Congo Foundings Stanley Part Ii

  • Uploaded by: Victor Rosez
  • 0
  • 0
  • January 2021
  • PDF

This document was uploaded by user and they confirmed that they have the permission to share it. If you are author or own the copyright of this book, please report to us by using this DMCA report form. Report DMCA


Overview

Download & View Congo Foundings Stanley Part Ii as PDF for free.

More details

  • Words: 145,317
  • Pages: 544
Loading documents preview...
V f^ A

y^ y M- Stan LEY

nu^j^cc
H. M. (l-',m,i

a

STANLEY.

rliidij
Wn, UroHVcnor

street,

London, W.)

THE CONGO AND THE

FOUNDING OF

ITS

FREE STATE

A STORY OF

WORK AND EXPLORATION

BY

HENRY

M.

STANLEY

WITH OVER ONE HUNDUED FULL-PAGE AND SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS, TWO LARGE MAPS, AND SEVERAL SMALLER ONES

IN

TWO VOLUMES Vol.

II.

NEW YORK HARPER

&

BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE

1885

Copyright, 1885, by

Harper

All rig/Ua ruerved.

&

Brothers.





CONTENTS. (Vol

II.)

CHAPTEE XXVI. TO Bolobo trade

—Wealth

THE BLACK RIVER.

of the chiefs

—Manguru

PAGE

the Rothschild of

Bolobo— Scenery

of the Upper Congo Ennui on the voyage Comparison with travelling on other great rivers Unvarying food We lose our way " Ho, Wy-yanzi, tribesmen of Luko" lela A poor reception An improvised market— Tricked by the natives Buying a crocodile— Cordial reception at Usindi Irebu the home of the champion traders— Maugombo the chief Excellent knowledge of trade The war in Irebu— I am asked to negotiate for peace Cause of the war Difference between Stanley and Bula Matari Medicine to make wealth grow Cooking the big pot Troublesome exploration -A threatening dance " The river is free, but touch not the land " The Batuki A new station founded !



— —

























1

CHAPTER XXVII. FROM THE BLACK RIVER TO STANLEY POOL AND BACK TO EQUATOR STATION.

An

— Chili pej^per and tears— Success of a —Sounds of war—Peace-making—Burying the war — The Lukanga river—Mantumba Lake— The Watwa dwarfs —Rescue of a shipwrecked crew — The Abbe Guyot — The

embarrassing farewell

hypocritical stratagem

and his prey — Leopoldville flourishing— Troubles at Bwabwa Njali's— A homicidal officer— Lieutenant Janssen and the Troubles at Abbe Guyot drowned — Troubles at Kimpoko Bolobo— The station burnt— We are fired upon War A Krupp Peace restored gun sent for Weak effects of musketry Displaying the power of the Krupp Settling the indemnity "I and my people will depart from Bolobo for ever "—The river of Bunga — Lukolela— A magnificent forest — The superstition of lion













!

luka

— Excellent

achieved

condition

of

Equator

Station

— My

ideal Sii

——A CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

XXVIII.

TO THE ARUWIJII OR BIYERKE.



PAGE



The Lulungu river Bolombo Equipping for a long voyage Bangala the terrible Stirring memories Boleko the chief "Stop, thief!" Mata Bwyki A modern Hercules "Is this Tandelay ? " Uncomfortable moments The appeal of Yumbila " Bula Matari and Mata Bwyki are one to-day " Luxuriant

















!

tropical scenes

—Deserted

districts

women — The



— Immense forest wealth —Unsheltered in a storni

- Nganza— Old Eubunga — I.anga-Langa

currency changing

of former population

— Bumba

a sign

— The —Itim-

and the chief Myombi with a tiger's skin— Yambinga

dreaded Ibauza— A trick biri river- Yalulima armourers the look-out— The

—Kdobo— Oyster-shells

—Hostile natives —War canoes on

Aruwimi— Mokulu— An

effective

salutation— 75

"Bravo, Yumbila!"

CHAPTER XXIX. UP THE BIYERRE. Yumbila returns with an interesting story— Slave kidnappers, probably from the Soudan— Skilful workmanship Umaneh and Yakui Conical huts The course of the river Metropolitan Yambinnba A sham famine— The rapids Supposed identity of the Biyerre and Welle Reasons for this opinion—-Arabs in the 119 neighbourhood Again on the Congo

— —













CHAPTER XXX. TO Predatory

Bahunga— An odd means

Enormous Arabs

STANLEY

flotilla

— " Cruel

of canoes

man

for

FALLS.

defence— Deserted villages ahead Ravages by the



— Danger

has done his worst

"—Remains

of burnt



villages— A shocking discovery We overtake the Arab slavetraders Meditations on retribution —Extent of territory ravaged





by the Arabs— Their miserable captives A harrowing scene Captives all women and children their number The cause of the trade— Yangambi The Cliofu river The Wcnya fishermen Cunning policy of the Arabs— Stanley Falls— Description of the cataracts— The district tribes Their mode of fishing— dangerous ferry Drum signals An industrious people- The



;









fish

of the

Binnie

is

— —

waters- Palavers— Onr

appointed chief and

left in

station founded— charge— Homeward bound 134

farthest

—— CONTENTS.

V

CHAPTER XXXI. DOWN THE CONGO TO STANLEY

POOL. PAGE

Going with the stream— The Arabs send their confidential men with us— NavigabiUty of the Liimami and Lubilash Wreck of the ii'oya?— Beaching and repairing the wreck— Cold winds on the Iboko in confusion Impudent thieving A prisoner — river " Fast bind, fast find " A horrified father Refusal of a ransom Cordiality at Ukumira Mata Bwyki in a passion More











prisoners

— Restitution









of our stolen

property

— Freeing



the

prisoners— A horrible massacre Young Glave of Yorkshire Bolobo station again burnt— News from the missionaries Again Troublesome news from Vivi 168 at Leopold ville





CHAPTER XXXII. RETDRN TO VIVL Starting of our

words

caravan— A promising farewell— Ngalyema's

—Encouraging

the natives as

we

resolutions of the officers

pass — Nselo ferry





— Quarrel

last

— Hospitality

of

between Ngombi

Peace-making Forms of our treaties with native chiefs— List of districts and their chiefs The cut-throat Lutete is changed for the better— An extending and dangerous crevasse Lava at Kalulu Falls " Whence has it come ? " Manyanga " higgledy-piggledy " Hospitality at the mission-house of Mr.

and Mbimbi







:



— Luima

and Mrs. Ingham— A pretty station valleys Climate and health— Congo la Unhappy reflections upon its neglect



CHAPTER

and Lunionzo

Lemba— View

of Vivi

189

XXXIII.

TO OSTEND. Climate and conduct

Removal

—Vivi

in

confusion— A cure

for

sham

illness

— Description of the changes at Vivi probable work — I embark on the Kinsemho —

of the station

General Gordon's Loan<j;o— Sette

Camma— Coast

trade— Gaboon Gulf— Fernando a great "oil"

Po-The Cameroons— Duke Town— Exploring river

—Native chiefs buying iron houses — Bonny—Lagos— Quetta

—Sierra Leone— My arrival in London —Report to H.M. the King 220

of the Belgians

CHAPTER XXXIV. EUROPEANS

IN

AFRICA.

European opinion of African life—Repelled by the absence of comforts " Amour propre " and " susceptibilities "—Few heroes of labour —Extravagant hopes—" Bah 1 did not come for work'' Types



!



— A CONTENTS.

vi



PAGB



and prosperous stations Malingering Unintel" Nothing like whisky !" ligent workers "Sojering" happier theme— The earnest workers of the Expedition—New aspirants— Young officers in search of adventures— A sad accident—Our physician— A plucky Scot— The way to gain a good of neglected







reputation

238

CHAPTER XXXV. CLIMATE

— PAET

I.

—A youth's welcome to the and and fever — Intemperance — Careless-

Value of reliable knowledge its results

— Wet

ness in Europe stations

tropics,

flannels

—Inquiry

on the Congo

— The

into the causes of sickness at the cases of

some of our invalids



—The

best positions to build upon Captain Burton's advice, " Beef and beer " European opinion of Africa compared to African





Banza Manteka a missionary station Dangers of low-lying localities A fatal " pare " " Observe the native custom Sickness not all due to miasma Number of deaths in our Expedition Instances of how the deaths occurred Urgent advice to- those who wish to thrive in the tropics 280 opinion of Europe '"



:











. .

CHAPTEE XXXVI. CLIMATE. Dr.

—PART

II.





Definition of heat Cold von Danckelman's obsei'vations Ex]iosure Advantage of awnings Equable temperature of the body Temperature in Soutli America Inequality of the Congo climate Long marches and gulps of cold water A cool place "He is only joking" " Tlie White Man's Grave" Advice Food and drink Daily life Medicine Diseases to doctors













— — —









312

Meteorological Tables

CHAPTER XXXVII. THE KERNEL OF THE ARGUMENT.





The maritime Navigable stretches mountain region Elevations, vegetation, and productions—Population Interior basin of the Upper Congo; its extent and altitudes Navagability of the tributaries Tal)les of mileage of navigable waters Area drained by the rivers Tables of population of Upper Congo section— Opinions of Dr. Pogge and Lieut. Weissman, Tipj)U Tib, and Dr. Scliwcinfurth— The products of the land— Vegetable and animal richness Minerals Navagability of the E.xtent of the Webb-Lualaba section

Extent of the Congo River region



—The

— —













— CONTENTS.

— Characteristics of the Lualaba country— Livingstone's descriptions — The Tanganika territory — markets Table of the actual knowledge of the Congo basin area and population— Possibilities of trade — Table of the value of African produce in Liverpool —Prospects of factories— Advantages of a Equatorial Africa — Comparison with railway— Efforts to future development and greatness other countries—

PACE

Webb-Lualaba

Ujiji :

its

civilise

Its

..

..

339

CHAPTER XXXVIII. THE BKRLIN CONFERENCE.

—Precedents—Treaties with chiefs their —The Anglo Portuguese Treaty—United States action Prince Bismarck's views —Position of Great Britain— German and French interests—Freedom of commerce —Berlin Conference —List of Plenipotentiaries—Deliberations and decisions at the Conference —Acquisitions of France and Portugal — Free Trade —A safe jurisdiction—The Royal Founder

Strengthening the fabric

:

validity

378

APPENDIX. PiGE

The Commercial Basin

of the Congo, as described by the

Author 409

before the Berlin Conference

415

Protocol, No. 9

Declarations exchanged between the United States of America and the International Association of the Congo

419

Convention between the Empire of Germany and the International Association of the Congo

421

Declarations exchanged between the Government of Her Britannic

Majesty and the International Association of the Congo

.

.

. .

422

Convention between the Government of Her Britannic Majesty and the International Association of the Congo

423

Convention between the Netherlands and the International Association of the

Congo

426

Convention between the Government of the French Republic and the International Association of the

Congo

429

Convention between Portugal and the International Association of the Congo

431

Declarations exi^hauged between the Belgian Government and the International Association of the Protocol,

-No.

Congo

434

10

The General Act

433

of the Berlin Conference

410

..

.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. (

Vol IJ.)

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. KO. 1.

H.M.Stanley.

2.

Au

3.

A

4.

Equator Station

{From a photograph)

Frontispiece.

Interview before the Chief's House at

Terrible Disaster

Wangata

..

5.

The Banks

6

"Finally the 'Ibanza' emerged into view"

7.

Vifew of

8.

Scene from the Covelet near our Station at Stanley Falls.

of the

Upper Congo

Bondeh

12.

Seventh Cataract in the distance Haven, Stanley Falls A Street Scene in Iboko Execution of Slaves by the Bakuti near Equator Station Kinshassa Station (Stanley Pool) ..

13.

View

9.

10. 11.

Still

of Le'opoldville

The

Station and Port, 1884.

Baptist

Mission on the summit of Leopold Hill. {From a photograph) 14.

View down the Congo, a few miles above the confluence of the Lubamba with the Congo View down the river from nearly opposite Isangila .. .. A few of the Women and Children of our Coloured Employe's Sanatorium at Bonny .. .. .. .. . .

15.

16. 17.

18.

. .

.

.

. .

.

.

....

Mr. A. B. Swinburne, Chief of Kinshassa Station Steamer Le Stanley leaving Vivi Beach

19. Tiie Sectional

20.

To face

.



186



192



215

„ ,,

222 234

..

..

,,

257

..

..

,,

264



362

Plan of Profile of the Country between the Sea and Ruanda across the Congo Basin .. .. .. .. .. ..

..

.

.

.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE

so.

81

27.

Plan of the Bangala Settlements One of the Bungala ..

28.

Native of Langa-Langa

101

29

108 123 218

32.

Old Chief in native-made Hat A Type of the Basoko View of Mpozo Station and Kiver from \ Mons. del Commune

33.

ia

226

34.

Captain Haiissens

26.

30.

31.

r//Ze rfM/irers

steamer

83

225

..

228

Landana 36. From Ambriz to the Cameroons 37. Old Calahar Factories, near Duke Town 38 From tlie Niger to Ostend

229

35.

230

.

39.

Lieutenant Valcke

10. Lieutenant

Vangele

232 235

.

263

..

265

41. Lieutenant Coqiiilhat 42.

Lieutenant Jaussen

.

43.

Lieutenant Pai foury

.

44.

Lieutenant Grang

45. Dr.

Aliard

267 268

269 270 271

.

46.

Lieutenant Liebrechts

47.

The funnel-shaped Gorge of the Lower Congo Plan to illustrate how the Gorge discharges its winds

48.

49. Political Divisions of the

Congo Basin

278 292 at Le'opoldville

.

MAP.

A Map of the

Congo Basin (second

half)

In Pochet

293 365



1

—A

THE CONGO, THE FOUNDING OF

ITS

FREE STATE.

CHAPTER XXVI. TO THE BLACK RIVER.

—Manguru the Rothschild of Bolobo —Scenery of the Upper Congo Ennui on the voyage— Comparison with travelling on other great rivers —Unvarying food —We lose our way — " Ho, Wy-yanzi, tribesmen of Lukolela " — A poor reception— An improvised market— Tricked by the natives — Buying a crocodile —Cordial reception at Usindi — Irabu the home of the champion

Bolobo trade— Wetalth of the chiefs

!





traders— Mangombo tlie chief Excellent knowledge of trade Tl'e war in Irebu —I am asked to negotiate for peace Cause of the war Difference between Stanley and Bula Matari Medicine to make





wealth

grow— Cooking

threatening dance

The Batuki

— " The

—A new

The By-yanzi

— — Troublesome

exploration

a tradition according to Ibaka

originally from

Ubangi, a

district

situate south of and near the equator on the

From

bank.

the



river is free, but touch not the land "

station founded.

liave

tbey came

that

the big pot

number of canoes

tliat

right

I liave

met

hailing from Ubangi, this must be a populous district. Ibaka,

who was

believes

one side

it

to be

is all

black;" or

it

YOL. II.—

once

an

tliere

on a trade expedition,

island, as, according to hira, "

white water, on the other side

may mean

that

Ubangi

is

more

on

it is all

likely to

issa.

Bolobo.'

THE CONGO.

2 18S3.

May

be situated in a fork at a confluence of two rivers

—the

24.

Boiobo.

Congo and a white water he

fused,

by the quantity of water and

said,

there — " there was no end

Two

however, that

more refined Boiobo

powder

is

is

snails,

a

dogs, croco-

quantities.

Little,

of utility to Europeans and people of is

sold at this particular place.

a great centre for the ivory and

trade, principally because

The native

traders

whom

its

camwood

j^eople

are

so

have agents residing

the ivory collected here

is

and the merchandise from the coast lying

in

at Stanley Pool, to

delivered,

is

iguanas, fish and red-

great

in

sold

are

tastes

enterprising.

is

islands

to the water."

Mpumbu, where

hippopotamus meat,

wood pow^der

store

con-

hours' journey inland from Boiobo there

large market-place called diles,

He was much

aflSuent.

consigned to the wealthy traders at Boiobo,

One must not be hasty

in

judging from the poverty

of their garb that the chiefs of this trading district are

They

poor.

are frugally inclined, having

of wealth

standard

a certain

which they must endeavour

to

achieve before they bear on their persons in every day life

the habit

Thus of

Maiigi, residing at

Itimba,

[vintamo,

He

Boiobo.

station

their

befitting"-

visits

is

and prosperity. the junior chief

LeojDoldville

daily,

dressed in a cotton robe of dark blue baft, but he lord

of

three villages,

and may probably be worth

£3000. Lugumbila, vizier is

to

Ibaka and his oldest slave,

probably worth an equal amount.

Boiobo,

is

a nabob

;

is

if his

sold at auction in Boiobo,

But Manguru, of

worldly belongings were

it is

very possible his

effects

TEE ROTHSCHILD OF BOLOBO. would

His canoes and slaves

double this sum.

realise

3 isss.

May

mr

exploit every creek and affluent as

Ubangi Pool,

at

;

and

ful factor

at ;

Malima, on the north bank, he has a

faith-

while at Boiobo he keeps a hundred armed

paddles his district,

and

Kimbangu, on the south bank of Stanley

Yet Manguru, now well advajiced

slaves.

is

as Irebu

own canoe along

the

in years,

river front of the

trading from one place to another daily.

this Rothschild of

Boiobo

who

It

induced Gratula to

A SPECIMEN OF THE BY-YANZI Mr. Glave.)

{Bij

choose hetvv^eon two evils

by

or forfeit of

arguments convinced him that

his

was

—war,

a less evil than the loss of his

On

the 28th of

May

the

for the establishment of

Congo. guides

life

flotilla set

two

money, and

to lose

and property. out from Boiobo

stations on

the

The expedition was accompanied by

— Msenne, from Mswata, and

ing to Ibaka,

and Ubangi.

who knew

money

Upper three

two slaves belong-

well the countries of Uyanzi

24.

Boiobo.

THE CONGO.

4

The upper

1883.

May

28.

Bolobo.

.

j^ortion of

.

^^^^^ ^^^ stations,

.

.

commanding

with

many excellent

Bolobo presents

.

views, but unfortu-

To be

nately they are at present beyond our means. able to build healthy

dwelHng houses on

must be well assured that the natives markets to

men

stationed at Bolobo, then the place would

emporium of

trade.

Uritil that time,

open their

will

of 100

If a garrison

us.

these sites one

could be

become an

however, we are

forced to seek some village or villages, with the chiefs

of which

we can

live in

mutual dependence.

Beyond Bolobo we have a tending for about

five miles in a north-easterly direc-

In a cove at

tion.

highland ex-

bluff-faced

its

upper extremity, where

the river, there lives a tribe of

it

leaves

Wa-nunu, who immedi-

ately on seeing the flotilla advancing, disported them-

selves along their

by

sandy shore most ferociously, judging

their manoeuvres.

till

mucli

we

!

Such love

unfriendliness for them. for

how

Even had they kept up the fierce doomsday we would not have had aught of

were misjudged play

But, poor souls,

we

as

jjossessed

them was simply immeasureable.

The passed

flotilla

sheered off a

on with

silent

little

into deeper water,

and unoffending

crews

and and

passengers.

Beyond either

came

the village

was low

land,

forested

which

in dense black towering masses of impene-

trable vegetation to the waterside, or else ran in great

semicircles half enclosing

grassy

flats,

whereon the

hippopotami fed at night time.

The Congo was now enormously wide

;

from

five to

;

UPPER CONGO SCENERY.

5

many

eight channels separated one from another by as lines of islets

(some of which were miles in length), on

which the Landoljia florida, or rubber plant, of the value of which the natives as yet

flourished,

know

nothing.

Tamarinds, baobab, bombax, redwood, Elais guinecnsis,

Calamus

palm-tree, wild date-palm,

indicus,

hardy stink-wood, made np a dense mass of

with the trees

and

creepers of such formidable thickness that no one was

even inspired to examine what treasures of plants

might be revealed by a table

closer investigation of the vege-

thriving on these

life

humps

of dark alluvium

Mid-Congo.

in

Few

could imagine that a slow ascent up the Congo

in steamers going only

two and a half knots against the

current of the great river could be otherwise than mo-

Taken

notonous.

Congo

uninteresting

is

Upper

as a whole, the scenery of the ;

perhaps the very slow rate of

ascent has left that impression.

But we were

of the highland scenery in the

Lower Congo.

also tired

We

clared ourselves tired of looking at naked rock

and rufous ragged slopes 600

feet in height.

de-

cliffs,

Before

we were through

the circular enlargement of the Congo

at Stanley Pool

we

also confessed ourselves wearied

the base of the massive

when we voyaged up along mountain

lines

above

it

to

;

by

low shores, of grassy

vegetation and forest, ennui. arises

for

and now, when we have a month's journey

a change islets,

Chumbiri we sighed

But

let

from the

and banks of thick we are menaced with the same

us be just.

levels,

Our

fact that our

feeling of weariness

accommodations are so

isss.

uoioio.

THE CONGO.

B 1883. Jlay 28.

Boiobo.

limited that all

we

are oblifred to ^

The

the long way.

upon petty



i

eyes, the only organs exercised,

The

are feasting con-

we

nature of which

details, of the

are scarcely conscious.

only created by

is

Our eyes

our compulsory inactivity. tinually

np

or stand

^

The weariness

are easily sated.

down

sit

^

flitting of

a tiny sun-bird,

the chirping weavers at their nests; the despondent

droop of a long calamus whicli cannot find support,

and

wliich, like

has a

tall

the woodbine, flourishes best

stem to cling to

;

when

the bamboo-like reeds

swaying- tufted head of an overgrown papyrus floating

by of a Pistia

stratiotes-,

ing parrots hurrying by overhead

hippopotamus

lazily

;

;

;

it

the the

a flock of screechthat great

yawning

preparing for a plunge into his

watery bed; that log-like form of the crocodile, roused

from

his meditations, loth to go, but

compelled by the

whirr of paddle-wheels to submerge himself; springing monkeys, skurrying in their

away from the increasing

noise

;

little

our approach

;

that darting

;

kingfisher hurrying ahead, heralding

yonder flock of black

screaming their harsh

cries

;

that

alarmingly

ibis

little

blue-throated

which has just hopped away from the yellow-

fantail

blossomed acacia bush

;

those

little

industrious wagtails

pecking away so briskly on the sandy of the forest

woods

homes

that white-collared fish

eagle out-spreading his wings for flight

diver and

leafy

those

;

look

spit of land

;

;

there

is

a jay

by the edge

strip

which has just

fled into the

at those long-legged flamingoes at that

and

—but the

minute of time has

its

details are endless, for

incident.

As

for

every

your own

;

THE MISSISSIPPI AND THE CONGO. fancies,

7

during this day trance, created mainly by what

you see

as

the

banks ghde steadily

dare to fathom them sion on the

They come

?

wlio

past,

in rapid

will

succes-

mind, in various shapes, rank after rank.

Unsteadfast

as

the grey

clouds which

the westward, they pile into

you

see

to

and towns, and

cities,

mountains, growing ever larger, more intense, but still

ever wavering and undergoing quick transitions

The flowing

of form.

on

aspiring clouds

the

blue, as well as the

foliage;

those

the horizon

dark spectral

the sepulchral gloom

the forest

of the stream

;

that expanse of sere-

that grey clay bank, speckled

with the red roots of some shrub

way through

isles

purpling

the

;

beneath the impervious forest

swaying reeds;

coloured grassy plain

dome of sky

the vast

river,



that

;

suggest some

all

narrow path-

new

thought,

some fancy which cannot be long pursued, is

constantly

supplanted

by other

by something new, which

ideas

since

it

suggested

but a momentary

itself is

flash.

But supposing that a steamer

similar

to

those

we

have on the Mississippi bore you up the Congo, rushing

up stream

at the rate of twelve knots

an hour against

the current, while you could travel up and down a long,

broad deck

protected

by a sun-proof awning, with

luxurious board and lodging at your command, your

view of the Congo would be very believe river

different.

you would express a preference

known

comparisons.

to you.

You would

The Rhine

?

Why

for

it

1

to

do

any

naturally think of

the

Rhine, even

i883.

Boiobo.

TEE CONGO.

8 1883.

May

including

most picturesque

its

parts,

only a micro-

is

28,

Boiobo.

Lower Congo

scopic miniature of the

have the Rhine steamer, and accommodations Mississippi

to be

its

wine and food and

able to see

half times larger

than the Mississippi, and certainly from

You may

times broader.

The

properly.

it

The Congo is one and a

?

we must

but

;

to ten

eiglit

take your choice of nearly

a dozen channels, and you will see more beautiful vegetation

on the Congo than on the American

latter lacks tbe

river.

palm and the calamus, while the former

has a dozen varieties of the palm.

Besides,

it

herds of hippopotami, crocodiles innumerable are

gleefully

The

romping on the

;

possesses

monkeys

and the main;

islands

elephants are standing sentry-like in the twilight of the

dark forests by the river side; buffaloes red and black are grazing on the lich grass plains of

ibis,

black and white parrots, parroquets, and guinea-

The

fowl.

there are flocks

;

Mississippi

is

decent greyish-coloured

a

stream, confined between two low banks, with here and there a

town of frame houses and

of a tea-colour on is

nearly chalky white.

milk, red or I

its left half,

Rhine wine.

and on

its

room enough, and

comfortably on

its

And

way among

is

right half

it

as for the towns,

come by-and-by

will

bless

why, our

meantime there

;

to spare, to stow the half of Europe

spacious borders.

any of those gallant English their

The Congo

take your choice, tea or

hope the all-gracious Providence

labour, and they will is

You

brick.

soldiers

the Nile cataracts,

The Nile

?

Ask

who have tugged what they think

of the Nile to spend a holiday upon.

The Danube

?

WOOD-CUTTING. All,

not to be mentioned with the

is

it

9 Conj^o for

i883.

May

scenery

The Volga ?

!

You

no means.

Amazon Congo

before

The Amazon

worse.

Still

By

?

will

have to ascend very far up the

you

will

anything approaching

see

scenery.

Well, you must admit then that

if

Congo could

the

be seen from the deck of a commodious steamer, feeling of weariness

now

which we have

while ascending at this

current, because

contend against

to

snail's

we have no room

this

pace against the

move

to

about,

would be replaced by a more grateful and a cheerier mood.

At

we

P.M.

5

generally

camp

from twenty to thirty miles up

after

an advance of

river.

Thirty miles

would be unusually good progress, because there and saws, and

to be cut with axes

it

will take

fuel

is

till

nine

o'clock at night to cut sufficient for next day's steam-

From

ing.

5 to

6.30 p.m.

all

hands excepting the

cooks are engaged in gathering wood, half-dead logs,

which have

or dead trees, for

sizes falls

transport

a great

wood-choppers for

the

fall

boilers.

to

the

to

fire is lit,

When

darkness

and cut the logs into

foot lengths

The sound of smiting axes rings be re-echoed by the op])osite

and borne along the

face of the river to a great

It

is

is

varied

by the woodman's chant

struck up, and under

new impetus rapid.

camp.

to

distance.

chorus

be cut into portable

under the light of which the

through the dark grove, forest,

to

is

What

its

;

a

stirring vocal notes a

given, and the axes are struck stirringly a moral lesson for vapid- minded white

28.

boiobo.

THE CONGO.

10 1883.

May

men

mio-ht be

drawn from

these efforts of untutored

28.

Boiobo.

blacks to get through their tasks

!

Meantime, at dusk, each steamer's crew of white officers

and passengers

dinner-tables on

has

permitted

w'ith a rosier

will

be fouixl around their

deck or on the bank,

it

the

;

the

if

camp

lamplight tinging their faces

hue than the sallow comjolexion which

the sun has bestowed on them.

Of It

food there

may

is

abundance, but not

much

variety.

comprise soup of beans or vegetables, followed

by toasted chikwanga (cassava-bread), fried or stewed fowl, a roast fowl, or a roast leg of goat meat, a dish

of desiccated potatoes, and, if

some sweet

in our purchases,

we have been

fortunate

potatoes, or yams, roast

bananas, boiled beans, rice and curry, or rices with

honey, or rice and milk, finishing with tea or

coffee, or

palm-wine. It is

insipid food for breakfast

A

out a term of three years.

makes the European sigh caviar,

mit compote und salat. live

take

For

if

How

when

fruit,

exhilarated

I think, indeed^ that

our youDg

cheese,

ofTicers

sauce HoUandaise

?

Then,

how

nice,

and dessert be on the

glorious a view of

and the unvarying

Astrachan

a German, however can

without his dear compote

he thinks, would

Congo.

— with

this diet

perhaps a pastete and poularde

—filet de bo?uf, with

he

few months of

for his petit verre,

salmon

mock-turtle,

and dinner through-

Congo

life

one could

by half a pint of champagne. the eternal " fowl " of the Congo,

slices

of chikwanga, with which

are fed, deserves three-fourths of



!

;

NATIVE SURPHISE AT THE STEAMERS.

now

the blame

lavished on " murderous Africa."

only a grand moral

IS

11

manhood

It

Livmgstone's

like

that rises above these petty vanities of a continental

Think of

stomach.

his thirty-two years' life in Africa,

and of the unsophisticated mannikins who to-day are digging their eyes out with weeping at the memories a European

of

is

much

not

to converse about

after our stomachs are full of the

and

we

as

all

know

To spend

that

be better

Ungende was our

life is

fears

quieted

it

well in sleeping, that

all

we

next day's weary voyaging

river,

night's

first

made them

until

heavy chikwanga,

short

camp above Boiobo.

Bj^-yanzi were very friendly at

their

on the Congo

basely were too long."

fitted for the

up the great African

The

little

spend

retire early to

may

been

that

" The time of

We

they have

before

months out

scarcely three

There

restaurant

hostile,

first,

but at sunset

and they were not

our people were ordered

to

make

their reedy couches near the steamers.

The next day we

We

travelled

up by very pleasant

passed villages, banana-groves, palmy groups, and

deep green forest in agreeable alternations. the

liills.

Levy

bluffs of

stupid

Hills,

and end

lyumbi.

at the magnificent

These are

and airy red

The people looked out upon us

wonder from under the shade of

seemingly saying, "

What

in

their bananas,

curious phase of existence

have we entered upon now

?

Verily, an epoch has

i883.

Boiobo.

THE CONGO.

12 1883.

May

dawned upon our

29.

Ungende.

auswer wlio cau

And

;

but what

those

let

it sisrnifies

°

!

we, looking out from under our awnings, apsay, "

pear to these

lives ^^ "

three

Ay, gaze, oh men and women, upon

symbols of

Ye

civilisation.

things

see

to-day which the oldest and wisest inhabitant of your

land never heard or dreamed

of,

and yet

but

the}^ are

tiny types of self-moving leviathans that plough the

raging sea by night as well as by day

Two

hours above lyumbi we

above lyumbi,

ran

in,

;

and coming

expecting, although

too easterly, that perhaps

Congo.

we

its

Tlie

had appeared lose

narrow creek

to a

direction

was a

little

should emerge on the

There was a sluggish current in

kept on, but after seventeen miles reeds

our way.

which we clung in order not to

to

sight of the mainland

we

lost

A reedy flat

were numerous.

chaTinels

" !

and we

narrowed, and

it

finally stopped further passage,

it,

and we had

to

return, opposite the village of Ikulu.

We

had not perceived

steamed along

;

many

villages as

but in coming back

we

we had

sighted about

twenty canoes in the creek advancing towards

They had appeared from some reeds.

us.

direction through the

These, on seeing us, hastily turned back, but

wishing to know from them which route to take, the

En

Avant cast

off

the whale-boat which she had been

towing, and steamed after them at

Not

until

we had run

full speed.

five miles could

we

overtake

flotilla,

and then we found that their crews

were women, who

to escape us, dashed into the reeds,

the flying

LUEOLELA.

13

and splashed clumsily with water up

to their

'^

Not a word would they answer

reach the shore. stood,

necks to

but

;

on reaching the shore, sulkily regarding

As we steamed

six

knots an hour, an idea

us.

may

be

gained of the speed which the natives when pressed in their

These

canoes attain.

pirogues.

Had

also

were mere

they been war canoes

it

is

fishino*

likely our

steamer would have been beaten in the race.

On

the 31st of

May we had

but the wind blew

down

a tolerably fair journey,

river,

and impeded

ns.

Two

trading canoes with twenty paddlers in each were overtaken, which kept pace with us the rest of the day,

and camped sociably with us on a park-like

which showed

soft

young

grass, while the forest ran

deep black semicircle behind

in a

canoe-men were bound

Oq

for

us.

The By-yanzi

Ubangi.

the 1st of June, after following a dense forest

we drew near

another settlement.

for

nine hours,

Our

provisions were running exceedingly low.

men and

coloured

250

terrace,

lbs.

Eighty

seven Europeans consume at least

weight of food daily.

Since leaving Bolobo,

nearly half a ton weight of provisions had been eaten. It

behoved us then

to

prepare ourselves for barter

with the community in view, which our guides called Lukolela.

The settlement ran along a crescented bend of river,

above a steep clay bank ranging from 5

the

feet to

25 feet above the water, in a clearing cut out of the finest forest I

much

had yet seen.

thiimed, so

that

The

trees

had not been

from a distance, but for the

i^^s,

May

30.

ikuiu.

TSE CONGO.

r4 1883 Lukoieia.

grey gleam of huts and the green sheen of bananas, it

would have been

difficult to

that a settlement

tell

so large as Lukoieia existed here.

The

showed glorious growths of timber.

We

ing slowly the while to

islands also

began steam-

acquaintance at the

initiate

There was no answer rendered,

very lowest village.

but the groups of bronze-bodied people grew larger

We

and more numerous. bright red

unrolled crimson savelist,

handkerchiefs,

royal

lengths of blue baft, held out

and suspended

long

striped

of brass rods,

fistfuls

necklaces

florentines,

brightest

of

beads.

Msenne of Mswata stood up on the cabin-deck of

the

En

for

Avanf, the observed of

his pose

and

his action,

all

observers, admired

and delivered

with

his oration

a voice which might be envied by an auctioneer. *'

Ho, Wy-yanzi, ti'ibesmen of Lukoieia, sons of luka

my

lord

Know you

not

and Mungawa, whose names are beloved by and chief Gobila Gobila

— Gobila

Gobila

said

Ho, you men

!

!

to

me.

" Here, take

Hush, Msenne'

;

that

is

not the

way

are laughing at me," I urged, for

" ?

Bula Matari, the

only Bula Matari, the good Bula Matari "

Wy-yanzi

of Mswata, the friend of

" !

You

to speak.

my

modesty was

shocked.

" Never mind

;

Msenne knows the way

heart of the Wy-yanzi.

Ha

!

it

takes

me

into

to

the

conquer

their obduracy."

"Wy-yanzi

of Lukoieia, here sits Bula Matavi

He

has come here to make friends with you. food.

He

is

prepared to pay well.

Now

is

!

He

wants

the time

!

A POOR RECEPTIOX for

Mungawa

Inka and

to

15

show themselves kind

friends

i883.

June

to

Bula Matari."

Then up and spoke " See here,

Ibaka

men

Ibaka's slaver.

of Lukolela,

— Ibaka of Bolobo Let your

we

are the servants of

Ibaka has made brotherhood

!

Ibaka commanded us to take him

with Bula Matari. to you.

chiefs,

luka and Mungawa, come out

and give the good word."

The steamers held on accents of

At

village.

that

all

their way.

Msenne were heard

The

waste steam.

far

The

stentorian

above the escape of

were unrolled before every

cloths

the third village, however, a reply

came

the chiefs were dead, and that small-[)Ox had

decimated the inhabitants, and that famine was killing the people that were

" Frightful,"

banks look too

We

came

we

half an hour later

men on

the

be suffering from famine."

upper extremity of the community, five miles of the left

we came

and issued out a

we camped in followed, we prepared

to

where the Congo con1;^

miles

to the left bank.

Hoping

we

should be

the neighbourhood to

bank, and

stately united flood

wide from the right bank that if

" But those

exclaimed.

fat to

to the

left

which occupied about

tracted

put up for the night in the

forest.

As we fowls,

anticipated, the natives soon

goats,

cassava

rolls,

and palm

we had

oil

ripe

1.

Lukolela.

and

gi'een plantains

came

up,

and

and bananas,

cassava flour, sweet potatoes, yams, eggs,

were bartered so speedily that by sunset

sufficient to last

two or three days.

Still,

as

we

TEE CONGO.

16 1883.

Lukoieia.

were ignorant how

f;ir

we might have

to proceed before

meeting with another market so well supplied as

this,

we agreed to resume the marketing next morning. At sunrise the following day canoe after canoe appeared, and the barter was so successfully conducted •that

we had soon

secured three dozen fowls, four goats,

a sheep, and eight days' rations for each

The

coloured force.

strange steamer was tion.

We

of the

fear the natives entertained of the

now changed

for liveliest admira-

were no longer supposed

mischief, but full of

member

to be laden

with

They had informed

"good things."

us that they were dying of famine yesterday, but this

day plenty had come back

to them, their chiefs lived,

and no plague or pest decimated the people

We

!

asked them slyly what was the cause of this

remarkable change. " Oh," they replied, " said in our fear of jow.

their fathers before

why

do you remember what we

Neither our oldest people nor

them ever saw or heard

of such

things as these," pointing to the steamers.

As

it

was a

capital position for a station,

hinted to them that on our return

we

we

delicately

should have some

more words with them.

The people of Lukoieia some twenty years ago

lived

on the right bank, but the Irebu warriors, during a

little

misunderstanding with them, descended the river and attacked and burnt their villages; upon which, after

peace was restored, they crossed the Congo and established themselves on the left

along the river.

bank

in the noble forest

2

NO OMSK

Two

17

hours steaming midday on

tlie

2nd of June took

us tlirough the whole length of this narrow and singular

The

contraction of the Congo. hill

left

bank

rises into

a

probably 100 feet above the river, nourishing mag-

nificent timber

;

the right

much higher than

bank of the islets

shows that

of the river channel, and

its fine trees.

river,

also

it

is

the ground above or below this

strait-like contraction

remarkable for

bank

we

also

is

clinging to the

Still

left

entered a narrow channel between

exuberant with flourishing

showing alternately prairie

forests,

levels,

and low shores

and low,

tree-clad

ridges running perpendicularly to the river.

We

passed three villages, which sent out scouts to us

with fresh

and

fish to sell,

the strange craft that

to glean intelligence about

made such unusual

were too small and insignificant

They

noises.

to induce us to delay

our advance.

On

the evening of this day as

a deserted village

we were

at

camp

in

two hours above the highest of these

villages, fourteen dense divisions

of small birds were

seen flying from the direction of the right to the

left

bank, and a straggling army of large birds of the

size

of crows followed too high to enable

On camp

the dusk deepened

till

me

;

they were

to distinguish them.

the evening of the next day, liaving selected a a few miles below

us, calling

out the

pronunciation.

Ngombe, two canoes approached

name

of " Stanley " with excellent

They had picked up the name by some

odd fashion, and would doubtless have hailed the white with

it

in the

Vol. II.—

same way. They only wished

first

to sell

isss.

Lukoieia

TEE CONGO.

18 1883.

June

and young

fish

Our

crocodiles.

engineers, from pure

3.

Ngombe.

and purchased one young croco-

^^^^ patronised them, dile,

we came

of whose character

to

know

before he deserted us.

The crocodihan

what we discovered of

it,

The ungrateful

novel.

fine

one

for a

beast, lashed to a strong

our kindness to him,

close to the river, despite

tree

character, from

would make a

little

a great deal

deserted our expedition during the night.

Lukolela

finds the hatching of crocodiles to be remunerative.

When

nests are discovered, they take

them

place

when

in sand in a locality

the shell

is

They

net.

and

disturbed,

broken and the young emerge,

they are placed in a pond which

with a

little

the eggs and

is

carefully covered

are here fed until they have attained

a certain weight and size

;

and on market days they

are taken out to be sold.

On

the

districts,

4th of June

first

Ngombe', which

contraction of the at Lukolela.

from four to

we passed

Congo

is

several

populous

situated at another

similar to the one described

Below and above Ngombe the river six miles

various channels of the

wide

;

Congo

but at the strait

all

is

the

are united in one stream,

which flows nearly two miles wide with a strong current.

On

the

left

bank

is

Ngombe, high and dry on a

level

about 40 feet above the river, with a wealth of banana-

groves and other signs of abundance.

A is

few miles higher up than the Strait of Ngombe'

the district of Nkuku, inhabited by a people that

showed a strong

inclination to trade.

They followed

us for such a distance, offering articles for sale without

CORDIAL RECEPTION OF USINDL

showed us a couple of Muscovy ducks,

success, until tliey

which we

bouo-ht with the value of

Two

we

hours later

delight.

Malamu

!

\s. 4c/.

each.

malarau

!

at

cries expressive of

frantic " ("

Good

!

good

!

")

was

echoed from end to end.

One hour beyond Butunu we came district of Usindi, the

to the populous

inhabitants of which were out-

rageous in their clamours of applause. in

irrepressible

so

their joy that

These were

a hearty response

from our side was not deemed enough.

hundred manned their canoes, followed

and

at us,

we

until

En

Avanf, sprawled over everybody, shook

hands with white

when

bawled

us,

Eleven fellows immediately came

halted.

aboard the

About a

stormed at us in a friendly manner,

finally

and

black,

old

and young, and

they saw the black boiler they seemed to look so

earnestly at

that

it

it

might have been thought

More of

tiiey

would embrace

it.

pressible rogues

would have come aboard had we per-

mitted

it,

but as

we were

and steamed back again

these

thoughtless, irre-

already captured

we

yielded

to the landing-place of Usindi,

the hardy eleven looking as proud as though they had

done a gallant deed worthy of the Victoria or the Iron cross.

On met

the shore a perfect hurst of joyful welcoming

Such an extraordinary

us.

Butunu

people

smiled

on

Usindi

shot out to midstream to embrace

remarkable

us

;

and

sudden

hailed

us

as

Nkuku

!

friends,

us

i883. vi,

Butunu,

arrived opposite

which the natives raised "

19

!

but

This

develojDment of friendship

i.

THE CONGO.

20 1883.

June

among

people 300 miles above Stanley Pool excited

wonder

for

4.

Usindi.

some hours,

their people

had seen

many

until they told us that

Le'opoldville

of

and Kintamo, and

had seen our big house and wagons and boats

in the

port.

Our that

reception at Usindi

we

was

warm and

so

friendly

passed a very agreeable time there until noon luka, the chief, would have given

of the 5th.

of his village had

we asked

for

it

— anything,

being

I observed,

half

we

did

They were a

but agree to stop and build with them.

most polite people,

me

all

unanimous

to

abstain from giving the least offence or alarm, and

keeping

back every warlike weapon

into view.

I

may

civilisation that I

fident in their it

say this was the

saw any such

own

was not necessary

from

first

coming

spot out of

polite delicacy.

Con-

strength, I presume, they thought to

have recourse

to the barbarous

art of terrorising.

Seventy minutes above Usindi we entered a deep

we

channel 300 yards wide, between a reedy island, as

imagined

it

to

be,

and a

cluster of towns, than the one

shore along

its

larger settlement, or

still

we had

was

entire length

just

lined with

of bronze-bodied people, but not one voice calling out to us. trust,

and

This

we took

affected to pass on

;

canoemen

to approach.

invitation to visit

We

to be an

hundreds

was heard

omen of

dis-

we had not proceeded channel before we were

halted and permitted the

They bore

Mangombo,

The

but

more than a few miles up the aware we were pursued.

left.

to us, tbey said,

chief of Irebu.

an

THE nOME OF THE CHAMPION TRADEBS.

Of

we knew it was tlie populous home of the champion traders on

course

Irebu, the

21

district of

isss.

Upper

1,.^,^,^

the

Congo, rivalled only in numbers and enterprise by

Ubangi on the right bank. in canoes,

Irebu traders, descending

overwhelmed the aborigines of Lukolela,

the latter themselves had admitted.

as

They had mastered

populous Ngombe', awed Nkuku, Butimu and Usindi,

and we had heard vague rumours that they had taught the fierce Bangala to treat their traders with respect.

was

It

pride of

in fact a its

Venice of the Congo, seated in the

great numbers between the dark waters of

Lukanga and

the

the

deep brown channels of the

parent stream.

There were hundreds of people standing eagerly expectant of the arrival of the of

Upper

Irebu, men,

flotilla in

women and

the covelet

children,

from the

very old and grey-heailed to the young naked copperskinned gamin.

Though

so

numerous, an instinctive

hush governed the crowd into deep engines

silence as

the

stopped and the boats glided to their berths

along the shore.

Not

until

the

crew leaped over the

gunwales with the anchors, and the chains ceased

running through the brazen chocks, was the silence broken, and then a muffled

murmur

of applause

was

heard as each remarked to the other his admiration of the vessels.

Mangombo, with

a curious long staff a fathom

and a

half in length, having a small spade of brass at one

much resembling a baker's He was a man probably front.

end,

cake-spade, stood in sixty years old, but

THE CONGO.

22 1883.

June

active,

6.

irebu.

and by no means a^ed-lookins^, o o and he waited

On going

to greet me.

by Mangombo and about

ashore

my

hand was grasped

half-a-dozen of the principal

men, and we sought the shade of a convenient

by the waterside I

to talk.

was very soon impressed by the

ance of the

men grouped around

intelligent appear-

Tl^ey had an air

me.

of worldly knowledge and travel about them, very ferent from the stupid bewildering

"which

we were

tree

wonderment with

For these people were

so familiar.

really acquainted with

dif-

many

lands and tribes on the

of 600 miles,

From Stanley Pool to Upoto, a distance they knew every landing-place on the

river banks.

All the ups and downs of savage

Upper Congo.

the profits and losses derived from barter,

all

the diplo-

matic arts used by tactful savages were as well to

them

Roman

as the

alphabet

is

life, all

known

They knew

to us.

the varied lengths of the sina ("long" of cloth), the

number

matako (brass

of

whether of

savelist,

twill, stripe, ticking,

rods)

florentine,

they were worth,

unbleached domestic,

blue and white baft

;

the value of

beads per thousand strings, as compared with uncut pieces of sheeting, or kegs of

They could

muskets, short and long.

on the arm, what at

profit

gunpowder, or tell,

flint-lock

by poising

on an ivory tusk purchased

Langa-Langa would be derived by

sale at Stanley

Pool!

No wonder left its traces

your own

that all this mercantile knowledge had

on their faces

cities

of Europe.

;

indeed

it is

Know you

the same as in

not the military

NATIVE KNOWLEDGE OF TRADE.

man among

you, the lawyer or

banker, the artist or the poet

more

?

23

merchant, the

the

the same in Africa,

It is

on the Congo, where the people are so

especially

devoted to trade.

There

is

a slight difference, however,

in the features (or rather air diffused over them) of the

resident trader

may

and the trading navigator. The resident

be a sharp

man

not to be boorish,

On

at a bargain, but he is as likely as

rustic, or unsophisticated in

the other hand, the Wy-yanzi traders of Usindi,

Butunu, Ubangi, and Irebu are sedate and sessed

in

their

business-like

may

manner.

deportment,

directness

and

while

a

open-minded simplicity

same time they are barbarous enough not

They

At

quite surprised me,

by declaring they were even then Irebu was at war with

be heard even then at

Lower Irebu it,

though

I

the

to be averse

and analytical perusal of their

after a careful

frank

certain

be observed in their mode of speech.

from fighting on occasion.

self-pos-

!

war

at

features,

Upper

!

The guns could

had not the

slightest

idea they were fighting.

Generally the

Congo

river tribes

first is

day of acquaintance

with the

devoted to chatting, sounding one

another's principles, and getting at one another's ideas.

The

chief entertains his guest with gifts of food, goats,

beer, fish, &c.

;

then on the next day commences business

and reciprocal exchange of

Mangombo gave

gifts.

So

it

was

at Irebu.

four hairy thin-tailed sheep, ten

glorious bunches of bananas,

two great pots of

beer,

and

the usual accompaniments of small stores.

The next day we made blood brotherhood.

The

isss. ifebu.*

:

THE CONGO.

24 1883.

fetish-man pricked each of our right arms, pressed the

irebu.

blood out, then, with a pinch of scrapings from

my gun-

few dusty scrapings from a long

stock, a Httle saU, a

wounded arms, and the black

pod, dropped over the

and white arms were mutually rubbed together.

The

fetish-man took the long pod in his hand and slightly

touched our necks, our heads, our arms, and our legs,

What

muttering rapidly his litany of incantations.

was

in a

folded

Mangombo and and we bore it

of the medicine

left

between us

banana to a

leaf,

banana grove

close by,

I carefully

reverently

and buried

tiie

dust out of sight.

Mangombo, now my

my

of blood, consecrated to in the sacred fetish trouble,

to

my

aid.

were gathered round

which the following "

Some time ago

gala).

My men

service as I

bond

and implored

was devoted

his service, revealed his

The

notables of Irebu

and then Mangombo spoke, of

us, is

by solemn interchange

brother,

the substance

I sent

three canoes to Iboko (Ban-

traded prosperously

;

they had obtained

A valuable cargo of ivory, and were about returning,

when and

a sudden quarrel took place between the

Our people were on shore; they fought

Irebu.

stubbornly to save their ivory thirty-three to save a

were

few

trade

were

killed

;

tell

was stopped.

;

out of seventy people

thirty-seven of

tusks, seized

paddled away to all

Ban gala

them managed

one of their canoes, and

us this dismal story.

Of

those thirty-three

slain in the fight, twenty-eight

but five belonged to Lower Irebu.

were of

Of

course

men who

my

town

;

You must know

WAE IN community of Irebu

that the

25

IREBU.

divided into three parts

is

•^

—Lower, Upper, and Central Irebn. of

Lower Irebu

am lord

;

Mpika

^

^

Magwala

is

chief

chief of Central Irebu

is

;

I

Magwala and Mangombo

of the upper portion.

are the principal chiefs, and before this misfortune,

which

I

am

about to

tell

you, occurred, I was con-

sidered the superior chief of

Some months

all.

young men

the massacre of our

after

at Iboko, a flotilla of

Bangala canoes were seen going down river bound

Mpika heard of

Ngombe.

this,

to

and giving chase

captured a canoe with eight of the Bangala on board.

Mpika, forgetting that his five, did

fair,

not deign to

but

prisoners,

when

he replied,

them.

I

'

No

On

prisoners.'

Mpika was

for

I.

him asking him

be

to

and should keep what he had

right,

people in four fights

My

:

people, however, were

was too recent and

their loss

;

me I

it.

have

lost six

over twenty of

more of

my men

Magwala and Mpika have lifts

its

go out and come

in

hands against Irebu All trade

by night only.

of Irebu are mourning daily

;

About

to declare war.

and brothers slay one another.

We

share of the

appealing to Magwala, he answered

we began

Irebu

to

my men who captured revenge for my five. Go you will not give you one of my

too great, and they forced

heavily.

men

they were

;

not satisfied with this

been wounded.

me have my

let

obtained by force of arms.

ten days ago

twenty-eight

lost

I sent to

keep these in

and do likewise,

that

had

I

and

is

my

have

also lost ;

friends

stopped.

The women

if this evil,

which

isss.

June

.

is

worse even than the small-pox, continues much longer.

6.

irebu.

THE CONGO.

26 1883.

June

ij.gj,u

to

strongest tribe

tlie

river.

Now, Bula

you have come

Matari,

from

save us

many

We

canoes,

were coming down river

we

we

that large island, but

have

Chumbiri told us your name

When you

was Stanley.

good time

in

mutual slaughter.

this

heard of you years ago.

with your

as

.

on the great "

known

be no longer

Irebii will

6.

lay in wait for you behind

We

did not attack you.

heard of Bula Matari building towns at Kintamo, at

Mswata, and Bolobo

;

but

we

did not

know who Bula

Matari was, until Ibaka, some moons past, told us that

You

Bula Matari was Stanley.

You must " I

save Irebu from death and ruin." I replied, " I

Mangombo,"

should like to do

have other work before me.

and on

first,

belong to Irebu now.

my

must go

but

it,

to

Ikengo

return I will do what I can.

Mean-

I

time, stop fighting." "

Ah, that

must

easy to say

is

also stop fighting.

" I will send a boat to

asked

me

to

settle

!

but Mngwala and Mpika

Will you speak to them?" tell

them that Mangombo has

the war, but that

now and I will ask them to to make peace." Enough has been said, as near

w^ait

;

words as the

necessities of this

to

book

internecine

war which was raging

flourishing

and populous

According opposite

to

my

Mpika

offered to me'liate

districts

I

cannot stay

until

I

return

Mangombo's own will permit, of this

in one of the most

on the Upper Congo.

promise I proceeded in

my

boat

and Magwala's landing-phices, and between the contending

factions,

on

LUKANOA the condition

tliat

27

RIVER.

they would refrain from hostilities

i883.

June

during it

Mpika consented immediately,

fifteen days.

fortunately turned out that he

as

was the blood-brother

of Lieutenant Janssen at Mswata, and that he origi-

owned the large canoe then lashed alongside of

nally

Magwala was not

the steam-launch Royal.

so willing to

agree to the compact of truce, but was finally prevailed

upon by

his friend Mpika.

Upper Irebu

I observed that in the covelet of

was no

and

curi'ent,

I

suspected that there must be

another lake in the vicinity, and on inquiry tained that there

up the Lukanga

was ;

there

I

ascer-

" big water " a few hours' journey

but the Congo tribes are in daily

presence of such large bodies of water, that the vicinity of a lake appears to be nothing extraordinary to them.

only with inland peoples that

It is

it

becomes a worthy

This accounts for the great

topic to boast of lakes.

difficulty of exciting sufficient interest in these riverine

draw from them exact information.

They

always use the terms " plenty of water," " big

water,'*

tribes to

" big

river,"

which

find

I

by experience

to

apply

equally to streams furnishing just sufficient water for

canoe navigation.

The water of the Lukanga colour as the Mfini and

of the Irebu stated to kabi's

and

floating

had

me

of the same black

Le'opold

IL

;

and some

that they could reach

Gan-

by navigating the Lukanga, Mantumba Lake,

Mfini River. I

Lake

is

down

a river to

This aroused

Lake

my

Le'opold II.

and the

curiosity greatly, but

to defer the investigation of the truth of this

6.

i^^^^^

THE CONGO.

28 1883.

report until

my

return from the equatorial district, as

June 6 irebu.

I

had not the means

to idly feed eighty people.

With a guide from Mangombo Mswata, we

set out

and

from the mouth

Msenne'

of

Lukanga

of the

and Upper Irebu, on the afternoon of the 6th of June,

up the Congo.

Among

the topics I heard

discussed between

the

groups of commoners near the landing-place of Irebu

was the

between Stanley and Bula Matari.

difference

The majority contended

"Mundele" who appeared on the

first

was the

that though Stanley

and

river,

who attempted to stop him., yet it was really Bula Matari who sent him to find all about the country, and who owned all the men and canoes. For, look you, Stanley had only canoes like we have, fought everybody

whereas

this

Bula Matari has only one canoe

rest are boats that

No

we never saw

Stanley must be

:

captain

;

for,

you

see,

and thousands upon

;

rods

;

to

the

the like anywhere.

Bula Matari's

vizier,

or big

Bula Matari has many towns, thousands

of

bales

of

" Stanley gave proper measure of brass rods

we go

all

Kintamo we

shall

cloth. ;

when

ask for Stanley's brass

they are half as long again as the rods of the

Bateke at the Pool."

The to

notables of Irebu were urgent for the medicine

make wealth grow

quickly.

I

imparted to them

the lesson of trading, but this advice they rejected with

scorn and contempt.

They knew

well enough

how

to

trade, but their wealth they confessed never increased. *'

You," said they, " must have some charm by which

COOKING THE BIG FOT. your

store increases without car6.

We

29

saw

at

Kintamo

i883.

June

one day your shelves

when we

We

called they

wish to

The

know

empty; the very next day

all

were

filled

from top

to bottom.

this secret."

of Ibaka boasted that they

slaves

knew

it,

consequently their hut was besieged with applicants,

and they made nearly two hundred brass rods by their extraordinary charlatanry.

Another subject of interested discussion among the

What was En Avantf

Irebu was, " of the

it

that turned the paddle-wheels

This was a

Some would have it that twenty men concealed somewhere in them.

Others doubted

steamer.

was

that the secret

why

wise it

that,

difficult

there were

the bottom of the

and hotly maintained

in that " big pot " (boiler), other-

But what was

fire inside.

the engineer was cooking so industriously

was another

that

it

is," said

;

and

all

!

that

that

they, "it takes a long time

It

all

day, and

must be a strong medicine

that large pile of

The two other

wood has been used

up.

boats have similar pots, into which their

cooks shove in fuel continually. Perhaps big pots in our canoes, and

man's medicine,

arms

Ah

?

That engineer has been cooking

not finished yet.

is

it

puzzle.

" Whatever

it

about

should the cook (engineer) be always near

making up the

to cook.

puzzle to

we need

at our paddles,

and

if

we had some

not

toil

suffer

we had

also

of the white

any more with tired

from aches and pains

in

our shoulders." Fifty

miles

above Irebu we

came

to

Ikengo

at

6.

irebu

THE CONGO.

30 1883.

ikengo,

The land between had

10 A.M. on the 8th of June.

heen almost one unbroken verdant

— teak, fine

mahogany, guiacum, red and yellow wood,

gum,

plane,

and bombax abundant, and frequently

The

of enormous girth. forests

of fine timber

forest,

of equal

islands

were long, and showed

height and luxuriance,

sides presented tangled

while

their

undergrowths of various species

of palms and rattan.

On

the appearance of the

flotilla,

dashed out into the stream to meet canoes,

the Ikengo people

of tiny

us, in scores

crying out their welcome, and shouting the

all

praises of their various villages, precisely like liotel touters throughout the Levant. *'

Come

to Ikengo/'

they cried.

Ikengo has abundance of food."

Come and women,

see Inganda.

goats, sheep,

abundance.

And

"No, come

Inganda has Inganda

pigs.

There

is

is

ivoryc,

is

rich;

Itumbu.

to

slaves,

blessed with

Stanley, have you forgotten us

traded with you years ago

Ikengo.

"Ikengo

;

we who

Ah, Stanley, come on

?

to

plenty of beer and wine in Ikengo."

thus these extraordinary people extolled the vir-

tues of their respective villages,

making the

river alive

with their increasing throng and restless movement. After carefully weighing the various advantages of the villages, since I well recognised the locality, wliich in

1877 provided

me by

their

one of the islands opposite,

I

impromptu market on

chose Inganda as a tem-

porary resting-place.

Like

all

the Wy-yanzi, from the

Kwa

upward, the

people were of a wholesome, healthy bronze colour, but.

INQANDA.

31

unlike the others, they affected caps of monkey, otter,

1883.

June

leopard, goat, and antelope skin, while their swords

hung suspended by broad

shoulder-belts of red buffalo-

Cotton cloth, however, was rare anions^ these

hide.

A VERY POOR NATIVE OF INGANDA AND HIS DRESS.

people, their dress being a fine or coarse tissue

grassy I

made

of

fibre.

selected

Inganda

while affecting to

as

make

a stopping place,

preparations for settlement, I

might reconnoitre that large mentioned in the

'

whence,

affluent

the

Ikelemba,

Through the Dark Continent.'

Pos-

8.

Ikengu.

TEE CONGO.

32 1883.

June

might secure a

sibly I

the confluence.

site at

If the

11.

ingauda.

natives were too wild to permit of a settlement there,

then

I

might remain

and wait the progress

at Inganda,

of our influeuce.

Numerous

inquiries about the distinctions

the rivers meeting elicited the most confusing

The Ikelemba was distance between

large

;

but

when they

between I'eplies.

illustrated the

bank and bank by an object near

them, the width seemed to vary between 50 and 100 This was incredible.

yards. stated

it

be about 1000 yards wide.

to

I

book

I

had

had viewed

it

These were the same people who formerly

personally.

had

my former

In

called the river " Ikelemba," or " Buruki."

A com-

municative aborigine, hailing from Bungata, on the

drew a curve on the ground, and near the

right bank,

middle of

its

convex

at equal

side,

three lines at right angles to

distances, joined

the lowest

it,

marked

as

the channel coming from Bungata, the second channel

flowing from Lulungu, the highest proceeding from

Ikelemba River.

named Buruki

The upper horn

or Mohindu.

of the curve he

The lower horn of the

curve was called Inganda, where

we were encamped.

This curve, then, seemed to represent a river into

which three channels ran describe the

— he five

Mohindu

river

;

I

asked him to

— Mohindu signifying

contemptuously described

yards wide

when

but

it

to

black

be about twenty-

!

Well, then, what great river was that which I saw

approaching the broad Congo, attracting gaze by

its

magrn'ficent breadth

;

my

curious

tea-dark in colour, as

3

BURTJKI.

strong

a contrast to the flood

my

along, as the sable faces of

own

I

?

I

was impatient

my

bore

tliat

canoes

crew diifered from

was becoming exasperated

and

ness,

33

at

my own

my

obtuse-

which

to settle the doubts

ngitated me.

Leaving the

rest of the expedition

En

steamed up river in the " mngnificent "

whence

I

tea-coloured

had viewed

it

I

Congo.

very

the

six years previouslv,

conceived to be I

tlie

and

greatest tributary of the

steamed across from the islands to the

we

mainland, and half-way across the river the tea-hued half of

what

Within

affluent.

a glow of satisfaction in again looking upon

felt

what

I

1

Avant, in search of that

minutes I had arrived near

seventy-five

spot

and

Inganda,

at

On

it.

I considered to be the

1000 yards

with a three-knot current.

entered

proceeding fairly out of

Congo proper

reduced to 800 yards, but

I

left

into

it

it,

the

was deep,

Four hours above Inganda,

during which the "magnificence" of

my

affluent

whs

considerably diminished, owing to the fact that three

channels had been seen coming from the Congo proper, the river took a decided turn south-east, felt

I

convinced that

I

was ascending a tributary.

was not a whit elated

River had decreased

and then

at discovering that the

to a breadth of

I

But

Dark

about 600 yards.

Buruki, which name the aborigines had repeated so often,

was a

large

town

situated

on the

left

bank of

the Mohindu, about three miles above the confluence.

The

shores on either side were low, on the right hand

too low to be inhabited, the river water penetrating

Vol. 11.—

\m:\.

jngan.in

THE CONGO.

34 1883.

liuiuki."

far over the

swampy

The

land.

but hardy look about

it,

timluer

bad a young

just such as one

would sup-

pose would thrive in low lands, although here and

was

there a crown of dark foliage

uplifted high above

others.

all

Islands began to be seen, but the disparting of the

stream did not improve

its

We

dignity.

were

fully

three hours en route before the banks appeared, so high

had

tlie

young

Ink water and dense

river risen.

trees

were not interesting;

strictly speaking,

The En Avant, unen-

they approached to the dismal.

cumbered with a boat

forests of

astern, proceeded rapidly

up the

even-flowing current, and not a single incident transpired, nor a single object

when we camped on we discovered. The character

me

of

the

what

hove in view, up first trifling bit

I

to sunset,

bank

of dry

saw of the river inspired

with the impression that

it

belonged to a delta,

having a number of narrow creeks, of wonderful

The

crookedness, constantly emptying into the river.

lowness of the land, the young, yet hardy look of the forest

everywhere

;

the blackness of such portions of

alluvium as rose to sight, the dead, untroubled silence, the even-flowing, rippleless eddyless current, nay, let

us call

it

impression.

the African Styx, assisted to convey that

Were

it

not for the white sun, that gave

sheen and greenness to the fresh leafage of the the prospect had

forest,

been cheerless indeed.

The next morning found with an ample supply

us, at

dawn, under weigh,

of red, or rather purple,

hard

A rnHEATENING DANCE. wood on board

but a

;

little

before 7 a.m. native Imts

appeared on the right bank, and on uplifted into a

When we came

left

We

woods

forest

Was

there a war

?

But the En Avant rushes up the centre of the

stream, and as

tlie

land improves, rising into clay and

20 and 30 feet above the stream, a peopled

bluffs,

seen, first

is

bank, and

all

on the

left,

and then on the right

at once the edges of the river

enlivened with yellow-bodied people,

They

ferocious St. Yitus's dance.

many

The

we

the villagers gone a-picnicking into the wild

all

?

village

brig-ht

looked to the banana groves, and

discovered not a single soul in view.

Or had

the land

opposite the huts,

that they bore the signs of newness.

was uncleared.

rock

tlie

wholesome height, shaded by

green bananas.

saw

35

banks are

afflicted

with a

leap upward, like

sO'

acrobats suddenly afflicted with a terpsichorean

mania, flankwise and rearward, then forward with a rush,

bows

seem

to touch the

in hand,

drawn

taut until the arrowheads

Those armed with a spear and

bow.

shield only practise a Pyrrhic dance, and, but for the

deep river, we would take on

On

us.

it

that they were chaiging

the right bank, as well as on the left bank,

the people are doing their best to exhibit their

ledge of course. at

war games. I

human

have always

is

felt

very interesting, of

all

more

interest in looking

nature than in studying other aspects of

creation, but just

came

It

know-

now

it

is

this

Black River that

I

to see.

The En Avant goes plunging on knots an hour.

Village

after

at the rate of seven

village turns

out

its

isss.

— THE CONGO.

36 1883.

dancing corps of copper-breasted braves; the right bank, as well as the

There

exhibitions.

is

left

banlc, salute

us with these

a mile long stretch of hutted

bank, followed by about two miles long of forest

;

then

a similar village, followed by a similar forest, and over the villages are the bananas, seen to the darker palms nodding in

sun shines steadily over

this interval of

softly,

At noon we

all.

in 0° 4'

N.

are 0°

to

by con-

with sounding pole, was unknown.

Tiny

appear to relieve the monotony of the

began

level.

At about the eightieth mile from the we slackened speed, and tried to open a

to

conflu-

conver-

sation with the people of a pleasant-looking village.

few of the principal men advanced firmly

to the

do not

know who you

you come near enough If

fighting.

you wish

return, the river

Was clearly

to

the

go on

your intent.

shore

— go.

we If

will

If

begin

you wish

to

but touch not the land."

there ever such candour, so beautifully and expressed,

speaking

We

is free,

to

is

:

or whence you

are,

came, or whither you go, or what

A

edge of

the river bank, and one spoke unhesitatingly thus

"We

in

bank, was 400 yards

hills

ence

and

Lat.,

in width, with a 2^ knot current; the depth, trial

6' S.

time we had crossed the Equator twice.

The Black River, from bank tinuous

with

harmony, while the white

The day before we were

Lat.

wave

or

was

it

the

guide's

way

of

?

returned the

way we came,

accompanied by a shower of

our departure being

sticks, clods,

stones, &c.,

which, however, did not approach within 200 yards of

WANG ATA. our steamer. torial

At

It is

37

probably in this

way

these equa-

people express their farewell! 8

P.M.

we

reached the

Wangafa.

camp we had

left

in the

morniug, and arrived at noon the next day

at the

A NATIVE

junction of the

ISSUING TO

THE WAK.

Mohindu, or Black River, with the

Congo.

At Wangata,

seven

miles

below,

commanding a

view of the junction of three channels— the right going

lip

to

Bungata, the middle leading to the Ikel-

emba and the Lulungu

isax

rivers, the left leading to the

THE CONGO.

38 1883.

Juue

Black River

—we

halted to converse with the people,

13.

Wangata.

^"^ wcic invitcd

Here tribe

to.

w^e learned that

which begins

town

approach the landing-place.

at the

at

we were among

the Bakuti, a

Ikengo and ends at Baruki, the

mouth of

tlie

On

the rio-ht

the large

island of

Mohindn.

bank are situated the Baicanga

;

Nsambana, nearly twenty-five miles

in length, occupies

the centre of the Congo, between the two tribes.

The Bakuti soon made

friendshi23 with us after the

Land was

customary forms of blood brotherhood.

shown

to us to build upon, then after leaving

pledges for our return, the next day tion

we hastened

we packed up and

neighbourhood of Wangata, at 0°

is

1'

situated

0" N.

lat.

form

its

garrison.

Yangele

until

a

further

goods could be conveyed

to

to assist Lieutenant

reinforcement of

him from

halted a few days to assist with our crews the

new

station,

as for the settlement of all claims, payments,

distribution of gifts to important persons

return to

;

and on the

we descended the Congo River on our Irebu, where we arrived after seven hours

20th of June

and

men and

Le'opoldville.

clearing of the bush from the site of the as well

to

Lieutenant Coquilhat, with

twenty more men, was appointed

We

new

and twenty-six men were delivered over

station, to

the

in

Lieutenant Yangele was appointed chief of the

him

On

Inganda.

transported the expedi-

Equator Station, which

to

to

human

fortv-five minutes' steaminir.

—A

AN EMBARRASSING FAREWELL.

39

CHAPTER XXYII. FROM THE BLACK RIVER TO STANLEY POOL AND BACK TO EQUATOR STATION. An

— Chili pepper and tears— Success of a hypo— Sounds of war — Peace-making— Burying the war — The Lukanga river— Mantumba Lake — The "Watwa dwarfs — Eescue of a shipwrecked crew — The Abbe Guyot— The lion and his prey — Leopoldville flourishing — Troubles at Bwa-bwa Njali's —

embarrassing farewell stratagem

critical

— Lieutenant Janssen and tlie Abbe Guyot drowned Kimpoko Troubles at Bolobo— The station burnt— We are fired upon War A Kri;pp gun sent for — Weak effects of nnxsketry — Peace restored Settling the indemnity— Displaying the power of the Krupp " I and my people will depart from Bolobo for ever!" The river of Bunga — Lukolela — A magnificent forest The superstition of luka Excellent condition of Equator Station homicidal

officer

— Troubles

at





— — —





My ideal

The

achieved.

love which the people of Inganda bore

we became we were in

iis

was

so

excessive, that

conscious on leaving Eqiiatoi'

Station that

a

tell

them that the dank

How

difficulty.

forest bight, with its

could

we

edging of

reeds and stagnant spaces around Inganda, was hurtful to the health of

pelled,

Europeans, and that

on account of sanitary and

tions, to

remove from

would be

When

Msenne'

political considera-

their village to

a delicate task

— our

we were com-

Wangata?

This

!

guide from Mswata

— was

in-

iss.s.

jn^.^nj.,'

40 1883.

THE CONGO.

.

formed

tliat,

although

Juue 21. inaanJa.

T^s

move,

to

.

we

stiU,

was

absolutely necessary for 1 1 t'ti experienced a dislike to wound it

the susceptibilities of the Inganda people, he, after a

we had better leave the and we should have no further

thoughtful pause, said that

matter

in

his hands,

As he was so confident, and as cheery as a lawyer who has a good case, and as he knew the natives better than we did, we agreed to leave it to

trouble.

him

He communicated

entirely.

vant Dualla and to Umari, and learned later

how he had

my

my

ser-

was through them

accomplished

Having obtained permission without interference on

it

his ideas to

I

it.

to carry out his design

unless there were

part,

visible signs of failure, he proceeded to put in practice

what he designed.

He

first

rolled his long cloth tight

around his waist as though

it

were a cord, and then

with a Chili pepper touched his eye?, and, having the copious tears to

started

roll

down

his

face,

he

assumed such a woe-begone, down-drooping aspect, that I

No

was

afraid Dualla

sooner had

Inganda,

we

had replied offensively

arrived at the landing-place of

than he stepped

hail, regardless

to him.

on shore, deaf

to every

of everybody, and leaving the boat, he

proceeded slowly to an open place on shore, where he stood

solitarily conspicuous, while

the

natives gathered ai'ound him, urging

hushed voices,

to

ill

him mildly, with

respond to the greetings.

" Well, Msenne, have you

"What

poor deluded

has befallen

These were often

come ?

"

"

What news ?

"

you?"

repeated

to

the

absent-minded

— HYPOCEISY.

who was

Mseiiiie,

so

immersed

was heedless of them,

'

41 his sorrow, that ho

in

until,' at last,' in a

broken voice

interrupted by sobs and bursts of assumed anger, he

condescended to unfold the pitiful tale of woe.

The

story as a

comedy

capitally related

away

part of Afiica there

a Shakespeare and Milton,

as a

must have been

who have mutely and

unhonoured and unsung by

ingloriously died unwept,

the ignorant civilised world, and whose humble lie

;

was surpassingly well done, and proved that

it

in this far

many

was

story

mounds

nameless under the tropic shade.

"Two

days from here, up that black river

— there were many

what do ye

call it?

Bakuti

and a market was

side,

invited us in.

We

— the

villages on the

The wild people

held.

ranged the boat alongside the bank.

Mangombo's boy, and one of Bula Matari's men and sprang on shore, and thing before!

was

speared

tlien

— Irebu's boy

— ah,

I

never saw such a

I

by

escaped

through the treacherous crowd into the

had already shoved

I

was caught, the Zanzibari

and

instantly,

river.

off at the first alarm,

leaping

The boat

and now,

tell

What answer shall I return to Mangombo, of Irebu, when he asks me for his boy? You men of Stanley, why stand ye here ? Let me, friends, what must

Pack up, and

us go.

fight until there

Have you friends?

what you

!

will "

is

I

let

do?

us go on to the fight, and

not one of the wretches

people no hearts

How

'

to

feel

for

left alive.

your dead

we return to Irebu? What, Mangombo say to me? Pack up, I shall

and here Msenne actually sobbed aloud.

oh, tell

isss.

,"°^

,

Ingandii.

TEE CONGO.

42

Dualla and Umari,

1883.

who were

June 21. inganda.

morrow we

shall

.

we

Let us buy food to-day, and

to-

Cease grieving

;

war."

to the

natives also joined in consolations, and offered

The

Inganda and Ikengo

to muster all

a

go

.

can

soothicgly " Pcacc, Mscnne'. fight without food?

in the secret, cried out

^

,

time Msenne hushed

little

for the war,

his

and

sobs,

and

in

finally

condescended to smile. It

was not

until

that the story

we had

was

settled ourselves at

told of

how Msenne had

TVangata deceived

Inganda in such an accomplished manner, by our two

young men who had thoroughly

relished

the

per-

formance.

As

the boats w^ere being secured to the trees on the

margin of the cove of Upper Iiebu, the sounds of a musketry volley came sliarply to our

We

ears.

inquired what this firing meant. " Oh,

the

we got

tired of waiting for

you

so w^e

began

war again an hour ago."

After consultation

witli

Mangombo,

I sent

Dualla

with two boats to Mpika's landing place, and having obtained permission from both the contending factions to stop the war,

of

tiie

crew

I

then commissioned Dualla and four

to proceed to the battle field, bearing the

blue flag with the golden star, the standard of Association, high above their heads, that

seen

l)y

the respective

ambushed

warriors.

it

might be Guided by

Mpika's advice, they boldly penetrated through hostile ranks,

palaver was

and shouted out

now being

to

tlie

the

them that the peace

held by Bula Matari, and in

WAE.

43

some stubborn cases they bad actually -^

/

seized

a'uns ^

tlie

and struck them up while they were levelling them fire

on

their

we saw

We

enemy.

the warriors of

to

were not long waiting before

Mangombo

returning to their

various huts in the town, presenting themselves to our

by us grossly garnished with

inspection as they passed skins

and

and

feathers,

so hideously painted that

impossible to conceive a

human

more thorough

effort for the

form's disfigurement.

The next day, having heard from each statement of the cause of the war,

and Magwala, asking what this strife.

killed

my

chief his

spoke to Mpika

I

benefits they expected

" None," tliey promptly replied.

people," said Mpika, "

them by a

ftiir

chase after

them

;

and let

I

Magwala,

from

" Iboko

caught eight of

Mangombo do

the

And

I/'

same, for he will never get any of mine." said

was

it

"

" will see that he does not."

To Mangombo,

I

asked what he expected to gain by

continuing the fight

?

" Both of your parties are strong and numerous, and if

you go on in

this

manner, mutually destroying one

another, Irebu will become the prey of the Bakuti, or

the Balui,

or

the

of your

friends

cluding those

Wabangi.

opponents.

who

fell

Your

Your

friends

are also

losses to-day,

in-

at Iboko, are thirty-seven killed,

You have lost nine stout men in slaves. You are not wise, Mangombo.

and many wounded. order to get four

This kind of trading will ruin you. called,

Let the council be

and obey the word, otherwise you must go on

fighting

it

out by yourselves."

i883,

June 22. inganda.

THE CONGO.

44

Accordingly,

1883,

Jnaanda.

two

at

p.m.,

the principal

elders of

^pp©!' Irebu Were gathered together in council in one corner of an open place.

I

me occupied another Mangomho sat alone with

near

and

my

At

corner.

long

his

three interpreters

another corner

staff

ending with

first,"

said one of

a brazen spade.

" The Malafu fee must be paid the

elders,

and

I

had almost forgotten the judge's

I

Msenne and Umari that

hinted to

my

fee,

must

fee

be large.

among

Fifty brass-rods were distributed

the elders.

One hundred and twenty were gravely handed as

my

share.

Mangombo his losses,

recited the story of the war, recounting

and drawing pathetic pictures of the

incurred by Upper Irebu. their

me

to

ideas

hostilities,

as

The

elders then suggested

what should be done

to

and that

it

losses

to stay the

was a great pity that the

dis-

putants should go on killing one another.

and decided that the war must

I followed last,

Said I

:

"

Magwala and Mpika have both agreed

they will leave the case in

must do the same.

Mangombo

alone.

his eyes open, and

my

The war Mpika

hands; you Mangombo in the obstinacy of

lies

lost five

Mangombo

men, but he kept

sought to redress his

by making war upon Mpika.

pay the Bangala

that

revenged himself on the Iboko by

taking eight captives. losses

stop.

for the blood

If he

wanted

they had shed,

why

to

did

he not go to Iboko, and keep his eyes open there, instead of hurting his friend?

The Nzarabi (God^

is

angry.

PEA CE'MA KING. and he

lias

nine more of

lost

Mpika and Magwala

enough.

friendship to

Mangombo.

and bury the war.

The

45

men.

lils

offer

hands

their

is

i883.

in

io°ld^

it

Give the pledge of peace,

Bula Matari has spoken

of elders applauded,

council

Say,

" !

and Mangom\)o

yielded to the general cry of peace, and gave the pledge

My

demanded.

were instantly sent away

interpreters

to central Irebu to bring tlie pledges of peace

from the

Capulets of that quarter. These pledges were two pieces of unbleached domestic, one gourd of palm-wine, one

keg of damp gunpowder, and one broken musket from

Then

each faction.

four elders from

Upper Irebu who

were neutrals, and four neutrals from central Irebu took charge of the peace pledges, and in the centre of the plain behind Irebu,

hole

was dug

in

which was the usual

and the

the ground,

battle-field,

articles

were

Salvoes of musketry from each rank of the

interred.

combatants were

fired

over the grave of the war, and

Irebu was saved from the horrors of internal

many

a

strife, for

long years, I hope.

The next day we spent

in mutual visits

through

Irebu.

This large town, or congeries of villages, built so close together, that to a stranger there

to be left

no

distinctive limits

between them, occupies the

bank of the Congo, and the

left

Lukanga, running along the bank five

miles.

miles,

and

having

The population

Irebu has also

its

would appear

a

depth

I estimated

suburbs, and

if

bank of the

for a

distance of

inland at

of

two

15,000 souls.

the villages inland

TEE CONGO.

46 1883

and

along

Lnkanga may be

the

reckoned, being

may

offshoots of Irebu, the figures of the population

reasonably be doubled.

On

the 23rd,

which we took the

tail

we steamed up

to

end, or

the

Lukanga River, it

was

the sluggish effluence of a lake.

It

be a river, though in reality

The

appeared more like a broad and winding canal.

was a reedy

shore, for a considerable distance,

lieved in places

fen, le-

by a clump of mimosa, or by a grander

height of scrub, and finally by an isleted grove.

lew miles up, a

humpy

village with bananas outside.

showed a

rise of reddish clay

and palms, and gardens of cassava

Fishermen were numerous

;

canoes being seen

From

returning from or going to the fish-catching.

300 yards

Lukanga opened

the

out to

mile in

a

breadth, which gradually widened further into a

We

lake.

little

were then shown a course varying from

we

one to two miles wide, which

looming up

picturesquely

might almost be

in

arm of

followed

wooded

The

called hills.

coming more numerous.

the shores

banks which

villages

Presently,

we

;

were

turned into a narrow

this

channel

by the village of Maboko, which was

the lake,

more tiarrowed by rows of

papyrus and other reeds.

hour

later

path

— Lake

Throe-quarters of an

— after winding in and

out a crooked watery

iMantumba burst into view.

five miles

— until

the shore disappeared.

still

stakes, sedge, water-lilies,

lotus,

along the northern shore

be-

when half-way

through

about

A

— the

We

steamed

southern being distant

when on the south, At sunset, we had reached the at

4

p.m.,

MANTUMDA LAKE. eastern sliore, and •

•,

camped on an

..,

.

•,

whither some natives visited

Watwa

many days

being

47

TiiT

and

us,

round by the

along

southern

flat

By noon

shore, to a portion of the western shore.

the 25th

the Mantumba

days' steam-

to near Ikulu at 5 p.m.,

eastern shore, and

the

Ten

we had steamed 144 English

miles in

of

tlie

circumnavigation of the lake.

Mantumba Lake,

Lake Leopold IL,

like

is

a shallow

depression in the lowland of this portion of the

The

basin.

Like the

feet.

a

greatest depth

which, at

many

of the

again the land

enough

Where age

to

ironstone

into low

rises

hills,

In other

not high

notice, but clothed

redwood, for which this country

the ironstone crust

still

shows

the view, deep cavernous

underneath.

substructure,

though newly made.

to attract particular

fine forests of

thirty-two

is

shows the ragged sharp edges

places,

of fracture as clearly as

parts

Over

of rock, proving

Congo

seems to have been caused by

latter, it

sudden subsidence

ascertained

its

is

with

noted.

ragged front-

recesses

seen

are

these the stone projects like a shelf

its

tenacious composition, as

it

ire-

quently supports trees of considerable girth and height.

On

the western shores, in some of

its

many

baylets, the

pebbly beach strewn with round ironstone, and quartz,

and reddish, porous, stone pebbles, shows traces of

much

hitcher

water,

Everywhere the shore

and is

effects

of

storm v waves.

lined b}^ these pebbles.

i883.

June 23.

bays and creeks, past Ibingi

little

and Ikoko, brought us

told us ot

;

.1

from whence they

inland,

obtained their ivory and camwood.

ing into beautiful

near Ugangi

i.^land

Some

^"''*''

THE CONGO.

48 1883.

I

ground

and put

into powder,

into a glass of water,

June 23.

jiantumba

^^^

a

of the

httle

cannot conceive

it

inkiness

to

minutely examined

ground soil,

the

visible

the shore

I

Scarcely

on the shore, though

every indentation in

is

The

it.

reddish

a

is

not cultivated the forest

of an uniform height.

all

As

very low and sedgy. feet, or, at

dense,

the lake rises about fifteen

Mantumba and

about twenty -two geographical miles,

is

is

the shores show traces to this height,

least,

Leopold IL

is

The southern shore

and, as the distance between Lakes

may

account

though

lake,

rocky substratum

this

may

much

very rich and favourable to tropical abundance.

When but

above

of

be

to

be altogether the cause.

any clay or sand was I

found the water

I

This rust and dark red ironstone

darker. for

np

after Stirring

it

be that at the height of the rainy season these

two lakes are connected.

At Ikenge

the natives manufactured a superior kind

Camwood powder

of pottery.

made by grinding in mortar, small sticks of

from the

on rough

it

Watwa

dwarfs,

also

extensively

red- wood chips, or rasping

slabs.

who

is

Ivory

is

purchased

are described as a copper-

coloured people.

On at

the 20

Lukolela.

visit

us



to

til

of June

we

halted at the camping-place

luka and Mungawa were induced to

make

blood

brotherhood, and

finally to

frame a verbal treaty, agreeing to cede to us sovereignty over

their country.

sold us

a fine piece

we proposed to build whereof we left two of our most

a station, in

of land, whereon

surety

They

also

faithful

men

A SHIPWRECK. their

in

49

and then continued on our voyage

luinds,

i883.

June 29.

down

the Congo.

We

L^kdeia.

were encamped on the grassy terrace mentioned

in our journey

up

on the evening of

river, a

few miles below Lukolela,

when a men and

this day,

peared laden with forty-four

They reported

cargo.

large canoe apa miscellaneous

wreck of a large canoe

the

laden with thirty-eight men, and a valuable cargo.

Over

a dozen of the

board

;

Two

the rest

crew of the

were

Usindi,

lost.

and the crew of the

mood and

ward bound

all

the property

The shipwrecked party

assistance belonged to fit

on an island wandering.

still

persons had been drowned, and

had been

canoe were on

lost

canoe

Ngombe.

and had abundance of

rendered

tliat

They found

condition to be helpful. to Stanley Pool,

hailed from

we had

We

us in a

were home-

just left Lukolela,

provisions, wliich

we shared

with them.

At the

early

dawn we were under weigh with

three of

shipwrecked crew on board to guide us to the

scene of the disaster.

At

8.30 a.m.

we hauled

alongside

They

with our three steamers, whaleboat, and canoe. pointed the locality and

the

cause

which was some thirty yards from snag,

around

slightly covered it,

shore.

It

accident,

was a

feet in depth.

to

The

locality

which we could cling

in attempting to secure a steamer near the place

our anchor and chain.

;

we

and lost

I recognised the chief of the

party as Miyongo of Usindi, Vol. II.-4

stiff

by water, that ran strongly

and was thirty

was devoid of anything

of the

whom we had

seen

at

THE CONGO.

50 1883 Lukoieia.

Bolobo during our palavers relating to the murder of

We

two of our garrison by Gatula.

know what

assistance he wished.

requested to

After consultation

with his fellows, he decided to return to Bolobo with his

We

wife and six companions.

supplied the others with

we had purchased from and they resolved to make their way to

food and native arms, which

the Bakuti,

We

Lukoieia by land. land,

transported them to the main-

and then proceeded on our journey

which we reached

at nine o'clock at night.

The next day we rendered Miyongo and by a present of

speechless with gratitude

when, according

rations,

become our property. afterwards,

we

Bolobo,

to

arrived at

his wife

forty days'

custom, they had

to native

Departing from Bolobo soon

Mswata

station after thirteen

hours' steaming.

my

During

absence

Janssen had received a

Abbe Guyot,

a

Roman

to

equator,

the

Lieutenant

visitor, in

the person of the

Catholic

missionary serving

under the orders of the Algerian Cardinal.

The Abbe

had come up the Congo highly recommended officers

of the Association, with the view of establishLeopoldville being

ing a mission. with

Protestant missions,

the

convenient to seek a virgin the

Kwa,

expressed

which to the

of

the

to the

I

in the

Abbe thought

the

Upon

field.

neighbourhood of

himself

pleased

with

already blessed

tlie

the

it

suggesting

confluence, he locality,

upon

requested Lieutenant Janssen to proceed up

Kwa, and

establish himself

confluence,

and

to

assist

on the the

left

bank

Abbe Guyot

KIMPOKO STATION. the founding

in

of

51

mission on

liis

right

the

l»ank

i88;}.

July

of the affluent opposite.

On

wind blowing strongly

the 3rd of July, with the

against

we

us,

Wampoko

above the

Mswata

left

river,

for

missed

it

on the right bank, we saw

flotilla.

We

to discover that a fierce struggle

before, leaving traces of

curious

tried a shot at

we landed

and, led by curiosity,

;

Just

Le'opoldville.

a lion crouched on the sand, watching with

gaze the descending

it

and

at the place

had occurred

sliortly

some heavy body having been

dragged over the beach. The evidences were as legible

highway, and pointed us

as a

warm

fifty

to a

dead buffalo

paces from the river's edge, wdiere

Good

been struck helpless while drinking.

was

too rare on the

Upper Congo

by the

Kimpoko was

had

fresh beef

and

to be rejected,

all

hump

forest king.

station,

reached the next day at 10 a.m.,

by Mons.

superintended

evidently

still

it

hands that day banqueted on the steaks and roast furnished

was about

to

be

known

stations.

This was

placed in

command, and yet

fourth

the

The

Amelot.

as one of our

place

unlucky

who had been

chief

the chiefs residence had

not been completed, and, by the very slow progress

which had been made, probably the columns would need renewing before

it

would be

fit

for living in.

After fifty-seven days' absence we again saw Le'opoldville,

the

:i.

Mswata.

with substantial proofs everywhere visible of

competency of Lieutenant Yalcke

large house, having nine

as

chief.

commodious rooms

lodging of Europeans, had been put up

;

A

for the

a small station

THE CONGO.

52 1883

had been established at Kinshassa

" ^

banana plants were

^

Leopold^''^^-

community and

"blooming"

Thus a proper man proved

more

service in

two months than

had performed within eleven months.

his predecessor

his brother chiefs

terms with the

staft"

of the station were

were also on excellent

of Europeans

filled

tlie

store-rooms

with provision

cases, cloth

;

bead boxes, and there were nearly four tons of

brass rods

On

and tbe

:

belongings were altogether in a

its

that he could perform

bales,

some 500 new

tbrivino; o in our g-arden o

condition.

Ngalyema and

;

— the native currency.

the 13th of July the steamers and boats were

again despatched to Bolobo with 150 loads of goods

and thirty-two men,

whom

in

I could place

and

I

charge of Captain Anderson, implicit

reliance.

and Manyanga required

troubles at Vivi tion,

in

had

to

Meantime

my

atten-

despatch an agent to that place

with authority to rectify the mischiefs which ever recurred

at

that unfortunate

utter impossibility

by

station,

owing

of enforcing obedience

to

to

the

orders

letter.

" Captain "

vour

At

had, after six months' patient endea-

to reach his post, finally arrived to take

least this

was

command.

to be hoped, but later letters informed

us that he declined the command, owing to a species of triangular disagreement and misunderstanding existing

which each of the three

at Vivi, in connection with

persons

language

involved

upon

showered me.

In

letters

this

in

most

predicament

forcible it

was

necessary to commission a deputy, with copies of the

BWA-BWA NJALI'S

INVITATION.

me

various orders that had emanated from

53 duriiic:

the

i883. T

last six

and

months;

consider

I

that

bother on this occasion drew from

which was an absolute model of

number of

propositional "

I flattered myself,

ifs

"

its it

immense

the

me

a final order,

kind, from the great

contained, providing,

against all mortal possibilities of

misunderstanding, misapj^rehension, and

failure.

Not

-^srr

VIEW FROM THE HEAD OF BAM0 ISLAND DOWN THE STANLEY POOL.

havino* a trust, I

so

that

sino'le soul

was obliged

else

Yan

Le'opoldville pro

Invited by

BKANCH AT

within reach that

to deprive Leopoldville of

Lieutenant Yalcke

while Dr.

SOTTTH

I

could

its chief,

was the chosen deputy,

den Heuvel was ap])ointed chief of tern.

Bwa-bwa

River, to establish a

Njali, of the

Gordon-Bennett

station there, I proposed

to

a

.

...

Leopold'^''*'

THE CONGO.

54 1883.

Leopold-

young continental

officer to

acquiesced, expressing- himself indeed

readily

He

undertake the duty.

ex-

as

tremely desirous to have his fidelity and capacity tested previous to promotion, and the public recognition of

and

his zeal

picked

He and

intelligence.

men were

transported across the river, and duly

introduced to the chief, as his brother.

band of fourteen

his

who

The young

consented to receive him officer

received his final

instructions with a strong injunction to be

prudent,

good tempered, and forbearing, and always charitable in his dealings

his

own

with the aborigines as

w^ell

as with

people.

Eight days passed away, and then from across the river

came a rumour of

manned and

A

trouble.

boat was hastily

sent to inquire for news, which, in a few

hours, returned with the

young

officer,

pale and excited,

with his face scratched and his clothes in disorder, and

two of

his

own

garrison with him.

The coxswain of

the boat reported that he had gone across the river,

and had found the military

officer

bound hand and

foot.

Two

of his

own men guarded him, and they

the coxswain a curious tale.

own

responsibility

set

He

had, however, on his

the officer at liberty, and had

brought him, along with his men,

answer

The

told

to Leopoldville

to

for themselves. officer related

how he had

detected a plot to

murder him and take the property, upon which he had attempted to shoot the supposed ringleader in the conspiracy,

but had only succeeded in wounding him,

A TERRIBLE DISASTER. whereupon

55

own men sprang upon

liis

liim,

disarmed

and bound him, and were about conveying him

to

isss.

u^opoidville

Leopoldville

them

when

the boat fortunately arrived to take

He

admitted he liad been set free irom

across.

bonds by the coxswain.

his

The two men who had been found guarding him,

in

their direct and circumstantial story, proved that their oflScer

He

had suddenly developed an homicidal mania.

had attempted

to shoot poor

Bwa-bwa

and

Njali,

had actually shot his chief sergeant in the head, which provoked his own garrison to disarm and bind him.

During the night following he had burst fled into the

conveyed

woods, where he had been discovered next

to

the

boat arrived, and his guard,

My On

river side, whither soon its

brought them

the

the

after

crew, taking charge of the prisoner to Leopoldville.

servant Dualla was sent over to

transport

to

bonds and

Being recaptured, and rebound, he was

morning.

and

his

party back again

Bwa-bwa Njali's, to

Le'opoldville.

the return of Dualla, corroborating the truth of

the charge against the

man was

officer,

the unfortunate gentle-

taken under escort to Yivi with an order of

dismissal from the service.

On

the 22nd of July, a courier canoe arrived from

Mswata

station

with

the

dreadful

intelligence

that

Lieutenant Janssen and the Abbe Guvot, with eleven of their people, while descending the

new Kwamouth

station 1o

Congo from

the

Mswata, during a gale of

wind, were drowned.

On

the

31st

of July an

exjiedition

was sent

to

— THE CONGO.

56 1883.

LeopoldviUe.

occupy Kwamoutli

Swedish

Pfigels, a

It consisted of

station. officer,

Lieutenant

and a small garrison

for that

place.

Two poko

days later a courier canoe arrived from Kim-

with

station,

letters

from Mons. Amelot, imploring

He had had

instant relief.

a misunderstanding with

the natives, and some shooting had happened, wherein

two or

of the natives had fallen.

tliree

Kimpoko, and found that

Naturally, I hurried to

my

presenti-

ment concerning unfortunate Kimpoko was

verified.

Gambiele and

Unable

all

the natives had

fled,

and

to induce the natives to return, I ordered the

half- 1 milt

station- to

down

garrison

be destroyed, and conveyed the

to Leopoldville.

The prospects were most disheartening ever-brewing troubles at Vivi

;

coloured

drowned

On

eternal and

two stations destroyed

within a few days of each other eleven

;

;

two Europeans and

men belonging

to

another station

But the end had not yet arrived.

!

the 21st of August, a courier canoe arrived from

Bolobo with a note saying that unfortunate Bolobo never to be built Bolobo with

all

tlie

—was

goods belonging to

burnt to the ground it,

loads recently stored there for the

Ban gala and Stanley Fortunately repairs,

and

I

tlie

was now

Upper Congo stations

Falls.

flotilla,

which had been beached

for

in perlect order for a long voyage,

was only waiting

near approach of whicli

The danger

as well as the 150

for

an overland caravan, of the

we had

notice, to

have

started.

to these houseless people at Bolobo,

how-

'

BOLOBO IN ARMS. ever, spurred us to immediate

^rr

movement, and on the

22nd of August we accordingly departed from Le'opoldville, witli ten tons

and passenger

list

of miscellaneous goods, and a crew

numbering

seven hours' steaming the 29th August.

we

men.

fifty

After

fifty-

arrived in view of Bolobo on

The En Avant being a few

miles

ahead of the Royal and A.I. A.

As

the

En

Avant steamed by

shore I observed

tlie

the usual crowds of spectators darkening

it.

Ibaka's favourite village, poured out

bronze-bodied

people great and small.

its

Mungolo,

Next Biangala, perched on the

slope of the hill

which separated the Lower from the

Upper Bolobo.

Next

appeared the villages

in order

of Ururu, Mongo, Manga, Yambula, and Lingenji, and, finally,

without a single incident,

we

arrived at the

landing-place of the ruined station, the blackened site of which I

we saw

looked desolate enough.

told the engineer to

keep steam at three atmo-

spheres until the other steamers had actually arrived,

and

I

was

the station,

listening to the reports of the burning of

when

a messenger came from Ibaka, the

senior chief, saying that Itimba and Biangala had fired

on the two steamers.

The news was

that I could scarcely credit tne fact

;

so astonishing

for in the Roi/al

were three natives of Bolobo, who had borne

news of the destruction by been brought back by shore,

us.

me

the

of the station, and had

fire

I

to

had

and the people had waved

also passed

their

by the

hands and greeted

us at several places, while the chief of the station had

reported that he was on terms of friendly intimacy with

issa.

""^Xho

— THE CONGO.

S8

No

every one at Bolobo.

1883.

August

whisper of

29.

Bolobo.

ill-feeling

had

.

To emphasise

been heard from any one. friendship,

this

apparent

Manga's chief had exchanged presents with

the station superintendent that morning.

was cracked np

chief of Itaraba,

Upiti, the

to be " a dear friend

in fact, one of the best fellows in the world."

Full of

wonder

at this

sudden outbreak, we made

steam again, and proceeded the

Five hundred

truth.

landing-place I

we were

had barely time

down

the river to discover

yards below the station

passing by Manga's village, and

to distinguish

my protege,

Miyongo,

of Usiudi, by the broad-beaded and glittering haft of his falchion,

when a stream of fire was

seen issuing from the

bushes near him, and the slugs came peltering briskly

some ringing smartly on the

across,

steel hull of the

Presently another shot rang out loudly a few

steamer.

yards below, the missile of which swept over the bow. It

dawn on my mind

appeared to

pre-concerted arrangement.

exempt

I did not wholly

some participation

in

that

For a moment,

my own

from

He might

have

tampered with these savages from some

and,

if

dear friends of

Absurd

his,

why

them

sinister

it,

for the

design

his dear friends,

not dear friends of ours

as the thought undoubtedly was,

time to discuss

I fear that

station chief

the outbreak.

of his own, because he had called

wa« a

all this

En Avant was

in a

?

we had no dangerous

proximity to these ambushed people, and the muskets roared at us from a long line of sharpshooters hidden

only about

fifty

aboard, and our

yards from us. rifles

We

had only

six

men

had never been used. Arms were

FIGHTING ON THE RIVER.

59

taken on board always as a precaution; but during the four years

had

we had run on

f, (

^

the

issa.

August 29.

.

ongo not a single native

However, we soon drew them out and

fired at us.

began

to

while

we charged down

return

fire

tlie

vigorously into the bushes, river

In twenty minutes

steamers.

,

.

to

the

we met

rescue of the

the A.I.A.^ and

soon after the Boyal, the crews of which related the

narrow escapes they had experienced.

had been wounded in the

One man only

by a shot from some

face

excited bungler amongst the crew.

The steamers were brought up

to the station,

and

the goods then discharged into a small hut that had

been hastily constructed and placed under guard.

The Royal was then dispatched bring up an artillery

some

fifty

by a

with a Krupp cannon, and

charges of ammunition, with which

little

Boiobo

officer

to Leopoldville to

fright to

make

I

hoped

the intractable people of

less disposed to include us in their future dis-

plays of spleen.

The reader

will

have perceived by

had become noted in our books

as an

had been established nearly a year

was

in

a more

Two members dered;

a

fire

village with

this that

unlucky

station. It

at this time, yet

backward condition than any of

its

garrison

Boiobo

it

other.

had been foully mur-

then utterly consumed the station and

£1500 worth

had what the natives

of property;

called " a war."

Boiobo v/ere arrayed against

us,

and now we

All the towns of

except Mungolo and

Lingenji, the villages of Ibaka.

After waiting forr days, during which no one seemed

Boiobo.

THE CONGO.

60 188^.

Bolobo.

disposed to come to terras, or to offer to effect a reconciliation,

the

En Avant and

whale-boat descended the

river to reconnoitre, and to endeavour to parley with

some of our friends

in the villages, but a

derous fusilade greeted us as

and Yambula's

and we replied

villages.

at

random

most mur-

we came near

Mariga's

This roused our

ire again,

into the bush, as

no person

could be seen.

On

the 3rd of September a few of our party occu-

pied an island running parallel with the hostile villages,

from which our sharpshooters replied briskly at every

whence the shots

locality

issued.

In the evening, Miyorgo appeared and related the effects

of the firing.

young rogue who had had

lost

A

woman,

first

the mother of the

fired at us

A man

her front teeth by a bullet.

love-knot of hair scraped clean away. of native beer had been smashed

full

forated,

had

two men were

besides one

En

killed

his

Seventeen pots

;

some houses per-

and three or four bananas cut down.

Itimba the firing from the effective,

from Manga's,

At

Avant had been more

and three wounded,

goat and one cliicken

killed.

The

Wy-

yanzi are too fond of trade not to include everything in

their tale of losses.

pots of beer,

by which

The smashing of a few more their courage

is

inspired,

would

produce a depression whence peaceful results might be expected.

The following day, Ibaka introduced a peace deputation

from Itimba, which brought with

brass rods, a goat, and

some

fowls.

it

a few dozens of

Surely a war was

NEGOTIATIONS FOR PEACE.

61

not worth mucli at Bolobo

when they estimated the

indemnity at such a

However, we accepted

trifle.

and

and old

Upiti

delighted,

and promised

to be

very good in future.

we proceeded again

In the afternoon

opposite Manga's, and kept

were

ambassadors

brother

his

it,

to the

up a desultory

island

firing at the

white cloudlets emitted from the black bush, and in the

me

evening Miyongo bore to

The

tale

one

arms, a

wounded

of losses included a chief

leg while drinking beer in the chiefs,

the bulletin of results.

man wounded

gun smashed by a

in

woods with

in

the

his brotlier

both thighs, one in the

bullet, a

canoe damaged, and

a few more bananas levelled.

The wounding of

a chief brought

Manga

to propose

terms of peace, but as this was a second offence severe. It

was

They

rejected with scorn,

to

pay

and they were

a pleasure to fight,

the big

it

told that, as

and a hardship

for the privilege of firing at people,

our hands at

all

it

was

same money paid by Itimba.

offered the

they considered

I

we must

try

again next day, and every day until

gun arrived from Stanley

be blown up to the sky.

them surrender the

Pool,

when they would

This awful threat made

case to Ibaka's hands, but with all

Ibaka's real

and earnest

negotiations

to

efforts it cost us

nine days'

induce them to pay the fine of 600

matako, value £15, as an indemnity.

On

the 13th the peace was duly proclaimed through-

out Bolobo, and the next day the Krupp, which had arrived during the last days of the peace negotiations,

had

to

be fired into the Congo, which, opposite Bolobo,

i883.

uoiobo.

TEE CONGO.

62 1883.

Boiobo.

is

All the villages were represented

4000 yards wide.

on the occasion by the chiefs in person, accompanied

by a few hundreds of people, who honour me without

many

w^eapons.

To them about the

was not much

there

Krupp. " If

it

were a gun, where was the

And

ramrod?

trigger, stock,

goodness, were the wheels for " Tut," they said

not be a gun

it

;

;

"

gun

likeness of a

what, in the name of "

?

Bula Matari

is

joking.

It can-

bears no resemblance to a gun.

It

wood with a deep

its

looks like a fine piece of

hole in

belly." It

was, therefore,

Krupp. ticated

decidedly necessary

to

They were turbulent through their unsophisThey knew no better. A brass rod wildaess.

causes a Avar

;

a drop too

much

of beer ends in a war.

If they have a bad dream, some unfortunate

and burnt for witchcraft, or hung to

it.

the

fire

A

chief dies from illness,

for

being an accessory

and from two

When

people are butchered over his grave. of Moye'

—the

forty-five

accused,

is

to fifty

the chief

next village above our station



died,

people were slaughtered, and only a short

time before Ibaka strangled a lovely young girl because her lover had sickened and died.

Two

slaves of Ibaka

quarrelled over their beer, and one shot the other; the

brother of the murdered

two bales of slaves

cloth,

man demanded

and 1500 brass rods

;

twelve slaves,

one of the male

was beheaded, and a female slave was strangled,

that their spirits might

dead slave on

its

accompany the

spirit of

dreary journey to the

the

unknown

THE KRUPF SURPRISES THE NATIVES.

