Bali & Beyond Magazine October 2009 Edition

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

BALI & BEYOND OCTOBER 2009 VOLUME 11 NO. 113

BOVINE BATTLES FEEL THE EARTH RUMBLE TO THE STAMPEDE OF RACING BUFFALOES IN THE MAKEPUNG GRAND PRIX OF WEST BALI

HARROWING

DOORS

THIS HALLOWEEN, ENTER THE BACKDOOR TO THE ‘HAUNTED’ LAWANG SEWU – A CENTURIES OLD BUILDING IN SEMARANG, CENTRAL JAVA

COMPLIMENTARY

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

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g n i d i b A BRIGHT BEADS

NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS BALI&BEYOND

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TEAMTALK

teamtalk 10.09 OCTOBER OPULENCE ‘Om Swastyastu...’ Welcome to Bali and the Indonesian archipelago, and welcome to our October 2009 edition of Bali & Beyond. The island saw unique sights as this edition was going to press. Among the most notable was when 99 paragliders flew over Bali’s southern Bukit Peninsula on September 9, 2009. In a successful effort to set a new “official” Indonesian record of 99 paragliders aloft in a single occasion, Indonesian and international pilots began leaping off the gusty cliffs at 9 in the morning. Not satisfied with breaking only one record in a day, Indonesian athlete Dedi Arifianto set a longest flight record of 9 hours and 9 minutes, surpassing his record flight set on August 8, 2008 of 8 hours and 8 minutes. And with all those headlines of flying and hovering over the Bukit it brings back memories of our editor’s first tandem flight, at times having a go at the strings, and who dreamt that one day he could get his paraglider’s pilot license. But after four years his

contributors

dream has yet become a reality. Tough luck! Then a long lost contributor rang us up again and said that she just took up tandem and wished to pursue piloting lessons, so has promised to share with us - and you - stunning aerial shots as well as her ‘soaring’ stories in a future edition. She just inspired us to get up to the Bukit and share the skies with the gulls again! One day, after the deadlines... For the time being, back on terra firma, please enjoy yet another full edition of Bali & Beyond. On the craft side let’s take a look at some beautiful beads that are seemingly unchanged by time, through Craft & Culture where history meets past and current fashion. For a bit of action we share with you the buffalo races in Jembrana, West Bali, the Balinese ‘buffalo grand prix’ known as Makepung, which first stemmed from the agricultural traditions of local farmers who developed a pastime that gradually evolved into an attractive and competitive event. And Beyond Bali, in this month’s spirit of Halloween, we ‘break into’ a historical site as Ve Handojo shares his spooky adventures, entering the backdoors of the ‘haunted’ Lawang Sewu – an over one century-old building in Semarang, Central Java, once a battle ground where thousands were killed. Or, for some peace and quiet, enjoy an elegant world-class botanical garden in the middle of Bogor, in this month’s Capital Corner.

Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. View his portfolio at www.alcibbumphotography.com

Murdani Usman is a freelance photojournalist and correspondent for various news agencies in Indonesia. View his shots at www.indobalifoto.com

Ve Handojo is a travel writer and horror film script writer. Check out his piece on the ‘haunted’ Lawang Sewu in Semarang, this time for Halloween.

Gustra uses photography as a medium to articulate and express his art. Cultural, human interest, travel and experimental photography are his subjects.

We hope you enjoy your time and adventures on the island and beyond. And while you’re at it, always keep safe. Read on and enjoy! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

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Donny Cahyadi is no stranger in our office. He continuously feeds us with fresh photos by the day. A shutter-happy guy who really enjoys what he does.

BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager Managing Editor

GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA [email protected] NYOMAN ARI GUNADI [email protected]

Editorial Assistant

NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI [email protected]

Editorial Advisors

A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS

Graphic Advisor Graphic Designer

WENIAR PRAMESTI PUTU PARTAJAYA [email protected] MADE SUWARDANA [email protected]

Advertising & MarComm. Manager

ANDI BEHANS [email protected]

F&A Supervisor

A.A. KETUT SUKERTI [email protected]

GA & Personnel Adm

I GEDE ADARA [email protected]

Distribution Graphic Design Intern

NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA MARIA PUTRI KHARISMA

Contributors FADIL AZIZ (ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY), DONNY CAHYADI, NI KOMANG ERVIANI, GUSTRA, VE HANDOJO, NGURAH PRIMARTA, MURDANI USMAN, ERIK WIJAYA Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 120 C / Lt. 2, Kuta, Bali 80361 Tel: (62-361) 764 274, 752 684 Fax: (62-361) 762 096 E-mail:[email protected] http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

Endorsed by

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

A member of

www. skal.org [email protected]

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contents 10.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... TH E SUR F... T HE CULT URE OF PARADISE AN D OVER 18,000 SURROUN DIN G ISLA N D S

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CAPITALCORNER WORLD CLASS GARDEN IN JAKARTA’S ‘BACKYARD’ Visit Bogor Botanical Gardens, a refreshing park in the town of Bogor, only 40 kilometers from the nation's capital city. 10

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CRAFT&CULTURE ABIDING BRIGHT BEADS Let’s take a look at beautiful beads unchanged by time, these ancient ornaments are still favored in the 21st century.

26 INVITE&INDULGE TRENDY ‘N FRIENDLY; FOR KIDS, TOO! The Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta now boasts its newest spa addition with a special program it has created just for the little ones!

PHOTO COURTESY HARRIS HOTEL & RESIDENCES RIVERVIEW KUTA

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PHOTO BY ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY

October 2009 Volume 11 No. 113

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contents 10.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

October 2009 Volume 11 No. 113

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

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SATIATE YOUR APPETITE FOR LUXURY

COVER

After admiring pieces in its elegant gallery, enter Jemme’s own chic café for some delectable cuisine.

Bright Blue Beads Photo courtesy TPG Images

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36 PONDERINGPOINT SUN, SAND, SURF... ‘N BE PREPARED! Those tall towering structures with “BMG” on them that loom over you as you lay on the sand... Just what are they?

14 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island.

PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

38 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS BOVINE BATTLES OF BALI’S WEST Buffaloes in Jembrana, West Bali are not only known for their agricultural significance in plowing rice fields but also for sprinting side-by-side in racing competitions.

PHOTO BY NI KOMANG ERVIANI

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BEYONDBALI BREAKING INTO LAWANG SEWU

This Halloween, enter the backdoors of Lawang Sewu in Semarang, once a battle ground where thousands were killed.

54 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali. 58 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events. 64 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.

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NEW&NEWS

GET DOWN

TO THE AROMA Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel opens its newly renovated Sanur Harum Restaurant, following a two-month facelift. Sanur Harum now not only boasts a new look but has also relocated to the ground floor creating easier access to the hotel’s main features. The modern, classy and chic new look fits nicely with the reputation of being one of the most popular Chinese Restaurants in the Sanur area. The dining outlet offers the finest Chinese cuisine, including Peking Duck and Hot and Sour Seafood Soup “Sichuan Style”, and the all time favourite of “All you can eat Dim Sum Luncheon”. Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel & Suites, Jalan Hang Tuah 46 Sanur, (0361) 281-781; www.sanurparadise.com

FINE DINING: “BENVENUTO!” Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Bali welcomes its new Italian Chef Andrea Ferrero to its Italian restaurant, IL Ristorante. With over 12 years of culinary experience, Chef Ferrero joined The Bulgari Resort in Bali after working as Executive Sous Chef at Vivaldi, the Italian fine dining restaurant within the Sheraton Hotel Dubai. Chef Ferrero has received several awards and accolades with medals from the United Kingdom’s Hotel Olympia and Salon Culinaires in Alassio City, Liguria. Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Bali, Jalan Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu, (0361) 847-1000; www.bulgarihotels.com

OCTOBER OPTIONS The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, presents its promotions for the month of October 2009. Experience Lavish Lobsters every Monday night at Ocean Terrace Beach Front Dining from 7pm onwards. Chef de Cuisine Nyoman Wijana creates 4 different menu options to savour lavish lobster as you dine and enjoy the breeze. Round off the experience by selecting from the finest wine collection from around the world available at the restaurant; priced at Rp. 600,000++ per person. Tastes of Italy “Bellissomo” is every Wednesday night at Café Lagoon from 7pm onwards, featuring a fine spread of Italian delicacies including chilled sweet rock melon with Parma ham, freshly baked gourmet pizzas, homemade pastas, and mouth-watering desserts; priced at Rp. 350,000 net per person. Also Mayang Sari Restaurant features An Exotic Night in Bali every Saturday night, where Chef de Cuisine Ida Bagus Oka creates 3 different Rijstaffel options. The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-327; www.luxurycollection.com/bali Balinese surfer Randy Dinar has renewed his contract with Billabong, continuing the dynamic collaboration. 20 year-old Randy has been surfing for Billabong for over 5 years now and has been on surf trips all over Indonesia. Wayan “Kopling” Wirtama, Billabong’s SE Asia Team & Events Coordinator stated, “We will help him to score those photo and video shoots and I’m sure he’s going to produce a lot of great stuff.” www.billabong.com 14

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NEW&NEWS

SAVOR SEAFOOD InterContinental Bali Resort announces the launch of ‘A Taste of Bali’, an interactive cooking class focused on local seafood. The session starts with an early morning visit to the nearby Jimbaran traditional fish market to pick the freshest catch of the day. Back at the resort the cooking gets underway at midday with an informal demonstration on how to prepare chosen items. All efforts in the kitchen culminate in a delicious lunch that is served at Bella Singaraja restaurant. ‘A Taste of Bali’ is priced at US$ 50++ per person and includes transportation, tuition and cooking ingredients. Classes are held every Friday and advance reservations through the Resort Concierge are highly recommended. InterContinental Bali Resort, Jalan Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, (0361) 701-888

KEEP ON WATCH! Bulgari introduces a new limited edition watch for the Bulgari Hotels and Resorts, Bali. Conceived to be a “must-have”, the Bulgari Diagono Aluminium limited edition “Bali” watch combines the core values of unique Italian design with top Swiss watch-making expertise. The extremely elaborate 44 mm case of this chronograph is enhanced by the bold combination of carbon fiber. To match the design requirements and the highest quality standards, the timepiece features an internal steel structure that has been coated with a carbon fiber layer. The watch is available in two versions –automatic movement and date with and without chronograph. The limited edition numbers are engraved on the back case and ‘BALI’ on the dial. This timepiece will be retailing exclusively at the Bulgari Hotels and Resorts, Bali. 350 nonchronograph pieces and 150 pieces with chronograph are available. Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Bali, Jalan Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu, (0361) 847-1000; www.bulgarihotels.com

