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Pl anno1 I r onmonger yL i s t Dr a wi ngofl i dopens howi ngdr a wpus hedf or wa r d a ndba c kl ega nds i del egsf ol deda wa y
2Ha f el eDes kHi nges Br a s s13mm 20mm 7no4Br a s ss c r ews25mm 10Ca r r i a geBol t sM6x75m ( c utt ol engt hwer enec es s a r y )
1Coa c hBol tM6x80mm
5Wi ngNut sM6
6F ema l eM6Nobs
8F l a tPennyWa s her s
2Pr ongedT eeNut sM6
1Ba c kF l a pHi ngeBr a s s40mm x30mm
3RubberWa l k i ngs t i c kends S ma l l s i z e20mm
2Ra wpl ugMul t i Pur pos e F i x i ngsRubber sf orl oc k i ng Dr a wi ngBoa r edAdj us t mentmec ha ni s m
Br a s sPl a t ec utoutof 0. 5m Br a s spl a t e 50mm x16mm 4no4Br a s ss c r ews12mm 2Mi r r orpl a t e38mm t o xa dj us t menta r mt oma i nboxl i d
8No6Br a s ss c r ews25mm 6No8Br a s ss c r ews25mm 2No8Br a s sRa i s edHea d32mm
2Doubl eBa l l Ca t c h Br a s s42mm 8no4Br a s ss c r ews12mm
120mm wa s her 1Ha ndl ef orl i d 2s i deT oggl ea ndpl a t ec a s eCa t c hes
4Rubberends18mm ©2013Phi l Wi l l et t s downl oa deda twww. phi l s a r t . c o. ukema i l pa i nt box @phi l s a r t . c o. uk T hes epl a nsa r ec opy r i ghtpr ot ec t edunderPhi l Wi l l et t s .Nodupl i c a t i onoft hes epl a nsa r ea l l owwi t houtt heex pr es sper mi s s i onofPhi l Wi l l et t s
Pl anno2Set t i ngoutDovet ai l sEngl i s hType 1”Ac r os s
Di v i dei nt oev ennumber s6-8-10-12E CT
Penc el l i ne ha l fwa y offt hi c k nes s t i mberus ed
2
1
3
5
4
6
No1 S et t i ngouta ngl ef ordov et a i l s 1-6f ors of twood
Ma r k i ngga ugel i ne
Nowdi v i deonewhol edi v i t i oni nt ot wo=1/ 2pi n 1/ 2 1/ 2 pi n pi n
No2 1/ 2pi ngoest oea c hend
17f orha r dwood
6”down or 7” down
goodmi ddl eoft her oa d a ngl ei s15
mi ddl e 5”down
No3
No7s et i ngoutpi nsf r om T a i l s S i deofbox( us i ngt hes i dea sat empl a t e) T hi si sl a y edont heendoft i mbert ha twi l l beus edf ort hef r ontoft heboxa s s hown, ma r ka r oundt het a i l s
Nowus es a medi v i deopt a i nedi nno1a nddi v i des t a r t i nga t1/ 2pi n
1
2
3
4
1/ 2pi n
5 1/ 2pi n
No4
Nowputdov et a i l a ngl eonnewdi v i s i ons
No5
F r ontofbox( a ndba c k ) ma c k i ngoutt hepi ns
Nows ha dei na r eat ober emov ed( Cutont hes el i nes )
T a i l st obe l ef ti n
No6 pi nst obe c utout
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Pl anno3 1 7 mm( 1 1 / 1 6 ” )
3 5 mm( 13/ 8“ )
2 9 mm( 11/ 8 ” )
4 2 mm( 15/ 8 ” )
1 9 mm( 1 / 5 8 ” ) 5 1 mm( 2 ” ) 6 5 mm ) ( 21/ 2 ”
7 6 mm( 3 ” ) 1 4 0mm( 51/ 2“ )
2 9 0 mm( 1 13/ 8“ )
L i de x t e n s i o np i e c e s
1 4 0 mm( 51/ 2 ” )
1 7 1 mm( 63/ 4“ ) 3 2 mm( 11/ 4 ” )
5 1 mm( 2 ” ) 2 9 mm( 11/ 8“ )
2 9 0 mm 1 13 / 8 ” )
1 2 mm( 1 / 2 ” ) 6 7 mm ) ( 25/ 8 ” 2 5 mm( 1 ” )
6 7 mm( 25/ 8 ” )
2 0 mm ( ” ) 3 / 4 3 9 0 mm ” ) ( 1 53/ 8
