the keen interest I take in the success ;

the International's operations are

my

my excuses for

thus intruding on you

advice.

".Sixty

armed men, bearing

loads,

and twenty ordinary pagazis arc

We

will suppose sufficient for the enterprise herein suggested to you. you have eighty loads, which ought to consist of forty bales of mixed cloths, principally

follows

:

Merikani and Kaniki, and forty loads of beads as

— " 12 bags of

10

„

12

;,

2

„

2

Sam-sam. blue Mutoonda. cowrie-shells.

white (Merikani) beads.

„

brown (Kadunduguru).

1

„

blue (Lungia) small.

1

„

i^ink

„

small.

40

you have not these goods in such proportion you will be able to procure at Unyanyembe, and if you have not the number of men supposed above you may enlist these also there. The goods for their advance pay should not be given from yoiu- provision or travelling stock, but from goods purchased for that piu-pose from the Arabs at Unyanyembe.

If

them

"

Your other loads should

consist of

"Tent

lload.

Cooking utensils

..

..

1

„

..

..

..

1

„

Ammunition

..

..

..

14

„

Miscellaneous

..

..

..

6

„

23

„

Bedding

making a

..

total of

"Cloth Beads Miscellaneous

40 40 ..

..

loads.

..23 103

„ „

„

These loads of material ought to support you and your Expedition at Masikamba on the Tanganika for three years, without stinting yourself or

18"9*

Zanzibar

THE CONGO.

42 1^70. Zanzibar.

men

of auy of the necessaries of

or

life,

any of the productions of Central

Africa whicli may be needful for comfortable sujiport. " I should advise you to commence organising at once this exj)editiou

manner that it cannot easily become demoralised or deterred You should leave M. Dutrieux from pursuing the plain ])ath of duty. at Tabora, for he, after your departure, can form another expedition, and in such a

t-ake position at

less

white

some

locality east of you; besides,

men you have

-with

it is

my belief that

the

this expedition the better it will be

you on

You need no companion nor help for this task you Avill march quicker, and all your people will jH-efer to be under one man rather than under two besides, you are simply for the interests of the International Society. ;

;

and to remain there you hear from Colonel Strauch. Before departure you, as chief, should command M. Dutrieux to collect a force of sixty men, to be held in readiness by him until he shall receive orders from Brussels, or shall hear

about to occuiTy a station in advance of

all others,

until

from some one here at Zanzibar entitled to send him his instructions, you should also see before your departure that M. Dutrieux has in his house " 30 bales of cloth.

10 bags of Sam-sam beads.

You should

instruct

2

„

Mutoonda

„

2

„

Merikani

„

2

„

Kadunduguru

1

„

Pink

1

„

Blue

him

that this

. I

(small)

\

is

beads.

...

„

a suj^ply against a sudden

demand

from some expedition, or a provision for himself when he shall have received his instructions from Brussels. This stock should not be drawn

on by him, but he should obtain his goods for the support of himself or men from a special stock i:)urchased for that imrpose. M. Dutrieux should also, while he resides at Unyanyembe, abstain from interfering in any local politics, and observe friendly intercourse with Arabs as well as natives.

" I enclose you a small chart of an excellent route from Tabora to your

Masikamba, on the Tanganika. Masikamba is about a month's I believe three Arabs have already located themselves there. The name of the village, I believe, is Karema, the chief of which is Masikamba. I advise you to organise and equip your expedition as above suggested, and take the road within ten days after the receipt of station,

journey from Tabora.

this letter.

"

On

arriving at Masikamlja you should endeavour to obtain the loan of

a canoe, and, manning

it

you might purchase one

with ten or

fifteen

large canoe from

men, proceed to Ujiji, where Moeni Kheri or Sultan Bin

IXSTBUCTIOXS TO

CAMBIEE.

21.

43

dollars, whicli you will amount on M. Grefulhe. You may then hii-e Wajiji sailors to take the canoe to Masikamba, you of By means of this canoe you Trill render coui-se accompanying them. yourself independent of the Arabs and natives, and have the means of crossing over to Mompara's, on the western side of the lake, when you are relieved by your successor, and you receive your instructions to move

Kassim.

You ought

good cauoe for 200

to get a

either pay in goods or an order for that

However eager you are west of the Tanganika, it would be westward.

to explore the interesting countries

mend you

you to abandon Masiwould strongly recomthen. Perhaps, when you

impolitic for

kamlia until your successor arrives there

and

;

not to abandon your station until

I

move west, M. Dutrieux will appear Tvith his caravan to you may proceed to Bambarre in Manyema, M. Dutrieux taking charge of Masikamba, and the duty of transporting you and your caravan to Mompara's or Uguhha. Then, when you have stationed yourself at Bambarre, after a few weeks M. Dutrieux will be relieved by Captain Poi^elin or 31. DutaUs, to allow him to relieve you while you proceed to Xyangwe. This mode of proceeding will secure for the Interreceive orders to

relieve you, that

national Society the folloTsing good stations

"

Nyangwe

commanded by

.

Bambarre Masikamba

.

.

„

„

„

„

^^^^y^^''

"

•

.Tiwe-la-Singa

Mpwapwa

or

,,

M.

Dutalis.

"I „

orPopeUn.

a French

officer.

i

another station \"

The International

yourself.

M. Dutrieux. (Captain Lamborel

-.r

"

:

"

'

Society will thus have secured a safe

and peaceful

route betweeii Xyang-we and Zanzibar, uninterrupted by Mirambo, Xyungu, or other barbarous chieftains, and the work of exploration and

philanthropy

may

then be said to have begim, and

fear of disasters, other than those caused

by

may

continue without

sickness.

" This letter of advice, as you will observe, refers only to the organisation of your expedition

and

request M. Dutalis,

more

whom I my

explicit concerning

and it has been written by King and Colonel Strauch. I shall

its destination,

the special request of His Majesty the

have brought with credentials

me

to Zanzibar, to be

and other minor matters which

will be of interest to you.

"

A

copy of this letter will be sent to Brussels to Colonel Strauch, who all herein written; but, meantime, I liojie that

T\ill

indorse and confirm

you

will perceive that it

would be prudent and wise

to act inmicdiately

in accordance with the advice given.

"I have only

to

add that I wish you the very

lx;st succe.ss in

tin's

i-ST^.

Zanzibar,

THE CONGO.

44 1879. Zanzibar.

and

you that the day you shall plant the flag of the Lake Tanganika, will have seen one brilliant success for this humane and philanthropic body, and that you will deserve and obtain an honourable recognition for your enterprise,

to assure

International Society at Masikamba's, on the

gallant service.

" I have the honour to be. Sir, "

Your most obedient "

(Signed)

It

may

was

safely received

and that he arrived

my mind

at the

for the station

know

by Lieutenant CamTanganika near the

Although the exact spot

locality specified.

in

Henry M. Stanley."

be a matter of interest to the reader to

that the letter bier,

servant,

I

had fixed

was not occupied,

still all

reports from the Tanganika, from successive chiefs of

the station, generally agree that

Karema

is

now

most prosperous condition, having served by

its

in a

pro-

mise of refuge at a distressed period to draw near friendly walls an increasing population,

Commandant

is

its

by which the

regarded as the umpire and arbiter in

matters that, without him, could only have been solved

by bloodshed and

spoliation.

The second International Expedition, which

set out

from Zanzibar under the command of Captain Popelin.

was

by me during

also organised

my

stay at Zanzibar.

Lieutenant Dutalis was initiated into the mode of that would have to be followed by

excursions which I as the rapids,

of

and

made up

life

him during various

the AVami, the Rufiji as far

to the island of Mafia,

and the port

Dar Salaam.

The following Popelin,

letters

commanding

and instructions the

second

to

Captain

Expedition,

may

CAPTAIN POPELIN's EXPEDITION.

45

prove of some service to intending explorers starting

from the East Coast

:

Zanzibar.

"Zanzibar, 2Imj "

Dear "

As you have been delayed longer than

my

1879.

originally projDOsed, I

may

you, having other very important and pressing

for

my own

business of of

im,

Sir,

no longer wait

perform

to

;

but in order to assist you to the utmost

power, as requested by the Secretary-General of the Association, I

have embodied some advice to you in the accompanying propositions which cannot fail, if followed, to contribute to the success of your exjiedition.

"

Beyond what the " propositions

Monsieur Grefulhe will

be."

able

" contain, I

to

have only to say that purchase the cloth, beads, and

wire mentioned in the list inclosed, and to see that they are packed and corded according to custom. If Monsieur Grefulhe is unable to do so from disinclination or other reason, a Hindi called Jetta Wali, known to the American consul, will be able to do so to your satisfaction.

" Monsieur Grefulhe can also enlist your thirty

three good lads,

make

" I should caution

sent to

Bagamoyo

contract,

"Wangwana and two or and pay them advance.

you

to

i^articularly that Monsieur Dutalis should be arrange with the Hindi Saywa respecting the

Wanyamwezi (100) and a house as soon as possible, and that he should him to Bagamoyo one boy, one cook, one cook's mate, and two or tlu'ce Wangwana with rifles to prepare for the reception of yourself and companions, Wangwana and stores. take with

" Three good donkeys, averaging in price from fifty to eighty dollars, should be purchased with their saddles and equipments for the Europeans, wliich should be sent to Bagamoyo with Monsieur Dutalis. " If you arrive before the 30th May, one week should be

enough

to

enable you to look about you at Zanzibar. Then the order should be given to Monsieur Grefulhe to begin enlisting Wangwana, and to i^urchase your stores. Three weeks should be enough for you to prepare and complete everything at Zanzibar, and about the 24th June next you should sail for Bagamoyo. At Bagamoyo you should muster yoiir pagazis,

you have more luggage than stated in Pere Oscar at Bagamoyo you with his vast experience, and any advice you may ask from

and give each his

load,

and

if

list,

pagazis should be secui-ed immediately.

will

assist

liim

will, I

"

By

am

sTiro,

1879. ilay 16.

be given at once.

the 10th July you should

l)e

in a state to leave

Bagamoyo

for

Sliamba Goncra, your first stjition or camp. " On arriving at Chunyu, one camp from Mpwapwa, be not tempted to take the southern route Ihimigh Ugogo, but

make

a direct

march across

THE COXGO.

46 1871'.

May

16.

Marenga Mkali, from 4 a.m. to 8 p.m., resting en ^ ^ ^^^ your camps tlirougli Ugogo should be "1st.

route

from 10.30

r.M. to

Cliikombo.

2nd. Itmnbi. 3rd. 4th.

Leehnmwa. Dudoma.

5th. Mwitikira. 6th. Zingeh.

7th.

Camp

in wilderness.

8th. Kitalalo. 9th.

Miikoudokwa.

Ou arriving near Jiwc la Singa, make direct west for Ugunda, leaving road to Unyanyembe on your right. There discharge your pagazis, and proceed with a few "Wangwana alone to Unyanyembe to procure ])agazis "

for the

Tanganika, either

Wangwana

" After obtaining your porters at

Mpokwa,

ten days

;

or Wanyamwezi. Unyanyembe proceed from Ugunda

to

thence to Masikamba's, on Tanganika, ten days.

" On arriving here you will be governed by such instructions may have received from the Committee and Colonel Strauch. " Bear in mind, please, that not one proposition here

is to

as

you

be followed

if

you suppose or know it to be conflicting with your orders from home. This advice, which I proffer to you, is only to be taken provided it is in harmony with your own official instructions. My sympathy with your work is a sufficient reason why I should trouble you with this note and advice. " You must be watchful and wary night and day; you must be patient Be kind to at all times, both with your white and dark companions. your blacks do not tease or worry them with unnecessary orders, but ;

such duties as are necessary, see that they are executed efficiently. " Construct a bush fence* round your camp each night after crossing the Kingani Eiver. Eush not into danger by any overweening confidence in your breech-loading

rifles

and military knowledge.

Be not tempted

to

try your mettle against the native chiefs, for you will certainly gain no

honour, but possibly you may rush to your own destruction. " Be calm in all contentions with native chiefs and one golden rule which you shoiild remember is, Do not fire the first shot,' whatever may ;

'

be the xjrovocation. " Eemember also,

when purchasing anything or paying tribute, that the demand nearly twice as much as they expect. This custom Ai-abs, Wangwana, and natives in Africa.

natives always refers to

which you have no interest. European companions disagree together, you should remember that if you take one side in preference to the other, you will have alienated the other's goodwill; as they are independent and iutelli"

Keep

'•'

Also, should yoiu-

clear of all squabbles in

*

Boma, or zareeba.

FBOPOSITIOXS FOB OBGAXISATIOX. gent enough to settle

own comfort and

it

among

themselves, suffer

them

to

do

47 so,

and yonr

" In order to ensure peace, each European should sleep in his own tent, and only meet at meal-times. Then disperse each man to his own tent or It is by the prolonged discussion of trivial matters, and unnecesduty. .sary conversation, that most quarrels begin, any course, therefore, that will prevent quarrels had better be followed. Banish from youi- midst all reports, sayings, &c., that one European might bring against the other for, even if true, it is evident that you cannot improve your condition by taking notice of them. If you allot each person his separate duty and see that it is done as chief of the expedition, in a calm and dignified manner, it will be clear to you that you have done all that you are in;

structed to do.

upon a "

would only provoke anger

It

to

maintain a discussion

plain matter of duty.

Yon

are all concerned in j^roving that the confidence of the Societe

Internationale was properly given to you, and

it

becomes a point of honour

with each Eui'opean to observe this faithfully. " I have now said all that I would gladly have told you in person

now is

;

all I

on your companions, white and dark, and on your enterprise, and subscribe myself can say

to devoutly wish God's blessing

" Faithfully yours, "

Henry M. Stanley.

"M. Captain Popelin, " Chief of the Second Belgian Expedition

to

Inner Africa.

" Pkopositions for the Organisation of the Second Expedition

TO Ujiji.

An

" 1st. 10(»

expedition to Ujiji ought to consist of thirty "Waugwana and

"Wanyamwezi.

' iiid.

The Wangwana may be obtained

at Zanzibar at

from |5

to

$G

per mouth.

"3rd. They should be well chosen, respectable looking, and in good Iioalth '

and condition.

The leader should observe carefully whether any of theWangwana

itli.

are suflfering from rupture, ulcers, dysentery, or whether they are slaves,

or eaters of opium,

"5th. The

if

so they should be rejected.

Wangwana

rVimblaine breechloading "

To each

Ilacii

five

should be armed with Snider, Kemington, or rifles.

in the Expedition should bo prepared 300 cartridges.

cartridge-box should be about thirty inches long, nine inches wide,

inches deep; lids should be screwed; box lined witli zinc or tin or

.soldered witliin, '•

rifle

air

and water-tight; box should not weigh, with cartridges

over sixty-five pounds.

Ivicli

white

man

1S7& :\r:iy

peace of mind will be thus secured.

should have a boy for gunbcarcr, at fi'om $2'50 to $o

16.

Zanzibar.

THE coy GO.

48 1879,

May

16,

Zanzibar.

If he is alone, then there Bhould be two or three boys. Such ^^ arriving in camp, will become tent-boys, waiting or messenger-

per month. ^^^y^,^

boys.

"

To

Wangwana

thirty

there should be four chiefs, the principal chief

and three sub-chiefs. " The principal chief should receive from $10 to $15 per month, and should Ije a respectable and exi:>erienced man. " The sub-chiefs should receive a dollar or two more than the privates of the expedition.

" Three weeks ought to be ample time for the organisation of an expedi"When it is decided to l;»egin organising, communication should be made with the Hindi Saywa at Bagamoyo about a house tion of this strength.

and the 100 "Wanvamwezi porters, and such arrangements entered into as Probably it would be best to arrange with the will secure good men. Hindi that, for the safe arrival of the "\i\"anyamwezi at Unyanyembe, so much i)er head should be paid to him. It would l>e far the safest plan. " If there are more than one white with this esx>edition, one should be detailed to attend to this last work at Bagamoyo, and should be competent to complete all these arrangements by the time that his friend at Zanzibar will have finished organising his party of Wangwana. " Fout days before departure, after seeing that all the cloth-bales are arranged jjroperly, corded, matted and corded over again, and numbered, with a comjjlete

list

of the various cloths contained in each bale entered

Wangwana

should be called up to sign the agreement, and more than three months pay in advance, before a consul, or a respectable merchant of Zanzibar as witness. "Two days li^fore departure from Zanzibar a sufficient number of Arab dhows should be secured to convey the Expedition, stores, goods, animals, &c., to Bagamoyo. On arrival at Bagamoyo everything should be housed carefully in the building already rented by the month by the gentleman who was detailed for this purjKjse. " If the Wanyamwezi have already been secured from Saywa, they should be mustered to receive their loads, and the day of the first journey menin a book, the to receive not

tioned to them.

" The

first

day's journey should not be further than to

three miles west of Bagamoyo. " The nest day should be a halt to see for the journey,

and such necessary

if

trifles

everything

Shamba Gonera,

is in

proper order

as the following should be

attended to

" 1st. Fifty rupees in silver should be kept as a reserve. " 2nd. Ten ten-dollars gold pieces should be kept in reserve. " 3rd. Twenty rupees in pice should

l^e

kept in reserve.

Xot less than five days' rations should be distributed in rice to the "SVangwana and Wanyamwezi, a day's ration l^ing a kubaba each^ or '•'

I2

4th.

lbs. jjer

man

j>er

day.

ATTENTIONS AT ZANZIBAR.

49

" 5t]i. 200 lbs. of rice should be conveyed for a reserve for tlie whites. " 6th. All last wordswith the coast should be made at this place, because

would be impolitic to halt after moving from Shamba Gonera until three good days' journey have been made, because, besides consuming IH'ovisions heedlessly where j^rovisions are scarce, it would be offeringinducements to the weak-minded among the men to desert. " After the first three days' march halt one day, then make two days' journey and rest. Thus make it alternately three days' march and one day's halt, then two days' march and one day's halt, as far as Mpwapwa. " At Mpwapwa halt three days, and distribute six days' provisions to each man. In Ugogo take the northern route according to my latest map. "All arrangements for tribute with the Wagogo suffer your chief to make, subject to your own approbation, always impressively advising him to it

endeavour to reduce the tribute as low as possible. " Your temper will be much tried in Ugogo, but in this land of clamorous, greedy and extortionate natives it will be your duty to remember that your

weapon against them is patience and good nature. Beyond Ugogo the road is tolerably free from trouble, and, as you will

best "

liave gained experience,

With

it is

unnecessary to give advice

proceed."

the above and various other missions, and the

enhstment of a

select

body of sixty-eight Zanzibaris

Congo Expedition, three-fourths

for the

how to

me

accompanied

across

Africa,

my

of

whom

had

time was fully

occupied.

The Sultan our

of Zanzibar

showed great kindness

new Expedition by loading

to

the store-rooms of our

steamer with abundance of provisions, while scores of fowls, geese,

and ducks, besides half-a-dozen

bullocks,

insured a considerable supply of fresh meat.

Captain Hathorne, the American consul, and Mons. Grcfulhc, a French merchant at Zanzibar, were most assiduous in polite attentions and profuse in their hospitality,

and towards the

latter part of

May

1879 the

steamer Albion departed on her long voyage to the liiver Congo,

by way of the Red Sea and the Mediter-

ranean, VOL.

I.

E

1879. ^^''^7

^^•

Zanzibar,

THE CONGO.

50

CHAPTER EN ROUTE

Y.

TO THE COXGO.

Bankruptcy of Dutch mercliants at the mouth of the Congo Letter to Colonel Strauch

— The

;

its effect

Expedition charged with being

— Groundlessness of the charge —My personal conduct iu at Sierra — Accident to the AWon —Compelled to Leone— An amusing misunderstanding— An old friend— Kind attentions — Arrival at the mouth of the Congo. mysterious

the matter

1879. Julv.

Zanzibar

As

I

^^^^^

call

Lave before related, the " Internationale AssociaAfricaine " was organised in 187G for

of erecting a line of stations

tlie

purpose

from the East Coast into

the interior, as far as the interest of their subscribed

fund would permit, for the benefit principally of such travellers as

might by reverses be compelled

back to recruit and renew their

The their

to

efforts.

" Committee of Study of the UpiDer Congo " by

very

title

only undertook the Congo River as the

object of their work.

There were several merchants

connected with the latter society nection with the other.

At

who had no

mate intention of embarking the reports from the

But while

I

was on

con-

the outset the latter had

separate and distinct objects in view, with the

if

fall

in a

ulti-

grander enterprise

Congo region were favourable.

my way

from Zanzibar to Aden,

the Dutch merchants possessing a large establishment

BANKRUPTCY OF DUTCH MERCHANTS. at the

mouth

of the Congo, having

embarked

51

in various

i879.

meet

Aden,

July.

projects

beyond their means,

failed at a crisis to

engagements, and consequently were declared

their

Had

bankrujDt.

establishment

this

great house been the solvent

was generally

it

credited

to

be, these

merchants would have been by no means unimportant factors in the tentative enterprise about to be begun.

On

arriving at Aden, however, I found a telegram

me

awaiting

declaring that the said Dutch merchants

had become bankrupts, and that one of the principal had

directors

fled to

tempted to commit

America, while another had

The presence

suicide.

at-

of these and

other merchants had given a commercial character to

the enterprise

;

and as the succeeding and more

stable

company, called the "AfrikaanscheYenootschap," which

was formed solicited

in place of the "

the committee

paid in by

its

to

Handels Yereeniging,"

refund the

subscriptions

predecessor, the committee availed itself

of the opportunity to return every subscription to the

merchants of

all nationalities

who had

previously ex-

pressed by their various subscriptions their sympathy

with the project.

There then remained connected with the " Committee of Study of the

Upper Congo" only

those

who managed

the affairs of the Internationale Association Africaine.

Hence the committee itself that

the

title

win'ch, be

the

at a later period,

having

satisfied

progress and stability were secured, assumed of " Association it

Internationale

du Congo,"

remembered, was originally started with

philanthropic motive of opening up

the (,^ongo E 2

THE CONGO.

52 1879.

Gibraltar,

and of exploring and developing, according to

basin,

the cxtcnt of

mcans, the resources oi the country

its

around each station as soon as

At

Gibraltar, I received

my

it

was founded.

final instructions,

which

bore of course considerable amendments to those I had originally received.

The following

letter will

prove

no doubt enlighten the reader as

this,

and

it

to the ideas

will also

which we

then entertained respecting our novel and unique enterprise before the expedition

of

labours

its

had arrived near the scene

:

" Dear Col. StkaucHj

GiBBALTAB, JvXy

—

8th, 1879.

" I have re-read your notes with care, and beg leave to remark

and in succeasive order :— The best means would be of obtaining from the Congo chiefs concessions of ground, with privileges of making roads, and reducing as much land under cultivation as we should be able to

upon them "

1st.

as follows,

Ton

say,

'

cultivate.'

" A footing cannot be made on the Congo without having first entered treaty with the cliiefs either for commercial or

into agreement or

This must be done with tact and generosity, Such privileges as all communications. grant to us must be paid for, and to meet all such exigences I

philanthropic purposes.

exercising large forbearance in

they

am

may

I entertain no fear that the natives will place any impediment in my way, and precaxitions will be taken to prevent suspicion and ignorance, aggravating either party in the proposed treaties, liberally provided.

to the destruction of our hopes.

As

the greatest danger falls to the share

of the pioneer, so the burden of cost generally falls of a

new

We

enterprise,

upon the promoter and the

are therefore prepared for the danger

cost.

" 2nd.

You

say,

'

The

stations should be occupied

by coloured men

freemen, under the superintendence of white men.' " Indeed with any person but a genuine freebom and free-living

man

nothing could be done in Congo Land, and I do not believe that in our direst extremity we should be wilhng to enlist the ser^-ices or place dei>endence in any person or i^ersons other than

"3rd. stations

You on the

chiefs

free.

would be wise to extend the influence of the and tribes dwelling near them, of whom a republican

say, 'It

LETTER TO COLONEL STEAUOM. eonfecleration of free negroes

might be formed,

independent except that the King, to

was due, reserved the right Europe.'

You

say also

'

whom

its

53

sucli confederation to

be

conception and formation

to appoint the President,

who shoukl

reside in

that a confederation thus formed might gTant

make good what they granted) to societies works of public utility, or perhaps might be able Liberia and Sarawak, and construct theu- own i^ublic

concessions (with j^ower to for the construction of

to raise loans like

works.' '•'

I expect a permanent influence for good upon the people of Congo Land

as a natural result of fair-dealing traffic at the various stations that

may

establish

we

that this influence will be extraordinarily extensive I do

;

not delude myself, for we labour according to our means only, and we have too many definite objects in view to deviate from our appointed path with the mere purpose of enlarging our influence around us. Yoii must remember that though oiu- path is long it will be for some time extremely narrow, and neither are oiu* present resources ample enough to justify oui' seeking to widen as well as lengthen our influence. Along

may rest assured that such influence as we may have will be due to our upright and strictly honourable commerce, or enterprise with such natives as may seek by self-interest oiir acquaint-

the line of our route you

ance.

We shall require

but mere contact to

satisfy all

and any natives own good

that our intentions are jjure and honourable, seeking their (materially

what

and

socially)

more than our interests. We go to spread and just intercourse with people who

blessings arise from amiable

have been strangers to them, I know the natives of Africa to this, and wise enough to wish to cultivate material good. For this reason I apprehend no fears, when once the

liitherto

be clever enough to appreciate all

stations are established, that they will seek to destroy

upon

fairness

and

strictest equity,

what we build we may do

but that for this good

them, they will immediately and at once form into a political confederation or imion for tlie general benefit I entertain trary, they will retain their

own

several chiefs, their

no hope

;

on the con-

own degraded customs,

be as jealous as ever of every tribal right, and resent every foreign own customs, or personal modes of life. If we were

interference in their

able to introduce a sufficient

number

of persons already inoculated with

European ways and manners as to form a balance of i)ower, I might then expect that the task would not be difficult by the influence of members and wealtli to bring the largest number of the tribes to acquiesce iu what was ordained for the general welfare. All we can hope at present in win suffrage to live and move about without fear of violence, by patience, good nature, loyal friendship, and honourable traffic. Whatever progress we may expect of them can only be made in its own good time. Man, of no matter what colour he is, is a slow creature, dull and incapable frequently of judging what is good for liimsclf, or unhesitatingly accepting another's judgment of what is best for him. Such

brief is to

1879. "'^"'^ ^• ^'"^''ilt-'*^*

THE CONGO.

64 1879.

July

8.

Gibraltar,

chiefs as "we

may

themselves, and

find en route

make

we miLst accept as the tribes appoint for we can of them by generosity and tact.

the most

i^q must subsidise the various that

it is for

own

their

each and separate, until they learn conform to what we wish. We must

chiefs,

interest to

endeavour to induce them to accept their neigh1x)urs as friends, on the ground that as they are our friends they must be their friends. It is a very simple policy, and one the African imderstands. " 4th. You say, This project is not to create a Belgian colony., but to establish a powerful negro state.' "I understand that there is no intention to establish a Belgian colony, but your other alternative is far more difficult. It would be madness for '

one in

my

position to attempt

it,

except so far as one course might

follow another in the natural sequence of things. leave

to observe for themselves

protection, comfort,

what

and care

granted, and whatever ^}e

we found them, and

the jtettj tribes as

is

acceptable.

I repeat we must leave

each

To such

and

all

as seek the

of the stations, a kindly refuge will be

may be done

to

improve their condition, such

will

given to the utmost of our power, with the utmost goodwill, with

;

view of not only consolidating the influence of the stations, but of improving our means of civilising such peoples as may come in immediate contact or relationshiio with us. " oth. To the following note I would reply that over the stations, or the

ground attached to the stations, the managers of the stations would have the moral right of considering themselves legitimate owners, and the natives would readily accede to this, as they are firm believers in the sajing that every man's house is his castle, and every man's land his own. " 6tli. You say, Each station should be a little commonwealth.' " So it will be, but you might go further and say that though each station is a little sovereign commonwealth, yet it is but part and parcel of a larger commonwealth, which is ruled over by the manager appointed by those who founded, promoted, and sustained the unique enterjirise. "I beg you, my dear Colonel, with these remarks which I havr appended to your notes at your own request, to believe me now as ever, '

" Yours very faithfully, (Signed) "

Hexey M. Stanley.

" Col. SxEArcH, " Hotel Eoyal, Gibraltar."

Following the preceding should

letter it is

make an explanation regarding

mystery

"

necessary that I the

•'

silence

and

which we were accused of maintaining about

our destination and intentions, as chagrined editors of

charctE of mystification.

55

journals and magazines about this time often indulged

m

some extraordmary guesses

f.

as to the nature ot

my

mission. It is

my

opinion that nothing could he more unjust

than the accusation that there was an intention of

COLONEL HTllAUCH.

mystifying anybody

"wlio

had a right to know the

olject of the expedition then I

on

its

way

to the

Congo.

have constantly asserted that the conduct of the

committee was singularly indiscreet in divulging intentions to so

many

its

representatives of nationalities as

1879.

July

y.

Gibraltar,

THE CONGO.

56 1879.

were present

That success was at

at the Conference.

Julys. Gibraltar.

*^^

attainable

doubtful

for

;

after the it

was well known

upon the circumstances

at all

was exceedingly

indiscretion

to those wlio reflected

that the so-called Greo-

graphical and Commercial societies were not intended solely to

advance geographical knowledge, but

also to

further the political interests of their Governments.

The Committee was informed of facts,

but yet

and without

To me,

as of other

members conducted themselves openly,

its

guile.

indeed,

it is

wonder that we were

a cause of

make

able to effect anything, even to

On

the Congo.

a

landing on

the Council there were five nations

represented, and a to

this

number of persons had been

for subscriptions

whom we

applied

discovered afterwards

entertained not the least sympathy with the projected

The

enterprise.

ought,

we

if

Comite

d'Etudes du Haut

Congo

hold the scales of reason justly, to be

censurable for their simple and credulous guilelessness, rather than for studious mystification.

At

the same time, I boldly declare that I personally

resorted to every method of withholding information

respecting

my

I wished

to succeed.

it

mission, for the very I

good reason, that

have restrained myself from

writing to dear and valued friends, because

dangerous

to the interests .of the

undertaken to perform.

It

was

work which

it

was

I

had

for this reason that I

maintained an absolute silence for several years respecting myself and aggrieved at

my

this, I

actions.

If

my

friends

still

feel

have the consolation of feeling that

ACCIDENT TO THE ALBIOX.

my

conscience

regret

I

is tliat

my

approves

still

know

action

57

and

;

my

only

names of those who were not

tlie

i^'p-

siena Leone.

and who, while professing

SO consistent in this reserve,

warmest sympathy and support, armed many an adveisary against our mission.

While

Goree an accident occurred

off

to the

crown

of one of the furnaces of the steamer ^/iw??, and Capt.

Thompson was compelled Leone

to enter the port of Sierra

for repairs.

The

follow^ing j^ortion of the report to the President

of the Association, dated Sierra Leone, 30th July, 1879,

hears upon wh.at followed " These repairs nearly involved

me

a great deal of

amusement

:

me

in a little trouble

—with the colonial

—though

it

afforded

It appeals

authorities.

that some peojDle have been playing scandalous tricks with

Her Britannic and importing to the equatorial islands of Princes and St. Thomas, under fraudful pretensions, the loyal blacks of Sierra Leone. Consequently, when the hawk-eyed and vigilant Collector Majesty's

dark

colonials,

of Customs, Hansens, or Hansons, I believe his

small steamer like the Albion with so

many

name

is,

discovered a

coloured people on board^

under charge of a gentleman named Swinbiu-nc, he was justified, if the responses were not direct, to attempt penetrating further into what appeared to him extremely singular and my poor young secretary, not accustomed to be confronted and questioned by dread Government ;

soon grew confused, whereupon

officers,

invited to the cabin, and presently

—but

made aware

here Mr. Collector was that I

was about

another expedition into Africa, and the fierce governmental sided, I

am happy

to lead

wi'atli

sub-

to say."

Lest other consequences, the nature of which will he discovered hy perusal, should result, I wrote the

lowing

letter to the

" Confidential.

" SS. Albion,

—

" De.\u Sir, " I am informed by

Rowe whom both he and in

December, 1873,

Governor

is

my

fol-

:

Pokt of Silura Leone,

JkIi/

}S~0.

secretary, !Mr. Swinburne, that the Doctor

at the Volta with Capt. Glover's forces His Excellency the Governor of this colony. I

met

THE coy GO.

08 1879. '^^^^'

Sierra

me to congratiilate you upon the liigli position you have and to assm-e you that I am glad to hear that the British Government did not forget, in its distribution of rewards and honours, one so highly recommended by Captain, now Governor, Sii- John Glover, as

If true, permit

attained,

yourself.

" I have been so troubled by fevers, which, though of no serious nature, have been very annoying, since my explorations on the east coast of the rivers Wami, Kingani, Eufiji, and Mombassa Creek during the height of the rainy season, that I have since been unable to visit any one, and to

prevent good-natured attentions from

my numerous

in the hope that I should feel bettered

by a

out on

my

friends en rotde,

and

rigid dietary before launching

next exploration, I have requested the captain to kindly

conceal the fact that I was on board.

Being an African yourself of large

experience yoix will readily acknowledge that such a course of living is

more likely to ensure good health on the continent than to beget bilious humours by self-indulgence. At every call port then I have instructed Mr. Swinburne what to do, so that I might be left free to cure the last remnants of the ague before exposing myself to new attacks. " I dare say you have read paragraphs in the Tirnes and other i^apers relating to this present expedition which I am again leading to Africa. Most of the men on board are my old comrades of the Daily Telegraph

and Aew York Herald expedition which came down the Congo in 1877. Some are from Livingstone's expedition and my search expedition after Livingstone the others are their friends. The Prince of Zanzibar was applied to, and he very kindly granted me permission to enlist such as I wanted, and he also very generously supplied me with all such stores as ;

I needed during the voyage, besides letters of recommendation. " I chartered this vessel in behalf of a body of philanthropists of the King of the Belgians

is at

the head, whose purpose

is to

whom

open to the

world of commerce and Christian missions the Congo river. As exploration from the western coast is impracticable unless a portion of the expedition consists of men acquainted with travel ia these parts, it was thought best to re-engage a few of my last expedition who had personal

Lower Congo, and with whom they had made firm friendsliip. Though an uncommonly expensive proceeding it was the only alternative that promised success, and I was compelled to adopt it. While on our voyage we have experienced several small misfortunes. I had intended to have explored the Ozi and Jub rivers, but in leaving Mombassa we lost our port anchor, and the increasing monsoon winds, and the death of our first mate, compelled me experience with the natives along the

to defer this exploration until it shall please Providence to permit

another visit to the eastern shores.

A

us

few days also after leaving Gibraltar the crowns of our furnaces showed signs of weakening, but the engineers speak hopefully at present, and say that they will be able in a

day or so

to efficiently repair them.

AT BANANA " i\Ieantiine

if

you in your eminent

POINT.

iDOsition

59

can expedite

oiu* dej)arture

1879.

for the scene of oiu- labours, I sliall consider myself greatly indebted to

I am anxious about our own healths as much as for the health of men, who, though at present enjoying excellent health, one cannot say what a iDroti'acted detention on board may effect. I hav3 been very fortunate in being able to keep the Zanzibaris in perfect health, by

you.

my

and I hope and pray that I do so to the end of our voyage. You can contribute to this greatly by the exercise of your powerful position, and such good oflBces as we may need. It will be a great favour to me also if you can permit me to remain incog, for the present, as I do not feel well enough Tuiremitting attention to their comfort so far,

may be

able to

to explore Sierra Leone. "

With many

apologies for the length of this letter, I beg to subscribe

myself,

" Very sincerely yoiu-s,

(Signed) " "

To His Excellency

C4ov.

Henry M. Stanley.

Sir Sa3it:el Eowe."

" The Governor, one of the best colonial officers that Her Majesty has appointed to West Africa, was unusually kind to us, and through his inliuence we were speedily ready for sea. In the afternoon the Governor's

steam launch took us down to a pic-nic in a shady spot near the lighthouse. The iieople are in perfect health and spirits, and, when the ugly

them were strongest, preserved their composure and good humour admirably. The captain tells me we shall be able to leaver on Thursday. I count twenty days between here and the Congo if nothing breaks down we ought to be there in eleven days. It will then require some days to hear and digest and well consider all reports, after I am devoured with a wisli v/hich T shall make a reconnaisance up river. suspicions relating to

;

my foot on terra firina, and begin the great work. Tlie prospect to has nothing ominous, though I must ever regret that the mission has been so long deferred, and that so many impediments interfered Avith the

to set

me

execution of w-hat was long ago determined upon. " To the President, Col. Sthauch."

In the preceding pages I have told the story of

two years. ]>aiiana

On

Point after crossing Africa, and descending

greatest river. l)efore

the 12th August, 1877, I arrived at

On

the l4th August, 1870, I arrived

the inouth of this river to ascend

novel mission of sowin;r alonjr nients, to peacefully

its

its

banks

it,

with the

civilised settle-

conquer and subdue

it,

to

remould

Leone

THE CONGO.

60 1879.

it

Auznst

14.

Banana

Pt.

iu

barmonj with modern

^vitbin o-o

Tvliose

hand

justice

in

liinits

the

Tin

ideas into National States,

European merchant

hand with the dark African

and law and order

shall prevail,

trader,

and

and murder

and lawlessness and the cruel barter of slaves ever cease.

shall

shall for

APPROACHING LAND.

CHAPTER BAXAXA

61

YI.

POINT.

—Appearance of the coast—The majestic Congo—The —Our manly pilot—^Banana Point —A good anchorage —Advice as to clothing, food, and general beEffects of tropic haviour —-The "petit verre de Co[]nac" — Senseless abuse of Africa Description of our boats — The eccentricities of the En Avant — —Expenses, pay, and precedence —DescripClamours among the tion of the factories — A factory dinner—Youth of the managers The coloured helps — A busy scene— A varied collection of stores purpose — A melancholy spot Immense powder supply and Banana Creek — Seething mud— Local origin of the name Banana " —Prediction regarding the fate of the peninsula.

Approaching land factories

life

staff

its

"

While yet a we observed changed changed

to

fall

day's steaming from our destination,

that the ocean became stained

a

muddy

to a pale

the blue

few hours

brown, while weeds and forest debris

languidly rose and

seem

green, which

in a

;

fell

to be continually

on the low, broad

rollers that

advancing from the south-west

towards the Continent lying a few scores of miles

About

n o'clock

on the morning of the

wc were near enough define its features. To our 1879,

little

ance.

in

14tli

east.

August,

to the shore to be able to left

stretched a land very

accordance with our ideas of tropical luxuri-

The

sea-line

was backed by low, reddish

clif?s,

and beyond these extended a gradually rising land covered with sere grass, dotted here and there with

1879.

August

14.

Banana

Pt.

THE CONGO.

62 ^''~^\, ,

August

14.

Banana

Pt.

clusters of trees

7

7

the site of thc sinall native villages

few prominent

hills to

there

;

be seen anywhere

;

noticeable that towards the interior there ral its

marked

or o crroves, which, no douLt,

uplift of the land,

contour, until

it

but

"u-ere

but

it

was

was a gene-

and a greater irregularity in

culminated in a ridge of

hills

of

nearly uniform altitude running N.N.E. and S.S.W.

Over the prow^ of the steamer, however, there

w^as to

be seen a large triangular mass of forest-land, probably about twenty miles wade at the base, both w^hich, as the eyes followed

them towards the

seemed to be almost meeting in a point parallel with these, a

few miles

hilly ridge already mentioned,

ran due

east,

sides

off

interior,

far inland,

on

tlie

of

and

north, the

having suddenly curved,

while nearly a similar line

of

hills

appeared from the south curving in like manner and

running eastward.

Within the area thus described

lay the valley of the

Lower Congo.

Through the

centre of this valley and forested triangle flowed the

mighty

river,

with an average breadth of about three

and a third English

miles,

widening at the mouth to

seven and a third English miles, that

is

from Banana

Point on the north to Shark's Point on the south.

To

the south the land extends with

much

the same

appearance as that which characterises the boundaries of the

Congo Talley northward, with the exception

perhaps that the

cliffs

near the sea-line are more con-

tinuous and of a more rufous colour.

But

it

was now near noon, and gradually,

approached, the Congo disclosed

itself

like

as

we

a huge

VIEW FROM THE

SEA.

63

valve; a broad stream of daylight

lias

r

•

-,

1

•

disparted the

triangular mass ot woods into two sections,

down npon

us

we

immense volume and

we

to

made

feel

make, despite the

by

full

force,

twenty

whose power

the very slow progress

we

head of steam with which the

Albion had been prepared for the ascent of the river proper.

With Shark's and

its

Point,

which

lies

now on

our right,

hook of land half enfolding Diegos Bay, with

Point Padron and

its

monumental stone

of

the

old

Portuguese navigator far receding, and the long, high, scarcely penetrable wall of tall

for on our

left,

woods whicli darkly

we have nothing

fringes the southern shore,

to do

brilliantly white witli lime-wash,

;

on a

projecting tongue of fine sand, squats low a long line

of

Congo

factories,

which occupy nearly the whole

length of the sandy peninsula This sandy tongue

is

so

known

as

Banana Point.

low that the dark hulls of

the shipping in the harbour seem to be riding on a

plane higher than the ground covered by the buildings.

High

up, on most ambitious spars, above buildings and

shipping,

wave the various national

flags of Holland,

France, and Great Britain.

Abreast of the point a boat descends towards us bearing a is

pilot,

inspiring.

He

the very sight of whose size and build tells

us he has been living on that low,

spit-like projection of sand,

in

and guiding the shipping

and out of the harbour of Banana

years.

He

isro.

August

•

1

and bearing

see a majestic stretch of river

miles long, of are

1

for the past ten

stands before us a splendid specimen of

14-.

Banaaa Pt

TEE COXGO.

64 1879.

Banana Pt.

robust and healthy manhood, over six feet in height

^nd sixtccn stone weight, with clothes

so well-fitted

and clean that they would have graced the boulevards Let intending

of Nice.

and other similar

may

they

settlers

facts, for

on the Congo note

possibly

learn something of

how

by due

this

reflection

to live in a tropic

climate.

Banana Point

is

about two and a half miles long,

extending from near the mouth of Mputu Creek to

its

extreme southern end, and tapering gradually from a mile -wide base-line to a point adapted for building

ground scarcely 40 yards wide. into

It folds in a

which ships drawing not more than 21 and

easily enter,

its

harbour feet

can

width varies from half a mile to a

mile and a quarter, the water area being about 4500

good anchorage,

acres

easily accessible to the boats,

launches and lighters from the various factories on the Point.

It is

an improvable place

for the conveniences

of shipping, the improvement being only a question of the expense of building wharves along a line of

miles to also,

ample accommodation.

afford

The

two

islands,

between which Banana and Pirate Creeks

flow,

if

improved as commerce gi'ows, might be made useful

to

accommodate shippers. In a short hour from the time

^Ir.

—whose

Youngblood have

as I

name and

before

factories.

genial pilot,

physical system and nature,

remarked,

—came aboard, the Albion

cast

when our

correspond

with

his

had ghded quietly in

anchor abreast the upper end of the Dutch

^hen we

were well within the

still

Congo

CLOTHING AXD FOOD IX THE TROPICS. haven

\xq

began

experience

to

the

G5

The

heat.

tall

woods and mangroves that stretched from Huard Point

Bula-mhemba Point warded off the dying land-breeze,

to

and some time would yet elapse before the cooler

S.W. would

sea-breeze from the

rise to cool

the

now

cojDiously perspiring body.

a

From this moment new experience, and

his appetite

and

of arrival the body undergoes a wise

man

will begin to

his conduct accordingly.

govern

The head

that was covered with a proud luxuriance of flowinglocks, or bristled

bushy and

thick, miust be shorn close

the body must be divested of that

wind and rain-proof

armour of linen and wool in which to

was accustomed

be encased in high latitudes, and must assume,

ease

of

it

and pleasure are preferable

soft, loose,

to discomfort,

if

garments

That head-covering which

light flannels.

London and Paris patronise must give

place to the

helmet and pugo'aree, or to a well-ventilated light cap with curtain.

And

as those decorous externals of

Europe, with their sombre colouring and cumbrous thickness,

must yield

to

the

more graceful and

airy

flannel of the tropics, so the api^etite, the extravagant

power of digestion, the seemingly uncontrollable and ever-famished lust for animal

food,

and the distem-

pered greed for ardent drinks, must be governed by

an absolutely or as others

new may

mj'ime.

it

I.

it

exhilarating, or

European must avoid during

be in the guise of the commonly

believed innocuous lager, mild

VOL.

liquid that is exciting,

choose to term

inspiring, the unseasoned

daylight, whether

Any

Pilsen, watery claret,

p

is79.

August

14.

Banana

Pt.

THE CONGO.

66 vin ordinaire, or

1S7K.

Au^.

" innocent "

any other

wine or

beer.

14.

Banana

Pt.

Otherwise the slightest indiscretion, the least unusual

prove

taste,

grief in

beer

duty not to pander

?

petit

"

slain themselves

de

verre

What

"

to it.

by

losses,

a I

my

remembering the young, the strong, and

ignorance.

Un

short hour

nor to be too nice in offending

who have

the brave

"

my

is

in one

compelled to speak strongly by our

own own

It

fatal.

depraved

am

may

spasmodic industry,

effort or

Cognac

?

"

—

can they matter

?

through their

" a glass of small " ask the

inexpe-

rienced pleadingty.

To me, perhaps

personally, nothing

—a

coup de

soleill

!

To you,

a sudden death,

frantic

and insensate

A

rush to the hot sun out of the cool shade, an imprudent exposure,

may

knows-what

severity, or a rheumatic fever that will lay

you prostrate for

be followed by a bilious fever of who-

for weeks, perhaps utterly unfitting

You were

your work and future usefulness.

by that taken,

petit verre

of Cognac

—which

inspired

had you

you might have been more deliberate

you

in

not

your

movements, and more prudent than to needlessly exert yourself in the presence of an is

enemy

so formidable as

when

sensitised

Should you recover, you will blame Africa.

" Africa

the tropic sun to a white man's head,

by the fumes of Cognac.

is

cruel

to the

!

Africa

European!"

is

murderous

!

Africa means death

And your stupid

unreflecting friends

with their cowardly jargon in Europe will echo the cry

—simply because a weakling

like

you could not

resist

THE PETIT VEREE. Must

your j??^?'^^ v^rre at midday.

67

continent be

all this .

subjected to the scourge 01 your vituperative powers "

A

man

cannot exist on tea and

tinually drinking soup

and water

!

"

?

be con-

coffee, or

whines one whose

propensities are alarmed. I

do not demand that you should confine yourself or coffee, or soup

to tea,

seltzer, Apollinaris, or

you may wish that if

to

you wish

— or

water, or lemonade, or

whatever other agreeable liquid

quench your

thirst.

duty, avoid stimulants, under whatever be,

during the day

;

wines and champagnes

for

you

same time ;

name they may

evening moderate indul-

in the

gence with your dinner in

xVt the

I only suggest

enjoy Africa, and do your pledged

to

clarets,

Madeira, or white

not harmful but

is

l)eneficial.

this advice is not especially intended

but for young

men

desirous of distinguishing

themselves for their ability to live and work in Africa.

The brave man

is

he

who

dare

live,

and will not yield

to death without a contest.

But enough

—

coming aboard

to

By

at the present time I see our officers

hear the news from the Albion.

this time the officers of the expedition, consisting

of an American, two English, five Belgians,

and one Frenchman

— quite

two Danes,

an international group

had discovered that the long-expected Albion, with her passenger arrived,

list

made up mainly of

and they came aboard

The steamer Barga,

after

and passengers, had departed

was most miscellaneous

in

to

Zanzibaris,

pay their

had

respects.

discharging her cargo for

p]urope.

character, as

1879.

Aug. 14.

.

The cargo

may

well be

F 2

Banana Pt.

THE CONGO.

68

imagined, since the expedition was for the purpose of

1879.

Aug. 14.

Banana

Pt.

—

ITT

in

founding permanent establishments,

1

capacious

tiie

hold of the good steamer there had been about twenty huts, besides the chiefs chalet

years a conspicuous coign small

— the

crown

for

— and

a

rode each intact,

brand-new coating of gray paint and

its

awning fringed with

striped

to

of Tivi

hill

now

of steamers which

flotilla

and prond of

gay

which was

This

red.

flotilla

consisted of Steel

twin screw-steamer La Belgique, 65 feet long, 11 feet beam Oj feet dranght, 16 nominal horse jxtwer measurement, 30 tons. ;

hoKe power nominal

Zsperance, 42 feet long, 7 feet

beam

£n

feet long,

Avant, paddle

lx)at,

power nominal Eoyal, screw.

43

;

6

feet 11

;

screw.

inches beam;

6 horse

draught, 11 inches.

;

Mahogany

lifeboat built

equipment

by White, of Cowes

mahogany

long, 6 feet beam, fitted with silk hangings,

7

;

30

feet

cabin, plate glass, bine

rich, being the special gift to the expedi-

by His Majesty the King of the Belgians. capacity, 12 tons. lighter, 60 feet long, 7 feet beam, 4 feet deep hghter, 40 feet long by 6 feet beam, 8 feet deep capacity, 6 tons. tion

Steel Steel

;

;

Jeune Africaine, screw launch, 24

feet long,

"Wooden whale boat, 33

6 feet beam

The

feet long,

of which

cost

total

5 feet 10 inches beam. capacity, 3^ tons.

;

was £4725, exclusive

of

freisiht.

All these boats in a line along the shore made a verv pretty sight.

The Esperance was

so far

advanced that

she was actually at work, snorting loudh- as she darted

about to test her machiner}-.

however, I discovered the

flotilla

By

much work

closer examination,

to be

done before

could ascend the powerful stream safely.

The Belgique required a fender rance was almost unmanageable

crunwale too low

;

the.

En

all

round

—rudder

Avant was

;

the Esjje-

too narrow,

cruiltv of extra-

ECGENTEICITIES OF THE EX AYAXT. ordinary freaks,

69

and as stubborn as the donkev

is

1879.

Aug. 14,

At one moment

generally supposed to be.

she had

oyer ten atmospheres of steam, and rushed madly on, while we, expectantly watching the explosion, were ready to

the gauge

first

jump overboard

indicated descent, and

;

signs of an

but suddenly paddle-wheels

the

cjuld scarcely revolve, while the rudder never had the

was as

most painful plight,

in a

much

he w^as being tested

for

All the engineers of the

as his steamer.

frequently assembled

The poor engineer

movements.

slightest control of her

to

discuss

the

flotilla

causes of this

aiysterious behaviour of the much-abused boat. Guilders ought to •riticisms

of the

have been present Board.

had

to be plastered

hear the severe

Her gunwale was

.ow, her rudder too narrow, ooiler

to

also too

and the back-plate of the

with

mud

to cause a

draught

in the furnace at all, despite the continued blast

the escape pipes.

The boat

did

from

not gain our good

opinion until she had nearly driven her to

The

first

engineer

the verge of suicide, given unspeakable mortifica-

tion to her second,

and impressed her third with a

deep and bitter sense of utter

failure.

The fourth

mechanician was an Italian named Francesco Flamini

—a

quiet,

steamer's

painstaking man. eccentricities

—and

Being informed of the the

of

engineer, with the various changes that

had been made, he pursed

his brow,

and meditated.

It

failure

each

and experiments

his lips

was

of

and puckered

interesting to watch

him.

Finally he opened the furnace door and gazed

inside,

and presently

lifting his head, lie said

Banana

Pt.

THE CONGO.

70

"I

1879.

Aug.

make

will

14.

Banana

Pt.

Other/'

and

shifted

—

the

this

steamer travel as cmickly as any

to cut the story short

— he did.

and kept a regular

higher up,

firebars

Ever afterwards she

supply of water in the boiler.

She travelled

performed her duty.

He merely

to Yivi, breasted

boldly the rapids above Manyanga, pioneered the to

Lake Leopold

Biyere, and

waters of the Stanley

and was the

IL,

Oh, an

Falls.

written of the brave

the

first

boat

to

cleave the

steam up to

poem might now be

epic

little

first to

way

At

!

the same time I

do not quite exempt her builders from censure for having, despatched her to the

Congo without

a suffi-

cient trial. I

have long since shuffled

off

the mortal

coil

of

worries and anxieties that gradually revealed themselves to

me

as

day by day we laboured to get these

boats ready for the rough service they were destined to perform.

I

had no

efficient

skipper to take charge

of this work, and I have never been honoured with

the assistance of an efficient second.

I therefore

am not

going to worry the reader with a nauseating criticism of any particular man's weaknesses, though I prefer

not to pass over in silencethe least exhibition of worth. Greneralities,

however,

the character of our

may

be pardoned, else

work be

neglect these might subject

e\'er

me

how

understood

?

will

To

to the imputation of

being interested in withholding information, a charge

which might detract from the veracity of the narrative. First their contracts and rank were complained of

by the various

assistants.

Almost

all

of

them clamoured

TROUBLESOME ASSISTANTS.

71

for "

expenses of

made

to understand, wine, tobacco, cigars^ clothes, shoes, Banana

all

which included,

kinds,"'

so I

was

board and lodging, and certain nameless extravagances.

One

would not stay on the Congo unless

said that he

these were granted to if

he was expected

him

freely

to drive a

;

another asserted that

steam-launch unassisted,

he must have higher pay, and that tailed for the interior, his

more.

Another

engaged

as

pay should be increased

eno-ineer

—asserted

that he

sub-commander of the expedition

a descendant of

tured into Africa

come

— an

he was to be de-

if

all

the

,

was

that he,

;

would never have ven-

upon such a miserable stipend

for honour, reputation,

still

fame

;

he had

he would write to

;

the newspapers, &c.* Another engineer complained that

he was not accorded his proper rank of the engines

was equal

of the

30-ton

;

being in charge

steamer, he

certainly

to the general accountant of the expedition.

The gentleman

in charge of the smallest steam-launch

thought himself superior to the

sailor in

charge of a

rowing boat, and considered himself disparaged being requested to mess at the same table as the

by

latter.

All this was, of course, the result of raw inexperience

and misapprehension, heightened, perhaps, by the mischievous practice

of imbibing strong wine at their

midday meal. Tlie tv/o tlie

only two

Danish

who had no

contented with their

The

Martin

and Albert, were

coniDlaints,

and who seemed

sailors,

lot.

excited men, however, were gradually soothed, *

This was a threat freqiiently used.

isto.

Pt.

377^ CONGO.

72

1879.

Aug. 14.

Their tender

and

siisceptibilities

after a sliort time

were considerably flattered,

harmony was

restored, with the

lianaua Pt,

promise of explaining to the Committee at the

first

As for quarrelling about rank, it was Were we not all brothers, comrades, partisans

opportunity. absurd.

grand international cause, the vanguard of

in a

"Where

sation? &c.

man

the

is

with a soul so dead

to honour, to fame, to immortality

mutiny was hushed, and "

? "

The

&e.

hands turned

all

civili-

first

to."

The " Dutch House " has been mentioned more than In 1879 the term stood for the Afrikaansche

once.

Handels-Yereeniging,* or African Trading Company, of

Rotterdam Messrs. Pincoffs ;

& Kerdyck

had been lately

Young Mr. Kerdyck,

the enterprising managers.

brother of the elder Kerdyck, had appeared at

the

Banana

Point in 1869, and after purchasing the ground, and a few buildings from the

had proceeded

French firm of Regis & on a permanent

to establish,

business which rapidly

grew

tions that the buildings,

and black.

number of people

faces

may

sides of

grand propor-

acres, all

pure sand,

be said to be assuring

its

best seen at dinner, tables.

A

glance at

serves almost to reconcile one to Africa.

Towards the end

ceeded to

are employed, both white

two long

partake of the hospitality. *

700

The whites may be

ranged on the

It

a

about four feet above high water.

A large

their

basis,

with their yards, sheds, and

courts, cover a space of about lifted

into such

Co.,

business.

when we

are asked to

For, despite the abundance

of the year the Afrikaansche Genootschap suc-

YOUTHFUL MANAGERS. with, whicli the tables bencl,

73

hearty appetites generally

1879.

Auc.

contrive

to

reduce the portion

considerably before first

dinner

tlie

tisbered into the dining-room

Port Said

I

was

and saw the array

my

of plates, the tout ensemble was to like to a

When

over.

is

view extremely

table cVhote.

There are very yonng

when young, some

faces to be seen at the table,

They

and a few veterans.

started

their tropic

life

at sixteen years old, but mostly all

The

between seventeen and tw^enty.

chief manager,

Mr. A. de Bloeme, director of nearly eighty commercial factories, I

was

told,

was only twenty-seven, and he

had already counted nine years of Greshoff,

now manager

service.

Mr. Antoine

of the commercial factory of

Boma, was only twenty-two, and he was year of service.

in his fifth

Mons. Muller, another very young-

man, almost beardless, had experienced seven years of r^ongo

life.

Mr. Gray, however one of the veterans of

the coast, had been " out " sixteen years, w^ithout having

once returned to Europe.

Mr. Youngblood, the of

how

And

pilot, as

here he stood to rival

a healthy representative

a European could endure the tropics.

The coloured help of

this establishment requires a

full-grown village to house

its

numbers.

The people

with their wives and children represent every tribal district

along the coast to Cape Lopez, and distant parts

of Interior Ngoyo, and the land of the Bateke and

— strong-] imbed, broad-chested, muscled men of the labouring —are also here by Basundi.

Kruboys

fine-

class

the score.

Along

14-.

for the kitchen BanLa

left

the beach or on the piers they

may

pt,

THE COSGO.

74

be seen in loin-clouts and hats witli brims of amiDle

i?79.

Aug. 14.

Banana

Pt.

.

.

prominence and girth, and a grotesque variety of caps, heave-yo-ing upon heavy weights, rolling lime-washed casks of palm-oil, cooking the rich, yellow butter of the

Elais guineensis, running

it

into other casks

at the

;

coal yard loading trucks, bearing sacks of palm-kernels

or shelled ground-nuts.

Under the lengthy sheds

the boat-builders building

new

The Kabinda cask-makers

are

dingeys.

or

lighters

are

hammering down the

iron hoops with a din that shocks the ears.

Along the

beach the boats come and go, or the galliots enter, laden

with fresh water from the south bank, or with African

produce from Ponta da Lenha and Boma, and perhaps

from Mussuko, higher up the Congo. Scattered the

at

heaps along

corners of sheds, or in

beach, are the iron refuse of vears of business

of this large

anchors with

and prosperous establishment broken

ancient

:

ancient howitzers

flukes,

and

carronades with no one knows wliat history, and heaps of old cable, iron bars and

laneous debris of old metal.

hoops, amidst a miscel-

Under another

large shed

are perhaps stored 5000 tons of coal, for this

House

has the monopoly of coaling the men-of-war and mail

and casual steamers.

To examine the buildings

enough

is

to

weep with in bales

interior parts of these lengthy plank

In them

a good day's work.

make a Manchester

may

pleasure, for there

upon

bales, a million

cotton

may

be seen

manufacturer

be, piled

up high

yards of cotton, from the

finest to the flimsiest qualit}'

;

huge dry-goods

cases,

IMMENSE POWDER SUPPLY. where the British Government seems

to

75

have disposed

i870.

Aug.

of the old red

army years

of their

coats

In

ago.

another store Birmingham and Sheffield might rejoice at the sight of the iron kettles

tons

of cutlery, the

and pots and pans, the

thousands of

and percussion guns, and the

flintlock

muskets In

stores of brass bells.

another place the millowners of Eochdale, looking at the piles of red and blue savelist, might have cause

wish that there were

to

Houses

to

tlie

enterprising Dutch

buy from them the cunning labour of

looms, and to disperse

At

more

over broad Africa.

it

the extreme end of the Peninsula of

Banana

is

powder magazine, containing enough pow^der appa-

rently to salute the dead for a century to no,

their

we

shall be informed, just

next ship comes alarmino' at

— " expected

first if

we

enough

;

This might be

remember that almost

every child that dies receives a salute of honour of shots, while a

woman

has ten, and a

man twenty

a chief ten or twelve barrels might not

employed

for such harmless purposes,

to regard the

but

to last until the

shortly."

did not

come

suffice.

we

:

five

for

When

are tempted

dangerous compound in the light of a

beneficent element of trade.

Close by, and between the i:)Owder magazine and the

white factory buildings of Banana,

where many a one sleeps the explosion of

ngain to tedious

all

fast

and-long,

those tons of

life.

is

the

cemeter}^

whom

not even

powder would awaken

Here on the shore the waves of

the Atlantic beat loud and solemn, dirge-like, mourning the loss of those wlio appeared in the tropic land only

14.

Bauaua

Pt.

THE CONGO.

76

to pass to their final rest.

1870.

Aug.

avoided

It is a place to be

14.

Banana

Pt.

^Y

The

apt to be afilicted with jJi'esentiments.

tliose

sound of those waves, the view of that dead sand and the blank waste of sea-waters, which yon feel are so

wide and stretch so if

you would,

far,

away on

sail

how to live in many as strong, if

those

for

;

likely to silent

ignorant

so

this land w'hich has already slain so

Away

not stronger, tlian yourself.

to the habitations of the living

Dutch know how

The

fortable.

are

all

—you,

of

Tlie

—

menace yourself

to

from the scene,

thera

melancholy

engender a profound

mounds seem

the thought that you cannot,

to

make

their

tahle d'hote, w^ith its

!

young men com-

varied abundance,

may

be cited as one proof; the neat frame houses, lofty

and

cool,

They have

another.

a

medico

wdio possesses a well-stocked dispensary billiard-table

;

;

hand

at

they have a

they have a number of riding-asses

though the sand enclosed by the buildings

means tempting

to a pedestrian,

still

;

and

by no

is

the beach

is

as

firm as asphalt, and the cool sea-breeze from the South

Atlantic

is

grateful after a windless day.

Beyond the

larger area occupied

by the Dutch House

&

begins the establishment of Daumas, Beraud

who

trade in the same produce and conduct

similar

manner

much humbler from is

this

to

the

scale.

Further north, and separated

by a few rubbish heaps and stagnant

Company on all

a

still

these, the

in a

Dutch method, though on a

the establishment of the

seen

it

Co.^

pools,

Congo and Central African

smaller

features of

scale.

When we

Banana

have

are described,

SEETHING MUD. and the traveller

77

for the interior will

wish

to depart as .

soon as possible.

mud

and which cover the low

across the harbour,

deposit

which separates

Banana Creek from that of Pirate Creek, are not worthy of exploration, neither are the monotonous creek-banks, which you

sombre,

dull,

will see

if

you

ascend either creek, worthy of regard.

you ascend up Banana Creek, there

sufficient for small vessels,

somewhere

the creek

slave

in

times,

If the tide

direction.

mud,

will

alive

take is

neighbourhood of Ponta

you

all

sizes,

same

which enter in and

you

loiter in this

waste of

mud, be warned that you endanger your tlie

mangrove

are

health. like

so

forked radish standing on the tips of their roots

liowever fantastic they

may

be, the sense of dreariness

and desolation and homelessness feeling

—though

perament of that

—that

this, I

raises such a chilling

admit, depends on personal tem-

an ascent up the Congo, the cleaving

tawny and powerful and billowy

swift steamer, I

the

in

finally

low, the view of the seething

If

Those scraggy roots of

many

emerge out of

their holes incessantly, will be rather de-

pressing than otherwise. foetid

will

deep water

is

up Pirate Creek, a famous route

with crabs of

emerge out of

and you

in the

A journey

da Lenha.

is

far

flood in a

more exhilarating.

have never been able to discover

peninsula of sand, whose highest crest

is

why

this

low

not twelve feet

above low-water, and only six feet above high-water,

came

to be

14.

Banaua Pt.

The mangroves of Hnard Point

If

isto.

Aug.

^

...

distinguished with the

title

of Banana, as

TEE CONGO.

78 the

1879.

Banana

Pt.

name

is

^^^^^ tlistrict,

suggestive of a tropic plant look foF in vain to-day.

gine why, bnt this

is

I can imagine that

modern

establishment, which

was situated nearer the centre

where the Dutch

;

Co.'s factory

and towards the Point, few banana

flagstaff stands, a

flourish in the

at the present time.

Three hundred years ago, followed, the

&

hke the pahns which

same neighbourhood

in

I can well ima-

has so overgrown the Point, that Regis

plants throve, just

shall,

not history.

before the advent of the

possibly

we

if

old

maps are

to

A

peninsula was not so long.

be

mere

blunted-hook shaped cape existed, called Cape Palmas,

and

may very

it

possibly be

Dutch have a suspicion that have taken precautions.

it

so

again

—

at least the

might happen, and they

Stakes and piles and stone

debris protect the inner shore of the point,

and many

a ship-load of rocks has already been carried and piled

along the sea-board.

Once or twice

in

my

life I

have predicted

success-

fully,

and reason now suggests a disastrous combination

of a

hurricane, or

long-enduring tornado from the

westward or north-west, damming m^ the Congo

month

of

December

to the overflow of that

and with the receding sula clean

down

tide scouring the

in the

low point,

Banana

j^enin-

to the firm rocks that first attracted

the sands and sediment to form this prolongation.

J

LoiLilcm

^^

Sampson Low.Marston.Searlv

^Rivuigtoii

THE START UP THE CONGO.

CHAPTER

YII.

UP THE " MIGHTY The

" COXGO.

— —

—

proceeds up the river Braving the giant stream Silence on wooded shores Kissanga Pouta da Lenha Dutch factories Guarding against floods The dangers of hospitality Depth of the river its volume— The dry and rainy seasons Tidal action Fetish rock " The d 1 had done it " Ma-taddi Nzazzi, " Lightning Stone" Boma, the principal emporium of trade Means of communication Loneliness and cheerlessness^A refreshing change African sunshine The blood-curdling history of Boma Horrors of the slave trade -A terrible punishment The trade of Boma The "wicked white man" Progress of Boma Historical treatment of the river Hungry whites— Baffled by the stream " Hippopotamus ? flotilla

—

the

—

—

—

:

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

that's

a rock,

mim

" !

—A

days

—

—Departure

the

after

ascending the Congo. beached,

scraped,

... arrival

of the SS. Albion

work required by

the steam whistles

On

was ready

herself

had been

and sober prevision

morning of August

21st,

sounded the signal, and we It

all

was an event that

well be called the inauguration of a

new

basin, just as a grander array of

era for

mighty

ships in the year 1869 inaugurated the union of the

Red Sea with

the Mediterranean.

ists.

for Banana

and painted, and nuich

steamed out of Banana Haven.

Congo

in

A"S- -1-

flotilla

serious

the

Albion

the

of

The Albion

scrubbed

had been performed.

the

—

—

dead shot

Banana Creek, the expedition

may

—

Europe.

Sevex

other

—

—

—

— —

for

—

pt.

THE CONGO.

80

The Lower Congo has been ascended many

1870.

a time

Auo-. 21.

the date of

BanrnaPt. sinco

discovery, but

its

my

For

described satisfactorily.

previous omission in

my

1877 I could well be excused, for

and

utterly prostrated me, I

yearned for

was the blue Atlantic that

health, both they

which we had followed

all

bourne, and had seen under

and

I

The voluminous

with different eyes.

it

had

fatigues

— I and my poor fellows.

But now, strong with upon

it

has never been

it

look flood,

way to its spacious aspects now tranquil as

the long

—

all

a summer's dream, anon raging with horrent-creamed crests

above deep brown hollows, engulfing our unwary

menacing our

mates,

frail

low barks

— smiled

to-day, as with calm but interested glance

down

We

have forgiven

past,

time

for

treacherv. to be

decks on

secure from high

We

has

softened

feel still

trifled with.

by impeding

long ago

it

It

that

also

rocks, or

when

have power now

With

steel cutters

the sea astern,

its

waves

We

its

when

ruffled

rise

up, re-

heavy and

fall

of

a dano'erous river

is

it

buried the

memories

our

—-power

ledge and harsh experience.

stream with

we have

;

we gazed

placid surface.

has awful power

monstrant to the breeze, and

But we

its

on us

sullen.

gained by know-

will brave the giant

driven by steam!

we head up

the long stretch,

over three miles wide, along a course whose depth varies from in

60 feet to 900

mid-stream of

five

feet,

knots.

and with a current

On

either

hand the

dark- green walls of mangrove, intermixed with fronds, are apparently impenetrable,

palm

though the charts

KISSAXGA. tell

us that

many

81

a lazy creek traces

winding* course

its

1879. *

amid the

cool

we

In an hour the

and

shades of embracino;

silent

which was and

north bank,

Fathomless Point, though

by that term.

Bulambemba

are abreast of

There

is,

it is

up

towards

river,

banked deposit of

and many towering

as

however, abundance of water,

and

it;

trees,

and scrub most uninviting

damp,

rich,

which

finally

keeping about half a

mile off the shore, along the northern bank. land, or a

still

not accurately described

for our pilot edges the steamer

straightens the steamer

Point, on

known

is

leafa2:e,

It is a

foetid

alluvium

shelter a thick

A

to look at.

low

bush

break here

and there shows the entrance or debouchure of a narrow creek, within the mazes of

canoes might well hide.

piratical

animate nature

not a bird

:

the

sciously

we regard

on the south disturb

is

of narrow

flotilla

It

devoid of

is

Ijank,

uncon-

Neither on the north bank nor

it.

nor yet on the river,

this lifelessness

river-flood glides

all

movement

seen, not a

melancholy interest with which

breaks

to

which a

of sleeping

is

there aught

nature.

The

on serene in one unbroken, unruffled

mass, but yet with an unmistakably resistless, though silent energy.

On

the wooded shores there

loneliness as of death less

;

on the

moving water we only

tranrpiil

is

a solemn

mass of cease-

see the peace of

an undis-

turbed slumber. AVlien about 14 miles from l^anana

we

steer, to

avoid

the shallows of Scotchman Head, towards a cluster of factories,

known

as Kissanga, situate

seven miles higher up vor..

T.

;

on the south bank,

thence close in shore for a few

a

p

T

''*^"'''* ^'*-

THE COXGO.

82 1879.

and tben, when the

miles,

fiictories

of Ponta da

Lenha

Aug. 21. Kissanga.

appear well in

sight,

we

strike straight

up the deeper

branch of the Congo, which runs by these, thus avoiding the less

known Sonho

branch, and the more intricate

channels winding erratically between the island gi'oups of Drapei-, Monkey, Robson, Stocking, and Farquhar.

These various names of uninhabitable forest-clothed mud-deposits were

first

made known

us through

to

Though

the survey chart of Captain Maxwell, 1793.

they are meaningless enough nowadays, they do as well

as others would, since there are

They

are

one

distingniishing

peculiarities

wooded densely,

all

islet

no remarkable from another.

as well as the

banks.

Xorth, south, and middle channels might serve better to describe the channels than that of

Maxwell, which

stands for the north, Sonho in place of the south, and

Mamballa

for the middle.

Kissanga

is

situate in a

dry, black vegetable

soil,

clearing on

semi-circular

and

close to the water's edge,

for the convenience of factory business, such as rolling

of

palm-oil

aboard the launches and

15-cwt.

casks

galliots,

and the quick discharging of cargo.

There

are three factories even here, but the stranger to

wonder where the customers come from

the buildings there

is

scarcely

;

for

is

apt

behind

sixty yards of open

ground, and beyond these rise the living wall of dark-

green

forest,

with

its

interwoven creepers and palmate

leafage and broad-leafed plants for undergrowth.

more searching investigation along the bank cover the

mazy lagoons which

pierce the shore,

A

will dis-

and lead

PliECAUTIONS AGAINST FLOODS. to firm

83

on the main, which reach to the

foot-paths

1879. Auo-. '21.

villages of the Miishirongos. that are freely scattered

on the level grassy plain or rolling country behind the

The Sonho channel washes the southern

forest screen.

and the strong current soon brings the trading

shore,

natives with a cargo close alongside the factory landing-

by hugging the shore the ascent

place, while for

easy

is

narrow canoes.

Exactly four

hours

Royal and Esperance

which

Point,

also is

a*

brings to

the

Albion,

Belgiijue,

Wood

Ponta da Lenha, or

decided misnomer,

when

the

all

shores are curtained with a tropic sea-wood, and every

inch of the islands appears to be cloistered by imj^enetrable

Here are

masses of dark-green groves.

three factories, each consisting of a mass of plank

other

structures,

some roofed with tarred

and and

felt,

others thatched.

The Dutch

are,

as

usual,

far

ahead in the

style^

They

arrangement, and soHdity of their structures. are

perpetually improving, building, and solidifying

landed

their

possessions

and

At

establishments.

Banana they have lavished thousands of pounds their industrial here,

war against

flood encroachments,

warned by the increasing the

against

Dutch

instincts


frail

mud,

substratum of

and

Congo

force of the their

in

island,

their

have been roused, and they are busy

—massive

teak and red-wood piles

to restrain the inroads of the

— deep

impetuous

current.

Under

the broad and

commodious verandahs of

G

2

their

Kislincra.

TEE CONGO.

84 1879.

Aug,

islet

home

a delicious cool place on a Lot, glaring

is

21.

Ponta da

suniiv day.

.

may

There you

sit

at ease

watching the here by

river flow swiftly by, angered just

brown

steep bulk-heads,

a moanine:

and venting

o-uro'le.

its

muttered wratli with

The view of

the backo-round of

jungly forest formed on one of the Draper Islands just half a mile

away, and the steady-flowiug

brightened and gleaming,

is

river,

soothing to the eyes, and

the mysterious unanah'sable sounds issuing from the forest close behind

dark

tall

ness,

although antidotes of

to be

us

seltzer, or

had from the ebon-hued

The master

House.

woo one

drowsi-

to

good hot

tea, are

Dutch

servitors of the

of the factory, too, on these occa-

sions places his time at the disposal of the guest, as

though he were a

incutre

record also that stronger

I regret to

cVhotel. licjuids,

hospitality.

suffering

may

To the so

and

proffered,

and a general custom of mistaken thirsty one, slightly fatigued, or

under a sense of

invitations It

spirit

to

the bane of Western

Africa, are only too temptingly displayed

through a

have

readily

trifling

these

lassitude,

given are almost

irresistible.

be that people might in time be educated by

such' sufr^estions as the above to withhold,

and never

offer these baits to inebriety

and debility unless they

are urgently requested to do

so,

w^hen, of course, they

are to be excused.

How much class

of

men

when were living,

do

sailors,

engineers, and the illiterate

reason about what

is

beneficial

?

Or

such people educated in the philosophy of

and the proper uses of that lusty

life

with

POXTA DA LENHA. bave been endowed

tliev

Avliicli

85

Even

?

the climates

1879.

Aug. 21.

they were born in they scarcely nnderstood

but when,

;

with their tender, pale, and imtanned skins, and their

wealth of

engendered by ever-existing plentv, they

fat,

appear at the tropics, with variety,

how

feel, after

and lack of

diet

can they be taught that the lassitude they

hours of copious perspiration,

Xature making her

l)y

meagre

its

tions so suddenly

only caused

is

under the condi-

eifort to live

imposed upon her?

Ponta da Lenha, or the

Wood

Point,

thirty-four

is

by the steamer's

statute miles, or twenty-eight sea miles

from the anchorage in Banana Creek.

track, situate

on an

island,

within easy reach of the

is

it

Though

natives of the mainland north, w-ho bring their palmoil,

kernels,

and ground nuts, live-stock and vegetables,

to their favourite factories to exchano-e for cotton cloth

of

all

As

qualities

and

powder, and guns.

far as this cluster of barter establishments the

SS. Great Eastern lie

colours, cutlery,

might

easily enter

from the

snugly alongside the Dutch wdiarf.

British,

Dutch,

quently ascended

to

east curve w^e

may

—have

fre-

It is well protected

this place.

from the sea-breeze, as one

and

Men-of-war

and French

Portuguese

sea,

see

made from above

by the

slight north-

Kissano-a.

A

few

miles above, how^ever, a shifting bar j^reventsthe ascent

of ocean steamers. as to a safe draught it

The

local pilots are not

—some

say 12

depends principally upon the

ledge gained by the pilot. Hiirhiirai/,

drawing 15

feet,

In 1882 feet

aft,

others 10 feet

and

skill

I

unanimous

local

know-

ascended in the

safely

and without

Pontad:i

THE CONGO.

86 1879,

Aug.

21.

r-.ntada

touch, and descended

drawing even 17

Others^ again, have not been

without accidcnt. fortunate

feet.*

All these discrepancies will

requirements

My

personal opinion

is

as

the

reliable

maxi-

that the

depth that could be obtained in the rainy season

would be 22 16

removed

be

demand more

navigation

of

knowledge.

mum

so

various tedious delays have been caused to

;

drawing 12

vessels

feet,

and in the lowest of the dry season

feet.

In order

to

dry seasons, tlie

understand

why

there should be such a

between the depth during the rainy and the

difference

of

inches

feet

.

.

let

me

observe here that a certain section

Kiver Congo above Stanley Pool,

entire day's experiments,

when

of March,

showed that

the river

was nearly

after nearly

in the early part

lowest, a

volume

of 1,440,000 cubic feet of water flowed per second

by taking the a high

;

and,

altitude of high level as plainly visible

cliffy rock,

my

an

on

calculations prove that at least

2.530,000 cubic feet of water must flow every second at the height of the rainy season.

Before this water

reaches the sea a multitude of rivers have joined their tribute

to

Amazon

this

volume, a quantity which only the

Nay,

can surpass.

chart of 1793

is

to

*

The following

Boma

vessels

;

have

French ship

I find,

on calculating

and current and breadth, that a volume of 4,382,000 cubic

reported

1875, reports 3 fathoms as lowest; 1880, 4 fathoms

old Captain Maxwell's

be relied uj)on,

his items of soundings

a few miles above

if

Torch,

differently

:—H.M.S. Arkl,

1872, 2 fathoms;

Sagitaire, 1883, less

than 13

feet.

Firefly,

RISE AXIJ FALL OF THE BIVEE. feet

per second

attained

is

do not by any means

I

!

and

voucli for the accuracy of bis soundings,

may bave been

that the force of the current

by rough Then,

87

I tbink

ascertained

guess.

a river becomes nearly doubled in volume

if

twice a year,

is

it

know what months

important to

are

the dry and rainy seasons. Briefly, this not

tion gathered, I river be2:ins at

1st

and

gradual decline

a

is

may state that a Boma in the latter

between the

is full rise

there

being the place for

the 1st of September, inclusive

is

From the

The

sensible rise of the

half of March, and

May;

3 1st of

after this

beginning of

the

until

August, from which time there

the informa-

all

no change until about

is

rise

from March

to

May

called the lesser rise.

the 1st of September to between the 15tli to of

2.')th

December

is

the greater

rise.

Between

the 13th of January and the 10th of March there a steady

fall,

after

until the lesser rise

which time the river recommences at

its

G feet;

at

At Boma

The ebb

for the

ebb and flood must be the

tide

Ponta da Lenha about 21 inches

say 18 inches. 3 inches.

month

At Banana

taken into consideration.

changeless,

usual date.

Besides the due observation of the ascent, the effect of the tide

is

is

the effect of

races near the

mouth

it

is

rises

— others

but

2 or

at the rate of

a few knots per hour, and lasts nearly as long again as the flood.

that the sea

simply the

AVitli all is

this, it

must not be supposed

admitted into the Congo.

The

effect of the pressure of the sea

flood is

upon the

1879.

Pontada

THE CONGO.

88,

1S79.

Aug.

21.

Pontada

current of the river, which, checked in .

velocity,

its

.

Tiscs to the

height above mentioned.

After a night spent in comfort at Ponta da Lenha,

although ance

tlie

entire

flotilla

had not made

— for the En Avant, which should

appear-

its

have been most

forward, was decidedly en arriere on this day

—we

de-

parted from the landing-place and steamed up towards

Boma

though but a small

in due order, the Albion,

steamer, a veritable elephant compared to the dainty

mosquito

flotilla,

which made

high-pressure engines than

far

a

more noise with

their

dozen Albions would

have made. It

was

a cool early

morning, and the sun had not

ventured out from behind the thick banks of light-grey

where he lurked

clouds,

of his

warmth gave

j)ale

and

The absence

rayless.

rather a chilly,

gloomy aspect

to

the stolid lifeless banks, with their continued monotone of colouring

movement

—a

dead green-black, without sheen or

— except

that

which a stray calamus made

brushed hither and thither by the

as,

breeze, stalk

it

or

sought the

aimlessly limb,

or

that

chill

support

made bv

the

morning

of

a

stiff

ever-noddinsr

water-reeds.

As we

continue steamirg upward, gradually the

dense bush looms up

and

less tall

scantier, while

more conspicuous.

and dark

;

it

becomes lower

the palms on the islands become

The

sea-loving mangrove, with

its

sickening ooze and fantastic centipedal roots, has quite disappeared, and

now

waving and nodding

grassy plains, strangely

silent,

yet

wildly, recede inland towards the

GEEAT BREADTH OF THE BIVEE. land which

liig'li

The

we saw from

the sea trending eastward.

1879.

Aug. 21.

hills

of vrhich

it

consists

form an

deeply indented in slope and at the sonth

we

80

;

summit-line.

Looking

bank, after getting above Stocking Island,

see similar plains stretching

ridge

irrro-idar rido-e

towards a similar hilly

and following both ridges with our

them away np

river, a

eyes,

we

see

few miles above Boma, appa-

rently meet, and the course of the river

is

untraceable

.^i^„

THE FORESTED BAXKS OF THE I.OWEK COXGO.

And

by a stranger. \vell see

bank

to

here for the

first

time

we can

the enormous breadtli of the stream, for from

bank, clearly exposed,

it

is

about four and

a half miles.

At

10.30

x.yi.

we were passing within

a few hundred

yards of the rock called Fetish (bewitched), a low and isolated hilly

headland, topped with large masses of

granite, clifty in its river front,

having in

its

outlines

something of the appearance of a huge monumental

Ponta da Lenha.

THE CONGO.

90 1879.

Aug.

Pontada

To

stone.

21.

the

and on

rear

.

an

stretches

sides

tlie

.

,

r

•

T'

extensivc and low-lying rich

grass

groimd

though the inhabitants

of a

for the hippopotami,

few villages which are

have endeavoured, with

plain, a leeding-

the

in

to

ill-success,

neighbourhood

some

cultivate

ground.

am

In the old sailing days, I

by the

told

cared to approach the neighbourhood

of the

Whether from sheer bewitchment,

Rock. tricities

of the

piquant

when

ever-boiling

Fetish

or the eccen-

tradition

becomes

odd adventures that have

reciting the

befallen the helpless ships

flood,

few

pilot,

;

how

they suddenly were

sheered off their course and curvetted round and round

with lazy see-saw motions of prow and stern, and were

swung

far off after the dance,

slack ropes

and

braces, while the pale

upon one another blankly, and had done this, "for,

for tlien

it,"

my

white

I

with distracted

myself

friend,

men

it

tell

finally

sailors

and

gazed

swore "the d

the pilot that I believe

— all

was a wicked time altogether,

believed that to buy and

black brothers was a

sails

sell

their

work sanctioned by God."

Steamers, however, pay no heed to the contemptible whirlpools, though

upward without a flaw Avater

we

under our

shown

we proceed having now deep

they are noisy, and

keels.

in our coui^se,

Looking round

for wonders,

a feature on the crest of a tall hill

on

the northern shore, said to be the Lightning Stone,

by

are

known as Ma-taddi Nzazzi, and sometimes also Limbu Li Nzambi, the finger of God. It is merely

natives as

the core of the mountain rock, revealed ages ago by

BOMA.

of the soil from the smooth dome-

away

the washiiio°

ni

"^

hke summit, and to-day

it

stands, not a poor resem-

blance to a hghthouse, or some

monumental

Ponta da Lenha brought both Albion and respective barges, alongside the

tlieir

structure.

steaming from

hours of continued

Precisely four

with

Belgiqiie,

wharf of one of

the Dutch factories of Boma.

A few hundred yards from

the pier,

from end

fully seen

shore.

to end,

prin-

curving along the bended

It consists of a congeries of factories, that

number of detached buildings used or

Boma, the

emporium of trade on the Congo, was well and

cipal

is,

a

as stores or sheds,

workshops, flanking the dwelling-house of their

owner, or of the chief factor of some English, Dutch, French, or Portuguese company established in Europe,

which has sent stations

at

as

nov7 in

its

agents to

There were not quite so 1885.

These

The

central depot

is

many

in 1879

have

companies

various

.several factories, especially the

French.

these trading

scatter

every available point along both banks

of the river.

Dutch and English and at

Banana

where

Point,

the goods from the ocean steamers are received, un~ shipped,

stored

tributed

by the

in

central establishment.

tliree first

named

tow

The Dutch

to

dis-

the

possess the Prince

The

are capacious steamers, able to steam

The Morian

of the

and

steamers belonging

is

galliots, ships, barges,

]-)ortions

stores,

Nieman^ Banana, and Morian.

Carl

to Europe.

go-downs or

the

pri\'ate

Jlendrik,

1879.

Aug.

a 40-ton tug, employed to

and lighters

Lower Congo.

to the

upper

The Prince Hendrik

2-2.

Boma.

THE COXGO.

92 1879.

and Carl Nleman

ijroduce from the coast

collect the

Aug.

Bomn.

and

factories,

stated

at

periods

arrives from Eotterdani and ^ladeira to in twenty-five days, and, after a

departs, loaded with rubber,

oil,

short

gum,

nuts, ivory, orchilla -weed, coftee,

steamer

the ocean

Banana Point stay in port,

kernels, ground-

and various other

products.

The English house keeps

its

river and coast steamer,

250 tons, collecting from

the Kahinda,

factories the African produce,

scattered

its

ready for their Liverpool

steamer, the Angola.

The Congo and Central African Company employs irs

river steamer, the Albuquerque, of 250 tons, in the

collection of produce, but this house, I believe, ships

by

the English mail steamers, which call once a month.

The French and Portuguese employ

galliots

or

by

sailing

to these various vessels that ply

up and

schooners, launches, and canoes, and ship vessels frequently. If

down

we add

the Congo, between

Banana and Boma, the native

canoes belonging to the aboriginal chiefs, the Congo

cannot be said to be quite devoid of evidences of

trade-movement. Xotwithstandiug, the general prospect, whether over river or land, satisfied, it

commerce

;

is

not prepossessing

at

your

the eye

probably the

Look

feet,

human

is

dis-

man and

hungers after more evidences of

are shocked, or chilled loneliness.

;

gregarious instincts

by the unaccountable

feeling of

resolutely away, or over the factories

from the crest of yonder

hill,

and you

LONELINESS AND CIIEERLESSNESS. understand why.

will

Tliere

grand sweep of

a

is

93 is79.

Aug.

massive

nnd

hills lifting

falling to the north

undulating line of hilly land

away

stretching

a long

;

visible across iha river,

is

grey distance; there

into the

is

a

mighty breadth of living water slowly moving towards the sea, but I can detect no boat, large or small, just

moment, on any part of

at this present

Over

square miles of surface.

upland and plain,

land, visible

hundred

vast area of

the

all

its

no aspiring tower

I see

or dome, or chimney, nor even the likeness of a

human

Unfortunately not even a column of smoke

structure.

threads through the silent air to suggest the thought

am

All

not alone.

nature, large,

ample,

untouched and apparently unvisited by man.

From

that I

all I

white,

my

may have

can see I

who

been the

first

can turn

to

gaze

my

soil

under

would be the impression of the

this

view only a few miles removed from I

man, black or

has ever stood on the ungrateful

Truly

feet.

is

eyes at will to recall

down upon

the

Boma

my

;

but here

unreal fancies,

consoling and

warm view

of the

Boma

establishments ranged along the northern

bank,

with

their

residences, stores

tall

and

flagstaffs

white-washed

and the long sombre thatched roofs of the

and sheds, with

sufticient

leafy trees scattered

about, and the tapering masts of steamers and sailingvessels,

topped by the gay national

flags, all

combin-

ing to make a pretty picture worth a sketch. .

The

feeling of loneliness

upon above, heavy

is

intensified

lines of hills,

and cheerlessness, touched through iha

fact that the

and broad expansion of

jilain,

lack

22.

Boma,

94 1870.

7777:

CONGO.

the deep dark masses of forest in ever-living exuber-

Aug. 22.

Boma.

.

,

^^^®

ever apt

are

Ave

Avliicii

The grotesque baobabs,

tropics.

their feeble

tabular

of

in

hills,

— August —

no wa^^ compensate

nature

all

and

bits of terraces

general and unlovely nakedness of season

,

thinly scattered Avith

crowns of leafage on

bits

,

with the

associate

to

tlie

appears

view.

for the

At

parched,

this sere,

withered, voiceless, except along the various channels

This almost entire absence of vegeta-

of the Congo. tion

due to

is

fires,

which during every dry season

consume the robust crops of

grass.

It is also attribut-

able to the minute hilly sections into

which the land

has been cut by heavy rains, and the steep and rapid

drainage of every slope and rounded summit which

sweeps away the

de'bris

has had time to affect the

A

month

grass peeps out lo

!

it

soil.

or so later the

aspect appears

and

of dead vegetation before

first

rains

fall,

and the

much more gracious and soft, for the at once young and tender and green

;

the land under the influence of moisture and

temperate sunshine, has been transfigured into a fairer

development.

"When

suff"used witli a vivid green,

softness of

rivals the

it

English Xorthumbria, rejoicing

animal nature, bringing out the birds, and herds of cattle,

and

flocks

of goats, which

before

liad

been

missed from the scene.

When

speaking of African sunshine,

membered

it

must be

re-

that there are different qualities of sunshine.

