Modern Pioneer - September 2017

t ENGAGED OUTDOOR SERIES: MODERN PIONEER

THIRST NO MORE: TAP INTO GROUNDWATER BY HAND

AUG/SEPT

HOMESTEADING

2017

SKILLS • SMOKE WILD GAME MEAT • BUILD A RETAINING WALL • 5 WAYS TO OBTAIN FOOD

HOME BOW SHOP

3 MUST-HAVE PRODUCTS

HISTORIC STEWS

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE

SALVAGE SAVVY

TAKE DOWN BIG ELK

TASTY BOOYAH, BURGOO & GUMBO

FROM TRASH TO TREASURE

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HOW-TO TECHNIQUES CREATE YOUR OWN CANDLES

2

CONCOCT WOOD VARNISH

3

CATCH SNAPPING TURTLES

HISTORIC EXPLORER AND FUR TRADER

WITH YOUR TRUSTY DEER RIFLE

U.S. $8.99

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

“I love the sounds and the power of pounding water, whether it is the waves or a waterfall.” — Mike May 2 | MODERN PIONEER | APRIL/MAY 2017

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[ from the editor ]

PHOTO COURTESY OF DARRON MCDOUGAL

There’s No Place Like ...

THE SUNSET AND ITS LUMINOUS EFFECTS ON THE ROLLING PRAIRIES were, as always, impeccable. It was the perfect end to another incredible day taking in all the American West offers during a recent trip to South Dakota. Each time I visit Nebraska, Wyoming or South Dakota, their simple beauty blows me away. To many folks, the prairies of these states make up little more than boring wastelands. But to me, they’re places of solitude where I can inhale pure, sage-scented air, and gaze across seemingly infinite miles of untouched and uninhabited beauty—perhaps just the way it was in the days of, say, Laura Ingalls Wilder. Everyone has their happy place. For some, it’s the golf course. For others, it’s the beach or mountains. Or, maybe it’s nothing more than the rocking chair on the back deck, cup of coffee in hand. Regardless, your personality largely determines where your personal happy place is. Even though I enjoy visiting with folks and getting to know them, I love solitude. An introvert, I’m not the loud or outgoing type. I like quiet time, and frankly, my work requires it. So, it’s no secret why I love the West’s unadulterated areas teeming with smells, sights, wildlife and breathtaking sunrises and sunsets. In fact, I’ve vowed to one day call the West “home.” Meanwhile, most of my immediate family and in-laws all live within a 10-mile radius in Wisconsin. With brothers and sisters and nieces and nephews growing up and parents and grandparents growing old, my wife and I spend much of our time with those we love. It’s bittersweet, because as much as we love the West, we love our families more and

want to experience life with them. So, for now, I’m torn between two loves, and I feel obligated to choose the more important one. Alas, my dreams must wait, but I’m not giving up on them. I’ll live out west one day, Lord willing. In the meantime, we’re fortunate enough to visit the West at least once or twice annually. Wisconsin will probably always feel like “home,” even if my wife and I one day settle out west. I have so many fond memories here. Wisconsin winters, however, are nearly unbearable: subzero temps with deep snow and gusting winds. Those, I’m not so fond of. In Wisconsin, despite my fond memories, many days blend together with no significant differences between one another. Out west, though, each day seems to bring something new, which is probably why it fascinates me so. For an outdoorsman/hunter, it’s paradise. For me, nothing rivals the shrieking bugle of a bull elk, the sight of 20 pronghorn antelope skipping across the prairie, or the towering mountains in the distance. I dream about these things daily. And the only way to satisfy my craving for them is to simply go and take them in. Yes, for me, there is no place like out west. Editor’s note: Where’s your happy place? I want to know. Send me an E-mail at [email protected].

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contents AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017

FEATURES GENERAL

HUNTING/SHOOTING

50 Set in Stone A well-built gabion wall is timeless and can withstand earth’s natural forces

30 Horizontal Bowhunting 5 tips for buying your first crossbow By Al Raychard

By Clay Newcomb

72 Beauty Restored Do your hardwood floors lack luster? Try this DIY potion for less than $50 By Charles Witosky

122 Historic Stews Unique, region-specific tastes from around the U.S.

58 Treetop Bushy Tails Gamo airguns are put to the test By Thomas C. Tabor

80 Bust Big Elk With a Deer Rifle Planning an elk hunt and think you need a bigger rifle? If you hunt deer, think again. By Patrick Meitin

By Michael Pendley

64

88 Mobile Deer Camp Go the tent route in search of whitetail adventure

SURVIVAL

By Tony J. Peterson

22 Thirst No More With hard work and some knowledge, a water supply might be closer than you think

COVER STORY Taste of the Wild DIY smoked bear shoulder

By Dana Benner

By Clay Newcomb

96 Small Stuff With Big Benefits Little things can make your shelter more liveable By Michael D’Angona

106 Fatal Attraction Hunt near irresistible fruit trees to bag your next whitetail

114 The Chill That Kills Hypothermia’s cold hard facts By Michael D’Angona

By Mike Yancey

44 80

38 44

50

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EDITORIAL Doug Jeffrey Editorial Director Darron McDougal Editor Michelle Salcedo Managing Editor DESIGN Claire Morales Art Director Eric Knagg Design Director CONTRIBUTORS Dana Benner, Kristi Cook, Michael D’Angona,Jason Houser, Patrick Meitin, Clay Newcomb, Michael Pendley, Tony J. Peterson, Darryl Quidort, Al Raychard, Thomas C. Tabor, Mike Yancey

BUSHCRAFT

ADVERTISING Gabe Frimmel Ad Sales Director (714) 200-1930 [email protected] Casey Clifford Senior Account Executive (714) 200-1982 Mark Pack Senior Account Executive (714) 200-1939 Joe Galloway Senior Account Executive (863) 370-4376 Danny Chang Senior Account Executive (714) 200-1900 ext. 1948 Charles Dorr Account Executive (714) 200-1931 John Bartulin (866) 866-5146 ext. 2746 John Cabral Advertising Design Gennifer Merriday Advertising Traffic Coordinator Eric Gomez Advertising Traffic Coordinator

DEPARTMENTS

44 Setlines for Turtles Haul in giant snappers with a $2 setup

3 From the Editor

By Jason Houser

6 Pioneer Post 11 Review

SELF-RELIANCE 14 Salvage Savvy One man’s trash is another man’s treasure By Dana Benner

38 Ultimate Provider 5 ways to obtain food without grocery shopping By Dana Benner

98 Ancient Glow A time-tested, no-batteries-required emergency lighting solution

MARKETING Elise Portale Content Marketing Manager Michael Chadwick Digital Marketing and Media Coordinator Brooke Sanders Content Marketing Specialist Eric Surber Content Marketing Specialist Andrew Dunbar Videographer

12 Gear Showcase

OPERATIONS Robert Short IT Manager Parveen Kumar Newsstand and Circulation Analyst Shailesh Khandelwal Subscriptions Manager Alex Mendoza Administrative Assistant Samantha Mendoza Administrative Assistant Victoria Van Vlear Intern Program Manager

COLUMNS 8 Do-it-Yourself History’s First Shotgun

EDITORIAL, PRODUCTION & SALES OFFICE 17890 Sky Park Circle #250, Irvine, CA 92614 (714) 939-9991 • Fax: (800) 249-7761 www.americansurvivalguide.com facebook.com/americansurvivalguidemagazine facebook.com/eembybeckett

Loading and shooting a flintlock fowler By Darryl Quidort

130

Past Pioneering Alexander Mackenzie By Darryl Quidort

MODERN PIONEER (ISSN 2331-8937) is published bi-monthly in December/January, February/March, April/May, June/July, August/September, October/November by Engaged Media, Inc., 17890 Sky Park Circle #250, Irvine, CA 92614.© 2017 by Engaged Media, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any material from this issue in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

By Kristi Cook

CUSTOMER SERVICE Engaged Media, Inc. 17890 Sky Park Circle #250, Irvine, CA 92614 (239) 653-0225 Foreign Inquiries [email protected] Back Issues: www.engagedmediamags.com Books, Merchandise, Reprints (800) 764-6278 • Foreign (239) 653-0225 Letters to Editor, New Products, or to Contribute a Story or Photo [email protected]

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Single copy price is $8.99.

COVER COMPOSITE BY ERIC KNAGG

ENGAGED MEDIA, INC. Mike Savino CEO Nathaniel Phillips Human Resources Director Jason Mulroney Content Director Pinaki Bhattacharya Vertical Manager Philip Trinkle Newsstand Sales Director Bob Hulsy Business Development Director Sabra Morris Director of Content Marketing

This magazine is purchased by the buyer with the understanding that information presented is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Engaged Media Inc., as to the legality, completeness or technical accuracy.

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pioneer post The eastern whippoorwill is a scrappy little bird that boasts such excellent camouflage it doesn’t even need to build a nest for its brood. The brindled birds are famous for their distinctive call that’s echoed in their name. Feeding primarily at night, the carnivorous birds subsist exclusively on insects such as moths, ants, bees, fireflies, weevils and scavenger beetles. They begin searching for food 30 minutes after sunset and stop when it gets too dark for them to see. The birds’ eyes are equipped with a reflective structure behind the retina that allows them to see insects’ silhouettes against the sky, assisting in their nighttime dining forays. Eastern whippoorwills avoid large, uninterrupted forests covered with dense canopies. Their preferred breeding grounds are dry deciduous or evergreen deciduous forests with minimal underbrush. The birds’ feathers so closely match the brownish-gray leaf litter of their breeding grounds that they don’t even bother building nests, preferring to hatch their eggs directly on the ground and then move nestlings around as they grow to avoid predators.

PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA

Bird Bio: Eastern Whippoorwill

Keep an ear open for the haunting whippoorwill call next time you’re enjoying the forests of the eastern United States. For more info on these plentiful yet interesting birds, check out allaboutbirds.org.

So, You Think You Know George Washington Anyone who’s grown up in the U.S. has studied our famous first president, George Washington. We’ve all certainly heard the apocryphal story of the infamous cherry tree, but here are a few tidbits about one of our most famous founding fathers that you probably didn’t learn about in grade school.

1. Epicurean President Washington had adventurous—for the time—and eclectic tastes in food. Some of his favorites included mashed sweet potatoes with coconut and cream of peanut soup.

2. High School Dropout? Although Washington started school when he was just 6 years old, he was forced to abandon his studies at 15 because his family could no longer afford to pay for his studies. He went on to become a surveyor.

3. Drastic Dentistry The first president’s teeth pained him throughout most of his life. At age 57, he had them all pulled and wore a set of ivory false teeth set in a silver plate.

Washington was incredibly fond of dogs and treated the hounds he bred as members of his family. He even went so far as to give them cute names that expressed his affection for them, like Truelove and Sweet Lips.

5. Sweet Home Philadelphia Washington assisted in planning the U.S.’s capital, but ironically, he never lived in the city that bears his name. Instead, he lived in New York City and, once he became president, in Philadelphia.

PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA

4. Dog Lover

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PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA

With simply a small telescope, and sometimes just a good pair of binoculars or even the naked eye, it’s possible to view some of the planets that shine in the night sky. Mercury and Venus, known as inferior planets, orbit closer to the sun than Earth. Although Mercury shines brighter than most other celestial bodies, because it never manifests farther than 28 degrees from the sun, it’s very difficult to locate. Venus, on the other hand, has a much larger orbit than little Mercury, and is visible with the naked eye most of the year. The remaining planets: Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus and Neptune, known as superior planets, are visible using a telescope. The time when these planets lie on the far side of the sun as seen from Earth is called conjunction. The planets will move into the morning sky, climbing increasingly higher. Ultimately, the planet arrives at the point in its orbit where it lies opposite the sun in Earth’s sky; this configuration is known as opposition. The superior planets are most visible to us at opposition, and they will remain visible all night long. Simply locating the planets can be exciting enough for novice astronomers, but with a modest telescope, specific characteristics can be identified on the planets that lie closer to Earth. Mars, the nearest superior planet, offers the most detail. Larger Jupiter displays a series of

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Backyard Astronomy

bright zones and dark belts. Swirling eddies and Jupiter’s famous Great Red Spot are also visible at opposition. Saturn’s unique and intriguing rings can be seen using a small scope. It will take a larger scope to view the details of Saturn’s rings, but backyard observers will be able to locate the planet’s moons with a small telescope. Uranus and Neptune can be located with a small scope, and Uranus can even be seen with the naked eye if viewed from a very dark location away from city lights. Details of both will be very limited. Embattled Pluto will offer no detail with a small scope. In fact, you’ll require an 8-inch scope and a detailed star chart simply to locate it, but it’s an exciting find for budding backyard astronomers.

American campers are some of the luckiest because we live in a country that boasts some of the most varied and beautiful landscapes on the planet. Our state and national parks and forests offer some of the best outdoor adventures around from awesome sightseeing and rugged hikes to useful amenities and interesting historical locations. We’ve compiled a small sampling of some of the best parks in several regions of the U.S.

water activities dominate summer and spring; fall is best for hiking and winter is perfect for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and ice fishing. This unique park is mostly water, but if you don’t own a boat, you can take advantage of guided boat tours. Hikes are accessible by car or boat. There are 220 campsites in the park, and it’s open year round.

South

world and travel a 30-mile road through the rain forest. Ruby Beach offers views of mountains, glaciers and rain forests from the shore, and visitors can watch whales right from the beach at La Push during migration season. The park hosts 16 campgrounds and backcountry camping is allowed. The park is open year round.

Everglades National Park, Florida A wildlife spotter’s dream, Everglades NP is home to many rare species such as manatees, alligators, dolphins and the endangered Florida panther. Hiking, biking, canoeing and kayaking are the preferred activities in this Southern park, but guided tours of the many mangrove forests and freshwater marshes are also offered. There are two campgrounds, and several backcountry campsites, which are somewhat difficult to access. The park is open year round.

Mountain

Northeast

West

Joshua Tree National Park, California Desert camping doesn’t top most campers’ lists, but Joshua Tree National Park might change their minds. The park is located at the intersection of the low-lying Colorado Desert and the slightly higher and cooler Mojave Desert. The vegetation and climate of the two areas is markedly different. There are many trails to hike and 10 mountain peaks higher than 5,000 feet. The park is a favorite rock-climbing destination, and it’s popularity as a vacation spot for nearby Los Angeles locals has exploded in recent years. The park offers nine established campgrounds and backcountry camping is allowed. The park is open year round.

Northwest

Olympic National Park, Washington Proof that the U.S. offers amazing variation, campers can travel from the low-lying deserts of the West to the cool rainforests of Olympic National Park in just two or three days of driving. Olympic NP hosts three different ecosystems. In the Quinault Rain Forest area, visitors can view the largest Sitka spruce tree in the

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Camping’s Greatest Hits

Sawtooth National Forest, Idaho A portion of the Rocky Mountains rather confusingly called The Smoky Mountains makes up a part of this little-known region. The steep, majestic mountains, pristine lakes and beautiful, wildflower-bedecked vistas will remind you of alpine views in Europe. There are dozens of campgrounds in the area and the region is open year round.

Midwest

Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota Each season in Voyageurs offers different activities. Boating, swimming and other

Green Mountain National Forest, Vermont Hiking is king is Green Mountain National Forest. Vermont’s Long Trail is partially located in the forest and is an enticing lure to hikers from around the region. The 270-mile trail is the oldest long-distance trail in the U.S. and follows the ridge of the Green Mountains through Vermont from Massachusetts to the Canadian border. There are five campgrounds, and backcountry camping is allowed. The forest is open year round. MP

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do-it-yourself

History’s First Shotgun LOADING AND SHOOTING A FLINTLOCK FOWLER

PHOTO BY DARRYL QUIDORT

> By Darryl Quidort

THE LONG-BARRELED, SMOOTHBORED—no rifling grooves in the barrel— flintlock gun played a major role in early American firearms. Extremely versatile, the gun could fire a single round lead ball with decent accuracy, or be loaded with loose lead pellets and used as a shotgun. In this article, we’ll discuss the latter.

The Early Shotgun When used as a shotgun, it allowed pioneer hunters to cleanly take fast-moving small game, even knocking flying game birds out of the air, earning it the name “fowler.” The long-barreled fowler eventually evolved into today’s short-barreled shotguns. Early fowlers were usually .62 caliber, which is equivalent to a 20-gauge shotgun. Later, other gauges became available. The double-barreled fowler, or shotgun, was developed for a quick second shot before it was necessary to reload.

Loading the Fowler The load used in a muzzleloading shotgun is very similar to a modern shotgun load, except that the components are loaded directly down the barrel of a muzzleloader instead of into a modern shot shell casing. Most loadings available in modern shot shells can be duplicated by a muzzleloading shotgun. In a muzzleloader, every shot is basically a custom load. This allows the flexibility to tailor each load for a specific purpose. Various combinations of powder charge, shot size and wad spacing allow loading the gun to match the game. A smoothbore can be loaded “down” for trap shooting or loaded “up” for turkey hunting. Some pioneers preferred a smoothbore fowler over a rifle because of this versatility. Many meals were provided for pioneer families, thanks to the flintlock fowler that hung

over the fireplace mantel. Muzzleloading shotguns are usually loaded with what’s called a square load. This means that the same measure is used for both the black powder and shot. Using the same volume of powder and shot works well for all of the various shotgun loads and greatly simplifies the loading process.

Safety First Although fowlers are historic, quaint and romantic, they’re not toys. Always remember to put safety first! They require the same respect and careful handling as all firearms. Black powder is explosive; handle it with care. Never exceed the maximum load recommended for your gun. Before loading, make sure that the barrel is clean and dry, and that the flash hole of the lock is open and clean. Start with the frizzen open and the hammer fully down.

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5-Step Loading Procedure

5-STEP LOADING PROCEDURE

Loading a muzzleloading shotgun isn’t complicated, but the components must be loaded in the proper sequence. The following steps will guide you through the procedure. E STEP 1: Load powder. Be sure to use the proper granulation of black powder. This is usually fg (2fg) for shotguns. Pour a proper charge of black powder from the powder horn or container into a measure. Close the horn or container. Pour the measured powder charge down the barrel. Never load the gun directly from the horn or container. E STEP 2. Load wads. Place a tight-fitting, correct gauge over-powder wad (about 1/8-inch-thick, dense cardboard) into the muzzle and push it about 1 inch down the barrel. This wad forms a tight gas seal in the bore. Then, place a fiber cushion wad (about ½-inch thick) into the muzzle. This wad is often lubricated with oil or grease to help clear fouling from the barrel. Use the ramrod to push both wads down the barrel at once and seat them firmly against the powder charge. E STEP 3: Load shot. Use the same measure that was used for the powder charge to measure out the lead shot. This is the volume for volume or square load that is standard in smoothbore muzzleloading. Pour the loose shot down the bore.

STEP 1: Load powder

STEP 2: Load wads

STEP 3: Load shot

STEP 4: Load over-powder card

E STEP 5: Prime pan. Lastly, with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, bring the hammer to the half-cocked position, and place a small amount of fine fg (4fg) black powder in the pan of the lock and close the frizzen down on the pan. The shotgun is now ready to cock and shoot. Experienced shooters will mark the ramrod at the muzzle for a visible check that the load is seated to the correct depth every time. This mark can also be used for a quick check to indicate if a barrel is loaded or empty.

Finding the Best Load and Pattern Each muzzleloading shotgun seems to be an individual. Part of the fun of shooting them is learning the proper load that delivers the best shot pattern. To work up a load, begin with a square load of the proper size and amount of shot you would like to shoot.

PHOTOS BY DARRYL QUIDORT

E STEP 4: Load card. Seat a thin, stiff overshot card (about 1/16-inch-thick cardboard) firmly down on top of the shot. This card will finish the load and keep the loose shot in place as the shotgun is carried while hunting or shooting. It may be necessary to punch a pin hole in this wad to keep trapped air from pushing it back up as it is rammed down.

STEP 5: Prime pan

An example might be, 1 ounce of #6 shot for rabbit hunting. Shoot a pattern on a large piece of cardboard or paper to see how your gun patterns that load at the distance you expect to shoot. If the shot pattern is satisfactory, you’re done. If you want to try to improve the pattern, experiment with the various components to develop a better load. If your pattern shows a hole in the center, try leaving out the fiber cushion wad. Sometimes using slightly less powder will tighten the pattern. Each component of the load will affect the

pattern. Make only one change at a time until you find the best load for your gun. Several gun makers are now producing modern replicas of long-barreled flintlock fowlers, which look and shoot just as they did centuries ago. These are efficient and enjoyable shotguns and, with the proper load, will rival the shooting results of even modern shotguns. Hunting with a historic blackpowder gun adds challenge to the hunt, and there is nothing like the thrill of successfully taking game the way our forefathers did. The roaring “boom” and rolling cloud of thick, white smoke from a fully loaded flintlock fowler is unmistakable. MP AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 | MODERN PIONEER | 9

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do-it-yourself

Quidort enjoys the thrill of taking game the way our forefathers did. The author’s flintlock fowler is virtually the same as those used by pioneers centuries ago.

PHOTO BY DARRYL QUIDORT

“Many meals were provided for pioneer families, thanks to the flintlock fowler that hung over the fireplace mantel.”

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review Home Bow Shop Trio

Three must-have products from Last Chance Archery

PRODUCT: EZ Green Press MSRP: $399

As an avid archer and bowhunter, I frequently tinker with my equipment. That’s partially because I worked at an archery pro shop as a technician for 10 years, but also because I get satisfaction from taking game with equipment that I set up and tune myself. I also test and evaluate equipment from manufacturers, plus I handle any servicing my wife’s bow needs, as well. Every time I get a new bow, I outfit it with accessories and tune it. Sometimes our bows need minor adjustments on short notice during bowhunting season, too. This, of course, requires tools. You can probably imagine how many trips I’d make to an archery shop and the money I’d spend if I didn’t have the knowledge and necessities to work on and service our bows at home. So, I use Last Chance Archery’s economical EZ Green bow press, EZ Green vise and Handheld Bow Scale. These outstanding products are essential to my home bow shop.