2 0 mm( 3 / 4 ’ )
2 5 mm ( 1 ” )
1 2 7 mm ( 5 ” )
2 5 mm( 1 ” ) 4 0 6 mm ( 1 6 ” )
4 0 7 mm ( 1 6 ” )
4 2 5 mm ” ) ( 1 63/ 4
2 7 0 mm ” ) ( 1 05/ 8
3 5 mm( 13/ 8 ” )
1 6 mm( 5 / 8 ” )
2 5 mm( 1 ” )
4 2 mm( 15/ 8 ” )
6 4 mm ” ) ( 21/ 2
7 5 mm ( 27/ ” ) 8 2 2 mm ” ) ( 7 / 8
2 2 2 mm ( 83/ ) 4 ”
1 9 0 mm ) ( 71/ 2 ”
6 7 mm ) ( 25/ 8 ”
B r a c ep i e c e s a n d b a c kl e g
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6 6 m m m m ” ) “ ) ( ( 1 / 1 4 / 4
8 2 0 mm ( 3 21/ 4 ) ”
ll P anno4
T opJ oi nt erpi ec e 12mm ( 1/2”) 5mm ( 3/ 16” ) 5mm ( 3/ 16” ) 5mm ( 3/ 16” ) Cutpennywa s her t o tgr oov e
80mm ( 31/8” )
22mm ( 7/ 8” ) 12mm ( 1/ 2” ) 3mm ( 1/ 8” )
T opdr a wi ngboa r dBot t om s a medi meni s ons butl onger
25mm ( 1” ) 12mm ( 1/ 2” )
45mm ( 13/4” )
45mm ( m13/4” )
70mm ( 23/4”)
Dr a wi ngboa r da dj us t mentpi ec es
41mm ( 15/8”)32mm 22mm ) 11/4” ( ) 7/ 8”
45mm ) ( 13/4” 8mm 25mm ( 1” ) ) ( 1/ 4”
l oc k i ngpi ec esa ndt ongue s howi ngr uwpl ugr ubber x i ngpr ongedt eenut M6 m6bol ta ndf ema l ek nob
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Pl anno5
Dr a wl i ne
Mea s ur ementM6hol e f orl eg29mm ( 11/8” ) 10mm s l ota ndgr ov ef ordr a wBr a s st ube
60mm ( 23/8” )
20mm ( 3/ 4” ) a s st ubek noc k ed 10mm br ondowl e
Dr a ws howi ngDov t a i l t y pet hr oughdov t a i l f orba c k a nddr a worL a pdov t a i l f orf r ontofdr a w Pos i t i onofbr a s sBa c kF l a pehi nges c r ewed t ohi ngeendbl oc kpi ec e22mm x50mm x67mm l ong x2”x25/8” ) l ong ( 7/ 8”
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46mm ( 13/ 4” )
197mm ( 73/4” )
Pl anno6
12mm ) ( 1/ 2”
19mm ( 3/ 4” )
2bl oc k ss i z e70mm ( 23/4” ) ) x32mm ( 11/4”
70mm ( 23/4”)
Dr a w473mm ) ( 185/8”
T wobl oc k ss c r ewedont oea c hs i de oft het opofl i d, t hes ebl oc k ss l i dei n f r ontoft hedr a wba c ka ns ol oc kt he dr a wi npl a c ewhent hel i di sc l os ed 12mm ) ( 1/ 2” 57mm ( 21/4” )
Dr a w340mm ) ( 133/8”
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Pl anno7 S howi nghowt hema i nboxi sgl uedupus i ngt wos a s hc r a mps
Ma i nboc k ss howi ngt het wos i depi ec esgl uedi nt ot hebot t om oft hema i nbox
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Pl anno8 381mm ( 15” )
127mm ( 5” ) 48mm ( 17/8” ) 134mm ( 51/4” )
113mm ) ( 41/2”
134mm ) ( 51/4”
495mm ) ( 191/2”
S c a l eI nc hes 13/4” ) 127mm45mm ( ( 5” )
S c a l eMet r i c
58mm ( 21/4” )
©2013Phi l Wi l l et t s downl oa deda twww. phi l s a r t . c o. ukema i l pa i nt box @phi l s a r t . c o. uk T hes epl a nsa r ec opy r i ghtpr ot ec t edunderPhi l Wi l l et t s .Nodupl i c a t i onoft hes epl a nsa r ea l l owwi t houtt heex pr es sper mi s s i onofPhi l Wi l l et t s
127mm ( 5” )
Making the Phil’s French Easel.