FRESH ‘N LIVE

Strolling along Kuta Sidewalk, part of the Ramayana Hotel Complex, you will discover the magnificent “Seafood House” that features the first imported live seafood in Bali. Ocean delights with a Cantonese style menu serve the tastiest live seafood. Seafood House features a VIP room with karaoke, function room, seating capacity of 232, and live seafood aquariums on display for you to select your favorite dishes. Also featured are the Beijing duck and a chicken barbeques. Seafood House, Complex Kuta Sidewalk, Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta, (0361) 763-900 www.rama-restaurants-bali.com

THREE IN ONE October is a monumental time for The Haven, the newest hotel situated by the main street of Seminyak. The Haven is close to the boutique shopping arcades, array of restaurants, the hippest night spots and the famous beaches which are all within easy walking distance. The concept is “three in one” - one location with three choices of accommodation: suites, hotel, and villas. The suites and villas have seen its launch recently. The hotel also serves guests healthy and delicious cuisine at its Sabeen Restaurant as well as relaxation at its Atma Spa. The Haven, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500, Kuta (0361) 738-001; www.thehavenbali.com 16

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NEW&NEWS

ON THE PENINSULA

SMOOTH ‘N SOOTH... Spa at Bali Hyatt introduces its new treatment, the Cashmere & Silk treatment. Discover the beauty of silky-soft and relaxed skin with the pure Cashmere and Silk treatment from Biodroga. Enjoy a relaxing wave and a gently stimulating dry peel with silk gloves, followed by a relaxing head and ear massage, as well as a calming foot massage. Your skin is then powdered with precious silk powder for a soft, shimmering finish. This 90-minute treatment is at USD 85 per person, subject to 21% tax and service charge. Reservations recommended. Spa at Bali Hyatt, (0361) 281-234 extension 8200 www.hyattpure.com

The Royal Santrian is introduced as a luxury boutique villa on the picturesque sands of Bali’s Tanjung Benoa. It is set on over 2.5 hecatres of tropical gardens and offers 22 villas and an elegant ocean front restaurant. Special introductory rates are available for a stay through November 15; Royal Villa at US$ 700++ and Deluxe Villa at US$ 465++, rates inclusive of accommodation in luxury villa with private pool and day bed, welcome drink and face towel upon arrival, daily breakfast and daily afternoon tea served in the restaurant or in the privacy of the villa, shuttle services and 24-hour butler service. The Royal Santrian, Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa, (0361) 778-181 www.theroyalsantrian.com

REJUVENATION Conrad Bali’s award-winning Jiwa Spa has been rejuvenated with the addition of stunning new garden spa pavilions, an expanded holistic wellness programme and a new level of skincare pampering using marine-inspired Thalgo beauty products. The five new spa garden pavilions feature indoor and outdoor treatment areas surrounded by a tropical water garden. They will also use the spa’s new treatment menu, developed in collaboration with Thalgo, the premier French skincare line. The Spa menu offers highly advanced therapies based on the algae and active marine-based Thalgo skin and body products, as well as natural treatments based on ancient Indonesian traditions. Conrad Bali, (0361) 778-788; www.conradbali.com

CONCISE CONCIERGE The Bali Concierge now offers a more concise selection of luxury hospitality services to anticipate the needs of seasoned travelers visiting the island. This complete range of services now involves sourcing the very best in luxury accommodation from international star-rated hotels to private villas in inspiring locations. The Bali Concierge also takes care of all transportation needs for the convenience of travelers during their time in Bali. A private limousine transfer and helicopter charter is a privileged opportunity to explore the island in true style. Customized shopping tours are also a specialty where a consultant versed in the art of luxury shopping is on hand to escort clients. The Bali Concierge Jl. Raya Kuta 88r, (0361) 766-880; www.thebaliconcierge.com 18

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CRAFT&CULTURE

g n i d i b A BRIGHT

BEADS

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L

et’s take a look at some

threads of beads that came from an

beautiful beads that are

archeological excavation at some

seemingly unchanged

historical sites in Bali. There they were

by time. These ancient

complemented by descriptions such as

ornaments are still

that the advent of the architectural age in

favored today.

Bali occurred between 600 and 800 AD.

Among my childhood memories

At the time techniques in forging metal

that still linger in my mind are beads.

and casting those into various items had

I remember so many of my school

been found. Besides producing household

teachers crafted beads as a side job.

utensils, ceremonial items, and sharp

Back then I was astonished at how

weaponry, the metal “industry” back

they used their spare time apart from

then also produced decorative jewelry

teaching in the class, doing productive

and ornamental items such as bracelets,

things while trading jokes with other staff

necklaces, and earrings. One of the

and not forgetting about their core duty,

products that formed the larger part of the

teaching.

items included ornate beads.

Years after, then I understood that it

A friend who once majored in

was not only practiced by my teachers

archeology said that the local name for

but also by many housewives for side

beads, manik-manik, has true origins in the

income. Beads are unique and pretty

Indonesian archipelago. The Balinese have

little things that are favored by women.

known beads as small beautiful pieces for

Requests for beads as jewelry or textile

adorning one’s self. The Aceh lexicon also

ornaments are always high.

states that manik-manik are golden seeds

While paying a visit to the Bali Museum in Denpasar, I saw several

the size of coriander that can be threaded for necklaces. Clearly odds and ends of

TPG IMAGES

PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN

Since ancient times, women indeed cannot be parted from their urge to adorn. They use many ways to reach that goal and maintain it, and beads are one among the many mediums.

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PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN

When technology advanced and suited to the natural conditions of each locale, humans started to produce beads from various materials such as bone, teeth, stones, and other varieties.

manik-manik are not only found in Bali but

various shapes and sizes. Starting from

over nearly all the islands in Indonesia.

those purely used for body decorations

Since ancient times, women indeed cannot be parted from their urge to adorn. They use many ways to reach that goal

positive prospects. La Paste, an art place on Jalan Raya Seminyak, offers a mixture

in Algeria and Israel revealed beads aged

of beaded jewelry from various materials,

100,000 years old. It is presumed the

from locally crafted shells to stones

beads were used as jewelry.

specially imported from China. The prices

When technology advanced and suited

also vary. As the prices are negotiable,

the natural conditions of each locale,

each customer can get a different price

humans started to produce beads from

depending on their bargaining skills.

various materials such as bone, teeth,

One of the staff at La Paste explained

stones, and other materials. During the

that the demands for bead crafts are still

age of metal, they also made use of gold,

high. The owner already has four art shops

silver, and bronze. As times advanced,

with similar products on offer at each

more and more alternatives have emerged

location. Beads promise a good business

such as synthetic materials.

for the domestic as well as international

stalls offer beads and colorful laces of OCTOBER 2009

This business grew rapidly due to its

the many mediums. Archeological findings

Seminyak, Ubud, and Sanur. The small

BALI&BEYOND

to those used to adorn clothing.

and maintain it, and beads are one among

Just take a stroll around Kuta then to

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such as bracelets and necklaces, then on

markets. Models and designs on offer are quite varied as well. Several art shop owners

mentioned that bead designs are chosen by the crafters. However, designs only do not make a shop different from the others. Many shops that line up side by side are generally in tight competition on pricing and production capacity. One unique design quickly rises to mass production in Kuta. The bead crafters do not protect their work under legitimate property rights. Consumers thus easily ask for their different models to be designed, then they also request for other crafters to work on that model at a lower production price. This has not only been the case experienced by bead crafters from Madura, but also by local crafters. Limited information on property rights has caused them to be reluctant to protect their own creativity. “Producing rights on design and patents indeed require a lot of time at no little cost. If I patent my sandal design for instance (pointing at a sandal priced less than 50,000 rupiah), how much would I get from there?” said Nino, owner of Nino art shop on Jalan Double Six when I asked why he didn’t patent his designs. The necklace crafter at La Paste didn’t say much about the topic. They usually would be mad and disappointed but felt

PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN

need to spend? How much profit would I

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PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN

Beads haven’t gone through so many changes in recent times. The materials also range from colorful stones, shells, bones, metal and wood.

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OCTOBER 2009

could do nothing whatsoever. A different atmosphere can be felt at B

This craft is also pretty much manual labor. Each jewelry item requires a special

Design, an art shop on Jalan Double Six.

touch and each craftsman and user has

This Australian-owned shop implements a

specific senses. They choose beads that

“photography forbidden” rule in the shop.

can represent their taste and personality.

Here we can also see that their designs

I didn’t carry out a major survey on

on offer are quite unique and differ from

bead crafting, but at a glance I can see

other shops. It is no wonder that foreigners

that Westerners hire several staff in their

understand design patents more than the

stores to craft beads, Madurese bring

locals do. Their views on intellectual property

along their kith and kin to work, and the

are also more individualistic than communal.

Balinese distribute the labor to housewives

Beads have not gone through many

or their daughters in their neighborhood.

changes in recent times. From the

And that must have been why as a child

beginning to this day, we still can perceive

who was raised in Bali, this all felt so

its presence as an adornment item. The

familiar. ■

materials also range from colorful stones,

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati,

shells, bones, metal and wood.

photos by Donny Cahyadi

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INVITE&INDULGE

T

he Harris Hotel &

services. The Tauzia managed hotel and

a Harris Boutique, onsite medical services

Residences Riverview

residence further pushes its ‘Simple,

with a doctor on call, a Dino Kids Club and

Kuta broke new ground by

Unique and Friendly’ concept, since its

kid’s pool.

offering a simple unique

Grand Opening in July this year.

and friendly stay. It features 4 swimming pools, Harris

Guestroom facilities include air

The Harris Hotel & Residences

conditioning, in-room safes, tea/coffee

Riverview Kuta is located in a strategic

making facilities, LCD TVs, satellite TV,

Cafe for all day dining, Harrissimo, a casual

area of Kuta, only 15 minutes from the

mini bar, separate bathroom with shower,

dining restaurant featuring modern Italian

airport, 10 minutes from the famous Kuta

IDD telephone and laundry services.

cuisine, a Dino Kid’s Club, spa-reflexology

beach, and 5 minutes from the nearby

service, and distinctive meeting and event

Legian shopping district.