63

That we had not been more involved

universe.

in

i883. Sept. 14.

trouble with such people as these of Bolobo has been solely

due

anxious care and large forbearance.

to our

Notwithstanding their professions of incredulity as to its power,

it

was observed that the

chiefs took great

Krupp,

care to keep at a respectful distance from the

and,

when

finally the artillerist, after sighting the piece

2000 yards,

to

fired

it,

and the cannon spasmodically developed a

recoiled, their bodies also instantaneously

convulsive movement, after which

A

gazing at one another.

they sat stupidly

second shot was fired to

3000 yards, and the appearance of the column of water heaved by

it,

satisfied

most

the

the

that

sceptical

implement was a gun of immense power.

But the following the

little

episode will well illustrate

character of the Wy-yanzi.

exhibition of the powers of the

occasion to explain to

We

No

had

solicitation of Ibaka,

Krupp,

them how very

to fight their friends.

any of them.

After the peaceful

white

settled at

and

seized the

foolish they

man had

were

yet injured

Bolobo only at the

the chiefs had tasted of

all

the white man's liberality.

I

I

now would pay

for the

beer to celebrate a long peace, and I according delivered to each

man one

as there

were

more than the

piece of cloth fifteen chiefs

fine exacted

and ten brass and

elders,

rods, which,

amounted

from Lower Bolobo

to for

shooting without provocation at our steamers.

They

left

the

goods

on

the

ground, and

aside to consider or hold a palaver, and after

all

went had

arrived at an agreement they came back to their seats,

uoiobo.

:

THE CONOO.

64 1883. Sept. 14. Boiobo.

aud Lu^"umbila, the senior slave of Ibaka, with an p face,

^

^

unabashed

" Bula Matari,

and we are

we have been

of one

all

me

dared to say to

mind

considering together,

you ought

that

to give each

of us two pieces of cloth and twenty brass rods to celebrate this peace, value £25."

I

Without

a

ordered

my

back, and,

enough.

my

word, but feeling unutterable things,

Dual la to take the presents

servant

waving

my

hand

Ibaka, this land

is

to them, I said

Take

yours.

" It is

:

it

and

I

;

people will depart from Boiobo for ever.

I

am

tired of you."

Up

sprang the chiefs instantly to their

Ibaka hastily

Stop, Bula Matari

be not angry with Wy-3^anzi.

If

us

;

this is

we

!

Dualla, stay

!

out,

Nay,

but a custom of the

you had given us 4000 brass rods we

should have asked for 10,000

50,000

while

movement, crying

ai'rested Dualla's

" No, no, no.

feet,

;

if

you had given us

should have asked for ten times the amount.

What, Bula Matari leave us moneys, and we will

g'o to

?

No, never

Give us the

!

celebrate the peace.

Come,

Bula Matari, drive away your anger," and Ibaka came and patted and rapped gently over as

though

my

disgust and silent fury

where in that region.

Why,

the greed of the

was stowed some-

know

Wy-yanzi

as the appetite of the hippopotamus.

ended, Bula Matari. to

risk fighting

watch-pocket,

" And," continued Ibaka smiling

humorously, " does not Bula Matari

yet?

my

the

is

Wy-yanzi

as insatiable

The

Wy-yanzi love money

any more.

Two

trouble

is

too well

troubles have cost

5

SETTLING THE INDEMNITY.

them money So

;

they will not care to provoke a third,

and

live in peace,

Being a

05

let

your heart

guileless, liberal,

I accepted Ibaka's

rest,"

Boiobo

and susceptible creature,

hand, and then

departed to diink

all

beer, with the strong purpose to live hereafter in peace

man and

with the white

are not a vindictive people,

On

the 16tli of

his people.

why

Lukolela.

crew,

?

September we departed from Boiobo, this

journey to

Miyongo, of Usindi, and his shipwrecked

who had been

extremely serviceable to us in the

negotiations

with the aborigines of

accompanied

us.

Two

The Wy-yanzi

should I have been

and ascended along the right bank on

hours later

guide told us that

we it

Lower Boiobo,

passed the Mikene' river.

A

continued to be navigable for a

about a day's journey up by canoe to the junction of

two

rivers, each of

which was impassable on account

of rapids. Skirting the shore above the Mikene, that the firm land

we

discovered

was generally a mile inland from

the tangle of calamus and bush, weeds and papyrus,

which rose in impenetrable masses river margin.

merable,

When we

The

islets,

in

line

along the

principally low, were innu-

and produced but reedy plants and scrub.

had proceeded about a third of the distance

from Lukolela the land improved in appearance, showing a

tall

forest

and a limited grassy terrace or two,

in appearance very like the left bank.

About 60 English miles above

the

point opposite

Boiobo we passed the Ikubn, or Likuba stream; and Vol. II,—

isss.

THE CONGO.

66 1883.

Boiobo.'

about 20 miles higher

we saw

by

a fine river, called

t^® guide the River of Bunga, about which he was

very enthusiastic, describing

its

banks as being very

populous, and the tribes as possessing an abundance of

The people

ivory and food.

of Busaka, Ikuba,

Bunga, villages near the Congo, exploit

and

this river in

their search for ivory.

On

the 22nd of September

we

arrived at Lukolela,

where Mr. Glave, a young Englishman, was

new

as chief of the

station,

installed

with a garrison of twenty-

men.

five

Lukolela station was located about 2i miles above the uppermost village of the native community, in the forest,

As

a hundred yards from the edge of the Congo.

the

tall

trees,

ranging from 60

to

150

feet high,

with clean, branchless stems for three-quarters of their gross height, were only from 10 to 30 feet apart,

Mr. Glave had a difScult work before him.

We,

fore, placed the entire force at his disposal for a

of days, to cut clear

down

the thin

some 50 square yards,

him

A is

as a

little

scarcely

there-

couple

undergrowth and

to

room

to

so as to obtain

construct a couple of native huts which for

young

we purchased

temporary residence and magazine.

exploration I

more

made through

difficult to

which

penetrate than the Thier-

me

garten of Berlin, enabled

this forest,

to estimate the

number

of useful trees in the forest of Lukolela at 460,000,

which, allowing only 40 cubic feet to the tree, would furnish

over

18,000,000 cubic

plane-trees are

numerous

;

feet

of timber.

The

they would furnish easily

A MAGNIFICENT FOREST. workable planks for doors, flooring,

the

flat-boats,

rafters,

stern-posts, decking,

guaiacum

all

be

frames, &c.

formed

keels,

timber

is

banks,

it is

not

while of

stem and ai\d

A steam saw-mill might enable

the timber needed for trading houses

Though

generations out of this one forest.

for

;

tables,

and the mahogany, red-wood,

for furniture.

us to furnish

wooden steamers,

window

splendid teak might

67

scant in

other

parts

of the

the

Congo

the only part from the sea to Lukolela that

a forest was found wherein there were so few useless trees.

This magnificent crop of largest forest trees led us

to

suppose that this ground was extremely rich, but while planting the posts of Mr. Glave's huts, even the picks could

make but

little

impression on the conglomerate of

we found it to be. The grown in hollow cavities in the iron

alluvium, and most of buttresses, the base

with their roots. to

trees

had seemingly

ironstone filled with

them were of vast

expanding to an enormous

to be,

it is

circle

The major number tapered upward

an incredible height, with stems as smooth

planed pine spar.

and

girths

Whatever the

station

may

as a

turn out

evident that months must elapse befo-re

chief will be able to boast of a garden. officer started

on

his

its

Our young-

work, not a whit daunted by the

magnitude of the task before him.

We

departed from Lukolela on the 25th of September.

Miyongo and by

this time,

his family

were on familiar terms with us

and when the rain threatened

our voyage with

its

to iiiterrupt

usual black storm-clouds, one of

isss.

il'koieia

;

THE CONGO.

68 1883. Lukoieia.

his

men

to compel

viz.,

visit

Upon which Miyongo observed

that

his powerful cliarms to

men seemingly rain-charm

a

and

go and

them by

other countries.

white

to brave the elements,

up and dared

stood

possessed

to

keep

things save one,

all

the

away while

rain

travelling.

The next day we landed him and

his family at

Usindi, but in the faces of the hundreds

who

no joy or

to satisfy their curiosity I perceived

forward

the service

gratitude for

position as the one

Had

we had rendered.

European Prince been saved from such a

Miyongo had been

hurried

a

distressful

extricated from,

no doubt we should have been dined and toasted but then this was Usindi, in Congoese Africa.

During our stay here we went through the ceremony of blood-brotherhood

with Miyongo, which provoked

luka was

the jealousy of luka.

surly because I had not

inclined to be

also

delivered

Miyongo

into his

hands, that he, as the senior chief of Usindi, might

have had the honour of presenting him This

Miyongo's villagers. artifice

occasioned

from me, which, by applying

Miyongo

to

a

turn to

rhetorical

the

case

of

luka himself, the old chief became con-

vinced that he

had no reasonable cause of

" Is Miyongo a slave of luka slaves belong to luka?

and a chief?

Miyongo?

in

If

How

can

Is

?

Do

his

wives or his

not Miyongo a free

man

luka claim authority over

luka was saved from the Balui

or from the river, could

offence.

Miyongo be

pirates,

displeased that

luka was not delivered into his hands?

No;

neither

THE SUPERSTITIONS OF lUKA. must

be displeased that Miyoiigo, being a free

Iiika

man, could travel freelv luka was a dirty old without being aware of

came

to

begged cover

69

me for

in

my

own country." man, who was wickedly mean

in his

Two

it.

liours after sunset

he

cabin on the steamer, and gravely

a looking-glass with wfiich he might dis-

all hostile

designs against him.

He

then asked for

a charm by which he could stop the rain from falling

on the gardens and and was anxious positively

fields

of the people he disliked

for a medicine

secure

the

;

with which he could

fidelity of

queen

his

luka

!

dreaded Miyongo evidently after the exhibition of his jealousy

charms

to to

him, and,

finding

that

give him to prevent the evil

earnestly implored

munity away

On

after

me

to colonise

had no

I

effects of

to take himself

and

it,

his

some other part on the

he

com-

river.

departing the next day from Usindi, Miyongo

gave me a guide, who was reputed higher up river than any

munity of Usindi.

man

He had

in

to

have advanced

the trading com-

belonged originally to

Upoto, and had since often traded with Langa-Langa

and

I boko.

"We had been delayed too long at Bolobo Irebu for more than a few hours. '

to halt at

About ten miles

above Irebu we saw a few canoes belonging piratical Balui,

who

inhabit

a district on

the

the right

gained by means of numerous

bank, access to wiiich

is

narrow branches of a

delta of a river, bearing

name than

that of the tribe.

Congo

the Balni's River

the

to

no other

Inland, a few miles from is

said to be of considerable

i883.

n



r

THE CONGO.

70

and importance, perhaps between 300 and 400

1883.

size

irebu.'

yards wide.

The Balui

accounts, and their

all

won

for

are a very daring people from

numerous

them great notoriety

piratical exploits

in that section

have

of the

Congo lying between Ngombe and Ikengo.

On ofif

the 29th of September the steam

flotilla

arrived

Equator Station, from which we had been absent

one hundred days.

A NATIVE OF

No

better illustration could be desired to exhibit the

effect of

industry inspired by good-will and zeal than

Equator Station, as

it

was seen by us

paratively short absence.

worthless scrub hotel

IBOKO.

;

we

— commodious,

We

had

returned to

domestic

adornments and

an Equatorial

fire-proof.

bullet-

In

the

one might have

skilful

The two young army

com-

a jungle of

rain-proof,

fittings,

imagined a lady had lent her arrangement.

left it

find

comfortable,

proof, burglar-proof, and almost

after this

taste

in

the-

lieutenants, after

building the solid clay-house, had turned their attention

EQUATOR STATION. making window-frames,

to

having no

stools, but,

71

doors, tables,

chairs,

and crimson

paint, blue

and

few yards of gay print and white sheeting, had given a look of finish to the door, windows, and furniture

;

and, with native matting, the hotel presented a very

complete and neat appearance without and within.

An an

observatory, or petite casino, stood perched above ant-bill,

devoted to meditation, or to fond contem-

plation of their

handiwork and industrious

was here they drew up

their

code

efforts.

It

of laws for the

moral government of Equator Station, and the amelioration of the wild Bakuti, and here also they discussed

on Sundays and rainy days plans

provement of

for the sanitary im-

their little town, and,

like a

Board of

Public Works^ sketched out what further duties lay before them.

Imitating their j^oung chiefs, the coloured also

had

developed singularly good built

for

himself an

faculties.

impregnable

men had

Each of them clay

hut,

in

the centre of a garden, wherein the Indian corn was

already over six feet high thriving

;

the sugar-cane was

plats of sweet potatoes carpeted

;

tall

and

with their

leaves; while pumpkins, brinjalls, cucumbers, &c., &c.,

exhibited prodigious vitality.

Lieutenants Yangele and Coquilhat also possessed a

garden of European vegetables, which supplied onions, raddish,

beans,

carrots,

peas,

parsley,

lettuce,

cress,

beets, sweet potatoes, cabbage, &c., &c., for their soups

and salads servants'

daily.

hall,

There were

goat

park,

and

also

a large kitchen,

fowl-houses.

i883. Sept. 29.

baize, a

Their

Equator Station.

THE CONGO.

72 1883.

goats ^ave them fresh milk, aud their hens produced *:

Sept. 29.

Equator

.

^ SUpplj ot eggS.

Tims

for the first time I

Congo

favourite ideal of a

saw the

realisation of

Here was a

station.

my

well-

governed community of soldier-labourers, impregnable

and unassailable by

its discipline,

pendence of one upon another zealous, chill

and prudent, but

;

and the mutual

the chiefs cool-headed,

not too militarily

They

the advances of the aborigines.

sufiicient ality,

de-

stiff

to

possessed

honhommie to be appreciated for their cordi-

yet just distant enough to repress vulgar fami-

and prevent infraction of the

liarity

that must ever

social distinctions

between educated intelligence,

exist

governed by Christian morality, and unsophisticated barbarism, too light-minded even to become the slaves to

savage passion, or the partisans

among

in

iactious strife

the natives.

Ikenge, the

chief, a

young bull-necked savage, had

caused trouble through a determined misapprehension of the purpose of this station in his neighbourhood.

After

my

departure he had developed an over-weening

ambition, a desire to be hurriedly rich, by slaughtering'

every

man

to

possessions.

meant an

whom he bore ill-will and seizing his He had conceived that our friendship

alliance offensive

have carried

us,

by

and defensive, which might

his vaulting

schemes, to unlimited aggression.

spirit

and daring

He had

provoked

two wars, out of which he had emerged weakened in strength, and well hated

p-rowing insolence.

by

bis

neighbours for his

He had grown

rather dishonest

— MT IDEAL

STATION.

73

he bad repudiated certain purchases of trees

also, for

and bananas that were in the

Httle territory ceded to

us by him.

However, through Heliwa visited

his chief slave,

Leopoldville with us, and

who had

had been brought

back enriched by his voyage, and with

memory

his

weighted with things he had seen, and on which he could days.

was

moralise, every question

settled in

Thus over the populations of

a few

lyambo,

Buriki.

Wangata, Molira, Mukuli, Ikengo and Inganda and the garrison of Equator Station, an Arcadian

concord held

On

my "

its

harmony and

sway.

the 11th of October, I indited the following in

diary

:

Equator Station

is

situated with regard to

that sole exception,

happy one, not

certainly a

view

many

as

might be; but with

it

other requisites necessary for

well-being are in perfection. food^ obtained very cheaply,

We

have abundance of

and the

complain of

devoted neighbours.

We

now

prices are

established to every one's content, that there left to

so

is

so

nothing

have apparently friendly and

Brinjalls, bananas, plantains, sweet

cassava, potatoes, yams, Indian-corn, eggs, poultry, goats,

sheep, the native productions assisted by vegetables of

Europe, flourishing in the gardens, with

tea,

coffee,

sugar, butter, lard, rice, and wheat-flour from Europe, afford

a sufficient variety for a sumptuous menu.

I

have enjoyed puddings every day here, and among other

accomplishments of Lieutenants Yangele and

Coquilhat,

not

the

least

useful

is

that of

knowing

isss.

E^'^ator Station.

THE CONGO.

74 1883. October 11.

Equator

how

to

cook, r^

i

and

how

should

food



be

prepared. •

i

i

^^^ havc sumcient acreage near the station to be able, if necessary, to feed

climate

is

healthy

also,

though they have

weathers here, and the ground that

The

everybody abundantly.

is

moist

sucli

so astonishingly rich

one would have thought that fever would be been

prevalent,

yet our officers iiave

months

Wangata without experiencing one

at

indisposition."

already

four

hour's



FOUNDING STATIONS.

CHAPTER

75

XXYITl.

TO THE ARUW [MI OR BIYERRE.



voyage— The Lulungu river Bolombo— Bangala the terrible— Stirring memories— Boleko the chief—" Stop thief!" Mata Bwyki— A modern Hercules—" Is this Tandelay ? "—Uncomfortable moments— The appeal of Yumbila— " Bula Matari and Mata Bwyki are one to-day " Luxuriant tropical scenes Immense forest wealth Unsheltered in a storm— Deserted districts— Nganza Old Eubunga Langa-Langa women The currency changing Ndobo

Equipping

.or a long

!















—Oyster-shells a sign of former population — Bumba Myombi — The dreaded Ibanza— A trick with a

and the chief skin— Yam-

binga— Itimbiri river— Yalulima armourers— Hostile canoes on the look out— The Aruwimi— Mokulu— An

effective salu-

tiger's

tation

—" Bravo, Yumbila

Our work

—War

" !

of founding stations,

many

of which, if the , .

.

future were favourable to our designs, cities,

natives

.

would grow into

had carried us well towards the heart of Africa,

for

Equator Station was 757 English miles from the

sea,

and 412 miles above

Le'opoldville.

earnest wishes from Brussels,

up the Congo some GOO miles

ment

at Stanley Falls,

I

In response to

was now about

to

steam

further, to found a settle-

and endeavour

to

make

verbal

treaties

with the more populous settlements on either

bank as

I

voyaged upward, leaving

to a future occasion

the permanent establishment of stations.

The Committee

iggs.

October 12. £^^3^^,^

THE CONGO.

76 1883. October 12.

Equator

had also nominated a person fur the command Falls

young

thus our poor

*,

working

hat, after bravely

at

Stanley

friend Lieutenant Coquil-

at

Equator station awaiting

opportunity to be located at Bangala station,

his

saw himself, wait until

We

I

now

his great disappointment, obliged to

to

could return from the Falls.

had prepared

long voyage 1600

for this

lbs.

of

corn and cassava flour, and had purchased 500 dried fish

Our

from the Bakuti.

live stock consisted of three

and thirty

goats, three sheep,

fowls,

which were of

course for the five Europeans on board, as well as a large

yams, sweet potatoes,

store of plantains, ripe bananas,

and a dozen cases of Crosse and Blackwell's best tinned

A

provisions.

among

case

full

four whites

red Portuguese

Cognac was distributed

of

besides a five-gallon demijohn of

;

wine.

In

fact,

limited

as

was the

carrying capacity of the steamers, the five Europeans

and sixty-eight coloured men on board were as well victualled

and

equipped

British division of soldiers

Equator

at

might be

at

as

station

a

Chatham, Wool-

wich, or Portsmouth.

On

the 16th of October the

channel leading

We

overcast,

cleared

It

was

rolled,

when we departed

but finally the atmosphere

again without rain. 9'.

fine

but at two o'clock the sky became

and thunder

Lat. 0°

night's

;

up the

Uranga and the Lulungu River.

steamed ten hours.

from the Equator

N.

to

flotilla started

As we

At noon we were

in

ascended nearly due north, our

camp was probably

in

N. Lat. 0°

18'.

Following the Uranga channel, we came

to the

main

THE LULUNGU RIVER. channel, and crossed

hours after

we came

small river about

Uranga

This populous community

ence of

Lulungu

the

river

latter

of the conflu-

left

and the Congo, com-

affluent

natives

We

river.

miles to

obtain

aborigines

ascended

an idea of to

it

its

for

it

because

beiug a

as

it

Congo

the

disappointed me,

had usually spoken of

" large "

should judge

rather

bank,

left

pleasantly located on an

is

manding an extensive view np and down and up the Lulungu. The

its

at one o'clock on the 17th.

of land to the

triangle tlie

few

to the Ikelemba, a comparatively

CHngiiig closely to the

arrived opposite

elevated

A

bank.

left

150 yards wide, the colour of

waters being inky.

we

over to the

77

about

three

average breadtli.

be about 550 yards wide

;

I

but the

informed us that one could ascend

it

a

month's journey in canoes, and that the populousness of

its

banks

Congo.

is

much

It is larger

superior

any part of the

to

even than the Mohindu they say.

Higher up than the point we reached, the Lulungu

may

be

wider than the Mohindu

being of greater volume.

and personally seen,

it

From

appears to

but I

;

I

all

me

doubt

it

have gathered

that there

must

be a connection between the Lulungu, Ikelemba, and

Mohindu, but of what character to say.

They

are

it

would be

difficult

equally black, and their courses

all

are parallel and equi-distant from each other.

country

is

very

flat

though densely wooded, and

quite possible that there

necting the rivers.

1

may

would

The it

is

be channels inland conalso include

Mantumba,

isss.

uranL

THE CONGO.

78 1883.

and the Lukanga.

October 17. Uranga.

^

Indeed,

if I

i

understood rightly, the •

i

i

natives 01 Ireou spoke as though

Lukanga

travel from the It is rash,

however, to place too statements, though

native

these

surprise

to the

me

to learn

-i

to

Mohindu or Buruki.

much

reliance

would not

it

upon at

all

some day that a few days' journey

Mohindu

inland on either the

or

Lulungu there was a

labyrinthine system of liquid channels through

jungly

i

were possible

it

alow

connecting the three rivers Ikelemba,

forest,

Lulungu,

and

Ikelemba,

we

A

Mohindu. find

short journey

up the

stream nearly impassable to

the

row-boats by the wide overhanging branches stretching Canoes, however, travel far inland,

from either bank. crews are

if their

known

who seem

to the aborigines,

We

to be too fre'e with their arrows.

disposition of the aborigines

experienced

on the Mohindu

to

tl^.is

make

it

credible that on the Ikelemba they are equally averse to strangers.

The Congo

to the natives

dwelling on the banks of the

The

natives of

Uranga came out

affluents.

breathlessly

eagerly in their canoes with friendly hails cept returning their

running to the

fire

compared

tribes are civilised

greetings,

and

;

and

but ex-

maintaining

a

of compliments and amenities, according

custom of

as our. journey

warm

friends,

we

could do no more,

would be protracted

stayed at every populated district

we

indefinitely if

we

saw.

Ascending the Lulungu a few miles, we turned

up a narrow channel connected with the Congo. The latter river being bank-full, the shore and islands were

flooded,

though here and there the mainland

'

THE TERRIBLE BANGALA.

79

showed places where the water had yet

to

rise

overflowing, which no doubt

it

would

feet before

the watermarks on

the

trees

wind and

furious squall of

two if

A

are to be trusted.

rain compelled us to seek

an early camp.

On

the 19th

we

travelled

mainland, with palmy a few miles

down

day along a forested

all

on our

islets

below Bolombo,

river told us that Iboko

left, until,

camping

trading canoes bound

was anxious

to see us,

the Bangala having already heard of our coming.

The next day we stopped 1°

23'



made

station.

I

with the

chiefs,

and the

gifts

Bolombo

steaming

hours'

forty- three

at

in

N.

lat.

above Equator

a verbal treaty and blood-brotherhood

but there was a famine in Bolombo,

were poor and

The

scant.

how-

people,

and as amicably inclined

ever, were very amiable,

as

any we had met.

On

the 2Lst of October, four hours above Bolombo, I

found myself at rible fighters

last in

who

know

it

then.

—the

pressed so hard upon us in 1877.

country of the Bangala not

view of the Bangala

I

though

called Iboko,

is

ter-

The

I did

have been told that they remem-

ber the fight well, but rumour has varied greatly as to their intentions.

vowed

Some have

told us that they

that if ever the Ibanza returns, they will dispute

every inch of the waterway with him. Irebu told

me

that the lesson

Bangala had received, that at

have

them."

However

cannot be denied that

the

was

I need

of

so severe that the

only

negotiations

I felt

Mangombo ''

shake a stick

might end,

some anxiety

it

as the flotilla

issa.

uranga.

THE CONGO.

80 1883.

steamed from amongst the islands in view of Iboko,

October 21. Iboko.

,

t

.



i



ii

,

whose multitudes pouring out over the river I

At

had no wish to see again.

war

to

the same time

we

could not, while professing claims to manhood, for ever stop in dread of the danger.

They were slow

make

to

those

Not a drum nor horn was sounded

terrible Bangala.

Under the pendent green

alarm of war.

to raise the

appearance,

their

banana fronds on the banks the aborigines seemed

to

be gathered in idle crowds, as though they had no con-

cern with us, even as though a

was an everyday occurrence

We

were approaching the

the shore

— which

whence the by us

I

the tribe of Iboko.

point up

projecting

first

remembered very well battle in

as a place

1877 was met

three canoes dashed out with something

of elan in their movement.

from the

to

real fury of the

—when

of smoke-boats

flotilla

I detached the

and went out

flotilla

to

En

Avant

meet them, Miyongo's

guide taking position on the cabin deck. "

Who

are you

" Bula Matari

many "

"

was shouted.

come

to see

Mata Bwyki

" (lord

of

guns).

Ah— h — h

gone

;

?

Mata Bwyki

!

is

not at

I

am

home

;

he

is

a-fishing."

" Is Boleko at home, then

brother

Miyongo

"Yes; he This was passed on.

is all.

?

the slave of his

of Irebu."

in his villnge."

They had no more

They returned

incredibly short time

all

to the

to say,

shore,

and we

and

in

an

Iboko seemed to know that

6

AN IMMENSE

SETTLEMENT.

the curious smoke-boats contained friends, /•

1

1

1

and small canoes darted out irom the shore company,

until

number

the

How many scores

oppressive.

of"

81

and great to bear us

them was absolutely

of canoes were out upon

the water, ahead, on either side, and astern,

not begin to estimate.

purpose for a canoe

Tribal' •^^:S>

we

could

Almost anything answered the

— from

the mere dough troughs of

Setdemenb

of

the,

(Ss-^

KA\N1G;A\L ,A\ Scale cf£rw. StcUuie Miles

PLAN OF THE BANGALA SETTLEMENTS.

bakers to the crocodile-snouted war-canoe impelled by forty stout muscular fellows,

who

sent her

skimming

gaily past the steamer.

Some idea when I state

of this

immense settlement may be gained

we were abreast of its lower o'clock we were still two hours

that at noon

extremity, and at five

YoL. II.—

i883.

October 21. Iboko.

— THE CONGO.

82 1883. October 21. iboKo.

from

iij^per

its

though we had been

steadily

tit

'

^

^

In 18 m, whiJe gently paddhng with the

steaming. current,

end,

had occupied us

it

five

The

and a half hours.

guide indicated to us Boleko's village, and also Mata

Bwyki's islet

;

but we chose a dismal and dank

camp on an

opposite the former, the channel between being

about 500 yards across. to see

Yumbila, the guide, 'departed

Boleko quite unconcernedly, leaving us to be

gazed at until sunset by a thousand of the Bangala. I could not help

wondering in

my mind

what they

who had passed through their ranks in 1877, amid so much flame and smoke. In form they were a fine people that we regarded thought of the " Ibanza "

broad of shoulder, large-muscled, grandly

full in

chest, slender-waisted, of rather tall height, to life

in

on the

by the easy manner of

river,

the generally

the

whom

their carriage

cranky canoes, must have been an

every-day existence.

While there were some of them

of very black complexion, the majority of them were light bronze,

and there were several light as Arabs in

complexion.

Yumbila returned

who was build.

a

all

with the chief Boleko,

young man of about twenty-five, of powerful

Though he was

to introduce

do

at sunset

that

me was

to

in his

call

and

offered

Mata Bvvyki, who w^ould no doubt

observed that the young

what one may

cordial in manner,

power

to satisfy

man was

my

furtive-eyed

thievish in look.

wishes, I

—almost

His hair was

dressed in the usual Kiyanzi style, the marks on the face being slight incisions over the

upper part of each

BOLERO THE

CHIEF.

while the centre of the forehead was distin-

cheek,

guished by three fleshy lumps.

wards

83

to be the special tribal

This I learned after-

marks of the Bangala.

After a night spent in indescribable discomfort on the

islet,

Boleko came to us early in the morning to

introduce us to his as

own

an escort of honour

What

struclv

me on

village, forty canoes serving

to the flotilla.

entering the creek, on the banks

was

of which Boleko' s village was situate,

was the same creek whence issued the canoes that attacked

me

in 1877,

that this

first

and which

hostile

I took to

ONE OF THE BAKGALA.

be an affluent of the Congo, whereas

it

is

a narrow

channel, separated by a large and fertile island from the

main right branch.

affords a capital

It

harbour for

canoes and boats in bad weather on account of the reeds,

which arrest the movement of the canoes, pro-

tecting

At lively

them from being

floated

down by

the current.

Boleko's landing-place trading began in a most

manner, as provisions were unusually cheap.

Six eggs were sold

for

cowries

four

cassava bread for a brass rod

;

;

ten

rolls

of

a large fowl fetched

isss.

^1,^,1^^

THE CONGO.

84 1883. October 21. iboko.

only one brass rod

=

I'ods

6s.

;

a goat cost only ten or twelve

;

one mat,

was worth only one

feet square, of palm-leaves,

five

one made of

rod, while a large

rattan fetched only three

split

sweet potatoes, yams, and

;

bananas were so cheap that a day's ration purchased

enough

to last five days.

Word came from Mata Bwyki in the course of the He was inclined to be jealous that a boy like day. Boleko should dare

to take his guest to himself;

Ndinga, chief of Bolombo, soothed his an invitation was at

irritation,

given to the

last

flotilla

but

and

to lie

alongside of Mata Bwyki's shore on the morrow.

Warning

was shouted

at sunset

steamers to keep

watch;

strict

crews of the

to the

but the night

Vv'as

nevertheless disturbed with a series of cries, such as

"Stop thief!" one has stolen

my

" Oh,

my

knife

gone!"

cloth has

!

" &c., &c.

;

"Some

and there were

few messes by morning which had not to bewail the loss

of some valuable property, so expert and adroit

were the

thieves,

peojDle to this

On miles,

Close

so

very unaccustomed were our

kind of wholesale spoliation.

23rd

the

and

we dropped down

and lay up

at

river about

two

Mata Bwyki's landing-place.

by the waterside, on

land,

were numerous

pits of

stagnant water, rank with the poison exhaled from the black

An

pits,

equal

where the

number of

bitter cassava lay

cesspools could not have tainted

the air with more abominable odours.

were several circular to

decomposing.

fences,

In the river

where the cassava was

left

soak and decompose, but which were sweetened by

A MODERN HERCULES. Like

the constantly-flowing water.

85

other riverine

all

Bangala keep

tribes, the

their canoes constantly sub-

merged, to ensure the longer preservation of them.

Under

the keels of

we

our steamers

could see faint

outlines of several.

The

senior chief,

Mata Bwyki (lord of many guns),

was an old grey -haired man, of Herculean

stature

and

breadth of shoulder, with a large square face and an altogether massive head, out of which his solitary eye

seemed

to

glare

judge him to be 6

with penetrative power. feet 2 inches in height.

strong sonorous voice, which, his tribe,

was heard

He was now years old.

when

clearly several

I

should

He

had a

speak to

lifted to

hundred yards

off.

probably between seventy-five and eighty

His skin hung about

many

his bones in

wrinkles, but with his nine foot-long

staff,

that

was but

a shade less heavy than a dingy's mast, he walked with

an upright carriage, but when leaning on that mighty staff

he straightened his stalwart body and iDitched

that

stentorian voice of his over

heads of the

the

hundreds of Bangala, one might see that the grand old

man had

still

a fund of vigour in him.

He was

not

the tallest man, nor the best looking, nor the sweetestdispositioned

man

I liad

met

in all

completeness and perfection of the

Africa

human

;

but

if

figure,

the

com-

bining size with strength, and proportion of body, limbs,

and head, with an expression of power considered, he

must have been

in the foce, be

at one time the grandest

type of physical manhood to be found in equatorial Africa.

As he

i88:j.

October 2a

.

stood before us on this day,

we

thouglit

iboko.

THE CONGO.

86 of

1883. '

iboko.

him

—a

Samson

were seven

really grand-looking old

by

tall sons,

Mata Bwyki's head

rose

At

man.

different mothers,

men and

they were stalwart of

an aged Hercules, an old

as an ancient Milo,

his side

and although

boys, the whitened

crown

by a couple of inches above

the highest head.

Kokoro,

ning to show grey

hairs,

his eldest son,

was begin-

and he had three

sons, tall

youths, over twenty years old, besides a few chubbyfaced

young rogues.

Considering the depth and length of the curved line of hamanity that stood on the shore expecting us, I

should estimate the

number of people present

at about

1700, old and young.

A place

for

welcoming with due ceremony was

pared in a street in the village, just

Mats of

the steamers. large

around a row of curved and box

semicircle

023posite

yards from

rattan were spread in a

sj^lit

stools, for the principal chiefs. line,

fifty

pre-

this,

was

In the centre of the

a space for myself and

left

people.

We

were invited on shore

The concourse was

We

stifling.

and

silent

so dense that the atmosjDhere

first to

undergo the process of steady

examination from nearly two thousand pairs

own manner who we

mission up the great liver at

was

Then, after Yumbila, the guide, had detailed

of eyes. in his

had

to the assembly place.

many

places,

;

were, and what was our

how we had

built

towns

and made blood brotherhood with the

chiefs of great districts, such as Irebu, Ukuti, Usindi,

Ngombe', Lukolela, Bolobo, Mswata, and Kintamo, he

THIS TANDELAYf"

"/;S

them the pleasure upon ^ ^

urored ^

it

87

would be

.

make a

like compact, sealed with blood,

chiefs of po23uloiis Iboko. likely to accrue ticular,

two

if

to

He

me

to

Iboko, and

the

benefits

Mata Bwyki

in

par-

made between

Mata Bwyki and Tandelay,

or, as

he

was known, Bula Matari.

Then a hoarse murmur was heard through

crowd,

tlic

and Mata Bwyki's deep voice was heard asking

:

"

" Is this Tandelay

?

"Yes." For a moment

I regretted that I

had placed myself,

with such unbounded self-confidence, so completely in their power, as I heard

the effect of tude.

it

I was,

my name

mentioned, and noted

upon the overwhelmingly large multi-

however, quickly relieved when

I

remem-

bered that Africans cannot act in unison with one another unless they are led by some leader.

I

was

only waiting to hear that leader's angry, stormy, denunciative tones to spring out to the boat and begin a

combat, for which order.

My

my

cabin contained arms in perfect

followers all

knew

that

we were among

the warlike Bangala, and I was well aware that every

European

in the flotilla

bell of the

En

needed only to hear the alarm-

Avant to drop

affected blandness,

his listless

manner and

and assume a fighting mien with

the dangerous breechloader in his hands.

The

leader,

however, was mute, and

I

found myself

feeling decidedly unpleasant under this concentrated

gaze,

ignorant as

I

i883.

October 23.

with the great

pictured

a bond of brotherhood was

chiefs like

to

_

was of the language of Iboko.

iboko.



!

THE CONGO.

88 18B3.

Could

but have spoken their dialect

I

October 23, jboko.

-

I

!

have often

p

i

i

thought since what an opportunity tor a moral lesson

was

lost

by

It

this.

was perhaps fortunate that

I did

not.

Yumbila continued

His desire

have done.

sibly

in better

form than please

to

moderated whatever passions might have

He

surface of this comparative silence. I

lain near the'

how

described

was borne through the ranks of the combatants,

and bow

He

bearer passed on unscathed and unhurt.

its

described

how

yongo,

I

my

victorious action with regard to Mi-

had saved him from the

clothed him, and

upon

also

;

The war

his

were remarkably

upon the on

rich things

weapons, with properties, safety, if did,

Ibanza

their

huge

the

quick

stores

man and

and the " bub-bub " of

inflicted defeat

it

murderous

of

slaying

beast

sound,

!

my

I strongly suspect

— the

dreaded

on them in 1877

genial, world-loving,

making, fraternal Bula Matari was, could

in the house

their

secured, and from Tandelay

who had

wide

and when he dilated

effective,

emerged the form of the

all

of the cannon

ball across the

danger had existed, which

was

a

at Bolobo I heard touched

its

on

and

home with

which were hidden

big steamer,

the

island, fed

his

to

descriptive

gestures,

thundering and shooting river,

him

restored

store of wealth.

it

and

soothed

had saved Irebu from mutual destruction, how the

flag

it

I could pos-

peace-

Oh, what a comedy

but be written

fairly,

and with

reasonable truth

A

forked palm branch was brought.

Kokoro, the

— MATA BWYKfs heir,

came forward,

seized

'

drawing out

and kneeled before me,

it,'

'

!

obeyed him, and

" I

ing his hand he cleaved the branch in two.

he

said,

"I declare

my wish

as

he cried, " Hold the

bis short falchion,

other branch, Bula Matari

89

DECISION.

to be

lift-

" Thus,"

your brother."

Then a fetish-man came forward with

his lancets,

and fresh green banana

long pod, pinch of

salt,

He

Kokoro's sword-bladed spear while

held the

one of

my

staff of

shaft of the spear

scraped on the

and the stock of the a pinch of salt

leaf,

the wood, and finally a

rifle

were then

was dropped on

dust from the long pod

little

was scraped on the curious mixture. were crossed

The

was bi'ought from the steamer.

rifles

leaf.

Then our arms

— the white arm over the brown arm— and

an incision was made

in

each

;

and over the blood was

dropped a few grains of the dusty compound, and the white arm was rubbed over the brown arm.

Now his

Mata Bwyki

long giant's

lifted his

drove back the compressed crowd,

staff

clearing a wide

most magnificent

mighty form, and with

and then roaring out

in his

style, leonine in its lung-force,

kingly

circle,

in its effect

" People of Iboko

!

You by

the river side, and you

Men of the Bangala, listen to the words of Mata Bwyki. You see Tandelay before you. His other name is Bula Matari. He is the man with the many of inland.

canoes,

and has brought back strange smoke-boats.

has come to see Mata Bwyki.

Bwyki tlie

to be his friend.

He

He

has asked Mata

Mata Bwyki has taken him by

hand and has become

his blood-brother.

Tandelay

„ }^^''^-^

October 23. if^^ko.

;

TBE CONGO.

90

'

iboko.'

He

belongs to Iboko now.

1883.

Oh

Baiigala.

^^^®

Bwyki."

!

has become this day one of

Iboko, listen to the voice of

Mata

thought they must have been incurably

(I

deaf not to have heard that voice.)

"Bula Matari and Mata Bwyki

Hurt not Bula

have joined hands. steal not

Bring your pro-

Briug food and

at a fair price, gently, kindly,

my

Matari's people

from them, offend them not.

duce and barter with him.

and in peace,

We

The that

Mata Bwyki

hear,

rest of the

to be sold to

I could bring

Meantime I

I

?

An

the Bangala.

and palms and banana-groves

me, but I deferred the purchase until

up Lieutenant Coquilhat and

had merely come I

to reconnoitre,

with

presents

our

panions imitated

and

and

should return

descended towards the

liberal

—you by

his

men.

explained to them that on this occasion

Langa-Langa, I

is

in obtaining a promise

among

should build a station

t

!

he

" shouted the multitude.

day was spent

entire village of huts

was

!

for

him

"

the river side, and you of the interior '•

sell to

Hear you, ye people of Iboko

brother.

We

are one to-day.

examining

on them as

call

We

equator.

Mata

after

exchanged

Bwyki, and our com-

example.

The

ceremony of

blood-brotherhood was performed several times over,

with the sons and nephews of the patriarchal old chief

On

the 25tli

struck over to discovered. as the islets

It

we continued our journey up tlie

left

bank by

was no easy

were

so long

and

tlie

task,

so

first

river,

and

channel

we

however, to do

this,

numerous, that we did

LUXURIANT TROPICAL SCENES. not finally reach the

left

bank

until

91

we had steamed

i88.3.

October 25,

for thirteen hours.

iboko.

For purely tropical

commend

scenes, I

the verdu-

rously rich isles in mid-Congo, between Iboko on the

right bank, and

Mutembo on

the left bank, with the

channels meandering

intricate

and recurrent

between.

There the rich verdure

river

reflects the brightness

of the intense sunshine in ghstening velvet sheen from

frond and

leaf.

The underwood

witli their tufted tops or the

presents varied colours,

climbing serpentine form

of the llianes, and their viny leaves. their

own

Each and

believe

the

of tropical

all

At

times

all

same refreshing gladness and vigour

nature

Some of

tude.

have

separate and particular beauties of colour-

ing that renders description impossible. I

all

may be observed

the

smallest

islets

about this

seemed

lati-

to

be

aflame with crimson colouring, while the purple

of the ipomeea, and the gold and white of the jasmine

and mimosa flowered, bloomed and fragrance.

by

his



difl'used

a sweet

Untainted by the marring hand of man, or

rude and

blooming thus

sacrilegious

presence,

these

in their beautiful native innocence

isles,

and

grace, approached in aspect as near Eden's loveliness as anything I shall ever see on this side of Paradise.

They

are blessed with a celestial bounty of florid

leafy beauty, a fulness of

possibly be

vegetable

matched elsewhere

warm and abundant

life

and

that cannot

save where

soil

with

moisture and gracious sunshine

are equally to be found in the same perfection.

Not

mere things of beauty alone were these

The

isles.

TEE CONGO.

92 1883.

iboko.

palms were perpetual fountains of a sweet

when

The golden nuts of other fat,

and pleasure

effervescing affords delight

good enough

On

fresh.

which

juice,

man.

to

trees furnishes rich yellow

an epicure, when

for the kitchen of

the coast these are esteemed as an article of

The

commerce.

and endless lengths of

luxuriant

calamus are useful for flooring and verandah mats, for sun-screens on river voyages, for

temporary shelters

on some open river terrace frequented by fishermen, for fish-nets

and

traps, for field baskets,

and a host of other useful

articles,

the construction of neat

for

Such

fancy lattice-work.

hang

creepers which

pale

and wind circuitously

that

we

days

be

will

trader, there

good

is

bark

is

fibre

will be of

facture of paper.

native

upon one another.

and which some hunted

by

and

its

soft,

in the future for the

at the various

Their

of

the

For the enterprising

cloth,

some use

Look

the caoutchouc

with fleshy green leaves

a ficus,

for

is

industriously

natives of Iboko and Bolombo.

The

sturdy tree.

see

plant, of great value to commerce,

these

strong cord-like

the

in festoons

white blossom which

but more especially

and strong houses, and

are

upward along the trunk of

market hampers,

make

dexterous natives of Bangala, will

its

spongy

manu-

palms crowding

prepared

fibres,

;

by the

the stoutest

hawsers, the strength of which neither hemp, Manilla fibre,

nor jute can match

cord threads as silk

is

;

it is

as superior to ordinary

to cotton.

See that soft pale-

green moss draping those tree-tops is

the Orchilla

like a veil.

That

weed from which a valuable dye

is

IMMENSE FOREST WEALTH. extracted.

I

93

need not speak of the woods, for the

dark forests that meet the eye on hank and

have no end. day its

We

seem

isle

to

hurn specimens of their timher every

and engineers may be frequently seen admiring colour and veiniiig, and inhaliug the fragrance of ;

the

We

gum.

are banqueting

on such sights

odours that few would believe could

the wealth of colours revealed every

and

We

exist.

like children ignorantly playing with diamonds. is

tall

are

Such

new moment

to us already jaded with the gorgeousness of the tropic

world.

Rarities

and treasures of vegetable

passed by us continuously

;

are

life

we can do nothing with

them, our mission at this time being to hunt up the

human

denizens, to experiment on

Whatever

interest

we may

many-hued splendour of the

human

profess, after all, in this

tropic bush, in the varie-

gated beauty and overflowing vegetable river it

is

isles,

nature.

or the bountiful wealth of the

life

Congo

but secondary to that which one must

human

on these forests,

feel for the

communities, the muscles of whose members

have a more immediate and practical value

For

to us.

without these the flowers, the plants, the gums, the moss, and the dye weeds of the tropical world must

ever remain worthless to them and to ourselves.

every cordial-faced

aborigine wliom I

promise of assistance to

from the

state

present lives.

of

me

in the

meet

1

see

In a

redemption of himself

unproductiveness in which he at

I look

upon him with much of the same

regard that an agriculturist views his strong-limbed child

;

he

is

a future recruit to the ranks of soldier-

188.1.

it^k^,^

THE CONGO.

94 1883,

The Congo

labourers.

October25.

^

,

Mutembo. ^i

have but enough

is

.

-,

would oecome a vast productive garden.

ckss,

liis

That

basin, could I

,

.

why

one reason

I always search sharply for

cordiality of demeanour, a certain frankness of expres-

from which

sion,

I can extract

hope for the future.

I

mentally review the faces thus seen, and say to myself, "

You

are shy

and strange now,

my

friend, but worse

looking fellows than you have been

made

A

few more

would go anywhere with me."

I fancy

themselves and the world.

fellows

seem

to read

my

useful to

trips,

and you

sometimes

tlie

thoughts, and smile encourag-

ingly upon me, as though they would say in vulgar

You are right, my boy, but bye and bye." Near Mutembo a trading canoe was met descending

idiom, "

the river.

We

we had been

feasting royally on the perfume of flowers

aud blossoms, to Iboko.

my

forgot all about the isles of Eden, where

to talk

with

its

crew.

They belonged

Rumour had reached them, with

brotherhood with old Mata Bv/yki.

its tale

We

of

traded

with them in eatables, and gossiped, like friends, of auld lang syne, amid lively chaff and laughter.

had eleven large tusks of ivory, but that was an

we

did not want,

much

They article

to their surprise.

Before arriving at Mutembo, however,

we came

to

the end of the long island that winds parallel with the left its

bank, and prevented us from viewing chief Ibombo.

From

all

accounts, this settlement

must be exceedingly enterprising, but in w^ealth, strength, It

Ukumbi and

inferior to

Iboko

and numbers.

had been a beautiful day, bright

as a Mediterra-

A STORM.

95

neau summer day, but about campinsr time the low .

'



1

westering sun became quickly obscured, and toe clouds

seemed advancing from ihe north-west, north, and north-east with startling rapidity towards the zenith.

Looking behind

the

at

south,

we saw rank

rank of voluminous cloud rising as though them.

We

after

meet

to

had often seen similar features in the sky

towards sunset, but on this day there was an ominous depth of blackness to attract our attention.

we

Still,

could find no place for shelter, the impervious bush sloped forest

from under the overhanging boughs of the

monarchs down

to the river surface with

an im-

penetrable closeness that would resist the sharp nose of a crocodile.

AVe were in a channel two hundred

yards wide, walled in by a bank of vegetation that rose 150 feet high.

Two

lofty fortress walls could not

have been more inhospitable

to us.

Therefore, while

the skies warned us to shelter, the shores on either side positively refused

it.

The zenith became

finally

overcast and gloomy, but the northern sky changed

its

hue to an ashy grey, wherein the tempest brooded.

Through some

invisible

became unruffled, the

influence,

tiniest leaf

the

hung

river's

still,

face

the tallest

reed stood straight, as though " attention " had been ordered, and Nature had stiffened into a petrified ness.

there

Only

for a

still-

few minutes, however, for presently

was a simultaneousness of movement.

millions of leaves in the forests were

violent rustling.

i883.

October 25. 1

1

1

Millions of others

All the

started into a

came

sailing

down

before the blast of the tempest, and millions of wave-

Mutembo.

THE CONGO.

96

broke over the face of the channel, seemins: ° to ^acc in couipanj with the leaves. The tall trees, the

1883. lets October 25.

Mutembo.

.

.

bombax, and copal and palm, streamed, ragged and

up a

frayed, while the forests set

We

human

almost

creaking,

had no time

in

fearful

groaning and

agony of

its

to note further, for the

resistance.

tempest bore

down on

us with such overwhelming, overpowering

force, that

our

flotilla

was driven down stream, despite steam opposed to

strenuous resistance

the

were perforce compelled the bushes of which

edge away

to

squall

my

to the shore, to

we grappled with our

and waited tremblingly and

drowned the scene

boat-hooks,

while the rain-

chillily

in spray

We

it.

and water.

From

cabin door I saw the river's face covered with re-

bounding

jets,

which seemed

to spring

up a

foot high,

so forcefully did the fierce rain scourge its late

The

face.

time sea.

rollers

we appeared

surged against us, and for a short to be tossing heavily in

an angry

Fortunately, before dark the rain ceased, and

were enabled

to find a hole in the

hawser

fast

;

but

was

it

we

bush walls, through

in one after another to

which the crew climbed the

calm

too

late

to

make

search

for

fuel.

A

work next morning provided

couple of hours' hard

us with sufficient

wood

continued our journey.

to last eight hours,

and we

Mutembo and Imeme,

places

which distinguished themselves in 1877 by coming out in battle array against us,

we had

and then

passed their villages,

deserted for several months.

we

firing

on us after

discovered to have been

We

then came opposite to

A BICE COUNTRY. what we formerly considered

to

97

be the mouth of

tlie

i883.

October

Sankiiru River, but which Yumbila, our guide, declared to be

We

merely a channel.

ascended by

did not wish to lose sight of the that a valuable

discovered

left

forest of

it,

copal trees

commenced, the tops of which were draped with chilla

weed.

from the exclaim "

or-

general burst of admiration broke out

lips of the

who were heard

Zanzibaris,

to

:

Ah,

is

country

friends, this is a rich

and enough There

A

we

Here we

bank.

gum

since

make many

orchilla to

!

Copal below,

fortunes on the top.

And

nothing like this in our country.

look at the rubber bush

just

" !

During the whole of the 27th we passed by one continuous copal forest, covered thickly with the precious

dye-weed.

On was

the 28th

we came

to

lower Ukatakura, which

deserted, and, a little

also

above the clearing,

arrived at the mouth of a creek about ten yards wide, said

by the guide

to issue

from the Lulungu

Ukatakura, also deserted, was passed at 4

Upper

!

p.m.,

and on

the banks of another narrow creek just above, issuing

from the

The in

interior,

we camped.

orchilla-covered forest continued nearly all

view on the 29th.

shorter and

On

our right the islands became

more complicated.

bank-full now, but

still

day

rising

The ;

in

river was nearly

many

places

it

had

already broken over the low banks and entered the forest,

and the highest portion uninundated was not

more than Vol.

6 inches

IL— 7

above the face of the

river.

This

2*J.

ukata"

THE CONGO.

98 1883.

was evidently

October 30.

Mpaki-

a o:ood reason

.

,

why

was

there

so

much

.

.

unoccupied territory in this direction.

Yumbila, the guide, beheved that

Imeme, Mutembo, and Ukatakura driven

away from

Ubika,

who

On with

live

people of

the

must have been

country by the warriors of

their

on the right bank.

the 30th, also, the copal- tree forest continued, its

In the afternoon we

drapery of dye- weed.

passed the deserted settlements of Mpakiwana.

Early on the morning of the 31st we had to lay-by for another squall, for about

tinuing our voyage, village of Diya.

we came

an hour, and then conabreast of

Iringi, so well

absurd and treacherous attack

its

tlie

remembered people

had warred with the people of

compelled them to

At

three

rapids,

were

settle at

o'clock

finally

Ikingi, a

Iringi,

halted

and

by some small

to seek another channel.

enabled to

in

Umangi, on the right bank.

we were

and compelled

for the

made on us

1877, was discovered at noon quite deserted. tribe inland,

jDalisaded

We

steam through deep water

unobstructed to Mpa, ruled by lunga, situate just one mile above the rapids, where

we were

received with

the same amiability that distinguished their neighbours

of

Rubunga

We

in 1877.

had now arrived

at a point

744 statute miles

from Le'opoldville, and about 500 miles of this distance

had been traversed along low-forested banks of mainland and islands.

But as soon

as

we came near

the

small rapids of Mpa, a wide diagonal stretch of river

came

into view, at the

upper end of which rose the

REFUSING TRADE.

99

beautiful hills of Upoto, suffused with the tender green

colour of

we saw

young

grass, except at the lower slopes,

groves of bananas and

extensive

where of

fields

cassava.

On

the next day

we steamed up

Nganza, lorded by old Rubunga. slightly

from the place we saw

it

through some internecine squabble. in

renewing our

to the village of

had been moved

It

five

years before

We

were not long

acquaintance with

Rubunga, whose own village

the

old

Makukuru, who remains master of New Nganza. the old time,

Umangi, Mpissa,

the right bank, and

Mpa from

Ukere',

in

the left bank, despatched

goats and sheep, and vegetable that

As

and Upoto from

their representatives with ivory tusks, large

manding

chief

several miles higher, and

is

and

small,

food, clamorously de-

we should buy from them.

Such urgent

entreaties accompanied with blandishments to purchase their stock

were

difficult

to

resist.

become firmly convinced that vancing

from

the

quarter

so

The people had

many

from which

whites

ad-

guns and

powder, cloth, beads, and wire were known to issue could not have ventured so far except for that object.

Therefore they would not for a

understand a stood

that

refusal.

we would

When

considerable

time

at last they fully under-

not purchase ivory their dis-

appointment was naturally very great, and yet they persisted in offering their elephant teeth at such ridi-

culously low prices, that tribes

below

felt

to the far-famed

it

was no wonder the

riverine

vexed when they saw us pass by them

Langa-Langa.

i883.

Nov.

1.

I.angaLant';!.

THE CONGO.

100 1883.

Nov.

1.

Langa^"^'^"

According

Yumbila, the populated districts here^^ about are known to the Wyyanzi and Bangala as to

Langa-Langa (the

tipper country

This

?).

is

the El

Dorado of native ivory buyers, probably from the unof the clotheless and over-

sophisticated aboriginism

tattooed beings they

Few

met

here.

of our crews believed that there were

women

who went about before men's eyes Naked busts and limbs freely exposed

of their colour absolutely nude.

were common, they were aware, through the exigencies of aboriginal

but this unabashed nudity

life,

much

astonished them.

A

word must be uttered

in

extenuation of this

shameless exposure of their persons by the

Langa-Langa. is

women

of

Perceiving that cloth or other covering

unobtainable to screen their persons from the gaze

of men, they have resorted to marring that comeliness of which they originally might have boasted

ring their faces and busts.

Or was

it

by

scar-

the jealousy of

who imagined this hideous device to shield women from harm ? However the folly, nay,

the men, their

crime, originated,

and the

it

has served the purpose effectually,

Langa-Langa

people,

by immolating

that

smoothness of outline of the face and velvety touch of the slaved.

skin,

have saved themselves from being en-

Strangely enough, the Langa-Langa people

think the style of scarring their faces by thousands of

little cuts,

interspersed with

to be beautifying

;

huge tumorous

blisters,

and Maka-kuru, having become

brother, earnestly implored

me

to give

my

him the oppor-

!

THE GUERENCY CHANGING. tunity

of exercising

liis

skill

my own

personal adornment on

in

four,

novel art of

this

face at

Langa-Langa than

with no powder, but the Bangala have since then

now

there

may

be pro-

bably a hundred guns on both banks of the river.

Like

other natives, even those near to the coast, the loud

NATIVE OF LANGA-LANGA,

startling roar of

powder has

a

charm

for

them

;

and

though they are not bold against Bangala and Irebu warriors, they are willing

the interior the

much

The

who have

enough

to frighten people in

not yet succeeded in obtaining

prized musket.

currency

here

changes.

The

whole

piece

(twenty-four yards) of domestics and stripes effectively

served us as far as

Many an ga.

1.

I.anga-

In that year they only possessed

extended their influence, and

1883.

Nov.

They have many more muskets they owned in 1877.

101

Blue glass beads be-

Langa.

THE CONGO.

102 1883.

Nov.

came then

in

demand

as far as

lyumbi ridge

;

thence

1.

Lan^a-

^s far as

Langa-Langa the brass rod or matako was the

most convenient sofi,

of

but at Langa-Langa the masaro, or

;

known

Ujiji,

to

Itah'ans as

Cannetone bead,

very similar to half-inch pieces of pipe stem, white and black, comes into use with large cowries.

coming

are slowly

into

favour, but

Brass rods trader will

the

regret being unprovided with the pipe stems.

however, will win the day here eventually. literally besieged for the

rag that we possessed.

Cloth,

AVe were

very smallest refuse of clout-

The

store of bread, eggs, fowls,

obtained for cast-ofF pieces of cotton dress, was most

two yards of bright red handkerchief

surprising, while

purchased a

fat goat.

The Langa-Langa natives have only that ivory

marketable.

is

them have

The

lately learned

visits of the

Bangala

Mpa, Yakongo, Ikassa, on the

excited

to

left

bank, and Umangi, Mpissa, Ukere, Upoto, and Iringi

on the right bank, in the same visited

to exploit the regions

manner

above them,

as they themselves are periodically

by Iboko and Irebu.

From Nganza our

course

is

eastward as

we

continue

our voyage, and will continue so for about two degrees of longitude.

Since leaving Leopoldville our course

has been about north by east as far as the junction of the

Kwa

vvith

the Congo, thence north for about 130

miles, thence about north east

by noith as

On

far as

the 4th of

bank we passed

by

east as far as Iboko, thence

Nganza.

November, clinging

still

after about eight miles

to the left

steaming the

TIMIDITY OF THE NATIVES.

new

Rubunga,

village of

called

Yakongo

103 at

;

noon we

i883.

Nov.

were abreast of Ikassa

were too timid

to

in

N. Lat.

answer

oiir

despite our friendship with old

2"

hail,

The people

1'.

but at Yakongo,

Rubunga, they seemed

up a

creek, the entrance

to

have prepared

to

which had been palisaded to prevent our approach.

I

for flight

presume the men must have had cause

the acquaintance of strangers.

The

dread

to

arrival of cloth,

however, in greater abundance must undoubtedly

seal

effectually the virtue of the females.

running by

Getting out of the narrow channel Ikassa and Yakongo,

bank

On

to try

vanished

across to the right

our fortunes thence forward on that 5th

the

we steamed

all

and we had

again, but of a

of the hills of

traces

Upoto had

the same flatness of

more habitable height above

side.

ground

river,

and

the forests that rose in such towering walls of dark

green vegetation, had been cleared in

many

places,

although the inhabitants were wanting.

The next

we came

day, after passing several abandoned

sites,

Ndobo, a very large and newly

built

to

village or town, laid in

an uniform

mile and a half in length.

line of about a

Immediately beyond rose

Ibunda into view, whose people we found seated on the ground with their spears and ofi'ensive weapons

alongside of each.

As

these people had evidently but lately settled in

the two towns, they were not remarkable for neatness in appearance.

The lower

half of some of the huts

were of wattle and plastered over. Steep ladders strung

4.

2
TEE CONGO.

104 1883.

Nov.

day bank, which was from

along the upright

8 to

5,

Ndobo.

12 feet above the river, enabled the natives to step in

and out of

Their dug-outs, though

their canoes.

numerous, appeared to be small, and only adapted for Sloping roads had been carved out of the

fishing.

bank here and there vessels

up

canoes,

many

of which

drag their

to

to the safe level of their town,

new

their

them

to enable

and

we saw

to launch

in process of

construction. It first

was

in the neighbourhood of

heap of oyster

shells,

Ndobo we saw

the

which will no doubt long

remain there in evidence of a former population. Early on the 7th we arrived at Bumba, which in

A fog

real town.

was a

had prevented us from seeing

anything until we were close upon quillity of

deemed

it

opportune to

test

their

tall

bank.

and

hospitality

Myombi, the

persuaded by Yumbila to

hood with me, and

was

the tran-

and succeeded in obtaining an invitation

go alongside the

easily

By

it.

demeanour observed among the people we

friendliness,

to

size

scarified,

and

for the fiftieth

my

make time

chief,

was

blood-brother-

my

poor arm

blood shed for the cause of

Probably one thousand people of both

civilisation.

sexes looked on the scene wonderingly and strangely.

A young branch of a palm was cut, twisted and tied at each

end

;

the knots were dipped in

a knot

wood

ashes,

and then seized and held by each of us while the medicine-man

practised

lanced us both until

his

blood-letting

Myombi winced with

art,

pain.

and

After

which the knotted branch was severed, and in some

THE DREADED IBANZA.

105

incomprehensible manner I Lad become united for ever ^ to

my

,

brother,

fiftieth

whom

to

was under the

I

obligation of defending against all foes until death.

Despite, however, these and sundry other precautions against imaginary evil, the people satisfied in their

were not quite

minds, for the dreaded Ibanza must be

What was

concealed, they thought, in our boats.

and

that they heard throb as the

En

sigh,

Avant came alongside

it

and groan so heavily their landing place

They ranged themselves over and above

?

the boats, lost

in silent contemplation of the wonderful

structures.

Their thoughts struggling for utterance were perplexing them, and preventing the usual glib and noisy

The problems they have to weighty and difficult, they know of nothing

interchange of ideas. resolve are to

which they can compare the medley of strange noises

issuing from the

What

huge

iron pots

unseen power was

they saw

fly

it

which

that revolved the wheels

drum

contain

?

Why

cook throwing in such large sticks

wood?

Is it the

drum who makes of the funnel

What

around with lightning speed?

does that iron

eat

hiss incessantly.

?

?

is

that white

Does the Ibanza

Ibanza cooped up in the iron

that squeaking noise escaping

out

These and such like thoughts trouble

the minds of the aborigines of trade for food can be

Bumba,

made although

so tliat

it

is

little

j^lentiful

and cheap.

On

the 8th, bananas, goats, chickens, sugar-cane,

tobacco, pumpkins, sweet potatoes and sold, altliough the

multitude

is

yams are

flighty

freely

and prone

to

isss.

Nov.

7.

Bumba.

!

THE CONGO.

106 1883.

Bumba.

panic,

which causes the two

chiefs

Myombi and Sun go

Maji to be rushing about crying out " Peace,

your produce in

Sell

security,

people

brothers by every bond that can bind us."

however, these hearty

!

these whites are our

Withal,

impress their people

efforts lo

with confidence the slightest rush of steam, a

movement

of a white man, the impatient lifting of a helmet

off

the brow, the scratching of a heated head would send

hundreds promiscuously fiying

and over the hand-bell of

trees,

and towards the boats

their

searched for the cries

of "

first

Be

nothing to fear chiefs,

who were

criers,

denoted

" Ibanza "

!

yet

screams

that

he was

rolling eyes of the

men

symptoms that he was advancing

men

firm,

" reiterated

of

Bumba, there

is

over and over, by the

ringing their bells like anxious townvivid

emerged

One of my

old

stifled

a presentiment

to

testified

present, the uneasy restless

the

the long

incantations, but

was a dread of the " Ibanza." The

women

;

Sungo Maji was vigorously beaten, and

men came and muttered of

herd of frightened

Sacred water was sprinkled along the shore,

buffalo.

there

like a

into

expectancy,

view

finally

the

!

cabin-boys, enjoying

fright visible in the actions

and

and

all this

extraordinary

faces of the natives,

while I was engaged talking with the engineer, had

gone into the

cabin,

shutting the

door after him.

Presently the door was violently burst open, and the splendid form of a royal Bengal

A

tiger crawled

long thrilling sliriek rang out, and

all

out

at once the

hundreds that stood on the shore, casting one hurried

A TRICK WITH A TIQER-SKIN.

107

glance at the terrible figure, with an unity of move-

i883.

Nov.

ment

shrieking and yelling from the river bank.

fled

When we

discovered what had caused this extra-

ordinary flight of

the

their

aborigines,

were

yells

immediately followed by roars of laughter from the crews of the boats, which the flying natives heard,

and then

halted,

more

reassured

merriment than by hours of of the criers.

young

tall

ringing on the part

bell

brought them back,

It

laughing

fellow

by the

effectively

to

too,

see a

while

immoderately,

a

collapsed tiger-skin lay at his feet in a harmless heap.

contagious, and one might see

The laughter became an

entire population slapping their thighs, staggering

convulsively about,

support

as

they

and

reeled

under

another for

one

grasping

which

spasms

the

agitated them.

An

hour and a half above

Bumba

populous town named Yambinga. bank.

As we

town appeared

It is

is

an equally

on the same

approached, the lower portion of the to be disposed

reject us

to

;

but

we

persevered in bawling out for Mukuku, the chief of

Yambinga, whose name we had Sungo-Maji

of

Bumba.

Mukuku

deifrned to

bank, a

veritable

dress

In

come out

slyly obtained

about into

fifteen

from

minutes

view on the river

dark Robinson Crusoe, in head-

Over

and accoutrements.

wore an antelope-skin

cap,

crest of cock's feathers,

his

curly head

he

adorned with a mighty

while a broad slioulder-belt

of leopard-skin, attached to which was a misctllaneous

assortment of the tags and tassels of

fetisli

8.

Yambin
mysteries,

THE CONGO.

108 1883.

Nov.

8.

Yambinga.

was .

slunj^

come

to



He

breast.

/

advanced

crying,

and I have heard of the Ibanza.

him

see

T

energetically his long bell,

Mukuku, to

11



nngmg

manlv

over his

.

face to face.

" I I

am wish

Let the Ibanza land, and

Mukuku."

These were brave words

;

but anyone might see by

OLD CHIEF IN NATIVE-MADE HAT.

the

manner Mukuku hovered near

human so

the thickest of the

throng, that had he not been chief, and been

vociferously

hailed

by Yumbila, he would have

much

preferred to remain unseen by

whom

he so valorously adjured to walk ashore.

We

set ourselves

tlie

resolutely to conquer

grim

spirit

Mukuku's

TAMBINGA. and with such good

fear of the Ibanza,

the blood-brotherhood

after

results, that

ceremony had been de-

of doubt

not a shadow

spatched,

109

of our

benignity

remained in the good man's head.

During our stay

here, the information

that behind, or to the north of

was

elicited

Yambinga, there flowed

a river which emptied into the Congo, east of their

town, called by some Itimbiri, by others Ngingiri.

They

said

was large; and that traders came from

it

the north, and sold cowries and white beads to the

Watumba who

inhabited

" Yambinga,"

They

is

land.

said our informants,

country round here, Itimbiri river

Musanga

is

large,

an island

"

and

(a peninsula

and ascends

far

this

all ?),

for the

behind us."

gave us a vast number of names of places

also

;

but their ideas of locality were so very vague, and as

each channel and tinctive

On

title,

islet

of the main river bears

their information

the 10th of

November,

had no

its dis-

practical value.

at 2 p.m.,

we

continued

our journey, and an hour later passed by Upper binga.

At

this place, hauled ashore, or floating in the

river fastened to

stakes,

Lower Yambinga

Bumba

Yam-

there

possessed

were

313

243 pirogues;

exposed

to

sight,

Ndobo and Ibunda, perhaps

nearly 400,

as

many, by which we have 1300 " dug-outs," or pirogues.

As

the smallest of these will likely have a

15

inches,

may

and

is

beam of

about 20 feet in length, an idea

be gained of the supplies of timber furnished

by about twenty miles of are too

valuable

to

forest.

The war canoes

be exposed to risk of loss by

i883.

Yambinga.

THE CONGO.

110 1883.

itimbiri.

flood, SO

rattan

they are submerged and fastened by strong

hawsers to poles deeply buried in the clayey

bank.

By

clinging to

the right bank,

un-

the

despite

promising narrowness of some of the channels, we

came

in the afternoon,

Yambinga,

two hours

into a broad channel

after passing

Upper

350 yards wide, which

by following up we found led us from a course E.S.E. to N.E., and kept northing very fast until we were running N.N.E.

It

was then on waking up that we

discovered ourselves to be in the river

At Yankau, on

the Itimbiri.

its left

named

bank, seated on

a bluff with a clear open country about river

north,

showed signs of further

still

we

to us as

it,

where the

inclination to the

retraced our course.

This then was the river which the people of Yam-

binga said ran behind them, and along which, in

its

upper course, traders came from the north distributing the Italian cannetone beads, and on whose banks lived

the in

The water they

Watumba. some

places,

opposite shore.

and a man could not be seen on Could

expansion of the river

The mouth

said spread out broad its

be a lake, or a mere broad

it

?

of the river

is

in

N. Lat. 1°

57',

and

is

about 180 geographical miles in a direct line to In-

guima, on

the

certainly clear,

Welle-Makua River.

Its

water

and might well come from a lake

no great distance inland.

Yamu-ningiri

is

the

is

at

name

of a large village about eight miles above the confluence,

up the

Itimbiri.

The

river forms a delta, and

SKILL IN METAL WORKING.

many ^

Ill

forested islets dot the entrance. Opposite ^

Yankau

a deep, navigable river, fully 350 yards wide, of

is

it

a slightly darker colour than the Congo.

On

great river,

the

we

about four miles,

situate

above the confluence

discovered Mutembo, consisting

behind their huts, spear in hand, to attack,

and

as

we

crouched

Its inhabitants

of three palisaded villages.

an expected

resist

passed by they dashed out into the

open and slapped their rearward parts

—a

method of

known

expressing contempt pretty generally

to vulgar

Europeans.

On

the 12th, in the early morning,

we

unusually large clearing, that

we

at

passed by an

first,

from

might have stood on the magnificent

now

The

dreary and desolate.

its

A city

spacious breadth, took to be a natural plain.

which was

site,

large population sup-

ported upon this wide expanse must have had powerful

reasons for

abandonment, of w^hich we must

its

remain yet awhile ignorant.

For the

plain

shall

the

right

the

meet on the cunning

spears,

the

double, and the

left

for its

bank of the Congo,

left

The abandoned

bank.

tribe,

whom

bank

we

as

descend.

This

iron manufactures, including

swords,

the

long

— Mgangaism,

known

their snake

single

to these

natives

and

the pro-

Inkissism, Ikiraism,

by whatever name you choose

sorceries

bells,

tiny dancing bells, which

fessors of fetishism

or

we saw

was once occupied by the Yalulima

tribe is

the

time

across from

clear

we

first

to designate

— love

and iguana-skin-girdles.

to

isss.

Nov.

,

_

attach

the to

10.

Mutembo.

THE CONGO.

112

At

1883.

bank of the

the projecting- point on the right

the

in

Yambungu. river,

which the Yaluhma

plain

inhabited, the breadth of the

Congo

is'

tribe

once

about a mile and

a half, and eight miles of a view np stream

is

obtained,

while as far as Muterabo below^ the main channels

exposed for

fully

An of

island, a

many

lie

miles.

few miles above, contains the village

Yambungu, whose

natives showed a disposition to

be friendly, but their dialect was unintelligible to

us,

although our guide, Yumbila, comprehended what they

They showed

said.

but, perceiving that

to us several large tusks of ivory,

we were not

purchasers of their

precious material, they brought to us enormous yams,

and baskets of large healthy sweet with broad

fat tails, besides

potatoes, also sheep

fowls and eggs.

Opposite the upper extremity of this island

covered the embouchure of another river

— whose

waters verged on blackish in colour.

hundred and

fifty

yards would be a

could be gained from the natives, but

said that it

my

a branch of the Itimbiri River.

it is

it

The

was of great width.

are populous.

We

Two

fair estimate of its

Not much information that was

breadth.

that

— the

we disXkuku ?

intelligible

opinion

is

Inland they

districts

around

heard such names of villages as

Luika, Yatui, Bwila, Mukanda-Meya, Isako, Bungele,

Wanbuna, but definitely,

it

as

we may have

shortly to locate these

will be better for us in the

meantime to

leave the districts blank

On

the 13th

bank of

we voyaged along

a marvellously rich

tropical woods, dotted thickly with the fishing

8

APPEARANCE OF WAR CANOES.

113

The

we

hamlets of the Basaka.

islands of the Coujro °

also discovered to be peopled.

On

we

the 14th

Banm.

passed by the

Bahamba

and large war canoes were observed some of them being manned by

we

perceived that

we heard

men. "When they

forty

steadily pursued our

the sound of

drums

villages,

hover about,

to

attempting to land they returned to their night

way without villages. At

up-river,

and were

reminded of our experiences in 1877.

On

we steamed

the loth

view of the Baruu

in

up, and at 8 a.m.

villages, situate

probably 60 feet above the river.

came

on high ground,

There was a con-

siderable degree of hostile demonstration with spears

and

shields along the bank, but our steady progress

past them, with our curiosity to

still

demeanour, aided by their

pay more attention

to the steamers, quite

tranquilised them.

A the

thick fog settled over us for about an hour, and

left

bank loomed up

into

view between the

At noon I obtained an observation, and that we were in N. lat. 1° 17', and much Aruwimi than I thought. Orders were then given ridges, to

to

prepare

islets.

discovered

nearer the

rifles

and

cart-

guard against those impetuous spearsmen of

the great affluent which despatched flotilla

against us in 1877.

fierce aborigines

steam-flotilla

;

cautions, for if

It

would repeat

still

its

enormous canoe-

was not

likely that the

their attempt against a

prudence warned us not to omit pre-

we were ever taken unawares

in this

region so far removed from help, the flood of the Congo ToL. II.—

^^^^•

Nov. 15.

THE CONGO.

114 1883.

would certainly

Nov. 15.

Aruwimi.

We

.

remams. a

recipient

be the

,

^

our mutilated

of .

.

are also on this



1

1

armed with

occasion

charm, against which, unless they are hopelessly they need not hope to contend, and that

hostile,

is

Only

a determination on our part to remain passive.

when nothing else will avail shall we employ our we have to resort to our weapons, we and

rifles,

shall

it"

shall be utterly extin-

remain until their savageness guished.

The

forest

on our

left,

as

we

advance,

is

grand

in its

wealth of valuable woods and refreshing vernal appearance.

The

rises

boldly

emerge

islets are

rapidly thinning, the

view,

into

I

am

to

observing

when an immensely

these features of the landscape,

with

bank

and the Congo appears

into one broad united stream.

long canoe, loaded

left

armed

men,

dashes

from

behind an island, and races rapidly across the stream

being presently followed by another, and

still

;

another.

Compared with the petty dug-outs which we have hitherto seen, they are splendid vessels.

We, however, advance

much whether

these

in close order

;

and

I

doubt

reconnoitring war-canoes, after

discovering the strange guise in which the strangers are

advancing,

have obtained much comfort in the

column of smoke-boats.

The war-canoes having reached the tinue on their this sight

way upward, one

after another

;

and in

our eyes, rapidly taking note of every move-

ment, detect in

going

right bank, con-

it

an augury of good.

to be a rush this time,"

we

" There

thought.

is

not

115

BATTLE ARRAY. Presently passing the

stood

the attack affluent

the

of the

flotilla

took

by

of the Aruwimi, the great

The mighty parent

gapes open into view.

Steadily

Aruwimi,

where

and the very spot where we awaited

stream also appears, with water.

clearing

which we stormed and

village

assault in 1877,

abandoned

the

magnificent breadth of

its

we

continuing on our way,

until

rounding

enter

which

a point

has

prevented us as yet from obtaining a view of the villages,

we

see the

town

of Mokulu,

where the Basoko,

or Basongo, our ancient foes, reside.

It

is

extended

along a high clay bank about three miles in length. All

its

males, I should say, are in battle array on the

verge, presenting an irregular, bronze-coloured line of

fully-armed men. red, left

and white

Brave

— and

in

their war-paint

holding

large shields on their

arms, they disport themselves fantastically before

our view, while the great war-drums alarm, and incite their courage to a

—yellow,

deep, bellowing sound.

its

the

utmost pitch by

Keeping a

vance of us are the three war-canoes,

thunder

respectful ad-

now

joined by

four other monsters of craft of excavated teak, having

double rows of upstanding paddlers in each, with their paddle-shafts decorated with round ivory balls, while

on the platforms astern dance the naval warriors, and startling blasts,

from long ivory horns, sound wnld

musical notes, which are re-echoed by the

on the opposite

tall

woods

side.

Arriving opposite the centre of the town, we steered across the river to a small clearing, which T detected in

isss.

Aruwimi

THE CONGO.

116 1883. Nov. 15.

Mokulu.

the bank, dividing the grea* affluent from the Congo.

The

steam-launches, Royal and A.I. A., also the whale-

boat and canoes, were

En

while the

left here,

Avant,

the stream

detached from her consorts, raced across

back again to the warriors, that were so conspicuously

bank of Mokulu.

outlined on the verge of the bila,

Yum-

with the promise of a rich reward ringing in his

ears if he succeeded in allaying this frenzy, took his position

on the top of the cabin, and the steamer

having gained the upper extremity of Mokulu, stopped,

and

floated

down stream while

the voice of Yumbila

rang out clear and loud the words of

peace and

friendship.

They must have been powerful phrases our guide employed, judging from the sudden silence and hush that

fell

boomed sounds.

on the crowded river bank. the sonorous alarum of

The drums

war ceased

The horns which emitted

that

their deep

the dreadful defiant

the angry cries

grown hoarse with

fury, the frantic forms that leaped

and bounded upward

blasts of battle,

with quivering spears,

an anxiety

to

all

were hushed and

advance nearer and nearer

promising peace was evident of the masses.

And

stilled,

to tlie voice

in the stealthy

then, although

all

and

movement

this time

we

were quite ignorant what the syllabled jargon actually

— our task was that of silently noting everything — the people depositing their expressed,

sljields

we observed

for

and spears near stumps, or

in the rear, as if there

trees,

or houses

were a kind of guilt

in the late

frenzy that had possessed them.

A PEACEFUL CONQUEST. " Bravo,

done well

Yumbila

!

But go

more of your sweet bila begins

archness

!

keep at

it,

my

we

You have

friend.

on, their ears are

voice,"

117

hungry

And Yum-

whisiDered.

again with open palms, bland

combined with

humour,

to

to hear

and

face,

expatiate,

we

presume, upon the blessings of maintaining a friendly

communion of man with man.

Accent and gesture

are both so expressive, that they finally extort from a

warrior on the bank friendly

They

are so modulated

human

tones in reply.

and framed that they impress

even our ignorant ears and dull senses with a feeling that the speaker of the Basoko

the causes that induced

him and

explaining suavely

is

his fellows to exhibit

And

themselves so rampantly ferocious. understand, through Yumbila, that to

camp where

present,

the

and that

other

we

we

are requested

steamers are

after awhile the

then

the

for

left

Basoko would come

to us as friends.

We

waited an hour at our forest camp, and then

half-a-dozen

tiny canoes, each

advanced within 250 yards of tated,

containing two us.

themselves with

contenting

There they gently

men, hesi-

paddling

against the current.

Yumbila was again required accents to inspire

How

to exert

them with courage

very patient

we

growth of confidence

all

were,

to

his

advance nearer.

watching

in their minds,

when

it

sliore,

a few paces above our camp.

suasive

may

this

slow

be imagined

took those people an hour to approach our

Thither Yumbila,

and three of the most plausible of our men, marched

to

issa.

Mok'uiu.

THE CONGO.

118 1883.

No

meet

tbera, wliere the

15.

Mokuiu.

ceremony of blood-brotlierliood -^

.

was enacted, and

shrill

screams of satisfaction

nounced that their timidity was

The town of Mokuiu heard great drums

now sounded

at last

an-

vanquished.

the good news, and the the

which presently were responded

intelligence to

around,

with thunderous

booms from some other distant community, and thus our intercourse with the wild Basoko commenced.

— TUMBILA'S BUDGET.

119

CHAPTER XXIX. UP THE BIYERKE.



Yumbila returns with an interesting story Slave kidnappers probably from the Soudan Skilful workmanship Umaneh and Yakui Conical huts The course of the river Metropolitan Yambumba A sham famine The rapids Supposed identity of the Biyerre and Welle Keasons for this opinion Arabs in the neighbourhood Again on the Congo.





— —









e-uide, crossed over Yumbila, the ^

to

Mokulu with

When

nevv]y-made blood-brother that evening.

next

morning

he was

the

triumph.

The white man had promised

for his signal services,

he

radiant with

returned

him

his

to

reward

and the Basoko had pre-

sented him with two fine tusks of ivory, to

show

their

appreciation of his worth. It

may

well be supposed that he gossiped until late

among the Basoko, satisfying them with abundant information respecting the white men and the propelhours

ling

up

agencies that drove the smoke-boats so far

against the current of the Congo.

Basoko had something dition

And

to say whicli

isss.

Nov.

,

evidently the

smacked of

tra-

and wonder.

Unfolding his budget, Yumbila informed us

first

of

16.

Mokuiu,

THE CONGO.

120 1883.

Mokuiu.

how

many

the Basoko,

years ago, were alarmed by

who were descending the Yakusu, commanded by a man with a

reports of a powerful tribe

Congo

past the

face as pale as the *'

we never heard

canoes, unless

it

moon.

moving down with many

of a tribe

came

we moved

this tribe,

" In our waters," they said,

So when we heard of

for war.

out of our river to fight

it,

but

it

turned against ns just at the meeting of the waters,

and though the strangers did not

liave

many

canoes,

when we bore down on them they dropped our people level

with

that

we

fire

and

which tore ns

soft iron,

could not stand

against them.

to pieces,

They then

pursued ns and fought us in our own town, and we could not even see what

except our dead,

And

the tribe

who

it

'

it

down and never rose ngain. went away down the river, and we it

morning,

until the other

was quite dark, we heard the dread sound,

boom, boom, boom,' which

sky in our

ears,

and we

felt

is

like the

sleep,

our houses, and the darkness was jets of fire

;

thunder of the

the flash of the flame in our

Waking up from our

faces.

at us,

fell

never heard what became of while

was they threw

we

lit

rushed out from

up by a thousand

and a crackling noise was heard, louder

than a burning plain makes, and more terrible than the most prolonged thunder.

There was whizzing and

buzzing, as of flying stones, in our ears, and

many

of

our people, on coming out into the light of the burning houses, fear

were struck dead by these things.

came upon us

as

when we

first

thunder shot at us from the strange

The same

heard the loud tribe,

years ago,

WHO WERE THESE PEOPLE

"

on the

and we ran

river,

for

?

»

121

our very lives into the

1883.

Nov. 10.

we

depths of the woods, where, in the thickest parts, hxy with our faces in the ground, afraid to

heads up,

we might be

lest

hit

by those iron

lift

our

balls that

sang over us and crashed into the trees from our

When we

village.

heard our

women and

children

we thought we would do something. PVora our coverts we looked out. We saw that some of our houses were still on fire, and we heard again the long shrieks of our women and cries of our children, and again we heard the startling boom that those long cry out,

hollow tubes, such as your people make, and again

were we frightened and threw ourselves down into the By-and-bye there was a deathly

thick bush.

we got

a

little

bolder,

and crept out

as

you can

we

children,

to-morrow

see

it ;

was burnt

and as

;

to see for ourselves

what had happened, and when we came Mokulu, more than half of

stillness

to look

upon

to the ground,

for our

women and

hundreds of them."

lost

This was the story Yumbila had gathered, or some of

it,

his

which was only completely told when he induced

new

brothers to repeat to

most prominent points. in convincing this

"

him again some of

Yumbila had

its

fully succeeded

them that we could not have known of

massacre and ruthless deed of darkness.

Who

from

?

Where

are

they come to you " Ah,

Where did they come they now ? By what river did

were these people

we know

?

" ?

not.

We

were

all

asleep

when they

came, and they departed, no one knows where, in

Mokulu.

TEE CONGO.

122 1883.

We

canoes.

Nov. 16.

Mokuiu.

think they must be the Bahuno;a, ^ or some -^

people from the

far east, or

Some

the north.

perhaps they came from

of our people

managed

to get a sight

of them, and say they were dressed like your joeople.

But you came with Yumbila from below, and Yumbila says he never heard of such people."

By

dint of patient questioning,

we

learned also that

they heard that there were people wearing cloth north of the Basoko, from

whom

they sometimes, in the

way

of trade with neighbouring tribes, obtained a few oi their beads

and copper armlets, but they had not seen

any of them.

Of such a tribe 1877, and

my

Bahunga

as the

I

had never heard in

impression was that these midnight

marauders were Soudan slave-traders, who had probably descended the great

afiluent.

This opinion induced

me

to attempt obtaining

But even

information respecting this river.

its

some

name

they were either unable or unwilling to imjmrt to me,

and when they asked me river,

if I

and learned that such was

intelligence nearly

my

intention, the

became the cause of a rupture

our newly-made friendship. to

intended to follow up the

in

This manifest reluctance

any disclosures respecting the upper course of the

river only aroused

increased

when

I

which was further

were

Congo. exceedingly

cheaper than at Iboko.

seemed

curiosity,

learned that they had no objection

to our ascent of the

Provisions

my

abundant and were

White beads

;ind

cowries

to be the popular currency here until our cloth

MOKULU. was exhibited, when,

123

penny handkerchief

to possess a

became the object of general ambition.

Mokuiu

Their paddles, knives, and spears, exhibit remarkable skill in workmanship.

seen an infinite lizards,

number

crocodiles,

On

a paddle blade

may

be

of carvings rudnly resembling

canoes,

buffalo,

fish,

Their

&c.

knives are broad swords in size and breadth, and as finely polished

as

a

new

razor

;

while their spears

A TYPE OF THK RASOKO.

are as sharp and bright as though they had just

left

a Sheffield shop.

Almost every man possessed some kind of headdress, either knit out of

palm

fibre material, or

skin of a monkey, or an antelope.

A

made

of the

capacious knit

haversack was a universal appendage to the shoulder. Physically they are a splendid people for muscular

development, tliough there are some in colour,

ill-featured,

and puny of form among them.

dark

During the

few days of our mutual intercourse, they gave us a high idea of their qualities

—industry

iss.x

after their

own

style

TEE CONGO.

124 1883.

They seemed

not being the least conspicuous.

me

to

Kov. 17.

Umaueh.

most Valuable people

to ^6 the

had met.

that I

coming

for this characteristic

Their fishing canoes were witnessed

and going out continually, and while the

in

people traded with us, they continued to pursue their knitting of haversacks, hats, fish-nets, or twist twine, after the industrious

dame

manner of the

of England.

The town of Mokulu, though

large, did not

to the standard I expected to find in

that

traditional grand-

overwhelming

so proudly to

force of warriors,

it

as the liome of

which swept down

The

meet us in 1877.

come up

reluctance which

the aborigines manifested to our ascent of the affluent, the dim ideas that crept into

Arabs,

all

gate the

combined river,

to create

that,

my mind about

Soudanese

such a desire to investi-

thougli our time was valuable,

we started on the 17th to explore From a breadth of 1600 yards

it.

at the moutlij'^a

few

miles below Mokulu, the river contracts to 900 yards; then, it

where

islands begin to be a

little

more numerous,

widens, from bank to bank, to a breadth of about

1400 yards.

At

we left our camp opposite Mokulu, and two hours later we halted to cut better fuel. Resuming our journey at 2 p.m., we found ourselves three-quarters of

8 A.M.

an hour

later

abreast

of

Umaneh, which was

superior in extent to Mokulu.

A

among

the

canoes

would require propel

it

lay

alongside

at least one

veritable Leviathan

clay

bank,

and

hundred stout warriors

at sufficient speed in a river-fight.

The

to

stern

TEE FISHERMEN OF YAKUT. platform was of three-inch teak, while

12.")

bow was The empty

the

massive enough to sink a merchant ship.

canoe showed at least 30 inches of free board, and alons: its

whole length were carved figures of crocodiles and

fishes.

Umaneh being above Mokulu,

I

two and three-quarter hours

only

began

could muster a large

how

to see

the great affluent

Messengers, no doubt,

flotilla.

had informed the natives of our coming, peaceful

assemblage

we

than

groups, or

singly,

more

the

banks

noticed on

They

could not have been wished.

for a

coolly sat

have been well pleased with

in

surveying our vessels as though

they belonged to Greenwich or Liverpool.

architecture

down

such

to

I

should

exchange views on naval

indefatigable

canoe-eonstructors as these Basoko

;

and

scientific

but time would

not allow of delay.

At

6 P.M., of the

Yakui, on right bank

same day, we were abreast of ;

but Yakui on the

which came in view as we steamed past an

much

left

bank,

island,

was

larger.

At our camping-place next morning at dawn appeared the fishermen of Yakui, who sold us fish, and imparted the names of the villages very frankly. called

themselves Basongo

questioned about

the river,

very

few miles above we came

opposite

was

When

they gave their hand a

south-easterly turn indicative of

A

distinctly.

They

its

to

course.

Isombo, and nearly

the first bluff, about forty feet high, from

which the shore curved grandly from south-east

to

i883.

umaaeh.

126

THE CONGO.

About 10

^^^th-east. n!)v^% Bondeh.

a.m.

Bondeh, among the natives have created a panic

women and

for the canoes containing

bank by

left

of to

the

and household gods, were crossing

children,

over to the

;

we appeared in view of which we seemed

Here, for the

scores.

first

we saw a change in the architecture of the buildings. Many tall conical huts— of the candletime

also,

extinguisher type

—were

seen rising high above the

well-known low, ridge-roof Congo, since

we

left

adopted along the

style

As

the Atlantic.

these circular

huts appeared to be only about five feet in diameter, it

was

at

adapted

The

question

Bondeh

for.

bank

left

a

first

also

is

a

they

were

populous village.

upper extremity of Bondeh

the

at

what

as to

appears crowned with another important villnge called

Yambi.

When

this

last

place

appears in

begins another deep curve, which

two hours and find

to be

we

sight the

river

follow for about

an almost complete semi-

circle.

My

compass course

tells

me

that

we have been

running almost parallel with the Congo, and bearing the south-easterly indication of the native of Yakui.

For a -moment, river

we

I

am

half inclined to suspect that the

are ascending will

At noon I am anxious take a correct latitude, and I find we are in N. Lat. 59' 0" The day previous we were in N. Lat. 7' 0". With my preconceptions that this affluent

branch of the Congo after to

0° 1°

turn out to be a right

all.

!

must be the Welle, these revelations serve

to confuse

YAMBUMBA.

127

me and now, with curiosity greatly excited, whatever may be the result, we resolve on continuing the ;

2

Yambua and

P.M.

appear

tlie

populous settlements of

Irungu, consisting of two series of

half-a-

dozen villages, each grouped together on the right bank, on low rich land cleared out of a dense

An

hour

later,

on account of a steady

rainfall,

forest.

we

halt

and camp on the right bank.

We

start at 6.30 a.m.

metropolitan town of

dry on a semicircular feet

above the

huts,

of

river,

on the 10th, and

Yambumba

at 9

am. the

appears, high and

line of light-coloured bluff, forty

with a multitude of steeply conical

whose thatch shows grey amid vivid green

fig-trees,

bananas.

and mighty

Yet

eternal

impulse

enemy

suing them.

to fly,

despite their numbers,

first

to

be able to

which they did as though the

of both black and white

At

estimate of

fair

they did not seem strong-minded enough resist the

foliage

bombax, palmgroves, and

Eight thousand would be a

the population of the town.

men was

pur-

they appeared inclined to gaze

upon us as tranquilly as those of Umaneh had done, and accordingly posed in unconcerned attitudes along the verge of the soft

sandstone

bluff.

But they no

sooner heard the strange soughing of the steamers than

they took to their heels, their shields clattering on their hips in accompaniment to their quick steps. foes

Yambumba.

exploration to a definite issue.

About

i883.

Human

they no doubt thought they could cope with

;

but

against the Ibanza puffing and panting so deeply and so strangely, their onlj recourse

was instant

flight.

128 1883.

TEE CONGO.

.

Some

appeared in the distance, in a

hills

north-.

Nov. 2

Vambumba.

seeming to

easterly direction,

north-west

and

range running

our

course,

the upper horn of the

Yambumba

The

but

south-east;

arriving be^'ond

which

in a

lie

is

situate, still

after

crescent on

continued easterly.

islands gradually disappeared, revealing a clean

We

breadth of about 800 yards between each bank. observed also that the river was gradually falling.

A thick mist obscured

everything until

on the

9 a.m.

morning of the 20th, which prevented us from

An

ceeding on our journey.

long range of

From

hills

jDro-

hour later appeared a

on the right bank of the

the lower end of this range, in N. Lat. 1°

river.

16',

our

course led along a curve which brought us at noon to

N.

Four hours

Lat. 1° 14'.

On

the Eapids. villages, all

the

left

later

we came

in sight of

bank were seen a number of

the huts of which seemed to be of the

sharp conical form.

We

formed a camp about two miles below the rapids,

on the right bank, the villages across

at the sight of which the natives of

made a

Yumbila was urged

drums. tion, the

effect

silenced,

and

terrible racket

with their

to try to start a conversa-

of which

was that the drumming was

for nearly

an hour the creatures kept

bawling across the river one

to another puerile informa-

tion relating to bananas and goats.

Yumbila, always

hungry, clamoured to the aborigines to bring food sell for

beads

— the

to

natives as loudly denied that they

possessed any.

We

went across

in the whale-boat next

morning

to

A SHAM FAMINE. attempt

buya

;

desist.

Yam-

goodwill of the natives of

to obtain the

but, after

129

an hour's

effort,

we were compelled

They reported they were

to

starving, and they

A

acted the part of famished people admirably.

few

of our sailors tlirew some rolls of bread on shore in derisive unbelief of their statement

;

but

natives,

tlie

as quick-witted, affected to rush for the bread,

eat

it

witli inexpressible

and

satisfaction, at the siime

to

time

A

holding out their hands imploringly for more.

few cowries thrown on shore also caused an eager scrambling; but though they could not be induced to goats or food, they were not averse to talk.

sell

they were such consummate actors, not

fear, that as

much

reliance can be placed

to us, since while they

on any information given

gave us numerous names of

places, they

never mentioned, for instance,

own

was Yambuyn, whereas they declared

village

I

The rapids they

be Ngonde'.

also

their

tliat

called

it

Ruka

to

or

Luka, the river Massua, Kiyo, and Ikongo, whereas our frank friends of Vakui, called the river Biyerre. Disinclined, because

amount of work sumed

in

to be

baffled our inquiries,

the rapids.

command

unable

from the vast

done yet, and the time con-

navigating such lengths of river water, to

pursue investigation

to

really

full

among people who so zealously we turned away and rowed up

Reaching a point whence view of them,

I

I

could

concluded that they

might be descended easily by men who knew the road.

It is

one of those rapids that would be simply

exhilarating to rush

Vol.

IL— 9

down

— there

are no treacherous

i883.

yJ^n,,^u ya.

THE CONGO.

loO 1883.

whirlpools,

or

eddies,

Lack-ciirreiits

;

a

is

it

steep

Nov. 21.

of a flood over, probably, a clean

Yambuya. I'olling

They

reef.

450 yards wide, from the deep bend in

are about

the right bank to the low point projecting into the

stream from the

bank.

left

Thus we are halted

after

an ascent of about ninety-

As

six English miles of the Biyerre.

Congo

the river with the

camp below

the rapids

in

is

N. Lat.

N. Lat. 1°

in

is

the confluence of 1° 14', 13',

and our

our course

has been true easterly, notwithstanding the three or four semi-circular bends in the river

Although

s

run.

these geographical questions will be

all

presently settled, yet halting from pursuing the search

ought

further, I

taining

the

to state

opinion

my

that

reasons for

this

river

still

main-

must be the

Welle.

From Welle, line.

these rapids, the distance to Ingaima, on the

about

is

The

155

geographical miles in a direct

natives of

the Basoko admitted

Upper Aruwimi was portion of

The

it

Yankui it

;

another

we have

traced

it

Over the

rapids

we

calls it

hills,

is

called

is,

that

Meri or

by Miani, Ware

Bere'.

600 yards wide and 25

feet

deep



east across one degree of longitude. see that the hill-range

caused the interruption

the

but stated that only the

above the rapids.

It is a large river,

The

the river Biyerre

called the Biyerre, that

Welle' of Schweinfurth

and Werre'

east.

also,

call

runs north-west and south-

river has been deflected from

and must flow

which has

its

course by

fi'om a north-westerly direction.

IDENTITY OF THE BIYERRE AND WELLE.

Rounding the

south-easterly extremity,

That

west to the Congo.

up above these may well

there

are

that there are

we had

many more

;

it

runs direct

it

other

Le imag'ined

bends we have already passed make

131

;

rapids

the

^^^^•

Nov. 21.

Yamiuya.

great

quite possible

and a mere view, such

as

of this curve above the rapids trending north-

westerly, has but

But a glance

value.

little

at

the

large semi-circular bend between the confluence of the

Nekke with

the Welle, and the junction of the

and the Welle,

will serve to

Gurba

show that two inverse

bends would about connect the Welle, Bere, or Werre of Schweinfurth, Miani, and Junker with the river called Biyerre, vv^hich is

we have

just ascended.

The

Itimbiri

not large enougli to receive such a river as the is

figured on the

Biyerre's

great volume

Welle'

maps of

its

The

explorers.

must absorb,

only

the

Welle, but most probably the Nepoko of Junker.

At

this season the river feet

Biyerre discharges 150,000 cubic

of water per second into the Congo.

Now,

Dr. Barth describes the Shari, the liver which

many geographers thus

riot

insist

upon

as receiving the Welle,

: ^

" I found myself floating

was certainly GOO yards

on

this noble river,

across.

On

which

the western shore

the river sweeps slowly along, and, in general, appears

not to be very deep.

In ihe channel the poles of the

ferrymen indicated a depth of 15 If

we

^Qiiiy

suppose that this " noble " river, the Shari, to

be GOO yards wide, of an uniform depth of 15

feet,

and a current of two knots an hour, we only obtain

TEE CONGO.

132 1883.

G7,000 cubic feet of water per second, and this at a

Nov, 22.

hungu.

m

.,

.

Munza's on

tlie

T



point 810 geographical miles

As Munza's

Welle'.

place on the Welle which

is

miles in a direct line from

over

its

p

^•

a direct line from situated at a

is

200 geographical

source, then

we have

an Equatorial river with a course of nearly 2000 English miles, with only a volume of 67,000 cubic feet of

water per second.

hand, after only ICOO

Nyangwe There

The Congo, on the other

miles of a course, rolls

past

a volume of 230,000 cubic feet per second.

such an incomprehensibility in

is

my

I can only record

belief that, as

all this,

the

that

Bij'erre

is

geographical miles from the lowest point

only 155

known on

the Welle', and discharges such a volume

of water, the basin of the W^lle and the

Nepoko must

be included within the hydrograjohic area supplying the Biyerre with w^ater.

At

a

place just

returning

down

five

river, I

miles

made

below Yambuya, on

a series of measurements

of current velocity, and soundings.

The

central current

flowed at the rate of 1150 feet in five minutes; the greatest depth of water

was forty-two feet

;

the breadth

of river was 580 yards.

We

camped

at

Irungu and underwent the

tion of brotherhood.

From our new

scarifica-

brothers

we

re-

ceived the extraordinary information that the Biyerre after

turning to the north-west made another turn

southerly and joined the Congo.

must be the Nepoko

I pi-esume that this

affluent of the Biyerre'.

AtYakuijSO much had our

penceful passage up-river

NEWS OF THE ARABS.

133

impressed the people, that

we were

enabled to purchase

issa.

eight days

heard also sumcient at this

yakui.

provisions.

I

place to prove that there were

Arabs from the East

Coast on the Congo, but the locality was so vaguely designated that

news.

we

did not pay

When, however, they

ing to Mokulu

we

much

attention to the

learned that after return-

intended to visit the Congo in the

same manner, they manifested undisguised pleasure for

some reason.

to

" catch

by

us.

A

it

"

The Bahunga marauders were

they thought,

if

they were overtaken

before noon on the 23rd

little

short time

covered that

at our

camp

sure

opposite

we

halted for a

Mokulu.

We

dis-

the Biyerre' had fallen eighteen inches

during our absence.

down

to

point

dividing the

We

then continued our journey

the mouth, and,

miirhtier Cono-o.

two

rounding the low forest

rivers,

we steamed up

the

IM

THE CONGO.

CHAPTER XXX. TO STANLEY FALLS, Predatory Bahunga

— —

—An

odd means for defence Deserted villages Danger ahead Ravages by the Arabs " Cruel man has done his worst " Eemains of burnt villages shocking discovery We overtake the Arab slave-traders Meditations on retribution Extent of territory ravaged by the Arabs Their miserable captives A harrowing scene Captives all women and children their number The cause of the trade Yangambi— The Chofu river -The Wenya fishermen Cunning policy of the Arabs Stanley Falls Description of the cataracts— The district

Enormous



fiotilla of

canoes







— —









;







— — —Their mode of fishing—A dangerous ferry— Drum signals of the waters— Palavers —^Our An industrious people — The and appointed in farthest station founded —Binnie

tribes

fish

chief,

is

charge

We

1883.

S'

'

Iliyerre.

left

—Homeward bound.

luive

now, while breasting

tlie

swift ocbreous flood

a wider view of river rench, and a of the Coniro, o '

'

spacious breadtli of stream than

the banks of tbe Biyerre.

Congo revealed

itself

more

we enjoyed between

Denuded of

occasionally,

its

islets,

now with

the

a clear

view of two and a half miles of open water, broad enougli to absorb a dozen mighty tributaries as large as tlie Biyerre.

just

passetl,

12GC)

And

yet avc were, at the confluence

English miles from the

021 miles above L'Jopoldville,

sea,

and

FREDATORY BAIIUNGA. we

Faithful to our purpose

135

cling to the right bank,

i883.

Nov. 23,

which

low, but grand

is

trees nourished

by

the forest of massive

for

We

its fertile soil.

which was once a market-place. a change having

pass a clearing

It is not used

now,

come over the people of the

land.

There are rumours of predatory Bahunga floating throughout the surrounding

districts,

and suspicion He heavy on men's

We

and

distrust, fear,

souls.

have discovered that we ourselves are not above

We may

suspicion.

nappers

not be related to the fierce kid-

who roam about

midnight on

at

the wide

waters and pounce upon sleeping aborigines, but

wear

and we carry the dreadful hollow tubes

cloth,

which belch thunder and ruin

Mburra

the

fun

" !

— could

we

So think the

but

see

tubes spit

it,

it

is

equally matched with

keep pressing on nearer and nearer

o'clock

we

fall

to the

who

they

pass another market-place, and

think of camping, but the people

with the hawsers

at

were o:rand

kidnappers, in admirable bewilderment as to

may be. At four

fire

natives, while we, utterly igno-

rant what strange tribe this ourselves,

" Yes, go up

men.

to

when hollow

[the Congo]

another

one

w^e

who

spring on shore

down and show

bleeding

feet,

and we discover that the ground has been defended by pins of dried rattan stuck

all

over the surface, and

we

are obliged to steam on another hour until a suitable place in the thick forest has been found.

The next day

at

9

market-place, where, in

a.m.

we

pass

the well-known

1877, the vendors and buyers

Biyevrd.

THE CONGO.

130 1883.

left

Nov. 24. Biyerrd.

'"^

the profits and pleasures of marketing to attack

m

^

.,

impetuous

-

.

^

.

,

stjle, so little did

descending canoes contained

-

-

,

they expect that the

men whose

well tried in resisting such attacks.

souls

had been

All of us

who had

been present on that occasion rehearsed the scene and the events which almost each tree recalled.

An

hour

later

was passed,

a fourth market-place

from which the natives had been seen hastening away to

an island or islands near the

tance

was

so great,

and

humid heat obscured the

so

left

much

light, that

The

bank.

dis-

haziness from the

we

could not well

discern the outline of the opposite shore.

The land

rose in beautiful gentle hills, green with

the perpetual springtime,

on their river

where, but bluify there peeped out

and deeply wooded everyface.

Here

banana groves, belonging

hamlets occupying the limited clearings.

to

and tiny

These higher

lands belong no doubt to the bluff-browed banks near

Yambumba on

the Biyerre.

Looking across bears within of paddles

know islet

its

to the islands

which the Congo again

bosom we fancy we

see a

movement

as

— those bright mirror-like flashes of water we

so well on a calm day,

and languidly tracing the

shores upward, a half-formed suspicion creeps into

our minds that the shores themselves are widening. But,

examining the curious phenomenon through a

binocular, such a

number of canoes

create unpleasant thoughts of

gestions arise of conflicts

of running

down an

v^'ith

are seen that they

imminent

strife.

Sug-

the terrible Bahungu,

entire flotilla of canoes,

plunging

ENORMOUS FLOTILLA OF CANOES.