EZ Green Press

PHOTOS COURTESY OF LAST CHANCE ARCHERY

PRODUCT: EZ Green Vise MSRP: $90

PRODUCT: Handheld Bow Scale MSRP: $30

LAST CHANCE ARCHERY (706) 654-1961 Lastchancearchery.com

If you’re unaware, a bow press simply “presses” the bow until the bowstring’s tension releases, allowing you to work on the bow, perhaps installing a peep sight or adjusting cam synchronization, among other things. Most of the market’s bow presses are designed for commercial use in an archery retail store. As such, they’re often cumbersome and take up a lot of space. They’re not exactly friendly for home bow shops. The EZ Green remedies that. Not only is it far more affordable than most bow presses of equal craftsmanship, it’s also remarkably compact. Plus, it can be accessorized to further simplify bow work. Last Chance also offers a plethora of clever addons that include tool trays and several mounting options. The EZ Green press can either be mounted to a bench as is, or it can be used in conjunction with Last Chance’s floor stand or hitch mount (both sold separately), which slides into the hitch receiver on the back of your vehicle. Traveling archers and bowhunters will find the second option quite useful. Last Chance bow presses feature a patented finger system that presses the limb tips just as if the bow were being drawn back, which doesn’t twist the limbs or stress/torque the riser. Additionally, limb adapters are available for most compound bow makes so that limbs aren’t damaged while pressing your bow.

A measuring tape is integrated so you can easily adjust the press for your bow’s axle-to-axle length prior to pressing. Pressing the bow is simple: Hold the bow’s limb tips against the press’ fingers, then simply turn the hand crank clockwise until the bowstring’s tension releases. There are several items, as an archer, I wouldn’t be caught dead without. The EZ Green press is high on the list.

EZ Green Vise Convenience is an asset when performing bow work that requires both hands. The EZ Green bow vise mounts to a workbench. It firmly grasps the bow, holding it upright for operations like tying on a string loop, yet offering the versatility to orient the bow to virtually any angle for other tasks using a 360° axisadjustment system. The vise’s connection points are cushioned with rubber tubing to prevent limb scuffs and damage. I’ve worked on bows with and without a bow vise, and without question, a vise allows a bow technician to perform work more precisely with hands-free convenience. For the price, the EZ Green bow vise is a no-brainer.

Handheld Bow Scale While working as a bow technician, I learned that few customers knew their bow’s draw weight. They’d take a guess, but then be surprised when we’d reveal that it was significantly higher or lower than they’d originally believed. My question is this: Why guess when you can know? The Handheld Bow Scale simplifies draw-weight checks: Simply insert the device’s hook into your string loop and draw your bow. Of course, the highest digital reading as you draw is your draw weight, but you can also continue to full draw and hold there to read the holding weight.

One-Stop Home Bow Shop The products I’ve outlined here are outstanding, but they represent only a fraction of Last Chance Archery’s offerings. Many more accessories and devices are available: grain scales, fletching jigs and advanced-grade bow presses, among others. But, for the home bow shop, the three products I’ve covered here will get you started. I’ve used other bow presses and vises in the past, yet none are as simple and convenient as those from Last Chance Archery. With them (and a little knowhow), you can perform most technical bow operations from the comfort of home. That’s hard to beat. —Darron McDougal

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gear SHOWCASE

A DRINK ALWAYS CLOSE AT HAND Tackle Webs developed its new hook-and-loop cup holder specifically with boaters and fishermen in mind. While these cup holders work great in those situations, they work equally well for many other applications. Whether in a truck, car, ATV or SUV, hook-and-loop cup holders secure many different types of drinks and containers, up to and including a huge 30-ounce Yeti Rambler. They come ready to install with marine-grade hook-and-loop fasteners that are easy to peel and stick, eliminating the need for drilling, screws or any type of hardware. Weighing less than 3 ounces and made of weather-resistant materials, the hook-and-loop cup holder is lightweight and durable. Unlike cup holders that use suction cups, which tend to loosen, the hookand-loop cup holder’s proprietary adhesive glue back and hook-andloop fasteners will hold drinks securely and last for years. MSRP: $14.99

> TACKLEWEBS.COM

THIRST PREVENTION AND PATRIOTISM After serving America for 13 years, ex-Navy Seal Eli Crane and his wife turned entrepreneurs when they formed Bottle Breacher. Operating from Tucson, Arizona, the Cranes’ business coverts .50- and .20-caliber shell casings into unique, handcrafted beer- and wine-bottle openers. Many designs are available and include various hunting and fishing images and patriotic themes imprinted on the casings, but any of those can be personalized. In addition to the openers, various other items are also available, including cigar bores, freedom frags, breacher pens, whiskey bullets and much more, all of which share the commonality of the patriotism that’s an inherent part of the Cranes’ ethos. Every Bottle Breacher product benefits one of many veterans’ charities, with 100% of the Never Forgotten series products going to charities serving fallen military heroes. MSRP: Starting at $10

> BOTTLEBREACHER.COM

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS Howard Leight by Honeywell introduces a new hearing-protection system that incorporates many useful features. The new Impact Sports Bolt boasts a noise-reduction rating of MRR 22, which blocks continuous or impulse noises measuring 82 dB or higher. Simultaneously, while those harsh and potentially damaging noises are being reduced, the sounds we want to hear, like human conversations or a deer walking through leaves, are amplified by up to five times. Each Impact Sports Bolt includes an in-line

microphone and auxiliary connection cord permitting the Impact Sports Bolts to connect directly to iPod, MP3 or other devices. They’re available in various colors and include batteries, a belt clip and an extra set of ear-cup cushions. Impact Sports Bolts are available at leading sporting-goods dealerships like Dick’s Sporting Goods and Bass Pro Shops. MSRP: $120

> HOWARDLEIGHT.COM

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KNOW YOUR TRIGGER Lyman has released a brand-new and improved digital trigger pull gauge. This upgraded model is designed to be faster and improve accuracy. Its state-of-theart strain gauge technology is accurate to 1/10 of an ounce, and is capable of measuring pull weights up to 12 pounds. This new and improved model can calculate the average of up to 10 measurements. It features a large and easy-to-read LCD display, and comes with its own newly designed padded hard case. A single 9v battery powers the unit. MSRP: $59.95

> LYMANPRODUCTS.COM

KNIVES TAKING FLIGHT Most knife lovers, at one time or another, attempt to throw and stick a knife, but the knife usually lands sideways and bounces off its intended target. This has less to do with the thrower’s abilities and more to do with the knife’s design. To solve this problem, Outdoor Edge partnered with Bobby Branton to develop a brandnew knife line called the Aero-Strike Throwers. These knives are handcrafted and specifically designed for throwing. They’re made of the sharpest 42012 stainless steel and come in tanto, Bowie and spear-point designs. Each knife in the series has been weighted and balanced equally so that each throws and flies uniformly every time. The Aero-Strike Throwers feature 10.5-inch blades and come with a durable Blackstone finish. MSRP: $59.95

> OUTDOOREDGE.COM

SHARPEN UP Let’s face it: Keeping a sharp edge on your knife isn’t easy. The GATCO Super Micro-X sharpener solves the problem. This sharpener, available from Bear & Son Cutlery, is small enough to conveniently fit in your shirt or pants pocket. It features a polymer housing, which holds two medium and two fine sharpening rods. For a slip-resistant and firm grip, the Super Micro-X sharpener has a rubber pad on both outer ends, improving comfort and control. To sharpen your knife, simply draw the blade across the medium (brown colored) sharpening side in a slicing motion, continuing until the edge has been adequately reestablished. Next, polish the edge by turning the Super Micro-X sharpener over and following the same general procedure using the fine (white colored) side. Done! MSRP: $7.99

> BEARANDSONCUTLERY.COM

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

• SELF-RELIANCE •

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SALVAGE SAVVY ONE MAN’S TRASH IS ANOTHER MAN’S TREASURE By Dana Benner

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I

The Resurgence of an Ancient Practice Salvage yards, which replaced junkyards, are now very popular. I credit salvaging’s comeback to TV shows like “Alaskan Bush People” and “Alaska: The Last Frontier.” Granted, not everything can be created or repaired through salvage, but the folks on these shows seem to do a great deal with very little. Salvage City In the Lower 48, there are few areas with an economy driven by the salvage industry, but Key West, Florida, is an exception. To learn more, I traveled south to find out how salvage was, and still is, a viable economic source for

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGE

t’s sad to say, but we live in a throwaway society. If something breaks, we simply toss it out and buy a new one. Granted, many modern products, from autos to washing machines, are designed to be discarded. But, the crafty elite in our midst is embracing the time-honored skill of salvage, though today we call it “repurposing” or “recycling,” as if it were something new.

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[SALVAGE]

“… early settlers in Key West soon found a very profitable business salvaging the numerous wrecks.” West became a haven for pirates and privateers working for Britain who preyed upon Spanish merchant ships. Those captains were unfamiliar with the reefs and often ran aground on them, especially ships sitting low in the water due to their loads of supplies. Wrecks and their cargo of gold, rum, molasses and slaves were freely scavenged by anyone who could reach them. According to Clinton Curry of the Key West Shipwreck Museum, early settlers to Key West soon found a very profitable business in salvaging the numerous wrecks. By the 1850s, wrecking and salvaging became the island’s top industry. This was the “golden age of sail,” with more than 100 ships passing by Key West daily. According to Clinton, because of the dangerous coral-laden waters, one ship would wreck per week, on average.

(opposite) For those who have the skill and the gumption, salvage yards offer the spare parts and pieces needed to make broken or dated items like new again. (below) Salvaging is a time-honored practice that’s enjoying a resurgence thanks in part to reality TV shows like, “Alaskan Bush People.”

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGE

this south Florida city. The first stop on my research mission was the Key West Shipwreck Museum. Though the museum is geared to the many tourists that visit Key West, it provides a wealth of information for anyone interested in repurposing discarded material. When Ponce de Leon “discovered” Florida in 1513, the area that we now know as the Florida Keys was named Los Martires or “the martyrs.” The islands were known to and even visited by early explorers, but the landforms didn’t start appearing on European sailing maps for another century or so. This is too bad, because if they had, then many a sailing ship would have been made aware of the dangerous coral reefs that surround the keys, particularly Key West. Controlled by the British until after the American Revolution, the waters around Key

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This house in Key West was built entirely from the wood salvaged from wrecked ships. There are a few such houses still standing in Key West. PHOTO BY DANA BENNER

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGE

[SALVAGE] The Wreckers From high watchtowers, wreckers (or scavengers) would scan the edges of the reef both day and night looking for unfortunate ships that had run aground. Wreckers could make a large profit if they reached a ship first. The business became so profitable that storehouses abounded to house merchandise until it could be sold. Unless the original owners could afford to pay the price of recovery, the goods would be sold to the highest bidder. As much as gold, silver and rum had tangible value, of more importance to Key West residents were perishable items like cloth, tools, fruits, vegetables and other items not easily obtainable in that remote area, not to mention the timber and iron the wrecked ships could provide. Because the islands had very little usable timber, houses and storage centers were very difficult, if not impossible, to construct, so usable timber was in high demand. Salvaged iron was used to make nails, hinges and tools. Other pieces of the ship, such as sails, compasses and rigging, were often pieced out for use on other ships the same way that wrecked cars are sold for parts today. Monetary vs. Historical Value The percentage awarded to the wrecker was governed by wrecking courts, but by 1921, with

This Key West homeowner reused discarded pieces from electrical towers. PHOTO BY DANA BENNER

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGE

Many people are familiar with the term “wrecker.” Wreckers are the trucks that come to our aid when we’re broken down by the side of the road. The term originates from the marinesalvage industry. Wreckers help out with shipwrecks. Marine salvage services, like Coffin Marine Services, continue to operate to this day in the Florida Keys. Captain Coffin has more than 30 years of marine experience. He’s done everything from diving and marine-vessel repair to commercial fishing and marine salvage. A list of salvaged items for sale can be found at coffinmarine.com.

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGE

Coffin Marine Services

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[SALVAGE] the advent of a reliable rail system and better nautical navigation, the industry changed. To learn more, I visited the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum where I spoke with Cory Malcom, director of archaeology. I learned that salvage and treasure hunting focused mainly on the monetary return of items found, where archaeology is concerned with the historical value. While people have been salvaging and treasure hunting since the advent of ships, marine archaeology started taking off in the ’60s. The historical aspect is important and fun to study, but I was more interested in learning about modern salvage and treasure hunting. I spoke with John Coffin of Coffin Marine Services. His business specializes in all dimensions of marinerecovery operations. Coffin Marine Services is located on Big Pine Key, but I arranged to sit down and talk with Coffin in Key West. According to Coffin, the rules and regulations governing marine salvage have changed a lot since the 1800s, and wreckers now need special licenses and must follow specific rules to do their jobs. People still buy the items that can be salvaged, which keeps wreckers in business. Coffin also told me that some of the jobs are controlled by state or federal agencies. Some jobs are reported by state and federal agencies, but aren’t under federal control. I found the process very confusing, and it’s obviously far more complicated than it was in the 1800s. The real money in salvage comes from boats

Coffin can recover that authorities consider abandoned. These ships are called derelicts, and they’re the ones from which wreckers can sell anything and everything. Coffin told me that doors, anchors and portholes off these ships are top sellers. After speaking with Coffin, I walked around Key West to learn more. As I strolled the back streets, I could see that salvage and repurposed items are very important to the culture and aesthetic of the area. The people of Key West seem to really embrace the lifestyle.

(opposite, top) The detritus that washes ashore can be reused by anyone who claims it. (opposite, below) Many residents in Key West repurpose scavanged items for use around their homes.

Trash or Treasure? From Florida to Maine and everywhere in between, people repurpose and reuse all sorts of things. The next time you’re prepared to throw something out, consider: Can it be reused or repurposed? Can it be repaired at little or no cost simply by finding salvaged pieces? Can it be taken apart and the working parts sold or traded to someone who needs them? I continually find the old adage to be true, one man’s junk definitely is another man’s treasure. MP Sources: Key West Shipwreck Museum keywestshipwreck.com Coffin Marine Services coffinmarine.com Mel Fisher Maritime Museum melfisher.org

Key West Shipwreck Museum The history of Key West, Florida, is tied indelibly to the ocean. Fishing, sponge diving and wrecking all put Key West on the map.

when Key West was known as the Conch Republic. You’ll see many items on display in the museum that give you an

The Key West Shipwreck Museum is dedicated to preserving the

idea of what was salvaged. Some items might seem of little value

history of the wrecking trade as it was in Key West during the mid-

today, but consider how it was 200 years ago. Nails and wood were

to late-1800s. It does this by telling the story of a shipwreck that

scarce and valuable to the island’s residents. A visit to the museum

occurred in 1856. Actors in period dress take you back in time to

provides a good perspective on how people lived back then.

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• SURVIVAL •

THIRST NO MORE With hard work and some knowledge, a water supply might be closer than you think

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

By Dana Benner

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

Digging a well by hand can be difficult and exhausting work. Depending upon your relationship with neighbors and nearby friends, you might want to consider enlisting their help and then sharing access to the fruits of your labor.

A

mericans are quite a lucky bunch. Often, we take our unlimited access to safe drinking water for granted. Let’s turn the tables. Suppose you suddenly lose or have limited access to drinking water. Of course, preppers have stockpiled water for such an emergency, but how long will that supply last? Eventually, you’ll need more in order to survive. I find it difficult to believe that, despite the number of wells in my area, few people know about hand-digging a well. There are plenty of drilling operations that require equipment, but the method I’ll outline here requires no heavy equipment; just picks, shovels and muscle. To write this piece, I combined my knowledge of hand-digging sump pits, the history of the first settlers to this area and the work being done by non-government organizations (NGOs) worldwide. Hopefully, the information I present here will make a difference should you find yourself in dire need of water.

Hand-Digging History People have been hand-digging wells for eons. Well remains have been found in Europe that date back to the Copper, Bronze and Iron Ages. These are difficult to find because many were just simple unreinforced holes. In the early days of American colonization, every farm had a well, many of which were handdug. Fortunately, many of these were designed to withstand the tests of time, and can still be located and researched today. Location is Everything Digging a hole doesn’t automatically yield water. You must dig where you believe you’ll discover water. Study the topography before digging. Water flows downhill. I found evidence of this while visiting Arizona. I was on the Verde Canyon Railroad traveling through Verde Canyon, which is a land of sand and rock. While the high ground was rocky and dry, the Verde River at the bottom of the canyon

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[WATER] (right) This old hand-dug well’s stone-lined walls have withstood the tests of time. PHOTO COURTESY OF TANYA KRAJCIK, STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE DEPARTMENT OF CULTURAL RESOURCES

(below) Boulders will make it difficult to dig deep enough to reach water. In this case, consider digging elsewhere.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

“Well remains have been found in Europe that date back to the Copper, Bronze and Iron Ages.”

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[WATER]

“Often, we take our access to safe drinking water for granted.” supported a small willow and cottonwood forest. This gave me the idea to look for the types of plants that require a good water supply. I tested the idea while hiking the canyons of Sedona, Arizona. From above a canyon, I spotted a small willow and cottonwood cluster. Surface water wasn’t visible, which meant the trees were surviving on groundwater. I have no idea how deep the water was, but if necessary I would try to dig a well in such a place. In the Northeast where I live, plenty of areas appear dry in the summer, but in the spring, they practically become aquatic from rain and melting snow. Often, brooks and streams are there one minute and then suddenly disappear. Standing water indicates that the water table below it is full or almost full. As the table drops, surface water is sucked down to replenish it, which explains why a disappearing brook or stream went underground. These areas are worth investigating as potential well locations. Dousing, which uses a forked stick to locate water, has been practiced for ages. Of course, (left) The cap on this well helps keep the water from being contaminated by surface-water runoff. The stone wall provides a measure of safety for people and animals. PHOTO COURTESY OF TANYA KRAJCIK, STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE DEPARTMENT OF CULTURAL RESOURCES

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MP_1708_27 6/16/17 3:25 AM Page 27

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there are doubters. Does it really work? I can’t say, but if I face a situation in which finding a spot to dig a well means life or death, I’m going to try it.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Once your water supply runs dry, have a backup plan, if possible, in the form of a well. It could save your life. Also, have a way to purify the water if you’re unsure whether it’s safe to drink.

Tap the Source Before you start digging, examine the soil composition. Is it mainly sand, gravel and clay, or is it full of rocks and boulders? If there are numerous large boulders, try to find another area. Overly sandy soils are out, too, because they can lead to the well collapsing. Once you’ve decided to dig for water, how do you go about it? Remember: we’re in an emergency here. You must secure water for your family using picks, shovels and other hand tools. If you succeed, all is well. If not,

you’ve expended energy for nothing. Certain times are better than others to dig a well. The obvious good time is when you’ve run out of water, but the best time is when you have water reserves. In other words, you’ve scouted and know a spot and can afford to wait out ideal conditions just before the rainy season or spring snowmelt. You don’t want the soil too dry, or the hole could collapse; too wet, and the same thing can happen. Even worse, it could fill with water while you’re in the hole. Even in ideal conditions, cave-ins are possible. To help prevent this, the sides of the hole must be reinforced. Before you dig, gather as many boards as you can (longer is better). When possible, special concrete sleeves can be

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[WATER]

placed in the hole, and additional sleeves can be added to prevent cave-ins as you dig deeper. However, in an emergency, it’s unlikely you’ll have access to concrete accessories, so boards are your best bet. Metal or plastic culverts are another possibility. If available, they will work better than boards and can be left in the hole to act as the liner. Measure an area at least 5 feet in diameter. Using your shovel and pick, start digging evenly around the entire diameter. After a couple of feet, start lining the hole with the boards, inserting them vertically (or place the first length of culvert). Make sure to fit the boards closely. Use cross members to hold the boards tight against the sides of the hole. Continuously hammer the boards down as you dig deeper. All of this, although very timeconsuming, helps protect you from cave-ins. Hand-dug wells tend to be shallow, about 5 to 65 feet deep. This requires a lot of work, and expends energy and calories you probably can’t afford to lose. You must consider the risks versus rewards. One option is to assemble with neighbors to share the work and the reward. Of course, this option depends upon your relationship with potential partners and how you could work out the host of variables associated with shared access and usage. This is common sense, but worth mentioning: Always have a reliable way out of the hole. If you hit water, the hole could fill up fast. Keep a ladder or other means to get out nearby. If you’re using a metal or plastic culvert, you already have the material to line the well hole. If not, use bricks or stones to line the sides of the well. This will help stabilize the well and prevent cave-ins later. Once the well is established, back-fill the gap between your liner and the hole (if there is a gap) using crushed stone, gravel or small rocks. This will keep sediment out of the well water. Cap your well to keep debris from contaminating the water.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

“Hand-dug wells tend to be shallow, about 5 to 65 feet deep.”

Things to Consider •

Water runs downhill, so look for the lowest point; water will gather there.

•

Search for water-loving plants/trees, such as willows and cottonwoods.

•

Any broad-leafed plant found in an otherwise dry location is a good indication that there is ground water.

•

Streams that suddenly disappear or areas that are really wet during the spring

MP-1604-Tandy 2/10/16 2:51 PM Page 1 but then dry up inLeather the summer indicate potential groundwater.