For instance, there

is

the hard, white, naked, undis-

guised sunshine of Xorth-eastern America

;

there

is

AFRICAN SUNSHINE.

95

warm, drowsy, hazy sunshine

tlie

of

;

of the

Mediterranean.

there

is

African sunshine,

always appears to me, with

all

its

however,

great heat, to be

a kind of superior moonlight, judging from

Once

on scenery.

solemn-looking "

effects

its

or twice in this book I write of I

hills.

only attribute this

can

apparent solemnity to the peculiar sunshine. It deepens the shadows, and darkens the dark-green foliage of the

while

forest,

Its

wan appearance

imparts a

it

effect is a

chill austerity

before

warmed by

it

it

you become

the scene, admire

but your love

is

it

;

it

is

not needed.

it.

more

to

it if

Serene It

plated, but not to be spoken to, for

a voiceless,

it

you

will,

Speak not of grace or of

a passionless serenity.

u[)on

upon

Gaze your utmost on

you may, worship

loveliness in connection with

but

—an indescribable

silence has set its seal

speechless.

as

hill-

Your sympathies

solemnity, a repelling unsociability. are not

or a cold

naked slopes and woodless

reflection of liglit to tops.

is

may

it

be,

be contem-

to

your regard

sphynx-like immobility,

is

fixed

belonging

an unsubstantial dreamland than

to

a

real

earth.

If

you think of

this

attempt at analysing the cause

of this unspeakable loneliness,

upon African truth is

it,

of these

hill-scenes

remarks.

you

when next you gaze

will

You

perhaps admit the

will

perceive

that

it

purely a want of sympathy between you and them,

owing

1879 ^^

Alio*

summer

'•

Enghsh

the

the bright, cheery, purified sunshine

entirely to the strange sunshine.

If

view the same scenes in the months

you doubt (jf

October

^

THE CONGO.

96 1879.

Aug. 22.

Boma.

and Xovember, and bear witness

to tlieir vivid colour-

.

iiig

wrought bj the spring-tide of Nature.

Boma (Mboma)

has a history, a cruel blood-curdling

and woe, and

history, fraught with liorror,

Inhumanity of man

to

man

here for over two centuries by the of black men,

were

by sordid

whites.

by thousands,

purchased

been

has

suffering.

exemplified

pitiless persecution

The

natives formerly

forciljly

expatriated,

enchained by dozens, packed closely in the holds of slave-ships,

and shipped

to the Brazils,

West

and North America, whence they

never

Whole

to carry

have been maintained

fleets

slave traffic,

and have anchored in

The miscellany

this

Indies,

i-eturned.

on the

neighbourhood.

of merchandise, and the stores of gin

and rum in their holds, have induced the people of

Boma

to

seek by

all

iniquitous

means

to gather

the

victims of superstition, folly, ignorance, and of violence

from

parts

all

inland.

As

this evil spread

abroad,

other neighbouring districts, Ponta da Lenha, Nokki,

Mussuko, and their

all

the river and coast towns, despatched

emissaries until there

was not a village

in

the wide space between the sea and the meridian

all

of

Stanley Pool which had not cause to curse the evil that had

suddenly covered the land with mourning

and woe.

Now

do you wonder, as you look about over the

large area of wilderness and sterility, that so

much

of

now covered with mournfully rustling untilled? Had this land but the population

those rich plains, grass, lies

which has grouped

itself in

crowded numbers along

A TERRIBLE PUNISHMENT. Upper Congo and

the

would have been a

upper

its

it

sufficed to

has the few

which

I see

developing

Oh,

if

in the

with eyes inspired by

be redeemed from

its

now

vanished tribes

relics of

resources of the land.

and com-

to tenderness

have stimulated the many, as

honourable industry in

to

for the

sprung np since Britain

moved Europe and America had

modern Boma

affluents,

some magnitude;

city of

legitimate trade which has

passion,

97

faith,

living,

natural

the

coming

the land shall

present torpid deadness

o-eneraticns shall be born

of civilised institutions,

times,

;

when

under the benig-n influence

when

the land has been helped

by the fostering care of a Government, and the plains and the valleys

shall

tlien let that nation that

these regions

old

initiated the

slave-trade in

beware the pen of the Congo poet

Modern Boma, however, one

and plenty,

fatness

in

rejoice

in

1879 could only show

man who knew through personal experience what Boma had been. He, and another living at some

obscure factory lower down, had been guilty two years before of having committed a crime,

even the annals of old

Boma

which

could match.

I

doubt

His

stores

were burnt one night, much stealing of gin and cloth had become

on their unkind master.

necks

with

iron-collars,

through the collar loops, and

which was VOL.

I.

split

this

among

method of

The rove

riveted

the re-

guilty parties

The master caught them,

were discovered. their

dissatisfaction

owned being shown by

slaves he taliation

common — the

a

encircled

short

the

chain

end-link,

purposely, over another link

u

of the

1879.

BomH.

THE CONGO.

98 1879.

Aug.

The

chain near the middle of the gang.

slaves being

22.

Boma.

thus sccured, their hands were bound behind, and then

they were put into a boat and rowed into mid-channel,

where they were hustled over

the

one after

side

another into the river, and, thus chained and fettered,

were soon drowned.

A few hours after death the bodies floated down with the flood, and were stranded

somewhere below on a

sand-bank, to be discovered by Captain Hopkins, H.B. Majesty's Consul, during one of his tours of inspection

and while bound up chain, found the

river,

name

who, on examination of the

of the

owner on

it.

Boma now very

Since the commission of that crime modern

has been free from stain and innocent

—the

forests, kernels

guilt.

Its trade is

butter of the oil-palm, rubber from the

from the

oil-nuts,

nuts from the ground,

copal from old deposits, ivory spoils of the elephant,

&c.,have sufficed to keep the natives busy in the tion of

collec-

them and the barter of cottons from Manchester ;

and Glasgow, woollen-savelist from Rochdale, blankets from Yorkshire, cutlery and guns from

Sheffield

and

Birmingham, crockery and hardware and beads and brass-wire

from various parts of Europe,

rum from Holland and Hamburg,

gin

and

tobacco and fish

from America, have been remunerative to the British, French,

Dutch

and Portuguese

established themselves

in

traders

who have

the neighbourhood

of the

once great slave mart of the Congo.

Granted that some of the traders of modern have not acted always in consonance with the

Boma

strictest

CONTENT OF THE NATIVES. principles of justice

99

and equity in their dealings with

1879.

Aug. 22.

the natives, yet the happy results visible from their influence throughout a

wide area inland prove that

they have more frequently been swayed by the desire to be upright than otherwise.

GKOUP OF NATIVES

— MEN,

As we

note the character

WOMEN, AND YOUTHS.

of the present intercourse between whites and blacks,

we become convinced tliat tlie

that no ill-will exists

;

we

see

natives do not seem embittered or soured, but,

on the contrary, that a pleasant familiarity and confident

the

bearing marks their behaviour as they tread

river

street

of

Boma.

Tliough they would

H

2

be

Boma.

TEE CONGO.

100 1879.

powerless to resist the

a

that

auxiliaries

union of

Aug. 22.

Boma.

traders

could call to

the natives, on

aid,

its

closer

investigation, are found to be secure against tyranny,

and persistent evil-doing of the whites, by

oppression,

the very interests which have compelled the traders to

make

The

homes here by the Congo

their

and sharp competition which

fierce

riverside.

exists

between

the traders to secure the largest trade, and which finds

vent in the undertone of talk at their various tables, supplies

whole

protection for

a better

the

of cruisers could afford.

fleet

The wicked white

man, with foul-mouthed vituperation, tabooed and

known along

character are of

the

boycotted completely.

is

trade

carriers.

ruin

follows,

absolute

away, and the

liberal

A

the

natives than a

is

shunned and

His name and

byways and highways

reduction

which

trade

and

drives

him

of

speedily

and kindly white reaps the

advantage.

The

fear

that the

traders

hardly dealt with compels Missionaries,

who

may have been and other selves far

me

general have been

in to

do them

this justice.

possibly have misrepresented them,

vainly seeking an arcadia at

places.

Boma

Instead of creating one for them-

removed from the busy centres of commerce,

the missionaries follow in the steps of the traders, and

grumble that the traders do not have gained

to the sentiments

sacrifice

what they

by which they them-

selves are governed.

Since 1879

Boma

has considerably increased in

The French Catholic mission has established

itself

size.

on a

NO CLASSIC ASSOCIATIONS.

101

bill

on the river banks, separating the Englisb

.^^^02

factories

from tbe other European emporiums of trade.

Boma.

low

The banks of Crocodile Creek, which serpentines a course

by a low meadow near the lower end of Boma,

have been

On

altered.

the eastern side of the creek

is

the Association Accountant's frame chalet, the property of the International Association, and near the machineshops, coal-sheds, " go-downs," ployes' little village, all of

connects with a

new

On

deep water.

and the coloured em-

which a Decauville railway

iron pier projecting well out into

a breezy plateau a mile

manding an extensive view of the Congo,

is

valley of the

which

able if the

mind

occupied.

is

Boma

side of the creek,

is

know by

I

not by any means disagreeable

;

Lower

to believe that

of

it

Finally,

on the western

extending; two factories

every reason

is

grow more, with what

will

course

experience

nay, rather desir-

being already established, and there

depends

com-

the commodious hospital of the International

Association,' a residence in is

off,

upon

the

development

rapidity

of

the

interior.

The reader mention the

have guessed, by

will

fact, that,

my

omission to

though the Congo in volume

is

equal to the Nile, the Zambezi, and the Niger together, it is

utterly barren of classic associations.

stress

made upon

this

be too great.

Let not the

It is true

that

Livingstone once humorously said that he would not

be made into " black man's pot " for

and dear

sacrifice is

be more tender

it.

not required of us

in dealing

with

it.

As tliis great we propose to

THE CONGO.

102

....

Neither rovino; ancients nor wanderius; moderns of

1879.

Aug.

22.

Boma.

great renoVn have visited nected with

its

name

Congo

who

larly interesting to those

if

we

its

con-

is

history popu-

are not engaged in com-

No

it.

military, naval,

any magnitude

or scientific enterprise of

name,

make

to

merce or some special study of

its

event

nothing has ever been performed

;

in connection with the

with

.

No grand

it.

is

associated

except Tuckey's expedition.

It

has

a dismal local history that arouses a gruesome feeling

when we of many

Ships of war

recall the slave-trading days.

nations have ascended the river

;

they have

anchored for a short time abreast of Boma, and have then sailed away. naval

officers

and other European

British consuls

have

Boma

visited

frequently, and of late

years some have even ventured as far as the lowest

known

of the Livingstone Falls,

English, French, and

Dutch,

as Yellala.

Portuguese traders have made

noble efforts to obtain the largest trade in local produce.

Among

authors

and

wandering

litterateurs,

Captain Richard Francis Burton and Joachim Monteiro are

known

lately

to

have visited the Lower Congo

Mr. H. H. Johnston, a

young

and

;

traveller

of

promise, has written a charming account of his travels to

Bolobo

;

but even the former,

in the art of exhausting

any

who

is

unequalled

topic of interest to him,

has failed to discover one fact connected with the history of the

account of to

this

its

Congo

to

make

a lasting impression

intrinsic worth.

extreme

It is

owing probably

historical barrenness

Camoens' stanza relating

to

it is

on

so often

that the

quoted

:

poet

A FES TILE ISLAND. "

AUi

mui grande

103 1S79.

reino esta de Congo,

"°* """

Per nos ja convertido a fe de Christo, Per onde o Zaire passa claro e longo, Eio pelos antiguos nunca Tisto." Translation. " Here the great kingdora of Congo

lies,

That we converted to Christian faith. By which tlie Zaire flows clear and long,

A The

stream unseen in ancient days." Camoens, Lusiads

Boma

island opposite

V.

has been farmed by the

am

Dutch from the princes of the mainland, and

I

that the gardens are very thriving, and that

European

vegetables take to the

Boma some

In the gardens of

kindly.

soil

have

of the traders

reall}^

distinguished

Oranges, citrons, limes,

themselves in horticulture.

papaws, guavas and pineapples, are among the obtainable in the season potatoes,

tomatoes,

beet, carrots,

;

onions,

turnips, lettuce,

and beans, thrive

growing

owing

to

to

15

feet

fruits

while European and sweet cabbage,

The

sufficiently well.

eucalyptus has also been tested, but after

told

high, to

it

has been found,

perish, probably

an exposed position.

Fresh meat from bullock, sheep, goat, and fowls, including ducks, rice,

may

be also obtained, so that with

wheaten bread, and the help of a good cook, a

European has no cause

to regret

Congo

life,

provided

discretion governs his conduct regarding " pegs,"

and

cold draughts are avoided.

Meantime, while acting as guide

to the reader,

we

must not forget the absent steamers of the international flotilla.

The Albion and Behjique had arrived

simul-

THE CONGO.

104 1879,

taneously, after four liours' steaming from Ponta da

Aug. 22, Bcn.a.

Lenha, but

was

it

fast

upon

11 p.m. before the English

boat Royal was beard puffing bravely, towing the paddle boat

En

Avant, and half an hour later before the Espe-

rance appeared with the 40-foot steel barge.

The whites on board were

hungry, and

terribly

savagely out of humour, but a bountiful repast dulled the disposition which w^as sharp previously for

wordy

All agreed, however, on

neutral

warfare.

tlie

safe

En

ground of blaming the builders of the

these were the days before Flamini's genius

Avant, for

came

to the

rescue and converted an apparently worthless craft into

a marvel of

A

utility.

that evening,

among

the

shorthand reporter present on

raw

lads of

Denmark and

the

young gentlemen from Belgium, might have enabled

me

to publish for public benefit,

and especially

for the

nse of future navigators, the various discoveries

among

and blind water-alleys

sand-bars

made

lovers

;

natural history too might have been highly amused,

of if

not instructed, about the merits of vari-coloured mosquitoes, their size,

Though

I

and the peculiar

know something

effect

of Africa, I

of the bite.

was not aware

of the extent to which susceptible natures could enlarge

Inexperience evidently possesses micro-

trivialities.

However,

scopic powers of enlargement.

a poor

memory

sometimes, and

I fear I

I

have but

cannot rehearse

the stories related that evening with due justice.

The next day

after arrival at

tinues to discharge her cargo,

emptied.

On

Boma

the Albion con-

and the Belgique

the 25th the latter

is

despatched

is

also

down

to

A EECONNAISSANCE. Banana Point

for another caro-o; o '

cleared the Albion, she for the

On

wooden

105

and the 26th, havins; o 7

also despatched

is

huts, lumber, machinery,

the 28th the Albion returns to

decks lumbered and holds

full,

down

the river

and hardware.

Boma, with her

and on the 30th, having

employed the day before in steaming up the Congo explore for a pilot,

she

is

new camp, with

steamed up

four hours above

to

to

a Kabinda native for a

Mussuko on the south bank,

Boma. So convenient was the landing-

place of Mussuko, that

we

could

tie

the steamers along-

side the shore in three fathoms of water.

While cargo was discharged

in afternoon. Captain

George Thompson of the Albion and myself proceeded

up river

in the life-boat

without a

pilot, to

Royal on reconnaissance, and

camp

secure another

when

the goods should

Boma

to

Mussuko, and

if

all

to

move

to

have been brought from

employ the Albion

possible to

s

services to transport the 600 tons of material lying at

Banana Point and Boma.

Two

hours and a half brought us to the

marked Zunga-chya-Idi on Tuckey's being opposite the mouth of the

little

little islet

chart, the island

river Lufu, issuing

from the north shore.

Viewing a

fine

green grassed plateau on the north

bank, about two miles higher up, and which rose some

300

feet

above the river,

we ventured from

near the Lufu and dared the stream.

the cove

Ignorant of the

proper course that ought to have been taken, and having a profound belief in the powers of steam, the

tiny launch for

nearly the

we

steered

centre of the river,

/S'^^-

Aug. 26.

Boma.

THE CONGO.

106 1879.

where we kept her with a

Aug. 30. Mussako.

full

head of steam

for several

.

Now,

minutes struggling against the mighty current. if

you place a

bottle cork in a basin of water,

the water violently about,

little

stir

you may form an idea of the

The

style of current at this particular place.

of the

and

efforts

steamer to make headway in the whirling

bubbling cauldron were

We

frantic.

were swung and

pirouetted about by the volumed force, belched upward, sideways, and as

many

yards back as

in the subsidence of the whirl,

bow

we had advanced

and presently found the

rising before us on an uplifted ridge of water,

we were swept backward

again

to

and

become once more

the slight plaything of the wrathful and tumultuous

"With our faith in steam power considerably

waters.

diminished,

we

retreated, baiSed,

and went racing down

the river towards our camp.

"Wishing to give our worthy skipper a the

game

pleasure of African

little taste

shooting, on

of

arriving

down Palmyra Reach, we searched for hippopotami which we supposed usually haunted half-way

the the

shore near by, for the sake of the succulent grasses that

grew on the low-terraced

disappointed.

A hippopotamus

land.

was

Xor were we

sighted,

body iu

the water, head resting on a bank, either profoundly asleep, or lost in

deep meditation.

" That a hippopotamus " That's a rock,

An

Express

and not the

mun rifle

" cries sea-bred

Thompson.

" !

was

slightest

?

fired into the animal's brain,

movement

followed.

" There," cries the sea-wise skipper.

" I told

you.

iiii

I

iiiwfw'i

111!

I

mi

A DEAD You've

SHOT.

107

rock sure enouo-h o this time.

fired at a

Ain't

you ashamed of yourself?" he asks with a beaming look of triumph. " Well,

we

Gently ahead, boy "

shall see.

coloured engineer

—

to the

and a few turns of the screw

;

brought us aground, which enabled Mr. Thompson,

who was

a jewel of a sea-captain, but a lubber

among

hippos, to distinguish between a hippo's head and a

who was not quite another Thomas Didymus, he had rock

;

in the

but

satisfied

like

until,

buried three fingers

wound.

I will pass over the

complimentary remarks uttered

by George Thompson, Captain of the SS. Albion, and reader by a sketch of the scene that

introduce the followed,

when

the

young Danes and Scotchmen on

the Albion were brought

up

in the whaleboat to

drag

the beast ashore and cut the meat up for distribution

among our

people.

Albert, in a frenzy of delight, carcase, that

how he

he might write

must

to his

first

papa

at

bestrode a hippopotamus, and

bestride the

Copenhagen,

Martin must

spank the broad rump with open hand to grief;

and there

without

peril, of

is

his

own

opening of the jaws to judge,

the cavernous extent, count the solid

molars and gleaming tusks, which could have nipped the strongest

man

in twain

had the beast been

alive,

and many other freaks which curious inexperience prone to indulge

is

in.

Until September

13th, the Albion

ployed, with the Belfjique,

in

was busily em-

conveying the multi-

,^^'^lAug. 30.

Mussuko.

TEE CONGO.

108 1879.

Mussuko,

tudinous

effects

with which we proposed to

effect

a per-

manent lodgment on some unknown point on the north

As

or south side of the river. effects

were brought

fast as the

goods and

to the landing-place at

Mussuko

they were discharged on the shore by relays of our force, while others stored the perishable materials within the factory, the coarser articles being piled in order near the

landing-place.

The SS. Albion of Leith was now

down

leased from river duty, taken

coaled for her long voyage, and sent direct to Europe.

She carried our

the reports of our

wherein

I felt

first

we must

to

re-

Banana Point,

home on letters,

the 17th,

containing

movements up the Congo,

congratulate ourselves

upon the

we had advanced

to our

fact,

that in thirty-four days

first

base of operations about ninety miles from the sea,

with

all

our materials, with our

and every promise of future

flotilla in

success.

working

order,

VIEW UP THE mVEB.

CHAPTER UP THE COXGO

:

109

Till.

FROil BOilA TO VI VI.

—Prince's Island—Burial-place of —Tinda-le-Xzaddi village—Mussuko Number of trading establishments—Xavigation of the Congo for our chief Ultimate point of navigation—Eeconnaissance for a station —Amount of steam-power requii-ed to breast the current us of a — Castle Hill—" Sure, Dedede, the merry clearance— Amiable natives—Features beautiful, this "— A —Access and routes to the station—Arrangements for a of the exploration —The "palaver"— Advantages of the Yivi country; chiefs of Yivi and their men-at-arms — A splendid market for old " clothes — The " palaver — A tight bargain — Congoese shrewdness in — trade—^Lingenji, the boy trader of Bolobo "Are not Yivi and " Nsanda one — The bargain closed.

Buka Island— Chinsalla Creek the

of

oflBcers

Tuckey Expedition

site

site

chief, tells

!

it

fiery

is

district

its

five

?

Viewed from Boma upward we trace tlie direction

are scarcely able to

from which the Congo flows

out into the expansive broad-bosomed stream

to

widen

we have

become acquainted with in our ascent from Banana

The

Creek.

— that

hilly ridges

were not

fifteen miles of

visible

on the north and south shores until

we were within about

Boma, but which had

still

in almost parallel lines witli our course

inland

and

— are

seen to

isolated spurs, or

run easterly

some distance

almost meet just above Boma,

rocky points sharply projected

from the hitherto uniform

lines,

impede the view up

stream.

Steaming upward from the factory-Hned shores of

1879.

-^^^^

no 1879. Sept.

Buka

Is

TEE CONGO.

Boma, and keeping well

off the shore,

we

deflect

course gradually to the rising grove-clad head of Island, or the called

by the

Isle of Crocodiles,

natives.

as

it

Island

we

Chinsalla Creek,

see

Buka

was anciently

The north main shore has curved

in a southerly direction from the east.

Buka

our

on our

left

Approaching

the narrow sinuous

separating the main from

Prince's

IM'^-..^^*

ISLAND OX THE LOWER CONGO.

Island,

and enter a deep channel between the west end

of Prince's and

the

east end of

Buka

Islands.

A

glance at the sketch will show the nature of the vegetation and trees

which clothe the

slopes.

It is this

gap

between the two islands that dispart the Congo into the

two broad branches

Rounding

visible at

we

see the

in one united river towards us

through

Prince's Island

Congo flowing

Boma. to the

east

PBIXCrS ISLAXD.

Ill

upward

1879.

and above Nokki gradually

pence's

a deep trough, the sides of which slope roughly

300

to the height of rise to

feet,

900 and 1100

Confined to the average

feet.

breadth of about 1400 yards,

force

its

is

increased to a

current of four-and-a-half knots an hour, while 150, 200, and even 300 feet soundings are obtained at the

narrower portions. Prince's Island

is

the burial place of several of the

Tuckey Expedition, and

officers of the

buried the remains of the

Boma

in

it

The

chiefs.

are also

river sides

of the islands are clothed in a luxuriant tropical tangle

many

out of which

a palm and

On

arises graceful to the view.

feathered fronds

its

the creek side

may

be found a grassy terrace, over which a narrow path traced

by the

even

the grey rock

;

natives.

Its

summit

is

is

jagged and un-

peeps out bare amid the heads

of vivid crowns of trees,

AVhen we have well passed Prince's the stranger

is

Isle,

enticing enough to lead

the view to

him

to expect

that round the sharp rocky points something unusual will requite

him

for the time

the utter absence of artificial scenes throughout

rude and rough prospect soon makes him seen the view

is

in

no

But

given to the ascent.

way worth

all

feel that

the

once

a second trip.

Those steep slopes of red clay earth thickly strewn witli

grey blocks of stone and quartz

;

those ever repeat-

ing conformations of almost precipitous spurs alternating with gullies scantily green with poor bush those narrow bits of terraces

adorned with a palm

or two, with bluffy river frontage

and long

line

of

is.

THE CONGO.

112 1879.

Mussuko.

dark naked grit-rock, and the deep broad brown-faced river confined witbin

its

rocky bed and sides by two

almost uniform lines of high that

very agreeable

is

is

reach,

is

by the

now on it

is

known

that

is

as Makula,

bleached white,

factories of

and

in the centre

When we is

have swept past

rendered more attrac-

Mussuko, where the concave

is

the southern shore, and the point opposite to

by the curious name of

designation

a

humour on

By

is

the village of Vinda-le-Nzaddi

view up the river

distinguished

Elbow,

upon verges upon

the southern side seen at the end of the

Yinda by the River."

this the long

tive

look

an unmistakable poverty in the

is

of the concave opposite or "

we

are never freed

a visible thirstiness.

The point on first

all

and in August, when the grass

aspect,

there

there

;

We

to the eye.

from a faint feeling that the desolate

cannot offer anythiog

hills,

Fiddler's

which perpetuates a freak of

the part of old Captain Maxwell, 1793.

the time

we have

arrived at Mussuko, the slopes

of the river gorge are perceptibly higher and steeper,

but as

we round

the bend of Mussuko to look up the

river the north shore seems gradually to subside in alti-

tude to a clump of low hill-tops, at the foot of which was

once a village called Sanda Congo. is

known

as

This reach of river

Palmyra reach, from a number of

flourish-

ing palms on the narrow terrace which extends between the base of the hills and the river. The northern here very foul with rocks,

or right side of the river

is

but the southern side

free

is

as far as "

Eock, right opposite Sanda Congo bend.

Diamond

FACTORIES AT NKONGOLO.

By

Diamond Rock, within

skirting

as tlie safer plan,

when

a mile below

113

tliirty ^'ards, or

i879.

Diamond Rock,

xokid.

striking obliquely across the river until well clear of the

troubled waters which impinge upon some rocks near the centre opposite the

Diamond Rock, a

vessel of

any

draught can safely pass upward into the next reach the head of which the factories of

Nokki are

at

fully in

view.

Opposite Nokki, on the north point,

is

now

wliere the International Association have a two-storied chalet

erected

store-houses, but in 1879

only two factories above Boma, that of

there were Scott's at

and some

Nkongolo,

Mussuko, and Faro's at Nokki.

In 1885,

however, there are nineteen establishments (only six of

which are on the north), commercial, philanthropic, between Yellala and

considerably

animated

the

religious,

and

Boma, which have

hitherto

lonely

river

trough.

Although sailing vessel

as far as

the old

in

slave-trading days

many

a

had no doubt ascended the Congo, even

Nokki,

later navigators

had not been

and in 1870 the traders were not confident the

Alhion

could

so bold, in their

ascend as far as

assertions

that

Mussuko,

But now,

up

landing place of Yivi, and a sturdy pilot

to tlie

possessing nerve vessel with a

as to

in 1885, the steamers

and

local

draught of

dash boldly

knowledge may take

fifteen feet to

a

Yivi as easily

Boma.

On

the 26th of September the quick and 2:»owcrful

steam-launch Esperance having been prepared, VOL.

I.

I

was

THE CONGO.

114, 1879. Sept. 26.

Xokki.

steamed

from Mussuko landini^-place

ui) t

.

at 1.30 p.m.,

.

with provisions enough on board to feed a party three wliites and ten colom-ed

men

more deU-

a

for

of

berate and final reconnaissance which should fix for

ever the ultimate point of navigability, and the

site for

the principal station of the Comite d'Etudes du

At

Congo.

2.20 p.m.

we

Haut

passed Nokki, and the

first

view of the reach before us proved clearly that the river trough

canon, to

for,

was now assuming the appearance of

from immediately behind Nkongolo station

the end of the reach, the north bank

gradually rising from 600 feet to 1000

verge of which there the water.

is

The south

is

feet,

though

cliff

from the

almost a sheer drop shore,

a

lofty

down

to

behind

sweep down gradually

to the Point

The Esperance passed rapidly upward

close to the

Nokki, appears of

a

to

Tunduwa.

bank

in almost

water, her speed increasing as

still

drew near Tunduwa Point owing

Keeping within ten

we

to the

back current.

3'ards of the shore,

we turned up

the reach leading to Yivi_, to breast which current as it

rushes

down

the narrowed canon requires nine-knot

power, otherwise

ing further.

At

it

will be useless to attempt journey-

the foot of the Yivi reach, the river

scarcely 600 yards wide,

possibly 300 feet.

is

though of an unusual depth,

Confined within this narrow gullet,

and before emjDtying into the broad-like expansion called Mayumba Bay, which bathes the base of the cliffs just mentioned, the river in the centre acquires great force,

and has

too swift a current to be attempted

by any

CASTLE HILL AT VIVL

But by

ordinary nine-knot steamer.

415 clino'ino-

within ,

.

.

biscnit-throw of the south shore, and watching sharply

the curve of the point, the steamers of the Association

and the Kahinda of 250 have been able

tons,

and the Morian of 40

master the

to

difficultv.

tons,

But there

is

no reason why a 5000-ton steamer .should not pass she possessed sufficient power, and was handled

and experienced

intelligent

As we ascended again, and

if

by an

pilot.

along the southern shore the current

slackened

perceptibly

as

the

river

we made good headway.

widened

slowly

Half way up the

reach, from abreast of a low green grassy terrace,

we

struck across the river to the north side and crept

up

without

difficulty to the

mouth of the Lufu River, which

separates Ichimpi and Chionzo District from that of

Tivi.

It

being 5 o'clock

side of the

Lufu on Yivi

we encamped on

the eastern

make

a thorough

territory, to

inspection on the morrow.

Calavanga Islet, mentioned by Tuckey, lay just below us a hundred yards into a whirlpool of

sounded

its

in full

;

its

a

which Tuckey 's punt disappeared

the

Nomaza Cove,

view nearly

(Rocky Point) steep

of Yivi

—

wild moaning unchanging rhythm almost

abreast of us is

The smaller rapids

oil".

;

of the same navigator,

opposite, just above

and some 000

mount now known

feet

Mataddi Point

above us towers the

as Castle Hill,

on account of

when seen from proved that we were iu

slight resemblance to a castle wall

camp

above.

As

it

finally

close vicinity to the site of our future greatest entrepot, \'ivi,

I

]nay as well, then, summarise the time that I

2

i879. Sept. 26.

1

y;,.;

THE CONGO.

IIG 1879.

will be

employed by

Sept. 26. yivi.

Banana Creek

\

a nine-knot steamer steaming .

to Tivi

:

H.

from

DE-DE-DE PROPOSES A

Xot

minutes later

five

we

SITE.

117

\Yere in the seventy-foot

i879. Sept. 27.

On

channel struggling up bravely.

Avicle

few yards

off

was the central body of the

into a watery ridge

our right a

river,

heaved

which every minute dissolved into

a congeries of whirlpools, and colliding glassy masses

became involved

that presently embraced wildly, and

under the vexed surface, and ever and again upheaved

anew

in circular

mounds which

down by

rolled

pres-

sure from above into the broader quieter water below.

On

our

left

was a number of rocky

forming

islets

little

nooks and watery recesses at the present low stage of the river, but which during high water are covered

with spray, and have to bear the rage of many strong streams seeking reunion with the parent flood from w^hicli

we kept sounding constantly and

pole

With a

they have for a time been parted.

channel, to be informed of

emerging

its

carefully this deep

future utility.

after a short time, w^e sped

rate through

an undisturbed river

long-

on

to a

Thence

at a quicker

broad sandy

landing-place at the foot of an isolated level-topped spur, projected straight river-ward

Castle Hill.

The river-head of

cipitously

down

feet, as I

guessed,

1

00

we

feet, its

dropped pre-

depth of over 300

eastern side to a depth of about

western side to the sandy beach on which

with a long sweeping slope.

stood,

It

this hill

to our standpoint, a its

from the slope of

was

at the base of this cliff-faced

IVowned

so

proposed

we

emporium

grim and

silent

above

us,

rock, which

that De-de-de'

should take up our position and build an

to whicli all tlie

world of Inner Africa could

vivi.

THE CONGO.

118 1S7'.'.

come and

Sept. 27. vivi.

A

sand

one luuidred yards lon^" & yards deep, which to our strange eyes led

trade.

i)lot,

c/

.

and

fifty

nowhere except

to a grassy forest

some

fifteen feet high,

up that

or back again to the deep forceful river, or

tall,

upright grim rock "

Which way, my

"

Why

friend De'-de-de

cut the grass

away and

" ?

Sure,

Imild.

it

is

beautiful, this !" he replied.

So we it

set fire to the grass, for in its present density

was not penetrable.

Piercing

it

with a score of ten-

fathom-long tongues of flame, in an hour the

running wild up the slopes of Castle

fire

was

had gone

Hill,

raging clear over the western slope and summit of the high

bluff

and dipped into the

valley on

little

the eastern side, where, sheltered from the wind, dallied

it

and smouldered.

Meantime we had enjoyed our morning meal, and reminded of what a wise "

Honour

sable,"

plunged up the steep slope before

feet, so

later,

We

Two

after

ascent of

isolated hill.

the struggle of the

found ourselves on a curious platform,

250 yards long by 45 yards wide, almost

river.

once,

our aneroids and boiling apparatus proved

The view we obtained was worth

habitable,

and

us,

we had made an

and had surmounted the

ascent.

uttered

him who makes a road through the impas-

to

a short but severe struggle,

343

man had

with

improvements, 343

sides of

it

feet

level,

and

above the

—the river and the eastern—were

absolutely unclimbable

;

on the western

though a road might improve

that,

it

was

tedious,

and from the

VIVI STATION.

landward end of

it

119

steep to about

650

which bounded

this platform

feet higher.

stiffly

iS79.

Across the ravine,

yivi.

on the

east,

was a nobler

plateau, probably a square mile in surface,

me envious. From a rocky whence

I

up

the Castle Hill sloped

which made

coign overlooking the river, and from

viewed the whole as on a map,

DOWN THK HIVEU

I

began to

I-K(»M VIVI.

study the value of this platform, and rehearsed to self

what

I

wished to discover.

I

had fancied

want a place easy of access from the

sea, a

my-

I should

neighbour-

ing population of a conciliatory tendency, salubrity of position

;

a spot

could be made.

whence a

feasible route to the interior

"While pondering over the problem,

some of the aborigines from

Cliiusalla, a village in a

THE CONGO.

120 1879.

Ijollow

to

the

left

larger plateau, presented

of the

?ept. 27.

vivi.

my

themselves before me, and ere long I had one of ideals resolved

on their

fested I fiir

turned

by the unmistakable

amiability mani-

features.

my thoughts

again to the river.

Mayumba Bay and Tunduwa

as

up

to the

gigantic mountain mass of

of the

river-front

cliffy

Point,

Do"\vn as

Palaballa, the wliole of the

south bank was visible.

Xu-ampozo River, opposite

to

where

over rock and boulder in

its

the Congo.

Xomaza Cove

from us in an

air-line,

of

Tuckey was 1500 yards

the river in

river, Avas the

of the same altitude as the .served

;

hill

its

On

narrowest part our side, begin-

broad terrace of Tivi,

from whence we ob-

then came the ravine of Nkusu, with a dry

stream-bed in

bottom

its

;

then our

into an amphitheatral sweep,

more

whitening

steep bed, tumbled into

here was about 000 yards wide.

ning from above

I stood,

hill,

islets.

bottom rose Castle

Hill,

it

bristling with

Behind or north of 950

down

which would have been

useful but for the river-front of

irremovable rocky

sloping

feet high,

this

low

whose curious

rocks near the summit in detached horizontal layers

resembled antique and decayed walls.

Bounding, on

the west, the amphitheatral sweep at the base of Castle Hill, rose the

on

this

very

jagged buttress whence we had hill

;

first

gazed

while beyond and below this flowed

the Lufu into the covelet fronted by Calavanga

islet,

and from the narrow Lufu River rose in a grand mass the large unbroken

and stupendous Chionzo Plateau,

on the airy summit of which we saw a grove of palms,

ADVANTAGES OF QUE waving, wc were

Taking view

and

was not an uninteresting

and the

But

artistic will

had come

I

be appreciated according as

For was

Insalubrity

— what

The

I could find,

here, on this comparatively

narrow rock

the quick drainage that

was needed.

all

—whence

could

must be

station

left

far inland

;

this position will be almost

Accessibility

from

route into the interior

The

accessibility

if

anything

the

certainly

impregnable. sea-ward

of

Feasibility

?

?

must be provided

naval sloop into yon

in the days of steamers

hat current without

may

for

If

by a more

Tuckey could

Nomaza Cove,

we

surely

drive our Belgi(]ue through

impediment or

trouble.

And

for a route into tlie interior, I think that will de})end

own

industry, though

it

looks

—hemmed

in as

are by that massive 1100-fect high ridge of Tivi

dubious and a

?

defensible

is

flint-locks,

thorough exploration of the waters. sail his

artis-

forget not to provide that,"

only armed with

against people

The

?

with a small garrison while

Well,

whispered prudence.

arise here

it

lower river can match this

spot on the

you wander

our

I

of none to compare with the pjresent one for

pkitform,

I

suits

had reserved

sites I

comparison with the very highest

salubrity.

"

it

;

interest.

knew

tic

dis-

for practical purposes

Mentally reviewing the various for

have

features that I could well

silent

pensed with.

my

it

there was a certain solemnity about the massive,

;

bold,

121

over the village of Icliimpi.

told,

together

all

it

POSITIOX.

difficult task.

as

on

we

—

1879. Sept. 27.

yj^i

THE CONGO.

122

But, before deciding, I will liave a look at the ap-

1879. Sept.

2'

Vivi.

proaches to that larger terrace from the river side I

;

and

must have a touch at the bottom of those wild waters

and of the north and south channel again.

Nkusu ravine, the now dry bed

scended into the us;

we

crossed

a

of

hundred it,

and,

So we defeet

below

making our

NATIVE HOUSE WITH A FAMILY GROUP.

way up a high tangled mass of tall grass and reeds, we arrived panting on the longer terrace. After a rough survey we again descended to the river, and the huge rock masses there

visible

cessibility entirely extinguished

and the general inacour hope that

our small force of labourers, could render

it

we_, witli

easier of

ARBANGING FOB A

''

123

PALAVEIl.''

Then

access witliin a reasonable period. ^

Massalla, the

Hngster of Chinsalla village, in the hollow north of the terrace, invited ns to his house, and, while partaking of

his hospitable draughts of fresh palm-juice, to the gossipy revelations he

of Yivi

were

district.

five

listened

made regarding the

chiefs

learned that there

whom

had a village and

was independent of the

who dwelt with

we

From him we each of

chiefs,

his

other,

though Yivi Mavungu,

immediate dependants upon the

highest crest of Yivi mountain, was the acknowledged senior.

The deep

umbrageous

cool shade of the

trees, the

the effervescing draught of palm juice, the ami-

effect of

ability of the villagers, the visible signs of the fertility

of the its

soil all

around the small village and between

dwarfed dwellings, were

affections,

creating

a

encroaching upon

fast

liking

the

for

locality,

my and

sapping that cynical indifference with which I had at first

associated Yivi with the scene of our preliminary

labours.

Would Massalla be good enough of Yivi at our

to collect the chiefs

encampment near the

hold a " palaver"

?

summit of Castle

I

landing-place, to

would meanwhile ascend

Hill,

take

a

to the

wider view around,

descend again to the steamer, and with the Ksperance, a

sounding-lead,

sufficient

and

long

sounding-pole,

survey for present uses.

To

make a

this proposition

Massalla, encouraged by the friendly females Avho

thronged about

A

stifl'

climl)

us,

up

had

gave a willing assent. a steep

1879. Sept. 27-

rugged

infliuo to another

vivi.

THE coy 00.

124 1879.

terrace or platform, 150 feet hio-lier tLan the first ® '

-^

Sept. 27. Vivi.

we

had explored, and a longer, steeper ascent, lasting over half an hour, brought us just beneath the bluff rock

walls

we had compared

to

minutes later brought us

an old

to the

few

crown of the Olympian

As

height dubbed Castle Hill.

A

castle ruin.

the eye swept rapidly

over the view of massive and glorious sweeps of laud

and numberless detached

hills,

with the winding Congo

a thousand feet beneath us, the cool breeze fanning our perspiring faces hot from the ascent,

repaid in some degree for the land, with its rude

and bold

toil

we

felt

ourselves

of coming.

For the

irregularities of lofty hills

and profoundly deep ravines, the general admirable careless disorder, in

agencies^

which

it

had been fixed by potent

and worn by ages of hard baking and

tropic

rain-storm, the whole being lightened by the broad

waving band of pect which

upon

its

won from

But

solemn melancholy beauty.

the copious wealth

rejected

through

intrinsic value,

a pros-

us an ungrudging compliment

The

the quality of fixing the affectrons.

had

made

silvered water beneath,

its

of

it

had not

churlish soil

water,

and

merciless ruggedness,

its

and

the departing water had revenged itself by washing

away every season had large

bit

of vegetable

left for its

patches

of

humus

that

nourishment, while

brick-red

ungrateful

each dry it

exposed

clay,

inter-

spersed amid equally large patches well strewn with quartz.

The

larger

terrace

near

Chinsalla

us appeared adapted for cultivation

villao-e

below

and settlement.

SURROUNDINGS OF

VIVA.

judging from our examination of

ground of

form below us looked the

fold of plat-

like a short pier projected

from

extending

slope

ample

The rocky

formed a

wliicli it

tlie

125

from

part.

us

for

the

To

throwing a bridge across the Congo.

purpose

of

the westward

the noble outline of Chionzo Plateau spread as far as

the eye could note in gentle waves of grass-covered

SKETCH MAP OF

land,

groves ridge,

VIVI.

topped here and there by palmy clusters or of-

cottonwood.

now

hundred

like a giant

feet

hiMier

Behind

us, or

northward, Vivi

mountain hump, two or three than

Hill,

Castle

was

fully

revealed as above.

Along

its

spine were scattered

a

few

tall

groves,

i879. Sept. 27. vivi.

THE CONGO.

120 1879. Sept. 27. vivi.

under whose shade we knew, dark

were nestled the

later,

peoj^le of Yivi.

In imagination I supposed myself planted on the larger plateau within the loop formed by the mountain

masses of Yivi ridge and Castle Hill on one

half,

and

the river, deep down, forming the sides of the other lialf.

It

prisoned within

towards

me

appeared to

the

it

though

as

I should be im-

a means of exit were not found

if

I

interior.

therefore

rose

and strode

rapidly along the spur of Castle Hill, climbed up the

easy gradient to the higher Yivi ridge, where from a

commanding

spot I obtained a view of a land whose

noble scene was most impressive. I

now began

for the first time to

the topographical situation.

Yiva ridge

The

declines easily along

tending from

down

it

slope facing inland of

;

one of the spurs ex-

to the valley of the Loa, a tribu-

tary of the Lufu, whose course

a cleavage of a tableland ridge, and, joined

grasp the details of

is

from the northward in

down towards

by the Loa,

it

the foot of Yivi

winds through a rocky

and narrow ravine, along the base of the slope of Castle Hill, to

empty

in front of

Galavanga

forming an unmistakable divisional district

and the

Plateau. line of the

line

great, broad, tabular

—thus

between Yivi

mass of Chionzo

The parted plateaus caused by the sunken Lufu

offered in their

expanding wide

nothing very terrible or unpromising of a wagon-road cut

islet

over them

;

the

by the Loa, was equally good.

examined the

scene, I

levels

to the formation

plateau of Kulu,

As

I

critically

judged that the valley of the

ACCESSIBILITY OF THE STATION.

Loa was

on

plateau,

of

miicli

the

same

altitude

near which the

or

127

as

Chinsalla

might

station

first

possibly be constructed, and a road skirting the con-

tour of Castle Hill ridge leading from

platform

seemed

examined,

first

or

the

the pier-like

Chinsalla

feasible.

The mind works rapidly and eagerly wdien is

terrace,

As

excited.

fast as the

its

eye searched for

interest

all

these

details

the

mind leaped

viewed

tlie

completed station, the broad, well-travelled

into the

future.

I

already

turnpike-road, the marching columns of tradespeople,

the stream of

traffic,

and the incessant moving But, alas

fro of multitudes.

when

!

the

to

and

memory

re-

verted to the scanty band of labourers which were

awaiting

my

the fact that

decision, I could not conceal

from myself

these bright scenes were unreal isable

all

and impossible through our poverty of labour-power.

An

hour's descent from

my

wind-swept altitude

turned us to our encampment on the sandy beach at base of the pier-platform,

fullj-

retlie

fatigued, though, after

the hunger was satisfied and the limbs rested a short time,

my

interest

the last problem sea

was now excited by the

— that of

— solved before

accessibility

desire to see

by river from the

the chiefs of Yivi should assemble

to discuss the political questions.

Accordingly we proceeded in the Esperance straight into the stream.

we had

Turning her head down the channel

ascended, and, shutting off steam,

witli the current,

we

floated

sounding quickly with a twelve-foot

pole on either side of the bow, while witli a similar

i879. "

y'iyx

THE COXGO.

128 1879.

pole

other soundings were taken at the stern

;

and,

Sept. 27. Vivi.

having reached Calavanga

up

islet,

we

for another course of soundings

ourselves with the

turned her head

and

to familiarise

steamed up

VTe then

channel.

along the shore, and with pole and line ascertained the depth up as far as the turn leading to Upper Tivi

Rapids cliffs

;

then across the river to the foot of the might}^

above the Nuampozo River on the south

side.

Judging that the depth about here must be unusual, twenty yards

frora the bouldery base of the cliff I cast

Another

ray line, and found fifteen fathoms. seventy-five or eighty yards from

of line vanished, and, though

my

stream, I discovered that

me much a

little

to

—a

we were

long length

down upward of

floating

line floated

we would have to steam ahead keep up with it and when brought up rigid

faster, so that

;

I found the lead

beneath.

it

cast at

I

was inextricably

measured what was

fixed in the rocks

left in

the boat, and

perceived that there must be a depth of ninety fathoms of water

at

this

spot.

connection with this

:

We

viz.,

discovered two facts in

that there

was a strong

under-current of water flowing up stream in this bend,

while the surface-water flowed downward, and that the bottom, deep as

it

was, was covered with great rocks,

which could only be caused by a yet greater depth midstream and below, which prevented the deposit of alluvium there.

Our

last piece of water-exploration

was performed by

descending with the current along the south shore from just below the

Nuampozo

covelet.

T\"e

found that by

MEETING TEE CHIEFS OF VIVL keepino; well in shore, ,

boisterous waters

awav from

/

m the .

.

129

the vicinity of the

"^

centre, that the river

fectly clear to a great depth,

and that

was no

locally experienced there

for the

was

per-

helmsman

difficulty to

hinder

the navigation of any ship possessing greater power

than the current.

At 4

we

P.M.

returned to our camp on the beach

(having exhausted ten hours in very useful work), to

meet the

five chiefs

of Yivi

district,

who, encircled

about by about two score of armed men, and led out to

me by

the smiling Massala, were in due order and

according to precedence introduced to me.

No.

the senior lord of Yivi,

1,

vungu

of

Banza Yivi, sou of

name, stood an

by name Yivi Ma-

his father of the

out, short of stature

and

club-footed,

affected scowl of defiant truculency,

same with

which he had

intended for one of bland amiability, dressed in a blue lackey's cotton,

No.

coat,

a knit Phrygian cap of vari-coloured

and a lower-cloth of gaudy pattern. 2,

Ngufu-Mpanda, of Banza Sombo, a hale old

man with gray

hair

—a

veritable

Uncle

English red military tunic, a brown clotli

Tom — in

felt hat,

an

an ample

of check pattern round the lower portion of his

body, anklets of brass wire, and a necklace of elephant hair

wove through a few

fetish

relics for

good

luck.

Like Yivi Mavungu, he brought his hand up to his hat, bent his body in a not ungraceful salutation,

and

" scraped a leg " like a sailor.

No.

3,

Kapita, a humorous-looking elder, of short

height, befrocked in a dark blue soldier's coat, a good

VOL.

1.

1879. Sept. 27.

•

1

,

K

yj^^i,

THE CONGO.

130 1879.

round his lower

cloth

half,

and neck

ankles

beinsr

Sept. 27. vivi.

adorned in a fashion similar to the above-mentioned. After a salute, which likewise was an imitation of a sailor's,

No.

he retired to make room for Yivi Nku,

4,

hilarious in manner, cloth frock-coat

encircled

who was

not very sober, but rather

and degraded

and black

in feature, in a black

silk hat,

and his nether parts

by an ample robe of crimson

savelist.

No. 5 was Benzani Congo, a handsome, well-formed

young man, to a

London

in a dark

brown coat which belonged once

club, a nether robe of spotted blue cotton,

neck, ankles, and wrists ringed around with brass wire.

The men-at-arms were not

bad-looking.

of trade had sufficed to furnish

of either printed

outfits

them

cottons

or

all

The

with decent

unbleached do-

mestic, while a striped cotton cap of jaunty

pattern

was sported by nearly

preferred the English

were

flint-locks,

Short as was

felt

all,

profits

Phrygian

except a few

or straw hat.

who

Their weapons

branded " Tower."

my view of this

concourse of Yivi abori-

gines, I foresaw a brilliant future for Africa, if

by any

miracle of good-fortune I could persuade the dark millions of the interior to cast off their fabrics of grass

clothing and don the second-hand costumes visible, say, in Whitechapel.

old clothes

!

See what a ready market

The garments shed by the

lies

here for

military heroes

of Europe, of the club lackeys, of the liveried servants of

modern Pharaohs, the

chant, or a Rothschild

these

my

publishers,

;

frock-coats of a lawyer, mer-

or perhaps the grave garb of

may

here find people of the rank

A MABKET FOR OLD CLOTHES. of

Congo

cliieftainsliip ,

to

wear them, and

.,

.

.

131 strut about

^n grande tenue while on ceremonious visits.

Since this period

my

vivi.

views have been confirmed by

larger experience, and I have seen

dark Africa's sons who would not

many thousands

feel it to

of

be a dero-

NATIVE CHICKEN SELLER.

gation of their dignity to wear the cast-off costumes of the pale children of Europe, but would put themselves to

some

little

trouble to gather

1879. Sept. 27.

.

enough raw produce

give in legitimate exchange for them, that they

wear them rightfully and nobly.

K

2

to

may

THE CONGO.

132 1879.

And now

—some

on native mats,

Sept. 27. vivi.

over a

laid

,

lar2;e

,

space under the shade of a wide-spreading tree chiefs are seated in the fore-ground

decorously behind,

;

Massala,

at a respectful distance are the men-at-arms.

the lingster or spokesman,

Mavungu

and a clever

requested by scowling Vivi

is

the words

address

to

interpreter, learned in the English as well

complimentary form, as thus

We,

them

to

me

very

in

:

big chiefs of Vivi, are glad to see the

the

mundele

(trader, formerly, but

white).

If the

now

applied to every

mundele has any wish

country as Massala informs

and

me

of welcome to

as in the dialect of Yivi, conveys

"

—the

we

us,

to settle in our

welcome him,

shall

Let the mundele

will be great friends with him.

speak his mind freely." I replied

" State that I

:

so kindly to the

much.

I

am

glad to hear them speak

white man.

want ground

To-day

to build

my

I

do not want

houses, for

about to build many, either here or elsewhere.

ground enough, Vivi

fields.

is

if I

the right to say

there that

is

is

it,

to

not good for that

but what I do get

At Boma

can get

I

want

for

I

want

make gardens and unless I go far up

myself and people, and

what white man

shall

come near me.

the chiefs have cut the ground up small

no room

why

I

for

me.

I

necessary, and

all

men

to

make

I

want

go inland,

roads wherever

allowed to pass without interruption. say,

to

it is

by those roads must

that pass

hand on them and

;

want plenty of room, and

have come up here.

and must have the right

lay his

am

I

*

No

be

chief must

This country

is

mine

;

CONSULTATION OF TEE CHIEFS.

133

me something give me gin, or cloth, or so many guns.' You have heard of me, I know, for De-de-de, wlio is here, must have told you. What I saw on the road to Boma must not be repeated here. You have pay

;

no roads in your country. rocks,

bush If

life.

and there at Banza Yivi

;

you and

am going told you,

It is a wilderness of grass,

I can agree, I shall

to stop here to-night

and

homeward, taking with them

my

begged

I

all that.

think of what I have

;

together they returned De-de'-de'

and Massala, the

friends of 1877,

of the chiefs

change

and speak."

consultation

little

the end of all

To-morrow you can return

I will listen.

at the third hour of the day,

After a

is

for,

and Nsakala,

Each

lingster.

and received, a

of

bottle

gin.

About half-an-hour before aware of a curious

sunset

we were made

structure, like a broad

the middle of the stream

high

raft, in

about a mile below, that

vomited forth black volumes of smoke, and seemed rooted to the spot. it

as the

En

glass I could distinguish

Avant, which had

way

accountable

Through a

to ascend so far

managed

in

some un-

on an errand that

we

could not divine, unless some calamity had happened

during

my

absence at the camp.

liver eager to

know

Again

I

sjDed

the cause, only to find that the

boat had come thus far in the effort to bring 1)0X of

goods

I

had vainly been

leaving Mussuko. in

m}'

first

down

One

of the

in

search

me

a

of before

Zanzibaris employed

reconnoitring trip had

shown

tlic

way;

and, with the scientific help of the chief engineer of

1879.

vivj,

THE CONGO.

134 1879.

the

flotilla,

the

En

Avant had disclosed her dormant

Sept. 27. ViTi.

eapahilities.

After hours of cold dispassionate arguments with

myself that night, while seated on the sand in the moonlight, I came to the conviction that I could not better

my

directed,

choice of position, but that industry well

and plans vigorously pursued, might vastly

tOXGO FKOM LAKDIXG-PLACE, YIVI.

improve what Nature had so carelessly I

in disorder.

left

then retired to a sound and well-deserved

rose next

mind

morning

alert

rest,

and

at daybreak, to pace the shore with

and busy

—too bnsy indeed considering the

smallness of the force of

men with whose

assistance I

proposed to perform such marvels. Punctually to the time appointed the Yivi their

armed retinues appeared tricked out

fashion's garb, second-hand military

chiefs,

in

and lackey

and

Congo coats,

THE PALAVER. and gay

All

cottons.

The mats were

men were

tlie

unrolled,

135

sober and cleanly.

and the decorous demeanour

when

palaver was assumed,

suited to the important

suddenly at a signal from the lingster, the salute

was

given, none rising until the senior in rank had risen,

bowed, and resumed his

The conference describing

how

seat.

bv the

bep^an

Massala,

the chiefs had gone home, and con-

sulted together for a long time if

linsrster,

they had agreed that

:

the Mundele would stay with them, that of

land unoccupied by villages, or

should

make

make

as

that

I

my

many

choice,

roads,

should

as

many "

be considered as the

man

district,

and inland down

out permission from

me

to the

within the district of Vivi

work, and the people of

;

any of

my

"

;

of

Banza

to the

in

;

employ

anybody, white or

and

fro

through the

and day, without

any disagreement should

people, wliite or

my

such as liked, should

V^ivi,

land, should do so freely, night if

Mundele

Loa River, with-

man

black, native or foreign, passing to

;

I liked

help should be given for

engage themselves as workmen

hindrance

and

no native chief of inland

;

should molest any

or river-side

I

should put foot on Yivi

which stretched from the Lufu up

Kulu

houses,

and do any kind of work

Yivi, and no other white soil,

and gardens,

fields

and build

the

all

black,

arise

and the

let or'

between jieople

of Yivi, they, the chiefs, would promise not to try and

revenge themselves, but bring their complaint before
Mundele' of Yivi, that he might decide upon the

1872.

yi^.j

136 1879.

right and the

vivi.

were caught

man

sljall

wrong

THE

C'OXGO.

of

;

it

and

if

any of

their people

doing wrong, then the white

in the act of

promise that his chief shall be called to hear

the case against him, and

pay the

chief shall

the crime

if

proved, the

is

fine according to custom.

" All this," continued Massala, " shall be set

writing, and

you

shall

straight to us.

tell

what the

it

shall read

it,

and the English

But

first

down

in

lingster

we must

settle

chiefs shall receive in return for these con-

cessions."

Now the

territory of Yivi consists of twenty square

miles at the utmost.

Its productive part

was already

occupied and cultivated, with the exception perhaps of

500

acres.

The

rest

was

dry river course, jagged too It

all

mountain, rock-strewn slope,

hill-tops,

and patches of terraces

much torn up by winding nullahs to be made useful. was mostly barren, mean, worthless. But then I,

like the traders, dis-trict.

was not

in search of

an agricultural

needed a port, a point of debarkation for

I

Being the Ultima Thule of navigation,

the interior.

labour being so scarce, and the bold sloping walls of the cailon being continuous and so relentlessly high, I

must needs accept the energy attempt to tame

position, its

and by industrious

prevailing wildness, and

put a veneer, however thin, on the 2}resent undoubted riiggedness.

the sake of for

As

fact, therefore, it

was

for

what a road from Yivi might promote, not

what Yivi

were made.

a matter of

in

itself

was worth, that negotiations

CONGOESE SHREWDNESS IN TRADE. In the manao'ement of a baro'ain

137

should back the

I

isro. Sept. 27.

.

.

.

.

Congoese native against Jew or Christian, Parsee or

Banyan, in

may

the

all

round world.

Unthinking men

perhaps say cleverness at barter, and shrewdness

in trade, consort not with their unsophisticated condi-

tion

and degraded customs.

very

last

man

or

trade.

Red

a

Apply

the term

Indian, but

trader on the

is

I

tricks of trade in

it

if is

my

you please

an

to

seventeenth year of acquaint-

an hour than the cleverest European

Congo could do

whether he

Bateke

tribes,

is

named

There

Lingenji,

is

who

out of a pound's worth of

profit

Therefore

native,

in a month.

six,

an English boy of

£10 worth.

to yourself or to

utterly inapplicable

boy at Bolobo, aged

cloth than

to

have seen a child of eight do more

would make more

of

knowledge of how

in connection with the

ance with him.

little

the

is

term I should ever apply to an African child

African, and this

a

Unsophisticated

fifteen

when

would make out

I write of a Cono-o

of the Bakongo, Byyanzi, or

remember

to

associate

him with an

almost inconceivable amount of natural shrewdness,

and power of indomitable and untiring

chaffer.

Four hours were expended before the bargain was concluded, and I found myself obliged to pay in cloth and a rental of

£2 per month.

£32 down

The papers

confirming this agreement were drawn up in due form,

and signed by the respective parties concerned

in

the

ti'ansaction.

The following quotation from

my journal

that even-

vivi.

TEE CONGO.

138 1879.

ing sums up this day's "work truthfully, and even now,

Sept. 27.

x\y\,

with larger knowledge of the

provement

am

" I

tiations.

locality,

not

much im-

needed.

is

we have

glad

My

so happily concluded the nego-

friend De-de-de of

Nsanda pleaded and

argued hard, so much so indeed that Yivi Mavungu

became suspicious

warmth and

action,

Nsanda one

why

Yivi

?

?

We

'

Yivi

of each

at the feet

which caused De'-de-de

at last,

chief,

to fall

with finely affected

crying out,

*

Are not Yivi and

should I seek to do hurt or

harm

to

had the usual scenes of loud applause and

silence in the court."

am

" I

not altogether pleased with

has been most expensive in the is

It

high.

my

place,

first

purchase.

and the rent

However, necessity has compelled me

the highest point of navigation of the

is

opposite

which

landing-place

is

a landing could

It

to

it.

Congo

The

be effected.

scarcely 300 yards long, but if the

shores ^vere improved

by

levelling, available

room

for

ships could be found for 1500 yards. "

The great

of the

with

difficulty is to

hill slopes,

be found in the steepness

though engineers and

effective tools

skilled

workmen

would make light work of

city of 20,000 inhabitants

it.

A

might be accommodated on

the larger plateau, with sufficient landing conveniences. It

ought

is

impregnated

to be healthy (unless the air exhaled here

machines for

bloom

with

lifting

like a garden.

malaria),

and with hydraulic

water to the I

plateau

it

might

have not as yet measured

its

CHINSALLA VILLAGE. actual

extent of level,

139

but I should say from

my

1879. Sept. 27.

memory

it

must be a mile long by half a mile

Chinsalla vilJage

wide. this

that

and the

Mountain

;

and

it

and

fields."

first

around

is

in a gentle hollow between

spring of the land rising to Yivi it

palms

flourish, cool

water

is

found,

possesses quite an acreage devoted to gardens

vi^-,,

140

TEE CONGO.

CHAPTER THE FOUNDING OF VIVI An

:

IX.

A STORY OF WORK.

—

work " He makes his mark, and many marks make The signal given Work offered to the natives their astonishment Road-making Transport of stores Mapping the sites of houses 1 gain the name of BvJa Matari, " Breaker of Rocks" Garden-making Duration of our working day Native fondness of grog Completing the head-quarters Extracts from descriptive letters to the President Officers and men at Vivi.

unpromising

for

iielcl

a road "

—

— —

— —

—

:

—

—

—

—

—

—

A

1879. *

vi^^i^

MORE

cruel or less promising task than to conquer

the sternness of that austere and sombre region of Yivi Its large bold features of

could scarcely be conceived. solidity,

ruggedness, impassiveness, the chaos of stones,

worthless scrub, and tangle of grass in hollow, on slope, or summit, breathed a grim defiance that able.

Yet our task was

make the position

to

scaleable,

that cold lifelessness perfect submission

;

;

temper

was undeni-

this obstinacy, to

even accessible

;

to

quicken

grim defiance

to reduce that

to

in a word, to infuse vigorous ani-

mation into a scene which no one but the most devoted standard-bearer

of

Philanthropy

looked at twice with a view to

its

could

ever

have

value.

Our only

men

despatched

predecessors in this region had been

Ichimpi_

BE.LGIAN FACTORY

Stanford's Gecg' Estai'

London: Sampson

Low, Marston, S*arle

&Rivuig«m.

BEGINNING WOBK.

141

on an errand of geographical exploration, or

tourists

who had

hastily passed through to

Yellala.

Trade had shunned

fit

here for

field

feature

its

it,

view the Falls of

religious zeal

saw no

labours; perhaps

its

grimness of

But

let

us see what

had daunted the

zealot.

wakeful diligence, patient industry, and a trustful faith can make of

he

is

it

;

the power of

man

a feeble, perishable creature

;

is

great,

with

little

though strokes

but many, he has before this performed marvels

working

life

every hour

;

his

counts but a handful of hours, but with

— industry

inspiring

him

—he

makes

his

many marks may make a road. With such views we began. The Esperance was despatched with the steel lighter down to Mussuko for

mark, and

men, and provisions of

rice

and

beef,

and on her return

back again for machettes, hoes, picks, and shovels, crow-bars and sledge-hammers

;

then again more men,

and more provisions, and a third time tools, provisions, tents,

we numbered

for

more men,

awnings, canvas sheds.

When

a hundred workmen, the slow, laborious

work before us was commenced by tracing a

Vivi Hill.

be given to

line

—from the beach platform — now known as Old

through the half-consumed reeds the summit of the rock

to

In order to see clearly what gradient could it,

this tracing

had

to be at least fifty feet

wide, running at right angles, for the comparatively short length of the Hill (750 feet) did not allow of

more angles without a work which would have absorbed months of road-making alone.

1879 Sept. 30.

.

When

measured

with a tape-line, the road determined upon from the

yivi.

TEE CONGO.

142

beach to the straight was 1965

1879.

October Vivi.

1.

_

,

and made

into sections,

we

signal

saluted the

five

dawn

We

feet.

divided this

working squads. of the

new

At

a

era with the

inspiring sound of striking picks, ringing hoes, metal-

and

strokes of crowbars,

lic

dull

thudding of sledge-

hammers, which rang out on the morning on the 1st of October, 1879, brisk

manner and the

bright colours out arms

;

at

;

their retinue

me

" I said, " I

work

;

for the first time with-

envious, and suggested other thoughts.

spirit of industry !

was

they stood empty-handed with brawny muscles

which made

chiefs

to prosecute

gay robes and

of Yivi were here in

chiefs

The

which we intended

great enterprise up the Congo.

first

The

spirit in

and busy, foretokening the

had been aroused.

have begun.

have you no help

to give

My me

strong-armed young fellows standing

" See, oh

young men are ?

Look

at

your

and

I

have

idle,

abundance of cloth bound in the bales below, brighter handkerchiefs than any you have yet seen, gay strings of beads and shining brass armlets for the collect fifty people,

to live upon, cut stones,

and prepare the top of the

down

me

hill for

the grass, clear the ground of

at sunset the

wage due

shall be paid, "

and a demijohn of good rum shall celebrate the event

My

clever interpreter, for at this period I

Ki-Kongo

the

more

;

and mark your welcome of my coming among you

and to-night

thus,

womankind

dialect,

knew

put the above in perhaps

forcible language.

The

effect of it

!

not still

was seen

in

the universal smile which lightened their features, as

they

all

looked at one another inquiringly.

But

pre-

NATIVE SUBPBISE AT PAID WORK. towards

they were striding

sently

man, woman, and

chiefs,

their

143 respective

child, to discuss the reality of

the offer.

What

gardens and

load

fields,

and

and plant the

days in the

fruitful arachide,

and

to extract the precious

boil the yellow butter of the palm, then

in canoes,

it

and dig in their

delve

to

palm-nut and crush it

collect the

kernel,

who had

they

!

and

float it

down

Boma, and spend

to

sale of their produce,

and wearily paddle

against the stream and brave the danger of the current •

luring dreary days, to have a white

offering to

buy wdiat strength

man

lay in their arms

willingness in their spirits for labour It is

in their midst

and

!

an event which neither they, and certainly not

their fathers,

had ever heard or dreamed

of.

Its

very

novelty unexpectedly startles them to demand of each chief the

meaning and

The

significance of the offer.

thing was totally destitute of precedents, might there not be mixed in

wot not I

it

some small danger of which they

?

watch the speaking groups

;

I see the

grave faces of

the chiefs as they appear to be imbued with the gravity (jf

the proposition as explained eagerly

now and then

lighten

up with

by the speaker,

smiles as though they

would pooh-pooh some ridiculous alarm suggested by a timid creature.

which on

it

last I

is like

I see the face also of

a book

;

there

is

my

interpreter,

a good-natured contemj)t

as he hears the vain alarms loudly uttered.

At

note a growing conviction on the faces of the

chiefs that after all

it

might be of great good

to

them,

i879. October vivi.

1.

THE CONGO.

144

an enrichment in a small way of the community

1879.

October Vjvi.

at

1.

productive

large,

a trifling interest to

of

them in

the shape of bottles of gin, social drinks, and

knows?

—perhaps

—who

a slight increase to their store of

cloth currency.

The upshot

of

all,

it

after

due bargaining,

is

that I

count sixty-five men, women, and children of Yivi on the summit of the

hill,

clearing

stones so thickly strewn,

men

I,

on the search for

of old on the verge of enterprises,

take this sight to be a

As

of the rough

and cutting the scrub bush

and levelling the ant mounds. omens, like the

its face

happy augury of the

future.

yet I had brought no European upon the scene,

though four assistants were waiting orders below, be-

employed on the steamers running up and

sides those

down, who were familiarising themselves more and

more with the of their

river track.

coming

to such a

For

I

had some small dread

work and viewing a scene

so barren of accommodation, so depressing in its slow

and tedious advance.

and the task

at

Besides, the force

iDresent

was too

small,

did not warrant anv

sub-

All hands were fresh and healthy, and a

division.

European would be almost a hindrance rather than help.

The

number

En

also,

of Europeans and

Boma and the

Belgique,

day

after

day required a

labourers to load her at

discharge her at Mussuko, while the Royal

Avant and the Jeune Africaine needed many

improvements and repairs before they could be employed in the strong current between Mussuko and Vivi.

OUR TRANSPORTS. Between the

1st

145

and the 13th of October, we con-

tinned our w^ork, and

a

for the transport of the

road

of sufficient breadth

more portable

effects to the

summit of Yivi Hill was completed, though before the

wagons could be hauled up

many

in safety

days of

The

labour had yet to be given to the operations.

Esperanee meantime had been twice a day regularly

Mussuko and back, bringing

to

time three tons

eacli

of miscellaneous stuff to the landing-place.

On up

the 13th of October the Belgique began running

then the Englishmen,

;

Birmingham, and

^Ir,

]\Ir.

John Kirkbright of

A. B. Swinburne of London, were

ordered up to the scene, while Mr. Augustus Sparhawk of Boston

was brought up from Boma

to

Mussuko

;

his

duty, with the assistance of Mr. A. H. Moore, being to

superintend the camp and the loading of the Bdgiquc.

The En Avant was brought up

to act as carrier between

the landing-place of Yivi and the beach

above the

covelet called Belgique Creek (a cove of

water half

a mile above the Lufu mouth). at

still

The Royal was retained

Yivi to act as a despatch-boat between Yivi and Mus-

suko.

The Belgique towing the large

steel lighter

menced transporting the wooden house and iron so well constructed

On

by Francis Morton

her arrival at Belgique

&

comstores

Co. of London.

Creek a force of men

marched down from the camp at the landing-place and, quickly discharging the cargo, she

depart for another load, while ihe house sections and l)uild Ell Atytnf, which,

VOL.

I.

when

was

we began them

in

released to

to transport

a pile on the

loaded, steamed close in shore

L

isto.

yivi.

THE CONGO.

146 1879. October 13. Vivi.

to our landing-place,

unloaded

hei\.

where another force of men quickly

and conveyed the sections of huts

to the

neighbourhood of the camp.

The Kabindas, Yivi

natives, coast labourers, aided

a few Zanzibaris, conveyed

them up the new road

by

to the

8PEC1MEXS OF OUR EMPLOYES.

summit of Yivi

Hill.

A

taken up and set for the

day or two first

after,

my

tent

time on the future

site

old Yivi, which, clean cleared of rocks and scrub,

now

revealed in

all its

of

was

length and breadth, naked and

brick-red of colour, exce2Dt where the face of disfigured

was

by massive boulders

rolled

it

was

down from some

MAPPING THE SITES OF HOUSES.

000

of the overhano-inopart ^

147

and which were too

heio-lit,

ponderous to be touched by the untutored hands of natives.

Now, with paper and pencil, and the outUne of the top of Tivi drawn according to scale, did I proceed with -due regard to safety from

and

fire,

to defensive

when

qualities as a provision against result of rupture

absent, to

Then

I

map

out the site of each house and store.

bethought

me

devoid of grace and

— the place looked so completeness without — and for of a garden

it

the sake of giving a finish to the plan a long oval

was

drawn which should represent an enclosure wherein, some time hence, verdure might give

relief to

eyes

aching from sun-glare, and wearying of the view of

When

white-painted structures and a brick-red plaza.

was done

this

tlie

carpenter and his assistants were

appointed to begin the construction of the wooden huts

;

an engineer, disgusted with driving an engine on a three-ton launch,

the iron stores

;

was

detailed with a

a force of

by 40

oval basin 150 feet

men was feet

this

excavation

we

few men

set to

to erect

excavate an

18 inches deep in the

With

the earth from

levelled the ground,

and made the

hard, sterile face of the platform.

foundations for the houses uniform.

Gangs of men

with crowbars and sledge-hammers were engaged in prising the larger boulders over the precipitous steep to the depths below,

beds,

It

and pulverising others

for road

which should be presently covered with a few

inches of clay is

soil.

for this

work

1879.

October 16.

of pulverisation of rock that the L 2

y;^;

THE CONGO.

148 1S79.

vivi.

Yivi

chiefs,

wonderingly looking on while

I

taught

my

men how to wield a sledge-hammer effectively, bestowed on me the title of Bula Matari Breaker of Rocks —

—

with which, from the sea to Stanley Falls, the Congo are title,

now

so familiar.

having no privileges

all

natives of

merely a distinctive

It is

to boast of, but the friend or

" son," or " brother" of Bula Matari will not be unkindly treated is

by the Bakongo,

Bateke', or By-yanzi,

and that

something surely.

As fast

as a portion of the garden basin

was excavated

the natives of Yivi, male and female, were engaged to

carry the rich black alluvial

on the eastern

from the Xkusu valley

soil

side of the hill at so

boxes of earth.

much

per hundred

In this operation there were

attempts made to defraud

me

of

my due

many

weight of earth,

but a Zanzibari policeman at the head of the road

examining each box soon prevented that

trick.

Five

thousand boxfuls of earth for twenty days represent

roughly 2000 tons, with which I formed 2000 square feet of a garden, wherein, after dressing

and forming narrow a

few^

alleys, I planted

and levelling

my

nine mango,

orange, avocada pears, and lime plants I had

brought from Zanzibar. Beds of

carrots, onions, lettuce,

parsnips, turnips, cabbage, beets, tomatoes,

some papaw

seeds were planted,

constructed around

it.

Thus

I

were made

;

and a palisade was formed

my

garden,

which, under careful watering, soon showed green, and in a

me not only by its pleasant contributed much variety of vegetables

few months repaid

verdure, to the

but

table,

limited as

it

was.

In January, 1883, I

DURATION OF OUR WORKING DAY. g-athered eleven large mangoes, the first

T'ff"auction

1

01 iriut,

f

^

149

year's pro-

11

^

and the stones of them were planted at

Le'opoldville to be in 1885 ten feet high.

With

we worked hard every day from 6 a.m. to 11 A.M., when the great gong of Yivi told of breakfast and rest from work. At the exception of Sundays,

1 P.M.

work was resumed, and

lasted

native

workmen and Kabindas

at sunset

to a small glass of

fondness for

it

scoured their chiefs require

The

G p.m.

till

were treated

grog well mixed with water.

Their

was shown by the manner in which they

gums with two

the alcoholic

The

liquid.

glasses, as well as the lingsters,

and

the lords of Tivi during this busy period took particular care on various pretences to linger near the

bucket, that they might have a

trifle

rum

of a taste before

saying " Good-night," and crawling up to their cool villages

on the top of Yivi mountain.

The good-natured Committee

at

we might need some time

to

that

home, under the idea lift

the stocks for repairs and painting,

us some large timber 12"

The beach

much

when

Banana Point, however,

we

afforded a

could con-

neighbourhood of a strong current.

There-

the head-quarters, the residence of the chief of

Vivi Station, was about to be into thick planks, ing, enabled

me

built, this

timber sawn up

with the addition of some extra plank-

to erect a two-storied chalet,

beneatli, for bottled wine, beer,

provisions.

to

12".

better place for this than anything

struct in the fore,

of

x

the Belgique on

had despatched

and

liquor,

isio.

November.

with cellar

and tinned

The unmanageable and unbreakable heads

yi^;

THE CONGO.

150 1879.

of rotten sandstone and mica which cropped out at the

December. YiTi.

river end of Vivi Hill, were covered out of sight

building a wall across the face of the

up the space with waste

hill,

stones and rubbish

with a smooth layer of the reddish

all

and ;

by

filling

surfacing

soil.

In the

centre of the upper platform thus made, the Yivi head-

\t:ew of vivi

quarters

was

view of the

At

headquarters from xorth.

constructed,

entire plaza

facing and

commanding a

and garden.

the opposite end were the Zanzibari lines, stables,

with sheds

for

hay and bran, and

at the foot of the lines

were the poultry houses, and goat and pig yards, where also

were the blacksmiths' and carpenters' sheds.

Perhaps the following quotations from

letters to the

President of the Comitc d'Etude du Haut Congo will

LESCRIPTION OF VJVI STATION.

more vivid

serve to throw a

151

upon our work

light

at this

i8^

Jan

summary

period than any retrospective

draw up

" A'lvi,

"My deak

Congo Eiver, January

Sth, 1880.

Colonel,

" Yesterday

We

it.

that I could

:

we

comijletecl head-quarters,

but we have got to paint am concerned with the

shall certainly be through, so far as I

though there will be work and his party for a very long time yet. " As we are now rapidly rounding off our work on this station, I like it more than ever, and am quite satisfied with it as being the best place on the river, above the highest mercantile establishment, which is about ten l^rincipal

enough

and lower

station, in a short time,

for the Chief of Vivi

miles below us. "

Though we

are on a hill o-iO feet above the river, limited in area,

something similar to the Acropolis at Athens, we look across a narrow valley fifty metres wide and forty metres deep abreast of head- quarters, and command a view of a tolerably level terrace or plateau sufficient for

a city I should estimate of 20,000 inhabitants, while

much

larger

and

if it

spreads itself

enough to construct a one, with gardens and parks quantum suff. between the Congo

into the depressions

valleys, there is space

and the mountains, while picturesque scenery meets the eye

at every

point.

" Small

and humble as our lower station

place on the Congo, and the

the river for the

first

first

time,

is

view of

it,

is, it

is

the most imposing-

as people tell

They

very striking.

me coming

uj)

say, head-quarters

appears like a castle or a church, and a missionary from across the river said

it

was

like a

superior to what

town with a grand promise. ' really is when you are once

it

Certainly,' said he,

'

much

here.'

"We have also a garden in the centre of the Acropolitan Station, wherein are planted nine mango trees, six papaws, three avocada pear, six oranges, seven lemons, three guavas, and where presently will be sewn the flower seeds, Eucalyptus, etc. " In order that you may fully appreciate this garden or park of ours,

you should be

told that our Acropolis consists principally of a rotten micaceous stone on the surface, while beneath lies the hard uncompromising gritty trap of the Congo region, and that we had to clear and its bald head, on which it was evident that Nature never would consent to nourish verdure. " It would have been unspeakably intolerable if our infant station were to have no shade, and last month I remedied this juattcr by depositing

expose

two thousand tons

of the richest l)lack hothouse soil, that the adjacent

valley, prolific in its grasses, afforded.

Now

ing the papaws springing up visibly, the

I

have the satisfaction of seeleaves deepening their

mango

yjIVl.

THE CONGO.

152 1880^ Jan. 8. Viri

greenness, the lemon assume a fresher tint, the guavas on the verge of

new

sending out

ing our trouble

;

and the oranges giving every promise

twigs,

of repay-

and, astonishing to relate, the palisade I had closely

planted around the tiny park have

now

six-inch long twigs in full leaf,

and almost hide the marks of axe and saw by their leaves. " The natives round about daily visit us and watch our progress with They and I get along very amicably together, and our interj)leasure. course is of the most happy character and irreproachable in its peacefulness and spirit of felicitous concord. If continued in this msnner without the meddling of strangers, the fabulous arcadia caimot compete

with

it

in its fewness of squabbles.

" There

no slave trade in any part of the country in our vicinity. It may have two or three domestic slaves, but you will better understand what I mean, if I .say that a miserable face Ijetokening suffering, soitow, discontent with its owners' lot, I have not seen in all

may

is

chance that a chief

this district of Yivi.

" I have great pleasure in informing you of the arrival of Mr. Deanes,

2nd Engineer

and Francois Flamini, an

of the Albion

Italian Engineer

;

both are of very good character, with considerable promise of work about them. " I feel as.sured that these will not worry nature,' that

me

about

active in youi- intere.sts, assiduous in their duties

threaten

me

that they will not think

it

and they

will not

of

men

to

j^re-

with them upon neglect of duty

;

\ye

seen in their shirt-

and devote myself

to

manual labour from

am accompanied have not to preach daily about the glorious

its setting.

whom

I

I like to feel that I

dignity of doing one's duty. " You will appreciate this fact better

when

L

seen the Belgiqwe, nor Captain

E

I

tell

G

16th of October, two months and twenty-three days.

kept our steamer down at Banana in a

;

beneath their dignity to

sleeves, as I divest myself of coat

the rising of the sun to

her.

expenses of tout

with what they will do in case of non-compliance will

lX)sterous demand.s, or for expostulating

by a band

'

they will be prompt in obedience, respectful in demeanour,

all this

you that I have not

A

,

since the

These people have

time on the pretence of repairing

By the bills sent to me occasionally I am informed that I am in debt sum of £75 for medical attendance. The Europeans with me are un-

commonly well, but it is perhaps because they are not permitted the

freest

access to Portuguese wine.

" I have no particular preference for any nationality here.

our law, rule and guide.

Duty is Be he Dutchman, Greek, Turk, Portuguese,

Dane, Belgian, Englishman, or American, as he works according to his agreement.

a task which I believe

is

no place here for the man, hostile to his work.

is

a sacred one. trifler,

is

perfectly immaterial so long

We are here charged to perform While the task is unfulfilled there

laggard, indolent, peevish, undisciplined

EXD OF OUR FIRST STAGE. "

With the

immeuse

feeling of

relief I

153

regard the departure of

whose conduct has revealed to me an amount of selfishness that has l^een a novelty to me from its intensity and peculiarity. " I hear the merry sound of the hammer struck on the anvil by the capital blacksmith just arrived. I must also note the arrivals of the mules and donkeys with an abundance of fodder."

Nearly a month

later a letter to the President records

my impressions

after the station

end of the

stage

first

was

attained. *'

My

"

was completed, and the

Congo Eivek,

Feb.

m,

1880.

dear Coloxel,

" I write by this mail to say,

first, that our lower station is comand that we finished its constniction on Saturday the 2ith of January. The houses were all erected, j^aiuted within and without, and ornamented sufficiently to suit a modern taste befitting our work, and this coimtry, the roads on both sides of the hill (i.e., from the landing-place to head-quarters, and from head-quarters down to the Xkusu rivulet, where we get drinking water) were also in perfect order, tlie garden in the centre and surrounded by the station, completely arranged, flower mounds, vegetable beds, and grass plots, &c. About GOO tons of miscellanea conveyed from the landing-place stores to the station magazines, provisions emptied from their cases and stowed away in the capacious cellar under head-quarters, the dry goods, cloths, beads, were arranged at the head-quarter stores, which are separate from the .station magazines, a large and commodious stable had been built for the mules, and upon everything that you might have cast your eye upon you could see nothing but what was in order and proper to its necessity. " This work was begim October 1st, 1879, ended January 24th, 1880. Time, 3 months 21: days. It was also commenced in the hot season when Europeans, like S collapsed, and through the rainy season. " My gratification was such that I thought all hands assisting in the work deserved a holiday and suitable gifts. Accordingly each of oui' working jjeople and Kabindas, 206 total, received four yai'ds of cloth, and the 2oth and 2Gth days of January were allotted to them that they might rejoice and rest after their arduous labours before commencing the second

plete in all details,

,

stage.

" The Europeans, twelve in number (one being sick and four absent with the Belgiquc), were banqueted by me out of my i)rivate stores and at my personal expense, and fortunately just before our holiday, IMr. Blundy, my friend at ^Madeira, had sent me three cases of fine wines for

'

auld lang syne's

'

sake,

make a very decent show

and with other

of hospitality.

was able to had purchased

jjrivate stocks, I

Besides which

I

1880. Jan. 8. Yivi.

THE CONGO.

154 1880. Feb. 6 Vivi.

three bullocks at Boina, which yon will have to pay

we had something Congo.

800

like

lbs.

for,

aud out

of these

of good beef for the first time on the

This quantity divided permitted three pounds of beef to each

person white and black, and sufficient to give the native Chief of Vivi a cloth and liquor, who came in great state, with numerous followers, to receive these goods. " On Sunday the 25th our banquet took place, and everything passed off agreeably. The first toast was His Majesty the King of the Belgians,' the prime mover and the best supporter of the Expedition du Haut plentiful share in

'

'

Congo.' " Second Toast,

'

Her Majesty Queen Victoria

'

and the

'

President of

the United States.' " Third Toast, The Contributors to the support of the Expedition du Haut Congo,' &c. " On the 27th we began oiir work on the bridge over the Xkusu and '

inspecting the launches, overhauling them, clearing and landing the

Avant on shore,

En

dismounting engines and boilers, putting transport caiTiages together, and placing the Boyal on the great wagon ready for for

removal, for I have resolved that she shall be the courier of the

flotilla.

"

Monday the 2nd we l>egan our road-making for the interior, and today we have reached the plateau two and a half miles distant. Once on the plateau we have a tolerably level country for about ten miles, but as the people cannot work very fast after walking five miles, this roadmaking must be postponed for the present until I shall have reconnoitred the ground and selected the most feasible route then we shall move on in a compact body with our provisions, step by step as we make the road, and shall not return until the way is clear of obstacles, brushwood and rock. Meantime, while we are absent, 3Ii'. Sparhawk, Chief of Vivi, will prepare bags for can-iage of rice, beans, peas, flour, which articles we will ;

economise, of course, as the countiy will enable us.

them

iDacked

up ready

He

into suitable man-loads, so that

will also

have

when a party

is

sent back for provisions there will be no delay. " It is going to be a tedious task I perceive very plainly, and a protra<jted

one to make a road fifty-two miles long, then to come back and may be moved only a mile a day perhaps, then to

transport a boat which

come back hauling the heavy wagon with us to transport another heavy launch and move on a mile a day again, then back for another heavy launch and repeat the same operation for three boilers three times, by Avhich we see we have to drag the heavy wagon nine times over a fifty-two mile rough road, total 936 miles, before we can embark for our second station without counting the delays caused by constant parties conveying provisions. "

Through the

radical

change in the food,

peoj^le

do not seem to have

the same energy as they have in temperate countries, and animals seem to

share in the degeneration.

I

have tested the mules on a small water-cart,

AT

riVl STATIOX.

155

carrying ninety gallons of water, freight, exclusive of cart, 990

lbs.

Three

mules were required to di-aw this cart up a slope one foot rise in six feet. Now if it requires three mules to draw 1000 lbs., how many are required to draw three-and-half tons (weight of Boyal with boiler, engine, &c.) ? Answer, twenty-two and a half mules power. " I have with me 130 efficient working men, who may be calculated to assist in di-agging these enormous loads, but as each can only draw at a dead jduU, without assistant power fifty lbs., this total man-power amounts to 6500 lbs. " Total

man and mule power

Weight

available

"

But some men not 160

lbs.

8000

.

lbs.

7840 „

Difference for powers

Do

.

of i?o^a?

and

will pull well

make up a very

" If the country were level, or

.

IGO

.

lbs.

long, others will shirk their work.

small reserve in power

we had a turnpike

?

road, such

power would

ensure a small steady progress; but as I said before, this is a hot,

troijical,

and very rough country mainly, through which there are no roads, and the rise between our station and the plateau is nearly 1000 feet in two and a half miles, and there are three very steep hills between. The first has a 343 feet in a length of road 1965 feet. " I postpone further remarks i;pon the future until I shall have returned

rise of

my reconnaissance to Isangila. Things brighten somehow always when you examine them closely, and venture upon them boldly. Yet it was due to you to give you a few of my ideas upon a subject that is never from

out of my mind. " Of white men I have enough for the present. " Agreeably to your request I took advantage of the presence of the

upon them the necessity of naming a day on which we could discuss an important question. They named Sunday, February 1. On this day Mr. Sparhawk and I rode out to Vivi Mavungu's place (the principal village), and after partaking of a slight breakfast, this question and many others of less importance were

Chiefs of Vivi during our holiday to impress

seriously discussed.

"

They were reluctant at first to concede what I wished but arguing was the first mundele (merchant) who came to Vivi and chose to build on it, despite the bad river and the big hills and big rocks,' and had, without any help from any other white mundele or native, broke that, since I

;

'

'

'

the big rocks and cut a broad road through the hills which, by next Sunday would be brought right to their doors on top of the plateau (my ]iromise has fortunately proved true), it was but right that, after doing all this, and paying all that lliey had asked, and every promise made thera strictly and justly performed at the end of every moon, and not a single

down

1880. Feb. &. Vivi.

THE CONGO.

150 1880^ Feb. 6. Viri.

thing of tlie value of a grain of Indian corn injured by us; and also as it was a condition on first coming, that I should be considered as the only mundele of Yivi and Nsanda, that all the chiefs of Vivi should make an

me

agreement with

man ''

should

)>e

that without

my permission

or consent no other white

i^ermitted to reside on any portion of Vivi

The reasons

I gave for this

demand were

:

soil.

the difficulty of keeping a

country quiet where there was no law or force for that purpose, when a number of mixed characters, with varied ideas, suddenly entered into a

new

country.

Though Senor Fernandez was only

a guest of

mine

at

camp, and had no right to deal with the natives of Yivi except as friend, yet they themselves

had come

in a

my my

body with about thirty warriors

demand that he should be sent away. They also saw how Boma was sometimes disturbed. The merchants gathered together to punish some

to

behind it, and perhaps only one of those merchants had a grievand one man and one grievance were easier dealt with than a number of men with a number of grievances. Supposing now those

villages

ance,

had their own shops or them imagine how difficult it would be to keep the peace between them and the natives why, each man probably would talk about burning villages and killing people: but now that they are all under one man, there has not been the slightest misunderstanding between us. If they required more whites I could furnish them with more. I said if they wanted to see more houses we could build them. " They demanded for this concession that I should trade in ground nuts, which was their principal wealth. I could not accede to their demand, but I i^romised I would introduce a white man to them, with whom they sixteen whites at Vivi were all independent, and

stores or factories, let

;

could trade. " There evidently must be money in this trade, or else the merchants along the Congo and the great Afrikaansche Company could not continue their business. Vivi is happily situated as regards trade it is the very highest navigable point, and our road into the interior, if continued ;

might bring such a stock of this article (ground nuts) of trade, In return for this article, the natives require various odds and ends of articles as follows

far enough,

that would overwhelm us.

:

"

Common

muskets, locks ringing smartly.

" Gun^wwder. Gun-stones. " Machettes (common). " Butcher-knives. " Small paper backed gilt framed looking-glasses. " Table knives, white bone and ivory handles.

" Table spoons. White iron. " Crockery consisting of cheap fancy wash-basins. Pitchers, figured. Jugs, white, brown and figiired. " Tumblers and other fancy glass ware.

''

"

White glass

bottles,

quarts and half-gallons.

ARTICLES FOR BARTER.

157

"Mugs, large and small, some holding as much as a quart and a and two quarts, fancy figured.

half,

'

".

"Fish-hooks. Needles. " Hoes (Dutch). " Hatchets. " Tin plates. Tin pans. " Cast-iron pots from one gallon to five gallons. Sheet-iron pans. " Fancy cheap boxes, painted and figured neatly but cheaply, size from 12" long by 9" broad by 8" deep "

Fancy paper boxes, with

some papered

;

little

" Brass ware. A few brass pans. " Brass anklets, figured. " Brass wristlets,

inside.

looking glasses inside of

two ends ending

lid,

&c.