137

and sprawling madly about with marvellous rapidity

1683.

of action, while the sharp crack of breech-loaders sound

Biyerrd-

What else Our men are all

above the turmoil.

clear

encounter there

mean

?

a large

is

could such an conscious

of people in

force

hood, notwithstanding that

the neighbour-

bank appears

right

the

that

and uninhabited.

silent

We

cast

the

off

whale-boat,

En

and the

Avant

dashes on to obtain a clearer view of this immense

In ten minutes

flotilla.

we can

trace a

long and

thick column of ascending canoes, creeping along under

the shadows of the overhano-ins: woods of an island. It

may

be throe miles in length;

be more, but seen of

length dwarfs

its

it

all

I estimated the

flotillas.

about a thousand.

We

may be less, it may that we have ever

number of canoes

steamed slowly up, parallel

with the column, to the distance of a mile and a I

half.

presumed that they meditated an attack, and

became

in conjectures

lost

as

to

five to

came

to the attack

Discretion

We

us.

is

If there

I

a

were

each canoe that would give a

number of 5000 enough ;

of

result

the

determined charge of such a vast force.

an average of

at

to

overwhelm

us,

even

if

they

with naked hands.

wise in such circumstances as environed

had no quarrel with any people, not even

Bahunga, and our mission could not be Arguprefaced by seeking opportunities for warfare. with

the

ing thus the

En

Avant returned

picked up her boat, and the steam its

way.

to

her

flotilla

consorts,

held

on

THE CONGO.

138

At

1883.

Nov.

This was the usual

4.30 a rain-storm halted us.

24-.

Mawembc.

eudiDg

to

a hazj sultry day, and was generally

sucli

accompanied by vivid lightning, and loud thunder

We

shocks.

cosy

had a comfortable camp, however, on a

well protected from the tempest that endured

islet,

the whole night.

The next morning

Two

journey.

remembered

map

palisaded

my glass,

position

its

"

I could detect

there,

it

was

ness

was recognised.

also there,

poor remnants of

clearly.

On my

old

Mawembe," and was strongly I

looked closely through

no sign of palisade or hut.

was

village it

very

but now, though

;

was

clearing

we saw a break in the solid along which we had travelled, and

marked

is

it

we continued our

hours later

wall of forest trees I

25th)

(the

The

true, the site of the palisaded

and notwithstanding

its

empti-

As we advanced we could see banana groves we couLl also trace ;

the whitened paths from the river's edge leading

up

the steep bank, but not a house nor a living thing

could be seen anywhere.

and nature of the close,

Tlie exact extent, position,

village site

bristling palisade,

was unchanged, but the

and the cones of fowl-huts,

and the low ridge-roofed huts

just visible above

it



all

had vanished.

When we came that there

abreast of

had been a

tlie

late fire.

locality,

we

perceived

The heat had scorched

the foliage of the tallest trees, and their silver stems

had been browned by

meagre

;

their

tatters, as if

it.

The banana plants looked

ragged fronds waved mournfully their

imploring pity.

We

slackened the speed

TBACES OF RAPINE, of the engines, to contemplate the

139

and

scene

reflect

isss.

Nov. 25.

upon

its

meaning.

Mawcmbd

Six years before

we had rushed by

very place

this

without stopping, endeavouring by our haste the intentions of our foes



they meant to be

if foes

had been a

since which time the history of this land

blank to us.

thwart

to

Surely there had been a great change

As we moved up

the stream slowly, another singular

This was two or three long

sight attracted our gaze.

canoes standing on their ends, like

split

hollow columns,

What freak was Had one of signify ?

upright on the verge of the bank. this,

and what did the sight

these canoes been weighed,

have been

To have

than a ton.

less

certain

it is

it

tilted

could not

and

such a weight argued numbers and union.

never have been the work savages.

As

men

tacit revelation

and cohesion; they signify a

— and union

who have performed

It could

herd of chattering

of a

they stand, they are a

of the effect of energy

union of

raised

They

are Arabs

this feat of strength,

and these

is

force!

upright columnar canoes betray the advent of the slavetraders in the region

below the Falls

!

We

learned

now

desolate spot once stood the

few miles higher

up on the same bank we

later that

on

this

town of YombuiTi.

A

Cvame abreast of another scene of desolation, wliere a

whole town had been burnt, the palms cut down, bananas scorched, ground, and repeated.

the

many freak

acres

of

laid

level

with

the

standing canoes on end

In front of the black

ruin there were

a

THE CONGO.

140 1883 Nov. 25.

rombuni

couple

linndred

of

down on

crouched

people

the

^crgc of the bank, looking wofully foHorn und cheer-

some with

less,

their

hands supporting their chins,

regarding us with a stupid indifference, as though they w^ere heyond further harm, while say by their attitude, " Cruel

Having

lost all,

we

man

seemed to

all

has done his worst.

are beyond your spite, and greater

we are now in " you to harm us ?

wretchedness than that which

How

sible.

Our

can

it

profit

guide, Yumbila,

was

what was the cause of

man

told to question

is

impos-

them

as to

and one old

this dismal scene,

stood out and poured forth his tale of grief and

He

woe with an exceeding volubih'ty. and unexpected invasion of men,

leaping, yelling

with

told of a sudden

by a host of

their vihage,

in the

murderous

who dinned

darkness, fusilades,

slaughtering

their people as they sprang out of their

burning huts

their

ears

into the light of the flames.

had escaped

;

the larger

Not a

third of the

number of

children had been captured and taken

men

women and away, they knew the

not whither. "

And where

"

They

are these people

?

"

we

asked.

are gone up-river, about eight days ago."

"And

have these people burnt up

" All

everywhere, on both sides of

;

all

the villages?"

tlie

river."

"What

are they like, these strange people?"

"

are like your people in your boats, and wear

They

white clothes." "

day

Ah in

!

And who

are

all

those people

we saw

hundreds of canoes near the islands

" ?

yester-

BURNT "They other,

VILLAGES.

141

are our people, from our side and from the

who have gathered

niglit they

go

daytime they

together for protection.

to their fields to get food, Lut in the

on the islands, with their canoes

live

ready, lest the wicked and fierce people

But

go

Go

them

We

them.

go

away,

to

At

if

away

you

strangers

;

want ivory

have nothing

come back.

are

and

go

;

— nothing."

all

And

bad. fight

the old

man's gesture, with open palms, was painfully expressive.

We

continued on our journey, advancing as rapidly

as our steamers could breast the stream.

we came

or four miles

Every three

in sight of the black traces of

The charred

stakes, upright

canoes,

poles of once populous settlements, scorched

banana

the destroyers.

groves, and prostrate

palms,

all

betokened ruthless

ruin.

At 4

P.M.

we

the devastated

halted at a site

camp

of Yavunga.

in a plain just above

We

had passed,

since

leaving the Biyerre, twelve villages utterly consumed

by

In these eight separate communities had

fire.

existed.

Opposite Yavunga, on the of Yaporo.

left baidc, is

Surveying the scene through the bino-

we could assure ourselves man was not exaggerated.

cular o fflass

the old

the district

was

visible,

that

Yaporo had been populous.

that the tale of

Not one house

although the extensive clearing indicated This would have been

evident even had I not remembered, by the peculiar red clay banks, which

is

such a feature of

it,

that I

}^^h ^'^mi'"''"'-

THE CONGO.

142 18S3.

vomburri.

had seen a large and long-extended town here. above, I also remembered, we Jiad had a tough

who had

with the people, they charged on

lis,

fight

Ya Mariwa "

"

cried

Jnst

as

and there was the Tugarambusa

ridge, its outUnes not to be mistaken.

On

delayed by a scantiness of clearing, so that departure

A

7 o'clock. object, of a

En

November we

the morning of the 27th of

due

to the extent of the

was not

possible until after

fuel,

camp we detected some

mile above our

down

slaty colour, floating

Avant steamed towards

it,

stream.

over with a boat-hook.

The

and the man with the

sounding-pole at the bow, on arriving near it

Yv^ere

We were

it,

turned

shocked to discover

the bodies of two ^vomen bound together with cord!

This tragedy, by the appearance of the bodies, must

have occurred about twelve hours previously.

Wondering what could have caused the committal such a crime, the current

we

was

continued to follow the shore, wdiere to the

when looking up

above Yavunga.

is

river hastily,

we saw

fronting the landing-place of a village.

my

glass

group, as

upper end

At

hour we were rounding the point,

of an

close

came

slack, until w^e

of the crescent bend, which the

of

and examined

a white mass I

caught up

it.

Others appeared in a

we edged towards

the centre of the stream.

They were

tents

;

the Arabs of

Nyangwe had

been

overtaken

They were evidently village,

in force, for

was evidently largo enough

and a rough palisade seemed

to

their

camp, or

for a great

surround

number, it.

We

OVERTAKING THE ARABS. formed ourselves in

143

As

and advanced np-river.

line

isss.

Nov. 27.

we drew near

I

observed tbrougli the telescope that

our presence excited a commotion on

became lined

who

witli a

multitude of

acted as if flurried.

canoes fastened to

tlie

I also

tlie

men

banks,

wliicli

white dress

in

saw a large number of

landing-place,

whicb revealed

at

once tbe secret of thesa sudden midnight surprisals.

These people had in some manner descended the river

Nyangwe' past the

i'rom I

felt

conscious

Falls.

an internal

for a sbort period of

struggle against an impulse, which was almost over-

powering, to avenge these devastations and massacres

The

of sleeping people.

picture

of those houseless

but most

people

of Yomburri, the

tale of

the old man, the corpses of tbe

eloquent

bound together, which seemed deliberate

murder



all

The

appealed to

me for immediate who am I that I



And yet my hands and

?

— the

embers of the burnt houses are

thought that the captives were tears of these are this

still

its

cold, the blood

in

still

bondage; the

flowing, their sorrow

is

even yet

naked land, raided, and devastated in

this cruel fashion, of

emptied of

retri-

Then, again, came the

shed has long ago been dried.

And

mete out

devilish deeds are already accomplished

bution

fresh.

two women

to suggest a cold-blooded

and complete vengeance. should take the law into

pitiful

what

people

?

possible use

But

it

was

would

it

be

useless for

when

me

to

repeat to myself such forcible reasons for revenging these wholesale outrages. I

had not the

slightest

shadow

of authority to vindicate the dictates of justice.

I

vombuni.

THE CONGO.

144 1883.

represented no constituted government, nor had I

tlie

Nov. 27. v^omburii.

shadow of authority

hoped

and fraud

so

is

were

parties

has almost exterminated

appeared on the

gious

role

was

of censor, judge

my

friends, at

one party, being stronger, by force

;

without a commission

tragedies

assume the

Both

and executioner. least I

to

may

I

being

enacted

the effect of strife

but

other,

Had I these many

not interfere.

while

scene

the

one

— so

conta-

assisted the

weaker

might

I

— have

of

party.

After the usual discharge of blank cartridges from the

boats,

announcing

an

arrival,

from

the

shore,

sponsive salvoes

from the bank, and hailed us in

guage of the oriental

by

followed

re-

a canoe

put out

Swaliili,

the lan-

which we replied

coast, to

in

terms of peace.

We

formed a camp below them, and almost imme-

diately after

we had

secured our boats, our Zanzibaris

were shaking hands with the Manyema slaves of Abed bin Salim,

who had invaded and ravaged

to obtain slaves

We reality

and ivory

the country

for their master.

discovered that this horde of banditti



and without disguise they were nothing

was under

for in else

the leadership of several chiefs^ but prin-

cipally

under Karema and Kiburuga. They had started

sixteen

months previously from Wane-Kirundu, about

thirty miles below

Yinya Njara.

For eleven months

the band had been raiding successfully between the

Con"-o and the Lubiranzi, on

had then undertaken

to

the

left

bank.

They

perform the same cruel work

THE ARAB CAMP.

145

On

between the Biverre and Wane-Kirundu. at

my map

1

nnd

that such a territory

looking

witliin the YomiuirL

area described would cover superficially 1G,200 square

geographical miles on the

of which in

on the right bank,

all

would be equal

.'M,570

to

bank, and 10,500 miles

left

statute

square miles

square miles greater than the

island

mileage

—just

of

2000

Ireland

inhabited by about 1,000,000 people.

The band when 300

fifrhtinjr

set

it

out from Kirnndu numbered

men armed with

flint-locks,

double-barreled

percussion guns, and a few breech-loaders lowers, or doftiestic slaves

;

their fol-

and women, doubled

this

force.

After spending the morning listening to such their adventures as they chose to relate, I

mitted

in

the

afternoon to see the

they had gathered, as

many

of

gerated the numbers of the

my

human

of

was perharvest

people had exag-

captives they had

seen

in the camp.

Their quarters were about 150 yards above the plac3

we had

selected.

It

was surrounded with a fence made

of the hut w^alls of the native town ofYangambi, which lay without in ruins

;

tamped earth with a

where and

it

stood.

the square plats of raised and

few uprights alone indicating

The banana groves had been

their stalks

employed

to

levelled,

foim the fence around

about their camp.

Within the enclosure was a extending of the

many

lines

clay bank

Vol. II.— 10

series

of low sheds,

deep from the immediate edge

inland,

100 yards;

i883.

in length the

THE CONGO.

146 1883.

At

camp was about 300 yards.

landing-place

the

Nov. 27.

Yomburri.

below Were

Each might convey from 10

capacity.

The

much

varying in carrying

fifty-four large canoes,

to

100 people.

camp

general impressions are that the

first

is

There are rows

too densely peopled for comfort.

upon rows of dark nakedness, relieved here and there

by the white

There are

dresses of the captors.

naked forms upright, standing, or moving

groujos of

about

listlessly

sheds

in

all

naked bodies are stretched under

;

positions

;

naked children, many mere

moving groups by two

paying more attention to all

forms of

a drove of abso-

naked old women bending under a basket of

who

or cassava tubers, or bananas,

the

there are

;

infants,

boyhood and girlhood, and occasionally lutely

are fettered

;

tlie

naked legs innumerable are

seen in the perspective of prostrate sleepers countless

lines or

fuel,

are driven through

or three musketeers.

On

observe that mostly

details, I

youths with iron rings around their

necks, through wln'ch a chain, like one of our boat-

anchor

chains,

twenties.

securing

rove,

is

The children over ten

the

captives

by

by three

are secured

copper rings, each ringed leg brought together by the central

ring,

listlessness of

which accounts

movement

I

in presence of the curious

secured by

shorter

chains,

for

the

observed on

apparent

first

coming

The mothers

scene.

around

whom

their

are re-

spective progeny of infants are grouped, hiding the cruel their

iron

links tliat

mammas'

breasts.

captive amongst them.

fall

in

Tliere

loops or festoons is

over

not one adult man-

A n ARROWING SCENE.

147

Besides the shaded ground strewn over so thickly

by the

and

prostrate

the rehcs of the

up

T upright bodies of •

in profusion

many

1

everywhere, and there

square foot of ground

captives,

raids lie scattered or is

heaped

scarcely a

not littered with something,

such as drums, spears, swords, assegais, arrows, bows, knives, iron-ware of native

make

of every pattern,

paddles innumerable, scoops and balers,

wooden troughs,

ivory horns, whistles, buffalo and antelope-horns, ivory pestles,

wooden

fetishism, nets,

idols,

sorcerers'

beads of wood, berries, scraps of wardrobes, gourds

of

sizes,

all

from the lengthy seine to the small hand-net;

baskets, hampers, shields as large as doors (of wood, or

of plaited rattan), crockery, large pots to hold eight gallons,

down

to the child's basin

and mallets; grass

clotli in

wooden mugs,

;

hatchets,

hammers, iron

basins,

shreds, tatters, and pieces;

broken canoes, and others half excavated rods, &c., &c.

;

native adzes,

All these

lit-

tering the ground, or in stacks and heaps, with piles

of banana and cassava peelings, flour of cassava, and Sliced tubers

pictures

and

pioir. i.ently

drying, details,

make up through

a

all

number of untidy of which, however,

gleam the eyes of the captives,

in a state

of utter and supreme wretchedness. Little

perhaps as

my

face betrayed

my

feelings,

other pictures would crowd upon the imagination after realising the extent

;

and

and depth of the misery pre-

sented to me, I walked about as in a kind of dream,

wherein

I

iss.x

^ov. 27.





1

saw through the darkness of the night the

stealthy forms of the murderers creeping towards the

Yomijurr

THE CONGO.

148 1883:

Xov. 27. Touiburri.

doomed town,

its

inmates

asleep,

all

and no sounds

^ ^

^

hum

issuiDg froHi the glooiTi but the drowsy

ing cicadas or distant frogs

of chirp-

— when suddenly flash

light of brandished torches

;

the sleeping town

the

is in-

volved in flames, while volleys of musketry lay low

many

the frightened and astonished people, sending

through a short minute of agony to that soundless sleep from

which there

will be

be alone somewhere where

to

no waking. I

could

I wished

reflect

upon

doom which has overtaken Bandu, Yomburri,

the

Yangambi, Yaporo, Yakusu, Ukanga, Yakonde, Ituka, Yaryembi, Yaruche, populous Isangi, and probably thirty scores of other villages

The in

and towns.

slave-traders admit they

this fold, yet

have only 2300 captives

they have raided through the length

and breadth of a country larger than Ireland, bearing fire

and spreading carnage with lead and

banks of

tlie

river

show that 118

iron.

and

villages,

Both forty-

three districts have been devastated, out of which

is

only educed this scant profit of 2300 females and children,

and about 2000 tusks of ivory

!

The

swords, bows, and the quivers of arrows,

many lages

adults have fallen.

were peopled only

a profit

of 2

per cent.;

spears,

show that

Given that these 118 1)y

vil-

1000 each, we have only

and by the time

all

these

captives have been subjected to the accidents of the river voyage to

and

its

Kirundu and Nyangwe', of camp

life

harsh miseries, to the havoc of small-pox, and

the pests which miseries breed, there will only remain p.

scant

1

per cent, upon the bloody venture.

SLAVE TRADING.

They

tell

nie,

Ill)

however, that the convoys already

arrived at Nyangwe' with slaves captured in the interior

Five ex-

have been as great as their present Land. peditions have

come and gone with

their

booty of

ivory and slaves, and these five expeditions have

now

completely weeded the large territory described above.

been as

has

expedition

If each

as

successful

this,

the slave-traders have been

enabled to obtain 5000

women and

Nyangwe, Kirundu, and

children safe to

Yibondo, above the Stanley

an assumed million

be at the rate of a-half per

will

cent., or five slaves out of

This

is

poor

originally

10,000 in

profit,

1000 people.

out of such large waste of

we assume the slaves number. To obtain

the 118 villages, they

Thus 5000 out of

Falls.

must

to

life,

for

have mustered about

the 2300 slaves out of

liave shot a

of 2500 people, while 1300 more died

round number

by the wayside,

through scant provisions and the intensity of their

How many

hopeless wretchedness.

are

wounded and

die in the forest, or droop to death

through an over-

whelming

we do

but

if

sense of their calamities,

the above figures are trustworthy, then the out-

come from the 5000 lives

not know,

territory with its

million of souls

slaves, obtained at the cruel

And

!

children

such slaves

!

They

who cannot run away,

is

expense of 33,000

are females, or youngor

who with

youthful

indifference will soon forget the terrors of their cap-

ture

the

!

life

Yet each of the very smallest

infants has cost

of a fiuher and perhaps his three stout brothers

and three grown-up daughters.

An

entire family of

issx Yomburri.

THE CONGO.

150 1883.

Lave been done to death

six souls

to obtain that small,

Nor. 27,

yombuni. feeble, useless child

These are

my

!

thoughts as I look upon the horrible

Every second during which

scene.

clink of fetters

and chains

strikes

I

regard them the

upon

my

ears.

My

eyes ca'tch sight of that continual lifting of the hand to ease the neck in the collar, or as

it

displays a manacle

exposed through a muscle being irritated by or

want of

My

fitness.

its

weight,

nerves are offended with the

rancid effluvium of the unAvashed herds within

this

human kennel. The smell of other abominations annoy me in that vitiated atmosphere. For how could poor bound and riveted together by twenties, do

people,

otherwise than wallow in are

taken out to forage

tuber,

and search for

filth ;

Only the

!

old

women

they dig out the cassava

the banana, while the guard,

with musket ready, keenly Avatches for the coming of the vengeful native.

Not much food can be procured

manner, and what

in this

is

obtained

is

flung

down

in

a heap before each gang, to at once cause an imseemly scramble.

months

Many

of these poor things have been already

fettered in this

manner, and their bones stand

out in bold relief in the attenuated skin, which hangs

down

in thin wrinkles

And

and puckers.

yet,

who

can withstand the feeling of pity so powerfully pleaded for

by those large eyes and sunken cheeks ?

What was the human life, of all

cause of this

all

this

unspeakable misery

but the indulgence of an old Arab's starved,

and ravenous

vast

instincts."

*'

Ho

sacrifice ?

of

Nothing,

wolfish, bloody,

wished to ob-

THE CAUSE OF THE SLAVE TRADE. tain blaves to barter profitably

and having weapons

them

placed

lie

Arabs,

to other

and gunpowder

— enough,

hands of three hundred

in the

and despatched them as an

— guns

away

151

to conunit

slaves,

murder wholesale,

Enghsh nobleman would put guns

in the

of his guests, and permit them to slaughter the

upon

his estate.

to each person

we

If

who

find that this

human

gallons of

fell

drowned him and

now

hands

game

calculate three quarts of blood

during the campaign of murder,

one Arab caused to be shed 2850

blood, sufficient to

ment of 460 cubic

I

we

just

feet,

all his

understood

fill

quite large

a tank measure-

enough

to

have

kin

why

the Basoko of the Biyerre'

were so gleeful when they heard we were about to ascend the Congo.

Their talk about the Bahunga was that

of people bewildered

by the suddenness of the attack

upon them, who seized upon the

They hoped, of

them.

first

course, that

name

uttered to

we would mutually

destroy one another, and thus they would be relieved

from their

We

fears.

exchanged

gifts

We

stained confederates.

them

to

with Karema and his bloodalso

obtained guides from

speak for us to the people at the Falls, and

being in a hurry to leave such dreadful scenes,

we

departed next morning, the 28th, for the cataract.

Yangambi, which we slave-traders, at

the

parallel

foot

is

said

was occupied by the Arab

beautifully situated on a level terrace,

of the

Tugurambusa

ridge,

which runs

with the Congo for a length of eight miles.

The summits of

the ridiro, which are at an altitude of

isss.

Yombuni

THE CONGO.

152 1883.

perhaps two hundred feet above the river, appear to

Nor. 28.

.

Vangambi. offer

,

f,

a cliarming field for

European

rise,

they are overhung by verdant masses

The

of shrubbery.

left

bank opposite

level land, with far extended clearings for sugar cane,

cotton, rice, maize,

right bank above the ridge at a dry

and healthy

is

is ;

and

a

flat is

it

and

a land

millet.

The

a land for wheat, being

altitude.

A few miles above the ambusa are

The

and green, and where the

slopes are delightfully fresh

red bluffs

agriculturists.

red sandstone

Itukn, Yaruche,

cliffs

of Tugar-

and Yaryembi, or rather

were, for at this time mere relics of settlements were

And

ghown.

multitudes

yet

remember well

I

their

on the banks and in the canoe

worrying our

force in

rampant flotillas

1877 with the courage of yelping

Both banks were now empty of their peoples,

terriers.

they were abandoned to the silence of absolute solitude.

Soon

after

rounding the point of Yaryembi, we

view before us a straight twelve-mile reach.

On

the

right bank there are three abandoned settlements, and

on the

left

there are five, mere

empty

clearings.

The

river varies from 800 to 1600 yards wide, with a strong

but steady current.

from ten

open

The banks

to thirty feet high,

sites of

are nearly uniform,

woods alternating with

towns.

Yarukombe' on the right, and a similar town of the

same name on the

left,

stood once at the upper end of

the reach.

On 1 P.M.

the 30th of

November our

was along the right bank

course from 8 a.m. to in a channel caused

THE a II OF U by the large and I

remember

called Busariga,

which

have been occupied by a tribe of the

to

seen.

is

where the huts stood can

clearino;s

Even

scarcely

All the villages on the mainland have

found.

utterly destroyed,

powerful tribe to

At

island

Now, however, not one hut

Yakusu. tlie

fertile

153

IIIVEIL

been

not one native of a

is

the tale of the massacres.

tell

we

P.M.

2

and there

be

arrived

the twin-mouthed

at

river

Chofu, each channel having a breadth of about 200 yards, divided by an island

whose base

line

is

three

miles long.

My

guide,

states that

when

who

it

up the river marauding,

has been

navigable for about twenty-five miles,

is

a confluence of two branches

The

terrupted by rapids.

is

branch

left

seen, both is

called

in-

the

Lukebu

;

Wenya

procure their large canoes from this river in

exchange It

branch being the Lindi.

right

the

The

for heaps of cured fish.

rained abundantly on the evening of the 30th, but

about 8 A.M. on the 1st of December the skies cleared,

and we were enabled

We bank,

to continue

steamed up for about four miles along the right

when we

struck ncross the river to the

barely avoiding a small rnpid.

when we were

We as

our voynge.

We

the point nearest the Falls, to

this point,

up with

tlie

held on until noon,

to cling close to the left

the people with the sight of such a

it

bank,

abreast of a small island in X. Lat. 0° 30'.

were advised

below

left

we

detache

1

bank

as far

avoid frightening flotilla.

Arriving

the whale-boat, and sent

guide and one of

my

servants to speak

i883.

u^, jsanga.

THE CONGO.

154 1883. Dec. 1. Stanley

By tin's inetliod we succeeded in getting Wcnja fishermen, who sent down a few

to the natives. toucli of the

men

in

two canoes

to

speak to

An

us.

hour's conver-

sation ended with an invitation to us to approach

tlieir

village.

Steaming round the point, the lower rapids of the Falls

came

into view.

against the current.

We were unable to contend We therefore tied up alongside

of the left bank, two miles below the village, until

could

come

W^enya

an understanding with the assembled

to

chiefs respecting a settlement.

With cunning the Falls,

left

the

policy the Arabs in their descent of

Wenya

in undisturbed possession of

their islands.

Even

Tipper Tib to

Nyangwe from

Njara, they Falls.

we

made

since

1878, after the return of escorting

Falls,

to

Yinya

their approaches slowly towards the

Thus they had obtained access

between the

me

to a large island

from which, by dint of the exhibition

of power coupled with an affectation of leniency

even friendship

— towards

who were

those

willing to

submit to their impositions, they had succeeded in at last

securing the co-operation of the

By

this

the

Upper

fishermen.

means they could descend from Nyangwe' Falls,

the hands of the

land to

Wenya

Asama

and surrendering

Baswa

tribe^

Creek, while

their

to

canoes into

they could march overtlie

Baswa

fishermen,

through their intimate knowledge of the channels, floated the canoes safely

down.

the Arabs descended from the

while tho

Wane Rukura

fifth

Thence embarkitig, cataract to the sixth,

fishermen floated the canoes

WENYA FISHERMEN. past

safely safely

their

embark

Here the Arabs

cataract.

nilg'ht

the seventh cataract of the Stanley

for

whereat the

Falls,

Iij5

Wenya

fishermen stood ready to

navigate them safely through the channels to the head of the navigation

On

leading to the Stanley Pool.

their return with their forcibly acquired booty, a

which they were glad

slaves

pay the Wenya,

to

few

be rid of sufficed to

Wane Rukurn, and Baswa

their trouble of passing their flotilla

up

tribes

for

in safety to

the quiet river leading to Nyangwe'.

Stanley

Falls

consists

seven distinct cataracts

of

extended along a curving stretch of

fifty-six

statute

miles in length.

At N.

Lat. 0° 28' 30", E. Long. 25° 24',

seventh cataract, which, with

its

rupts navigation for two miles. is

we

find the

smaller rapids, inter-

Above

this fall there

a navigable stretch of twenty-six miles, wdience the

sixth cataract left side,

certain

difficulties

From two

This latter cataract, on the

it

gentle

but

partakes of the character of rapids, which

times of the year would

offer

few more

that vigorous rowing would not surmount.

the sixth to the fifth cataract

mile

current.

is

another twenty-

of easily navigable water with

stretch

cataracts,

first

reached.

presents an absolutely impassable fall;

on the right at

is

The are

fifth,

so

fourth, third, second,

close

together that

we

a

and only

reckon them by the number of distinct waterfalls.

Nine

miles'

ihem

all.

the

Baswa

journey

overland will enable us to pass

But judging from the number of times that tribe

have passed Arab canoe

flotillas

do\vu-

i883. Dec. 1.

Stanley

THE CONGO.

156 1883.

wards and upwards ^

in safety,

t>ec. 1.

Stanley

evident that there

is

it

,

.

^-i'^

,

.

on the right bank which render the

channels

They

passage feasible and even free of danger. likely to be of the nature of Nile rapids side

but on the extreme

;

the

left

are

on the right are

cataracts

de-

cidedly impassable.

At

the seventh cataract there are

four channels.

Beginning from the right bank there

is

a fordable

channel about thirty yards wide, which, at low water, is

the leakage between a ridge of loose rocks forming

a dam-like barrier at the upper end. for three miles

The channel runs

between the right bank inhabited by the

Bakumu, and an

by the

island occupied

Wenya

tribe

called

Wane' Rusari, or sons of Rusari.

Beyond the

island,

which

is

is

a quarter of a mile broad,

right branch of the

separated from the main

which

is

wide,

by a rocky

the

foot

rocky the

cataract, about

of the

isle

inhabited

500 yards wide, branch, 300 yards

occupying the centre.

islet

main

of the

falls

left

the main

by the

Wenya, separated from

left

Below

channel

Wane Mikunga

is

a

tribe of

the mainland on the

left

bank by a rough channel about twenty yards wide.

From

the right to the

left

bank

width, across islands and water,

Between the two inhabited

Wane Mikunga,

the

at the cataract the is

islands,

about 1330 yards.

Wane

Rusari and

two main channels unite their

waters, and rush with inconceivable rapidity through a

narrowed channel of perhaps 450 yards,

to be diffused

below over low reefs and rocky hollows covering a breadth of 1200 vards.

Two

miles below the island

i

I

ill!;;

''i'^i''i'^i''i'''i''i'''''^''i''i*''''ii'i»^

iil

I

CURIOUS METHOD OF FISHING. of

Wane Mikimga

shoals

and

little

navigation

rapids.

On

is

157

interrupted by rock

may

the right navigation

Wane

and the mainland

up the main

river to a point nearly opposite

tlie

lov/er

Rusari

end of Wane'

Mikunga.

About a thousand yards above the by the

the islands occupied

tribe of

cataract begins

Wane

Sironga,

commanded by the chiefs Lumami and Yanzi. The three tribes number about 4000 people on the

isle

Wane

of

Rusari

;

1000

at

— 1500

Wane Mikunga

;

and 1500 on the islands of Wane Sironga. At the present time they are rapidly on the increase, receiving accessions to their

numbers from the persecuted Yakusu.

These people are

Tlie

two

at the Falls.

At

devoted to fishing.

all

main channels are almost bridged

very low water they plant poles between the rocks,

and by lashing cross rights, they

poles,

With

which the

their baskets into

day these are little

and propping up the up-

have secured access towards the centre

of the raging waters.

visited

cables of rattan they lash fish are

swept, and each

is

reached in

large broad

canoes cut out of the cottonwood from below.

an exciting sight

The

by the daring fishermen.

island in the centre

It is

to see forty stout fellows paddle

one

of these through the waves, heedless of the boiling and

They advance along

dangerous waters.

the left bank,

and then by desperate strokes they edge diagonally across level

the

stream

;

the

with their heads.

water above the

Thev miss

fall

Stanley Falls

be continued either up the creek between for a mile higher, or

i'<«-'5.

being

the island as often

THE CONGO.

158 1883. Dec. 1.

Stanley

as they reach

it.

If they are unsuccessful, they are

swept dowH the uuited channel, which

is

a stretch of

roaring water, at " express " speed, to try again the

dangerous course. But

if

they can only succeed in hold-

ing their own, by dint of united straining and tearing at the water, they will touch the lee of the island,

them

a few more rapid strokes will bring

and

If the nets are

to their nets.

full,

send up a loud wailing shout, which the people on the to

isles,

the

to the shore

the fishermen

gladly echoed by

is

who have gathered

watch the daring venture.

and

eacli

day

Disasters are frequent

most common being when the canoe has been

badly steered, and presenting too current,

it

is

soon capsized

among

The people

whose

rolling waves. tlieir

much beam

relatives,

for

the

to

the leaping and profit

they labour,

and their comrades, who have been

regarding them from the rocks then with united voices

warn

all

the

isles

with the news of

tlie disaster,

dozens of canoes shoot from either side to the

They think nothing of The

feat is

From

a

little

to

Wane

performed every few minutes by

men, women, and children. seen.

re.scue.

crossing the raging waters

between the islands from Wane' Mikunga Rusari.

and

Such a ferry was never

distance off the river, so rapid

is

the movement, so steep the slope, that one might say that the voyagers

were skating down an ice-covered

hill.

The

islanders

have not yet adopted

electric signals,

but possess, however, a system of communication quite as effective.

Tlieir

huge drums, by being struck

in

A DANGEItOUB different parts,

convey language as clear

as vocal speech

them

159

FEllRY.

and

;

all

the isles

to the initiated

soul on

and every

what transpires on each island hourly. In appearance the AVenya, Yakusu, and Baknmu is

told

bear a strong resemblance to the Basoko, though the

Bakunni are

slightly lighter in complexion.

The Wenya do not

wealth consists solely of daily catch

may

Their

the ground.

cultivate

Perhaps the average

fish.

be a thousand of from five pounds to

by

half a cwt. in weight, not including the spoils taken the

little

boys in the smaller channels, and at

cant rapids below.

meat, and what vegetables, the fish

is

Besides what

is

bartered with the

Wenya have

insignifi-

consumed daily

Bakumu

as

for their

large stores of smoke-cured

with which they purchase women, child slaves,

canoes, and

weapons from the Yakusu and the

tribes

of the Chofu.

These

fisher

tribes

are,

of

course,

impregnably

situated so far as regards their security against the hostility

of their

neighbours.

Bakumu

quiet river below, or the section,

of the sides

The Yakusu of the of the mid-cataract

would shrink from venturing near the

Wenya, protected

as

isles

they are on almost

all

by the surrounding dangerous waters.

They

are an industrious and an inventive people. In

the streets of their villages the fish curers attend their lines of curing-platforms;

purse nets and sieves

basket-work

women

;

;

the old

the

wdiile others

men

able-bodied

are

weaving

men

weave rattan hawsers.

are preparing bread, grinding

camwood,

are

at

The sifting

i883.

Stanley

160 1S83. Dec. 1.

Stanley

THE CONGO.

.

pounding corn, or making crockery.

meal,

On

the

,

watcrside are

binding a

split

bow, a

split stern, or a

leaky crack,

and preparing

or perhaps cutting out a decayed part

a piece of plank to replace

odd jobs

doing

canoe-wrights

the

it.

These are the people with

whom we

proposed to

negotiate for partnership in the proprietory rights over

the mainland and the

With

isles

of the seventh cataract.

the Arabs for our friends,

would be no

was

clear

there

Arabs and

abori-

it

dissentients, since both

Our settlement

gines perceived possible benefits.

at

the Falls would enable the half-castes of Nyangwe' to obtain cloth to wear at a

could obtain

it

rate than they

from the East Coast, and the same might

be said of various

trifles,

such as knives, powder, beads,

broadcloth, cottons,

wire,

much cheaper

tools,

thread and needles.

Medicines might be j)urchased from our establishment at the Falls; while the native chiefs might,

by monthly

subsidies of cloth, receive considerable additions to their

hard-earned wealth, and the tribe

much more

itself

be rendered

presentable as cloth-wearing people than

they are in their unqualified nudity.

On

the 2nd

we

cut a path along the right

bank

through the jungle, and crossed over to the island of

Wane Mikunga.

The

chiefs of the tribes

were

all

They

according to a notice which had been given. first

of

all

gave

Silurus, catfish,

the of

pile

the

there

us

a

large

present

and a species of the

was the well-known

Tanganika,

and

scale

fish

of

bearded

jDike.

scaleless

of

the

met

Among Singa size

of

A VIOLENT CONFERENCE. mackerel, wliicli ,

we found

161

wholesome

to be afterwards

,

and sweet.

^^^^^

Our palaver was live in peace

we asked

to

them and build a town, and

to

In

opened.

tlien

be allowed to stay with

brief,

with them as their friends and protectors.

This exposition of our purpose elicited a lively response.

A

speaker stood up, and listening- to the words in

short

sentences

from our guides, he seemed

be

to

mechanically repeating them, while the others maintained

when

a profound

until

silence

at once a furious

all

speaker ended,

the

upon one

gesture,

and

another,

so

violent

and voluble

so rapid

One

hubbub commenced.

might have imagined they were about selves

in

to fling

them-

were they

in

This

speech.

fury subsiding, one after another got up and expounded his

views on the matter.

the point, they

who

If he spoke well and to

considered his words pertinent

and sensible got up and arranged his grass-cloth that covered his rear parts forth a torrent of

;

those

who

dissented poured

what we supposed were

vituperations.

This continued until they exhausted themselves,

when

the palaver was adjourned until the next day at the

same hour. Late in the day a messenger from the guide came to

inform

me

that

would be arrived

it

was very

at the

likely an

agreement

next day, and that

I

might

They

prepare the goods and have them ready.

con-

sisted of beads, knives, mirrors, cloth, wire, &c.

On

the 3rd there were some

more

violent language

and furious colloquial torrents, which gradually subsided into decent and tranquil manners. A^OL.

is83. Dec. 2.

II.— 11

A

price

was

^'"'^""g''^-

THE CONGO.

162

1883.

agreed upon, by whicli

^^^^'

the left mainland

^"^"'-

full lordship

over the

isles

and

was ceded, with proprietory rights

to all unoccupied territory.

As

property belonging to the

tribe,

the lands were

common

over £160 worth of

goods were placed upon the ground to be distributed

by the

chiefs themselves, according to

which

I

rank and power,

many

need not say occasioned

bursts of

wordy

violence.

Meantime,

had

in the intervals of these palavers, I

explored, in the whale-boat, both shores, and rested on the isle of

Wane

was guided

determination by

to

fertility of soil,

this

my

choice

Rusari for the station. its

I

extent, its

and the convenience of the access to

the right bank, whence provisions could be obtained.

We

proceeded to mark out a

site

at the lower

end

of the island, which was covered with a dense bush,

wherein, while

we

cleared,

At

former inhabitants.

we

discovered relics of

the upper end, at the distance

of 1200 yards from the station, were the villages of the tribe, wherein

we had experienced

a slight struggle

in 1877.

Although we had completed the

Wcnya

in a far

more

could have predicted,

it

all

successful

behoved us

negotiations with

way than any one to

provide for the

sustenance of the station, and our guide, accompanied

by a few of our own men, was sent

hearing how happy the

chief of the

Bakumu,

Wenya had

been made by the

vanced from the tliirty

wdio,

to Siwa-Siwa, the

wliite

strangers, ad-

interior, a distance of five miles,

natives, each

with

weighted with cassava, bananas,

STILL HAVEN.

163

THE CONGO.

164 1883.

Dec.2tolO.

Wane

yams, sweet potatoes, and pumpkins, besides which

",,.„, ^hc

Rusan. -j^^^^

,

womcn,

chieis

at

,.

,,

the

neglected to provide

^^^^

c



J^^

i

suggestion or the guide, the

for

of

necessities

the whites, and liad brought eggs and fowls, while a small flock of goats was transported to our

new

island

home.

Between Siwa-Siwa and myself be love at it

Which

first sight.

would be

so

probably this procity on

of us

was most

said to effusive

His sunny brown face was

difficult to say.

aglow with

might be

it

much candour and boyish delight, that caused a warm and spontaneous reci-

my

part.

I

admired greatly the loving

which

women

possessive

manner

and cooed

their sweetest into each of

in

his

surrounded me,

my

ears,

without

exciting in the least Siwa-Siwa's jealousy, or alarming

Agreements with Siwa-Siwa

his susceptibilities.

quired no casuistry to urge his signature.

had

him everything, and was present

told

judgment in

my

evil,

be

if

he hesitated.

honour that

but

my

my

The Wenya to guide his

Siwa-Siwa confided solely

coming among them boded no

"Your

who knows what good?

people shall

children," said he, "in your absence. It will

safety.

return I

shall

be

my

re-

Go

task to feed them, and until

dream every night of you."

in

you

Good

Fortune certainly seemed to have prepared for

me

pleasant places in the wilderness

There only remained one more duty, and that seemed for a

time the most

for the person to take

difficult, viz.,

whom

I

selecting a substitute

had conveyed

charge of the station, only

to

to Stanley Falls

hear him at the

THE CHIEF OF STANLEY FALLS. Jast,

pleadinG: ^ earnestly to be returned ^ .

There only remained three engineers

and a German

who

acted

Binnie, a height,



A. I. A. steam-launch.

the

Scotchman, about 5

little

begged

me

to

inches in

feet 3

very slight

to be appointed, but his

appearance caused ing that

—two Scotchmen

and an English man-of-war's man,

skipper of

as

the coast.

to

*^

.

1G5

However, argu-

be anxious.

a man, after arriving in mid-Africa and

if

bearing the fatigues of the journey,

enamoured

so

is

of a residence iherc that he volunteers to remain,

appeared to

me

to be evidence that he

it

was possessed of

a superior and firm soul that would carry him through

any physical weakness, and Binnie, the engineer of the Royal, was accordingly appointed chief of Stanley Falls Station

We

jt^ro tern.

cleared about four acres of

ground

for him, con-

him with

structed a dwelling-place for him, furnished tools,

axes, hoes,

hammers and

of wheat flour, meats,

visions

nails,

gave him pro-

coffee,

chocolate,

tea,

sugar, milk, soups, jam, butter, potatoes, bacon, lard, sauce,

tapioca,

vinegar,

brandy,

and

candles,

and

stocked his goods store with cloth of various kinds,

beads of wristlets

many

colours,

nnd anklets,

tin

cowries, plates

Leaving with him thirty-one labourers

rings,

and mugs and pans.

armed

men



soldier-

— and a plentiful reserve of ammunition,

abundance of sage advice his

wire,

brass

to

with

be prudent and just in

government, amiable and patient in his intercourse,

trustful

and courageous, we committed him

to the care

of Providence, and on the 10th of December

we turned

i883,

Dec.2tol0. w.ine

THE CONGO.

166 1883;

Dec.2tol0.

Wan^

our faces homeward, leaving the .

,

.

.,

.

man

little

alone

all

.,.,.

With his grave responsibihties.

Rusari.

^^

j^^^

^y^^^

readied the utmost bourne of the

day

expedition, only one

than the date I had

later

Further progress

given to the Comite at Brussels.

before consolidation and incorporation of the

What was

the Association would be unwise.

now was

work

of

required

to turn our attention to obtaining the Pro-

tectorship of the districts intervening between station

and

station, so that

and

uninterrupted

we might become consecutive

masters of one

territory

from Yivi

now that we had sown seeds every place we had touched, and eacli

Station to the Falls, which,

of goodwill at tribe

would spread

diffusively the report of the

beauty

would be an easy task

and value of our labours,

it

an intelligent and patient

officer like

for

Captain Hanssens,

Pure benevolence contains

for instance, to perform.

within itself grateful virtues.

Over natural

peoples,

nothing has greater charm or such expansible power.

grows without

Its influence itself

of

upon

Coming

it.

there

all

is

who come

effort

;

its

subtlety exercises

within reach of the hearing

in such innocent guise,

naught in

it

it

offends not

to provoke resentment.

Pro-

vided patience and good temper guided the chief of Stanley Falls Station, by the period of the return of the steamers the influence of the seedling just planted there will have been inland,

by the Wane Rukura up

Upper

Falls,

by the Yakusu

their fruits, to

Bakumu

extended by the

exchange

to the

Baswa

visiting the

for fish,

far

at the

Wenya

with

up the Chofu, and

PATIENCE AND GOOD TEMPER. alone* their

own

river borders ravaored ^

^ hearing of the persecuted famih'es on the ^

Basoko would then hear of

^

it,

down

167 to

islands.

The

and regret that such

with them, to grow up

left

amongst them, and

overshadow them with

benign shade.

^^83D(H,-.2tol(

a seedling had not been to

tlie

^

its

Wan^

THE CONGO.

168

CHAPTER XXXI. DOWN" TDE COXGO TO STANLEY POOL. the stream —The Arabs send their confidential men with us —Navigability of the Lumami and Liibilash—Wreck of the Boyal— Beaching and repairing the wreck — Cold winds on the river — Iboko — in confusion —Impudent thieving— A prisoner " Fast bind, — — Cordiality at Eefusal ransom find"— A horrified fother of a

Going

witli

fast

in a passion — More prisoners — Restitution —Freeing the prisoners —^A horrible massacre Glave of Yorkshire— Bolobo station again burnt — News missionaries— Again at Lcopoldville — Troublesome news

Ukumira — Mata Bwyki of our stolen property

—Young from the from Yivi. 1883.

Yakonde.

Being borne down by the current of the tawny ^^^^

Congo

assisted

by steam was naturally much more

exhilarating- tlian laboriously breasting

we were who had moved their

noon on the Arabs,

flood of

lOtli

and stockaded on the

left

in

it.

A little after

camp again with

quarters,

the

and were hutted

bank, on the

site

of ruined

Yakonde.

For reasons of chiefs to send fidential

what

polity I set

about persuading the

with us to the coast a few of their con-

men, that they might witness

influences were advancing

up the

for themselves

river on

whose

banks they had created such widespread havoc. appeared to

me

the best

mode of suggesting

It

to them.

AEAB RECOLLECTIONS.

many

rather than saying so in

battues, than to risk

police

words, that

would be

it

from committing these sanguinary

wiser to abstain

a

1G9

meeting some day a gunboat with

on board, wlio probably might deal

force

summarily with such a slave-raiding band as we had

Meantime

found housed so openly on the river banks.

they could send s^^ecimens of their ivory, and obtain a few necessaries of which, perhaps, they were in need.

They accepted the

and they accordingly sent

proposal,

ten of their confidential slaves with three tusks each. It

was exceedingly inconvenient, naturally, while en-

gaged

in the

conveyance of

men and

stores,

and plant

ing stations along the river, to engage carrying passengers;

still

I

regarded

by no means the

On river

;

it

as part of the mission,

least useful portion of

it.

we continued on our voyage down

the 12th

the Arabs on board could

tell

us incidents in

connection with each of the ruined villages as past.

came

l^assengers

mouth of

the

had been up

devastated the miles

we

Yaporo was soon passed, and an hour to the

higher

and

u^^

later

river,

and had

each side.

we Our

afQuent Lubiranzi.

this

country on

glided

utterly

Twenty-five

rapids are met, but above

these a

few miles the Luraami and the Lubilash meet, both being navigable for hundreds of miles.

town of Isangi, situated confluence, the natives

at

the

had begun

left

At

the large

corner of

the

to build again, but

on our appearance they scrambled and hurried away in quick flight across the river, forming a flotilla with

which the Congo might have been bridged

easily.

i883.

isangi.

THE CONGO.

170'

Probably 1 2,000 natives were

were very

large, containing about a

The mouth

of the Lubiranzi

wide, showing that

On

we

the 13th

Bahunga,

afloat, as

it

ranks in

some of the canoes

hundred people.

was about 800 yards

size

with the Biyerre.

passed by the warrior tribe of the

in tlie district of

Bunga, and four hours

spoke with the Barumbu.

later

These are situate on the

highlands nearly opposite the mouth of the Biyerre.

We

left

a promise that the next time

the steamers

should ascend they would be visited and treated with,

and camped

Bahamba the

Arab

On

evening below Bungungu among the

at

tribe.

raiders

the 14th

This was the ultimate point which

had reached.

my arm

was

scarified at Iruba, a short

time later at Mbungu, and at noon at the

ment

new

settle-

of Yalulima, after stopping an hour at each place

in order that our presence on their waters might be

understood.

On Ikassa,

we had arrived at the place above whence we crossed over to the right bank in

the 15tli

the ascent.

Having

traced the

left

down to Ikassa, and in our mainder, we now stretched across

Falls

bank from Stanley

ascent traced the re-

the river to continue

the exploration of the right bank.

In doing so the

steam-launch Royal was steered too near the upper extremity of an island, and, striking a snag, sank

immediately to her gunwale.

The other boats rushed

to the rescue to unload her of her passengers

and the

cargo of ivory belonging to our Arab guests;

and,

examining her condition, we perceived that she was

WRECK OF THE

We

upborne by the snag.

and

let lier

ROYAL.

171

were obliged to camp,

remain there until mornino;. c5

After eight hours' work on the 16th chipping off the snag

;

and,

\ UpOtO.

tt

we

succeeded in

ramming canvas

we

foot-wide rent in her hull,

floated the

into the

Royal on to

a bank, and afterwards hauled her up on the dry land,

and turned her

over.

by eighteen inches

in

A

space three feet in length

width was sawn out, as

hopelessly fractured, and

we commenced Our

bales.

it

was

to rebuild her

out of the remnants of dunnage, on which

accustomed to lay our cloth

we were

tools consisted

of a saw, two gimlets, a brace and bits, a hatchet, a

and two dozen screws.

rasp,

By

the evening of the

19th the repairs were completed, the boat was again launched,

engines were

the

and

fixed,

the

loads

replaced ready for the morrow's departure.

The Congo, ever

since our start

up the Biyerre on

the 17th, had been steadily falling, and as the Royal

was a deep

boat,

drawing three

feet six inches water,

we found the exploitation was not very easy whenever we left the main channels. At II A.M. we were skirting the hills of Upoto.

We

halted

here

purchase

to

provisions,

to

make

brotherhood with Lubungu and Ibanza or Minyoto,

and make a

A

treaty.

beautiful

piece

commanding a magnificent view was Representatives

from

Ukele,

of ground

also purchased.

Umangi, Mpissa, and

Iringi appeared also, and, being neighbours of Upoto,

we concluded

On

treaties

the 23rd

with them.

we passed

i883.

the river of TJbika, wdience

TEE CONGO.

172 1883.

issued

men who had overrun so much of the As the main force of the flood sheered left bank in this locality, we could only

wild

tlie

Dec. 23.

Upoto.

bank.

left

towards the

occasionally follow the right bank.

met

our rapid descent by steam and

in

This was the

prostrated us.

first

The

Cf>ld

winds

witli the current

time I had suffered

the slightest indisposition for months, because

while

we had been retiring before the In coming down fjom Stanley Falls as far as

ascending the river wind.

we were proceeding towards the wind-current. When we finally began

Upoto,

along the south-westerly

to

descend

— the force of the cur-

between two and three knots, blowing up from

rent,

sea

stretcli

flank of the

— the

six-knot speed of the steamers, increased the

force of the

knots,

wind which we had

which

at once

checked the insensible perspira-

and deranged the system.

tion,

coloured

man

fell

to face to about nine

victims to the

of this peculiar change.

Two first

whites and a

day's experience

Glass windows, which would

have served as a protection against the wind, and enabled us to pilot the steamers, would have saved us

many On

a day's illness.

the

24tli

we

passed by other villages of the

Wabika, who have been in their turn harried by the Bangala. lines

It

has taught them to build their village

along small tributaries of the Congo, the mouths

of which can be blocked, and insignificant points to the foe,

inland

when

expeditions.

by which they present

and secure

safe retreats

the Bangala are on one of their raiding

IMPUDENT THIEVING.

we soon " by Liiseiifi'o, " sight of the territory of Iboko.

afterwards came in

Passin";'

'

*'

Day found

Christmas

iis

halted at central Iboko, at

Kokoro, his son, was

severe ulcer in the village

and

The

Mala Bwyki.

ancient of the Bangala was absent at

bank.

Bukumbi on

suffering

the

from a

Boleko was removing his

foot.

his belongings in order to

occupy a new

lower end of Iboko.

Mbembe', the

clearing at the

second son, had departed on a trading tour to Langa-

Lan^a.

Njugu, the favourite nephew, had

children in one day

lost

four

by drowning, and was therefore

seeking forgetfulness of his sorrows in the beer-pot.

The

''cats

being awav, the mice began to play."

Thieving became rampant

were ripe in

for mischief

great numbers,

;

;

the "

unwashed

" of

Iboko

and they gathered on the bank

affecting

the brother of their " Lord of

much joy at beholding Many Gruns." But the

strong under-current of motives in pressing so warmly

by the

forward presently disclosed

itself

of " unconsidered trifles,"

A boat

opera-glass, a cap, a

the strangest

bag of

manner a

clothes,

sly abstraction

rowlock, a spear, an

an umbrella, and

in

tin-box, belonging to one of

who was always the most unsuspecting of individuals, and who required to be prompted on every the whites

occasion not to put too large a faith in affected friendships.

As

continual reports of theft

,}^^'i: Dec. 2o. iboko.

the landing-place of the old chief

left

\T6

by people who would

naturally steal so long as they were tempted by other people's gross negligence of their ow^n properties were

THE CONGO.

174 1883.

very irritating, our people received warning that the

iboko.

first

who brought news of a theft would be punished, and he who first caught a thief would be rewarded. For the result of this we had not long to wait a man :

was caught

and a dozen willing hands

in the act,

laid

The Bangala, however, rushed to the and seized him also, and would have succeeded

hold of him. rescue,

in wresting

up

him from

had

I

not hurried

to lend assistance.

We **

on board

bound him securely on the

principle

Orders were then given to

fast bind, fast find."

make

An

away

in triumj^h

carried our prisoner

the steamer, and

of

his captors

steam.

hour passed without further alarm.

man was caught

in the act of abstracting a boat flag,

with the intention doubtless of wearing loins.

Such an indignity

was not

to be permitted,

made on the

Then a

it

about his

to the golden-starred flag

and an impetuous rush was

prisoner, but he

by superhuman exertions

escaped.

Kokoro, hearing of of his father's subjects,

up and down the

all

these disgraceful proceedings

came

in a canoe,

and was paddled

river-side, threatening dire

vengeance

a loud, hoarse voice upon the thieves, but no one

in

j)ai(l

me

the slightest heed to him, seeing which he advised

to be

them.

on the

He

alert,

and catch every rogue among

advanced alongside of the steamer,

to look at

our prisoner, and was horrified to find that he was his

own son His stoicism was that of the slayer of the Tarquins.

A HOBRIFIED FATHER.

175

words would not

lie essayed to speak, but the

issue,

In a moment of rage he had condemned unwittingly his ov/n son.

Poor Kokoro

He

emotions were caused by. heir of Iboko, lands.

It

I

!

saw too well what

his

thought of his son, the

being a slave conveyed to unknown

was on the

tip

of

my

tongue

to order his

release to relieve the poor fellow's agony, but I desisted,

knowing the African too " Kokoro, if this

is

well.

However,

your son I

I said

shall obtain

:

my

pro-

perty back, and your boy will be returned safe into

your hands."

He went away his lips,

with head bent

and never spoke a

what he should say

island opposite.

finger

to the mother.

prisoner on board, Iboko

and we steamed across

for us,

to

the

Thither Njngu came, prompted by his

cousin Kokoro, to negotiate for his son's release. offered

on

w^ord, thinking perhaps of

With such an important was no place

down and

two tusks of ivory and two slaves

if

He

we would

free him.

" Not for twenty slaves, and twenty tusks of ivor3\

What do you mean by making blood-brotherhood with me and my people and then robbing us. To steal is to make war. War is met with war. Do you forget the Ibanza, who years ago Look

here,

you Njugu

!

descended by your town

?

Have you

quite forgotten

your trouble with Irebu, caused by the thieving of the

Bangala

?

Go back and

river to the Bakuti,

On

and

tell

Kokoro

I will

I

am

going down

take his son with me.

the tenth day I shall return, wdien I shall expect

i883. Dec. 25.

^^^^^

THE CONGO.

176 1883.

my

Uianga.

property back, and Kokoro will get bis boy safe '

Dec. 28.

,

^

Soon

ogain."

after

we continued our journey down

river.

On tlie 28tb, witb many we passed by tbe populous Ubengo, and

4

at

troubles from sand bars,

and

a

narrow cliannel

into

view early next

entered

p.m.

of Usimbi

districts

leading to Ukumira.

This

last

community came

Ukumira seemed

morning.

one body to greet

to liave projected itself in

It consists of

us.

twelve villages,

The

extending along a ten-mile length of river bank. land

is

very low but densely wooded, and the islands

opposite are remarkable for the apparent impenetrability

of their bush.

A few miles below Ukumira is the well-peopled distiict of Bungata, extended in a long line along the right

bank.

From

Congo

strikes obliquely across

to

of

its

upper end a spacious channel of the

be deflected along

Uranga

Congo.

it

left

bank,

bluff

banks

towards ihe

by the dry airy

Lukungu and we appear than Uranga

at the confluence of the

No

poured forth

sooner did its

multitudes,

who showed

the also

effusive de-

monstrations of welcome.

Our reputation evidently

had been widely extended

in our absence.

was even more cordial than Ukumira, the

left

Uranga bank vied

with the right bank in extending fraternal amenities.

Seventy well-manned canoes darted about

us, hailing

Bula Matari by name, wishing him " more power," dinning his ears with numberless invitations to their different villages,

nnd displaying noisy argumentative-

MATA HI.

POPULARITY OF DULA

177

nes3 about tbe superiority of their respective

One

of these clamorous

swept

chiefs.

canoe-crews was that which

luka of Lukolela alongside of

He had

us.

ventured to Uranga on a trading excursion, and had already acquired

a valuable

ivory,

we accompanied him

old friend,

whither presently

hotel-village,

of

\\\\\\q

was promising.

the prospect of increase

Being an

stock

all

the

Uranga

to

his

chiefs

gathered to make blood-brotherhood, to fraternise over

huge pots

full

of beer, and to exchange views for the

future settlement of a station, and arbitrament of disputes.

As every

canoe arriving up-river from the

cloth-marts of Irebu, Usindi, Lukolela, and Bolobo had

been bringing the the

fruit

news of Bula Matari's doings,

latest

was ready

ripe.

Uranga, while much

We

loud

made

but

a

treaty witli

harmless

fusilading

celebrated the event.

Starting from

Uranga

Equator Station at 4.20

8.20

at

a.m.,

we arrived

p.m., to find that

Yangelo and Coquilhat were

well,

at

Lieutenants

and that they had

extended their improvements by planting an avenue of bananas, besides in the station.

many

other

Ikenge, the native

ways beautifying was dead, and

chief,

no further trouble was anticipated from him.

Our

prisoner,

the grandson of

Mata Bwyki, was

introduced to Equator Station, to the " big house " of the

Mundele, to the other white to the piles of goods,

men and

to the garrison,

including the array of cloths, and

the wealth of vari-coloured beads

— in

might retain the best impressions, and Vol. II.— 12

order that he assist us

with

i883. "

.r^*^'

"

Uranga.

178 1884.

Jan.

THE CONGO.

,

what he had seen among

his artless story of

pale-

tlie

1.

iboko.

iJ^ces.

On

the

we

of January, 1884,

1st

started

on our

return journey to Ihoko, for the sake of our prisoner

and the consummation of other

Lieutenant

projects.

Coquilhat accompanied us.

We

arrived at Central Ihoko at 2 p.m. of the 5th.

Mata Bwyki was

thirty minutes after I

He was

Station.

treated,

by

his

He had

present.

in fact arrived only

had departed, hound

furious at the

Equator

for

manner we had heen

and now when speaking he was almost suffocated

own angry

when

passions,

me what

relating to

he had learned on his return. " Asfor Kokoro's son, keep

him

are restored.

You

away

sorry at

;

first

took him

hut

now

will be

an example

Tlie Gth passed

—that

It will

your goods

made us

all

brought him

that you have

back we have no fear of you.

and he

safe until

do him good,

to the rest."

away, and

still

the

young

fellow

was

on board, but on the 7th a grand council of the chiefs of Iboko was convened, and a great concourse of

men

attended.

During the

sitting

of the thieves

who was known

belonging to us was

men,

seize

Njugu whispered

j^rescnt.

him and hold him

to

" If fast.

to

me

that one

possess

articles

you can trust your Kokoro's son must

not be a captive alone."

A

my

confi-

twenty of the

boats'

few whispered instructions to one of

dential servants served to bring

crews ashore, with cords under their clothes.

The

thief

MOJiE PRISONERS.

was pointed

out,

and

tlie

179

obedient fellows so manociuvred of chiefs.

Of

course there

was confusion and excitement, wild

talk

and furious

gestures, but nevertheless

my men

con-

veyed the thief aboard, and bound him hand and

foot.

that he

The

was captured amidst the

council continued

circle

sitting after the subsidence

its

of the alarm, but in a few minutes another thief Avas arrested from behind one of the chiefs, and, despite

menaces, which

one

pushed

time

very narrowest verge of

safety,

patience

the

to

he was carried away

captive.

Old Mata Bwyki enjoyed himself immensely, Njugu

and Mbembe remained strangely quiet which caused

all

at

all

the chiefs to ask them what

this, all

it

meant.

Mata Bwyki

rose,

and

said

:

" It

only means that

Bula Matari knows the customs of the Bangala. thief

is

known, he may be held

tion of the stolen property is

now got

three

in

bond

until a restitu-

Bula jMatari has

made.

one of

prisoners,

If a

whom

is

my own

He shall keep them, sell them, or kill them —just as he may unless his property be returned to him. Bula Matari lias acted like a brother. He was robbed. He went away for ten days he came back to grandson.



;

give us another opportunity.

have stolen from him^ or

away and

cut

them up

else

in

Now he

little

find the goods

you

shall take his captives

pieces if he likes.

I

have spoken." Seeing which, the chiefs agreed with him that injury to a strong man, to Bula Matari,

to

do

was very impo-

i8.s4.

jboko.

THE CONGO.

180 1884. Jan. 7

litic.

iboko.

directions

The

befall

the

town-criers were therefore despatched in to

announce the doom that would surely

grandson of Mata Bwyki and two other

sons of the Bangala

As Iboko could

all

is

if

the goods were

not restored.

a very large settlement, this restitution

not be effected immediately, but

on the

9th,

one by one the plundered articles were brought to

Mata Bwyki, and the old chief returned them

Then when a due

inspection of the goods

made, and not one of the dozens of

me.

had been

articles abstracted

was found missing, the prisoners were conducted to Mata Bwyki,

to

who was

and

set free,

seen

to

smile

grimly on his wicked grandson, and was heard to

admonish the assembled Bangala

to leave the property

of Bala Matari severelv alone in future lest a dreadful fate

might overtake the guilty party.

On

the 10th a treaty was entered into with Iboko

and, in peace with

all

the Bangala, at evening

we

steamed away down the Congo.

Arriving at Equator Station, a curious story was related to us

proceedings,

by two European eye-witnesses of the the narration

of

which

recalls

our

to

We

memories the sanguinary customs of Dahomey.

had heard of cruel stories

sacrificing of life before

;

but the

were told by Africans, who have the habit of

relating events of this kind in the most matter-of-fact

manner.

When, however, Europeans

describe

them

they strike home to our sense of horror with a shocking force.

An

important chief of the neighbourhood

— an

old

A HORRIBLE MASSACRE.

181

and long-ago superannuated potentate, of whose

exist-

— died,

and,

ence

had

I

unaware

been

previously

according to the custom of the By-yanzi and Bakuti, slaves

had

land of

to

be massacred to accompany him to the

Accordingly the relatives and

spirits.

men began

many

to collect as

slaves as could be pur-

Lieutenant Vangele was chief of about

chased.

men, and on account of the good discipline of the

and

free-

the prompt

by the

obedience the

garrison,

paid

his

to

fifty

station,

commands

Bakuti imagined the soldier-

labourers in the pay of the Association to be slaves,

and proposed

was curious

to purchase

to

Yangele

a few. of them.

know why they wanted

the men, and

he was then informed of the preparations being made to celebrate the burial of their chief with an execution

Of

of slaves. horror,

course the proposal

was

rejected with

and the garrison chased the Bakuti wdth

sticks

out of the precincts of the station.

The mourning from the

interior, and,

that the execution

and

men

relatives finally secured fourteen

being notified by the villagers

was about

begin, M. A^angele

to

with a few of their

his friend proceeded

men

to

view the scene.

They found

quite a

number of men gathered around.

The doomed men seen were kneeling with bound behind them

young

tree,

in

arms

the neighbomhood of a

tall

near the top of which the end of a rope

had been lashed.

A

number

cord and hauled upon tree

their

was bent

like a

it

of

men

until the

bow.

One

laid hold of the

upper part of the

of the captives was

^'^'^*'

Equator.

TEE CONGO.

182 1834. Jan. 12.

Equator.

and the dangling- end of the rope was

selected,

Gncd Tound his neck

;

fast-

the tree sprang several inches

higher, drawing the man's form up, straining the neck,

and almost

lifting

The

the body from the ground.

executioner then advanced with his short broad-bladed

and measured

falchion,

weapon from the

his distance

At

his

position he intended to strike across

He

the nape of the neck. twice.

by stretching

repeated this operation

the third time he struck, severing the head

clean from the body.

It

was whipped up

by the spring of the released away.

several yards

tree

to the air

and sent rebounding

The remaining

captives were

despatched one after another in like manner.

Their

heads were unfleshed by boiling, that the skulls might decorate the poles round the grave.

The

bodies were

dragged away and thrown into the Congo saturated with the blood was gathered

with the defunct

the soil

up and buried

chief.

However much our young have wished

;

militai'y lieutenant

might

to exert himself to save these victims of

savage usage, since money would not buy their liberty,

he had

to content himself

as yet

helpless.

come

in

hurried.

its

own

To

The year

to

On

of grace

destined time, but

will it

no doubt

may

not be

violently resist the butchers with rifles

would simply have been and

with knowing that he was

to

make them

victims instead,

depopulate the land. the 13th

we

left

Equator Station, and arrived

Usindi late in the afternoon.

at

Yuinbila, the guide, was

delivered, with his wages, to his master Miyongo,

who

BOLODO AGAIN BURNT. was

also

183

made liappy with a munificent reward

for the

1884. ,'

loan of the services of his servant.

Leaving Usindi, we

lialted at

>,"

,

Ngomhe,

to

exchange

friendly gifts, and to obtain a promise of concessions

and on the 14th we arrived

at Lukolela.

Young Glave,

made much of an advance

of Yorkshire, had not

in the

work was hard

construction of his station, as the

;

but

he himself, which was of more importance, was in

He was

extraordinary condition.

as fat as a butcher's

boy, he had become double-chinned, and amplified a

Petted by the natives, he was

third larger in body.

beloved by his garrison, and was on excellent terms

with himself. ture-making

and

He had

—had

shelves.

been devoting himself to furni-

made

He had

chairs, tables, doors, shutters,

a good deal to say of the curious

him during

diseases revealed to

Fevers were almost unknown sores,

and similar

;

his stay at Lukolela.

but whitlows,

ulcers,

were frequent and an-

troubles,

noying.

The gravest news we contained in a note from

received .the

For the second time the the ground

On the

from Lukolela was

chief of Bolobo Station.

station

had been burnt

to

!

15th

we

arrived at Bolobo, and saw for our-

selves the relics of the destructive conflagration

houses, goods,

rifles,

— the

even the Krupp's carriage had

been destroyed, and the ammunition and

shells

had

exploded.

The

story told to

me was

'

that a sick man, getting

light-headed, and feeling that his end

was approaching,

THE CONGO.

184 188+.

r.oiobo.

When

resolved to have an honourable burial. ^^^^

body was enveloped in thousands of yards of

tlie

clot]],

and interred with protracted ceremonies. Kegs of

gunpowder were consumed grave

a chief

slaves

;

in the volleys fired over the

were massacred, and the

with the blood

;

his favourite wives

He,

their bodies laid alongside.

soil

was saturated

were strangled, and

friendless, sick,

and

dying, pined for this honour, and crept by night to

apply the destructive torch to Bula Matari's houses.

Although he

w\ns arrested while flying

from the scene,

nothing could be done to avert or check the catastrophe.

Being thatched with grass baked crisp by the tropic the

sun,

glutted only site

fiend

fire

when

rushed up to the sky, and was a few crimson embers

of our unfortunate station.

sliells

To avoid

marked the the bursting

the garrison had to fly to the saw-pits, and to

the hollows by the river-side.

During the excitement

the prisoner fled, to die in the forest beyond Bolobo, satisfied,

his

mad

no doubr, with the honours he had w^on by freak.

But however

this second destruction

may have

been

caused, this third event during the administration of

the chief of sinister

the station

influence

appeared to prove that a

affected

Bolobo,

which

probably

might be averted by a judicious change of masters. Lieutenant Liebrechts, who, while at Leopoldville,

seemed

was

to be a sufferer

inelastic in

from chronic

movement,

debility, so that

pallid of face,

and

he

infii-m

of step, had been transferred in September to Bolobo.

We lialf expected to hear that he was among the missing,

NEWS OF THE

MISSIONARIES.

homewards

or had departed

185

but our astonishment was

;

very great when a strong, martial-looking figure appeared at the landing-place to greet tion of health

the perfec-

and condition, and disclosed himself

To

as Lieutenant Liebrechts. to us flushed

us, in

see a

man

to us

thus restored

with strength, a new and richer bloom of

manhood on

his face,

and the light of renovated

life

glancing from his eyes, reconciled us to hear with patience the tale of the second burning of Bolobo.

This

was

the

is

young gentleman

whom

to

subsequently

intrusted the reconstruction of the station, and,

though

months have elapsed since the period

fifteen

of his appointment, nothing has occurred to cause us to doubt that the

unkind Fates have not been

at last

duly propitiated.

The news we learned and missionary

emerged

efforts,

at the

at Bolobo, relating to political

was that Dr. Ballay had

mouth of

structed a station at Bossi.

the Likuba,

The

at last

and had con-

chief of the Livingstone

Inland Congo Mission had been a visitor at Bolobo prospecting for a

site,

and had

finally selected

below Clnnnbiri, as a suitable

Misongo,

locality to establish a

mission-house.

On The

the

station

18th

we

arrived

were

Kwamouth

Station.

was well advanced, food was abundant, and

the natural advantages were

On

at

tlie 2()tli

of January

we

many. arrived at Kinshassa, and

gratified to observe the station not only in process

of erection, but rapidly approaching completion, under the grove of

mighty baobab which characterises

this

i884.

Bd'obo.

THE CONGO.

186 1884.

Kinsiiassa.

and steady

Consistent, patient conduct,

district.

for-

b^arancG had performed wonders, and the most intractable

community on the Uj)per Congo had been con-

verted to have a perfect faith in our honesty and in

the purity of our motives.

Two

hours

leaving Kinsliassa, the

after

flotilla

steamed into the cove of Le'opoldville, from which

it

had been absent 146 days, having meantime tiavelled 3050 miles on the Upper Congo.

might be expected from the happy

Le'opoldville, as

selection

rishing bells,

of

Lieutenant Yalcke, was a

chief.

its

For from the matin

station.

excepting Sundays, work

to

the vesper

—purposeful By

ran on in a steady, unruffled current.

flou-

work means,

this

nature assisting, the gardens teemed with abundance,

and the houses lined the terrace in an imposing row, so that our guests

from

Nyangwe

uttered exclamations

of admiration which were indeed echoed

Nor on searching

on the boats.

any cause found

for

regret.

by everybody

into details

All

the

was there

chiefs

round

about were on excellent terms with the Europeans the market

that the

held at Le'opoldville Plaza supplied

community needed.

break of temper, and,

magazines were

full

ing enough

supply

River, and

to

for tlie

There had been no out-

consequently,

marring or inharmonious

incident

of goods

new

all

all

to

there

was no

relate.

The

and provisions, contain-

the stations on the

Upper

places to be established on the

next journey to the regions above.

Meantime, on the Lower Congo, owing

to

the fact

'

'

I'

l"lli''T!l'J!1'l'fl!1!l'l 'i':f 'l

gT'

''"

:ir'7 :T '

!'

: r i

AGAIN AT LEOPOLD VILLE.

me

that the su[)eiior j)erson promised to

and second

principal assistant,

had not arrived, the confusion

cliict

187

1882 as

in

or administrator,

liad

been very great at

D

had made only

a short stay at Vivi, but his reign

had been a singu-

onr principal base.

unhappy

larly

" Captain

one.

Owing

reason, Yivi, both with

was

"

some incomprehensible

to

Europeans and natives,

its

in a ferment continually.

Finally, Sir Frederick

Goldsmith had. appeared, and had relieved the station

D

of the presence of " Captain "

Sir Frederick

.

had himself made an inspection of the country as as

but had

Isangila,

kindly influi'nce

Lower River

returned to Europe, and the

had

that

became

begun

governing

extinguished

this

failed

to

Augean

relieve

me

of 120 letters awaiting Falls,

his

depar-

to

and

all

of the manifold complaints

me on my

and revealed a

my

absence.

Out

return from the

state of affairs that

abandon the hope that while

away on

each

but thirty contained the most deplorable

all

accounts,

died

at

but

station,

that poured to Le'opoldville during

me

glow on the

to

Chief after chief had tried their fortunes with

ture.

had

far

the

the

Chief

of

Upper Congo.

might be possible

it

the

compelled

could ever be reme-

Expedition remained

With an

efficient

second

it

yet, but, excepting the notice of Sir

Frederick Goldsmith,

who had

already returned to

Europe, there was no promise or indication that the Comite' intended to assist

me

after seeing the steamers

and boats duly prepared and

equijDped,

with anyone.

Therefore,

and framing most elaborate instructions

for

issi.

LeopoMville

THE CONGO.

188

/V

'

"

viiie.

guidance of

the

1334

sides

seeino:

that

my

deputy, Captain

our Arab

2^uests

Hanssens, Le-

had been con-

ducted to the sea and back to Leopoldville, I turned

my

steps towards Yivi, twenty-four hours before the

gallant Captain departed on his long journey to Stanley Falls.

QOOV-liYE TO LEOPOLD VILLE.

189

CHAPTER XXXII. RETURN TO

VIVT.





A promising farewell Ngalyema's last words Encouraging resolutions of the officers— Hospitality of the natives as we pass— Nselo ferry Quarrel between Ngombi and Mbimbi Peace-making Forms of our treaties with native chiefs List of

Starting of our caravan





districts

—An



their chiefs— The cut-throat Lutete

and

is

changed

for the



Lava at Kalulu and dangerous crevasse Falls: "Whence has it come?" Manyanga " higgledy-piggledy " Hospitality at the mission-house of Mr. and Mrs. Ingham A pretty station Luiraa and Lunionzo valleys Climate and health Congo better

extending







la

Ox

Lemba— View

the T i

coast,

success

the

of Vivi

—Unhappy reflections upon

morning our caravan was was

^

-\

deeply

to

its neglect.

start

I'll impressed with

spacious

n

we had carved

and converted into

about

oi

For on

15,000 square

out of the side of Leopold a

grand

market-place, were assembled the

and a few hundreds of

f

prooi

the

terrace, covering

the

for



which our patient labours had won.

yards, which Hill,





promenade

and

chiefs of Kintarao

their people

to

give

me

a

" good-bye."

Ngalyema had long ago emerged out of of childish tutelage.

He was

state of military subordination

a complete



as

much

the state

man as

in a

an inde-

i884. ^^'"^''^'i

-0-

L^opoU-

190 1884.

March

THE CONGO.

.

pendent

He knew

could well be.

fiborl2^Inal chief

In's

20.

Leopold-

Sundays as well

ville.

any of

as

them by hoisting the

of

and kept due observance

us,

gold-star flag at sunrise

was not averse

picking up

to

respecting the sea-lands

;

trifles

now exchanged

A

without expecting more than their value.

few times

also

he had surprised

of sentiments that caused the

to detect if possible

For instance, ^'

that the

me

me by

to glance sharply at

him

that prompted them.

spirit

gifts of friends

"

A

should not be examined as

pea-nut from a true friend

is

than a bunch of bananas from an enemy."

better

"

Among

"

A look When

you may sleep with open doors."

friends

into a friend's eyes

of cloth from a I

man you

is

better than a treasure

doubt."

my men

had drawn

in

charge

my

white sons

whom

I

was

rude to him and his people,

was going away

when they came differ

We

are

all

old

man

is

;

line,

He

pressed forward for a last word.

to be

the utterance

sounded oddly to be told by Ngalyema

it

to their worth."

men

of information

he had droj^ped his natural

petulance and inordinate heroics, and. gifts

he

requiring hostages^ and

friendly visits without

paid

;

me

wished

to leave

now

Ngalyema to

behind not

that the father

not to push and smack his children

to visit the station, for, said he,

"White

from one another as much as black men. friends

gone

and he speaks

and brothers now, but when the

tlie

young man's head grows

witli a loud

you leave behind that

tliey

Bula Matari's brothers."

tongue

;

charge

largo,

tlie

sons

do not forget that we are

A FROMISINQ FAREWELL.

Whereupon

Seymour

I called Captain

and presented him

to

Ngalyema

He

you would believe in me.

not afraid of him. that he

when

it

If

begins to change

the evil spirit

is

him

in

slow to anger, not

;

this face

its

Watch

it

colour 3-ou will

be

know

turns black you will

it

become your enemy.

lias

is

daily,

and

know

that

until that time sleep in peace.

Fare you well, Ngalyema, Makabi, Mubi, old Ngako,

and you Manswala, Ganchu,

Enje'li

—good-bye

all

of

you!

The

large caravan lifted

its

burdens and struck out

along the road leading to the coast,

many

of the

men

never again to see Leopoldville, which they had

as-

The parting with the Europeans was With Captain Saulez's promise ringing

sisted to build. affectionate.

in

my

he would distinguish his governor-

ears, that

ship by the industrious improvement of Leopoldville, until

it

became a model station

and the assurance of

;

Dr. van den Heuvel that he would complete his sana-

torium on the summit of Le'opold Hill, and perform his duties

manfully and nobly

;

with the carpenter

Schnoor's promise that I should hear no

him

;

ill

repute of

with Ctiptain Hanssens' declaration that he would

be wary and watchful on the Upper Congo, and

with the natives;

garrison,

patient

— with good words, in short, of noble

resolves from each

and

all,

and loud cheers from the

and waving of hands from the throngs of

natives, T followed

issi.

'l.:oi.oM-

him

Believe in

While he wears

apt to break his word.

up,

Saiilez

for final words.

" See, Ngalyema, this son of mine. as

191

my caravan now travelling eastward.

ville.

THE CONGO.

192

Along

1884.

Leopold^'''^'

had collected

road the friendly chiefs

the

great earthen jars full of fresh and foaming palm-juice.

At every

village

to give

cold water drink,

and

women had

the

myself and

prepared pots

my

of

people a parting

to bid us kindly adieus.

Ngamberengi, Ngoma, and old Makoko were by the roadside with their friends, slaves, and children, to see

we

passed showed the

appearances of a general holiday.

The acquaintance

the last of us, and every village

of

many months

full

Not a shadow remained of the doubt

friendship.

which

with them had ripened into a

times blinded their eyes and clouded

in old

The fond regard we had mutually con-

their vision.

ceived towards one another was unmistakeably genuine.

Their rough hands, often horny from labour and usage,

me

as

any that

our march to Inkissi

we

slept first at

felt

warm

as

to

I

ill-

had touched

elsewhere.

On

Ngoma's, a

place which rests lovingly under the lee of the shelter-

ing mountain of lyumbi.

We

crossed the breezy ridge

whence we may gaze over a world of lower hill-domes divided from one another by the sinuous lines of dark

We

foliage.

at

its

base,

plunged down into the cool

and emerged into

the spines of level ridges.

hollows

made

fresh

We

full

forest tangle

sunlight tracing

dipped down into the

with streams and verdure, and

then climbed up to rest under Mbe's friendly and grateful palms. land, with the

down over

its

Along an

elevated and grassy table-

Congo a few miles

to our right tearing

successive terraces,

we next

journeyed.

Swfillllil^^

NSELO FERRY.

Beyond

banana

Kinzila's

cones

down on winding

descended

to

brawling Lulu, and

the

west camped on a

the

opposite

we

proves

cross the pellucid waters of

a few miles

193

square-browed

hill

Nsangu, whence we looked

of

woods crowned with

belts of tall

impervious leafage, on which the sunshine broke out in sprays as the breeze kissed the

pendulous and

deli-

cate tops.

Over

long, grassy ridges

pleasant peoples to see

and followed

a road which gently undulated

us, until

we urged our way, being greeted by

who we

flocked from their

happy

villages

stood over a deep-wooded gorge

through which the full-volumed Inkissi River flowed strongly past the ferry to

fall

lower

down

in beautiful

cascades to the Congo.

The guardians of western

side,

the

and the word

Bula Matari and

Nselo on the

ferry are at is

loudly that

holloa'd

The

his people are come.

chiefs of

Nselo are in our pay, and Teceive monthly subsidies like others.

They accordingly hasten

with their canoes, assiduously, and us such further welcome as

to ferry us

over

in their village

give

commend them

favourably

to kind consideration.

Beyond Nselo the country

is

for

a

considerable

distance level, feeders of the Inkissi skirring,

the plateau on which

the

We

Congo

to be

we

travel.

spur towards

Vol. II.— 13

of us,

are too far from

annoyed by the deeply-grooved

cross a lovely little stream,

inclined

We

left

hills.

and follow a gentle

Mbimbi, near which we

see.

i884.

Kinziia.

1884.

Mbimbi.*

THE CONGO.

'

194

suspended to a

a felon

tree,

Congo-land has condemned

whom Judge Lynch

of

for pilfering in the public

market.

The

folks of Mbinibi

our carriers

for here are

sweep the

welcome us with gleeful shouts,

huts,

who know

and tidy them

us

They

all well.

for their guests, while

bowls and foaming pots of palm-wine come forth as a grateful testimony of their regard for us.

Ngombi,

close

by to the

me

of Mbimbi, and the chiefs of the latter wish

how

advise them of

is

a storm in a teapot, truly

|)reaching peace

work of

to

to slake their fury in the best blood

Here

Ngombi.

anger

right, has excited the

and brotherhood

'

is

!

My

not yet

ended, and so they have to listen to paternal admonitions to keep the peace.

be closed

No

!

be heard

;

The road

cannot,

must

fighting nor sounds of gunshot

the carrier travels with

not,

must

empty hands but

loaded back, and they must not be frightened by the noise of strife, the cries of war, &c. of to

Mbimbi promise

So the people

faithfully to cloak their wrath.

But

ensure their loyal observance of their promises a

treaty route,

is

made with them,

that, in

as with each chief along the

consideration of certain quantities of

them monthl}^ they

cloth to be paid to

shall abstain

from acts of aggression and violence against their neighbours. negotiations,

Tlie purport of this, as of other similar

may

be best understood by the perusal of

the following forms

:

FOUMS OF

TR-EATIES.

195

{Copy.)

Expedition Internationale du Haut-Congo.

Village of Banza Mbuba, District of Nzungi, March 26th, 1884. undersigned

chiefs of Nzungi, agree to recognise the i884. the Association Internationale Africaine, and in sign Mnrch 2fi, Nzungi. thereof adopt its flag (blue with a golden star). We declare we shall keep

"Wo,

the

sovereignty of

the road open and free of

all

tax

and impost on

all

strangers arriving

with the recommendation of the agents of the above Association. All troubles between ourselves and neighbours, or with strangers of any nationality, we shall refer to the arbitration of the above Association. We declare that we have not made any written or oral agreement with any person previous to this that would render this agreement null and void.

We declare

that from henceforth

wo and our successors

the decision of the representatives of the Association in

ing our welfare or our jiossessions, and that

we

agreement with any person without referring

Manyanga

all

or the chief of Leopoldville, or act in

all

shall abide

by

matters affect-

shall not enter into

any

matters to the chief of

any manner contrary

to

the tenor or spirit of this agreement.

Witnesses

Keekuru, his X mark, Chief of Nzungi.



O mark,

Dualla, his

Nseka, his X mark, Chief of Banza Mbuba.

Chami Pard.

Mwamba,

his

x mark,

of Makitu's.

Nzako, his X mark, Banza Mbuba.

X mark, Of Banza Mbuba.

Insila Mi^aka, his

Iriaki, his

X mark,

Chief of Banza Mbuba.

(Treat !/.)

Henry M. Stanley, Commanding Expedition du Haut Congo, acting in the name and on behalf of the " Association Internationale Africaine," and the king and chiefs of Ngombi and Mafela, having met together in conference at South Manyanga, have, after deliberation, concluded the following treaty, viz. Art.

I.— The

:

chiefs of

desirable

Xgombi and Mafela

that

recognise that it is highly the " Association Internationale Africaine

THE CONGO.

196

should, for the advancement of civih'zation and trade, be

J384 April

They

firmly established in their country.

1.

own

freely of their

Manyanga,

now,

therefore

accord, for themselves and

their heirs

and successors for ever, do give up to the said Association the sovereignty and all sovereign and governing rights to all their territories. They also promise to assist the said Association in its work of governing and civilising this country, and to use their influence with all the other inhabitants, with whose unanimous api^roval they make this treaty, to secure obedience to all laws made by the said Association, and to assist by labour or otherwise, any works, improvements, or expeditions which the said Association shall cause at any time to be carried out in any part of these territories. Art. II.

—The

Ngombi and Mafela

chiefs of

i^romise at

times to

all

join their forces with those of the said Association, to resist

the forcible intrusion or repulse the attacks of foreigners of

Art. III.

any nationality or

— The viz.,

colour.

country thus ceded has about the following boundaries, the whole of the Ngombi and Mafela countries, and

any others tiibutary to them and the chiefs of Ngorabi and Mafela solemnly affirm that all this country belongs absolutely to them that they can freely dispose of it and that they neither have already, nor will on any future occasion, make any treaties, grants, or sales ot any parts of these ;

;

;

territories to strangers

without the permission of the said

All roads and waterways running through this

Association.

country, the right of collecting tolls on the same, and fishing,

all game, mining, and forest rights, are to be the absolute pro-

perty of the said Association, together with any unoccupied

lands as Art. IV.

—The

may

at

any time hereafter be chosen.

" Association Internationale Africaine

the chiefs

of

Ngombi and Mafela

the

*'

agree to pay to

following

of merchandise, viz., one piece of cloth per

month

articles

to each of

the undersigned chiefs, besides present of cloth in hand

;

and

the said chiefs hereby acknowledge to accept this bounty and

monthly subsidy in

full

settlement of

all

their

claims on

the said Association. Art.

v.— The 1.

"Association Internationale Africaine"' promises: To take from the natives of this ceded country no occupied

by mutual agreement. utmost the prosperity of the said country. inhabitants from all oppression or foreign

or cultivated lands, except 2.

3.

To promote To protect

to its its

intrusion. 4. It

authorizes the chiefs to hoist

its flag

;

to settle all local

FORMS OF TREATIES. disputes or palavers

;

and

197

to maintain its authority with

the natives.

Agreed

to,

signed and witnessed, this 1st day of April, 1884.

Henry M. Stanley. Witnesses to the signatures —

Tonki, his X mark, Senior Chief of Ngombi.

E. Spencer Burns.

D. Lehrman. ^^^^^^-

Mampuya,

his

X mark,

Senior Chief of Mafela.

We, the undersigned

chiefs of the districts i^laced opposite

our names

helow, do hereby solemnly bind ourselves, our heirs and successors, for the purpose of mutual support and protection, to observe the following articles

Art.

I.

:

— We agree title of

and combine together, under the name and

to unite

the

'•

New

Confederacy," that

towns and

their

villages, shall

territory, to be henceforth

Art. II.

—We

is,

our respective

known

as the

New

Confederacy.

declare that our objects are to unite our forces

means

for the

common

districts,

be embraced by one united

defence of

aud our

the districts comprised

all

within the said territory to place our forces and our means under such organization as we shall deem to be best for the common good of the people and the welfare of the confederacy. ;

Art. III.

— The

New Confederacy may be extended by the admission of such districts adjoining those mentioned before, when their chiefs have made application, and exjiressed their consent to

all

the articles herein mentioned. Art. IV.

—We, the

people and the chiefs of the

the blue flag with the golden

New

Confederacy, adopt

in

the centre for our

star

banner. Art. V.

— The

Art. VI.

confederated districts guarantee that the treaties made between them shall be respected.

— The

public force of the confederacy shall be organized at the

rate of one

man

out of every two

men

able to bear arms

;

of

native or foreign volunteers. Art. VII.

— The

organization, the armament, equipment, subsistence of

this force, shall be confided to the chief agent in Africa of the

" Association Internationale du Congo."

To the above articles, which are the results of various conventions held between district and district, and by which we have been enabled to understand the common wish, we sovereign chiefs, and others of the

THE CONGO.

198 1884. Api'il !•

Congo district hereby append onr names, pledging ourselves to adhere to each and every article:

Manyauga.

{

Mark „

of Matanga.

Mahimpi Mbeza. Mbambi. Mbango Mpambo. Mkote.

District of

Khionzo

Mango Mbando. Mbango Mkote. MiJambo Kionzo. Mtimpi Mavungo. Mtimi^i

Mpambo.

Mambouko Ntamo. Massala.

Vivi Maviingu. Kapita. District of Vivi

Benzani Congo.

Mku. Mambuku. Ngufu Mpauda.

Vivi

Dedede. Samuna. Sanda Mundele.

Sanda Mallele. Sanda Mpolele.

Mkandu. N'Sanda Manena. Nebangi. District de

Nsanda

Neknmbi. Ngomi. Netzima.

Suka Madrata. Makaya. Mganga. Kapita Nsanda. Kapita Fontula. Sanda Nlell6. District de Boete

Boete Nzita. Fulula.

Mavinga.

Nzau. Ngombi. District de

Mgangila

Pambu. Makambu. Kajiita.

Nimpangi. Nekinga.

CONGO DISTRICTS AND CHIEFS. Mark District de Msulca

District de

Sadika Banzi.

District de Lefuna.

District de Yellala.

District de Kinzala

District de LusaJct

Kindunga

District de Vivi

District de Isangila

District de

Ngoma

District de

Chiama Mhongo

of

Msuka Mkwete.

199

THE CONGO.

200 1884. April 1.

Mark District of Izenda Nzendi.

.

J

Manyanga. |

District de

Limama Mayoukona

District dt Lutete

.

.

Ne



N'Zaozi.

Limama



Lutete Kimprika. Tedede.

.

Ndamhi Mbo7igo



.

Mbiiida







Chionzo



Kihwanda

,,

Kineati.



Kimbunda

Ntete.

„ District

„ .



District de Sellele

District de

.



Sellele.



Loanda Maswambu.



Nassoma.



Natela.



Ichiama lOmpioka.



Chiomkiandu Kilonda).

,,

Lussala Yori

i

T

f



Masivamba

Chionzo.







de Ganya

Ndambi Mbongo. Mazau Chama (Bindu).



„ .

,,

»

,



1

Ichiamambourn

^,

Kussala.

(

BusallaBusundil ,, , >Monauganda. -r 1



.

,

Ichiamkumama

I

Lema (Makanga).



Sakola



Ichiamdebe (Melonde). Salamamboina (Makanga). Lussala Wala.

,,

,,

I

Mayiikona.

Matanga Sissulv/a (Kirabwanda). Ichiakundama (Kineati). Ichiamboma (Banza Kimbunda). Ichiama Mbongo. Lengo Mbenza. Ichimo Mvangu Makari. Lakali Bwadi Matombukele.



.

Linza.



„ District of

of Izenda N'Zendi.





Inkelia Lnbrofa.

Kingoma. District de

Naluma

District de

Ntombo

Sukibola.

Lutete Mayungi. Kinkela Lenga (Nsanda Ntombo) r

District de Yon;,a



Malonore.

Mavindi. Ichiampanzu.

.

Mavambu. I



Ichiakundama (Nganda). Lutete Ngoma. Lutete Nsona.

District de

Kikai

.

Tiama Surapa. Naboela (Nsundi).

Kikundama.

CONGO DISTRICTS AND CHIEFS. '

District de

Moinzi

District de

Kissimha

District de

Kompola

District de

Wunki

.

Mark

of Kinkela Nzita.

201

THE CONGO.

202

'Mark of Ionia Mboma (Ngombe).

1884. April 1.



Manvansa.

„ „

Lutete Mavungu (Kiamba). Sakala Mbwoka (Kaiji) Movemba Motunda (Ntando

Ngombe). District de

Ntomho „

Siku Zambi (Makanga). Lutete Mokidi (Nakaji KunaZoele),



Kinkela Makinzi (Kiukongo).

„ „ „

Mivinze (Kissinga). Sakala Makanza (Mankamba). Mkanda (Bauza Nyunga).



Mkanda (Banza



Kassungwa (Banza Makango). Cliiko Mayaka (Kiviza).



I.

District de

Mohanga

District de

Mahunga



Xytinga).

Bako (Mbanza Tampala). District de Glonala

J

Ichiama Kundi. Bangazi.

Matunda Mkassa. Kussala Mputu.

Mbongo (Mavula). Msuka Banza ( ). „ Issuki a

Malembessa District de

Bemha



(

).

Chiamq, Lutiiba (Madioka).

NampoUele „ ( Glonalla Makuta Didela

).

(Ksala).

Cliiama.

Naowami (Monasala). Mayemba (Mokinanga). Kinsiola (Kiukiuka).

District de

Ngomhe

Yandudu. Namampuia. Mangomole (Nsieka Mavalu). Bikandii.

Banuini.

Nampampuia

(Ivnnango).

Makaia

(



Kivcsna (Kimbuku). Mandangi (Kimbongo).

Qualuka (Unatiba). District de

Kimpiri

Mayemba

(Kissenga).

Zenga (Ngola). Moyola (Kinkiilu). iS'iahibu (Koisefu).

Nalekete (Kintoko).

Mbuku

(Kiijaji).

).

CONGO DISTRICTS AND Mark District de

Buht

of

CHIEFS.

Sumbu

(Bulu).

Makito.

Nubukutu. Nawaji.

Nzilabonda (Ntandu).

Kebawcle (Kimbonda).

Namoina Kibonda

.

.

.

{

(Maiitoba).

Mayossa (Mbindi).

Bemba

(Kiboli).

Mswekx (Kimpange). Betani (Nsandu).

Minina (Broende).

Kwemsunga

(Kulonde).

Sukula Mboiiga. Tambele. Yenga. Nampuia.., District de

Kalemha

.

Nzangi (Makaji). Gampoia. Lussilo (Konzo).

Monayendi. Kiboli (Kibunga).

District de Losi

Kimponda (Kituuda), District de

Kihindika

Lomba. .

Makiona. Matai-i.

Niangana. MayeHa. District de

Kwakalla.

Ntombo

Makitu. Fihxnkoiim.

Lougozi.

Masuka. Baghidi. District de

Banzi Kimbuko

Petelo.

Lovamba. Liifuanzu. District de

Ngoya

.

Borgi.

Kimbwanga. District de

Lemba

Petolo. .

Komingo.

District de

Mbu

Makwata. Gomantade. Gongoulu. Jos.

1884. April 1.

Manyanga.

Nausudi (Kaladi).

District de

203

204

THE CONGO. Mark

1884. April 1.



Manyanga. District de

of Tanglongo.

Matuso Mboiigo.



Kanza.



Mkossa.



Mavungu. LuYOuma.

Xdandanga

,,

Petelo. „ District de

Ngomhi

,,



Zoa Manipuya. Mswalu. Tong. Tuiizo Mivembo. Mballa. Petelo.

District de

Mpanga

,,

Yinda.



Lolowe.

,

Melengo.



Ngombe (Ngombe).



Makitu (Banza Kandoke).



Lutete (Lufunchou).



Issa.



Dongo (Banza Kindingo). Tiamutulu (Kinangilwa).



District de Lutete

Missanga.





Kinonga.



Nsumbu (KimbaEda).



Dolorwala.



Ntoba (Funzou). Chiakambongo (Nzoiindon).

„ „

Petelo Secca (Nkoko).



Petelo



Bemba.



Sumba

(Kinibenza)

Bolotovo (Kindemba).

Tusa. District de Sello

Challa.

Cojji/

of Mr. Stinhi/'s remarks.

N.B. At Isangila IVIessrs. Morgan, Parmintcr, A'an Kerchoven, and Hortwig were present. From Isangila to Luln on South Bank, in presence of Messrs. Morgan and Par m inter. Lutete Kuna, a native of Nsanda, present as interpreter. Originals sent to Brussels with Mr. Morgan, who sent receipt to Lieutenant Valcke.

Gen. Goldsmith received copy. I received a copy.

H. M.

S.

FOBM OF

TBEATIES.

205

iCopy.)

ExPKDiTioN Internationale du IIaut-Congo.

Pallaballa, Vdlh .

April, 1884.

A Supplementary Treaty made this day between H. M. Stanley, Chief Agent of the Association Internationale Africaine, and the undersigned chiefs of the districts of Pallaballa, to explain the meaning and spirit of term " Cession of Territory," found in the Treaty made 8ti2 January 1883, between Lt. Van do Veldc and the said chiefs of Pallaballa.

I.

— It

if.

agreed between the above parties that the term " Cession of " does not mean the purchase of the .soil by the Associa-

Territory

but the purchase of the suzerainty by the Association, and acknowledgment by the undersigned chiefs.

tion,

its just

II.

— It

is

well understood by the undersigne

arbitration between the chiefs

any colour or nationality,

foreigners of

Internationale Africaine

tion

matters

1

chiefs that the right of

and natives of Pallaballa and is

all

conceded to the Associa-

that the right of governing, of

;

strangers of any colour or and the natives of Pallaballa of deciding in all affairs when appealed to by the undersigned chiefs of deciding what Europeans shall .settle in any part of the district of Palla-

arranging

all

affecting

nationality

;

;

balla,

conceded

is

in

to

full

The undersigned

Africaine.

the

Association Internationale

declare themselves as accepting the iiag of the Association Internationale Africaine,

as a sign to

all

men

and that no other

chiefs

also

that the Association

flag shall

is their accepted suzerain, be hoisted within the limits of the

In consideration of which the undersigned and shall receive the monthly pay promised treaty made with Lt. Van de Velde.

district of Pallaballa.

chiefs are entitled to

them

in the

first

All these being fully explained to the undersigned chiefs, they have affixed their

marks

in

te>timony of their adhesion to the terms and spirit

of this supplementary treaty.

H. M. Stanley,

Commanding Expdn. du Haut-Congo. Witnesses

(Signed)



Henry Craven. Livingstone Mission.

DuALLA.

Noso, his X mark. Kiangala, his X maik. Talente, his

X mark.

Nefutila, his

X mark.

Nelombe-Katende, his X mark.

1884. '^l"''

I'J-

P:tllaballa.

206

THE CONGO.

-

{Copy.)

Expedition Internationale du Haut-Congo.

South Manyanga Station, March 1884.

March

We, the

chiefs

Dongosi and Knkuru of Yoonda,

sole

31s^, 1884.

masters of the

of that name, having applied to Henry M. Stanley, Chief of the Manyauga. Expedition Internationale du Congo, to enter into that confederacy of 31.

fjigtrjct

native chiefs

now

established between Stanley Pool and South Manyanga,

and all members

the responsibilities

and privileges undertaken or enjoyed by the

of that confederacy being explained to us, we hereby enter into agreement with the said Henry M. Stanley, and bind ourselves, our

an

heirs

and successor?,

to observe the following articles

:

I._We shall keep all roads passing through our district free of duty, tax or impost to all strangers, white or black, who shall have the recommendation or good-will of the Association Internationale Africaine. II.

— We surrender

all

right to collect taxes or imposts to the agents of

the said Association.

III.— We agree

to recognize the sovereignty of the said Association,

adopt the flag of the Association, blue, with a golden

and

star, as a sign

thereof.

lY.

— We shall

refer to the said Association all matters relating to the

government, all questions affecting the peace of the country, all troubles between ourselves and neighbours, or between ourselves

and strangers of any colour or nationality, to the arbitration and decision of the Agent of the Association Internationale Africaine.

v.— We

declare that we have not made any agreement, oral or written, with any person that would render this agreement null and void in any particular.

YI.

— We declare that from henceforth we and our successors and subjects shall abide

by the decision of the Chief-Agent of the Association

Internationale Africaine in all matters affecting our welfare, our

any and that we shall not act contrary to the spirit of this agreement in any particular, on pain of forfeiting all subsidies, gifts, or presents made to us by the agents of the Association. In possessions, or our relations to our neighbours, or strangers of

colour,

witness whereof

we have

l^roxies to sign this

sent our confidential servants as our agreement, having understood its contents and

given our consent verbally in presence of our people to do and act precisely as the chiefs of Ngombi, Lutete, and Makitu have already done. Witnesses



Mdombasi Luboki,

DoALLA.

Proxy

Lofunsu

his

X mark,

for the chief Dongosi.

Mbulu, his X mark. Proxy for the chief Kuturu.

li

THE CUT- THRO AT LUTETK

207

From Mbimbi we descended slowly threading our 11 -n way through luxuriant grass until, passing the hillcone of Kizalu, we crossed the stream to which the natives have no other name to give but the " Stream," or " Njali," from whence we follow a lengthy spur, on which the villages of Mani, Ngoma, Kimbenza, •^



1

and Mpika,

1

at respectable distances apart, are

1

found

own particular banana groves Banza Mbuba comes next, on a com-

amid

secluded

'

and palms.

their

manding height

a

ov^erlooking

wilderness

of

hills,

between which, however, there runs a narrow neck, Nzungi, a village of

or saddle of a ridge. lies to

the

left.

carriers,

Fat black pigs roam about freely

amid the abundant ground-nut position, if anything,

is

fields,

on a breezier

and Nzungi's

hill

than that of

Mbuba. Several lucent streams are passed before

It

the

find

close to tlie verge of the

is

certain

From

this spot

we

river, into the plain of the

uplands of Ngombe', of

1882.

obtainable.

when he

to the

Mulwassi River,

more promising

Lutete'.

cannot help smiling

bold remark

is

soon strike in an oblique direction

and up over much reddish land

I

Congo canon, and a

grand picturesqueness of view

from the

to

we have viewed several times north bank in our camp at Mpakambendi.

Kimpemba, which we

when on

we come

when

first

I

remember

Lutete"s

saw one of our agents

in

For the pleasure of decapitating the pale-faced

man, he was willing

to

make

conditions.

Swaggering

under a load of palm wine, he affected a loud voice, and

i884. J^Iarch.

Mbimbi

TBE CONGO.

208 1884.

said to the coloured escort, "

March.

Lutew.

Give me that white man,

m peace. .

and you may go away "

What

,,

do you wish a white

man

for

?

" asked the

at the unparalleled insolence of

men, rather astonished the demand. "

To

so often levied blackmail

had

badgered them, and

and

this

to him.

such a man's jugular seemed

The

the escort,

of

Lutete'

laid

escort,

whose

people, release

happy

man

of these men. station,

—a

ever

Victoria's

now

aboard

vessels.

and

were the

and captured nine

who

station,

a neat

and

man-of-war's

British

leads as jolly a

life

as

any of Her Majesty Queen

With onlv twelve men

one mile

tliis

furnishes

have a

away from

lie

lives

the " ferocious

same throat-cutter of two years ago carriers

and

a most exemplary individual in every

Between Lutete villages inhabited

besides

table-servants,

sending his children to the Baptist School. is

firing.

example of what may be

governed by a

lived

in peace just

chief;

We

boatswain's mate,

he

Pool,

commenced

fire,

the

who were kept as prisoners, and for he had to make humble apology. But

to-day Lutete presents an

made

the

discomfiture, however, few as

numbers, they returned a sharp

On

safely.

however, towards

an ambuscade, and

his utter

of his

however, did not

him away

share his opinon, and took

return

on other wayfarers, and

white being looked so innocent

guileless, that to slit

no great crime

To

He

cut his throat," replied the chief brutally.

In

fact,

he

i-espect.

and Mpangu we pass by several

by men

for

whom

I

have great

GEOLOGICAL EVIDENCES. Toonda, in the hollow, enchanting

regard. cosiness

and

delicious bits of domestic

Bakongo, and lyenzi, with very promise

life

tall

for

its

i88k

among

the

Mpaugu,

palms, which

gifts of their effervescing juice, will

men who have

be forgotten by

shaded by the glorious leafy

By

209

the

not soon

seen their open spaces

trees.