Dining and entertainment include a Harris Café as a signature restaurant

space for business with free Wi-Fi. And

The hotel features 133 appointed

now it further introduces its newest spa

guestrooms including one-bedroom and

fresh Juice Bar. Harrissimo offers Italian

addition with a special program it has

two- bedrooms suites and 52 residences,

cuisine and live wooden baked pizzas

created just for the little ones!

complete with an onsite parking area, 24-

with a capacity of up to 55 seats. It also

hour reception service, a business corner,

features the H Spa and its ‘Happy Feet’

The Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta continues to invite energetic

serving Asian and Western delights and a

6 meeting rooms, elevator/lifts, free Wi-Fi,

couples to its expanded facilities and

Y L D N E I R F N FUNKY ‘ The Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta continues to invite energetic couples and families to its range of facilities and services.

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BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

reflexology. The spa will have treatments

leisure and business hotels. The Harris

ranging from Balinese massage, ‘Shiat

Hotels concept captures a modern,

Shuuh’ massage and poultice facial

young and trendy style. As Harris Hotel

Hotel and Residences Riverview Kuta now

treatments, and also a 20-finger massage

& Residences Riverview Kuta’s General

warmly welcomes families as it has created

highlight with two therapists, warm herbal

Manager once expressed during its

a special program just for kids. The Kids

ball massages, color baths, a kid’s spa,

preliminary media gatherings, the hotel

Spa program at H-Spa offers everything

and they’re also issuing spa gift certificates

will mostly comprise domestic and Asian

the little traveler needs for a journey to their

for guests who want to treat their friends.

markets.

first spa experience.

The fresh new accommodation and

The hotel saw its soft opening on

had some days at 90% occupancy. And with onward high prospects, Harris

The distinctive service of simple-unique-

leisure on the block in Kuta is a part of

April 13, and from that day on they have

friendly associated with the Harris Hotels

Tauzia Hotel Management, which already

received very good feedback from the

and Resorts experience is embodied in

has a few Harris Hotels onboard in

people who came to stay. For a month

The Kid’s Spa at H’Spa, now open at

Indonesia. Tauzia developed the Harris

since the soft opening, they had already

concept as a fun and original concept in

! O O T , S D I FOR THE K The distinctive service of ‘simple-unique-friendly’ associated with the Harris Hotels and Resorts experience is embodied in The Kid’s Spa at H’Spa, now open at Harris Hotel and Residences Riverview Kuta. BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

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Check out Harris Cafe for all day dining and Harrissimo for a casual dining restaurant featuring modern Italian cuisine.

Dining and entertainment include a Harris Café as a signature restaurant serving Asian and Western delights and a fresh Juice Bar. Harrissimo offers Italian cuisine and live wooden baked pizzas with a capacity of up to 55 seats.

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Tauzia developed the Harris concept as a fun and original concept in leisure and business hotels, capturing a modern, young and trendy style.

Harris Hotel and Residences Riverview

tiara, then assists with selecting a locker;

Kuta Bali. Featuring a select arrangement

preparing and expertly presenting a

with natural products by H’Spa, The Kids

refreshing choice from the Kids Spa Menu;

Spa at H’Spa envelops its little guests in

and guiding the little spa-goer through

services geared toward wellness and

the Cute Princess or Prince Experiences.

inner health.

This water ritual involves a choice of Color

Ensuring that each guest’s experience

Foot Bath, a gentle body brushing to

is personally tailored down to the smallest

stimulate the blood circulation, a gentle

detail is the Kids Spa. A signature of

massage using Lavender massage

H’Spa, the Kids Spa attends to every

oil which is suitable for kids, and a

little traveler needs along the journey,

Revitalizing Body Mask that incorporates

first assisting their little guests who book

unique aromatherapy through the use of

a signature service with their selection

Strawberry or Chocolate for a truly unique

of a kiddies robe, surprising them with

experience. Oils and masks are hand-

the bubble balloon, prince or princess

selected from the Essentials Treatment Bar

The hotel features 133 appointed guestrooms including one-bedroom and two- bedrooms suites and 52 residences, a business corner, 6 meeting rooms, and a Harris Boutique.

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

29

The kids spa for little travelers!

to complete and fully enhance the ritual. The Kids Spa at H’Spa accepts children

Hotel Kelapa Gading Jakarta, Harris Hotel and Residences Solo, in 2010, Harris Hotel

from 7 – 10 years old accompanied by

Sentul, Harris Hotel Tangerang, Harris

their parents, or have the parents sign for

Hotel Yogyakarta, Harris Hotel Denpasar in

any treatment not accompanied by them.

2011, and Harris Hotel Batam Centre

The Harris Hotels & Resorts brand is

in 2012. ■

currently represented by five properties in Indonesia and launched by Tauzia Hotel Management in December 2003. With the “Simple-Unique-Friendly” concept, Harris Hotels & Resorts provide a concept,

30

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

■ Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta; Jl. Raya Kuta 62A, (0361) 761-007 www.harris-riverview-bali.com ■ Tauzia Hotel Management, Wisma Adhi

brand, and lifestyle perfectly fitted to the

Graha, 17th Floor

new Asian mid-scale trend. Additional

Jl. Jend Gatot Subroto Kav 56

hotel projects under development; Harris

Jakarta; www.tauzia.com

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

31

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

Satiate

YOUR APPETITE FOR

Luxury

Enhancing its lavish appeal as Bali’s premier luxury jeweler, Café Jemme further entices its boutique patrons to a world of elegance, romance and lavishness through fulsome cabinets of diamonds and gems – and fine dining with the freshest organic ingredients and decadent interiors.

J

emme broke ground mid-

Here, after getting lost gazing at each of

2007 with its striking boutique

the heavenly items in the boutique, you

smack-dab on a slightly

can allow yourself to unwind and take in

curving wayside and set aside

the fresh air and open view of the calming

a rice field down on Petitenget

rice field, which somehow is reassuring

road, where Jemme’s

in that you know you are still in Bali and

jewellery crafter and proprietor Aziz and

haven’t taken off to a distant world...

his team have crafted the eclectic pieces

Here you can sip your heart away with a

of eardrops, chains, chokers, necklaces,

refreshing selection of bracing beverages,

rings, pendants and signed items – to

and recollect your most favorite piece

name a few – blending them together

of jewellery over light menu selections

with the finest exclusive diamonds and

prepared with the freshest organic

unusual and handpicked stones in its vast

ingredients, harvested from Jemme’s

collection.

own organic farmland in Negara, in Bali’s

Adjoining the main boutique space is the cozy seating area that just happens to

32

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

western highlands. The café saw its grand opening on an

border with Café Jemme next door, which

auspicious full moon in August, where fine

also leads to an idyllic terrace with a view.

dinners become ever more impressive

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

33

with subtle candlelight and luminous

chocolate and cream. This is absolutely

chandeliers that enhance the glimmer of

gorgeous!

the precious stones and jewels - multi-color

Jemme has catered to a wide range of

jeweled necklaces fit for a queen, diamond,

international and national customers alike

sapphire, ruby and emerald cocktail rings,

and takes care of them well. Treating its

Jemme’s ‘2-Tone’ collections in 18ct

guests to its café the same as it would to

white gold, and Deco inspired pieces in

its boutique patrons, assures satisfaction

18 ct white gold – all behind their glass displays. The combination of a delectable

Tryout Jemme’s specialty starters such as this, which includes a wide mixture of delights.

for both individual and group guests. Also catering to the latter particularly,

selection on the menu and the sparkles

Jemme Gallery and Café recently invited

and luminous petites makes way for an

members of the Bali International Women’s

exceptional appetite for luxury. The café has a vast beverage list

Association to come and enjoy champagne and smoked marlin. This is served together

cocktails and canapés while viewing

ranging from light drinks, coffees and teas

with a mixed salad of Nam Jim salad

beautiful items. For ladies who lust for

to hot chocolate and iced drinks. For a

dressing with potato, sweet corn and

luxury, what could have been better than

refreshing cool down during a hot day,

avocado, mango and tamarind relish with

enjoying champagne and shopping for

drop by for Jemme’s fresh mixes served

lemon mayonnaise. For mouthwatering

sophisticated ornaments and their latest

on crushed ice with soda water, including

desserts, especially for those romantic

collection of diamonds, 18ct white gold,

Blueberry Swoon, various smoothies,

candlelight dinners for two, opt for among

and gem-set jewels.

fresh and mixed fruit juices and shakes.

the others on the menu the “Tasting for

On the ‘deeper’ beverage side, try out the

Two”, an “indulging combination of Café

spot with a scrumptious lunch and dinner

Jemme Martinis, and the one that suits the

Jemme’s most popular desserts for those

menu selection, whether it be an indoor

characteristic lavender hues of Jemme’s

who cannot quite make up their mind”.

setting within a mini gallery full of assorted

interior: the Lychee & Lavender Martini. All

This comprises chocolate pudding, apple-

gleaming precious gems to admire, or an

of its martini cocktails may be ordered with

macadamia spring rolls, banana in custard,

alfresco garden scene with a view to an

Grey Goose premium vodka. Also on the

apple and lychee crumble, heart-shaped

flanking rice field, drop by at the turn in

drink list are a selection of premium spirits,

cookies and two generous scoops of ice

Petitenget where Café Jemme is distinctively

liqueurs, wines and champagnes.

cream. Or go for the dark and tempting

sited. The café is open Monday to Saturday

After ‘8’ Martini, a blend of vodka, Crème

from 11 am until late. ■

Jemme specialty starters include a mixed appetizer comprised of crispy

de Cacao, chocolate milk mint and cream.

deep-fried prawns and sea salt calamari,

A white version, the Raspberry Milky Bar

Jamaican chicken satay, fish prawn cake

Martini blends vodka with raspberry, white

34

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

When in search of an idyllic all day dining

■ Café Jemme, Jl. Raya Petitenget No.28, Kerobokan, (0361) 732-392

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

35

PONDERINGPOINT

SUN SURF...

‘N BE PREPARED! Those tall towering structures with “BMG” on them that loom over you as you lay on the sand... just what are they?