All the supplies a leather craftsman would need

Last Resort In emergencies, a functioning well might be your only choice for potable water. However, think it through before tackling this endeavor. Are you going to stay in one place, or are you going to be moving? Water is precious, so try to conceal and defend it. MP SOURCES • Water Dowsing: usgs.gov • Hand-Dug Wells: wateraid.org

LEATHER

tandyleather.com

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• HUNTING/SHOOTING •

Horizontal

BOWHUNTING 5

TIPS FOR BUYING YOUR FIRST CROSSBOW By Al Raychard

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

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I

(above) Reverse-draw crossbows are a good choice when hunting from blinds and other tight quarters due to their narrow axle-to-axle width. (below) Shooting rails on elevated stands offer a convenient place to rest a crossbow while sitting and shooting, and they help increase accuracy. PHOTOS BY AL RAYCHARD

got into hunting with a crossbow by accident— literally. Several years ago, while getting my winter firewood supply, I tripped over a stump. Tumbling to the ground, I landed on my right shoulder and felt a sharp pain on impact. Long story short, a quick hospital visit revealed nothing was broken, but I was told my arm and shoulder would be sore to move and use for a while. I was advised to give it a rest for a week or so. With the archery-deer opener just a week away, and after investing several weeks of pre-season scouting, hanging stands and blinds, I wasn’t about to sacrifice my favorite hunting season. Fortunately, a friend of mine was leaving town on business for the entire month, and he suggested I give his crossbow a try. I gratefully accepted. During the next few days, I spent every opportunity getting familiar with the crossbow’s feel, mechanics and capabilities. It quickly became apparent that crossbows have their limitations, and are somewhat awkward and cumbersome to carry and shoot. Despite those shortcomings, what impressed me most was that unlike a vertical bow that can take years to master, once sighted-in, a crossbow takes little time to use proficiently and is an extremely accurate hunting tool. It was also fun to shoot, and I knew whether I was successful or not during the coming season, I was going to own one. Opening day promised to dawn crisp and clear that year, and as the October sun started to clear the treetops, illuminating the foliage in fall colors, I was sitting in a climbing treestand 15 feet above the forest floor overlooking a well-used deer run

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[CROSSBOW] and cornfield. Originally, I’d planned to hunt another location, but by luck, a few days earlier I found a trail with fresh sign indicating deer were visiting the field regularly, using the trail as a primary travel route to and from their beds. It was a prime location and too hot to pass up. Less than 40 minutes after getting positioned, two does, accompanied by a spike-horn buck, were working along the field edge and heading for the trail below me. The sun was fully up by then, and the trio seemed in a hurry, as if late getting into the safety of the woods. At a slow trot, they entered the tree line, and the lead doe continued moving. The second doe and buck stopped 25 yards away and looked back as if making sure nothing was in pursuit, which provided a highpercentage broadside shot. I raised the crossbow, put the 25-yard crosshair behind the buck’s near shoulder and pulled the trigger. At 350 fps, it doesn’t take a crossbow arrow (also called a bolt) long to travel 25 yards, and I heard rather than saw the arrow hit home. As the buck bolted, the doe took off for parts unknown, and a few minutes later, I descended to the ground. I found and followed the blood trail leading to my winter’s meat less than 30 yards down the trail. Because they’ve proven so efficient and user-friendly, crossbows have become my weapon of choice whenever archery hunting for deer and other big game. When it came to purchasing my own the very next season, I had several questions that needed answers. I’ve

“Chances are good that most of us test-drive a vehicle before we buy. That should apply when shopping for a crossbow.” since purchased multiple crossbows and now understand the process more clearly. Perhaps you’re interested in purchasing your first crossbow. If so, there are a few considerations to ensure you get the right model.

1 CHOOSING A STYLE Crossbows are available in three limb configurations. All work extremely well, and with all things considered, they release bolts at similar speeds and have similar range limitations. Deciding which one to purchase is best addressed in part by how the bow will be used. For target shooting, it makes little difference, but it can make a big difference if hunting is your main intent. With fewer moving parts—basically a bow mounted on a stock equipped with a trigger mechanism—recurve models are generally quieter and easier to maintain. Strings can be easily changed in the field, if necessary, and are less noisy and generally lighter in weight than compound

TenPoint Carbon Phantom RCX PHOTO COURTESY OF TENPOINT CROSSBOWS

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(below) Compound crossbows work with a system of cables and cams, which provide the necessary velocity in a relatively short power stroke. PHOTO BY AL RAYCHARD

(opposite) Crossbows are available in various designs. Pick the one that best suits your hunting situation.

PHOTO COURTESY OF TENPOINT CROSSBOWS

models. To achieve desired arrow speeds, recurve crossbows have longer stocks and wider limbs. For this reason, recurve crossbows may not be the best choice when hunting in tight quarters such as blinds or thick, brushy terrain. They also require more physical effort to cock all the way to the trigger mechanism because they don’t have let-off. Compound crossbows work with a system of cams and cables. Basically, during the cocking process, these cams “turn over” (or let-off), simplifying the cocking process. When fired, the cams reengage to increase arrow speed. Because of let-off, compound crossbows are easier to cock and are more compact, with shorter stocks and narrower limbs, yet they deliver the same arrow speeds as a recurve bow of equal draw weight. Although somewhat noisier than recurve models because of the cam action, at today’s velocities and within recommended range, the noise level is inconsequential. Being shorter and narrower, compound crossbows are a good choice for all-around hunting. Reverse-draw crossbows are relatively new. The riser sits closer to the shooter, improving the crossbow’s balance and stability—both important factors in hunting situations. The reverse-draw technology also provides a longer

“… a quick hospital visit revealed nothing was broken, but I was told my arm and shoulder would be sore to move and use for a while.”

power stroke for an increased speed-to-drawweight ratio. In other words, a 150-pound reverse-draw bow can release an arrow at the same speed as a 165-pound conventional crossbow. Reverse-draw crossbows also have a much narrower axle-to-axle width, some less than 10 inches when drawn. This makes them excellent choices for tight hunting situations where wider bows may present problems.

2 ONE THAT FITS Not only should a crossbow fit your hunting style, but it should also feel comfortable when carried and shot. Like a firearm, crossbows are built on a rifle-like stock and should have a comfortable length of pull, which speeds sight and target acquisition, and promotes control and consistent accuracy. If finding a crossbow that fits proves challenging, some models offer an adjustable forearm, cheek piece and buttstock for personal comfort.

3 SHOOT BEFORE YOU BUY Chances are good that most of us test-drive a vehicle before we buy. That should apply when shopping for a crossbow. Most retailers specializing in archery and other outdoor gear have an indoor or outdoor range where bows can be handled and shot prior to purchase. Take advantage of it, because a great deal can be learned in a hurry about how well a crossbow fits, its weight and balance, arrow speed, noise level and vibration, recoil and cocking effort— all important factors.

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[CROSSBOW]

STANDOUT CROSSBOWS is a reverse-draw crossbow. Measuring just

a bullpup stock measuring 35 inches long,

Crossbow Technologies exemplifies a

10 inches from axle to axle when cocked and

30 inches wide (when cocked), and has

modern compound crossbow. Weighing 6.9

34 inches long, the Nitro RDX is one of the

an ambidextrous cheek piece. Weighing

pounds, the 160-pound (draw weight) bow

market’s most compact crossbows, and it has

just 5.7 pounds, the Bulldog’s Powerload

measures just 13 inches from axle to axle

an adjustable cheek- and butt-plate. With a

limbs have a 260-pound draw weight

when cocked, has a 16-inch power stroke,

draw weight of 165 pounds, the Nitro releases

and a 13.5-inch power stroke that release

and releases bolts at speeds up to 385 fps.

bolts at speeds up to 385 fps, and comes

bolts at speeds up to 380 fps. The Matrix

The stock comes with an adjustable cheek-

as a package with scope, quiver, cocking

Bulldog 380 comes in a package that

and butt-plate for a custom fit. And, it’s

mechanism and six carbon bolts. For more

includes a scope, five-arrow quiver, four

sold as a package with bow, scope, quiver,

information, visit tenpointcrossbows.com.

carbon bolts, four 150-grain field points and

The Carbon Phantom RCX from TenPoint

cocking mechanism and six carbon bolts. The Carbon Nitro RDX, also from TenPoint,

The Matrix Bulldog 380 from Excalibur Crossbows is a recurve crossbow built on

rope-cocking aid. For more information, visit excaliburcrossbow.com.

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[CROSSBOW]

“… the second doe and buck stopped 25 yards away and looked back as if making sure nothing was in pursuit, which provided a high-percentage broadside shot.”

When hunting in tight quarters and dense cover, a compact crossbow with a narrow overall limb width is often the best choice. PHOTO BY AL RAYCHARD

Keep in mind that an ultra-lightweight crossbow with lots of recoil or vibration, or one that’s too heavy, can be burdensome and difficult to control and will affect accuracy. When considering speed, a crossbow shooting a bolt at 250 fps will do the job on deer-sized (or even larger) game efficiently, but a bolt traveling at 350 fps will not only hit harder, it will have a flatter trajectory, which makes judging distance less important. Plus, if you intend to hunt elk or moose, a hard-hitting crossbow will perform best. Equally important is the trigger pull. Most top-brand crossbows are equipped with premium trigger mechanisms with the proper amount of creep and pressure required—about 3 pounds—to release the arrow safely. Keep in mind that a hair trigger or one with no creep can be dangerous; while a trigger with too much creep or set too heavy is difficult to squeeze smoothly, which can cause accuracy to suffer.

4 BUY A PACKAGE Crossbows can be purchased bare bones, but from lessons I learned early, it’s far better to

invest in a package. Most crossbow packages come complete with the bow and a scope specifically designed for crossbows with multiple illuminated crosshairs for 20- to 60yard shooting, depending upon the bow. They also often include a quiver, bolts matched in length and weight to the bow, and field points for practicing. Buying a package is also more affordable, but more importantly, it takes all the guesswork out of buying accessories appropriate for a given bow. This ensures the first-time, inexperienced buyer is investing in a package that will function safely and properly.

5 GO SHOPPING! Buying a crossbow isn’t that difficult. As you would a rifle or any tool, conduct some research on the makes and models available. Develop an interest in, say, two or three specific makes, then head to a crossbow dealer and test them out to find one that fits and shoots the way you want it to. Also, be sure to check out the sidebar, “Standout Crossbows,” (pg. 35), which lists a few of the market’s top models. MP

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

• SELF-RELIANCE •

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Ultimate

PROVIDER

5 WAYS TO OBTAIN FOOD WITHOUT GROCERY SHOPPING By Dana Benner

L

earning to live on what Mother Nature provides is one of the most important self-sustaining lessons one can learn. I’m not talking about eating a “wild,” gathered meal here and there between boxed dinners. No, I’m talking about truly sustaining your family on essentially a full-time basis by hunting, fishing, foraging and gardening. If you’re willing to work hard, you can obtain most of your own food without making continual trips to the grocery store. Practice the following steps, and you’ll become the ultimate provider.

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1 HUNTING

(above ) When hunting for food, pause periodically. You’ll often spot game you’d otherwise spook or walk right past. (below) When hunting, be prepared for something to happen quickly. You may not get another opportunity. PHOTOS BY DANA BENNER

New Hampshire winters are often long and cold. Sometimes we even get snowed in. I must put away as much meat as I can, when I can. Hunting can be expensive—fuel, ammunition and hunting licenses/permits— so I also must make the most of my money. If you’re truly looking to eat solely wild game meat, look to bag as much game as you can for as little money as possible. I hunt mainly in New Hampshire and Vermont and obtain annual licenses for both. I also purchase my federal waterfowl permit and permits required for New Hampshire and Vermont. This is money well spent, because odds are that I’ll harvest ducks and geese in both states. I also purchase turkey permits for both states. Vermont allows two turkeys in spring and one in fall; New Hampshire allows one in spring and one in fall. If everything aligns, I can put five turkeys in the freezer alongside the waterfowl, small game and upland birds I harvest. Large game, such as deer and bear, are always desirable, but require much more work. But, one deer, along with the

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

[ULTIMATE PROVIDER]

“… if you’re willing to work hard, you can obtain most of your own food without making continual trips to the grocery store.” aforementioned game, will feed my family through winter. A bear would be an added bonus. Perhaps you have even larger game animals, such as elk and/or moose, to target where you live. One of either species will produce hundreds of pounds of meat.

2 FISHING As soon as the ice breaks in spring and the water opens, I go fishing. Just like hunting, I fish for food. That means I keep all legal fish I catch (abiding by limits, of course). Fishing licenses are generally cheaper than hunting licenses, so if you don’t hunt, fishing is the best way to put protein on the table and in the freezer. I purchase freshwaterfishing licenses in both Vermont and New Hampshire, as well as a saltwater-fishing license for New Hampshire. The saltwater license allows me to fish the New Hampshire coast and the coastal waters of Maine and Massachusetts. It’s easy to overspend on fishing equipment, so I’ve learned to simplify. Heck, some days I can catch fish just using a basic rod equipped with hook and worm. On other days, it may take spoons or in-line spinners to land a catch. These lures are simple, and they work for both freshwater and saltwater species. Unless you’re a tournament angler after a record bass or walleye (I’m not) you don’t need to spend a lot on gear. Keep costs down and use what works. Remember, the goal is to put food in the freezer.

A chance fishing trip to Louisiana provided the opportunity to land this red drum. PHOTO BY DANA BENNER

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“If you locate a large berry patch while out hunting ... go back with your family to involve them in your food-gathering efforts.”

3 FORAGING

Though small, woodcock add to the food stock. PHOTO BY DANA BENNER

FIREARMS FOR HUNTING My father always advised purchasing the best tools I could afford. My hunting firearms are tools, and the money spent on good firearms will always repay itself. With that said, I have very few firearms, but each one has a purpose. SHOTGUN I own a Mossberg Model 500 12-gauge, pump-action shotgun. Mossberg has been producing firearms for years, and the Model 500 exemplifies the solid performance the company is known for. I use it for turkeys, waterfowl, upland birds and, in areas where rifles aren’t allowed, for bear and deer hunting. I’ve had this shotgun for 30 years, and it hasn’t failed me. RIFLES My bear and deer rifle is a Henry lever-action .30-30 Winchester. The .30-30 has claimed more deer than any other round. I can count on my Henry to put meat in the freezer if presented with the opportunity. It recoils lightly compared to other popular deer rounds, such as the acclaimed .30-06 Springfield. I also have a Marlin Model 60 .22, which I use for small-game hunting. Nothing is pretty about this rifle, but it performs well when I’m out roving for little critters. Marlin .22s are perhaps the most popular rimfire rifle, most featuring a semiautomatic action perfect for firing multiple shots repeatedly when needed.

Very rarely do I leave the woods and fields without bringing something home with me. Like those who came before me, I seize every opportunity to gather food. While hunting spring turkeys, I often find fiddleheads and other available wild food. Fiddleheads are the young shoots of ferns (carry an identification guide) and are great as a side dish. As the warm weather progresses, I often come home with assorted wild berries, which I find while hiking into my favorite Vermont trout stream or beaver pond. In fall, I harvest wild apples and grapes, which are great for sauces, jams and jellies. I also harvest acorns, walnuts and beechnuts. Everything gathered becomes part of our food supply. I always carry large, resealable bags in my pack so I can bring this bounty home. If you locate a large berry patch while out hunting or fishing, go back with your family to involve them in your food-gathering efforts. Always carry a sidearm (if legal), because bears eat berries, too. In Vermont, New Hampshire and many other states, there are plenty of public lands where you can harvest wild foods free of charge.

4 GARDENING As soon as the weather warms up, I prepare my garden. A garden can be as large or small as you like. You don’t even need land to start one. Urbanites easily grow their own food in containers. Many urban communities even have large community gardens where you can get space to grow your own food. There are also numerous co-ops where you can exchange labor for fresh produce. The key to gardening is to grow vegetables that do well in your area, have large yields and store well, and your family will eat. Refer to the planting information on the back of seed packets prior to purchasing them. I stick to beans, squash, tomatoes and potatoes. These produce food my family eats,

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[ULTIMATE PROVIDER]

5 BARTERING Bartering is perhaps one of the oldest methods to obtain things you need. Basically, it’s trading an item or your services for something else. Over the years, I’ve worked on a lobster boat, trading my services in exchange for a portion of the catch. I have exchanged labor with a local farmer for eggs and a few butchered chickens. I have traded salmon fillets for venison steaks. I’ve even traded berry pies for ammunition, which I then traded for fishing time on a boat, securing fish for the freezer. The trick to bartering is not to sell yourself short. Make fair deals/exchanges. Are You a Provider? Living this lifestyle requires work, and it isn’t for everyone. If you’re willing to invest the time and effort, it can be rewarding. Plus, you get the satisfaction of knowing how and where your food was obtained. That’s an aspect grocery stores don’t offer. MP

FOOD STORAGE Both meat and vegetables can be stored in various ways, including freezing, drying and smoking. Each method has merits and drawbacks. FREEZING Today, freezing is the most common food-storage method. The trick is to realize that most meats must be used within one year, so it’s necessary to rotate your stock. Label and date each package. Meat can be packaged and frozen as is, but vegetables should be parboiled prior to freezing.

PHOTO BY DANA BENNER

plus they store well. Tomatoes can be eaten as is, or they can be processed and then stored in the freezer for later use. Beans always produce high yields, and dried beans store for a very long time. Squash and pumpkins can be dried or cooked and then frozen. Potatoes are a staple, and they too can be stored for a long time (see sidebar, “Food Storage” on the right).

DRYING Peas and beans that you want to dry should be left on the plant until the shells are dry and brown. When you can hear the peas or beans rattling inside their shells, open them up and spread the seeds on a paper towel or newspaper and allow them to dry thoroughly. Once dry, store them in an airtight container. Squash and pumpkins can be dried by slicing and then hanging the slices. The seeds are dried the same way as peas and beans. SMOKING This is the most time-consuming and labor-intensive method. It’s the way people processed meat and fish prior to refrigeration. This method takes practice, but once you learn the ropes, you can turn out some fine-tasting meat products that will last for a time unrefrigerated.

Never pass by a food source like these delicious blueberries. PHOTO BY THINKSTOCK

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• BUSHCRAFT •

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SETLINES FOR

TURTLES

HAUL IN GIANT SNAPPERS WITH A $2 SETUP By Jason Houser

A

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

lmost every body of water—ponds, lakes, creeks, rivers, swamps and ditches—potentially holds snapping turtles. Since turtle traps can be expensive (and illegal in some states), the next best method—my preferred method even over traps—is to catch snappers with setlines. The materials needed for turtle “fishing” won’t break the piggy bank and are easy to find. To get started catching turtles, you’ll need sharp fishing hooks, nylon cord, rubber boots and a knife.

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The Tackle Hooks must be at least 3 ½ inches long with at least a 1-inch gap. Make sure they’re sharp. Even new hooks straight out of the package should be sharpened before use. You want the turtle to hook itself when it picks up the bait to eat it. A dull hook won’t do the job. Hooks can easily be recovered from inside the turtle’s stomach when you’re butchering them. Make sure to sharpen the hooks before using them again. Also, from time to time, touch up the hooks on your lines. When choosing cord for the setline, look for these two things: non-rotting nylon and strength. I use braided-nylon twine, which many people use to make trot lines. The roll I currently use is of 73-pound test, and I paid around $12 for a 1-pound spool (about 2,200 feet of cord). I set a lot of turtle lines each summer. A spool this size is probably more than most people would use in one summer. Rubber boots are important when dealing with turtles. Run a turtle line once without wearing rubber boots, and you’ll understand why. Sometimes you’ll have to walk through deep water to reach the best set locations. More times than not, you’ll end up in the

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TIMING AND COMMON SENSE When going after turtles, try to wait until the second week of July before you begin. Even though turtles are moving from May through September, they won’t lay their eggs

Snapping turtles can grow large and boast an attitude. Never attempt to unhook a snapper, or your fingers could become victims of its bone-crushing jaws. PHOTO BY JASON HOUSER

“I’ve pulled in some exceptional catfish throughout the years on turtle setlines.”

until July. Give turtles enough time to lay their eggs to ensure a healthy turtle population for years to come. If you catch a small turtle, you can practice catch and release. Simply cut the cord above the leader and free the turtle. The hook will eventually dissolve, and the turtle will be fine. Don’t attempt to unhook a turtle. A leader is much cheaper than doctor bills when a turtle grabs a finger or two. Trust me, I’m writing from experience.

water while hauling in a hooked turtle. I never run my line without my Pursuit Stealth Cool hunting boots by Muck Boots. Their Express Cool technology keeps my feet dry through all of the water I encounter, and cool on hot days when other boots make your feet sweat. A knife is a valuable tool on the line, too. A knife can be used to cut bait and to cut the nylon cord after you catch a turtle. Cut the line a couple of feet above the turtle’s mouth to keep your hand out of reach of its bone-crushing jaws. As I mentioned earlier, the hook can be recovered during the butchering process. Great Bait I’ve had good luck with several different bait types. Fish heads, beef lung, chicken, deer and even turtle livers are all tough baits that’ll stay on a hook. When cleaning out my deep freezer to prepare for the upcoming deer season, I usually find a few packages of deer liver. Next summer, that deer liver will account for many of my turtles. That’s just fine with me; I’ll eat turtle over liver any day. Later in the season, once I start butchering turtles, I retain their livers. I do not eat turtle

liver, but as unpleasant as it might sound, other turtles do, so why not use them? Beef lung can be found at butcher shops for little or nothing. Most butchers will happily give you all you want. Beef lung floats, and I believe that makes it easier for turtles to find. When using fish for bait, I only use small pieces of the head. The rest of the fish is too soft, and turtles can yank it off without being hooked. Baiting the Hook Throughout the years, I’ve found that I catch more turtles on fresh bait than I do with rotten meat. Refrigerate your bait until you’re ready to use it. When you start making your sets, take only the amount of bait you need and leave the rest at home. On especially hot days, store your bait in a cooler with a few cubes of ice while you’re working the line. Also, after bait sits in the water for two or three days, remove it and replace it with fresh bait. When using liver and lung, each person has their preferred method of attaching it to the hook. Practice until you find what works for you. Regardless, a walnut-sized piece of bait should cover the bend and point of the hook. It’s not necessary to cover the shank.

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[TURTLE] It’s important, though, to not leave any loose pieces of bait dangling. A snapper can easily steal the bait and avoid the hook by pulling on loose bait ends.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Set Locations As you fish for turtles, you’ll begin to notice where they prefer to live. I’ve discovered that turtles choose calm water over rough water. Slow-moving creeks and rivers hold a lot of turtles. Look for mud bottoms combined with slow-moving water. Big turtles prefer deep water edges where they hunt for food. You won’t catch as many small turtles out there, but you’ll still catch a few. Also, because there aren’t as many small turtles on the deep edges, you’ll find that you have fewer bait-stripped hooks. Small turtles prefer to stay close to thick, weedy cover in the shallows. Many ponds and lakes have weeds in the shallow water along the shore. If possible, place your bait in the open water on the inside edge of the weeds. I’ve caught more turtles on points than on any other part of the water. Snappers swim along bank edges and around the point, hugging close to the bank at the point’s tip. Never walk by the tip of a point without wetting a line.