Brass rods.

Trays, figured.

in dogs or dragons or crocodile heads,

thickness half-an-inch diameter. " Anklets from 5" to Ij" diameter, thickness of metal. " Brass collars. " Cloths, just such as

come out

to

West

Africa

;

calicoes, printed

figured or striped of all colours, red, blue, green, brown, " Handkerchiefs, red-figured.

and

pi-irjile.

" Eed, blue, and green savelist or thick flannel.

" Cotton singlets or under-shirts, white and striped, and fancy flannel shirts.

"Velvet smoking caps; yellow, red, blue braid and " Straw hats, ribboned black, blue, or red. " Caps, military or fancy. "

Eed

Felt hats.

Eed

knitted caps, flannel and cotton.

" Blankets, common figured. " Coats British, Belgian, French

—

cast-off

tassels.

fezes.

Blue

Striped ditto.

ditto.

uniform coats.

" Lackey coats. " Blue cotton velvet cloths 7 feet by G feet. " Counterpanes, cheap cotton and figured.

"

red, blue, or green.

„

" Table-cloths, cheap.

"

A

"

Malacca canes, 5

Some

figured flannel-cloth carpeting.

few toys, like Jack-in-tlie-box, monkey trick,

etc.

head 2i inches in diameter, l)andc(l with figitred brass, strong brass biitt at end with iron, and strongly riveted to the brass. Each cane must differ from the others.

They are admirable

feet 9 inches long,

as presents to chiefs.

" Su])erior machettes.

"Cutlas.ses.

Cavalry swords in scabbards.

" Umbrellas (gingham), a few cheap, silk or alpaca. " Small l)rass bells.

" Tyrolese hats, with a few gorgeous feathers dyed red or lilue

"Such

is

tlio

peacock or

common

ostrich

and white.

varied miscellanea required

for

1880.

African trade,

llio

THE CONGO.

158

uuuiber of articles or quantity

is

not great, l)ut

it

is

the great variety

where judgment and some amount of taste is required. Tlie Upper Cougo would be the country that would require the greatest variety. These fancy articles bring more than ordinary goods, though their price is less but it is judicious to have a proj^er mixture of goods. I advise you to keep this letter at hand, for you might need it, and though hurriedly written it is copious and intelligible enough for future reference. " In your letter of November 30th, you talk of * agricultural advantages indeed we have ample concessions of this kind so far as verbal ])romises go, and the soil in the valleys and on the plateau is very rich. ; '

VIEW OF VIVI SSTATIUN FROM THE KORTH.

"We

have not many Euphorbia at Yivi or in its neigbourhood it and rocky soil or nooks to nourish Euphorbia. ;

requires rather a sterile

Here and there are a few specimens, but they might be easily planted on the river side of the hill of Yivi Station and in the glen below, " I beg to assui-e you that if it depended on me I would have no more to do with rum than with poison, but the traders have so supplied the people with rum that without it friendship or trade is impossible on the

Lower Congo.

Our Kabindas, the people who will be left in charge of They have daily rations of it;

the station, will not work without rum.

STRENGTH OF OUR FORCES. they will have

it,

aud

it is

159

a coustant topic of discord between

lis

and

them, and though out of one gallon of ruin we make two gallons (with water) while others

make

three, according to custom, they are constantly

exclaiming and quarreling about

its weakness. " Relative to your information about the French Expedition going over

from the Ogowai Eiver to Stanley Pool, or the missionaries going there, I beg leave to say that I am not a party in a race for the Stanley Pool, as I have already been in that locality just two and a half years ago, and I do not intend to visit it again until I can arrive with my 50 tons of goods, boats, and other proi^erty, and after finishing the second station. If my mission simply consisted on marching for Stanley Pool, I might reach it in fifteen days, but what would be the benefit of it for the expedition or " the mission that I have undertaken ?

Yivi station being thus completed, and in excellent order,

was a

region.

ornament

veritable

to the hitherto lonely

Beautiful in situation, and with

its

snow-white

cottages and chalet visible from afar, the joj of all

Yivi

district, I

turned

over formally to the guardian-

it

ship of Mr. Sparhawk,

my

principal

future chief,

who

acted as

agent in the Lower River, with an

expressed hope that

power

its

would do the utmost

lie

in

his

for the perfection of the roads leading to the

landing-place and towards the interior.

The

officers at

Yivi consisted of

Augustus Si)arhawk John Kirkbright A. H. Moore A. B. Swinburne Frank Mahoney Captain, Engineer, and Mate and Engineer Mate and Engineer

.

.

.... .

.

Second Chief of Vivi.

.

.

.

Secretary.

.

.

Waiting orders.

.

SS. Be/qique.

.

And

Chief of Vivi.

.

^latu

Storekeeper and Caterer.

.

.

Esprrance.

.

.

En

Avant.

the muster-roll of the personnel at this day at

Yivi consisted of 12 Europeans

;

81 Zanzibaris

Leoncs; G interior natives.

;

IIG coast natives

Total 215.

:

Kabindas and Sierra

_1380 Feb. 6. Vivi.

TEE CONGO.

160

CHAPTER TIYI TO ISAXGILA

:

X.

A EECOXXAISSAXCE.

——

wagon route— The gardens of Banza Sombo The Loa Banza Uvana Fine view from Kaishandi "We Eeception of thirty chiefs and their visit our friend De-de-de retainers A conference ^lysterious councils and final decisions Distribution of gifts A dear bargain— A deserted plateau The Bundi valley A fine retreat for a recluse Adventures witli buffaloes 3Iabruki, are and elephants — Harassing search for a herd-track you hurt or dead ? " A lucky fall The course of the future road

Looking out

for a

—

—

valley of the

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

revealed

—Best

tropical

nest—" Tuckey's Furthest "

at IXdambi [Mbongo

—

'•'

— DiflBculty of our task — A — Faithful "Mirambo" — The

Ijenitent chiefs of Isangila — Future operations—^Proposed railway to Colonel StraiTch. — Infusing confidence—Extracts from letters

1880. ^'eb.

^ViTH a

sufficient

escort

I

set

out

from Yivi

for

21.

vivi.

IsaDgila on the 21st of February to explore the country for a feasible

wagon

route past the lower series of the

Livingstone Cataracts, which consist of the Yellala, Inga, ond Isangila, and various intervening rapids.

From Yivi

Station

we suddenly

dip

down 100

feet

lower into the Nkusu Ravine, across which there

an immediate

rise

of

as

plateau of Yivi, on which

is

many

feet

to

the

is

larger

found a habitable level of

1,200,000 square yards, at this time devoted to a small bean-field

and

to

waste grass.

In a gentle hollow flush

NATIVE BAXZAS,

07?

VILLAGES.

with palms, and shady embowering

101

trees, is the village

of Chinsalla, in which our native lingster, Massala, lives

with his family and friends.

which has

first

the

summit of Yivi mountain.

On

our right, in a

continuation of the hollow of Chinsalla, in

which

among

this begins

to be climbed to reach

the

steep rise

Beyond

the village

is

Benzani Congo, the most good-looking

lives

the chiefs of Yivi district.

After a journey of two miles and a half nearly continuous

ascent,

we

the gardens of

ourselves in

find

Banza Sombo, on the top of Yivi mountain,

at

an

alti-

tude of a thousand feet above Yivi Station, or nearly

1350

feet

above the Congo

to give a glance at the

of

river.

We

have only time

bean and ground-nut gardens

Banza Sombo, when the path, which

is

but a foot

wide, plunges into dense grass exhaling a strong odour of wild

pig,

and which

in time of

ambushments against an enemy. erratic course

war

affords fine

Following

it

in its

along the spine of the mountain, the path

to tlie north diverges

from that going to the village of

the senior chief of Yivi, and descends steeply 1000 feet

along the northern slope of Yivi mountain, in which descent

we

are agreeably entertained with far-reaching

views of the groves of several native Banzas, or lages, such as

front

and

Banza Uvana and Banza Kulu

right, Ichimpi

north-westward the dark

At

and Chionzo tall

vil-

to the

to the left,

and

groves of Nsanda villages.

the foot of the Yivi mountain

we

are in the

valley of the Loa, a stream that winds clear and cool

from between the plateau of Banza Lungu and Banza VOL.

I,

M

isso.

Chinsaiia.

THE CONGO.

162

y^l^l\ Banza

Kulu, at nearly the same altitude as that of Vivi Station Hill, which

we might have reached by

skirting

Vivi mountain, without the fatiguing ascent and steep

made a

descent, had the natives been pleased to have

By

road.

we have been

following their path, however,

forced to travel tbus far about seven Eno-lish miles.

From

Loa stream we soon begin

the

by a gentle gradient, which continues Banza Uvana,

Grained the village of

500

to rise

until

we have

an altitude of

at

above the Loa valley, in three miles.

feet

we have a Lemba hills,

again

From

this village

fine

view of Nokki, Palaballa,

Congo

all

on the south side of the

la

Congo, and from end to end the northern face of Yivi

mountain

down

revealed,

is

to the

Lufu

its

western face falling smoothly

dangerously

river, its eastern side

precipitous to the Congo.

From Banza Uvana

the path

leads

Banza Lungu, along tbe summit of a deep rich grass

;

soil,

but

now

northerly to

fine plateau of

nourishing only the rankest

the cultivated portions forming only an eightieth

part of rich productive land, and those devoted to wine

and oil-producing palms, ground-nuts, a few square and vegetables, such as cabbage,

for tobacco

feet

brinjalls,

tomatoes and sweet potatoes.

Beyond Banza Lungu we came, mile

of our

the fourteenth

Station,

to

Banza

situated in the bottom

of a grassy gorge

Muzonzila, about 500 feet

below the plateau

Kimpunzu, called

journey from Yivi

at

surface,

which in rainy seasons contributes

the same

name

to join the Lufu.

a stream of

VIEW FROM KAISRANBL After a

nio'ht's ^

rest at

163

Kimpiinzu we crossed the ^

isao. Feb. 22.

gorge, and a steep ascent of 500 feet enabled us to breathe the cooler air of another grassy plateau, and to

whence we

find ourselves in the village of Kaishandi,

we had

obtained a more extensive view than

From

enjoyed.

previously

south to west were visible the groves

Mavungu, Banza Sombo, Banza Chionzo, and

of Yivi

Kaika Sanda, about a mile

Ichimpi.

about three miles and a half

away, and from south

to east

indicated the villages of

off,

distant,

Mpangi

Muvanga five miles

were those groves which

Banza Uvana, Banza Lungu,

and Banza Kulu. It

can

from such points as this of Kaishandi that we

is'

first

obtain an estimate of the value of the country.

While imprisoned

in the tall grasses

the depths of which nothing or pale blue sky, one

is

is

and

scrub,

from

seen but a strip of grey

only sensible that he

walking

is

over tolerably level ground by looking at the narrow strip of black

arrive

at

road beneath his feet; but

a clearing,

the

eye

when we obtain

hastens to

a

general idea of the surrounding country, and such

advantageous points as Kaishandi enable him to obtain a valuable lesson in topography.

conscious that a good road despite the sudden

we make, by made

and

is

We

became

also first

possible of construction,

startling descents

and ascents

following the native path, which has been

for the

convenience of communication between

neighbouring villages.

At Banza Kaishandi we

are well in

Nsanda

district.

Leaving the village and passing over a beautiful breezy

M

2

Kaishandi.

THE CONGO.

164 1880-

Banza

plateau thickly studded

hour is

at

the populous

we

^Yitll villages,

town

of

arrive in an

Here

Bauza Nsanda.

who

the residence of the senior chief, Samuna,

so

is

corpulent that he cannot travel afoot, but must needs

be carried about in a

Beyond Samuna's,

litter.

a delightful walk over the level plateau,

after

we come

the Muzonzila gorge once again, and at the bottom the new-built

town of our friend

grey coat

We friend,

I

is

who made

De-de'-de,

and who

our acquaintance in 1877,

to

wears the

still

gave him two and a half years ago.

must halt here, because De-de-de

a constant

is

though given overmuch to the drinking of gin,

and fond,

The* guides

unsatisfied, expectancy of gifts.

of Yivi must be changed here also for the more expe-

The

rienced travellers of Nsanda. at

Nsanda has become generally known have sent their boys

chiefs

to

expect friends and visitors.

any

trifling delay of this

have

to obtain

me

;

arrival

and various

to say that 1

must

submit to

It is politic to

kind, for 1 shall presently

workmen from them

wagon-road into the

my

fact of

to

make

the great

interior.

Knowing beforehand that many this day will amount to

the gifts expected by so

sum by night,

a large

my

trusted servants have been busily sorting and arrang-

ing the various

piles ever since

daybreak.

Sadika Banzi, lord of an untenanted

from the Mpagassa gorge south miles

;

First

district

to the

Congo

comes

extending

—

fully six

the Mpagassa stream bounds his territory south-

ward, while an uninhabited wilderness

and the Bimdi

five miles

northward.

lies

He

between him

has a retinue of

NSANDA.

THE CHIEFS OF cotton-clotlied youths his gift to

me

armed with

165

leno-thy flintlocks,

consists of a goat, six chickens, a

and

bunch

i^so.

De-de-de's

of bananas, and a large gourdful of palm wine, which last

we

are expected to finish during the social

call.

Xext comes Nkamampu, of Banza Kinlele; Kinkela-

Nku, of Mpwelele'

;

Masiku of Masanda, or the Night of

Nsanda, each with their goats, their fowls, their banana bunches, and gourds of palm wine, which

of different

is

degrees of sourness, therefore undrinkable by me, but* for

them

whose

because

it is fit,

chiefs

command

it is

the Yellala districts,

sented by the chiefs, light- coloured

and the

Banza Kulu,

inebriating.

chief and elders of

is

repre-

and Ngombe,

Nte'te',

Banza Lungu

are not long-

behind those of Kulu, and they are introduced to

me

under the names of Matanga, Nkingi, and Mariatta. But

Banza-Mgangila

is

make an imposing show

resolved to

of forces, and chiefs, and arm-bearing youths, for here are Ntolulu, Xezau, or the elephant Male'Ie,

represented by Luzalla Kindunga, and

is

Nsakala Mpwassa, the

— though

first

remarkable for the

not the longest

Yivi and Stanley Pool.

Banza Chibweta

;

Mbongo, near

— of any man

Ngandu, or the

Isangila,

finest

between

Kinkela Ndunga represents crocodile,

is

from the

Ndambi have come Ndambi Mbongo

outermost village of Xsanda

;

and from

himself, with his confederates Lusalla,

wale ^Iwaka, of ^Mkimbwete, in

mun

or the ox

Nevangi, Mavangu, Nempambu, and Makweta.

Banza Uvana

beard

Ngombe,

;

of might, influence, and

far

Kisungwa, Mag-

all fully thirty chiefs,

renown

in

the

Lower

Cataract region, with altorrether about 350 souls follow-

THE CONGO.

lOG 1880.

iijjv '--'

reb. 23.

De-de-de's.

them

as retainers, slaves, bearers of the

strange white

man who

passed through their country

from some unknown quarter eastward some ago,

and who has now

to the

ffifts '-^

built a

town

six rains

at Yivi witli a

of settling amongst them as a friend.

These

view

thirt}^

chiefs represent a population of about 12.000 souls,

who

are thinly scattered over an area of about 1000 square miles. •is

Many

villages

have not come in

yet.

Nsanda

thinly represented, Chionzo and Nsekele'lo have no

one here, and

many

a low-lying village in the gorge of

the Lufu and Muzonzila have no one to speak for them.

There are some fine-looking men amongst the

chiefs,

and some very regular-featured men amongst the Mostly

tainers.

cotton,

all

are dressed

in

cloth^

and woollen, white and red being the pre-

The

dominating colours.

from the

chiefs are nearly all coated

cast-off clothing of

London and Paris

varied in

make and

the round-rim

generations

ago,

style,

clubs

The head-dresses are

of English and French armies.

felt,

European

re-

including the low-crowned

straw, the military cap of three

the

crimson

fez,

and the striped

knitted cotton cap.

They have nearly all brought goats, bananas. Before midday we have quite domestic animals, which I

shall at once

Yivi under a careful escort, garrison

left

for

fowls,

and

a flock

of

despatch to

the

benefit

man

this day.

of the

behind.

Chief De-de-de'

is

an important

He

has done his work well, his messengers have been

despatched

all

over the country, summoning to an

enlighteninct the chiefs.

167

important conference * the powers of Nsanda.

The

issu. Feb. 2j.

ceremonious greetings baing over, the gifts brought

by the chiefs duly accepted,

open the

I

my

announcing the purpose of

presence at Yivi, and

explaining the reasons for this

which are very well known

convention

them

to

by

j^^l^^^^sr

some

for

reasons

;

time, yet

3tiquette in this assembly, as in others, requires that shall be publicly explained.

all

^'

I

am going

from Yivi

to

a road through your countries

to Isangila, but I

own path here

have

in order that I

were possible

it

make

to

make

first

might

travelled

by your

find out

whether

a road over which

wagons, loaded heavily with boats, and so pass

;

in order, also, to find out

make such

your gardens or

fields

by a personal interview

money on

right through

sliould be touched

to

I

me on

some places

them.

by the

necessary that these

by

me

The sovereign

as the peace-loving

to

w^ill

cliicfs of

expect

my own

will allow

build

first

subjects

Also

I

must

a road which will be oj^en to

this road at a

Vi\i helped

directly

Before spending

upon and explained.

travel

know whether you

*

is

me, whether you

every time

for

it

make such

find out, if I

me

might be that

it

a road that might be blocked

garden we meet,

you as

in

to give

good road, and that no way could be

in the track of a

made except

a road, for

would be

might

forth,

with you, whether you had any objections the riglit to

great

me

road.

your young

fair price, as

my town

;

and

to

pay you

Also

I

must

men

to

work

the people of I

should like

"Western Africa are as partial to Conferences

Powers of Europe.

De-de-de^

THE CONGO.

168 1880.

D^-de'-dd's.

to

have an agreement

you by which the country

witli

through which the road passes shall be secure from wars and troubles sary that you first it

and in order

;

to do this

it is

neces-

promise not to make any war without

all

consulting me,

my

lest

people will be drawn into

without their knowledge."

Towards four cils

were

held, during

and assembled De-de-de',

ters

coun-

o'clock, after several mysterious

which they had

at a little distance

together

all risen

from the village of

where they sometimes seemed

to discuss

mat-

very warmly, judging from the high tones and

animated gestures of some of the speakers, the following was verbally agreed upon at the

first

general

council of the chiefs of the various districts between

Yivi and Isangila.

They expressed themselves very our coming into the country. to the

It

would be a good thing

eyes the coming of the white of good

—good to

and they were

chiefs

all

to

man would

and people.

traders.

road and troubles on

it.

very doors they would

The road

proposed road

may

be

If trade all

him a

be productive

meant

trade,

Bom a was

to

afraid of the long

came

to

be pleased.

made without

would nothing further be charged

man

It

chief

In their

the idea.

and there were many people

white

No

country that a road should be made.

had any objection whatsoever

long,

well pleased with

them

to their

Therefore the

and there

fear,

for

it

;

after the

has signed a paper for each chief, giving

little

present every

month

for the right,

the

road would become the property of the white man.

"

If

led

it

BULA MATARI AS A FBIEND."

were

no

and ^ to be found, then the

e'ardens, or fields or villao'es,

tlirou2:li

^

'^

there

'

'

way

better

owner of that garden^ or

or village shall say

field,

what amount of goods he wants

fairly

169

the destruction of his property

;

and

in return for after

payment

the road shall be untouched in future, and

passing by

young men of the

of the to

shall be liable to

it

pay anything.

then

that,

and when the wagons came

every

district

through until district

permission to

full

There would be no trouble arising

should prefer.

from

Those

long as they themselves

as

for

man

who wished

different districts

make any money by work, had

engage themselves

no

haul them

send help to

shall

have passed by, and

shall

it

into a district,

if

the

has not people enough, then the neighbouring

districts shall assist

and

;

for the matter of

agreement

about keeping the peace, that might remain for the present until the road was made, and

would have time I ascertained

to confirm

me

in

to

know Bula Matari

all

the people

as a friend.

during this lengthy council

my

belief that

sufficient

no serious obstacle of

any kind would be thrown in our path by captiousness or ill-natured suspicion, intents

and that they believed that our

were not wicked, but worthy, deserving of their

favourable consideration.

novel and unirpie,

Although our

projects

were

they could divine no reason for

withholding their assistance and welcome.

At it

the same time, being an impressionable people,

was very evident that

picion

and

it

was

easier to implant sus-

distrust of our objects,

even

to violence,

isso. Feb. 23. Du-de-de'i

THE CONGO.

170 1880. Feb. 23. De-de-de's.

Thee:ood-will and confidence in us. than to create * Jattcr could onW be of slow growth in the breasts of

barbarians

and

—whose everyday intercourse

one of fraud

and general un-

crafty cunning, greed of plunder,

conscionable uncharitableness

is

—and would be

fostered

by

watchfulness that nothing

liberality, never- slumbering

untoward should happen in the conduct of the European employes, a care that one's

own

foreign black employes

should not disturb harmony by some wicked freaks or cruel malice or overbearing behaviour,

and by a pains-

taking guidance of the camp-followers in an upright

On

course in their petty dealings with the natives. the other hand, the

slightest

whisper of a malicious

European might upset such protracted course of rality

and

fair-dealing,

libe-

and instantly make enemies of

friends.

The day was

closed

of the thirty chiefs. of military coats,

by the

distribution of gifts to each

And

gifts,

though the

gay shawls of woollen

velvet cloths, crimson savelist, cotton

consisting

fabric, cotton-

handkerchiefs,

and pieces of unbleached domestic, with a few

cutlasses,

swords, knives, beads for the female sex, and a few bottles of gin to each,

might be considered

the eyes of Europeans, in casting

this

sum we had only obtained

£150

in English

Considering that for right of

a territory generally unoccupied, to

in.

up the gross account

of the expenditure, I discovered that

gold had been paid for them.

trivial

way through

and of no present use

any person, with a few goats and bananas thrown

in, it

was

a prodigal expenditure of

money.

TVe had

SETTING OUT FOR ISANGILA. no reason it

however, by the very o;ood effect ^ smoothed the way for future and more

to re^'ret °

created, as

171

it

it,'

'

''

-^

important negotiations, including requests for labourers

and

carriers.

It created a

hope, too, in every

man

that

he possessed something that was saleable, in a region hitherto inaccessible, and sold

where products were only

by dint of a long and laborious journey

to

Boma

and, finally, that the force of those masses of muscle

on their arms had become marketable and valuable. Guides offered themselves very freely to show the road to Isangila, but, because of their number, I be-

came

fastidious,

and only a dozen of the most

men were eng-asred. On the 24th we were

respect-

able

by a

large

frontier lu-lu-lued lustily as

we

our numbers greatly, until

increased

number of

and the women and children of

chiefs for several miles,

Ngandu's

escorted

appeared, and wilderness

tlie

was reached, when, with abundance of good wishes a

happy journey, they

finally

withdrew, and

left

for

us to

pursue our road in peace.

We

were now on that same road on which we looked

with such gloomy eyes in 1877, wdien

seemed nature

to

us cold-hearted and unkind,

itself

the world

all

and savage

refused us food, water, and even the least

kindly liope that some day an end to the dismal time

would come.

Now

under kindlier auspices, dreary

—

resque.

it

was a

The

first

we looked upon

that

little

it

tlie

land

did not seem so dull and

rugged,

glance of what

perhaps, is

but pictu-

offered to the eye

bears an unpromising aspect for road-making, but,

l)y

isso. Feb. 23. De-de-de'5

THE CONGO.

172

Yh^^oA Xgandu.

observing the details more closely, as a surveyor would,

we

find that a little study creates a sensible increase of

hope that

after all

By

position.

with each step village stands

might not be

—Ngandu's

For instance peculiar

it

difiBcult.

frontier village

my

looking at

make grows

I

very

so

in a very

is

map, which

clearer, I find that this

on a narrow neck of plateau land, 200

feet

above the terminus of the Muzonzila gorge

the

Muzonzila gorge

with a

is

improvement

little

enough

firm for a

road

the gorge are of a workable clay directly

;

;

at

;

that

the bottom,

that the slopes of that from almost

under the foundations of Ngandu's,

it

winds

along through the very heart of the severed plateau to De'-de'-de"s, like breadth

and from De-de-de with a more valley-

down

to

Kimpunzu

issues out into the Lufii

:

a few miles below

it

and Loa valley, and down along

the united stream to the Congo, one and a-half miles

below Yivi. miles

;

The

distance from the river

is

sixteen

the difierence of altitude between the terminus

of the Muzonzila gorge and the plateau of Yivi Station is

700

By that

feet,

making about one

foot rise in

the time I reach the Bundi,

120

my map

feet. tells

me

by cutting through that narrow neck of land on

which Ngandu descent to

make

stands, to

I

should have 200 feet less

reach the Bundi valley

;

and that

by working across those various spurs projected out of the worn and farrowed eastern slopes of the plateau of

Ngandu, and the southern

face of the Nsekelelo

range, one would be able to cut out an easy decline to the Bundi valley.

AN ABANDONED The native

DISTRICT.

patb, soon after leaving

173

Ngandu's

slopes,

isso. Feb. 24

for nearly three miles to the clear waters of the

streamlet, again

rises abruptly, crosses

a

Mvnzi

level-faced

mount, dips once more into a chief water-course, and then enters upon a lengthy spur descending to the

Bundi

river.

About halfway down

this

long spur,

Congo

the

suddenly comes into view on our right, winding round the great Inga bend in a succession of tumbling cata-

The Inga plateau looms

racts.

large

and massive,

graced with forest trees on the summit and in folds

and gully

an important Banza and

the last vestiges of

Inga

district, sixty

abandoned buffaloes,

deep

In the time of Tuckey there was

lines.

mit, but internecine

its

its

dependencies on the sum-

wars have long ago swept away

human

life,

and the whole of the

square miles in extent,

to l)ecome a

park

for

is

absolutely

wild game, elephants,

water-buck, and various kinds of antelope,

the locality 1)eing seldom visited even by the boldest natives.

A

valley,

from half a mile to two miles in breadth,

which extends from the

Congo

river, ten miles

left

bank of the Bundi

away, entirely separates the Inga

plateau and group of hills from the

range.

to the

lofty Nsekclelo

After traversing the valley you cannot help

having the conviction that before the Congo channelled a course through the obstructions, over the relics of

which there are

at present

many

cataracts

and rapids,

the river must have run through here, and short cut to

its

made a

lower course, leaving the valley almost

inga.

TEE CONGO.

174 1880. Feb. 24. Insra.

uniformly

level, to

form a splendid natural track for

the use of some future railway.

The Bundi

is

a beautiful stream of very clear water,

brawling in the dry season over rocks and smoothly polished stones and pjebbles at the bottom of a deep

BASUXDI NATIVE.

some

rocky

gully,

native

path, rising

twenty-five

up the

left

yards bank,

across. is

very steep

and

diflScult.

After an abrupt climb of about

feet,

we

ourselves in an

find

The 100

ancient and well-used

native camp, where the pig-drovers and market trades-

MPAMBA NGULU. from

Taen

bound

Suiidi,

Ndambi

From

halted for the night.

Bundi

aud

Mbono;o,

Xsanda markets, have

for the

in the

175 Isanp-ila,

is^'^

for generations

inga

this spot the

path winds

valley, crossing once or twice clear-water

tributaries of the Bundi,

and through cool depths of

forest groves, until the base of the lofty truncated

of

Ulungu

reached,

is

when

it

enters a valley, a

admirably adapted for the growth of hour's

march we camp on the

(Pig

Camp

I leave

my

men

better

Mpamba Ngulu

plain of

it.

people for a few daj's here, and follow

downward with

the Congo

After an

rice.

about 40 feet above the Congo, and

?),

within a few yards of

a

much

smaller escort of

and continuous ramblino-

fitted for lono-

we now Congo down

search for that local knowledge which that

find

by following the

confluence of the Bundi, the distance

eighteen miles.

came

to a valley

Soon

visible, to

is

possess. to

seventeen or

out, after a little while,

by proofs

be another disused course of the great river,

serve as an outlet for surplus waters

pools,

still

;

still

for a winding-

water, here and there spreading out into

extends along the bottom

about ten miles, until

it

is

lost in

the elbow of Inga district.

the

I

parallel with the

and may, indeed, in very high flood seasons,

creek of

the

Mpamba Xgulu,

after leaving

running westward,

Congo, which turned

of

little

regular in form, to terminate in another valley

less

I

cone

island-like

hills

of the

two sandy

From

which

valley

outlets at

the spine of

rose

in

for

this

any

many-

branched valley, we could see the fretted Congo in a

THE CONGO.

176 1880. February. ijjca.

white

rage,

m succession as .

.

chasing another

Herds of

Inga elbow.

lar as the

buffaloes grazed in the conscious security

which speaks of rare disturbance ful

one furious rapid

mile after mile,

for

.

the antelope's grace-

;

form was often seen pacing carelessly in the open,

and

herd of half-a-dozen elephants on the verge

finally a

own sun-baked

of a pool luxuriously spraying their backs.

Yet, with

animal

all this

dashing headlong down

about the strange

stillness

It is a capital place for

scene.

and the wild river

rock-obstructed bed, there

its

was an almost palpable

life,

some

recluse.

In any

of the obscure nooks and folds under the shade of a

grove to do

—with which

— removed

man

recluse

have nought

corner of wild land

as this

the haunts of those

in general can

who

seek a living

—and

might build his hut

by

is

barter

be the sole

from

—the

human

inhabitant of a sixty square mile tract, over which he

might roam

at

pleasure for

months without being

disturbed.

Of the adventures with while to write.

We

at

;

not worth

also

by the sudden

both animals and

men

unlooked-^

foolishly gazing

one another, until the quicker-witted animals soon

discovered

it

was a dangerous presence they stood

and vanished, with the

it is

were continually startling a herd,

and startling ourselves for encounter

buffaloes,

men

in,

their tails erect in the air, while

passed on in quest of more useful knowledge

than that relating

much upon

to their habitat.

Nor

will I dilate

the shock I suffered, when, after breasting

a long steep slope, almost breathless, I found myself in

EABASSING SEARCH FOR A TRACE. the

red-hided buffalo some forty feet

of a

jDresence

How

from me, and imsuccessfuUy fired at him.

demon

me twenty

yards high for

my

such a

temerity,

incomprehensible, and must be relegated to the limbo

Nor

of things inexplicable.

much

shall I say

of the

agonising descent through a hitherto unexplored forest

which clothed a deep

summit

base,

to

fold in the

Inga plateau, from

and while descending an almost

terminable slope,

we were

startled

by the

an elephant herd somew^here away

:

though a charge was meditated upon another the

movements

into a

us,

while at

their

hasty

grand march of trampling squadrons,

overwhelmingly near. traversed this

one time as

exaggerated

echoes

forest

in-

ci-ashing of

at

Long

before

unknown woodland,

we had

completely

the sun had set

the exasperating forest had yielded us liberty only to

plunge us into a more annoying cane-brake, whose firm array of

tall stalks

daunted us

was

during the

fast

lost

all.

Another half-hour

deepening gloaming, in search-

ing for the shadow of a herd-track which,

when

found,

only seemed to lead us deeper and deeper into the unexplored solitudes.

we might

rest

We

sought for water beside which

for the night,

and

in

hope that

the

another hour might reveal some pool at the bottom of the valley, or some tiny thread of a stream, the drain of the towering heights half enfolding us,

hold

on.

nowhere, or

The herd-track disappeared

we had

the gulfy hollow. VOL.

I.

lost

Man

it

in

after

;

we bravely it

had

led

the black darkness of

man

tried

to force his ;

N

'isso.

Februarv.

of fury as he appeared did not retaliate upon

me, and toss is

177

^luga.

THE COSGO.

178 1880. Jebniarv. inga.

wav

but each after a spell

throns'li the roadless o-rass,

Finally a

retired exhausted.

clever lad thought he

could find the way, and led us half an hour, guided

bv

solelv

his

own

Another clever lad

wit.

knowledge the

the

impatiently to dispute

boasted of possessing, and this was

the " " first

Dark Continent "

Do you come

little

started

had

first

Mabruki of

heroes.

here and try to do better

?

" says the

clever lad to Mabruki.

Mabruki, being the only brave who had not as yet exhausted himself in crushing the grass down, cries " Willingly

—

way

a

I will find

in a short time,"

and

while he hurls himself against the stubborn grass, he of bitter comments upon the

keeps up a running

fire

other's unmanliness,

and woful ignorance of continental

by the

travelling, which, being briskly retorted

other,

gradually threatens to end in a set-to in the wilderness.

Suddenly, Mabruki throws himself, under the impulse

more vigorously than

of anger,

upon the

when,

grass,

with a gurgling

to

cry, in

ever, in a fresh assault

our horror, he disappears

a lengthy gravelike fracture

of the earth " "Where

Are you

— oh

where, Mabruki, are

hurt, or dead

you

gone

?

" Here," cries the lad's voice from the depths.

have found water

but I have broken

;

Poor Mabruki had tumbled course, twelve feet deep

had caused him water.

The

to

lausrh

to ?

"

;

but

its

into a

gourd

!

narrow water-

exceeding narrowness

drop on his that

my

" I "

followed

feet

—in

a pool of

the announcement

VIEW FROM ULUNQU.

179

of the accident to his gourd chased away

--ii c of rising combativeness m the bosom of r

it

'

'

•

^

contributed to

seem

easier,

and

aching pains of

The next

make our beds on to cause us

map

Though

view from

its

;

grass

tall

we

crossed the

Ulungu's steep

very summit, not in search of the

pic-

out a bird's-eye view of the land

it is

dominating crown

its

his antagonist

and fatigue.

thirst

turesque, but to it.

•

forget the previous

to

valley of the Bundi, and ascended

around

all feelings

'

the thick

day, in the early morning,

sides to the

^

is

only 1550 feet above the

sea,

conspicuous from afar, and the

top will be well worth the

toil

of the

arrested

by the

ascent.

Looking towards Yivi, the view

is

noble expanse of the plateaus of Nsanda, Sadika Banzi,

and Mgangila. from above

is

Mpamba Ngulu,

to end,

seen

is

seen

trending towards the elbow

The whole of the Inga

of Inga.

end

The deep trough of the Congo

district is visible

and a long winding

stretch of the

from

Congo

from near the Bundi, flowing westward by

and between the

districts of

Banzi, and Mgangila.

West

Congo

la

Lemba, Sadika

of lofty Yellala,

Mount

Palaballa rises into view, and also the crown of the

higher

number

hills

behind Nokki.

To

of mountain tops, the dark forest-clad

of Nyongena, with large massive

On

the north-east

the south bank,

I

Ngoma

;

a

summit

just beyond.

can see almost the whole of the

country, distributed in a series of ridges running

and N.E.

is

and away beyond, some isolated

S.W.

hill-tops

undistinguished by names, because of our scant local

X

2

isso. February. ii,ga,

THE CONGO.

180 1880. February.

Ndambi "^^'

The general impression we have

knowledge.

hilly country

irregular

;

masses of level-topped

alternating with trough-like valleys sions

of an

is

;

hills

narrower depres-

seem well wooded, wider valleys are grassy,

the hill-tops

thin dark threads of lines of trees

;

like

mark

the banks of streams, or of deep recesses, wherein the flames from the annual conflagrations die out for

want

of the fanning breezes that drive these furious

fires

on their destructive course.

Bundi

of Ulungu, the

Below the aspiring mass

valley, with

its

many

pene-

trating branches and grassy arms, lies distinctly outlined, is

and the course of the future road

for

many

miles

revealed to us.

In the afternoon we rejoined our company, and on the

morning

next

village

Soon

set

on the western

after leaving

out

for

side

Ndambi Mbongo, a

Xgoma

of

mountain.

camp, we cross the Luenda stream,

and begin mounting a quartz-covered path leading

up a high

the path dips

an opposing

and down

down

hill

Lulu

beautiful

after a

hill;

mass of

])aces

river,

over level ground,

into another deep ravine,

and up

down

to the

of equal height

;

then

from which the path winds up

to across the

seven hours' march, village of

few

we

Bula

river, and, finally, after

find ourselves at rest in the

Xdambi Mbongo, halfway up

Xgoma

mountain,

humpy whose grand outlines we the

had noted from the top of Ulungu.

The

Ndambi Mbongo were

great palaver

held at

De'-de'-de's,

present at

the

chiefs

of

and are jorepared with their usual

offerings of palm-wine and fowls.

NGOMA MOUXTAiy. Here we receive an accession .

m single

1600

summit a grand view of the

surmount

sea.

From

its

lofty

obtained of the upper portion

bank below

left

down

narrows of

to

clearly presented, also the spacious

is

denting the reach

file

between Isangila and Yivi.

river

Cataract

is

ri

Ngoma, which has an

above the

feet

1

•

the commanding* mountain of altitude of

to our force of guides,

.

and on the next day wind up

181

to the base of

Mpamba Xgulu.

Isangila

bay

in-

and the long winding

it,

Ngoma and down to the On the south bank of the

Congo some 1500 square miles of

hilly territory lie

extended, the surface lifting and falling in great irre-

gular waves, or disjointed masses gullied on the sides.

From

the preceding description of the country lying

between Yivi and

this

mountain,

the reader that the thought that

was that of the task which, Isangila,

as

it

will appear clear to

weighed upon me most

we advanced towards

became more imminent each day,

finding available

—in

industry, if necessary

Nature,

—

if possible

;

viz., that

of

by laborious

either continuous stretches, or

detached pieces, of level land,*which might be deftly

connected together by a passable and safe road. native path, which boldly ran up and

and declines of formidable

steepness,

down

The

inclines

and sometimes

along a six-inch wide ledge of rock round the ends of watercourses,

ing

here,

at

remembered

was simply out of the question.

Stand-

Ngoma, and looking over the ups

and

downs,

deep

rocky

well-

ravines,

innumerable nullahs alternating with almost impassable ascents of hills from Isangila to the extreme foot

isso. Februarv.

xgoma.

THE CONGO.

182 1880.

of

Ngoma

Neoma.

^^

^^^

down

that 1000 feet

almost precipitous descent into the torrent of

Nkenge, awful

mountain, and looking

just

toil

below me, I

that

lies

may

my

before

how

well consider

the

small band of labourers^

of dragging those heavy steamers and launches over-

land before they are set afloat above the cataract of Isangila,

is

ever to be accomplished.

that

object

I

It is

with that

my

glass the

minutely examine with

river between

Ngoma and

Isangila,

Then

shores on either side.

come

I

and search the to the resolution

of descending along the spine of JSTgoma, water's

edge, to follow the

river

down

to

the

shore to Isangila,

while the people shall continue along

my

old road over

the Nkenge' and the Luazaza rivers, and the myriad of intervening hills and fatiguiug spurs that form the

water-partiug of those streams.

Two

guides, for an extra consideration, are willing

to undertake the toilsome

work

of exploration with me.

A small gang of my own

men

will be sufficient for

escort.

We

an

descend along the crescented curve of the

spine, and, in half

an

Eibur, find that

we have

a

cliff

on

the eastern side, and that the western side represents the smooth top of a plateau, tilted over on

On

the summit

quartz,

it

shows

to the

which contiuues down

its

side.

sky a knife-like edge of to

river bed, offering, of course, an

the

middle of the

obstruction to the

run of the current, and creating an impassable rapid. Just at the point where the rocky extremity of falls

headlong into the

river, is a

Ngoma

heap of huge detached

oblong masses of quartz covering a space of 200 yards.

ARDUOUS TRAVELLING.

A

by

track used

183

and hippopotami

buffaloes

J.

"^

J.

leads

i.

through this confused heap of large rocky fragments

and

to a terrace consisting of debris

above, which has, from a dense forest of

sheltered position, nourished

its

bound together by entangling

tall trees,

lines of indiarubber creepers,

have frequently

stalks

Sometimes, as

nest.

made

we

exuberance of vegetation, quartz

cliffs

the tallest

of

Ngoma,

trees^

whose loops and pendent

be cut with machettes to

to

allow an advance to be

soil

washed from

into this

warm

tropical

slowly struggle through the

we

catch a sight of the white

lifting their

heads high above

and reminding one, in a strange

fashion, of the stanza in Milton descriptive of the point

whence Satan our right

we

first

we emerge

Ngoma

On

enwalled Paradise.

now

catch gleams of the river,

smoothly towards work^

viewed

Rapids.

gliding

After an hour's

out of the low-lying tropical nest to

a grassy terrace, and see behind us, like an impassable barrier, towering grandly, the

scaleable eastern face of

The

grim outlines and un-

Ngoma

mountains.

river gradually widens;

terraces,

cut

up by

channels excavated by the torrents from the multitude of hills to the north bank, which end in reefs, or are

margined by sand, are crossed as we proceed upon our laborious

march.

The south bank

rising to the height of

600

is

in

feet, either ^in

full

view,

very steep

slopes or precipitously, or deeply indented at the conflux

of the tributary with the

Nkengc

is

parent stream.

forded amid deep solemn woods.

There

The is

a

succession of spurs to be crossed by us, whose ends,

i^so. February.

xgoma.

THE CONGO.

184 1880.

isangiia.

abutting on the river, are not yet

OH account of

on their

thriving

many

over

we emerge on

which the Luazaza

flow,

after

down

the

gallant

river, just at

to regain its

the violence and turmoil of Isangila

Cataract.

effort

plain through

the

issues into the

Congo begins

jungle

scrubby

debris, and, after a

hills,

point where the

and

grass

tall

tlie

for prospecting,

fit

tranquil

its

descent

beyond

Thence

the

the

Luazaza we wind in and out of various far-reaching hill

and

folds,

view of

my

in a

short time find ourselves in full

camp, made memorable

to

me

as

the

scene where, having arrived at " Tuckey's Furthest," I

reluctantly

ass "

my

abandoned

boat, canoes,

and

faithful

Mirambo," in 1877.

When

the

chiefs

of

Isangila,

was a theme with me once from their eyries on the

camped

in exactly the

in past times,

hill-tops

bosomed valley near the

whose churlishness

came down

overlooking the em-

cataract,

to

same spot they

visit first

me, en-

made my

acquaintance thirty -two months ago, they were better

prepared for the novelty of an intercourse with a white

My

man.

numerous guides, while passing through,

had poured forth an astonishing white

man had

built

tale of

how

called all the chiefs of the country together,

had

all

man,

this

same

a town " bigger than Boma," had

and these

consented to give the country up to the white

to carve out

and every one was in luxuries

;

and cut to be as

into little bits if he wished

happy

;

as possible, revelling

and he thought of building another town

at Isangila, if the chiefs of Isangila

were wise enough

THE PENITENT CHIEFS OF ISANGILA. not to refuse

biiii

The

ground.

gifts

given

185 to

eacli

isso. JIarch.

chief chiefs,

of the

had

been

whose

magnified

fears

had been

the

until

tenfold,

poor

excited on account

first

manner they had maltreated the forsaken

ass

" Mirambo," and broken up the boat for the sake of

her copper tacks, and sold the canoe

began

to

indulge in anticipations

flotilla,

much

gradually

brighter than

These exaggerations served

the real facts warranted.

at least to quicken a kindlier interest in me,

and here

they had come laden with food and wine, such as they could afford, prepared to

make

the amende honorable

by

attributing past churlishness to their dense ignorance of

what the white men

really were,

and

astonishment at the discovery of white

down

the river,

to their utter

men coming

whose waters they seemed

to

navigate

with the utmost assurance, though they had never heard of white

men having

been previously seen in the

interior.

Rewarded abundantly by an ample supply of clothes, flunkey coats,

fine

and tinsel-braided uniforms, with

a rich assortment of divers marketable wares, such as knives, beads, brass ornaments, not omitting a couple

of bottles of gin, they soon, with the ready oratory of the

Nsanda

natives, ceded a promise to the effect that

a choice of land by the uninhabited river-side should be reserved for

my

was desirable Regarding

for it

" town,"

with as large an acreage as

grazing-ground and

now from

fields.

a purely utilitarian point

of view, the grassy basin at the foot of the Isangila Hills seemed to

me

rich with promise.

The land was

isangiia.

THE CONGO.

18G 1880. 3Iarch isangiia.

exceedingly

and

deiise

fertile

prolific,

over

;

its fat

red loam the grass was

and with cultivation would nurture

The

plenteous growths of edible vegetables.

cultivable

portion might be estimated at 800 acres, ample enough

A

for a second-rate station.

the cataract

And,

little

might afford an admirable

if

hill

above

overlooked a four-acre baylet of deep,

quiet water, which, with a shores,

square-browed

improvement of the shelter for the boats.

town should grow

in future a

in this neigh-

bourhood, two miles higher up was a spacious plain, well watered, six or seven miles long by a mile wide.

Mentally reviewing what information had been obtained

by

this

reconnaissance to Isangiia, I became

convinced that, with

sufficient labour force

and engi-

neering appliances, there were no serious obstacles to a railway from Tivi to Isangiia.

The

river-shore of

Yivi would need improvement, and a winding-engine

would be required on the plateau direct

the

up goods

to haul

from the piers; thence a bridge of 120

Xkusu

rivulet

and ravine might run

feet

over

to the station

plateau of Tivi, and skirting Yivi mountain a road cut from the slope, with here and there small culverts for draining the

run almost

water in the

level

to

the

slight incline of 1 foot in

would lead across

it

gullies,

a railway might

Lufu and Loa

A

100 up the Muzonzila gorge

either through a tunnel,

a narrow neck

valley.

of clay land, to

or a cutting

the slope of

a ridge, along which the roadway might decline to some point of the

Bundi

valley.

gradually

A bridge

across the Bundi, 200 feet long, and another 100 feet

PROPOSED RAILWAY. would

lonf>-,

°'

needed of extra-

that would be

all

"be

187

ordinary expense and skilled

work

of this stream a bridge 200 feet

mouth

mouth

as far as the

Across the

of the Luenda, thirty-five miles from Yivi.

would have

to

be constructed, thence along an embankment above hio'h flood

lono: to the

two miles

mouth of the Lulu

river,

which would require a somewhat longer bridge.

From

the Lulu the Congo would have to be followed

along a road carved out of the slope of Xyongena Hill,

whence

Ngoma long, or

railway might

the

either

run straight to

Point on a light iron tressle bridge 600 yards

wind around the

would

half a mile inland to

which a bridge 100

it

round

Ngoma

Point.

lead

suffice to

Nyongena

east extremity of

Hill to the Bula river, over lono'

feet

after a detour of

The

blasting of

25 yards of rock across this point, and 10 yards wide into the mountain,

would furnish a very spacious and

safe

roadway

The

terrace, almost level,

to

the forested terrace east of

Nkenge and Khonzo

would require

to be blasted,

be no

For

From Khonzo

difficult

us,

work

rocky

plain, across

small bridges constructed gullies.

Ngoma.

found here would be available

for four miles to the heads of the

the

issu.

March. _

bluffs,

between

which a roadway

and a few culverts or

across the

mouths of the

plain to Isangila there would

to perform.

however, with our force of 130 men, such

a work would be a gigantic one indeed. therefore, prepare to different direction.

make my turnpike

The

necessity for

me

must^

I

in is

to

a

very

have a

road over which wagons conveying five-ton loads

may

is^ugiia.

188

THE CONGO. be

hauled

without

a

and consequent

capsize,

fracture of material, of

engines,

or

boilers,

heavy iron or wooden Perhaps

steamers.

more minute

little

ploration

of

a ex-

certain

me

t

points will enable

^;

do so without a ruinous

^

delay.

I

a

Some

to

results of

happy nature

have

I followed this rapid sur<

vey of the country.

i

Lave infused confidence

-'

in

r^

that

'^

industry what appeared

^

to

g

difficulties.

u

return to Yivi will also

my own

I

followers

we can conquer by

them insurmountable

encourage

My the

safe

inexpe-

rienced Europeans, and

the

large

natives,

assure

our

the

traders

districts, will

them

progress

peaceful,

prognostications of

of

representatives

many

of

escort

of the

also

will

despite

tliat

be the

lower river,

INTEBCOUBSE WITH NATIVES. whose

hostility to ns. thouo-h passive, is

and

am

I

a

unmistakable

;

elated at the prospect of obtaining

little

from among* the natives

recruits

189

for

my

The reconnaissance was terminated

working

isso.

ywu

force.

our arrival

b}^

Yivi on the 10th of March with nearly a hundred

at

natives,

who came

European town heard so

to see

wiih their

own

in their country of

much

lately.

eyes the

which they had

Instructions

were issued

the Europeans to be prudent in their to deport themselves as

natives, lest

new to

conduct, and

amicably as possible with the

any incident might rupture the peaceful

intercourse so auspiciously

The following

commenced.

^

extracts from the report to Colonel

Strauch will furnish other information which no doubt

many

to

will be of real interest.

"Yivi Station, March "

My "

lith, 1S80.

dear Colonel,

On February

Cataract,

21st I started on

and returned March

days' absence 190 miles.

embark on our boats

lOtli,

my reconnaissance

as far as Isaugila

having travelled during

The distance

to Isangila

for up-river, is fifty-two

my

eighteen

from Vivi, where we

English miles.

merely gone to Isangila and returned direct to Yivi by

tlie

Had we

same route

we should only have marched 101 miles, but the country after leaving Nsanda is a cruel one altogether. Deep ravines cut it up, and steep hills and mountains, here shaggy with grim forests, there rough and bristling The native roads lead witli huge rocks, confront us every mile or two. us through these difiiculties, which are in some places simply imjiassablc for waggons. If you will read the account of my march 1870, vol. ii. Dark Continent from Isangila Cataract to N?anda Nsanga,' you will have a fair idea of the impression a second visit along the same route has given me. This country was absolutely impassable for waggons. I accordingly was comiKiUcd to abandon all idea of following the native track, and I rambled about the mountains and along the river, traced the courses of '

streams, i)lunged into the depths of perfect wildernesses the view of obtaining a last discovered.

Still

more there

feasible route to Isangila, is

vast

—

all

which

this with I liave at

work before wo can move on

for

THE CONGO.

190 jgj^Q :M:ireh 10.

y

I can proceed

Tlie first quarter of the journey is beautiful.

Isangila.

twelve miles at a tolerably fair rate of travel with the launch and waggon

Then begins the uivand-down-hill work, the

after cutting the grass.

removing of great rocks, the filling up of hollows, until we come to a forest which has to be cut through; we then come to a river, its bed filled with boulders, out of which we emerge to drag the waggon up a slope which has a rise of one foot in four.

through stubborn bush and

we come

tall grass,

Then another

in presence of the worst of our difficulties

hill after hill,

bit of fair road,

takes us six or seven miles,

stream after stream, while the great river

particular place

is

one narrow wild rapid,

when

—ravine after ravine,

hemmed

in

by

itself at

this

tall lilack cliffs

impassable to anything. " Yet, as

our object

between them, the make a road, then with

boiler

its

is to

and means of communication must be performed. First we have to

establish stations

difficult task

Boyal overland 52 miles Third, to return with the waggons

to return to Yivi to haul the

and machinery.

En

to Vivi, and haul the

Avant, boiler, and machinery.

Fourth, to

return to Yivi with the three waggons to haul the boats and heavy

up

The

impedimenta.

Fifth, to return to Yivi for the stores

mileage of

these journeys will be 520 English miles, exclusive of the

all

journey of cutting a road.

All

river.

total

distance and long mileage only covers

tliis

our progress to Isangila. " It

is

hard to think of

all this

I can see, the assistance to be given

Isangila

and Yivi

" Of course

lightened

;

we must do we ought to have

labour, but

only a small force compared with what

by natives

it,

as

we have

and, so far as

;

between

in the region

will be comparatively small.

when we have

arrived at Isangila our labours will be

the river will enable us to reach Manyanga, where

we

leave the

and one boat, and one-third of our force and impedimenta, so that a couple of months will suffice for our removal from Isangila, with boats and stores and establishment at Manyanga. On leaving Manyanga we shall not have so difficult a country to travel through we shall be able to obtain assistance, and we shall have only the En Avant and one boat Boijal

;

to take besides our stores, so that three trips will be sufficient.

three trips will cover a mileage of 570 miles, which I l^erform without that difficulty

and

we

shall experience

am

sure

These

we can

between Yivi Station

Isangila.

" It is in this

way

I

was enabled

—one

in

1877 to drag

my

canoes overland.

them over three tons in weight). Sometimes we moved only 500 yards, some days we moved them all one mile but I had all my party within sound of musket shot. All were encouraged a little by the steady progress we made but in tliis journey to Isangila'we shall seem to make scarcely any i^rogress. Instead I had sixteen canoes (heavy

or two of

;

;

REPORTING PROGRESS. we

of, as

thonglit, going only fifty-two miles,

of fifty-two miles, thus

we have

=

52 miles

...

to Yivi

Vivi to Isangila

Returning with three empty waggons

material, rope, iron, hardware

1

month.

52

„

„

20

52

„

„

1

clays.

month.

52

„

„

20 days.

52

„

„

1

52

„

„

20 days.

52

„

„

1

52

„

„

20 days.

52

„

„

1

104

„

„

50 days.

.

.

—From Yivi to Isangila ...

...

Beturning with empty waggons.

Heavy

month.

— From Yivi

to Isangila

Eeturning with empty waggons

....

Provisions, iron houses, tanks, grindstones

Making road and returning previous waggons

month.

— From

Yivi to Isangila

month.

to hauling

Total distance, 572 miles.

Total time, 10 months 10 days.

" But supposing we had three large waggons and lime and distance would stand thus

five

small waggons,

:

.Making road to Isangila and returning to Yivi

and rate of one mile a day

Proceeding with

A

all

boats

clear saving of seven

all

.

.

.

jMiles.

Days.

104

50

52

48

156

98

material at an average

months and seven days, and a valuable saAung of

strength. " The only accident that might occur to destroy this calculation

is

a

"breakage of an axle or a wheel, but this would only delay us a few days. " On the journey to the Stanley Pool from Manyanga, conveying all we

have by one steady progress without returning to Manyanga, would enable me to make the most of my little force. All boats, tools, tents, xaachinery, provisions, sick persons,

towards the Stanley Pool, and you

Manyanga

would be

may

steadily

making progress

safely calculate that

from leaving

to the Stanley Pool (the distance being ninety-five miles)

»•**

should not be more than date

we

fifty

days.

we

So that before ten montlis from this

sliould be established at Stanley Pool

with everything necessary

for the station.

" Such

present

it

the view I take of our position after you nakedly and without obscurity.

is

"Our working ness of our task,

force being so intolerably

wc

^ggQ

shall

my

visit to Isangila.

weak compared

appear to dawdle along

in a

10.

Vivi.

Time.

Distance.

Eetuming with waggons

steel boats

ten trips

March

—From Yivi to Isangila

Two

make

to

:

Roijal

En Avant—From

191

I

to the large-

most agonising way

THE CONGO.

192 1880.

March

10.

of going and coming, coming and going, instead of marcliing straight along ^Q Q^^ destination at tl:e Pool.

Viv

"

My

dearest wish

to get

is

on as quickly as

possible,

and the hard

have had lately has lessoned me npou various expedientsYou sec that we cannot rush on with about eighty tons of material, but if we have these waggons we can at least be moving on every day a little,

marching

and

I

our company will be together within call of one another. We camp a mile or a mile and a half off, then haul the

all

shall first pitch our

If we find we can do more than to the camp one after another. we will push on again, and so march on to our destination steadily. If we come to a bad place, we shall all be together, and no one leaves until we have conquered the difficulty. "From Yivi ridge to Ndambi Mbongo the country is a remarkable one, more especially that which lies between Yivi and the Bundi Eiver. North of Yivi ridge the land rises gradually after a descent into the Loa

waggons

this,

Plain to the same altitude as Yivi ridge, and as far as the eye can reach

it

But frequently you appear

seems to be a grand and noble grassy plain. to see thin lines of dark foliage winding here

and

there.

These

lines,

on

approaching them, turn out to be the tops of wooded gorges, where the

most stately proportions. The track (native) and runs along their deep shadowy bottoms for about 100 or 200 yards, then rises abruptly into the same level of the grassy These wooded gorges are plateau from which it had jiist descended. very numerous, and run for miles, maintaining the same character until, approaching the river bank, they open out from the character of gorges into valleys, broken and rocky, which descend rapidly, by terraces or precipitously, into the low level of the river Congo. But in any of the wooded gorges may be found within an area of half a mile over 200 tall trees are nourished into the

dips

down

into these gorges,

trees, rising straight as flag-poles to the

height of 100

along to ascertain trees.

its

feet,

with diameters

One gorge that I travelled

varying from twelve inches to thirty inches.

course would without doubt furnish over 3000 such

Further from the

river,

i.e.

N.N.\Y., these gorges with their fine

noble woods give place to an extensive forest, which

is

probably about

150 square miles in extent, according to native report. These fine trees are mostly African teak the landolj^hia or india-rubber flourishes in their ;

many

woods are also found suitable for cabinet making, &c. The forest of Bundi could supply Yivi Station with magnificent timber, as its trees might be felled, and after a month's drying dragged to the Congo and floated down to Yivi without further trouble than picking them up at Yivi. The forest of Bundi begins in fact at the confluence of shade, and

fine

the Bundi with the Congo.

"In and

its

short, this country described

natural landing-place

above

is at Yivi.

is

a remarkably rich country,

My

conviction

is

that

had I

spent a year in trying to discover a route more accessible into the interior.

PAYMENT OF

NATIVES.

193

or for a richer district for a neighbourhood, I could not have bettered

The only drawback

isso

what would have been a most enviable March 10. Vivi. possession to any nation, corporation, or company, is the unconquerable indolence of the people, and scantiness of their numbers. Compared to the extent of their possessions, the people are really too rich to work because all are comparatively rich. Palm wine, palm oil, sugar cane, ground nuts, sweet potatoes, bananas, plantains, cabbages, pine-apples, myself.

to

guavas, limes, tobacco, Indian corn, pigs, goats, chickens, &c., form a variety of product sufficient and more than sufficient for native wants, inasmuch as it requires very strong inducements to tempt them to abandon their easy home and village life for work at stations or on roads.

"

What

number

this country requires is emigration of poor people (native), or a

of freed slaves,

who might be

settled in homesteads,

and could by which

siipply labour to the stations for the currency of the country,

they might support themselves and families and acquire comfortable

homes. "

We have lately

received reinforcements of labourers from the coast,

who have been engaged month, besides

rations.

at the rate of

The

chief

from four to eight longs of cloth per receive from ten to fifteen longs

men

monthly. "

A long,

though consisting of only

common

six yards of

considered on the coast to be equal to a dollar, but

A

inece of the cloth out of

domestic,

we reckon

it

is

at 3s.

which such longs are cut measures twenty-

four yards, or four longs. " Many of the coast people, however, take their pay largely in gin to

when home

retail

at a profit.

Bottles of gin or

rum

are marketable,

and

Another form of currency is the cheap cloth, tin white-handled table knives, spoons, mugs, drinking glasses, and

serve as currency. plates,

small mirrors. " Though we

help

it.

We

may

we cannot without an assort-

regret that gin is considered as currency,

require native produce for food daily

;

ment of currency we should be put to great shifts frequently. - " The gin and rum are also largely consumed as grog by our native workmen. We dilute both largely, and so reduce its spirit, but we are compelled to serve it out morning and evening. A stoppage of this would be followed by a cessation of work. It is custom,' custom is despotic, and we are too weak and too new in the country to rebel against custom. '

custom we shall be abandoned. would be madness to try and stop a team of frightened horses by standing directly in the way. One must run alongside, if possible, and restrain them gradually, even though we appear to be running with If

we

resist

" It

thorn.

"

Every

visitor to

our camp on this part of the Congo,

palaver with us, must receives a bottleful,

VOL.

I.

first

receive a small glass of

rum

which ho distributes tcaspoonful

if

or gin.

he has a

A

chief

by tcaspoonful

O

THE CONGO.

194 1880.

March

10.

Viv).

among

his followers.

This

is

the

Lower Congo

idea of an

'

all-round

drink.'

" J jjaye jjQt sggji

any

ill-effects

increased their sociality, and

from

this as yet

;

on the contrary,

made people otherwise

silent

it

has

open their

minds frankly. However I should not like to have it introduced into the Upper Congo. " I see by the returns of the station chief that we consume 125 gallons of rum monthly by distributing grog rations, and native demands for it in lieu of a portion of their wages."

TEE NATURE OF OUR TASK.

CHAPTER YIVI TO ISAXGILA

My

:

XI.

ROAD-MAKIXG

—

195

A CURIOUS CHAPTER.

—

— —

The whites Camp in the Loa valley Tracing a way through the tall grass Our first day's road-making " "When in Rome you must do as the Romans do," a mistake What food to

working force

—

— —Village idols—A bigoted medicine-man—Value of buffalo and hippopotami tracks — Gin-drinking chiefs—A determined old toper— DiflSculty about the names of the Congo—YeUala Falls — Market-days —Snakes —Abundance of game —The sun at section of our road— Overland noon—Birds— Completion of the conveyance of the steam-launch Royal—^Troubles with the Europeans take in the tropics

first

—Arrival of Belgian " commercials "—The coldest part of the country—Death of a promising member of the Expedition —My sickness—A day's thermometer readings—Swinburne —Settlement of a trade dispute— Result of 160 days' hard work—Reports the first

ill

to

President.

The account

of the work from Marcli ISth, 1880, to oni T 1 reb. ilst, 1881, 1 propose to put mto two chapters, -J-,

1

__

1

•

-I

with the pardonable desire to exhibit in their pages as full a story as

may

be necessary to explain pro-

perly the nature of the task

the Comite'

d'Etudes

du

we had undertaken

Ilaut

Congo.

deserve attention for the honest candour of tion, if not for the

for

It

should

its

narra-

every-day unromantic details of

its

matter.

On

mustering the force of foreign pioneers with 2

isso.

March yj^j

18.

THE CONGO.

196 1880.

March

whlcli I

18.

vivi.

was about

wagon-way through the

to carve a

^

.

.

had just surveyed,

tropic land I

men

exactly 106

my

at

di.sposal, after

station of Yivi 2 interpreters, 3 '^

14 house-boj's, 3

^

-

had

I discovered I

leaving at the

headmen, 43 labourers,

washjacks," 3 cooks, and 4 native

boys of Yivi as apprentice waiters.

There were,

at this period, fourteen whites besides

Sparhawk, Swinburne, Kirkbright,

Messrs.

myself.

and Moore, were engaged

as civilian superintendents

and

The

and

officers

Esperance, all

of

ao-ents

of

stations.

sailors in

En

whom, of

charge of the steamers Belgique, Royal, and

Avant, cour.se,

in the road-making.

were

ten

remainino-

Jeune

would be utterly

At

this period,

Africaine,

useless to

me

no white,

also,

with the exception of Mr. Sparhawk, understood any African

dialect,

and a company of lOG men was

gether too small a force to bear subdivision. a woeful face I regarded I

alto-

While with

my small company of pioneers,

was encouraged by the promises made by the native

chiefs that

they would furnish help

;

but I did not

anticipate at this early stage of our acquaintance that

They would

they would venture far from their homes.

no doubt wait until the road-making party had entered their territory.

On river

the 18th March, 1880,

and

valley,

labourers being

we marched

and formed a camp,

all

salt,

as

a

of provisions for the pioneer force.

rest of

the

Loa

the Yivi

employed in conveying 70 sacks of

beans, peas, lentils, rice, and

ment

to

the morning

we

first

instal-

During the

traced the line of road,

by

CLEARING A ROAD. means of

flag-staffs

white

bearing*

197 cloth

streamers,

isso.

March

and a

tall

step-ladder to guide through the tall grass

the bearers of the half-mile cord and reel.

remembered high, and

many

that the grass in

in

places

loamy hollows about 15

months of July, August, and September the old grass, but so quick

moment

must be

It

was 10

In the

feet.

consume

fires

the growth from the

is

that the rains begin in September, that

the middle of March

At midday

as tall as a

it is

young

the pioneers were formed in

By

uprooting the grass began.

line,

21st,

hoes

work of

night there was a

clean roadway, 15 feet wide, and 2500 feet long,

and by the evening of the

by

forest.

in hand, along the cord, and, at a signal, the

was

feet

made

11,010 feet of roadway

cleared.

On

March the road was joined

the 22nd of

already

made between Yivi

station

many

hollows, gullies, depressions, and

many

irregularities of

roadway had been revealed

surface along the

trees, besides

posed and isolated

sledge-hammers

and the summit of

During the progress of the work the

Yivi mountain.

scrub and

;

On

the 23rd

much

but our axes, hoes, crowbars and

had

to the

;

large rocks, stood ex-

been

distributed,

evening of the 22nd the wagons could

from the Yivi

to that

Loa

and

by the

roll in safety

river.

we moved camp

Banza Uvana and the Loa.

to half-way

Then began

between

the transfer

of tools, provisions, and the miscellaneous goods carried with us to

when they

pay

we

for the hire of native labourers

should come to apply for work.

18.

vivi.

THE coy GO.

198

On

1880.

tlie

25th

we

aorain

moved camp

witli its miscel-

March25. Banza

^'

lanBOus property to Banza u vana, where five natives,

who were immediately

art of pioneering,

completed road measured 50,354 I write that

initiated into the

and on the next day,

ment from Tivi landing-place evening in

to

we engaged

after measure-

Banza Uvana, our

feet, or

my journal

9^ miles.

a sound bit of

DIAGBAM OF TRUCK FOB MACHISEEY.

information, to which, shall

have occasion

"I am reminded

when

describing the climate, I

to refer.

to-night of the error of another old

'When in Eome you must do as Rome being a civilised city of great

Romans

adao^e,

the

do.'

renown, &c.,

no doubt was correct and proper. But the world given so much to generalise that what is applicable

it

Rome

is

to all

other parts.

supposed by irreflective It

is

men

is

to

to be apphcable

manifestly absurd,

for

ex-

FOOD IX TEE

199

TROPICS.

ample, to apply this rule to a hot, equatorial region, so

which people

destitute of those necessaries of life to

in

civilised

and temperate climates are accustomed.

may

be changed, but Nature must be obeyed.

Habit

me my

If I could carry with

usual provisions of roast

and frozen

or boiled mutton or beef, potatoes, bread,

and wine,

butter,

two expeditions and

would do

so

most certainly, and

reward in good health

find a sure

fever,

I

its

sometimes

have been a sad victim

I

to African

consequent weakness, and months would before

elapse

Had

nourishing food

I

I

my

regain

could

I

strength and energies.

old

been able to obtain

had saved much valuable time,

and recuperated declining energies lived

On

for so doing.

quicker

On

on the same food as the native.

;

but I

this third

expedition I have conformed hitherto to the dietary rules of civilised

are absent,

and

life,

I

though fresh beef and mutton

have only once been slightly

indis-

posed during these eight months I have been on the

Congo, and other

when

my

my

Zanzibar! and

and on the mules and

employes,

confirmed in

around on

I look

opinion that good food

is

asses,

I

am

as necessary

to preserve health in this climate as in all others."

In this village there

with

its

is

crown adorned

of mirror glass, and two

a double-headed

(?)

bust,

with old iron scraps and bits

wooden

ferocious in appearance, placed

chapel, I suppose.

wooden

idols,

about 4 feet high,

under a small shed, as a

These are the great gods of Banza

Uvana. The well-bearded

chief, Lusalla,

man, who uses a small gourd

in

has a medicine-

which are a few pebbles.

isso.

Banza

THE CONGO.

200 1S80.

The medicine-man,

or fetish,

is

in requisition frequently

JIai-ch 25.

Banza

by the surrounding

Uvaua.

the its

many

villagers,

and has boasted

to

me

of

cures he has performed with that gourd and

pebbles.

He

is

so confirmed a believer in its virtues

that in very despair I had to abandon

my

arguments.

FETISH IDOLS.

Besides,

my

vocabulary

is

limited,

me through his March 28th. — Moved camp

advantage over

village in the

The wealth

superior volubility. to

Ntombo-a-Lungu, a

Loa gorge, steamy, and most depressing. of verdure

perfectly wonderful.

in shade.

and he has a decided

under rain and moisture

is

Temperature averaged 80° Fahr.

BENEFITS FBOM ANIMAL TRACKS.

201

"We are carvino* out roads on both sides of

tlie 2:or2:e,

digging into the

The bottom

stifif,

red clay with strong Dutch hoes.

of the gorge

is

400

feet

below the level of

the plateau.

April 2nd.

— Moved

camp

Ntombo-a-Lungu

from

Evening

is

threatening

;

;

to top of eastern plateau

bank

left

Loa

of

clouds black

;

gorge.

bursts of low

thunder and vivid lightning usher in the night.

But

new

huts.

housed in our

w^e are already comfortably

Our

day's acquaintance with the neighbourhood of

first

We

Mgangila has not been very auspicious. a mile and a half from

Mgangila

village.

Lungu

is

5 miles

west of us on this same plateau.

below us 400 feet

April 3rd. the

old

;

graded

;

Ntombo-a-

Banza Kulu

is

about

—Making our fourth bridge, this time over

Loa stream, and a corduroy road

leading to

are about

it.

The

across the gorge

slopes of both sides have

now been

they are steep, but passable.

April 4th.

— Moved

camp

to

No. 6 halting-place, a

mile north of Mgangila village.

Ui) to this time

I

have succeeded in enlisting twenty-three natives. April 6th.

— Arrived

at

camp No.

Mpagassa or Buffalo stream.

7,

west bank of

Length of road com-

pleted thus far, 84,918 feet, over 15 English miles. I

have been much indebted, while searching through

the jungles and

grassy

brakes,

hippopotami tracks: that of the of

the most

gentle

ascent

to

latter

the

buffalo

were sure

and to

be

and descent, and hippo-

potami evidently wander far at night in search of suffar-cane.

isso. April 2.

Ntombo-a-

THE COXGO.

202 I

1880. April 6.

Mgangiia.

had

a

yesterday from

visit

"

several

of

chiefs

" .

.

Mgangila plateau, who were tricked out in the

Most of the lackey

finerj of Europe.

cast-off

had their

coats

large buttons stamped with unicorns.

Too much

gin-drinking was indulged in by the

I attempted to frighten

natives.

them with hideous

pictures of the effects of indulgence in gin

but one

;

blear-eyed man, whose eyes were even then red with alcoholic fire, declared that

when

glass

He

mouth. well,

after

he was never so happy as

was poured down

glass

acted the intemperate

man

his

open

remarkably

proving that he understands by experience what

a figure he exhibits

Xot one of the the Congo.

when

inebriated.

natives can give a distinctive title for

While the

smallest, as well as the largest,

tributary receives a name, the great river itself has no

name

to distinguish

it

from another.

called the Njali, Njarri, Nzali, Xzaddi, Zali,

old Portuguese called Zari

mean "the

of these

and spelled

Zaire,

day to Yellala

Allard, represents the

scene of racing waves

Congo trough, and

known

in the

as Yellala Falls, better

shown there

is

obstructions which the

bed of the narrow

absolute

falls,

The

by our Dr.

In the

defile.

five

an incline of about

But the general fury of the water

by the

all

that stirring

than any amount of written description.

feet.

and

Falls.

opposite sketch, taken from a photograph

45

which the

river."

I paid a visit during the

or six mile stretch

by some

It is

is

caused

giant volume meets

Though

the impression one receives

there are is

that the

NATIVE MARKETS. word

is

rushing,

a misnomer.

It

tumultuous, and

a

is

203

series

of vehement,

vexed waters precipitated

and energy, and seemingly

with remarkable force

out of their constricted and

eager to escape

deep

mountain prison.

While working, even eight miles away, a whiff of

wind from the southward would bring the sound of Yellala Falls startlingly clear.

These

few days the thermometer, at the lowest

last

Mean

registered 70° Fahr., highest, 91° Fahr.

of five

during nine days, 78° Fahr. in

readings each day, shade. "

There are fixed days

for

which are held in central ferent villages

markets in this country,

whose inhabitants and

dif-

resort thither without

fear for the safety of their persons for their houses

between the

situations

and property, or In

chattels during their absence.

a hilly country such as this

is,

the market

some hill commanding a wide view

;

is

held on

in the level districts

a spacious clearing in the grass, or the woods, serves for

a market-place." I

have now thirty-four natives with

weekly pay, on the road. fall

into

tlie

and imitate

They

me working

are apt to learn

;

for

they

ranks at muster- time, answer to their names closely our

Zanzibar, but

it

more

disciplined

workmen from

requires strict personal supervision to

keep them to their

task.

They

are inclined to shirk

duty, and prefer to gossip, and argue loudly with one

another surprise,

when my head however,

is

is

turned away.

sufficient to recall

A

mere look of

them

to a sense

isso.

Yeiiaia.

THE CONGO.

204 1880. April 10.

Mgangiia.

of duty, and a threat to remember

indolence on

tlieir

"^

p^v-day prompts April lOtb.

northern

tlie

most stubborn

—Moved

Camp No.

to

resume work.

to

Ascended the

8.

of the plateau from Mpagassa stream,

sloj^e

and turned river-ward or south-easterly

until the pla-

teau narrowed into a gently declining spur, prolonged for three miles just

above the ravine of the Lufwen-

As we

kenya streamlet. becomes stony and

arid.

washed away down

to the

near the Congo the country

The

soil

has long ago been

naked sheet-rock, or leaving

the stone debris of quartz, which nourishes only scant crops

wild

grass.

which

our

of

plateaus,

The summits turnpike

road

of

now

the

level

traverses,

broad and straight and clean, are capable of producing the heaviest crops of wheat and other grain, the rich loam being

still

30 inches deep

giia village

is

the slopes

thins

it

That near Mgan-

deep enough.

away

;

towards the verge of

to the red

impervious clay.

Snakes are frequently met with in

this

In the neighbourhood of the Congo the

slate -coloured

Yivi platform was

spitting snakes are most numerous. at first infested with a large

road-making.

number of

these.

They

robbed us of our laying hens, and devoured the chicks,

and then

coiled themselves

under the lower shelves of

the magazine, and menaced our store-men with their

venom, which they ejected of six feet.

and

from a distance

The poison must be exceedingly powerful

especially painful

ill-effects,

in a stream

which

to

lasted

snakes infest the grass

;

the

eight short,

eyes,

or

judging from

ten

days.

its

Whip-

bulky pythons are near

ABUNDANT GAME. water-courses

the

m

trees

the

green snakes

;

stony region

number

large

are

on

coiled

two typlops were

;

the

killed

But although we have turned

on the Lufwenkenya. a

205

no

view,

into

has

accident

yet

occurred.*

This day I shot an animal of the size of a small pig, a rodent,

mouth.

with a snout projecting an inch over the

I take it to

Game

begin

abundant,

be

to

and a great treat

delicious,

especially

two to-day.

I shot

harte-beest kind.

the

of

Their meat was

to us in the wilderness.

we turned our road towards

Since

have

be an orycterope, or ground-hog.

the

Congo we

the inhabited district, as nothing could thrive

left

in the stony region.

For the a

last four

days

have endeavoured to obtain

I

noon observation of the sun, but have not been

able

The sun generally comes out

succeed.

to

at

10 A.M., and beams brightly for about an hour, then

At noon he is faintly discerned At 1 p.m. he shines gloriously

becomes intermittent.

through a at 2

ho

at 5

is

lie

silver cloud.

mighty

is

still

;

steadfast

bright, victorious flush

April 14th.

he

at 3

;

;

is

violent

at

0,

at

4 he

is

it is

8,

;

dark night.

whence we obtain a

view of Ulungu Cone, Sadika Banzi's Grove,

camp

serene

6 he disappears with a

at 6.30

— Camp No.

;

fine

site

of

Yellala Mountain, and Palaballa's grove-clad

Mount. After laying the line of road and appointing the *

Tlic year 1885 is

A Swedish officer was

marked, however, by a fatal accident of this kind. lately bitten by a snake, and died within two hours.

isso.

Mgangiia.

THE CONGO.

206 1880. April 14-.

Wgangiia.

down down

daily task, explored the country

and discovercd a spur leading place,

which must

he,

my

by

Our next camp

will

calls it

Congo River, ^

to the landing-

map, about

The guide

the Bundi River.

to

five miles

from

Makeya Manguba.

be in a very pleasant spot by

the Tendelay, about ten acres in extent, consisting of beautiful

short

Returned

to

spring

camp with two

will give about three

Four native

April 20th.

recruits to the pioneer force

— Camp

filling

No.

One more

10.

hoes are

up of

holes,

kenya.

Heavy

with much prising of

The grass

The land seems

useless.

made a

arrived

is

thin.

done now with picks and shovels, as

all

compact quartzose I

which

hartebeest

camp.

to the

close

large quartz boulders required. is

^

more from Nsanda.

and one kudu obtained

The work

hartebeest,

fine

pounds of meat to each man.

to-day, with a promise of

grading and

with abundant game.

grass,

be mainly of

to

ballast.

curious discovery yesterday at the Lufwen-

We

had excavated a roadway eight

feet

deep

through the alluvial banks, when there rose suddenly a shout, and the to

men crowded

about,

drawing me

the spot out of keen curiosity.

distance in the hands of a

and

it

seemed

to

me

man

like a

and several of these lay

I

also

saw from a

the object of interest,

12-pounder cannon

at his feet.

On

ball,

closer exami-

nation they, however, proved to be ancient elephant

dung.

As

these were so far below the surface,

a sturdy grove

grew above the

spot, it

been interesting to have been able to

and

would have

tell

how many

BIRDS.

207

had passed since the elephants' droppings

score of years

had been thus covered.

Of

jigangiia.

birds I have seen but few.

especially since our

Kites are numerous,

camps have been furnished with

Half a dozen parrots have been

fresh meat.

heard whistling overhead

lately

wing-clappers have pre-

;

dominated on the grassy plateau, and the drumbird's alarming notes have been heard in distant woody

A

hollows.

few jays have darted across our

and the wild pigeon's mournful

momentary

— Camp No.

From

have attracted

calls

feet,

Arrived

11.

Congo, and completed the

118,077

vision,

attention.

April 22nd.

at last at the

section of the road,

first

or twenty-two and a third miles long.

the landing-place at this

camp

the steamers will

be enabled to convey in a few days the entire para-

phernalia

of the

Bundi Eiver, Widely

station-building

expedition up the

to a point such as shall

easy ascent to the

seem best

for

an

Bundi Yalley.

different

was the

effect

on us as

we viewed

the country from the middle of a road 15 feet wide, to

the impressions derived from viewing

it

through em-

bracing grasses and obstructing shrubbery; pace of the march

home

to

and the

Yivi was very different

from that crawling gait we were compelled to adopt

when

following native paths.

Starting at daybreak

on the 23rd, some of us were enabled

by 11 by

A.M.,

to

reach Yivi

while the last stragglers had entered

it

2 P.M.

By

the 3rd of

isso.

May we had

rested sufficiently; the

THE CONGO.

208 1880.

steam-launch Royal had

Vivi.

steel

Yivi,

wagon;

200 men, pioneers

and workmen of

had pulled the five-ton weight up from the

landing-place

two

;

had been loaded with the

carts

engine, grindstones, iron plates, &c.

boiler,

hundred more loads of

gage and provisions sailors,

;

over a

cloth, beads, wire, tents,

for five

Europeans

—two

bag-

Danish

Albert and Martin, Mr. Swinburne, and two

engineers

;

and on the

fifty natives of

the

been mounted on the great

camp on

4th, the Royal, with the aid of

Yivi, was hauled over Yivi Mountain to

the Loa.

were hauled direct

On

to

the 5th the two small carts

Banza Uvana.

In the same

manner the goods were taken with the Europeans

to

our camp one after another, followed by the wagons, until,

amid great

rejoicing,

wagons and goods arrived

Makeya Manguba camp without accident on the 11th of May, when we stored the goods in tents,

at

launched the Royal into the river, and the same day started

on our return with the empty wagons.

Mean-

while the engineers were instructed to put the steamer in order,

On

and have wood cut ready

the 13th of

May we were

troubles with the Europeans

for several days' fuel.

back in Yivi, whereat

were so numerous that

some mention must be here made of them.

One

engineer, Hubert Pettit, had died at a very early stage of our coming

;

another had been discharged as having

misunderstood his vocation

had resigned; a French

;

the captain of the Belgique

sailor

had

also lost heart,* the

engine-driver of the Esperance, after veering around several times,

had

also departed

;

the carpenter, whose

\

BY A

Di:VOUBED ideas of ConQ-o ^ life

CBOCODILE.

209

had been somewhat mixed even .

had

before he

and

ns to bewail his

left

Xow

Europe, finally followed his friends,

left

on

my

loss.

return from the interior other changes

Mr. Moore was obliged to be sent

were imminent.

home through weakness and

prostration.

Mr. Kirk-

bright waited until I was one day inland, and then sent

courier with his resignation, to

.a

with an answer that

was accepted.

it

which

The

I replied

third

day

another courier arrives with a letter withdrawing the resignation, to

On

which

the 27th of

Avant

steamer,

after

having been

by 170 natives of Xsanda over the

assisted gallantly

steep slopes of the

camp

Makeya Manguba

I arrive at

with the wagons conveying the

paddle

steel

am

hour's rest I

answer, " Yery good; stay."

May

for the second time, FjII

I

Loa and Mpagassa gorge. told

After an

by one of the engineers

that he wishes to

in the

go home, that he has had

enough of Congo. If

my work

is

to imitate the tourist

it

to

make

short excursions into the interior,

ray interest in the projects of the short-lived. to

conductor— to

l)e,

were, a Cook on the Congo, escorting engineers

as

T

temporise

;

"Comite"

\

fear that

will be but

proceed to argue the point with him. the engineer's face finally relaxes, and

he expresses his wish to remain.

At

this

camp

of

Makeya Manguba, during my

ab-

sence one coast native has been devoured by a crocodile

;

and two other coloured men, one from Zanzibar, have died of dysentery. vol..

I.

P

isso.

Mav

.

1:5

vivi.

THE CONGO.

210

On

1880 29

May

Vivi.

the 20th of

May

my

return to Tivi

up with the

the tliird time to load

for

ou

I start

and

boiler

engine of the paddle-boat, paddle-boxes, and

heavy material, and the next day station to hear that another

succumbed

;

from

Comite to

the

who have at

settle

two

the afternoon,

in

obtained permission

Yivi,

2nd of June we

the

the

exploit

to

paddle-wheels and

paddle-boxes,

extra iron plates for re23airing

fourth time

a

start

our camp inland, with the heavy

A

the

commercially for a Belgian firm.

district

On

arrive at

I

European, Mr. Deanes, has

on the same day,

fresh EurojDeans arrive,

other

to

machinery,

boiler,

shafting,

furniture,

steamers, forges, &c.

small train of mules and asses start at the same

time with provisions of rice and beans, which

assist

us considerably.

The next day

sixty

more natives of the

Nsanda and Yivi and Kulu, with this additional strength ~

By

this time

trodden

give

it

On

;

assist

districts of

in hauling,

we march

and

swiftly.

the road has become hard

and well-

the dryness of the earth and season assists to

the appearance of an ancient turnpike.

the 6th of June

we

arrive at the old

camp on

the

verge of Mgangila plateau overlooking the Buffalo

(Mpagassa) country. is

gorge.

To

all

It

is

the

coldest

spot

in

points, except the southward, there

an abrupt downward dip into the gorge and

neighbouring exposed to

all

the

gullies,

leaving the situation very

the winds.

When

its

much

they blow from the

north-west, every one, black and white, shrinks, and

THE COLDEST SPOT IN THE COUNTBY. seems to

contract

"under

.,,-, their

Even our dumb companions, exhibit,

by

staring

their

21]

pernicious

asses,

thrown back,

ears

coats,

and heads drooping low, that an unwelcome change has taken place

temperature

in the

avoid the chilling blast

underneath our

and

b}^

cots, to curl

the dogs, too,

;

huts

into the

retreating

themselves up into warmth

sleep.

During

this

month the

of earth

aspect

appears to sympathise with our misery. are turned into the sere, the rust

heaps of hematite

and lonely

;

the

;

which,

grasses

deeper on the

is

the bald ridges are

sky,

and sky

The

now solemn

during the

late

rainy

ELEVATION OK STEEL LIGHTER.

season,

was

so

fickle

dense blackness to a gray, unrelieved

and cliangeable, varying from

steel blue, is

by any warm

now

of a depressing

tints,

but presenting,

near the horizon, sombre patches of clouds, darkening •laylight,

obscuring the vision, and contracting drearily

the limit of the view.

On

the 7th of June the boilers and machinery of the

Avant were unloaded, and on the 0th the wairons were back in A^ivi Station for a fifth load. Kii

On

the 14tli of June

camp with

we

start again for our inland

the steel lighter, and the two carts loaded

with sheets of corrugated iron

for

the

isso.

June

and

mules

tue

influence,

construction V 2

6.

ii^rano-iia.

THE CONGO.

212 1880.

June vivi

of a fire-proof store

7.

at

While we are

INIanyanga.

^

drawing these towards our camp, couriers arrive daily with news of Martin's instructions after

my

how

illness,

and are sent back with

arrival at the

camp with

the lighter, I dis-

on examining the sick man, that

cover,

on the 10th,

to treat the patient; but

case of typhoid fever.

On

succumbs, and by his death

it

is

a severe

the 20th IMartin Martinson

we

one of the most

lose

promising members of our Expedition.

On

the same afternoon, for the

ing on

my

present mission, I

what threatens

am

am

time since enter-

down with

stricken

to be a protracted case of bilious fever.

The next day Danish

first

I

friend, but

rise

have

to

my

help to bury

young

wherein

to hasten to bed,

I

confined in a sem.i-delirious state until the 27th.

Meantime the wagons have been

and have

to Yivi,

returned with another large steel lighter in charge of

my

disciplined

On

and trained Zanzibari

the 28th I

am

chiefs.

again in Yivi, where I find

affairs

going on quietly. July 3rd. with 8000

On

—The wagons return

lbs. in

to inland

camp loaded

large cloth bales.

we are at the Cold Camp above the Buffalo River. Lamed by an ulcer in my foot I am debarred from taking as much exercise as I should wish. it,

the 7th of July

I

wear an under flannel and a heavy

a sacque coat, and an ulster, but

minimum

am

still

shirt over

cold.

The

temperature has been 63° Fahrenheit, yet the

draughts of wind down the gorge sweeping over and

around our camp, though not decreasing the tempera-

TIIERMOMETltlCAL BEADINGS. tiire

213

tliermometrically, add to our feeling of miserable

1S8U.

Juue 27

chilliness.

Vivi.

following readings of the thermometer were

The

taken to-day

:

(J

Standard Thermometer F.

a.m.

63°.

65°.

10.30

69°.

„

1 p.m.

71-30°.

3

„

70°.

4.30

„

69°.

„

69°.

'-3

»5

65°.

.,

64°.

10

63°.

„

Messengers returned from camp state Swinburne has been taken myself.

I feel feverish

beg Swinburne not

On

huge load of

cloth

to

am

the lOtli I

am

not well

but send a

letter to

with gastric fever.

ill

and

cold,

I

be discouraged. at

Makeya Manguba with

the

and miscellanea.

While the people return with wagons

to Yivi,

and

the mule train with them for the transport of provisions of rice, fish, beans, lentils,

up the river with the

new camp on

A

steel

whaleboat

It finally lands

Bundi River

is

and a camping place

by

his long

wood

liiiiiiir its

found behind the

banks.

Congo

Game

is

swim, for

lively.

iiavigablc for a mile is

tlie

on the south bank of the

he strides up the steep banks brisk and

line

proceed

to explore for a

coming down

(Jongo, not a whit discouraged

'i'li(3

I

l^iindi River.

live elephant is seen

swimming.

and peas,

and iliiii

a hall, l)clt

oi

abundant, but un-

THE CONGO.

214 1880.

fortunately so are the sand-flies,

July 10.

Makeya Jlans;uba.

o-ad-flies,

and

eliifj-oes,'

o

" ,

.

wliile

.

ill

the yellow creek the crocodiles are numerous. _

,

,

-,^-p

However, were the ten plagues

or

._,^

.,

we

-Cigypt here

should have to endure them, for no place but this

wagons.

eligible for the passage of the

Makeya Manguba next on

to Yivi,

A

where

trade-talk,

day, saddle a mule, and ride

I arrive that night alone.

on account of

conflict

of

opinions firm,

for several days, to

umpire and general conciliator between the

jDutants.

Finally

who

to exploit the district commercially,

and the natives of Yivi, detains me act as

return to

I

between the representatives of the Belgian have undertaken

is

all

The

things end happily.

dis-

chiefs

who have been a little too aggressively disposed, and the whites who have been a little too unyielding, embrace and vow friendship. Cups of effervescing palm wine, seasoned with noisseurs

to

" whisky

and

may

equal

tlie

seltzer "

be, both parties

gin, are said

by the con-

brandy -pa ni of India, or the of Scotland.

However

that

remain mutually delighted, and

the old iron carronades of Yivi Mountain will sound

loud

the

siofiial

for

trade

to

the

all

surroundinc:

districts.

have taken Meantime the wagons CD loads

and have been

The pioneer

left

force, aided

busily going to

heavy ^

behind at Makeya Manguba.

sixty-three Inland natives,

now

their last

and

by

fifty

coast

natives

and a small mule fro

and

train, are

between Yivi and the

upper camp with the individual loads, provisions of

canned meats,

flour, fish, fruit, rice,

and beans, peas,

CONVEYIXG STOBES. and

lentils,

215

canvas, cowries, brass-wire, beads, tools,

isso.

July 3U.

nails, &c., &c.