N

o, they are definitely not some sort of newly installed, locally built, cellular telecommunications services or relay

towers... they are part of the Tsunami Early Warning System (TEWS) - developed by the Indonesian Meteorology and Geophysics Agency (BMG). With Bali’s southern coasts being the most densely populated and busiest coastal tourist locations, and with the aftermath of the 2004 Indian Ocean undersea mega thrust earthquake fresh in mind - not to mention our string of islands bedded smack-dab over the so called Pacific ‘Ring of Fire’, constant alert and anticipation is certainly a high priority. To date the towers’ sirens are supposed to be triggered by BMG in Jakarta. In

PHOTO BY NI LUH DIANN PURNIAWATI

the near future the responsibility for

36

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

the triggering will be transferred to the local government. There is no automatic triggering. So far tsunami warnings are generated by BMG Jakarta and disseminated to the local decision makers, the media, etc. The warnings from BMG and the media will not contain evacuation orders. This is

the sole responsibility of the local decision

Bali Hotels Association (BHA) linked

makers and it is up to them to notify the

itself directly to BMG in Jakarta and

community at risk.

generates its own tsunami warning sms

The sirens are tested on the 26th of

so as to be informed and ready as reliably

every month for 1 minute. However that

as possible. In case of a tsunami alarm

does not mean that the sirens will be

all member hotels receive a BHA tsunami

started, usually it is just a low warning tone

warning sms. BHA hotels are amongst the

or a voice announcement.

best prepared in Indonesia.

The sirens have a reach of several

That a hotel is prepared for a tsunami

However, in any emergency situation, it is up to every single person to be aware

kilometers. Once they are triggered people

and offering shelter is visible if hotels have

and knowledgeable of the points and

should as fast as possible move as far

installed the red tsunami evacuation route

evacuation procedures should such a

as possible away from the beach and

arrows. Here are some of the designs,

disaster occur.

as high up as possible. From the initial

showing you what they should look like.

tsunami triggering earthquake to the arrival

Recently on September 10 a

The Indonesian Ministry of Culture and Tourism (MenBudPar) cooperating

of the wave you have only approximately

Memorandum of

closely with the Bali Hotels

30 minutes time, so you need to be fast.

Understanding

Association (BHA), have also

If horizontal evacuation is not an option

(MoU) signing

developed a ‘Tsunami Ready

one should try to get into the third floor

ceremony at the

Toolkit’ which is geared to assist

of buildings with strong, steel enforced

Ramada Benoa Hotel

hotels to prepare for tsunamis.

concrete columns.

marked the successful preparation

The initiative is supported by the German

of the sub-district of Tanjung Benoa

Centrum für Migration und Entwicklung

fast and vast withdrawal of the waterline.

in becoming ‘tsunami ready’. An

(CIM). The toolkit consists of a collection

However if that happens a tsunami is

initiative of GTZ-GITEWS and Bali

of fact sheets and background information

already very imminent and there is not

Hotels Association (BHA) assisted by

papers on subjects like Information Sources,

much time left. As a rule of thumb: if you

the Indonesian Red Cross empowered

Department Closedown Procedures, Beach

feel a strong earthquake by the sea, get to

the village of Tanjung Benoa to

Evacuation, Planning of Evacuation Routes,

higher ground, you never know.

cooperate with the local

An important natural warning sign is the

A tsunami is usually not just one wave,

hotel industry to jointly

Location of Evacuation Spots, Best Practice Examples, Natural Warning

it is a series of waves. The 2nd and 3rd

prepare for a tsunami. Until recently

can be taller than the first one. Once at a

the village of Tanjung Benoa lacked

sheltered location one should wait for an

suitable evacuation space for the

downloaded as a pdf file from: http://www.

“all clear” before returning to lower areas.

community. The people had nowhere to

my-indonesia.info/filedata/4114_888-

If one can’t get an official “all clear” one

go as almost all village buildings with the

CompleteTsunamiReady.pdf ■

should stay away from the beach for at

exception of local hotels are not suitable to

(Editor’s note: thanks to Alexander

least 1 hour!

be utilized as tsunami shelters.

Kesper, Advisor to the Indonesian Ministry

That was changed when the village and the local hotel industry agreed on

Signs, etc. A version of the toolkit can be

of Culture and Tourism (BUDPAR) in providing the valuable information).

a joint evacuation space, an evacuation trigger, evacuation procedures and codes

■ Ministry of Culture and Tourism

of conduct. From now on nine Tanjung

Jl. Medan Merdeka Barat No. 17, 22nd

Benoa hotels will open their doors to

Floor Jakarta, (021) 383-86-19

the community at risk in case one of the

www.my-indonesia.info

towers sounds their alarm. The initiative is a good example of

■ Bali Hotels Association (BHA)

cooperation in disaster risk reduction for

Secretariat PHRI Office, Bali Tourism

the public and private sector and will serve

Board Building, Jl. Raya Puputan 41,

as a template for future ‘tsunami ready’

Renon, Denpasar, (0361) 227-600

cooperation in Indonesia.

www.balihotelsassociation.com BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

37

Bovine Battles of Bali’s West 38

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

PHOTOS BY NGURAH PRIMARTHA

ACTION&ATTRACTION

PHOTO BY NI KOMANG ERVIANI

On a determined day, the buffalo owners start to ‘makeup and dress’ their ‘athletes’.

Makepung, first stemmed from the agricultural traditions of the local farmers, who sought after a pastime that gradually evolved into an attractive and competitive event.

B

uffaloes in Jembrana,

the second ‘chariot’ is within less than 10

West Bali are not

meters, then it comes out as winner. The

only known for their

tracks are usually completed within eight to

agricultural significance

ten minutes each heat.

in plowing rice fields but

At first the competitions were sparked

also at sprinting side-by-

from the plowing groups of the traditional

side in racing competitions. This Balinese

Balinese subak irrigational organizations

‘buffalo grand prix’ is best known as

in the village of Dangin Tukad, district

Makepung, which first stemmed from the

of Mendoyo in the Jembrana regency.

agricultural traditions of the local farmers

As tractors weren’t introduced yet, the

who sought after a pastime, then gradually

farmers were used to plowing the lands by

evolved into an attractive and competitive

raw buffalo power. The labor was carried

event.

out simultaneously over all the fields. And

Makepung, freely translated from its

when all the plowing was done, the idle

Balinese means ‘act of chasing’. And

buffalo power met with the creative minds

in accordance to this designation, two

of the farmers – as well as the competitive

buffaloes are fixed to a small cart while a

spirit among the herdsmen to show “who

jockey rides with baton in hand; and two

has the fittest pair of horned beasts”

of these valiant ‘charioteers’ race with their

– thus the barren parts of the fields turned

muscular horned chargers towards the finish

into proving fields, and so began the

line. Yet to become the champion a general

races. The events in the village grew into

condition applies, where the remaining

spectacles. The buffaloes charge at full

distance between the first ‘chariot’ and the

gallop, eyes glittering, sharp hoofs hurling

next must be a minimum of 10 meters. The

divots of racetrack dirt. An event followed

jockeys put in much effort so that both of

suit by teams of other subak groups in the

their buffaloes are steered in synchrony

neighboring vicinities.

and make it to the finish line head on. If

Makepung became a regular attraction BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

39

PHOTOS BY GUSTRA

in the muddy fields. Consequently

annual agenda, especially in preparation

imaginable is the flying mud in every

for the further evolved and sanctioned

race, where all race committee members,

‘Regent’s Cup’ or Piala Bupati held every

the village of Tuwed, Delod Berawah,

jockeys, and audience near the track are

August and the ‘Governor’s Cup’ or Piala

Kaliakah, Mertasari, Pengundelan,

splattered in the amusing havoc.

Gubernur every November.

and Awed. Circuits average about 1.5

The events then further developed.

Makepung aficionados and race

of the Governor’s Cup in November. There currently exist 6 circuits, namely

kilometers long. Only two pairs of buffaloes

Several rules were made with changes.

participants in Jembrana are divided into

Buffaloes no longer draw wooden plows

two groups, namely Ijo Gading Timur

but the jockeys’ rides what now more

(east) and Barat (west), like the names

participant will come and bring along their

resembles wheeled chariots. And race

of the river that runs through the town

best buffaloes. The beasts are raised and

tracks were no longer in rice fields but

of the Jembrana regency’s capital of

treated well as if they were athletes.

on dirt roads. And with the absence of

Negara. Both of these groups will face off

Kadek Mara, Makepung coordinator

mud, buffaloes and jockeys dressed up.

in the official race every two weeks. In the

of the regency of Jembrana, confesses

Buffaloes not only were adorned with bells

month of June every year the makepung

that even he provides his buffaloes with

around their necks but also horns ornate

organization holds a meeting to decide

the best selection of grass and feed. “If

with colorful headdresses. These races

when and where the race circuits would

given the wrong diet, my buffaloes can fall

are held not only during the irrigational

be held that year. In the month of July

ill. It came in first place the last time,” he

seasons but twice every two months in an

biweekly races will be held up until the end

said boasting pride of his pair which he

40

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

race and each lap takes about 10 minutes. A day before the races, each

There currently exist 6 circuits, namely the village of Tuwed, Delod Berawah, Kaliakah, Mertasari, Pengundelan, and Awed.

Now the makepung buffaloes no longer tend the rice fields. They are sought after and raised strictly for competition.

gave the title name of Prabu Angin Ribut – loosely ‘Lords of Hurricane’. In obtaining the buffaloes he paid around 50 million rupiah each. It is easily imaginable, of what sort of people would and could become race-buffalo owners - usually those of wealth and nobility. Kadek Mara for instance, besides being the village chief, also runs a furniture manufacturing business and admits to owning several other trades. No wonder he has up to four ‘chargers’ in his ‘garage’. Farmers usually only tend to their buffaloes. Now the makepung buffaloes no longer tend the rice fields. They are sought after and raised strictly for competition. On a determined day, the buffalo owners start to ‘makeup and dress’ their BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

41

PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN TPG IMAGES

TPG IMAGES

Makepung can become a unique tourism attraction. Besides “chasing” bovine beasts, we can also discover more of the less explored western Bali

‘athletes’. And typically Balinese, they

Sail Indonesia tie-in in 2007. Meanwhile,

never forget to carry out small rituals of

Makepung is held nearly every month in

hotels in the town of Negara. From Negara

offerings and blessings for safety and…

different locations.

you only need an hour and a half to reach

victory. The offerings are usually placed

The Jembrana Regency Government

Accommodations are available in the 14

the village locations. One that can be opted

at the start and finish line, and around the

Tourism Office explained that the

for is Jimbarwana, run by the local regency

accident prone areas of the race track.

Makepung events will be held at least two

government, is fully furnished and facilitated.

They pray to the guardian spirits of the

more times before the end of this year,

area for the safety of all the participants.

dates being October 11 for practice runs at

tourism attraction. Besides “chasing”

the Delod Berawah village and November

bovine beasts, you can also discover more

attraction involving animals on the island.