(right) Catfish are a bonus species that can be caught on a turtle setline. (below, left) Anchor your setline to a nearby tree so the turtle doesn’t take off with your bait and line. PHOTO BY JASON HOUSER (below, right) When using fish as turtle bait, use the head only, because the rest of the fish is too soft. PHOTO BY JASON HOUSER

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CHECK YOUR LINES DAILY Lines must be checked daily. Sometimes I check my lines a couple of times per day when I have the time. When I first started going after turtles more than two decades ago, I didn’t check my lines but once a day. Then, one day I set a line at a small farm pond. By the time I’d walked halfway around the 1-acre pond, I noticed my first set had a turtle. Only 10 minutes had the line in the water. Turtles are very active in warm weather. I’ve found that I catch more turtles now that I check my lines more often throughout the day. The sooner I can get a turtle out and remake my set, the sooner I can catch another turtle. Another reason to check your lines daily is to re-bait your hooks. Because of those pesky little snappers and painted turtles, you’ll have plenty of bare hooks. Un-baited hooks don’t catch turtles.

Don’t overlook points. Turtles often hug the bank as they travel around points. These can be killer setline locations. PHOTO BY JASON HOUSER

“Using setlines for turtles is an exciting and successful way to get some great-tasting meat.” The Setup Setting lines is easy. Make sure all knots are tight, and that the nylon cord you’re using isn’t frayed. When setting a short line, simply give the line a toss, or drop it where you want. Setting a long line is quite simple, too. With your setup baited, loop the cord loosely in your left hand. Take the looped cord in your left hand and, with your right hand, grab it about 18 inches above the bait. Keeping the cord looped in your left hand, use your right hand to toss it where you want it. If everything works properly, the cord in your left hand should smoothly peel out without tangling. Tie the cord to an anchor; a live tree works well. Tying the cord to a tree limb works somewhat like a fishing pole. It will bend without breaking until you’re able to land your catch. Don’t use a dead tree or limb. A strong turtle could easily break off the weak anchor. If you’re concerned with your catch being stolen, anchor your cord underwater to a bush or some other sturdy object. When checking your lines, it feels good to see your cord bouncing violently back and forth. You

just never know what might be at the other end; it could be a 5- or a 30-pound turtle. However, it’s not always a turtle at the other end. I’ve pulled in some exceptional catfish throughout the years on turtle setlines. One Big Catch A word of caution: it’s possible for turtles to drown. This happens when a snapper gets the cord wrapped around debris underwater and cannot get its head to the surface. The only way to avoid this is by setting your lines in water free of objects that could cause entanglement. If using a shorter line will help prevent the turtle from getting tangled, use it. Take your time when pulling a turtle in. A turtle can easily become tangled up in the brush. Even though you’re using a cord with high-test poundage, turtles are very aggressive and could easily fray it. If you need to get in the water to help retrieve your turtle, do it. After all, you should be wearing rubber boots. Turtle for Dinner, Anyone? Using setlines for turtles is an exciting and successful way to get some great-tasting meat. For less than $2 apiece, you can make setlines all day long. Can you think of a better way to spend the summer? MP

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

passed since I’d put

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[TURTLE]

BUYER’S GUIDE:

If the Boot Fits A man who puts in a hard day’s work is usually a man with a

support and comfort. The outside of the boot is just as impressive

satisfied smile … and a good pair of boots. Ask anyone who works on

with a non-slip, non-marking design that allows for a self-cleaning

their feet a lot, and they’ll tell you that boots can make or break your

outsole. Confident in its product, Bogs Footwear offers a 100%

day. Whatever circumstances you place yourself in, make sure you

satisfaction guarantee.

step into the right boots for safety and comfort. The following boots are advertised as 100% waterproof. Check them out and see which best fits your lifestyle.

NO MATTER THE WEATHER

MSRP: $120 bogsfootwear.com

THE PRICE IS RIGHT

high-performance insulation and wool/

If you’re looking for some boots to get you through the day without breaking the bank, then the CT, Black boots from Servus by Honeywell may be your perfect fit. Great for work out on the farm or in an industrial setting, the insoles in the CT, Black boots form to your feet, providing you comfort with every step you take. Slip-resistant, the Unique Trac10 outsole design provides stability when you need it most, and the contour heel cup molding

felt midsole will keep your feet warm,

in the boots minimizes heel slippage.

Life doesn’t stop when the temperature falls to uncomfortable degrees, so neither should you. Made with rubber that won’t harden in below-freezing conditions or crack under extreme heat, the Burly TracLite 800G was made to keep you going. These boots outshine other footwear in snowy and muddy conditions, with a comfort zone of -40°F to 40°F. The

maintain odor control and provide air circulation without weighing you down.

MSRP: $18.99

servusproducts.com

MSRP: $135 lacrossefootwear.com BEAT THE HEAT BOWHUNTING’S BEST FRIEND Revolutionizing bowhunting footwear, the Rutmaster 2.0 by Red Wing takes the standard rubber boot to the next level. Thanks to this boot’s ExoFlex technology, which allows the boot to temporarily expand to fit the back of your foot, struggling to get your boot on and off isn’t an issue. The Mud Claw RPM sole gives you exceptional traction and stability for a no-slip walk, while ScentBan kills bacteria that causes odor, helping to reduce your scent. The Rutmaster 2.0 comes in various Realtree Xtra designs, allowing you to

When your feet are hot and sweaty, there’s a good chance that you are, too. Keep your feet cool during warm hunting days with the Pursuit Stealth Cool hunting boot. The Muck Boot Company took the best qualities of several of its footwear options to create this boot, which is one of the lightest and coolest rubber boots out there. With a comfort range of 40-95°F, this ultra-light hunting boot does best in warm conditions because it was built with XpressCool fabric lining so your feet stay cool and dry all day. It comes in Realtree APG print.

MSRP: $219.99 muckbootcompany.com

choose the best camouflage for your hunting needs.

MSRP: $149.99 irishsetterboots.com

BRING IT ON Ready to take on anything your day might bring, Bogs’ Classic high men’s work boots are built with durable rubber that keeps you dry and protected from harsh climates with a comfort zone to -40°F. Bogs’ Classic high boots are designed with 7mm four-way-stretch Neo-Tech insulation, and have a contour fit for ultimate

LEAVE THE WEIGHT BEHIND When you need to be light on your feet, the Airgo Ultra Lightweight boot is the way to go. Seventy percent lighter than other waterproof rubber and PVC knee boots, the Ultra Lightweight boot provides excellent comfort to those who wear it, and includes a removable polyurethane contour insole. The material used to make this boot offers a selfinsulating feature, which keeps your feet cooler in the heat and warmer in the cold.

MSRP: $52.64 tingleyrubber.com

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• GENERAL •

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PHOTO BY CLAY NEWCOMB

SET IN

STONE

A WELL-BUILT GABION WALL IS TIMELESS AND CAN WITHSTAND EARTH’S NATURAL FORCES By Clay Newcomb

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“Keep the segments of the wall small so the baskets maintain a rigid structure to contain the rocks.”

I (below, left) Use a pair of bolt cutters to cut the wire into the sections you’ll need to create appropriately sized baskets. (below, right) Use galvanized wire to build topless and bottomless wire baskets. Don’t be afraid to use a lot. The baskets get their strength from the wire. (opposite) You don’t have to build the baskets in place. You can build them where it’s comfortable, then set them in place when finished. PHOTOS BY CLAY NEWCOMB

n the grand scheme of human history, using terraces to level sloped land is a technology comparable to harnessing the power of fire. Much of the earth’s surface is sloped, making it difficult to use. The more populated the earth has become, the more humans have had to make use of the land they’ve got. Building a retaining wall to reduce a slope is an ancient skill. You’ll need to understand some basic physics, drainage and soilmovement patterns to build a wall that will last a lifetime. You’ll also need to become familiar with the materials and building structures used to create the unique, strong and beautiful gabion walls we’ll discuss in this article. What’s a Gabion? Gabions are rock-filled wire baskets. The word “gabion” (root gabbione) is an Italian word meaning “big cage.” In my opinion, they’re faster to build and less laborious than

many other wall types. They’re cheaper than concrete landscape-block walls, and they’re cheaper than a dry-stack stone wall, if the stone is purchased at retail price. Gathering stone yourself is probably the cheapest wall-building method. Railroad-tie walls are cheap, but they’re labor-intensive and only have a 20-year lifespan. However, in building a gabion, you don’t have to lift heavy blocks, rocks or timbers by hand—with the right equipment. If built correctly, a gabion wall will last a lifetime. Most of the hand-labor is in constructing the wire baskets. A tractor with a bucket loader is important for easily putting the rocks into the baskets. Is a Gabion Wall Right for You? I chose to build gabion walls around my home based upon three considerations: aesthetics, finances and ease of construction. Gabion walls have a unique and complex visual appeal. The manmade-grid look of the wire contrasts with the natural shapes

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[SET IN STONE]

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“Many road departments use gabion walls along interstates and roadways.”

(above) Be sure to level the ground beneath the walls. There’s no need for a footing or to place the base of the wall underground. (below) The author uses tee posts as deadmen. These support structures are both in the wall and in the bank. They should be wired securely to the baskets. They also keep the baskets in place when you’re filling them with rocks. PHOTOS BY CLAY NEWCOMB

of the rock, creating a modern, yet rustic look. A gabion wall at your home will set you apart because they aren’t often used in residential applications. However, I find them very practical and easier to build than many alternatives. The materials are readily available and inexpensive. I’ve built multiple types of retaining walls using all types of materials, including gabions, natural stone, railroad ties and concrete landscape blocks. In the Ozarks of Arkansas, where I live, retaining walls are very common. I spent eight years in the professional landscaping business, and one of my main duties was building retaining walls. I’ve had the experience of seeing walls I’ve built maintain their integrity for more than a decade. Future decades will continue to tell my story, pass or fail, in Ozark wall building. The Beefier, the Better I’m amazed by how many walls don’t last. In my opinion, you can’t “overbuild” a retaining wall. The static pressure exerted by soil on walls over long periods of time is amazingly strong and difficult to understand. Soil moves, gravity pulls everything downward, and the weight and the earth’s strength pushing on a wall is significant, even if the wall is only a few feet tall. It’s even more significant if the wall is 3 to 5 feet tall. If not done correctly, a wall will slope forward within a few years and be face-first on the ground within a few decades. However, gabion walls are unique and completely porous, allowing water to freely flow through, which diminishes the pressure on the wall. Water-logged soil is extremely heavy, and by giving the water an exit path, pressure is released. No drains are needed on gabion walls; the wall is the drain. Materials Needed For my gabions, I chose 4x4-inch grid livestock panel purchased from the local farm store. These panels are 16 feet long and 4 feet tall, and are readily available across the country. I paid approximately $30 per panel. However, there are many options for types of wire. Whatever you choose, it must be strong enough to support its own weight and that of the rocks. Choose your grid size based upon the size of rocks you’ll be using. If you’ve got big rocks, then you can have bigger grids. Wire

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[SET IN STONE] with bigger holes is usually cheaper. You’ll need a pair of bolt cutters to cut the wire. Secondly, you’ll need some heavy-duty galvanized wire that won’t rust. The wire is very important because it holds the basket together. Don’t skimp on wire; buy more than you think you’ll need. You’ll also need some good pliers, dykes or wire cutters. If you build a large wall, your hands will be worn out from all the cutting. I recommend spending an extra $10 on quality pliers. The third material needed is the rock. Every region of the country has local gravel and rock supplies readily available. I used oversized river gravel native to the Ozarks, primarily because of its look and color. However, it would have been easier and cheaper to use bigger, chunkier rock. Most regions of the country have quarries that produce oversized gravel 4 to 6 inches in diameter. Many road departments use gabion walls along interstates and roadways. They typically use the most inexpensive rock type, so take note of the materials they use for your own project.

Constructing the Walls In my experience, this type of gabion is adequate for walls less than 4 feet tall. I personally wouldn’t build one any taller. There’s no need for a foundation or for burying the base of the wall into the ground. Strength isn’t gained, because the wall isn’t rigid. A critical action, however, is to create level surfaces on which to place the wire baskets. The top of the wall will only be as level as the ground underneath it. Use a string level, transit or even a long level. Building the baskets is simple. Measure the wall dimensions and use a bolt cutter to create the sides of the baskets. Then, use galvanized wire to join the sides. Put sections of livestock panel every 4 feet or so that run perpendicular to the face of the wall. These strengthen the wall. Another critical construction aspect is using tee posts as deadmen. In wall building, the term “deadman” refers to a horizontal structure that goes back into the bank, holding the wall and soil bank together. When building a dry-stack wall, you use long rocks that sink

Reasons to Build a Gabion Wall • Aesthetics • Affordability • Ease of construction

A quality tractor like this Kubota B26 will pay for itself through many years of use in the time and effort it saves. PHOTO BY CLAY NEWCOMB

THE RIGHT TRACTOR Since I’ve owned my Kubota B26 tractor, many envious people

lot more for it. A tractor pays for itself by the work that it does. If you’re

have quizzed me on its usefulness. I’ve now had it longer than 10 years,

still renting or borrowing equipment for digging while owning a tractor,

and have never regretted purchasing it. Here are a couple things I’ve

you’ve messed up.

learned. Four-wheel drive is a must for me, and can work circles around two-wheel-drive tractors. Secondly, not everybody needs a backhoe, but they’re very handy. I’d spend the money and get one with a backhoe, even though you’ll pay a

Thirdly, horsepower (HP) isn’t everything. This tractor is 26 HP and has power to spare, granted this model is commercial grade. Lastly, fill your tires 50-75% with non-freezable liquid. Most tire shops can do this for you. It gives the tractor stability and added traction.

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(below) Using a tractor bucket, the author fills the baskets with rocks. He poured in sections about 6 to 8 inches deep and hand-fit the visible rocks into place. (opposite) Dry-stack walls make beautiful and functional retaining walls. If you can gather the rock yourself, they’re the cheapest way to build a wall. However, it takes some skill to make them look beautiful like this one. PHOTO BY CLAY NEWCOMB

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[SET IN STONE] back into the bank. For gabions, I use tee posts. I hammer in the tee posts, and then wire them to the baskets. The tee posts are also held in place by the gravel surrounding them. Place a tee post about every 5 feet. In shorter walls, you can hammer the tee post straight down in the center of the baskets and surround them with gravel. These deadmen are critical to hold the baskets in place when pouring in rocks. Keep the segments of the wall small so the baskets maintain a rigid structure to contain the rocks. If you have a 16-foot wall, you’ll need to place a divider about every 4 feet. Different types of wire will require different spacing. The idea is that the basket will have enough support to maintain its shape without bulging. I used sections of livestock panel to create the dividers. In between the dividers (every 2 feet), I put a wire jumper to keep the middle sections from bulging. For dimensions, I made my

smaller wall 2 feet high by 16 inches wide. My larger wall is about 3 feet high and 20 inches wide. The taller the wall, the wider I like to construct it. Add the Rocks Once the baskets are set, level and sturdy, you can begin pouring in the rocks. The deadmen must be secured to the baskets, because they’ll be the only support (don’t backfill with dirt until the wall is complete). If the baskets aren’t anchored, the weight of the rocks will push the baskets. Use a tractor (consider renting one if you don’t own one) with a bucket to pour in the rocks. On my wall, I poured in sections of about 6 to 10 inches deep, then hand-fit the outer rocks so they looked good. Of course, this takes time and is optional. Once the baskets are filled with rocks, you can backfill dirt behind the wall. Done! MP

Dry-Stack Stone Wall I love dry-stack stone walls. They’re rustic, beautiful, traditional and functional. The most important thing is to angle the wall back into the bank. With every level you build, simply place the stone about 1 to 2 inches back from the edge below. When you’re done, the wall will angle backwards into the bank. Use longer, narrower rocks as deadmen to strengthen the wall. Place the narrow face of the rock out and the long section back into the bank. Additionally, stagger the joints in the wall so they don’t align directly on top of each other. These three things will strengthen the wall. The key to a beautiful dry-stack wall is keeping the joints symmetrical and small. Use the natural shape of the rock to determine which hole to put it in. However, almost every rock will be imperfect and need trimming. I use a masonry chisel and a Skilsaw with a diamond blade to manipulate the stone. Don’t make any cuts that will be visible on the finished wall. Be careful, but you’ll have to use the Skilsaw creatively to cut and grind off parts of the rocks to shape them for the wall.

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• HUNTING/SHOOTING •

TREETOP

BUSHY

TAILS

GAMMO AIRGUNS ARE PUT TO THE TEST

PHOTOS BY THOMAS C. TABOR

By Thomas C. Tabor

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

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Ancient Airguns Airguns are believed to date as far back as the 1500s in Europe. Lewis and Clark even carried one on their expeditions while exploring the American West. The Indians Lewis and Clark encountered on those adventures sometimes referred to it as “the smokeless thunder stick.” The earlyproduced air rifles in the U.S. were low-powered pieces utilizing a spring pistol power plant. These weapons flourished following the Civil War, and were mainly confined to target shooting and paper targets.

T

hose who participate in the annual Squirrel Master Classic event are given the chance to gain stature and recognition within the shooting community. If you’re lucky enough to prevail and walk away with the coveted Wooden Squirrel award, you’ve reached the pinnacle of accomplishment. This fun-filled event advances our hunting heritage through 4-H participation. It’s also a great way to test out Gamo air rifles under actual hunting conditions.

The Event The Gamo Squirrel Master Classic is held annually by Gamo USA in Alabama’s Black Belt region. Participation is on an invitation-only basis, with contestants consisting of outdoor writers, TV celebrities and their film crews, Gamo representatives, 4-H members, dog handlers and their faithful squirrelpursuing K9s. Typically, the event pairs six teams against one another in a fun-filled, one-day competition to see how many gray and fox squirrels each team can harvest using Gamo USA air rifles. I participated in the second annual Squirrel Master Classic two years ago and found that it was a real hoot. Unfortunately, my team

didn’t fair all that well in the competition and landed in fourth place. I hoped for redemption this year. Off to Alabama The Squirrel Master Classic is hosted jointly by the Southern Sportsman Hunting Lodge and Gamo USA. It’s held annually in the Alabama Black Belt Region about 20 miles west of Montgomery. The area is rich with gray squirrels. In true Alabama fashion, hunters face scattered timberland intermixed with food plots for deer, wet swampy terrain—sometimes occupied by snakes—and red Alabama gumbo clay that clogs many a boot tread. A large part of the competition is designed to encourage young shooters, many of which

The Gamo Swarm Maxxim air rifles used in the Gamo Squirrel Master Classic were chambered in .22 caliber, but are also available in .177 caliber. PHOTO COURTESY OF GAMO USA

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[SQUIRREL] (right) The fox squirrel is a very large and tough breed to bring down, but the new Gamo Swarm Maxxim rifle was well up to the challenge. (opposite)) Prior to the beginning of the competition, each participant must sight-in their rifle. PHOTOS BY THOMAS C. TABOR

are new to hunting. That’s where 4-H comes in. One 4-H member is assigned to each team. In previous years, scores were compiled based solely on the number of squirrels taken, with any ties being broken by the team with the heaviest squirrel bag. This year, however, the competition was expanded to include various other competitive shooting events. Scores from those events were then rolled into the scores produced by the actual squirrel hunting to determine the victor of the Squirrel Master Classic. To the Field The downpour of rain the day and night before the big competition reminded us how weather can influence any outdoor adventure. We lucked out, though: The storm arrived a day early and passed before we headed afield for the competition. But, while the rain had subsided, the Southern humidity had not. Gunner, my team’s squirrel dog, was anxious

“… hunters face scattered timberland intermixed with food plots … wet swampy terrain— sometimes occupied by snakes—and red Alabama gumbo clay …”

Gamo Swarm Maxxim The Gamo Swarm Maxxim is a one-of-a-kind break-barrel gas-pistondesigned air rifle. Unlike all other currently manufactured break-barrel airguns, which must be manually loaded between shots, the Maxxim comes equipped with a unique, removable 10-shot magazine. Simply re-cock the rifle after firing to reload for another shot. The $249.99 MSRP Swarm Maxxim is available in both .22 and .177 caliber, and in addition to its fiber-optic front and rear sights, it includes its own 3-9x40mm scope. When shooting the Gamo PBA Platinum pellets, it produces a muzzle velocity of 1,300 fps in .177 caliber and 975 fps in .22 caliber. It is equipped with a two-stage, independently adjustable trigger, and includes a three-year warranty. For more information, visit gamousa.com.

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A squirrel located high in the treetops can be a challenging target for any rifle and shooter, but the Gamo Swarm Maxxim was up to the challenge. PHOTO BY THOMAS C. TABOR

to get started, and soon we were all loaded into trucks and headed afield. Gunner, like most Southern-bred squirrel dogs, is a Feist, also known as the Mountain Feist or Treeing Feist. This is a mixed-heritage dog rather than an actual breed, but has been around for centuries in the U.S. Even though the Feist is exceptionally well known in the Southern states, it’s rare to encounter one north of the Mason/Dixon Line. My team members, like those from the other five teams, consisted of a cross section of the shooting world. Our team leader and noted outdoor-TV celebrity, Ralph Cianciarulo, hosts “Archer’s Choice” and was joined by his cameraman. The other members included three writers (including me), 4-H member Jeremy McFarland and his chaperone, our dog handler and Gunner, his expert squirrel K9. When we headed back for our mid-morning check-in, we were confident our bag of eight gray squirrels would move us a little closer to snatching the Wooden Squirrel, but we found that three teams were ahead of us with 11, 13 and 14 squirrels in their bags. We did get a bit of a reprieve at the Red Ryder BB event when Ralph surprised us all, literally blowing away the competition. But, even with Ralph’s impressive performance with the Red Ryder,

Common Airgun Designs The Gamo Swarm Maxxims used in the 2017 Gamo Squirrel Master Classic competition are of the break-barrel, spring-piston design, which requires the shooter to hand cock the rifle between each shot. The Swarm is unique because it’s the only currently produced break-barrel rifle to come with a magazine. The break-barrel design is possibly the most popular and reliable of all airgun designs today. The pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) is growing in popularity, however, due to its repeating-shot capabilities, frequently faster velocities and sometimes larger available calibers. As the name implies, PCP airguns must be precharged with air. To a certain degree, CO2 pellet guns have lost popularity in recent years, but are still being produced. This design requires the use of a small, pre-charged CO2 canister to propel pellets. Last on the ladder are the variable-pump models, which must be pumped up to propel their pellets. Their only advantage is that pellet velocity can be varied based upon how many times the gun is pumped.