By

vivi.

the oOtli of Jidy our labours between Yivi and

Makeya Manguba

are concluded, and in looking at

of stores, I find I have

list

quantity of goods there

my

conveyed the following

:

Provisions consumed

276 sacks of rice and beans.

Provisions in cami)

233

European

„

„

provisions, tents, baggage, cloth,

beads, cowries, wire, tools, masts, oars, sails,

cordage,

oils,

kegs,

in

flour

paints, zinc sheets, forges,

nails,

powder, boards, furnitiu'e .Steamer

En

.l^•«?^^,

steamer

lighters, extra iron,

drills,

....

jRot/oJ,

complete

two .

S71 loads of 60

lbs.

450 loads of 60

lbs.

steel .

•.

1827 loads, nearly 54 tons.

I also discover that 21st,

when

for a road,

I set

we have

travelled since

February

out for Isangila to explore the country

down

to the present date, inclusive of the

construction of the road and the transport of the above

goods to this camp, 966 miles, which, divided by the

160 days employed in the various works described, gives us a rate of

miles per day.

All of which labour and marching, effort, this

miles on

sacrifice of life,

our road to

and despite the

fearful

this

toilsome

only enables us to be 22

Stanley Pool odds,

we

Avill

!

Xevertheless,

reach the Pool

some day, with patience, determination, and

faithful

striving:

This chapter and the succeeding one will appear to

me

as I

grow

older

more and more

like fal»le,

though

THE COSGO.

210 188U.

July 30. vivi.

a veracious relation

it is

A

of

tithe

enough I

to maflv: it as the

letters to the

a series of soiTowful facts.

bitterness Las

its

will close

of"

it

not been written, but

epoch of struggle.

my

with a quotation from one of

President of the Committee.

" I have already described at large and in various letters what my and how valuable any reinforcements will be, so that

diffi-

culties are,

You

needless to repeat them.

quite understand

them by

it

this time.

is

Be

they Chinese, Zanzibaris, Liberians, &c., I care not, they will be welcome

we have work enough for a thousand men, yet I have only 108 effective men. " In your report of the dreadful massacre of Messrs. Carter and Cadenhead, you observe they commanded a force of loO men. loO men Probably 150 Zanzibaris "What could I not have done with such a force by this time on the Congo. If I had only the services of such for one round year, I doubt whether Nyangwe would ever receive one yard of cloth by the way of Ujiji again. I doubt much whether the International Association would send such valuable men by such a long and dangerous I

I

route again.

"However, we are

all

despite the hard work. cally,

me,

'

and have enjoyed good health

are strong personally, though not numeri-

and though we are engaged against such long odds, my people tell " we sliall finish it,' to which I fervidly say, Amen

Please God,

In another "

well in camp,

We

'

letter of

I

'

about this time I remark

instructed me to convey a steamer and a lx)at to Manyanga and another steamer and boat to Stanley Pool, and build three stations one at Yivi, one at Manyanga, and one at some convenient point on the shores of Stanley Pool for which task I obtained sixty-eight Zanzibaris, and as many west coast natives as I could induce to enter into our

You have

station,

—

;

service

;

the number of the

On

latter, despite

my best efforts, is

to-day exactly

which is only an average number, I have sixteen invalids, who, with boys and cooks, make a non-working numljer of twenty-four, leaving me witli an effective working force of 110 men, who are to convey fifty-four tons into tlie interior, and have yet to sixty-six.

this morning's sick Ust,

make a road 125 mUes long before Stanley Pool is reached. "I beg to inform you that if the whole talent and. genius

of Belgium were here to assist my progress with their advice, they could not increase my working force, but they might add to my burdens and sick List. I am quite .satisfied with my people they perform aU that can be reasonably ;

TEE SICK expected of tliem.

To expect they

LIST.

sliould

217

do more would be criminal

ingratitude in me. " These and similar facts have been repeated to

you ever since February

The truths they describe should by this time be clearly that I am somewhat ashamed to iterate and repeat them.

of this year.

obvious, so " Our part in the Committee's project is easily demonstrable.

continue to perform

it

eflFectively

balance sheet of work done you

may

be able to calculate

to our force of ivorhimj

increased rate of progi-ess.

We will

and zealously, but by the enclosed

how

fast

vance must be forward, so long as we have only these few men.

number you add

our ad-

Whatever

men you may easily calculate onr

"Whatever orders or suggestions you give or

make will be instantly obeyed. Double our power, and we will double our speed; treble the working power, and our progress will be three times quicker. With sufficient men we could be at Stanley Pool within one month.

we

If

can, steadily

^g^Q

hiW So

you send us no more men, then wc and faithfully."

will

go on as

fast as

Vivi.

THE CONGO.

218

CHAPTER

XII.

VIYI TO ISAXGTLA

contmupfL

—"Seize him, boys "—Fiote law— Trial and fine of Lutete — The axe and the forest — In search of game — Nostalgia rain-storm— Hauling the En No more Europeans "wanted — Our Avant overland— A Day of Eest—Arrival of Le Comte Savorgnan de Brazza — His travels and adventures —Ngoma Point — A engineering feat — Successful formation of a road roxmd the Point Isangila — Captain Anderson's services —A year's i^rogress^Our

Lutetu, a truculent

cliief

!

first

diflSciilt

toil,

and

trials,

1880.

Vivi.

The 'in at

first

losses,

personal difficulty I experienced

this region, occurred

Makeva

Eno'lish o'entleman,

was gentleness his report of

absence

:

itself,

a native

immediately after our arrival

^Nlano-uba with the last loads

The vouno'

"witli

from Tivi.

Mr. Swinburne, who

appeared before

me

as usual with

what incidents had happened during

my

and anion 2: these incidents was a storv about

the conduct of a brutal native

Banza Lungu

plateau,

and had been pleased

named

Lutetc, a chief of

who had appeared

in the

camp,

to forbid the sale of a single article

of food to the white man, and

who

had, after vile abuse

of the three harmless Europeans in the camp, expectorated in their faces.

the coloured men. for this conduct,

This story was corroborated by

Xo

person could assign any reason

and the chief had not deigned

to

give

"SEIZE HIM, BOYS!"

219

himself, except that as the landing-place belonged

any

to liira

white

—

was an untruth

wliicli

men

of the sea country

appeared so improbable that Presently, however, Mr.

the door of

my

would show the

lie

who he was

This story

was.

loth to believe

it.

Swinburne reappeared

at

and informed me that the same

tent,

had arrived from

chief

I

—

the

across

and was

river,

whom he huns-rv men

behaving rudely as usual, beating the natives found

sellino^

who had

fowls and bananas to the

just arrived

out I encountered

from Yivi with me.

him

as he

was laying about with

and seizing him by the arm

staff,

"Who

I

his

demanded

my camp?" chief to whom

are you, that you strike people in

recognising him almost at a glance as a I

Hastening

had made a

liberal

gift

for

of two

promise

the

labourers on the road.

He

raised

enough

hand

his

menacingly, but

to avoid a severe slapping

not quick

on the face which

followed the movement.

Enracred at this maulinii\ he rushed to seize his o-un

from the hands of he could shoot me,

his slave gun-bearer. I cried,

" Seize him, boys

!

"'

and

crowd of pioneers who had gathered about being

tlie

extremely quick to

made a

obey,

the

at

once

convey

to the

prisoner and strongly secured.

senior chief of

intimate to

Ennza Lungu

him

paid as a fine for

and

was

fellow

His men were told to depart and

to

But before

that a

liis

to

notice of the cajDture,

ransom would have

maltreatment of

also for haviriir threatened to shoot

my me.

and

to bo

white men,

isso.

yivi,

THE CONGO.

220

Our

1880.

August Yivi.

natives

of

Nsanda who were with us and

1.

witnessed the tions

Fiote being the

—and

tlie

negotia-

Xative custom, so despotic in

ordains that

quarrel, if a loser,

sjDeak

proved invaluable in

which Ibllowed.

decrees,

its

aifair,

must pay.

name

who commences

one

the

This

is

Fiote law

Bakongo

of the language the

Fiote law

is

as

a

unchangeable as that of

the Modes and Persians.

The

senior

chief arrived

next day, and the

the

witnesses were numerous.

The decree of

was

and the

hostile to the prisoner,

and four goats, which goats, the services of

been paid

for

I

fine

remitted to one

the umpire

was four pigs and three

j)ig

two labourers whose time

months ago

as far as Isangila,

and the

employment of the chief himself to convey three

The

one after another to Yivi. paid, the

men worked

were made

to

fine

was

liad

letters

religiously

and three round journeys

well,

now

Yivi by the

sobered chief, to his

subsequent great personal benefit, which included a total remission of the fine before I (3n the 3rd of

En

Avaiit

machinery

Yivi for the

last time.

August we commenced loading the

and the for

left

the

steel

lighters

new camp on

with

goods

and

the Bundi River,

and by night we had conveyed forty men and 265 loads, or 15,900 lbs.

On

the 4th of

August 19,G80

lbs.

weight of goods

were despatched.

By

the evening of the 5th 17,400

lbs.

weight had

been transferred thither.

By

3 P.M. of the

9th of August, the old

camp of

THE AXE AND THE FOBEST. ^[akeya

221

Manguba was completely abandoned, and

the

isso.

August

new camp contained

all tliepcr-sc>???z
and material of

the pioneering expedition.

On

we were

the 10th

at

through a dense jungle and

Bundi River.

work with axes cutting forest

which belted the

For ten succeeding days the axe-men

Viewed at the beautiful shafted columns of teak, ma-

and

hour the deep

gorge echoed

forest

of half-a-dozen

gullies

and rock-strewn

which lay on our

into

sweet

jDotatoes,

the

this

article

caterer

silent

and

lonely

us,

was

nearly 400

offered. lljs.

bringing

To

lessen

in tlie

the

Our consumption

per diem

;

so that

any

would seriously incom-

and most certainly delay our progress.

For

miles from our base of operations,

midst of an inhospitable wilderness.

round journey, with safety so ill-adapted for l)e

corner,

and acting commissary, purchased every

we were now 25 and

Plateau,

Mr. Swinburne,

from Yivi,

ficcident to the provision trains

mode

numerous

of the Inga

bananas, fowls, and eggs.

of food that

of rice was

slopes

toiled in the

followed us for profitable marketing

requirements

camp

to the loud crashes

right.

A few natives even

alternate

monarchs, while the pickaxe,

tall forest

and hoe hands delved and

spade,

Every

bombax.

hogany, guaiacum,

them as

for the animals, in a

A

country

this at present was, could not

i^erformed under six days, and in the interval of

their absence twelve mule-loads of provisions

consumed.

The

further

we advanced

would be

into the country,

the more serious became this question of food supply.

vi^.;

9.

THE CONGO.

222

By

1880.

the

of September I had advanced with the

4tli

Sept. 4. i.ueiuia

II.

northern banlv of the

l^ioneer force as far as the left or

Luenda River,

a distance of 53,395 feet.

peans and the sick

and amounted

to

entire expedition

—which daily augmented

in

number,

between a sixth and a seventh of the

— had

guard the camp and

to

All the Euro-

been its

left at

the Bundi River,

tons of goods, to dismount

the steamers, and to cord up

all

belongings so as to be

ready for transport. Daily, after staffs,

marking out the

arranging the

line,

route, setting the flag-

and tracing out according

the nature of the country what

my

to

experience sug-

gested could be performed during the day, I travelled

ahead through

tall

grass or dank jungle to explore the

next day's route, ending the journey with a wdde circuit

on

my

by

this

return to camp, in pursuit of game, so that

method of

free foraging in the wilds I suc-

ceeded in assisting the commissariat with twenty-one hartebeest

and

force with

an almost daily supply of

three

buffalo.

These provided our fresh meat,

and

sometimes furnished a surplus to barter for vegetables

from the natives of Nsekelelo.

Liberal gifts to these

natives also brought a few hands for the road, until I

could muster sixty-three aborigines.

Between the Luenda and the Lulu Rivers crowbars, sledge-hammers, handspikes, and picks, were the tools

we made a stony road, cutting off by its directness many miles of inost impracticable country. At the Lulu River w^e w^ere among immense blue

with which

granite boulders imbedded in sand at low water

;

but,

NYONGENA now with

HILL.

a fast-rising Congo,

223

river

tlie

creeping in between and around tliem. .shifts

and expedients of one

to be resorted to to avoid

On

A great many

Nvono-eiw

would have

sort or another

mouth of the Lulu

Nyongena

in.

rises the

Hill, of appalling

covered at the base with

steepness,

isso.

being stalled or jammed

the other side of the

precipitous extremity of

was gradually

huge boulders,

while half-sunk masses of granite, which garnished the slope

much

too thickly, required to be

turned, and rolled aside from the

dug

wagon

out, up-

The

track.

Lulu's cool crystal waters rush noisily below in the

cavernous gulf on our

endeavour to

left

scale the

;

and

during our vehement

if

steep forehead of

Nyongena,

the Avestering sun will scorch our backs, pails of water will

be readily at hand to allay

thirst.

AVhen on the summit we are 350 Congo.

The

hill

slope from the river,

Lulu's in

mouth

to

Nyongena

of

and extends

all

above the

with an abrupt

the w^ay from the

within 000 yards of Ngorna Point

one solid compact

flank are

rises

feet

hill

Summit and

mass.

wooded thickly with valuable and

river-

beautiful

hard woods of various kinds, while the river chafes angrily against in

tlie

Ijlack gritstone

masses

an irregular heap along the base of Into this 600 yards wide

flat

empties the Bula river, which

wliicli lie

tlie hill.

of scrub-covered sand is

the drainage of the

western slopes of the grand and formidable mountain of

Ngoma. Wlicn about

to pierce the

deep

gena our native help affect alarm.

tall ''

woods of Nyon-

Bad

spirits,"

they

THE CONGO.

224 18SU.

say,

worse

tlian those of Inga,

Sept. 17.

Nyongena.

...

guard the M'oods, and

_

maiiy a hjckloss wight from the interior, while versing

darlc depths, has

its

ken of human kind.

workmen make

line against the blazed trees

wielded, light

Leen abducted from the

But when they

h'ght of this, ;

see our foreign

and form themselves

when

and the tough hard woods

falls

tra-

in

axes are strongly

and

fall prostrate,

on the unknown, they recover courage

with their sharp hoes they then begin to grub up the small undergrowth, and with their machettes to trim the opening and enlarge the view.

On

the IStli of September Ave reach the Bula River,

and our road from the Bimdi River hither measures 83,945

We

feet,

nearly 16 English miles.

return next day, and find

all

well at the Bundi.

Albert, the Danish sailor, has acquired confidence

has been in the hunting

field,

;

he

and the convalescent^

weaklings, and the sick have received a fair share of fresh buffalo

and antelope meat.

The river has risen two feet during our absence, though

we have had

as yet

only three hours and

minutes

fifty

of light rains during seven rainfalls this season.

On

the 20th of September I take the opportunity of

a day's rest to

to the

report

which news from the

officials

Committee on events at

Yivi and

my own

experience have furnished. I

attempt to explain

why Europeans succumb

so

readily, as the frequent changes in the staff at that station

would imply.

nostalf/ia, which,

I attribute the reason

mainly to

requires wearisome repetition of paternal

HOMESICKNESS.

225

advice and fraternal encouragement. T

may

these

be for a short time, a

However ...

salutary

biliousness, a

little

slight cold, or a trifle of over-indulgence, are sure to

superinduce periodic attacks of ill-humour and bile of

me

to again

have recourse

letter-writing.

When

these attacks

greater virulence, compelling to the

most tender

become chronic, people who, serious

and absorbing duties

like myself,

to

sickness

Chronic home-

much

held by travellers in

is

mation as incipient sea-sickness

is

continuance

the traveller

:

is

the same

by

laughs at the beginning, but

sailor

consul has

officers

made a

scorn the confirst attacks.

have visited Tivi

an English

;

flying trip to the station

casual glance at the surroundings, &c.

The

the long

pities

apt to

esti-

sailors.

tinuance, but often sympathises with the

Portuguese

have rather

perform are very apt to

despise such ^veak-minded petulance.

;

and

cast a

and news of

danger, causing a precipitate retreat of two Baptist missionaries

Makuta,

Our

is

who have

tried to reach Stanley

vici

agent also reports the arrival of about

twenty donkeys from Teneriffe, " " are

Pool

received.

A-^ivi

mean, contemptible

little

all

of which," he says,

things, not larger than

mastiffs."

I

inform the Comite' of the comino* of three Bel-

gian military

officers,

Europeans, as in

its

and deprecate sending many

present state the expedition

ready for the reception of people

and medicine. VOL.

I.

is

not

who may become

burden by their never-ceasing demands

isso. Sept. 20.

a

for luxuries

Europeans mean more baggage Q

;

they

Bundi.

THE COXGO.

226 1880. 5ept. 20.

Bundi.

have stomachs requiring good

and

they are tender

food,

am

"While I

will require nursing.

still

in the

wilderness this extra work, on the backs of 110 men, is

like the

harsh behest of Pharaoh

more work therein,

laid

and

therefore

let

" Let there be

:

upon the men, that they may labour

Go

them not regard vain words.

now and work,

for there shall be

given you, yet shall ye deliver the

no straw

tale of the bricks."

The Comite must by no means be compared with unjust Pharaoh, but

Europeans

it

at the present

true that

is

moment

new

increase the expense

and burden without a commensurate crying need

for coloured

is

men

arrivals of

Our

utility.

to enable us to

move

on quicker.

A

M. Xeve has

launch is

En Avant

also arrived to drive the steam-

on the upper

river.

Another person

reported to have arrived at the mouth of the Congo,

taken a fond look at Banana Point, and gone home without even having had the courage to see Yivi. Finally I conclude a letter to the Comite relating these facts, with a brief

made

summary thus

:

"

T\''e

have

three bridges, filled up a score of ravines and

gullies at the crossings,

two thick

forests of

graded six

hills,

cut through

hard wood, and made a clear road

thirty-eight miles long."

By

the

23rd of October we have

steamers, boats

and goods

bank of the Luenda, having 322 English accident.

miles

in

to the

removed the

camp on the

travelled in the

thirty-two

left

meantime

days without

an

A STORM.

On "

227

the 19th I find the followino; ° note in

my

lournal

•

At 4

p. jr.

yesterday, after an excessively hot day,

the sky became

much clouded

A

eastward.

high wind

with frequent severe squalls of a few minutes' duration soon began, as the

Then

westerly.

murky

clouds swept northerly and

the southern horizon became blackened

in its turn, a dead calm followed,

until finally,

the

clouds havino; settled of a dense blackness from southeast to north-east, the rain

(the

of the season),

first

heralded by a few rumblings of thunder and flashes of

came down

lightning,

in torrents until midnight, while

The roads and bridges

the wind blew fiercely all night.

must needs

suffer after

our movements

A

camp

may

at the

such a storm, and some delay in

be anticipated."

Bundi

of the mule trains.

is still

When

maintained for the sake

provisions are required

the pioneering force, enough

men can

by

be despatched to

Jjundi River to convey to us within two days sufficient for twenty-five days' rations.

On down

the

verge of Nyongena

— commanding

a view

the at present wildly roaring Lulu, and a long-

stretch of the Congo, every mile of

which

marked by

is

rapids, careering swiftly towards the cataracts of

—we

built our

next camp, 8500

Inga

from the

feet distant

Luenda River camp. By the 2nd of November we have the

En

Avant mounted on the large

the foot of the

we have For

this

ments

;

hill,

steel

wagon

ready for the steepest ascent

yet ventured

upon, the

work we have been most

rise

being

1

at

tliat

in

4.

careful in our arrano'c-

four sets of large tackles are laid

isso. Oct. 19.

.

down Q

2

ready,

luenda.

228 1880 Not.

TEE CONGO. the ends fastened to larofe ^ trees on the side of

\f'ii\i

2.

Nyongena.

To the

the road.

steel l)ody of

the wa,iron are tied a

couple of the stoutest straps, the largest (5-inch) hawser,

up the

60 fathoms long,

is

3-inch manillas

trailing their length.

the

camp

song

is

hill,

Every

"

It is a

!

slow work, but

it is

sure and safe.

command, slowness

hind wheels when the haulers cease

of blocking the

work

or shirking must be guarded against.

down

the overseers move incessantly, with

and hoarse voices

slope, are

hip,

Up and

waving arms

thev look out keenlv for the slack

;

and after one hour we have surmounted the steep

;

camp

soul in

mustered for the occasion, and the hauling

is

confusion, misunderstanding of

arms

two new

chanted, similar in refrain to the nautical " Ho,

heave yo

Any

lie

also laid

high on the crown of the

And

in safety.

hurrah

" !

An

then "

hour

all

hill,

hands

and past the

" sing out

'•'

Hip,

expended in undoing the

is

lashings and dismounting the steamer to the ground. In- another

hour the great

at the Lulu, to

steel

wagon

is

down below

receive the Royal steam-launch,

the

mounting of which on the wagon with screw-jacks, &c.,

and lashing

her firmly to the body, occupies

AVe then halt

the rest of the morning. for the despatch

haul the Royal up.

safely.

at the

an hour,

of breakfast, which the cooks have

been duly preparing, and at to

for

1 p.m.

This task

By the evening of the Lulu the other boats,

descend to the Lulu is

also accomplished

second day of our arrival

boilers,

machinery, furniture,

and more lumbering materials, have been conveyed the camp.

to

[To/ace page 22S,

ASCENDING TUE NYONCiENA

IIIIX.

Vol. J.

nctOma mountain.

By

the 6th of

229

November we have moved our camp

to

isso.

Nov.

a spot

commanding a view of Xgoma Mountain and

Point, at the

commencement

of a sloping spur, descend-

ing smoothly to the Bula River, which, as I have mentioned, empties

between

Xgoma

through the middle of the sandy

flat

Point and the eastern extremity of

UPLAND ROAD THROUGH FOREST ENX'AMPMEXT.

Nyongena

Hill.

From

this

camp

the view reaches up

the Congo to the Isangila Falls, embracing the loch-like

bay below the crooked, the rapids of large

Ngoma

isle-dotted stretch descending to

Point.

and grand, and seems

barrier to further progress.

Xgoma to offer

^lountain looms

an insurmountable

Between our camp and the

6.

Buia r.

1880.

Nov.

230

THE CONGO.

base of the mountain

lies

6.

Bula K.

the broad trono-h ° of the Bula ^

^

valley, the

bottom of which

GOO

is

Ngoma

and below the crown of

feet

1500

below our camp

From

feet.

;

its

north-western extremity round leftward to our camp, there

is

a wide sweep of mountain land tufted with

grove clumps, or palmy

and we know

denoting the villages

clusters,

although out of view, there are

that,

deep chasms, profound ravines, gulfy

which the Lulu and

its

through

rifts,

feeders flow.

The En Avant, Royal, and a

steel boat,

a boiler or

two, and some machinery, have been carried to the

camp

wiiile a

;

few hundred loads of goods have been

stored in the tents.

The 7th of November, being Sunday, The people wash

rest.

work from

in

will be

rewarded with

prized

others

wander

memories

their

cloth, as to

the

in search of vegetable food,

a day of

red dust of a week's

off the

hunt game,

their bodies, others proceed to

bearing a promise

;

is

that

meat now

is

success

dearly

neighbouring villages

and

to sjoend a pleasant

time in friendly gossip with some friends of long standing.

To me ally

and

also,

becoming

of luxurious

to the

useful, the

rest.

the problem of

Sunday promises

So eager am

how

since daybreak I

Europeans who are gradu-

to

I,

to be a

day

however, to resolve

circumvent old Ngoma, that

have been down

to

Ngoma

with an idea that somehow or another there

Point, lies

the

only hope of delivery from this hilly environment. But

by ten

o'clock I

am back

in

camp, bathed, shaved, and

ARBIVAL OF

M.

DE BUAZZA.

becomes the Sabbath

dressed, as

and

:

231

after a hearty '^

breakfast

young

have

I

Lutete'

down

sat

Kuna, of Xsanda,

towards the camp, with the

But presently

read.

to

who

one

air of

rushing up

seen

is

has some-

me

thing important to communicate, and coming to hastily,

he hands a paper to me, on which

with a lead pencil the words, "

de Brazza, Enseigne

At

that time I

appreciate

When

heard of

Europe,

may

well be pardoned if I did not

the

departed for

I

lihn,

1878, during

in

had

he

that

turn

formation

he was

;

me he

is

the

travels in

in a casual

Ogowai.

to the

loth,

describes

in-

how

—who

tall

wdiite

— " Francess,

man

bad

that shoots

spirit

pany, he gave

An

it

the

?

;

" but

what more

" ?

Oh, after he found out I belonged

carry

tell

"

" Perhaps," I say "

he

kept on firing at the trees with a

many times. Now, Bula Matari, me why do white men shoot at trees ? Is it to kill

gun

de

Messrs.

on reaching the village of Ndambi

Mbongo, by seeing a tells

me

to

had never

my

all

accompanied

and Lutete, nothing

startled,

I

gentleman.

Kuna, and demand further

Lutete'

to

this

1874

Africa in

Compeigne, March, and Ballay I

of

position

had only been intimated

it

manner

and

Le Comte Savorgnan

VaisseaiL^

cle

rightly

I find traced

me

tliat

to

your com-

piece of paper and told

me

to

to 3'ou."

hour

later the

French gentleman appears, dressed

in helmet, naval blue coat,

and

feet

encased in a brown

leather bandage, and a following of fifteen men, princi-

isso. Nov. 7.

BuiaR.

THE CONGO.

232 1880.

Nov.

pally Gabonese sailors, all

7.

BniaR.

armed with AVincbester

re-

,

pcatiDg nfles.

The gentleman complexion, and

is

tall

in

appearance, of very dark

looks thoroughly

fatigued.

He

is

MOy>. DE ERAZZA.

-welcome, and I invite is

him

into the tent,

prepared for him, to which he I

is

and a dejeuner

invited.

speak French abominably, and his English

of the best, but between us

one another.

He

we

is

not

contrive to understand

has a great deal to say of his travels,

of his visit to Brussels,

of his

interviews with the

ADVENTURES OF President of

the

M.

BE BLAZZA.

233

Council of the Association Inter-

nationale Africaine

of the

;

Congo River, and of

its

vahie to France and to civilisation.

from him that on his

I gathered

first

Ogowai he was three and a half

the

succeeded

penetrating

in

experience on that journey

expedition up

years,

and only

300 miles, and

that his

made him

resolve not to

have any companions on another exploring expedition, he might not be thwarted by timidity or

in order that

irresolution

on the

j)art

deference must sometimes be made.

he had expended money time,

which was

still

whose wishes

of others, to

freely,

On

that journey

and had

more valuable.

The region he

had traversed was new, the natives were shy, to

much

lost

hostile

encroachments of whites, sometimes capricious in

their wants, unstable in their engagements, in opinion

and divided

between their love of the white man's goods

and their superstitious and unreasoning fear of every innovation. It

was a sore time of

trial to

him when he

first

saw

the Alima, and found he could not prosecute the exploration

of

some of his natives

;

through the irresolution of

companions and

the

hostility

of

finish

the discovery.

On

his

arrival

Europe in 1878, however, he learned that

I

he had seen one of the tributaries of the Congo. returned to

Europe

sick

and exhausted

had

knew

descended the Lualaba and Congo, and then he

liad

the

he resolved in his own mind to return some

day alone and in

course,

its

;

He but,

recovering his strength, he had come out again in the

isso.

Nov.

7.

buU

r.

234 1880.

BuiaR.

THE CONGO.

•

and

Jatter part of 1870,

duly prepared, and

all

in

February 1880 he

set out

again ascended the Ogowai.

This time his previous tuition of the natives produced satisfactory results to himself

and pupils

tribe after

;

tribe sent its quota of auxiliaries, chief after chief aided

him, and finally he emerged at Stanley Pool, whence, after leaving a corporal's guard,

thirty miles from the north

march

days'

bank

;

and, after eighteen

in a direction parallel to the river, he

Ndambi

entered

he struck north about

INIbongo,

and heard of

my

had

being in

the neio'hboarhood.

After resting two days in

my

on his journey to Yivi, with a

camp, he

set

forward

from

few^ native carriers

our employ to convey his small stock of baggage.

He

enjoyed a few days rest at Vivi, and then took

passage in one of our steamers to Banana, and thence

by mail

On

to

Gaboon.

the 13 th of

were established

November wagons,

in the

sandy

flat

goods, and

camp

which extends inland

in a bay-like form, between the upper head of

gena Forest mount and the rocky point of

Nyon-

Ngoma

mountain.

When

at

my

camp, Mons. de Brazza, looking up at

the huge mass of six

months

Your

force

Ngoma, had

to pass that is

said

—"

It will take

you

mountain with those wagons.

too ^veak altogether for such a

you are engaged in; you should have

at

work

least

as

500

men." It

was quite true

;

but seeing that no greater force

could be obtained, and that

men could not

be " made to

DIFFICULTY AT NGOMA POINT. order," '

would have been weakness

it

^

235

to stand wrin2:inf>: O

&

We

^

our hands and bewaihng our helplessness.

and the large and valuable stock of

in the wilderness,

material must be taken on with

order to

build

stations

was

us,

so long as the

and was con-

in force,

of primary importance.

sidered

Before I could ad-

man

vance with any greater rapidity, some

and practical knowledge was needed charge of

the

were

" lumber,"

this

all

of force

to replace

me

in

and an additional

supply of men, however small, was also required to

me

enable

to

do

so,

unless I wished to fix the chief

of the transport immovably at the base of one of these

As may be

formidable heights.

numbers only pace, but

where

to halt the

it

of about

our present

move

just permitted us to

to deprive

would be

seen,

at a snail's

picked

fifteen

wagon expedition

at

wander

I

to

Ngoma

Point, while the people

have been removing the goods and camp

Ngoma, and examine

in the most

effectually closed.

above

is

The stream

for

By

too violent, while on land the sharp spine of

feet

above the

fall

tracks winding between

the

Woody

Could

I

the river I

about 400 yards

the mountain slopes steeply to a rapid.

twenty

to the base

minute manner

every portion of this rugged corner.

am

the spot

I left it.

Again

of

men

terrace,

But

at about

of the river there are animal

immense rocky fragments

to

which begins just beyond the Point.

remove a few of these rocks and build a wall

along the river Finally, after

?

What

time would

comparing the

stiff

tlie

work occupy?

ascent to the

stiffer

isso.

Xov.

13.

Buia r.

THE CONGO.

23G 1880.

of No:oma, and

descent

*

Nov. 20.

Ngoma.

and

the niimLer of ravines

' ^

must needs

water-courses wliich

be

before

crossed

reaching Isangila, I choose the Point as the scene of operations.

We

some

cut

straight trees, about

tall

forty

tough

long, also about fifty handspikes, of strong, hard,

wood, and convey them to the Point. picked

men

are selected for the

more

feet

Only forty work, the

skilled

others are scattered over the neighbourhood collecting

We

building stones.

by planting one of the

begin

longer trees nearly upright, to the upper end of which

when

short ropes for hauling are attached, and

we

essay the

fragment.

So well

ready

all is

over a large

task

of toppling

is

done that the great rock

it

turns over grandly, and glides to the bottom, forming

a solid substructure, on which with care and judg-

ment we may

pile others.

a great fragment

screws

is

is rolled,

pushed to

its

Again we

try,

and again

and with the aid of jack-

place.

In

six

days

we have

obtained quite a solid line of large rocks for a founda-

Two hundred

tion.

yards of a

length

is

needed

we can begin piling up a wall of loose which the higher we can build straight up gives

rock,

course a greater width, as the mountain slopes

away

before

from the

All hands after this are scattered over

river.

the vicinity to convey rock to the builders after

;

and

day advances, the more certain are we that

will be passed

On the pletion,

us of

as

day

Ngoma

!

24th of November, when we are nearing com-

one of the young Belgian

officers,

Lieutenant-

"

BULA MATABI/'

Yalcke, being an engineer

officer,

237 arrives,

and

is

re-

igso.

quested to blast a dozen rocks,' which are irremovable 'r* » Ngoma.

and

annoying

friend

is

fine

by the

through with his task, we have finished

our causeway, have levelled

and a

Though our young

sightliness.

frequently suffering from dysentery,

is

time he

to

off

with 24 inches of earth,

it

compact broad wagon road

is

the result,

along the base of which the baffled river lashes

itself

into fury.

The natives

Ndambi Mbongo and

of

who

Isangila,

have been day after day coming down to view the

busy scene, warmly applaud what we have done, and confirm enthusiastically a

won

at Yivi.

From

name

the same motive that the

Africanus was given by the called

me

Romans

to Scipio, they

much

faster up-river than I can.

the forest has been pierced, and a roadway

carved along the sides of two or three bluffy

we have gained 3700

feet

from the end of the causeway.

it

without a

and immediately dismounted of their loads In

On

the

wide wagons, with the

boats and boilers, are rolled over

camp.

hills,

a fine landing-place, at a distance of

8th of December the 0-feet

forest

name

Bula Matari, " Breaker of Rocks," which,

strange to say, travels

When

that I have already

calculating

in

our rate of

halt,

the cool

progress

through these thirty days, w^c found that we had averaged 42 yards per day, but twenty-five of these days had been spent on

the

rocky causeway, the

length of which was only about 400 yards from end to end.

THE CONGO.

238 1880.

Khonzo,

camp was

Qui- j-^e^

called

natives,

engaged from

western

skirts,

bales,

and

the

About

Khonzo.

all

the boxes,

the

engineer,

enabled us to transport

small

while

miscellanea,

Flamini, prepared the

Royal

for

Ngoma's

near

villages

thirty

exploration.

river

Fortunately, at this time also appeared Mr. Paul Neve, a smart

young mechanician, rather

but an extremely good fellow,

En

getting ready the

On

the 14th of

delicate looking,

who

assisted

us in

Avant steamer.

December a note

in

my

diary records

the almost daily troubles constantly rising with recruits,

which are

fresh meat,

and the

principally total

new

caused by want of

absence of customary trifling

necessaries.

" Albert Christopherson better.

Ill

since last

Monday,

Looks poorly, but have strong hopes

eight days ago.

that he will recover."

"Lieutenant Yalcke was down again, for the fourth time in twenty days, of a dysenteric attack, but

when

out he evinces an industrious disposition." I steamed

up the Congo

and

in the Royal,

myself that the trip had a most fortunate

was enabled

flattered

issue, since I

to discover that I could use the river to

within one and a half miles of Isangila, provided caution was used.

The time employed

in the ascent

was eighty minutes, and the return was accomplished in thirty minutes.

Wadi Rehani

led a

hundred men overland

for road-

making, to complete the land-communication, while the steamers conveyed the materials by water.

ISANGILA.

By

the

oOtli

of

239

December our camp was within

And by

three-quarters of a mile of Isang-ila.

pardonable daring

we were

where

left in

I proposed

made leading

to the

Lieutenant Yalcke should be

charge, while I returned to Yivi to haul the

wagons which had been steel lighter that

On

little

able to pilot our boats into

a cove, from which a road could be place

a

sent out, and to bring a

had been

left at

new new

the Bundi.

2nd of January, 1881, the boats were on

the

shore in the camp, where they were to be repaired,

and painted, ready

scraped,

for the

long journey to

Manyanga.

Now summing

up the road measurements,

which were taken by camp,

Isangila

3,900

tape-line, feet

distance,

should have completed a road

English miles

less

88

we found

all

of

when was gained, we

274,472

tliat

or

feet,

52

feet.

Lieutenant Yalcke, Mr. A. B. Swinburne, Francois Flamini, Albert Christopherson, and Mr. Paul Neve, Ijcing left in the for Yivi,

Major

where

camp, on the 3rd of January I I

arrived on the Gth.

Yan Bogaart and two

Here

other Belgian

set out

I

found

officers,

besides Captain Anderson, just arrived from. Brussels

with a fresh supply of mules.

One

me

to 1

»e

I

that in

him

I

have a practical

Anderson proves assistant

who

will

of great service to me, as he has been a ship captain

in the in

short interview with Captain

Swedish mercantile service, and has seen

many

lands to some purpose.

contrive to transform the

With

new wagons

life

his assistance

into a shape

1880. Dec. 30.

TEE COKGO.

240 1881. Jan. 6. vivi.

and form more serviceable and suitable

for

our special ^

Tvork.

We

have 500 more man-loads to carry, and two

wagons

to haul

effective

men

On

with

Isangila,

to

as our

working

the loth of February

only ninety

-

five

force.

we have reached our camp

near Isangila, with half a thousand loads, two wagons,

and a large new steel is ill

lighter.

We

Mr. Swinburne

find

of a gastric fever, and must retire to recuperate at

Lieutenant Talcke also

Madeira.

must be sent

to Yivi, to

is

but feeble, and

remain there until we are

further advanced and shall require his services.

while he will act as second in

command

other Belgians are to be taken with us

Mean-

of Yivi.

up

Two

river in his

place.

By

the 18th

cataract,

we

are in

and three days

Isangila camp, above the

later the boats are launched,

and, vrith the Royal steam-launch,

we begin

camp

day's conveyance of effects to a

the

first

situated at the

end of Long Beach, two hours and twelve minutes steaming. It will

be remembered that

February, 1880, that

we

set out

it

was on the 21st of

on our

first

reconnais-

sance, directly after the completion of the building of

Yivi Station, to explore the route to this very landingplace, later,

which on the 21st of February, 1881, 366 days found us

all

prepared to commence another

tion of our work, of a

that which

somewhat

sec-

different character to

was now happily terminated.

Computing by

statute miles the various marchings,

A YEAR OF TRIAL AND

TOIL.

241

and as frequent counter-marchings, accomplished during the year,

we

find they

amount

grand

to the

total of

2,352 English miles, according to tape-line measure-

ment of

foot

by

foot,

making an average of

and a

six

half miles performed throughout each day in the year, to gain

an advance into the interior of only fifty-two

English miles.

Take away the necessary days of

rest

enjoyed during the year, the period of ninety-one days

employed

in

making a

passable road for our wagons,

which, unless tolerably level, would have been impassable for our top-heavy wagon-loads, and the average rate of travel will

prove that we must have had an

unusual and sacred regard for duty, besides large hope that some

day we should be rewarded with

positive

success after all this strenuous endeavour.

That

it

was not a holiday and

affair,

with

its

diet of

beans

and

muggy

atmosphere of the Congo canon, with the

goat-meat

sodden

bananas, in

the

fierce

heat from the rocks, and the chill bleak winds bio win o-

up the gorge and down from sered grassy

plateaus, let

the deaths of six Europeans and twenty-two natives,

and the retirement of thirteen invalided whites, only one of

whom saw

the interior, speak for us.

been a year dark with

trial

and unusual

toil.

It

Our

has

little

band of labourers are proud of the grand work their muscles have accomplished, but are more hopeful of the future, inasmuch as their labours, steamers, will be greatly lightened.

VOL.

I.

by means of the

i>^si.

isangUa.

THE COXGO.

242

CHAPTER

XIII.

BETWEEX THE CATARACT REGIONS

:

TO MANYANGA.

—

NumlDer of men and quantity of stores bound for Manyanga Isangila scenery Ntombi's dark ravine Crocodiles chasing us The Long Reach Curious rock-formations Romping on the sands Advantages of geniality and liveliness in dealing with aborigines Kilolo Point Getting up steam pressure for a stiff current ^Kuvoko We encounter two missionaries Their repulse by the natives at Ean-

— —

— —

—

— —

—

—

—

—

—Soudi of Turu killed by a buffalo —Natives kumbi " — Nzambi Eapids — The Kwilu—Procuring food — A whirlpool—Kimbanza Island—A memory of 1877 Hamadi's slavery and wonderful escape —Repairing our steamers Minnow fishing — Ndunga Rapids — A place for suicides— Ndunga dancing— An exciting and extraordinary performance —Manyanga " To-morrow we shall not work we shall see the strangers " —Doubtshassa and ^Ifwa

is

—" A'kumbi,

friendly

still

!

;

ful reception

1881.

isangiia

It

from the natives.

appears, after

^^''^^^

carefully

counting over the man-

— sixty to scventy pounds each—which

collected

up

to this date at Isangila,

through

had heen tlie assis-

tance of native carriers and mule-trains, that

we had

1815 separate charges, weighing in the aggregate a over

fifty tons,

besides the steel

little

and wooden wagons,

awaiting transportation to Manyanga, the proposed of our next station.

In addition

to this freight

site

we

have 118 coloured men, inclusive of natives of Isangila,

and

their luggage, mats, pots,

and

kettles

;

two military

ISANQILA SCENERY. passengers, Messrs.

243

Harou and Braconnier, who

are

i«8i. Feb. 23.

useful in superintending the camps, the one in advance,

and the other

As we know

in the rear.

the distance to

Manyanga, and the number of loads that the steamers and boats can be safely burdened with, we expect that

we shall be about seventy or eighty Manyanga with all this personnel and A person who has once described including

cataract

its

days in reaching material.

Isangiia scenery,

—and the eternal cone-shaped

hill

of iron-rust rock that stands silent and lonely on the

southern bank

—

will scarcely find

worth while

it

to

much about it aQ:ain. I have seen it so often that I know every wrinkle and fold of the scenery round about it. To me nowadays it looks very tame write

;

has nothing of the same weirdness and mystery that

it

I

found

when

gazed upon

I

now know

cataract looks, I

ten yards of the direct

when to

me.

in

my I

Wild

in 1877.

as the

I could take a boat within

Yet

fall.

utter weakness

it

I

remember the time

and misery

it

seemed awful

have long ago forgiven the unkindly people

in its neighbourhood, for

we

are

now good

friends;

we did though we were

but neither they nor I gaze at one another as

an intensity of look as

once, with

mutual marvels.

which crop up

The mock

heroics of the hills also,

to a pretentious altitude,

and assume a

know them

mimic majesty of

silence

Up

have wandered, everywhere, into the

and down

I

and mystery,

I

all.

depths of the treacherous stony hollows, cloaked by the tall grass,

hills

;

and up

and

I

see

to

the topmost heights of the highest

nowadays nothing

to

admire, save

R 2

isangiia.

TEE CONGO.

244 1881. Feb. 23. isangiia.

when

look

I

Ngoma

down

and catch

the river

a

sig-ht °

of

^

and Xyongena, and allow

my mind

to dwell

upon scenes that are gone, and dark days that are

past.

So when I lead the way up the short stretch of river to the

bend of the long reach that

from me,

I feel that

fight before

any

man

will

have

loveliness will

will shut the to

make

view

a bitter

come over the bleak

scenery of Isangiia.

The

little

Royal, that has carried a

King

in her cabin

along the shore at Ostend, could she speak might have remonstrated at the seemingly interminable work she

was inaugurating,

as she

began her useful career on

the stretch of navigable water between Isangiia and

Manyanga, and might have expressed vain

regrets that

between her and the blue sea on which she had

floated,

a thing of grace and pride, barrier after barrier of wild

water made

it

impossible that she should ever ride on

the ocean again.

But with her friend Flamini, who was ever lamenting an absent wife, she performed her work with a grace worthy her name, littered as she was with the

nameless miscellanea of our expedition.

behind her stormed the

En

And

fast

Avant, with her paddles

revolving vixenishly, and ploughing up a broad furrow of dark

brown

water.

The bay let wherein we had loaded our

craft

was a

dent in the grit-stone shore, about 100 yards in depth,

topped by scrub, amid lines of reddish of this

we had steamed with

soils.

Out

the cataract behind us,

which would be dangerous only

if,

when we got

into

CROCODILES CEASING

way

the stream, anything gave

the

The shore

steamer.

little

protruding tops of sunken

US.

245

in the

mechanism of

rugged with rock and

is

boulders

we have

until

passed Ntombi's dark ravine, through which a stream of that

name

well an

islet

view

in

issues into

we have

another baylet.

rock of shale,

skirting

we have a green gorge

snugly hidden behind

;

Then

it,

and right before us

Long Reach

the straight stretch of

in view,

a widened stream three-quarters of a mile broad. the

all

prise

Congo was

If

like this piece of water, our enter-

on the river had certainly been forestalled some

centuries ago.

The land

that slopes towards

an improvement on that we shore,

;

not

The southern

behind.

examined, shows only quartz

if closely

covered by grass

left

it is

-

rock

the northern bank contains a spacious

area that might be utilised.

The silence

crocodiles,

waked

into

anger out of drowsy

by the strange churning of screw and plash of

paddle-wheels, come out, one after another, from the

They

lazy creeks to resent our approach.

dart towards

us with gleaming eyes, or, vainly imagining that our boats are some strange animals, are prepared to

an attack, but when within a few denly sink.

of

they sud-

Whether they explore the gliding

for a vulnerable bite I

spot

feet of us

submergence,

know and

not;

we

make keels

are soon over the

presently

we

see

them

chasing us furiously behind.

The Long Reach is lengthy, as Wc hug the north bank closely. all

along.

A''arious trifles

its

amuse the

name

It is

eye.

implies.

deep water

The

shore

issi.

NtombL

THE CONGO.

246 1881. Feb. 23.

can show a thin Hne

a few of which

frins-e ° of trees,

_

Long

mark

a great

shadow on the sunht

eircuhir

earth.

IJeach.

There are a few

of clean-shafted silkwood,

tall trees,

Others

and of a more dwarfed but sturdy redwood. are weather- torn

;

there

is

bush and scrub between, and

perhaps a young palm or two, alongside of which

may

be seen at odd times a clump of

aspiring

to

overtop the

frond.

The rocky bank

looking

at.

it

On

interesting;

closely

it

our

or, if

the gaping

worth

we thought

we went

more

the

For the trees

dis-

afterwards seen, only served to screen

mouth

cliffs,

like the walls of a

them

of a watercourse that without

The rock stepped out

would have been ugly.

view in naked

palmate

trips is

pioneer voyage

the higher

nay,

cane-grass

of a

two or three

attracted the earnest gaze.

appeared,

we can

spike

tallest

for

first

tall

into

sometimes from the deep water,

massive quay, on the face of which

read the lines of

many

a rise and

Deep

the river stood, even for days. especially if an angle

is

fall,

or

where

into such places,

above, the play of eddies and

the revolution of water have worked cavernous holes,

where

at

low river a small group of men might

ease drying their rise a

fish.

Or

sit

at

the cliffy rock begins to

few paces inland with a more ambitious height,

massive debris being at

its base,

and a scant edging of

bush deepening the airy outline of rally horizontal, the sandstone,

which the washing out of

by

its

summit.

its

had not a

little

squared blocks,

their lines of clays

separated, apparently hints vaguely that

Gene-

man

have

aeons ago

to do with its present appearance,

and

CURIOUS liOCK FORMATIONS. seems to promise that further ahead

tion

lies

Where

we have an

idle curiosity in following the lines of

the horizontal strata

and when we see them suddenly

;

we

curve in parts like a deeply-bended bow, to

wonder what might have caused

this

may have imagined

that

it

aweary

at the

phenomenon

was caused by some

mighty hippopotamus, which had been feeling

are set

Perhaps some of our coloured

just at this exact place. sailors

somethino*

° the blue rock has a more shaly forma-

'-

better.

247

fast asleep,

and

superincumbent weight that had

formed over him, had awaked, and in his struggle thus bent the newly formed rock.

Towards the upper end of the Long Reach the shore

We

softens naturally.

On

current.

are out of the influence of the

the alluvium deposited a long time ago

made by the

river's

belt of trees, densified into a

jungly

in this inner corner of the angle

course, has

grown a

wood by climbing vium

is

plants and undergrowth.

allu-

not rich nor thick, but sandy just where a

strong tree would require

The

soil.

green and gives contrast of colour shines there in the

The

is

;

leafage

is

very

where the sun

a glistening and a sheeny glimmering

shadows there

fined dark green,

is

a sombre colouring of unde-

and below, along the

river,

a line

of dead white fine sand, like a long clean sheet linen,

on which, for the

life

of

of them, the youngest of

our party cannot walk a few paces without feeling a strong desire to romp and have a lark. I

love to see

young men

delight and enjoyment in

of

life

my own

in Africa.

colour take

Nothing so

issi. Feb. 23.

Long

THE COXGO.

248 1881. Feb. 26

Long

soon excites a 2:eDeral smile on everybody's face than to see

young Albert racing

young elepbant over

like a

the beautiful and pure sand, and showing to the astonished blackies that the white

and can run, and

fun,

The dark

may

For

scene.

man whose

has also a sense of

and race

leap,

up with

faces light

budding of goodwill

man

like themselves.

friendly gleams,

and a

perhaps date from this

trivial

far different is the reception of the white

dignity

is

so measureless that

native on-looker on coming within

it

chills the

presence.

its

To

such an impressionable being as an African native, the self-involved European, with his frigid, imperious

manners, and pallid white eyes, is like a sealed book.

resembling his in figure table

human

tones

;

neither can he utter

But

let

;

light of

;

let life

The

and dead,

he hears him speak in veri-

any sound that

man

joy, of

is

is

unintelligible,

famihar to him.

relax those

there enter into those

and

lustreless

views the form

nati%'e

but the language

the strange white

features

face,

stiff,

pallid

chill, icy eyes,

the

humour, friendship, pleasure,

and the communication between man

and man

is

electric in its suddenness.

By

the 2Cth of February

camp of every being

left for

cleared Isangila

portable article, a corporal's guard only

the present, to keep communications open

in case of necessity.

we

we had

In the afternoon of the same day

proceed from the point of

Long Reach known

to

the aborigines as Mbembe-Kissa, up along the deeply

indented but comparatively low shore, as far as Kilolo Point, or the southern termination of the second reach

GETTING UP STEAM. above

The northern

Isan^'ila,

bristles

249 of

side

reach

this

with tooth-Kke projections of shale rock, just

as the southern side of the first reach is

dangerous

to

navigation.

Rounding Kilolo

Point,

we

look wp a third reach

of about five miles in length, and along the southern

quarter of the river's breadth, a long djke-like ridge of shale rock

here also, while the remaining

is visible

breadth of the river

rounding Kilolo Point there

The

before us.

river

on the northern

fall at

to

way

We

steam.

The deep

from side

by

islets

there

is

quite

but the river

is

so

is

the only

narrowed that

ascent possible requires a high pressure of try

lbs.,

Again we

islets

swift mid-channel

it first

with 65

lbs.

the dyke at the southern corner,

75

difiiculty

at the bend,

steam before

ceive the hopelessness of the efibrt.

rises to

serious

and by the extremities of the

side,

left for us,

make an

narrowed

a

low water, which in the high river becomes

a fierce current. clear

is

Between the northern

rocky dyke. a tiny

is

But on

clear of all danger.

is

we

per-

Running behind

we wait until the steam

and again go at the channel with a rush.

are baffled, but while testing the channel to side,

rent's various

we become acquainted with

moods, and conclude that with a

more power the ascent may be made. again until

the cur-

we have 85

lbs.

AVe

trifle

fire

up

steam, and keeping about

ten yards off parallel with the southern dyke, glow witli

triumph after

in seeing

we

are gradually mounting, until,

100 yards of this sluggish headway, the great

power

collected in the boiler shoots the vessel

ahead

i?si,

khoIo.

THE CONGO.

250 1881.

an arrow.

like

Clear of anxiety, -^ '

Feb, 26.

KuToko.

and

speed,

peaceful

we then moderate her ploughing through

skirt the northern bank,

and deep water

on the north bank

The trough of

to

at the

Kuvoko

end of the third reach.

Congo

the

—the Kuvoko Point

since leaving Isangila has

nothing of the appearance of a

carion.

It is

more open.

The mountains and highlands only approach at the bends, the

opposing points are generally low pro-

jected lengths of five or six miles lines

;

the immediate river

show a thin edge of trees, more

to grace

what would

we

take a look

without them be grassy nakedness. over the land from any high irregular surface

the river

is all

If

we

pjoint,

observe that the

clothed with grass, except where

tree 2:roves indicate the villao-es.

The

lono:er reaches,

such as that from Xtombi Cove to Yoonda, appear to be

merely continuations of valleys that extend in a similar direction south of east,

of hills that

fall

far inland

bounded by chains

drooping at the points of the shorter

north and south reaches.

The next day being Sunday, we

camp

halted at our

opposite Kilolo Point, at the foot of the

rapid just mentioned. at hearing

above

About

peremptory shouts

we were

9 A3r.

little

startled

at the little nipid just

After a short pause of expectation

us.

new

we found

two missionaries, Messrs. Crudgington and Bentley,

on

their

way down

river in a canoe

purchased near Itunzima rapids.

Ngalyema

of

They had

visited

Ntamo, and had stayed with him a few

days most pleasantly. visit

which they had

Kinshassa.

On

They then were requested

to

landing, liowever, at Kinshassa,

ADVENTURES OF MISSIONABIES. they were met by a furious multitude,

issi. Teb. 27.

Surprised at the excitement, they slowly

Kuvoko.

''

but the natives pressed on them, some trying

retired,

to

who

ordered

•^

them back.

251

surround them, others advancing with levelled mus-

kets,

and

broad knives, spears,

otliers flourishing long,

bludgeons, what not, as though they would annihilate

them on the

For a time

spot.

it

appeared to be in the

balance whether they should be massacred instantly, or

whether their death would receive the sanction of the old chief Nchuvila

and

his principal

however, the chief decided to

let

men.

Finally,

them depart

and, relieved of the fright, they hastened

safely,

leaving

off,

one of their number behind in the bushes of Kinshassa.

Arriving

bank they nearly met the same

at the north

adventures at Mfwa, but with the help of Malameen, a

Senegal sergeant, they managed to pacify the rising

They then

mob. back

to

no time in making their way

lost

more peaceful

districts

down

river.

After assisting the missionaries to Isangila, tinued with energy our to Little

we were

Rapid Camp all

we

con-

work of transportation of effects until the 4th of

March, when

gathered together prepared for another

forward move.

Two

days later I despatched Uledi, Soudi of Turn,

Khalfan and Sa'adala,

to Yivi,

tions to the chief of the

European mail up.

with a

station,

letter of instruc-

and

to

bring the

After being taken to Isangila by

whale-boat, and charged to be speedy, they started on their mission witliout delay.

Luazaza stream

tlicy

But on arriving

met a small

at the

buffalo herd,

and

THE COXGO.

252 Soudi,

1881.

March

who had been

half-slaughtered in Ituru in 1875,

6.

Kuvoko.

was swept over Kalulu

Falls in 1877,

and had been

captured and enslaved for a short time by the natives, rashly thought that with his Snider he was a match for

ELEVATION OF SAILING BOAT.

any animal, and forthwith with extreme caution com-

menced

to stalk

one of the herd.

he supposed to be a

When

within what

safe distance for a shot

he

fired.

PLAN OF SAILING BOAT.

and wounded the

bufialo.

Encouraged by seeing him

fall,

Soudi rushed up to sever the jugular, since without

this

ceremony the meat would have been

Moslem its

to eat

;

unfit for a

but the buffalo, not yet dead, on seeing

enemy^ charged, and tossed him into the

air,

made

FLAMINI ISLAND.

253

a mere plaything of liim, until he was so mangled

issi.

March

that he died soon after his companions to

had come up

him.

When

the boat's crew returned to our camp,

it

was

evident that the sad tale they had brought of the sud-

den death of one of the bravest young fellows in our expedition, had caused a profound grief, for throughout

both camps reigned a sorrowful silence.

On the 11th of March, our miscellaneous effects having been I

all

conveyed to Kuvoko Camp, with the

last loads

continue the journey, taking M. Braconnier with me,

up the fourth turn, and found a camp

at the foot of the

Mbundi Afanda Rapids, over which he was placed

As

charge.

in

the distance was only a few miles, three

days later I was able to take Lieut. Harou to an island a mile below, near a point which

came

known

to be

afterwards as Bayneston.

In honour of the steady

Italian mechanician, the isle

was named

Flaraini.

Between Kuvoko Point and Bayneston extends a crooked stretch of very rough water, easily passable,

however, during six months of the year by striking the northern shore.

At low water

southern bank.

Reef

show dangerous Avhich the to the

the route

is

by the

after reef of tilted shale

rock

teeth above the water, between most of

Congo rushes with creaming waves. Though

stranger wicked enough

passed up and

an accident. devoid of the

in

appearance, we

down during sixteen round trips without The scenery about the rapids is not quite picturesque. Perhaps we are inclined to

ascribe this to the

wooded

island of Flamini, or to the

6.

Kuvoko.

THE CONGO.

254 1881.

March

n

Kuvoko.

tree-topped mountain to the north of ^

Here, how-

it.

-^

ever, the

mind must be

vessel, otherwise a

The

won

natives

all

directed to the course of the

lamentable accident might happen. along both banks have been easily

to friendly intercourse,

and every camp

Nothing has transpired

of marketing.

is

to

a scene

mar the

Our advance being

mutual good feeling that prevails.

continually speak for us in a

we may passing up and down clearer manner than we

could ever hope to employ.

They seem

necessarily

slow,

The steamers

say, civilised.

as harbingers

of trade

'^A'kumbi, kumbi ascending than

from people

country

the

" !

it is

—

;

becomes, as

boat,

—

phenomenon of a boat which has oftentimes

coming

cries

the hill summits,

view the novel

to

self-impelled against a current

But by the

tired their muscles.

time that the tenth voyage

wonder that every

trouble.

immediately welcomed with shouts

and have gathered on the banks

sight,

of

be taken

no sooner seen

is

who have come from

common-place

not

of barter,

boat,

to

is

made

it

has become a

meaning barter and step

we

take

is

profit.

No

made amid wel-

and friendly greetings.

To move upward from Flamini Island required various

trials

;

but experience taught us that the north

bank course was the most near Bayneston Hill

is

feasible until the

reached,

when

crossed to reach the south bank. sixteen

voyages we were enabled

effects to

Mukanzi

high point

the river must be

By

this

method, in

to transport all

our

Point.

This was more than an

ordinarily

long

course.

XZAMBI BAPIDS. Rounding Bayneston

255

deep baylet

Hill, a

is

seen on the

issi.

March

south side, from whicli at high river a creek flows to the river below Bayneston Hill, transforming

clear

run of about

The

six miles.

of a sloping plain; the right

and the course along

is

it

bank

left

bank

hilly

is

a fine

formed

is

and rough,

unpromising owing

At

various ugly outcroppings of rock.

we

we have

Skirting the shore of this bay

island.

an

into

it

to

the end of

it

cross to the north bank, skirt along that until at

the point

we

two minutes we are the river

we

and

islets

Mukanzi Point.

at

see before us a

which

rapids,

Nzambi Rapids,

By

is

camp

concentrated at the

The

very wilderness of rock

by the

called

natives,

and materiel are

2Jerso?i7iel

at the

foot of the

Nzambi

*

nearer.

about them. unloveliness,

Naked

rocks,

There

The

is

Congo have gradually

the

that confine

hills

drawn

Looking up

after the Deity.

the 23rd of jMarch the

Rapids,

and in

re-cross again to the south bank,

neither grandeur nor beauty

entire scene

is

one approaching

and nakedness, joined with ruggedness.

and broad patches of reddish

soil

intermingled with dark green clumps of scrub. the dusky aborigine

His home there

is

level

grow and left to

is

knows

j^l^nted

that

away on

ground and

its

glory of the

its

of

is

it

the

rich soil,

his cassava thrive.

flow amid

jicard in

to

little

are

Even value.

summits, where

where

The Congo,

chilling loneliness

;

trees

can

therefore,

is

not a voice

is

praise, not a note rings out to sing the

great

brown

flood.

Perhaps a daring

11.

Bayneston.

THE CONGO.

256 1881.

March

fisherman haunts

few days, solitudes once every J J

its

7

23.

^ ^

Nzambi.

craving after

fish

Lut whether from indolence, from

;

fear of crocodiles, or

men between

from some other danger,

NzamLi Rapids

Isangila and

fisher-

are very

rarely seen.

A

among

careful search

the extreme

that

month, though

the reefy islets informs us

channel

left

may

be ascended this

high water we should have to take

at

The north

one of the middle passages. of wild confusion

side

is

a scene

great rolling waves, capped with

;

spray, chase one another incessantly, driving

by

their

furious rush a violent stream to its right against the

northern shore, to

bound are

island.

With left

Long

made aware, by

that there

is

against a large round rock-

its left

before

we can come near

it,

whirlpools and revolving eddies,

danger in

its

vicinity.

the faithful Royal,

we steam up

the extreme

channel, which washes the southern bank, and steering

careful

through the

left

we

we

are

wing

able to thread our

by

way up

of the Rapids, and so

clear

through a narrow gateway leading to quiet water above, and finally to a baylet near the

from which there river leading

up

is

to

another clean and noble stretch of

Itunzima Rapids.

side is a sloping plain,

trees

;

Kwilu River,

the northern side

The southern

margined by a thin is

belt of

more irregular and uneven,

a great improvement on the usual view below.

but

still

Up

the river, about six or seven miles, the hills seem

to gather themselves together in a close

group.

and rugged

ITUNZIMA RAPIDS.

The Ivwilu

—whicli

known

is

257

as tlie Lucage, in the

neighbourhood of San Salvador— appearing

to

navigable river, I ventured to ascend

average

was

course

forty yards,

one hundred

A

by E. magnetic

S.

banked by low

;

rising

and fringed by

feet,

punting-pole showed that

greater depth than eight

trees

We

feet.

from forty

to

on either bank.

this season it

all

be a

breadth was about

its

liills

Its

it.

kept

had a

midway

about five miles against a four-knot current

for

a clear,

;

brown, drinkable water, six degrees cooler than the

We

Congo.

then returned, rushing

great speed to the

Receiver of

an ocean compared

to the

the 26th of March,

down stream

it,

appeared to be

Kwilu.

we had

passed the

Rapids, and the next day, being Sunday,

On

the 28th,

foot of

we

at

Rivers," which,

all

had been our absence from

short as

By

''

started to

we

Nzambi

rested.

remove our camp

to the

Itunzima Rapids, the distance being effected in

forty-five

Though

minutes.

troubled somewhat by

squally weather and a few rainstorms,

we were above

Itunzima Rapids by the 2nd of April.

Food was abundant, though advance did not seem

to

cheapen

well foraged each ration day.

of

six

men were

purchase cassava

sweet potatoes;

purveying

it

was but a poor VOL.

I.

despatched

special

On

such days, gangs

over

the

country to

Indian corn, and

agents having the duty of

Europeans such

Though we were diet.

and our upward Both banks were

it.

bread, bananas,

for the

eggs, goats, &c.

dear,

articles

far

as

fowls,

from starving,

But then the mind's anxieties s

issi.

xzambi.

THE CONGO.

258 1881. April 2.

jrave one scarcely " ^

any time

Albert

to think of food.

.

itunzima.

Christopherson and Captain Anderson, were valuable assistants,

both being

sailors.

On

the latter I could

place great reliance, so steady and careful, and strong

was

Each day he

he.

rose to the stirring

work most

Lieutenants Harou and Braconnier were

punctually.

military officers, who, of course, could not be expected to

know much

utihsed

be

could

shifting village,

of river navigation in

but their services

superintending

camps, each of which

when

;

the great store and

constantly

the

resembled

chiefs

On

tented

tents lined

officers'

the shore, and the cloth sheds improvised

and

a

by guards

were grouped around the tented magazines.

Sunday. April 3rd,

I

went ahead

boat on an exploring excursion up the

in the whale-

now narrowed

Congo. Tall mountains and ridges opposed one another

with steep

slopes, declining sharply into the stream, at

Some

a distance of a thousand j-ards.

obstructing

boulders that stood at the various points caused ripples

on the

river,

and

a greater swiftness in the current

near them, but the water was generally clear of rocks,

and

in the middle flowed steadily at

The ridge facing

knots an hour. Mubiri, and

its

a thousand feet

six to

the north

highest altitude above the river

—just where

Xsona Mamba. higher than

from

GOO

it

in

the

is

called

about

dominates the ferry of

The southern ridge feet

is

seven

rises

scarcely

neighbourhood of the

river.

Except

May

at the latter part of tlie rainy season, say in

or December, the

Congo sweeps round from an

A WHIRLPOOL. eastern bend

259

and washes the base of Mubiri mountains

;

is>ii.

April 3.

but in those two months a wild channel

is

formed over

a glazed black reef above the ferry, forming a large island called

pull hard to get

Once we got

Round

Kunzu.

bend we had

this sharp

through the rather dangerous

into a whirlpool,

to

stretch.

and the waves almost met

over the bows of the boat, making us for a

moment

we committed by employing our manner. By perseverance, however, we

think of the great sin

Sunday

in this

rounded the

evil point, and, striking across the river,

came down the channel

to a quiet haven,

on the upper

glazed black reef, which in

side of the

a couple of

months would no doubt be flooded by the high

An

hour's pull enabled us to descend what

five hours to ascend,

it

river.

had taken

and we were back in camp

to pass

the rest of the day in peace.

By tion

the 7th of April

and

place

its fifty

of

removed

we had

tons of material to the ferry landing-

Nsona Mamba. to the

rock which

transferred the Expedi-

The next day tbey were

haven on the other

connected

Kunzu

side of the

Island with

neck of

the

main

southern shore, while I led the steamers round Kunzu. After a sickening and anxious work

we

finally

mounted

the rapid,* and steamed into the quiet haven near the

now camp. Owing to l)()urhood

the abundance of provisions in the neigh-

and our nearness

to

the

ferry

of

Xsona

^lamba, our people here fared well on bananas, sweet * CoiiM our steamers have steamocl two knots an liour faster should have Ijecn relieved of all anxiety.

S

2

we

Kunzu.

THE CONGO.

260 is«i. April 7.

Kimbanza.

cassava bread, or plum-less "duff,"

potatoes, melons, ^

palm wiue, tents

we

goats, fowls, pigs, eggs, &c., while in our

still

had in reserve from twenty

twenty-

to

four days' provisions of rice, beans, peas, and lentils.

Removing from

selves on the island of

of the

Lukunga

southern

the

Kunzu we

the haven of

Kimbanza, opposite the mouth

Congo from

river which enters the

shore

the

;

settled our-

Nkeniie

of

villas-e

beino-

Kibonda, on the northern shore, awakens me-

near.

In the hands of

mories of 1877. compelled,

lack

of means

my men

a prisoner.

for

leave one of

its

was

natives I

ransom him,

to

to

After two months of

Hamadi

imprisonment, or rather slavery,

escaped in a

canoe to this island of Kimbanza, and thence managed to reach the southern shore.

By

night travel, and after

manifold adventures, he succeeded in reaching the

where, making his case

known

he was well treated, shipped via

re-enlisted

now

American

to Madeira,

He

the Cape to Zanzibar.

home two weeks

to the

sea,

consul,

and thence

only arrived at his

He

before I appeared.

immediately

with me, and from Kimbanza Island he can

look on Kibonda and think of his

even with a smile of humour.

first

misfortunes

His other companions

in the misery of that year also escaped their forced bondao;e, but of the to hear a word,

mad

Safeni

we have

not been able

though man}' inquiries have been made

after him. It is

one of the most picturesque

the river that

banza islet.

we

see

bits of

scenery on

beyond Kunzu Haven and Kim-

The south bank

is

very irregular in

its

shore

KIMBANZA

to skirt a shore that bristles

until w^e are abreast of

bank. Making towards lies

261

After cutting across a bay-like indentation

lines.

have

ISLET.

with shaly projections,

Kalubu

it,

we

we

village,

follow

its

on the north

sandy

flat,

which

deep buried in a half-cup-like formation of high,

When

steep hills.

the base of

cliffy,

out of the bend

rusty-red

find ourselves at

which match the pre-

well-known rock-mount of Gib-

cipitous height of the

When Kimbanza

raltar.

hills,

we

islet

we have

appears in view

glimpse of the grassy

2)assed the reddish cliffs, getting a

uplands behind, and see them gently sloping to the river,

forming the southern shore of the longest reach

PI.AX OF LIGHTER.

we have an

The southern shore

yet seen.

extensive

plain

spreading

out

is

low, being

from the river

towards the distant mountains of Ndunga.

The steamers Royal and Ea Avant had by gone out of

repair.

were discovered liad

to

this time

Tlie side-valves of the cylinders

be

much worn by

fine sand,

which

been drifted over the engines during the frequent

loading and

unloading of goods

ourselves of this quiet

tliem and

make

camp on

— so

that

we

availed

the island to replace

other repairs.

^leantime with the lighters

we

transferred a group

of

men and

of

Ngoyo, whence the view, though comparatively

their

baggage

to

the low sandy point

is.si.

xi,„,^an \

THE CONGO.

262 1881. April 8.

Kimbanza.

limited, took in quite a large slice of the rolling country

OH

tlic

of

uortli sido

mouth of the

tlic

river just opposite to us to the distant

horizon of low

cleaved by

hills,

the eastern side of the

naked,

and steep

stiff,

its

On

upper course.

Lualla the land suddenly up-

tabular mountain block, which exposes

a

lifted into

Cougo, extending from the

slopes,

many

over which

foot-

paths lead from fishing haunts on the river's rocks to the hamlet-clusters

wood groves on banza

Islet to

under the palm-trees and cotton-

the summit.

Ngoyo Point

All the

the

Congo

way from Kima noble river,

is

a mile wide, and more in some places, with a low plain

on one hills

side,

and an interesting open country of low

on the other.

But just above the sandy point

it

becomes confined in a deep carion again, of only some

800 or 900 yards wide, where obstructed

;

it is

swift,

wrathful

strong everywhere.

Crocodiles are numerous at this place

has

its

lazy

when

inhabitant

;

;

the mouths of the

every baylet

many

small,

streams entering the bays and deep curves of

either shore furnish the sly amphibia with harvests of fish.

Through some

particular

cause

all this

portion of

the Congo up to

Ndunga Rapids

minnow

Every few hundred yards one may

fishing.

see the canoes

is

a great resort for

going round with the eddies within the

deep curves of the irregular shores, with the ample

hoop and net submerged, and on the the

minnows

flat

rocks close

by

are spread out drying, or rather baking,

under the heat of the

fierce sun.

"

XGOYO.

2()3

much more dense than at any place we liave seen since we left the sea, but the people are unchanged in mood and temper, all of them being uniformly amiable. They collect in The population of

this region is

1

1

•

1

1

r>

1

greater numbers on the shore to welcome our coming,

DIAGRAM OF NEW STEAMER, " LE STANLEY." {Since added

to the Flotilla

of the Association.

Capacity 30

Tons.')

but two or three days must always elapse before provisions are brought,

On last

and bartering

the 19 th of i^pril I left

load on board the

to clear the island in

En

one

is

in full swing.

Kimbanza

islet

Tn order

Avant, at 3.45 p.m. trip I

I

with the

had greatly overpacked

n^i

PLAN OF STEAMER.

the

little

paddle-steamer, which, carrying thirty-three

men and two

tons of goods, arrived at

in a rain-storm,

attention,

tional )]c

at 0.53,

and thick black clouds which threatened

worse weather. Tired as

my

Ngoyo

and

tlic

I

was, a sick engineer

demanded

querulousness of others of ques-

humour considerably

increased

my

anxieties.

issi. April 19.

Kimbanza.

THE CONGO.

264

On

1S81. April 27.

xdunga,

we were

the 27tli of April

^^

NduDga Rapids

the

where the Congo slopes,

Were

pent in between steep

is

slightest trace of

sterile

humanity.

not for the all-absorbing duties which require

dawn

undivided attention from the grey

we

windy trough

in the gusty,

which show not the

it

gathered together

all

,

.

.

to darkness,

should long ago have surrendered to the depression

which such bleak and dreary scenes are well calculated Those

to produce.

were not

less interested, or those

my

so fully occupied as

whose minds

own, have long been

Xeve

victims to shivering and chill attacks and fever. the engineer has been seriously officers

have suffered

lapses,

ill

the two military

one after another

Albert has been seen with his eyes

more melancholy than

;

ever.

less

bright

;

3'oung

;

Flamini

Only Captain Anderson

and myself have as yet been proof against the malignant influences prevailing in the depths of the

of the Congo.

gloomy trough

It is past eight o'clock in the

before the sunshine lights

up the

river's

morning

sombre face

at four o'clock in the afternoon the sunshine has gone.

Then

the

winds

blow

the

chilly,

shadows

become

deeper, a grey spectral-like solemnity steals over the

gorge

;

and from a

light bronze, reflecting numberless

gleams and sparkles, the river has assumed a

dull,

black

All of these aspects combined might well serve to

hue.

intensify suicidal thoughts in diseased imaginations. I

marvel not

gorge.

abandonment of the Congo

Nature has begrudged

as vegetable dull-red

at tlie utter

—

clays,

to the scene.

coarse

grasses

life

—animal

as

well

Bare rocks and naked,

and

worthless

scrub,

XDUNGA DAXCING. hanging on

to small patches of

2G5

humus, cannot .

attraction

to

human

The aborigines

beings.

have

and contentedly

therefore abandoned the churlish gorge, settled themselves

any

offer

.

on the open uplands

tliree

hundred

yards above the lonely stream, where they can view the

sun coming sing,

and

fast

on the heels of night, and hear the birds

feel the

warmth

of vivid

inspired

life

anew

with the fulness of the day.

Ndunga's people came down from their u|)lands to give us a great demonstration

and

hill-tops

—the women

with their treasures of eatables, the children with basketfuls of sweet potatoes and eggs

j^alm-wine and dried

minnows

;

the

;

men with

the fishermen, whose

baskets were swinging in the current of the ruffled

water near their shore, with fresh

A

fish.

extemporised, which was well attended

;

market was

and

after a

few

hours of lively barter none of the youths and maidens, all

and lithesome creatures, were loth

fleshy

us specimens of

Ndunga

dancing.

to

show

Their performances

were very clever considered from a native standpoint. It

was barbarous, of

pean art

course,

when compared with Euro-

but the leaping and prancing and Pyrrhic

;

movements were thoroughly- —even with earnestness done.

The

finale,

however, was curious.

danced they joined hands and formed a they were about to sing

'

Auld lang

While

circle, as

syne.'

tliey

though

Two

de-

tached themselves from the crowd without, and entered the circle

;

the youngest climbed up on the shoulders

of his companion, unsheatlied a sliarp knife, and led out

a

loud chorus.

tlieii

AVlien the chorus sang out

issi. April "27.

^dunga.

THE CONGO.

266 1881. April 27.

xdunga.

loudest, eacli time he

drew

.

length of his tongue until his jaws

tlie

knife's ede'e *

down

.

the

_

tlie

blood began to drip, and

were covered with blood.

Hiirher and hi2:lier

sang the choru?, quicker and quicker revolved the circle,

and more

tongued youngster, all

and daring became

frantic

until, fearing that

control over themselves,

the

given, and the dancers were

When

tlie

bloody-

they might lose

signal

to

was

stop

made happy with

gifts.

the self-mutilated youngster had washed himself

he seemed none the worse for his extraordinary

excite-

ment, and softly laughed as I patted him on the back

and dismissed him with

On

the 28th of April, while the goods were being-

conveyed across to another

a

low terrace from one baylet below

above the Xdunga Rapids, to

had

steamers, which in order to take

the north shore as

his reward.

to cross the

assist

the

river at this place

advantage of the smoother water on

—

I ascended in the whale-boat as far

Manyanga, even up

to the foot of the cataract.

I

knew that the cataract was impassable, but we were now Hearing the conclusion of our river journey, and it was necessary

to decide

upon the

site

of the station to

be established.

A

more

unlovely scene than that

lifeless, cheerless,

around Manyanga

it

is

scarcely possible to conceive.

The

slopes of the upland,

500

feet

which

rises

on either side

above the river, are extremely steep, in some

places even precipitous. tion

might thrive seems

clay

down

to a

narrow

All the to be

soil

on which vegeta-

washed clean

off the

red

terrace, or into the depths of the

"

TO-MOBROW WE SHALL NOT WOBK."

narrow ravines, where we tliese slopes

run

slieer

see dark lines of trees.

down

to the

267

Where

Congo we have only

masses of grit-stone piled one above another in admirable disorder.

A

few projecting points of these rocks

have permitted a broad deposit of white sand

np indentations

in the shore, which, enriched

from above, have become

It

fertile terraces.

to

by

was

fill

soil

at

one

of these, nearest the cataracts, that I proposed to settle

my camp

initil

the station

we

we

could decide where

—whether on the

should build

upon some

terrace or

avail-

Since Vivi and Isangila were on the

able hill near.

north bank of course I "wished to continue the chain of stations

on that bank,

so that, in case of accidents to

communication might be continued by land.

boats,

On

the terrace nearest to the cataract a group of fisher-

men were

seated,

and with these people

man and

white

his

many

assisted over the cataract of called. til at

provisions

When it

They brought

They remembered

whom

canoes,

they had

Xtombo Mataka,

us a present of

fish,

the

as

it is

and promised

should be got ready by next day.

asked where

was immaterial

commenced

Old memories

a conversation to test their good-will.

were revived in a brief time.

I

we might camp, they

—anywhere

in the

indicated that

neighbourhood we

should find suitable.

My

we had begun our Ndunga, that he heard one woman say to Oh, to-morrow we shall not work we shall

interpreter said to me, after

return to another, "

—

see the strangers."

At

A.M. of the 2nth

we commenced

the final stau'e of

issi. April 2S.

>,Munga.

1881. April 29. isianvanga.

268

TEE COXCW.

the river work, aud to

remove omv personml and ,

Manyanga.

^^ ^^^ higliest terracs nearest the cataract oi

The

landing-place

season

—a

was

we

all

to the river,

The

when we

for us

Avant

for

Stanley Pool, or

when

the station chief

The

the more promising

—the

we proposed

more

I looked at

appeared, though

it

disadvantage of being cultivated. be over a mile, while

her overland

for repairs or for

ledge where

fertile

lodge ourselves temporarily

A

smoothly

En

should wish to haul up his boats

yards.

to be at this

terrace sloped

which would be admirable

should have to haul the

painting.

it

calm haven, shielded from the currents by

a sedge-covered bank.

journey to

could wi.sh

materiel

to it

had the

it

In length

it

might

breadth varied from 80 to 300

its

small perennial brooklet close by appeared

to promise drinkable water.

For temporary tenting

ground there was an uncultivated space which, when cleared,

proved

sufficiently large.

Captain Anderson and Albert were appointed to the

Royal and

En

Avant

to continue the transport of the

camj), while I waited for

been requested to

visit

two of the headmen who had

me.

About mid-day two head-

men

appeared,

were

liberal witli their offers of prdrn-wine,

u.sual

on such occasions, they drank.

called

Xakussa and Luamba.

They

which, as

In return they

received coats, whole pieces of cloth, knives, &c. I then hinted that I

at

Manyanga, and

my men

might

like to settle

to build a tow^h

and goods

w^hile I visited

where

up

I

permanently

might leave

river.

They did

not appear to be very elated at the prospect, and the

A DOUBTFUL BECEPTIOX. utmost encouragement that I conld ,

o-et

^

209

from them was

.

.

the assurance that there was no objection to our stay-

ing where we were nearly so genial in

When

asked

if

manner

them

killed

they were the only chiefs of ]Man-

all

—

at

all

dead

which we expressed

proved unavailing, however_, in the

fitting

Xdunga and

elsewhere.

successful as to enable

me

Still,

evoke

to

effort

those signs of hearty friendship which

down

sickness

;

Everything that our experience suggested

sympathy.

with at

Ndunga.

as the natives of

yanga, they said that the chiefs were

had

They were not

for the present.

we had met

though not

forthwith to send carriers

the river with despatches to announce that

were about grounds

so

to l3uild our central depot,

for believing that,

we had

sufficient

beyond a vague

of us, there were no reasons to anticipate

we

distrust

a

serious

opposition to the building of our station in the district.

On

the morning of the 1st day of May, 1881,

had completed the transfer of the to

we camp from Ndunga

Manyanga.

Thus we had completed within seventy days

a total

journey of 24G4 English statute miles, by ascending

and descending the various reaches from camp in

fourteen

round voyages, the

entire

to

camp

distance

of

eighty-eight miles of navigable

water that extends

lietween the cataract of Isangila

and the cataract of

Xtombo Mataka,

We

abreast of the district of

Manyanga.

were now 140 miles above Yivi, to accomplish

wliich

distance

we had

road-making and

in

Ijeen

employed 43 G days in

conveying

fifty

tons

of goods

issi. April 29. :i[aavan
THE CONGO.

270 1881.

Manyanga.

with a force of sixty-eight Zanzibaris and an equal i^umber of West Coast and inland natives. this period

we had

divided by the transport

travelled

number

During

4816 English miles which

of days occupied in this

work gives a quotient

heavy

of over eleven miles

per day

Between us and our destination

at Stanley

Pool

estimated that there were ninety-five English miles

we still

to be accomplished in the face of similar difficulties.

For, thouQ-h I intended to leave about three-fourths of

the goods at the

Manyanga

station,

which would be a

kind of a base for

us, yet, as I should

a garrison behind

me

limited,

our

unless

we

assist

us.

difiSculties

out of a

have

to leave

number already too

would not be much lessened

could engage natives along the route to

My

experience

of

the

kindly

natives

between the Pool and Manyanga in 1877 buoyed

up

in the hope I

now

indulged, otherwise

would have been dismal indeed.

my

me

position

THE APPROACH OF FEVEB.

CHAPTER

271

XIY.

FEVER AT MANYANGA. I

am

jDrostrated

A

—Preparing for death—Awakening to —Joyful news—Eeinforcements from Zanzibar arrival — Agreement with the chiefs of Manyanga

by

fever

life

voracious appetite

—Lindner's

Erecting the station.

To whatever

was owing

it

currents of wind

that

— whether

to

the

chilly

came rushing up the Congo to the long-continued

to the heat of the fierce

sun reflected from the rocks, or

my

long strain on

system that this continually

work had caused,

harassing

which annually recurs about of the rainy season, I

my

arrival at

on

tlie

was

or to

this

cold

season

time just at the close

in doubt,

Manyanga,

the

—but four days

I felt feverish.

My

however, that

after

illness

fii'st

day was

so slight,

not prevent

me from

attending an important palaver,

at

which

chiefs of

I

obtained a promise from

Manyanga

tliat at anotlier

district,

all

the 0th of

severity,

it

did

the principal

assembled in the camp,

meeting perhaps a definite agreement

about settlement in Manyanga would be arrived

On

^^lauvang

exposure

gorge day after day, or

to the

issi. ^lay 1.

May my

at.

fever returned with a greater

which compelled

rae to

keep

to

my

bed,

and

THE CONGO.

272 1881.

ManvaD<'a.

tLe chiefs, not Leing able to see me, returned to their ^^^^ villages

the

Avithout

of an

satisfaction

inter-

view.

The next day the virulence,

and

seemed

he useless.

to

fever returned with

greater

still

to prevent its recurring attacks medicine

had enjoyed about twelve

I

months of almost uninterrupted good fever appeared to

me

health,

to be too slow in its

and

full

this

advance to

more than a renewed application of the usual

call for

To say

remedies adopted in such cases.

was more exasperated

the truth, I

at its recurrence at such

an un-

lucky period than alarmed at the persistence and the unyielding nature of the attack despite potions

was not

;

but on the next day,

and heavy doses of medicine, the system

relieved,

and the fever advanced each twenty-

four hours with increased virulence.

On

the

9th

of

May

I

was attacked with nausea,

and througliout the day the fever burned within

my

veins without any intermission, although I watched

my

state intently, to take

the slightest pause,

advantage,

if

any

offered, of

Believing that the terrace was per-

haps too close for a sick man, I caused pitched on the summit of a

hill

280

feet

my

tent to be

above the

river,

and commanding the terrace on which the camp was situated.

and

still

But the seventh day of the fever advanced, there were no signs of remission, until the

morning of the eighth day, when

I seized the opportunity

of taking twenty grains of quinine dissolved in some

hydrobromic

acid,

which was happily retained

stomach without a qualm.

The

effect of this

in the

powerful

^.V

was

dose

INCBEASING FEVEIL

my

to disturb

273

and clearness of

thoughts

issi.

May 1^1^*^^'

On the eighth day of the fever,

I

was exceedingly

might recommence

but, as the attack

;

wlieii I recovered con-

became convinced that

sciousness, I

weak

shortly, I

caused thirty grains of quinine to be weighed out, and

when mixed up with

the acid for immediate solution I

greedily drank the medicine for

a

—and

again I became unconscious of

not a whit too soon,

my surroundings, save

vague indefiniteness on which no reliance

certain

could be placed.

For

six

days longer the fever

kept on unrelent-

still

There were, each twenty-four hours, short

ingly.

pauses of intermission, during which

awake and

to

was

I

alive to everything uttered in

But these pauses were too curtailed

my

;

that I

hill-top,

hearing.

was very

I

was exceedingly weak, almost alone on the

having only

to

me

me

to suggest

that

;

clearly

admit of more

than the grim impression of the fact that ill

]\I.

Mabruki and Dualla

little

to attend

Braconnier once a day called to see

some new remedy, the value of a

little

broth, or a beaten ^%'g^

and the pressing necessity

existed to take larger

and larger doses of quinine,

the

tenacious

faith

tliat

But on the fourteenth day scarcely

lift

my

turned, or

though YOL.

I r.

felt

I

arms, and to

without support.

lifted,

alone would

it

arrest

tliat

in

the

malady.

terrible

sible

11.

Manyanga.

was sit

up

Limp and

moved by

the

weak

so

in

that

1

could

bed was impos-

nerveless, I lay to be

young negroes,

grateful for their services, I

to

whom,

was conT

THE CONGO.

274 1881.

May

vinced

becomino* exceedino-ly was gradually "

I

18.

Manyanga.

.

.

.

now

Aiid after the mediciiie, wLiicU Ijad grains of quinine, had been taken

on

laid

my

the

pillow

to

my

tedious.

.

risen to fifty

head would be

hear the hard throbbing- in

head reyerberated through the pillow like a loud

beating of a drum, until, losing consciousness, I was

my

obliyious to

On

pains and protracted infirmity.

the 20th of

weakness seemed soon as

I

woke

May, about to

me

my

sickness and

As

have approached a climax.

mind and

to clearness of

dreadful prostration of sessed

7 a.m.,

my

realised the

body, a presentiment pos-

Weaker

that I should die.

tljan this,

and

yet possessing powers of speech and thought, I doubted

whether man could possibly

be,

with which idea came

the thought that the crisis had arrived, and that death

was not

far

off.

Then came an urgent

desire to

pay

am

the last offices of friendship and regard which I

eager to perform, the people

if little

— European

Mabruki

will hasten to call

and Zanzibaris

—

up

Dualla

to me.

meantime has weighed out sixty grains of quinine, over whicli he has dropped a few minims of hydro-

bromic

acid,

and poured an ounce of Madeira wine,

which he must deliver between the world were given to

me

I

my

lips,

could not

for

lift

if

all

the glass

unaided.

Like lightning the potent medicine courses through

mv

veins.

I

rapidly over

feel its

my

fast

overpowering influence stealing bewildering senses, and I beg

Dualla to hasten up the people before late.

it

will be

too

*^

PnEPABING FOB DEATH. In a short time there

is

275

a rush of many feet round the

issi.

May

Tlie walls of the tent are lifted up.

tent.

I

can see a

bright yet cold sunshine on the semi-circular rows of

My

seated forms around.

and

to the foot of the bed,

my

European comrades advance and

fleeting senses to address

they should do when

seemed

to advise

between

and

intelligible,

my

them what

My

would be over.

all

to be distracted

say something

hard to recall

I struggle

thoughts

strong desire to

strange penitent

a

brooding over a hollowed grave somewhere which

drew nearer and nearer

to me, wdiile in the far distance

there burned a great white light, wdiose bright glowing-

globe attracted trate

my

me

on the

attention

Again and yet again words that "

my

my

despite

lips

silent

concen-

and expectant throng.

would not frame.

Fasten your eyes on

his eyes steadily

effort to

I strove strenuously to utter the

Look well on me, Albert,"

And the young

utmost

me

sailor,

that I

"

I cried.

may

tell

Do

not move.

you."

whose hand clasped mine, fixed

on mine

to enable

me

to

conquer the

oppressive drowsiness, and the sentence was at after

many

which

efforts,

delivered clearly and intelligently, at

I felt so relieved

out, " I

am

saved

over me, the

last,

" !

from

distress that I cried

Then suddenly a dark cloud came

perception

and oblivion which

my

lasted

of the

many

scene

away,

faded

hours shut out the

sense of things.

When

I

woke next day

I

found that

twenty-four hours in one position, for so great that unaided I could not

I

had

lain for

my weakness

have moved. T 2

was ^Fy

20.

Manyanga.

TEE CONGO.

276

and bed-sores tormented back seemed to be palsied, ^

1881.

May

'

21.

mc^ but

Manyanga.

felt

waking

recked of these

tilings.

I

a desire to eat, and a repugnance to medicine.

I

Oil

abandoned

all

I little

idea of contesting the influences of the

fever further.

was ready without further care

I

submit to the inevitable bruki's astonishment

but I would eat, and

;

was very great when

M. Braconnier, being

for soup.

vant,

recommended

assist

Mabruki

jjotacjey

called

by

Ma-

him

I asked

my

to

little ser-

and was good enough

to

In an hour or so

in its preparation.

the boys were called upon for some more, and an incipient

voracity was

Hours glided

noticeable.

by,

and the fever did not return, therefore more soup

M. Braconnier warned me

was demanded.

but Dualla and Mabruki did not heed

careful,

warning.

Unprincipled youths

my

various

tent

!

picked

luxuries

little

be his

they smuggled into

and the stomach was untiring in

where,

to

up someits

powers

of digestion.

On

the 30th of

that Dualla and

attendants.