Mpangu

time he arrives at

dawned on the mind of the

it

have

will

traveller that both

the

north and south banks of the Congo originally formed

And

one plateau.

if

he has intelligently reflected

on what he has seen, he

will be able to interpret the

geological story told by the deep furrows which time

has inscribed in the canon of the Congo, and the complicated system of profound gorges trending towards it

fi'om the

For like It is

southward and northward.

instance, close to

many

I

Mpangu

I

stand upon a spot

have seen north and south of the

river.

equal in height to the thousand ridges and

hill-

tops I see around, with the exception, perhaps, of half-

a-dozen cones, which peculiar crevasse near

may be a few me reveals the

for at least 150 feet deep.

The

feet higher.

A

nature of the

soil

sides of the crevasse are

perpendicular, a stone dropped from an outsti'etched

arm would

fall

diverted from crevasse

is

straight to the bottom without being

its

course

by

a single projection.

apparently extending

;

it

The

has encroached on

At any moment during the rainy caravan road at this place may sink to the

the public path.

season the

bottom with the

fall

of a mass of clayey and sandy

conglomerate, which will be pulverised into dust by the Vol. II.— 14

THE CONGO.

210 1884.

Mpanga.

Another

shock of the descent from such a height. ^^1^ the

powdcred

it,

swept into the next

debris will be

runnel, thence into the

more impetuous stream next

and thence into the Congo,

colour to the already

rain,

to

give a

to

browner

little

brown water of the great

river.

This crevasse will extend deeper into the heart of the

narrow plateau ridge on which

stand

;

wider and wider with each year's rains

;

exchange the perpendicular

become a

will

for a slope,

gully, afterwards

finally a valley.

water enough

I

to

it

and the

In a heavy rainstorm

then

will

it

a wide

yawn

will

cre'vasse

and

ravine,

it

will collect

plough deeper down, until the rock

base of this great bed of clay and sand

In such a manner,

I

revealed.

is

understand, has the

geological

history of this section been disclosed, at least, if I read it

in the light of facts obtained

But

if I

by our overland journey.

descend into the bottom of the Congo canon,

and look up

to the precipitous walls of solid

rock that

frequently are seen rising 200 and 300 feet (as in the

Pocock basin, and

all

along

that

tortuous narrow

channel between Mpakambendi and Mbelo), the ages

which have elapsed since the plateau above was

frac-

tured, carries a calculation back through such an im-

measurable time that one would fain relegate the

computable problem to those savants

who

selves at

home among decimals and

tures.

can see watermarks as high as

I

the present water-surface rise

;

them-

recondite conjec1

00

feet

above

and yet the highest river

cannot exceed twenty feet above

How many

find

in-

its

present level

years would be required to wear

away

;

!

APPEARANCE OF MANYANQA. rock of such a durable nature

be a at

first

There

question.

low water about Kalulu

There have been rock

is

down

eig-lity feet

also lava

has

it

mass of rock and earth, a clear 400 from amid such scenes as

it

is

Sphynx Rock,

found

Mpangu.

come

?

falls,

a

intact

feet

this,

and Manyanga, that we view the in the distance

i«84.

see a complete islet

which has dropped down, or rather sunk, an

It is

would

as earth

slides, as well

may

?

to be

still

Whence

Falls.

and at the Inkissi Falls one

211

between Mpangu

Mount Beii

lofty

the east of

little to

and on the range of a plain grooved deeply by small

the

tributaries

of

Mpioga

the

which

river,

empties into the Congo below our station of South

Manyanga. It

would be

as this,

The

difficult to

conceive of a land so

and yet presenting such an ungrateful

valleys are rich, but there

is

so

much

to the heart, as

aspect.

slope of red,

we

hard, sterile clay visible everywhere that

fertile

are chilled

though we were looking at so many

blank walls, which hid a

fair prospect

of luxuriant

gardens.

We

stopped long enough at South

Manyanga to enable me to cross over to North Manyanga and measure the amount of work performed during my absence at that station since

a

its

foundation in 1881.

" higgledy-piggledy "

design, which compelled pull

it

all

down and

state,

me

rebuild

I

found

it

in

without any order or

to order the new^ chief to it

anew.

It

was

in such

a backward condition that any station a month old on the

Upper Congo was more advanced.

And

yet this

THE CONGO.

212 1884. April 2.

Mauvan
place alone must have cost the Association £10,000 -^

m ,

Foi such a

suui,

and

thirty labourers ouglit

tliree years,

to

something worth viewing

.

a l^uropean with

have been able

present

to

but here was a " hotch-

;

potch" of rickety-looking structures which one would

have imagined

to

have been made by a

of poor

lot

squatters preparatory to prospecting.

Here Mr.

I

met Mr. Spencer Burns and the gallant Croat,

Lehrman,

fresh

from an expedition which they Mr. Lehrman

had made from the mouth of the Kwilu.

was commissioned with the command of Phillippeville Mr.

on the Kwilu-Niadi.

Burns,

who had

specially

down

distinguished himself on this occasion, was sent

to

Yivi bv the river, while his natives were led overland along the south bank by myself. April 2nd.

— We

continue our journey from South

Manyanga westward, edging away from the chilly gorge, over the well-washed hills, down over the murmuring waters of the Ngaku, and up along to the

A

more

fertile levels in the vicinity of

few miles beyond

this

steep slopes

Ndunga.

favoured and amiable com-

munity of Ndunga we begin the descent

we

into the broad

are hospitably received

by

Mr. and Mrs. Ingham, of the Livingstone Mission.

I

valley of Lukunga, where

should have washed that to labour at

which

my

" chiefs,

'

who have

Manyanga, had seen the pretty

this soldier missionary

a-dozen men, or rather, boys.

it

station

had constructed with

half-

The mission cottage was

as dainty within as any residence need be.

garden behind

little

affected

A spacious

presented a vivid promise

;

a well-

A MISSION-HOME.

213

kept court or plaza in front was surrounded by store-

Under

rooms, kitchen, and schoolroom.

shadowy

the

eaves were to be seen the mission children,

who have

a striking likeness and family resemblance to the black

mission children seen at Zanzibar, Sierra Leone, Old Calabar, and the

dued

air,

as

West

to believe that the

I think

Congo

it

rather encouraged

climate,

hollow of liukunga, W'as endurable,

even in that low

when

I

here saw a

delicate-looking lady bear herself so bravely. literal

sub-

though they were impressed with the awful

mysteries of the alphabet.

me

They have the same

Indies.

truth

when

I

my

say that

I utter

sojourn for twenty

hours was enjoyed with the most exquisite pleasure.

Ten men might

away

the veneer of civilisation on that mission-house,

bare and barbarous

and

left

the

lady's hands,

it

in far-away

and the rich

;

but the art was in

gift of taste, inherited

England, had diffused attractiveness over

the humble home. all I

have utterly stripped and carried

£100 was probably the value of

saw, but then the £10,000 expended at

failed to excite pleasure or admiration in

From

the

cheerful mission-house

of

my

Manyanga thoughts.

Lukunga

caravan climbed the steep slopes leading up plateau-land once more.

A

to the

day's journey carried us

over miles of level expanse, which might,

if cultivated,

supply thousands of people with wheat and corn if its

dense crops of wild,

the

tall

;

and

grasses were superseded

by what industry could sow, plant and build over the great waste, then

we might

see

more of beauty and

richness displaying the fertility of the soil better than

i884.

Lukanga.

THE CONGO.

214 1884. April 3.

Vombo.

the dead monotony of aspect which p

now

enslirouds

its



1

potent powers of production.

Yombo

is situateei

on the verge of one of these plains

Lukunga valley Mwembe' western edge. The next day's march

overlooking the its

narrower

over

streams, until

;

grassy

we

ridges

separated

stands on

takes

by

"us

small

arrive on the grass-robed plain of

Muluangu, whence we descend into the trough of the

Kwilu River, which a few years before we ascended in the steam-launch Royal. to the

Congo from

It is possible to

the ferry of

descend

Kondo, but the navi-

gator must beware of hidden snags.

Beyond the Kwilu we discover the broad valley the Luima, which calcite

and shale

valleys

may

is

remarkable for

projections.

at a future time

Stanley Pool, as almost

tributaries of the

One

exposed bed of

of these broader

be utilised for routes to these rivers

all

broad, uniform ridge, which

tween the

its

of

is

Kwa

start

from a

the water-parting be-

and the Congo.

Between the valley of the Luima and the next valley

—that

of the

Lunionzo

—there

is

an easy pass by

which a railway might lead from Yoonda at the head of the long reach above Isangila. onzo,

we

pass

Crossing the Luni-

under the cool sable shades of Ntombo

Lukuti grove, and then over a grassy expanse to the station of

Banza Manteka.

Close by the station

settlement of the Livingstone Inland in a

is

the

Congo Mission,

steamy hollow, too well sheltered from the breezes

blowing over the western uplands.

From any

of the hilly remnants of the ancient con-

!

THE LUFU VALLEY. tinuous plateau at Banza Manteka of

many

villages,

215

we

see the groves

such as Mubangu,

Banza Nkosi,

Kinkanzu, Banza Kulu, Ntombo Lukuti.

These

vil-

lages are great producers of ground-nuts, which are

Lower Congo

carried to the

factories to

exchange

for

and gin.

cloth

Six hours took us from Manteka station to Isangila station,

inertia

much to grieve me, in the under which our own people had fallen through where

I witnessed

A

the lack of superintendence.

house remained

still

unroofed that had been fourteen months building. Into the

the rain

store-house

leaked

through the rotten

There

grass roof, spoiling a valuable stock of goods.

were over 400 bales within, yet our gentleman charge, re-roof

done

than add

rather it

completely

— preferred

to

the

to

— which

five

the

unroll

grass

in

covering or

days would have

bales

and

dry the

of the

Ntombo

cloth

The next Lukuti

is

valley

we meet westward

that of the Lufu, a considerable stream with

a rapid current, from whose breast rock-strewn

slopes

woody

fringes

we

rise to

and cross pebble-sown

summits, until after a short series of these

we

hill-

thread

the twilight aisles of a forest-covered mountain

side.

Ascending here we view a wild world of ruined upland, rent, torn, fissured

and

disfigured, in line after line,

cone after cone, top after top, until the eye

upon that

Pallaballa,

we

outlines.

and Nokki, and Vivi,

is

at such distances

distinguish only their blanched and

The

fastened

irregular caiion of the

Congo

meagre is

traced

i8«*.

wanteka

THE CONGO.

21^ 1884.

isancriia.

far

below Yivi,

On

the south side

grated heaps of utterly useless land. the

side

plateaus

these disinte-

lie

On

the north

Sadika Banzi, and

of Mgangila,

Kionzo present a deceptive appearance of level.

What

a lesson about the climate Europeans could

be taught from this

mountain pulpit

tall

!

For here

they have before them at one glance of the rough and uninhabitable land the causes which render them weak-

With collapsing frames and

knee'd and faint-hearted.

stomachs feebly nourished by tough goat-meat and insipid bananas, they press

on over those heart-breaking

with the endless ascents and descents, through

hills,

winding labyrinths of suffocatingly

tall grass,

and each

time they emerge into light and glare the cruel sun strikes their pale

and tender half-dressed

their white arms, scorches their necks,

Presently

backs.

bodies, burns

and roasts their

they are hid from sight at the

bottom of grassy tunnels, to issue reeling from the terrible

to

atmosphere of reek and slop and humid heat,

quench their

thirst in

oceans of cold water from the

sparkling runnels that thread the gullies.

Some

of

them, under the fiery impulses of getting on, on, and on, will

march

their fifteen miles per day,

and on arriv-

ing at the Pool at the end of their journey, they will turn round and deliberately curse the land, the climate,

and the people, but never their own Yet,

if I

could take them through such a land as this

in twenty-four hours, they

as

in

frenzy.

idiotic

moist England.

might

live as long in Africa

These are the men

England take cabs and hansoms

to

drive

who a

in

mile;

;

CONGO LA LEMBA.

who

partake largely of beer and

enormously of beef and mutton

hour

brandy

who

;

eat

whose every waking

;

devoted to the consideration of the kind of

is

a lunch or

tiffin

they will take, or to serious medi-

upon the best viands

tations

217

who have

consumed

to be

baths frequently

;

have been inditing scented

for dinner

whose hardest labours letters

friends

to

whose happiest moments have been passed the pretty dames of the theatre.

sudden rush,

and

;

in ogling

Surely, then, this

this frantic pace, these endless climbings

and furious gulpings of water, do not indicate the wisest course

more

to adopt.

It

were

be a

w^ell to

and deliberate in movement than

cool

little

to

en-

courage these wanton and wilful attempts at suicide.

A

few miles beyond we come

and from

this pleasant village

and

right,

and Pallaballa mountain

river.

to

On

its

in

is

atmosphere bland, ;

The

latter

feet, to find our-

feet

above

community of

which another English mission

tlie

groves of

Lemba,

view on our

in our front.

this fortress-like plateau a

planted, lives in peace

reddish loam

la

from Yivi, on a height 1700

natives, in the midst of is

Congo

descend to the Luizi

climb about a thousand

selves five miles tlie sea.

we

Yellala mountain

valley

we have

to

and plenty.

Its airs are cool,

surface of the earth tall trees

crown

it,

is

a rich

affording a

grateful shade; plantations of bananas and clusters of

palms add cool water

to the is

beauty of the scene

found.

the mission' has

its

The native pupils

;

;

and good and

disposition

is

amiable

;

and the old chief Nozo

has erected a lodging-house for strangers, a miniature

188+.

q^^^\

\^

^""''''*

THE CONGO.

218 1884.

walls of which

the

caravanserai,

he has garnished

April.

Congo la Lemba.

with ancicnt chromographs for the amusement of his ,

guests.

We rest

one night amid this respectable community,

and take the road next morning

for Vivi.

about five miles, and from the crest of a

We hill

descend

overlook-

f^_. J—^Jfaaag^TT'T-

VIEW OF MPOZO STATION AND EIVEB FROM

ing Yellala Falls Station,

and

all

we view

VIVI.

the upper Yivi Rapids, Tivi

the well-known features of the locality.

I seat myself, glass in

hand, to scan what improve-

ments have been made during our long absence in the interior

;

and

I confess

with regret that I cease

from the survey, wishing earnestly that out the history of this

unhappy place

T could

fi-om

sponge

my

tablet

VIVI IN NEGLECT.

Were

of facts.

it

possible to do so,

I

219

should be relieved

from a burden of knowledge which infects

my

opinion

of the

Europeans.

specify

which of these from among the many deserve

It

unnecessary to select and

is

the lash of censure for their ineptitude.

the currents of European in the

course of five

mainly by their own But, like him the

some were fixed here

election, others

by appointment.

and brooded and grieved over

sat

I

haunted by so

is

that streamed to Vivi

life

years,

of Carthage,

ruins

memory

who

From among

can only grieve that

many shadows

my

of puerile

manhood, and of figures of youth without substance. I

have wistfully searched

progress

;

one

finite

one small evidence of

for

proof that a strong and willing

soul has attempted to modify the pristine ruggedness

of the place, or wrestled with larity.

Were

it

its

wilfulness of irregu-

but a yard of graded roadway even,

or a rocky obstruction pulverized or removed, I should

be grateful.

But, so far as I can

hut has been thatched.

What

passage of 260 Europeans of the station

my

!

descent to

cross over the

see,

not even a

a poor result after the

all

nationalities

Grieving and sad at heart,

Mpozo Congo

Station, to Vivi.

whence

I

through continue

I take boat,

and

i884.

vivi.

220



THE CONGO.

CHAPTER

XXXIII.

TO OSTEND.

—Vivi in confusion — A cure for sham — Description of the changes at Vivi —General Gordon's probable work — I embark on the Kinsembo — Loango—Sette Gamma— Coast trade — Gaboon Gulf— Fernando Po — The Cameroons — Duke Town—Exploring a great " " river—Native chiefs buying iron houses—Bonny— Lagos — Quetta — Sierra Leone — My arrival in London — Eeport to H.M. the King of the Belgians.

Climate and conduct

Eemoval of the

illness

station

oil

1884.

On

the

vivi,

soil

seemed

Upper Congo to

the marvellous richness of the

have infused something of

its

own

prolific

vigour into the souls of the gallant young gentlemen at

Equator Station, Kinshassa, Leopoldville, Mswata,

and

those

building rility

;

and

of the

presume,

I

if this is true,

hills,

are

so

impressionable

surroundings. I

am

Germany

a

is

are afflicted with continually

that

In England, with

told there

station

then the

ste-

had dwarfed and contracted the

souls of those at the latter station.

who

than

duties

around Yivi, and the hard, stern

soil

naked

profiles of

other

for

detailed

a

desire

with beer

are very

vast

;

and

much

There are people they its

reflect

moist climate,

majority of people to I

their

who

moisten their throats believe

Belgium and

alike in that respect.

But

!

THE STATE OF in

tlie

i884.

palmy Congo

vivi.'

in the moist climate of the

;

land palm-wine

drunk

is

in prodigious quantities

quantity of milk, or

save a small

;

but

we have people who drink but

south of the Zambesi

Well, then, perhaps

water.

221

dry Arab lands we have a people who drink

but rarely

little

VI VI.

it

occasionally

the barrenness of

is

Yivi to which the barrenness of results of five years'

may

labour

On

be attributed

lauding on

its

!

shores I find that the gentlemen

of Yivi have erected a store-room and residence for " beach."

the accountant, close to the

The

material

mostly has been taken from a frame mansion-house, costing £2000, the other portion of which has been

months- about, and

nine

lying

know why

came, or what

it

from Europe informed them

was

and convenience

residents' comfort

one

So the accountant

?

shall

carpenter

may

may have

other fragments of

I

build

ascend the

'years

ago

;

up,

to this

day.

houses

less

and

On

than

fence broken

I

the

that

it

out of it,

;

is

dilapidated

the

rest

possibly it

;

the

hospital

may

rot

was made to

lot

roll

five

my

has remained untouched there are two

hill

the garden

down, the mangoes

oranges and tropic pears are then that

it;

and the

top of the

built

it

have his share of

temporary convenience, I see

Letters

but then, to a

road which

original

for

wagons

a shed

to

for a hotel for the

of people without a leader, of what use can

be

seems

purpose was.

its it

no

now

is

a waste, the

and papaws and large

trees,

but

Nature's work.

The houses look

and unpainted.

There are about twenty-

squalid,

THE CONGO.

222 1884.

five

whites,

most of

not

know

how

whom

appear as

they did

if

April. vivi.

on

they had

business

A

there.

came,

they

earth

what

or

few bear a truculent

scowl on their faces, as though they were labouring

an

under

uncommon

would gladly

shuffle

in

oft'

them

cThote I find

table

load of

all

which

trouble,

some

they

At and when

manner.

assembled,

red wine of Portugal has taken due

effect

the

the

there

is

a strain of vivacity perceptible in their manner, and*

when

the meal

is

finished

Wine and

even in mid-day.

them somnolent.

many

of

them hasten

heat, I observe,

make

do not see any work performed,

I

although perhaps the coloured labourers

something in a

to bed,

may

be doing

manner, since no European

shiftless

is

supervising them.

In the morning, when the matin-bell sounds to muster, I observe there

is

an extraordinary

sick-list;

about thirty-five of the coloured people require boluses, potions and salves force

!



^just

Fearing an epidemic

and

find

is

raging of which

examine more

heard no report, I faces,

thirty per cent, of the entire

— for

rich,

negro

characteristics

and their skins

into

seventeen years amongst

people furnish one with a great respecting

closely

deal of

—that

freely effusing

I

had

their

black

knowledge

the colour

is

the eyes are

oil,

bright also, although the contortions of pain evinced

by

their

features

are

enough

to

veterans from up-river, inured to

models of

discipline,

evoke toil,

pity.

The

and who are

understand a certain signal, and

the steady approach of a dozen of these in martial

CURING SHAM SICKNESS.

223

array attracts the attention of the sick,

tlie

crippled,

who no sooner doctor's window

the choh'cal and the dysenteric patients, see thetn is

coming than with a rush the

Duke Humphrey

cleared.

of Glo'ster's miraculous

cure was only performed on one man, but here were thirty feeble creatures restored

merely looking towards them

a few

at

to

perfect health

men gravely advancing

!

Shocked by the condition of Yivi,

remove

it

by

bodily

paratory to this a

away

to

the larger

I

resolved

to

Pre-

plateau.

new road was made, with an

easy

grade to the Nkusu, which was spanned by a bridge.

We

then lay a Decauville railway between the two

plateaus,

and the work of construction of the new

was commenced.

station

The new Upper Congo steamer having been mantled, was placed on

up the

hills

its

several

wagons and

dis-

rolled

from the landing-place to the plateau, and

Lieutenant Yalcke having returned from his temporary leave of absence, force, to

was

constituted chief of the transport

convey the steamer

Reorganisation of the

Many their

to

staff

Stanley Pool.

was urgently required.

of the Europeans had not

work or of

course, to

their duties.

the fact that

least

This was

all

idea of due, of

the Chief of the Expedition

had been absent, and no to maintain Yivi in order,

number

the

fit

person had appeared able

and

to control such a larjre

of undisciplined whites fresh from their

homes

in all lands.

The following quotations from

letters

to the Pre-

i884.

Vivi.

THE CONGO.

224 the

Association will serve

1884.

sident of

Yi^j'

and several other matters.

to explain

this

" Mr. E. Massey Shaw has been appointed Chief of Vivi Station, and Mr, John Eose Troup Chief of Police. "Major Parmenter, who was the most superior chief of Yivi we have had yet, was obliged to retire owing to domestic matters at home. He was a man of marvellous industry, but the regret of it is that 1 have lost him just as he was restoring this place to order, which needs a strong

man. "Mons. Monet's place of

capabilities are of a very high

the retiring

accountant.

Mons. del

He

order.

Comune

is

fills

the

the Chief

Transport Agent of the Lower Congo, and I feel assured the Expedition His headquarters will be at Boma,

will feel the benefit of this change.

and he will be responsible for all goods received good behaviour of the staff on the steamers."

in future,

and

for the

" Ynri, 23/-d April.

"

Two days ago I reached Yivi, and I have been since in a fever of dismay at what I have seen here. The buildings are precisely as they stood I exempt the accountant's, of course, which does look passin 1882. able. I found twenty -five whites here. The new house, which cost 29,000 francs, is utterly ruined, many sections of it having been employed for I am informed by a humorous person that trivial and pitiful purposes. each of the many chiefs who have retired during the several months that have elapsed since its arrival has expressed boundless thanks for the gift of the timely and munificent donation. What is left of it, hownow will make a small frame-house or cabin tliirty-five feet long. Two events occurred to-day which inform one greatly of the state of mind these young gentlemen are in who have been so long without a leader. ever,

"

One

declares that he will not leave the station, though he has been dis-

missed for four gross offences, and miatters strangely about violence. Another says, Well, I don't care I will go and do that little job at '

;

Boma, then I will go home and explain to the Comite.' " At dinner-time I took advantage of their presence and delivered a lecture to them upon the lamentable state I discovered the station and themselves were in. I sketched out the state of Yivi as I left it, and how I found it. I repeated the dismal tale of changes and scenes that had occurred in my absence. I took tlie trouble of defining what was generally understood by the term duty, and how each was legally and morally bound to perform that which he had contracted to do to the best of his ability. Mine was to execute the orders of the Committee; theirs to abide by their contracts; if they failed to do so they must abide the conseriucnces. " I had arrived at Yivi to bring order out of chaos before leaving the

GENERAL GORDON.

225

tlio Expedition to General Gordon, who will be as little sympathise with indolence and thriftlessuess as I am. " We have been so extremely patient, paternal, and lenient with them, and they have been left so long without a chief, that the conduct of some of them has been most shameful.

cornmaiid of likely to

"

The new steamer ViUe d'Anvers

is

a capital

little

steamer, and exceed-

ingly staunch. If well looked after she will be a great acquisition. " Le Stanley, stern wheeler for the Upper Congo, will be at once dis-

mantled for transport to her destination. " Mons. del Commune has to-day informed me that he has treated successfully with the natives of Boma for the Protectorate. Mons. Kirkhoven has extended our territory until Vivi is now joined to Boma. " Between Nokki and Stanley Pool the sovereignty has been ceded to the Association by the native chiefs. Thus, from Boma to the Lubamba

MOXS. DKL CUMSrUXE.



Eiver on the right bank, and thence north to the Kwilu Niadi, through the efforts of Hanssens, Van de Velde, Destrain, Mickic, Grant Elliott,



and Spencer Burns, the territory is all one intact and from Nokki on the left bank to Stanley Falls. Such places as are already unoccupied on the left bank Hanssens will complete by July. Signor Massari goes up tlie Kwa to perform the same services for our political interests. "While coming down the south bank, I learned enough to satisfy me that three-fourths of the transport required for plished by our enlistments of natives

;

up

river will be accom-

up by north bank Voouda Station, on south bank, will be established to give more employment to the boats on the mid-section of river. ;

the rest will go

as before.

" I beg to enclose copies of the Treaties securing the sovereignty to the

Association of

Vol.

all

the districts between Nokki

IL— 15

and Stanley

Pool,

All

1884. A\n-i\ 26.

Vivi.

TEE CONGO.

226 1884. April 23. Vivi.

has been done that

is

theatre of operations

possible on the Congo,

now

and Europe should be the by

to secure the recognition of the Association

the Powers. "I

am oWiged

to express

my

surprise that in the letter announcing the

immediate departure from Europe of General Gordon instructions are furnished to

me

as to

what

for the

Congo, no

his particular mission is to

be here. It would be desirable in a matter of such importance to be told whether he is to be Chief of the Exjiedition, Director-General, AdminisI have received only a few brief trator, Special Commissioner, &c., &c.

words introducing a man already well known to me. Before turning over the command to him, it would be well for me to know precisely how to address him in clear and distinct phrase. Fiually, the letter* I received

LA

VITJ.K

n'ANVERS STFAMER.

from himself makes it still more diflBcult forme to understand his mission. I gather from him that he has some views hostile to the slave-trade in the Soudan. A very laudable purpose, undoubtedly, but I am not told

" BuussELS,

"My Dear

G//i

January, 1884.

Mr. Stanley,—

me to go out and join you in have gladly assented to, and come from Lisbon on I will serve willingly with and under you, and I hojie vou " His Majesty has asked

your work, which 5th February. will stay on,

I

and wo

will,

God

helloing, kill the slave-traders in their liaunt,

"

GENERAL GORDON'S INTENTIONS. whether we are to abandon

upon Soudanese

and be diverted from onr work of raids

In short, the wliole

the Nile basin.

slave-traders in

make

very mysterions to me.

affair is

As

Con<^o,

extending, and consolidating along this river, to

settling,

"

tlio

227

I

have already intimated to the Committee

in October, 18S2,

January, July, August, 1883, and January. 1884, my intention of leaving the Congo, according to the original understanding at Brussels in 1878, I

have arrived at Vivi, in the strong hope that I should find General Gordon here but I hear by this last mail that he has accepted a com;

mission under the British Government to go to the Soudan. pelled to stay here then until I

am

relieved

by a

fit

I

am com-

person.

" Yivi,

11///

May, 1884.

" Colonel de Winton arrived here a few days ago, since which time he

has been occupied in acquiring the knowledge of the details necessary for comprehending thoroughly the situation. "

Though it is better late than never, I cannot refrain from expressing keen regret tliat such a person as Col. de Winton was not sent fifteen months ago to assist me. " I hope to be able to leave the Congo about the latter part of tl'.is month, by which time Col. de Winton will have understood his duties,

my

and grasped the situation. de Winton, as Chief of the

It will

be well to remember that Sir Francis Lower Congo,

Exj)edition, cannot leave the-

otherwise the troubles of Vivi will

commence

again.

An

occasional

residence at Leopoldville, and an inspection of the intermediate route, will be all that is necessary.

his mission well on the

You may

rely

on Capt. Haussens

" Yivi,

"

The new

fulfilling

Upper Congo,"

station at Yivi

is

advancing rapidly.

June

2i,d,

1884.

Five houses have

been erected, and a banana plantation set out. The bridge is a great A railway connects old Yivi with the new place, though to be completed we ought to have about 500 yards more of rails. " The steamer Le Stinhy is now six miles from here. The hauling success.

whom

force

numbers

269, of

for if

we

where they hunt, and make treaties we can prevent their raids and truly stop the slave-trade, are now engaged with Baker & Co., and so if we can {D. V.)

with the

act together in the countries chiefs,

All the slavers

push on we "

10 per cent, will be daily ailing."

will find the field free.

such efl[icacious means of cutting at root of slave-trade ever was presented as that which God has, I trust, opened out to us through the kind disinterestedness of His Majesty.

No

" Yours sincerely, in haste, "(5/(/ne(0C.

G.Gordon."

188 -^l""''

^

1.

23.

'vi.

TEE CONGO.

228

" 1884.

June

Banana

8.

" I have to inform you that I

Pt. -^j

Qq|

gjj.

left

Banana Point, June

8th, 1884.

Vivi on the 6th of June, accompanied

Francis de Winton. At Boma I saw your new Sanatorium. much the building and its position, and Dr. Allard's

I admire very

devotedness and provision for sick men's comforts deserve great praise. It is really like a respectable hotel."

OAPT. HANSSENS.

On

the

titeamer

10th of

June the

British

and African

Kinsemho departed from Banana Creek north-

ward along

the const, and as

I

had a strong curiosity

to

understand more of West Africa, and to compare

it

with

tlie

a passenger.

Congo banks, 1

I

proceeded with

do not propose to give more

few useful jottings by the way.

lier

as

tlian a

LANDANA.

229

Seven hours' steaming brought us

to

Limdana, a

beautiful place judging irom the external view.

alternate with dark

factories,

From

tation.

peeps

White

green njasses of vege-

summit of a tree-clothed upland

the

out the mission of the French peres, whose

gardens and orchards of fruit-trees are admired by visitors.

The next day at 4 p.m.

we

all

halt at a cluster

LANDANA,

of factories called a certain

Black Point, and

after

amount of produce, pass on

which we reach

at

noon on the

12tli.

receiving

to

Loango,

Here

I receive

reports from the officer in cliarge of the Kwilu-Niadi division.

or

On

Mayomba,

the 13th a fine

we anchor abreast

baylet

open

to

the next day's run brings us to Sette

of

Myumba,

the west, and

Camma,

situate

i884.

u!^^^^^,

THE CONGO.

230 1884 Jane 13

south of a river

jrumba

I'oliing

and pounding

shippers,

who bring

and a young to

called

The

Sette.

the

huge breakers

do

shore

not

deter

the

jauncheons of palm-oil and rubber,

gorilla

The 15th brings us

on board.

Impango, where there

we have now entered On the 16th we arrive

as

a custom-house established,

is

Gaboon

abreast the in

the

Gaboon

colony.

Gulf,

and

ANNORCfJI.^C^^"''^^''

FROM AMI5RIZ TO

TIIK CAMKltOONS.

anchor abreast of the town of that name, which the seat of are

also

three

Government

present in

for the

the

French colony.

roadstead

French men-of-war, four

coast and

a

is

There

guardship and

colliers,

a few small

harbour steamers and lighters.

On

shore,

conspicuously in view, aie three brickbuilt Government buildings,

a

brick

roof, a great pile

church

with

of coal, and the

a

corrugated

iron

commencement of

FERNANDO erection of a

the

stone

pier.

231

PO.

An

irregular line of

ih84.

June

buildings attached to eight or ten factories, a French

an American

and

(Catholic),

(Protestant)

mission,

with a small store or two, and a boarding-house, show us the whole

French settlement established

the

of

Mangoes planted perhaps some

since 1842.

twenty years ago are also conspicuous

sixteen or

for their globes

of dense foliage, and are seen in uniform lines in front of the mission and public buildings. aspect

of the hills

little

place

is

pretty

Altogether the

and agreeable.

The

along the shore, dotted with white houses

and green groves, shining

amid

clear

tropical vege-

tation, assist the general attractiveness of the view.

On

the 18th

we

arrived at Elobey Island (Spanish),

situated at the entrance to the

The

Bay.

island

is

absorb

German and

most of the

Four or

character.

in Corisco

about an hour and a half's march

circumference.

in

River Muni

English

which

trade,

is

all

factories

similar

in

small steamers coast about

five

collecting produce.

From Elobey and

rounding

Islet

Cape

we S.

strike

Juan

west bear

Fernando Po, a

lofty island in the

We

Clarence

anchor

from shore.

in

The

island

to

deep water,

northward

to

Bight of Benin.

Cove, a rifle-shot distance is

called after its discoverer

Fernando-Poo, a Portuguese.

It is

about 600 square

miles in superficial extent, and principally famous for its

the

towering cone, whose summit sea.

is

10,190 feet above

Westward about twenty miles the Mount

Albeit of the Cameroons Mountains begins, and

lifts

15.

Gaboon.

THE CONGO.

232 1884.

Ke'rando ^°"

its

bold outline

to

of

the height

13,800

Po

lower slopes and shores of Fernando of tropical vegetation

;

feet.

The

are a marvel

but the upper tracts appear to

The

inhabitants seem

to be

more degraded and forbidding

in features than

any

have seen in Congo-lands.

be grassy and denuded of trees.

I

The

21st of

June we arrived

Old Calabar or Cross River.

at

This

Duke Town is

in the

said to be one

OLD CALABAR FACTORIES, KEAR DUKE TOWIT.

of the best oil-producing

rivers.

About 500

of palm-oil had been shipped only a arrived,

may

week before we

and there was a freight of 300 casks ready

for the Kinsemho. it

ca.sks

As

a cask weighs about 15 cwt.,

be imagined what tonnage of palm

oil

leaves

this river.

Through the kindness of the traders to

proceed up and "explore"

this

I

oil

was enabled river.

For

EXPLORING AN OIL RIVER.

company

233

had Mr. James Munroe, Dr. Mackenzie,

I

Mr. Albert Gil lis, and Captain Jolly, of the Kinsemho. I

saw Creek Town, and a Scotch mission

We

there.

Avandered amid sea- washed creeks, and then returned to

Duke Town.

The sketch on

Duke Town.

enable the reader to imagine

me was

struck

Upper Congo. in the

En

miniature

its

at night,

ferent to the scenes

suddenly

the

lifted

nothing very

dif-

which the darkness of night

liad

There were the same palms, perpen-

hidden from me.

dicular, inclined, or fallen over

same density of

of

and deposited on the river

should have seen

I

But what

reproduction

Could I have been

Avant

near Ikunitu,

the opposite page will

into the stream; the

the same sweetly green verdure,

forest,

the same rich reddish loam, the same kind of clearings,

and the same architecture of

Town and priceless

Town

Creek

to

me.

I

I

huts.

saw that the residences of the

by

section

result of peaceful barter of palm-oil

too, in

African chiefs

European

window

cTU'tains

style !

!

England, and

and erected here

costing £4000, one £3000, one £2000.

buildings for

Duke

at

observed a sight which was

native chiefs had been constructed in transported section

But

— one

This was the

— corrugated

They were

iron

furnished,

with carpets, chairs, mirrors and

Conquer that horror of the march

from Vivi to the Stanley Pool, and

I

can conceive Ngal-

yema, Makabi, Bankwa, Ibaka, Mangombo, Mugwala,

Mata Bwyki, and a host of Upper Congo

chiefs order-

ing corrugated iron houses and furniture from Europe for their ivory, their palm-oil, tlieir rubber, their

gum^

i884.

Duke Town.

TEE CONGO.

234 1884.

June 24.

Duke

camwood powder, ^ '

.

Duke Town shows now remarkable There

fair trade.

and

',..,.

^

spices. is

orchilla weed,' beeswax, 2:rains

a civuiser

Now

no government here.

is

and then a man-of-war steams up and returns. Consul was absent^ but

lived

all

still

in

The

unity and

concord.

On

the 28th

Bonny

of

Kinsembo anchored in

tlie

The great hulk

River.

by Captain

June

Adriatic,

Bell, lifts its giant form,

commanded

and displays the

magnificent model of one of the old Collins's TransAtlantic steamers.

At Bonny,

also, there

worth £3000, owned by native cluster of factories

on shore

:

are bouses

There

chiefs.

is

a

numbers of old hulks

are in the river, and a prosperous trade seems to keep

every one busy in one of the saddest and most gloomy climates I have ever experienced.

the climate, however,

men.

The

is

now

fear of

vanishing from the minds of

factors live well,

It is the fashion

The great

and in comfortable houses.

to build corrugated iron houses,

framed within with wood, and appropriately furnished.

One

inhabited by

possessed is

a

Mr. Whitehouse,

covered verandah

its

designer had

Another story added, and each story three

feet higher,

with uniform and prudent

conquest would destructive

feet,

11 feet broad, which

as near perfection as the genius of

attained.

50 by 34

be

achieved

life,

and a

fuller

over the vitiated and

atmosphere which clings

to

the

muddy

shores of the rivers in the Bight of Benin.

From Bonny

New

Calabar

River, which River,

we

is

the main channel to

proceed

north-west,

and

FROM THE NIGER

TO OSTEND.

235

anchor on the 2nd of July in the roadstead ten miles off Benin River.

The

BeniuT:,

steamers Blafra^

discovered at anchor.

Dodo, and

While rolling

Formosa, were in the troughs

of large and languid sea- waves undulating shoreward,

CVerttelf

(PorUL^-uSe)

•y-^"!

FROM THE NIGER TO OSTEND.

the produce from

Dodo

the Benin River conveyed by the

M'as transferred to the

rains wetted

i884.

the

gloomy feeling by

Kinsembo, while continued

decks and cargo, and imparted a their tedious

monotony.

The next

THE CONGO.

236

juT*2 Benin R.

^^^y

Loanda appeared from England with

^^-

^'^®

datcs up to the 11th of June.

On

the 5th

we

passed Lagos roadstead, where three

steamers and two saiHng vessels were at anchor, and

on the 6th we arrived

By

Quettah.

off

this time the

Kinsembo, collecting produce at these various small

had been well nigh

ports,

ments

from

by the bountiful ship-

filled

Bonny and

the

Benin Rivers.

River, the main channel of the Niger,

owing

to the inscrutable bye-law^s

steamship

various

news

at

Quettah

did not see,

which govern these

from Liverpool.

lines

a

that

is

we

Nun

man

white

The

local

has

been

sentenced to eighteen months' imprisonment for whip-

ping a negro a

German war

On

the

friend,

the

At Bay Beach we

!

passed the Moice,

vessel, at anchor.

12th

we

at

Sierra

Leone.

My

who

once

mistook

my

arrived

harbour-master,

steamer for a pirate ship, Majesty's coloured subjects

is

still

still

flourishing,

and Her

continue to dwell with

exasperating emphasis on the merits of " this colony."

Captain Jolly, of the Klnsembo, however, the coloured gentlemen of Sierra Leone.

differs

He

from

obtained

a slight hint that there was a pestilence in the town,

and

hastily proceeded to sea after only a three hours'

stoppage, and

we

thus

saw the

last

of the African

continent.

On

the 29th of July the directing managers of the

British

and African Steamship Company kindly

mitted the Kinsembo to land I hastened to

London.

me

at

Four days

23er-

Plymouth, whence later I presented

EFFORT TO

my

E.M.

KING L'EOPOLB.

237

King of the Belgians, summer at Ostend, that the

report to His Majesty the

who was spending

the

mission he had given

Basin was

me

to

perform in the Congo

accomphshed, with vastly greater success

who

than the most sanguine of those gentlemen iii

the Council held at the Royal Palace

ber, 1878, could ever

have anticipated; and

sat

in

Decem-

I

have no

reason to believe that His Majesty was displeased with the results of these long years of bitter labour.

i884.

sien-a

TEE CONGO.

238

CHAPTER XXXIV. EUROPEANS Eiu'opean opinion of African "

propre " and

Amour

Extravagant hopes

life

IN AFRICA.

—Repelled

—" Bah

!

I did not

neglected and prosperous stations

workers

—The

—" Nothing

"

whisky " !

come

of comforts

heroes of labour

for

work "

— Types

of

— Malingering — Unintelligent

—" Sojering — A "

happier theme

—Young — Our j)hysician—

— New

aspirants

search of adventures— A sad accident

plucky Scot

in Africa.

like

—Few

earnest workers of the expedition

officers in

Europeans

by the absence

"susceptibilities "

—The way to gain a good reputation.

When in EuroDG we Were men who •

capable of heroic

believed ourselves

work and immense

effort,

could

we

but have the opportunity of proving our strength, our natural wit, our native valour, our acquired intelligence,

and our fortitude under privations;

we landed

in Africa,

we discovered

when

but, alas!

that most of us

were without nerve, without wit or fortitude

;

that

our streno-th and much, of our native valour on which

we had

prided ourselves had vanished, and that our

acquired

intelligence

was

valueless,

since

we had

never known the practical art of living away from the guardianship and sympathy of our parents privations

confronted us

we

;

and when

completely collapsed."

Such a confession might be truthfully written by some

AFRICAN

LIFE,

239

young men who returned home,

of the

after the dis-

covery that they had simply been seduced by their

and super-fervid imaginations

fancies their

years in their

As

rough

to believe that

experience of a few smoothly gliding

limited

for the

own

own

life

perfect lands

had prepared them

of the pioneer in Equatorial Africa.

they appeared on the Congo, one after another,

singly or in threes, or in larger

grandly proud

ardent,

that

at

which they boasted was about Africa,

it

to far

to be

mettle

of

proved in distant to note

below zero

the topmost altitude of assurance

how

the

last

was an interesting study

sudden or slow descents

observe

groups, supremely

—were

how

the

— often from effected

the exaggerated anticipations,

;

to

by which

they had duped themselves, took quick flight before the revelations of reality. Instead of meeting the usual conveniences of sation,

which they seem

to

have taken

for

civili-

granted

already existed, they found themselves confronted and repelled

comers,

by the task of preparing and by the drudgery and

They were earliest

these toil

it

for

later

involved.

quite prepared to enjoy the labour of the

pioneers,

but they were extremely loth

to

undertake to do for their successors what they had inconsiderately assumed was already accomplished for

themselves.

In the presence of this astonishing revelation I be^an to hear w^ords

and phrases that sounded strangely

because I had been abroad, alone for so that I

had well-nigh forgotten them.

many

to

me,

years

These were

Europeans

THE CONGO.

240 Europeans in Africa.

,

>

.

which

— self-love



" susceptibilities" vanity ? ii* were shot forth like so many delicate antennae,

^'"amour-propre"

f

n

?

^•^

^

and when touched by the imperative necessity of some one being appointed to undertake the work caused them back offended and alarmed

to shrink

was given that

we

it

was

if

their " turn."

a delicate hint Little

discovered that these magnificent

men

by

little

not only

lacked the necessary attainments, but were also most

poor in the spirit of endeavour.

Of

who

those heroes of labour

by intense striving

selves

Europe,

in

distinguished them-

the work-markets of

aspirants for bread or for honour of

much about

in the

my

the

three years I

good fortune

me

I

read so

regret to say

meet many examples.

it

For

may say their number was only And the rest — well, they did not

about four per cent. allow

to

those noble

whom we

annals of industry,

was not first

Of

encountered but a few.

I

to forget their existence.

Can any man have read

this

book

so far as these

pages, and taken into due consideration the character

and nature of our work, without readily perceiving and admitting how very necessary a strong and willing soul

was

to

me

how such by me, how

in the matter of assistance,

would have been honoured and blessed

devoutly I should have admired him for his devotedness,

and courted

of his presence

his

The

;

for

the

vital

value

?

Many Europeans no weakness

company

doubt succumbed from physical

others had simply mistaken their vocation.

influence of the

wine or

beer,

which

at the first

EXTR4VAGANT HOPES.

241

irom Europe had acted on their impulses

offset

.

like Europeans in Africn.

.

the effect of quinine on weakened nerves, soon evaporated in a wineless land, and with their general igno-

rance of adaptation to foreign circumstances, and a steady need of the exhilarating influence of customary stimulants, an unconquerahle depression usurped the

high-blown courage nostalgia,

it

inspired,

and some hypochondria.

which some

called

Many had

also, as

they themselves confessed, come out merely to see the river

their imaginations

;

elephants, lions, buffaloes, tall

had run

riot

amid herds of

and hippopotami, while the

lithe-necked giraffe and the graceful zebra occupied

the foreground of those most unrieal pictures. senses

had

also

been

fired

Their

by the looks of love and ad-

miration cast on them by their sweethearts, as they declared their intention to " go out to the Congo," while

many a

pleasing hour must have been spent as together

they examined the strange equipments, the elephantrifles,

the

penetrative

glowing terms

"Express," and desciibed in

their life in

the far-off

palmy lands

watered by the winding Ikelemba or the mighty Congo.

Thus they had deluded themselves Comite',

as

well

as

tlie

whose Members looked up with eyes of com-

mendation, as the inspired heroes delivered with bated breath their unalterable resolution " to do or die."

But death was slow

to attack the valorous braves

while the do able lay largely extended before them.

The

latter

plainness,

was always present with

its

its

exas23erating

undeniable imperativeness which affronted

their "susceptibilities,"

Vol. it.— in

and ignored

tlieir

titles

and

THE CONGO.

242 Europeans

The

their liglits to distinction.

in Africa.

the

meagre

diet

is

n

^

When

their presumjjtion.

there

stern every-day reality,

i t and the lorbidding t

t

ill hnmbled



i

aspect,

they hear that in this land

neither wine, nor beer, nor comforting cognac

to relieve the

gnawing

distressful

hankering they

more

fered for their usual beverage, their hearts beat feebly

and

;

and they see that those bright African images

beautiful

are replaced

a

dreams of tropic scenery and excitement

by unknown breadths of with

only

exuberant

The hot sun

scrub.

suf-

way through

and

spear-grass

tall

them

dares

roadless regions,

jungly

to the trial of forcing

sucli scarcely penetrable

growth

but

;

the distance and fatigue, seeming to be immense, over-

masters their resolution

;

and, alas

there are no fair

!

maidens with golden hair to admire their noble at doing

and dying.

Conscience, or the prickings of shame, to a few not quite abandoned is

efforts

may

whisper

and shameless, that there

brave work to be performed, and that they

may

experience the colonist's pleasure of seeing the vegetables

and

and plants grow instead of that

fruit-trees

cane grass and jungle "

Bah

I did not

!

to play, to eat,

Comite',"

"

and

now covering come

to

work

the broad acreage. ;

I

came

to receive a big salary

to hunt,

from the

some answer.

Do you

feel

fatigued

?

Try some hot

tea

or

coffee."

"What!"

"Try Congo water! No, thank you my stomach was made for something better than to be a nest for young crocodiles." ;

shriek they.

;

EQUIPMENT OF A STATION.

me

Let

illustrate a

the site of a station.

men

One, who has

few instances.

loudly professed himself to be heroic,

Forty

243

conducted to

is

docile, disciplined

black

Three com-

are delivered over to his control.

panions of white colour are allotted to his assistance.

A

stack of bales of cloth, bags of beads, and

brass-wire to ballast a large boat are given to

enough

him

as

currency to barter, and to put into circulation with the aborigines for provisions such as the country

The

nish. will,

river close

fowls,

which,

;

fur-

if

he

possess will be

sheep and goats are also procurable, and a

;

number

sufficient

of she-goats will supply

white companions with fresh milk

neighbourhood

when

fish

may catch the villages around about among which, doubtless, laying hens

he

found

by swarms with

may

will

sell

;

him and

his

the natives in the

him sweet

which

potatoes,

boiled or fried, roasted or stewed, are nutritious

fields of

cassava are extensive, and

its

edible root

be prepared in a variety of agreeable ways. beans and pumpkins are not

augmented by a

w beaten

fish,

may

a

permit

provided there

is

which,

store of rice, tinned vegetables

densed milk, tinned well

Tomatoes,

difficult to obtain,

flour, besides tea, coffee, butter,

a

and

jam, and con-

meats and soups from Europe,

sumptuous

little

may

diet to be enjoyed,

exertion and personal superin-

tendence directed in the preparation of the food.

To

start the station fairly,

we

build a strong block-

house and a native village before our departure, to

house the whites and their goods. collected,

Milch-goats are

and laying hens are purchased.

The

abori-

Europeans

THE CONGO.

244 Europeans

glnes

invited to a solemn palaver, at which both

'AVQ

in Africa.

...,.,

.

,,

whites and natives are initiated into the groove

ox

social relationship.

The now,

instructions, few

sir,

this

is

and simple,

him

to

are

:

" See

your domain, legitimately acquired.

It

has become, by the power invested in you as chief, your estate,

over which you have absolute control, subject to

none other than myself.

and

in

sole arbiter

your dealings

all

I

must leave you as master Let justice attend

questions.

be kind to your people, for remem-

;

Show me on my return that a fit choice was made when I By industry you may make your place selected you.

ber you are

and

father

their

their

mother.

a model to be followed by others less experienced than yourself;

by due care you may make

the happiest

it

You have sufficient native moneys, and abundant provisions. On this paper you will see place in Africa.

the plan which I wish you to follow." I

am

absent ten months from the scene, but I find on

ray return that the condition of the place

than

when

him created

me an

bright, and, alas

grass

ideal paradise

too florid

!

worse

far

The warm promises made by

I departed.

in

is

an

;

but instead of

ideal, I

see the wild

has overrun our native village, so that

scarcely visible.

structures

Not one house has been added

we had

raised for him.

in a state of siege

;

The

my

it

is

to those

station

is

also

a palisaded circle shows that once

an alarm had bestirred him to spasmodic action beleaguers the garrison

;

;

famine

four days searching far

wide only brings enough to

last a

few hours

;

and

the stores

,

NEGLECTED STATIONS. empty

are

;

The

natives leave

severel}' alone that

What

he

a great contrast

is

Why, how

is

this

very reverse to those glowing!

Good heavens,

?

ruin of a place!" I exclaim. road, the street, the station,

Oh,

is

'*

" I have the honour of course,

not,

on the

stand

send you

to

accepted,

is

a very

is

—the

buried in grass !"

The immaculate and

!

gentleman cannot, and will

which,

this

See the village

this is a too harsh vibration

susceptibilities

his station so

altogether to that beautiful

promises, letters, and reports "

him and

to last

in actual risk of starvation.

it is

How

mine!

ideal of

enough brass rods

there are only

three days.

245

for

fine-fibred

stiff-starched

this.

He

writes

my

resignation

he

is

too

;"

high-

stomached to accept a position where he will be harmful, and which

:

less

would willingly give him, so that

I

he would be powerless for harm.

A The

change of masters brought about a happy station soon

began

There are now large around

The

it

;

to be

flocks of sheep

scores of fowls

table meriu

is

worthy of

as

its

result.

importance.

and goats browsing

and ducks in the fowl-yard.

good as that which might be

A grand

obtained at any second-class hotel in Europe.

market

is

held every morning in the plaza of the station,

where

I

can see the

door.

From

could

purchase fresh native bread every twenty-four

hours.

little

ebon children play at

the assembly of native

The houses devoted

women, 500 persons

to the

accommodation of

the officers are 630 feet of aggregate length

den

is

my

;

the gar-

about 200 acres in extent, where there are 3000

Europeans

246 Europeans banaiifis, 111

THE CONGO.

.

500 papaw-trees, and lime, orange,

Africa.

m

^

.

mango

trees,

.

,

giiava,

and

.

European and

a flourishing condition.

native sweet potatoes, yams, and a variety of vegetables

Nine thousand

are produced in sufficient quantities.

square feet are devoted to a grand esplanade, and the

approach to the station

is

along a broad, clear road.

All these results, with other numerous improvements,

prove the character of the changes which patient

in-

dustry, in conjunction with wakeful diligence, can create in a wilderness.

In the above will be found the type of those externally magnificent creatures

who

suffered

from an

in-

curable hunger for a diet which rustic Africa could not furnish in

its

present stage of undevelopment

were unwilling, despite

fair

On

humours

bilious

and who

wages and bounden duty,

to practise a little exertion to start the

their position.

;

improvement of

the contrary, they allowed unnatural

ferment within them until they

to

became a living eyesore

to their friends

and .a torment

to themselves.

Another type of

The

art

was carried

futile

manhood was

to perfection

every one for weeks, and might

men

is

by one who deceived



so

unnecessary rupture and rage

his skilful

shamming

to

the malingerer.

annoying

— have

to

some

protracted

an indefinite length of time,

had he not voluntarily ended a long period of successful malingering by an abrupt and unexpected resignation.

Nine weeks had

this

cunning

tised his histrionic art to perfection

blandishments had

I

!

of

artist prac-

What

not lavished on the

letter

soothing

first

artful

— MALINGERING.

247

dodger who chose to ply his art on the Congo

number

oi paces

Til i had

during his supposed to several

miles.

ni walked

affliction

my

on

The

?

••

,.

in Africa.

him

to

visits

by computation amounted

The value of the medical

stores,

condensed milk, jam, tmai'malade, butter, soups, wine, biscuits,

which were held in reserve

men who

for

sickened of goat-meat and cassava bread, accompanied

by hourly transitions from heat

to cold

delicacies

which were consumed by

amounted

to

—required

the

this specious rogue,

some hundreds of pounds

When

sterling.

he assumes the air of a convalescent, what promises of

him

What

promotion are not made

to

ments are not held out

him when he adopts the tone

to

?

encourage-

?

How

his

mock

of one being discouraged by protracted sickness strenuously I lay myself out to

dissipate

moodiness and dispute his hypothetic unfitness

when

!

oif

with a letter of resignation

hopes of an early return

it all

!

In few but intelligent phrases he all

And,

the medical luxuries are nearly exhausted, and

signs of worn-out patience are visible, he rounds

told to dismiss

is

to the coast

— something

is

muttered of an unfulfilled contract, services due, excellent

shamming, necessity of caution,

our " artful dodger "

with jacket

off

is

seen at

and sleeves

triangle, &c.

work

rolled

tory contains a good deal of work

up

And

half an hour later, ;

and

fitly

his after his-

done.

Another of these Europeans;, who have troubled me not a

little,

can be best described by an extract from

my

diary dated October 14, 1880. " Poor

man



let

us call

him Frank



Europeans

like all other un-

THE CONGO.

248 Kuropeaus

intelligent

men, regards

lils

beautifully easy

life

on the

Congo as almost unendurable. Were he the sole reporter of his experiences since last November, people would scarcely credit the fact that Africa

many new

plored, so

with

was pretty well

creases in length,

them

discoveries could be furnish

— of the soul-harrowing kind. and seems

to

ex-

His face daily

in-

approach day by day

nearer in resemblance to the melancholy features of

Don

And with

Quixote, which I have seen somewhere.

increasing

length

humour. But

sick

of face

men

there

is

an increasing

are always peevish and grumble,

for entertaining unjust feeling

and are notorious

ill-

towards

their physicians.

"

The

conditions of a healthy enjoyment of

Africa, are very

and

his class.

understood,

little

It is a difficult

the rudiments of the lesson of less task,

I

and the

by 'Frank'

life.

It

is

a most thank-

ungraciously received that

effort is so

visible signs of

whom

counsel was addressed.

They do

not seem to take any interest in what concerns their

owe

They duly acknowledge

that

it is

be prudent and circumspect

;

own

a duty they

and

to themselves to be as careful as possible,

plies,

non-

Rarely have I been encouraged to pro-

ceed by those to

health.

in

thing to impart to them

have been often repelled by the

appreciation.

if at all,

life

to

they are civil in their re-

and are ready with promises of amendment.

But

they never practise what they promise, and that active zeal

and watchful prudence which would seem

one

who

loves his

own

performance appears

to

life I

to

govern

never see exhibited.

The

be too irksome, and neither their

UNINTELLIGENT WORKEItS.

249

intelligence nor their conscience are provoked to assist

them.

remember Frank Pocock

I

expedition,

who must

also,

on the second

my

(almost as the sound of

advice

died away) have been meditating on that step by which lie

lost his life,

and caused

sorrow, each time I thought

me

months a pang of

for

of. his

sad end.

" I have observed also that not only in matters of self-

preservation

is

this

apathy evident, but that

it is

in the every-day duties of the expedition,

present

which they

are pledged to perform, and for which they receive re-

muneration.

Any

and creditably

;

single order they will perform well

but

if I

accompany

it

hope that they will consider

sion of a

with the expres-

it

as a daily duty,

the order becomes at once inoperative, for

it is

never

observed. " If I

box

command

certain camp, and assist

to a

feels

its

a native to convey such and such a

him with

it

until

weight properly balanced on his head,

off

he

he

departs cheerfully, and deposits the box faithfully ac-

cording to the order.

But

if I

add, "

and on your return

take this box also in the same manner," experience has

taught

me

that. I

have tasked his memory or his

gence beyond his capacity,

for I shall

intelli-

undoubtedly be

compelled to await his coming, and repeat the operation of placing a if I tell

to

box on

Europeans,

possess

who

sufficient

his head.

in

In the same manner

Europe would be supposed

intelligence

reasonable order of the kind, to

to

understand

mend

all

sails,

any tar-

paulins, tents, or baggage-covers, the order to do so

is

never observed, but any particular rent in a tarpaulin.

Europeans

THE CONGO.

25Q Europeans

be repaired to

tent, 01 baggage-covei' indicated will

in Africa.



.

^-^

.



Or

satisfaction.

your eye about

-r

i

l

say to such a person

if I

my

-r

'Just cast

:

camp, and see what ought to be

tlie

have discovered that such an order

I

done,'

n

general to be followed

is

too

but any particular order will

;

A

be mechanically obeyed.

promise of promotion, or

higher pay, or a display of tender solicitude, create no

know no motive powerful European or West African abori-

impression, and as yet I

enough

to excite the

gine to distinguish himself by what I

effect

an assiduous

The only people on whom

interest in his work.

words take due

call

my

and create a prolonged impression

are the foreign coloured employes. "

Now,

what may

to

I attribute this absence of intelli-

gent interest in their work which

West Coast

the European and the

Then why does

the climate?

myself? in

I

Europe

it

characteristic of

is

not

native

affect i\lbert

— to

a buoyant

move,

feeling,

to

never otherwise than

an

full

of

life

As

and

But perhaps Frank and others may yet,

"

May

still

"Whereto our health

When To

is

feel

all office

bound

;

nature, being oppressed,

suffer

with the body.

I'll

To take the indisposed and For the sound man."

we are not ourselves commands the mind

forbear

sickly

fit

and

for

action."

be they are not well.

neglect

me

for Albert,

or— Infirmity doth

and

irresistible

for bodily activity,

personal exertion of every description. is

Is it to

admit to enjoying a vitality unusual to

desire to be on the

he

?

strange

"NOTHING LIKE WHISKY." But of

all

251

the rabid absurdities I have encountered

Europeans in Africa,

in the tropics, the preaching of a

merits of intoxicants,

who

nothing

like

that there

is

young

on the

fool

has heard from some old fool

me

whisky, astonishes

Mr. Puifyface, while in a semi-maudlin

state,

most.

has been

heard declaring, in the hearing of our youthful enthuthat

siast,

" after fourteen

the African fever, despite it,

of

years that

all

there

is

nothing

like

it."

It

reminds

me very much

whisky

acquaintance with

may

be said against

after all for the curing

of what I heard in

the ague regions of the South-western States, and recalls to

my memory

inevitable

the South-western saddle-bag witli

whisky-bottle.

after-comers, let

me

But, for

I will

benefit of the

the

West Coast

prove to him and to

all

rise

men

marching as

A

if

known

to

lion as

low

and whisky " topers " have

lived long elsewhere than on the Niger

But

will

few hours hard work or

would lay the lazy

Gin

a dead donkey.

I

from his devotion to whisky,

as " sojerlng."

in the interior

;

spectators that his supposed

but simply to his expertness in the art nautical

of Africa,

show you a sham and a delusion

immunity does not

Show

prick this bloated bubble.

me one of these old bloaters oh and

the

its

you meet him on the African

and the Congo.

coast, a glance at

his shirt or linen, after twelve hours wearing, will tell

the whole truth to

you

as clearly as similar evidence

would be deemed invaluable by a will be able to

police-detective.

You

gauge the amount of bodily exertion he

has been undergoing.

If

it is

free

from stains of body

exudation, then he has been simply " sojering," and

it

THE CONGO.

252 Europeans in Africa.

be difficult to say how long a time must ir> elapse before the liver shows a deadly abcess, or

would

tlieii

it

becomes indurated.

But,

if

you want

to

do humanity

a kindness, trot him out with you on a ten-mile march

through the African wilderness, and then note the

A little war which occurred between traders and me

on the African coast, supplied

lately

details,

which seemed

to be of

result.

iiatives

with valuable

no special interest

to

any

one but to myself, as confirmatory evidences.

With us on the Congo, where men must work, and bodily

movement

is

compulsory, the very atmosphere

seems to be fatally hostile

to the

physique of

pin their faith on whisky, gin, and brandy.

men who They

in-

variably succumb, and are a constant source of expense.

Even of

if

they are not finally buried out of sight and out

memory, they are

so utterly helpless, diseases germi-

nate with such frightful rapidity, symptoms of insanity are numerous

;

mind vacant and body semi-

and, with

paralysed, they are hurried

more vahiable

homeward

substitutes, lest they

more objurgatory phrases on

to

mak6 room

for

draw down a few

Africa,

which should be

justly applied to themselves.

Military

commanders

during their campaigns or

manoeuvres, great journals which have despatched a

body of

special correspondents to report the incidents

attending these campaigns, large firms

who have com-

missioned a number of travellers to secure business,

wealthy companies who own numerous the African coast, will

all

factories

have good reason

the great difference that exists between

to

along

know

man and man,

"LIQUOBING

253

UP."

of those under authority or in their employ.

They

know what hroad lines may be drawn one who " lushes," or " perpetually sips,"

will doubtless

between the

and who seems

to think tliat the

lies in " liquoring up,"

who knows when life

to

sober, earnest worker,

temper the harsher experience of

with a needful sedative or stimulant.

manner

If I in this genial

the last six years,

of

and the

man

whole duty of

making

it

is

allusions to

experience of

most certainly not with a view

any of those who

way, or were returned

to

would be too painful

sufficient

;

my

relate

Europe.

fell

Far from

for

those

it.

by the That

who were

have been the consequences to themselves.

failures

Their o\vn

Nemesis.

sins

If

have in many cases

proved their

any have scented after impurities, or

wallowed in mud, proved incompetent and intemperate, or bristled over with susceptibilities, allowed spleen to

mar

their prospects, or

been indifferent

to their duties,

lacked manliness or were of depraved nature,

say

is

— may their own

It is well,

all I

can

regrets be their reward.

however, for

many

of

them that the

ex-

pedition did not belong to some national government,

otherwise

extreme measures would often liave been

taken to curb the excessive

licentiousness to

some were too prone, and punish severely the

which

many

sins

of omission and commission of which some were guilty.

All

we

could do was to discharge them quickly, to keep

the expedition as pure as possible.

That good order

and quiet prevailed generally was only due rigorous exercise of the sole

means we

to

the

possessed io

Europeans

THE CONGO.

254 Europeans

But had we

enforcG due respect to moral laws. service on the lower river

some superior

in our

capable

officer,

not only of governing men, but also of self-government,

much

me

that shocked and grieved

during the

first

four years would have been impossible.

The

evils of

brandy and soda in India need only to

how

be remembered to prove

pernicious

is

the suicidal

habit of indulgence in drinking alcoholic liquors in hot climates.

The West Coast of Africa

is

much

also too

indebted to the ruin effected by intemperance despite the frequent reprieves

government

— furloughs

service of twelve

But

To

my

it is

months

of

;

and

given by a generous

six

months

only a

after

— valuable lives are destroyed.

belief that the other

extreme

is

unwise.

abstain entirely from drinking wine because intem-

perance

is

inculcate,

madness

by no means what

nor even do

may

suppose that

I endeavour to

recommend what

I

Once we admit

moderation. people

is

I

this last

word,

called

is

irreflective

advocate " liquoring up

moderately at any time, provided the imbiber always keeps within the limits of sobriety.

I

suggest nothing

In the tropics I advise no one during the

of the kind.

hours of daylight to touch liquor, unless a medical 23rescribes a

certain quantity to be taken

absolutely necessary

wine

— should

;

more agreeable,

moderate quantity, that

as soothing to the nerves,

After a

— good

full

it is

red or white

be taken only after sunset, at dinner;

half-a-pint, watered, if

sider as a

that wine

when

man

may

is

what

I con-

be safely taken

and provoking early

sleep.

night's rest one will rise with a clear head,

FAITHFUL OFFICERS. clean tongue, and can as easily do a .

.

255 day's

full

work

in

the tropics as he can in temperate latitudes.

But now

us turn to a happier theme, and en-

let

deavour to show that human nature

There are scores of

vile.

is

not

now on

officers

all

the

weak and

Congo who

are distinguished for their gallantry and moral courage,

and

for the noble virtues of manliness

doing.

It is

and steady well-

a proud and pleasing task to

the unblemished careers of those

early to speak of

who

to

review

served their

it

is

still

many most promising among

too

those

yet remain there.

The

first

who

served his

ably was Albert mariner.

home

full

term well and honour-

Christopherson,

He came

in July 1882.

flotilla

a

young Danish

out in July 1879, and returned

From

the

first

starting of the

from Banana Point to the founding of Mswata

and the discovery of Lake Leopold IL, he

Station

accompanied me. civil

me

who have

term faithfully and with honour, though

Ever prompt

in his deportment,

young man who

in

duty,

uniformly

he proved himself to be a

gloried in his strengtli and enjoyed

his African life intensel}^

The

first

year he could not

impress the foreign African employes with his value^ as the country, to

him

;

its

manners and language, were

all

novel

but as soon as he understood sufficiently the

vocabulary, he was not long before he became a general favourite with our employes, and his frank

hearty manliness

won

manners and

the hearts of the aborigines.

There was no duty such as one of

his capacity could

perform that he did not carry out with willingness and thoroughness.

When

Europeans '"^

1



T

requested to undertake any

dut}^,

Africa.

THE CONGO.

256 Euioiicaus

if

me an

he gave

affirmative

certain code of honour to

—I



lie

seemed to Lave a

which he rehgiously adhered

never had reason to doubt that the work should

he done conformably with the order, barring accidents.

Had

his education

and other attainments been equal

his goodwill, Albert Christopherson

as free from the stupid vice

would to-day have

The young

been in an enviable position.

common

callinir as his constitution

was

Paladin for his strength,

perfect

to

free

to

from

in

fellow

was

most of

his

defect.

A

good humour,

almost boyish in his frankness, he taught the natives to discern in

him from amongst the Europeans a

guileless

friend.*

The next was Captain Anderson, a Scandinavian

He

mariner.

also served a

very movement of

No

this

man was

coloured employe' could

wish to do his level

term of three years.

best.

haul a heavily-weighted

Tlie

a great pleasure to me.

resist, in his

When

presence, the

he lent a hand

wagon up

a steep

hill,

to

his

keen eye glanced along the lines of tugging, panting * I remember one day that a moody Zanzibar! appeared before me to complain of Albert for having stnick him. His lips were swollen and face disfigured, as evidence that something unusual had occurred during my Albert was called, and appeared with his sleeves rolled up absence.

above the elbows— a fair-skinned young giant. " Well, what is this, Albert ? I hear you have been striking this " Yes,

sir,

I have.

This

man had been

man ?*'

boasting to his fellows that he

could tackle me, and he sought an occasion of it, by language and looks of The last time I told defiance, when I told him to be a little more lively.

him

so I gave

him

a

ing attitude, learned

little

me

in a box-

the sailors at Zanzibar, I suppose.

I could

push,

among

when he

at once turned

on

saw that the whole little sport. for a I gave him one Kungurugwa by planned was thing from the shoulder, which felled him. He was some time coming to, and scarcely believe

it,

but, seeing every one else look up, I

he did not try another round."

MR. A.

B.

SWINBURNE, CHIEF OF KINSHASSA STATION.

MR.

SWINBURNE.

A. B.

257

arm and

men, and detected immediately the slack

To

almost despairing owner.

a shout, threw himself forward, and inspired the

company

summit was

at last

to

sprang with

this place he

renewed

by

his gestures

effort, until

the

hill's

While another might

attained.

have stormed and threatened, and become frantic with rage, he merely electrified his spirit of

work

that

was

company by

the healthy

in him.

command

Captain Anderson had been too long in

know

ships not to

the value set

upon honest goodwill

in the performance of duty, consequently he

shirking, and thus left the

Congo

of

w'\\\\

knew no

an unexception-

ably good character, and a more substantial testimonial for excellent service rendered.

The

third

is

Mr. A. B. Swinburne, formerly a student

of Christ's Hospital, London.

one months on the Congo, storekeeper,

Young

as

He

first

now

has

served forty-

as clerk, then as

and afterwards as chief of Isangila

he was, he constructed the

camp

station.

brick store-

first

house above Boma, and was the only station chief

who

could for some years be taught that a vegetable garden

was a valuable adjunct

to

a station.

He

impressed

me

very favourably by his gentleness and his quiet, mild disposition,

by wliich he

effected a

marked impression

on the aborigines in the neighbourhood of His small company grew attached peace, it

and an

grew

to

him

his station.

— there

was

utter absence of jarring in his place, until

to resemble a family circle.

His house afforded

a quiet, cool resting-place for people bound up-river.

The

little

Vol.

decorations and finical " nattiness " bespoke

n.— 17

Europeans

THE CONGO.

258 Europeans

the

yoiiiig"

home

creuture fresh from

in Africa.

,

i

On

i

surrounded by a neat-

his spare bed one could repose

ness which conjured

influences. i

,

up memories of

civilisation.

The Congo canon, with its chill winds, proved at last he was sent to Enghmd to too depressing for him ;

But, after only a lew weeks' stay, he returned

recruit. af^-ain,

bringing with him a large detachment of coloured

Pool in good order.

to Stanley

recruits,

which he led

He was

then appointed to Kinshassa station, and was

the best

young man

that could have been chosen for

the peculiar qualities of sweetness

endeared him

and gentleness, which Being a man who

and white.

to black

to resent native arrogance

had the moral courage not

with pistol shots, the place was

From

safe.

the day he

planted his flag there, noisy clamour and suspicion were

hushed, and the Association had gained an important post through the qualities which alone could have

and maintained * lie

A

letter

it

won

in peace.*

from Mr. Swinburne, January 1885, relates what progress

has made in gardening, which will be interesting to those who wish to

know what may

be grown in Central Africa had only a sufficient variety of seed I could have almost anything here. The ground is really splend'd, and most favourable to European vegetables. A few English potatoes Teuz gave me are in an advanced state. I tried an experiment with them by cutting shoots, and sticking them in the ground and the other day I pulled wyi one, and was astonished :

" If I

;

to find three potatoes of the size of marbles

though they had been carried eschalots are magnificent.

all

the

:

the originals are thriving,

way from England

here.

The

I have also a small field of rice, another of

sorghum, another of Indian corn of prodigious growth. Sugar-cane is abundant. Cabbage, onions, carrots, English turnips, cress, and parsley

and parsnips, have been

tried successfully.

doing wonders at gardening. springing

ments.

A

up almost gardener

visibly. is

The mangoes, Dr. Sims

coming, from

is

At Leopoldville they are oranges, and papaws are

pleased with his coffee experi-

whom

I shall

bog more eeed."

— FRANCOIS FLAMINI.

The T

last of the first pioneers

T

n^^



1

T

259

was Francois Flamini, an

1



1





i his was also a hard-working, striving

Itahan.

a mechanician

who concentrated With

wife and his engine.

'° Africa.

man on his

his affections

the last piece of mechanism,

he proved himself in beautiful harmony, judging by the

happy

results

his love;

him.

:

the senseless iron seemed to respond to

obeyed him,

it

'J'o it

but

it

was not

not do their duty.

seemed

sympathise with

to

he disclosed the fact that he had

I believe

woman who was

a supreme love for a Italy,

it

in far blue-skied

he and

so absorbing that

it

first

time

though

I

possessed a delicate

slight

could

Therefore they laboured lovingly,

affectionately together, without discord or jar. little

For the

engine, which,

and slenderly made, ran smoothly yet

perfectly, while the patient soul of Flamini affectionately

governed

its

Among

motions.

the later arrivals on the

Congo

to

fill

the

void created by desertions and disease there are numerous

aspirants

capacity,

of

superior

rank,

and the equal of the

first

intelligence,

and

pioneers in their

devotion.

When

the International African Association assumed

direction over our affairs in the western part of Africa,

the Comite d'Etudes du

Haut Congo was

displaced by

the Comite' of the Internationale Association du Congo,

which carried on the vast work inaugurated under the auspices of the

d'Etudes du

president and officers

Haut Congo.

Belgian military

officers,

The

first

who, able

of the Comite to arrive

to

Europeans

were

obtain leave,

utiHsed their leave of absence by enlarging their views

THE CONGO.

260 Europeans

,

derived from

lessoiis

witli tlie

in Africa.

.

Africa.

From among

their ranks the worthiest

steadily to the front, "

fit

where," as the English say

to

do anything or go any-

when with

laudation of their

gallant soldiers they close their festivals. at

men advance

I

name

random, not necessarily according to merit

:

these

Captain

Hanssens, Lieuts. Yalcke, Janssen, Parfoury, Grang, Yangele', Coquilhat, Destrain, Dr. Allard, &c.

Captain Hanssens, besides the mechanical duty of

paying exact military obedience, possesses the com-

mendable forward

common fitness

place.

disdains

proving himself above the

His impulse

With

and capacity.

to

to aspire to

a lofty

the numberless

notice

impediments

he has chosen.

to the perfect

show

he was

life

mind he overcomes wearying though

enjoyment of the

to lead,

reflect

and clothed himself with the

circumstances that he would meet,

moral courage.

He

viz.,

pitiful

an honourable

comes amongst us well prepared

to find that as yet there are

captivating menus and

no grand hotels with their

luxurious

chambers.

There-

enters his tent or his thatched cabin and seats

himself between

mud

though he had a a

life

upon the character

only armour that would be proof against the

fore he

his

Before adventuring into the region he

seems to have taken pains to of the

is

unlovely matter of his surroundings, and

the harsh

trivial

spirit of

pioneer.

unknown

If he

walls with a collected dignity as

life-long experience of the is

ordered on

districts to build stations

camp of

an expedition into he sets about

it

in

— CAPTAIN HANS SENS. a workmanlike manner

omits nothing in the

lie

;

randa, from a needle to a

261

rifle

;

and when he departs

the compactness and completeness of his

assurance of his success, and until

we

receive his

happy

was an

Lieut. Yalcke

memo-

column

we hear no more

our

is

of

him

bulletin.

earlier

comer into our ranks

a mere youth from the engineer corps, wherein, strange to say, Captain

Hanssens was

his examiner.

He was

essay in pioneering was but feeble. blast about a

His

first

asked to

dozen rocks that were in the roadway at

Ngoma. He fell sick, and was afterwards put in charge of our first camp at Isangila, where his inexperience of practical details in the conduct of the

camp and

con-

tinued ill-health caused him to be sent back to Yivi.

Kept

there for six

months

to acquire a little

more

experience, he was then permitted to join the advance

He was

party.

taken to Stanley Pool on a reconnais-

sance,

where we learned that a few more

finery

would be a boon, and consequently he was de-

articles of

spatched to Loanda to purchase these, and to return

with them as quickly as possible.

and shipped them

to

He

bought the goods

me, but he himself, falling

ill

again, departed homewards. I

have no further knowledge of him until eighteen

months

manly

later, in

January 1883.

in appearance, and,

I despatch

pelled to

him on a admit

different field, for him,

there

is

and here is

has grown more

though doubting

little

well

He

his ability,

am

com-

him

in a

mission, which I

performed. also,

I

although

try it

is

unusual

an exhibition of intelligence and

Europeai.i

THE CONGO.

262 Europeans

pleasing

in Africa.

wins

Merit

fidelity.

.

sucli a

work

as ours.

;

in a little over

and

change has come the

is

in

man

of

some

two months a wonderful

the most important station of

ov'er

The

Upper Congo.

promotion

•ii-p appointed chiei

which sadly needed

of Le'opoldville, calibre

Lieut.

quick

,,. Valcke

expanding

rising buildings, the

terrace, the utter absence of discord, prove that the

place has found a

fit

master.

from Europeans of poor

diet,

There are no complaints

no murmurs from native

employe's of severity and cruel injustice, nor do I hear of

any controversies with the aborigines.

is

alive with

marketing and innocent chaffering; the assembled

chiefs are in perfect confidence

aboriginal

by his side

The plaza

;

the garden

plots of potatoes

is

green with growing bananas,

and other vegetables

the caravans are

;

regular in their coming and going, and the store-rooms are

filled

with goods and provisions.

Then comes a

different trial.

Yivi, the only

link in an otherwise j)erfect chain of stations,

order for want of a similar faithful agent.

from the lower river show thai there for the presence of

powers to act as presence

is

is

in dis-

The

letters

a crying need

some one possessing firmness and

Lieutenant Yalcke

capacity.

is

weak

my

such that I

is

deputy, and

am

with

selected

the effect of his

enabled to devote

tion to the pressing duties up-river. to his duties at Leopoldville,

full

which by

He this

is

my

atten-

hastened

time

is

the

centre of a large area, and in the district of Stanley

Pool there are three other stations, directed by the presiding officer of the principal station.

Hence

this

LIEUTENANT VALCKE. group

of"

four stations, influencing

square miles,

is

an area of 2000

called the Division of Stanley Pool, the

political interests

of which

importance every day, so ability

263

are becoming of greater

tliat

can be intrusted with

it.

only a person of tried

Lieutenant Valcke

is

LIEUTENANT VALCKK.

therefore appointed Divisional

months

lie

governs

it

Commander.

admirably,

For

five

and executes the

various and manifold duties whicli the government of

such a constantly fermented district implies, wiih precision,

intelligence,

and

unflurried

patience.

From

none of the two scores of chieftains of Bnmbundu,

Europeans

THE CONGO.

264 Europeans

Bateke, aiid Babari do I hear the shghtest whisper of

in Africa.

.

dissatisiaction.

Finally comes

last

By

has arrived.

a fatal accident to Captain Anderson

are deprived of that officer's

Captain Hanssens certain abilities

invaluable services.

appointed to a mission requiring

is

which eminently distinguish him

Therefore Lieutenant Yalcke

is

With

difficult

;

it

sufficient is

alone.

selected for the serious

task of transporting the vessel overland Pool.

The

trial of his abilities.

steamer Le Stanley for the Upper Congo

sectional

we

the

power such a task

to

Stanley

by no means

is

the exasperating tedium of operations

which include the transport of the piece, the oft-repeated

by

sections piece

marching and counter-marching,

the painful care of the countless miscellanea attached to

the steamer (the loss of a single

might lead

many

to

atom of whicli

grave consequences), which, united with

other troublesome manoeuvres,

make

the respon-

attaching to the work most onerous.

sibilities

he was not unequal even to this mission

is

That

proved by

his arrival with the steamer halfway, at last accounts,

to

Stanley

Pool.

qualities that

nor usual

;

He

is

still

very young, but the

have marked him are neither common

and no doubt

this well-deserved recognition

of such merits as he has developed will spur

him on

in

a career which to-day abounds with hope.

Lieutenants

Yangele and Coquilhat are a pair of

most promising young

who have employed officers

in

Belgium

officers of

their

the Belgian army,

"leave" manfully.

will ever

be called u|)on to

Few dis-

— CONGO LIFE VERSUS BARRACK

LIFE.

205

themselves in the manner English Iare called upon to do in the indies and tinguisli

or like

ITT

1*

111

the French

m

in Tonquin, Madagascar,

officers Europeans ^^ Africa. «/>•

Africa,

Tunis and

Algiers, and the Americans in the sjDacious West.

barrack

with

life

all

its

from youth

to old age,

it

A

appears to me,

charms of uniform and military

can-

title,

not offer the advantages and excitements which the

adventurous young and brave crave after with an

in-

LIRUTENANT VANGELE.

may

some

satiable hunger.

It

to be the warders

and armed police of order and peace

in a quiet country like civilised

there

suit the

Belgium

predilection of

;

but,

in

country the literature of adventure

whatever is

diffused,

must be many young men whose hearts beat

high as they read the stirring "

tales

Of moYing accidents by flood and field, 0/ hair-breadth 'scapes i' the imminent deadly breach."

Incipient

chivalry

is

found

breasts, well fired of the

in

numerous youthful

daily routine of marching

THE CONGO.

266 Europeans

froiii

in Africa.

,

bariack to park, and park to barrack, with no

,

.

higner purpose than

from year

from

year,

to

To be

being drilled.

Good heavens! think

drilled

grave

cradle to the

tlie

of some 500 millions of Asiatics,

300 millions of Africans, and 50 millions of Indians

and Pacific Islanders requiring some small share of that drill

which

accomplished a

less

little

is

so lavishly

given to thousands of

who perhaps would

ofticers,

of the training and a

be better for

more of the

little

sight-seeing in the big world without

So the young

officers

came out

speakably excited at the prospect

Like

far interior.

many

idea of the real truth

;

to Africa,

adventures

oi'

others, they

still,

when

They became

realities of

wretched

the

the vain fancies had vv^orth

found

by the grim painful

sobei'ed

diet,

iii

had but a dim

vanished, there w-as enough of sterling in them.

both un-

and the intercourse with

the unlovely natures of thousands of savage brutalised

beings their

among whom they had

putting

to live, often

natural politeness to a hard

With

test.

their

ignorance of native languages, they could only discern the kernels of the humanities which they met.

They

Wa

and M,

had

to learn the

meaning of Ba,

and no sooner had these profound

Ki,

and

studies been mastered

than they were pushed amongst other tribes whose gabble sounded excessively unintelligible

long they were shifted little

by

little

still

;

and before

higher up the river; but

they detected, by the slim knowledge

they had gained, that underneath these crude bronze

masks of

faces

there

beat

warm

impulses

varying

LIEUTENANTS VANGELE AND COQUILHAT. from anger

to joy, hate to friendship.

And

lo

267

!

wliat

Europeans 111

with honest striving and

fast

happy contentment was reached

Now

if

purpose, the goal of in triumph.

gold medals should ever be struck by

tlie

Association to reward industry, Lieut. Yangele' should receive the

first

and Lieut. Coquilhat the second,

for

the construction of the best well-made station on the

Upper Congo.

These two

officers are

the founders of

LIEUTENAKT COQUILHAT.

Equator Station.

To know

the intrinsic value of the

rich land of Africa, visitors cannot begin their estimate until

they see the bananas grow in the

fat soil

around

this station.

An

accident, sad in the extreme, dej^iiN'od

brilliant

young

officer after

mQ

he had shown nearly three

years of assiduous effort to win an honourable for gallantry,

of a

good conduct, and industry.

name

This young-

gentleman was Eugene Janssen, lieutenant in the Royal Belgian Army.

He had come

out as inexperienced as

Alrica.

THE CONGO.

268 Euiopeans

a boj.

Ill

eighteen months he was so far ahead of his

compeers that he was selected to occupy Mswata, near the confluence of the

months

at this place he

mandant, through tliat

Kwa

and the Congo.

had been

so successful as a

com-

his gentle arts of pleasing suasion,

old Grobila, the chief, consulted

he undertook.

After fifteen

He

him

in everything

had become the pet of old and

young, male and female, and his sobriquet, the "AVhite

LIEUTENANT JANSSEN.

Chicken," had been borne up the river for a distance of

500 miles, as the name of one who was the good friend of

all.

The canoes

station, either

hundreds

fastened at the landing-place of his

bound up

who had

down

river, contained

simply halted to say good day to

Nsusu-Mpembe (white

He was

or going

chicken).

requested to build a station a

little

higher up

than Mswata, and to show the Abbe Gruyot a portion of

ground where he might have

erected.

his

mission-house

Their canoes, returning in a hurry

to

Mswata

LIEUTENANT PARFOURY. in the teeth of a gale of wind, foundered

Ganchu's Point, and

botli

the

269

when

opposite

young lieutenant and the

Abbe, with several of the coloured men, were drowned.

One

He

of the most excellent

lived long

tained

all

enough

to

show

the elements that

for intrinsic worth,

men was

Lieut. Parfoury.

that in

make men

him were con-

greatly esteemed

moral bravery, and the indefatig-

able spirit of capacity

;

and

yet, being a little indiscreet

LIEUTENANT PARFOURY.

one day under a burning sun, he was gone from just

as

I

was beginning

number of worthy men

to

feel

comforted at

us,

the

flocking to the standard of the

Association in Africa.

Another estimable, honest soul was Lieut. Grang. For fifty days he lived in the same camp with me, and during this period I had gathered, by the light such close intercourse with

him had given me, that

true^an

;

was

set

in

him

for

I

could count a

every spring within his character

moving by downright honesty

—honest motives,

Europeans

THE CONGO.

270 Europeans in Africa.

and lionest intentions.

In

all his

composition

tliere

.,.,-, T not a gram weight but what was pure manhuess. ,

s-

And

frame was as grand and true as his nature. while

I

was ouly waiting

for a

was tt-

Mis yet,

few finishing touches to

a steamer that was building in the port of Leopold ville, he was too trusty a man to be to take hi in with me



left

behind wlien the Upper Congo was

still

vacant

he forgot something at a camp ten miles from Leopold-

LIEUTENANT GRA^G.

Travelling back in a pelting rain-storm which

ville.

overtook him, he was wetted, and afterwards chilled for ill,

want of an immediate change of clothing. He fell and daily grew worse, and the first grave at Leopold-

ville

was dug

to

bury the remains of

this noble

AUard deserves warm praise from me, most amiable men living, and as one of

Dr. the

painstaking physicians

some men worlc

is

as

it

has been

my

lot to

man.

as one of

the most

meet.

To

necessary as food, and to this

gentleman's active mind any restraint in the pursuit

DB. ALLARD.

of some task

it

had

set

cruel deprivation. to

upon accomplishing would be a

we have been

Fortunately

accommodate him

in

It

lespect

this

Boma

struction of the hospital at gratification to him.

271

was

;

able

and the con-

has been an intense

essential for the general

good of wayworn travellers and such commodious building as

sick officers that

with

this,

its

some

ample

verandah, airy rooms, and civihsed conveniences, should

DR.

be within easy reach of enervated

by

men

distressed

it

would have been most

diffi-

directing the construction.

gone

if,

fatigue, diet.

have found a person on

a labour of

by bodily

by wretched

climate, or reduced

But without Dr. Allard cult to

ALLARD.

ove, and a sick

tlie

Congo capable of

To him, however,

man must

it

was

indeed be far

with Dr. Allard's cheeriness and the pleasant

surroundings of bed, board, and attention, he cannot recover.

deepened

Years of acquaintance with him have but

my

sense of his rare and invaluable qualities.

Europeans

THE CONGO.

272 I slioulcl

Europeans

mention Lieut. Destrain and Mr. Hodister,

in Africa.

of

tlie

liness

Kwilu-Niadi Valley, as further examples of man-

and indefatigability among the Belgians

;

but

have no intimate knowledge of these gentlemen. infer so

much from

the

I

I

number of years they have

•been engaged in the service, from the reports of officers

from that

and from a knowledge of Destrain's

locality

frequent tours of inspection and survey in the valley,

and the value of the

details

which he has furnished

to us.

Among

the later British arrivals

who have been

conspicuous for their capacity and their all-round ness for special fields of labour

premature as yet

— although

it

fit-

would be

to detail at large their services

— are

Captain Seymour Saulez, Major Francis Yetch, Major

Parmenter, Mr. E. Massey Shaw, Mr. Spenser Burns, Mr. John Rose Troup, and Engineer Binnie. Captain

Saulez,

on

Lieutenant Yalcke's

appoint-

command of Le Stanley Transport Force, assumed the command of the Divisional District of ment

to the

He

Stanley Pool.

has been tried

months, but, although the

district

only for a few

was

at

one time the

centre of an adverse effort, he has contrived through his

calm behaviour and consistent, watchful, prudent

conduct to preserve the peace.

Major Yetch port.

To him

is

the chief officer of the Native Trans-

is

intrusted the conveyance of the ten

tons of goods and provisions, sent monthly from Yivi to Stanley Pool along the south bank.

favourite

with

the

natives,

and

tlie

He

is

a greai

most onerous,

BRITISH OFFICERS.

have been uniformly and unexceptionally well

services -

273

rendered.

Every one who has come

contact

in

Parmenter has been impressed by

From some

of manner.

with Major

extreme suavity

his

of those whose evidence

be considered of weight,

may

have learned that he

I

regarded as " a complete gentleman."

To which

is

I

must add the very favourable impressions derived from which

his reports,

venture to say were the

I

fullest

and the most detailed descriptions of events occurring at Yivi that I ever received.

While he was

in

charge

of our lower

courier

a

perfect

every

station,

bore

record of events, written in an excellent, nervous style,

through which to me,

I

and within

felt

my

that

was drawn nearer

Yivi

control.

Personally I have not

had the pleasure of seeing him. Mr. E. Massey Shaw, of London, deserves honourable

my

mention at

hands

for

some months of excellent

governorship of Yivi during a term which, I

fear,

him more pain and anxiety than comfort or For

his

sturdy, calm

had been unfortunate enough

services of

to

is

gave

pleasure.

conduct under distressing

cumstances, this hearty acknowledgment

We

Europeans in Africa.

,

cir-

due him.

have accepted the

an applicant who, through an alleged long

term of service in the United States and latterly as American consul at

was supposed appointment. serious error

to

St.

Navy

formerly,

Paul de Loanda,

be well worthy of this

important

may judge by results, a very was committed by me when I accepted this If one

person and appointed him to Yivi. YoL. II.— 18

After a short, but

THE CONGO.

274 Europeans in Africa.

disastroiis term, .

,

.



,

he was dismissed.

To

repair the

many

.

mischiefs resulting from

mismanagement, and

to restore

confidence in the minds of the panic-stricken natives

and frightened employe's, was a task which successor, its

Mr. Shaw.

to his

Vivi had received such a check in

was slow work, consequently

career that rebuilding

Mr. Shaw has not had a

fair

While expressing

himself.

fell

opportunity to distinguish

my

utter

dissatisfaction

with the state of our principal station on the Congo in April 1884, I entirely absolve Mr. for its condition.

I

Shaw from blame

would rather express

at the visible signs of restored confidence after

my

my

pleasure

which

met

I

loug absence in the interior, and which was

solely due to

Mr. Shaw's excellent temper and method

of treatment. It is

my

belief that in

have a thoroughly good

Mr. John Eose Troup

No

officer.

doubt in a short

time, as opportunities offer, his services will be fully recognised,

may

qualities

and a position

we

more

befitting his superior

be found for him.

Mr. Spenser Burns has unfortunately been out of

immediate control, otherwise ance with him leads

me

my

my

very short acquaint-

to believe

he would have held

a prominent place in the record of notable and worthy pioneers.

And

now, before closing the

worthies on the Congo,

named

I

come

list

of the British

to a little

Scotchman

Binnie, a hero in spirit, and, although physi-

cally not of heroic

courage.

mould, great as the greatest in

Those who read the account of how

I estab-

LEFT ALONE.

275

HsLed Stanley Falls station and

left this

mite of a

iii*ithe very heart of Africa, removed volunteeraii alone 1

1

in

k

r-

f

'

1

a twenty days' journey from the nearest station, and

doomed

to at least six

months' isolation from the sym-

pathetic world, with only the thought of a large

work

before him, while his only companionship had to be

found

among some 1500

barbarians 400 yards off on

the same island, with more than 10,000 within easy

reach of him, will at once acknowledge that the brave heart merits h(mourable notice here.

Though

knew not

he

teered

might be supposed that when he volun-

it

that

" he

against a sea of troubles;" but tears stood in his eyes,

fellow

was

it

was taking

when

arms

at parting the

was a proof that the

little

conscious that he was in a critical

fully

position. I

know

not what his " bringings up "

may have

been,

may have learnt a may be that his feeling

he was a Scotchman, he

but, as

and

prayer in his childhood

;

of loneliness that

evening recalled

first

it

half- forgotten

words, and forced him to his knees in the silence of his

thatched hut. since I

I

saw the

cannot say, for

I

have not seen him

tears in his eyes over a year ago.

But on the steamer's return, the discovered to have done nobly. possessions

;

;

enlarged his

he had been planting and making

and the savage natives round about

acknowledged him as their umpire

He had

man was

he had extended his clearing, and built

an entire village gardens,

little

in all

friend.

him

Binnie was the

arguments, the arbiter in

all

political

FAnopoans •"•Africa.

THE CONGO.

276 Europeans

controversies

— in

was

short, he

general referee in

tlie

the disputes which occurred in the locality.

all

This case of manly endeavour ought surely to be

many

puling fellows

who

friends to curse Africa

and

taken to heart by some of the returned to

to their

homes and

frame excuses for their

which

raises a

own

man from

utter

want of the quality

the low level of incapacity.

Here was an engine-driver who volunteered from his lathe at a Scottish machinis s', and came out to Africa

—by no weight

means a strong man, not quite nine stone in

—to win bread

for his old mother.

men through What had he to

the top rank of proper

bravery of

spirit.

propre " and " susceptibilities"

he heard such fine phrases.

It is

?

A

He

rises to

sheer pluck and

say of

^^

amour

doubtful whether

Scottish machine-shop

is

not the place where one would expect to hear them yet he acts

through a correct

bravely and loyally,

understanding of the term amour propre

He

feels that

in after years,

him with acting

jealous

is



self-respect.

he has given his word to be a true man,

and that no one twit

;

or at any time, can his promise.

So

self-respect that

he

disloyally to

he of his self-honour or

becomes the mainstay of

my

forlorn hope in

an hour

of need.

Germany was

also represented

the best from any land.

by a man equal

to

This was Frederic Drees, a

mechanician, but a very nobleman in working dress.

Quiet and gentlemanly in demeanour, and gentle in language, he seemed to have put on a working garb just to

show how well dignity

befitted honest labour.

GERMAN

He

OFFICEES.

277

never even used rougli language to Lis black

fire- Europeans in Africa

man, and that bilious

is

great praise

if

you know the usual

humours of the avenige engineer.

Throughout

three years of service he performed his duties with the

gravity of a philosopher, the dignity of a gentleman,

and the general

There

an honourable man.

named Lehrman,

gentleman

a

is

cliaracter of

a Croat,

who, by the remarkable power of development that he possesses, has tauglit

from externals. unpromising

me

not to be too rash

in

judging

For certainly no one bore such an

exterior

and

seemed

so

utterly

inex-

perienced as Mr. Lehrman, yet to-day he deservedly

ranks very high in valuable

officer.

my

estimation as a

thoroughly

Energetic, bright, alert in

mind and

body, possessing a fine control over his men, and en-

joying splendid health, no better to take the

Niadi.

It

command

was so

man

could be found

of Phillippeville, on the Kwilu-

no one

isolated in its position that

seemed willing to accept the appointment, but Mr.

Lehrman, seeing the reluctance of

and pre-

others,

viously too modest to obtrude himself upon

my

notice,

me ever since own men, or the

volunteered for the post, and has kept free

from anxiety about himself,

his

natives.

many officers yet deserving of notice. Foremost among them are Lieutenant Liebrechts, Tliere

are

Mr. Monet, and Count Posse.

Their

has scarcely been sufficient yet.

The

must not be too loosely kept. entitled to his hire,

trial,

however,

" roll of honour "

The labourer

is

justly

and the trustworthy agent or

officer

THE CONGO.

278 Europeaus

must

be slighted after full proof of his worthiness.

iiot

in Alrica.

In the above sketches of noble characters, others who

work may

ma}^ aspire after distinction in the fields of

what

discover

special

are

attributes

necessary

honourable mention and are most appreciated.

them

are beautifully and clearly

words of Solomon, the wisest of

man

diligent in his business

?

for

All of

summed up in the men " Seest thou a :

He

shall

stand before

Ivinos

LIEUTENANT LIEBRECHTS.

A

wise Greek said to a friend that " the

a good

reputation

is

endeavour

to

way

to gain

what you

to be

desire to appear."

A men

wise Briton has is

he

t^aid

who cannot

tell

:

"

The most unhappy of

what he

is

going

to do,

all

who

has got no work cut out for him in the world, and does not go into

it.

For woik

is

the grand cure of

the maladies and miseries that ever beset

mankind

honest work which you intend getting done."

all

DILIGENCE IN BUSINESS. Surely each

if

to Ins

279

what the Jew, Greek, and Briton uttered

own

.

nation

.

is

,

.

true, it

must be

-,

/•

also true for

the two hundred and sixty Belgians, British, French,

Germans, Swedes, and Americans who during the six years

those this.

have

who

tried their fortunes

are yet there, and

still

on the Congo.

last

Let

hesitating, think of

Europeans '"^

Africa.

THE CONGO.

280

CHAPTEB XXXY. CLIMATE

— PART

I.

knowledge —A youth's welcome to the tropics, and —Wet flannels and fever—Intemperance — Carelessness in Europe — Inquiry into the causes of sickness at the stations on the Congo — The cases of some of our invalids —The best positions to build upon — Captain Burton's advice, " Beef and beer " — European opinion of Africa compared to African opinion of Eurojje— Banza Manteka: a missionary station — Dangers of low-lying — " pare " — " Observe the native custom "—Sickness not due to miasma— Number of deaths in our Expedition— Instances of how the deaths occurred — Urgent advice to those who wish to thrive in

Value of

reliable

its

results

localities all

fatal

the

Climate— Part

The

trollies.

clearer

I. .

suited

I

can

make

,

.

will be for those

it

this

chapter,

... individuals who,

hetter

.

either

now,

the coming years,

may

or perhaps in the course

of"

have intercourse with the

res-ions

African Equator. There are so

the

under and near the

many wrong and

utterly

absurd conceptions abroad regarding the African climate that

is

it

about time

some one capable of speaking

from experience should utter his opinions bravely and plainly

;

purpose, It

and as it

this book, as

be judged, has

would be incomplete without

its

this chapter.

should be begun with a confession by the author

of having himself lived in

may

Africa, just

ignorantly for

as there are

men along

many

years

.the African

— A TBOPICAL WELCOME. and up the

coast,

nvmg

oil

minute

at this

rivers, the

m

281

Niger and the Congo,

the densest ignorance of the

dangers around them, and of the simple philosophy of living healthily

may

and well amid these dangers.

be presumed, also, that

shall

still

Africa again,

if I live in

be in ignorance of

many

things, despite

accumulated experience of seventeen years.

many

like

others, I

much

has been

indifference,

temerity, so shall

shall

I

and natural

more than frequently scourged

a victim to punishments,

wdienever

as

In the same

my

with the pains and the penalties due to rashness, and

life

past conduct, which has been a com-

pound of ignorance, indolence, ineptitude,

my

But, un-

wisdom of

of the

a man's naturally slow wit can acquire

my

I

have an intense desire and strong

inclination to acquire as

measure as

It

I

be in

dulness,

the future

unconsciously self-inflicted^

trespass

against

the

silent

and

unwritten laws of health.

The young European '•

His mother's

joy, his father's sole delight

That with much

cost, yet

with more care was bred,"

sighing after adventure, volunteers his services, and sails

He

hopefully to the Congo.

is

evidently

in

splendid health on his arrival, but what to do with that

priceless

blessing,

which has been,

bettered by the long sea voyage, he

than

(if

the Darwinian theory

progenitor. the

Congo

He

— at

is

has heard that

least, so

possible,

if

knows no more

right) his long-tailed

it

is

slightly

warm on

the meteorologists say

;

but in

Europe, he smiled at this; thought he could well endure

ciimate-

THE CONOO.

282 Climate— Part

Europe ^

that heat, since

in

summer was

" ever so

I

the ship drops anchor

Still, after

hotter."

m

much

-o

.

1

Banana

Creek, an uncomfortable quantity of perspiration exudes

through the pores of his skin, and the flannels that

were endurable

become almost

at sea

warmth

stepping ashore this

On

intolerable.

increases, the

flannels

absorb the perspiration until they are wet and heavy,

and cling uncomfortably are

full

The underclothes

to his body.

the outward clothing has begun to be damp,

;

and dark streaks along the seams of

his coat

show

that they are actually wet, until in fact he represents

a water-jug covered with wet flannel such as

up

we

sling

in the tropics as a water-cooler.

The youth

innocent of any idea

is

aught should

if

be done by him as a precaution against the furtive of

influences

without

is

the

new

The

climate.

perhaps 105°-110° Fahr.

And now,

cooler in the verandah.

;

temperature

but

will be

it

having; arrived

and

being hospitably invited to take a chair, he gladly accepts the invitation, at the same time

helmet, wiping

doffing his

parboiled face, and fanning

his red,

himself with his pocket kerchief.

He

himself observes

near 25° cooler than outdoors.

that the temperature

is

No

water to a stranger, but wine,

one would

offer

schnapps, beer, gin, seltzer, &c.

See the unsophisticated home-bred youth, how bashfully

he accepts

may he about

Thanks

!

Is

he

not in Congo-land

?

Why

not ape the moustachcd and brave manhood

him !

?

"I

will

take

wine,

if

you

please."

and a glass of black-red Portuguese wine

!

WET FLANNELS AND is

handed

which

to him,

more potent than a

FEVER.

283

after trial lie discovers to be

bottle oi

champagne.

This strong- draught of wine has infused courage in

him

it

;

loss of

He

sits

longer, and becomes interested

the gossip of

tlie

coast,

strangeness. in

and apparent

leads to conviviality

class,

made up

usually

is

which, with

men

of his

of fevers, frivolous localisms,

of crocodiles, or hippos, or " niggers," and such recitals as

would

a

outlast

But

Lapland night.

now

is

it

evening and dinner time.

The

ill-fated

youth has enjoyed his dinner and potent

wine, and a comfortable arm-chair receives his repleted

The night

form. stars

shine

is cool,

but there

brightly,

chilliness in the air,

and gracious, and bland is

was

that he

the

an unaccountable

and the poor young man has long

ngo forgotten the wringing-wet

and could not

;

state of his flannels,

discern, through his verdant experience,

At

like a water-cooler.

last

he seeks the

couch offered him by the hospitable trader, on which

he tosses about

till

In the morning he

and a strange

cockcrow with disturbed dreams. feels

unwell

;

his

tongue

is

lassitude has taken possession of him.

This feeling grows into a nauseous sickness. visited about the time of dejeuner,

with flushed

furred,

face,

and

is

He

is

discovered

watery eyes and a rapid pulse, and

declared to have a fever

Then

there

is

the medicating of the sick

man

in a

rude unskilful way, and a rough but kindly nursing of him.

But the personal attendant

whom

the white

man

is

is

a black negro, to

an absolute stranger.

The

ciimate-

THE CONGO.

284 Climate—

scGHe Gnds after a few days with convalescence perhaps,

and a slow recovery,

when

an extreme

o\\ in

with death,

case,

the hody will he interred at the Point

But no

remains of other unfortunates.

drawn from

any more than

that death

will obtain

Truly

from

it

it

is

the

lesson will he

many

i'rom the

who can

preceding deaths, until those

among

read and learn

this chapter.

extremely discouraging to

that of

feel

young or mature gentlemen who may

the twenty other

have seen this youth, and perhaps enjoyed his society for this one evening, there

an approachable guess

old veteran will

should have

his

left

;

it

mother

a remark that, no doubt, disease

will

remark that

it

make

not one of them can

which cut him

at the real cause

Each

prematurely.

off so

is

;

have

his opinion

:

the

was a pity such a boy another

hazard

will

was some form of organic

another will attribute

to hereditary

it

weak-

De Bloeme and Greshoff and Muller, and several others who came out as boys and One thoughtless throve marvellously on the climate. man will cry out, " Another victim of Africa Cruel, murderous Africa " while one may perhaps venture ness,

and he

will quote

!

!

to

utter his belief that

which,

And

if

so

not very

on



all

truth as the truth

The

it

much

was the Portuguese wine,

diluted,

is

mere surmises, as is

as

bad as brandy

!

far opposite to the

to lying!

fever was caused

in the cold night air.

by

We

sittiiig

in his

know how

a

wet

flannels

young man

in

Europe, returning home in wet clothes, feeling shivery,

may

be attacked with inflammation of the lungs, and,

CARELESSNESS IN EUROPE.

285

despite the most loving attention and highest medical

may

skill,

be carried off

by death.*

young man from a

does not exempt another

if

fresh from

Europe are very prone

their flannels are

to believe that

" wringing wet

made

who

"from violent same dangers

perspiration, they are not liable to the as one

like effect

Strange to say, young

arising from a similar cause.

men

Life in Africa

has been wetted and chilled by a wintry

rain-storm.