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[SQUIRREL]

“… when we saw the vast number of squirrel nests high in the treetops, we had renewed hopes we’d clinch the lead.” we faced an uphill battle when it came to our overall success. Our afternoon hunt brought us to new grounds in search of our quarry, and when we saw the vast number of squirrel nests high in the treetops, we had renewed hopes we’d clinch the lead. Nevertheless, we soon found that most of those nesting squirrels had apparently moved on in search of better eats. Persisting, however, we were finally able to add another four grays to our tally, and one raccoon to boot. Unfortunately, there was no category or credit for that bandit. The End Result While we all had a great time at the Squirrel Master Classic, I’m sorry to report my team once again landed in fourth place. Like last time, my team simply couldn’t put enough squirrels in our bag to capture the infamous Wooden Squirrel award. Even though we fell short, I traveled a long way back home to Montana glad that I went. Of course, I hope to redeem myself in 2018. One of those Wooden Squirrels would certainly look good in my trophy room. MP

(top) Tabor and team were happy with their harvest by midday at the competition, though they found three other teams had harvested more squirrels. (below)) Despite taking fourth place, Tabor (third from left) and his team are all smiles. PHOTOS BY THOMAS C. TABOR AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 | MODERN PIONEER | 63

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• SELF-RELIANCE •

Author Clay Newcomb likes to expose the meat to direct smoke for about half of the cooking time. Then, he finishes it in a foil-covered pan on low heat in the oven. PHOTO BY CLAY NEWCOMB

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TASTE

OF THE

WILD DIY SMOKED BEAR SHOULDER By Clay Newcomb

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B

ears are icons of America’s wilderness. Their teeth, claws, strength and resolve to survive symbolize our vast and rugged continent. Their meat is truly American cuisine. Eating bear meat forges an organic connection to America’s wild places. One of the best ways to enjoy bear meat is smoked. Smoked bear is tender and juicy, and I’ll show you how to do it yourself, but first, let’s review some bruin history.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Black Bears Then In the 1800s, bear meat was a common dish in the United States. Bears were “market hunted,” meaning that their meat was sold in wild-game markets, which contributed sharply to their declining numbers at the time. In Arkansas, once known as “The Bear State,” accounts of pioneer life reveal that meat served at the table was likely bear meat. People hunted bear for profit, subsistence and to rid the country of a perceived vermin.

The oil and fur were valuable commodities, and bear meat was worth $10 per 100 pounds. In 1806, bear skins at Washington Post, Arkansas, were sold for $1 and $2 each, and a single trading company recorded buying 900 in one year. The price was dependent upon the size and quality of the skins. Considering other companies were buying bear commodities as well, one could estimate that thousands of black bears were being harvested annually in Arkansas alone. Bear oil or grease was considered highquality oil that didn’t spoil as quickly as other animal oils. This commodity could be sold for $1 per gallon, and was measured in ells. An ell—a standard medium of exchange in the 1800s—was formed from the hide and neck of a deer and was used to contain, transport and measure bear oil. Bear skins stretched out to dry in front of homes were status symbols. Potentially, a 300-pound bear in the 1800s would have been

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[SMOKED] worth between $12-15, which is equivalent to hundreds of dollars today, comparable to a beef steer in our modern economy. Market hunters willing to tolerate a wilderness lifestyle could have made a respectable living hunting bear in the fall. Today, hunters are happy to get a single bear in a year’s time, and they put the meat to good use.

“When done correctly, a slab of bear meat hot off the smoker has the texture and flavor of beef brisket.”

Black Bears Now Learning new methods for using wild meat is an important component of 21st century hunting. Meat from the market is expensive, and the benefits of supplementing freezers with wild game include reduced grocery bills, health benefits and the satisfaction of eating what you kill. Urbanization has separated most people from the reality of modern meat production. Being good stewards of wild protein acquired through sustainable hunting is good for hunters, our families and our public image. Black bears have the widest natural

geographic distribution of any big-game animal, second only to the mountain lion. Originally, black bears occurred in more places than even white-tailed deer. Biologists believe there are more black bears now than before European settlement. Conservative estimates suggest we now have 800,000 black bears compared to 500,000 previously. Opportunities to hunt black bear abound, but many aren’t sure about eating bear meat. When handled and cooked correctly, it’s excellent table fare, and provides a catalyst for dinner-table conversations that domesticated meat can’t.

Bears were widely hunted in the 1800s, and their meat was common table fare in many homes. As their current-day numbers grow, once again, hunters can take advantage of the meat, oil and hides these animals can provide.

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“The USDA suggests cooking pork and chicken to an internal temperature of 160°F … I suggest the same for bear meat.”

Bear Meat for the Smoker When preparing bear meat for smoking, I leave about a quarter of the fat on the meat. Depending on the time of year and the bear’s diet, the meat will likely have a region-specific flavor. I’ve heard that the only bear meat that doesn’t taste good is from areas where they eat a high proportion of fish. Bears are omnivores, but 85% of their diet is vegetation. In many parts of their range, a high percentage of the remaining 15% is in the form of insects. A bear killed in the fall in Arkansas will have gorged itself on acorns and hickory nuts. I find the flavor, even in mature male animals, to be excellent. Bear meat is greasier and heavier than what you’re probably used to, but don’t let that be a deterrent. It’s great meat for smoking. The shoulder of any wild animal isn’t considered a high-quality cut and can be challenging to use. However, it can be put to great use in the smoker. Smoking flavors the meat and can be used as a preservative. Bear meat is red with a beef- or pork-like texture; I describe it as “red pork.” In centuries past, when gaining lots of calories from food was in vogue, calorie-rich bear meat was a top choice. Fatty meats have a lot of connective tissues called collagen. When cooked fast, collagen shrinks and tightens the meat, giving it a tough, rubbery texture. Slow cooking melts the fats, effectively rendering it between the muscle tissues, providing a tender texture and juicy flavor. When done correctly, a slab of bear meat hot off the smoker has the texture and flavor of beef brisket.

(top) For this recipe, you’ll need salt, pepper, barbeque sauce, onion powder, aluminum foil, a bear front shoulder, a wood smoker, a disposable aluminum turkey pan, 10 pounds of mesquite or hickory wood and 10 pounds of charcoal. (center) If you like bark on your barbeque (a blackened crust), liberally coat the bear shoulder with barbeque sauce. (bottom) The barbeque sauce exposed to direct smoke and heat will form the bark of the barbeque. PHOTOS BY CLAY NEWCOMB

Smoking Considerations I prefer to use hickory for smoking bear meat because of its rich and bold flavor. It’s also a native tree that grows on my property. However, on this bear shoulder, I wanted to try mesquite wood purchased from a local grocery store. When smoking meat, lignin in the wood

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[SMOKED]

carries the flavor into the meat through the aromatic smoke. Additionally, wood cellulose breaks down, is transferred to the meat through smoke and caramelizes the outside of the flesh to create flavor. The smoke ring is an important part of all smoked meats. This is a distinct pink section of meat usually in the first ¼ inch. Don’t let the pink color deceive you into thinking it isn’t cooked; it is. The ring indicates that the flavor of the wood penetrated the meat, and it looks great, too. In scientific terms, the smoke ring is formed by iron molecules oxidizing and turning the flesh pink. The ring will be shallower or deeper based upon how long you expose the uncovered meat to direct smoke. Good smoked meat will have a smoke ring. As you’ll see in the method I detail on the following page, I typically only leave the meat on the wood smoker for about two to four hours. Why? Convenience. It’s easier to keep the oven at a steady temperature than to monitor the smoker constantly. The meat will receive its mouth-watering smoke flavor during this time, and a great smoke ring will have time to form. After a couple of hours, I take the meat out and place it in the oven in a covered pan for the remainder of the cooking time, which also prevents the meat from drying out.

(top) Use 5 pounds of charcoal and a generous amount of wood to start the fire. The charcoal stabilizes the temperature, while wood smoke flavors the meat. (below) Newcomb smokes most bear quarters for two to four hours at 225˚F, then transfers the meat to oven on low heat for a total cook time of eight to 10 hours. PHOTOS BY CLAY NEWCOMB

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“Eating bear meat forges an organic connection to America’s wild places.” SMOKED BEAR SHOULDER RECIPE Ingredients and Tools For this recipe, you’ll need salt, pepper, onion powder, barbeque sauce, a wood smoker, aluminum foil, a bear front shoulder, a disposable aluminum turkey pan, 10 pounds of charcoal and 10 pounds of mesquite or hickory wood. Trim, Season and Baste Do your final cleaning of the shoulder, trimming off any excess fat but leaving some for flavor. Liberally apply salt, pepper and onion powder to the entire shoulder. Then, generously baste barbeque sauce onto the meat. The charred sauce is what gives the smoked meat the “bark” or crust that makes barbeque taste so good. If you don’t like bark, then don’t apply sauce until after the meat is cooked. Many people like to marinate meat 24 hours before smoking. This is a good idea, but I typically don’t wait that long.

Field Preparation of BEAR MEAT Bears are typically killed in the warmer months of the year, so proper meat care is essential. Bear meat can became rancid more quickly than ungulate meat, so it’s important to keep the flesh cool and process it quickly. Leaving a bear overnight after it’s been shot in the evening is often the first mistake. Hunters are sometimes leery about tracking a bear in the dark, so they opt to go after it in the morning. If the temperature is in the 40s or lower, this will probably be OK, but if it’s higher, chances are you’ll lose some—if not all—of the meat. Safety should be your first concern, but your second should be the meat. If you’ve made a good shot and you recover the bear in the evening, skin and quarter it promptly. Get it in the freezer or on ice as quickly as possible. You’ll be rewarded with great-tasting meat.

Smoke For a bear shoulder that weighs approximately 10 pounds, I like to cook at 225°F for up to 10 hours. I cooked this particular shoulder for 8 hours at 250°F, but I forfeited some tenderness. Lower temperatures for longer periods of time typically mean more tender meat. Using a formula of 1 to 1 ½ hours of cooking time per pound of meat is a reasonable guideline. However, it’s much better to use a thermometer to test the internal temperature. Bear meat should be cooked thoroughly because of the risk of trichinosis. However, it’s killed at 145°F degrees and is no longer a problem. The USDA suggests cooking pork and chicken to an internal temperature of 160°F, just to be safe. I’d suggest the same for bear meat. However, the final cooked temperature of the meat should be around 190°F. After the meat has been rubbed with the ingredients, place it in a smoker that’s been preheated to 225°F. I typically use a full 10-pound bag of charcoal—5 pounds in the first two hours and 5 pounds the second two hours—to keep the temperature stable. If you’re using an electric smoker, this won’t be an issue. I put generous amounts of wood on top of the charcoal to create good smoke. Bake I let this shoulder cook in direct smoke for four hours at 250°F. Then I took it out, covered the pan with foil and placed it in the oven preheated to 250°F for another four hours (eight hours total). By this time, the smoke

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[SMOKED]

After cooking, slice the meat to be used however you prefer. Notice the beautiful, pinkish smoke ring on this bear shoulder.

has done the flavoring; now the meat simply needs to slow cook. On larger cuts of bear, I’d suggest cooking at 200-225°F for longer periods of time.

Smoked-Bear-Meat BAKED POTATO

PHOTO BY CLAY NEWCOMB

Slice and Serve After the meat has cooked, let it sit for at least 20 minutes before you begin to slice it. The meat can be sliced against the grain like brisket and eaten with barbeque sauce. When you cut into the meat, you’ll see a beautiful, pink smoke ring around the outside of the meat. It should be cooked all the way to the bone. Some parts of the shoulder are tougher, and I like to chop it up into smaller pieces for other uses. Everyone who’s eaten bear meat cooked this way has been delightfully surprised; many people think it’s beef. It’s a great way to spend a Saturday that ends in a truly American meal. MP

Large amounts of bear meat can be used multiple ways. One especially delicious way to use up leftover smoked bear meat is to grind it in a food processor and top a baked potato with it. After grinding, I like to mix in a liberal amount of barbeque sauce to help the meat stick together. Then, cut a baked potato down the middle and salt, pepper and butter it to taste. Place a heaping helping of ground bear meat on the potato along with some grated cheese and more barbeque sauce. You’ll have a hearty meal fit for king. Sometimes this is the best way to introduce someone to bear meat, giving them a taste of it dressed up in a way they already enjoy: a loaded baked potato.

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• GENERAL •

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BEAUTY RESTORED Do your hardwood floors lack luster? Try this DIY potion for less than $50 By Charles Witosky

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

W

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ood is a time-tested flooring option that not only resists wear, it looks great too. No matter what type of wood flooring you have, taking some time to maintain it will dramatically prolong its life. Applying varnish is a good way to keep your wood flooring in good condition. While storebought varnish is effective, the chemicals used to make it can be suspect. They’re not necessarily unsafe, but if you’re like me and don’t want to take any chances with your family’s health, why not try your hand at making your own varnish from natural ingredients instead. I’ve worked with three different methods, of varying complexity, that will enhance your wood flooring’s appearance and give it longevity.

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METHOD 1

COCONUT OIL This first one isn’t really a recipe, just a simple direction: Gently rub coconut oil onto your hardwood flooring. Ingredients • Coconut oil Tools • Clean, dry towel Directions

P STEP 1 Clean the hardwood. Do this before you apply any type of varnish; it’s possibly the most important step. If you don’t wipe away the dust and grime before varnishing, you’ll only rub them deeper into the wood. To clean the hardwood properly, first vacuum and then mop. Next, wipe the floor with either a damp rag or a barely damp mop to pick up anything the vacuum and mop missed.

P STEP 2 Rub the coconut oil into the corner of a dry cloth. A little goes a long way.

P STEP 3 Apply the oil to the hardwood in a circular motion.

“... if you ... don’t want to take any chances with your family’s health, why not try your hand at making your own varnish from natural ingredients ...”

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Use a light hand. Don’t force or rub the oil in vigorously. Once you can no longer see the oil and the floor looks cleaner and shinier, move on to another section. Continue until you’ve covered the entire floor.

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[VARNISH]

What is Coconut Oil? Coconut oil is extracted from the endosperm, or the meat, of the coconut. It’s high in saturated fat and can be used for many purposes: cooking, seasoning cast-iron cookware, remineralizing and whitening teeth, moisturizing skin, deodorizing, etc. It can also be used as a lowSPF sunscreen, lip balm, as an ingredient in shampoo, to avoid stretch marks during pregnancy, on mosquito bites and so on. Its high-fat content and edibility make it truly versatile. Don’t overuse it when cooking, though, as it will significantly increase the saturated fat content of your food. Coconut oil is good and healthy for hardwood because it’s natural. Because it’s high in saturated fat, it acts as a protective layer for hardwood. It also has a naturally occurring sheen, giving your floor a new and

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

shiny appearance.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Guide to Hardwood Floors There are entire books devoted to the subject,

you’re laying down a floor for a basement, save

some that try to sell you on a certain type of

some money and go with engineered.

Species

Pressure to Embed (Pounds)

Hickory

1,820

hardwood, some that don’t. Here is a nononsense guide on what to look out for when selecting hardwood.

Species and Hardness Ash, elm, alder, maple, cherry, beech, linden,

Aspen

350

hickory, white oak, tigerwood, northern red

Hard Maple

1,450

oak; the list of suitable hardwoods for flooring

Basswood

410

is long. While you should compare numerous

White Oak

1,360

number of tree species. Engineered hardwood is

attributes before selecting hardwood,

Cottonwood

430

made of multiple layers of plywood with a thin,

hardness is a chief consideration. On the

Beech

1,300

solid hardwood top layer.

right is a chart found in the United States

Yellow Poplar

540

Department of Agriculture’s Wood Handbook

Red Oak

1,290

radiant heat, you can’t use solid hardwood: It

that measures the relative hardness of various

Alder

590

will dry and shrink, and even split in some cases.

woods. It uses the Janka scale of hardness,

Yellow Birch

1,260

There’s nothing wrong with an engineered floor,

which measures the force required, in pounds,

Sycamore

770

so use what’s best for your home. If you want

to embed an 11.28mm steel ball into each

Green Ash

1,200

the natural beauty of solid hardwood, go for it. If

wood to half of the ball’s diameter.

Elm

830

Solid vs. Engineered Solid hardwood is naturally made of any

Understand that if you’re laying flooring over

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[VARNISH] METHOD 2

OLIVE OIL While this varnish only has two ingredients, it has the added benefit of a pleasant aroma. Ingredients • Olive oil • Lemon juice or essential oil • I recommend choosing a milder, fresher essential oil. Consider that strawberry essential oil smells great, but do you really want your entire home to smell of strawberries? Not me. I use lemon juice, lemon essential oil or lavender essential oil for this varnish.

Tool • Clean, dry towel

Directions

P STEP 1 Mix 1 ¼ cups olive oil with ¾ cup lemon juice or three drops of essential oil. Exceeding the suggested dose of essential oil will make the scent of the varnish overpowering.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

P STEP 2 Dip a corner of a towel into the mixture and apply. Using a slow, circular motion, rub the mixture into the floor. Focus on small areas so that you properly cover the entire floor.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Fill in a Scratch With a Walnut Scratches on hardwood are unfortunate but inevitable. So, what

will seep into the

do you do? Replace the board? Paint over it? Use wood filler? All

scratch, solidifying and

three—and many more—options are reasonable, but if you’re ever in

drying so the scratch

a pinch and need to cover up a scratch quickly, use a walnut.

becomes the same color as the wood. This

P STEP 1

process works best on

Rub a shelled walnut across the length of the scratch. Do this

dark-colored wood.

repeatedly, making sure you’ve covered every inch.

PSTEP 3 P STEP 2

Varnish using any of the methods detailed in this article.

Wait 10 minutes. During this time, the natural oils from the walnut

The scratch should no longer be visible.

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METHOD 3

BEESWAX AND OLIVE OIL The most effective (and complicated) of the three recipes, we prefer this one. The beeswax adds a protective layer, the olive oil gives the floor a nice sheen, and the essential oil contributes a wonderful smell. Ingredients • ½ cup beeswax • 1 ½ cups olive oil • 3 drops essential oil of choice Tools • Knife (if beeswax is in block form) • Jar or heat-resistant bowl • Two bowls of different sizes to form a double boiler or a double boiler • Clean, dry towel Directions

P STEP 1 Chop up beeswax. Large chunks of raw beeswax can be very tough to cut through, so use a well-sharpened knife. Chop it up as finely as possible. If you can turn a whole block into shavings, do so. When measuring the beeswax you’ve chopped, pack it tightly into a measuring cup and level it off to make sure you’re using the appropriate amount.

“Engineered hardwood is made of multiple layers of plywood with a thin, solid hardwood top layer.” P STEP 4

P STEP 2

Once the beeswax has completely melted, pour the mixture into a jar or bowl.

Melt beeswax in a double boiler.

It will solidify almost immediately.

If you have an actual double boiler, use it; otherwise, use the two-pot method: Add water to a stockpot and bring to a simmer, set a bowl in the stockpot, but don’t allow the bottom of the bowl to come in contact with the simmering water.

P STEP 5

P STEP 3 Once most of the beeswax has melted, add olive oil and essential oil. Stir until all ingredients are combined.

These are the ingredients and tools needed to make a quality, good-smelling hardwood-floor varnish. PHOTO BY CHARLES WITOSKY

Varnish your floor using the technique described in the previous two recipes. Revarnish when necessary. Beauty Restored Using any of the methods outlined here, you can prolong the life of wood flooring and restore its natural beauty when wear and tear cause it to scuff and fade. As an added bonus, none of these methods exceed $50. Try them out, and you’ll see that they’re money well spent. MP

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

[VARNISH]

It just takes a few dollars and some elbow grease to make high-quality, non-toxic hardwood varnish to protect and beautify flooring and paneling.

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• HUNTING/SHOOTING •

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BUST BIG ELK WITH A

DEER RIFLE

Planning an elk hunt and think you need a bigger rifle? If you hunt deer, think again

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

By Patrick Meitin

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There’s no disputing that elk are one of the largest, toughest big-game animals regularly hunted in North America, but quality bullets with high ballistic coefficients placed correctly will always do the job, no matter how powerful the cartridge. PHOTO BY PATRICK MEITIN

I

’ve never been a big-gun advocate. I killed my first elk at age 12, a New Mexico 5x5 bull at 200 yards, with .243 Winchester; my second was another bull at the same range, using the same rifle, two years later. These early experiences shaped my perspective on rifles. That attitude was reinforced while guiding elk hunters for 23 years in New Mexico’s Gila region. I witnessed too many sports arriving for their longawaited adventures armed with big .300 Weatherby or .338 Winchester magnums—cartridges generally deemed ideal by gun-writer types—who couldn’t hit their butt with both hands while shooting these blunderbusses. Who could really blame them? Especially in the custom 6 ½-pound mountain rifles many of these clients chose for the big event, these cartridges punish from both ends. Accuracy Trumps Power In time, I developed the general attitude that I’d rather have a client shoot a lighter cartridge well than a larger round with mediocre accuracy. This doesn’t even begin to address the issue of youth or petite women hunters.