May I am

so far

removed from danger

my

Mabruki were

and

sole visitors

Their energies as well as

my own

were

devoted to the renewal of strength in the worn-out and But, alas

feeble frame.

weakened by cuperate

;

illness, it

although the Ijody

!

requires

is

soon

a long time to

and, although the period

is

relieved

frequent pleasures of eating and digestion,

it

re-

by the is

still

tedious.

On I

this day,

however,

I

was

so far recovered that

caused mvself to be carried round on a

visit

to

/

REINFOBCEMENTS AERIVE.

mv

camp below, which

people in the

277

I believed to be

issi.

June

productive of great benefit to me.

By

the 2nd of June I was strong enough to be able

warmly

On

in a

heavy

the morning of the 4th I was gladdened at the

coming up the river from Isan-

whither I was told

At

previously. it,

tent, clad

ulster.

sight of the whale-boat gila,

my

under the awning of

to sit in a chair

it

had departed twenty days

the landing-place

little

Mabruki met

and presently came hurrying back with the glorious

news that a large body of Zanzibar

had come from

recruits

and that a small body of picked men, headed

;

by a young German named Lindner, was already and would probably arrive

at hand,

close

Manyanga

at

in a

day or two.

A

of joy at the good

thrill

news

filled

been saved had this relief arrived earlier did

now

it

every breast,

Oh, what labour, what anxiety had

especially mine.

seem possible

to

joerform

!

Now

indeed

Only

something.

did a final success appear in a clear light.

For.

although not even to myself would I permit a doubt of an I

ultimate

happy

issue

to the

had undertaken, the event seemed

tant that at times

it

immense labour to

be so far dis-

was almost beyond the

hojoe of

realisation.

I

100

was lbs.

!

at

this

time an

My lower

atom

—scarcely

weighing

limbs were mere sticks supporting

a feeble, weak body, to which the few paces from the

bed

to the chair

mails on

my

appeared an immense labour.

lap, six

months

old,

4.

Maayanga.

contained

Yet the

new

tasks

THE COS (JO.

278 1881.

Manvan^a.

that

would require an aniiy

to accomplish

!

"With a sick

mau's querulousuess I pushed them aside, and dared not

them

look at

should become mad.

lest I

The next day Mr. Lindner appeared with twenty-four men, some of

whom were

at A'ivi there fellows.

were ancient comrades of mine, and

They were

forty-six more, stout, well-chosen

heartily

was quickly enlivened by the

welcome

On

and the camp

who had abunpeople who had been

recruits,

dance of news to impart to the so long absent

;

from Zanzibar.

the 11th of June Mr. Lindner departed for Isan-

gila with the

En

Avanf, Royal, and two steel boats, to

convey the remainder of the

relief expedition at

once

to the front.

Meantime, strength returning to me, on the 12th I

began there

to prepare for

was a host of

my journey

duties to perform preliminary to

forward movement.

for the

new

was

First a contract

with the chiefs of Manyanga, a

upon

But

to Stanley Pool.

station,

site

was

to be

any

made

to be decided

new tents were to be made,

as

our old ones had already endured through four rainy seasons, a road

had

yanga Cataract

to

convey the boats

While the steamers

round the Man-

to be constructed to

be floated above.

Avere absent bringing

up the

relief

we might employ ourselves in assisting to build new station, for nothing had been performed while

partv,

the I

was prostrated by

illness.

Ample time had been given yanga

my

to

to the chiefs of ^lan-

ponder upon the proposals

arrival, so that

it

I

had made on

needed but a signal to inform

ROAB MAKIXG.

279

of a

was entered

site,

to build

by which

hill-slope

upon and

my

entire district of

ground

little

cultivate to

and terrace content.

heart's

Manyanga, however,

available for cultivation in the

is

nei2:hbourhood of the river.

M. Braconnier was the

hill,

whereon

lone tent^ which

I

M.

detailed for road-making.

Harou was commissioned

commence

to

had spent

commanded

buildino-

many days

so

on

in the

the terrace and landing-

place below.

wagon

After twenty-two days' work the feet

wide and

six miles in length,

road, fifteen

was completed

to a

landing-place above the cataract, and the pioneer force

was directed

to assist in the construction of the station.

The labour of levelling the ground was very it

was

finally rendered habitable

great,

and presentable.

but

The

timber was procured from a wooded gorge at the bottom of which a streamlet flowed

more than two to the

;

the distance to

miles, but the toil of

sraithing

upon

was not

conveying the logs

and black-

repairs,

was one of the handicrafts that

I

was

called

to perform.

Then the new tents had was converted

we waited was

it

ground was exceedingly arduous.

The boiler-wagon needed many

to

be cut by myself, and Albert

into a sailmaker.

11.

satisfactory Manyanga

I obtained the choice

and a large acreage of

Throughout the but

into

issi.

June

A

did not, therefore, occupy verv long. contract

These

to close the arrangements.

them of rav readiness

During the

for the long-delayed boats, a strong

interval

magazine

erected, with corrugated iron walls, pierced here

THE CONGO.

280 1881.

.Aianyanga.

and there with port-holes defence being required.

much

fear of hostility

for musketry, in case of

any

For although there was not from

tlie

natives, less anxiety

would naturally be experienced through a greater sense of security that, unless affairs were very

mismanaged,

much harm.

hostility

would be powerless

to

much effect

TURBULENT MARKETING.

281

CHAPTER XY. A RECONXAISSANCE TO STANLEY POOL.

—Turl)ulent marketing— Death of — On the march to Stanley Pool — Eeception by natives— A boy drowned— Bwabwa Njali, a dissembling chief— Native pomp — Malameen appears, bearing the French tricolour — A treaty regarding territory — The Gordon Bennett — Mfwa — Malima — Gamankono, an old acquaintance — Instance of retentive memory —" We are kings " — Arrival of Malameen, whose fables alarm the villagers — Friendship supplanted by hate —Forced retirement from Malima — Evil news precedes us — Stopped by an armed crowd — " Tanley, Tanley " — A timely

An

outrage upon custom, and

M.

Neve— Letter

its result

respecting the support of 3Ianyanga

all

!

arrival.

On

tlie

June a curious incident occurred

25tli of

at

i88L June 1'k

the market of

A

Manyanga which was

man bought

tempted

goat, and, contrary to custom, at-

a

to resell

held every week,

it

the ^ame day in the same market,

which was considered such an outrage upon custom that the public indignation

was aroused,

the goat and a couple of pigs. to pieces

to be vented

upon

These animals were cut

and distributed round the market-place, and

not until a general smash-ui^ of gourds of palm-wine Ijfid

taken

place

was

tlie

public

anger

sufliciently

allayed.

Every other day a market

is

held in the neighbour-

^yianyanga

THE CONGO.

282. issi.

hood of the

on various

station,

June 25.

Manyanga.

great

ManyangR market

from the it is

i

i

f«

-i

held inland about five miles

was once very well attended, but

It

station.

is

but the

hill-sumraits, •

•

not so now, several outbreaks having occurred of

numerous.

late years to render the attendance at it less

Slaves, ivory, rubber,

oil,

and goats and

pigs, sheep,

fowls were plentifully brought for sale

by the vast con-

course of buyers and sellers that had gathered from the

many

country for

Caravans from the coast bound

also largely for sale. for Stanley

cloths

Native copper was

miles around.

Pool found here a ready exchange for their

and beads, and purchased copper and wire in

enormous quantities to

suit the tastes of the up-river

and vegetables were

people, while tons of cassava bread

quickly disposed trict tribe

quent,

and

the

dispersion,

of.

But prosperity rendered the

dis-

Ruptures became

fre-

chiefs insolent.

pretext

slightest

and immediate

to save themselves

two months that witnesses of

I

serving often to cause

flight of the

Even

from violence.

durins: the

remained there our own people were

many an

outrageous scene

being involved in fracases, had to

with impunity.

market people

It

may

fly

;

and, to escape

away, not always

be that some of them were

not guiltless of offence, but, as no accusers ever appeared against them, I could only deliver a stern warning and bid

them beware of the consequences

were

brought

against

them

for

if

any charges

violence

and mis-

conduct.

At last, after an extraordinary delay, dinging whicli we had been victims to fear and anxiety as to what bad

DEATH OF

PAUL NEVE.

283

the boats, the steel whale-boat

befallen sight,

J/.

after landed a letter

and shortly

appeared in

from Mr. Lind-

issi. Julv.

Manyanga

which contained the distressing intelligence that M. Paul Neve, engineer of the En Avant, had succumbed to a severe attack of bilious fever at Isangila on the

ner,

26th of June. illness

This was the second fatal termination to

amongst the pioneer expedition during a term of months of unexampled labour and privations.

sixteen

Like the case of the

had

sailor

Martinson in 1880,

also occurred during the cold season of

and July.

^ly

own

serious illness in

this

death

May, June,

1880 had also

occurred in June, and at the commencement of this year's cold season I

much more

had again been prostrated by a

severe attack.

The only

amongst

fatal case

the Zanzibaris occurred during last year's cold season.

On

the 14th of July the steamers and the other steel

conveying the long expected

lighter appeared,

party, including Mr. Louis Yalcke

a clerk

and two Germans,

The news from Yivi was

and an engineer.

very satisfactory, and, in accordance with tions,

a

was being

station

Isangila under Lieutenant

Belgian

relief

successfully

my

instruc-

founded at

Eugene Janssen,

a young-

officer just arrived.

The following quotations from

a letter to the Comite

about this time will serve to furnish specific information regarding the support of j\Ianyanga during

absence up river "

Yon

by the enclosed list of gootls and articles witli wliicli Manyanga has been ])rovide(l,tliat there is an abnndauce of

will oltserve

the station of

my

:

every article such a station should require.

THE COXGO.

284 1881.

^^

"

Par

exeinple,

I have

left

the following quantity of cloth for the i-ui-

chase of proTisions for the garrison of the station

Manjanga.

" Ordinary striped domestics

:

CONDITION OF THE ENPEDITION.

285

engaged in the transport of the goods, our foreign coloured employes will

haul—

"Waggon

"

Xo.

conveying

1,

En

Manyanga.

Acant.

„

No.

2,

„

boiler.

,,

No.

3,

„

engine and plates.

„

No.

4,

„

whale-boat.

Our goods for Stanley Pool Station will consist of 560 man-loads, con-

sisting of

" Cloths.

Linseed-oil.

Forge.

Pickaxes.

Beads.

Blacksmiths'

Wire.

Anvil,

Shovels.

Tinned provisions.

Grindstone.

Axes.

tools.

Salt.

Nails.

Hammers.

Sugar.

Screws.

Crowbars.

Tea. Coffee.

Ammunition. Gunpowder.

Jack-screws.

Eice.

Medicine-chests.

Tackles and blocks.

Beans.

Sail-cloth.

Machettes.

Flour.

Cordage.

Hoes.

Muskets.

Paints.

Engine-oil.

Tallow.

The personal baggage

Adzes.

of Messrs. Yalcke, Braconnier, Lindner, Hertwig,

Christopherson, Mahoney, which

amount

to thirty-five

man-loads, or

nearly a ton. "

By these

stand the

detailed items

difficulties

Europeans compared

you

will perhaps better appreciate

and under-

many

attending an exi^edition which numbers so to the very small

number

of coloured men.

In-

cluding myself, there are eight Europeans to only 103 foreign coloured

men, and

tliirty

West Coast

natives

;

whereas, to perform creditable work,

there should be at least fifty coloured men to each European. " There are at present on the expedition 138 coloured foreign employes,

who

will be disposed as follows

IB as garrison of third station

:

— 97 to

accomiwny advance expedition

—Manyanga;

8 garrison of Isangila; 15 as

as lioats' crews. "

The

Jtoyul

and

stcul lighter, witli their crews, will

munication between Isangila and ]\Ianyanga. district will

and

Isangila.

" After arrival at the Pool,

communication

relieved force of pioneers between

En Anint and Stanley Pool L'ltper

maintain the com-

natives of the Yivi

be cmi)loyed,as often as they can be induced, for the transport

service between Vivi

>

The

aui.l

Congo."

a

fifth station,

will be

maintained by the

Manyanga and Stanley

lighter will serve to

keep

iip

1881. July,

Pool.

The

correspondence between

established at some eligible

s])ot

on the

THE CONGO.

286

The next morning

1881. July 15.

iMauyanga.

after the arrival of the Loats, the

forward movemeiit commenced at daylight, 210 natives assisting;

and by the evening of the 19th, goods and

wagons had been moved forward

and the

six miles,

boats launched in the cove above the Cataract.

Herr Lindner proved himself

after a short acquaint-

knowledge

ance, to possess sufficient practical

me

valuable service.

the

command

I felt confidence

to render

in entrusting

of a portion of the force to him, to trans-

port the effects and wagons by water to Mpakambendi,

from

twenty-two miles

distant

Manyanga, and

on

arrival at the landing-place of the village to

make a

wagon-road leading from the river

plateau

men

while I should lead a party of

to

the

to Stanley Pool,

and

secure a site for a station contiguous to the point where

the navigability of the

enough

I been fortunate

of two such

ment

Upper Congo commenced.

men

have secured the services

to

Herr Lindner

as

Had

at the

commence-

of the expedition, Stanley Pool would have been

reached in September, 1879

;

further necessity for delaying

but

now

my

visit to

there was no

my

friends

German had proved himself fully the task I now committed to him.

in that region, as the

capable to carry out

Accordingly I

set out

with Messrs. Valcke and Bra-

connier, also another person clerk of the station, should site,

and

place.

sufficient

who was to be employed as we be enabled to secure a

goods to temporarily provision the

After a march of nine miles, over a high land

crossed by gullies and deep stony waterways, at

Mungala

in a lovely basin

we

camjoed

nestling cosil}^ in the

FRIENDLY BECEPTION.

287

Durino: the march

inidst of tall trees.

we had

passed

issi.

Julv20.

of

four streams,

which Mbika, a copious clear-water

was the most important.

stream,

The next day we traversed a

still

rougher country,

by

across a series of lofty ridges, separated

many

as

streams which flowed through cool forested gorges, and arrived at Mpakambendi, where I

my

Mr. Lindner on

expected to find

return from Stanley Pool.

Continuing our march on the third day, the country

was discovered tion, as

much more

to be

we examined

The land

and

rose

adaptability for a

its

gentle

in

fell

waves separated by wide

regular in

its

forma-

wagon

road.

broadly-spreading

valleys, at the

bottom of which

The

small streams of clear water smoothly flowed.

mean

altitude,

1500

feet

2100

feet,

proved that we were at

Our reception along the

above the Congo.

route was most kindly

least

— my

name, which the natives

had tenaciously remembered, was shouted out with such clearness sometimes, that I half suspected

some of

my

own people were calling me. At Zinga, the scene of so many toils in 1877, the excitement was xery great. Until

deep darkness

tent

was besieged by the

who had heard from

prying youngsters
my

white

man with

had passed down their wild

the

their parents,

many

canoes

who

river.

From Zinga we marched across the stream of the Edwin Arnold, past palmy Mowa, and over a healthy country, whose pure breezes brought back the feeling of health to

my

frame.

Near the

village of Nzabi,

whose chief resembles a prominent English statesman,

jumgaia,

THE cox GO.

288 1881.

there were crowds avIio entreated us to stay and trade,

July 23 Xzab'i

*^ ^-'^y palm-wine,

and barter cloth

lor fowls

could not stay lor either, for the spirit of

we encamped amid

a

whole

tribe

we

movement

Xear the wooded banks of the

was on us now. River

but

;

Inkissi

of curious

visitors.

On

the 24th,

we

travelled over a very

rough country

Msampala, which promised to give us great trouble

to

when we should appear with our heavy wagons. The

Ngoma were

people of

very amiable.

AVe exchanged

presents with nearly all those in authority along the route

—perhaps because liness.

very

It

was policy

many

because I met so their former

it

to

do

so^

old acquaintances

and perhaps

who renewed

knowledge of me with unrestrained friend-

was a marvellously rich country, but we saw

little

Food was abundant, and the

cultivation.

natives were eager to trade.

Between Msampala and the Mukoss River, where we

camped on the

presenting but few

difficulties to a

Lubamba Lubamba is called

River,

at

the

tlie

wagon

which

Xkenke'

road, except

half-way.

is

at

country"

its

The

confluence with

a rapid stream about forty yards wide,

the Congo,

It is

and there

canoe ferriage across

is

was over a

25th, the journey

of the numerous caravan

traffic.

it

for the convenience

At

the ferry there

is

sometimes quite a gathering of bands of ivory carriers

from Stanley Pool, and commodity porters from

the coast.

There were quite a number of people on

either bank,

who awaited

we

In the confusion and disorder

arrived.

their turn of ferriage

when

—squabbling

A BOY BEOWXED. for first places

— a boy of

289

fourteen or fifteen years old,

issi.

July 25

fell

overboard into the stream, and was drowned.

friends desired to obtain the

body

His

for burial, but

none

know how to set about recovering it. one of our men dived into the stream with a

appeared to Finally

cord round his body, and brought the dead boy to the

CARAVAN CROUP.

The body was received with a solemn

surface. Init

silence

;

there were no thanks returned.

On

the 2Gth

we

left

the village of ^lukoss on the

Mukoss River, and after a march of eleven miles reached Kinduta. VOL.

I.

A

rainfall occurred

in the morning,

U

which

jjuko'ss.

TEE COXGO.

290 1881. July 26.

Mukoss.

unexpected at

this season in other parts of the country,

^

may

be attributed to the extensive woods found in this

district.

It is a

wonderfully

fertile

we saw;

country that

every mile we marched growing in picturesquenessand

Grand sweeps

worth.

of land, bountifully watered

by

clear streams, well wooded, and giving valuable promise

met the eager view from every ridge

to future comers,

and

About three hours beyond the

uplift of surface.

Mukoss River we came

to a

square-browed

from

hill,

whose high open summit we saw Stanley Pool

far

away

in the hazy distance, like a blurred mirror obscured

gauze

wood

a gauze-covered frame of dark

set in

by

thus the hazy density caused by heat and distance represented

A long

it

to us.

march

of fourteen miles, over a plain,

soft flat

spongy boggy country, brought

27th, to

Bwabwa

Njali,

a chief

who

and

on the

us,

derives import-

ance and revenue through his ferry over the Grordon Bennett, which flows close by, east of his village. Most

book.

we have met have been kindly commonmen, but Bwabwa Njali is a character worth a He is an actor that is, he is a man who affects

to be

what he

come

as often as they

of the chiefs

place

—

is

not.

Polite to his guests

—

may — from the moment

let

them

he makes

anybody's acquaintance, a systematic approach to their affections is tion.

He

commenced with the view

presents himself to

you

to their spolia-

as one

vain as a woman, and as frivolous as a child trives

before

you have

finally parted

impress you with the fact that he

is

who ;

is

as

but con-

from him to

an unprincipled

BWABWA NJALL "

roffue.

It is

what

that?

IS

My

brother,

Ah,

truly,

what

my

my brother

the country

Dear, good brother

!

My own

rut

brother!

Really now, has

of brothers

My

is this ?

good brother. ?

291 brother,

away,

it

come

true brother

And

" !

thus he

purrs continually around one, his eyes wandering about to every part of

And

your person and belongings.

such state as he surrounds himself with on a

stransrer's

arrival

A

!

lion-skin

—a

spread out, a fat crimson bolster

is

real lion-skin

—

is

in place of a chair

of state, and a circle of respectful principals are seated

around.

While you are seated expectant of

pearance,

Bwabwa

Njali

is

his ap-

touching himself up before

a score of looking-glasses hanging around the walls of his house, straightening a hair here, giving

another

dab of ochre on his cheeks and forehead, a streak of yellow under an eye, a line of white under the other, ridge

the

of

his

nose

coloured

powdered charcoal, a loving tap on smooth of a crease in

darker

still

his red blanket,

and

with

chignon, a

his

lo

!

Bwabwa

Njali emerges into view. I

have often wondered, on viewing these

efforts

of

African chiefs to ape the majestic strutting of kingliness,

from what grand prototype they have drawn their

demeanour. is

of,

Mtesa, of Uganda,

is

too far

off,

and there

no one nearer that I have ever discovered or heard able by the

rumour of

his

pomp

to impress the sense

of these fantastic mimics of kinghood.

must be natural

to

man

to the British beadle

—

to the x\frican

I

presume

Nfumu

!

u 2

Bwabwa Njali

to see

Yerily, a brother

!

1881.

as

it

it is

TKE CONGO.

292

There were some orood

1881.

Bwabwa naturallj ^^

''

He was of

all

about him

points

which

belong to persons of his enormous vanity.

cleanly in person, and so

African chiefs

much cannot

he was not at

;

all

uncomely, or

ill-

man

of

favoured, being a bronze-coloured, well-built If

thirty-five.

gave nobly

;

be said

he expected largely in return, he

at least his gifts

dwarfed

had received between Yivi and

all

first

others that I

Probably

his village.

there are other good points about him,* as yet buried in his half-revealed personality.

We

had scarcely been three hours

village before

we

coloured

approaching,

flag

at

Bwabwa

Njali's

saw, borne high up, a French

preceded by a

tri-

dashing

looking Europeanised negro (as I supposed him to be,

though he had

superior type of face),

a

in

sailor

costume, with the stripes of a non-commissioned officer

This was

on his arm. sergeant

left

whom

navy

shirt

carried the flag.

frank and manly. either side, he

called

well,

and

his greeting

was

After a few words had been said on

showed

to

me a

paper, which, duly trans-

turned out to be a treaty, whereby a certain chief

Makoko ceded

to France a territory extending

from the Gordon Bennet River

bank

negro

and pants, followed him, one

Malameen spoke French

lated,

Senegalese

Two Gaboon

by M. de Brazza.

sailors, in blue

of

Malameen, the

to Imjjila

of Stanley Pool, and which

fied, to

all

whom

it

M. de Brazza

might concern, that

possession of the said territory in the *

on the north

In the latter part of 1B81

Bwabwa

name

noti-

he took

of France.

Njali died.

MALAMEEN. Malameen kuew a great

Makoko had been

293

deal about the transaction,

generous, and for very triQing gifts Bwabwa

had parted with a territory which, as far as I could extended along the river about nine miles

learn,

extent of

it

inland,

was not

no other instructions than

He

indicated.

;

the

said he

had

show the treaty

to

to all

Europeans who might approach Stanley Pool.

As

was

it

late,

my

some of

he slept in the village, and through

servants I became well informed in the

politics of the district

on the other

side of the

Gordon

Bennett.

A very short acquaintance to

me

that he

these Africans,

and very

liimself,

w^ith the sergeant

proved

was a superior man, even though he was

He was

in his proper element

who were

of a lower grade than

a bronzed Senegalese.

among

tactfully

and subtly he acted on

his

master's instructions.

The next day he returned

own

territory

on

the east side of the Gordon Bennett, and at 1 p.m.

we

to his

prepared to follow him, according to an invitation he

had given us

in his master's

The Gordon Bennett About

four miles lower

cataract

by two mouths

yards below the

Had

is

name.

a deep rapid stream of about

yards in breadth at the ferry of

forty

the

first

mouth of

liave

tlie

Bwabwa

been worth

down

it

Bwabwa

Njali.

descends a furious

into the Congo, about fifty

dangerous rapid of the Congo.

great river a couple of

wnidd

issi.

Gordon Bennett joined the hundred yards higher up it

my

while to have secured from

Njali the right to a landing-place

by which

Njali.

THE CONGO.

294 1881.

might have gained access to nearly 1100 miles of

I

July 28. iifwa.

.

.

navigation of the Upper Congo.

A

journey

countrj^,

of six

miles

through an

alternately scrubby jungle

brought us to the

villao:e of

uninhabited

and grassy

plain,

Mfwa, a small hamlet of

ITOKY CABBIEUS.

grass huts peopled by Bateke' ivory traders. of

them were, even

at

the

engaged in counting brass rods a

pound

at that time

fine ivory tusk

A number

moment

of our arrival,

—

which weighed

five of

— and sorting cloths, while many a

gleamed white on the ground near by.

MALIMA.

295

and sellers were seated around disGrroups " r of buvers The cussing the merits of their respective properties. ^

buyers were Bateke,

who

^

a large extent of

inhabit

country on the north bank and far inland

;

the sellers

were By-yanzi and Ba-bangi, from the

of the ivory

Upper Congo.

The

chief,

Ingya, received us good-naturedly, showed

camp near the

us a place to

river,

and promised to

The

bring us meat and palm-wine (raalafu).

evening-

passed off quietly, I might say agreeably, since decided civility

and sociableness marked the intercourse.

In the morning, however, the natives hinted to us that there

was no food

to be procured

;

and indeed

it

was evident that they themselves were dependent on other districts for their

they did not

because

population, old

daily

supply of provisions,

The

cultivate.

male

entire

and young, of Mfwa could not have

exceeded 150.

Makabi, an important ivory factor resident at Mfwa,

who had shown

us courtesy on the previous day,

more candid.

He

for us to try

Malima

larger

much with

was better

distinctly stated that it

—whose

village higher

chief

up the

was

was Gamankono

river,

where the

—

chief,

superior to Ingya, might be better able to talk us.

Within two hours we arrived at Malima, a wide detour having been forced upon us by the black

and swamps which are a feature of the grass north bank. scattered huts.

^lalima consisted of about

flats

fifty

mud

on the

widely

Here, however, was a large concourse

issi. July 28. iifwa.

THE CONGO.

296 1881.

of By-yanzi visitors for the sale of their ivory -^

July 29.

Maiima.

;

there

-^

^veio probaLlj about

•

11

1

400 of them, mostly tall, strapping,

whom

broad-chested, rather yellowish fellows, to

the

They made an

Bateke appeared black as ink in colour.

unusual display of short swords of curious design and beautiful

We

workmanship.

were

first

few boxes ranged around,

where, on a ourselves,

escorted to the shade of a large tree,

wondering

we

seated

at the large circle of people

had gathered in such an insignificant

who

village.

Presently Gramankono appeared, who, after a close

view of

his features, I recognised to be the

mentioned in the book

But he was

'

Through the Dark

so splendid in his dress

ments that his aspect was very

and

different

Mankoneh Continent.' state orna-

from that of

the stalwart chief of fishermen he appeared to be four years previously.

I

immediately rose to shake hands

The recognition was mutual, aud

with him.

had responded with a hearty tric dance,

clasp,

after

he

he began an eccen-

some 400 natives accompanying

it

with a

barbarous chant, which so excited our following that our

men

also

added their voices

to

the unmelodious

singing.

Meantime a rug which had the picture of a horse on it

had been spread out

to us,

at a respectful distance opposite

and a large crimson

bolster

at one end, then a leopard-skin

rug.

had been placed on

it

was spread over the

AiiQV the burst of excitement,

Gamonkono

seated

himself on the bolster, his feet resting on the leopard's spoil.

A EETENTIVE MEMOBT. While seated in

larger than the

of a burly negro tial

may

;

On

his

In figure he

be taken.

medium

size, his features

he has a plain,

solid

by a

a

are those

and substan-

head he wears a thick round cap of

worked colours His neck

of red, yellow, blue and white woollen twist. encircled

is

collar of many-coiled fine brass wire,

out of which project four long spikes of wood, as I suppose, until at a later time I find they are elephanttail

bound

hairs

His robe

is

a

perhaps, two dozen.

in bundles of,

tartan

check of large red and green

while his under-cloth

squares,

a bright-patterned

is

print.

Now

introduction are over, and there

my

Through see

The ceremonies

ensues the period to speak. is

Gamankono and hear from

Malameen had

told

the country were

his

own

had come

lips

his

own, then what

I

to

whether, as

me, he had sold his country.

still

of

an expectant hush.

interpreter I intimate that I

had

If

to say

could be said another day just as well.

Following the custom which prevails among the people on the Congo,

Gamankono began

events from the date of

recital of

P(^ol in 1877.

my

a minute

arrival at Stanley

Nothing was omitted, which shows how

very retentive the memories of these aborigines are.

He

could repeat almost every

word

I

had uttered with

him, and remembered what presents were exchanged

between

us.

issi.

July 29.

and broad-shouldered

knit wool, into which a native artist has

is

in this .

face, befitting a substantial

person.

and

of native state this pride ^

pose his photograph little

297

,

Maiima.

TEE CONGO.

298 1881.

Then," said he, " a long time elapsed, and another

'•

July 29.

Maiima,

white

man came

He stayed with many days. He had a few

with three canoes.

Nchuvila of Kinshassa for

men from Makoko with him he sent word to all living at Mfwa and Maiima to come and see him.

of us

:

went and talked with him, but

Makoko

not

is

heard nothing of

away a country."

selling or giving

"But

I

We

the

great king of

all

this

country ?" I asked. " There

kings

kinor anywhere. no jrreat "We are all c each a king over his own village and land.

—

Makoko is

is

chief of "

On

is

chief of

Mfwa

;

Mbe

am

I

;

Ganchu

is

is

Makoko

lands.

than any of us country

is

is

;

is

;

Inorva

chief.

Kimpoko

chief of

Each of us owns

an old chief; he

he has more

;

But no one

the great chief of Kinshassa.

has authority over another

own

Maiima

chief over his land.

the other side, Gambiele

Xchuvila

his

chief of

men and

is

richer

guns, but his

Mbe."

The meeting

shortly afterwards dispersed

;

we were

then shown to a camping-place, the Europeans and the goods suitably accommodated and stored, and gossip

and marketing commenced

freely

and unrestrainedly.

Towards night G-amankono and tent,

and here we began

his sons

to reveal to

came

to

my

one another our

mutual sentiments, from which we soon learned that there really existed no objection in any one's

give us a place for a settlement.

two sons were

mind

G-amankono and

to

his

perfectly willing, after the excitement

consequent upon our andval had subsided, to enter into

HATE SUPPLANTS FBIENDSEIP.

299

an agreement cedino; to us permission to reside, build, plant,

we

this

parted for the night.

dusk, however,

He had

.

On

and sow in the territory of Malima.

understanding

At

.

.

,

Malameen entered the

crossed from Kinshassa on the south

^Ifwa, and, learning that

we were

village.

bank

to

Malima, he had

at

waited until near the evening before he put in an

What

appearance.

Malameen uttered about our

fables

fondness for meat of tender children will never be jDublished perhaps

;

but the

was known when the night,

effect of

what he

told

tom-tom

crier beat his

them

in the

and shouted out along the river bank and amid

the huts of the scattered village that

Gramankono and

Xtaba of Malima had resolved that none of the people should speak with

By morning tated rupture.

of

my

people,

us, or sell

us anything any more.

was magnified

this notice

into a medi-

A woman was caught selling fish to and beaten by some of the

one

villagers, while

some bold fellows crowded around the tent with broad knives like butchers'

cleavers in their

hands.

The

good feelings of yesterday had become replaced by Three times

suspicion, if not hatred.

inducing this

Gamankono

to

come round

unlucky state of things.

to persuade

came back

Ntaba

to be

to apologise for

Each time he went away friendly,

and

to his village with feelings

advocates in

as often he

more and more

The By-yanzi were our favour, but Ntaba was

embittered against us. ful

I succeeded in

also

inexorable.

Finally,

perceiving that our presence would

enough

create

trouble,

I

power-

abandoned the

likely

effort

to

issi. Jiiiy 29.

Maiima.

THE CONGO.

300 1881.

influence

a

man who

liad

no will of

own, but

his

July 30. iiaiima.

yielded to another, and I gave orders to prepare for departure.

Gamankono came

out of his hut to wish us a farewell,

and the column proceeded on

its

camping below Mfwa,

tion of

return, with the inten-

open communication

to

with Ngaljema, chief of Ntamo on the south bank.

Two

runners had, however, preceded

exagge-

us, and,

rating the events wdiich had occurred at Malima, had detailed at

that

Mfwa

a rupture

them

accounts which led

would ensue.

to believe

Arriving at the path

leading to Mfwa, the column w^as halted by a band of

Coming up

the villagers armed with guns.

to this

crowd, I had to lecture them upon the absurdity they

were committing, and pointed out their weakness as

compared with our own, which seemed

to satisfy

Then

that to risk a fight with us would be unwise.

our

men were urged

on.

One

or

two young

with a rather hardened insolence, seemed a

and required

eager,

their cleavers. effects

to be

warned

sible to say

natives,

too

trifle

as they flourished

Others, again, snatched at various

which some of the men

them

carried,

and

what might have been the

it

is

little

impos-

result of this

rapidly-growing fever for mischief, had not the attention of all been directed at that

moment

to a

number

of natives running up to us, shouting out " Tanley,

Tanley

!

They were almost breathless when they came column was again that

Ngalyema

of

halted,

up.

The

and then we were informed

Ntamo, hearing that " Tanley,"

his

A TIMELY AEEIVAL. blood-brother,

bad arrived, wished

301

to see

him, and had

issi.

July 30.

sent these his well-arraed sons

ns to a camj^

by the

and nephews

river-side nearer

to conduct

Xtamo, where he

could come and have an interview with ns,

Xothing could have been happier than A^'e willingly

suggested.

this incident.

acceded to be guided to the camp they

AVe arrived in about an hour and a half at

the river-side at a place nearly halfway between

and the Grordon Bennett.

Mfwa

xtamo.

TEE CONGO.

302

CHAPTER

XYI.

NGALYEMA OF NTAMO.

—

—

—

Threat of Bwabwa NjaU Approaching starvation Eelief delayed Arrival of Kgalyema of Ntamo A blood brother Prosperity of a native chief A grasping fraternity Xgalyema demands my servant Dualla We meet a Eoman Catholic Mission Its repxilse by the

—

—

— — — — natives —More demands upon our stores — The cost of our negotiations —Eicher goods required—Arrival in the Zinga district.

1881.

"Whex we encamped on the

strip of beach-sand,

within

July 31.

Ntamo.

a few steps of the river's margin, we were not far

from feeling the pangs of starvation.

removed

Unprepared

for

this complete

estrangement on the part of the natives

on the upper

side of the

Bwabwa

Njali's village

rations.

More than

left

with no more than two days'

that

would have been most weighty

Consisting of bananas and heavy,

and cumbersome. duff-like

Gordon Bennett, we had

bread, the rations that might be procurable

were by no means easy

to transport.

Had

the country

supplied grain, six, or even eight and ten days' food

might have been

easily carried.

In the interim that

elapsed between our departure from

and our

arrival at this river

our rations, and

it

now

Bwabwa

Njali's

camp we had consumed

entirely

depended upon the

APPROACHING STARVATION. good-will of

303

Ngalyema how long we should have

to

issi.

July 31.

endure short commons.

When, however, had

Ntamo.

the 31st of July passed away, I

to kill our three goats

loaves

and distribute some small

among our own men,

for neither canoes

nor

messengers appeared from Ntamo. This great village, or rather town, on account of

its

magnitude, was distant four miles below us on the southern bank above a broad and spacious baylet, at

bank which ran sharply

the lower extremity of the

towards the north bank, and formed the narrows where the

first

cataract of the Livingstone series

With a poweiful binocular was

in full

view of

telescope the landing-place

AVe could note considerable

us.

activity of canoe traffic

was formed.

canoes departing and

tbere,

arriving throughout the day

but those ascending were

;

for up-river ports,

Mfwa, Malima, Kinshassa, and the

Kwa

none came near

river tribes

word of

;

to us with

consolation.

On Monday,

we Bwabwa

the 1st of August,

about thirty ration foragers to

usual cloth and beads to purchase food. in

therefore sent Njali with the

They returned

the afternoon with sufficient to last for one day.

The

chief

Bwabwa

Njali also

lieard of our rejection it

even a

by

came with them.

his neighbours.

He

a fine opportunity to act as a go-between.

our young

officers credited

He had thought

One

of

him with about ten fathoms

of red savelist, worth about

£2

in this locality, on the

strength of a promise that on the next day he would furnish food if

we

sent our

men

to

convey

it

to

camp.

TEE COXGO.

304 1S81.

August

1.

Mamo.

Late in the afternoon a canoe came from Xgalyema /-« 1 m under the charge of tall young G-anchu, one ol the />

chiefs nephews,

assurance that

1

who brought a message conveying an we were not forgotten, and with a

request for the

Newfoundland dog "Flora,"

sable

Flora was surrendered

belono-ing to one of our party. at once, poor thing

On but

we

the next day

we were much

despatched our foragers again,

surprised

when they returned several

hours later without a particle of food, and with the strange story that

Bwabwa

Xjali and his men, instead

of ferrying them across, had menaced them with muskets,

and intimated that

happen

The

day or two unless we

in a

latter,

a general massacre of us

of course,

was a

fiction

left

would

the country.

invented to intimi-

date us from asking for the woollen cloth that he had

obtained on credit on the previous day, very few natives

being incapable of dishonest practices

if

they have

opportunities of pilfering.

During the absence

of the food-hunters,

we heard

the drums of Ntamo, and followed with interested eyes the departure of two large canoes from the landingplace,

their

ascent

to

the

place

opposite,

Then we knew

final crossing

over towards

Ngalyema

Ntamo had condescended

visit us.

the

Itsi

hood.

of

As

to

their

that

come and

soon as he arrived 1 recognised him as

with whom, in 1877,

1

had made blood-brother-

During the four years that had elapsed he had

become a great man. native,

us.

and

Xgako, the old

chief,

had become old and superannuated.

a Mbari

Itsi,

grown

NGALYEMA. licLer

305

by ivory trade with the Bazombo and Bakongo,

and become powerful by investing slaves, guns,

Ngako.

his large profits in

and gunpowder, had gradually superseded

Success in

other ambitions.

had considerably developed

life

Itsi

aspired to become

known

as the

The Wambundu

greatest chief of the country.

—an

inland people, and the original owners of the land

were slowly

under

falling

recognition of his greater powers

and others

Bwabwa

like

lustre

now

on

this

;

and, wheresoever he

Njali had obtained their fan-

ceremonies of the most

tastic i^rototype,

and of tedious

by a timid

influence

his

leno-th

were

He was

assumption of kingly power.

about thirty-four years

old,

cruel

and

safely vent

Superstition had found in

humour.

docile pupil,

disposi-

other lawless barbarians, prone to be

and sanguinary whenever he might

his evil

form,

of well-built

proud in his bearing, covetous and grasping in tion, and, like all

kind

finical

beino; introduced to shed

and fetishism held him

him an apt

as one of

its

whose hands the destinies

of

most abject slaves. This was the

man

in

the Association Internationale

du Congo were

held,

and

upon whose graciousness depended our only hope of being able to

efi'ect

Had he

Congo.

a peaceful lodgment on the

but

known

that fact,

we should have

been obliged to pay a heavier penalty than ceivable to any reader of these pages.

and the succeeding one

will,

African chief in his true colours

I.

is

however, portray ])y

con-

This chapter this

a simple narration

of the events connected with him.

VOL.

Upper

X

issi.

xtamo.

THE COXGO.

306 1881.

"^Numo^

Ngalyema was accompanied by

chiefs

several

of

Ntamo; such as Makabi, :Mubi, old Ngako, and four Ngalyema was my brother, of course, but others. Makabi must have a brother one

;

old

Xgako

;

Mubi

presses hard on

Enjeli, son of Xgalyema, chooses

me

my

is

eager to possess

to secure

him one

servant Dualla, and

XiiAIAEilA, CHIEF OF KIXTAMO.

Ganchu pounces upon

little

Mabruki.

find that the desire for fraternity has

We

Indeed,

we soon

become universal.

are in such straits for food, and for some definite

landed settlement on the south bank, that yielding and as pliable as they could wish. chiefs

have brought

gifts of goats, pigs, a

we

are as

The native

few loaves of

MY SEBVANT

DEMANDED.

IS

307

bread, and gourds of that sociable beverage, palm- wine,

1881.

August

without which the sacred

of brotherhood would

ties

have been impossible, nor could the gods that favour such beautiful general stock

upon

of the

many

so

expedition was heavily drawn

many

to reciprocate these

gifts.

It

became

more than once regretted that

expensive, that I

The

be propitiated.

love

fraternal

I

so

had

Europeans, though such sordid thoughts were

but temporary.

My

brother being the supreme lord of Ntamo,* as

well as the deepest-voiced

among

the whole tribe,

and most arrogant rogue

demanded the two

first

then a large mirror, which was succeeded by a

asses,

S2:)lendid

gold-embroidered coat, jewellery, glass clasps, long brass chains, a figured table-cloth, fifteen other pieces of fine

and a japanned

cloth,

Finally, gratified

rendered to staff,

me

tin

box with a " Chubb "

by such

his sceptre,

banded profusely with

coils of brass wire, wdiich

shown

to all

Ngalyema

men

Ngalyema

liberality,

brass,

was

and decorated with

to be carried

by me, and

was the brother of

!

But before departing he had one request which

for once startled me.

He demanded

servant Dualla should accompany a

little

him

•

him

to

to

make

that

my

Ntamo. After

pause for reflection, Dualla was despatched with

alone.

]\Ifwa

sur-

which consisted of a long

as a sign that I

of Ntamio

lock.

As he was about going

aivay,

Ingya of

appeared with two canoes, and after hearing

NtariKj as called

\>y

the upper river natives

is

kuowii as Kiutamo to

the lower river tribes.

X

2

2.

xtamo.

THE COXGO.

308 \vliat

1881.

August

happy family of brothers we had

'd

4.

xtamo.

begged

On

r

1

to

become,

all

... !•! be admitted into the fraternal circle.

we were able to chief of Bwabwa

the 3rd and the 4th of August,

procure food from Gampa, a rival

who

Njali,

lived on

tlie

western side of the Gordon

Bennett.

On

the 5th I went out hunting near the river

Gordon

Bennett, and at Gampa's ferry met a Catholic priest, his neophytes

and thirty-two of had come

to take

from Landana, who

advantage of French annexations by

establishing a

Roman

territory.

suggested that the Pere should

I

where he then was,

Catholic Mission on the French

he might learn

until

camp

how

the

flag,

and

natives would regard his coming.

The Pere, however,

relied

his bugle, which, as he

knew

well

how

upon the French

had been a Papal Zouave, he

to sound.

He

proposed to charm the

native ears with bugle-bla-sts, and, as a wilful

have his way,

I desisted

man must

from offering advice.

But the next day the Pere

visited our

camp, which

had not been massacred.

He

proved

at least that he

tarried

two days longer, in the hope that the natives

might be persuaded mission, but finally to wait for a

On tomed

permit him to establish his

to

was obliged

more propitious

the 6th,

to return to the coast

period.

Ngalyema returned

stateliness,

to us

triumphantly indicating by Dualla's

presence that he was not treacherous. required a larger japanned tin box. for

some more nice

with his accus-

cloth

;

But he now

Then he begged

not cut pieces or fragments,

XEGOTIATIOXS WITH XGALYEMA. but entire pieces of twenty-four yards eacli

309 silk-cotton

;

velvets, red flannel, red cottons of superior quality.

possessed none of

but

tliese,

we

\\

e

substituted ten fathoms

of red savelist, and a dozen uncut pieces of handkerchiefs,

Promisino- to consult

of the total value of £10. chiefs

Ijrother at his

place,

on the proposal

and

return

to

all his

found a settlement

to

with the

word, he

final

departed.

Mala-

AVe waited until the morning of the 11th.

meen came

across

again

invitation from Xchuvila,

would permit us

chief

But

we were

as

to

Kinshassa with

from

and a promise that the old found a station with him.

Ngalyema

negotiating with

this

was

for

the

and the invitation was declined

impossible,

an

present.

At

11 A.M.

Xgalyema appeared, bringing

and three canoes.

five chiefs

After a lengthy palaver

it

was

declared that the natives were as yet undecided on the

men among

question of receiving any white the

Bazombo and Bakongo

had threatened

them, as

traders were jealous, and

men

event of white

that, as in the

settling in the vicinity of Stanley Pool,

they would

soon be able to undersell them, they would never return to purchase ivory.

However, the

ten of your black people,

and do you return to the south bank,

to

and come up

to consider

after all to

will

Give us

behave themselves,

your people and cross the river

the time you arrive near

had time

who

chiefs said, "

to us in that

Kintamo our people

whether

it

way.

By

will

have

would not be

have you live with us."

l>etter

issi.

>^-t,jj^^^,

310

As

1881.

August

decision

this

11-^,

Ntamo.

TEE CONGO.

.

was irrevocable on

part, I

tlieir

and detailed ten Zanzibaris under Susi

finally agreed,

(Livingstone's head man), with fifteen loads of goods

and

we should be

tools to halt at Ntarao, until

able to

by the south bank.

arrive there

In summing up the exact cost of the articles with

which we had purchased

Ntamo, the

total value

two

exclusive of the

from the chiefs of

this favour

was found

asses

amount

to

to

£210,

and the Newfoundland dog.

Besides the promise of a concession from the chiefs,

had received

1

:

ivory tusk, weight 15

lbs.

;

we

50 loaves

of bread. 2 pigs, 1 goat, G gourds of palm-wine, 6 cola nuts,

and the

chief's staff, as

would be kept

pledge that the agreement

inviolate.

As we were returning to the advancing expedition, we reflected upon the various experiences of native manners and customs gathered during our patient

Ngalyema and

course with

things

it

sufficient

became evident

inter-

his people,

and among other

to us, that

though we had

goods of the proper quality to purchase food

at the markets,

and

to

exchange

with the small

gifts

chiefs inland, or along the river in the cataract region,

yet

we were

but poorly provided

to

negotiate with such

superb creatures as these ivory-trading chiefs around

Stanley Pool.

My

native

servant,

who had accom-

panied Ngalyema to his village, had been commissioned to

employ

village

;

his

eyes

and wits while staying

and availing himself of

at

his opportunities,

had inspected Ngalyema's treasures.

the

he

In one hut be-

longing to this chief he had seen about 150 tusks

RICHER GOODS REQUIRED.

311

of ivoiy, mostly large tusks of from 50 to 90 lbs. each; in another

he had viewed

of blanket

clotli,

piles of

glass ware, crockery,

As

stacks of brass rods, &c.

pose that there it

I

far greater

stores of cloth

of

stuffs

Gordon Bennett.

the chiefs

all

His wealth in

ivory alone must have amounted to £1800. ting his entire wealth at

goods, exclusive of his

£8000 worth

armed

demands

the nature of his

concession

to sup-

were

the

to

have no reason

this report,

than the united properties of

Boma

gunpowder, and

was any exaggeration in

was clear that his

from

11

for

slaves,

Estima-

of marketable

and considering

even the promise of a

— which was eventually as likely to be broken

as to be kept

—

it

was

clear to us that to purchase his

to

be supplied

Ntamo we should have with goods much superior in quality

to

any that

had

best influence in our favour at

traders

I

as yet seen

The

on the Congo.

on the Lower Congo required only such cheap

goods as cotton with blanket

stripes, twills, domestics,

stuffs

access to seaports

;

and

prints,

but the Bazombo and Bakongo had

where superior goods were always

in stock for the purchase of ivory.

Agreeably with these considerations Lieut.

Yalcke on

tlie

13th of August to

Loanda, with cash and purchase

bills

silks, velvets, fine

earnestly

amounting

flannel

I

despatched St.

to

Paul de £500, to

and crimson

clotli,

impressing on him the necessity of being-

expeditious and active.

On

the

21st of

August we met Mr. Lindner,

Mpakambendi, who had

issi.

August 11, -n 1 silk, velvet, rugs, bales xtamo.

f»

just succeeded ni storing

at liis

TEE coy GO.

312

"

1881. AugTist 21.

Mpakam-

The steamers were below

goods on the plateau.

:n

^

the river at the landing-place.

bendi.

This gentleman waf^

and despatched

relieved

two days

bank

^lanyanga, to purchase and lease ground in

at

later,

that locality at some

to the south

eligible place, which, since the

sonth bank at Stanley Pool was to be our destination,

was most necessary

for us.

we had reached the plateau with all the wagons, and an advance camp had been formed near Thirty men were detailed under the Lukuluzi Eiver. Albert to make a bridge over tliis stream, and to B}- the 24th

continue road-making while the rest of the expedition

conveyed goods and liauled the wagons.

So rapid was our progress with the lent to us

by the

August we were Mpakambendi.

in

late

recruits,

Zinga

that

district,

fresh strength

by the 31st of

eleven miles from

.

London

Sampson Low, Marsttin Searle & ,

Rivin|to]i

ZINGA.

CHAPTER

313

XYIl.

SETTLEMENT AT STANLEY POOL. The

ouhi study of

mankind

is

man — " Killing

—

the road "

—

—A broken axle-

tree— Braconnier's accident -We encounter Susi " The news from Xgalyema is good and bad"— Ivory-traders' intrigues Ngalyema in

—

reality a powerless chief

mountain His reply

—Our

—-Makoko — A

" appetite for black babies "

six-foot

beard

— Overtures

to

—lyumbi

Makoko

— " But, my friend, remember we own the coi;ntry "—Mild —" Influential " men—Makoko gives me his sword Ngalyema comes to fight—^Our preparations for war— A ruse —Ngalyema comes to the camp —A dissembling welcome — Masked hostility —" What nice thing has my brother brought "— " Make up your mind that I go to or near Kintamo — A war fetish — The signal of the like you " —My force spring gong— " Strike— strike I armed madmen—A general stampede —Success of the ruse — " Ah, I was not afraid, was I " —Peace, brotherhood, and conviviality. but valorous

?

"

tell

it,

!

xip

?

I

NOW

at

publish the notes I wrote the 1st of September

Zinga

as that

—

a place

which

from which

I

will ever

be memorable to

me

viewed the sad end of Francis

Pocock in 1877. "

The only thing

region

is

the

left to

human

the traveller to study in this

aborigine.

His gun, which he

always faithfully carries with him, loaded with scraps of iron

and copper, has driven away every other

creature except such as are domesticated and subject to

liis

issi. Sejit. 1.

interests.

zinga.

THE CONGO.

314 1881. Sept. 1. zinga.

He

'•

...

not a bad fellow, provided the traveller

is

the happy fortune to impress

him with confidence

lias

that

he risks no personal interest or inconvenience in accept-

ing him as a himself,

but he or

and

somewhat of a

he

if

is

traveller

creates a fellow-feeling

provoked to cry out

Evil designs/ and

'

is

manner

this in a

easily

is

He

friend.

'

Mandaka

really serious,

mabi,'

and cannot

be persuaded to think otherwise, previous acts of friendship or kindness are soon forgotten, coolness follows,

and a drinking-bout

at a

market gathering

to increase the trouble, and, to use his

road

is

He

dead.'

is

aware that

to

'

will serve

own words, The '

kill

the road

'

is

to

incur punishment or retribution elsewhere, unless he

means

meted out to

him,

to others,

if

As he

from the caravan business.

to retire

he

is

in

danger of

its

he travels away from home.

has

being meted

The

bruit of

the rupture soon spreads over a wide area, and the

name sively

of the

offending district and village

published.

At

the same time

he

is is

exten-

such a

thoughtless being, especially on a drinking-spree, that, forgetful of this, he

vent to a raging

often gives

humour. "

To an expedition of some strength whose only

object

was

exploration, this rupture

road would matter

like ours, all

beyond the bad repute of

little

having successfully forced

which hopes

and closing of the

way through make every man

its

to

;

but to one useful, for

time to come, to himself and country and tribe,

would be lamentable,

emerge from a

if

conflict,

not

fatal.

a delay of

it

Howsoever we might

many months would

niLARIOUS NATIVES. ensue, besides vexatious parleying

315

and explanation, and

issi, S^pt. 1.

extravagant presents to every person of consequence. "

To-day the natives returned from

many gourds

proving that

market are

tlie

very hilarious, even in a worse state in

many

cases,

of palm-wine have been

They are very numerous round the camp but

emptied.

;

fortunately

we have surrounded

it

with brushwood, not

against attack, but to prevent a temptation to their arrogant moods,

and

to

they were

much tempted and

inebriety,

might lead them

it

it

during

prevent them from laying

hands on property not belonging

their

zinga.

to

to

them.

If

unreasonable in their

commit

acts

which they

would ever regret afterwards.

"There are

six

chiefs

in

Zinga

district,

Mvula,

Monanga, Nzabu, Makanga, Kiubi, and Nsaka.

In

aggregate these govern eighteen villages, aver-

the

aging

fifteen houses, or grass huts, each, say altogether

about 270 houses, spread over an area of about fifteen square miles. If district will

we

allow five souls to each house, Zinga

have a population of 2,350

souls, or

ninety

districts.

East

souls to the square mile. " Close to lie

Zinga are

Mowa and

Massassa

many ;

populous

west are

]\Ibelo,

Bukala, Suki,

Kilanga, and Kinzore. " I perceive,

by looking around from

my

camp, that

these several communities have settled near or under

the groves which crown the hill;

summit of almost every

that they are ancient for a country left to the hap-

hazard care of patriarchal chiefs ignorant of written laws.

THE CONGO.

316 1881. Sept.

1.

zinga.

"Monanf>-o ^ and Lis brother Mviila are very old meu, / probably near eigbty. Yangassa of Nzabi district is •

.

white-beaded

;

in the village of Mpakambendi there

men between sixty and eighty years of these aged men know of any other grove

three

mark

.

.

were

None

old.

as the land-

of his village, but that which rises high above his

him

grass-covered hamlet, and affords

friendly protec-

tion from the sun during his open-air meetings.

"The

oldest, tallest,

and most conspicuous

may

height, girth, and umbrageousness

was not by an accident

old.

It

one

feels

grew

it

assured by comparing the

grows with other

hills.

It

tree

for

be 200 years there

hill

;

of that

on which

it

was planted by the founder

of the community which

now

No

have marred the growth of the

disastrous event can

groves, though the

Had

grove had died

;

under

community must have

from small-pox, dysentery, squabbles.

flourishes

the

fetishism,

community

its

shade.

often suffered

and internecine

utterly perished, the

the fires during the

September and October recurring

month of August,

at each year penetrate

further and further in such cases until at last the wild

grass covers

all.

"Reflecting on these respect

is

a

certain

something

I

am are

upon

not ashamed to confess to feeling even

like reverence,

the huts

—not

for the hutted village,

mere mushrooms, scarcely one of

them being older than three years dividuals

amount of

inspired in one as he gazes reflectively

the scene.

for

things_,

who own

—not

for the in-

the houses, for few of

boast of having seen three generations,

them can

—but

for the

BBIDGE OVER THE IXKISSL community

collectively wliicli, despite

•Illevils belonging

sad domestic events, ranee,

many

and

and

promises,

still

flourished,

vicissitudes,

to crassest ignoits

own, clung

become possessed of

traditions,

can bear the influence of these

if it

novel events, of iron steamers, engines and strange objects rolling overland close to its villages

convulsion, to last for

On

many

We

snapped in two.

without

generations yet."

September 2nd, the axle-tree of the

boiler

wagon

took out the piece of English elm,

which had arrived from the honest English wagon-

maker only about a year ago. Externally

was perfectly

rotten.

looked a piece of fine wood well painted.

it

was four

It

It

one inch long, seven inches by

feet

five

inches thick, and only weighed twenty-three pounds

An

exact duplicate of this

made

in African guaiacum

weighed eighty-one pounds. Across the Inkissi River Albert built a strong bridge, over which the five-ton wagons rolled safely.

On

tlie

14th of September, being incapacitated with

a slight fever, I turned the

Braconnier, and, for the

the wagons.

command over

first

had

requested him to take them

I

slope of a hill to a

camp

at the river-side.

to Lieut.

cliarge of

down

the

Five minutes

taken the command, he was brought

after

he had

back,

supported between two

and deathly

time, he

pale, his

his shirt in tatters.

given, while the

men

;

he was limping,

body considerably bruised, and

Some confused command had been

wagon was on the

slope.

issi. Sept.

•

low morals, &c., has maintained

together,

317

This caused

a misunderstanding, in the midst of which the boiler

1.

^ino-a.

THE CONGO.

318 1881.

wagon

Sept. 14. Zincra.

gliding

down the hill, and one of the trailing ropes swiftly down caught the officer, and dragged

sliot

him over the rough road

at a frightful

wagon ran into a tree, smashing the boiler.

speed until the

the shafts, and

damaging

Fortunately, beyond a severe bruising and

a shock to the nerves, the officer suffered no harm.

THE NARBOWS NEAR MSAMPALA.

He

was, however, placed on the sick

a small ferry which

days

later,

On

we

list,

and

for several weeks.

the 18th of September our boats were to

at

established at Kinsende' a few

where he remained

Congo again,

left

in

the

avoid the terribly broken country east

of the Inkissi, and which continues to beyond Kinduta.

By

the river

we

ascended past Msampala's narrows,

IVOBY-TEADEES INTRIGUES. Avliere

Congo

tlie

319

only 400 yards wide, sometimes

is

by ropes helping the steamer through the rapids

we

Lnbamba with

arrived at the confluence of the

Congo

at the foot of the

imtil

Lady Alice Eapids.

the

Here the

expedition on the 11th of October crossed to the south

bank, to a small cove in Kinsende of which

is

the chief

Luemba.

Four days been made

district,

much

later a road, that cost

Ufuvu River,

to the

labour,

the steamer, the boiler

and engines had been mounted on

their

wagons, and were preparing

when two

were

fired

on the opposite

cular I recognised Susi

with the asses that

to depart,

side,

and

had

respective shots

and through the binosquad from Kintamo

his

we had given Ngalyema.

The

whale-boat in a short time transported the people across,

and

as Susi's tale

own words

was

interesting, I will give

" The news from Ngalyema

moon

ill

which you

away without traders from

What

village

is ;

left

troul)le,

in his

us at

is

good and bad.

That

Kintamo passed peacefully

but the next moon, some native

Zombo came, and asked

in the country. '

it

:

that

'

Leave tliem

to

you

?

us what

alone,' said

They

they therefore must be

man

my

wore the white man's people. the

'if that is

the case

no more.

It will ]je

wliite

man

comes.

country

no place

They

Very

left

is

in

friends.'

my

From

Ngalyema had

to settle with him, '

Ngalyema.

are staying

the people, however, they learn that invited a white

we wanted

and that we

well,' said

they

;

dead; we come

for trade' for us if the

Kintamo, and went

to

issi.

Ki^Lende

THE CONGO.

320 1881. October 15. Kinsendc.

the Wambundii, the real owners of the country

Ngaljema himself has no country.

for

AVhat he has been

saying to you about his being a big king, and is all

—

all that,

The Wambundu, not having seen any

boasting.

white man, were frightened, and came storming to

Ngalyema, asking,

'

Is

this the

we gave you ground

to live on

upon yourself

who

Yery

well

;

to say

we

way you behave,

and trade

come

shall

;

days there w^as no market, and the

great

men came

For several

^^eople

Then Ngalyema's

food.

to him,

?

your trade, your markets shall

shall kill

want of

you take

that

into the country

be closed, and you will die of hunger.'

suffer for

after

and

insisted that

we

began chiefs

to

and

should be

sent away, otherwise they would go, and live at Kinshassa.

"

Ngalyema

more, but

it

was

'

clear to us that he

We

before long.

one day,

stood alone against them, for a few days

had not long

You must go back

to wait.

to

goods and the asses with you.

would have

He

your father.

to yield

said to us

Take the

I send the asses because

much of this trouble has Then I said, Our father gave arisen because of them.' us fifteen loads here, and we are but eleven men how they have a great name, and

'

;

can to

we

me.

carry

all

Do you

stay here longer

on

of them

? '

He replied,

He

?

Go and

tell

your father not

nothing

to

if

you

come

and build with Bwabwa

put us into a canoe, and w^e travelled from

Kintamo here, having paid seven wicked

is

not see that the country will die

this side, but to return

Njali.'

'That

Bwabwa

Njali.

I

pieces of cloth to that

have ended."

OUR ''APPETITE FOR BLACK BABIES^ In the narrative of

apparent

the

despite

Susi,

321

gloominess of our prospects, I found one piece of con-

Ngalyema,

soling information.

awed by the unanimous

in

our absence, over-

hostile feeling of the ivory-

traders at Kintamo, had at last yielded to their wish to

sever

connection with the white men^ and

all

we might

no doubt be assured that he would become as active an opponent as he had been a friend.

But

it

tran-

spired that Susi, during a residence of a few weeks

had discovered that Ngalyeraa's

there,

of principal chieftainship

gance.

Ho was

a large

number of armed

munity.

w\as

a Mteke

ivory-trader,

men, and

Bakongo

it

who owned many similar

Wambundu. Kintamo,

;

Wambundu

or

did not appear to be

but they had never seen the white

was but natural

that the

traders from the coast

men have been

one of

slaves,

arro-

merely a village of a foreign com-

True, the

very friendly to us

assumption

was simply vanity and

chiefs in the territory of the

Ntamo, then,

fine

the bane of

from the West Coast of Africa

Bazombo and

—as these coast middleadvance of Europeans

all

—would excel

in artful

word-painting of our fiendish qualities, our insatiable appetite for l)lack babies, &c. wjis ordered

that day to the

On

the 4th

1

450

feet

wagons were hauled

Ufuvu River. of

November our camp was on

summit of lyumbi mountain, ami

Therefore the expedition

forward, and the

245') feet

above the Congo at

Since leaving the

Ufuvu

River,

its

VOL.

r.

above the

the sea,

base.

we had made

of road in advance of the wagons.

Then,

issi. Oct. 15.

.

sections

all

Y

united,

Ki„seiuie.

THE COXGO.

322 1881 Xov. 4. Iviimbi.

we advanced with into the

tliem, first across the plateau,

Mpalanga Gorge, and

then

across the pretty clear-

water stream of that name, over another stretch of grassy plateau and into another gorge, then across

another pretty stream, and so on in succession of gorges

and plateaus until we came

to the beautiful

Lulu

liiver,

THE CASCADES OF THE MPALAXGA.

rejoicing in pretty

little

falls

and cascades.

Lulu we crossed the Kiki stream, and

we

crossed the

After the

after the Kiki,

Loa River, whence we emerged

in full

view of lyumbi Mountain. Provisions were abundant, and the temper of the natives excellent. district

was

in fact

Our slow

jorcgress

through their

an excellent education

for

them.

lYUMBI MOUNTAIN.

323

They understood very well why the Bazombo had spread those absurd rumours about trading a

themselves,

little

prove to them that

Fond

us.

which

of

did not take long to

it

was mere jealousy that inspired

it

man

the traders' hostility to the entry of the white a region

traders

for generations

into

they had exploited for

the large profits obtainable in the ivory trade.

we had surmounted the summit of lyumbi Mountain we were thoroughly informed in the Lono: before

of the country.

politics

leaving the ferry of

Since

Kinsende we had heard of a Makoko who, by reason of his father,

seniority

and the rank and powers of

was regarded

disputes

as

among minor

and Kintamo.

Kintamo

side

the umpire and referee

chiefs

his

in all

between Kinsende Ferry

His immediate

district

lay

Next

of lyumbi Mountain.

on the

to

him

in

rank were Ngamberengi and Kimpalampala, and after these lages,

came a host of minor every other mile or

The people

Kintamo.

owning small

chiefs

so,

all

vil-

along the road to

of these villages w^erc called

Wambundu, sometimes Banfumu,

or Freemen, a very

ancient people, for in the very earliest accounts of this

region will be found mention of them.

Their territory

begins at the Inkissi River, and extends to Kintamo, a

length of 45 miles.

At

first

Makoko had

sent

word prohibiting the

sale

of food to the white people, lest the country might die.

We

bore

it

ungrudgingly, though

it

imposed on us the

necessity of halting every three days to permit our

people to go great distances to purchase provisions.

Y 2

issi.

lyumbL

THE COXGO.

324 1881.

lyumbi.

But t)y

as favourable reports

were daily carried forward

the country people, this prohibition

was withdrawn,

provisions flowed abundantly, and everybody became

sanguine of success.

From the broad summit of lyumbi Mountain we may have a wide-sweeping view over a panorama

LOOKING TOWARDS THE ST AN LI

of billows

an area of

and hollows covering

square miles.

Its

commanding

altitude will

2000 enable

generations of tourists in time to come to thoroughly

understand, by one round glance, the features of the region of the

Lower Congo. Towards the

north-east they will obtain the Pool,

sixteen

miles

character and

distant.

first

glimpse of Stanley

Dover

Cliffs

at

sunset

VIEW FHOJI lYUMBI MOUNTAIN. will

show

tlieir

325

white glistening walls, and every peak

at the entrance to the Upper Congo will be easily

tinguished

;

an

in

they are about thirty-five

air line,

To the southward we now

miles away.

clis-

our

can. see

red road conspicuously winding past palm clusters and

wooded hollows, and

hamlets, dipping into the green

up the lengthy

rising

visible,

while the twin peaks near

unmistakable landmarks. of the Congo,

all

If

we

is

is

distinctly

Nsangu Ferry

offer

look on the rio:ht bank

Mowa

the land from

a distance of seventy miles, its

Even Mowa

slopes.

clearly

to

Dover

mapped

Cliffs,

out,

with

numberless wrinkles and irregularities softened by

distance to

mere

south bank

The

trifles.

seen of similar length and irregularities

the Congo's gorge lost in the blue.

were

it

may

;

is

likewise

while between,

be easily followed until

The land

is

it

is

look upon, and

fair to

possible to be in possession of a tithe of the

ordinary necessaries of a civilised

communicate

Ireely

and

life,

and

safely with

to be able to

civilisation,

a

residence on the best parts of this breezy ridge, with

such a daily prospect, would by no means be considered a privation.

The

adv.'ince pioneer

guard prepared a road down

to

the village of Ngoma's, which lay at the end of a spur projecting westward, and planted the white store tents. .Vs they

were seen by us from lyumbi, they looked

mere snowballs, amid a general greenness of shrubs, palm groves, and bananas.

nays completed the transport of day's

work

cndcMl wIlli

[lie

like

trees,

Four caravan jour-

tlie

arrival of

gO(xls, tlie

and a hard

entire Ibrce in

1881.

i^-unibi.

THE CONGO.

326 1881.

Nov.

7.

Usansi.

Usansi, at a

camp not

a tliousaiid yards distant from

the village of the senior chief of the region, Makoko.

On by

all

the 7th of

November

the

the natives on the south

man, who was reported

bank

to

be the arbiter

of all questions relating to territory between

Kintompe

and Stanley Pool, appeared in our camp with an imposing following of neiglibouring chiefs, Bazombo and

A VIEW FKOM A CAMP.

Bakongo

ivory-traders.

authority to is

Not

command such an

that he had sufficient

attendance, but

man

a gregarious animal, and naturally of a curious, in-

quisitive mind. coast,

camp

and

its

A

caravan having arrived from the

members suddenly viewing

this tented

in the Usansi hollow, in the immediate neighbour-

hood of Makoko's

village,

and hearing that Makoko

MAKOKO. was going*

to visit the white

of " Breaker of Rocks," of

327

man who bore whom they had

the

heard

with the same

Xow,

it

would have been

was most curious

idea.

say which of us

difficult to

As Makoko had

to see the other.

been daily informed, during some months, of I,

on the other hand,

for

impressed with the fact that future of the

One

Congo

my

doings,

some weeks, had become

Makoko was

to decide the

State.

Makoko

look at

fre-

number

qiientlj, had, out of sheer curiosity, joined their

to others inspired

name

satisfied

going to be a stern opponent.

me

that he

Such a

little

was not

man,

five

foot nothino- hio-h, with such a o-uileless, innocent look

meagre

on

his thin

to

be purchased

amiability

!

if

face, could surely

was any merit

there

He came

allow his goodwill

forward

in cloth

and

annoimced

bravely,

himself as Makoko, lord of that region between Kin-

tompe and Stanley kindly smile.

An

Pool_,

and held out

his

hand with a

old man, probably sixty, with a tall

narrow forehead, temples deeply sunk, a pair of small eyes gleaming brightly out

of deep

cavities,

cheek-

bones very prominent, face thin, a curled beard on his cliin,

which proved, when

to

be six feet in length

it,

at a later period he unrolled !

His mat, covered with a leopard skin, had been prepared to receive him.

He

pointed his finger at the

leopard-skin before seating himself, and said, " There

the proof of

my

titles."

There were about 100 people present

and

all

is

at this meeting,

were now seated expecting words from me.

issi.

L'>aiisi^

THE COXGO.

328 I began, "

1881.

Nov.

7.

Usansi.

People

call

^

I^ old timcs

am

the

me Bula Matari

known

I \vas

to

(Rock-breaker).

Kintamo

Mundele seen by the natives of

fir.st

I

as Stanle3\

this

am the man who went down the great river with many canoes and many men years ago. I lost many men in that river, but I promised my friends country.

at

I

Kintamo that

I

would come back some day.

the white man's land, but, remembering

come back.

liave

I

have been

Mfwa have

people of

true.

I

to return to

them along the south

Mfwa

promise, I

The

already.

saw them again, and

my

people, and lead

Here

Ijauk to his village.

speak the truth.

staff as a sign that I

my

reached

forgotten me, but the people of

Kintamo have remained

Ngalyema asked me

to

I

I

am

is

his

going to

him, to live with him, and to build a town alongside of his village

you

boats

I will go

That say

is

;

and when that

see on the

is

wagons here

up the great river, and

my

if it is

story.

done, I will put the into the water,

and

see if I can build more.

Let Makoko speak to his friend and

good."

After a short pause, during which there was a good deal of whispering,

and low

voice,

Makoko

in a

which gradually became stronger as he

proceeded with his speech, said "

We

rocks,

:

have heard, day after day

Bula Matari.

very quiet manner

When we

for

many

heard that he was breaking-

and cutting wide roads through the

became a

little

anxious.

moons, of

What manner

of

forests,

man

is

we

this

?

we asked, who treats the country in this way. Does he mean to destroy it ? Then we suddenly heard of Bula

0VERTUDE8 TO JIAKOKO.

329

Matari at Kintamo, and the word was whispered around

issi.

Nov.

that

you had made a league with Ngalyema

country from

Ngalyema

Then we

us.

all

to take the

got angry, for

that he should do this thing

Is

?

who

is

he not a

runaway from the Bateke country who asked us for a Has he place to build a house that he might trade? not

grown

him

?

and great through our kindness

rich

Yet he pretends

from him.

any of us received

people, have

enough,

Little

own

to

to

the land for

all

himself now. " Well, your people had

For how could you do what you proposed

did that.

without hearing from us

man

We

leave Kintamo.

to

Then we

?

despises us, the real

said, If the

white

owners of the land, then he

is

a bad man, and there will be war. "

But now you are passing through our country

We

Kintamo.

have heard of you

we have

pleased with what

you break rocks and cut the country. friend,

That

remember

is

that

Ngalyema nor any

trees to pass

right.

We

are

now know

that

daily.

We

heard.

your boats over

It is all good.

we own

the country.

of the Bateke

to

who buy

But,

my

Neither ivory at

Kintamo, Kinshassa, and Kindolo, have any country on

this side of the river."

Then followed a murmuring approval

of this speech

from the assembly.

When

the applause had subsided,

as follows: I

"You have

my

response was

spoken well, Makoko.

passed through the country years ago, I

of native laws, customs, or rights.

You

Thougli

knew nothing

all

seemed very

7.

usansi.

THE CONGO.

330 1881.

Nov.

much

Until lately I could not

alike.

the difference-

tell

7.

Usansi.

at sight I

hetween one of the Bateke and an Mbundu..

thought you

for a white

man

black men, and

takes a long time

it

between one black

to tell the difference

and another, just as

face tell

all

you a long time

will take

it

tO'

the difference between Bula Matari and one of his

sons.

Ngalyema about

Therefore, for speaking to

the

knew Makoko, you will forgive me.. I now speak to Makoko, and ask him

country before T

what has he for land

to

Only

this,"

kindly, " that I

my

boats can

replied

Makoko,.

am

glad to see Bula

Matari and his sons.

Land

Eest in peace.

shall be o'iven to

will suit

request

near Kintamo, or somewhere

near the river, where come and go safely ?" "

my

say to

you

to build.

vou where I

want

it

to see-

men here. I have given me long ago from

plenty of white

many the

things

white men's land, and I have

often wished to see those

OXE OF THE EATEKE.

make such wonderful told

you people make

all

shall build in

man who

things.

could

am

I

the cloth, the beads, the guns,

the powder, plates, and glasses. great and good people.

who

Be easy

Kintamo, and

I

Ah in

!

you must be

your mind.

You

should like to see the

says No, to Makoko's Yes."

The mild

old

man,

actually valorous

!

so little

and weak in frame,

w^as

Comfort he certainly imparted

to-

*^

me

;

how

but

influential'' men.

mucli reliance in himself could not yet

However we

be defined.

331

treasured his words.

Under the cheerful influence of his

Usansi.

softness of speech

w^e accepted his gifts of palm-wine, goats, fowls,

l)ananas,

and reciprocated them in the

had been just

were over

liberal at this first meeting, but

We

overjoyed.

gave largely

and

men who Perhaps we then we were

spirit of

gratified with a life's desire.

also to his

four wives,

beads to his children, and draped most of his principal

men in cloth. Finally, Makoko introduced a man named Ngako, wlio was the brother of an Mbundu chief, who owned the land near Kintamo. We gave him twelve whole cloths, a cap, a blanket, a mirror, a few white-handled table knives, and endowed him with various other I'eady,

After the pile of gifts were made

trifles.

^lakoko appeared with

Makoko counted the

A

own

for his little

to

share without

him

Well, I

present of

dark face efl'used

a

them

demur from

in a

the other.

also considerable influence

shores of Stanley Pool, " Indeed.

over, re-sorted

Makoko appeared with another man,

later

and ascribed

them.

to receive

and took with him over one half of

curious manner,

them

gifts

Ngako

clotli

—made

am

to

which

I

came, and

I

on the

only answered,

really glad to see you."

But no

fancied that Makoko's

darker by the soot of mourning

stronger

odour and a few more beads of

perspiration.

Before the evening of a very pleasant

happy day

came, Makoko said to me, " Ngalyema gave you his staff to

show

tlie

people he was your friend.

issi.

Take

THE CONGO.

oSZ 1881.

Usaiisi.

this

sword from Makoko as a

that Biila Matari

si^-ii

is

Makoko's brother."

With peace

about

mind emancipated from

a

all

anxiety, and at

the whole world, so far as I knew, I was

witli

when

to retire for the night,

Makoko craved admittance

to

my

a messenger from

tent with a message

which boded trouble on the morrow, perhaps war. Said he, "

Makoko has

Ngalyema, and

all

sent

and others

to

to

you that

tell

the chiefs of Ntamo, with about 200

guns, have arrived at his village.

been trying

me

Ngalyema has already

engage Ngamberengi, Kimpalampala,

to assist him.

He

has also asked

help him to fight you, and drive you back.

Makoko

He

to

says he

does not want you, or any white man, near him, as no

Bakongo trader would ever come near him But Makoko has sent me and that

if

Ngalyema

to tell

fights

you

if

you

did.

to sleep in peace,

he will cut the road between

here and Kintamo, and his guns will help you to-

morrow." This was not very agreeable news, nor calculated to

produce slumber and calm forgetfulness. travelled twelve miles so swiftly

To have

and suddenly indicated

on the part of Ngalyema earnestness of purpose, and a determination to nip just as they had

my

emerged

hopes of peaceful settlement

in full bloom.

Tuesday, November the 8th, began with a drizzling rain,

but at ten o'clock the sun shone, and the day

promised to continue

Ngoma's situated

village,

fair.

near which

we were camped, was

on a narrow but level-faced spur, extending

PBEPABIXG FOB WAB. from the eastern flank of lyumLi Monnt.

was one

It

issi.

Nov.

of several such spurs, separated from one another

wooded, scrubby gorges crystal streams.

On

—the

by

sources of several small

the next spur to that which

occupied stood Makoko's residential village, and

it

we was

we expected Ngalyema's approach. To approach our camp after declaration of hostilities was therefore impossible, if we chose to take him at

from

this direction

his word, witliout risk of utter extermination.

Ngal-

yema, though a barbarian, was too astute a person to

commence operations

More probably,

manner.

in this

on the strength of previous brotherhood and mutual

exchange of

civilities,

he would enter the camp with

a bland face and an affectation of fraternal love, with ostentatious

and noisy greeting, and

trust to surprise

in the midst of social drinking of ]3alm-wine, I sent

my

tent-boy to

the furthest side of the spies wlio

tell

<S:c.,

&c.

the people to muster on

hill, to

might be on the watch

bo out of view of any

Makoko's

at

hill.

In

a few minutes I proceeded there myself, and found the

men

all

The

assembled. instructions I

gave them there were

brief,

and

such as they could easily remember. " Go, each of bolts on.

you

to his

own hut put your ;

cartridge

See that your cartridges are in your pouches.

Place your guns under your sleeping mats or grass l)cds.

All of you then, excepting Susi's

scatter yourselves about in the liill.

Some

lie

down

some of you behind

in the

my tent

;

bush on

En

men

(twenty),

this side of the

Avanf

a dozen in

in tlie tlie

wagon;

store tent;

8.

usausi.

THE CONGO.

334

some of you pretend

issi.

Xov.

Usansi.

many

l^ow

your

to be sick in

8.

m

people are

;

when you hear

but

run and

and

madmen

so on, like the

you understand ^'

Inshallah

Susi's

!

gong

the

flourish

;

may

you hear the

struck, then all

your guns, and rush up

seize

yelling like

matter

the camp, or what you

hear, do not stir from your places until

gong

No

liiits.

.

all

of you,

your guns about wildly,

Ruga-Huga

of

Do

Unyamwezi.

" ?

they

"

cried.

detachment were instructed to seat themselves

about in the open, and assume a

listless

and indifferent

attitude.

A quarter

seen descending Makoko's

hill

valley intervening between

it

197 .

of an hour later a long line of

inclusive

persons,

Ngalyema's expedition.

of

to the

ranks,

W'

ere

bottom of the

and our own.

all

men I

counted

who were

in

Drum, trumpet, and native

music announced that the chief had assumed state and

ceremony

for this occasion.

shown themselves on our the front of

my

tent,

Before any of them had

hill I

was seated

reading a book.

in a chair in

I cast furtive

my own camp almost abandoned, Zanzibaris, some of whom were alto-

glances about, and saw

except by a few

gether over-acting their parts by pretending to be half asleep.

Keeping

my

eyes hidden by the vizor of

my

cap, I

noted the quick glance thrown around the apparently

abandoned camp by the advancing natives.

When

about a third of their number had entered the camp I rose,

at the

same time the near sound of the not

A DISSEMBLING WELCOME.

me

inharmonious music informed

335

that No-alyema was

issi.

Nov.

not far I

off.

advanced towards them, and when Ngalyema

came, gave him an effusive welcome.

round

and pretended

to Susi,

preparing mats, for

my

&c.,

sails,

finally

I turned sharply

him well

to scold

for not

spread on the ground

to

dear brothers and friends of Kintamo.

Ngalyema was moody-browed, ill

his responses to

my

stiff,

to leap into his

pressible affection.

Makabi was

Mubi grim and

defiant

most unbrotherly

w^elcome, while I looked like

one almost ready

arms

an

irre-

cold and repelling like a young-

young

;

who had suddenly come

surely like one

w^ith

Ganchu seemed

;

leopard eager for bloody sport

Enjeli

acted

of age, so well

he aped the man. " Come,

yema,

is

my

Susi,

so well,

brethren, friends,

glad

very sudden,

I

am

at seeing

I take this visit

so

am

acted

certain,

them and

Though

all.

to

it

have come so

interpret

enter

w^eli

was perpetrating, did

the welcome

so

well

not,

as

I

it.

The boat,

Tell Ngal-

very clever, and could

into the elaborate joke I I

down.

Bula Matari as most kindly intended."

who was

Susi,

sit

through Enjeli there, who know^s Kikongo

how

lar to see

8.

Usansi.

chiefs,

boilers,

who kept

their eyes

and machinery

wandering over the

tents,

and

kejDt

up

in

imdertones a perpetual interchange of ideas, scarcely

deigned to regard me,

until, after

being seated, Ngal-

yema abruptly spoke to Enjeli, his son, in Kiteke, who translated it into Kikongo to Susi and myself:

THE CONGO.

336 1881.

Nor.

have come from Kintamo to see

" I

my brother.

Let

8.

Usansi.

l^ii^^

^^^^

come here

"^^ wliat he has

for."

I repUed, showing the brass-banded staff

what brought me.

liave

I

:

" This

is

done exactly what you

asked me."

At

this

moment another body

of natives, also carrying

guns, came by another path up the gorge,

who

seated

themselves apart from Ngalyema's large force.

These

were Makoko's men.

The appearance of

this force caused

Ngalyema

to

launch forth into a history of his acquaintance with me,

beginning from 1877, which was intended for their special benefit, as they

had been accusing him of an

intention to overstep his proper status as a foreigner

who was

only permitted residence on their

soil to

trade

He ended it in a peremptory manner thus " Now, my brother has been misinformed, and has

in ivory.

:

We Batekc

misunderstood me.

are strangers living on

this side of the river for trade only.

the

Bakongo

to trade

are our customers.

with white

men

if

The Bazombo and

AVe have no objection

they come for trade, but

do not think you have come to trade

cannot come to Kintamo. the

way he

Alakoko.

I

Through " I

am

My

;

therefore

we

you

brother must go back

came, unless he likes to stay here with

have said

my

not a

it."

interpreter I replied, little

boy, Ngalyema, and I will not use

many words. You have brought me thus far yourself. Makoko is going to give me land near Kintamo, and on that land I will build my town. I know something

MASKED HOSTILITY. The land

about the country now.

away, therefore he easy. if

Makoko

will take

and build a

come and

me

Kintamo,

I will

where,

you

fine place there,

see

me

;

not,

if

not yours to give

is

have but one tongue, and

I

to

337

why

if

go with him

like,

you may

then, keep away,

have

I

spoken."

Bula Matari speaks well," he responded mockingly.

*'

We

know white men are clever, but Kintamo is still far, and in the way is Ngalyema and Makabi and Mubi,

''

and plenty more

chiefs,

and the people you

see here are

How

few,

and yet these people know how

will

Bula Matari reach Kintamo with those few men

to shoot.

that he has got ?"

Adopting the tone of

men

to

Kintamo

;

all

manner

will reach

us quarrel.

to-day ;

it

if I

will say so

men cannot

far as here,

Kintamo.

Wait and

wanted

his

to

;

see.

but

But,

as I

take that

many

yet you see I have crossed

mountains and valleys so

it

and ISTgalyema

white

Ngalyema has many men and guns

but Ngalyema and

wagon

let

friend, I said, " Yes,

are clever, I believe,

before long. see,

my

and in the same

my

friend,

do not

could be in Kintamo

I

I will

take

my

time about

meantime, be easy in your mind."

Now

followed a consultation

among

the Bateke in

an undertone, though once or twice some vehemence of

manner

attracted attention,

together I cast

my

and while they communed

eyes about the assembly.

They

were mostly fine-looking men, but made hideous by daubs and splash-like spots and

and yellow and black over VOL.

I.

lines

their faces

and bars of white and

bodies.

z

They

issi,

usansi.

THE CONGO. 1881,

Kov.

were

all

armed with muskets, except those who carried

8.

Usansi.

the ammunition, the gourds being full of powder and slugs of iron and copper.

Suddenly Ngalyema asked,

had ceased

their whispers,

brother brought

saw him

me from

knot of chiefs

after the

"What

nice thing has

my

the white man's land since I

?"

Evidently Ngalyema supposed that coast since

my

I

Come

to

to the

Mfwa

departure from

but I simply said, "

and see

had been

;

my tent,

for yourself."

Ngalyema and Ganchu and

his son Enjeli, with

others, rose to their feet,

and followed

me

Here

to the tent.

the party inspected a quantity of red baize, bright handkerchiefs, a pile of

figured blankets, and lovingly passed

hands over japanned

their

and iron trunks

;

and, after his curio-

was thoroughly

sity

Ngalyema had chosen

you stay where

you

arc.

have

must end in war, and

it.

I

If

own

:

on the condition only

You must make up

your mind that you cannot come chiefs will not

and

a quantity of

he expressed himself as follows

" I will take these goods, but

that

satisfied,

goods valucd at £138 for his

BATEKK NATIVE.

perquisites,

tin boxes

to

Kintamo.

you do not promise,

The this

can no longer be your friend.

Now, what do you say ?" " It

is useless,

Ngalyema,

to talk

more about

this," I

A WAn FETISH.

Make up your mind

"

replied.

Kintamo.

Wamhundu

All the

you have no right

that

How

the land.

But the

my

and

tjgansi

country

own

Kintamo

village of

that

;

you and

AYambundu own ?"

country

mine," he said

is

;

" I

it."

all well.

is

You admit

can you stop the AYambundu from

people built

" That

issi.

that the

;

doing what they hke with their "

that I go to or near

are willing.

to the

the Bateke are strangers

339

do not want your village

I

;

I

only want to get near the river and Imild a village of

my

own, whither

White men

whom "

you

will

many

men will come to trade. do you no harm you do not care to white

;

will sell

your ivory."

Enough, enough

!"

he

cried.

" I say for the last

time you shall not come to Kintamo

any white men among he said the

last

;

we do

not want

And

Let us go, Enjeli."

us.

as

words he pushed aside the tent door and

strode outside, with the emotions of suppressed passion visil)le

for a

on his

While standing near the tent door,

face.

moment

he caught sight of the large

irresolute,

Chinese gong suspended to a cross-bar supported by

two forked

poles.

"

What

'*

It is fetish," I

is

this ?"

he asked, pointing

to the

gong.

answered sententiously.

His young son Enjcli,

who was much more

than his father, whispered to him his

was a kind of a

bell,

1)elief

acute that

upon Avhich Ngalyema

cried

out "

Jjiila

"

Oh, Ngalyema,

Matari, strike this I

;

let

dare not;

me it is

hear the

it."

war

fetish

z 2

it

!"

THE COXGO.

3-10

1881, Nov. 8. L'sansi.

"

Xo^ no," said

Mataii, that

I

may

" I dare not, it is

lie,

imj)atieiitl3%

''

Beat

Bula

it,

hear the sound."

Xgalyema.

It

is

the signal for

armed men

the fetish that calls up

it

;

war

would he

too bad."

" Xo, no, no

Matari

;"

I

!

tell

you

Strike

to strike.

it,

Bula

and he stamped on the ground with childish

impatience.

" Well, then

member,

war

;"

"

told

I

and

— taking the beater in my hand was a bad YOU —a fetish

it

as I

lifted

With

all

like tone

my

it,

re-

fetish for

the beater high with uplifted

hand, I asked again, " Shall I strike " Strike— strike

''

I tell

you

now ?"

!"

force I struck the gong, the loud bell-

sounding in the silence caused by the hushed

concentrated attention of

all

ling in the extreme, but as

upon the the

scene,

was

start-

rapid strokes we're

applied vigorously the continued sound seemed to them like thunder.

They had not recovered from

shock of astonishment

when

the forms of

seen bounding over the gunwale of the

J^?i

and war-whooping

in

over their heads,

From my

tent,

the

first

men were

Avant right their

ears.

and from the gorge behind them, a

stream of frantic infuriates emer^'ed as though from the earth. finally

The

collapsed,

madmen sprang rently

store-tent

was violently

agitated,

and

and a yelling crowd of demoniac

out one after another, every one appa-

madder than

his neighbour.

The

listless,

sleepy-

eyed stragglers burst out into a perfect frenzy of action.

From under

the mats in the huts there streamed into

THE SIGNAL OF THE GONG.

?Al

view such a frantic mob of armed men, that

to the

issi.

Nov.

panic-struck natives the sky and the earth seemed to

he contributing to the continually increasing number

Every

warriors.

death-dealing

of

native

joresent,

wo aid-be

friend and would-be foe, lost his senses com-

pletely

the

;

before

fled

seated warriors

strange

this

forgot their guns

deluge and

awful

and

scene.

The ammunition-bearers threw their gourds away some were broken, and the powder and slugs were and as Ngalyema was scattered over the ground

—

;

standing paralysed with fear^ and with his faculties

benumbed,

seized

I

him by the arm, and

said softly

to liiin

" is

Be not

afraid,

Eemember Bula Matari Stand behind me; I will protect

Ngalyema.

your brother.

you."

The Zanzibaris were now a

yelling crowd in front of

me, calling out taunting and menacingly " Ha, ha, tari,

Ngalyema

Ngalj^ema

!

!

You came

—

to fight Bula

AYhere are your warriors, Ngalyema

There could not be a better representation of less,

bloodthirsty fury than that which

t]iese

?"

relent-

was sliown by

amateur black actors in the suddenly improvised Their assumed frenzy was the next thing to

scene.

Had

reality.

liave

Ma-

I

not been in the secret I also should

been duped

defended

grasped

my

;

poor brother,

me round

who with

his

I

two hands

the waist, danced from side to side

to avoid furious strokes

young

with which

while the valour

from the wild-eyed men, while

Enjeli clung behind his father

and followed

his

8.

usansi.

THE CONGO.

342 1881.

Usan>i.

movements, reminded me of

tlie

long-forgotten play of

" lien-and-chickens."

" Save me, Bula Matari

mean anything,"

did not "

cried

Hold hard, Ngalyema

me

of

come

!

them hurt me

let

I

keep

fast

hold

Come

one,

Ah, ha!" &c.

all!

But the camp was ahnost emptied of our

much

!

Ngalyema.

" I cried, "

you, never fear.

will defend

I

;

do not

;

ammunition was

of the

visitors,

behind, the guns

left

were strewn over the ground, and the play was well acted. "

Enough, boys

;

fall

and " Silence

into line,"

"

was

captains,

and the

obedient, well-trained fellows fell into line at "

Shoulder

by Susi and

cried out

arms as

his brother

" with all the precision of military veterans. Then,

Ngalyema had allowed

side in

mute

his

hands

down by his

to fall

surprise at this other transformation scene,

I took hold of his

two hands, and

said with

an assuring

smile

" Well, Ngalyema, what do you

now

think of the

white man's fetish ?"