I designed and made this easel, it is based on the French easel design but quite a bit stronger than the easel that you can buy in the shops today. My easel is made out of pine using the standard timber size that can be obtained from most good timber merchants. The main box was made from 25 x 175mm (7”x1”) PSE finished size 20 x 152mm The draw that is housed in the main box was made from (19 x 73mm (2 ¾”x 5/8”) The legs out of 75 x 50mm(3”x2”) PSE And the leg extensions out of 25x25mm (1”x1”) PSE All of this as I said can be brought of the peg as standard timber sizes, remember that PSE (Planed Square Edge) is usually 5mm (1/4 ”) smaller so 3” x 2” will be 2 ¾” x 1 ¾” finished size. The main thing is to choose straight-‐grained clear timber (as far as possible free from knots) The main Box Finished timber size 20x152mm (3/4” x 6”) 2 at 380mm (15”) Ends. 2 at 495mm (19 1/2“) Sides. 2 at 476mm (18 ¾“) Side inside box pieces. The first thing to make is the box section this includes the lid, which is later cut out by hand, on a very fine circular saw. Start out by setting out the box using dovetail joints as shown in the plans note that the tails and pins are equal follow the instructions as shown in the extra setting out sheet. Assemble the dovetail joints dry to check that the joints fit and adjust accordingly. Now cut out the stopped housing joints on the inside of the end pieces, I used a router for this finishing with a chisel as necessary, see plans. The stopped housing is 10mm deep (3/8”) and 57mm long (2 1/4”) the draw will slide on top of the 19mm timber that will ultimately fit in these housing joints. Before the box section is glued up the grove for the draw runner is cut into the Insides of the box section this is cut using a router and router fence, this grove must be large enough for the dowel and brass tube (That will be knocked onto the dowel) to slide along, this dowel will be glued on to the side of the draw and acts as a draw slide and draw stop see plans for size and length of cut. Glue up the box section cramping up and checking that it is square and not in twist, use sash cramps in each of the four corners to do this. (see Plan no 7) Scrap pieces of timber are used to prevent the cramps from bruising the box sides, making sure that the scrap timber blocks do not hinder the tail and pins of the dovetail joint from being clamped up good and true. Now cut and fit the two sidepieces and glue in to the stopped housing joint, pull these together with a sash cramp, leave cramped in place until glue is dry. Don’t forget to wipe all surplus glue off box. Clean up the dovetails using a smoothing plane. The next thing to fit is the 3.6mm ply top and bottom pieces notice that the ply is rebate into the top and bottom of the main box and glued. The best way to fit the ply is to cut a rebate in the top and bottom using a rebate cutter in the router
make this rebate just slightly deeper than the ply this is important for cleaning up (the last thing you want is to remove any of the ply veneer.) When the two-‐bottom ply is glued up fit the top ply in the same why wipe away surplus glue with a damp cloth. I used 1” brass pines to secure the ply in place. Now it is time to cut the lid from the main box using a fine circular saw clean up the lid and the box from which the lid was cut of when you are satisfied that the lid is a good fit cut and fix the hinges you will need a pair of Hafele Desk Hinges size 13mmx102mm brass, use 1” number 6 brass screws.
The Draw Plan no 7 and no 5.