First, since these hunters usually used their light rifle extensively for white-tailed deer and were intimately familiar with it (and not afraid of it), they typically shot it well. More pointedly, the notion that larger cartridges compensate for sloppy shooting is ridiculous. Killing big game is all about bullet placement and always will be. Some argue that visiting sportsmen must sometimes take the shot presented or go home empty-handed, a point made as a way of excusing shots taken at steeply-quartering or straight-away animals that require bullets to plow through lots of body. Placing precedence on larger cartridges to excuse risky shots, again, is ridiculous. Risky is risky, and elk deserve better. Granted, elk are, pound for pound, as tough as they come, but nothing lives very long with perforated lungs. Furthermore, in this day of exponentially better bullet designs and factory ammo, lines have blurred considerably. Terms and Conditions Setting parameters regarding what is “big” and what is “small” is pretty subjective. I know a notable gun writer who considers the .375 H&H—a cartridge suited to African Cape buffalo—ideal for elk. If recoil wasn’t a factor, I’d call the .338 Winchester perfect elk medicine. Many others point to any of the .300 magnums, and I wouldn’t argue with those choices, either. But, we’re not arguing “ideal” here, but rather employing a perfectly good deer rifle you already own and shoot well for elk hunting. I could argue for cartridges as mild as the .243 Winchester, 6mm Remington, .257 Roberts and

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

[ELK]

“In time, I developed the general attitude that I’d rather have a client shoot a lighter cartridge well than a larger round with mediocre accuracy.” (above) When going after North America’s biggest game animal, use what you’re comfortable with and bring along your deer rifle.

(right) Nathan Rogers took this eating-fat Colorado cow elk with a single shot from a 7mm-08, a cartridge that performs well beyond its seemingly mild nature. The high ballistic coefficient inherent to most 7mm bullets makes it a fine elk cartridge. PHOTO BY PATRICK MEITIN

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Would a larger cartridge make such a running shot any safer? Maybe, maybe not. It’s still all about bullet placement, after all, and a heavier, faster bullet won’t turn a paunch shot into a killing one, should you fail to lead the animal sufficiently. PHOTO BY PATRICK MEITIN

.25-06—all rounds I’d hunt elk with myself—with caveats, of course, which I’ll discuss momentarily. More realistically, though, we’re looking at cartridges in realm of the 6.5x55mm Swedish Mauser (developed in 1894), .260 Remington (.308 Winchester necked to 6.5mm/.264 caliber), newly popular 6.5 Creedmoor, Jack O’Connor’s .270 Winchester, 7mm-08 Remington (.308 necked to 7mm), 7x57mm Mauser (developed in 1892) and .300 Savage, with the .280 Remington, .308 Winchester and venerable .30-06 Springfield at the heavy end. How Ballistic Coefficient Factors Ballistic coefficient (BC) is an index of how a bullet decelerates as it speeds downrange, or how efficiently it slices through the atmosphere. It also has a large bearing on factors such as wind drift and penetration. A BC of 1.00 is considered perfect. In general terms, the best penetration is provided, relative to the cartridge under discussion, by bullets carrying a BC of around .450 to .500 or higher (look for these numbers when shopping for ammo). This translates, especially with the lightest cartridges under discussion, into long/heavy-for-caliber bullet designs. For example, in 6.5mm, this would generally mean a 140- to 160-grain bullet instead of a 120; in .270, a 150 instead of 130; in 7mm, a 160-plus instead of a 120; in .308, a 190-200 grain instead of 150. But, bullets that heavy sacrifice velocity and flatshooting characteristics, you protest. Forget muzzle velocities. You don’t shoot elk off the muzzle, but 200- to 300-yard shots are quite common. Lighter

bullets with low BCs shed speed and energy (in the air and while penetrating game) faster than those with higher BCs. So, while a lighter bullet may look good out of the blocks, higher BCs typically present superior velocities and flatter trajectories at true hunting ranges. Furthermore, all that bullet weight stacked behind long-for-caliber bullets pile-drives game—a sharp, slim spear versus a heavy, blunt rock, to exaggerate the point a tad. High BCs are characterized by long, sharp-pointed bullets, opposed to blunted or steep-ogive tips. Better Components Add high BC to more ruggedly constructed bullets, and lighter cartridges can be made to perform well on large game such as elk. The catchwords here are “controlled expansion.” Varmint bullets, at one extreme, are designed to come apart on impact, delivering dramatic impacts on vermin like prairie dogs and woodchucks. In the middle are deer bullets, average soft or hollow points made to expand aggressively to impart maximum shock, but retain enough weight to push completely through vitals, often exiting. On elk, where penetration is paramount, controlled-expansion bullets are designed to mushroom evenly after meeting resistance, but also constructed to ensure weight retention in the 80 to 90 percentiles. The original controlled-expansion design is Nosler’s Partition. These bullets include a fully tapered, copper-alloy jacket, creating a standard, soft-nosed bullet up front, an integral partition-

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[ELK]

PET LOADS, DEER RIFLES AND ELK LOADS .260 REMINGTON The .260 Remington is one of those cartridges that should be more popular, but lost that quirky contest that decides winners and losers in standard cartridge choice. It’s nothing more than the .308 Winchester necked down to the suddenly popular (via the 6.5 Creedmoor) 6.5mm caliber, but one that performs well beyond its seemingly diminutive size. BULLET

Hornady ELD 143 gr.

BC

Powder

LOAD

VELOCITY

PRIMER

.623

IMR 4831

39 gr.

2,580 fps

Remington 9z ½

(Ballistic Coefficient)

.270 WINCHESTER It could be argued the late gun-writing master Jack O’Conner made the .270 Winchester, but on its own merits, this is one fine cartridge. A neckeddown .30-06 in a somewhat oddball .277-caliber diameter, and the .270 performs better than it should. I’ve witnessed a great many elk throttled with this cartridge, so its validity is unquestioned. BULLET

BC

Powder

LOAD

VELOCITY

.483

RL-22

56.9 gr.

2,800 + fps

.465

H4350

52 gr.

2,782 fps

Sierra GameKing 150 gr. SBT Nosler Partition 150 gr. Spitzer

PRIMER

Winchester WLR

Fed 210

7MM-08 REMINGTON Another offspring of the .308 Winchester, the 7mm-08 is justifiably popular. It offers mild recoil for youngsters and women shooters with killing performance beyond its seemingly mild manner. The 7mm caliber also offers some of the highest BCs around. BULLET

BC

Powder

LOAD

VELOCITY

.672

IMR 4350

43 gr.

2,540 fps

Nosler AccuBond LR 175 gr.

PRIMER

Winchester WLR

.308 WINCHESTER The NATO cartridge of choice, once-fired brass is easy to come by for the .308 Winchester, making it cheap to reload. The .308 is also accurate, versatile, highly efficient and chambered in a wide variety of rifle options. BULLET

BC

Powder

LOAD

VELOCITY

PRIMER

Barnes LRX 175 gr.

.508

Varget

41 gr.

2,400 fps

Fed 210

.30-06 SPRINGFIELD It’s safe to say more big-game hunters own 06s than any other cartridge. In the world of North American big-game hunting, when loaded with appropriate bullets, I’d contend that the hunter would want for nothing else, and here I include moose and brown bears. It’s that versatile. BULLET

BC

Powder

LOAD

VELOCITY

.560

H1000

59.5 gr.

2,390 fps

.485

W760

57.5 gr.

2,950 fps

Sierra GameKing 200 gr. SBT

PRIMER

Winchester WLR

Hornady GMX 180 gr. CCI 200

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PHOTO BY PATRICK MEITIN

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

[ELK]

(above) Many sports feel compelled to bring along a big gun with a large load to hunt elk when they would do well to use a smaller rifle with which they’re comfortable. It’s also wise to consider an ammunition with a suitable ballistic coefficient.

checking expansion and protecting the rear lead core. I used this bullet on those early elk from my .243 Winchester. Other soft-nosed bullets include bonded cores—interior lead chemically fused to the copper jacket to prevent separation—like Speer’s Grand Slam or Nosler’s AccuBond bullets, as examples. Classic soft-point bullets with high BCs also include Sierra’s heaviest-for-caliber GameKing series, with BCs in the upper .400s to upper .500s. Polymer-tipped bullets generally increase BC numbers, while anything labeled “long range” (granted they’re suitable for hunting applications), like Nosler’s AccuBond LR (Long Range) or Hornady’s ELD-X (Extremely Low Drag-eXpanding), takes these values as far as possible, respective of caliber. Also common today are lead-free, homogeneous pills constructed from copper alloy, often holding polymer tips to boost BC and act as a wedge to promote more reliable expansion. To my mind, in addition to those already mentioned, these epitomize what we’re discussing here: designs that have cemented my conviction that you don’t need a magnum cartridge to cleanly harvest elk. Copper is lighter than lead, so by necessity, these bullets are long for caliber, typically boosting BC. Prime examples include Barnes’ original X Bullets, Nosler’s E-Tip and Hornady’s GMX, all relinquishing BCs in the upper .400s to mid .500s.

The reloader can obviously capitalize on these options (see sidebar, “Pet Loads, Deer Rifles and Elk Loads,” pg. 85) by experimenting with various powder/bullet combinations to find one that groups well from their rifle. This gives you a much wider array of bullets to choose from to meet your goals. Those depending on factory ammunition need not fret, as manufacturers annually offer more loads holding premium bullets. Scour ammo catalogs or websites and you’ll surely find several of the bullets suggested above, ready to shoot out of the box. Sure, you’ll pay more for these premium loads than standard deer-hunting fodder, but for most hunters, elk hunts are special events, and the added expense is insignificant considering the big picture. Shoot several loads to find one your rifle prefers. Take Your Deer Rifle Elk Hunting Elk hunting is hugely exciting, adventurous and sometimes just a bit overwhelming, especially for the sport traveling far from home. You’ll have enough to wrap your head around without the added confusion of a new or borrowed rifle. Stick with what you know best. Use your familiar deer rifle for elk, and you’ll do just fine. But, heed these suggestions to ensure your ammo is up to the task of tackling North America’s toughest commonly hunted big-game animal. MP AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 | MODERN PIONEER | 87

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• HUNTING/SHOOTING •

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MOBILE

DEER CAMP

GO THE TENT ROUTE IN SEARCH OF WHITETAIL ADVENTURE

PHOTO BY TONY J. PETERSON

By Tony J. Peterson

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“Naturally, you also must accept the reality of spending several days in a canvas dome amid uncontrollable factors.”

A

weekend camping trip with no hunting involved is usually pretty pleasant, provided that Mother Nature doesn’t conspire to ruin things. However, when you pair up several days of tent living with hunting white-tailed deer, the opportunity for things to go south increases substantially. But, it doesn’t have to. In fact, operating from a mobile camp for a deer hunt can be a great experience. But, you must plan correctly and use the right gear. Naturally, you also must accept the reality of spending several days in a canvas dome amid uncontrollable factors.

Misery is Stupid In my younger years, I couldn’t afford to stay in a hotel every day when I took hunting trips, and quite frankly, I didn’t want to. I wanted to set up a tent, eat simply, live simply and maximize my time in the woods. I eventually realized that intentionally being uncomfortable was stupid. For most whitetail camps, you can drive your vehicle right to

the spot on which you’ll pitch your tent. This is different than a western backcountry adventure when you’re counting ounces in a pack and hauling your entire trip on your back. On a whitetail hunt, you can almost always outfit yourself with whatever you need to be comfortable. This is important on so many fronts. For me, it usually starts with sleep. Nothing saps the enjoyment from a hunting trip like exhaustion. When you’re sleeping in a tiny tent on a mountainside while hunting elk, exhaustion is a perpetual state of existence. For whitetails, it doesn’t need to be. You should be able to set up a comfortable tent with a quality cot, sleeping pad and sleeping bag. These are musts, and I rank the sleeping pad as the most important of the three. I use an oversized, 3-inch-thick pad that’s as comfortable as I’ve ever found for camping. I’d never pack it into the mountains, but it’s perfect for a whitetail hunt. A comfy pad, paired with a good sleeping bag and a sturdy cot, makes it much easier to sleep soundly. I say that while sitting in my office and

(below) Small tents are lighter and easier to set up than larger ones, but they also aren’t much fun to spend four or five days in. Consider erring on the side of larger rather than smaller when choosing a tent. You’ll be glad you did. (opposite) One of the benefits of tent camping during a whitetail-hunting trip is that you can often set up right where you’ll hunt, which simplifies the logistics.

PHOTOS BY TONY J. PETERSON

Little Tents, Little Fun If you find yourself shopping for a new tent, consider several things. First, while online shopping is a great way to buy many of life’s necessities, I don’t recommend it for tents. Go into a store and look at the tents you’re considering. Make sure the one you buy is large enough to fit your needs. For example, you might plan to go on a solo trip and decide that a two-man tent will be more than enough. It won’t. For some reason, tents are often advertised to accommodate more people than they actually do. For me, a four-man tent is perfect for comfortable solo trips, and a six-man tent is ideal for hunting with a buddy. Take a long look at them in person and you’ll see what I mean.

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[MOBILE CAMP]

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Camping is less expensive than staying at a motel, and it allows for in-camp game care and cooking. Nothing is better at the end of the day than grilling dinner over an open fire. PHOTOS BY TONY J. PETERSON

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[MOBILE CAMP]

“I’ve seen tents uprooted by serious gusts, and I’ve even had tent poles snap in windstorms.”

Mobile Deer Camp Tents

Four-Person Shelter For one or two hunters, a four-person tent like the Instinct Alaskan Guide four-

typing away, but I also remember many times where sleep was tough to come by. Because of that, I always pack a few extras on my trips. Foam earplugs are a must, not only because I occasionally have snoring hunting partners in my tent, but sometimes campgrounds are noisy. You might have other campers nearby who aren’t as concerned with turning in early, or you might have a pack of coyotes sounding off all night long close enough to keep you awake. I also always pack a battery-operated fan. This is a lifesaver when it’s hot in the early season, but can also provide some nice white noise for sleeping. Mine runs on four D batteries. It’s by far one of my best “tenting” investments. Real Benefits With comfort accounted for, let’s discuss the real benefits of tent camping for a deer-hunting trip. The most obvious and tangible is that it’s a low-cost way to spend some vacation time. Even rural motels will run you at least $50 per night, and in my experience, they might not provide any better accommodations than a wellprepped camp. Aside from savings, you can often camp right where you’re planning to hunt. This means less driving. Being able to walk out from camp to hunt is a major benefit, which can only truly be appreciated after you’ve done it a few times. Meals, Food Prep and Butchering Of course, you’re responsible for meals. I tend to look for campsites where I can start a fire. Nothing caps off a day like cooking over an open fire, but you’ll also want to pack a propane stove. The simplicity of a stove to heat water for coffee or oatmeal is always a welcome addition to camp. I often set up a small cook station in my tent (make sure to crack a window for ventilation) so I can heat water before I even get out of my sleeping bag in the morning. There’s nothing quite like waking up in a cold tent and sipping a hot cup of coffee a few minutes later. Food preparation is important, but so is taking care of any recently procured venison. If you’re camping for a deer hunt, you’ll hopefully face the task of butchering a deer. Try that in a motel

person tent from Cabela’s is ideal. This heavy-duty mobile shelter is large enough to comfortably house all of your gear, measures a shade over 5 feet tall at the center, and is designed to shrug off rain, snow and wind. MSRP: $600

> cabelas.com

Camp Comfortably Browning Camping offers an excellent choice in its Glacier, which features a base measurement of 8x9 feet, is outfitted with mesh storage pockets, and is designed with straight walls. This is important if you plan to use a cot (you should), because it promotes overall in-tent efficiency, and allows for a higher level of camping comfort. MSRP: $400

> browningcamping.com

The Bigger, the Better If you truly want to go big, consider the Rogue Expedition Upslope six-person base camp tent from Bass Pro Shops. This beast of a tent is waterproof yet breathable, features interior zippered polyester panels for heat retention, and offers a covered front vestibule for additional gear storage. MSRP: $400

> basspro.com

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parking lot sometime, and even if someone doesn’t call the cops, it’ll still be a terrible experience. In camp, you can hang a deer up and butcher it the way you want, provided you’ve got the tools. I always pack a cutting board or two, an assortment of knives, a bone saw and a gambrel on which to hang my deer. Of course, you must have the knowledge to piece a deer out correctly. It’s also important to recognize the conditions you might face. If you’re hunting the early season, it might be hot and dry. That means you’ve got to skin and quarter the deer, then get the quarters on ice ASAP. You also might deal with dust and flies. Several companies make game bags that can handle deer quarters, or in some cases, a whole deer. These are cheap insurance against meat spoilage and highly recommended. Stay Mobile It doesn’t happen often, but sometimes a hunting spot simply doesn’t produce. For me, that usually happens when I’m on public ground riddled with other hunters. If the pressure is too high, I pull up stakes and move to ground with fewer hunters. Making a move will determine just how mobile your camp is. While it’s nice to be comfortable and have a few amenities, it’s also advisable not to set up

(right) It’s unnecessary to be miserable while tent camping on a deer hunt. Make sure you’re prepared with the right gear. (below) After you break down camp and head home, make sure you spend some time properly airing out and storing your gear. Packing away a wet tent means you’ll get a stinky surprise when you unroll it for your next hunt. PHOTOS BY TONY J. PETERSON

Post-Hunt Camp Care After a hunt, it’s easy to get home and dump all of your gear in the garage. Don’t do that. Putting a rolled-up tent away for months that has even the slightest moisture on it can result in a ripe, unappealing surprise when you unroll it next time. Other things, like worn-out lantern mantles, dirty stoves and any gear that’s used and abused during a trip should be attended to before being stored. It’s extra work, and not much fun, but doing so will preserve your expensive gear and ensure that you’re ready for your next trip. Skip the post-hunt camp-care steps and you’ll regret it in the future.

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[MOBILE CAMP]

a camp you can’t break down and move within a few hours. It’s a hassle, but always worth it when the program is dead at your current spot. Know Your Tent The aforementioned misery that can accompany this hunting style almost always involves inclement weather. In my opinion, rain is worst, followed by extreme heat and, lastly, wind. Sometimes you get all three in the same trip. How well you handle nasty weather will depend on your tent’s quality and how you use it. I’ll never set up a tent without a rain fly, because I’ve been wet for six days in a tent and it was absolute misery. I also always fully stake down my tent, even if the weather is predicted to be calm and beautiful for my trip’s duration.

I’ve seen tents uprooted by serious gusts, and I’ve even had tent poles snap in windstorms. As for heat, that’s the toughest one. Sometimes it’s just unbearable in a tent, and the best you can do is open the windows and hope for a cool breeze. Of course, you can set up in the shade, which helps. Plus, heat usually subsides after sunset.

While it’s nice to have some amenities in camp for comfort, it’s also important to take into account that you might need to move. Find a balance between comfort and mobility, and you’ll be set for whatever you encounter.

Just Go! If you’re well prepared and think things through, living in a tent for a weeklong deer hunt can be an awesome experience. It takes the right planning and the right gear, but once you’ve covered both, it’s usually a matter of going, and of course, enjoying your time out there eating freshly grilled backstraps and sleeping the night away in your canvas home. MP

PHOTO BY TONY J. PETERSON

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SMALL STUFF WITH

BIG BENEFITS

Little things can make your shelter more livable By Michael D’Angona

H

aving a tent to shelter yourself from nature’s fury is almost mandatory when you’re forced to make do under the stars. However, what you normally get when purchasing a tent is just that, a tent. Usually no bells and whistles, no backup equipment and no luxury items are added to your initial purchase to make your stay just a bit more comfortable. Luckily for you, there are many sources to find just the right additions to make your outdoor stay more suited to your needs and tastes. From improved tent stability options to cargo holders to modern high-tech cordage and repair items, you are fortunate to have many options at your disposal. Like every aspect of camping, prepping or survival training, you can customize nearly any category, and now tent accessories can be added to the list.

1

BIG AGNES BLOWDOWN TENT ANCHOR

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2 GLOROPE TACTIGLO PARACORD Tripping over guy lines will be a thing of the past with Tactiglo reflective and glow paracord. Use this throughout your campsite to prevent trips and falls when traversing near your tent during the pitch blackness of night. Additionally, this cordage can be used anywhere you need true 550 paracord strength. Customize the amount of glow you need by choosing from one to four glo-tracers interwoven within the cordage. From highly visible for maximum effectiveness to very slight glow for more covert uses, this takes tent cordage to a whole new level.

Features

Features

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• No-skid fabric keeps anchor in place

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MSRP: $0.15 to $0.69 per foot

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glorope.com

1 3

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[CAMP CARE] 3 COLEMAN CPX 6 LIGHTED TENT FAN Bring light and air circulation into nearly any tent to create a comfortable nighttime experience. This simple fan provides air flow to reduce tent stuffiness, while providing enough light to play games and read maps or books. The fan is constructed of soft foam blades, safe for use around children. The bright light also doubles as a soft nightlight. The fan is portable, easy-to-use and a great comfort for everyone. Features • Compatible with most tents • Powered by four D batteries or A/C adapter (both sold separately) • Two speed modes

material will hold up through the night and last for years. When it’s time to move on, simply disassemble the unit and pack it away in its convenient storage bag for easy transport.

6 MSR GEAR STAKE HAMMER Don’t underestimate the value of a good stake hammer. Without it you’ll be fighting to get your tent set and secured, and after a long day in the bush, that’s a problem you

Features

don’t need. This heavy-duty hammer will drive

• Oversized for sleeping comfort

stakes with ease, even in the most troublesome

• 300-pound capacity

terrain. Perfectly balanced, and engineered to

• Rapid assembly

distribute the most force with minimal effort,

• Heavy-duty, durable construction

this hammer is indispensable and built to last.

• Zippered storage pocket

An integrated bottle opener lets you celebrate your quickly erected shelter.

MSRP: $129.95 eurekacamping.com

Features

5 MSR GEAR UNIVERSAL GEAR LOFT Don’t lose valuable gear when spending a

• 11 ounces • Hardened stainless steel • Includes lanyard

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night under the stars. This lightweight storage

• 99-lumen LED lights

loft keeps all of your small items safe, secure

• Fan and light run independently

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MSRP: $29.95

• Attaches with carabiner or magnetic plate

attaches to most tents wand its breathable

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• Durable construction

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socks or hats. Easily attachable and zippered to

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keep things in place, this containment loft is a must-have during any camping trip.