"Ah, are run

T

was not

away

Ay

!

was I?

afraid,

me, such braves

me

But

and Ganchu

left

where did

these people come from

"

Ah,

want

all

that

to see

is

with

!

my

people

Only

Enjeli

See, all !

me, Bula Matari,

tell

" ?

the bad fetish I told you of!

any more

?

again, and the next scene

Come,

Do you

I will strike tlie

gong

may perhaps be more wonder-

ful still." ""

What

" !

he shrieked, while he

laid his

hand upon

SUCCESS OF THE BUSE.

my

" No, no

arm.

don't touch

;

343

Ay,

it.

verily, that

1881.

Nov.

must he a bad at the

round innocent

"Look said

he said gravely, shaking his head

fetish,"

again

yet

of the gong.

fiice

these

at

pointing to the long line

I,

Ngalyema,"

people,

of smiling

soldier-

labourers. "

Attention

quietly

!

right face

no noise

;

go about

it

was

onl}^

to the fugitives for their

another,

all

!

Ganchu

amid boisterous merriment,

to

one

their individual

was heard

Messengers w^ere then sent to Ma-

Ngoma's

koko's and

re-

Half-an-hour later

return.

back again in the camp, retailing

all others.

line

halloed loudly

experiences, while Ngalyema's loud laugh

above

The

then Ngalyema began to

cover himself, while Enjeli and

they were

"

Forward, march

his business.

vanished, and

of you march forward

your guns away, and each

put

;

all

!

for great

gourds

others were sent to procure goats

and these were given to me.

full

of palm-wine

;

and pigs and bananas,

Over

the palm-wine

we

mutually swore faithful brotherhood and an everlasting peace

;

and the doughty warriors of Ngalyema

embraced in a fraternal manner the

jolly

and the Europeans

—the

of Bula ^latari, " Bula Mutari,"

who,

for a

man

of old

to

be ever married,

— were

fondly besieged by

Kintamo.

Makoko, who was

him

their ardent Ijrothers of

sons

that was never married,

and one of the most unlikely of men really M'ere a credit to

good fellows

generally believed to be the oldest inhabitant in the country, on being asked his opinion of the scene, said that he

had "never witnessed such a day

as this."

8.

Usansi.

THE

344

8.

Usausi.

Ngalyema returned on bis way to ^ \ with his people, much wiser than when he

Before evening,

1881.

Xov.

COXGfj.

_

Kintamo

came, and

.

I

was

practical joking

left

on

with the memories of

this expedition,

which had

entertained evervhodv concerned in

it.

my

first

so highly

SUSI FvECOXXOIinES.

CHAPTER

345

XVIII.

THE FOUNDING OF LEOPOLDVILLE.

—^Prospects of road-making—Payment of —Xgamberengi's account of Xgalyema's —^Fighting strength of tribes— Our advance on Kintamo — Native villages Selecting camping gi'ound —Leopold Hill — An from Xgalyema —New camp formed.

Susi reconnoitres the country

native workers

life

offer

The next day

a clioseu band of

vonng men was

de-

spatched under Susi, the Lead chief of the foreign native

employe's,

and Wadi Rehani, who acted as

quarter-master and commissary-general of the expedition, to reconnoitre

the country as far as a

and in view of Kintamo, and

to

camp near

inform

me what

chances there were for speedy road-making and for the

movement

of

the

camp.

I

in

the

meantime

devoted myself to enlist native carriers.

By

night Susi and his

reported

that the

party had returned

nature of the country prevented

any very quick movement.

There were a number of ;

but about an

march from Kintamo we should

find a broad

streams, valleys, and ridges to be crossed

hour's

and

plain-like ridge covered

with grass, which continued to

within a short distance of the river, where

it

sloped

i^^^^-

Usan.ii.

346 1881.

Csandi.

TEE COXGO.

o-entlv to the water's edfre.

plain maintained

whence

a

cataract

its level,

ijlace.

however, the

and was projected

commanding view over

was oLtained.

rapids of

At one

At

to a point,

the Pool and the

all

the foot of this

hill

the

Kintamo commenced.

But before we could reach the plain of Kintamo or Kintambu,

work

Wambundu

as the

called

there

it,

to be done, principally cutting

was hard

through

forests,

grading- along the slopes of several steep hills,

there would be some difficult hauling. to be not so

and,

bad as

that the practical joke all

was said

many places we had passed already

what was more promising than

had won

Still it

where

all,

they related

upon proud, boasting Xgalyema,

the natives alono- the road to erive their

adhesion to Makoko's wish that

we

should settle near

Kintamo.

The bantering humour and rough upon Ngalyema and

practised

his

" horse-play

confederate

l^roduced a very remarkable effect indeed on the

''

chiefs

Wam-

bundu, as was proved by our enlistment in one day of 78 native carriers.

Each of these was

eno-ao-ed at the rate of four red

handkerchiefs for the carriage of a man-load

65

lbs.

— on

of which receij^t

was

to be

made

to

payment

at sunset, according to his

given to him by the European in charge of the

advance of a

a journey of sixteen miles, the

— 60

station.

It

was agreed

wagon from one camp

also that the hauling

to

another should be

equivalent to the carriage of four loads, inasmuch as it

generally occupied an equal time.

3IBAMA HILL.

347

me to put a large force on the road under Albert, who was the only one capable of managing a company of men in the advance expediBy the aid of natives and the tion at that time. remainder of our own people, we should be able to This enabled

TYPES OF OUn COLOURED EiirLOYES.

overtake the pioneers day after day with the wagons

and goods.

Our camp was pitched on the top of Mbama Hill, on the 16th of November. Ngamberengi and Kimpalampala appeared district,

and

— as we were now in their immediate

as these

and influence

to

old

were the next

in rank, authority,

Makoko— to

express in person

1881.

Kuv, 10. UsaiiJi.

THE CONGO.

348 1881.

Jibama Hill.

bank

their full consent to our occupation of the river

Nov. 16.

^

They were

^car Kintamo.

and reception that ing- a

I

,

.

.

.

so cordial in their

manner

experienced no difficulty in

initiat-

plan of action which was to he carried out

our vicinity to selection of the

when

Stanley Pool would necessitate the

ground

to

he occupied by the future

station.

Ngamberengi, an

intelligent

man,

far better qualified

by personal appearance and worth than any one

I

had

seen on the Congo to assume the rank of chief, related to it

me

the followins: history of ISTo-alyema, which, as

Makoko Kimpalampala, Sabuka, Ngoma, and

was delivered publicly

himself, besides

Ngako, and

was

in the presence of

others, corrected also

at fault, I believe

is

by them when he

accurate.

Xo-alvema and his two brothers were of

Bamanku, an important man and

When Bamanku

Kinshassa, equally

divided amongst

They continued trading,

i.e.,

who brought

died his

the

three

property was brothers.

to increase their properties

by ivory

buying from the By-yanzi canoe men the ivory from up-river, and reselling at

nearer the coast,

to

a chief living at

slave

considerable profit to the

silk

oriii-inally slaves

and woollen

Bazombo and Bakongo men

who periodically brought stuffs,

cotton goods

crockery, arms, and

Kinshassa for barter.

brokers, like the Bateke'

They were,

in

gunpowder fact,

ivory

whom we see to-dav established

along the shores of Stanley Pool.

One day

at a drinking bout,

during w^hich a great

deal of palm-wine and native beer

was consumed, there

ACCOUNT OF NGALYEMA

S LIFE.

3-19

and one of Xg-alyema's brothers was

•was a quarrel,

i83i.

Xov. 16.

This caused an estrangement, wherein the

slain.

signs of discontent were manifested

first

by Ngalyema

Hill.

to-

wards Nchiivila, chief of Kinshassa.

Some months

elapsed, however, without

any rupture,

but at a subsequent drinking gathering an indignity to

was

his house

who

fatally resented

by Ngalyema's

brother,

The murderer, though

shot the offender dead.

once a slave, being a person of importance, could not be captured, and a war was declared by Nchuvila against

Xgalyema and

him. for

his brother defended themselves

some time with varying

many The

fights

success, but in one of the

that took place

was

the brother

killed.

survivor, Ngalyema, took to flight that night, and

escaped to Mfwa.

There he resided

was not

in peace, but trade

Kinshassa, and sence

much

whereupon,

;

fled to

so

jealousy

chief

good

had

Mfwa

as at

his pre-

to avoid further complications,

of

Kinshassa.

different

mother) of

place, the

been obtained from the

Ngalyema was then known

he

Ngako's village of

Kintamo was then an unimportant of which

at

some time

was caused by

Ngako, a brother (by a

Xchuvila,

for

ground

Wambundu.

Before however

as Itsi.

he could avail himself of Ngako's village as a place of residence, he

of the

had

to

Wambundu,

acknowledge the

the chiefs of

territorial rights

whom,

^Makoko,

Ijcrengi,

and Kimpalampala proceeded

demand

his authority for residing there.

then related a most

and begged them

pitiful story of

to

Ngam-

Kintamo

to

Ngalyema

wars and

jn.ama

troubles,

to grant a jDlace to build a village in

THE CONGO.

350 1881.

"Wambundu country,

the

debasino- himself, as

the

is

*

Nov.

16.

jibama Hill.

'

•

custoiii

He

\

•

c

'

^

^

wheii pleading, by rubbino- his face in the dust.

said that he only needed a small place to be safe

from Nchuvila, who souglit

to

kill

He made

him.

each of the chiefs a present of a small tusk of ivory,

and the permission was granted.

grown

" Since which time," saidNgamberengi,"hehas great by trade.

He

now a

is

rich man.

He

married a

daughter of Makoko of Lema, and another daughter of

Kimbangu

the chief of hassa),

and by

(about five miles above Kins-

his alliances he has put a ring

round

Kinshassa, so that old Nchuvila has been obliged to

Ngako, who ought

make peace with him. Nchuvila as

kino- of

now old and foolish his own hand, is the

Kinshassa when the

and

;

Itsi,

to succeed

latter dies, is

taking the poAver into

great chief of Kintamo.

Several

other Bateke chiefs have joined him, such as Makabi and

There are altogether nine chiefs at Kintamo,

Mubi.

who have made it a much larger place than Kinshassa. " Ngalyema has about 150 guns all the rest put toMakoko of Lema has gether have perhaps 300 more. almost as many as Kintamo Kimbangu and Mikunga ;

;

have about 200 each

;

while Kinshassa and Kindolo

cannot muster 300 guns.

when going All the

Wambundu

ings

which

that is

Ngalyema,

thousand guns

chiefs put together cannot

show

We

know we cannot way, but we have our own way of fight-

many guns

him

that

has made Ngalyema's head big.

It is this that

fight

see

to war, can bring over a

easily.

half so

You

as

Ngalyema.

just as good.

We

stop the markets until

ADVANCE ON KINTAMO. question

tlie

settled

is

Kintamo than can be obtain

fed

by

their fields, the ^^eople put

to listen to us,

and then we

what we want.

Now

"

and, as there are more people at

;

Ngalyema

a pressure on

351

Go on

you follow our advice.

are going right to the river

question against what

we say we

and Ngalyema

foil

the ground if he

way you

our people shall carry

;

your goods and haul your wagons.

will

the

If there

any

is

shall stop the markets,

fi'om his

high place deep to

makes any trouble

— they

in our country.

Do you

see those little

yet, but

they are big enough to chase Ngalyema and

boys?

his thieving Bateke' back to their

Mbe where they came

are not very

own

big-

poor country of

from."

After this stirring speech, delivered in an energetic

manner with frequent

fierce gestures

was required, he proceeded where he would advise me

On mil

the to

lOtl],

the

my

town.

Hill,

near the

banks of the

Ngamljerengi, Ngako, Makoko, and

Lutess stream. all

to build

camp was removed from Mbama

Lama-Lankori

Nkwama,

when emphasis

to indicate the exact sjDot

Wambuiidu

to silence all the

chiefs,

murmurs

proceeded ahead of us

of the j)etty chiefs

— Ganchu,

Kimpe, Kinswangi, Kimyara, and Ngalyema AVainbundu; and that night Makoko

and

— of

his

the

little

daughter slept in our camp, after reporting that everyl>ody all

was quite prepared

the country

Here, sage

was

also, before

liuiii

at I

to give us

my

welcome, and that

feet.

retired

Kintamo, and the

:irri\"c(l

a

leiiiaiiiing

friendly mesfive

loads of

issi.

jib^ma' ^'^''

THE COXGO.

352 1881.

Xov. 29.

Kintamo.

o-oods left in No'alyema's care by Susi. Said the mes^ " Bula Matari lias "^'on sengers from tlieir chief .

.

:

everybody on his peace,

and

all will

Arriving

Let him, therefore, come in

side.

be well,"

finally at the plain

is

near Kintamo

camp, accompanied by some of

I left the

on the 29th,

which

the natives, by a path which would take

mount above

the rapids of

me

to the

Kintamo described by

Susi.

After tliree-quarters of an hour's journey over the almost level plain,

suddenly obtained a view of the

I

navigable portion of

To

Pool.

my

tlie

To

my

Stanley

Kintamo, on a terrace that was

lower than the plain on which I stood.

there was a narrow projection from the

left

plain, like

whicli

feet

to

the distance of a mile, was the

riglit, at

cluster of villages called

about 175

up

river leading

an index

was about 25

finger, the

topmost altitude of

higher •than the mean level

feet

of the plain.

AVe continued our march for three-quar-

ters of a mile,

when we

cataract of

Kintamo.

obtained a view of the great

Below the

hill

215

feet,

and

at

the extreme left corner of this ridge-like formation, the

Upper Congo

first

became

became a dangerous

rufided and_, a mile below,

it

cataract, nearly opposite to whicli

could be seen the divided mouth of the Gordon Bennett.

Tracing the northern shore for lighted on Mfwa.

five

miles, our eyes

Al)Ove this village the shore was

low and marshy, but wooded, and extended three miles beyond which

was Malima.

to a point,

A

few miles

higher up, the low grounds around Malima were bounded l)y

the forest

mount of Kintari, while the great upright

KINTAMO BAYLET. walls of

Dover

353

rounded in a crescent form south-

Cliffs

issi.

Nov. 29.

ward, to the base of the Inga Peak, near which was

Upper Congo.

the entrance to the

Peak, on the south bank, was a the neighbourhood of

Near here was a

Kimbangu and Mikunga. north for six miles.

and distant about

From

the banks of these east

little

of

Between Kinshassa and Kintamo cliffy

The bay let

designated Kallina Point.

since

point,

fifteen

forming

cluster of villages,

were two deep baylets separated by a

there

of

The south bank con-

southern shore curved a

the

villages

mount, indicating

had arrived almost in a

it

direct southern line from us,

miles.

tall

Kimpoko.

tinued to run west until

Opposite to Inga

Kintamo curved grandly southward of west from

Kallina Point, as far as the landing-place of Kintamo,

whence

it

swept towards us past the foot of the ridge

on which we stood, and broke into small rapids.

As

Kintamo baylet was the nearest

the shore of

navigable portion of the Upper Congo, and between

it

and the coast the country was open, and peopled only by friendly

tribes,

whom we

liad learned

during our

slow progress hither to esteem for their kindly dispositions

bade

and mild manners, necessity as well

me

select for the station such

unoccupied, and which the

as

prudence

ground as was

still

Wambundu had power

to

give me, without the prospect of our possession being disputed.

The natives who were with me were well

acquainted

witli the distinctive

examination of territory

VOL.

I.

still

the

boundaries, and, on an

water front of the unoccupied

available for navigation,

I

estimated that 2

a

Kiutamo"

THE CONGO.

354 1881.

Kintamo.

length was about 500 yards, that

total

its

Nov. 29.

beginning of the rapids

Ngalyema's Inland

it

village.

It

from the

Hill,

built.

stream below

first

was a very modest

was of course wide enough

might be

Leopold

the

to

on the level plain of wliich city

is

^

_

acquisition.

for all purposes

;

was part even a

this hill

Khonzo Ikulu

Hill,

now

called

on which we stood, was 110 paces wide,

and supplied a most admirable situation

for a sanata-

rium, with a very pleasing prospect of the lake-like expjansion of the

Congo known

as Stanley Pool.

would,

It

however, be about 700 yards direct distance from a cove in the shore below, near which I marked out a

landing place.

our station

it

AVere

we

to

adopt this

would be too

far in

the boat cove, with only thirty

judged that in the night time for a

it

hill as

my

men

to

would

fit

a site for

opinion from

guard

be easy

it.

I

enough

few bold fellows from Kintamo to make a swoop

upon the

boats, cast off their chains,

and shove them

out into the current, which in a short time would take

them down the great cataract There only remains, of Leopold Hill, which

to refer to, the hollow

of

it

Vv-ith

and slope

was now a wild waste of

grass, several feet in height.

camp

to total destruction.

I could

an unsettled mind, and

tall

not return to the

I traversed the

whole

in various directions, to find the eligible spot, for

view, defence, and safe proximity to the boats. last I stood

At

on the slope of Le'opold Hill at a height of

eighty feet above the river, whence, looking southward, I

had a good view of Kintamo

front of me,

two small streams

village, Ijeing

600 yards in

between us and

XGALTE^MA'S IXVITATIOX.

Eastward

tlie village.

could see, up the river,

I

^

355

.

Mfwa

,

on the north bank, Kallina Point on the south bank,

and a long stretch up the Pool extending

Between Kallina Point and Kintamo

Cliffs.

see

the

patriarchal

Dover

to

baobabs of Kinshassa,

I could

and the

Adansonia marking Kindolo, and, bounding the view from

south,

mounts inland from

and

uplands

the

Kimpoko and Mikunga.

should be 300 yards from

I

the landing place, but the ground sloped easily towards it.

I

could

have the village of the coloured men

between the store-room and residences of the Europeans and Kintamo, with abundant spaces for gardens of bananas and fruit-trees around, which would give vivid greenness to the view from the front door of the residence.

From

this slope I could carve out a terrace,

and a broad road could lead gently up the

plain,

on

which some day perhaps we should see rows of shade trees.

A

bloom of

civilisation

ground of the picture that would

should first

the

l)e

fore-

meet the eyes of

down from

the traveller from the coast, as he looked

the verge of the plain over the expanse of the Pool.

Having

definitively settled the site of the

new

station

as agreeably with our circumstances as the nature of

the ground would permit,

we

returned to the camp.

Soon afterwards another peaceful message came from

Ngalyema

much

inviting

as this

me

But,

message would have been welcome a few

weeks previously,

it

was now too

proferred kindness was

On

village.

to build in his

the 1st of

all

December

My

late.

thanks

for

that I could give. at

daybreak

a

hundred men 2

A

2

issi. Xov. 29.

Kintamo.

1881.

356

THE COXGO.

vrere led out of the

camp, and with machettes, hoes,

Nov. 29. Kintamo.

.

^^^ ^^^s marked out a straight path to the ground intended for the station.

many

Then

a brush circle or fence

deep and about 100 yards in diameter was

feet

formed, also half-a-dozen log towers to approaches.

command

the

This work was followed by cutting the

grass and scrub level wdth the ground for a hundred

yards clear space around the encampment, which completed our left in

first

day's task.

A small

the encampment, and

we

The next day we widened and by noon

it

guard of men were

then retired.

the road for the wagons,

reached the camp and thence to the

The afternoon was employed by

landing-place.

united force of aborigines and our

own

the

expeditionary

people in transporting the tents and the goods, so that

by sunset on the 2nd of December there remained only the

wagons behind.

the place

We now

slept in the

camp near

whence the steamers should depart on

mission to the

Upper Congo.

By noon

their

of the 3rd of

December, 1881, the wagons had been drawn to the landing-place, in the quiet

rapid or

and the steamer

Ea

Avant was floating

haven of the Kintamo

baylet, with

no

impediment intervening between her snug

cove and Stanley Falls, and with open navigation of

about 5000 miles before her.

SGALTEMA AND

"

BULA MATATJr

CHAPTER

357

XIX.

THE FOUXDIXG OF LEOPOLDYILLE

Continued.

—Wily of Xgalyema — A one-sided —Strained relations—" Everybody's finger on the trigger — Armed — Gorgeous apparel — Speak, Ngalyema — " peace or war? " Ay, me, Bula Matari —The brotherhood not broken — Kintamo a populous —Proposed palaver— Outbreak imminent — Mysterious disappearance of two of my men — Arrival of Konko — The palaver takes place — The trouble ended— Noisy joicing— Trading operations — Kinshassa — Xchuvila — Our blockhouse— News from Yivi—New recnoits— Bwabwa Xjali's convenient forgetfulness — Strength of the expedition—Malingering— Anxiety about the exploring party^— Selling to the natives — Witchcraft Profit on ivory — Thriving gardens — A enmity jmrty —

Ngalyema and " Bula Matari

"

tactics

balance sheet

is

"

'

visits

'

kill

it

!

;

"

is

is

j^lace

re-

is

Enjeli's

lost

Ivory transactions

— The

people anxious to trade

—Brotherhood

with

book

for

Ngalyema.

The founding itself.

It

is

of

Leopoldville

deserves

such a curious storv,

full

a

of petty but • -

interesting incidents

woven round two

central figures,

namely, Xgalyema and " Bula Matari." Doubtless " Bula ^[atari" his

is

well known, at least

works on Africa

man.

15ut

f\\ncy

Ngalyema ?

many who have

read

they have a dim idea of the

Who

could describe him with-

out giving in detail the illustrative incidents which

presented the full

man

finally, after patient study, to the

comprehension of his own blood-brother

?

1881. Dec. 1. ,

Leopold^''^^•

TEE CONGO.

358 18S1

Lebi-oui-

*

I

must endeavour

lest this early is

to

sum

l)im

up

in a

few paragraphs,

He

photograph of him will fade away.

improving so

he soon will be unrecognisable.

fast that

His former roguish simplicity has been supplanted

by the

knowing

faculty of

being detected as rogueries are

they are formed, so that his

fast as

now

that his cunning acts are

when

opportunities

what the

arri\'al of the

only practised

arise.

At Mfwa white

man

of his

own

his cue

was

to test

signified in connection with the possibilities

enrichment.

Believing, through some stupid

exaggerations of the native coast traders, that the white

man's wealth was boundless, he the readiness of the white

person as an object of

by

suddenly came

to

forthwith,

men

in general, he

the conclusion that he had

gestions that the white as

Ngalyema's,

Sobered somewhat

liberality.

estimated their liberality

long

to select his.

descriptions of white

Susi's

so

man

about fathoming

set

;

over-

he listened eagerly to sug-

man might

choose to pay only

and

he received something in return,

when confirmed

in

impressions, he

these

drove Susi away.

When had

said,

he heard that the white

man

was, after

he

advancing upon Kintamo, he hit upon a plan

of enforcing the withdrawal of the white

from the scene, and presented himself prepared

all

to

effect his

object.

man

at the

He was

for ever

camp

fully

not quite so

sanguine that he could compel Bula Matari to return

when the Wambundu turned a deaf ear to and Makoko and Ngamberengi refused their

his offers

aid

;

and

A ONE-SIDED BALANCE-SHEET. he utterly collapssd after that of

humour on the part of

From

man was

goods

—

to

late astonishing exhibition

the white man.

it

rich

;

The

he had seen his store-tents

full

of

might be that some portion of these might

his share.

brother's health

;

He became

interested in his dear

although at heart he would

much

prefer to have seen all of his brother's colour poisoned

right off the face of the earth could he

some safe method of clearing them

off.

have known

He

despatched

kind messages day after day, accompanied with loaves of bread, goats, sheep,

palm-wine and beer.

ciprocating these the white presents amounting to six

times

this

many

reciprocal

man was

times their value.

been effected without question.

re-

About

of gifts

had

The white man then

struck a balance-sheet one day in this form

Debit.

In

expected to give

interchange

1881. Dec. 1.

Leopold-

that day he started on another tack.

"U'hite

fall

359

:

ville.

THE CONGO.

360 1881. Dec. 1.

Leopold-

....

Matarl ransacked his note-books, and castins; up

with wliich Ngalyema had

costs of the various articles

already been

while to

]]is

Little

by

was amazed

enriched, he

Ngalyema was

little

country become

had

to find

that

amount exceeding £900,

debited to an

£G6 could

credit scarcely

tlie

be placed

!

his true political status in tlie

known

to us.

From being king

l)y

divine right over an important tribe he had dwindled

down

to a

future

power by investing

slaves

and arms.

He

mere ivory-trader who was building up a his profits in the purchase of

had developed a singular

an aptitude

for

assuming

talent for

airs of

brag

— he had

consequence such as

well might become a born African king

;

he surrounded

himself with the state of a great chief, was exact in suppressing liberties unbecoming the presence of one in great authority and power the

;

withal he was insatiable,

more he received the more devouring became

his

greed, and the large gift of one day seemed to be utterly

forgotten on the next.

This village

man was

to

be our neighbour.

His residential

was only 600 yards away from our camp, which

we proposed

to replace shortly

anywhere above

by a

station.

To

build

would have been impru-

his village

dent, because our native caravans while following the road,

which would of necessity run by

might be dispersed by a mere

threat.

his

district,

Life would soon

become unendurable under such conditions.

Ngalyema would only instincts.

be guided by his

own

lawless

If he were daily flattered and daily bribed

"

to

EVEBYBODY'S FINGER OX THE TBIGGEUr

we

keep the peace,

never be in a free con-

slioiilcl

dition to prosecute our

361

work on

Upper Congo.

the

1881. Dec.

1.

Ldopold-

Our mission would be only an endeavour appetite growing- ever greater

was sharp enough

and

should not become cloyed.

the other hand, lived in a constant dread of

and had

rupture,

to

contend against numerous enemies

of various nationalities, castes, creeds, and colour.

our joresent condition tracted

an

He

feeding.

to be able soon to perceive this,

to take care that his appetite

We, on

by gross

to satisfy

war

it

My

of wits.

be correct, and

was most

tliat is

In

likely to be a pro-

supposition turned out to

the reason wliy I say that the

founding of Le'opoldville would really require a whole

book

to itself to

give due justice to our manoeuvres to

keep the peace.

The aboriginal

subjects of

with the wages they had service,

earned in the transport

were asked by their chief about the

affairs at is

Makoko, when returning

Kintamo

;

state of

they replied, " Everybody's finger

on the trigger." This was a pithy and concise description of the

attitude

of

which Ngalyema and

in

Kintamo and the Expedition

another.

months.

I

regret to say that

Every now and then

brother chiefs

his

stood it

it

towards one

existed

many

for

appeared as

if

an

explosion was imminent; but the rupture was always

warded

off

by some triumph,

become almost

an

Ngalyema learned on his passions.

impossibility,

until

so

finally

it

thorouglily

has

has

the lesson of exercising self-restraint

^'^^^•

THE COS GO.

362

For the

issi.

of the

illustration

above

quote a few

I

L»t C. 6.

Leopold-

my

extracts from

""'"'

"December

diary of that early period.

1881.— Camp

3rd,

Xgalyema appeared

after

by Stanley

we had

Pool.

finished the launch

of the steamer, and had secured her by chains to stout trees.

He was accompanied by about two After

followers.

dozen armed

usual gifts of palm-juice

his

and

a goat, he asked to see some of our nice things.

showed him

shawls, military and

fine

and sleigh "

silks, satins, velvets,

bells,

gold and silver

livery

swords, and cutlery, &c.

He then begged for

a fine coat, a hand-bell, a knife, a

pair of brass anklets for his child, and finally seized

a boat robe, worth £8 in London,

mv

" I put

have the means

said,

'

Now, Xcal-

these nice things as a proof that

all

be

to

upon

my private property.

hand on them, and

yema, you have seen I

lace,

hand

robes,

coats,

I

liberal.

from us you must be good.

To get

It will not

a passion and storm about.

nice presents

do to get into

Besides goats and sheep,

and such things, you must prove your friendship by keeping your people in order.

There must be no

fighting between your people and mine that

we must make

carrying guns to stop

and

make

a law to

taking guns to your place.

People

when they have taken

town, and

too

I will

much palm-wine and

are very apt to be quarrelsome, and fight is killed,

You

then there

lost a

to jorevent

a law to stop your people from

my

my peoj)le from

;

is eitlier

;

somebody

a heavy fine or a

brother at Kinshassa in this manner.

us agree to stop

it

right here."

beer

fight.

Let

STRAINED RELATIONS. *' '

Ay,

he

true,' said

that

' ;

is

363

a good thing.

It will

issi Dec.

men like you and I to fight. Give You have spoken wise words. Now

not do for two great

me your hand. let me have the

I agree to

things.

"

The goods were delivered

"

December

though

4th.

—To day

which seems

future,

to him.

Sunday, and a day of rest

is

my mind from dwelling upon

cannot keep

I

all.'

me

to

our

be very unsatisfactory

to

almost hopeless.

"December visit, ^

and desired

Bad,'

Monday.

5th,

to

I replied.

If refused he blusters,

talks about the country being his

we came

not to

for, if

a

asking for every nice thing he

is

cannot satisfy him.

I

me

know how things were going on. I think Ngalyema will give me a

He

deal of trouble. sees.

*

—Ngamberengi paid

own, asks us what

irive o'reat chiefs like

him some-

thing.'

" '

he

Ah, he

figlits

him

give

already.

head.

we so

a great

is

shall

much

That

liar

all

!

Never mind him.

If

Do

not

be at your back.

cloth.

He

has got

too

much

what has given him such a large

is

If he wants

any nice

cloth tell

him

to

buy

it

with something.' "

At

3 P.M.

Ngalyema, attended by Makabi, Mubi,

Ngako, and other

chiefs,

armed men, appeared.

I

and followed by about 100

gave orders that none of the

arms should be admitted within the fenced camp. of

my

One

servants, trying to block the gateway, received

from the hands of Ngalyema an imintentional spear-

wound near

the

eye,

from which the blood flowed

3.

leopoid-

THE CONGO.

364 1881. Dec. 5.

Leopold-

copiously.

I

iDointed

•

1

sorry, and assisted to stanch

with his orders to keep "

Ngalyema and

this day.

It

He was

out to Ngalyema.

it

all

was probably a

T

and he

it,

weapons

•

1

i

J

aJso assisted

out.

were dressed splendidly

his chiefs

was dressed with a flowing

1

Each chief

visit of state.

silk robe, under-vest of silk,

cotton underclothes, with an outer dress of silk

;

yellow,

blue and crimson seemed to be the favourite colours.

Ngalyema's arms were almost completely covered with rings,

over which were heavy brass

and armlets.

His ankles were adorned with

polished brass wristlets

red copper rings, which must have weighed 10

Makabi was rival

each.

similarly dressed, for he seemed to be a

and

dress

in

lbs.

equipments.

The

other

chiefs

exhibited their individual tastes.

"

The

hair of

all

the Bateke chiefs

and people was

tucked neatly in a knot or chignon over the hinder part of the

have visit,

crown of the head.

liad a busy

time of

it

The native barbers must this

day preparing

for the

the fetish face-marks of ochre, white pipe and

yellow clays, relieved the bronze-coloured faces, though not to advantage. ing-glasses were

Circlets of

worn round

round zinc-framed look-

their heads as a makeshift

for kino'lv crowns. "

Xgalyema laughed

though pleased with

Makabi strutted about more than usual

himself.

hear the

greatly, as

soft rustling of his silk

—

I presume.

—

to

Mubi was

not loth to attract attention, as he was more conversational than ordinarily.

variously

called

Old Ngako or Xkow, as they

him, though quite

in

his

dotage,

ABMED Young

asserted himself.

365

VISITS.

Eujeli, in his

was

silks,

in

issi. Dec. 5.

better

form than usual.

Luopoid-

" I again took an opportunit}", before they returned to their village, of telling

that if they wished to

them

keep on friendly terms with me, they must omit the habit of bringing guns and spears into

otherwise

it

was impossible

to say

my

settlement,

how long

the peace

could be maintained. " I

marked out the

A

in earnest.

terrace to-day,

large clearing of 1 >ush and scrub has also

we

been made, by which safer against

and work has begun

are enabled to feel a

little

any treacherous attack.

"December

Gth.

—Xgalyema

visited

me

again to-day,

He

with another large following of armed men. not seem to remember that

we had mutually passed

did

a law

against the carrying of arms in each other's territory.

men were

His

disagreeable in their manners, I thought

My

rather insolent.

looked cross,

friend, unstable as water, pouted,

when reminded

of this law.

Xgalyema

•

to-morrow will return the things Bula Matari gave him, and will break the brotherhood between

"

'

with

Be

it

me

;

as it

you is

Matari's camp,

return them.

with guns in this

say,

The

Xgal^'ema's heart

in it

Xgalyema.

is

Law

at is

Kintamo.

law,

my camp

Keep

and nobody

again.

I will

is

not

not in ]3ula

the goods or

will be received

If I see

camp with guns, mark me,

trouble

it is

;

us.'

you approach

take

it

to

mean

war " December 7th, at 2 .saying,

'

Xgalyema

is

i\M.,

Dualla rushed up to me,

crossing our

little

river with

THE CONGO.

)6()

1881.

forty guns.

Makabi, Mubi, and Ganchu are with

Dec. 7. Loojioid-

liim.

.

Over a Imndred men with guns are beyond the

Not

river in the grass.'

my men

forty of Ave

to be taken at a disadvantage,

were placed quickly under arms, and

marched down

marquee tent we had con-

to a large

structed fifty yards

Ngalyeraa and

httle

away from

his party

palisaded camp.

the

had already arrived, but our

party were placed in skirmishing order about twenty

yards away from them in a crescent from between the

and the path which

tent

my

;

I

had

also

double-barrel smooth-bore with me, and advancing

my gun

a few paces forward with left

Kintamo

led to

hand, muzzle downwards, peace or war

is it

guns "

to

?

What

in the hollow of

I said,

'

Speak, Ngalyeina

my camp ?

looking for a

who had

moment

also followed

gun was

in

my

'

my

"

Ay,

is

gun away, and

loaded, instantly threw his

my

kill

me, Bula Matari

Yes, you are strong

who

'

the

face, in

Ay,

!

—strong

!

kill

me,

Kill

me

my see,

;

breast.'

my gun

to

this appeal.

one of the escort, and went up to

taking hold of his hands, "

men,

movements, though not one

Ngalyema had conquered me by

gave

my

and crying out

brother.

here

power, and

at the stern faces of

threw himself on the ground, rubbiug his "

;

do you mean by bringing

The poor pagan thought he was

dust,

my

Fear nothing from

lifted

me

;

him

it is

I

hiniy

up, and said

you playing the child

brings this trouble constantly.

AYe made a law

together against the carrying of arms in one another's

THE BBOTHEREOOB

We

village.

SO

many guns

you. to

don't

NOT BBOKEX.

IS

know what you mean by bringing neighbour so close

to see a friendly

have given you numbers of

I

3G7

you that with us there

no

is

fine tbings to

prove

As you brought

fear.

yours to-day for the fourth time to

determined to show you that

to

we were

my

I

was

not sleeping.

If

camp,

we meant war on you, how long do you think it would be before Kintamowas in our power? Tbe Warnbundu come

to see

me

every day

they bring food to

Why

us every day. "

sell,

and

;

they do not bring arms

their

men

cannot you do the same

But poor Ngalyema was

was nearly breathless with

that he scarcely

knew what he was saying

must have been a large

his fears

his emotion,

and he

yet his people in

;

the grass took the precaution to rouse there

'

?

by

excited

so

;

working witli

are

all

force at

Kintamo, and

hand

they dare not, however, as Ngalyema and

advance

;

all

his chiefs

were surrounded. " I kept

murmuring

pleasant words to

inspire confidence in him, wJiich tained,

and while fondly patting

further to

men men

him

that, if

he did not

Ngalyema

to

by-and-bye he ob-

hand

his

I

explained

like the sight of

my

with guns in their hands, he must not bring armed with him on his

visit.

'

My

place,'

I

said,

'

is

simply a market-place for everybody to meet in safety,

and

it

was not the custom anywhere

to carry

guns

to

the public market.' " I then turned to the goods he had brought, and said,

you

'

!

Ah,

I see

you mean

to return the things I

Well, count them out

;

gave

our brotherhood will then

issi. Dec. 7. Li-opoi.!-

THE COXGO.

368 i88h

My

be ended.

people shall not cross the stream to

Dec Leopold-

go

Tille.

to Kintarao,

and your people must not

my

visit

.,,

villa£:e. '• '

Xo, no,

Xgalyema anxiously

cried

no,'

brotherhood cannot be broken I will take these

see

any of

my

me

back with

" is

'

for

one.

and, in future, if

you

is

people in your village, with a weapon

him

in his hand, seize him, bind

pay dearly

;

our

'

now

our blood

;

;

and he

tight,

shall

it.'

Ah-ah-h,' cried everybody present.

kept, there will never be

any

law

If that

'

trouble.'

" This ended this troublous day.

"Xow I am bound of mine

;

first,

that,

to teach this intractable brother

although

my

brother, he must not

He

expect several bales for nothing.

king of no

is

country, he can give no privileges nor concessions is

simply a broker in ivory, or what

man, from the Bateke' country. him, and

shall

lie

have decent

is

I will

gifts,

he

;

called a middlestill

be kind to

but I must draw the

line at bales.

" Second, that though sive people,

well

and

we

no harm

will do

abl^o punish is

may have "

any body, we are

weapons during a

to

visit

when he has

well-acquired these lessons

my rude pupil. The En Avant made

others to give

December

to-day,

inoffen-

not permissible.

" Probably I

to

and

violence.

" Third, that carrying

friends

are very quiet

7th.

—

a

trial

trip

and the By-yauzi and Bateke who are living

Kintamo

lined the banks

by many hundreds.

at

I did not

PROPOSED PALAVER.

know

until to-day

what

369

a populous place

Kintamo

There are probably 5000 people of various tribes in Therefore there

settlement.

more reason

is

severing in the effort to teach

Xgalyema

is.

this

for per-

his lessons

before I leave for up-river. " TTe are

working hard on the

terrace,

which must

be of considerable length and breadth before

we

are

able to begin building. "

December

8th.

—Ngalyema, mortified

after the scene

of yesterday, no sooner returned to his village than he

recovered his usual loud bluster. son to

Lema and Kimbangu,

He

despatched his

requesting

He

tance to drive us out of the country.

Kiuswangi,

and Makoko's town,

means "

to help him.

mischief. 9th.

—No

visits

from any one to-day ex-

cepting a young native, wlio informed us that

has threatened to

"

chiefs

and sent me warning that Xgalyema

refused,

December

sell to

assis-

also asked

Kimpe, and Kimfila, \Yambundu

living between us

They have

their

Xgalyema

any one caught carrying food

kill

to

Bula Matari's people.

Makoko has

that he himself

sent a messenger to

tell

^-alyema

the cause of the trouble, because of

is

his jealousy of the white

man, and

to advise

him

to

leave Bula Matari alone.

"December 10th.

— Makoko's messenger arrived, after

conveying his

chief's

he intends to

call

and

visit

Kintamo

should be VOL.

1.

message to Xgalyema

all

the

to hold a

Wambundu

to say that

chiefs together,

palaver wherein the trouble

settled. L>

IJ

issi.

Lt-opoid-

THE CONGO.

370

" December .....

1881. l>ec. 11.

Lt'opoid-

rest

;

from labour.

Eela,

Kwa

river,

,

of Kibil)i, an important trader on the

'^"^'if^^

rille.

11 til.— Sunday

me Mfwa

paid

a visit to-day.

at

in

August, when she professed

the poor white man,

man

is

her white '^

Eela

more

December 12th

She

cloth.

her nature

sisters in

artful

is

;

she

knows the

and she accordingly purrs in

rich,

jiresence to extract

commiserate

to

when driven away from Malima by

wicked Gamankono. Mdiite

made her acquaintance

I first

to 22nd.

is

his

very much like

!

— Each day sees us at our

regular work of excavating the terrace from the slope of Le'opold Hill

window-frames,

made a

us,

but

sawing planks

;

doors, steps,

for

tables, stools, shelves,

We

&c.

but

on the trigger.

is it

is

imminent

the

;

No

pay no heed

I

to

them.

the part of a schoolmaster.

I

My

'

Every-

outbreak has

position

rumours of wars and councils

;

have

road from the terrace as far as Kins-

fine

finger

occurred, delicate

to collect the trees for

Ngalyema observes a distant attitude.

wangi's.

body's'

making roads

purposes

building

also

;

is

very

wars reach

for

am just now

acting

pupil's sulky

moods

must not deter me from pursuing what

my

conscience

approves. "

Two

peared.

days ago a

To-day another

or deserted. '"'

man is

of

mine mysteriously disap-

reported absent

—

lost, killed,

I strongly suspect Ngalyema.

December 23rd.

— Konko, an important chief and a

great ivory trader owning a district nearly

midway

tween Kintamo and the Inkissi River, paid me a to-day, acting as

spokesman

for our friends

be-

visit

Makoko

KONKO S ABRIVAL.

He

and Ngalyema. lictween

171

said that lie wished to

Ngalyema and Bula Matari, and

make peace that

two of

men were prisoners in Ngalyema's hands " Konko was told to cut his story short, as he had He was asked to go back to told too much already. Xgalyema, and bring the men by noon, otherwise I ray

should go myself to fetch them.

TYPES OF OUB EMPLOYKS.

"

Konko

yema

returned, and at noon brought back Ngal-

liimself

by

liim with

liis

gardens.

and

tlie

two prisoners, who were charged

having been detected steab'ng cassava I

did not press the matter, as the storj^

A

as likely to be true as not.

of £15, a silk shirt wortli

vahio

of

eight

guineas

in

in

was

velvet cloak of the value

£3, a private

rug of the

London, were given to 2

IJ

2

issi.

Leopoid-

TEE CONGO.

372 1881.

Leopold-

Ngalyema, nor was Konko permitted

to deiDart without

substantial proofs of my wish to be considered his friend,

"

December

—The

great palaver took place to-

Ngalyema, Makabi, Mubi, Ganchu, Ngako, and

day.

Kintamo

Enjeli of iila,

24th.

Kinswangi, Kimpe, Ganchu, Kim-

;

and Ngalyema, sub-chiefs of the

Wambundu

Konko, Makoko of Lema, accompanied by 134 of followers,

their

being unarmed, were present.

all

meeting was to

Wambundu

that

Ngalyema

to sell the country to

me, as he

satisfy the

had not attempted

This

had been accused of doing by common

report.

" Ngalyema, with that methodical accuracy for which these natives are distinguished, incidents attending his

first

recoimted

first

all

the

acquaintance with me, and

then commenced the relation, with tolerable

fairness, of

the events of the last few days. " I then

was requested

to give

my

met Ngalyema years ago, and how

him

at

Mfwa

;

version of I

how

I

had again met

me to believe that he Kintamo how I had asked him

how he had

had a country called

led

;

to be allowed to live with

him

;

how,

finally,

he had

declined as his friends and neighbours were unwilling

how

I at last

consent

me

came

of the

to ^lakoko,

other

and Makoko, with the

Wambundu

the country between

chiefs,

had given

Kintamo and the

cataract,

how Ngalyema had made me presents of food, and I had reciprocated with many gifts, but that the gifts, though many and rich, were and

far

back inland

;

not for the country but to secure his friendship. "

The Wambundu

chiefs

then spoke,

and

finally

NOISY BEJOICING.

Makoko

of

Lema, father-in-Jaw of Ngalyema, chosen

umpire in the palaver, said

Ngalyema and

of

373

:

'

have heard the story

I

have heard what Bula Matari

I

has said.

Let Bula Matari make the sign, and clear

Ngalyema

of the crime he has been charged with

Wambundu,

the

hj

otherwise there can be neither friend-

ship nor peace.' " Dualla, at a sign

from me, drew a piece of pipe-clay,

and marked a broad white band, running from the

arm

wrist to the shoulder along each

sign to all

men

all

Ngalyema

of

as a

present that he was guiltless, at which

the people shrieked with joy and surprise that Bula

Matari

knew

the custom of the Bateke."

(Cunning Konko had imparted the

secret previous

to the meeting.)

" It

ended

is

cried

Makoko

much

as

you

it

;

of Lema.

like

;

now your

of us are

is

ended

—the

trouble

began

that

the country

is

free

and open, and

in that village

that

we

when such a first

results of the palaver.

it

to celebrate the

Ngalyema expended,

seven ten-pound kegs of powder ;

was

;

thought

But our

a mutual massacre had commenced.

kegs

all

friends."

messengers were informed that

five

!"

" Build, build, everywhere as

" All shortly after retired to Kintamo, fusillade

ended

is

Makoko

it is

of

said,

Lema,

Ngamberengi, on behalf of the Wambundu,

three kegs. "

December

25th.^

— Sunday,

and

Desirous of celebrating this day by uiial)lc

througli

poverty of material

Christmas gifts,

to

Bay.

but being

make much

issi. Dec. 24. L^opoi,^. ville.

THE CONGO.

374 1881. Dec. 25,

Ltopoid-

parade, I gave 500 cheroots, one bottle of brandy, and

one bottle of sherry to the Europeans, and to each

member "

of the coloured force four yards of cloth.

December 26th.

— Began

wire, at the following prices

bartering cloth for brass :

" 1 piece of unbleached domestic, 24 yards 1

fathom of red

1 piece of

„

1

savelist

common

.

.

striped cloth, 22 yards

„ superior striped, 26 yards

„

"

The

1 rivet

„

„

„

14

.

1 knife, white-handled table, 3 rivets 1

14 brass rods (5 to the

.

.

lb.)

„

10 .

15

.

6

„

3

„

.

„

brass rods are the currency of the country,

beginning from lyumbi ridge, and ending at the upper

They

extremity of Uyanzi.

six inches long, but they

in

many

instances

is

are to-day about twenty-

may be

shorter, as the clipping

Three of these brass

excessive.

rods purchase two five-pound loaves of cassava bread.

A five-pound loaf men.

Any

a two-days' ration for the coloured

is

work

paid

for,

keep most of the people in dried

fish,

nuts,

"

and

extra

is

to

bananas, ground-

palm-oil.

December 28th.

— Heard

that another party of white

by the Mfwa

several rifle-shots on the

Ngalyema's people inform me to-night

north bank.

men

has been driven

away

natives.

" December 29th. that

which serves

we began

—The

to plant the

terrace

is

so far

advanced

heavy timber-frames of the

block-house I intend to raise here for defence and shelter.

The heavy timbers foot

in diameter.

are solid logs thirty feet long, one

AVe have already collected about

eighty of these large logs, and duly prepared them.

KINSHASSA.

The

''

,

visits of the natives are

.

,

There

375

frequent and amicable,

.

.

no question pending between us and any

is

The health of everybody

natives.

at this season with all those

is

excellent, as usual

who have employment

for

mind and body. " December 30th.

men " this

to

—Despatched

a caravan of fifteen

Manyanga.

January

New

1882.

1st,

Year's day.

tamo shore

—

I paid a

Large crowds

to see the first steamer

At Kinshassa

Kinshassa

visit to

collected at

Kin-

on the Upper Congo.

a similar crowd appeared

;

but instead of

the angry demonstration that drove the missionaries in

1880 away, our reception was most

meen was

there, of course,

which he never seems chief,

is

a

seventy-five years

burly stout

man

when he

Nchuvila, the

man

it is

dies, as chief of

sons, twenty-five

Bankwa

tri-coloui',

is

a

said, will

Kinshassa.

and tv/enty years

will inherit the chieftainship.

spent the visit sociably and mannerly.

stay at

about

His nephew, Bankwa,

old.

Though he has two

We

to part from.

of about thirty, who,

succeed Nchu\'ila,

old respectively,

with his bright

thin bronze-coloured old

tall,

Mala-

flattering.

Our

long-

Kintamo without rupture deprived ^lalameen

of the power of slandering us by his absurd reports of

our cannibalism.

Kinshassa and Kintamo have

still

a feud between them, though latterly they have not

ventured into exchanging musket-shots. " Jan. 10th. complete.

— Tlie frame of the block house

is

ahnost

"We have consumed 125 noble trees

—teak,

red-wood, and plane

;

2582 small

trees

4 inches diameter,

issi. Dec. 29. L,;opoki-

THE CONGO,

376 1882. Jan. 10.

Leopoldvillc

15 feet lono-; 18,900 lbs. of 21,15G rods 8 feet lonoO n 1 long grass. The house is to be 2^ feet above the floor ;

'

'

^

of the terrace, which in breadth.

We

is

shall

,

T

now 100 yards in length by 50 now begin to clay it. As the

central section of the house will have walls 22 feet

high, wing-walls 15 feet high and 2 feet thick,

300 yards

it

will

being

be a slow work, as the clay

is

the landing-place, and

absolutely necessary that

is

it

off,

the Europeans and small garrison should be above

all

In the event of a rupture with Ngalyema in

anxiety.

my

at

absence, they would be able to retire within an

impregnable house. trust

would be very imprudent

It

to

any man's professions of friendship, whether he

Show any man

be white or black.

only on his goodwill,

that

you depend

and your position

is

a very

insecure one. " January 12th.

yanga

— Our

caravan returned from Man-

by which we have news that the

to-day,

Yivi station has suddenly

left for

Europe

!

chief of

This person

having been engaged by me, by formal contract, has not thought

it

necessary to inform

However, Lindner,

tion.

sufiScient person,

and

me

this

the

news of

me

his successor

of his inten-

pro

tern.,

his first correspondence

sudden change of

is

a

conveys

chiefs at

my

princi^Dal base.

"

me

A

better piece of news, however,

of the arrival of one hundred

Expedition, and

is

that informing

new

recruits for the

the arrival of thirty other

men

to

accompany a Dr. Peschuel-Loeche on an exploring tour in the

Loango

district.

NEW "Janiiaiy

19th.

RECRUITS.

—Thirty-two

377 the

of"

new

recruits

have arrived, accompanied by a woman, who, being the only female in the expedition, has created a great interest in the

minds of the

natives.

She

is

very neat, and

can boast of youth and superior charms to any that I

We

have seen on the Congo.

are all rather proud of

her.

"

January

21st.

—

I

despatched an

officer

and a small

expedition along the south bank to Manyanga, prelimi-

nary to forming a regular transport service.

"January 22nd.

—The

block-house, terrace, garden,

and native village are well advanced

We

this last

have now 153 coloured people at

station, out of

w^iom eighteen are detailed three times a w^eek cure rations for such a large number.

week.

to pro-

Nineteen of the

others are tent-boys, body-servants, sick people, (tc, so that there are really only 117

" January 26th. natives of

—All

last

men

at active work.

night up to 9 a.m. to-day the

Kintamo have been celebrating a marriage.

Singing, dancing, shouting, and firing guns have been

The Wambundu

going on incessantly.

koko pay

me

regular

Ngalyema has

visits.

and Ma-

chiefs

also fre-

quently condescended to visit me, but the screw gently pressed to reduce

Some

him

to order

is

being

and manageability.

of these days I hope to be proud of

The weather has been extremely hot

my

pupil.

the last three or

four days.

"January yanga.

27tli.

All well

" February 3rd.

— Caravan brought goods from Mandown

river.

—Bwabwa Njali

paid

me

a visit to-

1882.

Leopold-

THE CONGO.

378 1882 Ltopoid-

The

day, and I have enjoyed a triumpli over him.

time I noticed him in

my

diary he was indebted to

last

me

ville.

fathom of red saveUst which he had received as a

for ten

loan.

He was

next heard of as levelling muskets at

own

people wlio had gone to his village by his

Imagining that we had forgotten

tion.

came

episode, he

some fowls.

to

invita-

this trifling

day with a goat and a black pig and

I received

handing them over

him very

graciously, and, after

to the goatherds^ I smilingly re-

minded him that he was

me

in debt to

fathom of blanket cloth received

for the

ten

August, and

last

w^ould therefore be greatly obliged to

A

my

him

for

1

them.

quick flash of guilt stole over his features, but he

promised that he would repay " February

4th.

me

—Bwabwa

to-morrow.

Njali

brought

me 200

loaves of bread to-day, which included principal and interest.

received,

As

bread

is

a necessity at this station

my

and a noble present relieved

it

was

friend of all

fear of consequences.

" February

.5

th.

—

I perceive

from

my

last

accounts

from down-river that we are progressing exceedingly well, despite

drawbacks caused by

The following " Vivi

.

Isangila

Manyanga

table will explain .

.

.

Europeans 5

.

faithless

Europeans.

:

Coloured people

74

„

1

„

,,

12

„

15

36

„

„

„

„

„

12

Stanley Pool Station

„

„

„

153

Exploring expedition

„

En

„

.

Ferry of Kinsende

.

.

14

route with caravan

1

Total 15

287 „

„

22

„

„

78 387

2IALINGERING.

One five

of

my

079

Europeans has been malingering

for

weeks, while the value of him since he joined us

about eight months ago has been absolutely

I

nil.

have

spoken to him in the most paternal manner several hours altogether, endeavouring to encourage him, but perceive that

it is

It will

useless.

it

"

will

probably end in his

However, the jDrompting

sudden dismissal some day. of

I

emanate from him.

February 25th.

— Our

house

is

broke up our camp, each European moving to his

Compared

chamber.

There are

to

our tent

we own

completed and

life

it

palatial.

is

chambers, a dining-saloon, and a formi-

five

dably strong magazine.

Shelves

are

made

also

to

exhibit our stock of goods. " February 27th.

— TTork

begins on the Steamer's

Cove, so that at high water steamers and boats, besides a

flotilla

all

of canoes,

may

enter into harbour, safe from

danger of flood and marauders. "

March 2nd.

to-day,

and

— Caravan with

also another

steel

whale-boat arrived

from Manyanga with goods.

finished and roads swept — work on large garden. "March 4th. "We are

The native

village

clean.

is

also at

Wadi Rehani's company clear company

builds goat

the ground for

and fowl houses.

proceeding most satisfactorily, though gious amount of labour yet before me.

Susi's

it.

Everything

is

see a prodi-

I I

am

anxious

about news of the exploring party. "

March

magazine. natives.

5th.

—The goods are now on exhibition

The barred windows

are crowded

in tlie

by curious

Native imagination, fired by the brilliant

i8S2. Feb.

Leopoid-

1882. ilarch '). Leopold-

380

THE CONGO.

display of doths of

all

colours, silks, satins, ribbons,

fancy jewellery, cutlery,

joottery, crockery, glass

ware,

guns, swords, machettes, threads, bobbins, ribbons, gold

and

my

silver laces, &c., &c., will report that

exceeds calculation

Who

!

wealth

would have expected such

a result as this three months ago

?

Over £500 worth

of goods were sold by us before night.

"March

— Sale continued

6th.

Ngalyema went

to

visit

to-day, brought £300.

Gamankono

Malima on

of

account of !Mwana Mundele, his nephew,

who was

on a chai^ge of witchcraft.

Being a

arrested there

person of importance, seven slaves and a tusk of ivory

were given

hush the charge.

to

man he would have been "

March

during a

7th.

been a poor

burnt.

— Xgako,

visit to

Had he

our old chief of Kintamo,

Kinshassa, has been assaulted there

by Bankwa's people. "

March

Kintamo

8th.

to

— A grand

council of

avenge the indignity

war was held

The

Ngako.

to

at

By-yanzi stoj)ped the preparations for war, because

I

had not received the news, and no one knew what Bula Matari might do in case of a war near his country. " This

is

the second time that our presence in this

vicinity has prevented a sanguinary native conflict.

"

March

9th.

—The

first

as a test of the price. six handkerchiefs,

have

to

ivory v/as purchased to-day

The weight was

which cost in England

pay something

for learning.

our coloured force at present cost of rations for

2 lbs.

whom

is

£1

is

1,9.

3(i.

I

paid

We

The number of

171 men, the money

12s. %d. per day.

THRIVING GARDENS. " Marcli lOtli.

— Ganchn,

who

first

381

met us

.

sang the praises of Jsgalyema.

last year,

him

to

and powerful

infinite

charms which render him

virtues.

invisible.

He He

Mfwa

at

1882.

March

attributes

possesses

More than once

during some of the petty wars of their region he has suddenly appeared in the midst of his foes with his short sword destroying

knew by whom

one

Ngako, Ganchu's demonstrated

it

men

like a

demon

before any

Aged

the fatal blows were dealt.

father, enjoys also this faculty,

only a short time ago at Mfwa, for

assaulted and seized

and

when

by two of Bankwa's people he

sud-

denly disappeared, leaving his torn robe in their hands " March 15th.

— Indian

A

lettuce are thriving

Spanisli pepper, 230tatoes,

Onions we look

famoush^

White beans do not

vain.

few peas have begun

the parsley, radish, and

sprout up in the latter;

to

thrive.

for in

Melons, pumpkins,

Sweet

cucumbers, are doing well.

being native, are spreading vigorously.

are such tyros in gardening that these are

riments.

The season

begun

October, I fear.

in

is

too late.

something from our maiden season, bugs,

and

I

corn planted in the hollows

below the European gardens.

insects.

We

We

mere expe-

should have

However, we

shall

learn

efforts as to quality of soil,

A

pine-apple plat has also

been planted, and a few dozen bananas. "

March 22nd.

with news. tlio

Iioi/al,

— Caravan

from

Manyanga

arrived

Hardworking Flamini, the engineer of has suffered an accident, and gone

and another European has relieved us of

The exploring party

home

;

his presence.

declares the road to

10.

Leopoid-

Manyanga

THE CONGO.

382 1882.

March

bv south bank

22.

Lc^opoid-

and

free

tbe chief expects

safe, thouo^h

'

trouble

some day

a

at

seventy-eight recruits

place

on

Isangila

left

„ Lutete's.

called

The

February, yet up to the 14th of March there

news of them, the European

of

lOth

the

is

no

having resigned

in charge

and gone home, leaving the people in the bush. "

March

23rd.

— Sent

men

a detachment of first-class

to search for the lost relief party.

"March

26th.

— Caravan

Am told by

from Europe.

letters

to expect Lieut. ofiScers Xilis

me

" ]\rnrch 27th.

made "

;

They have made overtures

March

Kintamo people have become

me.

30th.

Xgalyema and

—A

Enjeli are furious.

formal accusation was sent to

his son

Of having locked me up

Enjeli for five in

my room

window

a

first offence,

it

would be

for

2nd,

Of having,

shaken a spear at

terrace, loudly saying,

me

to kill

got. 4th,

and

see

what

Some day my

'

key

after passing

me

defiantly

how

See

Bula Matari now.'

having cried out the same day, T\-indows

'

:

command

to

that he be arrested and the

taken from his person.

on the public

ofiences

and abscond-

me

ing with the key, which had caused

over the

it.

they have heard that Kinshassa people have

offers to

through

chiefs

have promised to think of

I

—The

Xgalyema against 1st,

Hannsens,

also Capt.

and Grang. Yisited Kinshassa. The

to build there.

jealous

Comite of Association

Yalcke out again ;

were uncommonly amiable. to

the station with

entered

easy

3rd,

Of

Look through the

nice things Bula Matari has

father

will

carry

Of having hidden himself behind

all

the

away.' staircase

IVORY TEANSACTIONS. upper storey to

leading' to the

38.-

what

listen

say at a palaver with By-yaiizi strangers 5th,

river.

Of having

the meat of a shot

knew how few

my

now,

from np-

most

said to his brothers, after

had gone out

of the people

had to

I

hippo.,

the station to carry

to

Oh,

'

Ngalyema only

if

people Bula Matari has got with

him

who

seize

father could kill all

upon everything

A

!

'

and

are here

warning that any other such

dangerous speeches uttered in the hearing of any in the station

would be instantly followed by

sound flogging, and a heavy

"March

31st.

—The

man

arrest,

fine.

now

Kinshassa people

resort to

the station for barter. " April 2nd.

—The

Kintamo

me

and impressed on

chiefs paid

the necessity of

me

a visit,

making blood

brotherhood with Ngalyema, as security against the fears they entertained that evil to

day

should do

I

" April 7th.

—The

visit the

following It is

to

pay 9.s.

:

per

*'

To

1 ivory 48i lbs. at

Purchased

for

9.s'.

per

lb.

in

to

£

s.

4P.

17

16

1

(I.

lb. in

2438 brass rods, value in England Diifercnco for profit

we know

test, as

—

England for

some

in ivory

upper river before we are able

1 ivory tusk, -weight 97i lbs. at

Purchased

that

transactions

not quite a fair

anything about what we ought "To

Kinshassa

to

so.

took place to-day.

must

visits

The promise was given

them.

boded

my

,

M

and carriage £27 13 10

England

.

.

1864 brass rods, value in England

Difference for freight, insurance

and

.

profit

21 16

G

7 10

4

£14

1

2

1882.

March 3 Lcopold^'''^®-

TEE coy GO.

38-1

1882.

Leopold-

" These. brass rods, after being paid to the ivory-seilers,

were then exchanged for

guns,

cotton-goods,

silks,

glass-ware, crockery, powder, red handkerchiefs, &c.,

and good

in which, if for silks

was

another profit

would never have paid us

It

possible.

cloths,

any large purchases, as our mission different purpose than trade

;

is

to

for a

efifect

totally

but, in endeavouring to

find the real truth about the state of trade here,

must put

it

at all these trading villages at

abundant

is

then that ivory

I find

to a practical test.

Pool; that, while the By-yanzi

sell

we

Stanley

the ivory to the

Bateke' of Stanley Pool at the average of eleven brass rods, or Is.

to the

4c?.,

pound, the Bateke have been

induced, after eighteen experiments, to

and

4c?.

3-5-.

3>-.

5c/.

per pound.

to purchase more, the

If

to exhaust the stock of goods that a

day could carry people

besides which

;

who wish

we were

Bateke possess

to sell rubber,

''Durino; our Ions: residence

us at

sell it to

willing

suflBcient

ivory

hundred men per

we are pestered with camwood powder, &c. here we have become

intimate with the people's wants.

AVe note the eager,

hungry look of the strangers who come from hundreds of miles to visit us in the hope that

something from them.

TThen we

we would purchase tell

them

that

we

do not want ivory, or rubber, or camwood powder, or cola nuts, or gums,

sorrowfully,

'

Well, what

and we will get cloth,

they appear to despair, and ask

it

is

for you.

it

you do want

AVe came here

and now we come here with

will not

buy them.

?

Tell us,

to get

thina's to sell

"What kind of a white

some vou

man are you?'

BROTHERHOOD WITH NGALYEMA. *'

April

8th.

here

leave

— Recruits

now every

arrived

five

an

Caravans

to-day.

days for Manyanga, and

goods arrive as often regularly. for the arrival of

385

I

am

only waiting

officer to start up-river to establish

another station.

"April

9th.

— Brotherhood with Ngalyema

TVe crossed arms

formed.

each arm

;

some

salt

;

was per-

an incision was made

in

was placed on the wound, and

then a mutual rubbing took place, while the great fetish

man

number

of

of curses on

Susi, not to be visit

Kintamo pronounced an inconceivable

my

head

if

outdone by him,

ever I proved

false.

gods to

solicited the

unheard-of atrocious vengeances on Ngalj^ema

he dared make the slightest

breach in

the

if

sacred

brotherhood which made him and Bula Matari one

and

indivisible for ever."

vor>.

r.

2

c

1882.

Leopold-

THE coy GO.

')S6

CHAPTER XX. UP THE COXGO TO LAKE LEOPOLD

— —

IL

the new station " Leopoldville " " The middleman," " lingster," or " ivory trader," and his influence Docility of Ngalyema Descrip-

Xaming

tion of Leopoldville

—Fine

view from Leopold Hill

— — Companionable

—

—

The pomp of death A rich but neglected land what might be made of it Departure of the first Upper Congo expedition Bamu Island Wild animals ^Stanley Pool Slow progress— The Comparison with fierceness of crocodiles Impressions of scenery Scotch scenery ^Width and sonndings of the Congo— Yolume of the neighbours

—

—

— —

:

—

—

—

—

—Jottings for future pilots—Mswata—Xew — Gandelay's favourable decision — Giral, a French quartermaster — EetumtoKintamo; a cordial greeting—SusuMpembe,

river with its tributaries

acquaintances

the " White Chicken "—The 1882. April 9.

Leopoldville.

By

general consent the .

poldvillej

Kwa

river.

new

station

was named Leo-

.

in

honour of

the munificent

and Eoja]

Founder of the "Association Internationale du Congo." "We will now leave that system of stringing together daily incidents in

manner observed

th.e

in the preceding

chapter, and betake ourselves soberly to our narrative.

The diary form has

the merit of presenting the ups

and downs of our long stay

more convincing and

at Leopoldville in a far

life-like

manner than could be

done by the happiest style of narrative; the

implicit

belief in our veracity,

for,

despite

which our polite

readers would be willing to profess, I fear there would

"

TEE MIDDLEMAN."

manv minds

be a lurkino; suspicion in

still

387 that there

must have been more play than work in the building of Le'opoldville.

Ngaljema's

temper

peculiar

also

more

required

than a few phrases before an exact representation of the

man

see

what an African

trader,"

The

could be given.

is

mav now

dullest reader

middleman," " lingster," " ivory-

'•

in disposition

and nature.

On

West

the

Coast of Africa he has been one of the strongest im-

pediments to

TTho that has been on the

civilisation.

Niger does not know him trader in the

oil

rivers

beaten African shore as his greatest

Where

?

— or

is

a

little

— who has

We

as has been seen.

all

man

this class

To be

?

sure, Stanley

;

but that

is

because the impass-

his approach to the

Upper

found in Ngalyema the rearguard of the

Congo middlemen

this

not regarded

too far in the interior to have been an

Congo canon forbade

Congo.

West Coast

enemy, and the most inveterate opponent

obstacle to the trader able

that

near any part of the surf-

to his progress into the interior

Pool

is

— and

trouble enough he gave us,

It cost

more money

to

overcome

peacefully than the aggregate expenditure on

the chiefs of the country,

who

possessed something

substantial to give us in exchange.

landless slave owner,

Ngalyema was

and had nothing but

his

a

un-

founded pretensions, his unreal claims, his loud bully's voice,

mail.

hint

and an insatiable appetite

Through long

now and

for the dues of black-

and a timely

patience, liberality,

then, that he

might be sorry

beyond certain bounds, he was

at last fairly

for

won

2 c 2

going

to

good

is82. April 9.

Leopoid-

THE CONGO.

388 1882. April 9.

beliaviour,

Leopold-

I

and

to stout

and friendly

alliance,

by

wliicli

eventually succeeded in getting other obstreperous

ville

chiefs, notably those of Kinshassa,

and Mikunga,

to confederate

with

Lema, Kimbangu,

me

for the preserva-

tion of the peace on the south shore of Stanley Pool.

My

may

well be believed,

—the perpetual

fluctuations from

content was extreme, as

when

the annoyances

bilious

ill-humour to fawning friendliness,

from the

peevish intermittent temper, to a few hours of sun-

shiny moods of feeling

—were

finally substituted

by

the steady glow of good-nature, and I had leisure to

prepare for

my

long-deferred journey up-river to seek

other fields of adventure. Le'opoldville, with

manding from to

its

one-storey block-house com-

windows

its

all

approaches, impregnable

musket-armed natives, and proof against

—because underneath

pite its grass roof

there fire

was an earth roof two

might burn

refug-e

—the

—flanked

The

on which the

— ajDpeared a safe terrace

was

lono-

native village was formed of one broad

by a row of clay huts on

either side.

Starting from a point thirty feet below the house,

des-

that grass roof

feet thick,

out harmlessly

should trouble arise.

and wide street

itself

fire,

and sloping

gentlj?-

down

block-

to the landing-place,

gardens of young bananas and vegetables extended

beyond these huts. abundant.

The

Water was handy

agricultural

front of his residence,

fuel

was

TTambundu were our

landlords as well as our good friends. in

;

In a basin right

which time and industry

might render pretty, the work of the station chief lay

VIEW FROM LEOPOLD before him.

On

HILL.

:J89

Sundays, the Europeans might find

pleasant exercise in promenading along a smooth road

Leopold

to

Hill,

always obtainable.

whence a view worth seeing was

From

coign of vantage the great

its

leaping cataract of Kintamo, at a moderate distance off,

could be seen.

The

circular basin of Stanley Pool,

.KDS-ETE VIEW OF STANLEY

rimmed with mountains and

cliffs

POOl,,

and

isolated

mounts,

could be admired, as well as the great island of

and

its

liaze,

tiny sister

or

lying

islets,

silent

threatened to deluge it

with

tlie

Bamu,

slumbering in sunshine and

under the black clouds which it

all

with rain, and

darkness of the coming tempest.

shroud If the

ib82. April 9.

Leopoid-

THE CONGO.

o90 1882. April 9.

Leopoldville.

has already

rain

the

fallen ,

,

and

before,

niorht "^

the

.

opalesque skies give promise that the day will be bright and clear,

the

encircling ring of hill

Pool and

the

glories of

and mountain, with

their

iis

wooded

Both the mountains, and the

slopes, are unequalled.

wide plains they enclose,

islands,

and lake-like river

emerge through the bright atmosphere into view, with a clearness of detail and beauty of outline almost new,

may have

although you

before gazed at every feature

Nor is the view inland or westward to be despised. To be delighted, however, I could confidently recommend an ascent in the scene until nearly

sated.

some structure on the

to the top of

hill,

from wlience

embraces an uninterrupted view over the

the vision

trees in the

One

immediate neighbourhood.

will be

astonished at the enlarged breadth and improved beauty in the wilderness of hill-cones,

and tabular heights, and

winding wood-clothed

ridges, or sinuous

and

of

irregular

There

is

cones of

To our

waves

land

lyumbi's massive

which

depressions,

exposed.

are

and bald

form

top,

the

Nsangu and Kinduta's square-edged mount.

left

advances

Lama

Lankori's dark forest ridge,

while Usansi's frowning mountain liue

is

to

our right.

Across the Congo expands in rich brown colours the grassy plains of Mundele Masuna

;

and right

the woods gather thicker, shrouding

and Gampa's

villages.

Njali's

From under the depths of

the dark green leafage shoots the flood of the

Bennett in two silver

oj^posite

Bwabwa

sheets, while a

Gordon

long broad band

of sun-lighted water recedes further and further into

COMPANIONABLE NEIGHBOURS.

391

in

Many and many the stony heart of the hilly world. M a time had I stood alone, dreamily gazmg at the really •

view

interesting

from the summit of Leopold

visible

without once suspecting that there was such a

Hill,

luxury within reach, until one day I mounted the roof of the Sanatorium, and then I

knew what

a pleasure

had been hitherto unknown. That broad low plain

—from

Mabengu mountain

foot of

shore of the Pool,

Even now

beauty.

yet there

is

only the

spicuously in view

me

grass

the rest

;

forms the western

full

survey the

I

is

huts of Kintamo con-

But

we

that

it

see

is

mind, the

to

like looking at the

we

but innocence, and

my

reverts

promising child

of a

intelligent face

nought in

It

only a wilder-

literally

always

view,

possibilities of the future. fair

promise and

of

ness of grass, shrubs, and tree-foliage.

when

south, to the

almost idyllic in appearance,

is

it

— which

to

is

Kintamo

;

we

find

fondly imagine

germs of a future great genius

the

perhaps a legislator, a savant, a warrior^ or a poet.

Supposing the rich watered

as

cultivated,

How In it

all

it

it

how

it

soil

of that

plain,

by many running streams, were would reward the husbandman

the Mississippi valley there it

lies

is

no

a neglected waste.

soil to

And

slumbrous appearance

If the station-chief

and

!

equal

same

presents to-day. his

comrades are sociable

may form warm friendships with some of There in that human hive at Kintamo.

beings, they the people

it

!

perhaps

for generations yet the prospect will possess the idle

well-

would be bursting with fulness and plenty

yet here

;

is

fertile

1882. April 9.

Leopold-

THE CONGO.

392 1882. April 9.

human

are

beings here, as elsewhere, amenable to the .

Leopold-

softer emotions,

though the principal chief

Old Ngako

wrong-minded person.

eccentric

and amusing, and requires but

lous

who

The ancient

agreeable old man, and

Makabi

study

he

;

fifer

a chatty,

is

by no means churlishly

a character also

is

an acute

is

is

fellow, neat

to

hamlet

lives recluse-like in his lone

halfway between Leopold ville and Kintamo,

clined.

garru-

is

prompting

little

spin out tales of adventure and war.

of Ngalyema,

such an

is

in-

deserving closer person, fully

in

possessed of the authority of a chief, and lord over

a

number

large

of

pretty wives

and

bright-eyed

Even Ngalyema himself at home is a better man than Ngalyema abroad he has a miscellaneous children.

;

treasure which he has no objection to

you with equanimity of what

tell

he

dead

is

;

how he

will

will

show

he will

;

happen

^vlien

be swathed in cottons and

woollens and silks and satins, and, after

many days

of continued fusilading, will be buried in an honoured

Indeed, from the pleasure he takes in reciting

grave. this,

all

he seems to you as a person whose

devoted to prepare for the great

The part of dying pain

;

is

have given him,

veyed in

state,

stuffs,

because

involves

it

All

and velvet cloaks that

will adorn his

followed

is

event of death.

but the period after death will be glorious.

those robes, and silken I

hateful,

life

body

as

it

is

con-

by chanting warriors, and

multitudes of female mourners loudly lamenting, while the youths of

all

the surrounding villages will

cessant volleys of musketry for "

Ah,"

says

many days and

Ngalyema, admiringly

fire in-

nights.

shaking

his

A head, " that

Pi

is

ICE BUT NEGLECTED LAND.

what

I call

e-rand,

and worthy of a .

!

king " from which

I

gather that, in his opinion,

life

1882. April 9.

Leopoldville.

does not become a king: 'O half so well as death.

A

five-mile

march across that intervening

of plain between Kinshassa

our Europeans to reflect

which

rounded

guilty

is

and Kintamo may cause

upon the prodigious waste

madcap population by

this

they are sur-

Kintamo

retainers, followers of the nine

it

slaves,

chiefs, abso-

Nay, they are almost starving,

lutely doing nothing.

only one day from

whom

Eight hundred muscular

of.

stretch

and here, round about

at least,

them, are nearly 50,000 square acres of the richest alluvium

it

the world

!

would be possible

At Kinshassa

wart male bodies just as Kindolo,

sitting

any part of

there are some 500

show over

can

places,

industrious

employment

by

their females, or

having their

beautiful chignons or hair top-knots dressed.

they have to despatch squads of

men

immense waste of

solicited, to raise half

fat

earth,

enough

on

exists

virtue,

if

a million tons of rice annually,

and wheat, sugar, yams, sweet corn ad infinitum.

While

miles away, to

hunt up provender for their people, there

ridges,

is

down, while they are being rubbed over with

palm-oil and ochre

this

stal-

Mikunga, Kimbangu,

lazy.

Lema, and other

1500 more, whose most

to find in

potatoes, millet, Indian

The lower

slopes,

too,

of those

which lovingly shield the plain from the cold

sea winds of the

South Atlantic, would permit the

remunerative growth of other spices.

tea, coffee, cocoa,

sago,

and

394

In short,

^^2 Leopold-

THE CONGO. Europeans will only use their

these

if

Sundays in pleasant excursive walks, to study human

ville.

home thoughtful

nature in the vicinity, they will go

may

men, and use

return again to this land to put to good

wisdom they should have

the

gained,

'

and the

kindly social relations created during their peaceful sojourn at Leopoldville.

By

the

19th of April, friendly relations had heen

with

established

and out of the

Le'o-

The caravans marched

poldville all w^as in foir order.

in

Within

our neio-hhours.

all

Goods,

station at regular periods.

provisions, tools, &c., flowed in as they

were wanted,

a flock of goats formed the live-stock, among which

The

there were two or three milch goats. also

numerous

a few hens were

;

were

fowls

hatching,

few

a

furnished fresh eggs, a few tended their young.

work

directed the chief of the station to continue the

of improvement line with, or

house

;

to

a

another store-room in a

build

to

;

few

removed

feet

I

from,

the block-

extend the terrace, to look after his gar-

dening, to increase his stock of goats, and to do

he could towards consolidating our

all

political interests,

as well as promoting the comfort of his people

and

the prosperity of his estate.

At

6 A.M. of the 19 th

Congo

expedition, as follows

En

Avant Whaleboat.

Two

we embarked

.

canoes

Total

.

.

.

.

.

the

first

Upper

:

19 coloured men.

3 whites.

10

,.

„

1

20

„

„

49

,,

„

4

„

„

Freight 62

loa
„

53

„

„

11

„

129

„

CO 00

BAMU ISLAXD AXD STAXLEF The powers of

the

,

towing the two canoes, as the twenty

to the utmost,

paddles,

by

them were

in

395

paddle-steamer were tasked

little

.

men

POOL.

totally unpractised in the use of

and the steersmen gave us an

infinite trouble

knowing on which

their ignorance of

side their

steering paddles should be used.

We crept now

point

along the south shore, rounded the called Kallina in

upward along the

I

J

Kinshassa

the

own

paddle their

canoes, an

cast the canoes

art

which they soon

The steamer occupied nearly an hour

crossing the broad southern

between

district,

men were compelled

and, driven by necessity, the

cquired.

to

an hour, and continued

coming abreast of the town, we

"-mtil, off,

of

coast

clifly

Bamu

5 P.M.

we

arm

Island and the

Bamu

skirted

of the Congo, running

left

From

bank.

Island,

we

side,

thence

and in a cove

opposite the river Xseleh, which issues into the

from the southern

in

Congo

halted to cut fuel, and rest

for the nio'ht.

Bamu

Island

is

about fourteen miles in length, and

occupies the centre of the Pool. of

is

it

low

;

at

On

may a

On

flood.

its interior parts.

more grassy or reedy

extensive sandbanks.

fit

Its south-eastern

flat,

close to

it

shows

which may it is

for native uses

Buffalo, elephant,

it.

it

the northern shore

abundance of timber

be found on

haunt

the southern shore

clay bank, three feet of

be above the highest ;

larger portion

high-water about three-fourths of

may be inundated. many miles of stiff much lower

The

and hippos, extremity

is

which are wide and

During a very low Congo,

all this

is82. April 19.

i^opoid-

THE CONGO.

396 1882. April 19.

part resembles a low sandy plain, where the fishermen .

^

Stanley

lovB to ercct

grass huts to dry their

little

may

a high Congo the steamers

The

the head of the Pool. island

may

skirt

During

fish.

Bamu

right

up

south-eastern part of the

be called the hippopotamus preserve

herds are always numerous here.

be about two

Stanley Pool

flats for their

the

may

animals

subsistence.

a lake-like expansion of the Congo,

is

Bamu and

about 250 square miles in extent, of which the other islands in

Kallina Point

;

Altogether there

hundred of these amphibious

depending upon the reedy

to

it

cover about 42 square miles.

at its lower extremity

is

;

Inga Peak

dominates the entrance to the united river above the

The

Pool.

distance in an air-line, which runs between

the base of Inga

Peak and Kallina

and a half English

miles,

Point,

is

seventeen

the greatest breadth from

shore of southern mainland to shore of northern main-

land

is

Bamu

sixteen English miles.

Island disparts

the river into main branches, each of which, however, contains several

small rocky or

southern branch, which

is

sandy

The

islets.

the navigable one at

all sea-

sons, has a shore-line twenty-four statute miles long,

while the northern

is

only nineteen English miles long.

Nearly one third of the northern shore

by Dover

cliffs

;

the other half

which in one part projects between high ridges.

On

is

in

is

occupied

mainly a low plain, a low grassy valley

the southern shore, however,

the mountainous ridge which has formed the

left

bank

of the river above, recedes from the immediate neigh-

bourhood of the river a few miles above Kimpoko,

ANIMAL leavino- a terrace, or

series

low

LIFE.

397

...

of low

which descend

hills,

into

a

i8S2. -^Pi'il

alluvial plain, of considerable breadth,

-0-

Stanley Pool.

between the river and the base of the mountain ring, terminating about three miles to the south-west of Leopoldville. close

by the

It is

on the verge of

this alluvial plain,

Kimpoko, Mikunga, Kimbangu,

river^ that

and Kintamo, are

Kindolo, Kinshassa,

placed,

and

further inland, near the foot of the mountains, other large villages such as

Lema may

l:)e

found.

The southern branch sweeps by the shore of the mainland with great at

and with destructive

force,

Kimpoko, the high clay bank of which

effect

constantly

is

falling in large masses into the river to be dissolved

and carried below by the current.

into sediment,

A rain-storm began

am.

at 1

and retarding the

until 8 A.M., wetting our fuel,

reedy

flats

of

Bamu, and within

canoes in tow

we made

elevation

Presently the

clothed

steep

woods became

rise

taller,

white-collared

sprang from

a channel between

a

its

with

young

tall

trees.

took a bolder height, the

wherein monkeys flung them-

selves with desperate leaps

the

At two we

and the south shore, which was now

island

steep

in

more had

the whale-boat and

but slow progress.

were well above Kimpoko,

a

forty minutes

With

crossed the south branch.

woody

start

For three hours we continued along the

an hour.

for

of the 20th, continuing

from tree

fish-eagle,

with

perch and winged

to tree,

whence

shrill

scream,

a its

way

across to

the island, and divers and kingfishers darted ahead of the i)anting steamer, whose

strange

noiise

caused

all

THE CONGO.

398 1882. April 20.

animal

life

away from

to skurry

its fearful nei&'libour-

.

Stanley

bood.

It

was amusing

observe tbe

to

effect of

tbe

Pool.

steamer on tbe bippo berds in tbe vicinity, tbe pointed, attentive

ears,

tbe steady

earnest

attention,

sudden disa2:)pearance from tbe borrible noise

and a

distracting

wbereas tbe crocodiles darted witb tbe velocity

;

and directness of a Wbitebead torpedo.

Evidently

tbey were fully determined not to stop until tbey bad tbe

pierced

witb tbeir wedge-like beads

bull

steel

tbrougb and tbrougb

;

but

tbe

creatures

sank wben tbey were about twenty

feet off,

generally

probably

up a sbort distance bebind

to explore tlie keels, rising

no doubt wondering greatly mean-

to pursue us again,

wbile wbat strange animal tbis could be tbat bad no legs to give a crocodile a cbance to bite It

!

was an exceedingly bot day, and tbe current

flowed tbree miles an bour in tbe cbannel. Tbe towing boat and canoes

of tbe

powers of tbe as

it

En

Avant.

was a severe

Added

an

westered, sbot

to tbe bot sun,

intolerable

awning, was tbe beat of tbe boiler trouble, trifling as

may

it

strain

;

on tbe wbicb,

beat under tbe

and besides

tbis

appear in tbese pages, tbe

cramped posture, and tbe most unluxurious materials

—boxes

and bales — on w^bicb we

our discomforts.

At

4.30 p.m.

Point, on tbe soutb side

occupied trip, to

seventeen

and

lay, vastly increased

we

arrived at

above tbe Pool. a

balf bours

on

Firf^t

"We

bad

tbis

first

perform wliat we bave several times since

performed in eleven bours witb tbe same steamer.

From

tbis first point to

Mswata we generally occupy

IMPHESSIOXS OF SCEXERY. in

U/i

tlie

399

Avant twentr-one and a half hours, but on "

„

,

.

our nrst voyage

m

per-

A

man

,

.

were twenty-eight hours

u-e

forming the journey.

Our impressions depend on our travelhng in misery as

the

who

one

feelings.

not Hkely to be so enthusiastic

is

jDerforms

journey in comfort.

his

Given a comfortable and quick steamer, good and

my mind

from anxiety,

free

it

is

food,

most likely that

I should try to do full justice to the real

beauty of the

scenery of the river between Stanley Pool and Mswata. Until that happy hour arrives

myself to sober description of that I ought to be

It

it.

in

stately majesty

that

brown

flood, or to paint the

guaiacum, or to point out

never struck

me

about the towering

enthusiastic

ridges

rise

had better confine

I

above the broad

dark-green foliage of the

how

it

contrasts with the

tender green leafage of the bombax, or floss-wood, and the silver-grey stem resembling a marble column amid the wealth

of leafy

that I ought

to

verdure which

it

overtops

dwell upon the petty details

jungly grove, to point out the

difi'erence

;

or

of a

between the

tender green of the climbing calamus, and the darker

green of to

tlie

bending feathery frond of the

show how there are

colours

from the crimson glories

of

the

the yellow blossoms of the acacia

and bright

when

lights

the sun

is

are

in

;

elais,

a tropic

and

forest,

travellers' tree, to

that deep shadows

here as elsewhere, and that

slowly setting, the watching of the

rosy light diffused over the lengthy slope of the hills

on the

left

side of the river,

—now

narrowing,, ever

1882. April 21. ^n^^-ata.

THE CONGO.

400 1882. April 21.

Mswata.

— ....

chased by the shadows of the

narrowino:

.

which are rising in retreating light, until

fantastic

and the shadows

hill,

;

—

I say that I

knew not

to

what

fancy I ought to have been exalted

of poetic

day

until the other

after the

fast

deeper, and darkness, as of the grave,

has fallen upon us pitch

lines,

seen for an instant tipping

it is

the very crown of the tallest

grow deeper and

rig'ht side,

.

I travelled

with a sober American

friend from Grreenock to Tarbert through

Loch Fyne.

had been a damp, dismal, disagreeable day, with

It

the wind howling, and dense stormy clouds rushing

When we

wildly above.

Loch

my

were about the middle of the

sober friend became excited, and touching

upon the arm, cried out, " think

that?

of

Is

it

Look there

not

What

What

it ?

is

What do you

!

Ah,

lovely!

there

is

"

nothing like Scotch scenery "

me

!

lovely

is

?

" I

asked quickly,

fearing that I should lose the sight of some rare thing. "

Why,

look at that sky

See, the sun I

saw a

is

bit

— and

look at those

hills.

"

coming out

!

of mist just whitened

by a sun, deep

buried beneath fold upon fold of stormy clouds struggling to

beam upon

a low

desolate, cold-looking hills covered

growth of heather.

equal height to those grand of the Congo, and

its

differed

But why

were really of

which hue

this part

from the brown volume

this sober

gentleman should

ecstacies of

language about Loch

cheerless grey sky

and desolate-looking

have gone into such Fyne, with

hills

hills

Loch Fyne was about the same width.

The colour of its water of the Congo.

These

wdth

TEE COXGO COMPAEED TO OTEEB EIVEBS. ])asses

hills,

mv "

comprehension. -rrr-

4.01

such exag^era-

If •

tions are permissible because "William Black has set the

fashion of enveloping every bit of Scotch scenery from

the Clyde to Stornoway with wealth of word-picturing,

what language rior glories of

shall

do justice

Congo scenery

to the infinitely supe-

How

?

we

shall

paint

the effects of steady, bright sunshine on the lonely, un-

tenanted woods which clothe the gorges and the slopes

hill-

and the lordly mountain-tops, which, with bare

heads, tower for 500 and 600 feet high to salute the tropic

sun

They meet the eye proudly on

?

either

Congo

bank, and wait tranquilly the advent of the

who

poet

and

tains,

Congo moun-

shall sing of the glories of the

their

own

have invented poetic imagery

patriots

American

unequalled river.

extol the

to

beauties of scenery which should perhaps, but do not,

From

belong to the Mississippi. I

have seen nothing to excite in

"What there

is

to the industry

of beauty on

its

me

it.

shores belongs solely

The Hudson

is

Amazon

—

I think of

them

all

—and

is

not

by the natural beauty of

this

their

the

a

to the spirit trifle

better

upper parts, the Indus, the Ganges, the Irawaddy,

La

Plate, the

I can see

no beauty

the Euphrates, the Xile, the Xiger, the

on

Omaha

a poetic madness,

and enterprise of man and

of utility pervading in

its

the Belize to

shores

that

Congo highlands were

caprice

or

first

excelled

many

scenery, which, since

fractured

l)y

volcanic

by some wild earth-dance, has remained

unknown, unhonoured, and unsung.

VOL.

I.

fold

2 D

1882. April 21.

Mswata.'

THE CONGO.

402

My purpose, however, is

1882.

Mswata.

SO

We

not to

make

nations envious,

drop this view, and become austerely modest

will

in our description.

In measuring the width of the Congo I found be 2200 yards; a

below the

little

first

point

it

to

we meet

above Stanley Pool I made a careful survey of the bed of the river.

Beginning

soundings across ran thus

at

the right bank

the

:

1st 500 yards, 39, 48, 09, 78, 73, 72, 75, 72, G3, GG, G2, GO, 57, 48, 42

2nd

30

„

„

36, 35, 34, 32, 31,

3rd „

„

4th „

„

31,30,28,27,26,30 32,30,31,29,32,33

200 yards, 30,

Which,

28, 26, 24, 20, 18, 17,

at three

ft.

feet.

„ „

15

feet.

and a half knots per hour,

will give a

volume

of

1,436,850 cubic feet per second.

By

a plain high-water

bank near by, higher.

knot

I

mark on

a rock on the right

observe the river rises twelve feet

we suppose that the current is increased a per hour, we shall find that at flood time

If

faster

the Congo discharges into Stanley Pool a volume of

2,529,000 cubic feet per second. flood, before

gigantic

the ocean,

it

the

In addition to this

mighty river

issues

into

has received from the right bank the

Gordon Bennet, Lubamba, Inkissi, Edwin Arnold, Mbika, Lualla, Lulu, and Bundi Rivers, and from the left

bank

it

has been increased by the Nseleh, Lulu,

Loa, Mpalanga, Inkissi, Kwilu, Lunionzo, Lufii, Luizi,

and Mpozo, besides hundreds of smaller streams, the united waters of which

during

its

flood

to

may

well

discharge the

millions of cubic feet per second.

swell full

the

sum of

Congo three

JOTTINGS FOR PILOTS.

the river from the head of Stanley

The mean width of Pool to Mswata of the

hills,

curves,

is,

•^

ahoiit

is

which

is

1500 yards.