1 for the Governor’s Cup in the village of

of the less explored western Bali that is

Before, the regency of Buleleng, North Bali

Tuwed in the district of Melaya.

by no means less unique than the other

Makepung lately has become the only

was famous for its similar Sapi Gerubugan.

To reach both of the villages, you need

Makepung can become a unique

known areas of the island. ■

But lately this event has seen scarcity, and

to travel about 120 km from Kuta or around

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati

the last recorded event was during the

3 hours.

Photos by Murdani Uman

42

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

43

BEYONDBALI

BREAKING INTO

Lawang Sewu

L

awang Sewu is located just

start flooding the complex during the next

awe of how strong the structure that

around the corner of the

two hours. A few of them had started

Dutch architects Professor Jacob F.

hotel where I was staying

cooking, though. One or two of them took

Klinkhamer and BJ Queendag had set

during my short visit to

a glance at me, and quickly judged that

for this masterpiece of theirs. For over

Semarang in Central Java.

I wasn’t a threat. That gave me enough

six decades, the Indonesian Railways

Like other horror junkies

confidence to step inside the damp lawn.

Corporation has enjoyed the status of

I have heard about how haunted the

Just like the building, the lawn was

owner, but maintenance remains low. Now

building is, and so put it into my afternoon

not perfectly manicured nor maintained.

they are in the process of refunctioning it

schedule. However, I woke up too early,

Fatal ageing results in balding. The sole

as a train museum and an office block, and

then had too much breakfast, so I took a

source of nutrition for the grass came

starting to do some renovations.

walk around the hotel.

from the dew, and surely that was not

It was not yet seven in the morning.

Renovation is clearly different from

enough to restore its youth. The surface

conservation, especially when the budget

There were signs of life around the back

of the orange-and-beige colored building

for the first phase is no more than Rp 50

door of this enchanting building that was

was mostly cracked and fading. It really

Million. What will USD 4,500 do to a huge

built in 1903 and completed in 1907.

endorsed the infamous image of Lawang

three-storey building of over two hectares?

Street vendors were still resting on the

Sewu of being old, and – most importantly

Walls will simply be cemented, and that

broken benches and their small food stalls

– scary.

means shutting the pores and choking the

had not yet welcomed visitors, who would 44

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

I took a walk around the lawn, in

inner parts of the structure that actually

PHOTO BY ERIK WIJAYA

Ve Handojo entered a back door of the haunted Lawang Sewu – a centuries old building in Semarang that was once a battle ground where thousands were killed. The horror writer was thrilled.

Deserted scenes such as this hallway, and gothic features and windows of colored mozaic glass, add to the eerie nuance of the notorious building.

need some air. Furthermore, the cheap emulsion paint will never be a substitute for the authentic limestone coloring. And let’s not talk about how they are going to punish the building with careless nailing and hammering. The upcoming disturbance seemed to put the soul of Lawang Sewu into a state of unrest. This was firstly reflected by the barking of the dogs. Three of them ran towards me as I was getting closer and closer to the building. Though I’ve never owned any, I am naturally good friends with dogs. I understood their effort to warn me not to do any harm to the Thousand (Sewu) Doors (Lawang). I played Dr. Dolittle and convinced them that I only wanted to take pictures without flash. BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

45

PHOTO BY ERIK WIJAYA

The corridors and centercourt of the Lawang Sewu. A walk through the sad complex will change your life.

“I took a walk around the lawn, in awe of how strong the structure that Dutch architects Professor Jacob F. Klinkhamer and BJ Queendag had set for this masterpiece of theirs.”

The dogs gradually became friendly, then simply followed me around. The front door under the twin Gothic

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

and my BlackBerry was no help in lighting the way. I walked towards a spot that

towers was shut, so I took a stroll along

seemingly had some beautiful light, silently

the outer hallway. High-ceilinged and

hoping that it won’t be Heaven. Not now,

decorated with countless arcs just like the

please.

usual Art Deco construction, the tiles of the

The spot was actually the grand

corridor stood the test of time and tropical

staircase with huge mozaic glass windows,

weather. Dirty laundry was shamelessly

beautifully decorating the main hall. Amidst

hung in the discreet back part of the alley.

the dark, the sun’s rays were filtered through

It finally led me to the interior of what used

the many colors of the window glass,

to be an office of Nederlandsch Indische

creating a breathtaking interior view. I took

Spoorweg Maatschappij – the Dutch

the first step to climb upwards, and that’s

railway company in the colonial era. My

when the dogs barked.

newly-found faithful friends kept on tailing me, giving me some air of protection. It was quite dark, as the morning sun’s

46

storey building. I brought no flashlight,

“Don’t you dare go in there,” my inner Dr. Dolittle interpreted the barking. Too bad, my personality has split into another

rays couldn’t penetrate the walls. My

character, and that’s Dr. Jones looking for

footsteps echoed throughout the three-

some trouble.

Ignoring the dogs, I climbed the stairs

them all “inspirations”. Nothing scares me.

into the middle part where I could take a

I wrote my screenplays in the middle of

look outside through some cracks in the

the night, all by myself. I wrote “there is a

window glass. I saw a view of the huge

whispering voice coming out of the woods”

backyard, possibly where the Five Days

many times, knowing that some sound

War took place in August 14-18, 1945. It

effect will work the magic.

is said that thousands died there. Across

But Lawang Sewu is not a film studio.

from the spot where I stood was the door

There was no hidden Bang & Olufsen

that led downstairs to the underground

speakers. There was no artificial wind

prison, were captives were kept squatting,

blower. Yet, I physically felt a rush of

half drowned until they died. A fifteen

wind inside the building, and heard

minute walk through the sad complex will

some whispers. That was either not an

really change your life.

“inspiration” or it actually got very real.

And at that moment, those spirits knew I was looking at them. I turned around, facing the stairs that would lead me to the second floor. Dark,

Goose-bumped, I quickly took a dozen steps back and was reunited with my “guardians” downstairs, staring at me with the I-told-you-so look in their eyes.

and harrowing, but tempting. I bit the

“You shouldn’t wander here alone!”

forbidden fruit, and took my first step.

This time it was no whisper and not a bark

Here, I have to tell you who I am, really.

either. This time it was a voice coming from an upset middle-aged lady, creeping

movie screenplays, and that means I also

towards me out of the dark corridor. “The

watch thousands of them. The 666-kid

place is not open yet! You should pay some

from The Omen, Sadako from The Ring,

entrance fee! Some maintenance fee! And,

and the she-devil called Kuntilanak – I call

you should write your name in the book!”

PHOTOS BY ERIK WIJAYA

I make some of my fortune writing horror

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

47

JEPARA TEGAL

REMBANG

PEKALONGAN SEMARANG

UNGARAN PURWOKERTO

PURWODADI

TEMANGGUNG SURAKARTA

YOGYAKARTA

CENTRAL JAVA

INDONESIA Renovation is clearly different from conservation, especially when the budget for the first phase is no more than Rp 50 Million.

Oh, it’s the matron of the ghosts.

But now, it’s okay. You can go upstairs.

As she grumbled, I wrote my name on

It’s safe now. Go. Take a look at the attic,

the guest book – a fake one of course, to avoid some future voodoo works! – and

and the rooms.” Somehow her blessings rebooted

slipped her Rp 20,000. She became much

my confidence and stopped that eerie,

friendlier. “People get possessed just by

hair-rising whispering. Somehow the air

wandering around here, you know.

got clear, and I could peacefully wander around the second story. Rooms felt empty and hollow. Even when lit by the sun, some corners still felt disturbing. There was an uncanny feeling that even stopped me from going to the attic, the third floor. With almost every step, I never stopped mentally saying, “Excuse me, I’m just taking some pictures,” to the “inhabitants” of Lawang Sewu. Well, they are either Dutch or Javanese – they both demand some respect and courtesy, especially when they’re a century old. My impromptu visit to Lawang Sewu ended right before the legal tourists started PHOTO BY ERIK WIJAYA

to enter the premise. They had excellent tour guides and flashlights, but I liked mine – three local puppies who bid me farewell. I bid mine to them, and to their real masters. “Please don’t let the irresponsible souls who are not responsible in conserving this mansion of yours rest in peace.” ■ 48

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

49

CAPITALCORNER

Fadil Aziz shares some of the scenes of the elegant world class botanical garden in the town of Bogor, 40 kilometers from Jakarta.

WORLD CLASS BOTANICAL GARDEN

IN JAKARTA’S ‘BACKYARD’

S

ometimes we tend to

ANOTHER WORLD

forget what we already

Through the smooth Jagorawi ride, the

have available just

hubbub of Jakarta gradually fades away

around the corner, even

into the scenic panorama of the Gunung

if it were a diamond

Salak and Gunung Gede Pangrango

jewel. And that is quite

mountain range on clear days. Arriving at

the case with the Bogor Botanical Gardens

the town of Bogor, set at an altitude of 260

(BBG), an elegant world class botanical

meters above sea level, it is not so hard

garden and refreshing park in the midst

to find the nearly two century old gardens.

of the town of Bogor, only 40 kilometers

Several hundred meters to the west of the

from the central capital of Jakarta or an

toll road you will encounter large clumps

approximately 30 minutes drive through

of trees on the left side of the road that

the Jagorawi toll road, the first highway

continuously encircle the presidential

built in the country.

palace, Istana Bogor. You can’t miss it.

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the Amazon with wide leaves. It is said

esculenta) from the island of Batam. Also

traffic-filled town of Bogor behind, the

Entering the gardens and leaving the

that the strength of the leaves could hold

in its collection are the Eucalyptus from

atmosphere changes. Your eyes will ease

a baby aloft and still not break the water’s

Australia and tobacco, vanilla, maize and

to the greenery. Meanwhile your ears

surface. Or have a look at the roots of the

coffee from the Americas, successfully

suddenly become void of the pollution of

emergent tropical rainforest tree species

cultivated from the Laboratorium Treub at

decibels. Calm and cool are the two most

in the Fabaceae family, Koompassia

the BBG. For the oil palms alone, the BBG

apparent senses when entering this realm.