4 EUREKA CAMPING COT XL Don’t relegate yourself to sleeping on the

Features • Adjusts to nearly any tent

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• Lightweight mesh

comfortable night’s sleep on this heavy-duty

• Zippered pocket

collapsible cot. The unit easily fits into most

• Overhead out-of-the-way storage

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• Easy set up

to continue your adventures the next morning. Constructed of 600D by 300D durable polyester fabric with a reinforced backing, this

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4

5

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• SELF-RELIANCE •

Ancient

GLOW A TIME-TESTED, NO-BATTERIES-REQUIRED EMERGENCY LIGHTING SOLUTION By Kristi Cook

I

’m not a prepper in the strictest sense of the word. I don’t stockpile hundreds of pounds of beans and grains, nor do I collect MREs or maintain a military-sized arsenal. I do, however, stockpile skills my family will need in a grid-down situation or other long-term disaster. One of my favorite self-reliance skills is turning ordinary animal fat, beeswax and paraffin into emergency lighting that doesn’t require stashed batteries, solar chargers or hand cranks.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

(above) Candles made from beeswax burn slower, but the wax can be expensive and difficult to source in a crisis. (right) After trimming as much tissue and meat from the fat as possible, cut or process the fat into small pieces to speed up the melting process.

Choosing a Base Of all the possible candle bases, the easiest to work with is paraffin. Available commercially, its primary benefit is ease of access during non-emergency times. Paraffin produces a clean-burning candle with little to no smoke or odor, is relatively easy to release from molds, and is good for containers, pillars and dipped tapers. Recycling candle stumps and container wax is an excellent way to stretch paraffin supplies, and it’s a practice the frugal pioneers employed daily. Beeswax is another readily available candle base in many areas, or it may be purchased online. This natural wax has a higher melting point than general-purpose paraffin and animal fats, which creates a harder, slowerburning candle. Beeswax candles emit a slight honey smell and very little smoke with the right wick. The most significant downside, however, is its cost and potentially difficult acquisition in abnormal circumstances. Because of this, old-timers incorporated their limited beeswax supply into their paraffin or tallow/lard bases as a hardener to increase

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

“Animal fat … is likely the most ancient candle base, and … remains the most reliable …”

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[CANDLE MAKING]

RENDERING TALLOW OR LARD Before you can make tallow or lard candles,

P STEP 3

P STEP 4

You can either wet or dry render. Dry

Watch and listen for the fat to start hissing

rendering involves slowly heating the fat

and spitting. This is the fat releasing its

in a crockpot, skillet or pot with no water

impurities, water, etc. You’ll see small

added. The plus side is no concern over

pieces—sometimes called cracklings—float

Obtain fat from any part of the animal.

water remaining in the finished product

to the top. Once all of the fat is melted,

However, leaf fat (fat from around the

that may cause candles to go rancid. The

remove from heat. I like to strain through

kidneys) is the hardest and cleanest. Trim

downside is it can scorch easily if you heat

a cheesecloth-lined colander immediately

off as much tissue, skin and other non-fat

it too quickly. Wet rendering is the same

before the fat begins to cool.

particles as you can. This is easier if the fat is

as dry rendering, except you add about

almost frozen.

¼- to ½-cup water to the pan to prevent

you must first remove the fat’s impurities. It’s simple to do, but it does take some time.

P STEP 1

burning. If you let the fat render fully, the

P STEP 2 Cut fat into small pieces or toss into a food processor and pulse until it resembles ground meat.

water will evaporate and won’t pose any rancidity issues. In both methods, slowly heat the fat, stirring periodically. You’ll notice changes as the fat begins to melt. This may take half an hour to several hours,

P STEP 5 Proceed with candle making at this point, or pour the hot fat into a skillet or cake pan and allow to cool. Once it hardens, pop it out and freeze or leave in refrigerator for later use.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

depending on the size of your batch.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

The Candle-Making Process P STEP 1 :

Using a double boiler, place tallow/lard, beeswax or paraffin

into the pot. Be sure to use a pot that can be dedicated to candle making if

P STEP 4 : Once the base melts, add beeswax or stearic acid (if using), and gently stir until fully melted.

you’re using beeswax or paraffin. Heat over medium heat until fully melted. A thermometer is unnecessary for emergency candles since you’re not concerned about blemishes.

P STEP 2 :

While candle base is melting, cover workspace with paper to

catch any drips, and set out/prepare molds and containers. Keep a set of potholders handy in case you need to move the hot containers before the wax has time to cool.

P STEP 3 :

Cut wicking several inches longer than needed. Tie a hex nut or

other small but heavy item to the end of the wick to keep the wick from floating in the container or curling when dipped. The hex nut will be removed from the hardened taper or recycled after the candle burns out. Alternatively, purchase wick tabs and glue dots to fasten wicking to the bottom of the container. Use pencils, bamboo skewers or other items to keep the wick centered until the wax hardens.

P STEP 5 : Slowly pour wax into mold or container or begin making dipped tapers.

P STEP 6:

If making dipped tapers, dip quickly and hang wicking from

a rack until hardened. Repeat dipping multiple times until taper reaches desired width. Once completed and fully hardened, cut the nut from the end of the taper.

P STEP 7 :

For molds, allow wax to cool completely. Take mold apart

or lightly tap on hard surface to remove candle. Candles may be burned immediately or saved for later use. It’s best to store tallow- and/or lardbased candles in a dark, cool location such as an extra refrigerator, root cellar or basement to prevent softening during warm weather.

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[CANDLE MAKING]

“Beeswax candles emit a slight honey smell and very little smoke with the right wick.” a very slight “food” smell when extinguised; however, this smell has never lingered more than a few seconds. Molds and Containers Molds and containers may also be made from readily available materials. Cylindrical potato-chip containers, waxed drink boxes and even sturdy old paper-towel rolls will work. These will, of course, be one-use molds as

(below, left) Tying hex nuts or similar items to the ends of wicking when dipping tapers helps to keep the growing candles straight as they harden. PHOTO BY KRISTI COOK (below, right) Recycled glass jars, soup cans and old cotton materials can be used to make sufficient emergency lighting. PHOTO BY KRISTI COOK

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

burn time while minimizing their candlemaking costs. Animal fat, which is my favorite, is likely the most ancient candle base, and it remains the most reliable material in times of need. Essentially free to hunters and livestock owners, any animal fat—sheep, elk, caribou, bear, etc.—may be used with mostly minor differences. For instance, lard made from pig fat tends to be softer, and thereby fasterburning, than tallow from beef or venison. Just know that the softer the fat, the faster it burns and the less likely it will make suitable pillars or dipped candles, unless a hardener such as beeswax or commercially available stearic acid is added. Instead, these softer fats are better suited for containers, which have the added benefit of being nice and tidy with no wax leakage. As for smoking or odor, none that I’ve made to date have had either, except

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The Wick Wicking is, perhaps, the most difficult aspect of candle making. The problem

is that each base and candle size requires a different type of wicking to produce the best burn. Purchased wicking is more reliable than hand-made wicks, as manufacturers have suggestions for which styles work best with each particular wax/base. The exception, however, is animal fat; most don’t list that base as an option. My general rule when using tallow and lard is to use wicking made for softer waxes, such as soy or vegan, yet this doesn’t always work. For instance, I have some zinc-core wicking that states it’s only good for paraffin wax, yet it works beautifully in my tallow containers. So, it’s best to experiment with a few small batches to determine which wicking works best for your situation. If, however, you’re unable to access premade wicking, find sources of cotton material. Old cotton clothing, bedsheets and even cotton yarn may be used. While the burn won’t be as

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

they’ll need to be pulled off the candle prior to lighting. Other options include PVC pipe sliced down the middle to make a two-piece mold. Just duct tape the two pieces together with a piece of cardboard taped to the bottom. Once the wax hardens and cools, cut the tape away and pull the candle out. Or, if you’re preparing emergency lighting ahead of your time of need, you can purchase pre-made molds to fit any candle style. For container candles, almost any nonflammable container will do. Old jelly jars, mason jars, soup cans and even sturdy heat-proof pottery work nicely. Be creative, and you’ll find molds and containers just about anywhere.

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[CANDLE MAKING]

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

“If you let the fat render fully, the water will evaporate and won’t pose any rancidity issues …”

(above right) Container candles are a tidy option that’s especially safe and useful when pets and small children are present.

efficient as with pre-made wicking, handmade wicks work just fine when the need for emergency lighting strikes. Simply cut thin strips of material, and braid or twist together tightly. Soak wicking for several minutes in your candle base prior to making the candles, and allow to harden as straight as possible. If your lengths are long, you can then roll it into a loose ball for easy storage and cut as needed. Again, experimentation is key. However, in this case, it’s best to experiment before a grid-down situation occurs to build your handmadewicking skills. That way, you’ll be sufficiently prepared in a crisis when resources are extremely limited. Choose a Style Once you have everything in place, determine if you want to make pillars, containers, tapers or votives. Each has its own

benefits and downsides, so it’s wise to have a variety whenever possible. For low light that doesn’t travel far, small votives placed in a mostly covered container work quite well. For the brightest lighting, tapers and pillars seem to work best in a glass, lantern-style holder with reflectors. And yet, I like tin-can or container candles best when little ones or pets are running underfoot. Let There be Light Old-fashioned candle making is a fun and useful skill to have using materials you may already have at home. When burning your own creation, you’ll discover a sense of comfort knowing you can fill the need for lighting in a pinch, no matter the situation. Plus, it rekindles the ancient glow of our ancestors and the light source they always turned to long before flashlights and batteries were invented. MP AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 | MODERN PIONEER | 105

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• HUNTING/SHOOTING •

FATAL

ATTRACTION HUNT NEAR IRRESISTIBLE FRUIT TREES TO BAG YOUR NEXT WHITETAIL

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY

By Mike Yancey

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

[WHITETAIL]

Persimmons draw deer like magnets. Hunt near a persimmon tree when the fruit is ripe and get ready for the action.

E

very step was carefully placed with all attention focused on getting closer, undetected, for a high-percentage shot with the longbow in my hand. With each step, my excitement surged full-throttle. I could feel my heart pounding swiftly as the moment’s intensity grew. My prey was feeding in the shade of a large persimmon tree, totally unaware of my presence. As the bowstring came back to my anchor point, my wooden arrow departed perfectly. The shot was clean, resulting in a quick kill. It was my first deer with a longbow! Fruit trees are a whitetail’s weak spot, and you can exploit that weakness this fall and fill your freezer with precious red meat.

Persimmons are Money Spots In Arkansas, where I live, a whitetail’s life revolves around the mast crop consisting of many oak varieties. But, in most years, the acorn drop happens a little later than the persimmons, making this early-bearing fruit tree a deer hotspot. The sweet fruit draws both does and fawns, as well as bachelor groups of bucks, daily until the acorns begin to fall. Early-season whitetail hunting can be as exciting as the November rut, but only if you play your cards right and do some pre-season scouting. Unlike the rut-crazed bucks that you deal with later in fall, early-season whitetails have but one thing on their minds: food. Food

BOLSTER THE YIELD: Fruit Trees and Fertilizer An easy way to manage land for whitetails is to fertilize fruit trees in late winter or early spring that you intend to hunt near in

and one that has not. They’ll visit the fertilized tree first. By applying fertilizer all around the limb line of your chosen

fall. A quality fertilizer mix applied this time of year will make your

tree, every plant and vine in the area will benefit from the minerals

fruit tree the most alluring in the area for miles, and deer will know

applied, which, in turn, will make them more palatable to the

it. I’ve seen it time after time: Fertilized trees draw deer when there

browsing deer in the area. Every winter and spring, I apply about

are dozens just like it within sight and dropping fruit at the same

2 gallons of 13-13-13 fertilizer to trees that I hunt. My efforts have

time. They can taste the difference in one that has been fertilized

been proven worthwhile.

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MP_1708_109 6/16/17 3:29 AM Page 109

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[WHITETAIL]

“A quality fertilizer mix … will make your fruit tree the most alluring in the area for miles …”

Exploit the Predictability If left undisturbed, early-season deer are as predictable as tax season; you can almost set your clock by their daily movements. With some game cameras placed in a few well-scouted areas, you can track these patterns and formulate a solid opening-day plan. Be sure to consider prevailing winds when strategizing ambush locations, always hunting on the downwind side of where deer travel and feed. Oftentimes, deer will visit persimmon trees religiously and at the same time each day because they feel safe and undisturbed. Don’t wreck that pattern by hanging a stand and dispersing scent one week before season. Instead, do it in winter or spring. Why?

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

sources are, at times, difficult to identify. But, I can help straighten the learning curve. I’ve been blessed to hunt the same persimmon tree on my parent’s farm for more than 40 years now. In that time, it has produced more early-season deer for my dad and me than you could ever imagine. The tree is located in a perfectly formed funnel where a farm road and two fence corners meet. But, the special thing about this tree is that it’s an American persimmon, which, during the 40-plus years that I’ve hunted it, failed to produce fruit only one year.

Although most deer populations rely on mast like the acorns dropped from oak trees, they enjoy sweet, ripe fruit and will go out of their way to frequent any trees dropping produce in their area.

Traditional Bowhunting and Flintlock Rifle Hunting Early-season whitetail hunting in most states means either archery or muzzleloader seasons. Both of these seasons are prime times to hunt fruit-bearing trees. An added advantage is that bows are close-range weapons. The beauty of a fruit-tree setup is that you know where your shot will be, and you can place your stand an ideal distance away.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

flintlock rifles and traditional

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MP_1708_111 6/22/17 4:38 AM Page 111

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“My prey was feeding in the shade of a large persimmon tree, totally unaware of my presence.”

PINE HOLLOW

Custom Longbows Through my company, Pine Hollow, I produce high-quality hunting bows designed to provide years of performance, as well as the simplistic beauty of a bow handcrafted from all-natural products. I limit orders each year so I can build a bow that meets my standards. I will not rush. I take my time so I can build the best possible bow. These are the three custom bows I offer: CHEYENNE The Cheyenne is Pine Hollow’s shortest Osage bow, perfectly suited for use in confined spaces like treestands and ground blinds. Because of its compact design, it’s deflexed for smoothness, then reflexed to add a little zip to the cast. These bows normally run 52-54 inches in length, but requests for specific lengths are welcomed. MSRP: $1,200 MEDICINE MAN The Medicine Man is Pine Hollow’s original Osage flatbow. They’re normally either nonbacked or backed with rawhide only, however, they can be sinew-backed, if you like. They normally run 60-66 inches. They have no built-in deflex, but will naturally settle in a bit, so the limb tips are reflexed to get the best performance. The Medicine Man is a very stable, easy-to-shoot hunting bow. MSRP: $1,200 GHOST DANCER FLATBOW Like the Medicine Man, the Ghost Dancer is an Osage flatbow, but under the rawhide backing is a sinew power layer. Ghost Dancer bows normally measure 60-66 inches. Due to the sinew backing, they generally don’t settle in as much as the Medicine Man, but Pine Hollow still reflexes the tips to get the best performance the wood and sinew offer. Pound for pound, this is Pine Hollow’s hardest-hitting bow. MSRP: $1,200 For more information, visit pinehollowlongbows.com.

Persimmons aren’t dropping fruit during this time, so you can go in without pestering the deer and do your work, then return months later to hunt undisturbed deer on opening day. When setting up ambushes, be sure to trim shooting lanes. Predictability is the aspect I love most about early-season hunting. Deer haven’t experienced weeks of hunting pressure. All you must do is learn when persimmon trees start producing the fruit that draws them year after year. Mature does know every tree in the area, and will train their young in their uses. Bachelor groups of bucks also visit persimmon trees, and I prefer to target them, although a fine-eating doe is hard to pass up. Access is Key When targeting a specific persimmon tree to hunt, I always consider stand access. Oftentimes, easy-access trees are located on farms that have daily chores/activities where human scent abounds, unlike a wilderness-type setup. Nevertheless, you still must approach carefully when you hunt. The weather is often very warm in the early days of archery season, and you want to leave an area as undisturbed by human scent as possible. If you have to fight through brush and walk long distances to access a stand, you’ll surely cause commotion and contaminate the area with excess human scent. This will likely change their pattern, making them unpredictable. Pears, Another Solid Bet Pear trees located on farms and abandoned homesteads are also common in my area, and are equally as productive as persimmons. Apple trees might be available in your area, too. Really, any fruit-bearing tree can be

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[WHITETAIL]

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Yancey happily arrowed this doe for the freezer while hunting near an old, reliable persimmon tree. PHOTO BY MIKE YANCEY

dynamite in early season, and you must capitalize when the fruit is ripe and dropping. These few weeks can be outstanding, but you must get out there, regardless of heat and insects. When the Fruit Drops Late So far, we’ve primarily addressed early-season hunting, but if you locate a tree that’s producing fruit and drawing deer later in the season as the rut approaches, does and fawns will likely be regulars, and soon the mature bucks will scent-check the area downwind of the fruit tree for a hot doe. At this time, anything can happen. You may even encounter a buck you didn’t know existed. Of course, bucks aren’t as predictable during the pre-rut, but they’ll be there sooner or later. You might not be on stand when he comes by checking, and he might never return. That’s why you must seize every opportunity to hunt fruit trees while they’re producing. MP AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 | MODERN PIONEER | 113

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGE

• SURVIVAL •

6/22/17 3:13 AM

The

CHILL That Kills Hypothermia’s cold hard facts By Michael D’Angona

F

or most people, being cold is uncomfortable, yet tolerable. Goose bumps may rise on their skin, their limbs and teeth may tremble or their bodies can experience “the chills,” but it usually ends there. Wearing warmer clothing, increasing the heat within their home or sipping warm beverages can help raise their body’s internal temperature back to normal. However, not everyone is so lucky. Unexpected events like being stranded in the wild, wearing clothing saturated by an unforeseen rainstorm, or accidentally falling into a river or pond can bring on a time-sensitive killer called hypothermia. Once this dealer of death has you in its grip, it’s difficult to escape, but not impossible. The key to surviving this seemingly unsolvable problem lies not only in understanding the physical stages of death by cold, but by also learning preventive measures.

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“… elevate yourself off the ground when sleeping. The cold earth will sap your body heat at an alarming rate …”

PHOTO COURTESY OF BIGSTOCK

Warning Signs Unfortunately, many people who fall victim to hypothermia don’t realize it’s happening until it’s too late. Of course, everyone shivers

Although hypothermia is mostly known to strike in winter-like environments, it can affect a person in the jungle, tropics or even the desert.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

A roaring fire can help reduce the chances of hypothermia taking over your body. Drinking warm beverages and layering your clothing also goes a long way to keep you warm.

Stealthy Killer Unfortunately, many people think hypothermia can only happen in arctic-style conditions where snow, sleet and intense cold weather are present. This is totally untrue. In fact, believing this fallacy can lead people to underestimate weather conditions, allowing this stealthy killer to creep up on them when and where they least expect it. Normal body temperature is 98.6°F. Hypothermia, by definition, occurs when the human body loses heat faster than it can produce it, causing dangerously low body temperatures. It only takes a drop of a few degrees to instigate this deadly condition. As such, and sometimes difficult to believe, hypothermia can strike people in climates such as tropical islands, jungles and even in the heart of a desert. It’s the conditions that are all around you that matter and must be considered, not just the temperature of your surroundings. Other catalysts that bring on hypothermia can include abstract characteristics such as a person’s age and overall medical condition, damp or wet attire, local wind speed and direction, or just plain lack of preparation.

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when they’re cold, whether outside in a makeshift camp or inside an under-heated home. However, few realize that shivering is the initial stage of hypothermia because, in most instances, they’ll stop the shivering by either adding more clothing layers or building a fire to get warm. For those without these options, their bodies proceed to stage two, which is the state of confused thinking and poor decision making. As the body gets colder and a person’s core temperature drops, their mental faculties begin to deteriorate. This can lead a person to take risks, which can cause further problems aside from hypothermia’s onset. Some people have been known to strip off their clothes during this confused state, further increasing the rate at which their core temperature drops. They become clumsier than normal, and risk injury from falls or other mishaps. Their coordination decreases, which can cause them to incur injuries from using knives or other sharp tools, and their overall body movements become sluggish and lethargic. From there, their breathing will slow, their pulse will weaken, and they will progressively lose consciousness. At this point, the worst will happen: They will perish. It’s crucial that everyone understand these stages, because once a person’s thinking is affected by the severe body-temperature drop, it’s very difficult

PHOTO COURTESY OF BIGSTOCK

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGE

[HYPOTHERMIA]

Undressing to Get Warm? Alarmingly, 20-50% of hypothermia victims die after paradoxical undressing. This is a state of hypothermia that occurs during the moderate to severe stage in which the unfortunate victim inexplicably discards their clothing, which increases their body’s rate of temperature loss. The person under this strange influence is usually confused, disorientated and sometimes combative and aggressive. Theories vary as to why this happens. One suggests that the part of the brain that regulates temperature, the hypothalamus, malfunctions during extreme cold weather; while another suggests that contracted blood vessels can suddenly relax, releasing a surge of blood and heat, tricking the victim into thinking their body is overheating. No matter what causes this unique, yet deadly characteristic of hypothermia, it can be avoided if precautions are taken before one ventures outside, and to never allow your fragile body to reach those dangerous and ultimately deadly levels of cold.

An unfortunate road accident can put you in a life or death fight with hypothermia.

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for them to employ a logical solution before it’s too late.

A bivvy can reduce the chances of hypothermia. Used in conjunction with a sleeping bag, it can reflect nearly 90% of your own body heat. PHOTO COURTESY OF S.O.L SURVIVE OUTDOORS LONGER

“… hypothermia can be avoided if you escape the elements and wait out storms, or even fierce winds, under a durable shelter.”