The

base

Hue

of rock, except in the bights or

very irregular.

of course,

403

I

counted thirty-

four different and distinct points within the distance of 64 Eno-lish miles intervenino- between the Pool and

Mswata.

From

the following brief jottings for future pilots

some information may be gleaned Ist point

above Stanley Pool,

point serve excellently for shade.

few

i^aces. Hill

steep

of the Banfunu.

cliief

— 600

feet.

S. side.

:

Two

or tlu'ee large trees at

Good camping

Forest behind a

place.

Native path to district of

Eed wood abundant, good

Xfumn

Ngiima,

Inga Peaks on

for fuel.

bank visible from Leopoldville just opposite here. Yiew noble. 2nd point. Not very prominent, except to small boat skirting close

right

to

shore.

3rd point.

way out

1th point. 5th

i)oint.

tabular

On rounding

this point

you

lose

view of Pool.

Go

a

little

into stream, see view of river over twenty miles long.

Xot prominent, but distinct to boat hugging the shore. Opposite two gullies close together on X. side, just above

hill.

6th point.

Opposite deep valley N.

7th point.

Opposite another deep valley,

sometimes at

side. tall

woods.

Game abundant

river-side.

One Palm Point on X. side comes into view. Bald top, Beware of rocks at point, keep 100 yards off shore. 9th point. Low Point extreme end of low spur. HUlls recede a little from river. You are not far below One Palm Point, right bank, and just below Hyphscne Palm Grove, left bank. 10th point. Some rocks close to point. You are now half way between One Palm Point and Long Yiew Point, right bank. Manioc gardens on 8th point.

mount

liill

oioposite.

slope,

on

11th point.

left

bank, are seen after rounding

You

are

now above

Ilyphrene

tliis

point.

Palm Grove,

left

bank, yet

below Long Yiew Point, right bank. P-itli point. Another hyphajne palm grove above, and this is called Row Kapid Point. Stream strong, six-knot power required to pass.

must be pulled by hands in shore. ix)int. Before you come to this, pass close to fine forest-clad hills. You are now a few hundred yards below Wanipoko Ilivcr, entering Congo

boats

13th

2

D 2

i8S2. April 21.

Mswata.

THE CONGO.

404 from

1882. ^I'l'

-

Mswata.

•

left

bank. Stream dark as strong tea, water much colder than Congo

"Wampoko Keep well

is

sixty yards

wide

;

a terrace plain on each side of mouth.

At

to avoid shallows.

oiit

Best side for ascent

this point

you are

just at liend.

bank.

is left

Above Wampoko River and plain. A small village not Good marketing, fowls cheap, eggs proem-able, and dried fish.

14th point. far

off.

Peoi^lc iileasant,

and love

to trade.

A narrow creek is just above. on right bank. Strong current

15th point.

Eivcr strong at this point.

16th point.

Just below the grey

cliffs

17th point.

Opposite brown rock

bluffs, right

18th point.

Narrows.

at point.

19th point.

20th point.

Just above Dualla Island, and

21st ])oint.

opposite,

first

Twenty minutes

it.

Thirteen minutes above Pururu Island.

Food

and you are

below Pururu Island.

Splendid grove of hyphfene palm.

is large.

steaming by to pass

l)auk.

Fuel on island.

just below Dualla Island.

This island

bank.

Brown rock bluffs, right Hyphfene Palm Point, cliffy rock

Tillage close by

Fuel abundant on right bank. 22nd point. One hour forty mimites above 21st point. Forty minutes above last point. Land poor. 23rd point. tinpicturesque on left Ixank. Plight bank better. in plain.

21:tii

jwint.

25th point. right

procurable.

Five minutes above

last point.

Twenty-five minutes above last point.

on board. Splendid young trees

bank unless you have plenty of

26th point.

Eight bank.

terrace along shore.

many

Cross over to

fuel

Hill slopes forested.

antelope frequent this shore.

27th point.

The

for

building, on low

Lions, elephant, and buffalo, and right bank

Half an hour's steaming above

is

utterly uninhabited.

last point.

Mswata

Note the large trees near river to distinguish Point, right bank, visible above it.

on

left

Hills

bank.

it.

in view Ganchu's

Thirty-five minutes above last. Opposite tall bush and on S. side in Malivu Bend. Villages opposite. Hills on left bank lower than on right. 29th point. Just above first village seen on right bank from Stanley Twenty-five minutes from last point. Pool. 28tli point.

trees

30th point.

camp.

Just above

little river.

Grassy Point very

suitalile for

Thirty-five minutes above last point.

31st point.

Just above

little

snug

cove.

Twenty-five minutes above

last point.

32nd

point.

IMalivu village is opposite.

Thirty-five minutes above

31st point.

33rd point.

Just below Mswata.

34th point.

You

are

now

Forty-five minutes above last i^oint.

opposite native village of Mswata.

twelve miles below confluence of

Kwa and

Congo.

About

MSWATA. "These directions are for small,

405

steamers

1^82. April 21.

Fifty yards off shore will clear most

Mswata.

lia^lit-drauQ-lit ° * _

and row boats.

Xo

points.

trouble of ascent to six knots steam-power.

Between the points there If steamer

is

is

slack water clear of rocks.

powerful, say ten knots, night and day

No

are available for navigation without fear.

you can

so dark but

see Ihe

to

2.")0

Average velocity of current

feet deep.

in middle, five knots

;

grey gleam of water, or

Centre of stream has depth

black outline of shore.

from GO

night

in

many

places

it

seven knots,

is

which our small steamers could never ascend,"

On

April 26tli

we appeared

after coquetting a little

invited to approach.

Mswata, and

before

with the people on shore, were

The

chief,

was an

Grobila,

ex-

ceedingly stout man, of about forty-five, very unking-

Beyond

like in dress.

was done on

in

the negotiations.

palavering was needed

no business

Eleven

this our first arrival.

were employed patient

friendly greetings,

for

A

full

days

great deal of

both parties to

arrive at a thorough understanding.

is

Above Kimbangu, on Stanley Pool, the chief Gobila the first Kiteke chief we meet on the left bank.

The aborigines are Banfunu, whose

chief

without whose permission and consent

been useless

to

it

is

Gandelay,

would have

conclude negotiations, as a contrary word

from him would have made them impossible.

was informed of our arrival, he appeared

at

After he

Mswata with

an unusual display, heralded by musical instruments.

Ganchu

of the Bateke, on the right bank, also

three canoes, drums, bells,

came

in

and horns melodiously an-

THE coy GO.

406 188L'.

Jlav

nouncing

Granchn, however, was not on

his approach.

1.

Mswata.

^^^^

^^'^

•^*^^1»

great as he might be on the territory of the

He was

Bateke.

a very handsome, light-complexioned

His head

man, exceedingly vain and ceremonious.

was covered with a knit which was fastened the

Some

cleers.

cap,

tail

men

of his

made of palm

fibre, to

feathers of several chanti-

sported the

downy

feathers

of the pelican.

Gandelay's state eclipsed both Gobila's and Ganchu's, for he

was borne in a hammock, possessed

of leopard skins to

from his

off the flies

sit

a couple

upon, several females to brush

blow sweet

stateliness, servants to

music on ivory horns, and drummers, great and small,

He was

sound.

the

increase

to

person, amiably disposed, if one

He

also a good-looking

may judge by

results.

presented three goats, a basket of ground-nuts, a

jar of

palm

oil,

a pot of honey, half-a-dozen fowls, and

several bunches of bananas.

Gobila broached the subject of

The

them.

my

coming amongst

land, he said, belonged to Gandelay, chief

of the Banfunu, while he

long settled on the river.

was only an ivory

He was

trader,

quite willing to

A

admit

me

places

would be given me, but Gandelay, who was

present,

as his

neighbour and

friend.

choice of

must confirm the deed.

Ganchu, tax-collector of

Mpumu

Xtaba, the great

chief of the Bateke country on the north bank, spoke *'

I

belong

to the Bateke'.

into the country. will take him,

If

I like

white

men

to

come

Gandelay refuses Bula Matari,

and take

'

Commanda,' and take

all

:

I

who

GOBILA ASD GANDELAT.

come

"

him come with

or let

Will you take him,

Speak, Gandelay.

then.

trade

AVe will make plenty of

the more the better.

;

Gandelay replied

407

:

ine

" I

?

am

chief of all this countrj^,

from the TVampoko to the Kwa, and from the mouth of the

Kwa

To Gobila

land of the AYabuma.

to the

I

o-iven the river bank from Malivu to the Kwa. have o If Gobila accepts Bula Matari as his white man, the

Banfunu be

my

will also accept him,

the

Eugene

whom

friendly auspices

of

lordship

Janssen

our

we were duly

was introduced

to

hill,

choose the

where he was bade site

the

to

stand on

around and

to look

long-

commanding a lengthy prospect down the

and a

shorter,

above.

It

by

chiefs,

AYe chose a

of his house.

initiated

Lieutenant

estate.

little

he was taken by the hand, and made

a low

liill,

shall

brother."

Under such into

and Bula Matari

low

river,

though not more unpleasing prospect,

was situated about 800 yards below the

native village.

The day succeeding the termination tions was marked by the arrival of quartermaster of the French navy, rejoiced cricket.

and had

in

perfect

He had

health,

a

good-looking*

named

and was

as

He

Giral.

merry

as

a

been visiting Le'opoldville, of course,

at last relieved poor

^lalameen from his com-

])ulsory residence at Kinshassa,

men

of our negotia-

AYith 100 such

young

as Giral, so good-natured, so brave, so intelligent,

one might found an empire in Africa easily enough. Gobila had imbibed

a larger

quantity of Ki3'anzi beer

issi'.

jis^^ata.

THE COXGO.

408 1882^

than usual this morning, and was disposed

be rude

to

31 ay 3.

Mswata.

at first to the stranger,

We

to laugh at.

which Giral had the good sense

finally

persuaded Gobila to be happy

and good, when he became zealous

to

show Giral what

when

a remarkably hospitable chief Gobila could be

After partaking of our hospitality for one

pleased.

night, Mons. village,

north

which

of

is

next morning for Ganchn's

left

above Ganchu's Point, on the

just

From

side.

capital

Giral

here he proposed to travel to the

Mpumu

Xtaba

in Mbe',

on the right

side of

the Congo.

Fourteen hours' steaming from Mswata down the river brought us to Le'opoldville on the 9 th of

when

the assembled chiefs of

Kintamo

May,

clustered at the

landing-place and greeted us with cordial welcomes.

was much as

it

I

affected by this manifestation of friendship,

encouraged

me

greatly.

It

was

like a

return

home.

During

my

Le'opoldville^

Lieutenant

absence four caravans had arrived at

and

I learned,

Harou had

delivered

Lieutenant Xilis, but that no Pool

any

to

take

among

command

officer

other news, that

up

his

station

had arrived

to

at the

of the Sixth Station, nor was

officer tn route, despite

my

frequent letters urging

the despatch of the Europeans from Yivi.

Unable to wait,

I despatched the whale-boat

canoes, with the

men and

on the

May, and on the 11th

lOtli of

river again

in

the

En

and two

stores for the Sixth Station, I

steamed up

Avaut, arriving at

Station at sunset on the 14th.

Mswata

THE

"

WHITE CHICKEX:'

Young Lieutenant Janssen bad self

distinguished liim-

meanwhile by a great progress in the construction

of a commodious house, while to

himself with

filial

had christened

pride.

Papa Gobila he bore

man

regarded

Gobila, with rare

humour,

The

respect.

him with paternal "

409

his white son

stout old

'•

Susu Mpembe," or the

White Chicken."

As

it

would be a month

any Europeans

at least before

could arrive at the Pool, after the departure of the special courier bearing the order to the chief of Yivi to despatch all the

Congo,

it

Europeans designed

appeared to

me

for the

Upper

advisable to set forward with

the steamer, and explore the

Kwa

river, in order to

discover whether any special advantages would result

from a more intimate acquaintance with that river and its

tribes.

Meantime the men of the Sixth Station

might render valuable assistance

to

Lieutenant Janssen,

and expedite the construction of the

ground

in

its

station, clear the

neighbourhood, lay out gardens, and

improve the approaches

Mswata and the inland

to

it

from the

villa":es.

river,

and from

^]^^'{^y

Mswata.

THE CONGO.

410

CHAPTER XXI. DISCOVERY OF LAKE LEOPOLD

IT.

Kwa — The Mbiho and the Mfini— The Kwa —Fertile soil — Towing canoes, nnsnccessfnl

Start on the exploration of the

scenery

of the

—" Don't

frighten Gankabi too mnch —Kemeh —Sepulchre of chiefs—Different colonrs of the river—Musye Eela, the —Mosquitoes in myriads—Natives extracting from grass — Gankabi, Queen of Musye—A commanding woman " Follow me this instant to Ngete —Scarcity of food—Musyo ZMunono— Difficulty in getting information — Hostile natives on the banks—An unexpected lake—Film of dust ui)on the water Bays and wood-clad shore— Our lessening food—Encounter with native canoes —Fright and skurry—Pursuit and a dive for a captui-e — " There are many better than I in our village —Piepelled by natives—Circumnavigation of Lake Leopold — Himger,

Curions natives

"

Island

faithless

salt

"

I

river's

"

II.

and return 1882. 3Iay 19. iiswata.

to Leopoldville

illness,

— Pest at Isangila.

Having engaged a couple of guides from Gobila, and one from Ganclm the tax-collector on the north bank we set out in the En Avant on the 19th of May for our exploring trip up the Kwa.* which river, from all

—

—

we

could hear, was formed of two rivers, white and

Llack

waters,

Further, rapid, *

respectively

we were

and that

it

told

named Mbihe' and

that the

was dangerous

Mfini.

Mbihe was large and to

canoe navigation

This river was falsely named Ibari Nkutu to me in 1877 by the The natives along its banks call the

Tinscrupulous sons of Chumbiri.

united river, below the junction of the Mbihe and the Mfini, the Kwa.

THE MBIHE AND THE MFINI.

411

because of frequent explosive movements in the water,

which was

sudden boiling up wath wild com-

liable to

motion, followed by an equally abrupt subsidence. Mfini,

The

however, was a wide and even-flowing stream,

navigable for a great distance until there was a barrier,

formed by the two banks curving and meeting

The

gether.

natives,

endeavoured

to-

by embracing two hands together,

to explain

formation of a barrier

union of the banks, or

this

—by which

I

supposed they meant

a reedy tangle of jDapyrus, w^ater-cane, Pistia stratiotes, water-lilies, &c.,

common

to

a feature of tropical aqueous vegetation

many

African rivers of sluggish current.

Clearer information about these rivers w^e could not

owing

obtain,

to the jealousies of trade,

tion w^e did receive

and the informa-

was coloured deeply with alarming-

reports of aboriginal ferocity

:

the spears were sharper

and longer, the muscular force greater, and the

will to

do mischief upon every possible occasion more ready

was not very sanguine

than elsewhere.

Consequently

that I could do

more than merely examine a

I

certain

length of river and return speedily.

prepared for a 200 miles journey, or six days

I

steaming against the current. posed

At

the utmost I sup-

should be absent nine days, and rations for

I

that period were accordingly placed aboard.

With

a

few bales and boxes of beads, some packages of brass rods,

fuel,

guides,

wo

^^

reserve of

oil,

En avantV was

fourteen

men, and three

uttered to the engineer, and

started.

Within a

little

less

than an hour

we had rounded

1882.

Mswata.

THE CONGO.

412 1882.

May

Gancliu's Point, when, on account of the narrowness

19.

Mswata.

we encountered

^^ the strcam,

a rush across to the

a strong current

bank enabled us

left

tedious ascent of the north side,

The bend below

able headway.

On

water.

it is

Its rich soil

which are

his wants,

to

to avoid the

make

to

but

a notice-

a grand sweep of

is

the southern shores of

the future agriculturist. bility

and

;

a fine

shows

its

for

adapta-

met

furtlier

l^resence of clear water, fuel, timber

field

Ijy

the

on the slopes of

many

points

on which a farmhouse could be built having the

enjo}^-

the hills for building, and the choice of

ment of a long prospect of

river scenery.

In half an hour, Ganchu's promontory was out of view, and the

opened out to the width of a

river

mile and a half by the receding north bank, which

shows from the south bank in agreeable and well-

wooded

lines of hills, pierced

issuing

cool

On

and

the south side

to look

upon

;

clear

by many

streams

from beneath shady depths.

we have nothing very

agreeable

the ground rises in a dry front of arid

with scrub on their edges

bluffs,

little

;

in

the hollows are

a tree or two, and at the mouths of gullies a clumj) of trees,

guarded by ugly rock,

and-bye, a few belt of

hungry

young

miles above Gancliu's jDromontory, a

trees lines the

low shore, and screens the

features of rocky hills,

we have

while above

us,

be desired.

The

left

north-north west, and

Kwa

close in-fihore, until by-

and lean wasted

as grateful a

view as could

bank curves outward

midway

w^e see the

Eiver, variously called the

knolls,

to

the

mouth of the

Kwango, and

Ibari

KWA

THE

EIVEB.

413

Uyanzi begins on the right bank, presentino-

Nkutii.

to us a triangular tract sloping

up irom the confluence

with a green smoothness of aspect, like the glacis of a fortress, to the top of

some

hills

behind, which

The north bank

perhaps, 250 feet above the river.

be,

more

opposite presents a bolder outline, with hills of

commanding height and woods, proving the

The Kwa,

fertility of the soil.

the mouth,

colour than the Congo.

while the

The

first

steeper slopes, but, by their

we found to be a deep 450 yards wide, of a much browner

at

rapid stream,

may

Congo meets

view upward

It enters it

is

from the north-east,

here from the north by

not promising

w^est.

the banks are

;

sheer bluff walls, of reddish stone and clay.

We

had been three hours and forty minutes ascend-

ing the twelve miles from Mswata, which, with a palaver at Ganchu, had so delayed us that 1

.

when we

30 P.M.

soon discovered to be River, and until

much more crooked than

w^ell

on

;

was now

Kwa

The

entered the liver.

the

after sunset, our course

a series of traverses from right bank to or from point No.

vice versa,

it

1 to

left

point No.

little

w^e

Great

up was

bank, and 2,

and

so

no portion of the route offering a resting-place

until

we had

passed the third point,

when

the low

plain of Manabiza, on the left bank, offered at least 51

change

in the scene.

The

and presents a longer reach right

Before to

bank,

we

we come

admire

;

tlie

river ;

see another to point hills fall

No.

now widens

a

little,

while presently, on the village, 5.

called

we have

a

Matari's. little

islet

back, giving place to narrow

1882.

Mswata.

1882.

May

414

THE CONGO.

level terraces, wlncli

luio'lit

/^

19.

Gobiia's.

there were

more

has been

made

Round Point

trees in view.

old village of Gobila's

;

lord of

man

he of some use to

if

,

5 is

an

in fact, a poor brother of Gohila

it,

but judging from the poverty-

stricken look of the village, he appears to be a

sliiftless

Gobila's guide being a headman,

kind of character.

of course obtains for us a welcome, and dark night has

covered us

before

all

we can

see the outlines of the

huts.

Next morning, while

the crew of the steamer

cutting fuel, and steam

Danish is

sailor,

is

busy

my young

being made by

Albert Christopherson,

is

—who by this time

clever at native languages, clever at hauling wagons,

now shows

clever at carpentering, and at driving an engine

kind of

soil

is

—we have a chance of seeing what

on these liverine

headman takes me round plantations,

and he

his cleverness

pulls

the

Gobila's

terraces.

fields, to

the

cassava

up several mammoth tubers

well fitted to obtain the prize at an Agricultural Exhibition for healthiness

and

size

;

cane, of gigantic height and,

saccharine flavour. outing.

I

I

am

he also shows the sugar-

when

tried, of exquisite

like a city

boy on a

rustic

admire everj^thiug, eat raw cassava, try

the sugar-cane like a barbarian of inner Africa, eat

the

ground-nuts, which are so

tender.

I load

hands being steamer with Albert,

my

full,

my

pockets,

think of gifts

who shows

fat,

and

my

so white,

finally,

cap,

and so

pockets and

and return

to the

of rural produce to exhibit to

his hearty appreciation

his white teeth into the cane-stalk,

by driving

and smiling broadly

TOWING CANOES. with the situation

his full content

time since

first

from

severe,

stern,

thrown

and

to procure a

maximum

Steam ready,

now

We

fuel

happy

as

we

as schoolboys

God

intend,

we

stacked aboard,

close to the soft

We

and a quiet channel.

willing,

leave

the

bank oppo-

steered for the channel,

and soon met a canoe bound down river

Our native guide had

Pool with ivory. hailed.

to Stanley

friends aboard,

Soon we overtook two other canoes

going up to Queen Gankabi, who lived with her at a place called

Musye (pronounced Musyay).

crews seemed in a terrible fright

beer aboard, heaps of dried

;

»ut

1

fish,

tribe

The

our chief guide

They had great

Ankoli soon quieted them.

pots of

crockery from Uyanzi

they had been on a trading expedition, and

were

returning to Musye'. "

Would they

"

Ah,

like to l)e

we

well,

towed up river?"

don't know.

We

are rather afraid

of those turning things (paddle-wheels)." •'

Oh, no.

will hold it

will

be

We fist all

;

will give

and

right,

if

you a rope,

you look

after

to

which you

your steering,

and ^bikoli says we

shall reach

.Musye to-night."

They were persuaded to

k..,"p- J,,

have

of pleasure.

a grassy islet

who were

relieved

1882. 3Iav 20.

and continue the journey up the Kwa.

landing-place,

site,

are

work.

exacting-

out on a holiday, during which

is

we

the

for

memories of anxieties and privations en-

off

dured together, and are

There

—because,

into Africa,

coiiiino-

415

which they held on

to try.

firmly.

We

gave them a rope,

The steamer moved

THE CONGO.

4JG 1882.

May

ahead,

paddle-wheels revolved

the

and

fast,

drove

20.

Mabwa.

the

browu waves

was

draii'O'ed throuo-h.

and

Then the water began

of the canoe

steersman, becominG- a

its

prow athwart the waves.

excited, deflected the

little

The prow

far astern.

to enter the canoe

ment increased with the imminent danger was being dragged overboard ing

then

;

we

;

the canoe

the excite-

;

the native

;

was

capsis-

halted the steamer, and the poor natives

shook their heads and said " Ah, no too

;

much water

We way

at us."

waved our hands

them, and went on our

to

village of

l)Owered

in

Mabwa

is first

banana-fronds

The

agreeable locality. left

bank

is

a

seen on the right bank,

the

;

round in a comfortable, cosy

peaky

fold.

plain

must

l)e

is

river opens out

Ijroad

plain.

By

a pretty,

On

finely.

the

depth of

we know

the

river appears a veritalile

Congo

— more than two miles wide.

Erabo-Embo comes around

it,

into view, with a grove of tall

and a

ing inland to blue

still

hills.

more spacious

The

left

bank

plain extendis also a

plain well-wooded, while along the river border bers of villages appear.

and intervenino; and

owning a

sweep

a fertile tract.

Above Mabwa, the in breadth

hills

It

alluvium which the broken banks show,

trees

own

alone.

The

the

—they throw

those turning things are bad

little

They include

rich

num-

Livini, Mabula,

recurrino- fishing- hamlets, eacb

flotilla

of dug-outs.

Grassy

islets

are

of course numerous, in series with channels between

CURIOUS KATIVES. them.

Eo-rets ^

and ducks and pelicans are ^

successive flocks

away from

wait the

strenii-

and the noise

of the

islets,

in sober conclave to

advent of this terrible

demon

disturbing

quiet haunts, and then, utterly be-

tlieir

wildered by the increasing clearness of the

sounds,

they abandon their apparent studious indifference, and, disappear from the surface.

h'ke fish,

At Mabula

the valley of the

either banks are

Kwa

is

On

broad.

plains of rich grass, stretching to

tlie

distant lines of deep blue hills.

Soon

Mabula

after passing

advantage of a

w^e take

Seeing some

channel, and cross over to the right bank.

canoes which desire to accost us,

them "

to

come up

Where

What

thing

and allow

is

And what

?

this that goes

is

tbis all for ?

up by

itself

on

?

has forgotten

that

a few days ago), "

This

takes

the

know

At

we

l:fe

this

also

frightened by

are going to visit Gankabi.

white

men

there

is

Ah^

it

to do things like this,

a great cry of admiration, lest those

revolve again, and send them

I.

great

!

very cautious approaches,

Finally,

of

the white man's boat.

is

likes of "

wliicli

VOL.

was

Bula Matari, you know, brother

is

Gobila, and

3'ou

halt,

Oh," Ankoli responds in a matter-of-fact manner

(he it

we

for conversation.

you going

Icind of a "

our waters ^'

are

when we

all to

1882. 20.

May

by the

The hippos gather

intruding on

startled in

^

these

ous throbbing of the engine, escape-pipe.

417

and

things begin to

the bottom.

express a desire to go on to find 2 E

Mabwa.

THE CONGO.

418 1882.

May

20.

Mabuia.

a

camp ^

before

nio'lit, tliev

cry out. " No\v

mind

don't

.

AVe hope you will be

frighten Gankabi too mncli.

very good to " Oh,

we

won't frighten her, not for the world, poor

woman, not

Kemeh

lier."

world!"

for the

pale blue sky, out of

day,

all

its

waters and

ahead, dominating the

fervour

with

appeared,

Island

which

to

the

far

trees,

The

plains.

sun had shone with

tlie

now began

tall

be overcast.

Large

masses of grey clouds advancing from the west, finally shrouded the sun

;

and then

tlie

auguring that the day would

Long

before

we

with a rain-storm.

close

to play, darting

dark clouds, and with

the

rolling

announcing that the temjoest was near. rose, fair assist

we

and strong

we

to

w^ere yet unable to see

drop, and

a clear mile

away from

oar,

we

to

lay

in the

With

the

to

aught by which

up

for the night,

morning.

sail,

however, stretched over

contrived to pass the night without being-

were a long time

mornino'.

was hoisted

a scrubby grove, where fuel

wetted, though a certain dampness

We

The breeze

ill-prepared for the rainy tempestuous night

that followed.

an

thunder

but at 5.45 p.m. the rain

;

we had

might perhaps be found

We were

sail

of

through

the level expanse of plain to

could replenish our fuel

began

and a

astern,

On

our progress.

our right

blacker,

could see any immediate signs of a

camp, the lightning began the

grew

clouds

in getting

Fuel had to be carried a

a sloppy plain.

was unavoidable.

The young

under way next

o-reat distance

over

scrubl)y grove furnished

SEPULCHRE OF CHIEFS.

The mud

but poor material.

damp

added

state

the

at

hecame a quagmire, aud looking

419

at

it

landino'-place in

this chilly, Kemeh

to the disagreeableness of our situa-

Steam took hours of coaxing before

tion.

noon we

l)ut at

Kemeh

—the

and queens of the tall,

Holy

Wabuma

Isle

— wherein

the kings

are sepulchred under the

deep grove, was soon reached.

of parrots rioted above, and

made

Clouds

the air alive with

Turtle-doves cooed their love-songs to missing

sound.

mates

fire

started.

Island

shade of the

rose in

it

fond nourishment of the

the meter, despite our

;

hawks soared

the clear air contemplating

Aboard came

some desired prey. great gad-flies

in

now and

dragon-flies

then bit us viciously.

were not wanting

and

;

Tsetse,

desist

from

romantic brooding over the histories of the dead

cliiefs

too,

who Holy

in

sweet oblivion

to

lie

force

us

to

honorably interred in the

Isle.

Still skirting

the right bank,

where grey rocky AVe round

hills

first

tlie

slope

point,

we

to

and

arrive at a place

the

water's

edge.

with the

half-circle

curve of a bight, and come to another rocky point, passing which

we

discover ourselves at the lower ex-

tremity of the populous settlement of Musye.

What and the

wnth

is

miserable feeling of the morning,,

racino* of the niffht before in search of

convenient Iialf

tlie

of the

trees, I

Kwa

is

is

some

have omitted to say that the right black as coffee, while the

left

a pale grey, resembling lime-wash in colour.

black water

half

The

discharged by the Mfini River, which ^

^^82.

7? ij

t^

is

is

THE CONGO.

420 1882 Musre.

the right branch or the

left

The

the grey comes out of the Mbihe',

;

branch.

centre of Musye' settlement

fluence of these in colour,

it

two

will be

But a hasty glance

denote the route he

wide

prospect

flat

they are so different

to the other without a

at the prospect will scarcely

He

should take.

sees

covered ,with pale green

from a distance, not unlike a wide grain,

the con-

easy for the future traveller to

way from one stream

find his

guide.

As

rivers.

commands

field

only

a

reeds,

of wavinu-

through which he views two broad watery

channels as wide as the Seine at

towards the

united river

he

Paris,

conflowing

has voyaged upon to

Musye. Xaturally the appearance sensation is

among

well that

of a steamer

the inhabitants of Musye.

did so, since anything

it

created

a

For us

it

less w^ould scarcely

have roused the drowsy people from their noon-sleep, or from their noon-carousals over beer and trade-gossip

under their verandahs, or in the cool twilight of their

Within two minutes the rumour had awakened

houses.

the whole place

bank

;

the people mustered in crowds on the

and man}^ of the most daring shot out into

the river in floating

;

their light

down

the stream, the

without aid of hand or waters of the

Kwa, and

lines of rolling

waves.

The

first

possessed

dug-outs to

eS"ort

beat

examine, while

strange structure that, of muscle, cleaved the

them astern

into

two

founder of the community must have

an eye

to

business.

Xo European

could

EELA, THE FAITHLESS.

The

have chosen better.

site

was a

421

rich earth terrace

1882. '

20 to 40 feet above the highest respectable distance,

was

Behind

flood.

a low grass^^ ridge, in the

which there was ample room for gardens,

folds of

at a

it,

fields,

and pasture ground.

The grey Mbihe was open

them

journey

for several days'

to

the black stream of

;

the Mfini offered to

them the same advantages.

lower course of the

Kwa

The

offered access to the cloth

markets of Stanley Pool, or to the upper markets of

Uyanzi

for ivory, beer,

camwood powder and

and crockery,

exchange

in

for the

dried fish and millet and Indian

corn and tobacco that could be obtained from some tribes of their rivers.

Ankoli discovered, kabi, the queen,

inquiries, that

was absent up the

did not know, or back,

some

after

would not

tell,

Mfini.

when

and no one would undertake

Gan-

The people

she would be

to invite us to the

settlement.

We

asked for Eela, the wife of Kibibi, the

who had vowed her " man."

and hard

woman

a score of times that Bula Matari

was

Oh, woman, coy,

Eela came raving up.

to please, faithless like all the rest

In the

!

hour of danger she denied her " man." ''

Ha

throat. Ije slit

Bula Matari," she screamed, clutching her

!

"

Have

to please

I

no throat

you

?

Who am

take you in

when Gankabi

lor a fool

^ly throat

your cloth "

!

Must

?

is

is

this,

I that

away

?

worth more

my

only one,

you ask me

to

Out upon you to

me

than

all

" !

Eela, Eela"; never

more

will I trust the

word

May

21.

Musye."

THE CONGO.

422 1882. 3Iav -21.

of a

Musye.

iovB

woman for me ?

" Is

" I cried.

!

your

this the extent of

"^

Have I dared the dangers of the mighty river's flood and many stony points and rapids, and come up the Kwn, to be denied by you, who exclaimed before all Mfwa and Kintamo that I was your 'man'? Oh, Eela

Eela

I

!

ungrateful,

Adieu, wicked traitress

I

!

I

" !

risen to ten atmospheres,

gave the order to

Avant seemed to partake of off

Eela

fickle

Eest in peace

go.

The steam meanwhile had and when

faithless,

my

En

go ahead," the

'*

rage, for she darted

with such velocity that a cry of admiration was raised

along the peopled bank.

The bank,

villa o'es

of

Musve extended

continuously from

at

5000

this portion

Gankabi's reign

souls.

of the

Mfini to

the

Kwa,

the

tribe of the

is

Her

Kwa, and

son,

Buguku,

his territory

is

a

esti-

absolute over

TTabuma, and

evident that her subjects stand in considerable her.

rio-ht

The population may be

distance of five miles.

mated

the

alono;

it

is

awe of

chief over both banks of the

must be extensive, judging from

the reports of the guides.

TVe camped at 5.45 on a

little

island in the Mfini

we had enjoyed considerable immunity from mosquitoes. At Yivi and Manyanga mosquitoes were unknown at River, a few miles below Mbutchi.

Hitherto

;

Le'opoldville they troubled us occasionally at

the large clearing and terrace

drove them away.

in

the

curiosities,

extensive

but

them, and finally

At Mswata they were

they were comparative grassy region,

cliilled

first,

but reedy

so rare that in

this

flats

in

low tlie

JIO.SQUJTOES IX MYRIADS.

423

myriads upon myriads.

Mfini, they existed in

Xot an

is82.

May

of space above or below, except within the boiler,

incli

seemed untenanted by the vicious and insatiable

Our

moscj[uito-nets contributed

some

myself, but as for the poor crew

—

relief to

fires all

insects.

Albert and

round them,

and clouds of smoke and long wisps of grass availed

them but

little

— they

said

it

was one long agony

all

night.

Fuel was very scarce.

wood was

blance of being dry

but

for,

were able

We

was eight

it

seemed

to

the

industriously searched

on the 21st before we

islet.

be voyaging up some reedy river

High green

delta.

o'clock

move from

to

Everything that bore the sem-

spear-grass, taller

than a man's

head, spread over a space some fifteen miles in breadth,

and of unknown length, through which these two

many

rivers flowed for left,

as

hills,

we

ascended, was a continuous range

to

our

of low

with the crest partly wooded, and the slopes and

base wholly.

seems all

About a mile

miles.

to

we

If

look to our right the line of hills

be between fifteen and twenty miles

off,

and

the space between seems to be occupied with this

low and level grassy expanse, excej^t

where some

scrubby tree grew, or a clump of worthless cotton-wood,

whose fuel.

soft,

pithy, fibrous texture

was most

unfit for

Altogether this was a most singular condition of

things to us

who had

and hard wood

forests.

that the river was

menceineiit of

its

now

l>een

Yet

so

long amongst rocks

it

should be mentioned

at high-flood, or near the

com-

subsidence, as the black loam which

21,

Musve.

THE CONGO.

424 1882.

Musye.

nourished this dense crop of spear-grass there showed

and

here

itself.

Necessity has taught the natives that a nitrous salt

In June, July, and

can he extracted from this grass.

August they cut large

quantities of

leave on swathes on the ground until

then collect

and burn

into heaps

it

they collect the

it

is

dry,

—which make — they

and in their pots

lye,

In the residuum they find their

and

Afterwards

it.

black clay and loam enable tliem to it.

which they

it,

salt,

which

this

boil is

a

dirty grey in colour.

A

we

singular thing which

so close to such fat pastures,

observed in this river,

was the utter absence of

hippopotami, whereas in the Mbihe they are very

abundant.

This may, however, be due to the fact that,

being high-flood, the river overflows the water-courses,

and

penetrates

banks of the

But

in the

river,

where they may

natural

undisturbed.

;

crocodiles also

were

rare.

About an hour b}'

lie

the

whole course of the Mfini River we did

not observe one of these animals

very

behind

depressions

the

after

we

two well-manned canoes

there was a strokes,

our camp

left ;

in the foremost of

to her waist.

cried out, " There

is

style

bringing her right

Ankoli recognised her, and

Gankabi

" !

Naturally, to meet such a celebrity, the

Musye, the friend of on the

river,

which

female paddling vigorously for a few

and then in a peculiar

arm akimbo

we were met

we

Clobila,

Queen of

and the principal person

halted very quickly

;

and, without the

MUSYK

GANKABI, QUEEX OF sli '•litest sio'ii

of timidity, she steered her forty-five foot

This very action on ner part de-

canoe alongside.

She brought her paddle

noted a person of character. in-board,

425

and with her right arm

examined ns keenly and attentively

to

her waist she

some minutes

for

without speaking.

She probably was listening

to Ankoli,

who,

like all

other natives, begin at the yery beginning of a story,

and continue

Her

attentiye

survey of

Bula Matari was with interest reciprocated.

Excepting

end.

the

to

her hair and colour she had nothing negroid about her.

Draw

a figure with the Martha

face, colour it

a ne2:ro

Washington type of

with rich bronze, put short frizzly hair of

above, and one

Queen Gankabi.

has a strikino^ likeness of

If of full length,

draw

it

to represent

a figure of 5 feet Ih inches of sturdy, square-shouldered, substantial form, with an

ample grass-cloth about her

bare bust, bare feet and bare head, with no ornaments

about her except a heayy copper wristlet, and you

have a

life-like picture

Amons:

neffro

women

AVashington type

eyed

—

is

African

of

Queen Gankabi.

this

kind of face of the Martha

— austere, fixed, resolute, and earnestProbably

very unusual.

women during my many

Dark Continent, and

I

years of travel in the

cannot remember to have seen

I

more than half-a-dozen such women. softness

was prevalent

narrow and receding

have seen 200,000

;

A certain feminine

they were narrow browed, with

chins, but

the best of these for-

midable types were governing women, great in their

own way,

such as the Queen Mother of Uganda, and

1882.

Musye.

THE CONGO.

426 1882.

llay21. Musye.

Gankabi, Queen of Musye. ^ greater

That the

*'

'

due solely

is

was not

latter

to a lack of opportunities.

Per-

haps Candace of Ethiopia, and Cornelia, the mother of

may have been women of the same type. however, that such women have one strong

the Gracchi, I observe,

on their

character written

features, viz.. Maternity,

the ideal maternity "

So

are Bula Matari

3^ou

"

not speak

did

Slie

!

gently, but abruptly, rather with the air of a judge. " Yes."

"Come to-day,

This

You

along with me.

and to-morrow we can go

woman commanded

" Pardon, Gankabi.

drove

me away.

to the

end of it."

I

can stop at Ngete'

to

Musye."

already.

came up

river,

and

I

What you cannot go higher than Do you know I am Gankabi, and what "

Musye

Musye' I saw yesterday,

am now going

Ngete' with me.

!

I

say

is

done

?

Ay?" " Oh, well, Ankoli has told

has spoken of Gankabi.

I

me of Gankabi. Gobila know Gankabi is great, the

mother of Buguku, and Queen of the

name

is

(Tbere

Bula Matari, is

nothing

obstinate presence.

'

"

Be

do.

quiet.

do you want

beyond

Ngete'.

man who

If I

The paddle was Follow

me

"

such an

so, this

virago

what a stout-armed

in her

hand

!)

this instant to Ngete'.

to see tlie river for

my

breaks rocks.'

had not done

I believe,

but

;

like asserting one's self in

would have taught me, mother can

the

Wabuma

?

The two banks meet

There so.

is

What

nothing

[She

inter-

A COMMANDING WOMAN. Take

laced the fingers of both hauds.]

427

my

word

for

it,

i88-2.

jMay

and come along." " Xo," Ngete'.

when is, if

" To-day

I re2:)lied.

am

I

going

I return, if

you wish

" Well,

;

to see the

you are

if not, T

what

past Ngete'

at

next, I

"Ah, course '^

you

What

this river,

and

I will see you, that

as I

came up past you."

How

!

you go

will

No

will fight you.

one

The people are bad

is

they

;

all."

well, I

but

;

end of

wonder

allowed to go past Xgete. will kill

do not wish to see

I

Musye,

go down

The people

?

shall

must go

I

for

be very sorry to get killed, of all

the same."

" ?

"

To

"

And what will you do with it, when you do see it?" Nothing. When I have seen the end, I will return."

"

see the river."

"Enough

then.

Listen.

Stay here.

Gro

close

to

the bank there, and I will go and get you something to eat,

and we

" No.

I

your work and to

am

will

to

Musyc."

You go and do

glad to have seen you.

Wait there two

return to you, and

or three dnys,

together

we

will

go

Musye." " No, no, no

on with

me

;

do not be fooHsh, Bula Matari.

to this next village,

some food and you go to

go together down

at Ngete.

I shall

to Ngete'

Musye I

and

shall stay there.

and get

my

things,

I

Come

will give

Meantime,

and we

will

you

1 will

go down

to-day."

assented to go with her as far as the village, where

she procuie
me

"21.

Mu>^yo.

a goat and some bananas, which were

THE CONGO.

428 1882. :Musye.

very accej^table presents.

retum from Xgete,

AVe waited an hour for

had departed on her

she

after

lier

errand, and then, fearing that she might have another

we

opportunity to begin her obstinate entreaties,

When Xgete',

tinued on our voyage.

which was

conalso

a populous place almost as large as Mus3'e, appeared in view, Albert

received

a hint to

fire

up

to eight

atmospheres of steam, with which we dashed on despite the frantic shouts of the people of Xgete, in the midst of which Gankabi's conspicuous figure Avas seen waving*

her hands energetically with

manner

is

on the

left

bank, and

trance to two channels caused

hump

a reddish clay

commands

by a long

the en-

island.

The

rising above the surround-

Just above are the villages of

ing sea of spear-grass.

Impali, and five or six miles higher Muleke',

mothers

so noticeable in her character.

Xgete

site is

the stern

all

where we arrived

at

3

is

F.3I.

the district of

Our

fuel

was

almost consumed, and there seemed to be no prospect

The wooded

of obtaining any.

hills

about a mile away from either bank. tion with Ankoli

we thought

may

it

appeared to be After consulta-

best to treat for

bread, and bananas.

It

of a country this was

when we had

fuel,,

be imagined wdiat kind to pui chase w^ood

for fuel

The people found and

visit

us by

a wild-looking affect

a

means

a natural

set.

heavy brass

to

approach the steamer,

canal.

We

found them

Their women, like the Wy-yanzi, collars,

from ten

to sixty

pounds

weio-ht of brass around their necks, while le^'lets

and

SCARCITY OF FOOD AND FUEL.

The

armlets were also massive.

They

top-knots.

we were not

assistance

with African chiefs are tedious

fume, and wish to finish his able time

Our

this distance

fuel cost us

—was

{Silurus)^

was worth one

abundant

fresh fish, a foot long,

makina-

and require a and

fret

within a reason-

two

for once,

100 brass

even with a

;

which

rods,

Fish

at

— dried

one dried, twelve inches

brass rod, or a sixpence

were purchased

;

six

for four brass

shillings.

the 23rd, our steamers, well loaded with dry fuel,

set out

The

from Muleke at noon. tribes inhabiting the

and wlio extend is

affairs,

were worth sixpence each.

and fresh

On

the

But negotiations

set task

banked river were too strong

rods, or

;

but the force of circumstances in this grass-

;

steamer.

lono; in

The explorer may

of patience.

deal

^

and long, and beautifully grooved.

friends with Ifwe, chief of Muleke.

vast

in towerino-

carried spears like Zulu assegais

shafts being slender

With Ankoli's

was

hair

429

the

on the

left

we

encountered.

slight difference in dialect

Wabuma.

There

bank,

Muleke

far inland, are the Basazza.

first district

that of the

district

but a

is

between their language and

Ankoli was therefore

still

useful

Ndua, a village situated on another humpy rise

in the

to us.

land,

reminded us of a Nilotic village during an inun-

dation.

Though

the liver,

it

was

it

was only 12

at a

feet

above the level of

commanding height above

sea of grass rustling

it,

the

and waving beneath, judging

from the prominence of the black figures of

its

people,

I882. Jlav -22.

xgete.

THE CONGO.

430 18S-_'.

Ndua.

who

stood

grouped, watching the approacli

steamer under

A

sail

and steam.

few miles above Ndiia, we came to the upper

end of the long

which had required

island, to pass

At

hours' steaming.

to

camp on

cotton-wood

trees,

five

upper extremity on the right

its

bank stands the village of Ganto. pared

of the

the

left

At

5 p.m.

we

pre-

bank near a clump of

from which we managed

to

pick

some remnants of dried wood.

VILLAGE OF NDUA.

Early dawn on the 24th found us moving up river,

and about 7

a.m.

we came

a bend of the stream. this region,

in two hours

we

to a

grove of hard wood in

Such being a great

rarity in

availed ourselves of the treasure, and

we were

well loaded with at least enough

for eighteen hours' continuous steaming.

Ndu Kumbi,

a large village on the

reached within an hour, and about

1

left

bank, was-

p.m.

we were

HOSTILE NATIVES. of ]\Iusye

abreast

481

Munono, wliere Ankoli

iDossessed

This compelled another stoppage for the day,

friends.

which was not considered regrettable, since we obtained a supply of fresh bread,

of about

of millet, sufficient to

The bread was

last for several days.

a roll

made

nine

inches

in the

form of

long and one inch in

diameter, thirty being obtainable for a brass rod.

All this time, despite our utmost efforts to obtain information, nothing was elicited tending to

make one

suppose that farther up there was any extraordinary

The

feature worth seeing.

they

all

knew

peoples,

and

people.''

At

a

;

natives willingly imparted

they gave the names of villages and

what

told us

possessed

villages

" good

" the end of the river,'' they said,

was

meeting of the banks, beyond which the steamer

could not travel.

Since leaving Ngete the river had varied in breadth

from 250

3-ards to

400 yards, deep enough

purposes of navigation.

Although the man

for all the at the

bow

held the sounding-pole in his hand, and continually tested the depth,

we were never warned

of shoal water.

The current was a steady even flow of two and a half knots per hour, and the river was clean from bank to

bank, presenting no obstructions,

such as snags or

sand-bars, between the sedgy banks.

wood on

its

shores

superior even

we

to the

there been

should have considered

Congo

unruffled flow, deep water, cial

Had

for

it

as

navigation, from

its

and clean bed.

canal could not have excelled

it.

It

An

artifi-

had also a

gently-winding course, though erratic in the detail of

1882.

Ndu

THE COXGO.

432 1882. 3Iay 25.

the curves, but was witliout eddies,

Yamru.

rusbing ciUTents at

'

'

corners

tlie

backwaters, or '

everywliere

;

it

was

smoothly flowing, even at the angles.

On

the 25th, soon after leaving Miisje

passed the village of Miikana

we were

hostile,

on a

told,

to

—right bank —which was

the

former.

about 80 feet above

bluff

Yamvu, the people

Munono, we

the

Near noon, appeared

river,

of which, despite our endeavour to

be peaceable, would not respond, but kept regarding us,

By

weapons in hands,

mute and stupid

curiosity.

we should with plenty. Abund-

the banana groves flourishing around,

Yamvu

judge

ance of oil,

vrith a

fish,

must be blessed

unequalled growth of bananas, with palm-

millet-seed for bread, form a

luxurious chop for

black Africans bred on such a diet.

The 2^ 27'.

latitude at

At

noon showed we were in

12.45 p.m.

Until near night

we

we

S.

sighted and passed Unkuri.

held on our

way

—sedgy banks on

either hand, to the depth of half a mile, backed line of

for

low

hills,

Lat.

which were always

by a

inaccessible, except

narrow dug-outs, wliich could be

j)^iii^ed

through

the foot-wide channels in the sedge.

Near the evenins: reach, hills

we came

to a

of this dav, at the end of a lono-

sudden curve of the

on the right ran sharply

right,

The

to the left, while the

river reach appeared to end at their base.

became narrower on the

river.

and

The sedge

for the first time

we

looked upon the space between the river's course and the base line of the

hills,

and saw they were

silent pools or lagoons, connected

by

intricate

lines of

narrow

LAKE LEOPOLD.

On

channels.

an

433

where there were a couple

ant-hill,

'

we made our camp.

of ruined huts,

we were obliged

The next morning

break up one of these huts to

to

obtain fuel.

But next morning, pressing onward, we found the river course simply curving at right angles to the long

and that we had not arrived

reach,

An

hour

a

later

change

in the

green

hills

first

yet.

monotony of sedgy

The

river

the rio-ht the base of well-wooded and

of moderate height, and green-topped bluffs,

crowned with populous

was

end

at the

banks and broad sedgy valley appeared.

now washed on

were

villages,

Mutumba

seen.

Ankoli had never been so

spoken.

He

far.

mentioned the name of Gankabi, but the name evoked not that

crowded seemed

interest

we

numbers, which

^Ve should have purchased

augmenting.

food were there

any immediate prospect of being able

But time was

to effect a favourable impression.

able to us,

and we were not prepared

sojourn on the present voyage. a promise that

we

should

call

for a

after another.

steamed on, with

"^Ve

on our way back.

The two

confluence of two channels, the wide, " led to lake,

village,

Ngana or

;

" but

district,

valu-

lengthened

came

a dozen other villages, pleasantly situated,

view one

They

should have expected.

to the steamer in unpleasant

to be

last

left,

commanded

did

Half into tlie

a hundred yards

whether Ngana

we

not

is

a river,

know.

We

chose the right-hand channel, as being the largest, or rather widest, being three times the width of the other.

A

sedgy VOL.

I.

tract,

which spread out

i8S2.

like a

waving grain2

F

\^-^q '"^^°^*^*

THE CONGO.

434 1882.

field,

Lake

"^'^s

separated one from

other.

tlie

The

bank

riglit

a tree-clothed steep, exquisitely green, and the

''"°^°''

nmbrao'eous red-wood trees towered from near

larcre

the water's edge for

up the

bluffy face of the hills..

Then we were sheered from

their immediate nei^-h-

bourhood by a tract of sedge again, but there was 500 yards of clear water.

two miles of

Within two hours, a break

low sedge on our

in the dense

clear water,

to suspect that

still

and

left

it

we were about

gave us a view of

was only now

began

I

entering a lake, perhaps

a wide marsh. I

that

examined with

we were

halted,

interest the

passing them at an unusual speed.

and reversed the engines

current

perceptible

still.

overboard, and found 22

A

AYe

;

We

there was a slight

dropped a lead-line

feet.

low point, with one palm conspicuous on

out from the right bank, and the nearer it,

and observed

shores,

it,

stood

we approached

the more I became convinced that we had stumbled

unexpectedly upon a lake, for to our liills

were

five miles

left

the low

away, and between us was open

water.

As we steamed

along,

we

observed on the inky sur-

face of the lake a film of dust,

sulphur in colour, and far

which was

away

in the

like flour of

wake of the

steamer astern, the water was like a lengthy mirror set in a

broad gilded frame.

Just above

One Palm Point we found

a bight, with

a smooth pebbly shore, and deep impenetrable

tangle aback.

Here we camped,

woody

at 5 o'clock, to obtain

TEE SHORES OF LAKE LEOPOLD.

romp on the

to

fncl,

435

pebbled shore, to skim

clean

1882.

May

blue slate

flat

stones,

and sling round

marble-like

pebbles of quartz and porous red stone on the yellow

The

sulphurous face of the lake.

wood we had obtained on

light pithy cotton-

the banks of the river below

was here discarded and thrown overboard^ and harder white wood, with

In the morning the discarded firewood was

instead. still

deep red core, was substituted

a

floating in our neighbourhood.

The water, when held

to the light in a glass,

of the colour of brandy, but looking water,

was

it

The next

down

into deep

like ink.

day, the 27th of May,

we

continued our

voyage of exploration, and skirted the shore, distance of

As we

1

was

00 yards

proceeded,

off

from

at the

it.

we observed

that the left shore

receded gradually from view, until our eyes rested on But, by the dark loom of

a watery horizon eastward.

land over the

bow

of the steamer,

that this lake possessed great land,

or that there

we became convinced

bays indenting far

were large islands in

it.

in-

We

sounded occasionally, and found the depth to vary

from 10

feet to

24

feet.

Not a

ripple rufEed

its

smooth

dead surface, but that winds did occasionally agitate

was proved by the

line of

rounded pebbles strewn on

wave-washed it,

shore,

by the form of the

it

by the sand}'

beach, and the traces of the effects of spurted spindrift,

and sprayed surge

visible in the shade of

overhanging

shrubbery.

Most of our attention was, howevcr_, attracted 2

F 2

to the

26.

L^k-e '''^^

THE COXGO.

43G 1882.

May

wood-clothed

shore,

which rose in harmonious hnes

27.

Lake

from the margin of the lake hills

to

varying from 150 to 300

the leafy summit of

feet above, to the

wag-

and sand-pipers which were hopping briskly on

tails

the beaches, while jays careered from bush to bush, fish-eagles perched

and contemplative

boughs, curiously regarded

Parrots, flying with

weary wing, and uttering harsh

affected as

us.

on the highest

they passed overhead; a

strident cries

family of weaver-birds,

liovering under their pendent nests, with their yellow bellies

upward;

divers

darting

in

alarm from our

proximity, or some slow lumbering fat crocodile, loth

moving

to be disturbed, sneakingly

his

lengthy form

waterward, added to the satisfaction we

felt

as

we

as

we

steamed swiftly along. Let

it

not be forgotten, however^ that

were willing

drawbacks

enjoy ourselves, there were serious

to

Our pleasure jaunt was

to enjoyment.

turbed by the

we had but

fact,

food.

little

dis-

ever recurring to the memory, that

was now the ninth day of

It

our departure from Mswata.

days

much

to return to the station,

It

even

desisted from further exploration.

would require three if

we on

Who

the instant

could

tell

how

many days we might

be occupied on this circumnaviga-

—

what we had

tion of the lake

?

resolved upon, the

for that is naturally

moment

that the idea flashed upon

Some wise man my mind when I was still

us that a lake had been discovered.

had implanted the lesson in

young, " Never to abandon a good thing until you

have seen

it

through,

lest

you may never have the

A STOEM.

437

In other words,

opportunity again."

if

you discover a

is82.

Mav

new

Jake, or a

of

as

it

you

another

This

new

can, lest the accidents of

visit to is

river, exert yourself to see as niucli life

may

it.

what we were bent upon doing, although the at

me

— were

not

crew were already looking unutterable things for a

my

prevent

But we

hardihood.

whit better

make us poor

—Albert

than they.

off

Who

indeed.

sedgy-banked river whereon

we should be compelled bargaining for

it ?

Two

and

I

days more would

could have dreamed of a fuel

was

so scarce that

to lose precious half-days in

And who

lake lying in this direction

could have dreamed of a

?

The bights were noble curves of land, but the risingland behind showed nothing more than one continuous forest, the notable details

being, perhaps, some tower-

ing cotton-wood, attracting attention by UDrio-ht

ii'rev

head in

its

its

large and

columnar trunk, or some palm raising

a tuft of

bending fronds.

not a break to

indicate that there

habitants in the

unknown

land.

But there was

might be human

Unbroken by any

incident the day passed, and in the evening

we camped

in the wilds beside a silver beach, being apparently the

undisputed lords of the silent lake and land.

Near midnight we were roused from our slumbers \^y

a storm of driving rain.

fierce

flaming pennants

The lightning darted

and blinding white

in

flashes

through the intense blackness of the night, and the thunder followed with rolls, or

long-continued

in short, sharp explosions

reverberating-

which stunned our

'11,

Lake Leopold.

THE coy GO.

438 1882. 28.

Then the

senses.

May

Lake

showers, as rain fell afresh in eaffer ^

though forced down upon us rose into a gale,

;

and presently the wind

and we soon heard the surge respond-

ing by sounding Llows upon the hollow shore.

we had been so was safe, though we did

far prudent that the steamer

tunately,

I

not quite escape the swell.

stormy event had

should have wished that this

happened during the day, that inky

water

rise

I

might have seen the

waves crested with

in

For-

its

syrup-

coloured foam.

But ly morning of the 28th the

rain

had ceased,

the wind had been hushed, and only the uneasy swell

Our

reminded us of the wilduess of the past night. sail

had

ill-protected us

from either rain or damp

;

the

steamer had six inches of water after the copious rain.

Baling had to be done, fuel had to be required careful attention, a

warm

cut,

steam

breakfast had to be

prepared of very mild tea and roasted bananas, before

we were encouraged About

to venture out.

we were issuing shore, we saw half

ten o'clock, as

bay-like bight in the

canoes well out

in the lake,

out of a long a dozen small

and one probably two

miles further out, and after passing the rocky point,

we saw belonged.

the village to which these canoes evidently I

thought

this

an excellent opportunity to

obtain some information respecting the country, and

perhaps obtain fresh

fish

upon the fishermen, who,

and food. all

We

bore

down

engrossed in hauling their

seines aboard, permitted us to approach within a mile

of them before they were aware of our presence.

And

ALARMED FISHERMEN. siicli

a presence as

we must have been

white boat with

large

439 to tliem

outspread and ample

!

A

'^'ing,

emitting strange noises, which was unlike the sounds

by any animal they had ever heard

sent out

hands up in dismay.

their

lift

mind than the

sence of

and

paddle,

One, with more pre-

others, claps his

instinctively skims

seem

others

the

idea,"

hands

to his

"An admirable

away.

and

cry,

to

They

!

their

strike

all

paddles deep in the black water, and urge their tiny

dug-outs until they appear to the other

—the canoe

all

fly

alone in the watery waste

which the fisherman, profoundly abstracted sits

heedlessly hauling his seines aboard

What

is

that

What

?

?

is

that

—in

in his task,

When, hark

strange sighing

harsh grating, and plashing noise

and

sound,

He

?

turns

direction,

and beholds a strange structure,

white, with lofty

wing, and a pair of revolving

toward our all

But

over the lake.

clappers striking the lake

He

waves behind.

falls

completely paralysed, as vision

not

is

all

sideways into his

little

canoe

striving to realise that the

if

a dream.

into his mind, "

water into long trailing

No

doubt the thought flashes

But a moment

since I swept

my

eyes

around, and saw naught strange to inspire fear or anxiety in me. issued

It

?

But

this

!

Whence

must be a wild dream, surely."

But again the gentle wind bears strong

pulsating

sighing

;

wheels

;

Leaping

could this have

sounds,

and

the

to his

ears

the

deep but sharp

he hears the desperate whirl of the paddlehe sees the

trail

of rolling wavelets astern.

to his feet with frantic energy,

he takes one

1882.

{^^^ '"^^°

'

THE CONGO.

440 1882.

*iay28. Lake ''^°

short e'lance around, and realises that he, insensate '. ^. -11 fool, while indulging- in Waltonian reveries in midday, .

.

.

.

has been abandoned by his friends

hope while there

is

is

life

;

!

.

However, there

he bends his back, and

draws, with long-reaching grasp, the water sideways, this

way, and

spear-point,

and the tiny pirogue, sharp

that,

leaps

over the

water, obeying

his

as a will

dexterously. "

Down

and a

with the

sail,

wing

boys," and the

is

shaft stands revealed, with a black

tall

behind vomiting flame and smoke from

its

folded,

column

muzzle.

Nearer and nearer the steamer draws on the fugitive pirogue, but, by a whirl of the paddle, the dark

man

shoots triumphantly at right angles away, while the

En

Avanf, confused by this sudden movement, careers

madly along.

In a short time, however, she

is

in full

chase again, this time carefully watching every move-

ment. The

man

shoulders

he observes the monster rapidly gaining on

;

has kept throwing wild glances over his

him, and each time

it

seems to loom larger and larger

to his excited imagination

whirl of the wheels, and

;

tlie

and the puffing of the steam.

he hears the tremendous throbbing of the engines,

Another glance, and

seems to be overwhelming him, when,

"Ach

Gott

it

!"

he springs overboard, and we sweep past the empty canoe.

" Now, Uledi and Dualla, we will go round spot where he sank, and as he comes

to the

up jump over-

board and catch him."

We

steered the steamer round,

and proceeded slowly

llilUi'«r:i;

'

Mllih.ii'

llliitllSlJ'

iil'I'lfll

r\

OUR CAPTIVE. towards the empty canoe.

Tlie

441

man was swimmins:

As we came up he

vicinity.

its

divecl,

pretty sight to

see

the graceful bodies

It

was a

darting like

They brought him

sharks towards their prey.

up,

each holding an arm, and

swam

We

and seated him on the

sail,

less wildly,

and

him up

lifted

tenderly,

with him to the boat.

waiting patiently for his pulses to beat the excited heart to cease

"Now,

No

And his

— softer

Ankoli."

still,

again Ankoli, in soothing whispers, asked what

name

"

Ankoli's cooing tones and

to

accents.

Try again

•'

rapid throbbing.

Ankoli, speak softly to the poor man."

answer was given

wooing

its

was.

What

did you pick

me

out for

?

There are many

better than I in our village."

"One what?" he mean "

He

"How

I ask.

better?

What

does

" ?

means," answered Ankoli, " that there are finer

slaves than he in the village."

"

Ah

!

There have been slave-catchers here, then.

Where do they come from "

How

do

I

know

?

—

I

?

never saw

this lake before.

Perhaps Gankabi, perhaps Ingya of Ngete'."

Having evidently obtained ])Oor fellow could give,

all

Dualla

the information the filled

his

two hands

with bright beads, and laid a dozen handkerchiefs by his side, then

him

to step in,

1882. 28.

May

and our two

into the depths after him.

sailors flashed

in

,

.

bringing the canoe alongside, we asked

and placed his cloth in the stern of

it,

L^ke '*'°^°

THE CONGO.

442 1882. INIay 28.

with a small parcel of cowries. .

After

lie liad

stepped

.

did not seem to realise that he was a free and rich

^16

Lake

11^5

'°^'°

man

thought if

was such a distance between us that he

until there

we

lake,

it

When

tried.

we saw

knew

him

impossible for us to catch

he seemed a small speck in the

the figure rise to

that he

again, even

height,

its

was conscious that

and then we

had begun

his old life

again.

We south

arrived at the head of the lake, which lat.

1°

28',

and

after

We

large village.

river,

halted,

this direction

we came and lay

But

understood.

and

only

made

we should

in sight of a very

to

about 150 yards

shore, while Ankoli endeavoured to

off"

in

going into two or three

deep bights in the hope that in

meet some navigable

is

make himself

the inhabitants gathered together,

demonstrations

hostile

bows and arrows.

To put

with

their

the matter beyond doubt, a

native advanced to a projecting log, and deliberately placed his arrow ready, while a few more lined

shore with light assegais.

the

Ankoli recited Gobila and

Gankabi's names, as though they were the names of protecting deities, \ml never

Under such

these people.

and food now stay

to

strangers.

On in

word of reply gave

conditions, with time flying,

at starvation scantiness,

convert

them

into

we

could not

showing hospitality to

Rebuffed by these coercive intimidations

we steamed away, until,

a

coming

skirting the rock-bound shore,

we encamped for the night. we were away before the dawn, running

to

the 29 th

still

an

island,

and out of deep bays, along a low shore of rock

LAKE LEOPOLD CIRCUMNAVIGATED.

443

capped by humus and alluvium, until about noon, when

1882.

entered another bay in the southern coast, where a

Lake

we

large extent of forest

was submerged, and the water

penetrated far inland.

On

the 30th

we were

still

engaged

deep bays of the irregular south

were

villages

seen, but

in exploring the

Only a few

coast.

we appeared the bush. Numbers

the instant

inhabitants betook themselves to the

of small streams entered these bays.

On *'

my

the 31st I wrote the following in

diary

:

Explored three bays to-day, and, clinging closely to

the shore until 2 p.m., I crossed over to the west side,

One Palm Point

arriving at

at 3.30 p.m.,

navigation of Lake Leopold

IL was 24

greatest

depth I discovered

is

depth

perhaps 16 feet at

this

is

6 or 8 feet less in the it

dry season.

covers a considerable area

;

its

may

it

Though

so shallow,

—nearly 800 square miles. any importance,

Ankoli informed

at a loss to

know.

A

me

I

that

the Mfini, but

by what means they could have reached the

am

be

season;

Wyyanzi sometimes came down by

true, I

average

at the north-east extremity of the lake.

is

penetrated upward 5 miles. the

The

completed.

feet

I have only discovered one river of

which

and the circum-

great

lake, if

many

small

streams converge into the lake. "

The southern

fracture jiresent

that a after

jagged in

coast presents mainly the irregular

cake of slag might

be supposed to

being struck with a hammer,

outline.

Tt is a

it

hard grit-stone, and

like pumice-stone in its character, veined

is

so

j^itted

with iron ore.

THE COXGO.

444 1882.

The north

Lake

^oodcd,

''^^^

hills,

well-

Open bights and a few snug coves.

Red

coast

witli

com2:)Osed

is

of lines of

wood powder, and rubber and

with ivory, are

fish,

the jorincipal products of these people, according to

my

who

guide,

has traded often with Gankabi, who,

most of her trade with the

in her turn, has obtained

villages near the entrance to tbe lake. "

AVe are almost famished, because

with the hope that

somewhere

we would be

but such

;

was buoyed up

I

able to obtain food

the extraordinarily wild and

is

timid character of the natives around the lake, that,

with the best desire in the world, prompted by pinched

we have been

vitals,

unable to obtain anything.

would jDrobably take two voyages more

to

It

conquer this

suspicion of our intentions. '•

crew

My

my

Besides I

am

anxiety about obtaining food for

my

oppressed to-night with a deathly languor.

entire frame aches with pains, but fortunately I

have

all

my

observations

taken seriously

ill,

is

it

worked

out,

only a descent

and

if

down

I

am

a river

that has been sufficiently surveyed while ascending. *'

June

Point,

1st.

— AVe

start at 7.55 a.m.

Lake Le'opold

from One Palm

Arrive at confluence of

II.

Ngana with

Mfini at 11.20 a.m., and Musye'

at 6.20 P.M.,

when,

late as

it

is,

Munono

the ravenous

jrieople

begin bartering-, and the natives, never loth to trade after

their

confidence

has

been

obtained,

respond

heartily.

" I

have a strong fever on me to-night.

"June

2nd.

—Left

Musye'

Munono

7.5 a.m.; arrived

AGAIN IN SICKNESS. Muleke 11.45

at

'

Gankaoi has received

Musye 4.45

arrived at

a.m.: .

my

445

My

excuses.

p.m. ,

illness is

1882.

June 12.

,

in-

LeopoldTille.

Albert and Dualla must no^v

creasing in intensity.

take charge.

—Halt, and

"June 3rd

to 6th.

"June

— I urge departure, and

7th.

leave G-ankabi's,

By

and arrive

this time I

sick at Gankabi's. at

11.30 a.m.

Mswata 3.45

at

had become perfectly

we

p.m."

On

helpless.

the 11th, Albert, engineer and captain, took the boat to Stanley Pool.

where

at Le'opoldville,

dimly remember being carried to the

I

Four

Xext day we arrived

remember

or five days later I

station.

have been told

to

that some Europeans had arrived, those very people I

had waited

my

to

for so long.

I

remember

that they

came

bedside, but I have no distinct recollection of

anything particular relating

them.

to

There were brief intervals of consciousness each day. In one of these I gave orders for a caravan to be pre-

pared ine

and, as the Zanzibaris

;

who had accompanied

from Zanzibar had performed their three years' term

of service, they should convey It

that

was on the 27th of June,

my

position fully

me

in

to Tivi.

camp

We

had

the 23rd, and had since crossed the

On

made

applied to

me

believed

Congo

to the

on

north

Manyanga, and

itself manifest.

During the interval of waiting Isangila, Mr. T. J.

I

left Le'opoldville

the 28th I was conveyed to

liere incipient gastritis

Mpakambendi,

dawned upon me, and

myself free from danger.

bank.

at

for the boat

from

Comber, head of the Baptist Mission,

fur advice,

and

I

strongly recommended

THE COXGO.

446 18S2.

isancriia.

him

to

a settlement at Leopoldville,

managed

I'^qucst I

hand

my

stomach I

to liis

to scraM'l a letter with a trembling

to the chief in charge.

And now after

and agreeably

with other infirmities

month's

illness

— excessive weakness

with gastric attacks in the

;

— my lower limbs assumed a dropsical largeness.

was glad

to hear the boat

had arrived, that

reach some locality w'here a

little

good

might

I

nourishing-,

palatable food was obtainable.

Though

I

had been absent from Manyanga station

nearly twelve months, I cannot say that I was other

than depressed by the very

little

progress

made

in that

time.

Within sixteen hours we arrived

my

which

former secretary, Swinburne, had command.

and humble enough the goodwill was manifest.

young •

at Isangila, of

chief

station seemed, but at least

Within the station-house the

had contrived

of his surroundings

and

cleanliness.

the

bed,

A

a scrap

Poor

to

modify the harsh squalor

by the simple elements of neatness few yards of of

over

j^i'inted calico

snow-white sheeting over the

window, a narrow fringe of crimson

savelist,

hanging here and

distributed,

there,

wonders; and so rude had

tastefully

my

a cloth

existence for the last

three years been, that the effect of even this effort acted like a tonic

on

my

did

vitiated system.

small

XO PnOGBESS AT

CHAPTER

447

VIVI.

XXII.

liETURX TO EUROPE.

—Xo progress—Dr. Peschuel-Loeche —Zanzibaris sent —Good-bye to Vivi— Paul de Loanda—Appearance of the city— Absence of sanitary measures — The hospital and prison — Howard wanted — The Governor-General in the past — Neglected water and railway works En to Lisbon —^Ports of —Dis-

Keturn

to Yivi

home

St.

route

comforts of the voyage

Towards noon

call

—Madeira, the Pearl of

of July the

8tli

tlie

Atlantic.

the caravan ascended

the steep road that led up immediately to the

When

rock platform.

near the summit the

v ivi

hammock

was stopped, and a group of strange Europeans ap-

Among them was

peared to tender a welcome. middle-aged gentleman,

whom Herr

a

Lindner intro-

duced as Dr. Peschuel-Loeche. " "What

here

!

mission.

I

?

Good heavens

!

Dr. Peschuel-Loeche

still

thought he had gone four montlis ago on his I

am

surprised."

Yivi was in the same condition as I had built

Dec-Jan. 1879-80.

in

it

Only one magazine had been

added, and for that Herr Lindner deserves the credit.

The roads if

also

were much in the same condition

anything they were wois?.

The bridge over

the

1882.

xlxi.

THE CONGO.

448 1882.

vivi.

Nkusu had Jong ago been swept away, and no attempt had been made to build another. Man had been indififerent, but nature had not been idle. The mango trees

by

were growing

their verdure

finely, the

relieved the

Had

painted magazines. I

papaws were

and

tall,

glaring white of the

man

nature been assisted by

should have had cause to be grateful.

Dr. Peschuel-Loeche was currently reported to be an enterprising person, and believed to be a

He had

energy.

He

of Africa.

been of some note in

1873-1875, on the

Expedition of

man of intense tlie

German

south-west

coast

volunteered his services to the Comite

of the Association, and was despatched in December

1881 to Tivi, whence he was to obtain thirty-four picked

men

the interior.

him

to assist to dwell

to

make an expedition

Two

or three

in his mission.

Europeans were deputed It is

unnecessary for

upon the causes that seem

the party.

His

staff

of preparation, were active, although I

and expedition, still

to

President

have arrested

after

had reason

some months

to believe that in its

March

mission.

Dr. Peschuel-Loeche appeared before

He

me

resting at Yivi, patiently in-

the expedition had departed on

credentials.

Loango and

to

me

with other

bore a sealed commission from the

of the

Association

appointing

him com-

mander of the Expedition du Haut Congo in the event of my being disabled by accident or by serious indisposition.

me

Dr. Peschuel-Loeche could scarcely have done

greater service than by showing this document from

the supreme authority.

To

a person in

my

state it

was

GOOD-BYE TO But

a reprieve.

VIVI.

44:9

have heen anxious,

for this I slioiild .

and worn myself out with fretting over

and slow convalescence.

condition

my

pitiful

have

should

I

.

.

dreaded the arrival of every courier from the interior,

he bore some grievous news necessitating

lest

But the legitimate

instant departure.

my

substitution of a

person of Dr. Peschuel-Loeche's attainments and well-

known

character for energy, coupled with his African

experience and scientific acquirements, satisfied every

my work

hope that devoted

To

spirit that

would be prosecuted with the same

had animated me.

learned doctor I imparted such necessary

the

information

and hints

for

guidance as would enable

him, provided that he was endowed by nature with a

moving impulse,

to realise perfect success.

encouragement and augury of Yalcke appeared with 225

success,

new

As

a further

Lieutenant Louis

recruits for the expe-

dition.

The the

services

first

of Albert Christopherson,

European

faithfully

to

serve

his

who was term

three years'

and honestly, were rewarded by

being

his

charged with the escort of the brave, hard-working, patient Zanzibari pioneers on their voyage home.

On

the 15th of July I

was conveyed down the

road of Yivi, placed aboard the Comite steamer Belgique^ and, with

cheers from

my

work ringing

in

many

rades in our late terrible

was quickly carried away by the sped

down

waiting for VOL.

I.

little

at

La

dark com-

my

ears, I

steamer which

the river to the steamer Heron, which

me

hill-

Mussuko. 2 o

was

i8S2.

July 8 vivi.

TEE

450

Four davs

1882.

later Tre

coy: GO.

were in the harbour of

Paul

St.

July 19. Loanda.

Loaucla, the capital of Angola,

^^^

that

liad

already

de-

This misfortune compelled a stay in the city

parted. for

steamer

Portu^-uese mail

the

where we found

a month, during which time I was comfortably

housed and kindly attended to by Herr Xieman of the Afrikaansche Tenootschap and doctored by Senhor OHviera, a noted physician of the skilful

Through the

city.

treatment of Doctor Oliviera and the pleasant

hospitality

of

Xieman,

^Ir.

I

gradually

recovered

strength, although the dropsical swelling of the lower

limbs prevented

A

me

from enjoying many excursions.

few paragraphs will dispose of the city of

St.

Paul de Loanda, although, being over three centuries old, it

has a famous history.

From

the harbour and sea the view

presents an aspect of importance.

a

row

The

is

noble,

and

city extends in

of substantial structures along the shore-line of

the harbour,

up the

steep red

bluffs,

and continues

over the summit, on which there are a number of detached and disjointed buildings of commodious length

and commanding prominence, stuccoed, washed with lime,

are

and coloured white,

three

resist the

to

solidity sufficient

cannon of past ages

;

but

ill

attacks

some acres of I

flat

mentioned

is

puny

modern guns.

a tremendous erection, covering

ground near the water

the

of the

and

adapted for defence

against the prodigious dynamic power of

The Custom House

There

view, possessing a strength

in

forts

zinc-blue, or yellow.

steep

red

bluffs.

side.

These are a

PAUL BE LOAXDA.

ST.

451

of the almost continuous sea frontage of the portion ^ ,

.

land, extending

material, the face,

Being of

from the Congo.

soft

clayey

have gnawed and eaten into

rains

its

on a close examination, you see that the

until,

bluffs are a series of precipitous earth

cliffs,

dangerous crevices and

fathoms deep.

fissures, several

showing-

In places that are unoccupied by houses, this state of

dangerous ugliness

has caused painful

ever,

it

time,

when

timate, laid out

immaterial

is

slave-trade

tlie

Once upon

troubles.

was

at its height^

with

The

the

nefarious

abandonment

of

the

policy of England.

slave

and

inhuman

and

vessels,

was

and became

roofless as

ment of the

streets

rains swept

down

Paul's

the punishing

fell

out of repair,

they are to-day.

was

The pave-

Year by year the

forgotten.

the sands from the bluffs, and deeply

buried the streets.

The

year worse and worse

;

ruin, unchecked,

the sand

the harbour, so that

protected water

St.

Deficits in the colonial treasury

The churches

became frequent.

to

Civilised

slave-trade

commercial prosperity shrank before

state,

city.

Like falcons, the British cruisers pounced

upon and hunted the

into

legi-

Dark

the semblance of prosperity.

all

nations frowned upon

decreed.

and

a

Paul de Loanda was solidly paved, and

St.

days have, however, come over the

trade.

how-

in the city,

;

is

half

now

filled.

and no Governor with

was washed down

that

If

grew each

it

intellect

fine

expanse of

continues in this

and energy

rises

stop this decay, arising from the slovenly neglect

of a gift of Nature, there can be no doubt that in a few 2 G 2

i8S2. Julv 19.

Loamia.

THE CONGO.

452

no use whatever.

1882. July 19.

o'enerations the harbour will be of ^^

Loanda.

NatuVe, while untouched, kept that harbour deep for

The Portuguese, however, with a view,

man's use.

may

be presumed, of utilising what they had seized

upon before the law of meiim and tuum was defined as

it is

now, made paved

Of

to the harbour.

An

flats

so strictly

streets perpendicular

course the rains swej^t the de'bris

down

of the clay bluffs the

it

scoured pavement, into

the

below, and thence straight into the harbour.

expenditure of £50,000 would

remove the

effects

of this

be

required

to

madness of the colonial

engineer^ and perhaps £100,000 would hardly suffice to cover the expense of clearing out the sands in the

harbour.

They need not have

told

me

that

it

was

useless to

unearth the pavement, because the next rains would cover the streets to as great a depth with sand. is

true

enough

;

but the sand meanwhile

deniable nuisance.

Every

The lowest of the

inhabitants find

street corner it

use the sand of the streets as latrines.

is

That an un-

is

a nuisance.

convenient to

This

is

surely

an abominable system for the cathedral city of Angola to maintain.

Worthy

efforts

have been made

to plant

rows of

umbrageous trees and sweet-flowering shrubbery in the streets

;

but they are unable to thrive, owing to

the censurable neglect which leaves

them

exjDOsed to

injury through the filthy practices of the inhabitants.

Sanitary laws receive no enforcement of restrictions in this respect

is

;

and the absence

only too pungently

LOANDA HOSPITAL AND PEISOX.

There never was a city in the old or the

exemj^lified.

new world where so

wanted I

as

went

hroom

a

summit of the

to the

by the new

The

Loanda.

bluff,

from

architects

will

well.

and

airiness of the

first

It

building for

have

and will be

city,

and the

the place will

hospital,

diet

commodiousness

the

to

effected

a notable and

is

attendance

any comparison

bear

was

I

and builders

the

If

afar.

resi-

found.

are

magnificent feature in the modern visible

—was

where the

hospital they are

work worthily and

their

broom of power

modern Loanda.

in

it is

—a

dences of the dignitaries attracted

453

deserve

renown.

In the

front, grading, excavating

and levelling the

approaches to the hospital, were seen some hundreds of convicts from the mother couQtr}^

have no idea

I

of the nature of the crimes these people were guilty

them

of to render

But

seemed

it

me

to

compulsory expatriation.

liable to

that the

have been received in

numbers of men who under

this penal colony ought,

a wise administration, to have contributed something

towards

its

enrichment.

When

I

think of the number

of fair and rich valleys in the interior of Angola,

appears to

me

that

by

this

time good

it

work might

have been done by the establishing of agricultural reformatories.

One Sunday

many

of these

that, for such a

much

too

I

saw the exterior of the

prison,

where

people are confined, and I observed

warm

closely

climate, the poor prisoners

packed,

and

must

were

have suffered

1882.

Loaada.

THE COXGO.

454 1882.

Loanda.

Everv window was crowded with pale sallow

greatly.

wbosc black evcs glared despairingly

feces,

passer-by.

of a

A man

having the instinct and benevolence

Howard would probably

discover painful incidents

Loanda

iu connection with this

The Governor-Greneral's building for the

who

official

in former days.

I

Bastille.

palace

is

much

too fine a

generally occupies

not too fine for the type of

Angola

the

at

man who

it

but

;

used to govern

have never yet been within

mansion without giving a mental Requiescat

the

pace for the heroes of the old days

when

man

in

a Governor-

General of Angola

acted

bravery.

has the air of faded stateliness,

with

its

"Within,

it

as

a

of

and

spirit

time-worn crimson carpets, plush gilt-edged

couches and chairs, full-length portraits in gilt frames, laro^e chandeliers,

A

rooms.

and

suites of semi-eors^eouslv fitted

garden adjoining the palace presents a

dreary scene of neglect, unworthy of being looked at

The

twice.

but

it

jDublic

park or garden close by

seems to be hard work to get

its

is

better

verdure to look

fresh.

I recollect that in

convey water this

in

IS 77, there was an intention to

pipes

from the Bengo Eiver

but

very necessary public work has never yet been

accomplished.

The

intention even has become

mant through some means.

In 1877,

inexplicable

also,

Kwanza

cost a large

Eiver.

sum

of

dor-

to

raise

there were surveyors at

work

difficulty

in connection with a proposed railway to

the

;

Ambacca on

The survey was completed, and

money

for

outfits,

etc.

;

but the

ox BOJ ED THE

"

455

CfflXA:'

railway sclieme, as well as the water-supply project,

1882.

Julv 19.

has utterly collapsed.

tion

Loanda.

Paul de Loanda

St.

of 11,000

natives.

It

consisting

souls,

the

is

"

" cathedral city

reported to have a popula-

is

chief

— of

city

of Europeans

— euphoniously

and

termed

The

the province of Angola.

recognised northern boundary of the Portuguese do-

on

minion Loge,

Lat.

S.

18^,

Direct authority

miles.

is

it

over

of

distance

a

of Africa

whence

7' 50",

Lat.

S.

West Coast

the

the River

is

runs southerly to

GOO

geographical

exercised, so officials report,

over an area of about 300,000 square miles.

On

iTth of August, the mail steamer China

the

appeared at the port of Loanda, bound for Lisbon.

The China belongs

to a line of steamers,

by the Portuguese government,

to

subventioned

run from Lisbon to

Madeira, St. Vincent, St. Jago, Bulama, Prince's Island, St.

Thomas

guella,

Island,

Ambriz,

From

and Mossamedes once a month.

medes northward, they return, mentioned ticket

Paul de Loanda, Ben-

St.

ports,

Mossa-

via each of the above-

A first-class

back to Lisbon.

from Loanda to Lisbon, or

passage

vice versa, costs

£35

;

a second-class ticket costs £24.

Our

dates of arrivals

to Lisbon

Left

and departures on our voyage

by the China were Loanda

.... Thomas Thomas ....

Arrived at Ambriz

Island

St.

Left

St.

Arrived at Prince's Island

.

Arrived at Bulama

.

.

.

as follows

:

Aug, 17th, midniglit. „

18th, at 8 a.m.

„

21st,

„ 9

„

25th,

„ 9 p.m.

„

2Gth,

„ 7 a.m.

Sept. 3rd,

„ 5 p.m.

„

THE CONGO.

456

Departed from Bulama

1882.

Aug.

Sept. dth, at 2 p.m.

.

.

... Departed from Jago Arrived Vincent ... Arrived at

17.

Loanda.

St.

Jago St.

.

.

St

„ 6 „ 2 „

„

8th,

„

9th, „

„

10th, „ 9 a.m.

(Cape de Yerde Islands.)

Departed from

St.

Vincent

Arrived at Madeira

Departed „ Arrived at Lislx)n.

A

.

... ... ...

„

10th, „ o p.m.

„

17th,

„

„

,,

21st,

„ 6 a.m. „ 2 p.m. 5

,,

„

The China

voyage of 25^ days' actual steaming.

was, however, au unusually slow boat.

Xo more

than mere useful notes can be given of the

much

voyage, as I have yet

upon the

subject of this book.

At Benguella

the China had received on board about

from the

sixty or seventy Africans

informed that official,

to relate directly bearing-

these

were taken

people

and answered in the affirmative These answers were

asked.

I

am

before

an

interior.

to all questions

officially

understood ta

express a willing*ness to depart from Benguella voluntarily for a coffee

term of service lasting

and cocoa

Thomas.

plantations

of

five years in

the

of

Island

Each native received a fathom or

cloth to cover their nudity.

Arriving at

St.

to

Some required

gentle but firm coercion before

would descend

the

St.

of

Thomas

they appeared

be averse to leave

so

the

steamer^

they

into the lighter.

Six thousand bags of coffee were shipped on board the China from the port. St.

Thomas

is

a

perfect tropical island, eminently

picturesque, and fertile beyond" conception.

worthy a

visit,

though

it

is

It is well

scarcely advisable for a

PBINCI7S 2SLAXD. tourist to

457

endure a month's detention for the

privileo'e.

1882.

Aug. 21.

The time generally occupied by a steamer

may

be well employed

waterfalls,

in

in the port,

the

visiting

plantations,

and mountains.

Prince's Island

another of these extraordinarily

is

exuberant tropical islands, valuable spice of

all

the production of

for

fit

and

kinds, as well as coffee

The bananas, palms, and

jungle,

very edge of the

and

salt sea

;

grow down

cocoa.

the

to

to the highest pinnacles

of the soaring peaks the fertile

isle

seems clothed in

richest green.

The town,

or port,

undergoing the process of

is

abandonment, judging from what

have seen.

It lies

at the entrance to a valley which, but for its

seaward

I

gap, would have been intolerable to

narrow

is

mountains

And

it,

human

life

;

so

and so high, and sharply upward, do the

rise to a

yet there

is

height of some thousands of

feet.

presented an inconceivable depth of

vegetation that must exhale such oppressively

warm

vapours, that the physical constitution of the strongest

man must soon From the desire

yield

to

its

influence.

breathing-room, or from

obtain

to

enervating

the limited space in the valley, the townspeople have

houses over the low

actually constructed their •

which are

visited

by each recurring

power of humanity

to resist

has been patiently tested

is

tide.

flats

That the

the steamy atmosphere

proved by the number of

ruined churches, ruined forts, ruined houses, mansions, shops,

stores, cottages,

that

are

visible

everywhere.

Those not yet convinced of the inability of man

to

st. Thomas.

THE COS GO.

458 1882.

bear

it,

wliether

or civilian, are in sucli a state

official

Aug. 2G. Prince's

that onc's compassioH

The steamer from the

immediately aroused.

is

received on board 800 bags of cocoa

The

port.

stories relating to the voracity of

sharks in the bay remind one of incidents heard in

mid- Africa relating to crocodiles. This was the very

had been aboard

;

Portuguese steamer that I

first

and,

possibly from

ideas

derived

from reading about severity and of Portuguese

mili-

tary and naval discipline, I had the opinion that the

mercantile service

might perhaps have become im-

pregnated with just enough of this discipline to have

produced a wholesome

The world

wrong

is

I

effect.

altogether in

proneness to generalise

upon

was disappointed. rules,

its

isolated

from

The

facts.

Americans, for instance, possess the largest

its

civil liberty

in the world, but the discipline in the army, navy, or

mercantile service of the United States

In the mercantile service distance between the

But, with

tuguese, less

restraint

can

not

is

forecastle

measurable.

exercised

it

these

most severe.

Draconian, and the

and the cabin

ofiBcers

conceived.

of the

The

after

im-

ship

second-class

passengers occupied the seats of those of the

on the

is

reputedly severe Por-

than the

be

is

first

class

deck above their cabins, and the limited

promenade that ought class passengers

to

have been secured

to the first-

was always monopolised by the second.

These, permitted to

leave their

own

quarters,

and

intrude on the narrow deck, expectorated, smoked, and

sprawled, in the most socialistic manner.

Hundreds of

UNCOMFOBTABLE SUBBOUXDIXGS.

459

monkeys, gazelles, and other creatures,

parrots, filthy

1882. Sept. 1.

were placed in cages only ten

feet

away from

the saloon

They made such hideous shrieking

skylights.

and emitted such an ammoniac stench that the

which, for the convenience of the

stewards, Avas an

The heavy baggage of

open doorway.

passengers was stored here

;

and on mattresses thrown

half a score of half-naked white children,

us of our misery

by the moans,

we were

sounds, as often as

cries,

To gain

provoked by their own.

the first-class

the third-class females, and

bao'2:ao;e reclined

the saloon

on

cabin was the main deck-room into

first-class

over the

life

Adjoining the saloon

board was simply one of torment. of the

noises

who reminded

and complaints

the upper deck from

obliged to endure these sights and

we wished

to

exchange the misery

of being stewed in our cabins, for that of being com-

.

pelled to

walk over the catarrhic mucus expectorated on

the deck

by the underbred men of the second

The food was messes

and consisted of a

execrable,

(unexplored but by few daring

floating in palm-oil, wliich

class.

series of

Portuguese)

provoked the gorge.

Every

dish either floated, or sank sodden in the bilious-looking

unguent.

The

butter was

a pallid,

rancid-flavoured

oleomargarine.

After the indigestiljle meal was over, the criados, or servants, took the rice, calavances, beans, or bread, to the

monkeys, which might be called the fourth-class

])assengers.

As

on each side of scattered al)Out

they were frequently tethered apart the

rpiarter-deck,

their

food

by the stewards, and the unruly

was crea-

The ss.

THE CONGO.

460 1882.

Thess.

tiires in their

sportive playfulness did not improve the

Thus man and

scene.

underbred colonist

Least, tne

and the denizen of the woods, with their mutual

all

ship

parts of the

;

unwashed females below,

the squalling child, and the

made

filth

equally unpleasant.

To

avoid these extreme socialistic tendencies, one had to escape to the hot, close cabin, where, by thrusting

head into an open

An

was enabled

port, I

my

to live.

undisguised familiarity marked the intercourse

between the principal

and the stewards ; hence

officers

the latter were frequently sulky, and continually scowled

when

a mild request was

made

Were

for their services.

they unhappy convicts they could not have evinced a stronger dislike to a compulsory servitude than their faces

showed

to offices

which were sure

to be

rated before the passengers disembarked.

can or a British

captain_,

remune-

An

Ameri-

with a few iron belaying-pins

within easy reach, would have restored order in the

most peremptory manner

;

but Portuguese

officers

are

altogether too good-natured to use coercive measures. It w^as not so,

days of

By

however,

if

Camoens

relates truly, in the

Da Gama.

the time the China reached the beautiful island

of Madeira, I could walk a few paces, though

seemed weighted

w^ith lead.

At Read's Hotel

a royal breakfast worthy of an epic.

know

limbs

I obtained

The Portuguese

the value of this superb island, for they have

generally

made

of Rasselas rules.

my

it

as inaccessible as the

Happy Yalley

by means of frequent stringent quarantine

Three or four times

I

had passed by

it

before,.

THE PEAEL OF THE ATLANTIC.

461

but the yellow flag at the fore signalled that the ship

was under a ban.