On

Europe, however,

return to

their

they have rather inverted their opinions, preferring

sudden exposure of the body when

to believe that a

perspiring to a cold draught

would be

similar experiment

Many

will say that ibis

of judgment occur

twenty cases

One

statement.

a

friend

of mine

in Africa.

incredible, but such errors

There are about

personal knowledge to prove the resulting

case,

lately telegraphed

not so dangerous as a

nevertheless.

my

to

is

is

pneumonia, was

in

from Berlin over died but

a

England, and

to

short

time ago from

inflammation of the lungs, after successfully enduring

work on

several years' J]nglish

friends

Africa through

have

the Congo. also

their rash

lost

I

A

warm

have been a victim

lessness repeatedly, *

coloured

forgetfulness

draughts when, heated by the their rooms.

and though

medical authority in

New York

fact that the "violent exercise

Several

I

of

my

men from of

avoiding

temperature of

to

know

my own well

care-

what the

has lately drawn attention to the

indulged in by 20,000 young people at

the skating rinks every evening has caused an alarming increase of pneumonia, 149 deaths in one week being reported. This exercise induces copious perspiration and fatigue, and, thoughtless of consequences, Ihe young have s-allied out from the rinks to encounter the keen cold blasts.

ciimate-

THE CONGO.

286 Climate— tedious, Part

exasperatiiig

consequences of such thouglit-

will be, an

unlucky abstraction of mind or

I.

less folly •

some hapless oversight has caused me

window

of the

button-holed

me

painful

then comes the tedious catarrh,

;

bionchitis,

patrician of old,

out

or some bore has

;

and

protracted

their

me to exclaim, who denied zealous

tempting

affections,

look

before an open door through which

wind enters

the gusty

the

warm room

of a

to

like the

chest

Roman

duty to his Im-

perator in cold, chilly, feverish Albion, " Ob, England

murderous England!"

cruel,

At

for instance,

Vivi,

will

it

I

man would have

strongest

but

;

would undertake that the

a fever within a few hours,

depend on the condition of the man's system

how severe or how mild

it

will be.

Given

a case, having

blood already impoverished by poor food, with system

sapped and weakened by various

trifling little

African

" colds," the fever that could be inflicted on him might

prove dangerous to all

life,

his fresh blood,

his

while the strongest man, with splendid

physique, and pro-

phylactic precautions, would be sure to regret during five or six

At Yivi truth

let

;

manner

days that he had exposed himself to there

an excellent place to prove the above

some Dr. Koch try "

:

is

Go down

to the

it.

I

Nkusu

landing place, become well heated, briskly

up

spiration hill in

;

hill,

it.

which

will

should say in this Valley, or Yivi perspiring,

walk

no doubt increase your per-

then seat yourself on the brow of the station

a comfortable cane chair, and occupy your

mind

with Fothergill's, Fayrer's, or Lauder Brunton's ex-

CAUSES OF SICKNESS. planati'ons of malaria, say, for

287

an hour, until you are

well chilled, then go to dinner that evening with appetite I

you may."

have suffered during 120

over

what

my

and

fevers, great

long African experience

may have that many

I

hundred before suspecting

suffered over one

of these were preventible in other quinine, and

and

slight,

ways than by taking

preliminary remedies, and that there

its

were other causes productive of fever besides malaria,

and miasma. The

my

last six

Added

experience greatly.

sufferings

years in Africa have enlarged

my own

to

personal

have been those of about 260 Europeans as

ignorant as myself of the causes of these fevers. sick lists of various stations

have been inspected by me,

and the inspection has created a

and

fevers tlian

sickness

another.

I

that fevers were

desire to

were more frequent

rife

one could possibly find

know why

at one place to

discover

at a station near

which no

have been astonished

more

The

sufficient

putrefying vegetation

to account for the sickness.

Old Yivi,

for instance, is situated

on a rocky

plat-

form, with a sudden drainage on three sides, and only

during the rainy season does the wind come from the north-west, where rises the towering mass of Castle

For a distance of forty

Hill.

miles,

between us and the

low ground near Boma, the Congo flows between the rock slopes of two mountain lines, which rise from 200 above

Yet, old Yivi, excepting Manyanga,

to

800

is

the most sickly spot in

list

is

feet

at

all

it.

reliable,

all

and

our possessions,

I personally

if

the sick

suffered

more

ciimate-

TEE CONGO.

288 ClimatePart

vexatious "

little

fevers," at that station than at

any

I.

other.

The

third most unhealthy station

though during the

last

improvement

But

in

it.

the

Le'opoldville,

year there has heen a decided if

our old-fashioned ideas of the

cause of fever were correct,

much

is

it

should have presented a

cleaner health-bill than several of the stations on

Upper Congo, some of which

are situate only about

ten feet above high water, witli perhaps

square miles of black fat loam or sides of

Yet

it.

damp

many hundred forest

on three from

to despatch debilitated persons

upper

Le'opoldville to these

stations, in

apparently un-

healthy situations had the same effect as sending them to a sanatorium of established repute.

Young

of Yorkshire, while at Leopoldville,

seen gradually

becoming cadaverous,

his

is

form becomes

less

his pallid face, white lips,

Glave,

and

less

and dark

rigid

and upright

lines

under the eyes, warn us that he undergoes the

;

common and necessary to unfledged At his own request he is commissioned to

strange vicissitudes

Europeans.

build a station at Lukolela, and the change in two is

simply astounding

— he becomes at

heavier in w^eight, living light is

pliant, vigorous,

action betokens lusty Le'opoldville, I

whisper

that this

is

his

Falls.

is

;

his

every

Lieut. Liebrichts, at

a subject creating great anxiety to me. to the medical

man

another unfit case for Africa.

He

My

in the eyes, his form

life.

are not wanting, but the doctor despair.

least three stone

movement quick

young

my suspicion

is

is

months

is

taken to Bolobo on

return

down

river

is

in charge,

Suggestions

himself inclined to

my way

to

Stanley

haunted by a fear that

INQUIRY INTO SICKNESS.

me

bad news of him await

289

there, instead

of"

which a

manhood greets me, and

magnificent specimen of a wondering gaze from

nil

after

on the steamers,

of ns

something in the tone and manner remind us of our

Why, it is Liebrichls himman, who has a strong grasp, and a

sure-to-be buried friend. self,

a hearty, sleek

bright cheery welcome to

all

of us.

Mr. Swinburne, one of the " faithful expedition, tinually,

is

at

always

Yivi,

"

among

the

ailing, ulcerous or fevei'ish conr

Manyanga, or

Le'opoldville

but

;

being dispatched to Kinshassa on Stanley Pool, only five miles

my

to

above Le'opoldville, he lives eighteen months,

knowledge, without a single attack of indis-

position

—a

constant marvel to his friends, that a low-

lying station like Kinshassa can preserve such a mail

and

alive

well.

r

Lieutenants Yangele and Coquilhat, the builders of

Equator Station, and the vanguard of the Europeans on the Upper Congo, each time we anxiously asked, "

What

" Splendid I" the gallant

thing could be better. us

;

give us a

Do

little coffee

petit verre occasionally for

want

;

health,

our

young

them, are

"

officers cry.

No-

not trouble yourself about

or tea, and enough to have a

our cafe noir

own gardens produce

we two ought

visit

of the climate ?"

to satisfy

all

— that

the

rest.

is all

we

As

for

any one of the

salu-

brity of this region."

When the

I

examine the muster-roll of those along

Upper Congo

twenty-nine

since 1882, I find there

Europeans

Vol. II.— 19

above

have been

Le'opoldville,

out

of

ciimate-

THE CONGO.

290 Climate— "^vliom

two

liave

been drowned and only one died of

and twenty have

sickness,

either served their

three

years' te^"m of service, or are nearly completing their

Only one

term.

through

has resigned

reason

of

severe illness.

Considering that the

furtlier

they have advanced

into the interior, the less ceitain the

of receiving

external

Europeans are

and supply of customary

aid

adjuncts to their economic fare from Europe, the above

statement

is

most creditable to the climate.

Le'opoldville.

improving

its

—which,

since 1883, has been steadily

sanitary condition by the increase of

its

comforts and conveniences, through the enlarged views

which the natives entertain of white men, added immensely greater peans in charge, area,

ability

and experience of the Euro-

— despite the larger extent of cultivated

and the more perfect order and cleanliness of

surroundings,

subject to light

is still

occasionally, althongh they

the

to the

former severity,

waves of sickness

show nothing approaching

which sometimes,

incapacitated one half the

its

number

in

one day,

of whites at the

station.

In the moral atmosphere of Leopold ville there fault to be found.

The conduct of

all

decidedly virtuous and above reproach.

no

is

the people

is

Neither can

they be charged with liberal consumption of the strong

wine or ardent

spirits,

coast, because these tities as to

which are

so

plentiful on

the

cannot be transported in such quan-

permit of such extravagance.

Tlie houses

are large, commodious, cool, airy, well ventilated, and

THE HEALTH OF

wqW

With more

protected against the heat of the sun.

and

labour,

may

291

VI VI.

many

time,

in

improvements

additional

draining and clearing

be effected in

that

all

remains uncleared in the immediate neighbourhood of

Every square yard of clean open ground

the station.

Yet, at the same time,

will be a little gain in health. I

doubt

if it will

ever be perfect in

Vivi, again, to

its

present position.

which the steamers from the seaport

bring constant supplies of necessaries, even luxuries,

never lacks wines or for

spirits,

furniture-equipment of

much

ville, is

and its

is

many degrees

buildings than Le'opold-

inferior for the salubrity of its position.

This cannot be ascribed to the fact that

it

is

nearer

lowlands of the sea-coast than Le'opoldville,

the

to

better,

because Lutete Station, situate on the plateau eighty sea-coast than

miles nearer the

of

tlie

Leopoldville,

is

one

Nor can

healthiest stations on the Congo.

it

be attributed to the fact that immoderate indulgence

wine and

in

spirits

might be charged

to

some that

have disgraced themselves, since the most virtuous

and well-conducted have nearly to the same extent. the

site

of

the

station,

also

suffered,

thougli

not

The rocky composition of the

innumerable

means of

drainage around, the entire absence of anything likely to vitiate

the atmosphere from putrefying vegetation,

render the problem

still

more

difficult to resolve,

with-

out the key to the solution afforded by a comparison of the sick

The

lists

truth

is

and the

positions of each station.

that the sickness of Yivi

is

attributable

and principally

to

its

to various causes, but

first

defective

cHmate-

THE CONGO.

292 Climate— positioii,

being situate on a projection in the neck of a

mountain funnel. The mouth of

this funnel

gapes about

fourteen miles to the Atlantic Ocean, then contracts just

Boma

above

to about a mile in width,

The

about 1300 yards. old station

was

and

pier platform

built projects about

at Vivi to

on which

tlie

300 yards across

this breadth, receiving the cold south-west sea-breeze,

which, blowing a five-knot breeze at Banana,

is

felt

of

the force of fourteen knots at Vivi.

THE FUNNEL-SHAPED GORGE OF THE LOWER CONGO.

Manyang;), another unhealthy station for fortunate position,

still

un-

ordy higlier up the neck of the

Leopoldville again

funnel.

but

is

its

defective, being

is

placed sh'glitly

on the slope of a

hill

bettei',

by whicli

the plateau winds and the upper strata of canon blasts escape, to be diffused over the expanse of Stanley Pool.

Boma it

the

is

superior to Yivi

Congo Vnlley

foi" its

is less

position, because near

confined,

and would be con-

sequently more salubrious were there some drainage of

A SEA-COAST POSITION. the flats aroiina

it

293

Banana Point

effected.

oup*lit to ciimateI'ait

be superior

to

removed, were offensive.

The

the sea and

both, because the bills are it

not so low, and

site consists

its

still

farther

neighboui'hood so

of sea-sand, through which

water percolate underneath

river

the

;

hollows within present malodorous abominations, and

perhaps the absence of strong moral public opinion has conduced to

its

At

past evil repute.

time, a wise expenditure of

the same

money, and good

order,

KintaTnoQ

PLAN TO ILLUSTRATE HOW THE GOUGE DISCHARGES

WINDS AT

ITS

LEOPOLDVILLE.

would greatly improve the point.

It is certain that

chniices of life

a position on the sea coast,

well chosen, with cleanly living, aided the petty details of

life,

is

no worse than mere cold

posure to both that invokes is

by wisdom

it

in

ought not to be more unhealthy

than any other place on the globe heat

on the sandy

its

as cruel to the unprotected



;

because the mere

it is

the careless ex-

malignanc}'

body as

it is

.

The heat

to the

head

I.

THE CONGO.

294 Climate—

of a Europeaii, but so

is

tlie

extreme

It is the

cold.

wise government of conduct that renders both equally harmless.

An

open position then, especially

happy

are

from

all

— that

deposits

is

to say,

surroundings

if its

removed as much

as possible

and deleterious influences of putrefy-

ing vegetable matter, with the

around,

air freely diifused

with careful provision against accidents from the extreme heat, with changes of temperature guarded against

by

the

same precautions that are adopted

in Europe,

with good food, with work to amuse or interest the mind, with due means to check the influences resulting

from such a

total

change in

life

as the tropic climate

demands, and with proper moral conduct, will enable the

European

1 maintain,

hot climate as

to thrive in a

well as in any climate under the sun.

what

Travellers vary in their estimation of for the intending

immigrant

to the tropics.

is

fitting

Captain

Burton, after a brief visit to the Congo, cries out for " Beef and beer."

may

However

be, yet there is

means, that

is

startling at

some truth

in

first

" Beef,"

it.

good substantial nourishing

there be a variety of fresh animal food beef,

mutton, game,

fish

and

potatoes, turnips, cabbages,

sight this

fowl, with

;

food.

by

all

Let

well cooked

vegetables-

beets, carrots

— and

good

bread, butter, jam, tea, or coffee, vv^th all sensible dishes

that the cook's skill can furnish.

Even

althouo-h other

externals are not quite perfect, good food will better

enable one to live and withstand the troubles of climatic

change than bad

food.

But about ''beer"

I

differ.

MODERATION IN FOOD AND DRINK. The English

German

beers are too bihous for Africa,

;

and

I

— claret and

be allowed

—during daylight. it

would be

when you

be,

— abso-

one exception should severe

strain of the

will be compelled to confine your-

your house until the

may

If

after a

completely passed away. effect

—are obtain-

would strongly recommend that these should

lutely never

self to

Madeiras

moderately, witli dinner, and never

be taken

system,

and the

beers are not absohitelj necessary, so long as

red and white wines able

295

effect

produced by

however small

For,

has

it

this

whether a slight exhilaration, or com-

plete intoxication, false

courage that

defy

the direct

emboldens or inspires you with a

it

may

be

sun-heat

fatal, if

you are tempted

to

while under the elevating

influence of the bevej-age.

The Duke of Wellington's of health in India,

is

also applicable to the

know but one

" I

country, and that

is

receipt for the promotion

receipt

good health

for

if possible, to

The

last

is

mind employed,

keep in good humour with the world.

the most

observed, there

in this

to live moderately, to drink little

or no wine, to use exercise, to keep the and,

Congo.

is

diflicult,

for as

you have often

scarcely a good-tempered

man

in

India."

All those officers on the Congo all will

admit that a moderate

who have

life

reflected at

has been proved to

Modera-

be more successful than an immoderate one.

tion in food, as well as in drinking ardent liquor.

To

am

not

drink

little

wine

is

excellent

advice, but

I

yet prepared to admit that total abstinence from wine

ciimatc-

TEE CONGO.

296 Climate— is Part

than

better

temperance, either

Africa

in

or

in

I. .

Employment

Europe.

nrged

and

;

the world living, a

if

a

man

I

have already

can keep in good

humour with

means that he

it

happy

that the world

is

mind

for the

is

good health from wise

in

employment, and

situation, agreeable

pleasant with him.

must be remembered, however, that

Jt

if

man

a

in a

violent state of [)erspiration subjects his unprepared

person to a cold draught of wind while in such a condition, the

fact

that he

and nobly,

will not save

any more than that from a cold and beer

temperate in his

and has always dieted

habits,

"

is

its

it

will save

in Africa

him

richly,

from a

in northern

fever,

Europe

Neither " beef

tedious pains.

and

and

or " beef and brandy," nor all the drugs of the

pharmacopoeia will save him. house

body wisely,

his

him

life

is

if

so unwisely chosen that his

subjected

minute

Or,

to

violent

changes

of

the position of his

body

is

perpetually

— one

temperature-

and the other

in a state of profuse perspiration

minute outdoors without additional clothing, exposed to a chilling blast that closes the pores,

damp

flannel pressed against the

will not avail him.

have returned

to

My

wonder

body is,



and

chills the

his perfect diet

not that so

Europe disheartened

at the

many

weakness

of the resistance their constitutions were able to offer to

the

vicissitudes

which their

ignorance

subjected

own persons to, but at the fact that there are still many who bravely endured all. And, now that so

their

so

much has been

cleared of

to us in Africa, let us try

what was before

how

it

so mysterious

would answer

in well-

SICKNESS AT SIEREA LEONE. drained and well-fed London,

or

297

any other

Enf^lish

Let us heat our sitting-room, until the under-

city.

clothing gets thoroughly soaked with perspiration, then

walk outdoors

and stand on a windy

to a street corner,

day without additional clothing,

morning

for the

Or go

result.

become heated with dancing walk home if,

to a

months of poor

months of

next

London

ball,

crowded room, then

me

honestly

this experience,

you add

the same dress, and

in

in addition to

scribable

in a

till

and wait

tell

diet,

bad cooking, and other inde-

discomforts,

you wonder that the African

many

continent has an evil character, and that so

un-

fortunate pioneers of trade and exploration have left their bones in its earth.

Let future governors of Sierra Leone bear cause in mind, and see

if

tion of their residence, their town.

It

may

this great

they cannot rectify the posi-

and that of the barracks a

be,

new

in

dawn on

light will

them, to the great benefit of themselves and the comfort of their families. I

have said that Yivi owed

its

cipally to its defective position, to

cold blast blowing

south-west.

same

is

station,

I

its

exposure to the

up the mountain funnel from the

have taken Vivi

applicable

unhealthiness prin-

to

as a type

— and

any similarly exposed camp,

town, or city in equatorial Africa.

singular illustration of this

is tiie fact

Another

that in ascending

the Congo, notwithstanding the long array of islands

the

swampy

and shores, and the want of exercise on such

small boats,

we enjoyed

excellent health.

But when

ciimate-

298 cij;n^te—

THE CONGO.

descending the river at

and

full

speed the wind, sharp, cold,

Under

chilling, frequently prostrated us.

in the cabin, or

when

temperature was

warm enough

perspiration, but

when we emerged

shelter,

protected by the bulwarks, the

an insensible

to induce

some duty from

for

behind our shelter, the wind produced that feeling

which ended

in fever.

A glass barrier

down

bodies while piloting the steamers

have saved us from these distressing I

have

said, also, that this

in front of our

river would

attacks.

exposure, and the quick

and frequent transitions we thereby experienced, though the principal, were not the only causes of fever

have

also asserted,

is

effects suffered indirectly

all

I

and proved, that the warm tempera-

ture of equatorial Africa

able,

and

;

not dangerous

through

it

that the

;

ill-

are easily remedi-

provided circumstances will permit

it,

and mostly

other causes are preventable.

Europeans going into Africa are precisely in the same state of ignorance as Central African aborigines to

Europe.

coming

Both commit the gravest imprudences, and

being severe sufferers through their imprudent

they ignorantly blame the country and " Cruel,

murderous Africa

European.

"Deadly and

!

"

its

exclaims the

hateful

cold draught from the open

him with a protracted bronchial I

climate.

northern

Europe!" exclaims

the dark aborigine from the African tropics, first

follies,

window

when

the

or door visits

sickness.

have pointed out our short-comings in judgment,

and the

sick lists at

Boma, Yivi,

Isangila,

Bayneston, and Le'opoldville will prove

my

Manyanga,

words.

But

VALLEY STATIONS. 1

299

must now point out another cause of sickness, .

and numerous calamities

long-suffering

illustrate the

to .

which -purchase experience, although nothing short of dynamital terror moves the majority of mortal

men

to

immediate action. I will

Banza Manteka, a

take

station of the pious,

hard-striving, long-enduring missioners, belonging to

the "Livingstone .Inland

Congo Mission,"

another cause of sickness. like a

It is situate in

hill crest to

drawn exactly

the opposing

On

one

that opposite to the prevailing winds^ access to the valley of

would

say,

cannot

still

their zeal for

and papaw

hill crest,

a

Ntombo

-

however,

side,

it is

open, having

Here, one

Lukuti.

a snug nest, where the howling winds

is

chill to

it

hills.

bisecting the station would be a

mile and a quarter in length.

make

a hollow,

bowl deep sunk in the bosom of enfolding

Perhaps from one line

as a type of

death the pale-faced European

more snug and cosy the poor

and

;

to

fellows in

work have planted gardens of bananas

trees,

whose beautiful fronds and leafage

almost hide the dwelling of these God-serving men.

In the high, exposed places we consider the rainy season as the healthiest.

Some have supposed

so from the greater clearness

sphere

whereas in

are hushed and

it

to be

and purity of the atmo-

fact it is only because the cold

we enjoy an uniform warmth.

this season is the healthiest at

winds

But

if

Yivi and other stations

Congo canon, it is the most unhealthy in hollows these of Banza Manteka and Lukunga stations.

in the

like

After a rain-fall the atmosphere

is

clear

and the sky

ciimatePart I.

THE CONGO.

300 Climate— is Part

During

of an Italian hue.

temporary clearness

this

J.

the atmosphere offers the least obstruction to the direct

power of the sun.

If powerful

on the

hill-tops it

be of baking- heat in these bowl-like hollows.

ing cloud of the

only causes a more profuse perspira-

it

by the confinement

tion

damp

step.

to the

body of the ascend-

warm vapour which

earth,

surges upward from

and encompasses the person

According

the

to

denser or in a mxore heated volume. is

rocky the

insufferably

damp

earth,

heat

blazes

is

it

If

;

tlie

if

neighbour-

face

almost

of wet grass or

an excess of moist, penetrating

warmth, which soon deluges one with

The top

every

either rises in

the

in

and bakes the clothing there

at

nature and quality of the

inorganic bodies in the neighbourhood,

hood

If

used, while increasing the safety from

is

danger above,

It is shot

through the thickest cork-helmet.

forth relentlessly

an umbrella

must

of that swathe of dead grass

but put forth your hand and place

perspiration.

nearly dry,

is it

underneath,

and the astonishing warmth of tP-e moisture, Avhose temperature

is

like that of

by which rapid decay

an oven, will is

illustrate the

means

Have your own

caused in these lands.

you never tested the heat to be found

in

dung-heap at home, even in mid-winter? If you inhaled the stifling atmosphere long you suffered stitution could

endure with impunity.

Banza Manteka

station, the hot,

what no conWell, then, at

muggy, steamy atmo-

sphere rising up with the clouds of moisture, and bear-

ing the deleterious influences upward in a continued, undrifted volume from old decaying grass at the base

— A FATAL

"

PAIiC"

301

of the green shoots, or from decaying leaves gathered ci.mate— *

Part

.

at the base of the beautiful bananas,

to health than life

Europe would

in

on a dunghill be, unless

is

more pernicious

an unfloored house

in

you put a great hot stove

inside to equalise the quantity of malaria

that

inhaled in the sickly hollow of Banza

is

teka.

nicious"

he

to

fever,

severity.

air

Man-

reported that such and such a missionary

It is

was obliged

in the

— bad

go home that

after suffering

a bilious

is,

from a " per-

fever of

A young military officer built a

Nkusu

unusual

native cabin

ravine, near Yivi, in the middle of

romantically called

avenues — " Avenue

" Avenue de Bruxelles

a

Yalcke,"

de "



He had

" pare." '•

Avenue

what

caused

Stanley,"

be formed in this " pare,"

to

and, to enjoy the romance thoroughly, he dwelt in his native chalet to luxuriate

Poor

fellow, he

in

his beautiful romance.

was soon taken

and he died about sixty hours the

Nkusu was

still

ill

of a bilious fever,

This trough of

later.

more confined than

the bowl of

Banza Manteka.

On open

gromid, during the rainy season, the

fuses this pestilential vapour,

and decay.

Movement over

air dif-

heavy with putrefaction

it is

not only a relief from

the dangerous heat from above, but from that which,

when

a person stands

column

to the fnce

still,

rises

up

in a thin, invisible

behind the bulwark of the person.

But some one, hard

to satisfy

and prone

remarks that on open high land there

You cannot

call "

where the face of

is

to doubt,

sickness also.

open high land," a plateau, or plain, it

is

uncleared of

grass and obstructing scrub.

its forests

The grass of the

of

tall

tropics

L

THE CONGO.

302 Climate—

j'g

several feet biglier than the height of a man's person

;

the more confined the cleai'ed area in which you stand the

is,

more unhealthy

is

your

Begin

position.

at the

narrov/ foot-wide path, with the grass from two to five

above your head, with a hot sun glowing burn-

feet

ingly on the earth, and your position will be unendurable

if

you stand

open market-place

still

Advance

long.

in its midst, relief

is

a small

into

instantly

felt.

But could you suppose that you had an area of a few square miles of plain, or gently-rolling land, without

swamp, lagoon, or stagnant body of water, that the dead grass was clean cleared

off,

and only vegetables

and grain growing, that your two-storied house was prepared with windows to admit light, and could

like-

wise admit the cool air without admitting draught, and that the roof projected broad

and ample from

its walls,

your consequent good health would then teach you,

and teach the coming generations, that a

tropic

home

can be made as healthy and as comfortable as any home in 3'our

own

dear native land.

Observe the native custom, and gine teach you by his example.

let

Do

the dark abori-

you, therefore, as

one should expect from your education, improve your surroundings after the elementary lesson derived from his

example has been well acquired.

In what part of the Congo canon do native village after passing Mussuko

eyes on the chart.

All the

banks are abandoned. of the

Congo

?

we

find

a

Let us cast our

way from Mussuko both

On the

shores of that expansion

called Stanley Pool,

we

find

Kintamo,

Kinshassa, Kimbangu, Kimpoko, Mfwa, and Malima,

SITi:S

but these are

OF NATIVE VILLAGES.

peopled by ivory

first

evidences of population

;

have

wlio

traders

Near Mswata

business with the Wy-yarizi River men. are the

303

but as far up as

the boundaries of Bolobo district the people are but

scanty in number along the levels

are

more or

advantages offered

river.

The highland

inhabited according to

less

by the neighbourhood, such

the as

accessibility to water, fertility of soil, presence of shade,

and security from violence. their

Their weak numbers, and

dread of stronger neighbours, have

left

many

things undone that a sanitary inspector would condemn as a neglect cruel to themselves

long, however, as choice

and their

So

families.

was permitted

to

them,

we

observe that they have elected to leave the river and its

banks, and build on the high, comparatively open

plateau and plain.

At Banza Manteka, tration of the

manner

for instance,

in

we have an

which the natives have

illus-

rejected

the unhealthy hollow, and the curious contrast of the

white man's choice.

All around, and within view from

the white man's mission-house, are the groves under

which nestle the native

native village within the hollow

house

is

There

villages. ;

is

only one

but the white man's

almost at the bottom, as though he might be in

possession of a

charm

to drive

away the

gases exhaling from that close inland basin.

foul air

and

Experience

has proved that his charms, his potion and his drugs will not avail the white

man

to contend against such

deadly influences, any more than the fetish absurdities availed the black

man

in his efforts to live there.

ciimate-

THE CONGO.

304 Climate—

Loiiff ^ after

Parti.

had constructed

I .

.

Kintambu

house, the natives of

Le'opoldville's block ^.

,

.

.

distiict

,.

intormed

me

A

oil

that a village once stood on the same spot.

me

palms and pieces of crockery had caused this.

Since I have been enlightened by

and followed up

this

interesting

few

to suspect

my

sick

research

lists,

into

the

causes of the disastrous sickness experienced there,

have

condemned

often

As an

blindness.

myself

excuse

for

my

I

remarkable

could only plead that I was

I

searchino" after a total) v different cause in a diametrically opposite direction.

was searching

I

for things

and

places that bred miasma, such as decaying vegetable bodies, deposits of ooze, stagnant creeks, flat-bottomed gullies, fat

with

damp

alluvium, quick breeding hollows,

rank masses of vegetation, that possible

had a

;

for doctors,

store,

?

is

of malaria,

to

many

— and what wisdom — and pointed out to me

productive of malaria.

river,

their

on a

and

at

I

Tivi

their

the crown of a

hill,

collective

but aggregate expethat such places were

wished to avoid the sources I

built,

540

feet

solid concrete platform of rock,

defy the tropic heat.

tliem, if

books, of which I

gave me the benefit of

wisdom rience

by

might avoid

I

I

constructed

above the

and dared

Manyanga on

and nothing stagnant or malarious

could possibly exist within several days' journey of the station.

But when

my

and fade away, when

white comrades began to droop

their strength, their youth, their

morality, and their imimpeachable virtue seemed of no avail,

I

and death claimed

its

victims one after another,

must admit that utter bewilderment took possession

COLD DBAUGHTS.

At

of me.

lenfi-tli

305

the upper station's extraordinary

my

interest, wliile the

station of Kinshassa, only five miles

from Leopoldville,

good sanitary condition awoke

seemed also

through the entire each I

me

to afford

officer in

a cine

from

charge his reports, and noting clearly as

in a strange

unhealthy.

and passing rapidly

lines of the stations, obtaining

went the position of each,

were

;

By

I

saw that our

stations

comminglement of the healthy and

arranging those in tabular order, a

clearer idea of the

truth

have endeavoured in

j^lain

flashed

upon me.

This I

simple language to convey

to the general understanding of such

men

as

may now

on the Congo, or may choose in future time to

reside

emigrate there, whether as agents of the

new

State,

missionaries, traders, tourists, explorers, agriculturists,

or miners.

Added

to the victims of these cold draughts,

greatly outnumber

all

were those whose con-

others,

by living

stitutions failed

in malarious hollows, followed

by those who led impure and intemperate

by

those

who

with,

and

lives,

next

required more nourishing pabula than

our present circumstances would enable us

them

which

lastly,

those

who

fell

to

supply

through accidents,

caused by carelessness, indolence of mind, unreasoning rashness, natural helplessness,

and constitutional physi-

cal weakness. It is satisfactory to

know

that there has been a re-

markable improvement in the health of the Europeans

who have during Congo. Vol.

the last six years resided on

In glancing over the

XL— 20

lists

of

the

names on the

ciimate-

THE CONGO.

30G Climate— niuster-roU Part

of those wliites

who

Europe breathing

left

I

undying valour, and high courage,

I

find that

up

to the

present date no less than 263 have arrived on the banks

of the great African river as follows:

Nationalities of the

Agents engaged.

Number.

Nationalities of the

Agents engaged.

Americans

6

French

Arab

1

Gennan

Austrians Belgians

5

81

Italian

3 2

6

Swedish

Dutch

3

Swiss

Year.

80

6

32

Portuguese

Danish

English

Number.

37 1

263

CAUSES OF SICKNESS.

They were

original physical weakness.

prime of

307 all

men

in the

Fatigue, want of proper nourishment,

life.

exposure to the sun, inveterate intemperance in a few

with the ignorance of conduct of

cases, in conjuction life

in the tropics,

which

chapter, and which

I strive

combat

to

pardonable, since

is

been guilty, were the causes which led to 1

in this

we have

all

this mortality.

do not wish to offend the susceptibilities of sorrowing

relatives,

therefore

my

tunates, but

name

will not

I

duty

first

the rash unfor-

to the living,

is

must warn against committing

whom

leading to

follies

I

self-

destruction.

A

European, proficient in his duties, willing and

devoted after nearly two years' successful work with the expedition, during which

voyage up

health, returns from a falls sick is

cured,

relapse. to cure

he enjoys unusually good

In a few days

of a mild form of dysentery.

when

Two him

througli

medical

men use

their utmost endeavours

many weeks

given to him, and he recovers strength enough able to be

conveyed

to

the

more hopeful

condition,

and

the hospital,

declared

is

same evening,

in

tlie

fit

is

He

coast.

to

is

be

arrives in a

few days' stay at

after a

to proceed to

Europe.

That

absence of the nurse, he barters a

coat for a bottle of gin, drinks

afterwards he

it

some strange cause he has a

the best attention during

;

and suddenly

river,

it,

and twelve hours

buried at Boma.

Another, by being kept up river, serves three years admirably,

is

sent

home with honours,

while for another period of service

returns after a at

higher

pay.

ciimatePart I.

THE CONGO.

308

But meantime some unaccountable

for

thirst

ardent

has possessed him, and a few days after his

spirits

arrival he falls overboard into the river while intoxicated,

and

is

drowned.

Another appears on the Congo with a character proficiency and steadiness, but within

commencing work, he

is

two months

after

discovered dead, sitting behind

a shed with an empty liquor bottle at his

Two

for

feet.

friends visit the coast,

go on board the mail

steamer, hob-nob socially, and

depart for the shore.

Both are taken

seriously

but fortunately recover,

ill,

One

remaining, however, very emaciated and weak. departs

Madeira and

for

lives

to tell

the tale

;

the

other, on the first evening of his convalescence, indulges

much

in the potent wine, sits out too late in the

nig'ht-air,

becomes a victim to tetanus, and dies in

too

excruciating agony.

Two

friends

meet

in the interior.

One has a

of Burgundy, another a bottle of Cognac, to dine to2:ether to celebrate the event.

hour they

sit

and

coast-bound friend

talk, and, I

departs,

the

bottle

They agree Until a late

suppose, drink.

The

other resumes

work

By-and-by the smi appears powerful, with

and duty.

a merciless burning strength

— the young

man

is

sud-

denly stricken down, conveyed to the nearest station,

and twelve hours afterwards

is

buried.

It is not necessary to recite other illustrations of the

incidents which

enemies.

In

indifference,

show how men become

all

their

own

w^orst

lands there are instances of suicidal

and gross recklessness of the consequences

— VIOLENT TRANSITIONS.

To many preaching

resulting from misconduct.

but

little

;

309 avails

come people may

therefore for ages yet to

expect to hear of such lamentable and premature deaths.

Were

there a moral society formed to critically inquire

into the fatal cases along the African coast, a fearful

catalogue of

human

frailties

might be published, and

would then be discovered that much that to the climate

ought justly

to

it

attributed

is

be ascribed to far different

causes.

But

if

any young men now

there are

Europe

in

destined to spend a portion of their lives on the Congo, let

them remember

— in

what

addition to

already

is

written about the inconveniences arising from circum-

beyond

stances

their control, such as

from unhealthy

sites

which, as in the case of Yivi, were compulsory

that

by exposure

to

any

cool temperature after violent

exercise and copious perspiration, or

by a draught

after leaving a

warm

are comparatively able they

may

be,

inconveniences.

stand

these

violent

all

rooms

however agree-

constitutions are able to withtransitions

from open

warm

pores

to

temperature to

chill.

The philosophy

of this

is,

that the high temperature

induced by exercise under a hot sun resting,



chilled

unnecessarily increase these

closed pores, or from equable

sudden

warm room

in the tropics,

— they

Few

by getting

is

soon cooled on

and the excessive perspiration has reduced the

normal temperature of the body in the same manner as water in a porous vessel to the sun's rays

is

sooner cooled

when exposed

by the evaporation which

is

at once

ciimate-

310

^pllru~

THE CONGO.

when

started

the

humid

of the cooler feels

surface

Water thus exposed becomes but the physical system of a man by

the effect of the heat.

agreeably cool,

the same process becomes deranged

;

the perspiration

stopped, the pores are closed, and the body feels

is

disagreeably

garments have

If the woollen

chilly.

become wetted by perspiration,

rain,

dew, or some

accident in the water, the process of deranging the

system

much more

is

Exposure

rapid.

to

the

sun

causes the moisture on the garments to evaporate, and

same time conducts the normal heat from the

at the

body, leaving the reason

You may now see factory-men, and traders, who

a prey to disease.

it

why

clerks,

rarely take exercise in the hot sunshine, can better health

list

exposed during

all

the descent and perspiration,

than Yivi

officers,

show a

who have been

hours to the sun in a hilly position, ascent

of

which provoked unusual

and subjected them

to continual

and ex-

traordinary effects of the organic functions.

Now

another prime cause, which

of fevers cent,

all

the

isles,

Boma and Banana, and pest.

river, passing over

directly in the track

Eesidences placed to leeward of this it

without some bar-

rier or shelter, are liable to be visited it

by Dr.

tainting the air of all

lie

draught, and openly exposed to

which

that 90 per

swamps, and black mud deposits

more healthy uplands that

of the

is

discovered

Danckelman, blow from seaward up

between

also remediable,

along the Congo cnnon,

of the winds, as has been

the miasmatic

is

engenders.

The

by the

best protection

disease

against

it

;

ADVANTAGE OF TREE PLANTING. is

the planting of trees a

little

serve as a screen, and to attract the foliage

Watson

even a hedge

;

311

distance in front

tiie

miasma

to

them by

to

supposed by Sir Thomas

is

to be better than nothing.

Thomas

Sir

advises cultivation of the soil in front, and

also

if possible

around, the residence. Prevention,

it

said,

is

is

better

than cure

all,

and

you how

profess to be able, not perhaps to teach

prevent

;

I

to

but at least to reduce many, of these

tedious illnesses to which the carelessness and ignor-

man in Africa makes him being so new and novel to you,

ance of the white

so liable.

The

as yours

is

climate

to the

but

pure African, this ignorance

now

that your reasoning powers

you

directed, the longer

you

will be

able

Shakespeare, "

is

pardonable

are

properly

live in the tropics the better

to appreciate the

To a wise man

all

grand maxim of

places on this earth

are ports and happy havens."

But those who seek

wanton

to

self-destruction

commit deliberate

suicide

and

through the insane practice

of hob-nobbing with every vinous friend they meet, I

cannot pity.

any wine,

Nay,

I

solemnly warn them that to drink

liquor, or other intoxicating beverage, in

a tropical country during the day, except

when

ministered under the direction of medical

authority,

is

the height of a folly that

health,

and consequently

is

ad-

dangerous to sound

to all bodily enjoyment.

ciimate-

TEE CONGO.

312

CHAPTER XXXVI. CLIMATE.

—PART

II.

— Definition of heat— Cold— Exposure —Equable temperature of the body— Temperature in South America — Inequality of the Congo climate — Long " marches and gulps of cold water —A cool place — " He only jokjng — " The White Man's Grave "— Advice to doctors — Food and drink Daily — Medicine — Diseases—Meteorological Tables.

Dr. von. Danckelman's observations

— Advantage

of awnings

is

life

ClimatePart

II.

An" intending emigrant from Wasco County, in far

Oregon, has sent

me

the following questions, and

glad to receive them, since they afford

me

am

a reason for

information collated with

popularising the

I

vast

in-

dustry by Dr, von Danckelman during his stay at one of the

Those who

on the Lower Congo.

stations

prefer to study the scientific brochure in the original

must be referred

to

the "

tions Meteorologiques,

Memoire sur

les

Observa-

sur la Climatologie de la Cote

sud-ouest d'Afrique en ge'neral, par A. von Danckelman,

Dr. Phil. Berlin

The emigrant

:

A. Asher

et Cie.

says :—

" Will you please give information as to tions, general health,

1884." *

and adaptation

soil,

to the

climate, natural produc-

wants of the

civilised

white

people ? *

The

any one

full

and copious index attached to these volumes will enable amount and variety of information contained

to discover the

within the

text.

— DR.

VON DANCKELMAN^S OPINIONS.

"Please give us the average distributed

rainfall,

how many months

;

wet,

how many

the Tsetse

fly,

fall

and farming

Is the country good for stock-raising

inches,

and how many dry

inches of rain falls each month, and do(3S rain

313

;

and how how many

gently or in torrents?

?

Is that African pest

that kills stock, found in the Great Interior Basin

How

kinds of stock have you?

agriculture carried on,

is

climatePart If.

?

What

and what

and vegetables are grown ? Have you plenty of timber, and what varieties that is and will be valuable ? ])o you have severe winds and thunderstorms ? Is Africa very hot ? Please state the greatest heat, and whether great heat continues long, and please give the temperature throughout the year. Are the natives favourable to the whites settling in their country ? How can one procure land from them or the International Association to get genuine title, and at Avhat cost per acre, section, or league ? "What tax is there on the citizen or the settler ? Are varieties of grain

there

many poisonous

reptiles or very

and wild fowls plenty, and

fishes,

of

dangerous wild beasts ?

what kinds

Is game,

Does the Association

?

wish to encourage immigration ? " Please give state

names

of stations of the International Association,

whether on a river or

and

in the valley or jilains, or in the

lake,

mountains."

Another

inquisitive person,

who

probably has an idea

that his constitution could stand the

me

asks

"

What

As perhaps convey

kind of a heat

is

that of the

the observations of Dr.

to such

Congo climate Congo

" ?

Danckehnan may

an inquirer but an imperfect idea of

the subject, I cannot do better than reprint the very

popular definitions of heat given by James Bruce, the traveller.

He

writes

:

It is warm when a man, so clothed, does not sweat when at upon moderate motion, perspires and cools again. " No. 2. It is hot when a man perspires while at rest, and excessively on moderate motion.

" No.

1.

rest, but,

" No.

3.

It is very hot

much though " No. sively,

4.

It is excessively hot

when

a f ver. " No. 5. It faint

when a man with

thin or

little

clothing perspires

at rest.

motion

all

is

is

extremely hot,

comes on, a

when a man

painful,

straitness is

in his shirt perspires exces-

and the knees

when

the strength

feel feeble, as if after

fails,

found in the temples, as

if

a disposition to a small cord

was



THE CONGO.

314

tight around the head, the voice impaired, the skin dry, and the From 70° to 78° head seems more than ordinarily large and light. Fahrenheit is cool, from IT to 92" temperate at 92" begins warm. The degree of the thermometer conveys this very inadequately."

arawn

;

"With such very clear definitions

it

will not be

diffi-

cult for the rustic reader to understand the quality of

the

The mean of

Congo.

heat of the

observations of temperature

clothes suitable for work, an as

much work on

the

Congo

only 90° Fahrenheit,

is

while the mean of the lowest

highest

the

is

Clad in

only 67°.

European could perform as he could in England,

The

provided a roof or awning was above his head.

heat of the sun on a clear day rises from 100° to 115°,

which

is

naturally dangerous

and exposes himself is

a person stands

if

On

to its influence.

the

it

be recuperated rapidly in a

Congo.

Hence

in all

it

But

excites violent perspiration,

consequent prostration and loss of energy to

march

not to be feared for immediate fatal results.

though not immediate,

still

my

little

new country

African records

observed that I have confined

my

marches

likely

like the

it

will be

to the early

morning; between 6 a.m. and 11 a.m.

For three months of the year and during the

and the heat breezes,

that

it

is

positively cold,

rest of the year there is so is

we

so

much

cloud,

tempered by the South Atlantic

seldom

suffer

from

its

intensity.

After a rainstorm which has cleared the atmosphere,

exposure to the direct force of the sun-heat would soon

prove the power of the equatorial sun.

The nights

are cool, sometimes even cold, and a blanket

short time,

felt to

is,

be indispensable for comfort.

after a

BANGEES OF EXPOSURE.

At

'

exposure

ibr

a double thickness

;

no

factories,' there is

the stations, missions,' or

necessity

315

the

to

umbrella affords ample covering, and there are few localities

where the shade of a

tree

is

not conveniently

near while superintending the out-door work.

Euro-

pean artisans would not be compelled

them-

on rare

selves excef)t

can be too great

occasions

;

to expose

but no precautions

The

they prevent sunstrokes.

if

car-

penter, boat-builder, blacksmith, engineer, stone-mason, bricklayer,

and

such craftsmen, would

all

under sheds, where there

l^e

European

absolute safety.

is

working

labourers or navvies are not and will not be needed. If

any

workman

skilled

labour as blasting,

may

enemy

protection against sible,

to the

its

movable sheds. European.

is

the safest, but

it

is

The

;

duty

The sun

is

raise a safe

is

always pos-

factory

clerk's

not infrequently dan-

gerous from other than climatic causes. sionary mIso ought to be safe

first

To

malign influences

though seldom practised

position

road-making, in such

ever be required, the

will be the coi;strnction of

the only real

for

The mis-

but before he arrives at

his destination lie has generally strained his strength

by insane pedestrian

exercise and exploration of the

depths of gi-assy tunnels,

Turkish bath bears no march,

too,

to

comparison.

he has several times

cold water, and has

which the heat of a

filled his

In one day's

stomach with

undergone numerous transitions

and variations of temperature, the mean of which may

amount

to 40° Fahrenheit.

Bruce's No.

1

definition of

warmth

describes the

^'j'^f^'^r

Part

II.

THE CONGO.

316 Climate—

When

Congo

climate.

tion

imperceptible.

is

up and down

hill,

all

the body

is

at rest the perspira

But violent

exercise, travelling

powerful exertions under the

direct action of the sun, soon force copious perspiration.

In

itself this

when hastening

incurred

and coolness

for relief

shade of a tree or a verandah less

The danger

might not be dangerous.

is

is

—the

sought, and the heed-

exposure to the cold winds chills the clothing and

the body suddenly, effectually closing the pores of the skin, to the utter

Immunity from

derangement of the system. these derangements can easily be ob-

tained by the resident of a station, mission, factory, plantation, or farm,

by remembering

to

keep the temIn hotter

perature of the body as equable as possible.

portions of the globe, such as at Para, under the South

American equator, where the variation

is

only 9° Fah-

renheit, the temperature renders tbe climate valuable

to invalids

and conducive to old age.

Observations of the Para temperature, by a Mr.

show during the months of June, July, and

Norris,

August, a mean temperature for June 80°, highest, 86°, lowest, 77°; July, mean, 80°, highest, 86°, lowest, 77°; for

August,

Edwards by heat

81°, highest,

says, " Moreover,

at night,

86,

lowest,

77°.

W. H.

we were never incommoded

and invariably

slept

under a blanket.

This equality of temperature renders the climate of

Para peculiarly favourable life is

as

high as in tbe

to health.

city of

New

The average of

York."

It is the inequality of the climate of the

must be guarded against.

Congo

that

If the resident pays less

TEMPEBA TURE. attention to malaria

more

317

and miasma, and devotes himself

to the study of preserving his system against the

pernicious influences of these excessive variations of

temperature, he need entertain but

A book might

Congo. one

Who

fact.

travels will

pedition

wonder now

the

the

He

marches

over thirty

is

plunges into the grassy ravines

temperature

hill slope,

at the fatal results of his ex-

of his day's

miles in length!

when

be written illustrative of this

that will visit the scene of Tuckey's

One

?

fear of the

little

and the

is

about

sun's heat

He breasts He strides

110^. 115o.

is

across the scorching plateaus into the depths of grassy

tunnels

;

he descends to another ravine, at the bottom

of which there

is

a rivulet of clear cold water which

With

indicates 69°.

his

stomach

he again cHmbs a steep slope a sun-heat approaching

600

near which there

hill

tree

where the temperature

feet higher,

its

an angle of 45°, under

to 115". to arrive at the

of a

himself under

at

of this cold water

full

72°.

is

a shady

Here he

The wind

grateful shelter.

chilled flannel against his

is

summit

heated body

rests

forces his

but having

;

rested he again starts on his dreadful journey, to expose

himself several times during the day to these incredible transitions.

Late at night, 9 p.m., he arrives, worn

out with the excessive strains to which his system has

been subjected, and implores shelter at a native village.

Out of our 250 people

w^e

know

performed the same extraordinary like

of

Tuckey and

all

his companions,

earthly penalties, and

it

is

several

who have

feats

but they,

;

have paid the sad

to

last

think that

ciimate-

TEE CONGO.

318

away

chmate— ihej bavG giveii Part

their lives

through avoidable

II.

causes.

On some men Congo

destined to perform great deeds in the

State, these chapters

on the climate will create

a desire to j^rotect themselves against the effects of inequalities,

these

or variations

of temperature

others, destined to be failures, either to return,

know

ignorantly against they

on

;

and

rail

not what, or to enrich

the already fertile soil of Congo-land with their bodies,

they will have no but not,

know not how and who have

of old,

it

is

no

There are men who can read,

effect.

to reflect,

who have

what

less true to-day, that those

have to say

to

" That exposed corner

and

like the colonel

are

chaffing

me!

is

wards, but

little

copious doses of I shall

fresh

have

the

make mad. from England,

not conducive to good health

This deliciously cool

;"

^\'acq

fatal!

" ?

who was

a

wanderer over many lands, replied, colonel

whom

he will reply, " Oh, nonsense, you

the doctor,

Yet both

said

some one again, most probably,

Doctor, what do you say

.

first

I said lately to a colonel fresh

And

As was

ears but hear not.

Fates destine for early death, they I shall

eyes but see

and doctor were,

traveller "

He

for a

is

himself,

a

only joking."

few days

after-

disposed to appreciate joking, despite

Hop

Bitters.

to say again, as I did

from England, "

My

friend,

to

that

an engineer little

black

saucer cap of the British mercantile service, though I

dare say very comfortable in a ship's engine room, but a poor protection against an African sun."

is

And

INATTENTION TO PRACTICAL ADVICE. some en^^ineer

will

319

as he did, " I don't think cumate-

answer

Part

I feel

so, sir.

used to

very comfortable.

I

have been always

But that engineer never returned

it."

to

Europe. I

am

sailor,

or Scotch engineer, "

My

me

Cease that tippling which I hear you are accus-

have to say again,

I shall

!

tomed

sure, to

some English

friend, be

warned by

Scotch whisky, or Old Tom, liowever bene-

to.

your native land against raw mist and icy

ficial

in

sleet,

do not agree with an African sun "

sailor

or Scotch engineer will reply, as before, " Oh,

I

;

take very

neither

little, sir,

the

sailor

Scotch

or

me no harm."

will do

it

and the

engineer returned

But to

gladden the eyes of the anxious mother at home. Doctors

who have

written books

of five and ten

pounds weight, containing a vast amount of learned matter about the will declare

that

I

me

bacillus

to be

and other matters,

malarice

an empiric

;

but

I will

guarantee

can cure any one of them from that fanatic

faith in the pro[)hylaxis

do not deny that there in the air,

my

belief

is

which they support.

is

AVhile I

a certain quantity of

that

it

was the

miasm

least of the evils

from which the members of our expedition suffered.

At Banana and Boma, tions, situate

in the midst of

marshy exhala-

almost at the water's edge, the Europeans

have enjoyed better health than our people at Tivi, on that singular rock platform 340 feet above the river.

At

Kinshassa, just ten feet above

health has been enjoyed

munity from sickness

high-water, better

— indeed, almost

— than

complete im-

at Le'opoldville, five miles

II.

THE CONGO.

320

chmnte— bclow, situate eisflity-three feet above the river. At Part II. ^ Equator Station, with a river only five feet below its .

.

foundations,

.

creeks

sable,

as ink surrounding

ground unctuous with black

the

it,

alluvium, Europeans

fat

enjoy better health than at Manyanga, 240 feet above

and 1100

river,

above the

feet

away from Manyanga, and the river,

1500

we have above the

feet

eight miles removed from

a station on the plain of Ngombi, sea,

where our people have enjoyed

Manyanga

health than at

better

Fourteen miles

sea.

Hill,

150 yards in

diameter, and ravines 200 feet deep are around all sides,

(six

degrees below the Equator) only

above the brackish water of

feet

proved

on

except at a narrow neck thirty yards across.

Banana Point five

it

to

much

be

its

creek,

is

healthier than Sierra Leone, over

eight degrees north, which has been called the " white

man's grave," despite the number of medical inspectors

who have employed

their best

judgment and experience

in endeavouring to modify the fatal

seem

to

surround the

studying the dia-

grams of the preceding chapter, that the ness

fearful sick-

which has frequently decimated the European

inhabitants has not been due so

the

to

that

But the residents

latter place.

may now know by

of that colony

influences

fact

that their

Lion Hill and

its

town

much is

to the malaria as

surrounded by the

hilly neighbours,

between the gaps

of which sweep the sea breezes, suddenly chilling the bodies of people

who

engendered within I

its

are enveloped

by the

close heat

bowl-like position.

have been so frequently rebuffed by the callous

in-

INDIFFERENCE TO

had hoped to save, that

difference of those I

in the preservation of Hfe has

and not

acnte,

may

well ask,

of a person

Why

become

so universal as it

why

who

321

LIFE.

my

briefer,

interest ciimate-

much

was formerly.

less

For

I

should I be anxious about the health utterly indifferent to

is

it

himself?

should I care whether people prefer to lounge in

draughty corners to cool their heated bodies, whether they

fire their

little

saucer-shaped caps, and invite the equatorial sun

to scorch their

man may if

brains with alcoholic liquors, or wear

heads?

In Congo-land, as elsewhere, a

own person

do as he pleases with his

and

;

he be disjjosed to blow his brains right out of his

head,

Heaven knows

him, that after

they love their

possibly

life

may

would be the wisest plan.

all it

such, how^ever, as

serve that

should be tempted to agree with

I

even better than

love their duty

life,

my

remarks

To

may

tend to pre-

performance of that duty, and

for the

stimulate an endeavour to

also tend to

discover other causes that are deleterious to health, to

be followed by the discovery of methods reforming

now pursued with

the medical treatment

such

poor

success.

Our

doctors would also do w^ell to study

the best foods required

A

by those who

fertile physiological

covery

field

lies in this direction.

live in the tropics,

for exploration

I

what are

and

dis-

would gladly essay

to

attempt something in this line were I not convinced that

a medico, blessed with

a

little

might write with greater authority. would wish

to impress a

Vol. II.— 21

common

sense,

Personally,

I

few things upon the mind

THE CONGO.

322 riimnte—

of the medical explorer, as tliey relate to those " other causes deleterious to health."

We know from

bitter experience that alcoholic liquor

taken in the daytime invite sunstroke and sun-fevers.

To avoid But tea

is

these

we have

rely

to

upon

an astringent, and unless

depressing; tendency.

stimulating,

is

Coffee,

it

creates a distrust of is

its bilious

believed to be

The

reverse.

skim on the cocoa again, apart from

coffee.

pure, has a

is

commonly

more frequently the

and

tea

oily

insipidity,

its

Milk as yet

properties.

not to be obtained, although perhaps, in the luture,

may be more

it

Soup presupposes some

plentiful.

animal meat from which

it

be concocted

could

;

and

ox-beef or mutton are precisely what the Congo cannot furnish awa}^ from the

Lower River, while

cannot be very satisfying, even Besides

this, their

compound

three or four times a day

extracted from goat-meat

broth.

a

if

varied with chicken

dietary education has predis-

posed the majority of temperate Europeans to something different, principally tea and

however, as I have

said, if

source of trouble.

Palm wine

The

taken inordinately, exercises a

former, is

also a

dangerous

upon the kidneys and stomach unless drunk

effect

when

perfectly fresh.

among our failings on the Congo is distaste we all of us soon entertain for

Not the decided potted

least

"American, Australian, and

beef and mutton and tive

coffee.

fish,

phrases bestowed

food preparers.

A native

New

the the

Zealand"

despite the loud exaggera-

upon these ^'oat,

delicacies

by the

however tough and rank

TINNED MEAT. its

meat may

sardines,

... swimming m be,

323

Ml

invariably preferred.

is

1

in its yellower unctuous matter, do not apjDetite,

may fruits,

—home-made

bread,

limited

is

rice,

is left

which the

in

a few vegetables,

and condensed milk.

What we need most on mild

provoke the

All that

but suggest biliousness.

be said to be perfectly safe

extreme

The potted

n sweet-oil, or the yellow salmon,

liquid,

which

briating as tea

is

and

the

Congo

is

some harmless,

agreeable and palatable, unine-

as inoffensive to

the stomach,

milk, which neither affects the nerves nor kidneys, is

and

a portable food easily assimilated by the digestive

Until some earnest physiological student can

organs. assist

our deficiencies, I propose the following simple

by those

rules to be observed

tion of their lives has 1.

some

to

whom

the preserva-

interest.

In the building of your house, mission, or factory,

observe it,

as

w^ell i<s position.

Never

in a gorge, valley, ravine, or

land that

may

currents.

A

surroundings.

build, if

you can avoid

any deep depression of

serve as a channel for collected wind

your

free diffusion of air is required in

The

nearest points to the sea, plains,

extended plateaus, as

far

removed

as possible from

any

dominating superior heights that would cause iiregular air-currents, are the safest localities.

The lower

story

should be clear of the ground, unless you have made the floor imporous by cement or asphalte. plain the floor of your living

In a grassy

room should be

twelve feet above tbe ground. 2.

Avoid unnecessary exposure

to the sun.

at least

oiimateI'^'ti'-

THE CONGO.

324 Climate Part II.

Gruard against

3.

and

ino;

fogs, dews,

tlie

and

even-

chills of

nio-ht.

Let your diet be as good as your circumstances

4.

will permit, but be prudent in

cheese,

your choice.

Butter,

and dishes swimming in oleaginous matter, are Roasted

unsuitable to the conditions of the climate.

ground-nuts are a mistake.

Always

reject the fat of

fats cause bile, rancidity,

meats on your

and nausea in the

All

plate.

tropics.

Never begin the day with an early meal of meats. Bread made

The

at the station is better

continental cafe or the au

with which to break your

At

than

lait, is

biscuits.

the wisest meal

fast.

11 A.M. cease work, and eat your wise dejeuner

lean of meats,

fish,

vegetables, dry bread, and



weak

black tea with condensed milk.

At

1.30 P.M. proceed to your work, and at 6.30 p.m.

take your prudent dinner

—boiled

mutton, vegetables, dry bread,

macaroni pudding,

weak

w^ith

jMadeira in water, or so

Amuse

yourself with

until 9 P.M.,

couch to

rise

rice, tapioca, sago,

claret, or

social

water.

conversation or reading

your dreamless

retire to

up next morning with brain toil,

and

two ounces of

much champagne and

when you may

muscle primed for 5.

fish, roast fowl, roast

and with a love

clear

and

for all the world.

Sleep on blankets, and cover up to the waist with

a blanket or woollens. G.

au

If marching, rise

lait,

and be ready

up

at 5 a.m., take

your cafe or

for the road at 5.30 a.m.

the

Halt at

11 A.M.. in mercy to yourself, your men, and your

ADVICE ABOUT DAILY animals,

and do no more

On

the day.

for

325

LIFE.

haltincr

put on your paletot or wrapper, to allow you to cool gradually.

If your

camp

is

on an exposed situation,

get under shelter as quickly as though

You may perform 4000 Observe

7.

the

miles per

strictest

were raining.

it

annum

at this rate.

temperance.

Drop

all

thought of tonics, according to the rules of " west coasters," " old traders,"

own

" African travellers," or your

self-deceiving fancies.

If

you are in absolute need

of a tonic apply to the doctor, or to the simple rule of

never during daylight taking more than one ounce of

any liquor or wine. Your best tonic would be two grains of quinia, as prepared by Burroughs and Welcome,* of

Snow

Hill Buildings, London. If thirsty at a station or

factory, prepare a glass of sherbet.

If marching, drop

a compressed tablet of aciduous powder, as prepared

by

these chemists, in your cup of water, or quench your thirst 8.

from your sweetened and weak tea

If

engaged

in

outdoor

work

in the bottle.

superintending

coloured labourers, never for an instant be in the sun

without a strong double umbrella

your piked

to

still.

a small tent, would be better

For head-dress you have a choice of cork helmet,

topee, or

of

staff, like

—a large one fastened

Congo

cap,t the latter of Avhich

is

the best

all.

*

These chemists have prepared drugs which I can conscientiously as adapted for tropical regions. They have prepared small doses in tablets of nearly every medicine that may be required, which may be taken without creating nausea, a valuable desideratum, as all will admit who have suffered from the foul nauseating smell of medicines as commonly prepared by druggists.

recommend

t

Observe cap in photograph of author.

*^!!"^^^V

THE CONGO.

326 Climate— Part

YOU Lave been

If diu'ing tlie marcli

9.

imprudent

so

II.

as to be without an

ample nmbrella, a

necessarily be dangerous

;

but

\N4etting

need not

becomes positively so

it

an accident at

if after excessive perspiration, rain, or

a river crossing, you remain any time quiescent with out changing your dress.

When

10.

on the march the lighter you are clad the

better, because at the halt

you

of your paletot

necessity

will be

Very

overcoat.

or

flannel will be quite sufficient for

the exercise you take.

reminded of the

your

dress,

light

owing

Light russet shoes for the

to

^qq\,

knickerbockers of light flannel, a loose light flannel

round

a roll of flannel

shirt,

tlie

waist,

and a Congo

cap for the head, will enable you to travel twelve miles per day without distress. 11.

At

the station, factory, or mission, your clothing

should also be light, though not in the undress uniform of the road, because you

take at any

moment causing

should be avoided 12. It is to

safe

hours

13.

Do

if

profuse perspiration, which

when circumstances do not compel 6

and 7

a.m.

your principal work

ture of your batli

bath

is

and is

5

and

6 p.m. are

indoors,

not bathe in cold water unless you are but

newly arrived from a temperate

bath be in

it.

be presumed that you will not forget your

Between

exercise.

know not what work you may

tlie

is

climate.

The tempera-

not safe below 85°.

morning, or before dinner.

Let your

The

tepid

the most suitable.

14. Fruit, if taken

morning

— before

the

at all,

cnfe

should be eaten in the

or

tJic

au

laii

— such

as

MEDICINE, ETC.

327

oranges, mangoes, ripe bananas, guavas, and papaws

only the juice of the pine-apple

Never

eat

any

Medicine.

you with

to

;

be recommended.

fruit in the tropics at dinner.

— Obtain

Messrs.

pared.

is

your medicine pure and well pre-

Bunoughs and Welcome

will equip

tropic medicines in chests or cases, with sup-

plies to last

you one month or ten years.

They have

sought the best medical advice, and really seem

dis-

posed to study the special needs of the East, West, Central,

Northern, or

soldier, trader,

Southern

and missionary.

1

African traveller,

have informed them

of the few diseases such as have fallen under

my

obser-

vation, and they have prepared such medicines as have

been tried during the

seventeen years of

last

my

African experiences.

The same prudence

that

sudden

against draughts,

and pulmonary diseases

required for protection

is

chills,

catarrhs, bronchitis,

in Euroj)e, should be exercised,

with the only difference that in the tropics the clothing necessary to effect due care should not be so heavy.

On

proceeding to tropical Africa, most inexperienced

people are victims to chaff from the

steamers that leave Europe.

and manner ask so many voke the

which

officers to

Such " guys

silly

" in

of the

costume

questions that they pro-

take advantage of their inexperience,

results in creating

fatal diseases, so that

coast, their

officers

morale

is

vague

fears of

unknown and

by the time they arrive on the frequently destroyed, and their

systems unnerved.

The

diseases

on the Congo are very simple, consisting

'^p'^.^'Jr

THE CONGO.

o28

Part

II.

The

and dysentery.

fevcrs

Climate— of

fevers

of three

are

_

common

kinds,

ague, remittent, and a pernicious bilious

fever.

The common ague English

cold.

is

less

be feared than an

to

have never known

I

from one

It lasts generally

to

it

to three days.

end

air

the remedies are so very simple that the initiated

the

warned

may

initiated

in

time by

them that there

is

The remittent

also

cei'tain

but

;

may

In nine cases out of

cure themselves in a short time. ten

may

This

from a small quantity of miasm in the

result

fatally.

ward

it

off completely,

symptoms which inform

a slight derangement. fever

is

simply an exaggeration of

ague, brought on according to the degree of exposure to the sun, perspiration,

and

chill.

This form

may

last several days.

The tent

pernicious bilious type

fever.

It

is

is

an aggravated remit-

more violent

in its

symptoms,

is

attended with serious complications, and consequently

more dangerous.

Its severity

depends upon the habits

of the patient, and the amount of exposure, excessive fatigue

and prostration incurred. This form may be

al-

together prevented by living wisely and well, by bearing in

mind and

Many gin,

implicitly following the above simple rules.

attempt self-cure by drinking brandy, whisky, or

and smoking tobacco

to excess.

But liquor and

tobacco are not prophylactics against any disease.

Some

brief extracts,

from Dr. Martin's book,

'

In-

fluences of Tropical Climates,' will corroborate all that I

have written here.

Dn. MARTIN'S OBSERVATIONS.

329

" Care in diet, clothing, and exercise are more essential for the climate-

I.

preservation of health than medical treatment." '2. " The real way to escape disease is by observing strict temperance,

and

moderate the heat by all possible means." "After heat has morbifically predisposed the body, the sudden influence of cold has the most baneful influence on the human frame." to

3.

4. " is to

The great

physiological rule for preserving health in hot climates

keep the body

cool.

Common

sense points out the propriety of

avoiding heating drinks." 5.

"The

fatigue of 6.

cold bath

death in the

is

collajise

which follows any great

body or mind."

" Licentious indulgence

is far

more dangerous and destructive than

in Euroi^e." 7.

"

A large

amount

of animal food, instead of giving strength, heats

the blood, renders the system feverish, and consequently weakens the

whole body." 8. " Bread is one of the best articles of diet. Eice, split vetches, are wholesome and nixtritious. Vegetables are essential to good health, such as carrots, turnips, onions, native greens, &c."

when sound and ripe, is beneficial instead of hurtful." The same amount of stimulant undiluted is much more injurious than when mixed with water." II. " With ordinary precaution and attention to the common laws of 9.

" Fruit,

10. "

hygiene, Europeans

One more

may

live as lung in the trojjics as elsewhere."

observation will

the European

may endure

However

suffice.

well

the climate by wise self-

government, years of constant high temperature assisted

by the monotony and poverty of the

cannot be

than enervating and depressing, although

otherwise life

diet,

may not

be endangered. The physical force, vigour,

or strength becomes debilitated

by the

heat, necessi-

tating after a few years recuperation in a temperate climate. trader,

To preserve

perfect

missionary, coffee

who hopes

health,

planter,

and

I

advise

the

agriculturist,

to maintain his full vigour after eighteen

months' residence, to seek three months' recreation in

Northern Europe

;

for the

same reason that a man de-

voted to absorbing business in a European city for

Part

II.

tm Climate—

THE CONGO.

eighteen months would do wisely to take a few months'

Beyond what has been

holiday.

told above, there

nothing in Congo-land to daunt a than in

less

the

West

My this

many

man

is

indeed, far

;

parts of India, South America, or

Indies.

object, as will

silly

of the

fear

observed, will

have been seen, climate.

is

to eradicate

The above

rules, if

of

prevent at least three-fourths

the

maladies that have punished our imprudent youths. Possibly the judicious will their

find

reward

in

following

guidance as nearly as possible, the injudicious

and unreflecting

The following

will also

have their reward.

tables contain portions of the valuable

meteorological observations of Dr. Danckelman relating

Congo region

to the climatology of the

Temperature observed at

:

Vivi.*

Fahrenheit.

Fahrenheit.

Maximum.

Minimum.

Variation.

October Noveiuber

90 yi 92 93 94 86 84 85 89 93 97

December

91

70 68 69 68 67 60 56 56 67 68 69 70

20 26 23 25 27 26 28 29 22 25 26 21

1882.

January February

.

March

.

April l\Iay

.

June

.

July

.

August

.

.

,

September .

Mean Mean Mean

highest lowest

.... ....

90-7 67-3

variation

25

Highest

temperature in) 1882, on 5th Nov. LS82 Lowest 2;h1i Jiily, 1882 llJth Julv, 1883 „ .

97

|

.

.

By

Dr. Dauckelman.

54 57

OBSERVATIONS OF TEMPERATURE.

1882.

Annual Vauiation of Barometer 6-5 May June July

.... .... ....

August

.

September October

.

.

in Millimetres.

331

THE CONGO.

332 Climate— rart

^^

nooii the direction of

wind currents are between

II.

west and north, as follows W. 32 per cent.

At

W.N.W. 11 per cent.

:

N.W.

N.N.AV.

N.

16 per cent.

12 per cent.

13 per cent.

3 p.M.:N.W. 6 per cent.

AV.N.W.

74 per

At

9 P.M.

and with stronger force 26 per cent.

also observed

force as to May,

make 1882

the

21 per cent.

how

14 per cent.

often the

wooden

:

W.S.W.

S.W.

S.S.W.

S.

10 per cent.

He

10 per cent.

cent.

w. 18 per cent.

wind blew

in such

structures of Vivi tremble.*

WIND OBSERVATIONS. From 10

Sept.

333

THE CONGO.

334

In March rainy days were separated by many Climate— February no rain fell. dry days, but in April the rains were nearly continuous. The greatest Part II. rainfall measured on one day 0-433 inch, on the night of the 17th December, 1882, and lasted 2 hours £0 minutes."

Danckelman

Dr. follows

has

tabulated

the

rainfalls

as

:

English Incbes.

......

January February

1-404:

5-616 9-009 1-989 0-000

March April

May June

0-039 0-000 0-000 0-507

July

August September October

11-232

November December

8 '853

Inches

While travelling and the

result

may

1880-1881.

2 '888

I

41-537

observed the rainfalls by time,

be seen in the following table

1

BAINFALL OBSERVATIONS: Eainfall 1880-1881.

Date.

335

336

RAINFALL OBSERVATIONS. Rainfall 1881-1882. Date.

337

THE CONGO.

338 Climate Part II.

Hours per

Character of Rain.

Mar. 12 20

24 26 27 28

Slight showery

Montli.

.

Violeut rainstorm

Showery 15-00

April 2 4 ,. 18

20 26 27

Violent rainstorm Slight shower Light rain Violent rain and storm .

.

.

2 30 1

80

2 8 7

4 25-00

May „ ,.

3 4 5

Light rain

Heavy

rain

Light rain

— NAVIGABLE STMETCHES OF THE BIVEB.

339

CHAPTER XXXYII. THE KERNEL OF THE ARGUMENT. Extent of the Congo Eiver— Navigable stretches

The mountain region Population

— Interior

—Elevations,

—The maritime region

vegetation,

and productions its extent and

basin of the Upiier Congo

:

—Tables of mileage of navigable waters — Area drained by the rivers — Tables of population altitudes— Navigability of the tributaries

of Upper Congo section— Oi^inions of Dr. Pogge and Lieut. Weissman, Tippu Tib, and Dr. Schweinfiirth The products of the land Vegetable and animal richness Minerals—Extent of the Webb-Lualaba section Navigability of the Webb-Lualaba -Characteristics of the Lualaba country Livingstone's descriptions The Tanganika territory— Ujiji markets Table of the actual knowledge of the Congo









— —

basin

its

:

area and population

— Possibilities of

value of African produce in Liverpool

Advantages of a railway -Efforts parison with other coiuitries

The Congo River measured

length,

is

as

irade

— Table of the

—Prospects

to civilise Equatorial

of factories

Africa— Com-

—Its future development and greatness. 3000 statute

over follows

From

:

the

miles

in The

ocean in a navigable lengtri of 110 miles, as far as the station

upward

of Vivi, thence

to

Tsangila,

lower series of the Livingstone Falls, 50 miles Tsangila to stretch

Manyanga we have

of 88

poldville

is

miles;

a tolerably navigable

between Manyanga and

the upper series of

along a length of 85 miles

;

the

from

;

Livingstone

Le'o-

Falls,

from Le'opoldville

Kernel

.of

Atlantic

up-

the

Argument.

The Kernel

waid

Argumeut.

1068 miles

we have

to Staiilev Falls

Nyangwe there is Nyangwe to Mweru Bangweolo

Bemba,

is

1

6

course of 385 miles

a the

miles long

1

in the Chibale' Hills, the

360 miles;

the

course

river

to its sources

Chambezi has a length of

total

full

thence

;

Lake Baugweolo,

;

and thence

;

from

;

extends 440

67 miles

is

220 miles

is

of this last series

fall

Lake Mweru

miles; the length of to lake

a navigable length of

from the lowest

;

to

or

CONGO.

TIJE

340

of

these

several

courses

being 3034 miles.

For convenience of description,

as well as in accord-

ance with the physical cliaracteristics of the Congo basin, I

am

compelled to divide the river's course into

five sections, thus

:

The Lower Congo from the

Leopoldville, which, includes tion of the

tlie

mountain region;

sea to

maritime and a por-

tlie

Upper Congo,

ex-

tending from the Livingstone Falls near Leopoldville to the Stanley Falls

Chambezi

section,

a

like

distance

the

Webb-Lualaba * region, the

and the basin of the Tanganika.

Congo

In the Lower for

;

of

section the river

110 miles.

is

navigable

by an estuary-

First

expansion 70 miles long, varying from two to

seven miles and a third in breadth, and then by a

deep channel in some places over 300 feet deep, and about L^OO yards wide. right

The present seaport

bank of Banana Creek,

What

be called a

miglit

of the Congo

is

at the

mouth of the

strictly

in

on the river.

maritime region

a very narrow belt

* So called by Dr. Livingstone Newstead Abbey, Nottingham.

is

lying between

honour of W. F. Webb, Esq., of

THE MOUNTAIN REGION the sea and the hilly region.

Boma

of

the

341

In the neighbourhood

The Kernel

mountainous region commences with

Argument

which are

numberless lines or groups of inferior

hills

yet attached to one another, and rise

gradually after

an

number of undulations

infinite

2300

feet

above the level of the

to

the

of

heiu'ht

sea.

In reality the breadth of the mountain region direct east

and

west

240 geographical miles

Congo

course of the

diagonally

is

;

through

trough running from north-east

fissure-like

west, into

is

but it,

the in

a

south-

to

which ships may penetrate a depth of 50

miles from above the estuary of the lower river, while

on the eastern

side there

is

a navigable diagonal course

of 174 miles leading into the plain-like lands of the

Upper Congo.

From is

2276

round

the height of feet

with

lyumbi

above the

sea,

a theodolite

ridge, for instance,

by sweeping the horizon

horizontally,

altitude of the boldest hills

which

the

which appeared

topmost in

view

throughout an area of 2000 square miles did not vary 50

feet

in height, although

number of by

hilltops

there

were a countless

and grey swells of upland

crevasses, gorges,

se[)arated

and long sinuous watercourses,

proving that the land we surveyed was a disintegrated plateau,

denuded in the course of ages of

by numberless tropic rain seasons. where the loamy

soil

was

still

On

bits of tropical forest

what

land might have been

hollows,, into

which some of the

loam

the larger levels

retained,

palms and the

its rich

groves of

were seen, indicating

soil

originally.

The

has been washed

THE CONGO.

342 iiiteiTupted

The Kernel 01" of the

Argument.

111 tuG dark

iu its

wavy

by

descGiit are easily traceable

lines, belts

and bars of

which

foliage,

appear more and more shadowy as they recede.

we

and look down

step near the vei-ge of one of these

into

the depths

of the

gorges,

If

we view

lengthy

a

sunken bed of evergreen vegetation so dense and dark that brief,

one wonders whether they are penetrable. almost every tabular

hill

of any dimension

with a palm-grove and

crested

In

clump

forest

;

is

the

smaller hills and slopes are mere wastes of sere grass

;

the hollows, ravines, gorges and valleys teem with a

marvellous wealth of vegetable

The productions of

life.

the mountain region which are

commerce are very

suitable for

The

simple.

levels in

the vicinity of the palm-groves and villages produce

the ground-nuts of commerce

;

from the crimson-yellow

nuts of the palms {Elais guineensis) palm-butter creeper

is

the

in

;

found

;

gorge-forests

is

extracted the

the

india-rubber

some orchilla-weed and gum-copal

are also present.

In the neighbourhood of the sea and the navigable part of the lower liver the country has been fairly well exploited.

There are certain well developed

lines

of native travel, such as the trade routes leading from

Stanley coast,

Pool

and

region indirect

is

to

to

Zombo,

Loango

;

to

San Salvador and the

but the larger part of the

but slightly influenced,

manner,

depots at the

by the

except in

establishment

Lower Congo and

of

a very

trading

the coast.

Tiie superficial area of the maritime

and mountain

TEACHABLE NATIVES. region of

343

Congo, which includes

that portion

The Kernel

of the basin extending between the sea and the lower

Argument,

tlie

all

end of Stanley Pool, measures 3M,000 square

The

from the

population,

of

effects

the

and internal wars, cannot be estimated

at

miles.

slave-trade

more than

— say, 300,000, governed

nine souls to the square mile

We

have proved them to be

tractable during six years of

most peaceful intercourse,

by

at least

300

chiefs.

during which we have experienced only two interrup-

The

tions with those immediately under our control.

happy condition of our native transport column

is

an

evidence that the natives of this region are teachable,

and amenable

to

latest reports of

improvement and

The

discipline.

1885 prove that about 1500 porters>

are employed monthly.

The next

section

basin of the

we have

to consider is

the interior

Upper Congo, beginning from the

longi-

tude of Le'opoldville at the lower end of Stanley Pool,

and ending

at the longitude of Stanley Falls.

At Stanley to be

1511

Falls

feet

we

find

In a curving course

above the ocean.*

miles from east to west, and from twenty-

of 1068

Equator

eight miles north of the

down

the altitude of the river

to



degrees of

17'

south

of the

longitude, the

to

13'

N. and

Equator, across nine

slope of

been four inches to the mile.

T

the descent has

The concave of

this

almost perfect bow-like course of the Upper Congo distant

from the sources of the

into

from the south,

it *

913

is

tributaries, flowing

geographical

miles in

Later measurements do not vary 30 feet from the above.

THE CONGO.

344

The convex of the bow

The Kernel

a

Argument.

IVom the water-parting which supplies

line.

dii'ect

is

distant

tributaries

its

from the north 330 geographical miles in a direct line.

Of

the southern tributaries flowing into the great are

river the laigest

Kwa, Mohindu, Ikelemba,

the

Lulungu, and Lubiianzi.

By

ascending

Kwa we

the

a navigable

obtain

length of 2 SI miles to the upper extremity of Lake Le'opold

The

11.

Ngana branches

Mbibe' and

will

add a further course of 220 miles.

Two hundred and Lukanga

miles above the

fifty

discovered, which leads us into

is

Kwa

the

Lake Man-

tumba, whose populous shores must not be neglected

by the future trader

From Congo

the

Upper Congo.

in the

confluence

of

Lukanga with

the

Lake Mantumba

to the extremity of

is

the

seventy

miles.

Sixty miles above the fine river

Mohindu.

Lukanga we

We

only explored

eighty miles, but, considering native reports,

we may

arrive

its

estimate

it

at

the

for about

magnitude and the

its

navigability to be

about 650 miles.

About

thirty

Ikelemba, which

miles higher up I

the

Congo

is

the

estimate will furnish 125 miles of

river course accessible to trade.

It is

the commercial

reserve of the Bakuti tribe.

The next

river

we

arrive at

is

the Lulungu, which

will probably be found, with its tributaries,

Lulua and

Lubi, navigable for over 800 miles.

banks are

Its

TRIBUTARIES OF THE RIVER.

345

reported to be more populous than those of the Congo.

The Kernel

Bauranga and Bakuraira

Argument.

This river

is

exploited bj the

mostly.

The next

river

gable only for twenty-five interrupted by rapids slight,

they are

becomes

it

to

survey the naviga-

is

river

first

is

the

navigable for thirty miles.

Mikene-Alima, whicb we can ascend

tlie

for thirty miles.

navi-

impede the navigation.

northern tributaries, the

is

is

and, altlioiigh they are very

;

sufficient to

Lawson-Lufini, which

The next

when

miles,

Beginning at Stanley Pool bility of the

which

Lubiranzi,

the

is

Above

this

A

for perhaps fifty miles.

is

the Likuba, navigable

few miles higher up

tlie

mouth

of the river, variously called Isanga, or

Bunga,

which

is

probably the Likona of Ballay,

readied.

From

all

reports

may

ascended

be

for

Nearly opposite the mouth of the Lukanga

120 miles. is

river

this

is

the Balui River, a large water entering by a delta.

My by

his itinerary that

The next

me

to believe

will be navigable for

350 miles.

Miyongo, of Usindi, has

friend,

it

led

river as yet discovered above the Balui

the large river of Ubangi, and above this

is

is

the Ngala,

flowing from the east into the Congo, half-way between

Some

Upoto and Iboko.

me

fifty

miles of an ascent leads

we Numbers

to expect that, with its affluents,

gation for about 450 miles. are on

its

Above miles.

shall find navi-

of large towns

banks. the Ngala

So

far

native reports, I

is

from

the Itirabiri, explored for thirty its

should

magnitude, estimate that

and from the

we

shall find

THE CONGO.

346 the Kernel

navigable water of the aggregate length of 250 miles.

of the

Argument.

•11 immediate neighbour, probably .

,

.

Tlic NlvulvU,

its

may

be ascended for sixty miles, while the Biyerre has been

proved navigable for ninety-six miles, and the Chofu

known

to be impassable after

is

an ascent of twenty-five

miles.

Thus the navigation uninterruptedly leaving the river bay let of Leopoldville,

available, after

as follows:

is



English miles.

From

Kwa

Leopoldville to Stanley Falls direct

Eiver,

Kwango and Lake Leopold

Left

j

The Lukanga and Lake Mantvimba Mohindu Eiver

bank

\

Ikelemba

.

II.

.

.

1068

.

.

500

70 650 125



Lulungu aud

800 25

its tributaries

Lnbiranzi ^

Nseleh,

Wanipoko and Lagoons,

left

bank

.

.

.

30

'Lawson-Lufini River

Mikene-Alima Likuba

?!S! bank

\

30 50



Isanga-Bunga, or Likona River

120

Balui

350 350

Ubangi River, and its affluents Ngala and its affluents Itimbiri and its tributaries

450 250

Nkuku River

60

Biyerre

96



^Chofu

25

5249 miles.

Total

From and

the following table of the length of the rivers,

their principal

section

200

of the

tributaries,

Congo

bnsin,

which flow

may

into

this

be inferred what

additional mileage to navigation will be furnished to

commerce ledge.

after the

development of geographical know-

TABLES OF MILEAGE.

347

Eight Bank. Nume

of River.

All these river banks having the same population density as on the congo river representing for this part of the Congo Basin almost a half million square miles... Some not explored regions like Katanga showed, later on, indeed a lower density...

THE CONGO.

348 The Kernel

From

Argument. foFin

and the Lumani alone, which

the Lubilasli

the Liibiranzi, I have a strong conviction that 800

miles more of navigable water will be obtained, since

the

Arabs of Kiburuga informed me that they had

crossed

the waters. five miles

The

They knew only

above

its

confluence with the Congo.

by the various

of 5250 miles.

by passing one

in

section.

this

rapid,

The wealth of

increase to over 6000 miles. lies

It

is

during ten months of the year. either

line,

As we

we may

equatorial

bisected

equator, over which the rain-belt discharges

the equatorial

by steam

direct navigable access

This,

rivers

square statute miles,

1,090,000

is

which we have

Africa

of the rapids twenty-

superficial area drained

above mentioned into

and navigated many days on

several times,

it

its

by the showers

recede from

north or south, the dry

periods are of longer duration.

At

long dry season

from the middle of

May

lasts four montlis,

to the middle of

lasts six

weeks, from

At

end of February.

Congo

section

estimating the

may

Lat. 4° the

September; the shorter season the middle of January to S.

about three weeks longer

The population of

S.

this

Lat.

6^,

the dry season

the is

in the year.

enormous area of the Upper

be approximately ascertained by

number of inhabitants

at each district

according to our observations, on the right bank and

on the

left

of that great curve of the

Congo between

Stanley Pool and Stanley Falls, and of the Biyerre, the Mohindu, the entire area

by the

Kwa, and belts

tlie

Lukanga, dividing the

which were explored.

1)

1

.

TABLES OF POPULATION. Eight Bank.

349

Ascending tho Congo.

Tlie Keruel

of the

Name

Estimated

of District or Village.

Population.

Gordon Bennett to La wson Eiver to

Population.

13,000

Mikenef

Eiver

15,000

j

Mikene Eiver Lukolela to

to opposite^ .

.

Bungata

.

.

50,000 4,000 15.000 3,000 3,000 30,000 3,000 10,000 10,000 12,000 5,500 6,000 2,000 8,000 8,000

.

Ukiimira

Ubengo Usiinbi

,...*.

Iboko

•.

Lusengo Ubika Thence to Iringi

Umangi

.

......

Ukele

and Ngombe

.

Lukii

Ndobo Ibunda

10,000

j

Bukoko

TJpoto

Estimated

of District or Village.

207,500

\

Lawson Eiver

Thenoe

Name

.....

Bumba Lower Yambinga Upper „

.

Villages Old Yaluliraa.

Bungele Basaka

...

.

.

.

.

Basoko of Mokulu Upper and Lower Yom.

burri

....

Yangambi Yaruche Yaryembi

.

....

Wenya and Bakumu

Ascending the Congo.

Imeme

.... Marunja .... Mpakiwana

Mbama and Mikunga Kimjwko and neighbourhood

To Wampoko Eiver Wampoko E ver to Ms wata Mswata and neighbour-! .

i

hood

Kwamouth

Kwa

....

Eiver to Bolobo Bolobo to Lukolela Lukolela



\

]\Ipa

.^

.

.

.

.

Yakongo

.

.

.

Villages .

Bahamba Bandu \

Butuuu

I

Bahunga

.

.

.... .

.

j

.

.

.

.

.

.

Islands

.

.

".

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Bungungu If^angi

I

.

Ikassa

Mbungu and

Ngombe Nkuku

.

Old Eubunga.

Yalulima Irubu

.

Usindi Irebu

.

.

j

8,000 5,000 3,000 2,000 2,000 11,000 3,000

313,800

Lema

.

.

"

Yarukombe Yakusu

Kimbangu

.

13,000 j

Intermediate Villages

Bunga Mutembo

.

.

Boruu

Kintamo Kinshassa

.

Ngingiri

207,500

Left Bank.

10,000 8,000 8,000 5,000 3,000 300 2,000 2,000 6,noo 15,000

......

Yaporo

.... .

Thence to Moliindu Eiver Uranga Bolombo

Ukanga Yakonde Yarukombe

Bukumbi

Wenya

.

.

.

.

.

.... .

212 ,000 2 ,000 500 500 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,500 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 .500 ,000

319,000

Argument.

350

This must be 3030

1 (statute) mile=1609,35 meter

:

DENSITY OF THE POPULATION. Lieutenant Weissman,

who

351

crossed the upper Lubilash,

The Kemei of the

write "

Argument.

:

The country is densely peopled, and some of the villages are miles in They arc clean, with commodious houses shaded by oil-palms

lengtii.

and bananas, and surrounded by carefully divided contrary to the usual African practice,

woman attends " From the

man

is

which, quite

fields, in

seen to

till

the

soil

whilst

household offices. Lubilash to the Lumani there stretches almost uninterruptedly a prairie region of great fertility, the future pasture-grounds of the world. The reddish loam overlying the granite bears luxuriant grass and clumps of trees, and only the banks are densely wooded. " The rains fall during eight months of the year, from September to The temperature varies from G3° Fah. April, but they are not excessive. to 81° Fah., but in the dry season it occasionally falls as low as to

45° Fahrenheit."

______________________________ Tippu Tib, the great Arab trader in interior, who has traversed the south-east portion of this section, * ______________________________ tlie

described to

me

personally his astouishnient at the den-

sity of the population.

He

told

me how

had passed

lie

through several towns which took a couple of hours to

and

prairie

camp

left in

traverse, of the beauty of savannah, park,

country he saw, and the

how

the site of the

morning might be seen from the evening camp

after a six hours'

march.

Fi-om the north-east of this

section

we have

the

testimony of Dr. Schweinfiirtli in the following words "

From

king,

tlie

Welle

to the residence

of the

Monbuttu

Munza, the way leads through a country of

marvellous beauty, an

almost unbroken line of the

primitively simple dwellings extending on either side of the caravan route.

He estimates the Nyam-Nyam country to be about ______________________________________ 5400 square miles in extent, populated by 2,000,000. _______________________________________ * This is debunking the false theory that these regions were emptied by the Swahili traders. If we look what a long time Tippu Tib needed to guideStanley to these regions (only accessible during six months per year), then we had to admit that the deported number of slaves was less great than pretended in some litterature.

TEE CONGO.

352

______________________ number ________

The Kernel of the

Argument.

wliicb

.,

3

per square mile

1

,

!

The Mobindu and of

wbicb we

Itimbiri rivers, a certain portion

explored,

Miyongo

confirm wbat

Usindi related respecting the Lulungu, further

we

of

eqiial to the extraordinary

would be

of

that the

viz.,

travelled from the immediate banks of the

great river the more numerous became the people.

The vegetable productions of and varied, but use will be

intercourse

until

made

this section are rich is

facilitated

little

This might be readily

of them.

surmised from the country's bisection by the equaline,

torial

the

months' rains

ten

and

the

humid

warmth which nourishes vegetation with extraordinary prolific

power.

The most remarkable among

the vegetable growths

are the palms, of which there are an

but the most useful to commerce guinemsis). well

scarcely,

kernel

is

Not a grove, nor an

in

;

some

places, such as the

between the Lower Lumani and Congo, there

are entire forests of

On

it.

vinifera usurps its place.

islands are

palm

its

can be found without this beautiful

and most useful palm district

the oil-palm {Efais

the west coast, while

valuable for oil-cake for cattle.

variety,

dark red palm-oil so

Its nut supplies the

known on

islaiid

is

immense

yields

The

wholly forests of annually

from

the Biyerre' the Raplda larger

number of

this palm.

500

to

As

the

its

oil-

1000 nuts, the

quantity that miglit he collected from this section

enormous, and would rail to

the coast.

well

is

lepay transportation by

VEGETABLE WEALTH.

353

The next most valuable product of the untouched floridiif

in this region,

from Euphorbia

may have

which

gum

is

article,

On

but that which exudes

an area of 3000 square

miles with SOOO square miles of river, I estimate that

pay

Argument.

the islands of the Congo,

in the aggregate cover

in one year to

of the Laudolphia

not so elastic in quality, although

uses.

its

The Kernel

There are three kinds

or india-rubber plant.

of plants producing this

it

the

is

yet

forest, as

banks of the main

tiie

enough rubber could be

for a

collected

Congo railway.

Other gums, such as Ihose of the Tracliylobum and

The

Guibourtia species, are useful for varnishes.

transparent white and red

known the

Wenya

I

in diameter of

known

pure white

other uses they

Vegetable

are too well

There are

Among

to ,the natives.

discovered large cakes over 18 inches

villages they contrive to its

copal

need remark.

for their value to

large deposits of these

gum

fossil

oils

know

gum

copal.

make

torches of

liglits,

the third

is

it,

fishing

but of

nothing.

are extracted from the Arachis hypogea^

or ground-nut, the oil-berry, castor

used for

At some

oil.

The

first

is

the second for cooking and gravies,

medicinal, as with us.

Vast extents of forest are veiled with the orchilla moss.

Between

strip of forest

Iboko and Langa-Langa

saw a

about 60 miles in length draped with

orchilla lying on the

village

I

contains

its

woods

like a

gieen

manufactured

rolls

veil.

of

Every redwood

powder, and few settlements between the equator and the

Kwa

could not furnish a few hundredweights at

Vol. 11.-23

THE CONGO.

354

^^Vtiir^^ Argument,

the

first

Every

order.

trading" canoe floating

among

^pp^j. Congo possesses

its

on the

wares a

saleable

certain store of this universally-demanded article.

The vegetation of

Upper Congo

the

able for the quantities of fibres

manufacture

paper,

of

it

coarse matting, and grass-cloths;

by the Papyrus antiquorum, Calamus

indicus,

produces for the

basket-work,

rope,

remark-

also

is

fine

and

these are furnished

aloes, Stipa tenaccissima,

Phoenix spinosa, Raphia vinifera, and

Adansonia. Just as Lake tity of

Mantumba

furnishes the largest quan-

redwood powder; Iboko palm-fibre matting;

Irebu, Calamus fibred sunshades nnd floor mats lima, double

famous for

bells

Ubangi, swords

;

tobacco

its

coils,

its fine

In this region, able

timber and

among

the

is

with which product they

conduct an extensive river trade.

remarkable for

Lukolela

so

;

Yalu-

;

its

Lukolela

is

also

wild coffee.

many minor

items avail-

which commercial intercourse would teach the

natives to employ profitably, are lope,

buffalo,

lion,

monkey, goat, ante-

and leopard skins

;

the

gorgeous

feathers of the tropic birds, hippopotamus teeth, bees-

wax, sativa,

myrrh,

frankincense,

and

lastly ivory,

which

the most valuable product.

It

to-day

may

there are about 200,000 elephants

is

which would

in

about 15,000 let

us say,

weight of ivory in his head,

lbs.

represent,

Europe, £5,000,000.

considered

be presumed that

herds in the Congo basin, each carrying,

on an average 50

Cannabis

tortoise-shell.

when

To some,

collected

perhaps,

and sold in this

would

IVORY, RUBBER,

AND PALM-OIL.

appear a large estimate, but

355

much more moderate day to me by a gentle-

it is

than a statement made the other

man, who solemnly declared he had met a herd of 300 elephants

least

his servant

had overflown

its

many

so

Mr. Ingham, a

to

missionary, lately shot twenty-five the

for

at another locality not far

As

the

tlie

tons upon tons

Congo basin

is

off,

ivory

and

shot twenty.

drawn

for

the last eiglity years it

may

be that

under-estimated the number of elephants the

;

a large area, and considering

from the eastern half of Africa,

in

river

tlje

engulf him and his confederate.

and obtained money

Major Yetch,

that

banks, and, like another angry Sca-

mander, threatened

elephants,

and that he and

in a small river,

had slaughtered

at

unexploited and

virgin

I

still

have

living

western half of the

continent.

In

my

in rank

opinion the ivory, however, stands but

among

the natural products of the basin.

total value of the ivory

this rep:ion

fifth

The

supposed to be in existence in

to-day would but represent 107,500 tons

of palm-oil, or 30,000 tons of india-rubber.

If every

warrior living on the immediate banks of the Congo

and

its

navigable affluents— which are of the aggregate

length of 10,800 miles, within easy reach of the trader

above Le'opoldville

pound

— were

in rubber each

to pick

about a third of a

day throughout the year, or

to

melt two-thirds of a pound weight of palm-oil, and

convey

it

to the trader for sale,

£5,000,000 worth of

vegetable produce could be obtained without exhaustion of the wild forest productions.

Or

if,

in the

same

The Kerne Argumeut.

THE CONGO.

356 The Kernel

pound of

msiDner, each native warrior picked half a

of the

Aigument.

gum-copal per day, or collected half a pound per day of orchilla-weed, or

made

grind out half a

his wife

pound of camwood or redwood powder, ample proof would be given that of the

any one

of

forests alone as articles

pioductions

the

of

commerce have a Although ivory

value greatly superior to

ivory.

such a precious

by no means inexhaustible,

and therefore most

article, it is

it

By

cannot be rated very high.

trifling labour of the able

is

the

bodied warriors living

on the edge of the bank of the navigable river more

gum,

of either palm-oil, rubber,

orchilla-weed, or cam-

wood, could be produced in one year than in the

At

Congo basin

is

all

the ivory

worth.

the same time, although limited,

is

it

a valuable

product, and as such will be an object to commerce. If 200 tusks arrived per

£260,000 per annum,

it

week

would

at Stanley Pool, or say still

require twenty-five

years to destroy the elephant in the Congo basin.

In minerals this section abundant.

is

famous

is

by no means

poor.

Iron

Yalulima, Iboko, Irebu, and Ubangi are

for their swordsmiths.

The Yakusu and Basoko

are pre-eminent for their spears.

the Association at Brussels

In the

museum

are spear-blades

long and four inches broad, which

I

collected

of

six feet

among

those tribes.

The copper mines near large

At

portion

Phillippeville supply a very

of Western

the market of

Africa with

Manyanga

of these change hands.

their ingots.

several hundredweights

The south-eastern

portion of

MINERALS, SUGAR, RICE, ETC. the section of the

•11* vans with their is

r

stores or

also abundant.

Arabs

Upper Congo

Kernel

of the

1

Plumbago

copper.

and some of

in the beds of streams,

bottles

cara- The

T^i

Argument.

Gold has been found by the roving

by me returning from glass

numerous

supplies

11 smelted

357

met

tliose

their slave raids possessed small

which contained the treasures of small

gold nuggets they had found.

Every native

village

on the Upper Congo has

Bananas and plaintains

sugar-cane plats and maize. naturally thrive marvellously.

In the

natives eat bread of millet flour

manioc, sweet and bitter kinds,

;

Kwa

bean, which prolific

is

Among brinjalls,

is

vegetables

are

little

main

river.

the black field

very like the grain of India

the

the staple

furiiisshes

in favour

and hardy, needing but

valley the

but the cassava or

farinaceous food of the people along the

The leguminous plant most

its

;

it is

most

cultivation.

'

yams, sweet potatoes,

cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, tomatoes, &c.

Lately the cabbage, the European potato and onion,

have been introduced, and thrive most promisingly at Leopoldville and Kinshassa.

On fast

the eastern edge of this section the Arabs are

introducing the large-grained upland rice with extra-

ordinary success.

At Wane Kirungu they harvested

in

1882, 30,000 bushels of rice, and about 500 bushels

While the Association has advanced from

of wheat.

the west with mangoes, papaws, limes, oranges, pineapples and guava, the Arabs

have made remarkable

progress from the east with the same

There

is

a countless

fruits.

number of valuable plants

use-

THE CONGO.

358 foi their

The Kernel ful of the

Argument,

oiis, •

and

like tlie " candle-berry " tree, &c.

1





foi medicinal uses, like the

purgans, the Strychnas, the also to

be

found the wild

Semicarhus anacardiuin,

or

/^

Cashew, the Jatrophe

Amomum, giijger,

and nutmeg, the

marking-ink plant

these have no value to commerce, and

belong to the botanist.

There are

&c.

but

;

more properly

Cotton, however,

discovered

is

wild and indigenous everywhere, especially on the sites of deserted settlements,

and may in the future be

considered something more than a curiosity in a broad

and spacious region

so well adapted for its growth.

The next region

to

be considered

the

is

Webb-

Lualaba section, which embraces the greater part of 54 square degrees, included between 28° N.

lat.

and

S. lat.

12° 30', and between E. long. 25° 20' and E. long 30°.

The

superficial

measurement of the area amounts

246,000 square statute miles.

The course of

river from the dehoucliure of the

Bangweolo down is

from S.W.

Within

this

to

to

the great

Chambezi into Lake

to the last Cataract of Stanley Falls

N.W.

a distance of 1260 Eni^lish miles.

section I include

— until

further light

is

thrown upon the subject— Lake Muta-Xzige', not the

Lake Albert discovered by

Sir Samuel Baker.

We

have

voluminous affluents flowing into the Webb-Lualaba, directly west of the

They

lake discovered

require drainage area, which,

Muta-Nzige',

we have not

if

by me

in

1876.

we exclude Lake

sufficient space to

supply such

large rivers as the Low-wa, the Ulindi, and Lira.

From

native accounts, which, though extremely unreliable, must, in the absence of definite infoimation, be accepted,

THE WEBB-LUALABA COUNTBY.

may

359

be estimated to cover an area of 5400

The Ken.ei

square miles. Lake Bangeolo, according to Livingstone's

Argument.

this lake

rough survey,

is

of the superficial extent

Lake Mweru, according

square miles.

of

10,200

to the

authority, covers an area of 2700 square miles.

Kassali and

chain of lakelets

its

same

Lake

cover altogrether an

area of 2200 square miles.

Beyond the Stanley

Webb-Lualaba

Falls the

is

navi-

gable to within six miles fiom Nyangwe, a length of

327 miles.

On

met

Le'o])old River,

is

the

thirty miles

of the

the next

;

first class,

is

which

is

we meet

400 yards south

we

at the

see the Lira

Low-wa

with a breadth

About ninety

clear

we come

to the

which has a known course of 250

thirty miles

which

is

of

miles further

stream.

A

little

Luama, a stream

miles.

Forty miles

the Luigi, of half that length, and

beyond the Luigi

the outlet of

is

the Luindi, or Lukuga,

Lake Tanganika.

Commencing again from the Baswa uppermost of the Stanley Falls left

we ascended

emptying into the Webb-Lualaba,

north of S. latitude 5°

is

ascended

River, an affluent

— which

river

300 yards wide, a deep and

further south

affluent

South of the Low-wa about

the Ulindi

mouth.

tlie first

formed a few miles up by the

few miles— a

1877 a

in

ascend,

which may be

the

junction of two streams. fifteen miles

we

the right as

bank we meet

is

cataract, the

series, the first

on the

the small Black River, and the

next from the bend, which I supposed was the Lumami, but which, the Arabs inform me, similar to the Kasuku,

emptying

is

the Lufii, a stream

at S. lat. 4^ into the

THE CONG 9.

360 The Kernel of the

The next ^reat

Webb-Lualaba. -

.

.

of the river

Argument, secti'on

is

the Lacustrine

The Webb-Lualaba of main

length

amount

river

Kamolondo. of

out

section,

and larger

5000 miles, may be

to

river flowinfi- into this

,

.

.

its

;

the

below

the

betw^een

Mweru

Kasongo

Falls

two naviincluded

first

between the Baswa Falls and Njangwe' second

whicli

tributaries,

div^ided into

gable sections of 550 miles each

aggregate

Falls,

and the

and the rapids

Lake.

This region, mainly along the river banks and in a vast part of

its interior,

has been subjected to the dete-

riorative influence of slave-raiding for the last

Whatever

years.

its

population

twenty

may have been

before

the desolating system of capturing communities of people

by the slaughter of the males, estimate

more than twenty

it

would not be

safe to

souls to the square mile,

by

which we have a population of nearly 0,000,000.

The

principal tribes in that region are the

Bakumu,

Balegga, Banyema, Bakonde', Bagenya, Barua, Bakuss,

Bamarungu, and Bahmda.

On

the lower navigable section of the

Webb-Lualaba

there are four trading communities of Arabs and their slaves established at Kasongo,

Wane

To

Kirundu.

Nyangwe, Yibondo, and

the commercial trader from the

west coast these communities are easily accessible, and

would be valuable over the region

;

auxiliaries to the extension of trade

inasmuch as they have hosts of

plined slaves, hundreds of

during the trading.

last

The

whom have

disci-

been educated

twenty years in the art and practice of tastes of these people

would be

supeiior,

A BAB TRADING COMMUNITIES. naturally, to that of the aborigines.

the cattle

assistance,

Lualaba;

also

the

Through

their The Kwnei

Usige, Ruanda, Urundi, and

ot"

might be brought,

Ujiji

361

in a

cattle

lew weeks' march, to the

of

Nyangwe,

wliich

have

increased at last accounts to respectable herds, prov-

ing that there

is

nothing

fatal

growth and

to their

successful propagation in the valley of the

The natural productions

of

Congo.

the land are similar to

those enumerated as belonging to the

Upper Congo

section.

The next

section

for consideration

that of the

is

Chambezi, having a superficial area of 46,000 square miles.

drained entirely by the Chambezi and

It is

tributaries,

its

which are the headquarters of the Congo.

It lies in a basin elevated

about 3800 feet above the

sea,

walled around by the Losanswe range of mountains

on the north, and

to the south

and east by the Lokinga

mountains, or jjlateau wall of Bisa, and the Chibale' range.

The

river

is

described

by Livingstone

to be

400

yards wide at the place of his crossing, with a clear current of two knots and a depth of three fathoms.

One

of

its

affluents,

the Lubansenzi,

is

described as

being 300 yards wide, and three fathoms deep.

Lokulu

A

is

described as being a

still

The

larger affluent.

few quotations from Livingstone's own words will

give a better idea of the country than can be gathered

any other manner.

in "

Immense swampy

"The

plains all around except at Kabende."

water in the country

is

exceedingly large; plains extending

Argument.

THE CONGO.

362 'ih
have 4 or 5

Kernel farther than the eye can reach

of the

feet of clear water,

and the

adjacent lands for 20 or 30 miles are level."

Argument. out.

We went through We were lost in

five

hours."

'*

"The country

is

necessity tortuous.

papyrus, stiff

rushes, arums,

tall

and grass

till

tired

grassy prairies from 3 to 4 feet in water for

so very flat that the rivers down here are of Fish and other food abundant, and the people civil

all

and reasonable." " One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees occupying quarters of miles in breadth, and these give plain

is

flooded annually

From

the above

of the Chainbezi

but

;

its

way

to plain again.