Excelsa, that permeates the soil. Unlike

has claimed that all of the plants in South

other roots, it is shaped vertically thin as a

East Asia have grown from seeds derived

famous English Kew Botanical Garden

The BBG was first designed by a then

wall but stretches widely. Whether it is the

from the living specimens cultivated at

horticulturist, boasting two main patterns:

giant or the most subtle, you will surely be

the BBG (Indonesia and Malaysia are now

gardens with ponds arranged in intervals,

impressed.

producers of around 80% of the world’s

with large wild forest-like clumps of trees.

palm oil). Rubber trees, litchi and quinine

for visitors to take rests or to simply

‘WORLD CLASS’ REPUTATION

admire the view. Walking amongst the

With around 13,697 collections from all

14,000 extensive BBG collections, often

corners of Indonesia and several countries

threaten plants of economical value such

you will find yourself at awe with nature’s

around the world,the gardens also boast

as coffee and sugar cane have also been

creations.

an equally inspiring historical background.

first time world breakthroughs at BBG,

Its reputation as one of the first and oldest

thus the gardens have gained a worldwide

yourself walking amidst the large and

botanical gardens in Asia makes the BBG

reputation in terms of botanical research.

towering trees. You would easily feel

among the most important gardens in

Indonesia holds pride in them.

minute compared to the trees. Your

the world. Plants successfully cultivated

head would tilt straight up to see the top

here include: quinine (Chinciona sp) with

figures. A number of world famous

of the trees, and your arms would not

its origins from Peru that make up most

researchers indeed pay frequent visits

be able to wrap around the enormous

of the ingredients for the alleviation of

to these gardens that function in ex situ

trunks. On other occasions you might find

malaria (1852), the oil palm or kelapa

conservation, research and recreation.

yourself looking straight down admiring

sawit (Elaeis guineensis) from West Africa

Among the big names include Sir Thomas

the Victoria Amazonia, a water lily from

(1848), cassava or ubi kayu (Manihot

Stamford Raffles (also known as the

Here and there, benches are provided

A simple example; suddenly you find

are several other species that were for the first time introduced through the BBG. Basic research on diseases that

BBG also has its share of notable

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51

Spending a whole day or just a couple of hours or even a few days is a breeze at the 85-hectare gardens. Best time to visit is in the mornings when dew still rests on leaves, and the air is still fresh with the aroma of damp soil and grass.

founder of Singapore), who wrote down

the embryo of the BBG itself. The BBG

encounter the Lady Raffles Memorial that

his contribution here. This British Governor

library (1842) marked the advent of the

commemorates Sir Thomas Stamford

in Java, who had great interest in botany,

bibliographical history in Indonesia with

Raffles’ wife who died in the Dutch East

sent W. Kent and James Hooper, the Kew

its initial collection of only 25 books. The

Indies. Straight north there is the Danau

horticulturists, to arrange the BBG that led

BBG even contributed to the world of arts!

Gunting Lake, the largest at the BBG,

to its current formation (the ‘stink bloom’ or

Many are unaware that Raden Saleh, the

that connects to the backyard of the

the world’s largest flower, bunga bangkai.

country’s own painting maestro, started his

Istana Bogor presidential palace. Several

Rafflesia was “found” during his governing

livelihood at the BBG as a botanical and

benches under large trees provide an

times in Bengkulu, or ‘Bencoolen’).

insect anatomy illustrator before getting a

ideal place to take in the serene and fresh

scholarship to study art in the Netherlands.

mornings. In the middle of the lake there is

It is even regarded as the birthplace of scientific research in Indonesia. It was here

a small island that has become the habitat

Herbarium Bogoriense (1844), Cibodas

WORLD’S GREAT BIOLOGICAL TREASURE TROVES

Botanical Gardens (1860), Laboratorium

Spending a whole day or just a couple of

oldest tree that shares the same age as

Treub (1884), the Zoological Museum and

hours or even a few days is a breeze at

the gardens, nearly two centuries old: a

Laboratory (1894), and LIPI, the Indonesian

the 85-hectare gardens. If you enter via

lychee tree (Litchi chinensis sonn).

official scientific research institute that was

the main entrance on the south you will

that several scientific institutes were born, such as the Bibliotheca Bogoriensis (1842),

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of migrating ibis. At the west and east ends are the nests of the nocturnal kalong or fruit bats. Also in the west there is the

On the east of the lake, nearly inside

the ‘forest’, there is the home of one of

for a while at Café de Daunan located

the main highlights of the gardens: the

near Astrid Avenue (named accordingly

Amorphopallus titanum that grows to an

in honor of a Belgian princess who once

average height of twice an adult person.

visited in 1928 on her honeymoon with

This flowering plant with the largest

Prince Leopold; the avenue is adorned by

unbranched inflorescence in the world

black, red and yellow Agathis dammara

is said to bloom only once every 2-3

and Canna hybrid, the colors of the Belgian

years. You must check out this botanical

flag).

superstar at the entrance. Aquatic plants are easily found in each

THE BEST TIME

existing pond or lake. Large tree collections

If you consider avoiding visiting during the

are spread all over. Among the most

rainy season, you should think again. This

interesting are the Koompassia excelsa, not

is due to Bogor, being nicknamed “Kota

far east from the main entrance, and the

Hujan” or the Rainy Town. It is showered

forests border with the Istana Bogor across

upon 300 days in a year! The best time to

from the Danau Gunting includes a famous

visit is surely in the mornings when dew

twin tree that sandwiches a bench (wood

still rest on leaves, when frogs still can be

plants collection area / Dipterocarpoceae).

found sitting on nymphea and the air is

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION • There are “Four Guided Walks of Bogor Botanical Gardens” to aide visitors to explore. • “Seri Koleksi” or Collection Series is the published botanical journal detailing the collections of plants in the garden, mostly in Bahasa Indonesia. • Guided Tours are available at the main entrance south of the gardens. Pak Ondidi is one of the garden’s knowledgeable senior guides, who is also fluent in several languages. • Bogor’s sister garden, Bali’s own botanical garden, is the Kebun Raya Ekakarya in Bedugul.

Not far from there is a hanging bridge that is also frequented by visitors. Near the bridge is the Orchid Glass House, a relatively new facility that contains approximately 200 – 300 species of Indonesian orchids (around 10% of the total 3,000 species found all over Indonesia). Not all collections are open to the public, but nevertheless the ones available are amply satisfying. Fruit plants, creeping plants, palms, ferns, evergreens, bamboo and cycads are the other collections that can be seen. Unfortunately in 2006 a large storm swept over and tumbled many of the precious collections, among them a 127-year-old cinnamon tree, an 83-year-old pouteria firma, and a 100year-old parinari excelse sabine from Africa. Several BBG contacts stated that it would possibly require another African expedition to collect the specimen. Fortunately you can still see the

still fresh with the aroma of damp soil and

never-ending exploration. Several hotels

Laboratorium Treub that has produced

grass. Past midday you must be ready to

around BBG can become bases to explore

various high achievements in the world’s

face an occasional drizzle. If you can, avoid

the gardens as well as the town of Bogor

botanical history. Also the Conservation

the weekends (when the crowds make

itself, of course. On a following day you

Museum and Seed Museum boast

most use of their time). On weekdays you

might come across the Victoria Amazonia,

deferential collections, from the tiniest

will find the vast gardens all to yourself.

which on the previous day was white but

seeds to specimens the size of a soccer ball, and ‘flying’ seeds.

The many things at the BBG, the

has now astonishingly turned red! ■

garden itself, the greens, the large, odd

Overwhelmed by the exploration of

and old trees, seeds, ponds, lakes and

the gardens, you can opt for lunch or rest

even streams will make for a seemingly

■ Bogor Botanical Gardens (0251) 322-187, 311-362, 322-220 BALI&BEYOND

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53

BEYONDUPDATES ROTE OPEN 2009 TRIUMPHS In a very closely contested 30 minute final at scenic Bo’a Beach on the East Indonesian island of Rote, Garut Widiarta narrowly defeated Marlon Gerber to bring home 20 million Rupiah (USD 2,000) and 3,500 points in the inaugural Rote Open 2009 presented by the Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship Tour. The event saw 90 national and international surfers competing in four divisions; Open Pro, Masters, Women’s, and Local. At the closing ceremony the Governor of Rote, Leonardus Hanning, expressed his appreciation to all for producing such an excellent event, and committed to having Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship Tour back next year and as long as he is in office. www.isctour.com

DRAWINGS OF THREATENED BEAUTY An exhibition of drawings of Indonesian wildlife species, accompanied by continuous screenings of environmental themed movies, is held through October 3 at Erasmus Huis, the Cultural Centre of the Netherlands Embassy in Jakarta. This year Charles Darwin would have turned 200 years old, and his book the “The Origin of Species” was published 150 years ago, links Indonesia which was on the brink to be further discovered, to the world and our nature today. Erasmus Huis, Jl. H.R Rasuna Said Kav. S-3, Kuningan, Jakarta, (021) 524-1069

GALLERY LINEUP The National Gallery holds two exhibition this month. Common Sense on October 16-30 and a solo exhibition of Mella Jaarsma from October 27 - November 8. Common Sense is an exhibition of 40 Indonesian painters. The exhibition shows the relation between the expression of fine art and culture as a manifestaition of people’s attuitude and self consciousness. Mella Jaarsma’s solo exhibition is a cooperation between Galeri Nasional and Cemeti Art House in Yogyakarta. Galeri Nasional Indonesia, Jl. Medan Merdeka Timur No. 14, Jakarta, (021) 348-339-55, www.galeri-nasional.or.id

THAT JAZZY EAST The Ambon Jazz Plus has been scheduled for October 9-11. Several months ago the jazz event was announced for the town of Ambon inviting a number of performers from the country and abroad. Initially set for September, but due to concern for respecting the fasting month of Ramadhan and upholding a century old tradition practiced by the Muslim and Christian communities in Ambon known as Pela Gendong, the jazz festival agenda shifted to October 9-11. According to the Ambon Jazz Plus Festival listings, the festival not only features jazz with the likes of Bubi Chen & Friends but also hints of many other performers outside the genre, such as R&B, Hip-hop, Soul and Gospel. International performers slated to perform include Wilkins Ramirez (Puerto Rico) and Michael Sembello (USA). www.ambonjazzplus.com 54

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BEYONDUPDATES STUNNING FOLDS ‘N CREASES The Japan Foundation in collaboration with KOWANI, the Nippon Origami Association and CPI hold an origami exhibition and workshop on October 3 and 4. The event takes place at the Atrium Senayan City on Jl. Asia Afrika No.19, Jakarta. This is a free exhibition open to the public, showcasing the various origami creations from Japanese experts. 15 Japanese origami experts come to share their knowledge and show their abilities in creating the Japanese legacy in paper craft through a series of workshops. Participation fee for workshops are only Rp 20,000. The Japan Foundation, Jl. Jend. Sudirman kav.61-62, South Jakarta; www.jpf.or.id