Warming Up At the onset of hypothermia, your method of fighting this silent killer is, of course, to warm yourself up. Your first line of defense is layering your clothing. Proper layering, as opposed to wearing one thick piece of clothing, will keep your body temperature warm when you’re exposed to the cold. The preferred method of layering consists of a wicking layer: a type of polyester that keeps your skin dry. This is followed by wool or other insulating fabric that breathes, yet provides excellent warmth. The last part of layering is a waterproof and windproof outer layer, which will keep you dry in wet conditions. You can always add more layers, if needed, and be sure to carry spare clothing in case you unexpectedly get wet. Avoid cotton clothing. Cotton breathes too much, doesn’t insulate well, and takes too long to dry when wet. Of course, kindling a fire during your time outdoors can take away the chill and keep you cozy throughout the night. Be sure to carry more than one method to start a fire; experts suggest stocking at least five different items. Wet matches, a broken lighter or stubborn tinder can cause undue stress while trying to get warm. Remember, have a back-up for your

Few people imagine that a desert can be a location where hypothermia is a real possibility. Its dramatic temperature extremes can catch unprepared visitors by surprise and cause the worst-case scenario to occur.

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[HYPOTHERMIA] back-up, and your chances of survival from hypothermia will increase. Finally, wind is your foe. If you’re even slightly wet, fierce or even slow, steady winds can further reduce your core temperature. Create a wind block with whatever materials you have, and don’t move from there until it subsides. Furthermore, when camped, elevate yourself off the ground when sleeping. The cold earth will sap your body heat at an alarming rate. Build an elevated bed, if possible, or create a thick mattress of leaves, brush or other natural insulation materials. Many new visitors to the outdoors don’t realize that an elevated platform, when sleeping under the stars, is just as important as—if not more than— creating a cover over your head. Often, people sleeping on the cold ground don’t realize that heat is being extracted from their bodies while they sleep, making them susceptible to moderate or advanced hypothermia.

PHOTO COURTESY OF WAZOO SURVIVAL GEAR

Inexpensive, disposable lighters can be a lifesaver when a fire is needed to literally keep you alive. Think simple, and always carry a lighter!

Hand and foot warmers can help take the chill out of your extremities. Frostbite mixed with hypothermia is a dangerous and deadly combination. PHOTOS COURTESY OF COGHLAN’S

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGE

Medical Intervention Hypothermia is a medical condition that requires professional medical assistance to treat. If you encounter someone suffering from any stage of hypothermia, alert medical authorities immediately. However, while you wait for them, there are some things you can do to assist in their recovery. If the person

This stylish necklace also doubles as a handy fire starter. Secured around your neck, you’ll always have it nearby and ready to use.

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[HYPOTHERMIA]

“Once this dealer of death has you in its grip, it’s difficult to escape …” has no pulse and you are skilled in CPR (true CPR training, not just an idea of how to do it), administer the technique until you feel a pulse. However, if the person is breathing, remove any cold or wet clothing, wrap the victim in dry, warm blankets and be sure to lift them off the cold floor or bare earth, and immediately get them to a warmer area. Be Smart and Consider the Risks Although hypothermia is a very real condition that, at times, can’t be avoided, you can and should plan as thoroughly as possible to avoid this slow harbinger of death. Your first line of defense is to view the weather forecast for the area you’ll be frequenting. Know if rain or wind storms are expected, as well as the current and extreme temperature variations that you might encounter. These forecasts will assist you in choosing the proper attire, including any hats, gloves or water-resistant clothing.

Second, consider possible emergency scenarios that you might face during your outing, and plan accordingly how you would be rescued if such situations actually happen. Alert others of your outdoor plans, and agree upon set times that you’ll check in with them. If you fail to check in, then they’ll know you need help and will seek the proper search-andrescue personnel. Shelter choice is also a top priority, because hypothermia can be avoided if you escape the elements and wait out storms, or even fierce winds, under a durable shelter. Thinking that you can create one on a moment’s notice out in the woods is not only foolish, but a sure way to die as your core temperature drops to extremely dangerous levels. Natural shelters, including overhanging rock formations and large caves or manmade dwellings, such as abandoned houses or barns, are perfect to escape nature’s pounding. In a pinch, a tube tent, waterproof tarp or even a strung-up plastic poncho can help keep moisture, and eventually hypothermia, away from you until the sun shines again. Now that you understand how hypothermia can kill without warning, be prepared for anything and make wise decisions. It could save you from the chill that kills. MP

Not all Drinks are Created Equal Recovering from hypothermia takes time. It shouldn’t be rushed to speed up the process. Sipping certain beverages, when instructed by a medical professional, can be a step in the right direction. But which ones? There are some major dos and don’ts when administering liquids to help a hypothermia victim. ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES The benefits of drinking alcoholic beverages is a myth that must be avoided when nursing a hypothermia victim back to health. Even though liquor will feel warm when consumed as it travels down the throat, it actually pulls heat away from the body’s core and inhibits the body from properly warming back up. Avoid alcohol until the person is fully recovered and ready to celebrate their victory. WARM TEA A warm tea beverage will feel great to the HOT CHOCOLATE

hypothermic victim, but it won’t go far to

mild vasodilator and draw blood from the

help raise their core temperature. If the tea is

extremities, resulting in a somewhat colder

sweetened with sugar or honey, however, the

core, thus harming, as opposed to helping,

good to the victim, the actual heat from

simple carbohydrates will kick-start the body’s

the victim.

the beverage won’t do very much good to

ability to get warm, so it’s not a bad choice.

warm up their core temperature SODA

COFFEE A hot coffee sounds like a great way to

Even though the warm liquid will feel

Cold and caffeinated? Not a good

(the quantity is far too little). However, the simple sugars in the hot chocolate

choice. Only the sugars in the soda may be

will begin to get the patient’s internal

warm a hypothermic person, but beware.

beneficial, but it’s not worth the tradeoff of its

furnace ignited again and start the

If the coffee is caffeinated, it may act as a

overwhelmingly negative effects. Avoid it.

warming process.

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Especially popular in Texas and Louisiana, gumbo was first introduced to America by Creole and Cajun settlers of French heritage.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

• GENERAL •

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HISTORIC STEWS Unique, region-specific tastes from around the U.S. By Michael Pendley

T

raditional meat stews have existed since before the written word. Huntergatherers worldwide would boil what they could find in a hollowed rock, an animal skin or, later, in clay pots. Different regions of the world developed different styles of stew using local ingredients. As the United States was settled, immigrants from around the world arrived here with their own stew recipes. They used the same recipes with ingredients from their new home to make new regional dishes. While these new stews feature distinct ingredients, they share a few similarities, too. Chief among these is the inclusion of locally sourced meat and produce. Since these stews were often meant to feed a large crowd, they regularly included several meats, with each family supplying a small amount of whatever was on hand. Because of this community involvement, cooking up stew drew crowds from all around. In time, these gatherings became regular festivals. Recipes were further refined, and regional dishes were born. Let’s sample some of these regional stews and their origins, and I’ll provide a few recipes for you and your family to try at home.

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“Owing to its French roots, [booyah] is flavored with fresh herbs.” REGIONAL AMERICAN STEWS

(opposite) A large pot of burgoo simmers slowly over an open fire. Long on tomatoes and vegetables, burgoo usually contains a mixture of meats, including barbecued mutton. PHOTO BY MARK MAESTLE

Burgoo Move a bit south from traditional booyah locales and you find burgoo. Popular in Ohio, Illinois and Kentucky, burgoo is another stew that’s popular for large gatherings. Traditional meats for burgoo included pork, mutton, chicken, rabbit, venison and squirrel. Today, burgoo recipes often omit the wild game, some might say to the finished recipe’s detriment. Unlike some other regional stews, burgoo meats were often slow-smoked over hickory before being added to the pot. While the origins of burgoo are murky at best, there’s a fairly reliable record of French chef Gustave Jaubert. After serving General John Hunt Morgan in the Civil War, Jaubert was hired as the company cook for what today is Buffalo Trace Distillery, then known as the Old

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

(below) Local produce adds distinction to regional stew recipes throughout the United States .

Booyah Hailing from the upper Midwest, immigrants from Belgium developed booyah from the French word “bouillon.” Like most stews, booyah starts with a stock base. Traditional meats for the stew include beef short ribs, chicken and often pork. Fresh local vegetables—peas, celery, onions, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes and rutabagas—were added to the meat base. Owing to its French roots, the stew is flavored with fresh herbs. Traditionally, the stew was cooked in a large booyah pot, often holding 30 gallons or more, over an open fire. Interestingly, the term “booyah” also describes the social event surrounding the dish. These parties often last days, while the stew takes as long as 36-48 hours to cook. Residents from around the area supply produce from their gardens or larders and take turns watching over the fire as the stew slowly simmers.

October is booyah-festival season throughout Wisconsin. Folks at many of these gatherings cook pots of booyah up to 100 gallons in size, slow-simmered for a day or more, before the festival even begins.

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[STEW]

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(top) The Burgoo House at Buffalo Trace Distillery still houses the two giant, woodfired burgoo pots that were used to feed the employees and distillery guests. PHOTO BY CHERYL PENDLEY (below) Some claim that the first Brunswick stew was made on St. Simon Island, Georgia, in 1898. PHOTO BY MICHAEL RIVERA

Fired Copper Distillery. Jaubert’s fame quickly spread, and his burgoo came to be in high demand for large social events. One such event was covered by the Louisville Courier-Journal and reprinted in The New York Times, where the recipe was described as containing, “400 pounds of beef, six dozen chickens, four dozen rabbits, thirty cans of tomatoes, twenty dozen cans of corn, fifteen bushels of potatoes, and five bushels of onions.” The article noted that Jaubert, assisted by 10 cooks, slow-simmered 1,000 gallons of burgoo over a period of days. The resulting burgoo was served alongside barbecued meats, a tradition that lives on today in multiple burgoo festivals around the region. The Burgoo House still stands at Buffalo Trace, along with two of Jaubert’s large burgoo pots and a copy of Master Distiller Albert Blanton’s favorite burgoo recipe from the late1800s. Interestingly, Blanton’s recipe included an astounding 26 ingredients. Today, almost all burgoo recipes contain smoked mutton. Regional areas of Kentucky have become known for cooking the strongly flavored meat, and its gamy flavor has transferred to the stew the area has perfected.

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[STEW]

Gumbo Move southwest of the Brunswick stew area to the swamps of east Texas and Louisiana, and you find perhaps America’s most well known regional stew. Born from a mixture of the French-heritage Creole and Cajun settlers of the area and their love of roux, and the native Choctaws and their use of powdered filé (dried and ground sassafras leaves), even the word “gumbo” is derived from the West African word for okra, a central ingredient in many gumbo recipes. Perhaps no other stew has as many variations as gumbo. Depending on the cook, gumbo may contain either local meats or seafood. One thing all gumbo recipes share is a start with a dark roux, which is simply a mixture of flour and fat or oil, cooked over low heat and constantly stirred until it becomes a deep mahogany brown. Walk away while the roux cooks, and it can burn instantly. Once the roux is finished, the meat for gumbo can be seafood, wild game or sausage and chicken. Generally, sausage can be added to any gumbo, but seafoods generally aren’t mixed with other meats. The cooking liquid is also the center of some controversy. Some recipes call for tomatoes, while other gumbo cooks say stock is the only way to go, and a true gumbo cook would never use tomatoes. Filé or okra can be used as a thickener. Other

PHOTO COURTESY OF THINKSTOCK

Brunswick Stew Head east and south from burgoo country and you find Brunswick stew. Both Brunswick County, Virginia, and Brunswick, Georgia, take credit for the dish’s invention. While the Georgia version claims an origin date of 1898, the Virginia claim boasts an even earlier date of 1828 when it was first concocted at a hunting camp. A third possible beginning for Brunswick stew lies with the Native Americans of the region, who were cooking and eating a similar stew of local ingredients long before the first European settlers arrived. Regardless of its origin, both stews are tomato-based, heavy on lima or butter beans, and both versions started with wild game. The two stews differ in the use of potatoes. The North Carolina version uses potatoes to thicken the stew, while the Georgia version is thinner. Along with its thickened base, the North Carolina recipe also uses smoked pork as the principle meat, lending an overall smokier flavor. Both versions often incorporate beef, chicken or other meats. Like burgoo and booyah, numerous festivals are held throughout both states each fall. Cookers for each festival show up a day or two before the start date to build fires and begin cooking the stews in gigantic cast-iron kettles. Unlike the stews popular in the north, Brunswick stew often incorporates okra. Regional vegetables like okra are one of the defining characteristics in the area-specific stews of the United States.

BURGOO Yield: Serves 15-20; recipe can be cut in half to server fewer people

2 pounds beef shank (bone-in) 1 4-pound chicken, quartered 8 quarts cold water 1 ½ pounds potatoes, diced 3 onions, diced 1 bunch carrots, peeled and thickly sliced 2 green bell peppers, seeded and chopped 2 cups chopped cabbage 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes 2 cups whole corn, fresh or canned 2 cups sliced okra (frozen is fine) 1 15.5-ounce can lima beans 1 cup celery, diced 1 pound barbecued pulled pork 1 pound barbecued mutton (smoked and shredded) 1 cup Kentucky bourbon 2 tablespoons Tabasco sauce 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce Salt and pepper

DIRECTIONS

1

Simmer beef shanks and chicken in 8 quarts of water for

one to two hours, then remove from pot to cool, shred meat from bone and set aside.

2

Return stock to a boil, and then add potatoes, onions, carrots, bell peppers, cabbage, tomatoes, corn, okra, lima beans and celery. Cook one hour.

3

Add beef, chicken, pork and mutton to pot. Simmer for another hour or two. Add bourbon, Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

(top) A cast-iron pot over an open fire is a classic way to make any of these regional stews. The smoke helps flavor the stew, giving it a more traditional taste versus stew made on a cooktop. (below) Mark Maestle tends a pot of burgoo. The stew slowly simmers over an open fire for hours. PHOTO BY MARK MAESTLE

recipes don’t call for an additional thickener, simply relying on the flour from the roux to add body to the gumbo. Regardless of the recipe, gumbos are usually served over a bowl of white rice. The Pot Since most of these regional stews were first designed to feed large gatherings, they were initially cooked in giant iron kettles over open fires. While not many of us are feeding hundreds of people at a time these days, cast iron is still the way to go when it comes to cooking these dishes. A Dutch oven holds enough to feed a large family or make plenty of leftovers to freeze for later. If your recipe contains lots of high-acid tomatoes, an enameled Dutch oven is best. Whether well-seasoned cast iron or enamelcoated, these pots will hold an even heat at low temperatures over just about any heat source, from kitchen range to campfire. Fine Dining Making hearty and historic stews like the ones I’ve outlined here is a great way to preserve cultural heritage in our modern society, and they taste phenomenal, too. Try them; I believe you’ll agree. MP

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

[STEW]

Duck and Sausage Gumbo Yield: Serves 5-7

4 duck or goose breasts (or two whole ducks, quartered) ¾ cup peanut or vegetable oil 1 cup Kentucky Colonel or your favorite brand of seasoned flour 2 bell peppers, seeded and diced 2 stalks celery, diced 2 medium white onions, diced 1 pound spicy smoked sausage, cut into ¾-inch-thick slices 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 quarts water 1 quart chicken stock 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon tomato paste 2 teaspoons filé powder (available in the spice aisle) Salt and pepper

DIRECTIONS

1

Season the fowl well with salt and pepper. Heat oil over medium-high heat. Brown the meat in batches, stirring and flipping until all sides are deep golden brown and slightly crispy.

stirring. The flour will quickly go from white to toasted-almond color. Keep stirring. As the roux darkens, the texture will change, going from grainy to smooth. When the roux is slightly darker than smooth peanut butter (15-20 minutes), add the bell peppers, celery and onions. Stir to coat everything well with the browned roux. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the vegetables begin to soften. Return the fowl to the pot. Add the sausage and garlic. Stir well.

3

Pour in water and chicken stock. Add the Cajun seasoning, bay leaves, tomato paste and filé powder. Turn up heat and bring gumbo to a simmer. Reduce heat, cover the pot and simmer for at least two hours.

4

To serve, spoon some cooked white rice into a bowl and ladle over the gumbo. Enjoy the gumbo with a chunk of crusty French bread to sop up the juice.

2

Move the browned meat to a warm platter and add the seasoned flour to the oil left in the pan. Stir to coat the flour in oil. Reduce heat to medium and keep

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[ past pioneering ] Alexander Mackenzie (1764 -1820) Fur Trader and Explorer > By Darryl Quidort TWELVE YEARS BEFORE LEWIS AND CLARK made their historic overland trip to the Pacific Ocean, explorer Alexander Mackenzie had already attained that goal, though documentation of his journey isn’t nearly as widespread.

Born to Explore

Born in Scotland, Alexander arrived in New York in 1774 as a 10-year-old boy. His mother had died, and a severe economic depression prompted his father to leave Scotland and seek his fortune in the American Colonies. Within months of their arrival, the American War for Independence broke out. His father joined the British Army to fight against the patriots. The son of a Loyalist, young Alexander was sent to Montreal (Quebec, Canada) for his safety. There, he entered an apprenticeship with Finlay, Gregory & Company, a fur-trading concern that eventually became the powerful North West Company (NWC). As a physically strong young man craving adventure, Alexander did well in the fur-trading business. Favorably impressed, his employers offered Alexander a share in the company. As they looked farther north and west for new sources of valuable furs, he was sent to a fort on the Athabasca River. The NWC’s ambitions to secure valuable furs played an important part in Alexander’s future explorations of uncharted territory. The company submitted to the Governor of Quebec its intention “of exploring … between the latitudes of 55, and 65, all that tract of country extending west of Hudson’s Bay to the North Pacific Ocean.” The NWC planned to fill in the empty spaces on the map while in search of furs.

A Promotion

In 1788, Alexander was promoted and sent to build Fort Chipewyan on Lake Athabasca’s south shore. He was also ordered to explore the large river flowing out of Lake Athabasca in hopes of finding a possible northwest passage to the Pacific Ocean. This would open up a much shorter route to the fur-trading markets in the Orient. Alexander undoubtedly welcomed the assignment. He ranked, “the practicability of penetrating across the continent of America [as] this favorite project of my own ambition.”

Birch-Bark Voyage

On June 3, 1789, Alexander left Fort Chipewyan on his inaugural discovery voyage. Several birchbark canoes carried his group of voyageurs and native hunters. Traveling down the river to Great Slave Lake was difficult because of dangerous rapids. Then, ice delayed them as they found the big lake still frozen over. When they found the outlet, and left the lake on a large river, progress downstream was swift. In his journal, Alexander wrote, “it is evident

PHOTO IS PUBLIC DOMAIN VIA WIKIPEDIA

these waters must empty themselves into the Northern Ocean.” He was correct. They soon reached the edges of a vast, icebound body of saltwater, the Arctic Ocean. On July 16, they turned around and raced the coming winter back upstream, reaching Fort Chipewyan on Sept. 12. The round trip was more than 3,000 miles, and was completed in only 102 days. Although Alexander had explored and mapped a large, previously unexplored area, he was frustrated by his failure to find a northwest passage. He called the big river, which was more than 1,000 miles long, the Disappointment River (now the Mackenzie River). Without a northwest passage, the exploration was of little practical use to the company. However, Alexander wasn’t throwing in the towel.

Second Attempt

Three years later, on Oct. 10, 1792, he started up the Peace River from Fort Chipewyan in a 25-foot canoe with 3,000 pounds of cargo and 10 people aboard. This time, Alexander’s cousin, Alexander MacKay, six voyageur paddlers and two Indian hunters accompanied him. They ascended the Peace River to the junction of the Smokey River where they built a small fort to overwinter. In spring 1793, they continued up the Peace River where it became more and more dangerous. Entering the Peace River Canyon, they found it so treacherous that they had to line the entire canoe. Alexander wrote in his journal, “as we proceeded, the rapidity of the river’s current increased so that in the distance of two miles we were obliged to unload four times and carry everything.” By scouting ahead, they learned that the river was impassible. They carried the cargo up the cliffs to the top, then returned to winch the big canoe up with ropes. The portage around the canyon was long and exhausting. The men complained and wanted to quit and go back, but Alexander was a great leader and encouraged them to continue. Back on the river and above the canyon, they continued to paddle

against rapids and a swift current. Along the river, they met Indians who’d never seen a white man. An old Indian told Alexander that at the headwaters of the river a portage would take them over the divide to a large river flowing west. The information was correct, but the route was long and exhausting. After they reached the divide, small streams led west to a larger river. Alexander wrote, “After all our toil and anxiety, the inexpressible satisfaction of finding ourselves on the bank of a navigable river on the West side of the great range of mountains.” That river proved to be so fast and dangerous that he named it Bad River (now the Fraser River). They lost their canoe when it capsized, and the men narrowly escaped drowning. After four days of walking downstream, they met Indians who advised them to turn around for they would certainly be killed by natives downstream.

Persistence Pays

Alexander had to backtrack upstream and take an Indian trail over to the Bella Coola River. There they found a well-traveled Indian trail that led to the friendly Bella Coola Indians. With borrowed canoes, they again started toward the ocean. They came upon curious Indian houses built up on stilts. “From these houses, I could perceive the termination of the river, and its discharge into … the sea,” wrote Alexander. He used his instruments to find his position, and before leaving, he mixed vermilion paint and wrote on a large rock the famous inscription: “Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the twentysecond of July, one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three.” The first overland journey across North America had been completed. Alexander arrived back at Fort Chipewyan on Aug. 24, 1793, after completing a journey of more than 2,300 miles in 117 days through unexplored wilderness. Once again, he brought his crew home safely, and kept peaceful relations with the Indians he’d met. With determination and perseverance, he found his northwest passage. However, the route proved too difficult for others to follow.

One Remarkable Explorer

Alexander Mackenzie was knighted by King George III in 1802, and recognized as “leader of the first expedition to cross the North American continent from Atlantic to Pacific north of Mexico.” Surveyors later found the rock painting and deeply inscribed the words to preserve them. The area is now within the Sir Alexander Mackenzie Provincial Park. MP

Sources: Dictionary of Biography, Mackenzie, Sir Alexander Canadahistory.com/Mackenzie Bella Coola Tours, Journey of Alexander Mackenzie

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