The

vegetation consists of grasses."

will be perceived that the basin

it

country like

principally a level

is

prairie land sloping very gradually on all sides to the

Bangweolo Lake, and during the rainy season inundated in

its

lower depressions, especially in the vicinity

Midway

of the lake.

of

its

gradations of undulating

beautiful

rises

in

land,

on which browse the

as far as north-east,

tbe

course, however, the country

foot

cattle

of the

pasture

herds of the Babisa,

Mambwe

plateau, on

and the Chibale mountain chain

east,

the the

latter being 7,000 feet high.

The population of at

more than

iexi

this region

cannot he estimated

to the square mile,

which would give

460,000 souls to the territory.

The remaining described

is

the

section

of the

Tanganika

Congo

territory,

basin to

be

which covers

a superficial area of 03,000 square miles, of which the lake itself being 391 English miles in length, with

an

average breadth of twenty- four miles, absorbs 0400 square miles.

In some portions of this section the population dense

;

as for instance, in Usige, Urundi,

is

Uhha, Eastern

THE TANGANIKA TERRITORY.

363

some portions of Umyamwezi

Itawa, Ujiji, and

Kawendi, Marungu, Ufipa,

others, again, as in

By

thinly populated.

a moderate estimate,

it is

it

in

^'"^ Kernel

but

Argument,

;

would

be twenty-five to the square mile, making a population for the entire basin of 2,325,000.

The

surface of the lake

above the

feet

by mountains

On

sea.

is

the north-west

2500

rising

an altitude of 2750

at

feet higher,

west by heights ranging from

Along 1500

1500

the east the average height of

feet

above the lake

it

bounded

to

the south-

to

2000

feet.

table land

tlie

on the north

;

is

is

a broad,

is

funnel-shaped valley leading to the lofty uj^lands of

Ruanda.

On

one half of this territory cattle are bred in '

The Warundi, Wahha,

numerous herds.

Wanya-Ruanda,

a very superior race of people, could

not exist without their

yamwezi, who are while

life,

The Wajiji and Wan-

cattle.

them, also

allied to

they do not

sorghum,

cereals,

neglect

millet, maize.

affect

the

At

of Tanganika

About midway on

is

a

London

the east

is

a pastoral

production of

Ujiji,

Uzige, are trading communities of Arabs side

Wazige', and

;

Uvira, and

on the west

Missionary station.

a station of the African

International Association.

At

Ujiji

ends the oil-palm, the other productions

of the land being similar to the Upper Congo section.

On

the eastern portion of the basin cereals form the

staple

food of the inhabitants, while on

portion the principal cassava.

food

consists

its

western

of bananas

and

THE CONGO.

364 The Kernel

At

the iiiavkets of Ujiji

may

of the

Argument. \\]q

principal products for sale

beans, ground nuts,

millet,

fruit, palm-oil,

number of

be seen a

— ivory,

maize, sesame,

sugar-cane,

wild

cbilies,

bananas, plaintains, honey, goats, sheep,

cattle, fowls, fish,

tobacco, fish-nets, copper

iron wire, bark cloth,

bows and arrows,

wristlets,

hoes, spears,

slaves, &c.

U vira,

At

on the north-west

side,

are great smelting

At

works, and manufactures of iron wire and ware. south, the best tobacco

Usanzi, a

little

Ukawendi

the largest store of honey and

found

from Urungu

;

arrives

Mambwe

to

raised

is

wax

;

in

to be

is

the finest ivory

from Marungu the largest number of slaves

;

are brought

number of

;

Urundi and Uhha supply the largest

cattle

;

while Ujiji

goats

supplies

and

sheep.

The following the

state

basin

of

table will present in a

our

compact form

Congo

knowledge of the

actual

:

Area

in

Square

Sections.

miles.

Lower Congo

Upper

33,000

.

Cougo

Population per Square mile.

About 9

1,090,000

Length

Number of Population,

of Naviga-

Area of

Name

of Lake.

297,000

,^( I-eopold

II.

9.50

^^"\ Mautumba.

400 10,200 2,700

,

40 43,884,0005,250|

Baugweolo

Mweru Kiissula

246,000

Luiilaba

20

^^^^^ miles

tion.

4,920,0001,100

.

and

of l2,200 chain Lakelets ) .

Chambezi, with) Baiigweol'j

Tauganika

.

.

46,000

460,000

93,000

2,325,000

400j

Mutu Nzige

9,400 5,400

391

Kuta Kebir

444

'I'anganika.

I

l.oOS.OliO Average 34 51,880,000 7,251

The subjoined form

will illustrate

how

31,694

the

Congo

POLITICAL BOUNDARIES. basin

is

present

at

Conference

:

divided, according

365 to

the Berlin

The Kernel

Argument.

THE CONGO.

366 The Kernel

knowledge of the peoples cbiring

Argument,

intercourse with

them have but

my

six years

intensified

later

my

con-

victions.

clever practical people of Manchester ask me,

The "

And what

can the natives give us in excliange for

"

our cloth

?

I answer, that the trade of to

£32,000,000

last

West Africa amounted

year, out of

which there were

£17,000,000 exports, which sailing

probably about

away

ships and steamers were able to carry

from a

line of

have shown, after

after

due care

for

exactitude

some four hundred astronomical

patient exploration, personal

Europe

2900 miles long.

coast only

sea

to

I

obtained

observations,

investigation, bold essays

into as yet wild regions with our small steamers, as-

siduous questioning of native navigators, that there are

5250 statute miles of uninterrupted navigable water,

which may by overcoming a

trouble

little

rapid be increased to GOOO miles in the section of the

The flow

and

is is

Congo

at

one

Upper Congo

basin.

area through which these navigable channels

over 1,000,000 square miles superficial extent,

throughout a

the variety of

its

fertile

natural

region

unsurpassed

productions.

It

is

for

peopled

by about 43,000,000 of native Africans, whom, from our experience among 1,000,000 of them, lead us to believe will prove as amenable to reason and prudent

treatment as any natives

we have

we have

encountered.

ascertained that along 2030 miles

banks there dwell 806,300, we

may

As

of river

estimate then that

POSSIBILITIES OF TRADE.

367 The Kernel

4,483,000 souls inhabit the two banks of the navigable

mileage of 6000 miles, or 12,000 miles of river shore.

These 12,000 miles of Congo banks excel in quality sea

the

found

In

shore.

and

oil-palms

book,

this

rubber

I

speak of

having

the

dyeing

creepers,

powder of the red-wood and of the orchilla-weed, copal deposits, at

and

of

forests

every place I visited

trees

speak of eager native

I

;

gum-producing

ot

traders following us for miles for the smallest piece

of cloth.

mention

I

that

many

travelling

after

miles to obtain cloth for ivory and red-wood powder,

the despairing natives asked, "Well, what

do want

On

Tell us,

?

will get

it

you

it

for you."

venturing before that body of practical, sober,

men

intelligent

Chamber

of

incorporated

Commerce, "

singular question, in

and we

is

exchange

I

What can

our cloth

for

append the following

am

list

? "

Manchester

a

into

confronted with the the

give us

natives

For a

first

answer I

of produce from the Congo.

and steamers can be sent

If sailing ships

Upper Congo basin by the Manchester will obtain three times at least

the

to

people, they

more of West African

produce than they obtain from the whole of the West African

coast,

extending

from the Gambia

to

St.

Paul de Loanda, or £50,000,000 worth of produce. Since they cannot send either sailing or steam vessels,

they must build two sections of narrow-gauge

way

respectively

length,

fifty-two

connected

connected

railway

by

rail-

and ninety-five miles

steamboat

235 miles

navigation,

long,

and

or

in

a

they will

Argument,

THE CONGO.

368 The Kernel

obtain as mucli produce as sucli a railway can con-

Argument. xQry^

who who

from their trading agents on the Upper Congo, will collect

from over a million native Africans,

it

are waiting to be told

what

further

produce

is

needed beyond ivory, palm-oil, palm kernels, groundnuts,

gum-copal,

gum

tr;igacanth,

orchilla-weed,

myrrh,

camwood,

frankincense,

cola-nuts, skins,

furs,

hides, feathers, copper, india-rubber, fibre of grasses,

beeswax, bark-cloth, nutmeg, ginger, castor-oil nuts, &c.

&

Memorandum from Hutton

Co.,

The Temple, Dale

Street,

Liverpool, 12th March, 1885.

Value of African Produce Palm

(Congo)

oil

kernels „



Ground-nuts, shelled

....

in the shell

...

Copra

£ 28 12

s.

5

Ivory teeth

.....

Barwood

Camwood Ebony

„ „

12

„ „

to 2

per cwt.

3 10 £21 to 23

per ton.

£6 „ 14 10

large

1

10

1 12



Cotton

Bermiseed

Gum

„ „

per cwt. „ 5i per lb.

seed



1 per lb.

£45 to 60 £25 „ 45

Coffee, small berry



per ton.

14 10

Is. 4'i.

....

scrivelloes

d.

5

16

India rubber „

in Liverpool.

copal, red

Angola

....



white Loanda



Sierra

Leone

... ...

Guinea grains

per ton.

2

per 384

5

5 15 1

15

5s.

Ginger

to 2 10 1 16

Castor seed

9

5



Beeswax Orchilla weed, Angola

£1

per cwt. „ 6i per lb.

19

£1

Chillies

Croton

4 10

£5

to 6 10

17s. 6d.

„ 2 10

per cwt.

lbs.

AFRICAN PRODUCE IN LIVERPOOL. £.

s.

Kola nuts (fresh") Eattan canes Porcupine quills

10 80

Monkey

01

skins

...... .......

14

Calabar beans

Morse teeth

2

Adansonia, or Baobab bark or fibre Oil nuts (Candle-berry) 1 ^^ .

.

^

,

Nominal

11

7


369

THE CONGO.

370 The Kernel

yanga, and judging from what

is

being done on the

of the

Argument.

Lower Congo,

the following produce

Factories ^\htre Stationed.

was shipped

:-

ESTIMATE OF PROBABLE EXPORTS. the gross value of which

371

Of ivory

The Kernel

and rubber, £300,000 might easily be bought, because

Argument.

oil,

£1,050,000.

is

the great depot of trade would then be at the ter-

— Manyanga —and

minus

the service of the 800 carriers

now conveying goods between Vivi and

Stanley Pool

(235 miles), would be utilised in carrying produce

between the Pool and Manyanga, ninety-five miles.

The aggregate revenue of the up and down commerce,

from

State,

and

missions,

traffic

exclusive

of

passengers, would be about £120,000, for an outlay

of £230,000.

The

would be obtained

fuel

Ngoma

through which the line

forests,

would run.

Bundi, and

the

at

of i-ailway

would of course be a surface railway,

It

the extraordinary outlay being only for a few bridges.

Were

the railway to be direct from Vivi to Stanley

Pool, the distance being only 235 miles, the expense of

construction at

£4000 per mile would only amount

£940,000.

The gross revenue of £300,000 per

to

annum

such an outlay

for

such a railway

is

must contribute miles

through

exchange muskets,

it

to

would for

as

large

constructed a million its

support.

uninterrupted

of

surely

is

river

The

Once

!

square miles

trade

by 5200

navigation

flowing

chiefly consist of

heavy produce

in

bulky goods, cotton goods, beads,

gunpowder,

cutlery,

china,

and iron ware,

inasmuch as bullion, cheques, bank-notes are useless in the

As

Congo

basin.

a mere speculation there

whole wide world

offering:

so

is

nothing

in

remunerative an

the in-

372

THE CONGO.

.

The Kernel

vestmeiit of Capital as this

Argument,

of

kinds, ancl

all

and have proved impassable

;

aerial

human to

be failures

been

liave

carriers

the

;

yet,

arrives every article that a mortal

tested,

cataracts

navigation, unfortunately,

compete with the railway as

toll

Animals

small railway.

are

cannot

and until that time

man

needs must pay

of freight to this iron road.

To-day £52,000 are paid per

between Stanley Pool and the the

International

which

is

annum

coast,

Association,

for porterage

by native

and

three

traders,

Missions,

equal to 5^ per cent, on the £940,000 said to

be needed to construct the railway to the Pool.

But

let

the Yivi and Stanley Pool railroad be constructed, and it

would require an army of Grenadiers

traders from

moving on

in the commercial El

The

to secure the favourite places

Dorado of Africa.

Christianity, science,

waves beating on a rocky shore,

and

trade.

Like the

so Islamism has dashed

repeatedly from the north in

reach the line of the Equator.

made

prevent the

equatorial regions of Africa have for ages defied

Islamism,

itself

to

its

frantic effort to

Christianity has also

ineffectual attempts for the last three centuries

to obtain a footing in the

same region, but ignorance of

retirement.

Science has directed

the climate caused

its

strategic assaults

upon the closely-besieged

area,

has succeeded in retiring with brilhant results; success,

and its

however, has been only temporary, as Trade

which ou2:ht to have followed stood dazed with the difficulties

which the pioneers encountered.

Thus the equatorial region, which

offers

such large

AFBICA RECLAIMABLE. prospects to the enterprising, its

.

own

.

.

.

f.

juice of fatness.

stands railing

.

been

left to

.

Belgas were at this late

of the

its efforts.

It

by what process England, Gaui, and

redeemed from barbarism

hour there

heart of Africa with

still

its

and because

;

emerges iuto light the great

countless millions without the

slightest veneer of artificialism over man's natural state, it

thoughtlessly exclaims that the African savages are

irreclaimable.

Africa,

How

it

possible that these natives of

whose bonds have been

cessible area, could

that

is

we have any

fixed in such an inac-

have been otherwise

No

?

people

record of have ever risen out of the

Europe has

slough of barbarism without external help.

been compounded out of the

relics

of

many

nations

and

tribes— Celts, Huns, Goths, Vandals, Greeks, Romans, Franks, Saxons, Normans, Saracens, Turks,

who have

become involved with one another a thousand times in commotions and contentions during many centuriesi It is out of the

fragments of warring myriads that the

present polished nations of Europe have sprung.

Had

a few of those waves of races flowing and eddying over

Northern Africa succeeded in leaping the barrier of the Equator,

we should have found

the black aboriginal

races of Southern Africa very different from the savages

we meet But

to-day.

until the latter half of the nineteenth century

the 'world was ignorant of of Isangila, or

how

iha Kernel

Civilisation, so often baffled, Argument,

presents such an impenetrable front to feigns to forget

stew in

,

barbarism and savagery that

the

at

lias .,

373

slight

what

lay

was the

beyond the rapids obstacle

which lay

THE CONGO.

874 The Kernel

betwecii civilisatioii and

Argument,

the

-,-,.. dark

of the

which CR'aved the two

to

mankind

be developed that

excels

it

endowed

'

a

to

mankind.

which nature reserved

by the coming races

known

precious

of

variety



I

;

still

lies

rejoice to

not only high in value, but that

is

other

all

for

gift

an area of the earth

rejoice that so large

find

r

navigable channels by which access

other

a unit of that

it, I

k

how Nature had formed

and

could be gained to this her latest

As

r

.

virgin regions or Africa into

equal halves,

hundred

broad natural highway

lands for the gifts

number and

which

with

nature

it

rare

has

it.

Let us take North America for instance, and the portion of

ricliest

viz.,

it,

the Mississippi basin, to

compare with the Congo basin, previous to

ment by

that mixture of races called

When De

its

develop-

modern Americans.

Soto navigated the Father of waters, and the

Indians were undisputed masters of the ample riverbasin, the spirit of enterprise

would have found

in the

natural productions some furs and timber.

The Congo basin at the

is,

however, much more promising

same stage of undevelopment. The

banks of the Congo are

lignum

vitae,

filled

forests

on the

with precious redwood,

mahogany, and fragrant gum-trees.

may

At

be found inexhaustible quantities of

their

base

fossil

gum, with which the carriages and furnitures of

civilised

countries

are

myrrh and frankincense

varnished ;

;

their

their foliage

orchilla-weed, useful for dye.

is

boles

exude

draped with

The redwood when cut

down, chipped and rasped, produces a deep crimson

DEVELOPING THE COUNTBTS RESOURCES. powder,

colouring

valuable

a

givir)g*

the

;

375

creepers

The Kernel of the

which hang in festoons from

tree to tree are generally Argument,

those from which india-rubber

of which

is

worth

per

2^.

lb.)

;

is

produced (the best

the nuts of the

give forth a butter, a staple article of commerce

make

the fibres of others will

the best cordnge.

palm

oil ;

while

Among

the wild shrubs are frequently found the coffee-plant.

In

its

and swamp, luxuriate the

plains, jungle,

phants, whose teeth furnish ivory worth from

per

lb.

;

its

lion, leopard,

monkey,

goat, cattle, &c., far

more

^s. to II5.

waters teem with numberless herds of

popotamus, whose tusks are also valuable

value,

may it

rately-industrious

otter

;

;

ele-

In'p-

furs of the

hides of antelope, buffalo,

But what

also be obtained.

possesses over 40,000,000 of

is

of

mode-

and workable people, which the Red

And

Indians never were.

vantages and benefits

to

of Nature, they are not

if

we speak

of prospective ad-

be derived from this

much

inferior in

late gift

number

or

value to those of the well-developed Mississippi Yalley.

The copper of Lake Superior

is

rivalled

the Kwilu-Niadi Yalley, and of Bembe'. tobacco, maize, coffee,

sugar,

by that of

Rice, cotton,

and wheat, would thrive

equally well on the broad plains of the Congo. is

only

known

afler the least superficial

a limited line which I

is

not

have heard of gold and

upon what

I

am

do not personally

For climate, the Mississippi valley large portion of the

Congo basin

miles wide.

but this statement

requires further corroboration, and I to touch

examination of

much over 50 silver,

This

is

not disposed

knovv-.

superior, but a

at present inaccessible

.

THE CONGO.

r3T6

The Kernel to

the immigrant

is

Europeans may thrive and multiply.

Argument, wliicli

no portion of

is

not

blessed with a temperature under

fix

his

it

where the European trader may

residence

merce to his own

There

years,

for

with as

profit

and develop

com-

risk as is incurred

little

in India. It is specially

that I dilate

with a view to rouse the

upon the advantages possessed by the

.Congo basin, and not as a g;rant.

spirit of trade

field for

the pauper immi-

There are over 40,000,000 native paupers within

the area described,

who

are poor

and degraded already,

merely because they are encompassed round about by

and man, denying them con-

hostile forces of nature tact

and intercourse with the elements which might

have ameliorated the unhappiness of their condition.

European pauperism planted amongst them would soon degenerate to the low level of aboriginal degradation. It is the

the

means of

factor

who

cautious trader retreat

;

Ihe

who with one hand

advances, not without enterprising

mercantile

raw produce

receives the

from the native, in exchange for the finished pro-

loom

duct of the manufacturer's

— the

European mid-

dleman who has

his

home

in

Europe but has

iu Africa is the

man who

is

wanted.

his heart

These are they

.who can direct and teach the black pauper what to

gather of

the,

multitude of things around him and in

They

his neighbourhood.

are the missionaries of com-

merce, adapted for nowhere so well as for the basin,

where are

so

dant opportunities

many

all

idle hands,

Cong6

and such abun-

within a natural

'•

ring fence."

A GOSPEL OF ENTERPRISE. Those entirely weak-minded,

who

profess

scepticism,

irresolute,

and project

always as a shield to hide their general observation,

it

Of

to interest in Africa. civilised

is

my

not

own

377

and

senile people The Kerne

them

before

it

cowardice from

purpose to attempt

the 325,000,000 of people in

Europe there must be some surely

whom

to

the gospel of enterprise preached in this book through the

medium

of eight

languages will present a few

items of fact worthy of retention in the memorj', and capable of inspiring a certain amount of action.

encouraged

in

which

several ideas

during the nent,

this belief

last

I

I

am

by the rapid absorption of

have industriously promulgated

few years respecting the Dark Conti-

Pious missionaries have

set forth

devotedly to

instil into

the dull mindless tribes the sacred germs

of religion

;

but their material

that the progress they have to the courage

and

difficulties are so

great

made bears no proportion

zeal they

have exhibited.

I

now

turn to the worldly wise traders, for whose benefit and

convenience a railway must be constructed.

Argument.

TEE CONGO.

378

CHAPTER XXXVIII. THE BERLIN CONFERENCE. Strengthening

fabric

tlie

— Precedents — Treaties

-with

Treaty— United

validity— The Anglo- Portuguese

chiefs

States

:

their

action

Prince Bismarck's views— Position of Great Britain— German and

French interests

of commerce —Berlin Conference — List —Deliberations and decisions at the Conference

—Freedom

of Plenipotentiaries

Acquisitions of France and Portugal— Free Tradediction

The Berlin Conference.

^HE

buildino: ^ of the ConoTO o State

may

We

the construction of an edifice.

may

A

safe juris-

—The Royal Founder. ./

be likened to

of the expedition

be compared to the labourers clearing the ground,

levelling the

digging

site,

the

reducing the approaches into order,

trenches,

laying

finally building

up the walls

while

Stiauch

Colonel

the

foundations,

to the designed height,

and

Captain

Thys, of

Bureau of the Association, supplied us with mortar.

But the

and

The

stone-masons, must retire,

owner must apply

to

the

put on the roof, and place their places.

tools

edifice in such a condition if

exposed to the elements cannot stand. bricklayers,

When

and

the

and long

labourers,

and the

carpenters and slaters to tlie

doors and windows in

these have finished their parts,

the cabinet-makers and upholsterers must be called in

STRENGTHENING THE FABRIC.

379

The Expedition

to reiKler the bouse habitable.

of the

The Berlin Conference.

Upper Congo and the Bureau had now performed

Royal Founder of the State was com-

duties, but the

and continuity,

pelled, in order to insure its prosperity

work advanced,

as the

to apply to

vernments of Europe and America

and to

for security

make

the various Gofor

recognition,

and peaceful safeguard of

its frontiers,

tieaties

with France and Portugal, which

would delimit the boundaries, and arrange with

them

their

all of

for the preservation of neutrality.

The precedents of the English Puritans of the Mayflower

in

1G20, of the

Xew

Hampshire

colonists in

1639, of the East India Company, Sarawak, Liberia,

and Borneo favoured the right of individuals and its

establish states

upon the

to

found

cession of territory with

sovereignty to them by the independent sovereigns,

chiefs, rulers, or

assemblies,

owners or holders of

who were

it.

The Association were

in possession of treaties

with over 450 independent African

would be conceded by

all to

their

own

chiefs,

made

whose rights

have been indisputable,

by undisturbed occupation,

since they held their lands

by long ages of

the original

succession,

by

real divine right.

Of

free will, without coercion, but for substantial

considerations, reserving only a few easy conditions,

they hnd transferred their rights of sovereignty and of ownership to the Association. arrived

made into

when

a sufficient

The time had then

number of

to connect the several

these had been

miniature

one concrete whole, to present

soverei2:nties

itself before

the

THE CONGO.

380

The Berlin on erencp.

general recognitioii of

"^^^^^^ ^^^

^^^^ liold these in

name

tLe

right to govern,

its

of an independent state,

lawfully constituted according to the spirit and tenor of international law.

The Committee on Foreign Relations with

say

Report

their

States, in

forty-eighth Congress,

" It can scarcely be denied that the native chiefs

:

have the right

to

eminent English less

make

The

these treaties.

statements

exhaustive

no

to the

the United

of

jurist,

Sir

Travers

able

and

Twiss,

the

and of Professor Arntz, the

distinguished Belgian publicist, leave no doubt

upon the question of the

legal capacity of the African

International Association in view of the law of nations to accept

any powers belonging

to these native chiefs

and governments which they may choose

to delegate

or cede to them."

"The

practical

affirmative

answer,

indisputable, tribes cede

question for

to

which they give an

reasons which appear to be

Can independent

cliiefs

of savage

to private citizens (persons) the

whole or

is this,

'

part of their States, with the sovereign rights which pertain to them, conformably to the traditional customs

of the country "

?

'

"

The doctrine advanced

well sustained

by these

in this proposition,

and so

writers, accords with that held

by the Government of the United

States, that

occupants of a country, at the time of

its

the

discovery by

other and more powerful nations, have the right to

make

the treaties for

persons

when

its

disposal,

and that private

associated in such country for self-pro-

VALIDITY OF NATIVE TREATIES. tection, or self-government,

may

treat

381

with the inhabi-

The Berlin Conference.

tants for

any purpose that does not

violate

tlie

laws

of nations."

In consequence of negotiations entered into between the British and Portuguese Governments, beginning

November, 1882, and ending February treaty

was

finally concluded,

25,

1884, a

by which the whole of the

south-west African coast, between S, latitude 5°

and

S. latitude 5° 18',

Government the

was recognised by the British

as Portuguese territory.

Lower Congo, of

course,

This included

by which the

territory

of the Association became excluded from the sea. treaty

12',

The

was signed on the 26th of February, 1884, by

Earl Granville on the part of Great Britain, and by

Senhor Miguel Martins d'Antas, on behalf of

the

Government of Portugal. Earl Granville, however, declared, previous to the signature of the treaty, that the acceptance

Powers of the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty was able before

was reason refused,

it

by other indispcTis-

could come into operation, and that there

to believe that this acceptance

which would necessarily delay the

would be

ratification.

Hitherto this territory proposed to be given up to Portugal, so far as Great Britain was concerned, had

been regarded as neutral, and the cluded,

marked a

a long

series of

radical

British

treaty,

thus

change in British policy; ministers

confor

had, during over

half a century, peremptorily declined to recognise the

Portuguese claims. \

On

the publication of the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty,

THE CONGO.

382 The Berlin ^|jg Contereuce.

France and Germany, DOwers, especially Eui'opean x ^ i j '

7

i.

emphatically protested against of

all

it,

and

in

England men

shades of politics combined to denounce

it,

princi-

pally through a fear that the restrictions imposed

upon

trade in other colonies belonging to Portugal would be so severe as to render

Congo

commerce impossible

in the

region.

The most

the Anglo-Portuguese

signal protest to

Treaty was, however, from the United States of America.

One

of the faithful coadjutors of the Committee of the

H.

International Association, General

S.

Sanford, of

Florida, formerly United States Minister to Belgium, in the latter part of 1883, had,

and

his

intimate

by means of the press

acquaintance with the authorities,

succeeded in rousing a genuine pubhc interest in the

Congo

question.

forgotten that

it

The American people had evidently was through the philanthropy of

their

fellow citizens that the Free States of Liberia had been

founded

to the establishment of

tributed $2.558_,987 of their

which they had con-

money

to create

homes and

comforts for the 18,000

free Africans they

spatched to

This

settle there.

state,

regard with honest pride, had

which they might

now an

area of 14,300

square miles, and a revenue of $100,000.

seemingly forgotten also that

it

was

had de-

They had

to the munificence

of one of their fellow citizens, and that

it

was

to the

discovery and rescue of Dr. Livingstone by another of their fellow-citizens, that popular attention to Africa,

and that they had a half share

of the exploration of the

was drawn

in the

honour

Congo basin which had now

AMERICA AND THE ASSOCIATION.

383

culminated in attracting the attention of the world.

Wlien Greneral Sanford reminded these fact?,

and

lield

out to

countrymen of

his

them a prospect

building their once important trade in

was not

difficult

West

in re-

Africa,

it

then to induce Congress to examine the

question soberly, and after a patient investigation of

every

fixct

bearing upon

it,

the United States Senate, on

the 10th of April, 1884, passed a resolution authorising the President to recognise the International African

Association as a governing power on the

The recognition of the United unto its

new

Congo River. was the

birth

of the Association, seriously menaced as

life

existence

States

was by opposing this

Powers has

and secured

affirmed

Sovereign States.

This

and ambitions

interests

and the following of

example by the European

act,

its

place

among

the result of the well-

considered judgment of the American statesmen, was greatly criticised abroad, as

was the

participation of

the United States in the Berlin Conference, to which directly led up,

by the press of America.

It was an act well worthy of the Great Republic, not only as

it

taking the lead in publicly recognising and supporting the great

work of African

civilisation in historj^

and in promoting the extension of commerce, but of significant import, in view of its interest for the future weal of the

7,000,000

people of African

descent within

its

borders.

The

Chambers of Commerce, notably those of Manchester, Liverpool, and Glasgow, resolutelv British

opposed

the

treaty

concluded

with

Portuo-al,

but

The Berlin

38-i

The Berlin

THE CONOO.



withal the strenuous

commercial

circles

and

maintained

opposition in the

to

it

in

House of Commons, had

not the Roval Founder of the Association obtained the

German Chancellor and

assistance of the

of the French Government,

thing

done

it is

doubtful whether any-

England would

in

the sympathies

have succeeded in

averting the effectual seal being put upon enterprise in the

Congo basin by

this treaty.

Much more

liberal

terms would be needed to tempt commerce within

its

borders than any provisions that the treaty contained.

Some such arrangement

as that

made by the Congress

of Vienna in 1815, whereby liberty of navigation was

proclaimed to the great rivers of Europe, such as the

Rhine and the Danube, would be necessary

;

and now

that an Association had absorbed unto itself hundreds

of petty sovereignties along a large portion of

France had proceeded in the same manner other portions of the

it,

and

to absorb

Congo banks, while Portugal

pressed her claims to territories washed by the great

African river,

it

was absolutely and imperatively

cumbent on the Powers

to step

in-

forward and impose

such obligations on the riverain Powers as would not imperil or strangle the

Lower Congo.

the banks of the

On

the

7th

commerce already thriving on 1884, Prince Bismarck set

of June,

forth his objections to the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty to

Count Munster as follows

:

" I do not think the Treaty has any chance of being universally recognised, even with the modifications

which are therein proposed by Her

Majesty's Government.

"We

are not prepared to admit the previous rights of any of the

BRITISH EXPLORERS.

385

Powers who are interested in tlie Congo trade as a basis for the ncgotia- The Berlin Trade and commerce have hitherto been free to all alike, without Couferenre. restriction. We cannot take part in any scheme for handing over the administration, or even the direction of their arrangement, to Portuguese tions.

officials.

" In the interests of

German commerce,

therefore, I cannot consent that

which has hitherto been

a coast of such importance,

free land,

should be

subjected to the Portuguese colonial system."

Hitherto Britain had been the most enterprising nation in African fields of exploration and commerce.

In the annals of exploration of the Dark Continent, look in vain

among

other nationalities for a

He

as Livingstone's.

unites in himself all

name such

stands pre-eminent above the

we

all

best qualities of other

;

he ex-

plorers, the methodical perseverance of Barth, Moffat's

philo- Africanism, rier's

fondness

literal

Rohlf's

geographical

for

accuracy,

enterprising

Speke's

spirit,

minutiae. Burton's

charming

simplicity

seductive honhommie with the aborigines piece of

human

France Duveyrier Rohlf,

and

;

he

is

mosaic, a real glory to England.

English Burton,

to

Duvey-

the

;

Germany can show and

latter

to

Speke the

Bene

Germany can oppose Nachtigal

;

Caillie

and

;

and

a rare

But

Barth, and

first

can show

to

Cameron

to Baker,

Schwein-

though two greater opposites can scarcely be imagined and France can also boast of De Compeigne furth,

;

and De Brazza.

But

Britain, after producing Bruce,

Park, Clapperton, Denham, the Landers, excelled herself

even when she produced the strong and perse-

verant Scotchman, Livingstone.

In West African trade also Great Britain stood almost alone at one time. Vol. it.— 25

Macgregor Laird exploited

THE CONGO,

386 TheBeriiathe

Niger in 1841; her traders were busy on the

Gambia, on the Roquelle, on the Gold Coast,

Glasgow and Liverpool and

merchants were

Bristol

represented by a host of agents, wlio

themselves at various

along

points

had planted

2,900

miles

of

but of late years, through the ai3athy of English

Germany by her

merchants,

enterprise had also estab-

and great houses

lished herself at various places,

that of

like

Woerman's were looming upward, overtopping

number

individual English firms, which could

all

Lagos

Gaboon and Kabinda, and the

in the oil rivers, at

coast,

at

by dozens and

factories

their agents

by

scores.

their

Ham-

burg and Bremen were outri vailing Liverpool and

Thus Germany had

Glasgow.

solid

and substantial

reasons for watching and jealously guarding her mercantile interests

and France, aided by the energy and

Monsieur de Brazza, in

talents of

and contiguous establish

to

;

Gaboon

to the

herself,

beyond

beyond

colony, naturally wished dispute, in

by the devotion and

acquired

territories

the

intelligence

districts

of

her

agents.

The

talents

political

the

of

German

Chancellor,

Prince Bismarck, are not of the

ordinary standard.

Those who profess

beaten paths and

rules

prescribed

to follow the

of

diplomatic

principles of Machiavclli, sistent,

direct,

policy,

and

as to his

what

coherent

lose

lies

mere

confused

sincerity

which

obsolete

by the condictates

his

themselves in profound speculations

his drift

purpose

are

art,

is,

when

written

in plain literal characters

in

legible

letters

and

in^

PRINCE BISMARCK.

3»7

German savants had explored The Deriin Conference. German merchants territories unclaimed by any Power were honestly established at certain places on the West language.

telligible

;

African coast

out of the most intelligent and enter-

;

sons

prising of the

graphical

Germany twenty-four Geo-

of

had

Societies

been formed, and a dozen African

Colonial Associations, besides

being

constituted

in

Germany.

Already

Buchner,

Gussfeldt, Peschuel Loesche,

were

societies,

V^on

Bastian,

Mechow,

Pogge, Weissman, had been equipped by a German African

Society,

These

more.

facts

and magazines.

ment

;

all

and

was preparing

it

were published

to

their reviews

in

There was no secrecy in the move-

was honest and above-board, and

world was told of the modest

making

despatch

to

expand

Germany was

effort

colonial strength.

its

Like the great statesman he this strong throb of

the

all

is,

Prince Bismarck

modern German

his stethescope to listen to the

He

life.

applied

murmuring and

passion of his era, and having discovered

felt

latent

be bent his

it,

genius to create a sound S3'stem of colonial policy, not rashly, it

in

though

to those

might be supposed all

without to

be eccentric.

he undertakes, he

competent to give

it.

orbit of his genius

ihe,

This

seeks is

He

advice

his

is

zealous

from

eccentricity

those ;

it

is

unusual for statesmen to convene a number of experts to consider the best course to pursue.

Tlie

Woermans

and the Meyers of Hamburg and Bremen were sum-

moned

to

Yarsin to see the Prince.

Durino- the visit

they paid him, Prince Bismarck, through his receptive

TEE CONGO.

388 The Berlin Confoience.

gifts,

imbibed such a vast amount of ^

respecting the that

little

known

venture to say

I

territories of

fev7

knowledf^e

local

West

Africa,

Foreign Ministers ever

2)ossessed.

On September

13th

Prince

Bismarck writes

Baron de Courcel, French Ambassador " Like France, the

German Government

to

at Berlin

will ohserve a friendly attitude

towards the Belgian enterprises on the banks of the Congo, owing to the

by the two Governments to secure to their countrymen freedom of trade throughout the whole of the future Congo States, and in desire entertained

the districts which France holds on this river, and which she proposes to assimilate to the liberal

system which that State

is

expected to establish.

by German subjects, and will be guaranteed to them in the event of France being called upon to exercise the right of preference accorded by the King of the Belgians in the contingency of the acquisitions made by the Congo Company being These advantages

will continue to be enjoyed

alienated."

It should

be observed here that the International

Association, after the publication of the Anglo-Portu-

guese Treaty, and perceiving no other consequences of

was attached a

it,

The

escape the

had signed an agreement,

m.ap, with France, fifty-seven

or on April 23rd, the text of which "

way to

is

it

which

days

as follows

International Association of the Congo, in the

Stations and territories which

to

name

later,

:

of the Free

has established on the Congo and in the

valley of the Niadi-Kwilu, formally declares that

it

will not cede

them

any Power under reserve of the special Conventions which might be concluded between France and the Association with a view to settling the limits and conditions of their respective action. But the Association, to

wisliing to aff(«-d a

pledges

itself to

new

])roof of its friendly feeling

give her the right of preference,

if

towards France,

through any unforeseen

circumstances tho Association were one day led to realise (Signed)

its

possessions.

" Strauch."

Mons. Jules Ferry, President of the Council,

re-

France

to

plied

in

terms which

formally

pledged

respect the territories of the Association.

FRANCE AND GERMANY.

389

Prince Bismarck continues

Th.T Bi'iliii

Couferenco.

" The exchange of views -which I have had the honour of holding witli your Excellency proves that the two Governments are equally desirous of

applying to the navigation of the Congo and the Niger the principles adojited by the Congress of Vienna, with a view to assuring the freedom

and subsequently applied to same time the regular development Africa, it would be useful to arrive at an agreement to be observed with a view to new occupations on

of navigation of several international rivers,

the Danube. of

In order

European trade

in

as to the formalities

to secure at the

the coasts of Africa being regarded as effective.

I beg that your Excellency have the goodness to propose to the Government of the Republic that it should recognise the identity of our views on these points by means of an exchange of notes, and should invite the other Cabinets interested in African commerce to pronounce themselves in a Conference to be convoked to this intent upon the stipulations agreed upon between the two Powers. will

"Von

(Signed)

The French Ambsssador,

Baron

de

Bismarck."

Courcel,

in

replying to this communication, states that he has not failed to convey to his Government Prince Bis-

marck's note, which in substance was similar to the

views exchanged between them at Yarzin. the

French Republic

completely in accord with the

is

Imperial Government of ability of arriving at a

Also that

Germany about

the

desir-

mutual understanding respect-

ing the delimitation of territory over the West Coast of Africa, especially where

the

border on those of the French.

German

He

possessions

likewise acknow-

ledges that the friendly accord between the two Govern-

ments

is

connected with principles of

importance to trade in Africa, of are those which

highest

which the chief

must govern the freedom of trade

the basin of the Congo. that

the

He

in

also assents to the idea

whereas the African International Association,

which has established a number of

stations

on the

TEE CONGO.

390 The Berlin Conference.

Cougo, declares itself ready to admit that principle n i t-< over all the territory under its control, Francs should •

i



i

grant freedom of trade over or

may

hereafter

declares

own on

i

i

tliat

i

which she now owns,

the Congo, and that France

her willingness to

permit this freedom to

continue in the event of her reaping the benefit of the

arrangements

upon

touched

by the Prince, which

assures to France the right of preference in case of

by the Asso-

the alienation of the territories acquired ciation.

He

commerce

defines freedom of

access to all flags,

and the interdiction of

or diS'erential duties

ment of taxes

to

to

mean

all

monopoly

free

but not excluding the establish-

;

compensate for useful expenditure

incurred in the interests of commerce.

AVhile freely

extending these beneficial concessions to commercial enterprise

in

states that

France

Congo

the

is

the

With

Niger.

Baron

de

Courcel

not willing that Gaboon, Guinea,

or Senegal should share

and

basin,

them

;

other

but solely the

views

Congo

expressed

Prince Bismarck, the French Government

we

by

are told,

holds identical ideas, and Mons. Jules Ferry acquiesces witli the

Prince in sending an invitation to the other

Cabinets interested in African trade, for the purpose of

convening

a

Conference which

upon the respective

shall

pronounce

stipulations mutually agreed

upon

by France and Germany.

On

the 2nd of October Baron de Courcel

to a letter addressed to



him by Prince Bismarck

replies :

" My Prince, I have lost no time in informing my Government of the views expressed in the communication of your Serene Highness, dated

PLENIPOTENTIARIES AT BERLIN.

391

September 30th, respecting the meeting at Berlin of a Conference of the xhe

West inform you of

representatives of the different nations interested in the trade of Africa.

The Government

of the Eepublic instructs

me

to

acquiescence in your suggestions regarding the date of the opening of the Conference, and tlie procedure to be followed for the invitation. M. Jules Ferry thinks, like your most Serene Highness, that besides its

France and Germany, the Powers which ought first of all to take part in this Conference are Great Britain, the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, Belgium, and the United States of North America. He also concurs in

your opinion, that in order to assure the general assent to the resolutions it would be advisable to invite later on all the great Powers and the Scandinavian States to associate themselves with the

of the Conference,

deliberations.

"Alphonse de Couucel."

(Signed)

Accordingly, invitations were issued to the under-

mentioned Grovernraents, and on the lath of November there were gathered at Berlin the following plenipotentiaries,

who were empowered

to take

part in the

Conferences. For the German Empire and the

Kingdom

of Prussia

.

Otho, Prince de Bismarck, President of the

Council of Ministers, and Chancellor of the

German Empire.

Paul, Count Hatzfeldt, ^linister of State

and Secretary

for

Foreign

Dr. Auguste Busch,

Affairs.

Under Secretary

of

State for Foreign Affairs.

For the Austrian Empire, Kingdom of Bohemia, and of Hungary For the Kingdom of Belgium

....

Herr Henri de Kusserow, Counsellor in the Department of Foreign Affairs. Emeric, Count Szechenyi de Sarvuri FelsoVidck, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary. Gabriel,

Envoy

Count von der Straten Ponthos, Extraordinary and Minister

PleniiDotentiary.

August, Baron Lambermont, Minister of State, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary.

For the Kingdom of Denmark

Emile de Vind, Envoy Extraordinary and

For the Kingdom

Don Francisco Merry y Colom, Count de Benomar, Envoy Extraordinary and

Minister Plenipotentiary. of Spain

.

Minister Plenipotentiary.

Berlin Conference.

THE CONGO.

392 The Berlin Conference.

For the Republic of the United States of North America

John A. Kasson, Esq., Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary. Henry S.Sanford, Esq., formerly American

For the Republic of Franco

Alphonse Baron de Courcel, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary Sir Edward Baldwin Malet, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary.

.

Minister to Belgium.

For the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and the Empire of India. Edward, Count de Launay, Ambassador For the Kingdom of Italy Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary. For the Kingdom of the Phillippe Frederic, Jonkhecr Van der Iloeven, Envoy Extraordinary and Netherlands and the Duchy Minister Plenipotentiary. of Luxembourg. For the Kingdom of Portugal Senhur da Serra Gomes, Marquis de Penafiel, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister and the Algarves. .

.

.

.

.

.

.

Pleuii^otentiary.

Senhur Antoine Serpa de Pimentel, Councillor of State.

For the Empire of

all

the

Count Kapnist, Privy Counsellor, Envoy Extraordinary, and Minister Plenipotentiary to the King of the

Pierre,

Eussias

Netherlands.

For the Kingdom of Sweden

Gillis,

and Norway

Baron

Bildt, Lieut.-General,

Envoy

Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary.

For the Empire of the Otto-

Mchemed

mans

High Ambassador Extraordinary

SaVd Pacha, Vizier and

Dignitary,

and Plenipotentiary.

In the suite and attached to these high and puissant functionaries were the various delegates

who were

either appointed

and experts

by their respective Govern-

ments or by the Plenipotentiaries themselves. With the German Representatives French Ambassador „ .

Herr Adolphe Woerman. Mons. Dubuisson. Mons. Engelhardt. Dr. Ballay.

British

Ambassador

Italian

Ambassador

Hon. Robert H. Meade. Henry Percy Anderson, Esq. Mr. Hemming. Mr. W. E. Crowe. Count Christoforo Negri. Senator Montegazza.

THE MAIN OBJECTS OF THE CONFERENCE. With

the Spanish Ambassador

.

Col. Cocllo

.

393

y Dusada, PrcRidcnt of The

Berlin Conference.

the Spanish African So;-iciy.



Dutch Ambassador



Portuguese



Belgian Ambassador



American Plenipotentairies

.

A. D. Bloeme, Esq., of Banana Point,

.

Kepresenta-

Capt. Carlos

fives

The

Congo Eiver. Senhur Luciano Cordeiro.

.

du Bocage.

Col. Strauch,

.

Mons. Emile Banning. The Author, as Technical Adviser.

secretaries of the Conference

of the French Embassy, Count

were Mons. Raindre,

Wm.

Bismarck, and

Yice-Consul Dr. Schmidt.

The

sittings

were held

in the

German

palace on Wilhelmstrasse, in the same

Chancellor's

room where

tlie

Berlin Congress sat in 1878.

When

the

members of the Conference had assembled,

the afternoon of the 15th of November, Prince Bismarck rose to formally open

it,

and

in his short address

he

declared that the Conference had met for the solution of three main objects, namely

The

1.

:



free navigation, with

freedom of trade, on

the River Congo. 2. 3.

The free navigation of the River Niger. The formalities to be observed for valid annexation

of territory in future on the African continent. Sir

Edward Malet

replied, that while

he echoed the

philanthropic sentiments of the Prince, and accepted the above three points for discussion, his

was

Government

willing to see the principles of Free Trade ap-

plied to the Niger, but stipulated that the surveillance

over the execution of those principles should not be conceded to any international body, as that was the

duty and privilege of Great

Britai)i,

being the chief

THE CONGO.

3U4 The Berlin Couference.

Hot

if

the

Power

proprietary

sole

on

the

Lower

Nio'er.

In order to make a consecutive narrative of the principal events connected with the sittings, I append

a brief diary of the

events 'whicli led to the

final

act.*

November

iOth.

— Portugal declares

its

acceptance of

the principle of freedom of commerce.

Count de Launay declared

his adhesion to the prin-

Free Trade and navigation.

ciples of

The American Minister makes a speech with the Invoked his

which the Conference has been

princij)les for ;

is

harmony

in

complimentary to the author, and informs that

colleagues

author has been

the

appointed

technical delegate for the United Slates.

A

Commission

be appointed to consider the

to

is

boundaries and the extent of the territories In Western

Africa in which Free Trade

The

is

to be established.

plenipotentiaries are entertained at dinner

Count Hatzfeldt, Secretary of Foreign

November

20th.

plenipotentiaries

of the

Congo

to speak, as

—A

by

Affairs.

Commission composed of the

and delegates considered the

definition

There was a curious reluctance

basin.

though there was some grand scheme of

State policy involved. stated that the

Finally Mons. Banning briefly

Congo basin

drained by the river.

signified the area of land

Colonel Strauch acquiesced in

Mons. Bannlng's remarks. of delegates was asked, * See

I

being next on the

and replied Appendix,

at

roll

length (see

DEFINITION OF THE CONGO BASIN. Appendix), arguing

380 miles wide

for

a

broad

commercial

it

Berlin Conference.

would be wise

to

is,

2° 30' S. Lat,

to

also suggested, quite unexpectedly to the

that

delta The

a free commercial basin, that

to

from the moutli of the Loge river

and

395

members,

extend the same liberty for

trade across Africa to within one degree from the sea-

N. Lat.

coast from

Zambezi. endorsed

5° to

and inclusive of the lower

Mr. Anderson, of the English Foreign

mv

outlet to the

Office,

remarks about the breadth of the commercial basin of the Congo.

de Bloeme, on the part of Holland, also

The Portuguese

ported the proposition.

free

Mons.

warmly

sup-

delegates pro-

posed to narrow the outlet solely to the river-mouth. Dr. Ballay argued that the outlet to the commercial basin should be restricted to the affluents flowing to

the Congo below Stanley Pool, which near the mouth

would be only twenty miles wide.

November the

24th.

definition

of

—The the

Commission

free

the commercial basin as

littoral

finally

accepts

or debouchure

of

proposed by Mr. Anderson,

M. de Bloeme and myself, and agreed that the same freedom far

as

of

the

commerce should be extended Indian

Ocean, with

now

rights of suzerainty

due reserve

east to

as

the

existing along the Oriental

coast.

Mons. de Bloeme delivered an interesting speech respecting the Dutch

commerce on the Congo, and

Herr Woerman gave evidence extent of the trade on the

West

as to the character

and

Coast.

This evening I dined w^ith Prince Bismarck.

I

am

THE CONGO.

396 The Berlin Conference.

glad to liavG Seen the grand man, but I rejoiced to discover that the

attained

is

due solely

to

grandeur

to

am

still

more

which he has

his honesty, resolution,

and

by any one grain

clear-eyed common-sense, unalloyed of cant or false sentiment.

November

30th.

at in favour of ,

defined I

— An unanimous decision was arrived

freedom of trade throughout the newly-

Congo basin

Appendix

(see

made a speech about the

enterprise in the

December

3rd.

Congo

— The

for the Declaration).

religious

and missionary

basin. special sub-committee continued

deliberations for the Actes de Navigation.

Its

The day

before Sir E. Malet, on the part of England, declared that " Great Britain engages herself to protect mer-

chants and foreigners of

all

nations engaging In com-

merce In those portions of the course of the Niger

which are or

will be

under

its

sovereignty or

protectorate equally as if they were

Its

own

Its

subjects,

provided always that these merchants conform to the reorulations

which are or

will be established in terms

of that which precedes."

Mr.

Wm.

H.

Tisdel, appointed

Government, has just

upon the advantages

December

13th.

by the United States

set out for the

to

American

Congo

to report

trade.

— The Grand Committee of the Con-

ference approved the

Congo and Niger Acts of Navi-

gation.

December

17th.

— On the 8th of November Germany

recognised the International Sir

Edward

Association,

and to-day

Malet, on behalf of Great Britain, followed

THE ACTES DE NAVIGATION

397

her example on conditions nearly similar to those ofjTh: Berii:; Conference. /-i n^^ i T Germany. The question or dehmitation of course is •

not touched

upon



/•





r>

some agreement has been

until

arrived at with France and Portugal.

December l8th.

—There

was a

plenipotentiaries to-day, at gation for both Niger and

December

19th.

full

meeting of the

which the Actes de Navi-

Congo were approved.

—Italy signed

the Convention with

Colonel Strauch to-day, recognising the International Association.

A

scheme was brought out

at the Conference for the

enforcement of temperance on the Congo by it

but

Italy,

was strenuously opposed by Germany and Holland.

Baron de Courcel produced a coimter-motion, which

more

likely to be accepted.

December 22nd.

—The

approved the " motion

December 23rd.

"

—The

Commission discussed

on liquor

Conference accepted the ap-

but added that measures taken to prevent

not be taken

as

a breach

principles already accepted

ment

until the 5th of

December

24th.

and

traffic.

proval of the Commission regarding the liquor

shall

is

;

after

abuse

of the Free Trade

which an adjourn-

January was agreed

—Austria

its

traffic,

to.

recognised the flag of the

International Association as that of a friendly State in

terms similar to those of Germany, with reserving clauses respecting Consular jurisdiction like those

England and

Italy.

The diplomatic agents of the Association are

work

of

in Paris about a treatv with France.

at

THE CONGO.

398

Januaiy

The Berlin Conference,

1885.

5th,

— The

Conference resumed

.

.

,

.

its .

labours to-day, and discussed the propositions relating

by

to the slave trade tendered

As

Mr. John A. Kasson.

and

Sir E. B. Malet

embody both

recast, these

proposals, arid will form a separate declaration.

January

— The

plenipotentiaries received at a

6th.-

Conference held this day the draft Declaration relating

when taking

to the formalities to be observed

new

of

territory on the coasts of Africa.

the

necessity

the

other

and

to

of

It enjoins

simultaneous notitication to

a

Powers

signatory

make

possession

possession

to

valid,

obligations of such annexing

obtain

all

recognition,

and recognises the

powers

to establish

and

Tnaintain a jurisdiction sufficient to ensure the observ-

ance of peace as well as respect for acquired rights,

and

as

the

may

case

be

for

which freedom of trade and of

the

conditions

transit shall

under

have been

guaranteed.

January

7th.

trade in the ference.

It

— The

Congo says

:

Declaration prohibiting slave

was adopted by the Con-

basin "

Each of the Powers exercising

sovereign rights or influence in the regions forming the conventionally established Congo basin declare that these regions shall not be used as markets or routes of transit for the trade in slaves,

Each of these Powers binds at its disposal to put

those engaged in

A

an end

no matter of what

itself to use all

to this trade,

and

race.

the means to punish

it."

large assemblage from the

Westphalia honoured

me

Rhine Province and

with a banquet to-day, and

LECTURES AND BANQUETS. listened to

my

remarks about the advantages offered .

to

commerce January

basm

in the

8tb.

31)9



^

I-

ot the

I lectured to a

r^

Uongo. remarkably enthusiastic

audience at Frankfort this evening, on Central Africa,

and the

benefits likely to accrue to Europe,

A

labours of the Conference, established

Geographical

from the

diploma from the oldest

Society

in

Germany, and

another from Prince Hohenlohe Langenburg. on behalf of the

German

Colonial

Association, were

bestowed

on me. January

9th.



I lectured at

Wiesbaden

to-day,

and

was honoured with a banquet.

The

plenipotentiaries discuss the Declaration respect-

ing formalities, and several days' delay are caused principally through Sir E. Malet not having received definite instructions

from the British Foreign

OflSce

upon the points mentioned. January 19th.

are

Bismarck entertained the

and delegates

plenipotentiaries his palace.

— Prince

An

at a

banquet given at

interesting feature at these banquets

the elaborate menus

in

fashion

illustrating

the

Congo" and African scenery,

January 28th.

— After

a long delay the third point,

which referred to the foundation required on taking possession of a portion

programme of

the

of the African coast, in the

West African Conference, was

dis-

posed of to-day,

January to be

31st.

—The

official

report on the regulations

observed in regard to future annexations was

approved at a plenary

sitting of the Conference.

The Berlin Conference.

TEE CONGO.

400 The Berlin Conference.

Februaiy

5tb.

— France

concluded a treaty with the

-li •• -r-»-i i-ii International Association to-day at Pans, by which the i

frontiers

between their respective

nised to be as follows

:

On

territories are recog-

the north the course of the

Chiloango river, thence from

source to near

its

Man-

yanga, thence the River Congo, upward through the centre of Stanley Pool, and along the far as

Upper Congo

and inclusive of the basin of the Likona.

that of a friendly State, and the is

to use its

good

amicable understanding

The

be regarded by France as

flag of the Association is to

Republic

as

Government of the

offices in

between

the effecting an

Portugal and

the

Association.

February

6th.

—Russia formally recognised the Asso-

ciation Internationale

Convention with

its

February 10th. to-day,

President.

— Sweden

recognised the Association

and signed a Convention with

Februaiy 13th. at a

du Congo to-day, and signed a

meeting of

— The

it.

Acte Generale was discussed Mr. Kasson, on

this day's Conference.

behalf of the United States, opposed the proposal to

give

it

the form of a Treaty.

February 14th. to deliberate

—The Commission

upon the neutrality question.

February 15th. been at tion,

last

sat this afternoon

—A

Delimitation

Convention has

signed between Portugal and the Associa-

by which the former obtains

bank of the Congo from the sea

Uango-Ango.

The

line

all

the south or left

as far as the rivulet at

between these

territories

runs

south through the mouth of this rivulet, to the latitude

DELIMITATION CONVENTION.

Kwa

of Nokki, thence east to the 1

f

r^

1

401

On

Kwango.

or



T-»

the nttoral north oi the Congo, Jrortuguese territory

Red

begins at the Httle stream near Cabo Lombo, or

Point, and thence extends along the sea-coast to Mas-

In depth this territory extends inland about

sabe'.

35 miles, forming an enclave into that ceded to the Association.

The International Association has obtained these late Conventions with France

Lombo, twenty-two miles

and Portugal a

Banana Point

of sea-coast extending from

Uango-Ango

Ango

it

On

the south, or

rivulet,

and

ends at Lake Bangweolo.

runs south from the mouth of the Uango-

rivulet

to the

latitude

along that parallel to the line ascends the

to the

Ntombo Mataka,

territory of tlie Association begins at

bank, the

Inland

Cabo

above Manyanga Station, with back country

inland, as far as the Chiloango River. left

to

strip

All of the north,

in length.

or right bank, as far as the Cataract of tliree miles

throuo-h

Kwa

Kwa

to S.

of Nokki, thence east

Kwango, thence

or

lat.

G°,

which

it

the

follows

Ascending the Lubilash,

River Lubilash.

it

runs south to the water-parting between the Zambezi

and the Congo, which

From

it

Lake Bangweolo.

the eastern side of the lake the line runs to Lake

Tanganika, and follows influent,

long.

follows to

and up along

30°,

as

far as

its

western shore to the Rusizi

its

course until

it

touches east

the water-parting between

Congo and Nile waters, whence

it

strikes

ihe

westward

to

East long. 17°, and thence along that meridian south-

ward

to the

Likona Basin.

Vol. it.— 26

The Berlin Conference.

THE CONGO,

402 The Berlin *

February 19 th.

—The Commission was

afternoon in deliberating

engaged

this

upon the French neutrahty

proposal.

February

— The

neutrality question has been

Baron Lambermont's report on the

adopted.

was

21st.

final

Acte

read.

February 23rd.

— Belgium

has formally recognised

^

the International Association, the Treaty being signed to-day.

Denmark

nition of the

new

has also declared by treaty it^ recogState of the Congo.

Busch, the acting President, communicated to

Dr.

the Conference the fact that nearly all

the

Powers

assembled had concluded Conventions for the recognition of the International

Association, and declared

not only his personal gratification at the news, but also

that

German Government

the

warmest sympathy with the magnanimous

King with

Le'opold II.,

cordial

assent,

of

efibrts

which had been so signally crowned

The assembled

success.

the

entertained

and on

delegates expressed their

their

part

recorded

the

in

protocol a similar testimony of their appreciation

the great

work of

the

King

of the

Belgians.

ot"

(See

Appendix.)

February 2Gth.

— The

final

Conference took place to-day.

plenary sitting of the Prince Bismarck occu-

pied the chair to formally close the meeting of representatives of the deliberate

The

Powers

whom

he had convoked to

upon the important questions now

final

Act, which

signed by the

is

settled.

engrossed on vellum, was

nineteen plenipotentiaries representing

CLOSE OF THE CONFEBENCE. fourteen rose

European

Powers.

Prince

403

Bismarck then

and introduced Colonel Strauch, the President of

the International Association, to the members, and an-

nounced that

lie,

on behalf of that Association in

its

recognised quality as the Congo State, had expressed

and signed

its

adhesion to the General Act of the West

African Conference.

After reviewing the labours of

that high diplomatic body, the Prince

concluded by

thanking the

name

plenipotentiaries

in

the

of the

Emperor.

Count de Launay, as doyen of the plenipotentiaries, returned the thanks of his illustrious associates, saying that

the

Conference was in a larce

success of the

measure due to the

My own

remarks upon the

must be brief

Chancellor.

laboin^s of the

Conference

Two European Powers emerge

the elaborate discussions period, principally

of

German

efforts of the

protracted

for

out of

such a long

through the adroitness and

skill

Baron de Courcel, and the concurrence of Prince

Bismarck, with enormously increased colonial possessions.

Prance

now

is

mistress of a

West African

terri-

tory, noble in its dimensions, equal to the best tropic

lands

for

resources,

its

vegetable productions, rich

most promising

for

its

future

in

mineral

commercial

importance.

In area

it

covers a superficies of 257,000 square

miles, equal to that of

France and England combined,

with access on the eastern side to 5200 miles of livernavigation

;

on the West

is

a coast-line nearly 800 miles

The Berlin

TEE CONGO.

404 The Beriia Conference

by the Atlantic ocean.

loDg, waslied ,

,

It contains within ,

,

.

,

its

borders eight spacious river basins, and throughout

all

its

.

.

.

.

,

broad surface of 90,000,000 square hectares,

not one utterly destitute of worth can be found.

Portugal issues out of the Conference with a coastline

English miles in length,

995

areas of

On

Great Britain. is

Belgium,

France, the

103 miles in length.

northward, mineral of

portion

regions in

its

were added

still

colonial

,8,300,000.

bank

boast of healthy

and rubber producing

fields

in

the north-eastern

and valuable If her

eastern borders.

river

its

agricultural

own

population

to the aboriginal population of this African

Portuguese

and

territory,

territory,

colonial

would

its

now

can

pastoral lands to the south, oil forests

Holland, and

Lower Congo, It

square

than the

extent, a territory larger

statute miles in

combined

351,500

be

and distributed over

sufficient

to

populations of

The

area, there

give 32| acres to each

and black

white

its

all

subject.

colours

Her home number now

area of her territories

Asia, and the oceans, measure

in

Africa,

741,343 square miles,

or 474,500,000 acres, sufficient to give each subject

57

acres.

Great Britain, on the other hand, with

all

her vast acreage of 5,05G millions of acres, can only give to each of her 249,000,000 of people the small portion of 20^ acres.

The

International Association surrendered

its

to 60,3 GO square miles of territory to France,

claims

and

to

Portugal 45,400 square miles, for which consideration

600 square miles of the north bank between Boma

ACQUISITIONS TO FRANCE AND PORTUGAL.

and the sea were conceded .

(,

nition

01

.

besides cordial recog- The

it, .

remaining

its

to

.

405

.

,

territorial

.

,

rights

Berlin Conference.

p

from two

powerful neighbours.

To

the world at large, the two powers above

men-

tioned have been also duly considerate, for the territories

surrendered to them by the Association have been

consecrated to free trade, which, along with those recognised as belonging to the Association and which were

pre-ordained for such uses, and those as yet unclaimed

by any Power, but leges,

still

reserved for the same privi-

form a domain equal

in extent, throughout

to 1,600,000 square miles

which most exceptional privileges

have been secured by the cordial unanimity

With due

commerce.

rights of Portugal

the

and European Powers

riveraine of the United States for

of

reserve for the sovereign

and Zanzibar,

this

Free Trade area

extends across Africa to within one degtee of the East Coast, thus enlarging the privileged commercial zone to 2,400,000 square miles.

Cynics

may declare, on

glancing over the large mile-

age proudly claimed to have been reserved for free

development and trade, that the advantages are only prospective

boundaries ments.

that

;

to

That

there are

no traders within

be benefited by these liberal is

true

enough

;

the

endow-

but the absorption of

Africa by European Powers was rapidly advancing,

and

considerins: that of the coasts there remained but

little

unoccupied,

it is

something surely to have rescued

such a large portion of Africa from possible commercial enterprise.

final

closure to

TEE CONGO.

406

Philanthropists argued very rationally in this wise:

The Berlin Conference.

" Africa

is

already popularly supposed to be the most

A

unhealthy continent in the world.

general dread of

climate prevails in the minds of men.

its

but lately explored in

few geographers

is

it

European Powers

are

its

interior,

and

It

to all except a

comparatively unknown.

customs and high

If

permitted to seize the coasts

round about the Continent, and levy the usual tial

has been

tariffs,

differen-

they will for ever prevent

commercial enterprise from essaying the exploitation of

any part of fertile

it.

If,

hov/ever,

and naturally productive

leges and absolute

these

territories larger privi-

immunity from oppression, a few

bold enterprising spirits inland,

we can guarantee

and their success

may

be tempted to venture

will induce others to follow,

until the continent is fairly

won from barbarism and

unproductiveness."

These philanthropic views have been

merchant adventurer

is

fenced

all

realised.

around with guaran-

tees against spoliation, oppression, vexation,

and is

The

his Consul, the representative of his

and worry,

Government,

charged with the jurisdiction over his person and

property.

At

the gateway to

the

realm

Commissioner, with

his

the

free

commercial

colleagues,

will

take position, and will remain there close at hand to protect his interests.

These

officials will constitute

a

Court of

Law

whom

can always appeal for redress and protection.

lie

called the International Commission, to

Only on the exportation of the produce he has

collected

can a moderate sum be charged, sufficient to remune-

SATISFACTORY DIPLOMACY. T

nil

cc

1 he liquor tramc

prohibited tection

To

all

Government

riveraine

the

rate

;

these

1

for

its

1

1

not be abused

the missionary

and

;

may

1

1

is

407 expenditure.

T

sJave-tradmg

;

The Berlin Conference.



is

entitled to special pro-

scientific expeditions to special privileges.

numerous privileges in behalf of commerce

and humanity, the European Powers, and the United States, as well as the International Association, other-

wise the Congo State, unanimously gave their approval,

and every

Power

political

left

the Conference with

unqualified satisfaction.

The author of to express his

this record likewise feels called

unbounded

satisfaction

with

all

upon

that has

been irrevocably fixed by the decrees of the assembled representatives of Europe.

He

expresses also his per-

sonal thanks to His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck,

and

German

to the

von Kusserow,

representatives. Dr.

remarkable patience they mani-

for the

fested during the protracted sitting, for the

most advanced ideas

which the to

least impatience

Baron de Courcel^

Busch and Herr

to

which gave time

mature and bear

fruit,

would have endangered

for the exquisite tact

he displayed

throughout his Presidency of the Commission, which

charmed all

all

who came

of the assembled

within his circle

;

to each

many All men

plenipotentiaries for their

kindnesses and their enlightened co-operation.

who

and

sympathise with good and noble works

— and this

has been one of unparalleled munificence and grandeur of ideas



will unite

King Leopold

IT.,

humanitarian and

with the author in hoping that

the Royal Founder of this unique political enterprise,

whose wisdom

TEE CONGO.

408 The Berlin Conference.

rightly guided

.,. sustained

it

it,

and whose moral courage bravely

.,

.

amid varying

......

a successful issue, will long live to behold State expand

and

,

,

vicissitudes to a

nappy and his

Free

flourish to be a fruitful blessing to

a region that was until lately as dark as sunless forest shades.

FINIS COROXAT OPUS.

its

own deep

APPENDIX. The Commercial Basin

of the Congo, as described by the

Author

before the berlin conference.

To

whether explored 7^^ Berlin very easy matter, since every schoolboy knows Conferenca. that a river basin geographically speaking includes all that territory drained by the river and its affluents, large and small. define the geographical basin of the Congo,

or unexplored, is a





The Congo, i:nlike many other large rivers, has no fluvial delta it issues into the Atlantic Ocean in one united stream between Shark's Point on the south and Banana Point on the north, with a breadth of seven miles and an unknown depth; soundings having been obtained over 1300 feet deep. The Niger has a fluvial delta extending over 180 miles of coast-line; the Nile and the ;

Mississippi have deltas extending over a considerable breadth of coast-line.

But when you ask me

as to

what

I should consider as

am bound

to answer you and its most important aftluents running into it from the north and south and from the north-east and northwest, east and west, south-east and south-west, constitute means by which trade ascending the river and its affluents can influence a much larger amount of territory than is comprised within the

the commercial basin of the Congo, I

that the

main

river

geographical basin.

For all practical purposes the geographical basin of the Congo might bo permitted to stand for the commercial basin of the Congo as well. When, however, we begin to consider the commercial outlets from this basin of the Congo, we must bear in mind that they extend, as a commercial delta to a commercial basin, from St. Paul de Loanda to the south of the mouth of the Congo, as far north and including the Ogowai Kiver. Whereas

APPENDIX.

410

littoral througli which the commercial The Berlin ^a^^ch of tlic Conference, bouches is already occupied, find that the hreadth of

we

delta

de-

what may

be considered as the free commercial delta of the commercial basin of the Congo extends along the coast-line from 1° 25' S. lat. to Bear 7° 50' S. lat., 385 geographical miles. For the following reason at Stanley Pool, 325 miles up the Congo from the sea, we encounter fleets of trading canoes which have descended the main :

up as the Equator from the affluents Mohindu or Black Eiver, and the Kwango or Kwa, who wait patiently months at a time for the caravans from Loango, the Kwilu, Landana, Kabinda, Zombo, Funta, Kinzao, Kinsembo, Ambrizette, and other places on the coast, which bring European goods from the coast to Stanley Pool to exchange for the produce of the Upper Congo, and after a time, notably ivory, rubber, and camwood powder having exchanged their goods, march back with such produce of the Upper Congo as will repay transport, to the European traders settled along the free coast-line of 385 geographical miles These various channels of trade, formed by uniust mentioned. instructed barbarism, may then well be compared to a commercial delta. To define the commercial basin of the Congo by boundaries is very simple after the above remarks, and I will describe them as folio \ys: Commencing from the Atlantic Ocean, I should follow the line of 1° 25' S. lat, east as far as 13° 13' Ion. east of Greenwich, and along that meridian north until the watershed of the Niger-Binue is reached, thence easterly along the watershed separating the waters flowing into the Congo from those flowing into the Shari, and continuing east along the water-parting between the waters of the Congo and those of the Nile, and southerly and easterly along the watershed between the waters flowing into the Tanganika and those flowing into the affluents of Lake Victoria, and still clinging to the watershed to the east of the Tanganika soiitherly until tlie water-parting between the waters flowing into the Zambesi and those flowing into the Congo thence along that Avatershed westerly until the head is reached river from as far

;

;

waters of the main tributary of the Kwango, or Kwa, is reached, whence the line shown runs along the left bank of the river

Kwango, or Kwa, Biver, and thence Atlantic Ocean.

to 7° 50' S. lat. alon<:^

By

;

thence straight to the Logo

the left bank of that river westerly to the

this delimitation

you will have comprised the its present commercial

geographical or commercial basin and delta.

Baron de Courcel asked Avhat might the value of the trade in

APPENDIX.

411

the Congo basin bo estimated at, to which Mr. Stanley replied The Berlin " The Lower Cony-o and the immediate free littoral make a shore- Conference, This mileage produces a line 388 English miles in length. :

present trade of £2,800,000 annually.

more ought

and, as

fertile,

The Upper Congo

is

much

has a river shore of 10,000 miles,

it

it

worth £70,000,000 manner, from the river

to produce, if equally developed, a trade

annually.

Gambia

Or, if

we reckon

it

in this

Loanda, along a coast-line of 2,900 miles in length, there are employed fortj^-five steamers and eighty sailing vessels every year. The Congo basin, with river banks over three times longer, ought to employ, if equally developed and equally exploited, three times that number, or say 135 steamers, and 240 to

sailing vessels."

The Hon. Mr. Kasson, Minister Mr. Stanley

if

for the

he would be good enough

United to

States,

asked

explain to their

Excellencies if a further extension of the free commercial territory to the eastwai'd would not be advantageous to commerce, to which Mr. Stanley rejdied I journeyed in the year, 1874, 1875, 187G, and 1877 across Africa from east to west— that is to say from Bagamoyo, opposite Zanzibar, to Lake Victoria. I circumnavi:

gated that lake, and thence proceeded west and discovered MutaNzige. Eetraciug my steps to Lake Victoria, I journeyed to Lake

Tanganika, which lake I also circumnavigated, and then proceeded to Nyangwe and down the Congo Kiver to the Atlantic This journey was made across 25° of longitude and up ll'' of latitude and I declare solemnly to you that, from a distance of ten miles from Bagamoyo, my starting-place on the east coast of Africa, until I sighted an English flag at the mastOcean.

and down

;

head of a merchant river-steamer on the Congo, along a journey of 7G00 miles, I never saw a flag, or an emblem, or symbol, flagstone, or

iron, to indicate

staff,

erection

come

across civilised, or semi-civilised,

of w^ood,

power

that I had

or authority; the

authority I encountered everywhere being the authority of independent native chiefs, exacting tribute on the eastern half, and opposing violence on the western half. At Ujiji and Nyangwe I

community of Arabs settled at each place. But they were isolated and cut off by want of connection from their parent state at Zanzibar, and all comers hither had been compelled to submit to pay tribute to the Wagogo, the Wahha, the Wavinza, and the Wakaranga, independent native tribes who demanded the tribute in recognition of their rights to the soil over which the caravans passed. Therefore, this being the case, I would propose

did meet a trading

APPENDIX.

412 The Berlin Conference,

that the free commercial territory across central Africa should be

Beginning at the Atlantic comprised within the following limits Ocean at S. latitude 1° 25', this line should run along that parallel :

east to longitude 13° 30' from the GreenAvich meridian, thence north along the meridian of 13^ 30' to N. latitude 5° thence along that parallel of latitude continuously east to within one geogra;

phical degree from the Indian Ocean.

should continue parallel with

the

distance of one geographical degree

From

east

down

this point the line

African coast

at

the

bank of the eastern line and

to the right

Zambesi, and the following rivers piercing this having their exit into the Indian Ocean: The Jub, the Tana,

Eovuma, and the up as five miles above the confluence of the Shire and the Zambesi should be declared free to navigation thence from that point on the right bank of the Zambesi, across that river and along the water passing between waters flowing to Lake Nyassa, and those flowing direct to other affluents of the Zambesi, northerly as far as the Congo and Zambesi

the Pangani, the

Zambesi — the

Wami,

the Eufiji, or Lufiji, the

latter as far

;

watershed

;

thence westerly along that waterslied until the head

waters of the

Kwango

or

Kwa

shall

have been reached, whence

the line shall follow the left bank of the principal tributary to S. latitude 7° 50', and from that point the line to extend westward of the Logo river, and following the left bank of that river westerly to the Atlantic Ocean. Within the above described limits, the Congo basin, in addition to the lacustrine basins of the Lakes Victoria, Albert, and Nyassa, and the river basins of the lower Jub, the Tana, the Pangani, the Wami, the Lufii, the Rufiji, and the Rovuma, are comprised and I respectfully submit that the more unrestricted this spacious commercial domain shall be the sooner it will be subjected to the influences of Christianity, civilisation, and commerce. It bears within itself nearly all the products required by the necessities of Europe, and all the elements that might be needed for its conversion from ;

being an unproductive waste to be a material and moral profit to humanity. Within its bosom it contains nearly 80,000 square miles of lake water, the second largest river and river-basin in the world, fertility that no equatorial or tropical regions elsewhere

can match, a population of

people,

great

I

should estimate at ninety millions

independent

native empires, kingdoms, and Uganda, Ruanda, Unyoro, and the pastoral plain the Masai Land gold and silver deposits, abundant

republics, like

country like

;

copper and iron mines, valuable forests producing priceless timber,

APPENDIX. inexhaustible quantities of rubber,

413

precious

gums and

spices, xhe Berlin

pepper and coffee, cattle in countless herds, and people who are Conference, amenable to the courtesies of life provided they are protected from the attacks of the lawless freebooter and the murderous wiles of the slave-traders. to

justify

me

These

facts, I respectfully

in suggesting that the

submit, are sufficient

more comprehensible yet

simple limits just described should form the boundaries of the free

commercial territory of Equatorial Africa, and that free, unrestricted means of access should be secured to it, both from the east as well as from the west. Baron do Courcel questioned Mr. Stanley as to the actual trade at present in the Upper Congo by which it might be known what existing inducements there were for the construction of a railway.

Mr. Stanley replied that at present on the Upper Congo, according goods and articles required by the French two English Mission Societies, the International Association, and native caravans would, if constrained to pay the railway the same prices as now paid for human transport, be sufficient to pay 5 per cent, on a capital of £860,000, which was ample to his calculations, the

settlements, the

for the construction of a light railway

from Vivi to Isangila, four

steamers at £10,000 each, between Isangila and Manyanga, and a

Manyanga and Leopoldwas necessary to construct a direct line to Leopoldville from Vivi, the cost would be £1,500,000, inclusive of all expenses, and a flotilla to ply between the sea and Vivi. railway section 95 miles long between ville.

Sir

If,

however,

it

Edward Malet asked Mr. Stanley

if,

in his opinion, the line

would be sufficient as a commercial outlet for the commerce of the Congo basin ? Mr. Stanley replied Certainly not. It might be a sufficient outlet for the main channel of the river and the lower portions of the affluents flowing into that channel, but it would not be a sufficient outlet for the upper portions of the southern affluents, inasmuch as those find an outlet by the caravan route, via Bihe to Bengiiella and Angola, and Cassange to Angola, and the northern portions of the north-western streams flowing info the Congo would naturally seek the caravan routes to the Gaboon, the Ogowai, and the of railway from Vivi to Stanley Pool

:

Kwilu-Niadi.

I therefore strictly adhere to

my

delimitation of

the commercial basin which I have already had the honour of describing to your Excellency.

His Excellency the Plenipotentiary for the Government of the Netherlands remarked that Mr. Cameron had written a book wherein it

was stated that canals might be constructed with advantage.

APPENDIX.

414

him

He

whether he wotild be obliged if Mr. Stanley woiild inform The Berlin Conference, j^^d seen any localities where canals might be advantageously conMr. Stanley replied that he knew only of one place, and Mantumba and Lake Leopold II., by

structed.

that was between Lake

which a canal might easily be constructed, of a length of 25 miles, to connect the two places along a depression which showed that at high A7ater it was possible the two lakes might even be

now

connected.

inquii-ed whether there were any tunnels to be made along the proposed railway between Vivi and Stanley Pool ? Mr. Stanley replied in the negative. After some remarks from Dr. Ballay depreciatory of the value

Baron de Courcel

Congo basin, and of the Ogowai river as a channel for transporting produce from the upper Congo to the Whereas Dr. Ballay ascended sea, Mr. Stanley replied as follows of the produce of the

:

the OgOAvai

river,

Alima river ties

Upper

to the

the watershed, and descended the Congo with a steamer and large quanti-

crossed

of goods, and wliereas M. de Brazza likewise ascended the

Ogowai

and descended the Alima

river

struck across to Stanley Pool,

occasion

must

river, it

is

and on a former evident that the

be considered as a stream belonging to the commercial delta of the commercial basin of the Congo. And whereas in 1881 I received from M. de Brazza a letter wherein he

Ogowai

river

also

recommended my sending by the Ogawai and officers incapacitated by sickness from further work, as from experience he jiidged tliat route to be shorter and superior to the route by the Congo to the sea, I am bound to take M. de Brazza's own written statements, and Messrs. de Brazza and Ballaj^'s successes by the Ogowai-Alima route and Ogowai-Stanley Pool route as indisputable proofs of the stated that he strongly

route

my

letters,

correctness of

Congo, Avith

commerce

my

its

to

assertions that if the commercial basin of the

various outlets to the sea, shall be declared free for

come and go untaxed, the

northern limit at

free littoral should

S. lat. 1° 25' to long. 13° 30' east

have

its

of Greenwich,

and thence north along that meridian to the water-parting between the waters flowing to the Niger-Binue and those flowing to the Congo, and that the southern limit of the littoral will be just if fixed at the mouth of tlie Loge river, thence east along that river easterly to the left bank of the Kwango or Kwa river at S.

lat.

V

50'.

APPENDIX.

PROTOCOL,

415

No.

9.

February

The of

sitting opened M. BUSCH.

at half-past

Three

o'clock,

23r(?,

1885.

under the Presidency The

Berlin Conference.

The Piesident, before proceeding to the order of the da}', communicated totlie High Assembly a letter which had been addressed to His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck by the President of the International Aesociatiou of the Congo, and

terms

which was

in these

:

" PiiiNCE.

—The

International

Association

concluded treaties in succession with

all

at the Berlin Conference (except one)

contain a provision recognising

The

State or Government.

its

of

Congo has

the

the Powers represented

which among their clauses

flag

as

negotiations in

that of a friendly

progress with

tlie

remaining Power will, there is every reason to hope, have an early and favourable termitiation. I bring this fact to the knowledge of your Serene Highness in accordance with the wishes of His Majesty the King of the Belgians in liis capacity as Founder of the Association.

"The meeting and the deliberations of the i;minent Assembly now in session at Berlin under your High Presidency have materially contributed to hasten this felicitous result. ference, to

which

hope, be disposed exclusive mission

The Con-

I beg to offer due homage, will, I venture to to is

Power -whose and commerce into an additional token of the results due to

consider the accession of a to introduce civilisation

the interior of Africa as its importai.t labours.

" I am, with the profoundest respect. " Your Seiene Highness's most

humble and

most obedient servant, " Strauch. " Berlin, 2drd February, 1885.

"

To His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck, " President of the Berlin Conference."

APPENDIX.

416 ^,



,•

The Berlin Conference.

this communication spoke as follows c ^• Gentlemen, I believe I am expressing the unanimous teeling of the Conference in welcoming as a happy event the communication which has been made to us and which informs us of the

M. BuscH having; ° read

:



"





^

almost unanimous rerognition of tlie International Association of the Congo. AVe all of us do justice to the elevated purpose of the work to which His Majesty the King of the Belgians has lent his us recognise the efforts and sacrifices by means of which he has guided it to the point it has reached to-day we are all desirous that the most complete success may crown an enter-

name

;

we

all of

;

which can support so usefully the objects the Conference has had in view." Baron de Courcel then spoke as follows "As representing a Power whose possessions border on those of the International Association of the Congo, I note with satisfaction prise

:

the step taken by that Association in informing us of its entrance In the name of my Government I beg to into international life. express the wish that the State of the Congo as

now

territorially

constituted within definite boundaries will soon provide regular

governmental organization for the vast domain whose prosperity has been entrusted to it. Its neighbours will be the first to i-ejoice at its progress, for they will be the first to profit by the development of its prosperity and by all those guarantees of order, safety, and good administration with which it has undertaken to

endow the interior of Africa. " The new State owes its birth

to the generous aspirations

and

enlightened initiative of a Prince respected throughout Europe.

from its cradle to the practice of every liberty. Assured of the unanimous goodwill of the Powers here represented, let us join in the hope that it will fulfil the destiny promised for it under the wise direction of its august founder, whose conIt h;is been devoted

trolling infiuence is the best assurance for its future."

Count Kapnist desired tions, in the

and

to join, in accordance

homage rendered by

fertile initiative of

His Majesty the King of the Belgians.

Edward Malet then spoke as follows The part taken by Her Majesty's Government

Sir

"

with his instruc-

his colleagues to the enlightened

:

in recognising

the flag of the Association as that of a friendly Government enables

me

to express the satisfaction

constitution of this

new

with which we view the

State due to the initiative of His Majesty

the King of the Belgians.

For many years the King,

for purely

philanthropic motives, has spared nothing, neither personal effort

APPENDIX. nor pecuniary

could contribute to the realisation of

sacrifice, that

The world

417 1885.

in j^jeneral regarded Ids efforts v;ith in-

^*^^- ^'^•

Here and there His Majesty received a little sympathy, but it was rather the sj'inpathy of condolence than that of encouragement. It was thought tliat the undertaking was beyond his stiength, that it was too great to succeed. It is now seen that the King was right, and that Ids idea was not Utopian. He has brought

Berlin-

his object. difference.

without difficulties, but these very have made the success more striking;. In acknowledo-ing the obstacles which His Majesty has had to contend with, we most cordially greet the new-born State, and give expression to it

to a successful ending, not

difficullies

our sincere dcbire that

it

may

flourish

and increase under his

protection.

"I may

also be permitted on this occasion to express our

acknowand to the Minister of Porl.ugal at Berlin for the friendly reception which they accorded to the suggestions we had die honour tu address to them on the subject of an arrangenient between Portugnl and the Association, and for the spirit of conciliation with which they have brought ledgments

to the

Government

of Portugal

those negotiations to a successful close."

The Marquis of Penafiel, Congo State, declared

the

as representing a his

participation

expressed by Baron Courcel in his address

tif

Power bordering on in

the sentiments

welcome

to the

new

State.

Count de Launay joined most cordially

in

what had been

said

the President, by Baron Courcel, and by Sir Edward Malet.

by

The

Powers here represented had already almost unanimously recognised new State which had just been founded under the august patronage of a sovereign \w\\o during eight years, with a constancj- rare and worth}' of great praise, had spared neither trouble nor personal sacrifice for the success of a noble and philanthropic enterprise. The whole world bore witness by its sympathy and encouragement to this work of civilisation and humanity, wliich was an honour to the nineteenth century, and of which mankind in general would the

for ever reap the benefit.

The Italian Ambassador also joined with pleasure in the sentiments expressed by the British Ambassador, with regard to the Portuguese Government and its Plenipotentiaries at the Conference.

Count SzficHfiNYi spoke to the same effect as his colleagues, in whose sentiments he shared in every respect. Count Benomar said that Spain was the possessor of teriitories

Vol. II.- 27

AFPENDIX.

418 1885.

in the nei^libourhood of those under the control of the Interna-

l-eb. 2i.

As representing a neighbouring fully supported all that Government, state, he, in the name of his work of humanity and the favour said in of President had the civilisation originated by His Majesty the King of the Belgians. M. de ViND was happy to join in the good wishes which had already been expressed for the happiness and prosperity of the new Congo state. The humanitarian and civilizing object of its founders was highly appreciated by the Danish Government. The Plenipotentiary of Sweden and Norway also joined in the good wishes at the birth of the new State, and in favour of its

Berlin.

^JQjjr^i

Association of the Congo.

development.

Mr. Sanford said that the Government of the United States of America had been the first to publicly acknowledge the great civilizing work of King Leopold II. by recognising the flag of the International Association of the

He was happy

Congo

as that of a friendly govern-

example had been followed only remained for him to express his hope that he would see the crowning of the work in the participation of the Association in the Acts of the Conment.

by the Powers

to find that this

of the Old World, and

it

ference.

Said Pasha regretted that he was not yet able to join in the sympathetic declarations of his colleagues.

had elapsed since

officially

Only a few days

this question of recognising the flag of the Inter-

national Association had arisen.

There had not been sufficient time on the subject, but while awaiting those instructions, he could say that personally he had nc for

him

to receive his instructions

objection to the coustitiition of the

new

State.

Count Van der Straten Ponthoz thanked the President for the terms in which he had spoken of His Majesty the King of the Belgians. The sentiments thus expressed would be gratefully received by the King and the Belgian nation and Count Van der Straten Ponthoz would convey those sentiments to them without He was also bound to tell the Members of the High delay. Assembly how deeply he was sensible of the sympathetic and unanimous approbation they had given to what had fallen from j\I. Busch. The praise bestowed on the initiative pursued by the King of the Belginns despite so many obstacles, was praise well merited. The Acts of the Conference gave practical expression to His Majesty's bold and generous ideas. The Government and the Belgian nation would adhere with gratitude to the work elaborated by the High Assembly, and thanks to which there was henceforth ;

APPENDIX.

419

new State ait" the same time as regulawere laid down in the general interest of mankind, Baron Lambkrmont spoke as follows

assured the existence of the tions

.

:

" If the President of the International Association of the Cono-o

had the honour to sit amongst you, it would fall to him to reply to the words we have heard to-day, and which are so appreciative of the King of the Belgians and of his work. In his absence, and although representing His Majesty under another title, my colleague and I thought we might be allowed to testify how fully we are sensible of the compliment you have paid to the Founder of the Association.

Count Van der Straten has expressed his sentiments, and in them I cordially join. We are well aware that we cannot go too far in expressing in advance our gratitude, for we do so in His Majesty's name, in recognition of thej support that his enterprise has received amongst you, and which support is not the least "

important guarantee of its success." The President announces that the letter of the President of the International Association of the Congo, and the various declarations it had given rise to would become the Protocol of the sitting. It considered convenient by many of the Plenipotentiaries that in order to complete Colonel Strauch's communication, copies of the is

by which the International Association had obtained the recognition of the several Governments should be bound different treaties

toorether

and annexed

to the Protocol.

DECLARATIONS EXCHANGED BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES OF Al\IERICA AND THE INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO.

The

International Association of the

Congo declares by these

presents, that in viitue of the treaties concluded with the legiti-

mate sovereigns,

in the basins of the

Congo and Niadi-Kwilu and

in the territories bordering on the Atlantic, there has been ceded

and

Free States, alread}' under the protection and surveillance of the said Association in the said basins and adjacent territories, and that the said Free States succeed to the full rights of

to it a territory for the use

profit of the

established, or in course of establishment,

this cession.

That the said International Association has adopted as its

flag as

i885. Feb. 23. Berlin.

APPENDIX,

420 1884. April 22.

^""'i"^'

well for itself as for the said Free States the flag of the International

African Association, that t'^e

is to say,

a blue flag with a golden star in

centre.

That the

and the said States have resolved

said Association

to

levy no customs dues on goods or products imported into their territories, or carried on the roads that have been constructed round the cataracts of the Congo this resolution has been taken so as to ;

encourage trade in making its way into Equatorial Africa. That they assure to strangers who settle in their territories the right to buy, sell, or lease the lands and buildings therein situated, to es^tablish houses of business, and to trade on the sole condition They undertake in addition never to accord of obeying the laws.

an advantage

to the citizens of

extending the same to

all

one nation without immediately

other nations, and to do

power

all in their

to stop the slave-trade.

In witness whereof, Henry effect

by the

S. Sanford,

said Association, acting for

duly authorised to that and in the name of the

it,

said estates has hereto affixed his signature

and his

seal the

22nd

of April, 1884, at the city of Washington,

(Signed)

H.

S.

Sanford. L.S.

Frederic T. Frelinghuysen, Secretary of State, duly authorized by the President of the United States of America, and

to that effect

in conformity with the advice

and consent given to that

effect

by

the Senate, acknowledges to have received from the Association of

the Congo the above declaration, and declares that in accordance

with the traditional policy of the United States, which enjoins their carefid attention to the commercial interests of American citizens, avoiding at the same time all interference in the controversies engaged in between other powers, or the conclusion of alliances with foreign nations, the Government of the United States declares its sympathy with and approbation of the humane and noble object of the International As-sociation of the Congo, acting in the interest

of the Free States established in that region, officers of

and commands

all

the United States, either on land or sea, to recognize the

flag of the International Association as that of a friendly

Govern-

ment.

In witness whereof, ho has hereunder affixed his signature and 22nd of AprU, 1884, in the city of Washington.

his seal this

(Signed)

Fred. T. Frelinghuysen. L.S.

APPENDIX.

421 1884.

Nov.

CONVENTION BETWEEN TH3 EMPIRE OF GERMANY AND THE INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO. Article

The

I.

Congo undertakes to levy goods imported director in transit in their

International Association of the

no duties on

articles or

possessions, present

and

Niadi-Kwilu, or in

its

future, in the basins of the

Congo and the

possessions situated on the coast of the

This freedom from duties shall especially extend commerce which are transported on the roads eslablished round the cataracts of the Congo.

Atlantic Ocean. to goods

and

articles of

Article

The

subjects of the

II.

German Empire

shall

have the right of

siding or settling in tbe territories of the Association.

They

re-

shall

be treated on the same footing as the subjects of the most favoured nation therein, including the inhabitants of the comitry, in all that concerns the protection of their persons or their goods, the free exercise of their religion, the claiming and defence of their rights,

in matters of the navigation as well as in those

of"

commerce and

industry.

Especially they shall have the right to

buy and

sell,

and

lease

lands and buildings situated on the territories of the Association, to

found houses of business, and to engage therein in commerce and

coasting trade under the

German

flag.

Article III.

The

Association undertakes never to accord the least advantage

to the subjects of another nation, unless such

ately extended to

German

advantage

is

immedi-

subjects.

Article IV. In case of the present or future cession of the territory of the Association or of a part of that territory, the obligations contracttd

by the Association towards the Empire

of

8.

Brussels.

Germany

shall be trans-

APPENDIX.

422 1884. ^•5^'- 8.

Bfuesels.

ferred to the acquirer.

These obligations and rights granted by Germany and to its Kubjects

the Association to the Empire of gj^^i}

remain in foroe after every cession to each new acquirer. Article V.

The Empire

—a

of

Germany

recognises the flag of the Association

blue flag with a goklen star in the centre

— as

that of a

friendly state.

Article VI.

The Empire

of

Germany

is

ready on

its

frontiers of the territory of the Association,

about to be founded, as indicated on the

part to recognise the

and of the new

map annexed

state

hereto.

Article VII.

This Convention shall be ratified, and the ratifications shall be exchanged with the least possible delay. This Convention shall come into force immediately after the exchange of the ratifications. Done at Brussels, the 8th of November, 1884. (Signed)

Count de Brandenbourg. Strauch.

DECLAEATIONS exchanged between the g0veen31est of her britannic majesty and the international association of the congo.

Declaration of the Association.

The International Association of the Congo, founded by His Majesty the King of the Belgians with the object of encouraging tlie civilization and commerce of Africa and also with humanitarian and philanthroi)ic intentions, declares by these presents as follows

:

That by treaties concluded with the legitimate sovereigns whose States are situated in tlie basins of the Congo and the Niadi-Kwilu, and in the territories bordering on the Atlantic, there has been ceded to it certain territories for the use and 1.

profit of

Free States established or to bo establised in the said

basins and adjacent territories.

APPENDIX, 2.

That in virtue of these

423

treaties, the Association is invested

with the administration of the interests of tiie said Free States. 3. That the Association has adopted as its flag and that of the Free States a blue flag with a golden star in the centre. 4. That witli the object of allowing commerce to make its way into Equatorial Africa, the Association and the said Free States have resolved to levy no duty on articles of commerce or merchandize imported direct into their territories, or introduced by the roads which have been constructed round the cataracts of the Congo. 5.

That the Association and the

foreigners settled in

said Free States guarantee to

their territories the free exercise

of their

religion, the rights of navigation, trade,

the right to buy,

sell,

and

lease land,

and industry, as vv^ell as buildings, mines and forests

on condition of obedience to the laws. 6.

their

Done

Thnt the Association and the said Free States shall do all in power to put an end to the slave trade and suppress slavery. at Berlin, the IGth of

December, 1884. (Signed) In

the

Straucii.

name of

the Asscciation.

Declaration of thk Government of Her Britannic Majestv.

The Government of Her Britannic Majesty declares that it sympathy and approbation to the humanitarian and l>hilanthropic objects of the Association and, by these presents, reaccords its

cognises the flag of the Association and the Free States under administration as the flag of a friendly Government.

(Signed) In

the

Edward

its

Mai.et.

name of Her Majesty

s

Government.

CONVENTION between the government of her BRITANNIC MAJESTY AND THE international ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO. Seeing that the Government of Her Britannic Majesty has recogtlie Internafonal Association of the Congo and the Free States under its administration as the flag of a friendly

nised the flag of

Government

1884 •'^'*^"'

^'

^'^"^*^^^'

APPENDIX.

424 1884. Dec. 16. Berlin.

Being of opinion that j-iglits

it is

advisable to regulate and define the

of British subjects in the territories of the said Free States,

and to provide for such matters concerning the exercise of civil and criminal jurisdiction as shall be indicated hereunder until the Association shall have provided in a sufficient manner for the adiuinistration of justice with regard to foieigners, It has

been agreed

:

Article

I.

The International Association of the Congo undertakes to levyno duties of importation or transit on articles of commerce or m.erchandise imported by British sul)jects into the said territories, or into the territories which hereafter may be placed under its Government. This fj-eedom from duty shall extend to merchandise and articles of commerce which shall be transported by the roads and canals established or to be established round the cataracts of the Congo.

Article

II.

British subjects shall at all times have the right to reside and

which are or

under the government same protection as subjects or citizens of the most favoured nation in all matters which affect their persons and their goods, the free exercise of their religion, and the rights of navigation, commerce, and industry. Espesettle in the territories

of the Association.

They

shall be

shall enjoy the

cially tliey shall

have the right to buy, sell, lease, and let lands, and forests within the said territories to found houses of business, and to engage in commerce and coasting trade therein under the British flag;. buildings, mines,

;

Article

III.

The Association undertakes trifling, to

to accord no advantage, however the subjects of another nation, unless such advantage is

immediately extended to British subjects.

Article IV. Tier Majesty the Queen of Great Britiin and Ireland may nominate consuls or other consular agents in the ports or stations on the said territories, and the Association undertakes to protect

them

therein.

APPENDIX.

425

Article V.

1884. Dec. 16.

Every British consul or consular agent who shall have been duly authorised by the Government of Her Britannic Majesty, shall have power to establish a consular tribunal for the district assigned to him, and shall exercise sole and exclusive jurisdiction, civil as well as criminal, with regard to the persons and property of

Berlin,

British subject:^ within the said district, in accordance with the

British laws.

Article YI.

Nothing contained in the preceding

article shall

any

absolve

British subject from the obligation of observing the laws of the said Free States applicable to foreigners, but all infraction of those

laws on the part of a British subject shall be referred to the British consular tribunal.

Article

VI I.

If the inhabitants of the said territories

the Government

e»f

which are subject

to

the Association do any injury to the person or

property of a British subject, they shall be arrested and punished

by the

authorities of the Association conformably to the laws of

the said Free States.

Justice shall be administered equitably

and

impartially on both sides.

Article VIII.

A

British subject having grounds of complaint against an in-

liabitant of the said territories, subject to the

government of the and there detail

Association, shall apply to the British Consulate his grievance >.

The Consul plaint

is

shall

make an inquiry

to ascertain that the

well founded, and will do his utmost to arrange

it

comami-

In the same way, if any inhabitant of the same territories shall have cause of complaint against a British subject, the British counsel shall hear his complaint and do his utmost to arrange the If differences arise of such nature that the matter amicably. British Consul cannot arrange them amicably, he shall have recably.

course to the authorities of the Association to examine into the

matter and end

it

equitably.

APPENDIX.

426

Article IX.

1884. Dec. 16. Berlin.

I^

an inhabitant of the

said territories subject to the govern-

ment of the Association should

fail to

pay any debt contracted

with a British subject, the authorities of the Association shall do all in their power to bring him to justice and procure the recovery of the said debt and if a British subject should fail in the pay;

any debt contracted witli one of the inhabitants, the British authorities shall in the same way do their utmost to bring him to Ko British Consul justice and procure the recovery of the debt. and no authority of the Association shall be held responsible for a debt contracted by a British subject, nor by any inhabitant of the said territoiies who is subject to the government of the Asso-

ment

of

ciati

Article X. In case of the cession of an}' territory which

now

or in the future

be under the government of the Association, the obligations contracted by the Association in the present Convention shall apply shall

to the grantee.

The engagements and

rights accorded to British

subjects shall remain in force after every cession with regard to

new occupant of every part of tlie paid territorj'. This Convention shall be ratified, and the ratifications shall be exchanged with as little delay as possible. This Convention shall

every

come into force immediately after the exchange of the ratifications. Done at Berlin, the IGth of December, eighteen hundred and eighty-four.

(Signed)

Edward Malet. Straucu.

CONVENTION BETWEE.N THE NETHERLANDS AND THE INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO.

Article

The

I.

International Association of the

Congo undertakes

to levy

no duties of importation, or transit on mercliandise, or articles of commerce, imported by Dutch subjects within the present or future possessions of the Association.

The freedom from

duties shuU ex-

APPENDIX.

427

tend to merchandise and articles of commerce transported on the })e established round the cataracts

roads or canals which are or shall

1884. J^'"'

Brussels.

of the Congo.

Article

Dutch

subjects shall at all times have the right to reside or settle

in the teiritories

They

II.

which are or

shall be subject to the Association.

shall enjoy the protection accorded to subjects or citizens of

the most favoured nation in all matters concerning their peisons,

and the rights of commerce and industry they shall especially have the buy and sell, let and lease land, mines, forests, and build-

their property, the free exercise of their religion,

navigation, right to

;

ings in the said territories; to found therein houses of bunness,

and carry on commerce and coasting trade under the Dutch

flag.

Article III.

The Association undertakes fo the subjects ui

to grant

no advantage whatsoever

another nation, unless such advantages are im-

mediately extended to Dutch subjects.

Article IV.

His Majesty the King of the Netherlands has the right to nominate Consuls or Consular Agents in the ports or stations of the said territories,

and

the* Association

undertakes to protect them.

Article

V

Until the administration of justice shall have been organized in the Free States of the Congo, and until that organization shall have been notified by the Association, every Dutch Consul or Consular Agent, who has been duly authorized by the Government of

His Majesty the King of the Netherlands,

may

tribunal for the (xtent of the district assigned

establish a Consular to

him, and in that

case will exorcise sole and exclusive jurisdiction, civil as well as with regard to the persons and property of Dutch sub-

ciiniinal,

jects

within the ^aid

district,

conformably to the laws of the

Netherlands.

Article YI.

Nothing contained in the foregoing article shall absolve any Dutch subject from the obligation of observing the laws of the

APPENDIX.

428 188+. Dec. 2(. Brussels,

Free States applicable to foreigners, but all infractions thereof on q£ ^ Dutch subject sball be referred to a Dutch Consular

^}^Q pgj,|.

tribunal.

Article VII. If the inhabitants of the said countries,

who

are subjects of the

government of the As.-oeiation, do any injury to the person or property of a Dutch subject, they shall be arrested and punished by the authorities of the Association, conformably to the laws of the Justice shall be administered equitably and said Free States. imparti

illy

on both sides.

Article VIII.

A

Dutch subject having grounds

of complaint against

an

in-

habitant of the said territories subject to the government of the

Dutch Consul ite, and tbere detail his The Consul shall proceed to enquiie if the same be wellfounded, and do all in h's power to arrange the matter amicabl}-. In the same way, if any inhabitant of the said territories has any complaint concerning a Dutch subject, the Dutch Consul shall hear

Association shall apply to the grievance.

the complaint, and do his utmost to arrange the difficulty amicably. If differences arise of such a nature that the Consul cannot arrange

them amicably, he

shall then

the Association, for

them

to

have recourse to the authorities of examine into the matter and end it

equitably.

Article IX. If an inhabitant of the said territories subject to the government of the Association shall fail in the

payment of a debt contracted

with a Dutch subject, the authorities of the Association shall do all in their power to bring him to justice, and procure the recovery of the debt, and if a Dutch subject shall fail in the payment of a debt contracted with one of the inhabitants, the Dutch authorities shall

do

all

in their

power

to

bring him to justice, and procure the

recovery of the debt.

No Dutch Consul nor any authority

of the Association shall be

held responsible for the payment of a debt contracted by an inhabitant of any of the territories subject to the government of the Association or by

any Dutch

subject.

Article X.

In the event of the cession of the territory now under the government of the Association, or which shall be so at any future

429

APPENDIX.

any part of the said territory, all the ohligations conby the Assocliition in the present Convention shall be binding on the grantee. These arr-mgements and rights accorded to Dutch subjects shall remain in force after the cession with legard to any new occupant of no matter what part of the said

time, or of tracted

territory.

Article XI.

The power

Association and the Free States engage to do all in their to

put an end to the slave-trade and suppress slavery.

Article XII.

The Kingdom

of

tlie

Netherlands, according

its

sympathy

to the

humanitarian and civilising object of the Association, recognizes the flag of the Association and the Free States placed under its administration a blue flag with a golden star in the centre — as the flag of a friendly Government.



Article XIII.

This Convention bhall be ratified, and the ratifications shall be exchanged with as little delay as possible. It shall come into force immediately after the exchange of the ratifications. In witness whereof the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed it, and to it have affi.xed the seal of their coat of arms. Done at Brussels, the twenty-seventh day of the month of December, of the year one thousand eight hundred and eighty-four. (Signed)

L. Gericke.

Strauch.

CONVENTION BETWEEN THE GOVERNMENT OF THE FRENCH REPUBLIC AND THE INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO. Article

The

I.

International Association of the Congo declares that.it

extends to France the advantages States of America, to the Italy, to

it

has conceded to the United

Empire of Germany,

to England, to Austro-Hungary, to the Netherlands, and to Spain, in

1884 Dec. 27. Brussels.

APPENDIX.

430 1885. Paris^'

virtue of the Convention

it

has concluded with the several Powers 22nd of April, the 8th of November,

°^ *^® respective dates of the

the 16th, 19th, 24th, and 29th of December, 1884, and the 7th of January, 1885, and of which the texts are annexed to the present

Convention.

Article

II.

Association undertakes, in addition, to accord no advantages of any nature whatsoever to the subjects of another nation without

The

immediately extending those advantages to French

citizens.

Article III.

The Government

of the French Eepublic and the Association

adopt for the frontiers between their possessions The Eiver Chiloango from the ocean to its most northerly :

source

The

crest of the water-parting of the

as far as the meridian of

A

line to

Niadi-Kwilu and the Congo

Manyanga

be determined, and which, following as much as ground terminates between the

possible, a natural division of the

station of

Manyanga and the

cataract of

Ntombo Mataka

situated on the navigable portion of the river

in a point

;

The Congo to Stanley Pool The centre line of Stanley Pool The Congo to a point to be determined up

the stream of the

Eiver Licona-Kkiindja

A

line to

be determined from that point to the 17th degree of

longitude east from Greenwich, following as line of the water-parting of the

much

as possible the

basin of the Licona-Nkundja,

which forms part of the French possessions

The 17th degree

of lons-itude east from Greenwich.

Article IV.

A

Commission composed of representatives of the contracting

number on both sides, shall be entrusted with executing on the spot the laying out of the frontier conformably to the preceding stiiiulations. In case of dispute the matter shall parties, equal in

be referred to delegates nominated by the International Commission of the Congo.

APPENDIX.

431

Article V.

1884. Feb. 5.

tJnder the reservation of the arrangements about to take place between the International Association of the Congo and Portugal

Paris,

for the territories situated to the

south of the Chiloango, the Gois disposed to recognise the

vernment of the French Republic

neutrality of the possessions of the International Association within

the frontiers shown on the annexed map, subject to the discussion and regulation of the conditions of that neutrality in accord with the other Powers represented at the Berlin Conference.