The draw that fits into the main box is made from (19mm x 73mm) 13mm 68mm PSE (1/2” x 2 3/4”). This is cut down to 45mm (1 ¾”) deep front and side pieces, the back is 65mm (2 5/8”) deep, the reason for this extra depth at the back is to prevent the draw from opening when the easel is closed this is achieved by two blocks that are screwed onto each side of the lid, these blocks slide in front of the back of the draw thus preventing it from opening when the lid is closed. The draw has through or box dovetail joint at the back and lap or drawer dovetail at the front, the reason for a lap dovetail at the front is so the end grain only shows on the side, and is not visible at the front of the draw. There is a dowel drilled into the sides of the draw this must correspond to the stopped housing joint that was cut into the sides of the main box before the main box was assembled, this dowel is covered by a 10mm brass tube see plans. The draw has a 3.6mm ply base this is fixed after the draw is assembled using glue and sash cramp described in the main box notes. The two side legs. Plan no 8 and Plan no 3. Cut the legs to length as shown in the plans. The finished size is 42x42mm (15/8”sq). There are two channels cut into each leg, one is for the M6 bolt to slide up and down that is used to tighten up the adjusting piece. The second is the channel for the adjusting piece to slide up and down,this is used to adjust the height of the legs for uneven ground ECT. Start by cutting out the channel for the 20mm (3/4”) square-‐adjusting piece. Measure 140mm (5 ½”) from the top of the leg and mark this on the leg side. The channel must not go past this measurement using a router and a 10mm (3/8”) cutter cut out the channel going deeper very gradually about ¼” at a time, until you get the correct depth 30mm (1 1/8”). Now repeat this process on the other side. You will end up with a channel 30mm deep and 20mm wide. Using a 6mm (1/4”) cutter cut out a grove on the opposite side of the channel that you have just cut this grove is in the middle of the leg starting at 165mm (6 ½”) from the top and leaving 126mm (5”) on the bottom. Now cut the end block 12mm (1/2”) 45mm deep (1 ¾”) wide 90mm (3 1/2”) long. This is rebated and glued on the bottom of the leg it is good ideas to make this block a little wider so that when the glue has dried you can plane it flush with the leg see plans. The top of the leg has to be cut at 72 degrees angle see plans for measurements’ so the front legs spread out woods see plans. Now finish the legs of by putting a half round on the edges and sand up. Repeat this process on the second front leg. As you will see from the plans a 6mm hole is drilled into top of the leg through this angle the hole must be drilled at 90 degrees from the front face of the leg and
70mm (2 3/4”) from the top of the leg, this is to give the leg strength for when it is clamped in place by the wing nuts. To allow the leg to lie flat on the box section (when folded away) another 6mm hole is drilled at 90degrees from the 70 degrees angle, I used a 1/8” wood working gouge instead of a drill as I think that there is more control doing it the old fashion way in cutting this hole, see plans.
Completing the leg
The square-‐adjustment piece is now fitted into the channel that you have cut into the legs if your measurements are right this square piece should slide into the channel. First cut a round on the top of this square piece of timber. Now plane a long sloping chamfer on each corner on the bottom and cut a circular peg so that the rubber 18mm tubular tips will push on, it must be a tight fit otherwise it may drop off when in use. Now slide the square-‐adjustment piece into the leg and mark the position for the bolt, you may have to open up the end of the leg so that the rubber 18mm fits into the channel see plans, do this with a round surform. Remove the adjustment piece drill for the bolt reassemble and push the dolt into the 6mm hole, put a Penney washer on the bolt and wined on the wing nut or a 6m female knob on to the bolt, the leg with the square adjustment piece is know completed.
The back leg Plan no 5 and Plan no 3
Make the back leg exactly as the front legs using 42mm square timber and 20mm square-‐adjustment piece sliding into the former as described above. However there are two sidepieces bolted and secured by a M6 Coach bolt 80mm long Penney washer and wing nut on the top of the main leg section, this Coach bolt must be flush with the side piece timber so that all the pieces will go into the main box section when folded up. I ground the head on the inside of the coach bolt I used into a counter sink chamfer so that it would lie flush with the outside timber piece see plans. The top of these sidepieces are fixed to a small block of timber, these two sidepieces are housed glued and screwed to this small block. This small block of timber is fixed to the back of the main box using one brass back flap hinge open 60mm 38mm finish. There is also a piece of timber 54mm long (2 1/2”) 32mm wide (1 ¼”) and 6mm thick (1/4’’) this piece of timber is glued and screwed onto the top of the main leg section, the purpose of this timber is to securer the leg in place when open see the plans. There is also a brass plate screwed on to the top of the sidepiece this keeps the main leg in place when the box easel in folded up. There is a brace to hold the back leg in place when open this is made up of two timber pieces size 35mm wide (1 3/8”) 10mm thick (3/8”) and one 380mm long (15”) and 420mm (16 ½”) screwed together by one number 10 brass counter sunk screw 25mm (1”) long, the point is filed flush with the side piece timber. The top end of this brace is bolted to the main box using a M6 bolt washer and wing nut. All this sounds complicated but it is made clear in the plans.