If ever

a ship

deserved

approach the sacred shores of Madeira,

with

its

matchless disorder,

its

their furs

and

was our own,

unhealthy, almost over-

powering emissions of ammonia keys, animals,

it

not to

;

its

freight of

birds, bearing a stenchy

mon-

plague in

and feathers, and for the general disreputable

ajopearance of

its

passengers.

glorious Portuguese flag

However, we had the

waving proudly above

us,

from the masthead

its

wafting with rippling glee salutes to the royal standards

above the

dominate the Pearl of the Atlantic.

forts

which

is82.

Madeira.

TEE CONGO.

462

CHAPTER

XXIII.

COXDITIOX OF AFFAIRS OX THE COXGO. Tlie position explained to the

Comite

— A raikoacl

imperative

—Import-

—The prospects of expedition— Difficulty in

ance of retaining the guardianship of the territory trade

—Arrangements

for the

Upper Congo

getting an efficient assistant chief.

1882.

Europe.

Before many days were over

I

bad

laid before tbe

" Comite of tbe Association Internationale du Congo,"

wbicb by

tbis

duties of tbe

'^

time bad assumed tbe antbority and

Comite d'Etudes," by oral communica-

tions, tbe true condition of affairs

In

brief, I

on tbe Congo.

pointed out tbat by strenuous effort

we

bad acbieved more tban was intended by tbe modest and

pacific

Comite

December 1878.

d'Etudes

du

Haut

Congo,

m

" Tbree stations were to be built, a

steamer launcbed on tbe Upper Congo, and communications were to be kept open to tbe sea."

Tbrougb

tbe fidelity of sixty-eigbt Zanzibaris, and tbe faitbful co-operation

of a few

Europeans, five

stations

bad

been constructed, a steamer and sailing-boat launcbed

on tbe Upper Congo, wbile anotber small steamer and ligbter maintained communications between tbe second

A and third

I^

AILS AD IMPERATIVE.

A

station.

wagon-road had

been made

also .

.

at great

463

expense and tune between Yivi and Isangila,

and Manyanga and Stanley Pool.

We toils.

had now

The

what we had gained by our

to secure

work

object of our

hitherto had been to

demonstrate the practicability of communicating with the

Upper Congo from

beyond what we anticipated

Kwa

the confluence of the

from the

We

sea.

in 1878.

had succeeded

We

far

had reached

with the Congo, 440 miles

had found the people amiable.

we had found them even

several districts

work, which

We

the sea.

In

willine to

a reason for hoping that this willing-

is

We

ness will increase with better acquaintance.

discovered that no native

is

averse to trade

had

—that the

very name of barter actively excites the aborigines. Unless

we

are prepared to relinquish our discoveries,

and the moral success we have gained, we had secure

the

all

endow us

with, that

power necessary the benefits

that the native

rights

for

we might

I declared that the

Lower Congo and

accessibility will it

Congo basin was not worth a

the

appear

To reduce it must be made between

present state.

its

Upper Congo, when with

its

value.

I said, "

even prospectively valuable, you must

charter from Europe that you Imild that railroad, that

through which

it

the political

to obtain.

into profitable order, a railroad tlie

could

guaranteeing the permanency of

we had sought

two-shilling piece in

exercise

chiefs

to

you

shall

shall

its

To render

first

have a

be permitted to

govern the land

passes, that, in short, the guardian-

is82. October.

Europe.

THE COXGO.

464 1882. October,

sliip

Europe,

^^^t

of

it

shall not pass into the liands of

any power

JOUr OWn/'

No European government

can make such a railway

remunerative, for the simple reason that, in addition to to

the

fare

and freight money, there will be

duties,

imposts, over-regulation, over-interference, restriction here, restriction there, municipal taxes, li.a^hthouse

and

navigation dues, &c., &c., in a country where nature

has already imposed such severe laws that the unconscious

unpremeditated

them

of

incur

All these matters are duly considered

death penalties. Ijy

infraction

cautious traders.

The railway

will not be remunerative unless

men and

mercial

settlers will

the exploitation of the liberty

be induced to attempt

Upper Congo

basin,

by the large

guaranteed to them and by the large margin

of profits on trade secured to

immunity from oppressive mailing tricks of

officials

them by the absolute and from the black-

tariffs,

who have no

interest

anything save their own pecuniary advantages. railway must be Africa,

com-

made

in

The

solely for the benefit of Central

and those Europeans who are desirous

to trade

in that region.

"

The

first

phase of the mission

has been successful tion

;

is

over.

As

I said, it

we now know what communica-

can be preserved uninterruptedly between the

Upper Congo and

the consolidation of the work, cession of their authority route,

The second phase

the Atlantic.

from

and such other rights

is

by obtaining the conall

as

the chiefs along the

they

may

possess,

THE UPPER CONGO EXPEDITION. which could be obtained by others pioneered the way.

465

to oppress us

who

is82.

for

Europe

These rights are necessary

the existence of the Association, and for the success of

your grand projects of developing Africa, for without these

rights

you have merely sown that some

power may reap the harvest, and

toiled to

idle

invoke com-

pulsory abandonment."

The Comite were unanimously of The maps were brought

tion.

where action ought

As

in detail.

to be

the same convic-

and the

out,

immediately taken explained

the field was surveyed,

it

became evident

that to occupy the various strategic points

volve a large annual expenditure, that a of jyersoniiel would

increase

localities

would

much

in-

greater

be necessary, including

Europeans and African employes.

For

all

this the

Comite, however, expressed themselves fully prepared,

provided that I would undertake the charge of the work.

Though somewhat taken aback by the physical system

proposal, as

was completely deranged,

my

I at last pro-

mised to return to the Congo and complete the establish-

ment

of the stations as far as Stanley Falls

;

provided

that within a reasonable time, say two or three months,

some

efficient assistant-chief

would be despatched

minister the establishment on the

my

taught

me

Lower Congo during

on the Upper Congo.

absence

already that to leave

the hands of flighty-headed

to ad-

Experience had

my

young

principal base in

people,

who

recog-

nised no higher law than their

own

and

myself endless troulde

passions,

VOL.

I.

was

to prepare for

heedless impulses

2

II

THE CONGO.

466 1SS2

and continual

October.

Europe,

anxiety. ^^

^

needed a

I

.

.

•

to inspire respect in his subordinates

name would be

c

^

gentleman, of sumcient reputation and weight

ment

reliable

solid,

i

;

oi

^

•

judg-

one whose

a guarantee for stability of character,

whose word would be

as

good

as his bond,

and whose

past conduct might be taken as an indubitable proof that his future actions to him.

would be

Such persons,

hard practical

life,

so

new

also

highly creditable

to the necessities of a

that they at once confessed them-

selves crushed in the presence of every

that they encountered left

;

new exigency

or such, as soon as they were

alone to contend against the trivial troubles of

a tropic of

letter

had no other resource than

life,

resignation

to

their

chief,

to send

a

who might be

hundreds of miles away from them, and incontinently

throw up their command and run away could not be trusted with a responsible

important an enterprise.

given

me more

together. I

command

in so

trouble than all the African tribes put

They had

inspired such disgust in to

to

manhood than

me

be a boot-black

than to be a dry-nurse to beings

higher claim

Europe

These people had already

would rather be condemned

life

to

that

that

all

my

who had no

externally they

might be pretty pictures of men. If

my

experience of such

men had been

so

annoy-

when only 400 miles from the sea, what would be now when I should be nearly 1500 miles away?

ing it

It was, therefore,

absolutely necessary that

I

should

be represented on the lower river by a person

who

A GOOD SECOXD IN COMMAND.

Ill

not only could duty,

but

who

work 1

and loyally perform

himself, T

could

•

•

inspire

1

other

men

execute each his special trust and mission.

promised to send of which

my

me

467

to

his

in

loyally

The Comite

such a person, in consequence

stay in Europe

was

to be limited to six

weeks.

1

II

'1

1832. October.

Europe.

TEE COXGO.

4G8

CHAPTER XXIY. TO STANLEY POO L. Lisbon

Banana Creek

to

—Dismal

—I

news

— Massala

expedition to Kwihi-Xiadi

—Yivi

demoralised

—

Elliott's

shot by a French trader

—

—An

peacemaker Lieutenant Van de Yelde's mission to Kwilu-Niadi Appearance of the Saggitaire Eelief of Elliott's expedition Bad news from Leopoldville A starving station Feny tratfic on the Congo— Kindly attentions from the natives

enormous

fine

act as

—

—

—

Leopoldville neglected and gi-ass-grown

An

imfortunate young

—

ofl&cer

—

—

—

— Canoe

!

—A sad state of matters alarm of —A

accidents

false

murder! A suicide Ke-establishing friendly relations with the chiefs— An important conference^ and its results —Noble work of English missionaries. 1882. Dec. 20.

Vi^_

SAILED

I

awav

for

-^

CoDfi-0-laud ^

from the Port

of

^

Cadiz,

in

the

November, 1882.

This steamer had

few days previously with fourteen six

on

steamer Harhaway,

tlie

left

officers

23rd of

England a and about

hundred tons of miscellaneous goods, consigned

the Expedition of the Association

for

Internationale du

Congo.

On

the 14th of

December the Harkawar/ entered

Banana Creek, and on the 20th of the month arrived in Yivi, with physical

and freshened during the expedition.

my

five

energies

I

recuperated

months' absence from

riVI DEMOBALISED. But, alas

469

what dismal news was borue

!

to

me

as I

made myself more and more acquainted with the state The German gentleman of affairs in the expedition!

who had

presented such high credentials

force of character

and earnestness of purpose, well-

known experience and scientific

acquirements, had gone,

he had departed from the Congo

month

before

had

in rank,

home nearly

its

leader.

The

also disaf)peared

En

;

La

the chief of Leopold-

;

homeward

the chief of Isangila had hurried

the captain

;

Belglque had been dismissed by somebody

Avant had been robbed by a

;

idle at

landing-place of Leopoldville, as useless as a log;

by some odd

engineer,

freak,

a clerk or storekeeper, and to be acting

was doing duty

manner not very conducive

an

Yivi as

interior,

to peace

and

and order.

chief had been shot at while passing

Mowa, which was supposed retaliating

at

the

some person was reported

with unlimited powers in the

The temporary

the

spiteful miscreant of

her steam-valve, and had ever since lain

in a

four

chief of Vivi, the second

the second chief of Le'opoldville had fled of

a

the third in importance, was rusticating on the

ville,

coast

for

The expedition had been nearly

!

weeks without

for potent

on Mowa.

have been worse.

to be a justification for

Yerily the news could scarcely

There

tvere

numbers of other

dis-

agreeable incidents unnecessary to rehearse, because

mention of them could not be made without bringing into this to

book the names of those

screen

whom

it is

from the slightest implicatiou.

my

desire

That the

conduct of the expedition had not been a happy one

1882. Dec. 20. viyj,

TEE CONGO.

470 1882. Dec. 20. vivi.

may

from the departure en

be imagined, however,

What could be expected subordinates when the responsible

masse of those in authority.

from a number of head

retires

haste

from his duties with such undignified

?

During

my

absence Yivi, which was always remark-

able for the latitude

the

it

assumed even when

Upper Congo, was now

a jDarty that

had attached

itself

was on

most demoralised

in a

The steamers had been taken

state.

I

to

possession of

the expedition,

Lower

originally for the service of transjDort on the •

by

Congo, but which now, by some inscrutable process of evolution, dominated the expedition effectively

withholding

the

all

steamers

charging the goods where

below the landing-place.

was thus wasted

station

from

and

boats

dis-

pleased, generally a mile

it

The in

entire strength of the

the

removal of

goods

landing-place to Yivi, and the temper

this distant

of the

and

by

and employes was much embittered

officials

accordingly.

This required correction immediately, but

most unpleasant

seemed

to

task, as the

was a

it

crews of the steamers

be persuaded that they had changed masters.

However, by dint of

insistence, the steamers

were com-

pelled to deliver their cargoes at the landing-place of

Yivi as before, and the great strain on the station

was thus

staff of the

relieved.

The next important work was the equipment expedition under Captain J.

Niadi

district

to

Gr. Elliott

to the

of an

Kwilu-

found a line of stations from the

MISSION TO KWILU XIADL

471

nearest point on that river to Isangila Station, along its

lower course to

force of recruits

The

mouth.

its

arrival of a

was very opportune.

Captain

new

Elliott's

numbered some seventy coloured men, and four

force

European

assistants

trian ofScer,

— Messrs.

Yan Schuman, an Aus-

Mons. Lehrman, a Croat, and two Eng-

They marched from Vivi on

lishmen.

the

13th of

January.

The

object of this mission

ciation a

was

to secure to the Asso-

wide stretch of inland country and an extent

of coast line between the French territory on

Gaboon and

the d'houchure of the

alternative route to the

The

Congo

the

as a free

Upper Congo.

chief of Le'opoldville, discovered rusticating on

the coast,

was despatched back

caravan,

and on the 14th of January the medical

to his post

with a small

director of Leopoldville

and Stanley Pool started up-

river with four whites

and a caravan of forty-eight

coloured men.

On

the

loth of January Yivi was startled by a

report that a

French

in charge of our

trader, in the

employ of the party

Lower Congo transport

service

had

shot Massala, a native lingster or interpreter attached to

Massala

the station.

is

a native of Vivi, a fine well-

behaved man of calm and equable temper, who was well

men

known ;

to be guiltless of

any antipathy

to white

but, like the natives, fond of a glass of grog,

though quite too dignified ever It is doubtful

for a wliite

to

l)e

seen inebriated.

whether he would perform any service

man without

at least

some small recognition

isss. Jan. 13. Vivi.

THE CONGO.

472 1883. Jan. 15. vivi.

payment according

or

is

human

Altogether Massala was most

everywhere.

nature

Tins

to stipulation.

harmless, and at the same time invaluable to us for the

and good-tempered manner with which

faithful

looked after our mutual interests.

he

Fortunately the

man

wound was

not mortal, but as he was a

portance,

caused a great excitement in the Yivi

it

native community, and

down

for

safe in

the

guilty trader was, however,

our hands; and after the doctor had declared

wound

not dangerous, the natives were

be

to

induced to leave the case in fair trial,

on the the

and the

side of the

amount of the

They went and

selves,

poured

at first a large force

The

vengeance.

of im-

chiefs

my

hands.

were told that the wrong was

white man, and were asked to state fine

they expected.

aside for a private parlance

in half

demand, which

There was a

among them-

an hour they brought the following

I publish to

show how severe are native

laws against the shedding of blood

:

£ 100 whole pieces of cloth

muskets

s.

d.

20 30

„

flintlock

„

kegs of powder

25

„

machettes

20

30

„

blankets

„

demijohns of

„

boxes of gin

„

i^ieces of

rum

handkerchief

liliscellaneous articles

30 60 15

200

£430

The

trader declared his total inability to pay such a

sum, but as the natives insisted that they would take

AN ENOBMOUS no

less, I

had

to obtain

FINE.

473

from each permission

to pass

judgment, and an agreement that they wonld consider themselves as mutually bound to accept It cost

to

£24

me two 4s. Od.,

hours'

work

to reduce the

and as a propitiatory

which had done the wicked deed was might be broken in incapable

above sum

the revolver

also added, that

and thus rendered

pieces,

doing future

of

gift,

as final.

it

The

harm.

it

for ever

verdict

was

accepted, but the natives also insisted that the Euro-

pean should be banished the land

for ever, otherwise

he might commit a similar crime. Treaties were

made

chiefs conceding to

This was not

also

with

the surroundino-

all

the Association sovereign power.

difficult to obtain,

we were

as

in ex-

tremely intimate relations with the north and south

bank natives

in the

neighbourhood of Yivi.

Fully expecting that the qualified officer to take

on the Lower Congo, Yivi to Lieutenant

Comite would send some

charge of I

Van

valuable interests

its

entrusted the

command

of

de Yelde until the arrival

of a person from the coast

who had

tained the promise of this position.

applied and ob-

Unfortunately, a

few months had to elapse before he could be available. Meantime, of the young and inexperienced, though willing, officers within call. Lieutenant

was the most

On

Yan

de Yelde

eligible for the post.

the 22nd of January I

left

Yivi, trusting that the

minute instructions deposited with the chief would tide

me

over the

difficulties wliich I

connection with this station.

constantly dreaded in

There

is

an old proverb

isss. Jan. 15.

yw\.

THE CONGO.

474 1883. Jan. 22. vivi.

wliicb says "

when

away the mice

the cat's

There was no actual proof of the Association

service

tliat

any

did play

will play.'*

officer

in

the

but there was

;

abundant evidence that the lower stations did not advance in improvement

and that they

;

suffered greatly

on the upper

in appearance in comparison with those river.

On

news was received that

arrivino- at Isano-ila

would be wise not

to rely

too

much on

many days

that

the overland

Taking into considera-

expedition to the Kwilu-Niadi. tion the

would be occupied in the

journey from Isangila to the Kwilu-Niadi valley,

would be as well

to

supplement

direct to the Kwilu-Niadi.

was chosen

to

it

it

it

with a sea expedition

Yan

Lieutenant

de Yelde

conduct this mission, and the Association

steamer, the Heron, was j^b^ced at his disposal to con-

vey

his

men and

was appointed

stores,

to

while a deputy-resident at Vivi

j^^rform

Lieutenant's

the

station

duties in the meantime.

Lieutenant officers, sailed

Van

accompanied

de Velde,

on the

5 th of February,

by two

1883, for the

Kwilu, where he arrived on the Oth of the same month,

and proceeded

and

for the

bourhood.

to negotiate for

ground

sovereignty of the territory in the neigh-

In a

short

time he had purchased the

houses, stores, and tents of a person

Here he

On

erected his station and called

the 12th of February a treaty

pambu, the senior chief of the the

mouth

for a station,

oi the

named Saboga. it

was made with Mani-

district of

Kwilu, on the

Rudolfstadt.

left

Chissanga, at

bank, by which

THE FOUNDING OF RUDOLFSTADT. tliat cliief

ceded his sovereign rights to the Association Active, and most loyal to

Internationale du Congo. his duties, Lieutenant treaties in succession

of

the

debouchure

tinuously

475

Yan

—

of

de Yelde negotiated several

first

the

at Chilungu,

on the right

Kwilu, and

River

upward along both banks

to

the

con-

rapids,

situated twenty-eight miles from the sea.

Eeturning

to Rudolfstadt in the

beginning of March,

LIEUTEXAXT VAN HE VELDE.

he heard from Loango on the 9th of the same month, of the arrival of 'the Saggitaire of the French that

On

port.

the 11th

means of

his

Capilaine

Cordier

officer

boats,

was enabled

of the

the

1

Uh

rumour bruited

March he was

render

efficient

able,

by

service

to

and partake of

young Lieutenant.

of ]March Lieut. in the

in

by which that

Saggitaire,

to enter the river,

the hospitalities of the

On

to

of

navy

Yan

de Yelde heard a

neighbourhood of Loango of the

isss.

Rudoif-

THE CONGO.

476 1883.

March

Kudoifstadt.

men at a place who were said

arrival of white

11.

.

distance

called Kitabi,

some

.

inland,

to

be in distress.

Rightly surmising that these whites must belong to Captain

expedition, the energetic officer lost

Elliott's

no time in equipping a

boat

expedition

for

their

relief.

In April Captain Elliott arriving with his party at Rudolfstadt,

was able

to

relieve Lieutenant

Yan

de

Kwilu, upon

Yelde from his temporary duty

at the

which the Lieutenant returned

resume the superin-

The

tendence of Yivi.

played by Lieutenant

to

abilit}^,

Yan

and

activity

on

de Yelde

zeal dis-

this

Kwilu

mission was remarkable, and I fondly hoped that I had discovered, after

much

weary wait-

painful search and

ing, a valuable assistant for effective

L'nfortunately, however,

after a

work

in Africa.

few months' stay

Yivi, his failing health compelled

him

to

return

at to

Europe. Captain

Elliott,

during his journey from Isangila to

Rudolfstadt, had left an officer and a few of the stations

along the course

established at Stephanieville,

A

men

at each

of the river, to be

Franktown and Kitabi.

continuous stretch of territory along the entire line

secured by treaties duly signed in presence of European witnesses,

was a proof of how

this officer distinguished

himself.

On From mand

the 4th

of February I arrived at

this station

Captain

Hanssens

Manyanga.

received com-

of an expedition to depart immediately for the

Upper Kwilu-Xiadi^

his instructions being to establish

ESTABLISHING COMMUNICATIONS. a

4:11

communication between Manyanga and that

line of

isss Feb. 4.

river,

and to continue his explorations downwards mitil

he had effected a junction with Captain Elliott's party Stephanieville.

at

later,

Captain

Hanssens, some months

sent in a lengthy and interesting report of his

extensive explorations, by which I was informed that

by means of the

gungu

stations at Phillippeville

Upper Kwilu-Niadi was

the

in

and Bulandirect

com-

munication with the Congo. Lieutenant Yalcke,

whom

I

encountered at Man-

yanga, was despatched along the south bank of the

Congo, to make treaties with betv»'een

Manyanga and

all

the principal chiefs

Leopoldville, and to found a

station at Sabuka's, from which, without further cause

of alarm and anxiety at Leopoldville, provisions could

be sent to that entrepot of the Upper Congo. also

He was

charged to take with him the boilers of the new

ho^i A.

I.

A.,

which some

careless official

had

left at

a

wayside village, where they had been lying some

months rusting. Couriers were also hurried forward to the chief of

Leopoldville with

make

treaties

orders to

proceed

immediately to

with the chiefs of Kinshassa, Kimbangu,

and Kimpoko.

On

the

7th of February the steam launch Royal

was mounted on a wagon

for

transport overland

to

Leopoldville.

Aiiother engineer was also dc.'simtchcd on the same
with a

suflicient escort to assist

in the completion of the steam-launch

A.I. A. (Asso-

anyanga.

^,l^

THE CONGO.

478 1883.

ciation

Feb. 7.

.

^Manyanga.

the construction

Internationale Africaine),

.

of

my

which had Leeu unaccountably delayed during absence.

Lieutenant Parfoury was detailed with forty to

commence the

men

construction of a good road on the

Manyanga and

south bank of the river between

the

Pool.

Lieutenant Grang and Captain Anderson, with 164 coloured men, I reserved to assist

me

in hauling the

steam-launch Royal by our old road on the north bank.

On

the 27th of February

at the Tnkissi River,

we

arrived with the boat

where I received the astonishing

news from the chief of Leopoldville that the was nearly starving already been

for

want of

thirty-eight

this

As he had

days at his post from his

coasting excursion, I thought

have withheld

food.

station

it

singular that he should

important information so long, as

Yivi possessed food enough to supply any number of stations.

Numerous

their goods

their

inland

caravans, to

Isangila,

too,

were conveying

the boats jDcrformed

voyages regularly between Isangila and Man-

yanga, and

we were

not short of

men nor

unwilling

that Europeans should be dieted according to the most liberal scale,

provided the chiefs of stations would only

give sufficient notice of their requirements.

At Nsangu natives

Ferry, a large caravan of independent

from the coast crossed the Congo from the

south bank, bound for Mfwa, north bank of Stanley Pool.

The

chief of the ferry, under the influence

of

BAD NEWS FROM LEOPOLDVILLE. sociability inspired

canoes, informed

by our

me

479

joatronage

liberal

of his

he frequently transported

that

500 people a week with their stores from the south side to the north side,

and

nortli side to the south side,

As

rubber to the coast.

as

many

people from the

who were taking

ivory and

this business of ferrying

been continued for years,

I

have often wondered

the ferrymen did not appear

had

why

more prosperous than the

inland chiefs.

The transport of a thousand Congo implies for

at least a

people

the

across

hundred voyages of a canoe,

which they would receive a hundred pieces of In a year the transit receipts de-

cloth per week.

rived from native

5200 pieces of

custom alone ought to amount

cloth, which, at a dollar each,

to

would be

equivalent to $5200, while the caravans of the Asso-

might increase the sum

ciation

prosperous business, the

this

all

Yet with

to $7000.

Nsangu

chiefs

and

people exhibit no improvement in j^ersonal appearance,

nor any increase of population, such as

Kintamo trade

for instance,

present

where the

substantial

shown

is

in

effects of a profitable

proofs

in

the

increasing-

numbers of armed people, claiming Ngalyema, and Makabi

On

as their chiefs.

reachinu: the

summit of the hif^hland on the

south bank, another courier was received

from the

chief of Leopoldville, bearing a letter which implored

me

not to bring too

would be impossible countiy was

—

if

to

many men

to that station, as

supply them witli Ibod

not actually hostile

—

;

it

that the

so indifferent to

isss.

xsano-u.'

THE CONGO.

480 1883.

Uo^o\'i-

our existence that no native ever visited the station

Although the chief evidently had cause

to write in

such

a despairing manner, I was utterly unable to divine

why

such an extreme change had come

over

the

country, because the only information obtainable was

through

this gentleman,

and he confined himself

reports of imminent starvation

"

No

tea,

no

coffee,

The bread had

for

to

the Europeans

no cocoa, no milk, nor anything."

was

risen to famine prices, the country

scoured round about by parties of foragers,

who

gene-

rally returned with only a scant quantity, insufficient to last until another foraging party could appear

with

a fresh supply.

Yet in our immediate neighbourhood wherever we

moved

there

there were

was abundance^

as

an evidence of which

twenty-five goats in our

dozens of fowls.

On

camp, besides

the receipt of this sad

intelli-

gence from Leopoldville, two dozen goats and baskets of fowls, with a few luxuries for the sick Europeans,

were

immediately despatched, along

with

a

letter

urging Lieutenant Valcke to hasten the establishment of his supply-collecting station at Sabuka.

Our

wagon broke

down

frequently,

compelling

annoying delays, the most serious taking place

Mpalanga

crossing.

at the

Rains of four seasons had com-

mitted havoc on our former road, and young shrubs

and reeds had thriven over our once cleared path. But, notwithstanding these various impediments,

were advancing on Leopoldville

we

at the rate of 2 J miles

per day, with our heavily- weighted wagon.

UNREALISED ANTICIPATIONS.

The nearer

grew

I

approached Stanley Pool the warmer

From

the kindly attentions of the natives.

distances they

481

came

to

welcome me back into

long

and

assurances

of

of this real I

was

sheep,

still

their

and

fowls

—and

friendship,

so

the

heartiest

that in presence

and marked amicability of the

more perplexed

to

natives,

understand the gloom

and depression under which the chief of Leopoldville laboured.

On

the 19th of

March Lieutenant Yalcke wrote

that he had established himself at Sabuka,

me

to

and was pur-

chasing at the rate of 400 rations per day, besides pigs, goats, fowls, eggs, bananas, I

marched

Anderson

&c.,

and two days

to Le'opoldville, leaving Messrs.

to conduct the

later

Grrang and

Royal and the hauling force

to the landing-place. I ville

expected to have seen great changes at Leo23old-

— to

have seen a thriving

beautifully laid out,

station,

and plants and

and gardens

fruit-trees in

a

flourishing condition, for since the latter part of April,

1882, I had been absent, establishing

Mswata

station,

exploring Lake Ijeopold IL, and in Europe recuperating.

I

had fondly calculated upon the

effect of forty

or fifty labourers united in the joint cause of beautifying, improving,

the

direction

of

and cultivating the township, under a

sharp,

enterprising,

intelligent

European, during a period of eleven months.

My

imagination had revelled in the scenes of beauty pictured, of walks shaded

VOL.

I.

it

by rows of year-old banana 2

I

Liopoidville.

their

country, bringing with them acceptable gifts of food

—goats,

isss.

March 19

TEE CONGO.

482 1883.

stalks, at least

10 feet high; a broad and imposing

Leopold-

approach to the

station, embellished

viUe.

bery

along

;

a vigorous

by hedges of shrub-

flanks budding fruit-trees in clusters,

its

young

papaws, plots of pine-apple,

forest of

with promise of a surfeit of delicious odour of flowers

;

while in the background would

acres devoted to the

more humble but

lie

and

fruit

the broad

useful vegetables,

such as sweet potatoes, Indian corn, beans, cassava, and

what

Indeed, in

not.

my

much

bed-time, having not

hours between sunset and else to do, the lapses of

time

had often been lubricated with these beauties which

my

vigorous fancy had conjured up. " For," I argued with myself, " else

it

must be

What

so.

can they have had to do, unless they have been

building a series of fine residences and store-rooms

They have

lived in

some manner, and surely they have

not been asleep for eleven months

And .1

" !

now, on entering on the terrace of Leopoldville,

my eyes around my first feeling, I

quickly cast

vision,

?

and

stupefaction,

an inability to

conscious that

all

I looked

to enjoy the delightful

remember, was one of realise

the details, but

upon was very sad and

disheartening.

Grass everywhere: grass on the terrace, luxuriantly thick on

its

slope, grass

of the wall of the one residence, a

the unbarked

way

in

tall

grass

the crevices

damp green on

tree pillars of the veranda, the broad

of the native

town

like a grass-covered

marsh,

above which the roofs of the huts could only be seen

even from the commanding position of the

terrace.

A

LEOPOLD VLLLE GRA SS- GROWN few acres of cassava, perhaps a

bananas inde-

liiindrecl

apart and widely scattered, not

pendently

jDapaw stalk in view, and possessed

483

/

a single

the semblance of a garden

if

any virtue within

ricketty fence,

its

it

was of

such a mythical and modest nature that the prolific grass completely shrouded

it

At one end

from view.

of the terrace there was a palisaded enclosure intended for a redoubt,

which

I

took to be evidence of unfriendly

relations with the natives. Le'opoldville

been added

was

to the

stood intact as ously,

though

Since the block-house of

finished, only

one small magazine had

The native town

European quarter. had been

built eleven

months previ-

in a dilapidated condition,

and smothered

it

by the wild and stubborn

tall grass.

was an unmistakable

of abandonment.

not have been worse had

ville could

ever since I

left in

April, 1882.

magazines internally, poldville

air

is

Externally there

it

Leopold-

been uninhabited

When

examine the

I

I find that the treasury of Le'o-

783 brass

at its lowest ebb: there are only

rods in the station, sufficient to purchase three days' provisions for the eleven Europeans and 212 coloured

men now

at the station.

There are numbers of bales

and boxes of beads, but these have

to be

bartered for brass rods before purchasing bread.

The

of cloth

caravan book, with

its

ture of caravans, informs

notices of arrival

me

and depar-

that there need have been

no such agony of scarcity as the empty food shelves exhibit.

Down

at the grass-grown port the

whaleboat

lie,

rust-blistered

En

Avant and

and almost ruined. 2

I

2

For

i883.

itSopoid-

"

'^'

TEE CONGO.

484 seventeen months

1883.

March

21.

Leopold-

tlie steel

boats have lain in the water;

.

the slime covers their sides; they

looked at apparently.

The boatmen

have never been confess that they

have never been drawn out of the water

to be scrubbed

and painted.

OUK WEST COAST EMPLOYES.

The new steamer A. ago,

41

I. A.,

many weeks from From three long.

is still

feet

put on the stocks months completion. to

four

She

is

only

engineers, with

several coloured artisans, have been engaged the last

month on

As

her, but the progress

for the political state,

is

very slow.

it is still

worse.

There has

A SAD STATE OF MATTERS. been a quarrel about something' very ,

,

.

485

and 111

both

trivial,

,

.

whites and natives have seemingly agreed that they

had best leave one another severely alone, in which impassive warfare the whites have suffered severely. It

who can

has been a mutual challenge as to

survive this forced, unsociable situation

best

and while the

;

natives are abounding in plenty, the garrison of Le'opoldville has

fallen into a

wonder that the implore sufi'er

me

No

disgraceful poverty.

chief of the

thinks

station

fit

to

not to bring the force of wagon-haulers to

from the famine

at Leopoldville.

Thus, instead of having entered upon a order and plenty, with the view of which tive speculations

had fed

me

fair

my

land of

imagina-

with pleasant dreams and

glorious prospects, I had been abruptly introduced into

a scene of disorder, waste, nations.

and peevish recrimi-

strife,

Every man struggled

to free himself

from

the imputation of being involved in the blame, but

without success, since every one of them had certain duties to perform, with one all-paramount responsibility, viz.,

that of looking out for himself, which he could not

have done as a passive spectator

to this

decay, ruin,

and discomfort.

The extraordinary impassivity and most imprudent tlioughtlessness,

which had drawn on them the miseries

of impending famine and the contempt of the natives,

cannot be better illustrated than by relating an episode

which had a

tragic ending.

A young Austrian

cavalry lieutenant

of aristocratic connections in Vienna, I

named

am

Kallina,

told,

isss. ^l-'^rch

eager

21.

Leopoid-

THE CONGO.

486 1883.

March

21.

Leopold-

on the Upper Congo, succeeds

to distinguish liimself _

in

arrives that he

Leopoldville.

is

A

The day

canoe from Ngalyema.

purchasing a

about to depart from the port of

small and narrow dug-out

is

manned

with a crew half native and half of our own employes,

A

long black portmanteau stands on

end in the

its

This

pirogue, to serve for a seat to Mons. Kallina.

military officer

a

is

tall,

stalwart

young gentleman,

a grenadier corps than for service in a small

fitter for

canoe as an explorer

;

unconscious that there

but he, unwittingly of is

any

this,

and

unfitness in his circum-

stands helmet in hand, bov^-ing and smiling

stances,

his adieus to the gallant

have gathered

group of military

at the landing-place to

bland amenities of

He

civilisation.

officers

who

exchange these

takes

place,

his

with cavalry boots reaching his knees, a heavy, doublebarrelled

rifle

strapped over one shoulder, a cartridge-

holder slung over the other, and a brace of revolvers attached to his waist. shore

simultaneously

While the military doff

their

military grace and precision,

not

officers

helmets with

one

shadow

on

true falls

athwart their minds to indicate to them that they

have done the

least

wrong, or have been guilty of

almost criminal thoughtlessness in thus permitting a

worthy though manner.

Not

rash

until

young man

an hour

later,

to

depart in this

when

there

is

loud

shouting at Kintamo, a rushing hither and thither, as

many

canoes dart from Kintamo's water-side towards

the centre of the river, do they feel the least anxiety or alarm.

They

are then told that Lieutenant Kallina's

niPRUDEXT OFFICERS.

487

canoe was capsized at the CliSy Point, in view of the station,

Illthe young omcer and and fv«

that

^

tour of his crew

have been drowned.

Not many days to

after this calamity

go up the river

Point his

frail craft

in a canoe.

an

officer started

Coming

was met by a strong

KalHna

to

which

current,

almost swept him and his crew over the cataracts. This

young gentleman, distinguished otherwise

for

me

that

manly

qualities

when on

desperate

after

terra jirma,

informed

paddling across the river, he barely

succeeded in saving his party and himself by snatching wildly at overhanging trees on the north bank, while the cataract roared like thunder a few yards below

him.

Another after

a

suddenly affecting nautical

officer

buying a canoe and nailing a keel on

sail,

and adventurously

breeze up the river

floats

alone.

all

away

tastes,

rigs

it,

before a

fair

But presently the breeze him

treacherously leaves him, while the current bears resistlessly

down

His people, alarmed,

river.

man

pirogue and proceed in search of him, and hours

through the lustily

cry

fast

for

a

after,

gathering darkness, they hear him

they paddle

aid, as

down an

inland

channel halloing to him.

As

if this intolerable

ville did

not require

day's notes of the

condition of affairs at Leopold-

all

my

best efforts, the following

24th of March, three days after

arrival, will serve to

show

tlie

desperate nature of

my

duties about this time.

"

March

24th.

isss.

March

fi-

n

Despatched Lieutenant Orban with

21.

Leopold-

THE CONGO.

488 1883.

March

24.

Leopold-

thirty-one "^

men

marclies up by i J forced

to Vivi,' to liurrv ^

a caravan with brass rods.

"He

takes

orders also

depart for the

Luemme

for

Lieutenant Harou to

River, and build a station on

Twenty

the coast in the neighbourhood of Massabe'.

men

are

to

be delivered to him by the Chief of

Yivi.

LIEUTENAXT ORBAN.

*'

Lieutenant

Grang

men

to

Royal

to

departs with sixty-four

Matoma's village to haul the

boilers of the

Leopoldville. " Received

news to-day

that a Mons. Callewart

had

been killed and decapitated at Kimpoko, the station near head of Stanley Pool on the south bank."

"I send rations

"

thirty

men

to

Sabuka

to bring a store of

from Lieutenant Yalcke."

The Chief of Leopoldville has been

proceed

instantly

with

instructed to

whale-boat with twenty-five

RELIEVING LEOPOLDVILLE.

men

489

to Kimpoko, to searcli out the truth of this « 55 '^ /-in

rumour

about Callewart.

"This evening

I received

by courier

letters

from down

Second chief at Yivi declaims against asking

him

manage the

letter is

and

duties of chief, second chief,

storekeeper, and declares he will not

His

— suffer who may.

remarkable for impoliteness, and

is

replete

with gross accusations against a number of people. "

The

charge of the transport of a whale-

officer in

boat from Yivi to Isangila, having fifty-eight

men with

him, writes that he cannot, and will not carry the boat

with such a limited number.''

"The

his letters -

"

He

marine self

Manyanga

Chief of

charge of Yivi

is

acting an

demanding

also

writes

officer,

writes *

that the chief in

infamous comedy,' that

supplies are unanswered."

Mons. Luksic, an Austrian

that

has committed suicide by shooting him-

through the head.

" I

have now

letters

for

to sit

up

till

past midnight to prepare

to-morrow's courier, to

various gentlemen

down

on the expedition

that

Were

river. I

cheer

up

there a

these

man

could believe capable

of

executing his instructions faithfully and intelligently,

Yivi would be the place for him is

away on

tenant

;

but Captain Hanssens

his expedition to the Kwilu-Niadi, Lieu-

Yalcke

is

performing

valuable

service

at

Sabuka, Lieutenant Grang distinguishes himself in a different field, Lieutenant

where he may

assist *

24.

Leopoid-

river.

to

isss.

March

Orban

is

en route to Yivi,

the clamorous and defiant second

Which turned out

to be false.

TUE CONGO.

490 1883.

March

chief of

that

disturbed

miicli

Lieutenant

station.

24.

Leopold-

Eugene Janssen

up

is

municated with.

In

at JMswata,

my

neighbourhood are young

What

and inexperienced people.

and

efficient officer of

and cannot be com-

is

wanted

is

a strong

my

note and years, able during

absence to manage the ever intractable Europeans at Until he comes I must have patience."

Vivi.

On the

1st of April, after

having thoroughly informed

myself of the causes which brought about this of

condition

the

word that

received

and two days

later

escort of thirty

Since

station,

my

chiefs of

chief

his resignation

he was sent

of

Leopoldville

would be accepted,

to the coast

under an

men.

arrival, observing the severe silence of the

Kintamo,

feeling that

the

pitiful

I strove to re-establish that

had animated us mutually before

parture in June, 1882.

On Sunday

kindly

my

de-

evening, the 8th

of April, I indited the following notes in

my

diary

:

" About one p.m. the native chiefs of Leopoldville district

Kimpe

— Kimpalampalla, G-anchui,

—appeared

Mballa, Kinswangi

on behalf of the Wambundu, and

presently Ngalyema, Makabi, Mubi,

chu

and

old

large following.

Ngako, came from Kintamo with a

The meeting was very

after congratulations

livered

the

Manswala, Gan-

by each in

upon

my

his turn,

cordial,

and

return had been de-

Ngalyema proceeded,

orator of the occasion, to utter his views

as

upon

the causes of the unpleasant relations existing between

the different peoples in the as

usual in detail the

district.

incidents

He

recapitulated

attending our

first

EE-ESTABLISHIXG FBIEXDLT BELATIOXS.

491

down

acquaintance, and the ceremony of brotherhood,

numerous episodes which marked the advent

to the

of Bula Matari a second time to the neighbourhood

and then began to expatiate upon the

difiSculties

maintaining friendly relations with the Europeans

had been

of

who

in charge of Leopold ville, after I had been

left

conveyed away in a condition which they regarded as

He

hopeless.

thought he had been treated very

and the native

chiefs

corroborate every

neighbourhood would

of the

word he

ill,

said.

One

'

after another

men have treated me as if I were a common slave. One said he would kill me, another said he would fight me, another said he would drive me away One who calls himself Tembo (elefrom Kintamo. phant) asks me if I know who he is. No, I say. elephant, and Ngalyema must Well, I am the the white

remember

because he knows what an elephant

that,

who

does to small people

are insolent.

The elephant

crushes them thus and thus, and he dances with his

show me what he

feet to

will

do what he wants with me.

men — a

little

fellow, he

to the station to

is

sits

behaved badly to us times to

you

left

kill

me.

here,

now

exchange brass rods for

and there

;

As

all

and

he

said,

do not

—

if

we came

cloth,

screams

treats us like little

one before us now, he ;

he

has threatened

whom

no one could get along with him.

you may

go,

has

several

for the chief of the station

any of our children came near him do,

if I

Another of your white

not here

at us, pushes our people about,

slaves

do with me,

If

— there, that will

go away, go away quick.

At

isss.

LeopoW-

492 1883.

Leopold-

last

TEE CONGO. and people away from

I kept myself

would have nothing

to

have not been here

f6r

not have come

now

if

and

liim,

do with your white men.

now

six

I

moons, and I would

you had not sent

for

me

to hear

these things.'

Turning around I asked

him

to the officer accused

to give

me

by Ngalyema,

his version of these complaints,

of which I had not heard before.

He

replied in a frank

and straightforward manner

as follows

" * There says, but

may

be a

he has exaggerated these

order to prove to you that he

not at

all

trouble.

is

For instance,

matters in

But he

troubles

is

arrogance

It is his

really the cause

is

my

trifling

blameless.

blameless in this matter.

and pig-headedness that

what Ngalyema

truth in

little

of this

began with him

at

the time of Lieutenant Kallina's death by drowning.

Ngalyema's people picked up Kallina's private port-

manteau

floating

and

about,

on

hearing of

it,

I

demanded that he should return the box.

Ngalyema

would not return the property unless

him a tax

I paid

of ninepence on each article within.

That was the

first quarrel.

"

a

The second was when

visit

the chief of division paid

of inspection here, and wished to see Ngalyema,

that gentleman refused to

was sent

as hostage to

come unless a white man

Kintamo during

volunteered to go and be the hostage. the village,

unarmed and

search me, and fumbled

his visit.

On

alone, the people

me

I

reaching

began

to

about most rudely, and

AN IMPORTANT CONFERENCE.

493

men

to surround

then Ngalyema ordered a hundred

T me, which they did, making savage •

1

1

'

^

1

1

me

gestures at

with their swords and spears,' while Ngalyema was received at the station with every

coming a guest of but "

officers

The

do not

That was a small

his rank.

third quarrel between us arose from

who had brought

us a

Some

father.

quarrel between the

would yield

to keep as sureties that the other

had nothing

do with their quarrel

to

act

to

in

this

upon these two children

arbitrary manner, and seize

We

Ngalyema little

had provoked Ngalyema

chiefs

affair,

and seizing upon two

boys, sons of Ngamberengi,

message from their

be-

be treated as I was treated.

like to

striding into the station

two

mark of honour

;

to him.

this station

was our property; the ground of the Association free,

and acting upon that idea

I chased

is

Ngalyema,

caught him, and swung him round, and snatched the

him

children from

rougher than

and

offence,

and perhaps

I intended,

if

must accept

;

but that

you judge me

my

this

escape with a whole skin

if

tricks to a district

where

Nobly spoken,

excited

;

there

Good

nations.

is

my

I

the extent of

is

am

sure to do the

arrogant savage will not

he carries his slave-making

am

chief."

dear

;

no necessity

but do not be

for talking about resig-

gracious, cannot I ask about the truth

of a matter like this without

you

all

flying into a fury,

and at once offering your resignations and your missions

?

my

have done wrong, you

resignation, for I

same again, and perhaps

"

to

may have been

I

You must know

all this is

new

to me.

dis-

I

isss. April 8. Leopoid-

THE CONGO.

494 1883. Aprils. Leopold-

never heard about hostages, and I would rather

myself a hostage than ask any a thing I

would not care

many

too

you

do myself.

person as a

are a brave man,

and

sir,

of j'our

ofifer

keep the peace."

sacrifice to

and said gravely, yet in kind and softened

said,

and

You and

words of the white man.

I

he,

You have

to be friends.

have heard the

and

all

strong and hard-hearted to one another.

way to be known better. the

These vouns* white

They

are that

brother Bula Matari,

why

white boys say

?

who would

did any

harm

I should

you were

know

you, and you safe with

your

need you have cared what

?

'

'

Xgalyema,

Xow

why

that they had

did

that I have

talk of this trouble.

men who have been

not

if

they

Supposing that you had been

ask you,

all

is

how would you have answered me

your brother's people

you must drop

This

be very angry with them

to you.

fighting with them,

been head-

do not

You must have known

a father

when

men

strangers to

Knowing

them.

of you,

all

You, Xgalyema, should have

brotherly.

as I do.

I

Xot one of you have followed the

have been wrong.

way

TTambundu,

chiefs of the

Lave heard what vou have

you

tones, for

me

"Ngalyema, and you,

right

chiefs,

had considerably

the frank and noble reply of Mr. affected

do

honour

I

then turned to Ngalyema and the assembled

I

to

to

remember

I

your moral courage, and the

for

me

with

attending this giving of

accidents

fatal

You

hosta,Qres.

to

man

offer

you

fight

come back

All the white

quarrelling with you shall go to

^.V

other

jDlaces,

IMPOETANT CONFERENCE.

and you

make peace with

must

Elephant, for you have misjudged him.

Sunday,

do not work except when

Tve

friendship.

come

to

If

you

-^95

the

To-dav, being

we

are

making

come back to-morrow we

all

will

an ao'reement, bv which no one can hurt

his

fellow without incurrins; the ano-er of every one."

The next day a chiefs of the

treaty

was made uniting

Wambundu, Kintamo and

all

the

the Association

in a confederation for the preservation of peace in the

region south, and west of Stanley Pool.

The

chief

sovereign power was vested in the Association, which reserved arbitrate It

was

to itself the

on

all

power

to

declare war, and to

questions likely to endanger the peace.

also further stipulated that

no foreigner could

enter any district belonging to any of the confederated chiefs witliout a

Association,

was a bond

recommendation from the

who would

ofiicers of

the

guarantee that such stranger

fide trader, or that he

was not a

political

agent. It

was

also stipulated that the flag of the Association

should be hoisted over the villages of the signatory chiefs

every Sunday morning, and upon

festive occasions, notice of wdiicli

hoisting of the flag from the

all

great or

would be given by the

summit of Leopold

Hill.

Three days later negotiations w^ere seriously com-

menced with the the

terms

chiefs of Kinshassa,

of the agreement with Kintamo, wished

A

to share in its privileges.

entered into, and an officer there,

who, hearing of

who was withdrawn

verbal agreement was

was temporarily placed

a few days later

;

but after

iss3.

Leopold-

THE CONGO.

496 1883. April 12.

Ldopoidville.

the lapse of sufficient time for mature consideration, 9-

garrison was finally accepted, Mr. A. B. Swinburne

being adopted as the chief of the It

station.

should have been observed before that two English

religious missions

had established themselves

one to the right, and one to the

ville,

left

at Leopold-

of the station,

The one

on ground belonging to the Association. established on Leopold Hill

Mission of the Baptist Church national,

Mission.

and

;

the other

is

Arthington

undenomi-

Congo

styled the Livingstone Inland

is

Mr. T.

J.

Comber

Mission, and Dr. Sims

gentlemen take a sions,

called the

is

warm

is

presides over the Baptist

Both

chief of the other.

interest in their respective Mis-

both have been remarkably energetic, and both

have especially distinguished themselves

for

zeal in

looking after the important interests entrusted to their charge. goal

;

It has

been a well-contested race to the great

the Baptists were the

Stanley Pool portion Baptists

;

Dr. Sims was the

of the

;

had arranged

to

win the race

first to

first

to

to

navigate any

The

waters of the Upper Congo.

were the

Stanley Pool

first

above

occupy a station

but soon after, the Livingstone Mission for a station

Baptists were the

first

to

even

The

at the Equator.

launch a steamer; but the

Livingstone Mission were engaged in building their

steamer at Leopoldville at the same date that the other

was launched.

It

has been a singular religious duel

between two missions of the Protestant Church

;

both

mission chiefs alternately have gained the advance post,

and have exhibited remarkable individual

apti-

NOBLE WORK OF ENfJLISH MISSIONABIES.

Where and when

tudes.

this

unique race will end no .

-^

one knows,

teo

it

will

,

long as these missions are supported

by the subscriptions of porters,

497

their faithfid

and loyal sup-

no doubt be continued, until the Congo

basin has been over-run, conquered morally, and

over to the Christian fold.

Meantime the

won

author

wishes the two leaders in this daring spiritual cam-

paign against moral darkness

renewed courage, and abundant

more wisdom,

light,

They

success.

also

have passed through dark days, and have been sorely afflicted ing:-,

;

but each month the horizon has been clear-

and the prospect

is

to-day than they could

infinitely brighter before

have anticipated some time

airo.

VOL.

r.

them

2

k

isss. April 12.

Leopoid-

THE COXGO.

498

CHAPTER XXY. TO BOLOBO.

—

—

Improving Leopoldville Departxvre of tlie Upper Congo expedition Its eqiiipment Kimpoko, "Good View Station" Gambiele, chief of KiiniX)ko —Stanley Pool again Papa Gobila IMakoko of ^MIdc* Fumn Xtaba "Bula Matari, don't you go to ]ND:)e Growth of Mswata

—

— town — The

—

—

—

—

—

beer of

Mantu

heart of equatorial Africa

—The

Lawson-Lufini river

— The

real

— A splendid region—My former repulse by

men — Two Palm Point —Mnrder of two of our men — Bolobo ia finding Europeans —A populous neighboiu'hood—

the wild district

Difficulty-

— Ibaka, the senior chief of — A bellicose garrison—A jealous chief,

adapted for intercourse with natives

Bolobo

—Incidents in his

—

life

and conjugal infidelity " Blood must be shed for blood, or money must pay for it " A tardy payment Dangers of beginning war

—

—

Bolobo cession of 1883,

Xo

territory.

sooner was Leopoldville relieved of

its

retarding

April.

Leopold-

influence in the person of its indifferent chief, than

it

assume the decently progressive aspect that

it

began

to

should present as the entrepot of the Upper Congo.

The grass was place long

;

certainly not permitted to smother the

the native town

transferred to another locality to

was pulled down and

more on the

direct road

Kintamo, the redoubt and the ricketty fence

appeared

;

the terrace was enlarged right and

dis-

left to

permit more space for buildings, and the cutting was

deepened into the

hill to

allow more air

;

the terrace

2

K

2

THE CONGO.

500 1883.

i.eopoid-

were faced with stone

slopes

occupied it

the

mangoes

for

site

and

of the

native

old

papaws

Europeans began

a large banana garden

;

were be

to

planted

raised,

of other improvements were

town, and in barracks

;

and a number

commenced, which pro-

mised greatly to improve the sanitary condition of Before I

Leopoldville.

Congo,

I

had the

the station of the

left

months

before,

approach

satisfaction of seeing it

that respectable appearance

and which

should have presented

it

the

position in

its

Instead

of stations required.

Upper

of

detailing

rank

foragers

every other day for scouting the country in search of

women, and

the native men,

food,

children conveyed

food to Le'opoldville's terrace plaza, to vend

it

in

open

market, either wholesale to the chief of the station, or to barter

it

individually to such as appeared to buy,

either dwellers in the

When

I

town or natives of Kintamo.

saw the terrace

common market-ground,

j^laza

I

being employed as a

became conscious that the

victory against aboriginal conservatism was won.

I

believed that I enjoyed more real pleasure in watching

the groups of buyers and

sellers

pursuing their

in-

tending bargains within the shadow of the old Block-

had in any other event

house of Leopoldville, than

I

that transpired this year.

For before any place can

aspire

to

the

dignity

town on the Congo,

of a

must possess a market-place of one of the

little

our well-being.

own

I

felt,

when

successes

I

its

own, and

considered

saw two

scores of

was

essential to

Not having many women I

this

it

of our

women and

TEE STABT FOR THE UPPER CONGO. squatted in

children

the

501

enjoyment of

perfect

ini-

had become endowed with

limited confidence, that I

the honour of paternity, and not for untold wealth

would I have permitted that confidence with

nished

the

of

exhibition

least

to

be

tar-

distrust

or

violence.

The A.I. A. steam-launch had been repeatedly,

and

tried

effectively

finished, painted

two or three times.

The Royal steam-launch was almost brand-new with Tiewly-coppered

hull,

and minutely repaired. The

Ell Avant had been on the stocks, and

was scraped,

scrubbed, polished with emery-paper, and

An

three times over.

re-painted

ornamental cap had been placed

new

above the funnel,

again,

masts had been rigged, and

furnished with

new

better than

a cabin sufficiently large to stow the

all,

sails

goods and house myself; erected, as I

awnings were put up, and,

;

wdiile

had a vague idea that the sun-roasting

received on Lake Leopold cause of

On

my

instruments had been

II.

1882 had been the

in

terrible illness.

the 9th of May, 1883, every article

man

every

way up

En

in his place, as the

is

at 6 a.m.,

is

aboard, and

Avant leads the

towing the whaleboat.

The Royal

follows next, with a large GO-foot canoe alongside

A.

I.

A, comes

last.

The inventory En

Avant.

of the cargoes

Cloth

is

as follows

.......

Cowries

Flour and potatoes

Beans

21 bales.

GOO

Oil (engine)

:

lbs.

10 gallons. .

.

140

lbs.

70 „

;

the

isss.

^^

y.

^^^^^'

THE CONGO.

502

^Mixcd provisions

1883. Jlay 9,

Leopold-

....

1 ease.

Sugar

50

Biscuits

Tea

30 „ 25 „

Cofifee

40 „

ville.

Cognac Mess chest Bedding

1 case.

1 case. .

.

250

.

....

Boyal.

Ammunition

4

Fine cloth

1 trunk.

7 men.

10

„

Crew

10

„

Brass rods

56 loads

Garden seeds Crew

2

Engine

9 men.

5 gallons.

oil

26 men. 50 gallons.

oil

Brass rods I.

A.

650

Cloth

lbs.

26 bales.

Engine

5 gallons.

oil

4 kegs. 4 cases. 22 „

Salt

Boat provisions, European

.

Up-river station provisions

.

4

Biscuits

Velvet caps and hats

Fancy beads Medicine chest

.

6 cases.

....

Carpenters' tool chests

1 case. 1 package.

.

.

Eip-saws, cross cut -saws,) ? hand-saws ) -,

Picks, axes, spades, shovels,^ adzes, hoes Nails, spikes, screws

„

1 case.

.

Cutlasses

,

3640

19 cases.

Passengers

Engine

=

cases.

4 men.

Ammunition

A.

cases.

Passengers

Passengers

Canoe.

lbs.

GO „

Crew Whale-boat.

lbs.

2 cases.

Instruments

Cooking utensils

„

1

140

Medicine Personal baggage

lbs.

4 „,

,

,

.

2 loads, .

j .

.

6

„

Passengers

8 men.

Crew

6

„

lb.=.

EQUIPMEXT FOR THE UPPER COXGO.

A

503

well-equipped expedition of eighty men,

with

about six tons of material, consisting of every necessary article for the

construction of two small stations, and

means

provisions and

for the sustenance of the garri-

An

sons for at least six months. colonists could not

have axes

We

have been better provided.

them

for

equal number of

to

hew

the

hammers

forest,

to

break the rock, spades to turn up the sod and to drain the marsh, or shovels to raise

mow

tlie

rampart, scythes to

the grass, hatchets to penetrate the jungle, and

seeds of

all

and hammers, furniture

Saws

kinds for sowing. nails,

to rip planking,

and cabinet-makers'

tools to

needles and thread for sewing

;

all

make

the cloth

and besides

in their bales, twine to string their beads,

these useful articles in the cases, there are also countless

"notions" and fancy knick-knacks to appease the

cupidity of

the most powerful

desire for

adornment

the white

man been

to eat

and grow

enough medicine

chief

in the breast of

neglected

fat

there

;

upon while

to cure a

in

or

excite

the

Nor has enough for him

woman. is

good

hundred fevers

health, for each.

and It

were well that these things should be told perhaps once in a while to the reader, that he

idea of

means.

what planting These

a sensible

stations in distant places really

articles

cuously into the boats

may have

;

were

a due

not

thrown

«nd equitable

promis-

j^roportion

of each had to be calculated and measured out per head of white and black per

month

;

otherwise turmoil and

peevish discontent were certain to be heard in a very short time:

isss

May

9.

Leopoldville.

THE CONGO.

504

was

It

1883.

May

^

.

^

Kinshassa.

water in the Cono-o now. We could ^ havens in shore, under the overhanging

liiffli

9.

travel in

,

still

boughs of

we

o'clock

of

its

trees,

.

,

screened from the heat.

At

eight

passed Kinshassa, nestling under the shade

grove of mighty baobab, the low grassy bank

near the village being lined by a wall of black bodies,

who gave

us a rousing cheer as the

view round to

its point,

show our

and steamed

appreciation.

past,

From

here

flotilla

hove in

dipping ensigns

we

bore across

-m- '-^'^*%--

^

^^"-C'^- ^^^

VIEW FEOM THE TEBBACE BELOW

K15IP0K0.

the wide Congo, and, clinging to the southern shore of

Bamu, steamed

steadily through deep water, past dense

forests of sturdy

young

along the edges of

fat

timber, and

green reedy

then skimming

flats, until,

a

little

we were abreast of Kimpoko Station, to which we now headed in order to rest for the night in such comfort as we could find in a place that was after

4

p.m.,

undergoing process of construction.

GOOD VIEW STATIOX. ouo-bt to be called "

Kimpoko .

from

since

it

of river.

stretching

A

we have

It

to a

vast length of

hills

Bamu

De

Station,"

miles

five

Island

is

of clear water,

fifteen miles

away.

seen north, and far

on the island

rise

the purpling

Brazza's future settlements

•,

while

VIEW IRO.M KIMrOKO.

to the Cliffs.

eastward

is

the cliffy crescent

known

as

Dover

Inland from the river's verge a few pillared

hyphoene

stand

rustling

their

fan-like

leaves,

and

Itetween these, at a distance of a mile, rise low hills, iiacked

by higher

liills,

beyond which

spurs of the uplands of the

Nfumu Nguma.

isss.

May

grey horizon

tallest trees

enfolding

Good View

.

a sight of a really noble breadth

shows fully

down

beyond the

.

505

rise the

outlying

Banfunu, governed by

9.

Kiaipoko.

THE CONGO.

506

9.

KimiJoko.

munity he

it

—a

com-

tribe of the Babari, or river people

— and

is

was who was

is little

studied

falsely reported to

A man with

Callewart. there

the chief of Kimpoko's

native

Grambiele

1883.

May

to

own

liis

have murdered

but slight force of character,

commend him

to our esteem.

He

has

interests well in the invitation extended

THE UPPEE CONGO ISSUING INTO STANLEY

POOL.

{From a photograph?) to US.

He

is

placable now. because his senses are fed

with seeing, and far too often tasting, the good things

we

possess.

To

satisfy

been a costly matter. kept,

time

him and Nfumu Nguma has

Nevertheless, if the peace

is

only

and better acquaintance may modify

ardour for begging;

the future

that are at present invisible.

may

his

disclose virtues

FAPA GOBILA.

507

The next day wo leave Kimpoko, and a few hours later have entered the gates of the Upper Congo, at

On

the head of Stanley Pool.

the evening of the third

day we are alongside of the landing-place of Mswata Lieutenant Janssen, brought here thirteen

Station.

months ago, has by His residence

is like

ance, with a cool

is

completed his station.

a genteel farmhouse in appear-

and shady porch, where he holds

and chats twice a day with Papa Gobila,

joalavers

as he

this time

now

his or,

called, Grantiene.

This old gentleman, stout of form, hearty and genial in manner,

came up breathlessly and held out

and welcomed

hands, absence.

He

and

insisted

long-

his

expressed a positive opinion that

the fetish of the year,

Bula Matari after

his fat

was

it

Wabuma which so sickened me last on my yielding him a promise never

to live with them.

We

halted a few days at

Mswata

to purchase food for

the up-river journey to Bolobo, our next destination.

During the morning of

this

day

about sixty musketeers, and a few

Fumu Ntaba

slaves, arrived.

is

Fumu

women and the

of the Bateke' of Mbe' district, which days' journey

Ntaba, with domestic

principal

lies

chief

W.N.AV.,

five

from the landing-place on the north

bank opposite Mswata.

A

great deal has been uttered within the last few

years about

Makoko

of Mbe, and of

Fumu

in order to thoroughly understand the

two to

chiefs in one

and the same

Ntaba, but

power of these

district, it is

necessary

compare Makoko with Ngako, the hereditary chief of

isss.

May

10,

^,u^;,^i

THE CONGO.

508 ISSiJ.

May

12.

Kintamo, and Fuimi XtaLa

\^-itli

Xgalyema, the actual

chief.

Alswata.

Makoko

is

Bateke', but b}'

age,

the hereditary chief of the north-westeru

being infirm through years, and dulled

he has become, by

common

consent, super-

PAPA GOBILA OF SISWATA.

annuated, and the sovereignty has been assumed by the Regent, for

of

the his

Fumu

seclusion

female

Ntaba. of

his

attendants.

^lakoko

is

now

only

fit

hut and the ministrations

And

although he

may

appear in j)ubhc, and receive a sympathetic respect

FU2IA NTABA.

from the chiefs In council,

it

Xtaba that obtains ooedience

Makoko

tion felt in proving to

the dictum of

Fumu

isss.

any

hesita-

Mswata.

that his days of

power

is ;

509

nor

is

there

are over.

Along the

and mountain

riverside

between

slopes

Stanley Pool and the Lawson River there are only four villages, two of these being nearly opposite to

The

i\Iswata.

and antelope

lions, elephants, buffixloes,

found as we voyage on the Congo between these are

points

Ntaba, within

that

proofs

also

the

territory

days' journey

five

Fumu

of

from the

tw^o

Congo

must be singularly denuded of population, and the paucity of people on the north bank of Stanley Pool is

already

known

Fumu Xtaba white

men

to us.

asked

to live at

me when Mbe,

I

was going

as Lieutenant

promised they would be sent to him.

Yalcke had

Under

circumstances, I could scarcely explain clearly

had not already occupied a pressed

me

to

station

make a promise

to

on

to send

altered

why we he

his land, but

meet him and talk

over at Malima, whither he intended to pay a

it

visit in

about two months. " And," said he, " have no fear about Malima and

Mfwa.

I

come.

I

want

all

white

to

come who

like to

have made blood-brotherhood with Valcke

my

he and his people are build

men

freely in

friends,

and they may

any part of the country,

either

by

the riverside or inland." I

I

comforted

Fumu Ntaba

should " see about

with the

]»romi.se

that

;

it

" and, exchanging ]jresents,

THE CONGO.

510 1883.

Mswata.

we

vowing

parted,

and immutable

eternal friendship

one another.

fidelity to

Gobila

Gobila^ genial, aldermanic

had been listening quietly

to

— Papa

Gobila

never uttering a

all this,

word, but an hour after came to me, and said

"Bula Matari, fool if

but a

you

will.

Mbe

nothing in

why we

it

you

costs

but elephants and

should have

a poor country.

will be a

Xgalyema were

it

was

with Gandelay, on

Fumu Xtaba

on

of Kintamo, Nchulu of

Kinshassa, myself and people, have there, because they

is

yourself

were not that

left Mbe', if it

you

There

Ask

lions.

I j)refer to live

side.

will cost

here.

the south side of the river, than with the north

you

;

Your bread

had.

l^e

more than

three times

Mbe

to

There are no people there, nothing

ivory to

little

you go

don't

all

run away from

all

one another at

killing

We

Mbe', continually fighting, fighting.

have now

all

got rich, and have slaves, ivory, and plenty of wives on this side, but if

fair so

you

long as you give

for

p-et

we

to Mbe'

it

If

all ?

it

them

to

you think

I

but what will

;

speak

over to Ganchu, and try to buy even a

and

They come

see for yourself.

send

my

canoes

side as

and Xfumu

and

to

of l>read every see

you came up

The Banfunu lions

full

Did you

Malima.

should lose

Ob, they will take your cloth and speak

everything.

you

we went over

?

any

Xo

for food,

week

to

!

has too

that

'\^^ell,

side

are

many

buffaloes to live long here."

go

of Ijread,

and

I

Mfwa and

lions or buffaloes

of the south

Xguma

me

roll

falsely,

on

proves

this it.

too numerous,

people

to

allow

GBOWTH OF

511

town of Mswata had greatly grown

Grobila's

thirteen months.

Gandelay

3ISWATA.

It

now

his

chiefs to build a

small town above Mswata, close to the lesser chiefs

effect

The

river.

below the station seemed to be extendinoo

their hutted areas.

All this I naturally took to be the

of the residence of our people amongst them,

because, being non-producing, yet having abundance of

means

to purchase the necessities of subsistence, their

daily wants stimulated the natives to greater efforts.

On

the 15th

About

the

flotilla

left

Mswata

Bolobo.

for

9 A.M. it passed the confluence of the

Kwa

with

the Congo, and proceeded up the main river.

From

this point, as

we ascend

the Congo, which has

a width hereabouts of one mile, or one and a quarter miles,

up

and a half miles in some places, we

to one

have Uyanzi on our right, forming the the river, and Ml)e on our

left,

left

bank of

forming the right bank.

Uyanzi begins with a tame aspect of low ridges, sloping

gradually but grandly to the

Kwa

and the

Congo, and robed with a grassy covering of tender green.

The

village of Mantu, close squatted

Congo water,

really

makes a pretence

to

by the

look some-

thing different from ordinary villages by a broad path kept clear of weeds, leading from the landing-place to the palm-shaded village.

landing, will

The observant

traveller,

on

soon discover that this appearance

is

.

delusive; the pleasing impression formed

by anything

approaching to neatness and cleanliness soon vanishing,

when ho

isse ] 12

May

contained about 1,500 souls.

had sent one of

also

in

finds that the inside of the place

is

not

Mswata.

THE cos GO.

512 1883.

May

jiaintu.

Beer wliich

a wliit better tlian elsewhere.

15.

tastes like

.

stale lager

is

a great manufacture

here

colour

its

;

water darkened by a slight quantity of infusion

is like

of tea.

It

is

made of fermented

millet,

more

or

generally of fermented juice of sugar-cane, and stored

Doubtless they find

in great black ten-gallon pots. it

a remunerative manufacture, as customers from the

Kwa

and Stanley Pool are frequently found

Beyond Mantu the long tender green more and more shortened,

slopes

until finally the

drop sheer into the depths of

tlie

river,

here.

become

low ridges

and jut out

in

harsh and naked rocky points.

Viewing the opposing shores of Mbe, the eye com-

mands long curving sweeps hills,

of half-wooded slopes of

rising to 300 feet in height, with sufficient deptli

and breadth of green woods over them, however,

make them

to

present a more refreshing aspect than that

furnished by the treeless ridges of Uyanzi

We

hoisted our

sails,

as there

breeze on the river, and stretched

was an eight-knot

them out

flat,

wliich

greatly relieved the engines, and increased our rate

of progress.

At noon we were

opposite the confluence of the

Lawson-Lufini Biver and the Congo. flows into the

main

river

At which

its

Congo from the west-south-west.

comes from a northern

mouth

disjoint

The former

it

the into

The

direction.

Lawson has a few small

islets

two main branches, and under

the lee of these a wide sandy bar has been formed,

which necessitates vessels

to

edge away towards the

TEE LAWSON-LUFINI BIVEB.

513

shore of Uyanzi, until they have well passed

about 250 yards wide above the confluence, and

It is

of a

tlie river.

much

Congo.

brown

paler colour than the ochreous

It is considered to be the

Bateke of Mbe, ruled by

Fumu

of the

boundary between the

Ntaba, and the Bateke',

ruled by two chiefs,

named Muijuba and Kamolondo.

A few miles

the hilly ridges on the right bank

above

it

recede from the water-side, and form wide folds, half

enclosing broad and fertile

Uyanzi begins

basins.

again to show grand slopes of distant grassy ridges.

A

cluster

grove,

isolated

span the river's margin or an

of palms

specking

darkly the

green of the

surrounding grass, denotes the presence of villages,

and as these features are on a

we do

lars-e scale

not see

much improvement in the scene on either side until above Chumbiri, when the Congo widens rapidly from a width of two miles to four miles.

On

passing

Rocky

this broader width,

Point,

and emerging in view of

we may

be said to have entered

on the Upper Congo.

fairly

Hitherto

we have been

voyaging since leaving Boma, and the estuary-like breadth of the Lower Congo, in a pass or

Boma tain

to

defile.

From

Yivi we steamed between two lines of moun-

heights

velled in a

;

between Yivi

narrow valley

trough of the Congo

;

and

Isangila

we

tra-

parallel with the chasmic

between Isangila and Manyanga

our boats ran up the crooked ravine-like valley of the river

;

between Manyanga and Leopoldville we marched

along the edge of the deep fracture in the highlands

through which the Congo continuously roars; then after VOL.

I.

2

L

i883.

:Mantn.

THE CONGO.

514 1883.

May

a slight relief obtained by the lake-like expansion called

15.

Chumbiri.

n

^

•

t

Stanley Pool,

we have been

two mountain

lines of

as far as the

Rocky Point above Chnmbiri,

emerge into

more or

confined again between less picturesqueness,

to finally

which the volu-

lacustrine breadth

this

np

minous waters of the Congo have scooped out of the plains

and lowlands which we now behold extended

on either hand, with scarcely any extraordinary hill,

until

The

we

shall

approach the Biyerre

real heart of equatorial Africa,

rise or

affluent.

this central

is

whose bountiful and unparalleled richness

fertile region,

repay the

and labour required

of

soil will

it

within the reach of Europe.

toil

It

to

bring

was not the up-

lands of the maritime region, with their millions of ravines, tops,

and narrow oven-hot

and limited

bits of

and bald grass

valleys,

grassy plateaus, with here and

there a grove of jungly forest scattered like islets

the grassy wastes, that I strove for

;

was

it

square miles of almost level area, which

amid

this million

we may

call

the kernel, that was worth the trouble of piercing the

235 miles of thick rude mountain husk which separates it

from the energies of Europeans, who, could they but

reach

it,

would soon teach the world what good might

come out of Africa. In

my

voyage down the great river

but a dim glimpse of the mainland.

in 1877, I

To

had

escape the

unaccountable ferocity which then menaced us as soon as

we came

in sight of the wild

refuge in the

men, we had

mazy channels between

however, our mission

is to

the

islets.

to seek [NTow,

build in the midst of these

31 Y

FORMES REPULSE BY WILD MEN.

wild men, but before

we can do

so

we must

515 seek for

isss.

May

them, confront them cahnly, persuade them

and win

their clamours, soothe their unquiet hearts,

them

ways and

to gentle

read the narrative of

To

arts of peace.

hush

to

those

my journey Through

Dark

the

'

must

Continent,' this work, as the sequel of that story,

doubtless be interesting.

I shall

who

endeavour not to be

tedious.

From

the low E,ocky Point on the right

Chumbiri,

we

cross over to the left

bank with the

like river dotted

with distant spectral

above us

infinite

to

an

sun reflecting of which

lie

sea-

extending

islets

There

horizon.

bank above

is

a blazing

brightness on the river, the waters

its

smooth and motionless as a mirror.

as

The breeze has gone down, and not even a breath disturbs the pendant star-flag

hanging down

or flaps the lappets of the awning.

the

funnel

The smoke from

shows almost a horizontal and straight

line nearly parallel with the disturbing

steamer.

an hour

It lakes us quite

bank, which

its staff,

we now begin

bank, and

arrive at the upper

end of the

on the

to reach the left

to follow, for Bolobo, our

left

destination, lies

wake of the

is

distant about

nine hours' steaming.

We

two or three villages

at

hill

range, pass

Mompurengi, situated within

cosy folds of wood-covered

hills,

and then we observe

the hills trend further and further eastward, and

come abreast of a low clay bank, with grass above.

The

some portions of

it

river

is

tall

we

dense

bank-full at this season, but

are a clear five feet higher. 2

L 2

Grey

15.

chumbin.

THE CONGO.

616 1883.

May

clay

15.

3iompurengi.

at the water's level,

is

darkening

to blackness as

.

it

upright as a wall to the grassy roots,

rises rpj^^

islets

now

are

place the river

this

for just at

At

broad channels.

in parallel lines to the shore,

divided into five

is

a short distance the

islets

they become indistinct masses, more like curious

trees, so

with which the extreme heat has covered them.

;

than

hills

of the misty

the influence

is

purple

veil

TThen

wearied by the monotonous length of the clay bank,

we

veer towards the tree-covered

isles,

We

afternoon act effectively as a screen.

shadow of the

in the

forest grove,

which in the are steaming

and although

fully

50 feet away, our eyesight can penetrate far into the cool recesses of the

Cottonwood and lesser

its

shade, and

up the

bole of stout

great leafy crown, and through the

but sturdy growth of hardwood, under whose

shade and shelter are the shrubs, climbing Calamus and sprouts of palm.

At

a place on the mainland called

from the

so called

guineensis,

which

we camp.

point,

Two Palm

solitary specimens of the

stand

above

the

Presently two canoes are seen de-

They boldly paddle towards

us a

in

Station that

end of Bolobo

wooded.

of

and give

two of our men have been murdered by a

who

lives close by.

nine o'clock next morning

village

us,

which we are told by the chief of Bolobo

native chief called Gatula,

At

Hyphoene

grassy covered

scending. letter,

Point,

district,

Itimba,

Then

we

are at the lower

which begins with the pretty

situated

on

a

low

hill,

thickly

village after village appears in a nearly

MUBDER OF TWO OF MY MEX.

517

when

the station

continuous line for about an hour,

isss.

May

comes into view on the open higher ground behind the

narrow

belt of tall timber lining the river side.

Were

it

not for the dense population of this district

Boiobo would not be called a happy choice for a

That

station.

no doubt,

a healthy situation, there can be

is

it

we have had abundant

as

But kinder people

salubrity.

have been found, as

it

proof of

its

dwell with might

to

not an easy thing to find

is

Europeans adapted by nature and disposition

for con-

Un-

verting suspicious natives into harmless friends.

fledged Europeans fresh from their homes, brimful of

and

intolerable conceits,

what submits

to their

the best material to the

As

African.

austerity, but will

indififerent to

own

aught

save

else

prejudices, are not as a rule

work with

for the civilisation of

the European

will

not relax his

very readily explode his unspeakable

passions, the aboriginal native does not care to venture into familiar

life

with the

irascible being.

therefore shrouds himself with his

savage hate of what he does not natives

who

like.

sulkiness

and

But there are

are as likely to explode into mischievous

passions as the Europeans

these

own

The native

;

and Gatula was one of

who had a tendency to show what he In this way the way of hurtful outbursts.

blacks

could do in

he showed his to j^ieces

first

attempt by murdering and hacking

two of the garrison of Boiobo.

Imagine a

strip of the left

bank of the

river,

about

twelve miles long, a thin line of large umbrageous trees close to

the water's edge, and a gently sloping back-

16.

Boiobo.

THE CONGO.

518 1883. ilay 16. lioiobo.

rising to about 30 feet above

ground of cleared country

Just about the centre of this strip on

the tallest tree. the open ground

is

the station of Bolobo, consisting of

mud and

a long mat-walled shed, a

mud

walled magazine with

grass

wattle kitchen, a

and about

roofs,

twenty huts arranged in a square on the outside of the

Above and below

inner group of buildings. to the water-side,

it

close

amid banana and palm groves, are Seven of

scattered about fifteen villages.

these,

Itumba,

Mungolo, Biangala, Ururu, Mongo, Manga, Yambula,

and Lingenji, are below the

among which Banunu tribe. which

is

is

Mbanga and

a few villages of the

These form what

is

called

Bolobo,

a rich district, affording excellent fields for

a colony of white agriculturists if

Eight are above,

station.

who

could live here,

they could be supplied with their usual luxuries

of tea and coffee, &c., as well as they could live any-

where

of Bolobo

is

about 10,000, over

The back country

chief.

To

The population of

in the world.

effect

is

whom Ibaka is the senior

also rich

an influence on

garrison of about twenty-five

the river front

this

and populous. population with a

men would by no means

be a difiScult task, provided that the European chosen

over the station was ingenuous and easy in disposition,

and devoted himself

The

to

win the friendship of Ibaka.

chief would not long be considered the senior, unless

he had friends with

formed

whom

a union of interests could be

to defend himself against attack,

the mission entrusted to liim. established

this

station,

and

to

advance

Captain Hanssens,

understood

all

this,

who

and he

TEE STORY OF IBAEA. placed

young Lieutenant Orban

519

But Orban,

in charge.

isss.

May after a

few months of agreeable residence and pleasant

did not like being cooped

imagined himself

ill,

Unwilling

coast.

who was

up

change

for a

relations at Boiobo, at last sighed

in Boiobo all alone

and asked permission

in all other respects a

be

;

he

to visit the

young gentleman

the

to refuse

;

most estimable person

he received leave to depart, and another was substituted

Another was then

self amiable. failed,

and

not the faculty of making him-

who had

in his stead,

was about

it

this

tried,

but

he also

time that the murder at

Boiobo happened.

From my

note-book I quote verbatim the history of

me by Ibaka

Ibaka, as given to

by Sergeant Khamis,

himself,

and translated

from which the causes

his friend,

of the restlessness which distinguished Boiobo above all

may

other districts

"

About

lived

(on

thirty years

ago Ibaka, a powerful

Kutumpuku, on

at riglit

chief,

bauks of the Mikene

the

Among

bank).

known by

those

be divined.

his

the names of

subject

chiefs

were

Manga, Mwekwanga,

They

quarrelled with Ibaka, and

after several little battles,

they discovered that Ibaka

Ururu, and Mongo.

was

too strong for them,

bank

at Boiobo.

which the station villages

when his

named

friendship

mutinous

and

fled to settle

on the

left

Mwekwanga chose the very spot on now stands, the others occupied the

after

was

them

to-day.

re-established

Some time

after,

between Ibaka and

chiefs, Ibaka, still residing at

Kutumpuku,

was himself chased away from the right bank by a

16.

Boiobo.

THE CONGO.

o20 1883.

May

"

16.

Boiobo.

horde of savages from the interior, and he was corn° pelled to seek shelter at Bolobo, between Mwekwanga's '

new

He

and Manga's.

village

place, recognised

by

lived for several years in his

the superior chief, and

all as

undisturbed in his authority.

When

Lingenji being a minor, his

name and

assumed by his principal

slave.

he died, his son

was

authority

This being the custom

of the Wy-yanzi, Lingenji became no more than an

— the

own domestics. The new same whom we know to-day under that

name— had

soon to contend against the jealousies of the

older chiefs

who had

inferior

Ibaka;

chief,

lord of his

often fought his old master

but,

;

being a vigorous and resolute man, he gradually comrecognition

pelled

as

the superior chief

Mwekwanga, however, sullen

his

and obstinate old

of

Bolobo.

right-hand neighbour^ a

fellow,

long defied him, until

the superiority was decided after a series of stubborn contests,

when he was

finally driven

place, to locate himself inland of

away from

his

Manga, on the borders

of a timber belt near that chiefs village.

day Ibaka has been duly acknowledged

Since that

as the principal

in authority.

"

A

few vears

Captain

after this

Hanssens

arrived

affair

at

with Mwekwangra,

Bolobo,

and

having

ascertained from the natives he spoke with that Ibaka

was the

senior chief, he applied to

to build a station,

more

him

for permission

for the sake of provisioning the

steamers than from any merits the locality possessed,

though, as an agricultural and commercial station not to be despised."

it

is

A BELLICOSE 0>ABBISOX. The

Ibaka has thus, by a lucky accident,

fact that

considerably improved his in

lio^ht

which

amongst them

521

his

—has

strength

—

,

this

being the

reocard our settlement

old rivals

aroused and intensified the bate

they always bore him.

Long

Bolobo was so inimical

to white

before

we knew why

men, in various ways

our people were made to understand that they bore a stubborn dislike to them.

beyond a certain

to trespass

whether or

Nor were they allowed

roofing.

markets to buy food.

this antipathy,

Finally, as

their enmity cooled

if

go

to

If through ignorance of

any one strayed beyond the

he was chased, and, sticks.

near the station,

to cut timber for building, fuel for cooking,

grass for

to the

They were not allowed limit

set limits,

caught, severely beaten with

months passed away, the slightly, but its flame

fire

of

was soon

rekindled by Gatula, who, during a drunken

fit,

sus-

pecting that a female slave preferred the society of

one of the Bolobo garrison to his own, and seeing

two of the garrison near to massacre them,

them

my

affair to settle.

me

his village, ordered his people

in his revengeful spleen

hewed

to pieces.

Thus, on

to

and

that

it

found a serious

arrival at Bolobo,

I

The two white men

in cliarge declared

was necessary

Our crews and large

to give the natives a lesson.

reliefs,

which made a

force of

eighty men, were soon thoroughly impregnated with the hostile views of the Bolobo garrison. this lucky arrival of the

the murder of

flotilla to

their comrades.

They took

mean revenge

'

isss.

May

•

.

.

for

They primed the new-

16.

Boiobo.

THE CONGO.

522 1883.

May

16.

Boiobo.

comers with the heat for battle which raered within ° themselves, and the arguments they used to me, when I questioned

them, were, I admit, very powerful.

Ibaka himself came up to see Bula Matari, of he had heard often enough. looking man.

On

Armenian-shaped

The

chief

was not a bad-

head he wore a

his

whom

tall,

brimless,

hat, knit out of hyphcene fibre,

and

^a^^

TYPES OF OUR COLOURED EMPLOYES.

sprinkled

over with

by Hanssens.

gilt

He and

women, frequently

bread, corn,

chickens,

presented

to

him

his vizier, Lugumbila, recited

the details of the tragedy. other

lizards,

Gatula's female slave, like visited the garrison to

and sugar-cane.

acquaintance grew, they stayed too long

sell

Perhaps, as

— at

long that Gatula's suspicions were aroused.

least, so

Gatula

A JEALOUS

523

CHIEF.

one day, inebriated from the quantity and potency •^

of the native beer station,

he had drank, found her at the

where he belaboured her with

brutally,

and then took her

his staff

most

to the superintendent of

demanded that he should buy her

the station, and

off-hand, as he cast her off for her conjugal infidelity.

The European probably did not understand him very well, but his gestures

were too violent

to

be endured,

and he was expelled ignominiously from the grounds of the station.

Three days passed, and on the fourth day

eight of the garrison proceeded to cut timber, four of

them by

G-atula's

than they were

house

and two were no sooner seen

;

A native next day,

killed.

in a tree near the station boundary,

on Sergeant Khamis fight.

to

was heard calling

come out from the

Khamis, nothing

loth,

perched up

walked up

station to

and

about a

hundred yards from the tree and shot the native dead. " Thus Gatula has "

lost

one man," said Lugumbila

and now, Bula Matari, Ibaka requires

to

know what

you intend doing."

Now, the truth is, I am never in a mood for fighting when cold-blooded. The murdered men were buried and out of sight. The inspiration to fury was absent. To Gatula I was a stranger. However much reliance I

might place on the story as related to me,

vague suspicion that laxity of of inexperience,

may have

I

had a

discipline, springing out

caused

this.

Besides, blood-

shedding leaves resentment, feeds rumour, and rumour exaggerates and breeds general distrust.

I

had

still

700 miles of a river alon^^ the banks of which the

isss.

May

16.

Bdobo.

TEE CONGO.

524 1883.

May

16.

Boiobo.

natives were to be converted to peace and confidence ^

.

_

_

in the white

man.

I hope to prosper

If I

began fighting here, how could

my

advent was to be heralded with

if

bloodshed

stories of

At

?

the

same time,

this massacre

of two men, if permitted to go unpunished, might be a preliminary to a I replied, "

more

We

serious calamity.

are strangers

in Ibaka's country.

Ibaka gave us ground, for which he took

Our people were put

I

I

want them.

Those families will ask

show them empty hands.

blood, or

money must pay

me

of these

cannot

I

They had

They were freemen.

do without them. families.

Two

into his hands.

people are not to be found.

much money.

for them.

Shall

Blood must be shed for

for

it.

Gatula must pay or

Ibaka says he has heard of Bula Matari before.

fight.

Ibaka and the other chiefs must advise Gatula which

two suns

I will wait

best.

for the

money.

If

it is

is

not

paid I will go to Gatula's village and bring him out." It

my

was bravely

courage to the

On

the 18th of

Ibaka

held.

£3

said,

— for

but I hoped Ibaka would not put

test.

May a conference of several

first

demanded

The conditions were

and discussed in excellent temper.

related,

custom of the By-yanzi

to

pay or

was

120 brass rods

his fee,

the tribunal of justice.

chiefs

fight.

It

A

was the

rainstorm

broke up the conference at sunset.

On

the

fortified

women

19th I

am

told Gatula

their village with

to Biangala.

and Manga have

palisades,

The conference

and the question was given

and sent

their

sat at ten o'clock,

to Gatula,

Would he pay

BLOOD MONEY. or

Then comes

Gatula replied he would pay.

fio:lit ?

r

•

of Bula Matari

i r i but the chiefs resolved to ^

the amount of compensation

demand

525

;

^

how much he

required, and

Ibaka was commissioned to sound Bula Matari on this important

was well

that he in an

which he did

topic,

fitted

manner showing

in a

for his position of

exceptionally disagreeable

an adviser

and turbulent com-

munity.

The next day

Ibaka that I must receive

I replied to

ray fee from Gatula before speaking,

he had

since

admitted that he would pay, w^hich Ibaka, wondering

whence

I

had obtained

this

law customs, said was quite

The

must be

fee

chester

rifle

twenty

rolls

One

knowledge of By-yanzi

riglit.

goat, five fowls, one

Win-

(belonging to one of the murdered

men\

of

:

camwood powder, one

pot of palm

oil,

and two bunches of bananas.

On

the 21st the legal fee of Bula Matari

The next day

the blood-money for

men's families was fixed by

me

at

was

paid.

the murdered

3000 brass

rods,

value in cash here £50, which, added to costs already paid by Gatula, will

and not

till

amount

to

£83

6s. Sof.,

and then

then will the odium of murder be removed,

and peace and tranquillity restored.

On 58

the 23rd Ibaka brought a tusk of ivory weighing

lbs.,

to give.

as the It

utmost that Gatula would be induced

was instantly

rejected, despite the

most

eloquent appeals on the part of Ibaka, and the loud banter of Gatula and his confederates Manga,

wanga, and Yambula.

Mwek-

isss. ^^^^^ 19.

Boiobo.

THE CONGO.

526 1883.

May

Mv

Boiobo.

position

"^

23.

figlit

however was extremely "^

^

and conquer was easy enough, and

To

difficult.

to

wreck the

murderer's fortunes was possible, but war, whether followed

by victory

Even

sides.

or defeat, leaves

victory

stings to both

its

would be only a temporary and

small advantage, since

it

would quadruple the

culties of settling up-river, to

which purpose we were

on our way when halted by these

dismal

Rumour would magnify

until

shortly appear that I

its

terrors

it

is

also

for strength,

it

tidings.

it

would

was the aggressor, and Gatula

was the wronged victim of our

And

diffi-

misused

certain that, possessing

a

strength.

reputation

would be hinted about that

I enter-

tained sinister designs against the whole country.

On

the other hand,

the danger

was imminent of

causing the natives to suppose that the lives of our people were held but cheaply by

me

if I

accepted less

than the price usually given for shedding blood.

This

DANGERS OF BEGINNING WAS. miglit inspire

them

to try again, perhaps next time to

murder a European or two. to stand out to the

527

My

pohcy was therefore

utmost verge of war, and maintain

an ostentatious readiness

to fight

and exact summary

vengeance immediately on the rupture of negotiations or confessed failure to pay, until they would

—

to avoid

the necessity of pushing the affair to the extreme of

bloody arbitration

—make

two or three

more,

offers

then accept the ransom, and seal a true and effective peace,

taking

the

opportunity

to

them

admonish

carefully in the future.

On £42

the 24th the fine 4.S.,

was

paid,

and the acceptance of

salvoes of musketry,

by the return

it

and amounted

to

was announced by

which was immediately followed

women,

of the

by land and water

to

the

and

effects

of the

guilty

children,

villages

confederates.

Ibaka's

comments on the case were summed up

in his

pithy declaration that " Gatula has received such a fright,

and has

lost so

much money,

that he will never

man again. No, indeed, of his women than go through

be induced to murder any

he would rather

lose ten

this scene again."

Lugumbila, the vizier of Boiobo, expressed his belief that I

would have been

had appeared amongst them cowries, instead of the

and white

flannels of

still

more

successful if I

in a dress covered with

common tweed and grey which

my

clothes

serge

consisted, as

By-yanzi people did not respect a chief who bore not on his person the garb of sovereignty.

isss.

Boiobo.

nC^R MBRARY THE CONGO.

528

Ma^^24 Boiobo.

^^^

^^^^ ^^

^^^^^

^^y ^^^ passed

of the chiefs of Bolobo, ,

who

territOFy to the Association.

in a

grand assembly

confirmed the cession of

The men gathered about

NATIVE METHOD OF HOLDISG A GUN. (^From a sketch by Mr, Glave.)

gave

me

a better insiglit into the dangers I was pro-

voking with an apparently reckless reader

whom

know whether

I have taken into

the recklessness

END OF VOL. LOSPOX

:

my

was

spirit,

but the

confidence will

real or assumed.

I.

PRINTED BT WILLIAil CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET ASD CHARING CROSS.