Article VI.

The Government

of the French Republic recognises the flag of

the International Association of the

Congo

—a

blue flag with a

golden star in the centre— as the flag of a friendly Government.

In witness whereof the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed and to it affixed their seals. Done at Paris, the 5th of February, 1885.

the present Convention,

(Signed)

Jules Ferry.

(L.S.)

OoMTE Paul de Borchgrave d'Altena

(L.S.)

CONVENTION between PORTUGAL AND THE INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATIOX OF THE CONGO.

Article

The

I.

International Association of the

extends to Portugal the advantages

it

Congo declares that

it

has conceded to the United

Empire of Germany, to England, to Italy, Austro-Hungary, to the Netherlands, to Spain, to France and to the United Kingdoms of Sweden and Norway, in virtue of the Conventions it has concluded with these several Powers of the respective dates of the 22nd of April, the 8th of November, the 16th, 19lh, 24th, and 2t)th of December, 1884, tJie 7th of January, the 5th and 10th of February, 1885, and of which the Association States of America, to the

to

un lertakes to remit authentic Most Faithful Majesty.

copies to the

Government of His

APPENDIX.

432

.Article IT.

1885, Feb, 14 Beiiiu.

The

International Association of the Congo undertakes in addino advantages of any kind whatsoever to the sub-

tion to accord jects

immediately extending thoee His Most Faithful Majesty

another nation wifhout

of

advantages

to the subjects of

Article III. International Association of the Congo and His Most FaithMajesty the King of Portugal and the Algarves adopt for frontiers between their possessions in Western Africa the follow-

The

ful

ing

:—

To Ihe north of the Eiver Congo (Zaire) the right bank of the mouth of the river which enters the Atlantic Ocean to the south of the Bay of Cabinda, close to Punta Vermelha, at Cabo-Lombo The parallel of this last point prolonged up to its intersection •with

the meridian of the junction of the Culacalla with the

LucuUa The meridian thus determined

to its meeting with the Eiver

Luculla;

The

course of the Luculla to

its

junction with the Chiloango

(Luango Luce)

The

course of the Congo (Zaire) from

its

mouth

to its junction

with the small river of Uango-Uango The meiidian which passes through the mouth of the small Eiver Uango-Uango between the Dutch factory and the Portuguese factory, so as to leave the latter in Portuguese territory up to the meeting of the meridian with the parallel of Nokk The parallel of Nokk to its intersection with the Eiver Kuango

(Cuango)

From

this point

southwards the course of the Kuango (Cuango).

Article IV.

A

Commission composed of representatives of the contracting number on both sides shall be intrusted wnth the execution on the spot of the laying out of the frontier conformably to ihe foregoing stipulations. In case of dispute the matter shall be referred to delegates nominated by the International Commisparties eqiial in

sion of the Congo.

APPENDIX.

433

Article V.

His Most Faithful Majesty is

tlie

King

1885. Feb. 14.

of Portugal and the Al«^aive8

disposed to recognise the neutrality of

tlie

possessions of the In-

ternational Association of the Congo, subject to the discussion

and

regulation of that neutrality in accord with the other puwers repre-

sented at the Berlin Conference.

Article VI.

His Most Faithful Majesty the

King of Portugal and the Algarves Congo

recognises the flng of the International Association of the

a blue flag with a goldon star in the centre -as the flag of a friendly

Government. Article VII.

The present Convention shall

and the

shall be ratified,

ratifications

be exchanged at Paris within three months, or sooner

if

possible.

In witness whereof the Plenipotentiaries of the two contracting and His Excellency the Baron de Courcel, Ambassador Extraoidinary and Plenipotentiary of France at Berlin, as representing the medial ing Power, have signed the present Convention, and

parties,

thereto affixed their seals.

Done

in triplicate at Berlin, the fourteenth

day of the month of

February, eighteen hundred and eighty-five.

Marquis de Penafiel.

(Signed)

Strauch. Alph de Courcel.

DECLAKATIONS EXCHANGED BETWEEN THE BELGIAN GOVERNMKNT AND THE INTEKNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO.

The International Association

of the

Congo declares by these

presents that in virtue of treaties concluded with the legitimate

sovereigns in the basin of the

Congo and

its

tributaries, it has

been ceded the sovereignty of vast territories with the object of founding a free and independent Stite that Conventions define the ;

frontiers of the territories of the Association as regards those of

Vol. II.— 28

Berlin,

434 1885. Feb. 23,

APPENDIX.

France and Portugal, and tl'.at the frontiers of the Association are *i J snown on the annexed map. 1

Berlin.

That the

.

.

.

said Association has adopted as the flag of the State

administered by

it a blue flag with a star of gold in its centre. That the said Association has resolved to levy no customs duties on

merchandise or products imported into its territories or transported on the roads which have been constructed round the cataracts of the Congo to

make That

;

its it

this resolution has

way

been tsken so as to encourage trade

into Equatorial Africa.

who

assures to foreigners

settle in its territories the

and lease ground and buildings situated thereon, to establish houses of business, and trade under the sole condition It undertakes, in addition, to accord no of obeying the laws. advantage to the citizens of one nation without immediately extending it to the citizens of all other nations, and to do all in its power to put down the slave trade. In vritness whereof the President of the Association acting for it has hereunder affixed his signature and his seal. Berlin, the twenty-third day of the month of February, one thousand eight hundred and eighty-five. right to buy,

sell,

(Signed)

The Belgian Government takes note of the Inteinaticmal Association of the .

Strauch.

declaration of the

Congo, and by the-e presents

recognises the Association within the boundaries stated, and recognises its flag as that of a friendly State.

In witness whereof the undersigned, duly authorized, have affixed and seal. Berlin, the twenty-third day'' of the month of February, one

their signature

thousand eight hundred and eighty-five. Cte, Aug. van der Straten Baron Lambermont.

(Signed)

PROTOCOL,

Poxtiioz,

No. 10.

Sitting of the 2Gth of February, 1885.

Present

For Germany Prince Bismarck M. Buscn M. de Kusserow. For Austro-ITungary Count, Szk;ciii^:nyi. For Belgium Count Van der Straten Ponthoz; Baron Lamuku;

:

:

:

MONT,

;

APPENDIX. For Deiiiiiark M. de Vind. For Spain Count de Benomar. For the United iStates of America

435 1885.

:

^''^- '^^

:

PIenky

S.

:

Mr. John A. Kasson

;

Mr.

Sanford.

For France Baron de Courcel. For Great Britain Sir Edward Malet. For Italy Count de Launay. For the Netherlands The Johkheer van der Hoeven. For Porttigal Mavc^uis de Penafiel M. de Serpa Pi.mentel. ForEnssia: Count Kapnist. For Sweden and Norway General Baron Bildt. For Turkey Said Pasha. The sitting opened at half-past two o'clock, under the Presidency of His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck. The President expressed his regret at having been prevented by the state of his health and. the pressure of business from sharing in the whole of the labours of the High Assembly which he, however, had followed with much interest. His Serene Highness then delivered the following address " Gentlemen, Our Conference after long and laborious deliberations, has reached the end of its work, and I am glad to say that thanks to your efforts and to that spirit of conciliation which has presided over our proceedings, a complete accord has been cmne to on every point of the programme submitted to us. " The resolutions which vve ai'c about to sanction formall}' secure :

:

:

:

;

;

:

:

:



to the trade of all nations

Continent.

fi'ce

access to the interior of the African

The guarantees by which

the freedom of trade will be

assured in the Congo basin, and the whole of the arrangements

embodied in the rules

for the navigation of the

Congo and the

Niger, are of such a nature as to afford the commerce and industry

of

all

and

nations the most favourable conditions for their development

security.

" In another series of regulations you

have shown your solicitude moral and material welfare of the native po])ulati.)n, and may hope that those principles adopted in a spirit of wise

for the

we

moderation will bear

with the "

The

fruit,

and help to familiarise those i^opulations

benefits of civilisation.

particular conditions under

regions you have just opened

up

to

which are placed

tlie

vast

commercial enterprise have

seemed to require special guarantees for the preservation of peace and public order. In fact, the scourge of war would become particularly disastrous if the natives were led to take sides in the

•^'''^'°-

APPENDIX.

436 1885. Feb. 26, ^^ '"

disputes between

Powers.

tlie civilised

Justly apprehensive of the

(Jauggrg that snch an event might. have for the interests of com-

and civilisation, you have sought for the means of withdrawing a great part of the African Continent from the vicissitudes raerce

of general politics, in confining therein the rivalry of nations to peaceful emulation in trade and industry.

"In the same manner you have endeavoured to avoid all misunderstanding and dispute to which fresh annexations on the African The declaration of the formalities required coast might give rise. before such annexations can be conssidered eifective introduces a rule into public law, which in its turn will remove many a

new

cause of dissent and conflict from our international relations. " The spirit of mutual good understanding which has distin-

guished your deliberations has also presided over the negotiations that have been carried on outside the Conference, with a view to arrano-e the difficult question of delimitation between the parties exercising sovereign rights in the p(jsition are

Congo

basin,

and which by their work we are

destined to be the chief guardians of the

about to sanction. " I cannot touch on this subject without bearing testimony to the noble efforts of His Majesty the King of the Belgians, the founder of a work which all

now has gained

the Powers, and which as

it

grows

to the cause of humanity. " Gentlemen, I am requested

the recognition of almost

will render valuable service

by His Majesty the Emperor and

my

august Master, to convey to you his warmest thanks for each of you has taken in the felicitous accomplishment of part the King,

the

work of the Conference.

duty in gratefully acknowledging what the Conits members who undertook the hard work of the Commission, notably to the Baron de Courcel and to Baron I have also to thank the delegates for the valuable Lambermont. " I fulfil a final

ference owes to those of

assistance they

have rendered

us,

and I include in

of thanks the secretaries of the Conference,

this expression

who have

facilitated

our deliberations by the accuracy of their work. " Like the other labours of man, the work of this Conference may be improved upon and perfected, but it will, I hope, mark an

advance in the development of international relations, and foi'm a of union between the nations of the civilised world." Count de Launay then spoke as follows :— " Gentlemen, we are all of us very pleased to see His Serene

new bond

Highness Prince Bismarck once more amongst

us.

APPENDIX.

We

"

have the honour to thank him

437 for his speech,

which bore

the maik of such perfect courtesy, and for his flattering opinion of the efforts which have resulted in onr general agreement. "

As you have

just heard, he has been prevented,

much

against

his inclination, from presiding in person at all our s^ittings, but

mighty mind has hovered over this assembly.

his

obliged to delegate his functions,

If he has been he knew beforehand that he In fact, Count Hatzfeldt and

was putting them in good hands. Under Secretary of State, M. Busch, huve successively

carried out

and a spirit of conWe owe ciliation that we are all of ns pleased to acknowledge. them a debt of gratitude. Both of them have thoroughh' entered into the princij^les that have been brought before us with equal precision and elevation of view ever since the begirning of the their instructions

with an intelligence, a

tact,

Conference.



"Whatever may be reserved for our work in the future it remains subject to the vicissitudes of all things human we can at present at least bear witness that we have neglected nothing that



was

at all possible to

open up into the interior of the African

Continent a broad road for the moral and mateiial progress of its native races and for the development of the general welfare of

commerce and navigation.

"We

have,

simultaneously, served the cause of religion, of

peace, of humanity,

and enlarged the domain of public international

law. "

Such was the object we had in view.

attaining

it,

a large part of the merit

we have su-'ceeded in due to our illustrious

If is

Piesident, the promoter of the meeting of this Conference, the

author of the programme which formed the basis of our deliberations.

" I this

am

thus secure of the unanimous assent of the members of

High Assembly

in expressing to His Serene Highness Prince for his having,

whether

present or absent, given our labours their best direction. " As we are about to part, I think, gentlemen, that I

am your

Bismarck our

cordial

acknowledgment

faithful interpreter in offering the

homage of our

respectful grati-

have received from His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia, and also from his tude for the kindly welcome

vve

august family."

At Count de Launay's suggestion, the members of the High Assembly rise from their seats to mark their hearty assent to what

1885. •

Berlin.

APPENDIX.

438 has "been said

Italian representative

by the

with regard to His

Majesty the Emperor. Prince Bismarck thanks Count de Launay for his appreciative He expresses a wi&h that the Plenipotentiaries and himself will in the course of their political life have frequent

remarks.

opportunities of meeting in that unanimously friendly spirit which has distinguished the Berlin Conference. His Serene Highness bears witness to the satisfaction he has experienced at the excellent

'

which the Conference has given rise. president consults the high assembly as to whether it will be convenient before proceeding to the signature of the general The general act already adopted act to have the document read. relations to

The

in its entirety to the

by the Conference has been printed and distributed

Plenipotentiaries for their mature

consideration.

The

high assembly may perhaps under the circumstances think it well Should that be to omit the formality of the customary reading. the general feeling, it will be in accord with the opinion of the president.

Said Pasha considers the reading superfluous. The high assembly unaniuiously agrees to offered

the

suggestion

by Prince Bismarck.

The president formally announces that the high assembly having given the general act its definitive sanction, withuut wishing to hear it lead over for the last lime, it will perha^DS immediately pass to the signature of the documents. However, before inviting the Plenipotentiaries to proceed to Bismarck, in order to simplify the order of

this formality. Prince

communication wbich ought strictly to follow the signing of the treaty, and which is to this effect " Peferring to Article XXXVII. of the Act just accepted by you I have the honour to make a communication to you which has just reached me. This is the adoption by the International Association business, desires to bring before the Conference a

:

of the

Congo of the

resolutions of the Conference.

I will take

the liberty of reading tbis document, as well as a letter from Colonel Strauch, the President of the Association."

which are as follows 1. Act of Adhesion of the International Association of the Congo the General Act of the Berlin Conference, of date the 26th of

The President reads to

these documents,

:

February, 1885. "

The International Association

of the Congo, in virtue of Article

APPENDIX.

XXXVII.

439

of the General Act of the Berlin Conference declares

these presents that

it

by

adheres to the provisions of the said General

In witness whereof the President of the International AssociaCongo has signed the present declaration and thereto

tion of the

affixed his seal.

"

Done

at Berlin the twenty-sixth day of the

month

of February,

one thousand eight hundred and eighty-five. " Colonel Strauch."

(L. S.)

Letter from Colonel Strauch to his Serene Highness Prince

2.

Bismarck

:

" Prince,

King

the

— In virtue of the

powers given

to

me by His

Majesty

of the Belgians, acting as founder of the International

Association of the Ccngo, powers sent herewith, and in conformity

with Article XXXVII. of the General Act of the Berlin Conference, I have the honour to forward to the Governraent of the German Empire the Act by which the International Association of the Congo adheres to the said General Act. " I trust that your Serene Highness will in accordance with the stipulation which forms paragraph two of the same Article notify this adhesion to the States that have signed the General Act or

who will adhere to it. The International

Association of the Couq-o will reyard the

favourable consideration given to

its

request as another proof of

the friendliness of the Powers towards a origin,

its

conditions of existence, and

its

work destined by

its

object to aid in the

accomplishment of the generous ideas of the Conference. " I am, with profound respect, "

Your Serene Highness's most humble and most obedient servant. Colonel Strauch.

"

The President of the "Berlin,

3.

2Qtli

International Association of the Congo."

Fem-uary, 1885."

Powers conferred on Colonel Strauch.

" AVe, Leopold II.,

King of the Belgians, acting tlie Congo, give by

the International Association of full

^*'-

^^^^•^•

Act. "

i885. ^^^-

as

Founder of

these presents

powers to M. Strauch, President of that Association, to sign

the Act of accession to the general treaty adopted by the Berlin Conference.

"Leopold. " Brussels, 15th February, 1885."

(L. S.)

APPENDIX.

440 1885. Feb. 26. ,.

His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck then speaks as follows

^ ^ " Gentlemen,

J.



:

Assembly by the International acknowledging its adhesion to

I believe I express the feeling of the

in greeting with satisfaction the stej) taken

Association of the Congo, and in

our resolutions.

new Congo State is work we have in

Tlie

destined to be one of the

view, and I hope it will have a prosperous development, and that the noble aspirations of chief protectors of the

its illustrious

At the

may

founder

be

fulfilled."

President's invitation, the Pleuipotentaries then proceed

to the signature of the final Act.

The President announces that the sitting is at an end, and the High Assembly separates at half-past Four o'clock, (Signed) szech^nyi.

Van

der

Straten Ponthoz. Bn.

van der hoeven. Marquis de Penafiel. a. de Serpa Pimentel. f. p.

Augte.

Cte,

L ambermont.

Cte. P. Kapnist.

E. YiND.

GiLLIS BiLDT.

COMTE DE BeNOMAR. John A. Easson.

SaID.

Alph. de Courcel.

Busch.

Edward

V. Kusserow.

V. Bismarck.

B. Malet.

Launay. Certified as agreeing

with

original,

Raindre.

CoMTE W. Bismarck. Schmidt.

THE GENERAL ACT OF THE BERLIN CONFERENCE. In

the

Name

of

Ahniijliiij

God.

His Majesty the Emperor of Germanj', King of Prussia. His Majesty the Emperor of Austria, King of Bohemia, &c., and King Apostolic of Hunjiarj', His ]\Iajesty the King of the Belgians, His Majesty the King of Denmark, His Majesty the King of Spain, the President of the United States of America, the President of tlie Frencli Republic,

Her Majesty the Queen

of the United

Kingdom

APPENDIX.

441

of Great Britain and Ireland, Empress of India, His Majesty the

1885.

King of Italy, His Majesty the King of the Netherlands, Grand Duke of Luxemburg, His Majesty the King of Portugal and the

^

Algarves, &c., &c., Arc, His Mnjesty the Czar of

all

the linssias,

His INIajesty the King of Sweden and Norway, &o., &c., and His Majesty the Sultan of the Turks. Desirous of settling. in a spirit of mutual goodwill the most favourable conditions for the development of commerce and civilisation in certain districts in Africa, and ensuring to the natives the advantages of the free navigation of the two chief African desirous, moreover, rivers that flow into the Atlantic Ocean of preventing misunderstandings and disputes which may in the future arise as new territories are annexed on the African coast, and at the same time anxious to promote the moral and material welfare of the native races, have lesolved at the invita;

them by the Imperial Government of Germany, Government of the French Republic to meet pui'poses in a Conference at Berlin, and have nominated

tion addressed to

in accord with the for these

as Their Plenipotentiaries the following

:

His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia Lo Sieur Oriio, Pi ince Bismarck, His President of the Council Ministers of Prussia, Chancellor of the Empire; Paul, Count Hatzfelut, His Minister of State and Secretary

of

of

Department of Foreign Affairs Le Sieur Auguste Busch, His Privy Councillor of Legation, and Under-Secretary of Stite for the department of Foreign Affairs and Le Sieur Henri de Kusserow, His Privy Councillor of Legation of the Department of Foreign Affairs. His Majesty the Emperor of Austria, King of Bohemia, &c., and State for the

;

King Apostolic of Hungary Le Sieur Emeric, Count Szechenyi de Sarvari Felso-Yidek, Chamberlain and Privy Councillor, His Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia. His Majesty the King of the Belgians Le Sieur Gabriel Auguste, Count Van der Straten Ponthoz, His Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to His Majestj' the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia and ;

;

;

Le Sienr Auguste, Baron Lamhermont, Minister of Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary.

State,

His Envoy

'

Berlin.

APPENDIX.

442 1885. Feb. 26. ^' "^"

His Majesty the King of Dexjiark Yjq Sieur Emil de Vind, Chamberlain, His Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of ;

Germany, King of Prussia. His Majesty the King of Spain Don Francisco Merry y Colom, Count de Benomar. His Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to His JMajesty ;

Empevor of Germany, King of Prussia. The President of the United States of America Le Sieur John A. Kasson, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister ;

Plenipotentiary of the United States of North America, to His

Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia Le Sieur Henry S. Sanford, Ex-Minister. The President of the French Eepublic

;

and

;

Le Sieur Alphonse, Baron de Courcel, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of France, to His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia. Her Majesty the Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain AUD Ireland, Empress of India Sir

;

Edward Baldwin Malet, Her Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia.

His Majesty the King of Italy; Le Sieur Edouard, Count de Launay, His Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of

Germany, King

of Piussia.

His Majesty the King of the Netherlands, Grand Duke of Luxemburg, &c. Le Sieur Frederic Philippe, Jonkheer Van der Hoeven, His Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to His ;

Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia. His Majesty the King of Portugal and the Algarves, &c. Le Sieur du Serra Gomes, Marquis de Penafiel, Peer of the Eealm, His Envoy Extraordinary and IMinister Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prus>ia and Le Sieur Antoine de Serpa Pimentel, Councillor of State and Peer ;

;

of the Realm. His Majesty the Czar of all the Russias Le Sieur Pierre, Count Kapnis r, Pi ivy Councillor, His Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiaiy to His Majesty the ;

King

of the Netherlands.

His Majesty the King of Sweden and Norway, &c.

;

APPENDIX. Le Sieur

Gillis,

443

Baron Bildt, Lieutenaut General, His Envoy Ex-

traordinary and Minister Plenipotentiaiy to His Majesty the

Emperor of Germany, King His Majestv the Sultan of the Turks Mehemed Said, Pasha, Vizier and High Dignitary, His Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia. Who, furnished with full powers, which have been found to be of Prussia. ;

good and proper form, have successively discussed and adopted. A declaration relative to the freedom of trade in the basin of the Congo, its mouths, and circumjacent districts, with certain

in

1.

arrangements connected therewith. 2. A declaration concerning the slave-trade, and the operations on land or sea, which supply the slaves for the trade. 3.

A

declaration relative to the neutrality of the territories com-

prised in the said basin of the Congo. 4.

An

act as to the navigation of the Congo,

which takes into

consideration the local circumst mces affecting the river

;

its afflu-

and the waters that are similar to them, the general principles set forth in Articles lOS to 116 of the final Act of the Congress of Vienna, and intended to regulate between the signatory powers to

ents,

that act, the free navigation of navigable watercourses that separate or traverse several States

;

principles that have once been generally

applied to the rivers of Europe and America, and notably to the Danube with the modifications foreseen by the Treaties of Paris of 1856, of Berlin of 1878, of 5.

Aw

act

f(jr

London of 1871 and 1883.

the navigation of the Niger, which also takes into

consideration the local circumstances affecting this river and its affluents,

on the same principles

set forth in Articles

108 to 116 of

the final Act of the Congress of Vienna. 6.

A

declaration introducing into international relations uniform

rules with regard to annexations

which may take place in the

future on the African continent

And having

decided that these various documents could be usecombined in a single deed, have collected them in a general act composed of the following ai tides. fully

CHAPTEE

I.

Declaration relative to the freedom of commeice in the basin of

the Congo,

its

mouths, and circumjacent

arrano-ements connected therewith.

districts,

with certain

^1885 Feb. 26. Berlin.

APPENDIX.

444

Article

The

1885. Feb. 26.

3erlin.

2.

I.

trade of all nations shall be entirely free

In

all

:

the territories constituting the basin of the Congo and

The

j^^ affluents.

basin

is

bounded by the

crests of the adjoining

basins, that is to say, the basins of the Kiari, of the

Ogowe, of the

by the line of the eastern lidge of the affluents of Lake Tanganyika towards the east by the crests of the basins of the Zambesi and the Loge towards the south. It consequently embraces all the teriitories drained by the Congo and its affluent-, comprising therein Lake Tanganyika and its eastern trilmtaries. Shari,

and

of

the Nile towards the north

;

2. In the maritime zone extending along the Atlantic Ocean from the parallel of 2° 30' s-outh latitude to the mouth of the Loge. The northern limit will follow the parallel of 2^ 30' from the coast until it reaches the geographical bisin of the Congo, avoiding

the basin of the Ogowe, to which the stipulations of the present

Act do not

appl}'.

The southern

limit will follow the course of the

Loge up

source of that river, and thence strike eastwards to

its

to the

junction

with the geographic il basin of the C aigo. 3. In the zone extending eastwards fr^m the basin of the Congo as limited above herein, to the Indian Ocean, from the fifth degree of north Latitude to the mouth of the Zambesi on the south from ;

Zambesi for five miles up stream to the junction with the Shire, and continue by the line of the ridge dividing the waters which flow towards lake Nyassa "from the tributary waters of the Zambesi, until it rejoins the line of the water-parting between the Zambesi and the Congo.

this point the line of demarcation will follow the

It

is

expressly understood that in extending to this eastern zone

the principle of commercial freedom, the Pov/ers lepresented at the

Conference bind only themselves, and that the principle will apply

some independent and sovereign it. The Powers agree to employ their good offices among the cslablished Governments on the African coast of tlie Indian Ocean, to obtain such consent and in any case to ensure the most favourable conditions to all nations. to territories actually belonging to

state only so far as that state consents to

Articlk All

flags,

II.

without distinction of nationality,

shall

have free

access to all the coast of the territories above enumeiated, to the

APPENDIX. rivers wliicli therein flow to the sea to all the waters of the

and

445 Congo

the lakes, to all the canals that in the

its affluents, includinjj;

may

be cut with the object of uniting the watercourses or in the whole extent of the teriitories described comprised the lakes They can undertake all kinds of transport, and in Article I.

future

engage in maritime and fluvial coas'ing, as well as river navigation, on the same footing as the natives.

Article III.

Goods from every source imported into these territories under any flag whatsoever, either by way of the sea, the rivers, or the land, shall pay no taxes except such as are an equitable compensation for the necessaiy expenses of the trade, and which can meet with equal support from the natives and from foreigners of every nationality.

All differential treatment

is

forbidden both with regard to ships

and goods. Article IV.

Goods imported

into these territories will remain free

of all

charges for entry and tiansit.

The powers reserve to themselves, imtil the end of a period of twenty years, the right of deciding if freedom of entry shall be maintained or not. Article V.

Every Power which exercises or in the

territories

will exercise sovereign rights

above-mentioned, cannot therein concede any

monopoly or privilege of any

sort in

commercial matters.

Foreigners shall therein indiscriminately enjoy the same treat-

ment and rights as the natives in the protection of their persons and goods, in the acquisition and transmission of their property, moveable and immovable, and in the exercise of their professions.

Article YI. Provisions Belative to the Protection of the Natives, to Missionaries

and

Travellers,

and

to

Bellgious Liberty.

All the Powers exercising sovereign rights, or having influence in the said territories, undertake to

watch over the preservation of

the native races, and the amelioration of the moral and material

1885.

APPENDIX.

446 1885. 26

t'eb.

Berlin

conditions of their existence, and to co-operate in the suppression of slavery, and above all of the slave trade

they will protect and

;

encourage, without distinction of nationality or creed,

all institu-

tions and enterprises, religious, scientific, or charitable, established

and organised for these objects or tending to educate the natives, and lead them to understand and appreciate the advantages of civilisation.

Christian missionaries, escorts

and

collections,

men

of science,

and their

explorers,

be equally the object of

to

sj^ecial

pro-

tection.

Liberty of conscience and religious

guaranteed

to

foreigners.

The

the natives

as

tolertition

well as to the

are

expressly

inhabitants and

and public exercise of every creed, the right and to organise missions belonging to be subject to no restriction or impediment what-

free

to erect religions buildings

every creed, shall soever.

Article VII. Postal Arrangements.

The Convention

of the Postal Union revised at Paris on the 1st

of June, 1878, shall apply to the said basin of tbe Congo.

The

PoAvers which there

exercise or will

exercise

rights of

sovereignty or protectorate, undertake, as soon as circumstances permit, to introduce the necessary measures to give etlect to the

above resolution. Article VIII. Hiijht of Surveillance conferred on the International Commission for the

Navigation of the Congo.

In all parts of the territory embraced in the present Declaration, where no Power shall exercise the rights of sovereignty or protectorate, the International Commission for the navigation of the Congo, constituted

in

accordance with Article XVII., shall bo

entrusted with the surveillance of the application of the principles declared and establisheil in this Declaration.

In

all cases of difficulties arising relative to

the ajiplication of

the j>rinciplcs cstablislicd by the present Declaration, the (Jovornnients interested shall agree to appeal to

International Commission, leaving to

which have given

it

tlie

good

ofllices

of the

the examination of the facte

rise to the difficulties.

APPENDIX.

CHAPTER

4A1

1885. Feb. 2d

II.

DECLARATION CONCERNING THE SLAVE TRADE.

Berlin.

Article IX.

In conformity with the principles of the right of nations as recognised by the signatory Powers, the slave trade being forbidden, and operations which on hind or sea snpply shives for the trade being equally held to be forbidden, the Powers which exercise or will exercise lights of sovereignty or influence in the territories

forming the basin of the Congo declare that these territories shall serve neither for tlie place of sale nor the way of trani-it for the traffic in slaves of

any race whatsoeA'er. Each of the Powers underit can to put an end to the trade

takes to employ every means that

and

to

punish those who engage in

it.

CHAPTER

III.

DECLAR.\TI0N RELATIVE TO THE NEUTRALITY OF THE TERRITORIES

COMPRISED IN THE SAID BASIN OF THE CONGO.

Article X.

In order to give a new guarantee of security for commerce and industry, and to encourage by the maintenance of peace the development of civilisation in the countries mentioned in Article I.

and placed under the system of free trade, the High Parties signathe present Act, and those who will accept the same, hereby

tory- to

undertake to respect the neutrality of the territories, or parts of the territories dependent on the said countries, comprising therein the territorial waters, for so long as the Powers which exercise, or will exercise, the rights of soveieignty or protectorate over the teriitories, avail

and

fiilfil

themselves of the right to proclaim them neutral

the duties that neutrality implies.

Article XI. In cases where a Power exercising rights of sovereignty or protectorate in the countries

mentioned in Article

I.

and

i)laced

under

the system of free trade shall be involved in war, the High Parties signatory to the present Act and those liereby engage to use their

good

who

offices so

v\ill

accept the same

that the teriitories be-

longing to that Power, and comprised within the said boundaries

where

free trade exists, shall,

by the mutual consent of that Power



APPENDIX.

448 1885.

and of the

otlier or others of

Feb. 2b. j^g^^^j.^l foj.

Berlin.

gg long as the

a non-belligerent state

;

the belligerent parties, be held to be

war

lasts,

and considered as belonging to

the belligerent parties will then abstain

from extending hostilities into such neutralised tenitories as well as from using them as a base for operations of war.

Article XII. In the event of a serious disagreement originating on the subject, or arising within the limits of the territories mentioned in I., and placed under the sj'stem of fi*eedom of trade, between Powers signatory to the present Act or Powers accepting the s^ame, these Powers undertake before appealing to arms to have recourse

Article

to the mediation of one or seveial of the friendly Powers.

Under

the said circumstances the said

Power reserve

to

them-

selves the option of proceeding to arbitration.

CHAPTER

IV.

ACT OF THE NAVIGATION OF THE CONGO.

Article XIII.

The navigation

of the Congo, without any exception of

branches or issues of the river, chant shipping of

all

is

to

remain entirely free

for

any mer-

nations in cargo or ballast, for the carriage of

goods or the carriage of passengers. It shall be in accordance with the provisions of tiie present Act of navigation or of the regulations established in execution of the said Act.

In the exercise of that navigation the subjects and flags of

all

nations shall under all circumstances be treated on a footing of tiie direct navigation from the open sea towards the interior ports of the Congo, and vice versa, as for grand and petty coasting and boat and river work all along the

absolute equality as well as regards

river.

Consequently, throughout the Congo's course and mouths, no

made between the subjects of the river-side and those not bordering on the river, and no exclusive privilege of navigatioTi shall be granted cither to societies or corpotadistinction shall be

States

tions or individuals.

These provisions are recognised by the signatory Powers as henceforth forming part of public international law.

APPENDIX.

449

Article XIV.

The navigation

Congo shall not be subjected to any which are not expressly stipulated for in the present Act. It shall not be burdened with any duties for harbourage, stoppages, depots, breaking bulk, or putting in through of the

restiaints or imposts

stress of weather.

Throughout the length of the Congo ships and merchandise passing along the stream shall be subject to no transit dues, no matter what may be their origin or destination.

There shall not be established any tolls, marine or river, based on the fact of navigation alone, nor shall any duty be imposed on the merchandise on board the vessels. Such ta,\es and duties only shall be levied as are of the character of lemuneration for services

rendered to the said tiavigation. 1.

Taxes of the pnrt

loi-

That

is to

say

:

the actual use of certain local establish-

ments, such as wharves, wai'ehouses, &c.

The

tariff of

such taxes to be calculated on the expenses

of construction and su})port of the said local establishments,

and in

its

application to be independent

and their cargo. Pilotage dues on sections of the

ol

the origin of the

vessels

2.

rivt-r,

or

where

it

appears

necessary to establish stations of certificated pilots.

The

of these dues to be fixed and propoitionate to

tariff

the services rendered. 3.

in respect of the technical and administrative expenses, imposed in the general interest of the navigation, and com-

Dues

prising lighthouse, beacon, and buoyage dues.

Dues of the

last description to

be based on the tonnage of

the ships according to the papers on board, and to be con-

formable to the regulations in force on the Lower Daijube.

The

tariffs of the taxes and dues mentioned in the three preceding paragraphs are not to admit of any differential treatment, and are to be officially published in each port. The Powers reserve to themselves the right at the end of five

by mutual agreement,

years,

tariffs in case thej'^

to inquire into the

Article

The

above-mentioned

require revision.

affluents of the

XV.

Congo shall under

all

circumstances be

subject to the same regulations as the river of which they are ihe tributaries.

YoL. II.— 29

i885. ^^^-

^t^-

^eili"-

APPENDIX.

•150

1885. Feb. 26. ^''^'°-

The |.j^g

t^ame regulations shall apply to the lakes and canals as to

rivers

and streams in the

territories defined in

Article

I.,

paragraphs 2 and 3. Nevertheless the powers of the International Commission of the Congo shall not extend over the said rivers, lakes, and canals, unless with the assent of the States under whose sovereignty they are placed.

It is also

understood that for the territories mentioned

in Article I, paragraph 3, the consent of the sovereign States on

whom

these territories are dependent remains reserved.

Article

The

XV J.

roads, railways, or lateral canals which shall be establishtd

supplementing the innavigability or imperwater-way in certain sections of the Congo, of its affluents and other watercourses held to be like unto them by Article XY., shall be considered in their capacity as means of communication as dependencies of the river, and shall be likewise for the special object of

fections of the

to the traffic of all nations.

open

And

on the river there shall be levied on these roads, railways, on the expenses of construction, and on the profits due to the administration, and maintenance,

and

as

canals, only tolls calculated

promoters.

In the assessment of these

tolls foreigners

and the inhabitantb

of the respective territories shall be treated on a footing of perfect equality.

Article XVII.

An

International Commission

is

instituted appointed to ensure

the execution of the provisions of the present Act of Navigation. The Powers signatory to this Act, as well as those who after-

wards accept

it,

shall at all times be represented

mission each by a delegate.

No

on the said Com-

delegate shall have more than one

vote even in the event of his representing several Governments.

This delegate shall be paid by his own Government direct. The salaries and allowances of the agents and servants of the International Commission shall be charged on the proceeds of the dues levied conformably to Article XIV., ])aragraphs 2 and

:!.

and allowances as well as the number, position, and Huties of the agents and servants shall appear in the account lendered each year to the Governments represented

The amounts

of the said salaries

on the International Commission.

APPENDIX.

451

Article XVIII.

The members

of the International Commus.si(m, as well as the

agents nominated by them,

ai'e

invested with the privilege of in-

The same guarantee and archives of the Cora-

vioUibility in the exercise of their functions. shall extend to the offices, premises,

mission.

Article XIX.

The

International Commission for the navigation of the

Congo Powers of the have nominated their delegates. Pend-

shall be constituted as sooti as five of the signatory

present General Act shall

ing the constitution of the Commission, the nomination of the delegates shall be notified to the Government of the German

Empire, by whom the necessary steps will be taken to manage the meeting of the Commission. The Commission will draw up without delay the arrangements for the naAHgation, river police, pilotage, and quarantine. These regulations as well as the tarifis instituted by the Commission, before being put in force, shall be submitted to the approbation of the Powers represented on the Commission.

Powers interested

shall declare their opinion therein

'J'he

with the

least possible delay.

Ofiences against these regulations shall be dealt wiih by the agents of the Inteinational Ctimmitision, wheie it exercises its authority direct, and in other places by the riverside Power. In case of abuse of power or injustice on the part of an agent or

servant of the International Commission, the individual consider-

ing himself injured on his person or his rights, shall apply to tlie Consular agent of his nation. He will enquire into his comjilaint, \^ prima facie

he finds

to the Commission.

by three or fewer of

reasonable, he shall be entitled to report

it

On its

it

Commission represented join with him in an enquiry

Ids initiative, the

members

shall

touching the conduct of its agent or servant. If the Consular agent considers the decision of the Commission as objectionable in law, he shall report to the Govei-nment,

who

shall refer to the

Powers represented on the Commission, and invite them

to agree

as to the instructions to be given to the Commission.

Article

The International Commission

XX. of the

Congo entrusted under

the terms of Article XVII., with ensuring the execution of the

i885. ^^^'-

''^^•

^'^''''"'

APPENDIX.

452 1885. Feb. 26.

Berlin.

present Act of Navigation shall

.-specially

devote

attention

its

to— r^-^^

indication of such works as are necessary for ensuring

-|^_

the navigability of the Congo, in accordance with the requirements of international trade.

where no Power exercises rights of sovereignty, the International Commission shall itself take the

On

sections of the river

measures necessary for ensuring the navigability of the stream. On sections of the river occupied by a sovereign Power, the International Commission shall arrange with the riversiile auhority.

The

2.

fixing of the tariff for pilotage

and of the general tarilf and third paragraphs

of navigation dues, provided for in the second

of Article

XIV.

mentioned in the first paragraph of Article XIV. shall be settled by the territorial authority within the limits piovided

The

tariffs

for in that Article.

The

collection of these dues shall be

under the care of the

inter-

national or territorial authority, on whose account they have been established.

The administration

3.

of the revenues accruing from the appli-

cation of the foregoing paragraph

The

4.

2.

surveillance of the quarantine establishment ins'ituted

in compliance with Article XXIV. 5. The nomination of agents for the general service of the navi-

own particular servants. The appointment of sub-inspectors shall belong to authority over sections occupied by a Power, and gation and its

the tenitorial to

tbe Inter-

national Commission over the other seciions of the river.

The

riverside

Power

the nomination of

and

this

Power

its

shall

Commission have appointed,

will notify to the International

sub-inspectors which

pay their

it

shall

salaries.

In the exercise of its duties as defined and limited above, the International Commission shall not be subject to the territorial authority.

Article XXI.

In the execution of its task, the International Comtnission shall have recourse in case of need to the vessels of war belonging to the signatory Powers of this Act, and to those which in the future it, if not in contravention of the instructions which have been given to the commanders of those vessels by their respective Governments.

shall accept

shall

APPENDIX.

Article

XXI

453

T.

The vessels of war of the Powers signatory to the present Act which enter the Congo are exempt from the payment of the navigation dues provided for in paragraph 3 of Article XIV. but they shall pay the contingent pilotage dues as well as the harbour ;

dues, unless their intervention has been

national Commission or

its

demanded by the Interagents under the terms of the precedino-

Article.

Article XXIII.

With

the object of meeting the technical and

expenses which

may have

it

to incur, the

XVIL, may

mission, instituted under Article

administrative

International in its

Com-

own name

issue

loans secured on the revenues assigned to the said Commission, The resolutions of tlie Commission regaiding the issue of a loan

must be carried by a majority of two-thirds of its votes. It is undei stood that the Governments represented on the Commission shall not, in any case, be considered as assuming any guarantee nor contracting any engagement or joint responsibility with regard to the said loans, unless special tieaties are concluded

amongst them

to that effect.

The proceeds

of the dues specified in the third paragraph of

Article XIV., shall be in the

place set aside for

first

tiie

payment of

and the amortisation of the said loans, in accordance with the agreements entered into with the lenders. interest

Article

At the mouths of the Congo

XXIV.

there shall be founded, either at the by the intervention of the

initiation of the riverside Powers, or

International Commission, a quarantine establishment, which shall exercise control over the V( ssels entering It shall be decided later

what conditions sanitary

and departing. on by the Powers, if any, and under

control shall be exercised over vessels

navigating the river.

Article

XXV.

The

provisions of the present Act of Navigation shall remain in force during times of war. Consequently, the navigation of all nations, neutral

and

belligerent, shall at all times be free for the

purposes of trade on the Congo,

its

branches,

its aflSuents,

and

its

1885. ^''^' ^^'

^^^^^°-

APPENDIX.

454 1885. ^^^''-^Berlin.

mouths, as well as on the territorial waters fronting the mouths of the river. rpj^^

likewise remain free, notwithstanding the state roads, its railways, its lakes, and its canals as men-

traffic shall

of war, on

its

XV. and XVI.

tioned in Articles

excepiion to this principle shall be in cases in connection with the transport of articles intended for a belligerent, and held in accordance with the law of nations to be contraband of wa-r.

The only

All the woiks and establishments instituted in execution of the present Act, particularly the offices of collection and their funds the same as the staif permanently attached to the service of such establishments, shall be treated as neutral,

and protected by

and

shall be respected

the belligerents.

CHAPTER

V.

THE ACT OF NAVIGATION OF IHE NIGER. Article

The navigation branches or issues,

chant vessels of

XXVI.

of the Niger, without is

and

all nations, in

or convej'ing passengers.

excepting any of the

shall continue completely free for mer-

cargo or ballast, conveying goods

It shall be

conducted in accordance with

the provisions of the present Act of Navigation, and with the

regulations established in execution of the same Act.

In the exercise of thit navigation, the subjects and flag of every all circumstances on a footing of

nation shall be treated under

perfect equality, as well as in the direct navigation from the open

sea to the interior ports of the Niger, and vice versa, as for grand

and petty-coasting, and in boat and riverwork throughout

its

course.

Consequently throughout the length and mouths of the Niger there shall be no distinction between the subjects of the riverside

and those of states not bordering on the river, and there no exclusive privilege of navigation to any society or corporation or any individual. These provisions are recognised by the signatory Powers as henceforth forming part of public international law. states

shall be conceded

Ariicle

The navigation

XXVII.

of the Niger shall not be subjected to any obstacle, nor duty based only on the fact of the navigation.

APPENDIX. It

shall

jiot

455

be subject to any duties for harbourage, stop-

1885.

pages, depots, breaking bulk, or putting into port through stress of

^^^-

weather.

Berlin.

Throughout the length

Niger vessels and goods passing tran-;it dues, whatso-

of the

along the stream shall not be subject to any ever may be their origin or destination.

There shall be established no sea nor river toll based on the sole any duty on the goods which happen to be on board the ships only such taxes and dues shall be levied as fact of navigation, nor ;

payment

are of the nature of a

The

navigation.

for services

rendered to the said

of these taxes or dues shall admit of no

tariffs

diflerential treatment.



Article

XXVIII.

The aflfiuents of the Niger shall in every respect be subject to the same regulations as the river of which they are the tributaries. Article

XXIX.

Eoads, railways, or lateral canals, which shall be established with the special object of supplementing the innavigability or other imperfections of the waterway, in certain sections of the course of the Niger,

its affluents, its

branches, and

its issues, shall

be considered in their capacity of means of communication as dependencies of the river, and shall be similarly open to the traflSc of all nations.

As on the

river there shall be levied on the roads, railways, and

canals, only such tolls as are calculated

struction, maintenance,

on the expenses of conand administration, and on the profits due

to the promoters.

In the assessment of these

tolls,

foreigners and the inhabitants

of the respective territories shall be treated on a footing of perfect equality.

Article

XXX.

Great Britain undertakes to apply the principles of freedom of navigation enunciated in Articles to so

and

much

issues, as are or shall

The

XXVI., XXVII., XXVIII., XXIX.,

of the waters of the Niger and

its affluents,

branches,

be under her sovereignty or protectorate.

regulations she will

draw up

for the safety

the navigation shall be designed to facilitate as the passage of merchant shipping.

and control of

much

as possible

-*'•

APPENDIX.

456 1885. Feb. 2G. Berlin.

It is understood that glials

nothing in the engagements thus accepted

be interpreted as hindering likely or to hinder Great Britain

from making any regulations whatever as to the navigation which not be contrary to the spirit of such engagements.

sliall

Great Biitain undei takes to protect foreign

trader.^ of

every

nation engaged in commerce in tbose parts of the course of the

Niger which are or ishall be under her sovereignty or protectorate, as if they were her own subjects, pi ovided that such traders conform to the regulations which are or shall be established in accoidance with the foregoing.

Article

XXXI.

France accepts under the same reservations and in identical terms the obligations set forth in the preceding Article, so iar as they apply to the waters of the Niger, its affluents, branches, and issues, which are or shall be under her sovereignty or protectorate.

Article

XXXII.

Each of the other signatory Powers similarly undertake that they will similarly act in such cases as they exercise or may hereany part of

after exercise rights of sovereignty or protectorate in

the Niger,

branches, or issues.

its affluents,

Article

The

XXXIII.

provisions of the present Act of Navigation shall remain in

force during times of war.

Consequently the navigation of

all

nations, neutral or belligerent, shall at all times be free for the

purposes of trade on the Niger,

and issues, as well as on the and issues of the river

The

traffic

state of V7ar,

Article

shall

on

its

its

branches and affluents,

territorial

likewise

its

mouths

waters fronting the mouths

remain free notwithstanding the and canals mentioned in

roads, its railways,

XXIX.

The only exception

to this principle shall be in cases in con-

nection with the transport of articles intended for a belligerent

and

held, in accordance

of war.

with the law of nations, to be contraband

APPENDIX.

CHAPTER

457

VI.

DECLARATION RELATIVE TO THE ESSENTIAL CONDITIONS FOR NEW ANNEXATIONS ON THE AFRICAN CONTINENT TO BE CONSIDERED EFFECTIVE.

XXXIV.

Article

The Power which in future takes possession of a territory on the coasts of the African continent situated outside its actual possession, or which, having none there, has first acquired them, and the Power whicli assumes a protectorate, shall accompany either act by a notification addressed to the other Powers signatory to the present Act, so as to enable them to protest against the same if there exist any grounds for their doing so.

Article

The Powers signatory

XXXV.

to the present

Act recognise the obliga-

tion to ensure in the territories occupied

by them on the coasts of the African continent, the existence of an adequate authority to enforce respect for acquired rights, and for freedom of trade and transit

wherever stipulated.

CHAPTER

VII.

GENERAL PROVISIONS. Article

The Powers signatory

XXXVI.

the present general Act reserve to themselves the right of eventually, by mutual agreement, introto

ducing therein modifications or improvements the utility of which has been shown by experience.

Article

XXXVII.

The Powers who may not have signed the present Act shall accept its provisions by a separate Act. The adhesion of each Power shall be notified in the usual diplomatic manner to the Government of the German Empire, and by it and adherent States. imply the full right of acceptance of

to those of all the signatory

The adhesion obligations,

shall

and admission

the present general Act.

all

the

to all the advantages stipulated for in

1885. ^^^-

^*^-

^*^^''"-

APPENDIX.

458

XXXVIII.

Article

general Act shall be aatified with as short a delayand in no case shall that delay exceed a year. come into force for each Power on the date of its ratifi-

The present

1885. Beb. 26.

as possible,

Berlin.

It i-hall

by that Power. Meanwhile the Powers signatory to the present Act bind themselves to adopt no measure that shall be contrary to the provisions cation

of the said Act.

shall send its ratification to the Government of the which nndeitakes to ratily the same to all the Empire, German signatory Powers of the present general Act. The ratifications of all the Powers shall remain deposited in the

Power

Eacli

Government of the German Empire. When

archives of the

all

the

have been produced, a deed of deposit shall be drawn up in a protocol which shall be signed by the Eepresentatives of all the Powers that have taken part in the Beilin Conferratifications shall

and of

ence,

a certified copy shall be sent to each of

it

all

those

Powers.

In consideration of which, the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed the present general Act and hereto affixed their seals. Done at Berlin, the twenty- sixth day of the month of February,

one thousand

eiglit

hundred and

eightv-five.

from Banana Point to Stanley Falls.

DISTANCE AND TIME-TABLE

tauce in Knglisb

UpM.

H.

From Banana

I'oint at the,

Boijia to

Mussuko

NokW

Mussuko

to

Nokki

Vivi

Vivi

to

.

l>

3 45!f

.

.

.

.

.

.

1

235

Mswata

94

9

.

Station

I

....

Kwamouth

2 30

Bolobo to Ungende Ciimp

.

.

1

.

Lukolcla Station Station

De-

serted Village

.

.

.

Ngomb(i Station

.

.

.

Equati;r Station

1

121 .

Onrriid forward

.

.

• •

..

"tto"





• • I

• •

or

208

Upoto Station .

.

.

••

.

"

|

••

Ci'mp Uiunda

15

10 10 45

243 45

Camp Gimp Camp Camp

1 1

10 10 10 10 10 10

I

I

•• !



.... .

.

^^

I

"



!

6 45

Camp

• •

122 I

Busaka Barun Basoko Ciimp

10

Usindi Irebu

10 10

!

Camp Camp Camp Camp Camp Camp

Yambiingu

5

(J

7

Bangala Station.Central Iboko

Old Yahilima

7

.

H. u.

243 45 10

.

.

lower Yambinga

10 10

to

Camp

Camp 30

8

.

Camp

''70

.

Camp Camp

Rubnnga, 10 10

Bolobo Station

quator Station to Uraiiga

>ew Kubunga

I

Camp Camp

Luknlela

V14

Sta-i

tion

"

.

Bolombo 94 10 10

to

I

]

Kimpoko

Camp Camp Mswata

15

'

110

to Leopoldville, over-t

land Leopoldville to

Brought forward

3 30

sea to Ponta da Lenha. Ponta da Lenha to boma

Lown.

Up.

Miles.

'

• •

8 10 6 25 3 50 8 10 8 15

14

5

<

17

8 8

I

'.^ '"^

I

• ]

"

I

••

" at

4 20 2 30

mouth ofCbofu

Stanley Falls Station '!otal

.

. .

142

7 15 10 10 10 10 CI 10 45 5 15

1413 486

264 15

INDEX. Abed bin

Afrikaansclie Handels-Verceniging,

Salem, slave trader, ii. 144 Aborigines, study of tlie, i. 313, 314 ideas of barter among, i. 463 Accident to Lieut. Braconnier, i. 316

Accidents few,

i.

226

Accusation, unjust, against tbe expedition at Mali ma, i. 299 Actes de Navigation, ii. 396, 307 Adage, error of an old, i. 198 Adamoli, Signor, i. 35

Adansonia,

i.

355

Aden, 51 Advice for the

;

ii.

354

i.

to health,

ii.

tropics,

ii.

323

;

inattention

320, 321

climate wrongly abused, i. 66 crossing, i. 59 climate of, ii. 281 Europeans in, ii. 238 past isolation of equatorial, ii. 372 reclaimable, ii. 373 stations on the east coast, i. 35, 36 abuse of, 252 ii. unjust

Africa,

;

;

;

;

African and European

life,

Association Ints-rnational, expedition of, i. 39

ii.

259

fiist

absurd grandeur of, i. 291, 305 climate, abuse of, ii. 284. 298 dialects not understood among the chiefs,





196 gardens, what 258

staff,

i.

may be grown

hill scenes, loneliness of,

i.

in,

ii.

95

ii. International Association, i. 38 its foundation, i. 33 life, delusions regarding, ii. 241, 242 life, conditions of enjoyment of, ii. 248;

363

;

;

250 produce ii. 368, 369

:

table of value in Liverpool,

society, the

German,

sunshine,

94,

i.

ii.

387

Trading Company oi"

:

see

Afrikaansche

acting in unison,

ii. 87 Afrikaansche Handels-Venootschap, 38, 51, 72, 450

;

401

;

ii.

9

Ambrizette River,

Ambush

29,

H

17 58 51, 56 ii.

Amelot, Mnns., ii. America, i. 28 Amomum, ii. 358 "Amour-propre^' on 276

the Congo,

ii.

240,

Anchorage at Banana Point, i. 64 Anglo- Portuguese treaty, ii. 381-384 Governor?-General of, i. Angola, i. 14 453 boundaries of, i. 455 Animal life, i. 176 Animals, domestic, i. 394 Anderson, Captain, i. 239, 258, 264, 268, his services, ii. 52, 264 284, 478, 481 256, 257 Mr. (English Foreign Office), ii. 395 Ankoli, a guide, i. 415, 421, 424, 425, 429. 433, 441 Antelope, i. 176, 509 skins, ii. 354 Anzichana, literally people of the interior, i. 3 ;

;

;

;

i.

i.

i.

at BoIoIjo,

;

95

Handels-Vereeuiging. Africans, incapable

;

270, 271 Alliances, difficulty of forming, i. 388 Aloes, ii. 354 Amazon Kiver, i. 86 comparison to the, L

Ambacca, i. 454. Ambussi capital of Congo-land, Ambeze, see Ambassi

238, 239

ii.

i. 29; conveyance and accommodation, i. 35; 38, 51", 72, 156 Agricultural prospects, i. 158, 391, 393, 412, 414 Ague, ii. 328 "A. L A." steam launch, i. 477, 484, 501 ii. 57, 59, 116 Ajakkas invade Congo, i. 11, 12 Albert Mount (Camemons), ii. 231 Albion, the ss., i. 28, 38, 39, 49, 57, 63, 61, 67, 79, 83, 88, 91, 103-105, 107, 108 Alfonso. King, i. 35 Alima Kiver, i. 233 Allard, Dr., i. 202, 228 his services, ii.

otters free

;

INDEX.

460

Aiizichi, liter.iUy " Inland," i. 3 camp uf slaves, ii. 145 character-

Arabs.



istics,

;

4U

i.

;

dhows, employment

of,

i.

incidents of slave-trading, ii. 169 cunning of, slave-traders, ii. 124, 133 ii. 154; on the Congo, ii. 139; overtaken, i'. 142 stations to be avoided, i. 40; trailing communities, ii. 360, 363

48

;

;

;

;

Arabs takeu down

river, ii. 168 Arachis hypogea, ii. 353 rivers, ii. 348 by naviArea drained by gable water, ii. 3G6 Ariel, H.M.S. i. 86 (note) Arniament of an expedition, i. 47 ;

Armed

Ngalyema,

followers of

365 Armlets,

i.

i.

362, 363,

428

Arntz, Professor, on treaties, ii. 380 "Artful dodgers," ii. 246, 247 Artliington mission, i. 496 Articles for barter and trade, i. 156, 157 included in the stores, i. 285 Aruwimi Kiver, ii. 115 Assistant chief, qualifications of an, i. 466 Assistants, disappointing, ii. 244-246; successful, ii 245 "Association International du Congo," its sovereignty ceded to objects, i. 51, 52 the, ii. 225 Austro-Hungarian committee, i. 36 Avarice of aborigines, i. 46 Axle tree, a rotten, i. 316 ;

Ba-bangi tribe, the, Babari tribe, i. 506

Babwende

i.

295

133, 134, 137

ii.

Bakanga

ii. 38 Samuel, ii. 358 Bakonde tribe, ii. 360 Bakongo, i. 137, 148, 220 ii. 209; traders, jealousy of, i. 309 ivory traders, i. 321 Baknos tribe, ii. 360 Bakumira, ii. 345 Bakumu tribe, ii. 360 Balegga tribe, ii. 360 Balluy, M., i. 231 ii. 185, 395 Balui, ii. 43 pirates, ii. 68, 69, 70 river, ii. 70, 345 Balunda tribe, ii. 360 Biinjarungu tribe, ii. 360 Bambarri', i. 43 Bamtumu or Wambundu, i. 323 Bamu Island, i. 389, H95, 396, 505 Banana, i. 75, 76, 79, 81, 83, 87, 92 ii. 310, 319, 320, 310

Baker,

ii.

228,

garden,

a,

i.

500

groves, i. 432, 518; ii. 99, 1.36, 193 Point, i. 29, 31,59, 62-64, 71, 91, 105, 108, 14y Bananas, ii. 24G, 357 Bantunu tribe, i. 406, 505 Bangala. tribe, ii. 21, 24, 25, 44, 56, 76, 79,

80-83, 85, 172 justice, ii. 176 ii. 340; lake, ii. 358, 359 also Lake Beraba. Bankruptcy of Congo merchants, i. 50 Bankwa of Kinshassa, i. 375 Banning, Mons., ii. 394 Banquet at Vivi, i. 153, 154 ;

Bangweolo,

see

:



Banunu tribe, i. 518 Banyema tribe, ii. 360 Banza, a village, i. 161 Chibweta, i. 165; Kimpuiizu, i. 162, 163; Kinle'le', i. 165; Kulu, i. 135, 161, 163, 165; ii. 215; Lungu, i. 161, 162, 165; Manteka, ii. 214, 299, 303; Mbuba, ii. 207; Mgangila, i. 165; Nkosi, ii. 215; Sombo, i. 161, 163; Uvana, i. It.l, 162, 165, 197, 198, 199; Vivi, i. 129, 133 Baobab.--, i. 355, 504 ii. 5 Baptist missionaries, i. 225 missions, i. 496; at San Salvador, i. 13; Missionary ;

;

;

Society, the,

13; school, native children at

i.

208

ii.

Barga,

ss.

Barrack

i.

;

ders,

77, 85, 109, 116;

i.

282, 468

i.

29,

67

B.irgaining in Cungo-land, i. 137 Barometer variations, ii. 331

30 Bacillus Malarix, ii. 319 " Bad spirits in the woods," i. 223, 224 Bagamoyo, i. 40, 45, 48 Bagt-nyu tribe, ii. 360 Baggage of Europeans, i. 285 Bahamba tribe, ii. 170 villages, ii. 113 Bahunga tribe, ii. 122, 151, 170; marauterritory,

Banana Creek,

tribt',

ISir

;

;

;

;

;

;

ami Congo

265 463 and trade, articles for African, i. 156, 157 Bartering, i. 374, 383, 384, 444, 500 ii. 15, 16, 83 Barth, Dr., the explorer, ii. 385

Barter

life

life, ii.

among aborigines,

i.

;

;

description of the Shari River,

Barua

tribe,

Barumba

ii.

tribe,

360 ii.

;

villages,

ii.

ii.

131

113

170

Basaka fishing hamlets, ii. 113 Basazza people, i. 429 Busoko or Busongo, ii. 115, 119; 356 Basokos, a fine people, Hasongo see Basoko.

ii.

spears,

ii.

123

:

Bastian, Dr., the German traveller, i. 13, 34; ii. 387 Basundi, i. 73 Baswa Falls, ii. 359; fishermen, ii. 134 Bateke, i. 73, 137, 148, 513; ii. 28; tribe, i. 295, 407 ivory traders, i. 294 sign of " not guiltv," i. 373 ivory trade of the, i. 384 Baths, advice about, ii. 326, 329 Batuki tribe, ii. 38, 43, 71 ;

;

;

Bavrnnga, ii. 345 Bayneston, i. 253; ii. 298; 255 Bays of Lake Leopold, i. 437

hill,

i.

254,

461

-INDEX. Bazombo

traders, jealousy of,

321 Beads as currency, traders,

i.

309

ivory

;

i.

ii.

101, 102 de, i. 35

ii.

296 242, 282, 294, 295

ii.

of

;

Mantu,

i.

burning of, ii. 56 in arms, second burning of, ii. 183 Bolombo, ii. 79

57, 58

ii.

Boma,

i. 30, 31, 74, 86-89, 91-93, 96, 102, 103, 105, 109, 113. 116, 132, 133, 143-145, ii. 287, 298, 310, 319, 156, 168, 171, 513 341 a zareeba, i. 46; its history, i. 96protectorate at, ii. 225; s-anatorium 101 at, ii. 228; hospital at, ii. 271 ;

;

354 Beeswax, Behaini, Martin de, tiie explorer, i. 1 Belgarde, the Abhe, i. 16 Belgian officers, i. 239; military officers, colony, Congo-land not a, i. 54 ii. 259 enterprise, ii. 388 Belgique, La, ss., i. 68, 83, 91, 103, 104, ii.

;

107, 121.

145, 149, 152, 196, 208,

144,

469 145 tne first to establish a national committee, i. 33; foimatioii ot its International Committee, i. 34, 35

Beliiiqus Creek,

Belgium,

i.

i.

26, 28

Bemba, Lake,

i.

;

River,

i.

;

Bombax, ii. 5, 30 Bondeh village, ii. 126 Bonny River, ii. 234 Borneo,

379

ii.

Bossi missionary station,

ii. 185 Boundaries of Congo Free State, of territories, ii. 400, 401

Braconnicr, Lieut.,

ii.

401

243, 253, 258, 273,

i.

276,279,286,316 Brandy, ii. 252, 254 Brass

collars,

297, 428

i.

rods as currency,

8

Benevolence, a valuable virtue,

Bengo

;

;

243, 357 Bed of tlie Coiiso, survey of the, i. 402 " Beef and beer," Burton's advice, ii. 294,

Beer, 512

;

;

Beamout, M. Bouthchier Beans,

i. 521 assembly of chiefs, i. 528 centre of ivory trade, ii. 2 frugal chiefs at, ii. 2; departure of a flotilla from, ii. 3;

ii.

166

454

Benguella, i. 456 Benin, Biglit of, ii. 231 river, ii. 234 Bentley, Mr., i. 250 Benzani Congo, a chief, i. 130, 161 Bere, another name for Welle River Beri Mount, ii. 211 Berlin Congo Conference, ii. 391-403 Beverage wanted, a, ii. 323 Biaugala, i. 518; ii. 57 Bin Kassim, Sultan, i. 43 Binnie, a Scotch engineer, ii. 165, 272, 427, ;

275, 276 Birds, i. 207, 417, 419, 436 ii. 6, 8 immense flocks of. ii. 17 feathers, ii. 354 Bisa plateau, ii. 361 Bismarck, Prince, ii. 384, 386, 387, 388, 389, 3'.»0, 393, 396, 399, 402, 403, 407 Biverre River, i. 70, 514 ii. 129, 130-132, 170, 349; identical with the Welle, ii. ;

;

;

;

130

524: 243

i. 294, 374, 384, 488, 22, 28, 44, 52, 62, 64, 84, 102,

ii.

Brazils,

shipment of slaves

Brazza,

Le Comte

to Ihe,

i.

Savorgiian de,

14 i.

292,

385 Bread, native, i. 431 Breadth of tiie Congo, i. 89 Bridge making, i. 226 Bridges, across the Bundi, i. 186; Bula River, i. 187 Luendu, i. 187 Lulu, i, 187; across the Nkusu, i. 154, 186; destroyed, i. 4-18; Loa, i. 201; Nkusu, 223 Lukuluzi River, i. 312 Inkissi, i. 316; Utuvu, i. 318 British Expedition of 1816 see Tuckey's 231-234;

ii.



;

;

;

;

:

Exiaedition. cruisers and the slave-trade,

].

451

273 Government, action of the, ii. 380 exploration, ii. 385 Bronchitis, li. 327 Brotherhood-blood see Blood-brotherliood. Broyon, Mons., i. 39, •lO Bruce, James, ii. 385 definitions of ht at, ii. 313 Brush circles, i. 356 Brussels, i. 25 meeting at the palace, 26 Conference, i. 33, 36 Buclmer, ii. 387 Buffalo, i. 395 river, i. 212 Soudi killed by a, i. 253; skins, ii. 354; and lion officers,

ii.



;

Bliick babies, our "fondness" for, " Blackman's ])ot," i. 101

Black's, Mr. Wm., novels, Black Point, ii. 22H

1.

299

i.

;

401

rivers, ii. 77, 359 Blandy, Mr., of Madeira, i. 153, 154 Blankets, ii. 324 Block house at Le'opoldville, i. 375, 376 Bloeme, Mr. de, i. 32, 73 ii. 395 Blood-brotiierhood, i. 30, 306, 385 ii. 23, ;

;

38, 48, 68, 79, 86, 89, 90, 104, 132, 171,

177 Blood-money, i. 525, 527 Bloodshed, reasons against, i. 523, 524 Boleko of Bangala, ii. 80, 82, 83 Bolobo, i. 102, 507, 515-519, 521; ii. 2, 4, 26, 50, 52, 288 serious disturbances at, ;

;

;

;

;

fright, ii. 51 Buffaloes, i. 176, 177, 509 ii. 8, 241 Buguku of Ubuma, i. 18; son of Gankabi, ;

i.

422

Buka

Island,

Buka'a,

i.

i.

110

315

Bula River, across the,

i.

i.

180,223, 224, 229; bridge 187

INDEX.

462

" Bula Matari " (Breaker of Rocks), i. 148, 109, 231, 382, 383 and Makoko, i. 328331 first use of the name, i. 237 recondealings with ciled to Ngalyeina, i. 313 ;

;

;

;

Ngalyema, bila,

27 28

;

;

357

i.

welcome from Go-

;

acts as peacemaker, ii. 26, Stanley, difference between, ii.

507

i.

;

and and Mata liwyki,

Bula-mbemba Bulangungu, BumVja,

ii.

Point,

ii. 89, G5, 81

i.

90

477

i.

;

;

i.

192

Bunga

Kiver, also Isanga.

camp,

;

ii.

;

227

i.

66; district,

ii.

170

:

fee

;

;

officers,

i.

11

Burns; Mr. Spencer, ii. 212, 225, 273, 274 Burnt Rocks or Montes Quemadros, i. 17 Burroughs and Welcome (London), ii. 325 Biuton^ Captain R. F., i. 102 ii. 385 Buruld River, another name for the Ikel;

,

a town, ii. 33 Burying a war, ii. 45 Busanga Island, ii. 153

;

;

527

monks

;

148 4

in Congo-land,

chronicle,

;

16

i.

Caravans at native markets, i. 282 between stations, i. 385 Caravanserai at Pallaballa, ii. 218 Cargoes of ocean steamers, i. 92 C.irter and Cadenhead, massacre of, i, 216 Cashew, the, ii. 358 Cassava, ii. 243, 357 bread, i. 374 plantations, i. 414; decomposing, ii. 81 Castle Hill at Vivi, i. 115, 117-120, 123127 ii. 257

357

Cadiz, i. 468 Cafe best for breakfast,

401

ii.

;

;

241; in the

i.

160 361

ii. ii.

i, 75, 76 of Blood-brotherhood,

ii.

24

:

see

also Blood-brotherhood.

Chambezi,

described by Livingidentical with the Congo, i. 8, 358 region, extent of, ii. 361 its character, ii. 362 Character of the natives, i. 29, 30 Cheese, ii. 324 Cliibale mountains, the, i 8 ii. 340, 361, stone,

ii.

362

ii,

340 ;

;

river, ;

;

362 ii.

321

Caillie Rene, ii. 385 Calamities at Le'opoldville,

516;

ii.

;

486, 487

5, 6,

92,

rumoured murder

;

of,

i.

14

Cambier, Lieutenant, i. 39 Cameron, ii. 3»5 Cameroons Mountains, ii. 231 Camoens' reference to the Zaire, i. 2, 103 Camp, native, i. 174 Camps, bush fences nround. i. 46 Camwood powder, i. 384 ii. 48, 356 " Candle-berry " tree, ii. 358 Cannibalism charged against the expedition, 1. 375 Cano(s price of a i. 43; wreck of a, ii. 49 ;

;



354

488 1, 9,

Chief, a jealous, i. 522, 533 a brutal, i. 218-220 a Herculean, ii. 85 of Stanley Falls Station, ii. 165 Chiefs. of Congo, i. 17; in an expedition, i. 48 on thu tast coast, tiie obstructive, i. 40,41,43; subsidised, i. 54; of Vivi, i. 129, 130. 142; of Nsanda, meeting of the, i. 164-170; jurisdicti.m of, i. 295; military strength of, i. 350; tn aties with, i. 473-477 power of native, i. 508, 509 of Bolobo, assembly of, i. 528; wealtii of native, ii. 2, 3; frugal, ii. 2 (native) farewell at Le'opoldville, ii. 191 forms of treaties with native, ii. 195-197, 20."), 206 (native) and districts, list of, ii. ;

i.

Calamus Indicm, Calavanga Islet, i. 115, 120, 126, 128 i.

Calcite, ii. 214 CJallewart, Mens.,

;

;

Cabo Lombo boundary,

i.

9

Ceremony

;

Cam, Diego,

i.

the,

Cemetery at LJaiana,

ii. 53 303, 304, 377, 378 i. 137, 148; ii. 1, 11, 13; ivory love of tribe, the, i. 295 sellers, i. 296

ii.

i.

Cattle,

By-yanzi,

Cabbage,

ii.

Capuchin E.\pedition,

Catfish,

Njali, the Chief, 290, 291, 292,

i.

27_

Captives taken by slavers,

expedition, i. 283 Catarrhs, ii. 327

Busch, Dr., ii. 402, 407 Bush Fences, around camps, i. 46 Butter, ii. 321 Butunu, ii. 19,21,23

grandeur,

;

Castor oil, ii. .353 Casualties during a year,

eraba, q.v.

Bwa-bwa

;

;

Bungata, ii. 32, 37 district, ii. 176 Bunsen, Dr. George Von, i. 34 Burial, custom, ii. 184 place of Tm-key's ,

;

;

;

;

101

Biindi, the, i. IGl. 179, 180 river, i. 172175, 192, 207, 213, 220, 221, 322. 403; bridge across the, i. 186 valley, i. 186 forest,

Canoes, dragging overland, i. 190 towing native, i. 416; speed attained by native, kept subm. r ed, ii. 85 at villages, ii. IH number of, ii. 109; war, ii. 114. 115; au enormous flotilla of, ii. 136, 137 standing on end, ii. 139, 141 Canoe-wrights of Wenya, ii. 160 Cao, Diego, the explorer, see Cam Caoutchouc plant, ii. 92, 97 Palmas, i. 78 S. Juan, C
;

;

;

;

;

198-204 214 i. 46 Chikwanga (Cassava-bread \ Chili pepper and tears, ii. 40 Chigoes,

i.

Chikombo,

ii.

10, 11

INDEX. Cliills,

dangers

of,

ii.

286, 287, 296, 297,

30y, 324, 327, 329

Chilungu, China, the

i.

475

374

;

256 Chronicle of the Capuchin expedition, Chroniclers, unreliability of the old, Chumbiri, i. 514, 515; ii. 5, 26 i.

i.

9

5

45 ii.

239 Clapperton, ii. 385 Clarence Cove, ii. 231 i.

487

Climate, abuse of the African, i. 66 ii. 284, 298 and conduct, ii. 220, 221 of Africa, ii. 280 of Upper Congo regions, ;

;

;

;

ii.

289

Clotli markets,

payments

ii.

in,

177 i. 193

station stores of,

284 Clothes in Africa, European old, 131 Clothing in the tropics, Coal-trade, the, i. 74

i.

65

;

ii.

i.

130,

326 i.

61. 62 ii. 322 as a beverage, ii. 322 375 shipped at Benguella, i. 456 Cognac, ii. 242, 308 dangers of the ]^)etit verre, i. 66 Cola nuts, i. 384 Cold and heat, influence of, ii. 293, 294 in ConiTO-land, ii. 314, 315 camp, i. 212 water, dangers of drinking, ii. 315, 317 winds, i. 264 ii. 298 on the river, ii. 172 Coldest spot ill the country, i. 210 " Colds," African, ii. 286 Collars of brass wire, i. 297 Coloured men and Europeans, relative numbers of, i. 285 Comber, Mr. T. J. (Baptist Missionary), i. 17, 445, 496 Comblaiiie rifles, i. 47 Comite of the Association, i. 29, 37, 38, 114, 150, 195, 225, 226,448 aims of the, i. 30, 31, 38; its resolutions and instructions. ii.

2ti

;

ii.

;

;

;

Commercial expeditions, character of, i. travellers, i. 210, 214 24, 25 Committees, national, i. 35, 36 Commonwealth of stations, i. 54 Commune, Mons del, ii. 225 Communities, ancient, i. 316 Communication between stations, i. 285 Compeigne, M. de, i. 231 ii. 385 Compensation for murder, i. 525, 527 Complaints from the stuff, i. 70, 71 Conditions of enjoyment of African life, ii. 248-250 Confederation at Leopoldville, i. 495 of natives, i. 53 ;

;

Conference at Berlin, ii. 391 Conf. rences, native fomlness for, i. 167 Congo and Central African Company, i.76, 92 Canon, ii. 210; atmosphere of the, i. 241 Free State, not a Belgian Colony, building the Free State, ii. 378 i. 54 Free State territory, ii. 365 Free State boundaries, ii. 401 Congo la Lemba, i. 179 ii. 217 hills, i. 162 Congo-land. erroneous names in, i. 3; beginning of the history of, i. 9 subdivided into dominions, i. 10; mission in, i. 11, 13, 16; Ihe slave-trade, i. 14; proper, extent and boundaries, i, 11 boundaries ;

;

;

;

the mouth of the Congo,

Cocoa as a beverage,

Coffee,

Internationale Associa259 tion du Congo, ii. 259 report to, i. 462 Commerce in the Congo basin, i. 30, 31 in ground nuts, ii. 215 free on the Congo, ii. 390, 393 i.

;

;

i.

Coa-
;

;

;

i.

Civilisation, absence of conveniences of,

Cliffy Point,

;

;

Chrit tuplierson, Albert, Danish sailor, i. 71, 107, 208, 224, 238, 239, 258, 264, 268, 275, 347, 414, 449 his services, ii. 255,

Chunyu,

26-28

meetings at Brussels, i. 26-28 i. 50 change of name, i. 51 indiscreet disclosures of the, i. 55, 56 d Etudes du Hant Congo, its formation,

i.

its objects,

ss. i. 455, 456, 460 Chinsalla, i. 139, 161; creek, i. 110; plateau, i. 127; village, i. 119, 123, 124 Chioiizo district, i. Ii5, 161, 163, 166; plateau, i. 120, 125, 126 Chofu River, ii. 153 Christianity, conversion of the Congo king to, i. 11 Christmas Day at Iboko, ii. 173; presents, i.

463

:

;

;

;

;

;

;

17; essentiality of fi-eemen for work in, i. 62 native customs not to be changed, i. 53, 54 business intercourse in, i. 53 subdivisions of power in, i. 17-19; the king of, breaks the allegiance to the Portuguese, i. 12; elders, i. 17; national flag of, i. 17; Totela, King of, i. 17 Congo liiver, i. 20, 77 altitude at Stanley beginning the ascent, i. Falls, ii. 343 79 barren of classic associations, i. 101 breadth of the, i. 89; force and soundings, i. Ill the Brussels proposals, i. 26, 27; Caraoens' reference to the, i. 103; commerce on the. i. 58; currents, i. 114, 115, 117, 249; chiefs, i. 17; proposal for negotiations witii chiefs, i. 52 Christian missions on the, i. 58 compared to other rivers, i. 401 course of the, li. 343, 344 described by a Capuchin father, i. 4 discovery of llie moutli, i. 1,9: districts ;iuil their native chiefs, lisi of, ii. 198-204; divisionsof the, ii. 340 exped'tion, i.24; i'acexploiation, how to utilise, i 24 of,

i.

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

INDEX.

464

Father IMeroUa's dei. 63, 64 scription of tlie. i. 4 the highway of the, historically witiiout fame, i. 102 1. 24 Islands, i. 110, 249, 515, 516; ii. 14. 30, 38, 65, 97 jottings for pilots ou the, i. 403-405 large steamers ou the, ii. 7-9 lengtti of its tributaries, length, ii. 339 Lopez's extraordinary descripii. 347 (Lower), detion of the Lower, i. 3

tories,

;

;

;

:

;

;

;

;

;

;

scription of,

i.

80

(Lower), extent

;

of, ii.

340 merchants, character of, i. 32 misthe mouth of Dionaries on the, i. 496 ;

;

;

navig^ition. i. 85, 61-63, 80, 81 no 86. 113, 114, 116; ii. 339, 340, 346 distinctive native name for the, i. 202 old names of the, i. 1, 2 Purchas's description of the, i. 4, 5 rise and fall, i. 87; ships f.)r the, ii. 367 soundings at Vivi, i. 128, 129 soundings or the river, steamers for the, ii. 367; tides on i. 402; the, i. 87 tributaries, ii. 344, 352: Tuckey's description of the, i. 5, 6; valley of the Lower, i. 62; villages, ii. 45; volume of the river, i. 86, 87, 402, 403 work on the, ii. 252 (Upper) ii, 132 formation of the first steamer on, i. 375 expedition, i. 394; expedition (1883), i. 501 trader.'?, ii. 21, 22, 23 extent of, ii. 340 basin, ii. 348 products of the region, ii. 352-3.38 the,

i.

:

;

Crocodiles, i. 209, 398, 436 ii. 2, 6, 8, 18 chased by, i. 245 their numbers, i. 262 ;

;

Isle of,

;

;

110

i.

Cross River (Calabar), ii. 232 Crudgiugton, Mr., i. 250

Cucumbers

see Vegetables. Cultivable soil, ii. 213 Currency, articles of native, 1. 193 brass rods as, i. 294, 374, 384, 488, 524; ii. :

;

22, 28, 44. 52, 62, 64, 84, 102, as,

101, 102;

ii.

Langa,

101

ii.

change

cowries as,

;

Currents of the Congo, 249

Customs

of, ii.

243 at

;

beads

Langa-

102

114, 115, 117,

i.

difficulty at Sierra

Leone,

i.

57

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

Congo

;

life v.

Barrack

life, ii.

265

basin, table of our actual knowledge political divisions of the, of the, ii. 364 development of the, ii. 374 ii. 365 ;

;

scenery, i. 92-94, 111, 112, 124126, 171-173, 175, 176, 179-184. 243247, 250, 255, 256, 258, 262, 264, 324, 325, 389-391, 3.6, 397, 399-401, 504, 505, 511-513, 515, 516; ii. 8, 9, 11, 17,

45,67,77, 79,91-93, 152 Congoese shi'ewdness in trade, i. 137 Conical huts, ii. 126, 127 Constantine, the Grand Duke. i. 35 Contracts, character of, i. 31, 32 Conveniences of civilisation absent,

ii.

b8. 71, 76, £0, 177,

Cordior, Capitaine, i. 475 Cost of the flotilla of the Expedition, i. 68 of negotiations at Ntamo, i. 310 Costume, natives in gorgeous, i. 364 Cotton, growtii of, ii. 358 Cottonwood, i. 430 Countries represented at Brussels in 1878, i. 26, 28 Country, a rich, ii. 97 Cowries, as currency, ii. 102 Creek Town Old Calabar), ii. 233 Crocodile Creek, i. 101 '

;

;

Date palms, ii. 5 Daumas, Beraud, & Co., Dead, saluting the, i. 75

i.

76

Dealing, prospective results of fair, i. 53 i. 15.', 210 Death, from sickness, ii. 290 native views causes of, ii. 306-309; during of, i. 392 occurring in the cold a year, i. 241

Deaiies, Mr.,

;

;

;

288 Deauville, i. 23 season,

i.

De

Barras, the explorer, i. 2 Decauville radwav, laving a, ii. 223 De Courcel, Baron, ii. *388, 389, 390, 407 chief of N.sanda, i. 116, 118, 133, 138, 1(J4. 166-168, 172, 180 Defence of river banks, a curious, ii. 135 Defensive measures at a station, i. 376 De Launav, Count, ii. 394, 403 Delbriik, Herr, i. 34

De'-de'-de',

239 Convention, delimitation, ii. 400 Con' eying stores, 155, 182, 210, 211, 214 Copper, ii. 356, 357, 375 Co()uilhat, Lieut., ii. 178. 264. 267, 289

Daily Telegraph and New York Herald Expedition, i. 8, 58 Daly, Judge, New York, i. 36 Dance, a fierce, i. 265, 266 an eccentric, i. 296 Danckelman, Dr., ii. 313 observations, ii. 310, 311, 330-334 Danube, comparison to t'.ie, ii. 9 Dapper, the Dutch Geographer, i. 12 "Dark Continent," the, i. 20, 22, 189 Dar Salaam port, i. 44

Delimitation Convention, ii. 400 Delusions as to African life, 241, 242

Denham,

ii. 385 Depopulation through slavery, i. 96, 97 Desolation, an eftect of war, i. 173 De Soto, the navigator, ii. 374 Destrain. Lieut., ii. 225, 277 Dews to be guarded against, ii. 324 Diamond Rock, i. 112, 113 Diary form of narrative, advantages of, i. 386 Diegos Bay, i. 63 Dieppe, i. 23 Dinner, a factory, i. 72, 73; a first, ii. 283 D'sappearaucc of two men, mysterious, i. 370 Disappointing assistants, ii. 244, 245

INDEX, Disasters at Kimpoko, innuth. ii. 55

ii.

5G

Kwa-

at

;

on Portuguese ships, laxity of, 458, 4G0 Discovery, a shocking!:, ii. 142 of Lake Leopold, i. 434, 435, 43G ; of tlie mouth of the Congo, i. 1 Discussion at the Berlin Conferenc?, ii. 394

T)i.-,cii)line i.

among Europeans, danger

Discussions i. 47

of,

D.stricis and their native chiefs, list of, ii. 198-204:

Distuibances M'ith natives, cause Divers (bird), i. 397, 43G; ii. G Division of Stanley Pool, ii. 2tj3 Diva village, ii. 98

of,

15G

i.

flies,

1.

Dr.iper Islands,

Draughts, cold, 28G, 29G, 327

419 i.

ii.

82. 84

305; dangers

of,

ii.

285,

;

;

;

concejition of comfort, G4 hoes. i. 201

i.

i.

7G;

fr.cto-

;

" Dutch House," the,

i. 72 i. 75, IG hospitality merchants, bankiuptcy of, i.

liouses,

;

structures, supeiiority Dutrieux, M., i. 42, 43

Duty,

strict

calls of,

i.

performance 22

Duveyrier, the explorer, D.\ sentery,

i.

i.

379 287, 403 370, 421, 422

;

;

El

Captain J. G., i. 470, 471, 47G; 225 Elobey Island (Corisco Bay), ii. 231 Embo-End>o, i. 41G Emigrant, questions bv an, ii. 312, 313 Ell Avant, ss.. i. 08-70; 88, 104, 133, 134, iott.

207

;

ii.

of,

of,

i.

i.

at.

i.

84

5()

83, 84

152;

the

385 307, 328 ii.

Parly writers on Congo-land, their ignolauce, i. 3

Vol. II.— 30

144, 145, 154, 190, 19G, 209, 211, 220, 22G, 227, 230, 4G9 ii. 12, 19, 29, 33-35, 57, 58, 60, 87, 105, IIG, 137. 142,233; in ru^t, i. 483; on Stanley Pool, i. 398, :

on the

rejiair,

Drees Frederic, ii. 27G Dr II. a life's, ii. 2GG Drink, ii. 282, 283, 291, 295, 322; in the tropics, i. G5-67 on tlie Lower ( ongo, i. 193,194; temptations to, i. 84 effects of, ii. 251, 252-254 Drowned, a native boy, i. 289 Drov\ning ca>es, i. 48G; ii. 55 Dings for the tropics, ii. 325, 327 Drunibird, the. i. 207 Drum signals, curious, ii. 158 Dual la, i. 273, 274, 27G, 30G, 307 ii. 39-42, 55. 04 Ducks, i. 417 Dudoma, i. 4G Duke Town (Old Cakb.ir). ii. 2."2 Dust film on L.ike Leopold, i. 434 Dutalis, Lieut., i. 41, 43-45 ri( s,

ii.

Eela, wife of Kibibi, i. Egrets, i. 417 KhtU Guineensis, i. 74 ii. 5, 342, 352 Elders of Congo, i. 17 Ele]diants, i. 170, 177, 395. 509 ii. 8, 241, 355, 356; sw'imming, i. 213

sqq.;

Doctors, insufficient Imowledge of climate, ii. 318, 319, 321 Dogs ii. 2 Dom Pedro, King of Congo, i. 17 Donkeys, Teneriffe, i. 225 Dover Cliffs, i. 324, 325, :i9G, 505 Down the stream, going, ii. 1G8

Dutch

East India Company, Edwin Arnold River,

ii.

Dishonesty of the natives, i. 304 Distance accomplished in a year, i. 241 between Vivi and Isan;>ila, i. 189; traversed 'o the Biyerrc, ii. 134

Dragon

465

i.

Kwa

Iviver,

410; under

i.

2G1, 501

Englaiul, i. 26, 28; and Portugal, treafv fur suppression of the slave-trade, i. 15; cause of withdrawal horn the Associai. 3G diffjculties which kei)t it aloof from the Association, i. 34 pedestiiau exercise in, i. 23 English factory at Boma. i. 92 Euje'li. son of "JSIgalyema, i. 30G, 382, 383;

tion,

;

;

ii. 191 Equatorial Africa, past isolation of, ii. 372 the heart of, i. 514 Equator, missioimries at the. i. 496 stati m,

;

;

38, 39, 76. 177, 180, 182, 267, 289, 320 comfort at, ii. 70, 71-73 Equipment of a station, ii. 243 ; of the Expedition, i, 29, 41, 42 ii.

names of Congo-land, i. 2, 3 Escapes from drowniii'j:, i. 487 K^pemnce, ss., i. G8. S3, li'4, 113, 114, 116,

Errors in

Ennihjptnx^ Ihe, i. 103, 151 Etiphurhia, i. 158 ii. 353 Euphrates, comparison to the. ;

i. 401 Europe, arrival in (1878), i. 20 European and African life, ii. 238, 239 European assistants, i. 144 Europeans and colouied men, relative numbers of, i. 285 Europeans, arrival of, at Le'onoldville, 1. 445; arrival of young, 282; finding deliLiht in African life, i 248; frigid towards natives,!. 248, 517; health of, 152; in Africa, ii. 238; inconvenience of having too many, i. 225, 226 indolence of, ii. 219, 224; at the tn.p;cs, i. 85; lesson to, from nature, li. 216; not to bn encouraged in discussion, i. 47; required in Congo-land, (lass of. i. 25 to be isolated, i. 47; why thev succumb, i. 224 Exorcise, best hours for. ii. 3:^6 Exhibition at LeopoKlville, i. 379, 381 Exp dition, African Associaiion's first, i. 3.) French, i. 159 instructions for an Eastern, i. 39 et seq. lost in the bush ;

;

;

;

;

INDEX.

466

number of its oITicprs, i. 67 i. 382 Daily Telegraph and New York Herald, i. 8; stores, ii. 76; strength of the, i. 378 t!tf charged as being mysterious, the present, i. 24 considering its i. 55 character, i. 24 its funds, i. 26, 27 its

nn,

;

,

;

;

;

;

;

the tirit meeting, i. 26. 27; origin, i. 21 the f^ecoud International, i. 44 to Kwihi;

;

Niadi, i. 470, 471, 474, 476 ii. 212 to the Congo, i. 1-7 to the Upper Congo, start of the, 1. 394 (1883) to the Upper Congo, its strength, i. 503; to the Upper ;

;

;

Congo, stores for the,

i.

501, 5ii2

Expeditions, equipment for, i. 41, 42 by Great E.xploration, a slow, i. 233 Britain, ii. 385; in Africa, ii. 373; of the Kwa Kiver, i. 409-416; on the Congo, class of men required for, i. 58 Exports of Boina, i. 98 txpusure fo heat or cold, ii. 315; to niglit to wet, ii, 285 air, ii. 283-285, 308 ;

;

Face-scarring an ornnment, ii. 100, 101 at B 'uny, ii. 231: Factories at B mri, i. 91 at Gaboon, ii. at Elobey Island, ii. 231 231; at Ivi.ssanga, i. 81, 82; at Mussuko, i. 112; at Port i da Lenlia, i. 82, 83; at Nokld, i. 113; barter at, i. 85; for the Upper Congo, ii. 36 J; na'ive trade at, i. 55 on the Congo, i. 63, 64 Factory, coloured help at a, i. 73 a dinner managers, i. 73 stores, at a, i. 72, 73 i. 74, 75; work at a, i. 74 Fair dealing with the natives, i. 170 Faithful officers, ii. 255-279 Famine, a sham, ii. 16, 129; at Bulombo, ;

;

;

;

;

;

ii.

79

6 Fares from Loan;la to Lisbon,!. 445 Fnrquliar Islands, i. 82 Fathomless Toint, i. 81 ii.

;

;

Imd,

i.'LSfj

customs, i. 385 rock, Fetishism, i. 305 ii. Ill Fever, i. 444, 445; at Manvanga, i.

2(10

;

;

i.

89.

90

;

i.

271,

272

:

;

;

;

Flamini, Francesco, meclianician, i. 68, 152, his services, ii. 238, 2 .9, 244, 284, 381 ;

259 Flaudni Island,

i.

253, 254

Flannels, wet, ii. 284, 2S5, 310 Flood, possible, nt lianana, i. 78 precautions against, i. 83 Flotilla of steamers, the expedition, i. 68; ;

68 ii. 324 Food, abundant, i. 257 consumption of, i. 221 for a voyage, ii. 76 for tlie tropics, the best, ii. 294; influence of, on work, i. 154: in the tropics, i. 65, 199, ii. 321, on the Congo, i. 103 322, 323, 324, 329 on the Upper Congo, ii. 10, 15: qnautity consumed daily, ii. 13; scant at IMfwa, i. 295 se;ireity of, i. 436, sqq. tcarcity at Leopoldviile, i. 480; supply stojjped, i. 302, 303; want of variety, i. 211 Foraging, free, i. 222 Forest, a dense, ii. 13; a submerged, i. 443; at Lukolel'. ii. 66, 67; cutting through the, i. 221; Lami L;inkori, i. 390; lo;-t in an vnioxplored. i. 177, 192; its cost,

i.

Fcig^ to be guarded against, ;

:

;

:

30, 91, 92, 93, 97. 98, 114, 215, 341, 353, 374; scenery, ii. 5; of the Lower Congo, i. 88, 89 seen from the coa&t, i. ii.

;

62

Fevers, ii. 283, 310, 322, 328

284,

283-288, 296, 301,

ii.

Figliting,

i. 112 Bolobo, effects of, 60 not to begun, i. 46; power of chiefs

— at

be ra.slily i. 350

Fortifying villages,!. 524 Fowls^ ii. 24< as food, ii. 10 France, i. 26-28; action of, ii. 381-390; n<x cement of the Assoc'ation with, ii. 388; territories of, ii. 4(10, 403, 404 Fiankiucense, ii. 354, 374 ;

354 Firttn, ii. 92 Fiddler's Elbow, Fibres,

;

;

;

Feathers of tropic birds, 11. 354 Fi-rnandez. Senor, i. 15 5 Fernando Po, ii. 231, 232 Ferry at Nselo, ii. 193; Ko-ido, ii. 214; on Lunibamba River, i. 28S on the Gordo;i Bennett, i. 290 traffic at Nsaugn, i. 479 Ferry, M., Jules, ii. 388 Feriying, dangi'rous, ii. J57 Kcrtflo

H

;

Fantail,

Fetisli,

i. 472, 473 Finery of chiefs, i. 202 Fines for bloodshed, i. 524 Fiote law, i. 220 M.S., i. 86 (note) Firejlij, Firt-.", annual, i. 316; destructive of vegetation, i. 94, 180, 197 Fi^ii, ii. 2, 243 presents of, ii. 160 smoke cared, ii. 159 Fish-eagles, i. 397, 436 ii. 6 Fishermen, i. 256; at Manyanga, i. 267; Baswa, ii. 154; Wtnya, ii. 154; Yakui, ii. 125; on Lake Leopold, i. 438, 439, 440; on the Lukanga, ii. 46; Wane' Rukura, ii. 154 Fisher tribes, 154-15.') Fishing hamle:s, h. 113; minnow, i. 262; "Weuya nets, natives makinu', ii. 159 metiiod of, ii. 157, 158 Flag, employment of the Association's, i. 495 import.iiiee of a recognised, i. 37, 38; national, of Congo, i. 17; of the Association, i. 3'!, ii. 42 the choice ot a, i. 35 Flamingoes, ii. 6

Fine, a heavy,

;

Franktown,

i. 476 Free coauuuice on the Congo,

ii,

390-993

INDEX. Freemen, ia Congo-land, essentiality

of,

52 Free State territory, ii. 3G5 Free State not a Belgian colony, i. 51 Free State bonndaries, ii. 401 Freucli. Catholic Mission at Boraa, 1. TOO 1.

;



;

Malameen's, i. 292 Missions in Congo-laud, i. IG tenitory, ii. 3G5 compel the -witlidrawal

expedition,!. 15i»;

flag-,

;

;

;

of the Portuguese, i. 14 traders, i. 02 treaty with Makoko, i. 2'J2 Freve, Sir Bartle, i. 36 Fruit eating, ii. 32G, :-^27. 329 Fruits, i, U)3, 148, 151, 152, 381, 393; ii. 71, 258, 357 Fuel, scarcity on the Kwa, i. 423, 428 Fumu Ntaba, Chief of Batekc, i. 507, 508, 509, 510 Furs, ii. 375 ;

Fyue, Loch, in SeoUand,

i.

;

Gin,

467 ii.

251, 252, 282, 307

rency, i. 193 Gin-drinking natives, Ginper, wild, ii. 358 Giraffe, ii. 241

Giral, a Frencli quartermaster, i. 408 Glasgow Cliamber of Commerce, ii. 383 Glave, Mr., ii. G6, 183, 288 Glover, Sir John, i. 57. 58

Goats, ii. 243 Goat-skins, ii. 354 Gobila, Paiia, Chief of JMswntu, i. 405, 408, 409, 414,507, 510, 511; ii. 14 Gold, ii. 357, 375 Goldsmith, Sir Frederick, ii. 187 Gong, the signal of the, i. 340 Goods for inland trade, superior quahtj' required, i. 311

"Good View

Station,"

i.

Gordon Bennett Kiver,

400

used as cur-

;

202

i.

403 ii. 53 Gordon, General,

505 i.,

290, 293,

3!)0,

;

Gaboon,

mis230; factories, ii. 231 231 Gad-flies, i. 214, 419 Gamaukouo, Chief of Malima, i. 295-300, 380 Gambielc, Chief of Kimpoko, i. 298, 50G ii. 5G Game, i. 205, 206, 213, 222 Gampa, a rival of Bwa-bwa Njali's, i. 308 Ganchu, i. 304, 306, 381, 406, 4o7, 490 ii. 191 Ganclm's Point, i. 408 Gandelav, a Banfunu chief, i. 405, 406, 407, 5i0 Ganges, comparison to the, i. 401 Gankabi, Qu* en of Musye', i. 415, 417, 418, 421, 422, 424-426, 433, 445; ii. 27 Gantienc, i. 507 Ganto village, i. 430 Gardening, season for, i. 381 Gardens, making, i. 379, 4(i9, 500 Gardens, ii. 245 at Equator, ii. 71 at Leopoldville, ii. 52 at Vivi, laying out, what may be grown iu Ceni. 147, 148 tral African, ii. 258 Garrison, imporiauce of a, i. 121 Garrisons of stations, i. 2S5 Gastric fever, i. 213 Gatula, a B.-lobo chief, i. 516, 517, 521, ii. 3 524, 525, 52G, 527 Geographical expeditions inadequate, i. 24 Geology, ii. 209-211, 214; at Lake Mantumbu, ii. 47-48 German Expedition, 1873-75, i. 418; exploration, ii. 386, 387 Germany, 1. 26; action of, ii. 381, 381; formation of a National Committee, i. 31 lectures in, ii. 399 Giagas. invasion see Ajakkas. Gibraltnr, i. 52, 58 Gillis, Mr. Albert (Duke Town), ii. 233 sions,

ii.

;

ii.

;

;

;

;

;

;

letter from,

i:)romised aid of,

Goree,

i.

ii.

ii.

226 (note)

225, 226

57

Government of

tiie

Free

State,

Giandy's, Lieut., E.spedition,

Grang, Lieut., ii. 269

i.

Granville, Earl,

Grass burning,

i.

406, 407

ii.

13

382, 478, 481, 488, 489

ii.

381

118, 180. 197 density of, i. Iti3 Ik ight of the, i. 197; tropical, ii. 301, 302; used as aiui.

;

bushments, i. 161 Grave, the first at Lc'opoldville, ii. 270 Gray, Mr., i. 73 Green snakes, i. 205 Giefuli;e, Mons., i. 43, 45, 49 "Grog," importance ot, i. 193; native fondness for, i. 149 Ground-hog, i. 205 Ground nuis, i. 156, 414 ii. 353 in commerce, ii. 215, 342 Groves or trees a sign of villages, i. 62, 315 Guava, ii. 246 Guiacum, ii. 30, 67 Guibourtia, ii. 353 Guides, i., 164, 171, 181, 182, 184, 410; ii. 3, 28, 69, 153 Guiltlessness, curious wav of showing, i. 373 Guinea-fowl, ii. 8 Gum-copal, ii. 342, 353, 355 trees, ii. 97, 98 ii. 374 Gums, i. 384 ii. 30 Gunbearers, i. 47, 48 Guiqiowder, trade in. i. 75 used iu rejoicing;, i. 373 (iurba Kiver, ii. 131 Guyot Abbe', a missionary, ii. 50, 268 drowned, ii. 55 ;

;

;

;

;

;

:

Habit and nature,

i.

109

Hair, fashion of wearing,

i.

429

INDEX.

468

Haniadi's slavery find cscnp?, i. 260 Haniisens, Capt., i. 382, 47<3, 477, 480, 518, 520; ii. H3(j, 188.191,225, 227, 264; his service.^, ii. 260, 261

Hulzf^ldt, Count, ii. 394 Hvilrobromic acid in ca^es of fever,

451 Narkaicai/. the, 85, 468 llarou. Lieuteu.ut, i. 243, 253, 258, 279, 284, 408, 488 Haite-betst, i. 205, 206 Hathoine, Captaiu, i. 49

Hypochondria,

Havliourat Loimda,

Hawks, Head.

i

i.

411>

prutCL'tion for the,

318, 325

ii.

Heathiiiartors at Vivi, i. 149, 151 Heiltii at Boloho, ii. 184, 185; at Eqviator Station, ii. 74; in the tropics, Dr. Martin's advice, ii. 329 Health-table of stations, ii. 306 Heat and cohl in Cont;o-hind,ii. 314, 315 influence f, ii. 293, 294 Heat, Br..ce"s definitions of, ii. 313; tro;

<

pical, ii. 282 Heliwa, a slave,

Heniv VH. Herd" tracks,

ii.

73

IJenss, Prince, i.

i.

34

177, 183, 201

Hiroii, tlie ss.. i. 474 Herzopr, Dr., i. 34

Henvel, Dr. Van den, ii. 53, 191 Hidrs, li. 375 Hiu'lihmd levels inhabited, ii. .303 " solemnHills seen from the coast, i. 62 looking," i. 95 Hindi Saywa, i. 48 Hippopotami, i. 395, 396, 398, 417, 424; ii. 2, 4, 6, 8, 241, 375; feeding ground, i. 90; sliooting, i. 106; teeth, ii. 354 Hiring men. i. 31 H .(lister, Mr., ii. 272 ;

Holidavs, i. 153, 15 i Holland, i. 26, 28 Holy Isle, a placo of sepulchre, Homesicluiess, i. 225

i.

Honucidal nfticer, a, ii. 55 Honey, ii. 364 Honour of work, ii. 278, 279 Hop JJitters, ii. 318 Hopkins, Caiitain, H.^l. Consul, Horses, the Isle

of,

i.

98

i.

37

Ho-pital at Hnina. ii. 271 Hospilalitv dangers of coast, ii. 282, 28.'] Ho..itiiges left at Ntamo, i. 3U9, 310 Hostile natives, i. 432, 442, 514 ii. 4, 11, ;

36, 78, 111, 113 Hostility, nia.sked,

.337

;

lima and Mfwa, i. 300 House, advice for building

native, at

i.

hisforv of, i. 518 519. 520,521; 522, 524, 525,527; ii.

ii.

Hou.ses at Vivi. in:i|iping s'trs means of defence for, i. 280

Hnard Point, i. 65, 77 Hudson Uiver, comparison

Ma-

;

Ibis,

6,

li.

Iboko,

to,

i.

8 24. 25, 43, 44, 69, 79, et seq.,

ii.

147

;

101

Hutchinson, ^Irs. Margaret, i. 9 Huts, conical, li. 126, 127; formation of native, ii. 103

173-

175, 178-180, 353, 354

swordsmiths, ii. danger at, ii. 87 356 Ibunda, ii. 103 Ichimpi district, i. 115, 121, 161, 163 Idleness of natives, i. 393 Idols, native, i. 199 Ifwe, Chief of Muleke, i. 429 Ignorance of African ciimate, ii. 281, 284 Iguana skin girdles, ii. Ill ;

Iguanas, Ikassa,

2 103, 170

ii.

ii.

Ikelemba River,

ii.

31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36,

37 ii. 77, 78, 344 Ikenge, a chief, ii. 72 Ikeiigo, ii. 29, 30 ;

Ikingi, ii. 98 Ikiraism, ii. Ill

Ikoko,

ii.

47

lkid)i River, ii. 65 Ikulu village, ii. 12, 47 Iineine, ii. 96

Indn.s. foni])arison to

tlie,

Indu.
Inga,

i.

i.

i.

ICO. 227; peak, 173, 221 ii.

i.

ii.

6,

4t)l

315 cataract.?,

353,396; plateau,

i.

30-33, 38-42

Ingvn. Chief of ftlfwa, Inkissi, ii. 192 Falls

212, 213, 355 295, 307 211 river, i. 288,

ii. i.

ii.

;

316, 317. 403, 478; ii. 193 Inkissism, ii. Ill Instructions for eastern ixpcdilions, Instructions framed at Brussels,

28

;

142

173, 175, 176, 177, 179;

;

i.

;

Ingham, Mr. and Mrs.,

323 for,

;

1, 15, 26, 29, 57, 60, 61, 64, 65 Ibanza, ii. 105 a chief of Upoto, ii. 171 the dr. aded, ii. 62, 881 Ibari River, another name for the Kwa, i. 412 Ibingi, ii. 47

Inganda, a,

516

Ibaka. Chief of Bolobo,

i. i.

i.

272

241

;

12

llosjiitable mi.ssion of a station,

ii.

1.

Impali viJl ige, i. 428 Impango, at Gaboon, ii. 230 Impila, i. 292 Imports of Boma, i. 98 Indemnity I'or war, ii. 61 Indian corn, i. 381 India-rubber, ii. 355 plant, i. 192 342, 353, 367, 375 Indolence of ihe natives, i. 193

419

i.

273, 274 Hijphcene guineensis,

i.

i.

45 27,

INDEX. Intcmpcrnncc,

ii. 282, 283, 291, 305, 306, 307, 308, 311, 311). 322, 321)

African

Iiitfiiiatioiiul

A.><soniation,

Association,

Intoiiuitioiial

i.

objects, i. 40 its treaties, position, i. 3.1 ;

i.

ii.

259

its 37, 38 18 ; financial ;

"International Atsociation Africainc," its pnrpose, i. 50 International Association's work at Boraa, 1(11

i.

;

44 Intoxicant?, abuse

of,

ii.

251,

252, 253,

254 Irebu, ii. 21, 22, 23, 24. 25, 2G, 38, 42, 43, swordsniith.<, ii. 350 44, 45, 09, 3.")4 warriors, ii. 10 ;

Irinj^i,

ii. 98",

171

Iron, ii. 350; houses of native chiefs at C.ilabar, ii. 233; luannfaetuies of Yalulinia,

i.

Ill;

ktores,

U\ira, ii 304 Ironstone, ii. 07

at

;

i.

Lake

147; works of

M aitumba,

ii.

47, 48

Irrawaddy, comparison to the, Irnngu, ii. 127, 132 Isanga Kiver, ii. 315 Isangi town, ii. 10.)

i.

;

;

:

;

243, 2 14; clearing the camp, i founding a station at, i, 283 garrison at, i. 285; cataract, i. 181, 184; falls, i. 229 Islands of the Congo, i. 110, 249, 389, 515, 510; ii. 14, 30, 38, 05, 97, 153 Islands uninhabitable, i. S2 Isombo, ii. 125 Itaka, ii. 152 Itawa, Eastern, ii. 302 Itiniba village, i. 510

248

i. ;

;

Itimhiri River,

352 Itumba, Itumbi,

i. i.