Adjustment Main Box Lid Holder Plan no 4
This adjustment lid holder is made in exactly the same way as the main front legs; the difference is the length and the size of the timber. The finished size of the two main sidepieces is 30mm x 34mm (1 3/16” x 1 3/8”). The timber that fits and slides into the channel cut into the main sidepieces is 15mmX15mm (5/8” x 5/8”). This timber is held in place at the bottom by a piece of 3.6mm ply cut and glued into the main side piece, the size of this ply is 25mm x 30mm (1” x 1 3/16”).
The top of the main sidepieces is fixed to the lid of the main box by two brass mirror plates, one plat screwed for each main sidepiece. The bottom of the 15mm square slide piece is fixed to the main box by one brass dome screw for each side peice the plans make this clear, the lid is locked in place to the angle required by one 6M bolt Penney washer and 6M female knob.
Adjustment sliding Drawing Board Holder This slides onto the lid of the main box, the main drawing board holder is made from 80mm (3 1/8”) by 42mm (1 5/8”) clear pine. You can make it out of three sections of timber the Back 42mm X 45mm is glued onto the base 45mm x 22mm, the base is then glued onto the front section 30mm x 15mm. As you can see from the plans the top drawing board holder is the same section as the bottom but only 203mm long (8’’) were as the bottom is 432mm long (17”). The sliding section of the board holder is made up of three pieces of timber, two outside pieces hold the third in place which slides between these outside pieces, this is achieved by means of two 5mm tongs cut into the middle timber and a grove to match these tongs cut into the outside pieces. The two outside timber pieces are glued and screwed to the bottom drawing board holder, and the middle section is screwed onto the much shorter top board holder. There is also a timber-‐supporting piece that is glued and screwed into top of the two outside timber pieces this will be made clear in the plans. The middle sliding timber is locked into place by means of a 6M bolt and penny washer cut into the shape of an ellipse. As you can see from the plans there is a slot cut into the middle section and a rebated grove cut on top of this slot this enables this middle piece of timber to slide up and down to hold the drawing board in place. On the outside of the lid of the main box there are two timbers pieces screwed by four brass screws, these timbers have a rebate cut into the outside edge, this rebate is for a tong that is cut into the locking device that is glued onto the ends of the main drawing board holder (Bottom of this holder) see plans how this worked but when you fix the screw drill a 2mm hole into the timber to prevent the points of the nut from splitting the locking section see plans.
Setting out dovetail English type. See Plan no 2.
The type of dovetail I used for my easel is the English type this means that the tails or sockets are the same size as the pines this makes a very strong dovetail joint. I always use inches when setting out this type of joint, as it is easier. As I said the sockets and pins are the same size so to achieve this the setting out is done not on the marking gouge line (as normal) but done on a half way line marked out with a pencil see No 2 leaflet. Now divide this pencil line with dividers into equal spacing so if the timber you are using is 5” x 1” then divide the width 5” into 6 equal spacing’s, the equal spacing must always be in even number so according to board size divide into 6 or 8 or 10 ETC equal spacing’s. Now divide the first and last division into half making half a division see no 2 and no 3 Plan no 2 in the leaflet.