CELLULAR SATISFACTIONS

TO FULL EFFECTS The Japan Foundation holds a seminar on visual effects at Serambi Salihara in Jakarta on October 7, from 2 pm to 4 pm. Meet Issei Oda, a successful Japanese filmmaker who is also a special effects (VFX) supervisor and Harris Reggy, an Indonesian designer and animator largely involved in VFX. Here, Oda will share his knowledge of the most current developments in techniques and technology of VFX and various tendencies from the latest events in the Japanese film industry. In the seminar Oda and Harris will also share their experiences in motion graphics and television. Serambi Salihara, South Jakarta, (021) 520-1266

Coinciding with National Customer’s Day, the Indonesian Customer Satisfaction Award (ICSA) 2009 was held by national publication SWA Sembada together with Frontier independent research institution entering its 11th year in September, which has become a barometer for customer product and services satisfaction in Indonesia. This year’s surveys were carried out in various categories involving 1,600 respondents in Medan, Jakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Surabaya, and Makassar. National cellular operator Telkomsel maintained top level as the highest customer satisfactory achieving company, taking 3 awards for its simcard products, namely simPATI (Prepaid) and kartuHALO (Post-paid) for 10 years consecutively. Meanwhile, newcomer Bakrie Telecom (BTEL) achieved an ICSA 2009 award for its Esia products in the Prepaid and Post-paid FWA simcard categories. Bakrie Telecom also gained 4 awards in the 5th National Customer Service Championship side event also held by Frontier. www.telkomsel.com www.bakrietelecom.com

ILLUMINATION MUM (Manusia untuk Masyarakat or ‘People for the Community’) Bali Foundation launched its “Care for Kids Sumba Water Project” on September 15 at the The Villas Hotel & Spa. Present was Richard Flax (foundation chairman), Michael Klim (Olympic champion swimmer) and Simone Buchanan (actress and patron of the Jodie’Shea orphanage). Care for Kids Sumba Water Project is a well-building and fruit and vegetable garden project in the village of Tanarara in Lewa, East Sumba. Virtually all the diggers have children at the orphanage in Denpasar so the parents are able to benefit from this project. www.careforkidsbali.com 56

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COMMUNITYCALENDAR

SUKA-DUKA The 5th Ubud Writers and Readers Festival will be held from October 7 to 11. The 2009 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival boasts Suka Duka as its theme this year: loosely translated as ‘Compassion and Solidarity’. Some of the finest writers from 23 countries will converge to discuss the great themes of our time: religion, identity, the legacy of colonial brutality and the postcolonial voice, human rights, race and identity, exile, gender, censorship, literary expression and the state. www.ubudwritersfestival.com

INDONESIAN TREASURES The Group of Photographic Artists (GPA) will exhibit about 123 photos in an exhibition called “The Treasures of Indonesia” from October 24 to November 1 at Ramayana Hotel, Kuta. This program celebrates the 1st anniversary of GPA, and will also feature a photo hunting session from October 24 to 26. The goal of this exhibition is to show and share their artworks with people (especially artists and photographers) from all around the world in the most exotic travelling destination in the world. For further information, contact Budi Widjaja, 081-700-729-99.

TO THE SCREENS This year Balinale 2009 plans to screen more than 50 feature films, documentaries, short and classic movies. This year’s program once again includes a film workshop for teenagers in conjunction with the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival on October 7, through the Young Indonesian Film Circle Workshop. Balinale 2009 Festival Headquarters, (0361) 270-908; www.balinale.com

FIESTA 2009 Nusa Dua Fiesta 2009 takes place at the Peninsula Island in Nusa Dua from October 2-6. Nusa Dua Fiesta 2009 aims to promote the area, the island and the whole archipelago. This year’s fiesta takes on the theme Segara Lelanguan that tells the story of environmental conservation especially the ocean. The 5-day agenda is filled with highlights from culture, music, sport and competitions, and various exhibitions.

MIRRORING REALITY Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of works by artist Ida Bagus Putu Gede Sutama called FLOTSAM and JETSAM through November 2. The sculpture of the Balinese artist mirrors the reality of his home near Sanur Beach. One of the most picturesque sights is that of the colorful jukung - triangular sailed outrigger dug-out canoes - that line the beach. Carved in the shape of mythological elephant fish, the same sea, reef and sand imagination that gave birth to these is the source of Sutama’s inspiration. Ganesha Gallery, (0361) 701-010

ENTER THE GARDEN Following his last solo exhibition in Jakarta in 2004, Pande Ketut Taman returns to display his newest works at Komaneka Fine Art Gallery, Ubud. His current exhibition marks a further milestone for Taman and his understanding of ‘clear water philosophy’, where the color spectrum is the amalgamation of the various colors merging as one. The solo exhibition continues through October 25, and the gallery opens everyday from 8 am to 8 pm. Komaneka Fine Art Gallery, Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, (0361) 976-090 58

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MEANWHILE... THIS MONTH TWINS, DIFFERENT MOTHERS Gaya Fusion hosts a joint exhibition entitled “Twin Sons of Different Mothers” through October 6-30, featuring the works of Ida Bagus Indra and John O’Sullivan. The concept evolved over time rather than on a single occasion. Two souls connected for over six years this time around; attracted in a desire to express and create a mixed medium offering of our past, present and future. One soul from Bali of the Brahman caste and the other a Celtic spirit traveling the world in search of hiding relatives; the ultimate reconnection of souls in unison. Gaya Fusion, Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud (0361) 979-252; www.gayafusion.com.

RUN FOR ANOTHER’S LIFE Hard Rock’n Run - The 9th Chapter kicks off October 4. The Charity Run starts at 7.30 am with registrations open at 6.30 am. Individual participation fee of Rp. 85,000 includes a T-Shirt and refreshments. This year’s run once again supports cleft palate surgery for children in Bali, and proceeds go to assist the Rumah Senyum ‘Smile House’. (0361) 761-869

IMAGEMAKERS OF THE FUTURE Alila Living Gallery presents Imagemakers of the Future, A New Generation of Indonesian Photographers Emerges, through November. This BLIPfest pre-event is held in conjunction with Alila Ubud, showcasing the works of emerging young Indonesian photographers who are in the first years of their careers. BLIPfest (Bali Photography Festival) is a major international photography event hosting an array of exhibitions, workshops and seminars in Bali, Indonesia. A first for Bali, BLIPfest will take place during the last week of September into the first week of October, 2010. The events of BLIPfest 2010 will be spread over venues around Denpasar, Kuta, Nusa Dua and Ubud. Alila Ubud (0361) 975-963 www.alilahotels.com

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October 1 ‘Hari Kesaktian Pancasila’. National observance International Day of Older Persons. International observance recognized by the UN World Vegetarian Day. International observance October 2 International Day of NonViolence. International observance recognized by the UN. Observance on Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday October 3 Purnama Sasih Kapat. The fourth full moon. Balinese Hindu observance. World Smile Day. International observance October 4 World Animal Day. International observance October 5 Indonesian National Armed Forces Day. National observance World Habitat Day (first Monday of October). International observance recognized by the UN World Teacher’s Day. International observance October 6 World Hospice and Palliative Day. International observance October 7 International Day of Natural Disaster Reduction (second day of October). International observance recognized by the UN. October 8 Sugian Jawa. Balinese Hindu observance. World Humanitarian Action Day. International observance October 9 Sugian Bali. Balinese Hindu observance. World Post Day. International observance recognized by the UN. October 10 World Mental Health Day. International observance recognized by the UN.

October 14 Galungan Day. Day symbolizing the triumph of Dharma (good) over Adharma (evil). The peak of the Galungan celebrations, commencing with Sugian Jawa and ending on Kuningan Day. Balinese Hindu observance. World Standards Day. International observance October 15 Manis Galungan Day. Balinese Hindu observance. Animal Rights Day. National observance International Day of Rural Women. International observance recognized by the UN. October 16 Indonesian Parliament Day. National observance World Food Day. International observance recognized by the UN. October 17 International Day for the Eradication of Poverty. International observance recognized by the UN. October 18 Tilem Sasih Kapat. The fourth New Moon. Balinese Hindu observance. October 23 Penampahan Kuningan. Balinese Hindu observance. October 24 Kuningan Day. Balinese Hindu observance National Doctor Day. National observance United Nations Day. International observance recognized by the UN. World Development Information Day. International observance recognized by the UN. October 27 National Aviation Day. National observance National Electricity Day. National observance National Blogger’s Day. National observance

World Against Death Penalty. International observance recognized by the WDACP

October 28 Youth Pledge Day. National observance

October 12 Penyajan Galungan Day. Balinese Hindu observance.

October 29 Indonesian Civil Servant Corps (KORPRI). National observance

October 13 Penampahan Galungan Day. Balinese Hindu observance.