518 40;

ii.

ii.

10.',

110, 112, 131, 345,

57, CO, 01

and Ngaiyema,

idenlity of, i. 304 Ituuzinia lapids. i. 25-, 257 luka of Lukolela, ii. 14, 48, 08, 177 Itsc

lunga,

lyumbi,

ii.

i.

383,384; tiading, suec* i. 305

ii.

11, 12;

323,333,390;

s.s

ii.

mountain, 192,341

321, 322.

i.

Jaggas, the, invasion see Ajakk-as. Janssen. Lieut., i. 283, 407, 4;H), 507 ii. 27, 50; drowned, ii. 55; his services, :

;

208

Jafroplie purgans, ii. 3.;S Jays, i. 207, 430 Jealousy of a chief, i. 522, 52.5

Jetta Waii, i. 45 Jeune A/ricaine, the launch, i. 08. 141, 190 Jiwe-la-Singa, i. 4.3, 40 Joao II.. King of Portugal, i. 1 Johnston, IMr. H. H., i.']02 Jolly Captain (ss. Kui^en.ho), ii. 233, 230 Journeys, time occupied in, i. 191 Jub River, i 58 Jung, letter to Mr. Albert, i. 29 Jungle, cutting through the, i. 221

Kabinda

;

;

in,

of Xgalyema through, lyenzi. ii. 209

401

Isangila, i. 155, 100, 105, 107, 171, 175, ii. 214, 215, 298, 181, 182, 184, 185, ISO 339, 309. 373, 3.':;2, 440, 471, 474, 470, 478, 489, 513;' chiefs, i. 184, 185; cuinp at, i. 239 connatives, i. 237 veying wagons ai.d stoies to, i. 240 stores at, i. 242 staff at, i. 242 sceneiy at,

trading

ii.

International cohesion, ii. 379 coinniissioii, ii. 4UG; Expedition, tlie secunJ, i.

401)

98

Ivory, ii. 304, 375; purchase of, i. 380; sold by AVatwa, ii. 48; trade, the eentie trade at Laiiga-I>anga, of tlie, ii. 2 ii. 102; trade, Congo, ii. 3.")4. ;-i.55, :i50 trade at Nganza, ii. 99 traders, IJaleke', i. 294; traders, character of. i. 387; traders, intrigues of. i. 319, 320, 321; trading chiefs^ wealth of. i. 310, 311 ;

;

;

;

i.

14, 31

cask- makers, i. 74 Kubindas, i. 14ii, 149, 153, 15S, 159 KaiK-a Sanda, i 103 Kaiohandi, i. 103 IvHllina, Lieut., i. 485, 492 Poiut, 395, 390, 487 Kalubu, i. 201 Kaluln Falls, lava at, ii 211 Kamolomh), a chief, i. 513 Kapita, a Vivi chief, i. 129 ;

Karema,

i. 42, 44; lake, slave-stealers, ii. 144

i.

i.

353,

37; chief of

Kasongo, ii. 300 falls, ii. 300 Kaston, Mr. John A., ii. 398, 400 Kawendi, ii. 303 Kcmeii Island. 418, 419 ;

Kerdvck and Khaltan,

i.

Pincoft', Messrs.,

i.

31

251

Khamis, Sergeant, i. 519, 523 Khonzo, i, 238 Ikulu Hill. i. 354 ;

;

Plain,

187 Kibonda, i. 260 Kiburuga, chief of s^ave-stealers, ii. 144 Kiki stieam, i. 322 Ki-Kongo. i. 142 Kilanga, i. 315 " ivilliiig tlie road," i. 314 Kilolo Point, i. 248. 249 Kimbangu, i. 393. 397, 405, 477; ii. 302 chiefs, i. 388 Kimbanza Is and, i. 200. 261, 263 Kimbenza village, ii. 207 Kimpahimpa, a chief, i. 323, 332, 490 Kiini>unzu, i. 172 Kinipe. a chief, i. 490 Kinipemba, ii. 207 i.

;

3,

INDEX.

470 Kimpoko,

Kwanza

397, 477, 488; ii. 51, 302; troubles at, ii. 504, 505, 50G

i.

station,

i.

i.

454

11, 12,

277; expedition -to river, the, i. 470, 471, 474, 476 ii. 212 Upper, i. i. 256, 257, 403; ii. 214, 225; 477

5G

i.

489;

ii.

;

;

Kiiidolo,

303, 397

i.

see Leopold. II. Kiukanza, ii. "215 Kiuduta, i. 289 mountains, 1. 390 Kingani Kiver, i. 4i), 58 Kingdom of the Congo," Tiqafetta's book,

King Leopokl

:

La BeJtjique, ss. see Belgique. Labour, advantage of human, ii. 93, 94 heroes of, ii. 240 Lacustrine Kamoloudo River, ii. 3(j0 Lady Alice Rapids, i. 318 Lagos, ii. 236 Laird Macgregor, ii. 385 Lake Bangweolo, ii. 358, 359 Lake Leopold It., i. 70, 481, 501 ii. 27, 48 circumnavigated, i. 443 description or, 444 di;iCovery of, i. 434, 4o5, i. 443, 436 tishurmeu, i. 438. 439, 440 Lakes,— IMantundja, ii. 27, 46, 47. 314, 354 Muta-Nzige, ii. 358; Tanganika, i. 7, 20, 35, 37, 40, 41, 43, 44, 46; ii. 359, 363 Lakes, native detinition of, ii. 27 Lama-Lankori, fonst ridge, i. 390; hill, i. 351 Lamborel, Captain, i. 43 :

;

;

'.'

9' i.

ii. i. 397 Kinkela Ndunga, a chief, i. 1C5 Kinkela-Nku, a chief, i. 105 Kinsemho .steamer, ii. 228 Kinsende', i. 318

Kingfishprs,

Kinshassa,

i.

405, 504

;

;

;

250, 375, S82, 393, 397, 477, ii. 51, 185, 289, 302, 305, 319,

;

Kint.hassa chiefs, i. 388 Kinswangu, a chief, i. 490 i. 318, 340, 352, 375, 377, 3S2, 391, 392, 393, 397, 479, 486, 495, 498 ii. 20, 2tJ, 28, 29, 302; cataiart, i. 352,

Kintamn.

:

389

;

;

;

357

;

chiefs,

number

the chief:^, i. 490 Kintari forest mount, Kinzila, ii. 193 Kinzorc, i. 315

of,

i.

3::0

i.

;

teething

Land

352

i.

145,

159,

19l^

209 Kirkhoven, Mens ii. 225 Kissanga, i. 81, 82, 85

1

231

;

station, i.

ii.

291

259, 2G0 von, li. 41)7

Kusserow, Herr Kutimipuku, i. 519 Kuvoko, i. 250 camp. i. 253 Kwa,ii.401; river, i. 409-416, 511 ii. 30, de>:cription of the river, i. 431, 50, 344 432,433; diticient colours of tlie river, i. 419 Kwamouth, ii. 185; .station, ii. 55, 50^ ;

;

;

Kwango 412

lliver,

i.

another

name

for

353

;

women

li.

ii.

399

La

;

Islam],

d. 22, 69, 100,

100 liangenburg. Prince Hohenlohe,

Kiynnzi beer, i. 4(lS Kizalu Hill, ii. 207 Kokoro, son of ftlata Bwyki, ii. 86, 173, 174 recognises his sun a thief, ii. 174 Kondo Ferry, ii. 214 Konko, an ivoiy trading chief, i. 370, 371 Kruboys, i. 31, 73 Krumaners, i. 31 Krupp gun, astoniihing the natives, ii. 63 Kubaba, i. 48 Kudu, i. 126, 206 Kulu, Banzi, i. 201 Kulu natives, i. 210 i.

Langa-Langa, of,

Kisungwa of Mklmbwete, i. 1G5 Kitabi, whites in distress at, i. 476 Kitalalo, 1. 4G Kites, i. 207 Kiubi, a chief of Zinga, i. 315

Kunzu

162; fertility of the.

i.

:

,

Kmia,

cultivated,

186; ii. 211; instructions regarding the purchase of, i. 27 higli rent for, i. J 38 Landana, ii. 229 Landers, ii. 385 Landolphia Florida, i. 192 ii. 5, 353 ;

Kion/o plateau, ii. 21G Kiikbright, Mr. John,

i.

River,

Kwilu-Niadi,

;

the

Kwa,

Plate, comparison to the, i. •lOl Latrobe, Mr., »>f Baltimore, i. 3G Lava at Kalulu Falls, ii. 211 Laws of the Bangola, ii. 179 Lawion-Lufini River, i. 509, 512, 513;

345 Lectures on Africa, 399 Leehumwa, i. 46

i.

25

in

:

Germanv,

Lehrman, Mens., i. 471 ii. 212, 277 Lema, i. 393, 397 cliiefs, 388 Leopard skins, ii. 354 Le'upold II., King of the Belgians,

ii.

ii.

;

i.

;

22, 28, 33, 38, 39, 43

;

ii.

i.

21,

237, 402, *07

Lc'opold II. Lake: see Lake Leopold hill, i. 354, 389, 391, 495, 496 ii. 189, 191 Leopold Kiver, ii. 359 Leopoldville. i. 149, 408, 442, 445. 469, 477. 488, 513; ii. 20, 38, 50, 51, 52, 53, 55, 56, .57, 73, 288, 289, 290, 298, 304, 305, 319. 339, 343, 357; founding of. i. 357. 370; erecting a block house at, i. 375, 376; built, i. 379; trading at, i. 380, 383, 384; naming the station, i. description of, i. 388, 38:> 386 the neighi ouring natives, i. 391; no food at, i. 478, 479, 480 neglecteil state of, i. 481, 482, 4b3; resignation of its chief, i. 490; difficulty with natives at, i. 491, ;

;

;

;

;

INDEX. 492, 493, 43 1 ; treaty with natives at, i. 495 the entrepot oi the Upper Congo, ;

498,500; markei, i. 500; liourishiiig, 186; a promising farewell at, ii. 189, 191 first grave at, li. 270 Lesseps, Count de, i. 35 Le Slanleij. stern-wljceler, ii. 225, 227 from (Jeneial Saiiford, i. 30; to Letters, Lieut Cambier from Stanley, i. 39 to Captain Popeliii, i. 45 to Col. Straueli, i. 52, 151-153. 189-194; to tiic Comitii, i. 283 to the President of tl.e Comite, ii. 224 Lettuces see Vegetables. i.

ii.

;



;

;

;

:

Levy

Hills, the. ii. 11 Liberia, ii, 379-382

Lokinga Mountains, ii. 361 Lokulu River, ii. 361

London correspondence,

i.

25

Missionary

;

Society, i, 40 Long " of cloth, a, i. 193 Long Reach, i. 240, 245, 247

"

Longevity, instances of, i. 310 Lopez, Cape, i. 73 Lopez, Duarto, the explorer, i. 1, extraordinary descrij^tiou by, i. 3 L'^sanswe Mountains, ii. 361 Lost in the forest, i. 177 Lounging, i. 22, 23

2, .18

;

Low-wa River, ii. 358, 359 Luahiba, i. 233 jiver, indentical with the Congo, i. 8 Lualla River, i. 403 Luama River, ii. 359 Luamba, a headman of IMauyanga, i. 268 Lunpula River, identical with the Congo, ;

Liberty, the use of, i. 22, 23 Licentiousness, ii. 253 Liebrechts, Lieut., ii. 184, 277 ii. 288, 289 Life, the [)roper use of, i. 84, 85 on the Congo, ii. 248 stupid iudilfcrence to, ;

;

;

ii.

471

321

i.

8.

Lightning stone, i. 90 Lifjnum vitx, ii. 374

Luazaza River, i. 182, 184 Luban.ba River, 288, 318, 403

liikona River: see Isunga. Likuba River, another name for Ikuba,

Luliansenzi River, ii. 361 Lubilash River, ii. 109 ii. 348. 351 Lubiranzi River, ii. 1(;9. 344, 315, 318 Lubunga, Chief of Upoto, ii. 171 Lucage' River see Kwilu. Luemba, Chief of Kinsembe', i. 318 Luemme' River, i. 488 Lueuda River, i. 180, 222, 226; bridge across the, i. 187 Lufu River, i. 105, 106, 115. 116, 120, 126, 135,115, 162, 166, 172,403; ii. 215, 359; valley, i. 186

ii.

185, 345 Liiubu Li Nzambi,

i. 00 Limes, ii. 246 Limit of navigation from the sea, i. 116 Lindi branch of Cliofu River, ii. 153 Lindner, Mr., i. 277, 278, 283, 286, 311, 447 Lingenji village, ii. 57, 59 Lingeuji, a boy trader, i. 137, 518, 520 Lingster Nsakala, the, i. 116, 123 " Lingster "traders, i. 387 Lion and buflalo tight, .i. 51 Lions, i. 509; ii. 241 Lion skins, ii. 354 " Liejuoriug-up," ii. 253 Lira River, ii. 358, 359 Little Rnpid Camp, i. 251 Liverpool, Chamber of Comnn rce, ii. 383; value of African products, ii. 368, 369 Live stock, i. 150 Liviui, i. 416

Livingstone, Dr., last journey, i. 7 search his opinion is found, i. 41 for, i. 13, 58 of the Congo, i. 101 liis l.ead-man iSiisi description of Charabezi, ii. (see Susi) 361, 362; w.>rks, ii. 11, 381, 385 Livingstone Cataracts, i. 160 Falls, i. 102 ;

;

;

;

;

;

ii.

339

Inland Congo Mission, i. 490 185, 214, 299 River, i. Loa 135, 161, 162, 209, 322, 403; bridge over tiie, i. 2l)l valley, i. 12o, 127, 172, 186, 196, 197 Loaiiga, Dr. Pescluiel-Locche's expedition

Livitiirstone

;

ii.

;

to,

i.

376

Lciango,

ii.

229

Log Towers,

i.

35o

;

ii.

225

;

:

Lufwenkeuya,

206

i.

Lugumiiila, Vizier of Ibaka, 2, 04 Luigi River, ii. 359

Luima

valley,

Luindi Riv(

i.

522, 527

;

ii.

214 359 403 ii. 217 ii.

r, ii.

Luizi River, i. Lukanga River,

Lukunga.

i.

;

ii.

200;

21, 27, 28, 45, 40, 299; valley, ii.

ii.

344 212,

213, 214

Lukcbu, branch of Chofn River, Lukolela,

ii.

ii.

153

13, 14. 15. 16, 21, 48, 49, 50,

05, 66, 07, 183, 288,

354

IMonsienr, suicide of, i. 489 Lukuga River see Luindi. Lukuluzi River, i. 312 Lulu River, i. 180, 222, 22.^, 127, 228, 322, 403; ii. 193; bridge across the, i. 187 Lulungu River, ii. 32, 37, 76, 77, 78, 314, Lnk.'sic,

:

351

Lumami, Chief of Wane' river,

ii.

Sironga,

ii.

157

;

169, 348, 359

Lunioiizo River, i. 403; ii. 214 Lusalla of iMkimbwete, i. 165, 199 Lusengo, ii. 173 Lute e. Chief of Banza Lungu, i. 218, 219, 220, 382

;

ii.

207, 208

INDEX.

472

Mantu beer, i. 512 Mantumba Lak.-, ii.

Luzalla Kindunga, a chief, i. Ifi5 Lynch law in Congo-land, ii. 194

;

Manvanga,

Mabengu mountain, ISlaboko village,

Mahruki, 306 Mitbula,

Miihwa

little,

ii. i.

391

i.

4G

178

i.

273, 274, 27G, 277

;

233

ii.

25, 2G;

ii.

Mwaka

of Mkimbwete, 30, G7, 374

ii.

i.

1G5

Mahoney," INIr. Frank, i. 159 Maize, ii. 357, 375 MaUald, an ivory factor, i. 295 a chief of Ntamo, i. 30G, 392. 490 ii. 191 Makanga. a ciuef of Zinga, i. 315 Mak-n-a Miinguba, i. 20G, 208, 209, 213215", 218,221 Makoko of Usansi, i. 18; Chief of Mbe' cedes teirit.iry to France, i. 292, 293, 298, 323, 332, 343, 507, 508, 326-331 ii. 192 Makoku's sword, i. 332 Makidvuru, a chief of Nganza, ii. 99 Makula, 1.112 IMaknta, i. 225 Makweta, .a chief, i. 165 Ma!afn, a fee for a judge, ii. 44; native name for palm wine, i. 295 Ma'aiiicen, a Sene-al sergeant, i. 251, 292, 293, 297, 299, 37.5, 408 304, 305, 317 IMalaria, ii. 287 Malc'le, a chief, i. 165 Malet, Sir Edward, ii. 393, 396, 298, 399 Malima. i. 295, 509; ii. 3, 302 Malingering, ii. 246, 247 i. 379 Mamballa, i. 82 3Iambwt' country, i. 8 ii. 364 plateau, ii. 362 jNIanagers of factories, i. 73 Manchester correspondence, i. 25 produce, Chamber of Commerce, ii. 383 i. 30 Manga, i. 518, 519, 520, 525 ii. 57, 58, 60,61 Maiigi, a chief of Itimbi, ii. 2 Mangoes at Gaboon, ii. 231 Congo, ii. 246 ;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

Mnngombo,

chief of Irebu,

ii.

20, 21, 22, 23,

42-45 Mangrove, i. 77 24, 25, 26.

IManguru, of Bclobo, Maui villnge. ii. 207 Manioc, ii. 357

ii.

>

;

;

;

Marriage celebration at Kintamo, Marseilles, i. 21

i.

377

Martinson, Martin, Danish sailor, i. 71, 107, 208, 212 Ma-sikamba, i. 40-44, 46 Masikn of Masanda, i. 165 Massabe', i. 488 boundary, ii. 401 Massacre, threatened with, i. 304 a horrible sacrificial, ii. 180-182 Massala, the Lingster, i. 123, 132, 133, 135, 136, IGl, shooting of, i. 471, 472 Massari, Siguor, ii. 225 Massassa, i. 315 ]Mata Bwyki of Baugala, ii. 80-82, 84, 85, 87, 89, 173, 178 Ma-taddi Nzazzi, i. 90 Mataddi Point, i. 115 Matako (brass rods), ii. 22 Matanga, a chief, i. 165 IMatoma's village, i. 488 Mavangu, a chief, i. 165 jNIaweudje, ii. 138 Maxwell, Captain, i. 82, 86, 112 Mntiflm-er (tlie) in 1620, ii. 379 ;

;

Mballa, a i.

;

215

;

;

:

18;

Cliissanga, i. 474 ]Maidoads, weight of, i. 242, 346 Manswala, a chief, i. 490 ii. 191 ii.

;

]Mayomba see Myumba. :Mayumba Bav, i. 114, 115, 120

2

Manipandju of Loango,

Mauteka.

;

;

;

43r4.=)

ii.

market, incident at. i. 281 ei'ectiug tiie station at, i. 279 support of ihc t-taiiim, intended a.s a central
Mackenzie, Dr (Duke Town),

Mahogany,

267, 208, 269, 270, 271, 375, 377, 381, 422, 44.5, 476, 477, 478, 489, 513 ii 21 1, 287, 289, 292, 298, 301, 320, 339,370; contract with the chief, i. 278, 279; ;

41G

jMadiera. i. 400, 4G1 IVIati I l^land, i. 44 JIagwala, a chief of Irebu,

IM i^wiile,

512

;

;

410, 417

i.

viilaije,

70,

i.

village, 511,

27, 46, 47. 344, 354 191, 192, 212, 2i0, 266,

chief of

cliief,

i.

490

3Ibama Hill, i. 347 Mbangu, i. 518

Mbe

district,

Mbelo,

i.

315

i. ;

Mbembe-Kissa,

507, 509-513 ii. i.

210 248

;

ii.

192

INDEX. of Mata Bwyki, ii. 173 i. 421-42i; liver, L 410-411; 344 Mbika, River, 1. 287, 403 Mbimbi, ii. 193, 194, 207

Mbembe, son Mbil.e,

Mbomu

see

:

Missions in ii.

ii.

135

lusuries,

;

ii.

ttations,

;

ii.

363

i. i.

station,

ii.

40 401

;

ii.

;

78,

ii.

185

49, 50, 58, 60, 61, 65,

67-69, 80, 1S2, 345

Melons

see Fiuit.-

:

]\Iemorial stones of the Portuguese, i. 14 Jlen.ory, a good, i. 297 Men for the expedition, hiring, i. 31 ]Men-at-arms iit Vivi, i. 130 Men-of-war at Tonta da Lenlia, i. 85 Merchants on the Congo, their character, i. 32 Meri, another name for Welle River, MeroUa, Father, explor, r, i. 2 Ids description of the great river, i. 4, 18 Mctc, a cliiet; i. 105 Meteorological tables, ii. 330-338; obser:

vations, ii. 312 Mfini River, i. 410, 411, 419, 421, 422,424

251, 294, 295, 300, 478, 509

;

;

ii.

802

Mganuaism, Mfiaugila, plateau,

i.

ii.

ii.

;

chiefs,

i.

202

;

21(3

name for Welle River. 287, 304, 310, 311, 317, 319 Mickic, Mr., ii. 225 "Middl men " traders, i. 387 Mikeiie River, i. 519 ii. 65 Miani, another

Miasma,

ii.

;

Mikene'-Alima Rivt r, ii. 345 hiefs, i. 388 Mikunga, i. 393, 397 Mileage of jonrneys, i. 190, 191 Milk unobtiiinabie, ii. 322 read, i. 431 Millet, ii. 357 Minerals, ii. 356 IMinnow fishing, i. 262 Mirambo, a faithful rss, i. 184 Mirando, King of Urambo, i. 39, 40 ;

Bapti.-t,

225

518;

i.

i.

519

skins, ii. 354 islands, i. 82

Monkeys,

ii.

6,

8

IMouotony of scenery,

ii. 5 17 Moiltiero, Juachim. i. 102 Moore, Mr. A. H.. i. 145, 159, 196, 209 Morgan, U.S. Seuidor, i. 36 Morton & Co., Francis, London, i. 145 i.

i. 422 422 Mountain and maritime region, area of, ii. 343 IMountainous region of the Congo, ii. 341 Mountains, i. h90, 391 Mowa, i. 287, 315, 469 Mpa, ii. 98 Mpagassa, 209, 210 River, i. 164, 201 204

nets,

Mo.*quitocs,

;

ii.

i.

286, 287. 311, 312, 316,

i.

207, 210 i. 321, 322, 403; a

Mpangi,

Mpangu,

49G

:

;

breakdown

i.

Mpamba

Mission, a pretty, station, ii. 212, 213; children, ii. 213; at Banza Manteka, (French; ii. 214; at Pallaballa, ii. 217 at Landa'a, ii. 229 i.t Gaboon, ii. 231

233

524

i.

57; a chief,

ii.

480 ]\Tpama, an erroneous name,

;

ii-

515

Monkey

at,

;

Cretk Town (Calab.ir),

i.

fines for bloodshed,

Mongo,

445

;

:

villages,

Monanga, a chief of Z n<_'a, i. 315, 316 Monet, Mons., ii. 224, 277 Money carried by an expedition, i. 48

Mpalangii.

I

icpulsed l>y native.-, i. Roman Catholic, repulsed by the natives, i. 308, 445 at Le'opoldville, ;

Mompurengi

;

Missioniiries misrepresenting the traders,

100 251

:

Mpakambendi,

<

;

295

for the river, 7 Moffat, Dr., ii. 385 Mohindn River, ii. 32, 344 see Ikelembo. Mokulu Town, ii. 115-119, 124, 133 Mombas-a Creek, i. 58 Mompara, i. 40, 42

Mosquito

Ill

179, 201, 210

ii.

i.

IMontes Quemados,

27 i.

drink,

Moenzi Nzaddi, native name

Mediterranean, i. 28 Meeting at the Royal Talace, Brussels, i. 26

at

of Usindi,

Moderafon in food and Moeni Kheii, i. 42

licinc

i.

Mivongo

Calholic,

50

ii.

377

ii.

Missongo missionary 152

i.

i.

Roman

Mississippi, compiirison to, 374, 375

men, i. 199, 200 "Medicine lo make wealth grow," ii. 28 IMedicines for the tropics, ii. 325, 327

i.

185

ii.

Missionary Society, London,

247

Mfwa,

etiorts.

13, 16; 100; con-

11,

i.

Boma,

at

;

Missionary

enterpri.<e,

Mbutclii. i. 422 Jltats. tinned, ii. 322 Medical attendance,

ii.

Congo-land,

French Catholic,

lending, i. 496, 497; ii. 50 at Ltopoldville,

Boma.

Mbundi Afiuida rapids, i. 253 Blburra, native name for Congo,

Me

473

Njrulu, i.

i.

i.

3

175, 179, 181

103

ii.

208, 209, 211

Mpika, a chief of 44, 45; villii-e,

Irel)U. li.

ii.

25, 26, 42, 43,

207

Mpioga

River, ii. 211 Mpissa, ii. 171 IMpokwn, i. 46 Mpcjzo River, i. 403 M[)und)U market, n. 2 Mpumu Ntaba, i. 407, 408 Mputu Creek, i. 04 Mpwapwa, i. 49

;

of

Mbe,

i.

18

INDEX.

474

i. 165 Msampalii, i. 288 uarrows, i. 318 Msemie, the suiJe, ii., 14, 3'^ 4U, 44 Mswata, i. 31)8, 3UI), 405-409, 422, 43G, 445, 481, 507, SOJ ii. 2G, 5 J, 51, 55, 302 growth (if, i. 511 Mtfsa of Uj^anda, i. 291

Mpwele'le,

:

;

Mub.iiiQ;ii,

ii.

;

215

53, 54;

i.

workmen, i. 146, 149; stories of white man, i. 184; tracks, i. 192;

tlie

in-

193; fondness of gin, i. 202; friendliness, i. 254; hostility aroused at Malima and Mfwa, i. 300 /dishonesty, inebriety, i. 315 i. 304 idleness, i. 393 experience of huropean.s, i. 517 cliiefs, wealth of, li. 2, 3; definition of rivers and lakes, ii. 27 superstitions, ii. 28, 29 surprise at steamers, ii. 12, 16, 29, 105 minufacture of pottery, ii. 48; wars, ^ligllt pruvofiatiou of, ii. 62; visitors at dolence,

i.

;

;

;

Mubi, a chief of Ntamo,

i.

306, 490

;

ii.

191

Mud

customs not to be changed,

;

alive with crabs,

Muijubii, a chief,

i.

Mukana,

i.

villugc,

Miikouilokwa,

77

i.

513 432: Puiut,

254, 255

i.

46

i.

Mukoss liiver, i. 288, 289 Mukuku, cliief of Yambinga.

ii.

107-109

Miileke -listrict, i. 423, 429 Muller, Moils., i. 73

Muluangu,

ii.

214

ii. 207 Mundek', meaning a white, i. 132 Masuiia plains, i. 390 Mungala, i. 286 Mungawa, a chief, ii. 14, 48 Mungolo, i. 518 ii. 57, 59 Miuiroe, Mr. J. (Duke Town), ii. 233 Miinster, Count, ii. 384

Miilwassi Uiver,

;

;

Roderick,

i. 7 489 of two men at Bolobo, i. 516, 517, 523; compensation for, i. 525, 527 Musciivy ducks, ii. 13 Mushirniigos, i. 83 Musianga-iand, ii. 109 Mnssuko, i. 74, 96, 105, 108. 112, 113, 133, 141, 144, 145, 449; ii. 302 Musye, i. 415, 419-422 Munono, i. 431, 432, 444 Muta-Nzige Lalce, ii. 358 Mutembo,' ii. 91, 1>4, 96, 111 Mutumba village, i. 433 Muvanga, i. 163 Muzouzila, i. 162, 164, 166, 172, 186 MvuLi, a chief ot Zinga, i. 315, 316 INlvnzi streamlet, i 173 Mwana Mund. le, i. 380 Mwekwanga, a chief, i, 519, 520, 525 ]M-\vembe, ii. 214 Mwcru Lake, i. 8; ii. 340, 360 IMwitikirn, i. 46 Mvombi, chief of Bumba, ii. 104 Myrrli, ii. 354, 374 Mystification, cliarge on the expedition, i. 55 Myumba, ii. 229

iMiircliison, Sir

Murder, a rumour

of,

i,

;

Nachtigal, Dr., i. 34, 36 ii. 385 Nakussa, a hea


Le'opoldville, influence of, ii. 73; roads, 104; drum signals, ii. 158; chiefs and districts, list of, ii. 198-20 1; worker.-, i. 203; chiefs, tornis of treaties with, ii. ii.

195, 196, 197, 205, 206; enlistment for transport, ii. 225; chiefs at Calabar, iron houses of, ii. 233; villages, healthy sites of, ii. 302, 303 eagerness for trade, ii. 367 chiefs, treaties wiih, ii. 379, 380 chiefs, soothing, i. 490, 491 roads, i. 189; welcome, a happy, ii. 19; how to trade M'itli, i. 99, 100; surprise at pad work, i. 143, 144; liable to conceive suspicion, i. 169, 170 fair d> aling with the, i. 170; visiting Vivi, i. 189; loo rich to work, i. 193; European frigid towards, i. 248 doubtful at JNIanyanga, ;

;

;

;

;

i.

i.

dangers of rupture witu th

269 314; ;

Mfsva,

394;

refusing to attack us,

374

i.

hostile,

36, 78,

111,

;

i.

companionable, 432, 442, 514;

113;

•,

36.J

i.

i.

392,

11, feasibility of trade ii.

4,

463; friendly welcnue from, i. with, i. 495; ii. 48; at Le'opoldville, difficulty with, i. 491494 difficulties of quarrels with, i. 523, 524, 526 mercantile knowledge among, ii. 22, 23; war d:in''e of, ii. 35; praising their villnges, ii. 30 expressionless, ii. 68; timid, ii. 103, 127; skilful «oikruansliip of, ii. 123; iinf(prtuaate,ii. 140 thieving, ii. 84, 173, 174; at war, ii. 23 -25 Nature and Habit, i. 199 Kavltiation, Actes de, ii. 396, 397 Navigation of the Ccmtro, i. 85, 86, 113, 114, 116; ii. 339, 340, 346, 366; Lubilasli, ii. 169; Lumani, ii. 169 Nehuvila, chief of Kinshassa, i. 250, 298, 375 with,

i.

481;

treaties

;

;

:

;

Ndambi Mbongo,

i.

165,

175,

180,

231,

234 natives, i. 237 Ndinga, chief of Bolombo, ii. 84 Ndobo village, ii. 103 Ndu Kumbi, i. 430 Ndua, i. 429, 430 Ndunga, i. 265, 269; ii. 212; dancing,!. mountains, i. 261 rapids, i. 265, 266 262, 264 266 Negotiations at Ntamo, coast of, i. 310; ;

;

;

475

INDEX. with Ngalyema, difficult, i. 308. 309 at Usansi, i. 327-331 tedious with Afiicuut:, for peace at for peace, ii. 44, 15 i, 429

Nkongolo, station

;

Nlmkii

;

;

;

Eol(jbo,

Nepro

ii.

60, 61

River,

NeuipHiiiliu, a chief,

Nepiiko

forming

a,

i.

54

New

i.

165

New

ii.

York Herald and Daily Telegrapli

Expedition,

58

8,

i.

i'ork, brancli society at,

Nezan, a

chief,

i.

i.

36

liiver,

Ngalyema,

212

ii.

Cliief of

;

i.

;

;

ii.

i.

;

;

;

;

;

Niadi, meaning a river, i. 2 Niemai), Heri', i. 450 Niger, comparison to the, i. 401

Night

air,

Nile, the, ii. 8

exposure to, ii. 283-285, 308 comparison to the, i. 401 8

i.

;

Nilis, Lieutenant, i. 382, 409 Njali, meaning a river, i. 2 Nju<;u, uei)hew of Mata Bwyki,

Nkamampn, Nkenge 260 i.

the,

Nkenke

:

i.

river,

187

i, :

^ee

182,

183

;

Nutmeg, ii. 358 Nyadi, meaning a

river,

Nyam-Nyam country,

ii.

1.

ii.

173-

;

plain,

Lubamba i.

165

250

2

>yaugwe', i. S, 20, 40, 43, 216; ii. 340, Arabs, ii. 142 falls, ii. 360 359, 360 Nyassa Lake, i. 7 Nyongena Mountain, i. 179, 187. 223, 227, 229, 234 Nyungu, i. 40, 43 Nzabi, i. 287 Nzaddi, meaning a river, i. 2 ;

;

meaning a

Nzambi (God),

ii.

river, i. 2 44 rapids, ;

i.

ii.

255-257 207

Objects of the Berlin Conference, ii. 393 Ocean steamers, on the Con^o, i. 85, 86 Officer, a homicidal, ii. 55 of the expedition, Officers at Vivi, i. 159 noble, ii. 255-279 their number, i. 67 Ogowai River, i. 159, 231, 233, 234 ;

;

Nkingi, a chief,

i.

351

Nzari, meaning a river, i. 2 Nzungi, a village of carriers,

165 i.

Ntanio,i. 303, 307-311 Ntolulu, a chief, i. 165 Ntombi's dark ravine, i. 245 cove, Ntonibo-a-Langa, i. 200. 201 Lukuti grove, ii. 214 Lukuti, ii. 215, 299 IMtaka, i. 267, 269 Nu-ampozo River, i. 120, 128

Nzali, ;

175 a chief,

;

;

;

192 433 River, i. 444 ii. 344 Ngandu, a chief, i. 165, 171-173 Nganza, ii. 99 Ngete, i. 428 Ngingiri River, another name for Itimbiri. Ngoma, i. 288, 234-236, 238; ii. 192; mountain, i. 179, 181-183, 229, 230; rapids, i. 183 jwint, i. 187, 223, 229 village, ii. 207 Ngoma's village, i. 325, 832 Ngonibc', an erroneous name, i. 3 a Chief of Mganjiila, i. 165 ii. 17, 18, 21, 25, 49, 183, 207 Ngonibi, 194, 320 Ngoyo, i, 73, 261-263 Ngufu-Mpanda of Banza ?ombo, i. 129 ;

ii.

;

;

493

river,

;

Ntam\

250, 300. 3U3, 304-307, 308, 309, 318-320, 337, 344, 348-350, 377, 372, 381-383, 387, 392, 490, 492, 493. 508; ii. 52, 189-191 in arnjs, i. 332-336; and Eula Matari, his character, i. 3.")8 wily stratai. 357 gems of, i. 358, 359 a braggart, i. 360; threatening attitude of, i. 362, 369; peace with, i. 367, 373 Ngamberengi the chief, i. 323, 332, 348,

Ngfina,

;

;

165

Nfuuiti, the title of Congo chiefs, i. 17 Xguma, i. 505, 506 Ngako, i-hief of Kinianio, i 304, 306, 380, 381, 392, 490, 507; ii. 191

Ngnku

19, 21

346 Nkusu, the, 1. 153, 160 bridge over the, bridge at, ii. 223 ravine, i. 120, i. 186 122 ii. 301 valley, i. 148 Nkutii River, another name for the Kwn, i. 412 Noble officers, ii. 255-279 Nokki, i. 17, 96, 111, 113, 114, 162, 179; ii. 215, 401 Noaiaza c .ve, i. 115, 120, 121 Nomenclature, erroneous, in Congo-laud, i. 2,3 Nostalgia, i. 224 ii. 241 Nozo, chief at Paliaballa, ii. 217 Nsaka, a chief of Zinga, i. 315 Nsidcala, the lingster, i. 116, 133 Nsii.kala Mpwassa, a chief, i. 165 N?anibana Island, ii. 38 Nsamla, i. 116, 161, 163, 164, 179 payment markets, i. for right of way at, i. 170 175; chiefn, meeting of, i. 164-169; natives, i. 209, 210 N:?angu ferrv, i. 325, 478 mountains, i, 390 ii. 193 Nseke', meaning " inland," i. 3 Nseke'le'lo, i. 166, 172, 173, 222 NselehRiver, i.395, 403 Nselo ferry, ii. 193 Nsona Mamba ferry, i. 259 Ntaba of Malima, i. 299 ;

131 NfevaD^i, ii chief, i. 1G5 Neve, Mr. Paul, i. 226, 239, 283 Newi^papeis, the threat <;f writing to the, 1.71 Rivei',

113, 114 18,

;

131'

ii.

at,

ii.

;

state, ditticultv of

Ntkke

district,

Oil-berry,

ii.

353

;

palm,

ii.

367

INDEX.

476

ii. 277 copper mines, 1. 477 356 Piedmont, the Prince de, i. 35 Pigeon, wild, i. 207 Pigs, ii. 207

Pliillippeville,

Oil-river at Oil Cal;il)ar, ii. 232 01(1 Culitbar River, ii. 232 " Old Tom." ii. 319 Olivier;., Dr.,

450

i.

i. 434 Onion, ii. 357 Opposition from Ngalyema, 332-342 (Jran^:ro, the Priiico ot, i. 35 trees, ii. 246

Oae

P.ilm Point,

i.

ii. i»2,

of expeditions, eastern e.xpeditious, i. 45

33-44;

i.

ii. 237 Overlaid co ivevance of steamers, 227, 228; ii. 26 Oyster shell heaps, ii. 104 Ozi River, i. 58

:

64, 77 I'lutia atnitiotes, i. 411

name

i.

182,

i,

;

ii.

6

Plane-trees, ii. 30, 66 Plantains, li. 357 Plenipotentiaries at Berlin,

ii.

391, 392,

393

of the Conp:o,

1

Plumbaso, ii. 357 Plymouth, landed at, ii. 236 Pocock Francis, i. 313 ii. 249 ;

Padron Point,

i.

Basin,

63

P.dahalla INlountain, ii.

160

IMrate Creek,

Osteiid,

i.

ii.

Pillar Point, i. 12; river, i. 1 Pillars Po;tuguesc Stone, i. 1 their purpose, i. 10, 11 Pilot of Ba-iana, i. 63 I'ilots. jottings for Congo, i. 403, 404, 405 IMncolVs and Kerdyck, Messrs., i. 72 Pine Apples see Fruit. native, i. 198 Pioneers, foreign, i. 195 Piqaf. tta's " Kingdom of the Congo," i. 9 ;

Onjderope, i. 205 O^ear Pere, i. 45

Padiao, Rio de, former

;

;

07,342,353, 356, 367,

374 Orgiuisation oi'

Pike,

487, 4S:>, 51t)

Orbaii, Lieut.,

Orchilla weed,

;

ii.

i.

12), 162, 179, 205;

215, 217

Palavers,—at Vivi, i. 123, 129, 130, 132, 133-137; at Xtamo, i. 309; at Nsnida, 164-170; at Kinlaaio, i. 372; at i. Mswa'a, 1. -ido, 407; at Stanley Falls, ii. 161, 162 Palisades in leaf, i. 152 Palm butter, ii. 342 juice, ii. 192 oil shipments at Old oil, ii. 355 Calabar, ii. 232 wine, i. 165, ISO, 214, 307 ii. 322 Palraas Cape, i. 78 Palms, i. 513, 518; ii. 5, 92, 341, 352, 367 Palmyra Rea-h, i. 106, 112 Papaw tiees, ii. 246 Fapijrus, ii. 6 pautiquoriim, ii. 354 Paifoiny, Lieut., i. 478 ii. 26J Pari^, a meeting it:, i. 23, 24 Park, .Mungo, ii. 385 Parmeuter,"Mnjor, ii. 224, 271, 273



:

;

;

;

ParriKiuets, ii. 8 Parrots, i. 207, 419, 430 ii. 6. 8 Patifencc', the virtue of, i. 46, 49 Payment of native carriers, i. 346 Peace, celebration of, ii. 63, 64 negot'aat at Irebu, ii. 42, 45 tion.s ii. 26 ;

;

;

Bolobj, ii. 60, 61 Pelicans, i. 417 Fersonnd of a station, i. 37 Peschuel Loesche, Dr., i. 376, 447, 449; ii. 387 Pestdential vapour, ii. 300, 301 Pettit Hubert, i. 208 Philanthropic expeditions, character 24; views, ii. 406 Phtenix Spinosa, ii. 354

;

448,

ii.

210

Pogge, Dr., ii. 351, 387 Point Padron, i. 63 Ponta da Lenha, i. 74, 77, 82, 83, 85, 87, 88, 96, 104 Pope Innocent X., i. 16 Paul v., i. 4, 16 Popelin, Captain, i. 43, 44 of Zinga, i. 315 Population, ii. 343 of Bolobo, i. 518 of native villages, ii. ;

;

tables of, ii. 349, 3.50; of Upper Congo region, ii. 349-351; of WebbLualaba region, ii. 360; of Taiiginika territory, ii. 362; of Chambezi region, ii. 362 of the Congo basin, ii. 366, 367,

45;

;

375 Porterage of goods, price now paid for, ii. 372 Portuguese Pillars, i. 1, 14; their purpose, j.

10, 11

missionary



efforts,

i.

11,

13

Portuguese, expel the Jaggas, i. 12 cession of territory to the, i. 12; fort at Kabinda, i. 14; exercised no authority on the Congo bank, i. 14 expelleil from Kabinda, i. 14 the slave-trade under tlie, i. 14, 15 mission at San Salvador, traders, i. 92; at Yivi, i. 225; i. 16; steamers, discomforts of, i. 458, 4.j9, 460 territor.v, ii. 36g, 380, 401, 404; action of the government, ii. 380 Pocse, Count, ii. 277 Potatoes, ii. 357; sweet, ii. 213 Pottery, native manufacture of, ii. 48 Power of native chiefs, i. 17-19 i. 508, ;

;

;

;

;

509 of,

i.

Preparations for war, i. 333 Presents, i. 406 ii. 23, 90 expectancy of i. 164; description of, i. 170; to ;

;

INDEX. exchanging, i. 288, 307 331 a oue-sided balancesiieet for, i. 35^ President for the State, a, ii. 53 Prince's Island, i. 57, 110, 111, 457 Prison l.oirors at Loanda, i. 453 Prisoners, two of my men, i. 371 for theft, ii. 174, 178, 179 Produce, native, i. 193 of I'roducts, of mountain region, ii. 342 chiefs,

i.

185

;

;

clainiauts lor,

i,

;

:

tlie

Upper Congo regions,

352-358

ii.

of Africa, table of value in Liverpool,

ii.

368, 3G9 Progress, rate of, i. 215, 241, 209. 270 Proiectorate of districts, ii. 166 of Boma, ;

ii.

225

Provisions for an Expedition, 48, 49 Pumpkins, ii. 243 Punishment, a terrible, i. 97. 98 Puichas, tiie English compiler, i. 4 Piir.tiins and the Mayflower, ii. 379 Pythons, i. 204 i.

Quarrel with Ngalyema, i. 332-342 Quarrels with natives at Leopold ville, witii natives, difficulties of, i. i. 485 523, 524, 526 ;

Quatrolages, M. de, i. 36 Questions put at the Brussels meeting, 26 Qiiettah, ii. 236 Ouin'a as a Ionic, ii. 325 Quinine in cases of fever,

i.

Eeport to King Leopold, ii. 237 Eepulse at Malima, i. 299, 300 Efsignations, ii. 247 Kesolutions passed at Brussels, i. 27 Ee-trictions on trade, dangers of, i. 464 Eetiibution, thouglits on, ii. 143 Eevenue of proposed railway, ii. 371 Eiiine, comjiarison to, ii. 8 Eice, growth o ii. 35/ Eirhthofen Baron von, i. 34 E ties, class of ritles carried, i. 47 EiL;ht of w'ay, payment fur, i. 170 Eio de Congo, the name on old maps, i. 2 E:o Poderoso, an old name of the Congo, ',

i.

1

Eise and fall of the Congo, i. 87 Eiver bank defended by sliarp pios, ii. 135 Eiver courses, old, i, 175 Rivers (see also under special names), the Aruwiini, ii. 115; Balui, ii. 79, 345; Biyerre. i. 514; ii. 129-132,170, 349; Black Eiver, ii. 359; Bundi, i. 403; Bnnga, ii. 66 Chambczi, ii. .358 Chofu, ii. 153; Edwin Arnold, i. 403 Gordon Bennett, i. 403; ii. 53; Gurba, ii. 131 Ikelcmba, ii. 31, 32, 77, 78, 344; Ikuba, ii. 65; Inkissi, i. 403, 478; ii. 193; Isanga, ii. 345; Itimbiri, ii. 109, 110, 112, llil, 345, 352 Kwa. ii. 314 KwiluNiadi, i. 403; ii. 214, 225: Lacustrine Kan;olondo, ii. 360; Lawsori-Lutini, i. 509, 512; ii. 315; Leopold, ii. 359; Likuba, ii. 185, 345 Lhari, ii. 131 Lon, i. 4(13; Lokulu, Lira, ii. 358, 359 Low-wa, ii. 358, 359 Lualla, i. ii. 361 403 Luama, ii. 359 Lubamba, i. 403 ii. 225; Lnbansenzi, ii. 361; Lubilash, Lubiranzi, ii. 169, ii. 169, 348, :-51 344, 345, 348 Luimme, i. 488 Lufii, i. 403 ii. 21.5, 359; Luigiii. 359; lAiindi, Luizi,i. 403 ii. 359 ii. 217 Lukaiiga, ii. 21, 27, 28, 45, 46, 344; Lulu, i. 403 ii. 193; Lulungu, ii. 76-78, 344, 352; Lumami, ii. 169, 348, 359; Lunionzo, i, :03; ii. 214; Mbika, i. 403; Mbihe', Mfmi, ii. ii7; Mikene, i. 519; ii. 344; ii. 65; Mikene-Alin)a, ii. 345; Muhindu, Mpozo, i. 403 ii. 344 Jlpioga, ii. 211 Mpalanga, i. 4 03; Mulwassi, ii. 207; Nekke, ii. 131 Nepoko, ii. 131 Ngaku, Ngann, i. 444; ii. 344; Nl>uku, ii. 212 ii, 346; Kseleii, i. 395, 403; Ubangi, ii. 345 Ubika, ii. 171 Ulindi, ii. 358, a59 Wampoko, ii. 51 Welle', ii. 126, sqg. Welle-MakuM, ii. 110 Eoad, "kUling" the, i. 314 in danger through lain, ii. 210 ;

;

;

;

;

272-274

i.

477

;

;

Piailwav at Vivi, ii. 227 and Lsangila, proposed,

between Viva

;

186, 187 neci ssity for a, i. 463, 464 fur the Congo, ii. 367. 368 probable cost of construction, ii. 370, 371 probab;e trafSc on a, ii. 370. 371 proposal?, i. 25 Pain, eficctof heavy, i. 94 i.

;

;

;

;

:

Eainfall observations,

Kainstorms,

Eniny ii.

ii.

3C3-338

258

i.

health during,

;

Bank, qunrrels about, i 71, 72 Kansoni ofl'ered for release of a

thief,

ii.

174 i,

260

Eiiphia vinifera,

Eapids, Enka,

ii.

ii.

ii.

ii.

;

:

;

i.

215,

5, 30,

;

;

241, 269,

270,

;

;

i.

;

;

;

48

purchase of. i. 481 Ecasons auainst bloodshed, i. 523, 524 Eecuperation in a temperate climate necessary, ii. 329 Eed«ooil,

;

;

1.39

9,75

Eations, a day's,

;

;

;

352, 351129, 130

ii.

Eiipine, tracts of, Bate of progress,

480;

;

;

tl.e,

299

Eansoms,

;

;

;

210

ii.

seasons,

;

;

67, .374

powder, ii. 2, 353, 354, 356, 367 Eeg's & Co., i. 72, 78 Eemini;tou rifles, i. 47

;

Eoad-mnking.

i. 141, 1-12, 115, 154, 155, 181, 187, I'.iO, 191, 196-198, 201, 201235-237, 239, 279, 312, 325, 207, 224, 370, 463; ii. 223; negotiating for, i.

167-169

INDEX.

478 Eoafls, iniurcd hv rains, i. 480 104, 189; n.glected, ii. 221 Eobsou Islands, i. 82 Kock formations, i. 240, 247 Kocky Point, i. 115, 513-515 liohlf, the explorer, ii. 385

native,

;

transferred to St. Paul de 13; in ruins, i. 13; attempt to re-open mi.?sions, i. 13 Baptist Mission at, i. 13; mission at, i. 16; ii.

bishopric

i.

Loanda,

;

342 Sarawak,

Roman

125, 126, 171, 172, 173, 175, 176, 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 243, 241, 246, 247, 250, 255, 256, 2.")8, 262, 264, 325, 390, 391, 396, 397, 399, 400, 5('4, 505, 511, 512. 513; ii. 4-9, 11, on the 17, 77, 79, 91, 92, 93, 152; Ikeleniba, ii. 34-36 Sceptical people, ii. 377 Sceptre of Ngalyema,

;

Ruanda

cattle, ii. 301 Rubber, India, i. 384 Rubunga, Chief of Nganza, ii. 99 Rudolf, the Archduke, i. 35 Rudoltttadt station, i. 474-476 river, i. 58 Rnfiiji, the, i. 44 Rug:)-Ru
School, native children of, ii. 208 Schnoor Ihe carpenter, ii. 191 Schweinfuith, Dr., ii. 130, 351, 385 Scientific mission of a station, i. 37 Scotch scenery, comparison to, i.

;

i.

81

Seaside resorts, i. 23 Stason ior gardening, i. 381 Sea near the land, appearance of the, 61 Secrecy, reasons Seltzer, ii. 282

251

477, 480, 481. 488, 489 Sacre
ii. ISO182 Sadika Banza, i. 164, 179, 205 Sadika Banzi, p;afeau, ii. 216 Safeni, i. 260 Sagfjitaire, the, a French frigate, i. 86, (note), 475 Sailing vessels ascending the Congo, i. 113 docuuK nt in St. Paul de Loanda, 14 the arcliivcs of, i. 12; desciiption of, i. 450-455 St. Thomas' Island, i. 57, 456 Salt extiactcd from grass, i. 424 Salutations on the march, ii. 192, 193 S;duting the dead, i. 75 Samuna. a cliief of Xsanda, i. 18, 164 Sanatorium at Boma, ii. 228 Le'opoldville, i. 391 on Leopold Hill, ii. 191 Sand flies, i. 214 Saml-pipeis, i. 436 Sanda Congo, i. 112 Sanfoni, Gineral, H. S., of Florida, i. 36 ii. 381, 382 San Januario, the Duke de, i. 35 San Salvador, capital of Congo, i. 11 destrnction of, i. 12; rebuilding of, i. 12;

400,

401

Scotchman Head,

;

i.

379

124, 179, 245, 324, 401,

154, 190, 196, 477, 478, 481, 501 ; ii. 57, 59, 116; at 0»tend, i. 244; under repair, wreck of the, ii. 170, 171 i. 261 Royal Geographical Society, i. 33

Sabuka,

ii.

Sardines, potted, ii. 322 Saulez, Capt. Sevmour, ii. 191. 272 Scenery oftheCo'ngo.i. 92,93, 94, 111,112,

Catholic Mission, ii 50 liome, missions from, i. 16 Eoth, Dr., i. 34 " Rotlischild," the, of Bolobo, ii. 3 Eowe. Sir Samuel, i. 57, 59 Royal, steam launcli, i. €8, 83, 104, IIG,

Sa'adala,

i.

;

;

for,

i.

56

i.

Semicarhus anacardium, ii. 358 Sette Camma, ii. 229 Settlement, an immense, ii. 81, 82 Shale, ii. 214 Shamba Gonera, i. 45, 48 Shari River, ii. 131 Shark's Point, i. 62, 63 Shaw, Mr. E. Massey, ii. 224, 271, 273 Sheds for workmen, a necessity, ii. 315 Sheep, ii. 243 Shipping at Banana Point, i. 64 Ships for the Congo, ii. 367 Shooting a hippopotamus, i. 106 Sick list, i. 216; of stations, ii. 306; men, ii. 248 shamming at A^ivi, ii. 222 causes ecnsidered, ii. Sickness, 1. 212 286, sqfj. prevention of, ii. 311 Siemens, Dr. W.. i. 34 Sierra Leone, i. 57, 59 ii. 236, 297, 320 Signals ot natives, ii. 158 Siluru.
;

;

;

;

;

I

;

I

'

;

j

1

Slave-trade,

i.

14, 15; suppression of the,

INDEX. 15; trade, the, i. 90.97, 152 atLoanda, 451 efi'c ct on population, ii. 343 Slave-traders on tlie Congo, i. 113: from the Suudan, ii. 122 news of, ii. 135 on terrible scenes, the Conixo, ii. 139, 140 ii. 140-150; tradi rs overtaken, ii. 142; raids of, ii. 144, 145 numbers in a gan^', ii. 145; jjl under taken by, ii. 147; captives of, ii. 148, 149; extent of country

suppressing the slavei. 54 i. 190; defensive measures at a, i. 370 m( asurcs for .«u])pi rling, i. 465 neglect by leaders, i. 469; destruction of two, ii. 50; a well-governed, ii. 72 founding, ii. 75 the last formed, ii. 160; a pretty, ii. 212, 213; (f^uii)ment ftir, ii. 243 in neglect and jirosperitv, ii. 245 success of Stanley Falls, ii. 275; unluallliy, ii. 287, 288, 290292, 299-301 sick list of, ii. 306 sites of, ii. 319, 320 influence of in

;

i.

trade, i. 37 establishing,

;

;

;

;

ravaged hy,

ii.

150, 151 Phi vers at work,

ii.

149

instigators of,

;

ii.

15

2

ii.

Snider

rifles,

i.

47

Soil, richness of the,

393

i.

Steam

communication, instructions regarding, i. 27 Stettmer.s trading, i. 91, 92; the harbingers of trade, i. 254 transported overland, i. 182, 227, 228, ii. 204; first on the Upper Congo, i. 375 on the Congo, tflfect of largo, ii. 7, 8, 9; surprise the natives, ii. 12, 16, 29, 105 for the Congo, ;

251

ii.

Souiio, rebellion in, i. 12 Soudanese slave-traders,

83 122 227

82.

:

ii.

;

ii.

;

;

;

;

;

;

Pooh

31, 86, 96, 159, 191, 216, 225, 234, 268, 270, 387, 388, 389, 445, 477, 478, 481, 488. 507, 514; ii. 2, 3, 5, 22, 49, 61, 214, 289, 302, 342, 343, 345 ; i.

distant view

description of, of, i. 290 Pool markets, i. 421 missionaries at, i. 490; division of, i. 203; monthly supply to, ii. 272 Starvation, approaching, i. 302 Stations, instructions r garding, i. 27 on Lake 'I'anganika, i. 35 on ihe east of Africa, i. 30 hosjiitable missions oJ^ i. 37 scientific missions of, i. 37 ;

;

;

;

Cove,

i.

379

Steel lighters, i. 68 Stephanieville, i. 470, 477 Sterile scenes, i. 204, 205

Haven, Stanley Kails, ii. 103 Stimulants, craving for, ii. 241 absence of, ii. 242 abuse of, ii. 251, 252, 253,

Still

;

;

254 Stink-wood, ii. 5 Stipa tenaccissima, ii. 354 Stocking Islantl, i. 82, 89 Stores, i. 153; conveyance of, i. 155, 182, 210, 211, 214; list of, i. 285; <.f the Kx( edition, i. 68 for the Upper Congo Expedition, list of, 501, 502; for an expedition, ii. 70 h ft at Stanley Falls, ii. 165 sent monthly to Stanley I'ool, ii. 272 Storms, 1. 201, 227, 337, 418, 437, 438 ii. 95, 90. 98, 137 Story of Ngalycma's life, i. 348, 349 Stoiy, a hypocritical, ii. 41 Strauch. Colon. 1, i. 28, 39, 42, 43, 46, 52, ii. 378, 394 5d, 189 Strength of the expedition, i. 378 Stri/chnas, ii. 358 Subsidies to chiefs, i. 54 Sugar, i. 414 ii. 357, 375 Suicide of 31. Luksic, 489 Suki, i. 315 Sun, avoiding exposure to the, ii. 323; observations of the. i. 205 ;

;

;

;

;

;

Sun-bird, ii. 6 Sun-fever, ii. 322 Sunday, a dny of rest, i. 230 Sundi, i. 176 Sungi) Maji of Bumba, ii. 107 Sunshine, Atiican, i. 94, 95 Sunstroke, ii. 322; precautious against,

315

;

;

367

'

Soudi (if Turn, i. 251, 252, 253 Soundings at Vivi, i. 128, 129; on the C.ugo, i. 402 Soups ii. 322 Sovereignty ceded to the Association, ii. 225 Snake skin girdles, ii. Ill ."-nakes, i. 204 Spaces, health of open, ii. 302 Sparhawk, Mr. Augustus, i. 145, 154, 159, 196 Spear-grass, i. 423 Speke, ii. 385 Spliynx Rock, ii. 211 Spitting-snakes, i. 204 Squabbles to be avoided, i. 46 Stables, i. 153 Staff, complaints from the, i. 70, 71 at Vivi, i. 159 re-organisation v.i Vivi, ii. 223 Stanley and Bula Matari, difference between, ii. 28 Stanley Falls, i. 70, 148 ii. 56, 75, 154character of trade 156, 340. 343, 358 at, ii. 160 palaver a!, ii. 101, 102 choosing a site. ii. 102 clearing the site, ii. 105: Falls Station, improvement at, ii. 275

390

;

;

"Sojering,"

i.

;

;

;

Snails,

;

;

121. 121

200

Smallpo.x,

;

ii.

Slaves sacrificed, 180-182 Slavery, at Boma, i. 90 an escape from, i.

commonwealth,

;

;

;

;

479

*'

Superstitions" of natives, 28,

2.1,

62

ii.

INDEX.

480 "Susceptibilities" on

tlie

Congo,

i.

72

;

ii.

240, 270 Susi, Livingstone's head man, i. 310, 318, 335, 345, 379 Suspicion a'lcl distrust among natives, dinger of, i. 109, 170 Suzeniintv of chiefs, i. 18 Swinburne, Mr. A. D i. 57, 58, 145, 150, l'.)G, 208, 213. 218, 219. 221, 239, 240, 496 ii. 289 his services, ii. 257, 558 Switzti-laud, a holiday in, i. 23 ,

;

;

Sword, Makoko's, i. 332 Swordtmiths, ii. 35G

Track.s, herd, i. 201 native, i. 192 Trale and barter, articles for African,

i.

157

1.56,

Trade, factory, i. 74, 75; at Vivl, i. 156; competition, i. 800 Congoese, shrewddemanded at Nganza, ness in, i. 137 ii. 99 the coming of the whites means, native eageri. 168; in gunpowder, i. 75 ness for, i. 384 ii. 367 of West Atrica, amornit of, ii. 3G6 probabilities of iticrcnscd, ii. 367; lousiiig llie spirit of, ii.376; routes, ii. 342 tiible of possible, ;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

talk, i. 214; at new factories, ii. 310 witli natives, conduct of, i. 99, 100 visions of future, feasibility of, i. 463 ;

Tabnra, i. 40, 42 Tactics against Ngalyema,

i.

334

;

Tiimarinds, ii. 5 " Tandelny," ii. 89

Tanganika, Lake,

i. 7, 20, 35, 37, 40, 41, ii. 359. 363 43, 44. 46 territory, extent of, ii. 362 ;





danger of excessive, i. 464 Tea as a beverage, ii. 322 Teak, African, i. 192 ii. 30, 67 Temperance, ii. 325, 329 Temperature, ii. 282, 314, 316-318, 330, 331 Tendelay, i. 206 Teneriffe donkeys, i. 225 Tents, making new, i. 279 Territories of the Congo basin, ii. 365 Territory ceded to the Portuguese, i. 12 The au lait, ii. 324 Tariff's,

;

Thefts at goods,

ii.

Iboko, and

return

of stolen

180

Thermometer readings, Thieving natives,

ii.

84

i. ;

203. 213 at Iboko,

ii.

173,

174

Tliompson, Captain, i. 57, 105-107 Thys, Captain, ii. 378 Tides on tlie Congo, i. 87 Tiger skin, trick with a, ii. 107 Time bill, fiora the sea to Yivi, 1. 116; occupied in journeys, i. 191 Times, Tlie, i. 58 Tinned meats, i. 284; ii. 322 Tippling, ii. 319 Tippn Tib, an Arab trader, ii. 154, 351

Mr. W. H.. ii. .396 ii. 364, 375 Tomatoes, ii. 213 Tonics, ii. 325 Tools and stores carried by our exi^edition, i. 503 "Topeis," ii. 251, 252 Topography, i. 172, 173. 175.176, 179-184, 192, 258, 287. 290. 352-355. 395 397, Tis.lel,

Tobacci),

412, 413, 513, 514; ii. 4, 17. 18, 46, 47, 78. 341, sqq. of Vivl, i. 126, 136, 140 Torch, U.M.S.. i. 86 (note) Tortoise shell, ii. 354 T'ltela, king of Congo, i. 17 " Touri-t " engineers, i. 209 Trachrjlobum, ii. 353 ;

127 Traders, ivory, character of, i. 387 jealousy of, 309 misrepresented by missionarii s, i. 100 of tlie Upper Congo, on the Kwa, tlie champion, ii. 21-23 i.

,

;

;

;

i.

415

Trailing at Boleko, ii. 83; ville, i. 380. 383, 384 ii. 79 communities of Arabs, companies, i. 29 in ivory, i. 383,' 384

at Leopold-

eanoe.s,

Bcma,

stations at

i.

ii.

360, 363

91

steamers, i. 91, 92 Traditional origin of Byyanzi, ii. 1 Traffic at Nsanga Ferry, i. 479 Transport of steamers overland, ii. 264; enlistment of natives for, ii. 225 Travelling, dangers of, ii. 317; rate of, i. 215, 241, 269, 270 Treasury at Le'opoldville, low state of tlie, i.

483

Treaties

495

;

-with ii.

native chiefs, 380 ; forms

48. 379,

i.

473-477, ii. 195-

of,

197, 205, 206 Treaty with Vivi chiefs, i. 137, 138, 155, 156 Trees, ancient, i. 316 or groves a sign of vil]a'.jes, 1. 62 planting as a protection, ii. 311 Tributaries of the Congo, length of, ii. 344352; tlieir length, ii 347 Tribute, i. 49 Tropical heat, ii. 282 islands, character of, i. 457 scenes, ii. 91-93 Tropics, bodily changes in the. i. 65 the best food for, ii. 294 conditions of life in the, i. 85 drugs for the, ii. 325. 327 food in the, ii. 321-324, 329 he.ltii in the. Dr. Marlin's advice, ii. 329 mode ;

;

:

;

;

;

;

:

of

life

in the,

i.

65, 67; clothes for the,

326 Troup, air. Jolm Rose, i. 23 Trucks for machinery, Tsetse, i. 419 ii.

ii.

224, 272, 274

Trouville,

i.

198

INDEX. Tuckey's, Captain, account of tlie slave173 expedition of, i. 5, 6, trade, i. 14 its losses, i. 6, 7 ii. 317 102, 120, 121 its results, i. 7 ;

Usindi,

;

;

Uyanzi,

" Tuckey's furthest," i. 184 Tugurambusa Hills, ii. 151, 152

Two Palm

Point,

Typhoid

fever,

'J'yplops,

i.

i.

ii.

warriors,

Piiver,

Ufipa,

176 98

171

Kiver,

i.

ii.

Ukumiia Uledi,

i.

243, 246, 258, 357 Vegetation, effects of fire upon, Venetian beads, i. 30

318, 321

Ugangi, ii. 47 Ugogo, i. 45, 49 Uguhha, i. 43 Ugunda, i. 46 Uhha, ii. 362, 364 Ujiji, i. 40-42, 216; 364 Ukatakura, ii. 97 Ukawenda, ii. 364 TIkele,

cattle,

ii.

361; 363,

94

i.

Congo, ii. 11, 12, 15 waim invitation to, ii. 30; on the Ikelemba, ii. 36; on the Congo, ii. 45 deserted, ii. 138 devastated by Arabs, ii. 139-141, 148 in easily defended jDositions, ii. 172; healthy sites of native, ii. 302, 303 Ville cVAnvers steamer, ii. 225 " Vinda by the river," i. 112 Vinda-le-Nzaddi, i. 112 Visions of future track, i. 127 Vivi, i. 70, 113, 114-116, 127, 128, 144147,149,152,153,159-162,167, 181, 189, ;

ii.

225

;

!

171 district,

ii.

;

Versteeg, M., i. 35 Vetch, Major Francis, ii. 272, 273, 355 Veterans on the coast, i. 73 Viboiido, ii. 360 Victoria Nyanza, i. 20 Villages, native, i. 315; on the Upper

176

I

|

j

i

|

|

;

i

Ungende, ii. 11 Unhealthy stations, ii. 287, 288, 290, 291, 299-301 United States, co-operation of the, i. 36 380 action of the, ii. 381, 382 Unkuri, i. 432 Unyamwezi, i. 39, 40 ii. 363 Uuyauyembe', expedition to, i. 39, 40, 41, 46, 48 Upiti, a chief, ii. 58, 61 Upoto, ii. 22, 60 Hills, ii. 99, 103, 171 Upper Cojigo discovered by Stanley, i. 37; 356; communication with the sea, i. 463, 464 Urainbo, Mirando, King of, i. 39, 43 Uranga, ii. 76-78 etiusive welcome at, ii. 176 Urundi cattle, ii. 361, 3G2, 364 Urungu, ii. 364 Ururu, a chief, i. 518, 519 ii. 57 Usansi, i. 326-331 Mountain, i. 390 Usige, ii. 362; cattle, ii. 311 Usimbi District, ii. 176

!

197, 207, 208, 210-215, 220, 225, 234, 422, 513 ii. 56, 215, 218, 219, 289, 291, 298, ;

304; founding the 197; topography,

;

'

;

;

YoL. II.— 31

station,

i.

118-126,

136, 140; chiefs, i. 123, 129, 130, 142 aborigines, i. 130 ; extent of territory of, i. 135, 136 its recommendations, i. 136, 138; treniy with chiefs, i. 155, 156; trade, i. 156; staff at, i. 159; anel Isangila, proposed railway between, i. 186, 187; to Ndambi i.

126,

;

I

;

I

i

j

!

Ml)ongo, i. 192 Isangila to, i. 239 messengers sent to, i. 251; recruits at, i. 278 resignation of a chief, i. 376 no progress at, i. 447; eleparture fiom, i. 449 return to, i. 468 neglect of, i. 469, 470 quarrels at, i. 489 troubles ;

;

;

;

;

;

251

Ulindi River, ii. 358, 359 Ulungu Mountains, i. 175, 179, ISO, 205 Umaneh Town, ii. 124, 125 Fmangi, ii. 98, 171 Uraari, ii. 39, 42 a guide, ii. 44

ii.

factories,

;

363

ii.

Ufuvu

ii.

ii. ii.

new

Vangele, Lieut., ii. 38, 71, 177, 181, 264, 267, 289 Van Schuman Herr, i. 471 Vapour, pestilential, ii. 300, 301 Vegetables, i. 103, 148, 381, 393 ii. 71,

356

Ubika

421

299-301

i.

;

;

TTbengo, district

ii.

of probable trade at 370, 871

Van Bogaarte, Major, i. 239 Van de Velde, Lieut., 473-476 Van den Heuvel, Dr., ii. 53, 191

400 345 a popidous place, swordsmiths, ii. 21, 23, 354

13,

1,

ii.

Valley stations, unhealthy, Value of ivory, i. 380, 384

i. 51G 212

ii.

i.

;

380

ii.

Ubangi, Kiver,

511, 512, 513; markets,

;

ii.

205

Uango-Ango,

i.

Valcke', Lieut., i. 237-210, 283, 286, 311, 382, 449, 477, 480, 481, 488, 489, 509 ii. 51, 53, 223 his services, ii. 261-264

Tunduwa

Point, i. 114, 120 Turtle doves, i. 419 Twiss, Sir Travers, on treaties,

182

19, 21, 23, 49, .68, 69,

ii.

Uvana, Banza, i. 208 Uvira iron-works, ii. 3(54

;

;

481

;

;

;

;

;

52; more iri-egularities at. ii. 187, nothing accomplished, ii. 221, 224 shamming sick at, ii. 222 leorganisation of staff, ii. 223; removal of the station, ii. 223; progress cf the new station, ii. railway at, li. 227 227 situation of at,

j

|

ii.

;

;

;

;

INDEX.

482 old,

287; distunce from

ii.

tlie sea,

ii.

339

Viva

Hill,

13^. 141, 145, 146, 150, 161,

i.

162 Mavungii, i. 123, 129, 132, 138, 1)3, 163 EapiJs, i. 128 ii. 218 Nkii, a chief, i. 130 Volga, comparisou to, ii. Vombo, ii. 214 Vou Mechow, ii. 387 Voonda, i. 250 ii. 209, 214, 22.5 ;

;

AVebb-Liialaba Eiver, navigation of the, ii. 359 AVeissman, Lieut., ii. 351, 387 AVelcoiiie at Ikengo, ii. 30 AVcUe lliver, ii. 126, sq^. identical with the liiyerre', ii. 130 AVclle-Makua Eiver, ii. 110 AVellington,Duke of, on Indian life, ii. 295 Weuya fishermen, ii. 154 AVerre, another name tir AV^ellc' Eiver. AVest African Livingstone Search Expedition, i. 13 AVet clothes, danger of, ii. 326 exposure flannels, ii. 283, 285, 369 to, ii. 285 AVheat, ii. 375 ;

;

Wabaiigi,

ii.

43

;

Wabika tribe, ii. 172 Wabuina people, 419 Wadi Kehani, i. 238, 345, 379 i.

AVages, uative surpriso at,

49 AVaglails, i. 43G; Waffogo,

i.

143, 144

i.

ii.

G

Waliha

tribe, ii. 363 AVajiJi sailors, i. 43; tiibe,

363

ii.

Wanibuiidii, au inland people, 320, 323, 495

i.

;

305, 319,

ii.

;

Wangata, ii. 37, 38, 39, 42 AVangwaua, i. 45-48 ii.

4

AVauya-Kuauda

363 Wauyamwezi ptople, i. 46-48 ii. 363 prevenAVar, daily expected, i. 361-366 natives preparing for, tion of, i. 380 i. 524; ii. 113,114; objections to, i. 526, 527 native, ii. 23-25 at Irebu. ii. 42-45 burying a, ii. 45 with Eolobo, among 57-61 indemnity, ii. 61 ii. tribe,

ii.

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

effects natives, slight causes for, ii. 62 da^ice of natives, ii. 343 internecine, desolating efftct of, ii. 35 ;

on population,

;

;

i.

173

AA'ar-fetish, a curious,

i.

340

AVarlike threats of Ngalyema, i. 332-334 AVare, another name lor AVcllt' lUver, AV'aruudi tribe, ii. 363 AVatei course, searcli for a, i. 178 AV'ater-drinking. excessive, ii. 315-317 AVatson, Sir Ihomas, on tiee-planting, ii.

311

AVatumba

of IMusangaland, ii. 109 AVatwa, dwarfs, the, ii. 47 ivoiy sold by, ii. 48 AVax, ii. 364 Wazige tribe, ii. 363 AV'callh of ivory trading chiefs, i. 310-311 A\'eaver-bird,s, i. 436 AVebb-Lualaba region, extent of, ii. 340, 358 ;

ii.

254,

AVoerman, Herr, ii. 394 AVnman, a notable, 425, 426 AVomcn, nude, ii. 100 of Africa, the, i. 425 AVood I'oint, i. 83, 85

154

Kiisari,

AVanuuu,

172,

298

moderate use of, AVine, ii. 242 282, 295 AVing-clappers, i. 207 AVinton, Sir Francis de, ii. 227 AVitchcraft, punishment of, i. 380

AVami lliver, i. 44, 58 AVampoko Kivcr, ii. 51 AVane Kirundu, ii. 360 Mikimgu, ii. 156 Itukura lisberuien, ii. 157 Sirouga, ii. 157

AA'hip-snakes, i. 204 AVhirlpools, i. 106 AVhisky, ii. 251, 252, 319 " AVliite Man's Grave," ii. 320 AA'illing hands a necessity, ii. 240 AVind obL-ervations, ii. 310, 331-333 ii. AVinds, cold, i. 210, 211, 264

cutting, ii. 9 AVork, a year's, i. 240 neglected at Vivi, shirking, ii. 240, 242 on ii. 221, 222 the Congo, ii. 252 honour of, ii. 278, 279 hours for outdoor, ii. 314 AVorkers, unintelligent, ii. 249, 250 AVorking day, duration of our, i. 149 nuuibcrs force, weakness of, i. 191 ;

;

;

;

;

;

196 AVorkmanship, native, of our,

i.

ii.

123

agreement about native, i. 1G9 shelter for outdoor, ii. 315 AVreck of a canoe, ii. 49 AVy-yanzi people, i. 428, 443 ii. 14, 23, '60\ 60, 63, 64, 302 custom of succession,

AV'orkiiien,

;

;

;

i.

520

Yakkiis, the, invasion

Yakongo Yakui,

ii.

village,

ii.

:

see

Ajakkas.

103

125

Yakusa spe irs, ii. 356 Yalulima tiibe, ii. Ill, 354; swordsmiths, ii. 356

Yambi

vilhige,

ii.

Yambinga, town, Yambuii,

ii.

126 107-109

ii.

127

57-60 127 A'nmbnngu village, ii. 112 Yambuya village, ii. 129

Yambula, 518,525 A'ambuniba town,

;

ii.

ii.

483

inde:s:. Ynmbila, a guide,

Yamu-ningiii village, ii. 110 Yannu, i. 4H2 Yangambi, ii. 151 Yangassa, a chief of Nzabi, i. 310 Yaukau on Itimbiri, ii. 100 Yanzi, Chief of Wane Sirongn, ii. 157

Yaporo district, ii. 141 Yaruche, ii. 152 Yarukuinbe town, ii. 152 Yaryembi, ii. 152 Yavuuga, a desolated village,

ii. 82, 8G, 88, 97, 98, 100, 112, 110, 117, 140, 182

name of the Congo, 202 described by a Capiicliin father i. 4 Tuckey's description of the, i. 5, G Zanzibar, 28, 29, 35, 37, 39, 43-45, 47, 48 Ihe Sultan of, i. 49 tlie Prince of, i. 58 Zaire, the, Portuguese i.

2,

;

;

;

Zauzibaris, i. 49, 59, 07, 1-JO, 150, 203, 212, 216, 277, 278, 311, 445, 4G2 ii. 97 144 sent iiome, i. 449 Zareeba or boma, i. 46 Zari see Znire. Zebra, ii. 241 Zinga, i. 287, 313-31G Zingeli, i. 46 ;

141 Yellala, i. 102, 113, 160, 105, 179; falls, i. "202, 203; ii. 218 mountain, i. 205; ii. ii.

;

217 Yellow wood, ii. 30 Yomburri, a desolated lown, ii. 139, 141 Youno-blood, Mr., i. 04, 73 Youthful indulgence, ii. 282, 283

;

:

Zombo,

Zuuga

THE ENDo

ii.

312

chya-Idi,

i.

105

VALUABLE WORKS OF

EXPLORATION AND ADVENTURE. Stanley's Congo, and the Founding of its Free Stale.

A

Work and

By H. M. Stanley. Dedicated by King of tbe Belgians. Wltli over One Hundred fnll-page and smaller Illustrations, two large Maps, and several Story of

Exploration.

Special Permission to H. M. the

smaller oues.

2

vols., 8vo, Clotli.

{Just Ready.)

Stanley's Tlirongli the Dark Continent. Througli tbe Dark Continent or, Tbe Sources of tbe Nile, Around tbe Great Lakes of Equatorial Africa, and Down tbe Livingstone Eiver to tbe Atlantic Ocean. Witb 149 Illustrations and 10 Maps. By Henry ;

M. Stanley.

2 vols., 8vo, Clotb, $10 00; Sbeep, $12 00; Half Morocco,

|15 00.

Stanley's Coomassie

and Magdala.

Coomassic and Magdala: a Story of

Two

By Henry M. Stanley. Witb Maps and

Britisb

Campaigns

Illustrations.

in Africa.

8vo, Clotb, $3 50.

Livingstone's Last Jonrnals. The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to liis Deatb. Continued by a Narrative of bis Last Moments and SufferBy Horace ings, obtained from bis Faitbful Servants Cbuma and Susi. Waller, F.R.G.S., Rector of Twywell, Northampton. Witb Maps and Illustrations.

Cheap Popular Edition,

8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $6 00.

8vo, Clotb, with

Map and

Illustrations,

.fi2

50.

Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi. Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi and

tbe Discovery of the Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa.

and Charles Livingstone.

With Map and

its

Tributaries

1858-1864.

Illustrations.

;

and of

By David 8vo, Clotb,

|5 00; Sbeep, $5 50.

Long's Central Africa. Central Africa Naked Truths

of Naked People. An Account of ExpeLake Victoria Nyanza and tbe Makraka Niam-Niam, West of the Bahr-El-Abiad (White Nile). By Col. C. Chaille Long, of the Egyptian Staff. Illustrated from Col. Long's own Sketches. With Map. :

ditious to tbe

8vo, Clotb,$2 50.

Valuable WorJcs of Exploration and Adventure.

2

Cameron's Across Africa. Africa. By VEiiXKY Lovett Cameron, C.B., D.C.L., Commander Royal Navy, Gold Medalist Eoyal Geographical Society, etc. With a Map and iinmerous Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00.

Across

AshaiigO'Laiid.

Dii Chaillirs

A

Journey to Ashango-Land, and Farther Peuetration into Equatorial Africa. By Paul B. Du Chaillu. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00 Sheep, $5 50

Half

;

Schweinfiirtli's

Calf, $7 25.

Heart of Africa.^

of Africa; or, Three Years' Travels

The Heart

and Adventures

in

the

Unexplored Regions of the Centre of Africa. From 1868 to 1871. By Translated by Ellen E. Frewer. With Dr. Geoug Sciiweixfurth. an Introduction by WixwoOD Reade. Illustrated by about 130 Woodcuts from

Drawings made by the Author, and with Two Maps.

2

vols.,

8vo, Cloth, $8 00.

Speke's Africa. Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. By Joiix Haxxixg Speke, Captain H. M. ludiau Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the

Royal Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and Gold MedWith Maps aud Portraits alist of the French Geographical Society, etc.

and numerous

Illustrations, chiefly

8vo,Cloth,$4 03; Sheep, $4

from Drawings by Captain Graxt.

50.

Burton's Lake Regions of Central Africa. The Lake Regions of Central Africa. A Picture of Exploration. By Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, Captain Richard F. Burton. $3 50.

Baker's Ismailia. Ismail'ia: a Narrative of the

pression of the Slave

By

Sir

-

Expedition to Central Africa for the Sup-

Trade, organized

Samuel White Baker, Pasha,

by Ismail, Khedive of Egypt. M.A., F.R.S., F.R.G.S., Major-

Geueral of the Ottoman Empire, late Governor-General of the Equatorial Nile Basin,

etc., etc.

Illustrations

With Maps,

Portraits,

by Zwecker and Durand.

and upwards of 50 full-page

8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Half Calf,

%1 25.

Lady

Blnnt's Bedouin Tribes of the Euphrates.

Bedouin Tribes of the Euphrates. By Lady Axxe Blunt. Edited, with a Preface and some Account of the Arabs and their Horses, by W. S. B. Map and Sketches by the Author. 8vo, Cloth, ^2 50.

Works of Exploration and Adventure.

Valnalile

3

Reade's Savage Africa. Savage Africa

being the Narrative of a Tour

:

in Equatorial, Sontli-wcst-

eru,and Nortli-westeru Africa; with Notes on the Habits of the Gorilhi; on the Existence of Unicorns and Tailed Men ou the Slave-Tradc on ;

;

the Origin, Character, and Capabilities of the Negro, and on the Future

Western

Civilization of

trations

and a Map.

By W. WiNWOOD Eeade.

Africa.

8vo, Cloth, |4 00

;

Sheep, $4 50

;

Half

Prime's Boat-Life iu Egypt and Nubia. Boat -Life in Egypt and Nubia. By William C. Prime. 12mo, Cloth, %2

Cnrtis's Nile

With

Illus-

Calf, $6 25.

Illustrated.

00.

Notes of a Howadji. By George William

Nile Notes of a Howadji.

Curtis.

12aio, Cloth,

$1 50.

A

Naturalist's

A

Wanderings

in the

Eastern Arcliipelngo. By Hexry O.

Narrative of Travel and Exploration from 1878 to 1883.

Forres, F.R.G.S.,

etc.

8vo, Cloth, $5 00.

Illustrated.

{Just FuhlhUed.)

Wallace's Malay Archipelago. The Malay Archipelago Paradise. •

Nature.

A

:

the

Land

of the Orang-Utau and the Bird of

Narrative of Travel, 1854-62.

By Alfred Russel Wallace.

New

Illustrations.

Edition.

Crown

With Studies of Man and With Maps and numerous

8vo, Cloth, $2 50.

Wallace's Island Life. Island Life;

or,

Climates.

The Phenomena of Insular Faunas and

Floras, Avith

Including an entire Revision of the Problem of Geological

their Causes.

By Alfred Russel Wallace.

Witli Illustrations and Mai)S.

8vo, Cloth, $4 00.

Wallace's Geographical Distribution of Animals. The Geographical Distribution of Animals. With a Study of the Relations of Living and Extinct Faunas, as elucidating the Past Changes of With Colored the Earth's Surface. By Alfred Russel Wallace. Maps and numerous Illustrations by Zwecker. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $10 00.

Viimbcry's Centrtil Asia. being the Account of the Journey from Teheran across the Turkoman Desert, on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian, to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand, performed in the year 1883. By Ar-

Travels iu Central Asia

:

MiNius Vambery, Member of the Hungarian Academy of Pesth, by he was sent on this Scientific Mission. With Maps and Woodcuts. Cloth, $4 50 Half Calf, $6 75. ;

whom 8vo,

Valuable Worls of Exploration and Adventure.

4

Thomson's Malacca, Indo-China, and China. The

Straits of Malacca, ludo-Cliiiin,

Adventures, and Ecsidence Abroad. Illustrations.

and China; or, Ten Years' Travels, By J. THOMSON. With over GO

8vo, Clot]),S4 00.

MacGahan's Campaigning on the

Oaiis.

By

Cainpaigning ou the Oxns and the Fall of Khiva.

With Map and

Illustrations.

8vo, Cloth,

J. A.

MacGahan.

50.

iif3

Biirnnby's Ride lo Khiva. A Kide to Khiva: Travels and Adventures in Central Asia. By Frkd BuRNABY (Captain Eoyal Horse Guards). With Maps and an Appendix, containing, among other Information, a Series of March-routes, compiled from a Russian Work. 12nio, Cloth, $2 00.

Armenia and Erzcroom.

Cni'zon's

Armenia: a Year at Erzeroom, and on tlie P' rentiers of Russia, Turkey, and Persia. By the Hon. Robert Curzon. Map and Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1

Vincent's The Laud

25.

Land

of the

White Elephant.

White Elephant: Sights and Scenes in South-eastern Asia. A Personal Narrative of Travel and Adventure in Farther India, embracing the Countries of Burma, Siam, Cambodia, and Cochin-China of the

By Frank Yixcext,

(1H71-2).

Vincent's

Magnificently Illustrated with Maps,

Jr.

Plans, and numerous Woodcuts.

8vo, Cloth, Gilt Tops, $2 50.

Throngh and Throngh the Tropics.

Tlirongh and Through the Tropics Oceanica, Australasia, and India.

:

Thirty Thousand Miles of Travel in

By Feakk

r2mo, Cloth,

Yin'CEXT, Jr.

$1 50.

Thomson's Sonthern Palesline and Jernsalem. The Land and the Book Southern Palestine and Jerusalem. By William M. TiiOMSOXjD.D., Forty-five Years a Missionary in Syria and Pal:

estine.

140 Illustrations and Maps.

Square Bvo, Cloth, $6 00; Sheep,

|7 00; Half Morocco, §8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.

Tliomson's Central Palestine and Pha'nicia. The Land and the Book Central Palestine and Phoenicia. :

M. Thomson, D.D. $6 00

;

Sheep, $7 00

130 Illustrations and ;

Half Morocco, $8 50

Maps. ;

By William

Square Bvo, Cloth,

Full Morocco, Gilt Edges,

$10 00.

Thomson's East of the Jordan. The Laud and the Book: East of the Jordan. sox, D.D.

Illustrations

and Maps.

Square 8vo.

By William M. TllOM{Xeurhj

Ilcaihj).

Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure.

Prime's Tciit'Lifc in

llic

Holy Land.

By William

Tent-Life iu the Holy Laud.

5

C. Phi.mk.

Illustrated.

12mo,

Clotli,$2 00.

Pike's SnIj'Ti'opical Rambles. Sub-Tropical Rambles iu the Laud of tlie Apliauapteryx riences, Adventures,

By Nicholas

ritius.

Persoual Expeand Wanderings iu and about the Island of Mau-

Haudsoniely Illustrated.

Pike.

:

8vo, Cloth,.«;3 £0.

Van-Lennep's Bible Lands. Bible Lauds: their Modern Customs and Manners Illustrative of Script-

By

ure.

the Rev. Heniiy

Van-Lennep, D.D.

J.

wards of 350

Wood Eugravings and two

Cloth, $5 00

Sheep, $6 00

,•

;

Half

Illustrated

Colored Maps.

Avitli

up-

838 pp., 8vo,

Calf, $8 00.

Macgregor's Rob Roy on the Jordan. The Rob Roy on the Jordan, Canoe Cruise J.

Nile, Red Sea, and Gennesareth, etc. A and Egypt, and the Waters of Damascus. By With Maps and Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Cloth,

iu Palestine

Macgregor, M.A.

'

$2 50.

Bartlelt's

From Egypt

From Egypt Country.

to

Palestine.

to Palestine, through Sinai, the Wilderness,

and the South

Observations of a Journey made with Special Reference to the

By S. C. Baktlett, D.D., LL.D., President of Dartmoutli College, and lately Professor in the Chicago Theological SemHistory of the Israelites.

With

inary.

Ma^is and Illustrations.

Schliemann's

8vo, Cloth,

$i3

50.

Ilios.

The Results of Researches Troy and throughout the Troad iu the years 1871-'72-'73-'78-'79 including an Autobiography of the Author. By Dr. Henuy Sciiliemanx, F.S.A., F.R.I. British Architects; Author of "Troy and its Remains," "Myceuse," etc. With a Preface, Appendices, and Notes by Professors Rudolf Virchow, Max Miiller, A. H. Sayce, J. P. Mahaffy, H. Brugscli-Bey, P. Aschersou, M. A. Postolaccas, M. E. Buruouf, Mr. F. Calvert, and Mr. A. J. DuflQeld. With Maps, Plans, and about 1800 Ilios,

the City and Country of the Trojans.

and Discoveries on the

Site of ;

Illustrations.

Imperial 8vo, Cloth, $12 00; Half Morocco, §15

00.

Schliemann's Troja. Troja.

Results of the Latest Researches and Discoveries on the Site of

Homer's Troy, and iu the Heroic Tumuli and other Sites, made in the year 1882, and a Narrative of a Journey iu the Troad in 1881. By Dr. Henry Schliemanx, Author of " Ilios," etc. Preface by Professor A. H. Sayce.

With

1.50

Woodcuts and

4

Cloth, $7 50; Half Morocco, $10 00.

Maps and

Plans,

pp.

xl., 434.

8vo,

Valaahle Works of Exploration and Adventure.

6

Myers's Remains of Lost Empires. Remains of Lost Empires: Sketclics of the Ruins of P;ilmyra, Nineveli, Babylon, autl Persepolis, with some Notes ou India and the Cashmcrian Himalayas. By P. V. N. Myers, A.M. Illustrated, bvo, Cloth, .$3 CO.

Land of Moab

Tristram's

The Land of Moab Travels and Discoveries on the East Side of Ihe Dead Sea and the Jordan. By H. B. Tkistram, M.A., L.L.D., F.R.S., Honorary Canon of Durham. With a Chapter on the Persian Palace of MaWith Map and Illustrations. Crown shita, by James Fergusox, F.R.S. :

8vo, Cloth, $2 50.

Cesnola's Cyprns. Cyprns:

its

Ancient

By

General Louis

Sciences, Turin etc.

With

;

Palma

A

Tombs, and Temples.

Cities,

searches and Excavations during

Ten

di Cesnola,

Member

of the Royal

Hon. Member of the Royal Society of

Portrait,

Maps, and 400 Illustrations.

Tops and Uncut Edges,

.$7

50

;

Half

dition,

Academy

Litei'atnre,

of

London,

8vo, Clotli, Extra, Gilt

Calf, $10 GO.

Layard's Discoveries at Nineveh. Discoveries among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon Armenia, Kurdistan, and the Desert

Narrative of Re-

Years' Residence in that Island.

:

;

with Travels in

being the result of a Second Expe-

undertaken for the Trustees of the British Museum. By Austen With Maiis, Plans, and Illustration, fe'vo. Cloth,

Hexry Layard, M.P.

U

00.

Davis's Cartilage. Carthage and her Remains: being an Account of the Excavations and Researches ou the Site of the Phceuician Metropolis, in Africa and other Adjacent Places. Conducted under the Auspices of Her Majesty's Govern-

ment. By Dr. N. Davis, F.R.G.S. Profusely Illustrated with Maps, Wood8vo, Cloth,$4 00; Half Calf, $6 25. cuts, Chromo-Lithographs, etc., etc.

Tiiomson's Vova«c of The Voyage

tlic

'''Challcn«er.''

of the "Challenger.''

Tlie

Atlantic:

General Results of the Voyage during the Year of the Year 1876. trait of the

trations.

2

Author,

187.3

An Account and

tlie

of the

Early Part

By Sir C. Wyville Thomson, F.R.S. With a Pormany Colored Maps, Temperature Chart.s, and Illus-

vols., 8vo, Cloth,

$12 00.

Spry's Cruise of the ''Cliallenocr." The Cruise of Her Majesty's Ship "Challenger." Voyages over many By W. J. J. Spry, R.N. With Maps and Seas, Scenes in many Lands. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 00. Illustrations.

Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure.

The Boy

By

Travellers.

Tlios.

W. Knox.

Six Parts.

Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $-3 00 each. Piirt I. Adventures of Two Youths iu a Jouruey to Japan and China. II. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Siam and Java. Descriptions of Cochin-China, Cambodia, Sumatra, and the Mahvy Archipelago. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth,.$3 50.

Part

With

Part

Two Youths

Adventures of

III.

in a

Journey

With Descriptious of Borneo, the Philippiuc

India.

Part IV.

Two

Adventures of

to

Islands,

Ceylon and and Burmali.

Youths

in a

Journey to Egypt and the

Two Youths

in a

Jouruey through Central

Holy Laud. Part V.

Adveutures of

Africa.

Part VI. America.

Adventures of {Ncarhj

Two

Youths

iu a

Journey througli South

lieadi/.)

Hunting Adventures on Land and Sea. By Thos. W. Knox. Two Parts. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, S2 50 each. The Young Nimrods in North America. I. Part II. The Young Nimrods Around the World. Part

Knox's Voyage of the "Vivian." The Voyage

of the

Adventures of llhistrated.

"Vivian"

Two Youths

to the North Pole

iu the

Opeu Polar

and Beyond.

Sea.

Being the

By Thomas W. Knox.

8vo, Cloth, $2 50.

Du

Chaillu's Land of the Midnight Sun. The Land of the Midnight Suu. Summer and Winter Journeys through Sweden, Norway, Lapland, and Northern Finland. By Paul B. Du Chaillu. With Map and 235 Illustrations. In Two Volumes. 8vo, Cloth, $7 50; Half Calf, $12 00.

Laniont's Seasons with the Sea-Horses. Seasons with the Sea-IIorses; Seas. Clotli,

By James Lamont,

or.

Sporting Adventures iu the Northern

F.G.S.

With Map aud

Illustrations.

8vo,

$3 00.

Tyson's Arctic Experiences. Arctic Experiences: containing Captain George E.Tyson's Wonderful Drift on the Ice-Floe, n History of the Polaris Expedition, the Cruise of tlie Tigress, and Eescue of the Polaris Survivors. To which is added a General Arctic Chronology. Edited by E. Vale. With Map and numer-

ous Illustrations.

8vo, Cloth, $4 00.

Valuable IVorliS of Exploration and Adventure.

8

Hayes's Land of Desolation. The Land

of Desolation

:

being a Personal Narrative of Observation and

By Isaac I. Hayes, M.D., Author With Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 75.

Adventure ia Greenland.

Open Polar

Sea," etc.

"The

of

Davis's Niiiirod of the Sea. Nimrod of the Sea or, the American Whaleman. By William M. Davis. With many Illustrations. 12ino, Cloth, $2 00. ;

Busli's Reindeer,

Dogs, and Snow-shoes.

Keiudeer, Dogs, 'o''> and Snow-shoes

made

ploratious

:

a Journal of Siberian Travel and Ex-

in the Years 186.V67.

By Riciiaud

Kusso-Americau Telegraph Expedition. $3

Illustrated.

J. Busii, late

of the

Cro\YU 8vo, Cloth,

00.

Bishop Haven's Mexico. Our Next-Door Neighbor. Recent Sketches of Mexico. By the Rev. Gilbert Haven, D.D., Bishop in the M. E. Church. With Maps and 8vo, Cloth, $3 50.

Illustrations.

Bishop's Old Mexico and her Lost Provinces.

A

Journey

in

Mexico, Southern California, and Arizona, by

Way

of Cuba.

By William Henry Bishop, Author of " Detmold," " The House of a Merchant Prince," etc. With numerous Illustrations, chiefly from Sketches by the Author. Sqiilicr's

00.

Nicaragua.

Nicaragua:

its

People, Scenery, Monuments, Resources, Condition, and

Proposed Canal. Squier.

12mo, Cloth, $2

With One Hundred Maps and

Illustrations.

By

E. G.

8vo, Cloth, $4 00.

Squier's Peru. Peru

:

Incidents of Travel and Exploration in the

Land

of

tlie

E. G. Squier, M.A., F.S.A., late U. S. Commissioner to Peru.

lucas.

By

Illustrated.

8vo, Cloth, $5 00.

Orton's Andes and the Amazon. The Andes aud the Amazon or. Across the Continent of South America. By James Orton, Ph.D., late Professor of Natural History in Vassar College, Poughkeepsie, N. Y. Corresponding Member of the Academy of Natural Sciences, Philadelphia, aud of the Lyceum of Natural History, N. Y. Third Edition, Revised and Enlarged, containing Notes of a Second Journey Across the Continent from Parii to Lima and Lake Titicaca. With two Maps and numerous Illustrations. Bvo, Cloth, $3 00. ;

;

Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure.

Wliyiiipcr's

9

Alaska.

Travel and Adventure in the Territory of Alaska, formerly Eussiau America— now ceded to tlie United States and in various Other Parts



of the North Pacitic, trations.

Crown

By FREDEniCK Whymper.

With Map and

Illus-

8vo, Cloth, $2 50.

IngcrsoH's Knocking Round llic Rockies. Knocking Eound the Eockies. By Ernest Ingersoll.

8vo, Cloth, $2 00,

Burton's City of

tlie Saints. The City of the Saints; and Across the Eocky Mountains to California. By Captain Eiciiard F. Burton, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Eoyal Geographical Societies of France and England; H. M. Consul in West Africa. Maps and numerous Illustrations. 8vo, Clotii, $3 50.

Nordlioff's California. California: a

Book

for Travellers

A New Edition. With Maps and Hayes's

New

New

and

By Charles Nordiioff.

Settlers.

8vo, Cloth, $2 00.

Illustrations.

Colorado,

Colorado and the Sante Fe Trail.

By

A. A.

Hayes,

Jr.

Illustrated.

Svo, Cloth, $2 50.

Short's

North x\mericans of Antiquity.

The North Americans of Antiquity. of Civilization Considered.

By John

Their Origin, Migrations, and Type T. Short.

Illustrated.

Bvo, Cloth,

$3 00.

Murphy's Sporting Adventures in the Far West. Sporting Adventures in the Far West.

12mo, Cloth, $1

By

J.

M. Murphy.

Illustrated.

50.

Gillmore's Prairie and Forest. Prairie

and Forest: a Description of the Game of North America, with

By Parker Gillmore.

Personal Adventures in their Pursuit. trated.

Illus-

12rao, Cloth, $1 50.

Hazard's Santo Domingo. Santo Domingo, Past and Present; with a Glance at Hayti. By Samuel Hazard, Maps and Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $3 50. Griffis's

The Mikado's Empire.

History of Japan, from 660 B.C. to 1872 A.D., and Personal Experiences, Ohservations, and Studies in Japan, 1870-1874. New Edition, with a Supplementary Chapter on Japan in 1883. By William E. GiUFFis, A.M., late of the Imperial University of Tokio, Japan, Copiously Illustrated. Svo, Cloth, $4 00 Half Calf, $6 25.

The Mikado's Empire.

;

Valuahle Works of SJxploi'ation and Adventure.

10

ArnoUVs Through

Pcrsiii

by Caravan.

By Arthur Arnold.

Through Persia by Caravan.

12ino, Cloth, $1 75.

Darwin's Voyage of a Naturalist. Journal of Eesearches iuto the Natural Historj- and Geology of the Countries Visited

during the Voyage of H.M.S. "Beagle" Round the World,

Command of Captain Fitzro\', R.N. By Charles Darwin, M.A., F.R.S. New Edition. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $2 00. under the

What What

Mr. Darwin Saw. Mr. Darwin

With

gle."

Saw

in his

Voyage round the World

8vo, Cloth,

Illustrations.

in the

Ship " Bea-

p 00.

Benjamin's Atlantic Islands. The Atlantic Islands Benjamin.

and Pleasure.

as Resorts for Health

By

S. G.

W.

8vo, Cloth, $3 00.

Illustrated.

Biart's Involuntary Voyage.

An

By LuciEN

Involuntary^ Voyage.

Biart.

Illustrated.

12mo, Cloth,

$1 25.

Adventures of a Young Naturalist. The Adventures of a Young Naturalist. By Lucien Biart. Adapted by Parker Gillmore. With 117 Illustrations.

Biart's

.

Edited and 12nio, Cloth,

$1 75.

Sniiles's

Round Rail

Round the World.

the World: including a Residence in Victoria, and a Journey by

acro.ss

North America. 12mo, Cloth, $1

lustrated.

By a Boy.

Edited by Samuel Smiles.

Symonds's Sketches and Studies

in

Sketches and Studies in Southern Europe.

MONDs.

In

Two

Volumes.

Reinhart.

8vo,

Southern Europe. By John Addington Sy-

Square 16mo, Cloth, $4

Lathrop's Spanish Vistas. Spanish Vistas. By George Parsons S.

00.

Latiirop. Illustrated by Charles

Ornamental Cover, Gilt Edges, $3

00.

Boughton's Sketching Rambles in Holland. Sketching Rambles in Holland. By George H. Boughton, Beautifully and Profusely Illustrated with W^ood-engravings from ings by the Author and

Il-

50.

Edwin

A. Abbey.

Proofs, Japanese Paper, without Letters.

With Two Pages

A.R.A.

Draw-

Artists' Full-page

xvi., 342.

Square, Bvo,

Illuminated Cloth, Uncut Edges, and Gilt Top, $5 00; BrownCloth, Uncut Edges and Gilt Top, $5 00; Full Gilt Edges, ^5 25.

Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure.

The Howjuljl

Ciirtis's

The Howadjl

Syria.

in

By Geokge

in Syria.

11

AVilliaji

12mo, Cloth,

Curtis.

$1 50.

China and Japan.

Olipliaiil's

Narrative of the Earl of Elgin's Mission to China an(lJapan,iu the Years By Laukexce Oliphaxt, Private Secretary to Lord Elgin. 1857, '58, '59. 8vo, Cloth,

Illustrated.

"

Newman's "From Dan

p 50.

From Dan

lo

to Beersheba;" or.

Bcersheba."

The Laud

of rroinise as

it

now Appears.

Including a Description of the Boundaries, Topography, Agriculture, Antiquities, Cities, and Present Inhabitants of that Wonderful Land. Witii Illustrations of the Eeniaikable Accuracy of the Sacred Writers in their Allusions to their Native Country.

Maps

aild

Engravings.

By

the Eev.

J. P.

Newmax, D.D.

Pinio, Cloth, %l 75.

Philippine Islands. Twenty Years in the PliiUppines. By Paul de la

Gii'oniere's

and Extended by the Author expressly 12mo, Cloth,

Drake's

Ijl

Gi'ROXiIire.

for this Translation.

Kevised

Illustrated.

50.

New

England Coast.

Nooks ami Corners of the New England Coast. By Samuel Adams Drake. With numerous Illustrations. Square 8vo, Cloth, $3 50; Half Calf, $5 75.

Drake's Heart of ihe While Moniitains. By Samuel Adams Drake, Author Tlie Heart of the White Mountains. of " Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast." Illustrated by W. Hamilton Gibsox, Author

of " Pastoral Days."

4to,

Illuminated Cloth,

Tourist's Edition, $3 00.

Gilt Etlges, §7 50.

Dilkc's Greater Britain. Greater Britain

:

a Kecord of Travel in English-speaking Countries dur-

ing 1863 and 1867. trations.

By Charles Wextwoutii Dilke.

12mo, Cloth, $1

Maps and

Illus-

00.

Lady Belcher's Mnliny of the Bonnty. Some Account

of the Mutineers of the

Pitcairu and Norfolk Islands. Cl-oth,

,«il

50.

Bounty and

By Lady Belcher.

their Descendants in Illustrated.

12mo,

Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure.

12

Waring's Tyrol, and the Skirt of the Alps. Tyrol, and the .Skirt of the Alps.

By GeokG2

E.

Waking,

Jr.

Illus-

8vo, Cloth, $3 00.

trated.

Dixon's Free Russia. Free Kussia. By W. IIkpwortii Dixox, Author of " Her With Two Illustrations. Crowu «vo, $i! OU. er," etc.

Prime's Round

By Edward D.

Crown

Illustratious.

Tow-

World.

liic

Arouud tho World.

Majesty's

With immeroua

G. Pkime, D.D.

8vo, Cloth, $3 00.

Hcpwortli's Starboard and Port. starboard and Port: tho "Xettic" Along Shore.

A

Cruise aloug the Coasts of Maine and Labrador.

By

WORTH.

West

Indies.

At Last: a Christmas

the

West

By Paul

of the Dwarfs.

12mo, Cloth, $1

Country. By Paul

Cliaillu's Gorilla

12mo, Cloth, $1

Cliaillu's

My

-with Life iu the Great Sahara, etc.

Wild

By Paul

B.

Du

and Sketches of the

Chaillu.

Illlustra-

Life.

Life under the Equator.

12mo, Cloth, §1

Du

Illustrated.

12uio, Cloth, $1 50.

Cliaillu's

Wild

B. Dl" Ciiaillc.

x^pingi Kini^doni.

Chase of the Ostrich, Hyena,

Du

Illustrated.

50.

My Apingi Kingdom: ted.

Ciiaillu.

B. Dl'

50.

stories of the Gorilhx Country.

Du

By Charles Kixgsley.

Indies,

Country of the Dwarfs.

Cliaillu's

The Country

Du

in

12mo, Cloth, $1 50.

Illustrated.

Du

Yacht

II. llicp-

12nio, Cloth, $1 75.

Illustrated.

Kingslcy's

Siiinnicrs

Geoiigi:

Cliaillu's

By Paul

B.

Du

Ciiaillu.

Illustrated.

50.

Lost

the Jun«Ie. By Paul B. Du Chaillu,

iu

Lost in the Jungle.

Illustrated.

12mo,

Cloth, $1 50.

Published by tS^ IIaepeu

&

HAEPER & BEOTHEPS, Kew

Tosk.

send any of the above icorhs h-j mail, postage prepaid, part of the United States or Canada, o.i receipt of the pric:.

Br.oTiiKKS

u'ill

to

any

Related Documents

Part Ii Paramore Drums
January 2021 1
The Belgian Congo
January 2021 0
Congo History
January 2021 2

More Documents from "wsd627"

Congo 1960 Et Son Bilan
January 2021 3
Workbook #3
February 2021 0
February 2021 0