With the divides set (to 6 equal spacing’s) put point of dividers on the halfway mark and strike of divisions you will end up with 5 divisions and one half space at first and last see no 4 in the leaflet. Now put dovetail slop or angle on all these marks as shown on no 5 Plan 2 in the leaflet. Mark out all the dovetail pins that will be cut out, now cut out all these pins and use this timber as a template to mark out the rest of the dovetail. Remember you will end up with tails and no pins on this piece of timber and by putting this cut out timber on the end grain of the 6” x 1” (using this as a template) used for the front and back of the box, mark around these tails with a pencil and now cut out the tails. See no 7 Plan no 2
List of Materials Timber. All sizes are finished sizes PSE and all length are given as true lengths. (It my be better to add a little extra length on sizes given)
Main Box
20x152mm (3/4” x 6”) 2 Ends at 380mm (15”) long 2 Sides at 495mm (19 1/2“) long 2 Divisions inside box 13mm x 63mm x 476mm (½’’ x 2 ½” x 18 ¾”) long. 2 at 3.6mm ply top and bottom 37mm x 476mm (14 ½” x 18 ¾”)
Draw
2 Sides at 13mm x 46mm x 473mm (1/2 “ x 13/4 “ x 185/8”) long 1 Front 13mm x 46mm x 340mm (1/2 “ x 13/4 x 13 3/8”) long 1 back 13mm x 63mm x 340 mm (1/2” x 2 ½” x 13 3/8”) long 1 base at 3.6mm ply 475mm x 330mm (18 3/8“ x 13“)
Legs
Side Legs 2 at 42mm x 42mm x 820mm (1 5/8” x 1 5/8” x 32 ¼”) long 2 at 19mm x 19mm x 451mm (3/4” x ¾” x 17 ¾”) long 2 bottom end piece 90mm long x 42mm wide x 11mm thick (3 ½” long x 1 5/8” x wide x 7/16” thick) Back leg 1 at 42mm x 42mm x 460mm (1 5/8” x 1 5/8” x 16”) long Sidepieces 2 at 10mm thick x 35mm wide x 460mm long (3/8” thick x 1 3/8” wide x 16”) long Brace piece 1 at 10mm thick x 35mm wide x 390 mm long (3/8” thick x 1 3/8” wide x 15 3/8”) long Brace piece 1 at 10mm thick x 35mm wide x 425 mm long (3/8” thick x 1 3/8” wide x 16 3/4”) long Hinge end block 22mm thick x 50mm wide x 67mm long (7/8” thick x 2” wide x 2 5/8” long End block piece 6mm thick x 32mm wide x 64mm long (¼” thick x 1 ¼” wide x 2 ½” long
Lid adjustment legs
2 sidepieces 29mm x 35mm x 290mm long 1 1/8” x 1 3/8” x 113/8” long 2 extension pieces 15mm x 15mm x 273mm long 5/8” x 5/8” x 10 ¾” long 2 ply ends 3.6mm ply 29mm x 32mm 1 1/8” x 1 ¼”
Drawing board adjustment pieces on lid.
2 lid sidepieces 35mm x 16mm x 495mm long 1 3/8” x 5/8” x 19 ½” long 2 middle sidepieces 45mm x 16mm x 533 mm long 1 ¾” x 5/8” x 21” long 1 middle sidepiece 70mm x 16mm x 533mm long 2 ¾” x 5/8” x 21” long
Drawing board holder (made up of three pieces of timber) Bottom 1 at bottom 41mm x 22 mm x 431mm long 1 5/8” x 7/8” x 17” long 1 at top 41mm x 22 mm x 197mm long 1 5/8” x 7/8” x 7 3/4” long Middle 1 at middle bottom 41mm x 22 mm x 431mm long 1 5/8” x 7/8” x 17” long 1 at middle top 41mm x 22 mm x 197mm long 1 5/8” x 7/8” x 7 3/4” long Top 1 at end top 13mm x 32mm x 197mm ½” x 1¼” x 7 ¾” long 1 at end bottom 13mm x 32 x 431mm long ½” x 1¼” x 17” long 1 top jointer piece 45mm x 12mm x 140mm long 1 ¾” x ½” x 5 ½” long 2 at Locking pieces support 45mm x 25mm x 32mm long 1 ¾” x 1” x 1 ¼” long 2 tong glued onto locking piece support 41mm x 10mm x 41mm long 1 5/8” x 3/8” x 1 5/8” long
Iron ironmongery list on plans no 1