October 30 Finance Day. National observance

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HOTELHIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud. CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Telp: (0361) 283286; Fax.(0361)283017 Email: [email protected]; Website: www.mentarisanur.com

HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach. CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax. (0361) 750-792 E-mail: [email protected]; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com

HIGHLIGHTS: Pioneering three in one concept, hotel, suites and villas located in the heart of hippest Seminyak Area. Famous area for clubs, boutiques and restaurants. Walking distance to beaches. With perfect concept “Naturally Elegant” post Perfect palace for honeymooners, party goers and fashionista. FACILITIES: 96 hotel rooms, 60 spacious suites, 7 villas with private pool in each, function and meeting rooms, Three Main swimming pools, Atma Spa, SABEEN Healthy Restaurant, Gym, Library, Tirta Pool bar, butler services, Limousine service, LCD TV’s, Broadband Internet connection. Honeymoon package, Meeting package, Bed and breakfast package and Photo-shoot wedding Package. LOCATION: 15 Minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, walking distance to beaches, Shopping area, and Boutiques. CONTACTS: The Haven Hotel, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 – Bali, ph : 0361-738001 The Haven Suites & Villas, Gg. Raja, Jalan Double Six – Seminyak - Bali, Ph: 0361-738001 Fax : 0361-738002 Sales : 0361-738008 E-mail: [email protected]; Website: www.thehavenbali.com

HIGHLIGHTS: Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock! FACILITIES: Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles. LOCATION: Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury. CONTACTS: Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta. Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: [email protected]; Website: www.hardrockhotels.net

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SEE&SEEN z

ON LEBARAN In anticipation of an increase in usage traffic during the Lebaran holidays, Telkomsel Regional Bali Nusra increased its network capacity throughout its 1500 BTS in both 2G and 3G. Telkomsel has also increased its capacity to handle 80,000 SMSs per second. Through its TELKOMSELsiaga 2009 holiday promotional campaign, the Telkomsel Denpasar Branch sent off the brotherhood and community from Tegal, Central Java, in Bali to their hometown for the Idul Fitri holidays, from the front of the GraPARI headquarters in Denpasar. www.telkomsel.com

PURIFIED ‘N BLESSED The Haven recently held its Melaspas blessing ceremony in early September. It was also part of an opening ritual for the completion of the construction of the hotel’s “three in one concept” through its suites, hotel, and villas. The purification rituals took place prior to its grand opening due this month. The Melaspas was led by a Hindu high priest and included various ritual dance performances and a Wayang Kulit shadow play. The Haven Seminyak, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 Kuta (0361) 738 001, www.thehavenbali.com

CLEVER MOVE Smart Telecom, an Indonesian cellular mobile company, launched its internet service at Hard Rock Cafe Bali in September, incorporating EVDO Rev. A technology with a maximum speed of 3.1Mbps for downloads and 1.8Mbps for uploads, it provides some product alternatives such as netbooks, USB modems, and wireless modem routers. www.smart-telecom.co.id

SUNSET GATHERING Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence recently held a media gathering and soft launch for the newest hotel on Jalan Wana Segara at the southern end of Kuta. The hotel features a total of 209 rooms on 5 floors, each with full amenities and a range of F&B outlets including the Sugar & Spice coffee shop, lobby lounge, Lighthouse rooftop restaurant and a Tropical Bliss pool bar. The event also saw site inspections and a meet-and-greet with the staff and Aston corporate representatives. Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence, Jalan Wana Segara, Kuta (0361) 754-999; www.astonkuta.com

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A MoU signing ceremony at the Ramada Benoa Hotel celebrated the successful ‘tsunami ready’ preparation of the Tanjung Benoa sub district on September 10. The initiative empowered the village of Tanjung Benoa to cooperate with the local hotel industry to jointly prepare for the event of a tsunami. Hotels and villages agreed on an evacuation trigger, evacuation procedures and codes of conduct. Cooperation partners are BHA, Kelurahan Tanjung Benoa, GTZ-GITEWS, CIM and BUDPAR. Bali Hotels Association (BHA) Secretariat, (0361) 227-600

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SEE&SEEN

AGREED UPON A contract agreement has been signed between PT. Wolulas Jaya and Bali Villa Properties. With the signing of this contract the companies have trusted Bali Villa Properties, one of Bali’s villa management companies, to manage their The Wolas Villas & Spa that is in plans to launch early next year. The signing was attended by A. A. K. Arimbawa, Gusti Ngurah Jaya Putra, Jenny Tan and Rudy Alinato as the owners of the villas; and Wayan Sumarta, Ketut Sumerta, Ketut Kanten and Monica Taufik from Bali Villa Properties. Bali Villa Properties, Jl. Kunti No. 117X, Seminyak, (0361) 885-3688 www.balivillaproperties.com

HIGH FIVES The Ubud Hotels Association (UHA) in conjunction with its 5th Anniversary conducted a series of programs, which included visits to foundations and orphanages, tree planting and cleaning blitz activities, and participating in the Clean Up the World campaign. The series of programs concluded with a cocktail celebration on the evening of September 8 at The Royal Pita Maha Resort in Ubud. Ubud Hotels Association Secretariat E-mail: [email protected]

NUSA DUA CLEANUP The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, recently supported the Clean up the World global community initiative. A number of employees from various divisions together with department heads and executive committee representatives gathered amongst the hotel community in Bali in September. The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali, (0361) 771-327

THE LAGUNA SAND CASTLE In conjunction with The Sport & Culture Carnival 2009, the Bali Hotels Association recently held a sandcastle competition at the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa. This event was to encourage creativity among members while at the same time promoting team synergy and collaboration. The Laguna was announced as the first winner, followed by Melia Bali Spa Resort and Villas and Padma Bali Hotel. The Laguna won 1st place with a sand sculpture as a symbol of world peace by naming their creation “Peace on Earth”.

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The town of Malang, East Java, saw an annual ritual on September 3 called ‘Cioko’, celebrated by followers of Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism. Ancestral worship as well as humanitarian activity was conducted through donations to the needy. Also an annual highlight was the ‘Gebyar Takjil’ which takes place as people prepare for fast-opening or iftar, where hundreds of students together with side peddlers offer their ware of meals or takjil to passing motorcycle riders and drivers. The highlight resembles a street bazaar during each annual month of Ramadhan and takes place along the 2 kilometer Jalan Soekarno Hatta in Malang. Photos and report by Erik Wijaya

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SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends

OUTSTANDING SKAL WORLD PRESIDENT’S LUNCH AT THE LAGUNA RESORT & SPA IN NUSA DUA Impeccably organised in every detail, this lunch set a new standard for excellence. Slightly Cured Atlantic Salmon with poached scampi, asparagus parfait and frozen lobster bisque followed by Slow Roasted Victorian Beef Striploin with braised oxtail tortellini, truffled celeriac puree and Beaujolais wine reduction. The stunning dessert buffet was a crowning splendour. The planning, attention to detail, reception, thoughtfulness and performance were to the highest standards…even beyond those which we have come to expect from The Laguna. UPCOMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 160 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar are: November 6 – Hu’u Bar/Nutmegs Restaurant – Petitenget December 12 – Annual Festive Season Ball – Grand Hyatt – Nusa Dua January 8 – Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort – Nusa Dua February 5 – Sanur Paradise Plaza – Sanu ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the World’s largest travel and tourism organization with over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries. Members are tourism industry management and professionals providing accommodation, transportation, tours, travel, marine and cruise tourism, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas and travel media. Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth

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For information on joining Skal and participation lunches and events contact Gede Juwena at the Skal Bali secretariat on (0361) 784 0212 or at [email protected]

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CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS

ACCOMMODATION

during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s

VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3

/ quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different

villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete,

locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be

shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian,

arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.

Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510

BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766;

E-mail: [email protected]; www.dianagrouphotel.com

Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com

ACTION & ATTRACTION

INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the

NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from

beauty of walking among hundreds of

anywhere of the world. Chose from 1012 titles of 79 countries, daily, weekly or

beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia,

as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your preferred

Ginger and other interesting plants. A

hometown newspaper on the same day of publication to your hotel or

peaceful, natural and safe haven close

residence on Bali. Contact your hotel or villa reception or call or email them for

to the city. Enjoy a drink and find unique

the selection and pricelist 0361 769414 /

souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax: 466-011;

[email protected]

www.baliorchidgardens.com; E-mail: [email protected].

TOURS & TRAVEL ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE

BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours

WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo

both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive.

& Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750

Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all

971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56,

kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields,

Email: [email protected]

crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views

www.adventureindonesia.com

subscribe NOW! ISLANDS UNDING 0 SURRO ER 18,00 AND OV RADISE PA F C T H E S U N . . . T H E S A N D . . . T H ECSUULR . .ET O HE ULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS T FU.R F... THE THE SUR

YOND BALI &EBEYOND LI & B BA

AND... ... THE S THE SUN

Y 2009 J A N U A R NO. 104 11 VOLUME

FEBRUARY 2009 VOLUME 11 NO. 105

SCENTS MADE S SENSIBLE RANG SIGHT MA

SEWHERE IN THE CITY OF

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GEDO CLASS SUGGESTS THATNG YOU ELSE ; FROM THE CAN SUBSTITUTE THEED COMMON SEMARANG ON THE RUGG A RAN VALENTINE’S ROSES ANDTO SONGO HIGH MOUNT UNGA ED CHOCOLATES WITH SOMETHING N DOTT SLOPES OF ATOW G CHIN MORE SPECIAL SPRAWLIN LES... WITH TEMP

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T YOUR ENGAGING STAR ! RESH , AF UPHILLS T YEAR CITY’S MOS TO THE CAPITAL BALIREME IS NOTDIES JUST ABOUT FIND NDEDBEAUTIFUL RE BEACHES, BEFO RECOMME YOURSELFLOVELY LAKES. REFRESHIT ALSO HAS NEW 2009! A WHOLE STARTING BEDUGUL IS A COMPLETE TOURIST DESTINATION FULL OF ACTIVITIES

TAKE ME TO N CHINATOW BIKING TONDANO LAKE

COMPL IMENT ISSN

ARY

0216-4590

COMPLIMENTARY 9

770216

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www.baliandbeyon

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d.co.id

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

MNS LU OM N E W & N E W S • I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I • C L A LSASSI FSI E NS 1 I FDI ECDOCL U • C JANUARY 2009 OF BALI BALI&BEYOND X • MAP FO INDE EWS • IN NEW & N

Have a copy of Bali & Beyond delivered to your home address monthly. Name: _________________________________________________ Address: _______________________________________________ City: ___________________________________________________ Country: ___________________ Postcode: ___________________ Phone: _________________________________________________ E-mail: _________________________________________________ Payment Method by Transfer Delivery fees: Within Indonesia : Rp. 150.000/year Asia, Australia & Africa : US$ 220/year Europe & America : US$ 240/year Please settle payment to the following account: PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma, (A/C. IDR) 434.01.00210.00.4 CIMB NIAGA - CAB. KUTA GRAHA, KUTA-BALI Fax this form and proof of transfer to (0361) 762-096 Please reconfirm your fax by calling (0361) 764-274 BALI&BEYOND

OCTOBER 2009

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

BALI & BEYOND

INFOINDEX AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369

■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: [email protected] ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: [email protected] ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: [email protected]

■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: [email protected]

■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: [email protected]

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: [email protected]

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: [email protected] www.dfat.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: [email protected] ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: [email protected] ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur

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■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: [email protected] ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: [email protected]

fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

HOSPITAL ■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate. ■ BIMC HOSPITAL: Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the KutaSanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Tel: (0361) 761-263. ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: [email protected] www.kasihibu.co.id

MUSEUMS

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: [email protected]

■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar.

■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: [email protected]

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm.

HEALTH & MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue

■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS ■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings. ■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience. Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.

TOURIST INFORMATION ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.

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